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A HISTORY of the DEVORE TEXTILE 1880 to 1940. a Thesis

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A HISTORY of the DEVORE TEXTILE 1880 to 1940. a Thesis FROM ECONOMY TO EXCLUSIVITY: A HISTORY OF THE DEVORE TEXTILE 1880 TO 1940. A Thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy By ANDREA ROBERTSON Volume 1 2D Design, Faculty of Design Buckinghamshire Chiltems University College BruneI University February, 2005. This copy of the thesis has been supplied on condition that anyone who consults it is understood to recognise that its copyright rests with its author under the terms of the United Kingdom Copyright Acts. No quotation from this thesis and no information derived from it may be published without proper acknowledgement. BRITISH A~V~811 ::a m < ~ o ::a-I c: n- S -I m m C N Abstract This thesis creates a contextual historical analysis of the development of chemical and devore manufactured textiles, relating methods of construction and intended use to existing textile design and social histories. The initial investigation of devore practice, whether used in association with woven, knitted and stitched textiles, includes a comprehensive examination of the historical textile patent record from 1840 to 1940, which formed an extensive part of the historiography. The aim of the research was to establish a credible narrative of woven devore, through its design and its manufacture. The methodology is interdisciplinary. In the course of my research and material evaluation I have considered evidence that is normally considered to be chemical and fibre analysis, design and art history review, dress textile and interior textile analysis, social and economic history and object analysis. This study in particular focuses on the peculiar dichotomy of woven devore: that is its growth as a manufacturing method of affordable textiles for the mass market contrasted with its most common deployment, as an ornate decorative textile. This study also challenges the conventional view that the aforementioned decorative woven devore textiles were developed in response to periods of economic depression. Contents page Abstract List of Contents 11 List of Illustrations iii Acknowledgements ix Authors Declaration x Glossary of Terms Xl Introduction Chapter 1 26 Devore. A new definition. Introduction to Devore. Carbonising and fibre reclamation. Thread and fabric manufacture by carbonisation. Stitched devore: chemical lace and embroideries. Chemical lace and embroidery terminology. Woven fabric and devore terminology. Knitted devore and terminology. Woven devore fabric. Chapter 2 75 The origin of woven devore. Staple yarn and fabric development. Devore and the decoration of woven textiles. The development of velvet and pile fabric devore. Chapter 3 99 A period of transition and design diversity. The colouration and devore of pile fabrics. Paisley devore fabric. Regenerated Cellulose and woven devore fabrics. Chapter 4 119 The influence of the chemist. Silk and wool fibre devore processes. Soda Printing and cellulose fibre devore. Regenerated cellulose devore techniques. Cellulose acetate devore processes. Pile woven devore textiles in The Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, N.Y. Devore textiles in The Tirrochi collection and The Museum of Art at RlSD, Rhode Island, USA. Velvet lames, Tinsel brocades and devore. Chapter 5 201 Economic depression and design innovation. Economy and design innovation. Woven devore in the Early 1930's. Rubber thread and elastic textiles. Conclusion 221 Appendices Appendix 1 226 Appendix 2 234 Appendix 3 235 Appendix 4 238 Appendix 5 244 Index 245 List of references. 251 11 Illustrations (see volume 2) page Introduction Spencer, M. (1993). Velvet, eat your heart out. Vogue. June 1993. p.75. 7 Chapter one 2 Carlos Casanovas Y Amat, Barcelona, Spain. (Application filed August 15, 1 1901, accepted April 21, 1903). Process of Producing Perforated or Open­ work Patterns in Fabrics. US patent 725,823. 3 Vogue Italia. (1997). Advertisement for Sportmax. Vogue Italia. Ottobre, 2 1997. Vol. 566. Vogue Italia. (2002). 'Portrait'. Stagione romantica con rivisitazione di tempi ingenui e hippie. Vogue Italia. Gennaio, 2002. Vol. 617. 4 Croft, C. (2004). From Russia with Cash. Sunday Times Style Magazine. 3 April 18,2004. p.l9. 5 Jacob Steiger. (Application filed 26th September, 1881, accepted 24th March 4 1882). Improvements in the Production of Embroidery. GB patent 4143. 6 Frederick Suter, of Suhr. Assignor to the Wetter Brothers, of St. Gall, 5 Switzerland. (Application filed November 29, 1882 accepted June 26, 1883). Process of Producing Open-Work Fabrics. US patent 280,094. 7 David Wuillemin, Fribourg, Switzerland. (Application filed May 24, 1884 6 accepted April 14, 1885). Lace and the Art of Making the Same. US patent 315,589. 8 The Lace and Embroidery Review. (1912). Periodical Publications. New 7 York: Clifford and Lawton. April 12, 1912. p.33. George F. Owen., Inc. Flounces and Laces in line with the present demand. 9 The Lace and Embroidery Review. (1912). Sontheimer & Stern. Periodical 8 Publications. New York: Clifford and Lawton. Apri112, 1927. p.66. 10 Caspar J. Jenny. St Gall, Switzerland, assignor to Strauss & Co., (Application 9 filed August 3,1891 accepted January 5,1892). Embroidery. US patent 466,566. II Josef Mahler, of Nemecky Brod, Czechoslovakia. Assignor to Fidelity 10 Machine Company, Philadelphia. (Application filed October 10, 1927 accepted June 24, 1930; patented in Czechoslovakia July 1, 1927). Process of Producing Patterns on Plated Knitting and the Corresponding Product. US patent 1,768,125. 12 John L. Meade, Gary Indiana. Assignor to Paramount Textile Machinery Co., 11 Chicago. (Application field February 17, 1941, accepted October 26,1943). Method of making Stockings. US patent 2,332,738. 13 Vogue Paris. (1998/ 1999) L' oeuf. Robe en maille de laine devon!e et resille. 12 Krizia. Vogue Paris. December 1998/ January 1999. No. 793. 14 Madras Muslin, Atelier Martine for Paul Poiret. Grape and vine design, 13 T.613E-1974. Dated 1915-1920. [V &A Department of Furniture, Textiles & Fashion, archive appointment 27 th July, 2004]. Courtesy of The Victoria and Albert Museum. London. iii page 15 Madras Muslin, Atelier Martine for Paul Poiret. La Tulipe (T.613F), and 14 Feuilles de Chene (oak leaves). T.613B. Dated 1915-1920.V &A Department of Furniture, Textiles & Fashion. Chapter Two 16 Emile Maertens, Oswego falls, New York. (Patent accepted AD 1885, 20th 15 January. Complete Specification). Clark's Improvements in Producing Textile Fabrics. BP N° 821 17 With permission from Dover Publications Inc. (Bloomingdale Brothers). 16 (1988). Bloomingdale's Illustrated 1886 Catalogue. New York: Dover Publications Inc. p.53, 82. 18 Caroline Beatrice Cameron. (Application filed November 1, 1899 accepted 17 April 17, 1900). Ornamenting Velvet. US patent 647,474. Chapter Three 19 Otto Timme, of New York. N.Y. (Application filed December 4,1901 18 accepted July 29, 1902). Method of Producing Figured Pile Fabric. US patent 705,977. 20 Charles William Fulton. Paisley, Scotland. (Application filed August 7,1905, 19 accepted March 3, 1908). Production of Patterns, Designs, or other Similar Markings in Fabrics. US patent 880,983. Chapter Four 21 Silk velvet on a chiffon ground. (#1268). $595.00 20 [online] Available from http://www.vintagetextile.com. [Accessed 4th April 2004]. With permission from www.vintagetextile.com. 22 Cut Velvet Tunic. c. 1923. (#1603). 21 [online] Available from http://www.vinatgetextile.comlnewpage31O.html [Accessed 4th April, 2004]. With permission from www.vintagetextile.com. 23 Prototype Vintage. (2003). 1637-Luxurious 1920's Cut Silk Velvet Deco 22 Dress. Code1637 [online] Available from http://pages.prototypevintage.coml6695IPictpage/ 1921 066298.html [Accessed 28th July 2003]. With permission www.prototypevintage.com. Current val ue $175.00. 24 Heberlein and Company. (1960). Heberlein 1835 to 1960. Watwill, Schweiz: 23 Heberlein and Company. p.37. 25 Weldon's Ladies' Journal. (December 1926). With the Season's Greetings 24 and All Good Wishes. Dress No. 76213. Weldon's Ltd. London. 26 Weldon's Ladies Journal. (January 1926). Styles that lend slender grace to 25 maturity. Dress No. 74413. p.25. 27 Cotton polyester devore print. Gemma Blastock. 2003. BCUC Graduate 2004. 26 With permission. Authors own image. IV page 28 Blumenthal and Creasey patent image. Sidney Blumenthal and Co., Inc. 27 New York, assignees of Samuel Eliot, Massachusetts, Improvement in Pile Fabrics to Simulate Fur Blankets and in the Method of Producing the Same, (BP patent 238,139, application date February II, 1925, accepted August 13, 1925, US August 27, 1924). 29 American Album of Fur Novelties. (June 1924). Krukal and Krukal: 28 youthful and snappy muskrat jacket. p.ll. 30-32 With kind permission from Liberty archive. Digital images by Anna Buruma. Liberty archivest Liberty of London archive. With thanks to Buruma, A. (2003) [Interview and archive appointment with Anna Buruma, 28 th May, 2003]. 30 G12108-11O Multi coloured floral velvet design. 29 31 G 12173 White high lustre pile fabric with floral design. 30 32 G 12237-38 Black velvet abstract floral designs. 31 33 Length with Ovals, ca. 1926. 'Probably an American maker.' Silk; Plain 32 weave; chemical burn out. Gift ofL.J. Cella III. 1991.123.45. A&L Tirocchi Dressmakers Project. [online] Available from http://www.tirocchi.stg.brown.edulexhibitionifashionideco03.html[ Accessed: 17 July, 2003]. 34 Vogue NY. (1927). The New Paris fabrics Have Gleaming Beauty. Vogue. 33 September I 1927. p.l14. 35 Vogue. NY. (1927). Celanese the Versatile. Vogue. November 1, 1927. 34 between page 32 and 33. 36 With permission from www.vintagetextile.com (2004) [online] 35 Mariano Fortunyl Venise Persian styled patterned velvet coat. Available from http://www.vintagetextile.comlnew_page_207.htm. [Accessed: 4 April, 2004]. 37 Bianchini Ferier sample book. Lyons. (1920-1921). Sample N2 15205. Ruban 36 Satin velour. 'Vendu': 30/5. 38 Peter Robinson fabric no 691. Vogue UK. (1927). Advertisement for Peter 37 Robinson, silk and woollen fabrics. Vogue. October 19, 1927. With reference to velvet brocade on georgette. p.ll. 39 Liberty of London archive. With thanks to Buruma A. (2003) [Archive 38 review with Anna Buruma, 28 May, 2003].
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