Evaluation of Moisture Management Properties of Plated Interlock, Mini Flat Back Rib and Flat Back Rib Structures

T. Sathish Kumar1* M. Ramesh Kumar1** Evaluation of Moisture Management B. Senthil Kumar2 Properties of Plated Interlock, Mini Flat Back Rib and Flat Back Rib Structures DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0014.6084

1 Sona College of Technology, Abstract Department of Fashion Technology, Moisture management is a very fundamental criterion for any type of fabric. Hence, in this Salem – 636 005, Tamilnadu, India, study three different knits viz plated interlock, mini flat back rib and flat back rib fabric * e-mail: [email protected], structures with 100% eri silk (top), 100% bamboo (bottom) and 100% tencel (bottom) with ** e-mail: [email protected] the combination of two different yarn counts were used. The yield was tested for moisture 2 Centre for Apparel Research and Education, management properties. It was identified that the bi-layer eri silk (14.3 tex) combined with NIFT TEA Knitwear Fashion Institute, bamboo (14.8 tex) and tencel (14.8 tex) plated interlock, mini flat back rib and flat back rib Tirupur – 641 606, Tamilnadu, India, knit structure fabrics were excellent. Due to the high level of comfort and breathable nature, e-mail: [email protected] eri silk with bamboo and tencel fabrics are recommended for performance based garments. Key words: eri silk, flat back rib, moisture management, mini flat back rib, plated interlock.

Introduction er drying rate. Tri layer fabrics made of a bamboo/micro polyester/lyocell combi- Thermo-physiological comfort deter- nation had high water absorption [4]. In mines the breathability and moisture the moisture management characteristics management of fabric, consisting in heat of knitted casein fabrics, the water vapour and moisture transport through it. Mois- permeability values were observed to be ture can be in the form of vapour and same in cotton and casein, but based on liquid. Clothing provides a microclimate the maximum wetting radius and one way between the body and the external envi- transport values, cotton fabric was found ronment and acts as a barrier for heat and to be better and more standard than casein vapour transfer between the skin and the fabric [5]. The comfort and moisture man- environment. The moisture management agement properties of polyester/milkweed property is a necessary facet of any cloth blended plated knitted fabrics for active for attire that deals with vesture com- wear applications were analysed. The re- fort. Moisture management is the con- sults showed that plated fabric made from trolled movement of liquid (perspiration) 40% milkweed/polyester is an efficient from the skin surface to the environment moisture management fabric when used through the fabric [1]. The human body in both of the ways tested when compared perspires in two forms: insensible (in to other fabrics [6]. The moisture manage- vapour form) and sensible perspiration ment properties of bamboo/viscose/tencel (in liquid form). To be in a comfortable single jersey knitted fabrics were studied. state, clothing should allow both types of It was found that an increase in the tencel perspiration to transmit from the skin to content brought a decrease in the wetting the outer surface [2]. The air permeability time, absorption rate, spreading speed, and moisture management properties of and overall moisture management. But is commercial single jersey and rib knitted was also found that there was an increase fabrics were studied. The results indicat- in the maximum wetted radius [7]. The ef- ed that commercial knitted fabric’s air fect of blend proportion on the moisture permeability increased at a rate dispro- management characteristics of bamboo/ portionate to the mass of fabric. The air cotton knitted fabrics was taken up for permeability of rib fabrics was higher research. The results described that upon compared to jersey fabrics. Also, when an increase in the bamboo content, there the mass of these fabrics increased, the was a decrease in the wetting time, wet- moisture management properties of 30/1 ted radius, spreading speed and OMMC single jersey and rib fabrics decreased but an increase in the absorption rate [8]. [3]. A study was taken up on the mois- An investigation on the effect of filament ture and thermal management properties fineness on the comfort characteristics of woven and knitted tri layer fabrics. It of the moisture management of finished was found that fabrics manufactured from polyester knitted fabrics was conducted. bamboo charcoal/micro polyester/lyocell The tests indicated that the fabrics con- possessed high air permeability, water va- taining 108 filaments in yarn gives better pour permeability, thermal conductivity wetting, higher wicking and optimum and wicking tendency, as well as a fast- moisture vapour transmission [9].

66 Sathish Kumar T, Ramesh Kumar M, Senthil Kumar B. Evaluation of Moisture Management Properties of Plated Interlock, Mini Flat Back Rib and Flat Back Rib Structures. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2021; 29, 2(146): 66-74. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0014.6084 Any physical activity will produce differ- that the wetting time increased; however, improvement in fabric moisture manage- ent levels of the need to release excessive a decrease in the maximum wetted radi- ment properties [31]. heat and maintain a stable body temper- us, rate of absorption, spreading speed, ature. Warp knitted raschel material is and overall moisture management capac- Among the four forms of silk obtainable effective in summer sportswear owing to ity was observed as the cover factor of in India, eri silk, being of discontinuous its good air porosity, low thermal and tide the fabric increased [22]. filaments, possesses some distinctive vapour resistance, and smart moisture properties [32]. Increasing awareness management properties [10]. Textured The geometric properties of bi-layer concerning eco-friendly property practic- polyester yarn knitted materials measure knitted materials primarily have an effect es and organic textile products affects the higher air permeability properties than on their moisture management proper- choice of fibres. Eri silk is a fibre that is polyester knitted materials of same yarn ties, with fibres having a secondary in- gaining importance and is a favourite of count and knit structure [11]. The con- fluence [23]. Double knit structures with designers and animal activists [33] due to struction, thickness, and material affect completely different inlay tuck points environmental considerations. However, heat transfer between the human body greatly influence the physical, moisture Eri, the main non-mulberry tamed assort- and the environment [12]. The thermal management and thermal transmission ment of silk, is not reelable and is utilised comfort property of a clothing system properties, as distinct from inlay materi- for the creation of spun yarn. It is nearly during dynamic conditions should be as- als [24]. Tencel is used as an outer layer as fine as mulberry silk and considerably sessed based on moisture vapour pressure to make the sportsman or woman feel milder. It has remarkable warm proper- alteration within the clothing, the surface comfortable through quick evaporation ties. Moreover, Eri fibre can enhance ex- temperature of the clothing, and on the and drying. Under these circumstances, cellent imported wool to obtain different heat loss from the body [13]. The gar- in addition to low thermal resistance and sorts of woven and knitted items [34]. ment should have the ability to release excessive air permeability, fabrics have Viscose rayon × eri silk of 2/40s (VRE1) the moisture vapour held in the microcli- to provide a better water vapour trans- materials have the highest endurance mate to the atmosphere so as to reduce fer, wicking ability and rapid drying rate both in the warp and weft directions. the dampness at the skin [14]. Water va- [25]. Since double layer knitted fabrics Viscose × eri silk of 2/40s (VRE1) un- pour permeability plays a very important made of various combinations have an ef- ion cloth exhibits the highest resistance role when there is only little sweating, fect on fabric production, hence suitable to abrasion. Viscose × eri silk of 2/40s or insensible perspiration, or else very attention needs to be paid while select- (VRE) exhibits the highest worth of the little sweating [15]. During heavy activ- ing combinations for functional active drape coefficient (%). Overall, the- per ity, when liquid perspiration production and sportswear fabric production [26]. formance of viscose × eri silk of 2/40s becomes high, to feel comfortable the The wicking characteristics of bi-layer (VRE1) union cloth gives higher physi- clothing should possess a good liquid cloth with a one tuck purpose shows an cal results [35]. Eri small stuff material transmission property [16]. Wicking is associated increasing trend once the sew has reasonable physical, structural and an important property to uphold a feeling density and thickness decrease. It was luxury properties, confirming the qual- of comfort during sweating conditions. It determined that the wet permeability of ity of eri silk knit materials for primar- applies the capillary theory to rapidly re- a bi-layer knitted structure will increase ily performance- based clothes. Fabrics move sweat and moisture from the skin’s with a rise in the sew density and tight- made from these yarns have a reasona- surface, transport it to the fabric surface, ness. The drying ability of bi-layer cloth ble demand in the international market. and then evaporate it [17]. As regards with a one tuck purpose is primarily in- As a result of eri spun silk fabric being the moisture management properties of fluenced by the thickness and weight. It made by non-violence and being stiffer, double-face fabrics, it was suggested that is the power to transfer perspiration from it has satisfactory wicking, thermal insu- polypropylene (back) and cotton (face) the inner layer of the material to the out- lation and heat properties [36]. Eri silk fabric had better moisture management er layer, and it simply gets evaporated knit has good comfort properties, which properties [18]. The blending of wool fi- and dried [27]. The lower thickness and confirm its quality for lightweight- win bre with polyester and regenerated bam- mass per unit are exhibit higher thermo- ter active applications. It’s expected that boo fibre produced fabrics with better physical properties, air porosity, vapour cloth created from these yarns has high moisture management properties than porosity, wicking, wetness permeability, demand within the international market those without blending [19]. The highest drying rate and moisture management as a result of eri silk fabric being creat- overall moisture management capacity properties. The lower range of tuck sew- ed by non-violent ways (without killing values for polyester fabrics were com- ing shows higher thermal comfort prop- the silk worm) as well as having higher pared to those of cellulose-based fabrics, erties [28]. The moisture management dimensional, thermal and wicking prop- and it was suggested that cotton fabrics property of materials considerably af- erties [37]. Eri/cotton (67:33) blended caused wetness to be felt more than for fected the moisture diffusion and temper- fabrics show the highest crease recov- other fabrics [20]. Fabric tightness had ature distributions within cold protecting ery. Tussar/cotton, muga/cotton and eri/ different effects on various knitting types vesture systems, and influenced the ther- cotton union fabrics are comparable in in terms of moisture management prop- mal and moisture sensations [29]. With physical and comfort properties. Eri silk erties, and the fabrics with a high thick- the Coolmax fibre, the moisture manage- – cotton union fabrics are produced by ness and mass per unit area were found ment properties of spacer materials will an eco-friendly method and are stronger, to be low in moisture management in- be improved, allowing them to be used soft to wear, durable, and good in all sea- dices [21]. In another study regarding in snug-fitting shirts worn under protect- sons. Therefore, eri silk – cotton blended the relationships between cover factors ing vests with improved comfort [30]. fabrics are as suitable for making ap- and moisture management properties Increasing the fabric tightness factor by parel products as union fabrics made of for bamboo-knitted fabrics, it was noted decreasing the stitch length results in an conventional silk – cotton [38]. Eri knit

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2021, Vol. 29, 2(146) 67 conventional silk - cotton [38]. Eri knit normally has smart moisture management properties, ensuring their quality for mostly performance based clothes. It can be discerned that variables like the yarn count, material tightness and knitting structure have a big influence on the wicking and moisture management properties. OMMC indexes of an eri silk knit area unit was found to vary from ‘very good’ to “excellent’, which indicates the quality of eri silk yarn for matching the skin, as well as for active wear applications [39]. Silk is indeed the most ideal fabric to use at home and in the furnishings industry. From ancient to modern times, silk has always been regarded as the most luxurious product, representing the ultimate comfort one can possess in daily life [40]. Eri silk knit wear is the newest trend due to its higher softness and luxury nature compared to other fibres. Various studies depict the moisture management properties of knitted materials. Therefore, this study aimed to seek out the moisture management properties of eri silk with bamboo and eri silk with tencel bi-layer knitted materials.

2. MATERIALS AND FABRIC DEVELOPMENT

Twenty four bi-layer fabrics were prepared using 16.7 tex and 14.3 tex 100% eri silk as well as

19.7 tex and 14.8 tex 100% bamboo and tencel. Table 1 shows the sample codes, fabric structure, needle order, cam order, and technical graph of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics.

Table 1. Sample codes, fabric structure, cam order, and technical graph. Table 1. Sample codes, fabric structure, cam order, and technical graph. normally has smart moisture manage- Sample code Fabric structure Cam order and feeder repeat Technical graph ment properties, ensuring their quality Sample code Fabric structure Cam order and feeder repeat Technical graph for mostly performance based clothes. It S1EB, S2ET,S1EB, S2ET,Plated interlockPlated interlock (F1 F2 (F1F3 F2F4 F3 F5 F4 F6…..Repeat) F5 F6..... Repeat) S3EB, S4ET, (connecting with can be discerned that variables like the S3EB, S4ET, (connecting Dial - Dial – S13EB, S14ET, more tuck points) yarn count, material tightness and knit- S13EB, S15EB, S16ETwith more tuck Cylinder – ting structure have a big influence on the S14ET, points) wicking and moisture management prop- S15EB, S16ET Cylinder- erties. OMMC indexes of an eri silk knit area unit was found to vary from ‘very good’ to “excellent’, which indicates the quality of eri silk yarn for matching the S5EB, S6ET, Mini flat back rib (F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6..... Repeat) S5EB, S6ET, Mini flat back (F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6……Repeat) skin, as well as for active wear applica- S5EB, S6ET,S7EB, S8ET,Mini flat(connecting back with(F1 F2Dial F3 –F4 F5 F6……Repeat) S7EB, S8ET,S14EB, S18ET,rib (connecting partial tuck points)Dial - S7EB, S8ET, rib (connecting Dial - tions [39]. Silk is indeed the most ideal S14EB, S19EB, S20ETwith partial tuck fabric to use at home and in the furnish- S14EB, with partial tuck Cylinder – S18ET, points) ings industry. From ancient to modern S19EB,S18ET, S20ET points) Cylinder - S19EB, S20ET Cylinder- times, silk has always been regarded as the most luxurious product, representing

the ultimate comfort one can possess in daily life [40]. Eri silk knit wear is the S9EB, S10ET, Flat back rib (F1 F2 F3 F4……Repeat) S9EB, S10ET,S9EB, S10ET, Flat backFlat rib back rib (F1 F2(F1 F3 F2 F4……Repeat) F3 F4..... Repeat) newest trend due to its higher softness S11EB, S11EB, S12ET,(no connecting) (no connecting) Dial - Dial – and luxury nature compared to other fi- S11EB, S21EB, S22ET,(no connecting) Dial - S12ET, bres. Various studies depict the moisture S12ET, S23EB, S24ET S21EB, Cylinder – management properties of knitted mate- S21EB, S22ET,S22ET, CylinderCylinder-- rials. Therefore, this study aimed to seek S23EB, S24ET S23EB, S24ET out the moisture management properties of eri silk with bamboo and eri silk with Dial: Dial: Cylinder: Cylinder: tencel bi-layer knitted materials. - Dial tuck stitch - Cylinder tuck stitch Dial:- Dial tuck– Dial stitch tuck stitch - CylinderCylinder: tuck stitch – Cylinder tuck stitch - - K Knitnit stitch stitch -- Cylinder Cylinder knitknit stitch - Dial miss – Knit stitch stitch - Cylinder miss stitch – Cylinder knit stitch - Dial miss– Dial stitch miss stitch - Cylinder miss stitch – Cylinder miss stitch F-FFeeder-Feeder (F1 (F1-Feeder-Feeder 1, 1, F2 F2- -Feeder Feeder 2, 2, F3 F3-- Feeder Feeder 3,3, F4F4-- Feeder 4, F5- Feeder 5,5, F6F6-- FeederFeeder 6) 6) Materials and fabric F-Feeder (F1-Feeder 1, F2- Feeder 2, F3- Feeder 3, F4- Feeder 4, F5- Feeder 5, F6- Feeder 6) development

Twenty four bi-layer fabrics were prepared using 16.7 tex and 14.3 tex 100% InIn this this experimental experimentalTable 2. Sample work, work, codes, bi bi--layerlayer fabric fabricsfabrics structure, werewere fibre,developeddeveloped yarn linearin which density, thethe innerinnerfabric layer layerareal (next (nextdensity toto andthe the thickness. Note: In the fabric sample plan, short codes were used to describe the samples: eri silk as well as 19.7 tex and 14.8 tex skin)skin) was was made E-100%made of of Erieri eri silk silk yarn,yarn yarn, B-100% , whilewhile tt heBamboohe outerouter yarn,layerlayer T-100%was made Tencel up ofyarn. bamboobamboo andand tenceltencel yarns.yarns. 100% bamboo and tencel. Table 1 shows the sample codes, fabric structure, needle Yarn linear Fabric areal S. Sample Fabric Fibre Thickness, order, cam order, and technical graph of InIn other other words, words, Eri Eri silk silk fibre fibre onon thethe top,top, andand bamboobamboo anddensity, tencel texon thethe density,bottombottom .. AllAll samplessamples No code structure 2 mm Top Bottom Top Bottom G/m eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. werewere produced produced1 on onS1EB a a circular circularPlated multi multi interlock--tracktrackEri weftweft Silk knittingknittingBamboo machine16.7 (Keumyong19.7 knitting334knitting machine)machine)1.19 of of 2 S2ET Plated interlock Eri Silk Tencel 16.7 19.7 332 1.26 In this experimental work, bi-layer fab- 34 inch diameter, 82 feeders, 18 gauge and 3840 needles. Plated interlock, mini flat rib and flat 34 inch diameter,3 S3EB 82 feeders,Plated 18 interlock gauge Eriand Silk 3840Bamboo needles.16.7 Plated19.7 interlock, 310mini flat rib1.28 and flat rics were developed in which the inner 4 S4ET Plated interlock Eri Silk Tencel 16.7 19.7 293 1.22 layer (next to the skin) was made of eri back rib knitted fabrics were produced using two different yarn counts and two different loop back rib knitted5 fabricsS5EB Miniwere flat produced back rib Eriusing Silk twoBamboo different16.7 yarn19.7 counts and231 two different1.07 loop silk yarn, while the outer layer was made 6 S6ET Mini flat back rib Eri Silk Tencel 16.7 19.7 228 1.11 up of bamboo and tencel yarns. In other lengthslengths (0.3cm (0.3cm and and 0.4cm). 0.4cm). 7 S7EB Mini flat back rib Eri Silk Bamboo 16.7 19.7 250 1.05 words, eri silk fibre on the top, and bam- 8 S8ET Mini flat back rib Eri Silk Tencel 16.7 19.7 237 1.01 boo and tencel on the bottom. All samples 2.1.2.1. Physical Physical characteri characterissationation of of test test samplessamples 9 S9EB Flat back rib Eri Silk Bamboo 16.7 19.7 239 1.18 were produced on a circular multi-track 10 S10ET Flat back rib Eri Silk Tencel 16.7 19.7 233 1.22 weft knitting machine (Keumyong AllAll the the samples samples were were testedtested inin AmericanAmerican SocietySociety for Testing and MaterialsMaterials D1776D1776 standardstandard 11 S11EB Flat back rib Eri Silk Bamboo 16.7 19.7 245 1.19 knitting machine) of 34 inch diameter, 82 feeders, 18 gauge and 3840 needles. atmosphericatmospheric 12conditions conditionsS12ET of of Flat21 21 ±1°Cback ±1°C rib andand Eri6565 Silk ±2%±2% RH.RH.Tencel Five16.7 readings19.7 were takentaken238 forfor eacheach of 1.21of the the bi bi-- 13 S13EB Plated interlock Eri Silk Bamboo 14.3 14.8 254 0.98 Plated interlock, mini flat rib and flat back rib knitted fabrics were produced layerlayer fabrics fabrics,14 ,and andS14ET then then the thePlated averages averages interlock werewereEri calculated.calculated.Silk Tencel The14.3 bi-layer14.8 knittedknitted fabricsfabrics237 werewere measuredmeasured1.05 15 S15EB Plated interlock Eri Silk Bamboo 14.3 14.8 215 0.98 using two different yarn counts and for their loop length, thickness, and areal density. The loop length was derived by unraveling 10 for their loop16 length,S16ET thickness,Plated interlock and arealEri densit Silk y.Tencel The loop14.3 length14.8 was derived229 by unraveling1.07 10 two different loop lengths (0.3 cm and 17 S17EB Mini flat back rib Eri Silk Bamboo 14.3 14.8 190 1.08 0.4 cm). 18 S18ET Mini flat back rib Eri Silk Tencel 14.3 14.8 163 0.98 19 S19EB Mini flat back rib Eri Silk Bamboo 14.3 14.8 179 1.01 Physical characterisation of test 20 S20ET Mini flat back rib Eri Silk Tencel 14.3 14.8 205 1.07 samples 21 S21EB Flat back rib Eri Silk Bamboo 14.3 14.8 180 1.04 All the samples were tested in Ameri- 22 S22ET Flat back rib Eri Silk Tencel 14.3 14.8 158 0.96 can Society for Testing and Materials 23 S23EB Flat back rib Eri Silk Bamboo 14.3 14.8 190 1.05 D1776 standard atmospheric conditions 24 S24ET Flat back rib Eri Silk Tencel 14.3 14.8 162 0.98 of 21 ± 1°C and 65 ± 2% RH. Five read-

68 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2021, Vol. 29, 2(146) ings were taken for each of the bi-layer Table 3. Moisture management results grading of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. Note: In fabrics, and then the averages were cal- the fabric sample plan, short codes are used to describe the samples: E-100% Eri silk yarn, B-100% Bamboo yarn, T-100% Tencel yarn. Note: WT: wetting time, AR: absorption rate, culated. The bi-layer knitted fabrics were MWR: maximum wetted radius, SS: spreading speed, AOTI: accumulative one-way transport measured for their loop length, thick- index, OMMC: overall moisture management capacity. ness, and areal density. The loop length S. Sample WTb, S AR, %/S MWR, mm SS, mm/s was derived by unraveling 10 courses, AOTI, % OMMC and their total length was measured. No code Top Bottom Top Bottom Top Bottom Top Bottom The average loop length was determined 1 S1EB 3 2 4 5 1 2 1 1 1 2 using the formula: total length × no. of 2 S2ET 3 2 4 5 1 2 1 2 1 2 wales/10. The thickness of the fabric was 3 S3EB 3 2 4 5 2 2 1 1 1 3 measured on a digital thickness tester. All 4 S4ET 3 2 4 5 2 2 1 2 1 3 the fabric samples were wet relaxed prior 5 S5EB 3 2 4 5 1 2 1 3 3 3 to testing by washing with detergent at 6 S6ET 3 2 4 5 1 2 1 2 2 3 7 S7EB 3 2 4 5 1 2 1 3 4 3 30 °C, followed by flat drying. Table 2, 8 S8ET 3 2 4 5 1 2 1 3 4 3 shows the sample codes, fabric structure, 9 S9EB 3 4 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 4 fibre on the top and bottom layers, yarn 10 S10ET 3 4 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 4 linear density, loop length, fabric areal 11 S11EB 3 5 2 3 1 2 3 4 2 3 density and thickness. 12 S12ET 3 4 2 3 1 2 3 3 2 3 13 S13EB 3 3 2 3 2 2 1 4 5 4 Comfort characteristics 14 S14ET 2 4 2 3 1 2 1 5 5 5 Testing of moisture management 15 S15EB 3 3 2 3 2 2 2 4 5 4 properties 16 S16ET 3 4 2 3 2 2 1 5 5 5 According to the American Association 17 S17EB 3 5 2 3 2 2 1 4 5 5 of Textile Chemists and Colorists test 18 S18ET 3 5 1 3 2 5 2 5 5 5 method 195, the multi-directional mois- 19 S19EB 3 5 2 4 2 5 2 5 5 5 ture transport capabilities of the fabrics 20 S20ET 3 5 1 4 2 5 2 5 5 5 were measured using a Moisture Man- 21 S21EB 3 5 2 3 3 4 2 5 5 5 agement Test (MMT) device. The fabric 22 S22ET 3 4 2 3 3 4 2 4 5 5 specimen is placed between two horizon- 23 S23EB 3 5 2 4 3 4 2 5 5 5 tal electrical sensors, each with concen- 24 S24ET 3 5 2 3 4 5 2 5 5 5

Table 4. ANOVA test.

S. No. Variables Sources of variation Sum of squares D.F Mean score ‘F’ value p value Significance Between groups 2.348 1 2.348 1 Top wetting time Within groups 1147.652 22 52.166 .045 .834 Not Significant Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 878.292 3 292.764 2 Bottom wetting time Within groups 271.708 20 13.585 21.550 .000 Significant Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 782.286 2 391.143 3 Top absorption rate Within groups 367.714 21 17.510 22.338 .000 Significant Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 832.103 2 416.051 4 Bottom absorption rate Within groups 317.897 21 15.138 27.484 .000 Significant Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 670.929 3 223.643 Top maximum wetting 5 Within groups 479.071 20 23.954 9.337 .000 Significant radius Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 719.250 2 359.625 Bottom maximum 6 Within groups 430.750 21 20.512 17.533 .000 Significant wetting radius Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 739.500 2 369.750 7 Top spreading speed Within groups 410.500 21 19.548 18.915 .000 Significant Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 909.268 4 227.317 8 Bottom spreading speed Within groups 240.732 19 12.670 17.941 .000 Significant Total 1150.000 23 Accumulative one Between groups 841.476 4 210.369 9 way transport capacity Within groups 308.524 19 16.238 12.955 .000 Significant index % Total 1150.000 23 Between groups 962.350 3 320.783 Overall moisture 10 Within groups 187.650 20 9.382 34.190 .000 Significant management Total 1150.000 23

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2021, Vol. 29, 2(146) 69 90 80

70 90 60 80

50 70 90 40 60 WTb,S Top 80 above variables are less than 0.05 at a 5% 30 50 7090 WTb,S Bottom significance level. Thus, there is a signif-

Wetting Time (WTb,S) 20 40 6080 WTb,S Top icant difference between the moisture 10 30 management properties, except for the 5070 WTb,S Bottom 0

Wetting Time (WTb,S) 20 top wetting time, in the study. 4060 10 WTb,S Top S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET 3050 S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB 0 WTb,S Bottom

Results and discussion

Wetting Time (WTb,S) 2040 Sample code WTb,S Top S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB 1030 S7EB S9EB Wetting time S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB WTb,S Bottom

Wetting time, WTb, S Wetting 0 Figure 1 shows the wetting time re- Wetting Time (WTb,S)

Figure. 1. Wetting 20time of eri Samplesilk bi code-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). 10 sults of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB The wetting time is the time taken to wet 0

Figure. 1. Wetting time of eri silk bi-layer knittedSample fabricscode (top and bottom). the top and bottom surfaces of the mate- S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB rial after the initiation of the test. As the S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB wetting time is one of the utmost parame- Sample code Figure. 1. Wetting time of Sampleeri silk code bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom).ters of moisture management, Table 3 in- 140 dicates that the the wetting time of eri silk 120 Figure 1. Wetting time of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). Figure. 1. Wetting time of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom).with bamboo as the top layer – and tencel 140 as the bottom layer is medium and slow, 100 respectively. This holds true for samples 120 80 S1EB to S9ET. Regarding S9EB and 100 140 S10ET, the wetting time becomes me- 60 AR, %/S Top dium and fast for bamboo as the eri silk 120 80 40 140 AR, %/S Bottom top layer tencel as the bottom layer, re- Absorption rate (%/S) 100 spectively. When an comparison is made 60 AR, %/S Top 20 120 for samples S11EB to S24ET, the wetting 40 80 0 AR, %/S Bottom time is observed to be medium for all eri

Absorption rate (%/S) 100 20 60 AR,silk %/S top Top layers, whereas it is very fast for S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB

80 S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB flat back rib in the bottom bamboo lay- 0 40

AR, %/S Bottom

er. It is clearly seen that sample S13B Absorption rate, %/S Absorption rate (%/S) 60 Sample code 20 AR,possesses %/S Top a medium wetting rate, while S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET 40 S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB AR,S14ET %/S Bottom has a fast one. Very fast wetting 0 Absorption rate (%/S)

Figure. 2. Absorption rate (%) of eriSample silk codebi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). rates are also observed for mini flat back 20 rib and flat back rib samples with bottom S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET 0 S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB layers of bamboo and tencel.

Figure. 2. Absorption rate (%) of eri silk bi-layerSample Sampleknitted code code fabrics (top and bottom). S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB Absorption rate

Figure 2. Absorption rate (%) of eri silk bi-layerSample knitted code fabrics (top and bottom). Figure 2, shows the absorption rate re- Figure. 2. Absorption rate (%) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). sults of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. During the initial change in water content tric pins.Figure. A predetermined 2. Absorption amount rate of (%) test of eri(4) silkv. good, bi-layer and (5) knitted excellent. fabrics The results(top and duringbottom). the test, the speed of liquid mois- solution is dropped onto the top centre of moisture management properties of eri ture absorption on both surfaces of the of the fabric specimen surface. The test silk bi-layer knitted fabrics are summa- material is termed as the absorption rate. solution freely moves in multi-directions, rised in Table 3. It may be further noted that the absorp-

spreads on the fabric top surface, moves tion rate was fast for eri silk’s top surface, through the specimen from the top to Statistics and the bottom was very fast for fabric

bottom surface, and radially spreads One-way analysis was utilised to check made up of bamboo and tencel. Further on the bottom surface of the specimen. the significant difference between the investigation showed the absorption rate The electrical resistance values were moisture management properties of eri to be slow for the top made of eri silk and used to calculate fabric liquid moisture silk with bamboo and Tencel combina- in the medium range for the bottom side movement, which quantifies the dynamic tions of raw materials at a 5 percent sig- manufactured from bamboo and tencel. liquid moisture transport behaviors of the nificance level using SPSS 16.0 version. Sample S18ET indicated a very slow fabric. In this experiment, specimens of Table 4 reveals one-way ANOVA test absorption rate on the top and medium 8.0 × 8.0 cm2 size were washed and con- results showing the significant difference rates on the bottom. Samples S19EB and ditioned for a day in standard atmospher- between the moisture management prop- S20ET clearly displayed a very low ab- ic conditions before testing. The indices erties of eri silk with bamboo and eri silk sorption rate on the top layers and a fast were converted from values to grades with tencel combinations of raw materi- one on the bottom layer. Finally, sam- based on five grade scale (1-5) according als for two different yarn counts: 30s & ples S21EB, S22ET and S24ET clearly to the American Association of Textile 40s, and three different fabric structures: showed slow absorption rates on the top Chemists and Colorists 195 test method. platted interlock, mini flat back rib, and side and medium on the bottom, where- The five grades of the indices represent flat back rib, with two different loop as sample S23EB had a slow absorption the following: (1) poor, (2) fair, (3) good, lengths of fabrics. p-values (sig.) of the rate on the top and a fast one on the bot-

70 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2021, Vol. 29, 2(146) 30

3025

2520 30

2015 tom. It should be noted that all the top 25 MWR, mm Top 10 15 layers were eri silk and the bottom was 30 20 MWR, mm Bottom a combination of bamboo and tencel. MWR, mm Top 5 Maximum wet radius (mm) 10 25 15 MWR, mm Bottom 0 Maximum wet radius

5 20 MWR, mm Top Maximum wet radius (mm) Figure 3 shows the maximum wetted 10 S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB MWR, mm Bottom S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET 0 radius results of S11EB eri silkS13EB bi-layerS15EB knittedS17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB

15 fabrics. The top and bottom surfaces of 5 Sample code Maximum wet radius (mm) MWR, mm Top S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB the S7EB materialS9EB measuring the largest ra- S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB 10 0

MWR, mm Bottom dius is calledSample the maximum code wet radius. Being another important aspect of mois- 5

Figure. 3. Maximum wet radius (mm) of eri silk bi-layer knittedMaximum wet radius, mm fabrics (top and bottom). Maximum wet radius (mm) S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET ture management, the maximum wet S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB 0

Figure. 3. Maximum wetradius radius was (mm) recorded. of eri Samples silk bi -layer S1EB, knitted fabrics (top and bottom). Sample code S2ET, S5EB, S6ET, S7EB, S8ET, S9EB, S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S10ET, S11EB, S12ET and S14ET ex- S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB Figure. 3. Maximum wet radius (mm) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). hibited no wetting on the top layer of the SampleSample code code 6 fabric and a small radius on the bottom. The maximum wet radius was small on 5 FigureFigure. 3. Maximum3. Maximum wet radius wet (mm)radius of eri (mm) silk bi-layer of eri silkknitted bi -fabricslayer (topknitted and bottom). fabrics (top and bottom). 6 both the top and bottom layers of S3EB

4 and S4ET. As far as samples S13EB, 5 S15EB, S16ET and S17EB are consid- 3 ered, the top and bottom layers of the 6

4 fabrics also displayed a small wet radius. SS, mm/s Top 2 5 3 The maximum wet radius was observed SS, mm/s Bottom 1 as medium on the top layer and large on 64 SS, mm/s Top Spreading speed (mm/s) speed Spreading

2 the bottom layers for samples S21EB, 0 SS, mm/s Bottom

53 1 S22ET and S23EB, and sample S24ET Spreading speed (mm/s) speed Spreading had a large radius on the top and a very SS, mm/s Top S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB 42 S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET 0 S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB

large one on the bottom layer. As already SS, mm/s Bottom mentioned, allSample the top code sides were man- 31 Spreading speed (mm/s) speed Spreading S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB ufactured using eri silk and tencel, with Spreading speed, mm/s SS, mm/s Top 20

bamboo utilisedSample for codethe bottom. Figure. 4. Spreading speed (mm/s) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). SS, mm/s Bottom

1 S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET

S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB Spreading speed (mm/s) speed Spreading S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET Surface spreading speed S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB 0

Figure. 4. Spreading speed (mm/s) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). Sample code Figure 4 shows the spreading speed re- Sample code

S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET sults of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB The test solution dropped at the maxi- Figure 4. Spreading speed (mm/s) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). Figure. 4. Spreading speed (mm/s)Sample of code eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). mum wetted radius accumulated at the

centre of the material, resulting in surface and S22ET indicated a slow and fast S12ET. Samples S1EB, S2ET, S3EB and wetting. The spreading speed of the sam- Figure. 4. Spreading speed (mm/s) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics (top and bottom). ples indicated that S1EB and S3EB had spreading speed on either layer. Samples S4ET had a poor AOTI. S18ET, S19EB, S20ET, S21EB, S23EB a very slow spreading speed on both the top and bottom layers. It was observed and S24ET possessed a slow spreading Overall moisture management that S2ET, S4ET and S6ET showed speed on the top layer and a very fast one capacity a very slow spreading speed on the top on the bottom layer. Figure 6 shows the overall moisture and a very slow one on the bottom sides management capacity results of eri silk of the fabrics. Samples S5EB, S7EB and Accumulative one way transport bi-layer knitted fabrics. The overall S8ET showed a very slow spreading index moisture management capacity is the ca- speed on the top and a medium one on Figure 5 shows the accumulative one pacity of a fabric to manage the transport the bottom of the manufactured fabrics. way transport index results of eri silk of liquid moisture, which includes three A combination of a medium spread- bi-layer knitted fabrics. The difference aspects of performance, the moisture ab- ing speed on the top and a fast one on in accumulative moisture between the sorption rate of the bottom side being one the bottom was interpreted for samples top and bottom surfaces of the fabric in of them. One way liquid transport capac- S9EB, S10ET and S11EB. The upper and the given time period is the accumulative ity is termed as OMMC. Samples S14ET, lower sides of sample S12ET had a me- one way transport index. The AOTI was S16ET, S17EB, S18ET, S19EB, S20ET, dium spreading speed. Likewise, sample recorded as excellent for samples S9EB, S21EB, S22ET, S23EB and S24ET were S13EB exhibited a very slow and fast S10E, S13EB, S14ET, S15EB, S16ET, recorded to have an excellent OMMC, spreading speed on the top and bottom S17EB, S18ET, S19EB, S20ET, S21EB, and samples S10ET, S13EB and S15EB layers, respectively. Very slow and very S22ET, S23EB and S24ET. It was very possessed a very good one. The results fast spreading speeds were recorded on good for samples S7EB, and S8ET. of samples S3EB, S4ET, S5EB, S6ET, the top and bottom layers of S14ET and The AOTI was observed to be good for S7EB, S8ET, S11EB and S12ET dis- S16ET, respectively. Samples S15EB S5EB and fair for S6ET, S11ET and played a good OMMC, while fair one

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2021, Vol. 29, 2(146) 71 700 600 500 400

300

200 700 AOTI (%) AOTI (%) 100 600 0

500

-100 400 S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB -200 300 -300 200 Sample code AOTI (%) AOTI (%) 100

Figure. 5. AOTI (%) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics.-100 S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB -200 -300 Sample code

1 Figure. 5. AOTI (%) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. 0.9 0.8 0.7

0.6 0.5 count reveals a very good or excellent OMMC as compared to the 30 s count.

OMMC 1 0.4 0.9 OMMC 0.3 0.8 Effect of fabric structure combination 0.2 0.7 A comparison between the plated inter- 0.1 0.6 lock, mini flat back rib, and flat back rib 0

0.5 structures indicated that the wetting time OMMC OMMC of flat back rib was comparatively very S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB 0.4 S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB OMMC 0.3 good. It was evaluated that the wetting Sample code time was slow and very fast in the mini 0.2 flat back rib, whereas it wasa combi- 0.1 nation of slow, medium and fast in the 0

Figure. 6. OMMC of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. plated interlock structure. The absorption rate was more likely to be fast and very S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB fast on the top and bottom of the plated 700 SampleSample code code interlock structure. Very few were slow

600 or medium. This shows a slightly higher Figure 6. OMMC of eriFigure. silk bi-layer 6. OMMC knitted fabrics.of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. absorption compared to that of the mini 500 flat back rib and flat back rib structures, which are generally slow on the top and 400

fast or medium on the bottom. A descrip- 300 700 tive study indicated a small or no wetting 200 radius on the top side of fabric of plated 600 AOTI (%) AOTI (%) 100 interlock and mini flat back rib structure. 500 While either a medium or fast wetting ra- 0

400 dius is found on the top side of the flat -100 back rib structure, which is identified to S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB 300 S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB -200 be better than its counterpart. The spread- 200 AOTIing speed(%) is noted to be greater in the flat AOTI (%) -300 AOTI, % Sample code 100 back rib structure, being medium or slow 0 on the top side of the fabric, and fast,

very fast or medium on the bottom. But -100 S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB to a maximum level, the spreading speed

Figure. 5. AOTI (%) of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB -200 is very slow or slow on the top side, and -300 slow, medium, fast or very fast on the Sample code bottom part of plated interlock structure Sample code and mini flat back rib. The mini flat back rib shows an excellent AOTI range when Figure 5. AOTI (%) Figure.of eri silk 5. bi-layer AOTI knitted (%) of fabrics. eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics. 1 compared to the plated interlock and flat back rib structures. The OMMC is rela- 0.9 tively higher in the flat back rib structure 0.8 was tabulated for samples S1EB, and Effect on yarn count combination than in the mini flat back rib and plated S2ET. A yarn count comparison between 30 s 0.7 interlock structures. 0.6 and 40 s highlights that the wetting time Effect of raw material combination of 40 s is higher than for 30 s. The 30 s 0.5 1 Effect of loop length combination The wetting time of eri silk combined count possesses a maximum absorption OMMC 0.9 0.4 with tencel is very good compared to eri rate when compared to the 40 s count. The wetting time both 0.3 cm and 0.4 cm 0.8 OMMC 0.3 silk combined with bamboo. The absorp- The maximum wet radius is reliable for loop lengths for the top side is identified 0.7 0.2 tion rate of eri silk combined with bam- the 40 s count, which comprises small, to be medium, whereas the range for the

0.1 boo and0.6 that with tencel is the same, with medium, large and very large, whereas bottom side shows that the 0.4 cm loop 0 only 0.5a slight difference. The maximum no wetting or small radius is observed length is better in this regard. The 0.4 cm

wettingOMMC 0.4 radius of eri silk combined with for the 30 s count. The spreading speed loop length bears a higher absorption rate OMMC S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB 0.3 compared to the 0.3 cm loop length. On

S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET is either very slow or medium on the top S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB bambooS21EB S23EB is found to be better than for eri Sample code silk combined0.2 with tencel. The spreading part and very slow, slow, medium or fast comparing the maximum wetting radius, the 0.4 cm loop length is found to have speed0.1 of eri silk combined with bamboo on the bottom layer of the 30 s count. But is found0 to be higher than for eri silk when the 40 s count is studied, it is seen a good maximum wet radius compared to

Figure. 6. OMMC of eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics.combined with tencel. The AOTI of eri that the spreading speed is very slow or the 0.3 cm loop length. It can be stated S2ET S4ET S6ET S8ET S1EB S3EB S5EB S7EB S9EB slow on the upper part and very fast or that the spreading speed for the 0.3 cm

silk combined with bamboo is marginal-S10ET S12ET S14ET S16ET S18ET S20ET S22ET S24ET S11EB S13EB S15EB S17EB S19EB S21EB S23EB ly higher than for eri silk combined withSample fast code on the bottom layer, which, hence, and 0.4 cm loop lengths is more or less tencel. An excellent range of OMMC is seems to be best of the two. The AOTI is the same. The 0.3 cm loop length shows indicated in eri silk combined with bam- found to be excellent for the 40 s count, a better AOTI than the 0.4 cm loop boo, which is found Figure.to be better 6. OMMC than for of whereaseri silk biit -layeris either knitted poor, fabrics.fair, good or length, while the OMMC of the 0.4 cm eri silk combined with tencel. very good for the 30 s count. The 40 s loop length is found to be good.

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Received 25.06.2020 Reviewed 26.11.2020

74 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2021, Vol. 29, 2(146)