Influence of Feed Yarn Techniques on Absorption Rate of Bi-Material Knitted Single Jersey Fabrics P
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Volume 11, Issue 2, 2020 Influence of Feed Yarn Techniques on Absorption Rate of Bi-material knitted Single Jersey Fabrics P. Kanakaraj and R. Ramachandran PSG College of Technology, India ABSTRACT Innovation in product developments reveals higher benefits in the applications of functional and aesthetic aspects. The knitted fabrics are used in development of moisture management products than other fabrics. In this study the single jersey fabrics are produced with bi-materials such as polyester/cotton, polypropylene/cotton and nylon/cotton. The cotton leed yarn feed, synthetic leed yarn feed, combined yarn feed and plated feed techniques were adopted for the production of plain jersey fabrics. The rate of water absorption (percentage area/second) of the produced fabrics has studied using Adobe Photoshop CS-2. The influence of feeding techniques on absorption rate of jersey fabrics was studied. Based on result and statistical analysis, it reveals the absorption rate of the various bi-material knitted fabrics has significant difference with respect to yarn feeds and variation of time periods. The polyester constituted knitted fabrics has higher absorption rate as compared to other combination yarn feed fabrics. Keywords: knitting, moisture absorption, Image analysis, yarn feed 1. Introduction capillarity, but uses the absorption method, The moisture vapor from the human body which let water to penetrate through the can pass through openings between fibers or fabric. Based on fiber type, yarns to the atmosphere. The moisture construction/structure of the fabric, management of the textile materials plays thickness/weight and chemical treatment of important role to keep the wearer comfort. the fabric the behavior of the fabric is varied. The primary objective of moisture The property of the fabric is mainly management fabric in clothing is concerned, depending on its base fibrous properties [1]. the transport of both moisture vapor and The polypropylene fiber have very low liquid away from the body. In hot conditions, moisture absorbency but excellent in trapped moisture can heat up and lead to moisture vapor permeability and wicking fatigue or diminished performance. In cold capabilities. As polypropylene does not conditions, trapped moisture will drop in become wet and its thermal insulation is temperature and cause chilling and retained during and after strenuous activity. hypothermia. Excess moisture may also Polyester has outstanding dimensional cause the garment to become heavy, as well stability and offer excellent resistance to dirt, as cause damage to the skin from chafing. alkalis, decay, mold and most common Cotton fiber is a good moisture absorber. organic solvents. Being durable, yet Contrary to synthetic fibers, it does not lightweight, elastic and a comfortable smooth transport water from the surface by using the feel, these are all important qualities to Article Designation: Refereed 1 JTATM Volume 11, Issue 2, 2020 consumers for wide variety of applications. (%/sec.) of bi-material knitted single jersey Excellent heat resistance, good moisture fabric has been studied. transport properties, low moisture 2. Methods and Materials absorption, easy care properties and low cost The single jersey fabrics are produced make it very useful [2]. Nylon has in single jersey knitting machine. The characteristics like lightweight, exceptional parameters of the knitting machine are as strength, good drape ability, abrasion follows, Make: Vertex Soloman Engineers, resistant, easy to wash, resists shrinkage and Delhi, Year: 1980, Machine diameter: 3.5 wrinkling resilient, fast drying, low moisture inches. Number of needles: 160. Needle type: absorbency, can be pre-colored or dyed in a Long-hofa 71.60 G04, Short- hofa 71.60 wide range of colors, resistant to damage G03. from oil and many chemicals, static and pilling can be problem, poor resistant to 2.1 Bi-material Fabric Development continuous sunlight. The synthetic yarns such as polyester, The combining synthetic and natural polypropylene and nylon were used as yarn in development of moisture individual yarn as combined with cotton yarn management knit fabric produced from many in different combinations. The bi-material methods such as blending of synthetic with knitted fabric the linear density of the cotton yarn in yarn processing state. In knit synthetic yarn 66sNe and the linear density of fabric combination of stitches produced from the cotton yarn is 40sNe is maintained for all blending of yarns in fixed striper and auto fabrics production. The 12 samples were stripper techniques. By production of layered produced with synthetic and cotton yarn fabric, raw material variation in layer by layer combinations as given in table 1 with sample either splitable or sandwich structure. The codes. The yarn feeding techniques are moisture management property of the plated synthetic leed feed, cotton leed feed, fabric is improved by synthetic fabric. The combined feed and plated yarn feed raw materials used in the plated fabrics have techniques are illustrated in figure 1. The face the inner layer finer than those of the outer and back side of the single jersey fabrics are layer. Within the inner layer yarn, the fibers as shown in table 2. The single jersey fabric were relatively the coarser than within the produced from synthetic leed and cotton leed outer layer yarn [4]. For liquid transport yarn feeds produces random combination of within fabrics, two phenomena must be synthetic and cotton yarns in face and back accounted: wetability and wickability. The side of the fabrics. term ‘wetting’ is usually used to describe the Cotton Leed defined as the feed yarn, change from a solid-air interface to a solid- consists of two yarns in the knitting creel, liquid interface. Wicking is the spontaneous which consist of core yarn as synthetic yarn flow of liquid in a porous substrate, driven by and the wrap yarn as cotton yarn. Synthetic capillary forces [3]. The liquid spreading area Leed defined as the feed yarn consists of two is depends on the structure and raw material yarns in the knitting creel, which consist of used in the fabric. The special polyester is core yarn as cotton yarn and the wrap yarn as used as compared to polypropylene, synthetic yarn. The horizontal stripes polyamide and ordinary polyester. The produced from cotton leed and synthetic leed combined knit structure produces dynamics feed yarns are very small and vary good wetting liquid spot as compared to plain weft visual effect as shown in table 2. Whereas the knitted plated fabric. The arrangement of jersey fabric produced from the combined natural and manmade yarn stitches in the yarn feed are in random combination of inner and outer surface of the knit fabric synthetic and cotton yarns and also there is no influences the wetting area of the liquid [5]. unique pattern in stripes. The perfect plated The attempt has been taken to study the fabric also produced from the above synthetic influence of yarn feeding techniques on rate and cotton yarn combinations. of water absorption in terms of pixels Article Designation: Refereed 2 JTATM Volume 11, Issue 2, 2020 Table 1: Raw material Particulars Sample Yarn feed Bi-material Bi-material combination No. technique fabric code 1 Cotton-nylon NC-CL 2 Cotton leed Cotton-polypropylene PPC-CL 3 Cotton- polyester PC-CL 4 Cotton-polypropylene PPC-SL 5 Synthetic leed Cotton-polyester PC-SL 6 Cotton-nylon NC-SL 7 Cotton-nylon NC-CM 8 Combined Cotton-polyester PC-CM 9 Cotton-polypropylene PPC-CM 10 Cotton-polypropylene PPC-PLG 11 Plating Cotton-polyester PC-PLG 12 Cotton-nylon NC-PLG Figure 1. Yarn feed Techniques Article Designation: Refereed 3 JTATM Volume 11, Issue 2, 2020 3. Testing using the following formula, the average loop The produced single jersey knit fabrics length (cm) was taken and reported in table 3. was given relaxation process and carried out Stitch length/loop length in cm = (LT)/20 the following test. The knitted fabric parameters and absorption area (pixels) are The tightness of knits was given in table 3. characterized by the tightness factor. It is known that, is a ratio of the area covered by 3.1 Geometrical Parameters the yarns in one loop to the area occupied by The courses and wale density of the the loop. It is also an indication of the relative samples were calculated individually in the looseness or tightness of the knitted structure. direction of the length and width of the knit For determination of TF the following fabric. The average density per square formula was used centimeter was taken for the discussion. The √T 20 loops in a course were unraveled and Tightness Factor (TF) = /l measured the length of yarn in cm (LT) both Where T= Yarn linear density in Tex, l = loop T face and back of the fabric. From the L value length of fabric in cm. the stitch length/loop length was measured by Table 2. Single Jersey Knitted fabrics Article Designation: Refereed 4 JTATM Volume 11, Issue 2, 2020 3.2 Area of Absorption-Image Analysis 3.2.1 Percentage Absorption Area The produced single jersey bi-material The absorption areas of the produced fabrics were taken for the area of water knit fabrics were done based on the above absorption study. The distilled water is taken procedure. The percentage absorption area of in the pipette, which is fixed perpendicularly the knit fabrics also recorded in table 3. The 10 cm distance between the water drop and determination of the parameter is done based the base level. At the same time the HD video on the equation mentioned below camera also fixed for capturing the area of Absorption area (%) = (Area of absorption. One drop of distilled water is absorption with respect to time – Area of dropped from the pipette which is recorded absorption at initial state) / Area of till the drop of water is fully wetted and absorption with respect to time) x 100 spread.