Maria Wittendorff You r Guide To

muusmann FORLAG CONTENTS

7 Foreword 57 Musée Tiskiwin 97 Dar Bellarj 138 Restaurants & Cafés – Museum Bert Flint 98 Dar Moulay 59 Heritage Museum 99 Comptoir des Mines 140 The Moroccan Kitchen 8 A Long Story Short 62 Maison de la Photographie 100 Festivals 64 Musée de 102 David Bloch Gallery 143 Gueliz 65 Musée Boucharouite 102 Galerie 127 143 Grand Café de la Poste 12 Historic Sights 67 Musée de la Femme 103 Musée Mathaf Farid Belkahia 144 La Trattoria 68 Musée des Parfums 104 Maison Denise Masson 145 +61 14 El Koutoubia 70 Aman – Musée Mohammed VI 105 La Qoubba Galerie d’Art 146 Gaïa 16 The Almoravid 71 Observatoire Astronomie 106 Street Art 146 Amandine 17 The City Wall & Gates – Atlas Golf 147 Le Loft 19 Jamaa el-Fna 147 Le 68 Bar à Vin 22 108 Riads & Hotels 148 Barometre 24 The 72 & Parks 149 L’Annexe 26 Architecture 110 Z 150 Le Petit Cornichon 32 El Badi 74 Jardin Majorelle 111 Zwin Zwin Boutique Hotel & Spa 150 L’Ibzar 35 Medersa Ben Youssef 77 Jardin Secret 112 Riad Palais des Princesses 151 Amal 37 El Bahia 79 The Islamic 113 Riad El Walaa 152 Café Les Négociants 39 80 Jardin Menara 113 Dar Annika 153 Al Fassia – Musée des Confluences 82 Jardin Agdal 114 Riad Houma 153 Patron de la Mer 41 The Tanneries 83 Anima Garden 114 Palais Riad Lamrani 154 Moncho’s House Café 42 84 Cyber Park 115 Riad Spa Azzouz 154 Le Warner 44 The Lazama Synagogue 85 Jardin des Arts 116 La Maison Arabe 155 Kui-Zin Gueliz 44 The Jewish 86 Parc El Harti 118 Riad Ifoulki 155 16 Café 45 The Seven Saints 86 Parc Lalla Hasna 119 Dar Lalla F’dila 47 Saint Martyrs Church 87 La Palmeraie 122 Riad Star 156 Jamaa el-Fna 87 Musée de la Palmeraie 122 La Ferme Medina 156 Café de 88 Jarjeer Mule and Donkey Refuge 123 Riad Nashira & Spa 156 L’Adresse 48 Museums 124 Riad Les Jardins des Lilas 157 Café Guerrab 124 Villa Verde 158 Le Salama 50 Musée de Marrakech 90 Art & Culture 125 Hotel Les Jardins de la Medina 158 Zwin Zwin Café 51 Musée Berbère 126 159 Café Kif-Kif 52 Musée Yves Saint-Laurent 92 The Orientalist Museum 128 Beldi Country Club 53 The Berber Peoples 93 MACMA 132 56 94 MACAAL 136 Hammam de la 96 Riad Yima 136 Heritage Spa

2 3 160 Riad Zitoun & Douar Graoua 183 Riad Laarous 206 Religion 160 Pepe Nero 183 La Ferme Medina 206 Flag 161 La Famille 184 Moul Tanjia 207 Form of Government 162 Naranj 185 Dar Simons 207 Languages 162 Blackchich 207 Currency 163 Un Déjeuner 186 Sidi Ben Slimane & 208 Price Level & Tips 164 La Pergola Diour Saboune 208 The Weather 164 Henna Art Café 186 Limoni 208 Clothes 165 Dar Essalam 187 Dar 208 Transport 166 Koulchi Zine 210 Sightseeing Busses 210 Bicycles 167 188 Shopping & 211 Motorbike Trips 167 Café Clock Handicrafts 211 Horse Carts 168 La Table de la Kasbah 211 Public Holidays 168 Kasbah Café & Restaurant 190 The Souk 212 Sport 169 Grill at 191 Goods 212 Children and Marrakesh 192 La Clinique du Ballon 213 Night Life 170 Place des Épices 193 Ensemble Artisanal 213 Mountains & 170 Café des Épices 194 Retailing Streets and Markets 170 Nomad 196 Ceramics 171 Shtatto 197 Lamps 214 Photo Credits 197 Mustapha Blaoui 173 Kaat Benahid 198 Carpets and Rugs 173 Le Foundouk 199 16 Soufiane Zarib 216 Index 174 Kafé Merstan 200 Textiles 174 Bigua 201 Shopping Centres 175 Trou au Mur and Designer Shops 224 Map 201 33 Rue Majorelle 176 Sidi Abdelaziz 202 Max & Jan 176 Terrasse des Épices 202 Souk Cherifia 176 Le Jardin 203 Chabi Chic 177 Kui-Zin 204 Beauty Care 178 Soul Food 205 Flea Market 178 Café Atay 205

180 Mouassine & Bab 180 La Table du Palais 206 Facts & Info 181 Café Arabe 181 206 The Country 182 Dar Moha 206 City & Citizens

4 5 Foreword

Marrakesh! Marrakesh! Enchanting, extraordinary, evocative, and enthralling! Founded for enormous conquests, for many years the capital of an empire, a political, economic, and cultural centre, and today it is the sum of everything that ever ran through its narrow, red streets, over legendary squares and along a city wall which has seen it all happen and still embraces this fairy tale city. It is no wonder that artists, bohemians, adventurers, and pleasure lovers have been attracted for centuries to this city, and today millions of tourists pour in from all corners of the globe to experience the 1001 nights’ fairy tale which is still being told here in well-kept and exceedingly evocative surroundings.

From the start, it has been a great joy and a privilege to be allowed the opportunity to write about Marrakesh, exploring the city, visiting sights, spending hours on research, collecting notes, interviewing people, snapping thousands of pictures, and subsequently devoting days and weeks in front of the computer to compile all these impressions into a narrative. Everything you find in this , I have tried and tested myself – I have eaten at every one of the restaurants, I have visited all the sights, I have experienced all four seasons in the city, and I have walked and walked through all corners of the medina in order to encounter new adventures.

When I say that I am writing about Marrakesh, I usually get one of three reactions. Either people say, ‘Ah! I’ve always dreamt of visiting that place!’ or, ‘Great! I am just planning a trip there’ or, ‘Funny, I’ve just come back from there, and I am definitely going back!’ Mar- rakesh has been on everybody’s lips in recent years, and the reasons are legion. This is a city waiting to be discovered, experienced, and/or revisited.

If you are reading this now, my guess is that you are going to find yourself in one of the above categories; no matter which of the three – or maybe even a fourth – you will be very welcome – here, in this book as well as in the red city! My hope is that you will make use of the book for inspiration before your trip, as your guide during your stay, and when you are going to decide on what to do and where to go for good food. And then, of course, there are lots of background stories along the way, the types that will hopefully help to give you a much more intense and interesting experience of this unique destination.

I wish you and your fellow travellers an unforgettable journey to Marrakesh!

Maria Wittendorff

6 A LONG STORY SHORT

Before exploring the city, it is a good idea to have a look at its history. When you get a The Almoravids feeling of its past – the things that are hidden in its walls, its alleys, and its great buildings Abdullah Ibn Yasin had studied the – your experience will be so much more in- intensely and wanted to spread the message tensified and fulfilling. and make ‘real’ of the whole region. The history of Marrakesh goes back His mission began in the place known today nearly 1,000 years. In those days there was as . He gathered a group of tribes not yet a nation state in the country towards under his command and called them the Al- the west, but more precisely any number of moravids – ‘those who are united in serving independent Berber clans – the indigenous God’. They belonged to the tribe, a people of – who were influenced by camel-riding people, and in the year 1044, a succession of Arab dynasties following the 1,000 men from the tribe rode towards the Arab invasion around the year 700. The Ber- town of Sijilmasa towards the north – one of ber peoples were Muslims, but they main- the largest trade centres in . They con- tained their original Berber traditions while quered the town and gained control over the was not always observed strictly. One gold trade from the south, thereby obtaining did Ibn Tashfin complete the mission, he they were attacked by Christians from the man’s idealism would change not only that funds for more camels and weapons. also managed to transform the tiny kingdom north, and the Caliph, then, turned to the but also the history of the entire country. The army moved on and crossed the At- into an enormous and powerful empire. Dur- Almoravids for help. The Almoravids came las Mountains, which constituted the border ing his reign, the town reached new heights to their aid and dispelled the Christians, but between the desert and the lush and fertile – he constructed pipelines carrying water Ibn Tashfin was not keen on his new fellow land on the other side. The army took the for the inhabitants and built an enormous believers. He was contemptuous of the Anda- town of in 1058, but as the town had wall around the town for their protection. All lusians’ lack of morals and their extravagant mountains on three sides which made it dif- the streets and squares of the town were by living, and he decided that their subjects de- ficult to defend – they needed a new head- and large built at this time. served better. As a result, he returned with quarters; and, thus Marrakesh was created. He continued the holy war in the north a large army and conquered the Andalusian The Almoravids chose a flat, open piece and conquered one town after another – Fez, kingdom, which covered most of the Iberian of land where they founded their new town , – and thus, in a short space Peninsula. For the first time ever, such a vast and named it ‘God’s Land’ – in Berber Amur of time he succeeded in gaining control area of land was unified under one regent, Akush – Marrakesh. The town was founded over the whole of the western part of North and Marrakesh became the capital. around 1070, and it grew quickly to become ­Africa. 80 years old, Ibn Tashfin dies, and a dif- a real town and a mighty power base in the In , in southern , and Por- ferent era begins with his very young son region. tugal, a parallel Muslim community, under Ali Ibn Youssef who adopted a more liberal The clan’s new leader, Yusuf Ibn Tashfin, the Caliph of Cordoba, had existed since the outlook, and art and literature flourished un- is considered the founder of Marrakesh, but beginning of the 8th century – a rich civili- der his reign. On the other hand, he was not it is widely recognised that his wife, Zainab sation with magnificent palaces and elegant gifted with a great strategic overview, and al-Nafzawiyyah, was his co-regent. Not only gardens. During the 11th century, however, his power eventually began to crumble.

8 9 mark on the town. They demolished the Al- brought back by the Arab clan the Saadians moravids’ buildings and built new ones in a who, after having conquered Fez in 1549, Moroccan novel style with several more sophisticated make Marrakesh the kingdom’s capital once details than those of their predecessors’. The more. Now the city experiences her golden dynasties empire itself was expanded – they seized age and prospers hugely. from the founding of Marrakesh power in Andalusia, made capital In 1666 it is the turn of the , the until today number two after Marrakesh, and expanded current king’s clan who like the Saadians in by annexing the part which are descendants of the prophet Mohammed The Berber Dynasties: was then called Ifrikiya and covered – but now the city loses its status as capital The Almoravids (1060-1147) as well as large parts of Libya. forever. The Almohads (1147-1248) The Almohads preached a much more A new chapter begins in 1912, when The Merinids (1248-1465) severe Islam than the Almoravids had done, France makes the country a French protec- The Wattasids (1471-1549) and they demanded piety, asceticism, and torate until 1956, when Morocco gains its modesty, although the style of the more em- independence as a kingdom under Moham­ The Arab Dynasties: bellished Andalusia gradually rubbed off on med V, then Hassan II and, since 1999, The Saadians (1549-1659) some of the architecture. On the other hand, ­Mohammed VI. The Alawites (1666- ) theirs was not an intellectually oppressive rule. All the caliphs were religious scholars, and important teaching institutions flour- ished in the town of Fez, attracting students from all over the empire resulting in great developments within science, history, phi- The Almohads losophy, medicine, and religious studies. However, what had been gained intel- At the same time, hostile Berber tribes in lectually was lost in military prowess. The the mountains were lying in wait ready to as- Christians prepared for battle and returned sume power, and one group, the Almohads to Andalusia, where they were victorious. – ‘those, who believe in one god’ – became a Thus, the control of the important trade serious threat. Mohammed was from north to south was lost and with it the their leader, and here history turns into a power. That was the end of the Almohads in déjà vu. He had studied the Quran for years 1269 – following just 100 years of rule, but and saw himself as the spiritual leader, who with the fabulous buildings, which are still was chosen to reintroduce the true Islam. there today as a testimony to a great period. Almost 20 years of fighting now ensued be- tween the two enemies. The town wall was expanded and made even higher in order Later to keep out the attackers, but in 1147 it all ended – the Almohads were able – with their The Merinids now gained control and moved new leader, Abd el-Mu’min – to take the town the capital to Fez. The ensuing years are tur- as the new victors, and with that they gained bulent for Marrakesh which now and again power over the empire. obtains status as a sort of autonomous state. Immediately, they started to leave their A short-lived time of honour and dignity is

10 11 HISTORIC SIGHTS

Three development phases have specifically left their marks on Marrakesh, hand­ ing down several monuments, palaces, and buildings which bring us into contact with the circles of history to this day. The first period was the actual foundation in the 11th and 12th centuries under the Almoravids and the Almohads. The next period was the golden age in the 16th century under the Saadians, particularly with Ahmed el-Mansour at the forefront, and finally the time of upheaval around 100 years ago, when the French put their mark firmly on the urban devel- opment, and powerful, local civil servants created new, magnificent palaces. This chapter presents the historic nucleus of sights which are a must, in order to have a starting point for appreciating what this city is made of.

Fortunately, the have a great understanding of how important these sights are, and you cannot help noticing how exquisite the preservation and re- storation are. This means, however, that you must sometimes wait for places to be restored, and at the time of writing the impressive Quran school, Medersa Ben Youssef, as well as the nearby Almoravid Dome are both being restored and are reopening for visitors sometime in 2020. Fortunately, there are lots of beautiful places to discover meanwhile.

12 13 point, there are calls for prayer five times a El Koutoubia day in the direction of the four corners of the world – today this is achieved from the Any trip around Marrakesh starts with El ground by the help of a loudspeaker high up Koutoubia – the city’s biggest and in the tower. Precisely because of the ramp its symbol. No matter where you are, you inside the tower, the ’s four sides are see the minaret with its 77 metres including all different. The windows had to fit with the the spire, towering like a lighthouse which ramp and are, therefore, at different levels as can be seen from as far away as 30 km. Like it twists upward. a natural gathering point, it beckons peo- The original adornment made from cera­ ple from dawn to dusk, and when a sunset mics is long gone. Now, only a band of cera­ is hanging alluringly behind the mosque mic tiles above in white and green is seen. in pink and hues, the space in front The rest of the tower is characterised by very of the mosque will be teeming with people; detailed and beautiful ornamentation – jag- families and friends out for an evening walk. ged windows, niches, and interwoven arcs The first mosque was erected on this whose forms have been inspired by strict space by the Almoravids, and when the Al- ­geometry and in natures floral patterns. mohad dynasty seized power some years A legend is told about the golden balls, later they reconstructed the mosque be- at the top of the minaret, which according tween 1162-1199. By way of explanation, the to traditional Moroccan style diminish their orthodox Almohads offered as reason for the diameters toward the top – the largest is six reconstruction: That the first mosque had simple and almost ascetic, and the mosque, metres in diameter. Originally, there were only three balls, but according to legend, a not been placed correctly in the direction of whose minaret later became the model for fourth was donated by Yacoub al-Mansour’s , but perhaps it was just an excuse to the in and La in wife. She had eaten three grapes during the remove all traces of their enemies and pre- Seville, was one of their most characteristic fast at Ramadan, and because she felt guilty, decessors. As something distinctive for El buildings. The mosque is built from sand- she had her gold jewellery melted to create Koutoubia, it was erected during the reign stone and with a relatively simple facade, a fourth, small ball furthest up in the mina- of just one person, the Caliph Yacoub al- while the minaret is decorated. Inside is a ret, as a gift to the mosque. Today, the balls Mansour, although it was probably his pre- large court with arcades around an enor- are made from copper, and two versions of decessor Abd el-Mu’min who initiated the mous prayer hall with 100 columns which what the original balls symbolised exist: The construction. Other comparable , can accommodate 25,000 praying people at three most important mosques in Islam in like the great mosque in Cordoba, Spain, any one time. Only Muslims are allowed in Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem – or the el- took more than 200 years to be completed. the mosque, but the sight from outside of the ements earth, water, and fire. Maybe both The name of the mosque comes from the yellow sandstone against the blue skies and versions are true – as they are both told in- for , koutoub. When the mosque the beautiful details on the minaret can be discriminately. was erected, there was a large market appreciated by everyone. I can recommend going for a walk all the with nearly 100 bookstores selling various The minaret itself is just short of 13 x 13 way around the mosque, which looks very books and manuscripts – an interesting and metres. Inside are six rooms, one on every different from the changing angles. At the thought-provoking detail, seeing that books floor, and around each one is a ramp which back, there is a small garden. Read more at this point in history were virtually an un- twists up through the tower, so that the mu- about it on page 86. known phenomenon in the Christian world. ezzin in days gone by was able to ride a don- The building style of the Almohads was key all the way up to the balcony. From this Av. Mohammed V

14 15 The building is richly decorated – outside Lalla Zohra’s Shrine there are delicately carved door- and win- The City Wall & Gates dow openings, a jagged border on top and In front of El Koutoubia, a small, white an embellished dome in the shape of a pi- There is something extremely fascinating building shines brightly – its existence necone. Inside, there are lavish flower pat- about the thick, pink city wall in Marrakesh. is a very rare occurrence, a shrine to a terns, carved palm trees and leaves, as well You almost get the urge to go and rest your woman named Lalla Zohra El Kouch. Leg- as calligraphy and inscriptions which are the hands and forehead against it, shut your end has it that a wanted to court oldest in the whole of North Africa with a dis- eyes, and try to imagine what this bombastic her for her beauty and even held her tinct script known as Maghrebi. The richness building witnessed when it was built some- prisoner, but she refused to budge, as her of detail is amazing, when you bear in mind time during the beginning of the 12th cen- piety bade her to serve God only. By day that the dome is 900 years old. The reason tury. The wall is one of the oldest buildings she was a human being, by night she was the dome is so important for posterity is be- found in the city, created by the Almoravids transformed into a dove, and thus she be- cause its style forms the basis for all future as a defence against the enemy – huge and came the symbol of a beautiful, pure, and architecture in Morocco. strong – nevertheless, not able to keep the free will as well as an important icon for At the time of writing this, the dome is subsequent dynasty, the Almohads, at bay the women of Marrakesh. being renovated and it is only possible to (see p. 8). view it from outside. Word has it that it will The wall encircles the , the be open to visitors again in 2020 in a new and ­medina, parts of which towards the north brilliant version. Until then, it is only possi- and the south were built during the reign of The Almoravid Dome ble to catch a glimpse of the top of the dome the Saadians in the 16th century. The wall is when walking past. 9 metres high and 2 metres wide and built It is not as if it calls attention to itself – ac- ­using the French method called pisé where- tually, it is easy to miss the small, domed Place Ben Youssef, Kaat Benahid by clay is forced into a wooden framework building, which is opposite the , lowered in proportion to the street level. Nevertheless, it is worth stopping and spending a few minutes looking at it. This Qoubba Almoravide, as it is known here, is the only building in the whole of Morocco, which is left from the time of the Almoravids, who founded Marrakesh (see p. 8). It was built in 1117, and with its small pool in the mid- dle it was used for ablution prior to prayers, and the building also contained a sort of privy, a bath, and a drinking . When this, of all buildings, has been preserved, it is probably down to luck. During several developments on the mosque opposite it, it was ­buried and was only rediscovered and dug out around 1950. That is why it is below street level, since several layers have been built on top of the original foundation.

16 17 MUSEUMS

There is an abundance of museums in the city with several of them concerned with the cultural heritage, which is so rich and manifold. As will appear, many of the city’s small museums have been created by private people and driven by a cer- tain passion for passing on knowledge and culture to the public – both to those who visit, as well as those who live in the city and the country. It might not be far- fetched to suggest that it is the magical atmosphere and beauty of the city which increase innovation and creative powers and sets the pace. In any case, there is no shortage of passionate and imaginative souls involved – for our great enjoyment.

The museums are spread out over the city which means that there are nearly al- ways interesting places at hand when walking around the different quarters. There are some museums which you will not find in this chapter; the art museums which appear in their own chapter on art and culture (see p. 90). Another museum is categorised under gardens and parks, because it is more logical for it to be there.

48 49 GARDENS & PARKS

Marrakesh is known as ‘The Red City’ because of its myriad of houses all with the same rose-tinted clay colour, or at least some shade of it. Originally, at the tentati- ve beginnings of the city, when there was only scattered housing, it was very green thanks to being placed among several - and palm groves – which earned it the sobriquet ‘A Rose among Palm Trees’ or ‘Oasis in the Desert’. Fortunately, in recent years much energy has been spent on making Marrakesh green once more – through environmental initiatives like solar energy and the introduction of electric busses, but also through the several green gardens and parks, which are dotted around the city like little oases. This goes for the greatest sights like the Jardin Majorelle and Jardin Secret, as well as for the small, public parks where you can enjoy shade and tranquillity. All in all, it is remarkable how quickly noise and activity from the hustle and bustle of the city evaporate when you walk into these gardens and exchange the din from outside for singing birds, buzzing insects, floral scents, and – just peace.

72 73 ART & CULTURE

The art world of Marrakesh is effervescent and ever-changing – regarding the ­older, art, as well as the contemporary, modern one. The stage has been set in museums, galleries, and even the streets, where street art is popping up every­ where, and it all seems clear-cut and natural in a city which has very much attracted artists from outside on account of the special light, the intense colours, and the picturesque motifs, which are dream scenarios for any artist. So many people left their imprints on the city – from Majorelle and Pontoy to – and the city certainly left its imprint on them. Not forgetting the many Moroccan artists which have joined in the past 50-60 years. Moroccan visual art is simply no older than that – the way to express oneself artistically was traditionally through architecture and handicraft. Before ca. 1950 there were no Moroccan visual artists thanks to a misinterpretation regarding what was allowed according to the Quran. It is true that it is not allowed to make an image of or the prophet, but that does not apply to ordinary people or scenarios. When the many foreign artists – primarily French, Spanish, and British – arrived in Marrakesh in order to paint, from the end of the 1800s, it took some time for local artists to follow suit. When they started to paint, it was either naive or classical art, but later French abstract art – e.g. Impressionism – gained great influence, and things began to develop in many directions. If you are interested in art, there are lots of experiences and inspiration to pick up – also in several cultural institutions, which belong in this chapter.

90 91 RIADS & HOTELS

When it comes to accommodation in Marrakesh, I will always recommend choos­ ing a riad in the medina – this is where you will have the most authentic expe­ rience, and you are close to all the historic places and able to walk round while taking in the atmosphere of the city all day. In the section about architecture (see p. 26) you can read a bit about the construction of a riad, which today is the term used for the small guest houses and city hotels.

20-30 years ago, it was not recommendable to stay in the medina as it was consi- dered poor and an undesirable place to live, and many locals sold their old family houses. Fortunately, a lot of foreigners saw the potential of the houses, which were restored and modernised with regard for their original look. Today, around 90 per cent of all riads in the city are owned by foreigners – which perhaps may appear rather sad for the Moroccans, but the new owners have in their own way helped rescue an important cultural heritage.

Of course, you can also stay at a hotel of which there is a multitude in the Hiverna- ge quarter as well as in La Palmeraie (see p. 87), a little out of the city, and many of them are certainly luxurious. Hotels are often the choice of families with children who want a big pool and more facilities.

According to official records, there are around 2,000 riads in the city. They come in all price ranges, and the majority are value for money. Some are large with several rooms, some typically have just 5-6 rooms where you can rent the enti- re riad, if it is a small party. Most places include breakfast, and in others you can order evening meals, which often consist of good home-cooked food. I am going to mention a few riads with which I have been in contact and found interesting, but I emphasize that they are just examples of different types. The list is endless, and I must advice you to google, read reviews, and find the place which you are comfortable with and which fits in with your holiday plans.

In this chapter, you will also find a section on hammam traditions, as well as the recommendation of two professional .

108 109 RESTAURANTS & CAFÉS

Marrakesh is a truly culinary fairy tale. If you are a bit of a connoisseur, you have come to the land of milk and honey – there are so many flavours and combina- tions as well as a cornucopia of eating places to choose from. In the following section, I will present a succession of them for you – from the most popular to the few and far between. Also, keep your eyes open for random street kitchens – for instance, a woman may suddenly appear on a street corner selling soup, which she has prepared at home. Such encounters may turn out to be surprising expe- riences – perhaps even ranging among the best. The established eateries, which I have selected here, are organised according to the city’s quarters to make your planning easier – the spontaneous, too, for when you suddenly find yourself in a new area and fancy something to eat. In between, I describe dishes I myself have eaten to give an idea of what is being served. And, sometimes the story is slightly longer, if there happens to be additional information about the places, or those who are behind them – which counts towards the overall experience.

138 139 SHOPPING & HANDICRAFTS

If you feel even mildly enthusiastic about unique, handmade things such as colour- ful clothes, shiny lamps, soft rugs, beautiful ceramics, and gorgeous leather goods, all of it created with an exquisite sense of aesthetics at favourable prices – well, I have just one piece of advice for you: pack as little as possible from home, as you will definitely need the space in the suitcase, when you have been shopping around Marrakesh.

You can barely walk 10 steps in the city before you meet new and exciting articles and every day of the week the street sellers are chomping at the bit to serve you from early in morning to late at night, maybe with the exception of Friday, when some shops may be closed. First and foremost, there is the souk and other trading streets, as well as small markets in the medina. Then there is the modern area of Gueliz with all kinds of shops, and finally there are larger designer shops round about. In this chapter, I will talk a bit about everything, the goods you can buy, the proud handicraft traditions, and single shops, too, will get a mention along the way.

188 189 FACTS & INFO

The Country Form of Government Languages

Morocco is a part of North Africa, also Morocco is a constitutional, inherited mon- The country has two official languages: Ara- known as the -countries. The coun- archy. The present king, Mohammed VI, be- bic and Berber (Tamazight). Classical Arabic try has around 35m citizens. The capital is longs to the Alawite Dynasty, who have been is only used in official connections while the Rabat, and the country’s four, so-called impe- in power for more than 350 years. The royal Moroccan dialect of Arabic, called Darija, is rial cities are Fez, Marrakesh, , and family has descended from the prophet Mo- used for the spoken language. Everywhere, Rabat. It is Marrakesh which has given name hammed via immigrants from the Arabian French is spoken, English in most places, to the country’s international name, Moroc- Peninsula. The king has palaces in all larger and in several places, Spanish. co, while the Arabic name is Al-Mamlakah­ Moroccan cities, also in Marrakesh, where a al-Maghribiah, ‘The Kingdom towards the large, older palace is situated in the Kasbah A few handy terms in Darija: West’. The country gained its independence towards the Badi Palace and a new one in the Hello: Salaam in 1956. Sidi Mimoun quarter west of Kasbah. Both Welcome: Marhaba palaces can only be viewed from the outside Goodbye: Beslama and at a distance. The king is typically in the Yes: Na’am City & Citizens city 1-2 weeks annually. When that happens, No: La you can see the Moroccan flag flying every- Okay: Wakha Marrakesh is Morocco’s fourth largest town where. Thank you: Choukran after , Rabat, and Fez. The city was founded around 1,000 years ago, the a day: fajr (sunrise), zuhr (midday), asr (af- medina covers more than 700 hectares and ternoon), magrib (sunset), and isha (night). Currency has the largest souk in Morocco. Marrakesh has been included on UNESCO’s World Her- The currency is (MAD/dh), 100 dh itage List since 1985 and is the largest tourist Flag are equivalent to around 10 euro. There are town in the country. There are just short of ATMs all over the city, and it is much better 1m citizens in the city. If you were born, or The Moroccan flag is red, with a green, five- to change currency via your card rather than live, in the city, you are a Marrakchi or Mar- pointed star in the middle called the ‘Seal cash, even though you pay 30 dh/3 euro rakchia. of Solomon’. Green is the colour of Islam per withdrawal. It is expensive to change and symbolises simultaneously love, truth, at the airport, so it may be a good idea to peace, freedom, and justice. The five points have some euro Religion are the : The profession on you for the taxi of faith, prayer, almsgiving, fasting, and pil- (around 15 euro Islam is the official religion of Morocco, and grimage. The flag dates to 1915; before then for the journey to around 98 % of the population are Muslims. it was red all over, the colour of the Alawites, the city). Euro are The rest are mainly Christians and . but when the French found that its manifes- accepted in several Every neighborhood in the city has its tation was a ‘shade’ too ‘communist’, they places. own mosque which calls to prayer five times had the green star added.

206 Magical Marrakesh! Nearly one thousand years of exciting history have left their impressive marks on this exceptional city, full to the brim of colours and patterns, smells and tastes, light and sound, and a very special ambience which emerges in the intersection between beautiful surroundings, a rich culture, hospitality, and an exceedingly generous climate.

With this book in hand, you have every- thing you need to know in order to get the complete experience of the red city, both regarding preparations before leaving and while walking round the narrow streets and alleyways, reading the background stories and bene- fitting from the numerous tips and descriptions, thus mak- ing it easier for you to select what to see and where to eat.

Your Guide to Marrakesh gives you vivid, personal accounts from:

60 cafés & restaurants • 15 historical sights • 10 gardens & parks • 25 museums, cultural centres & galleries • 20 riads, hotels & hammams. As well as history, handicrafts & shopping, souks & markets, architecture & food culture, music & festivals + all the practical info you will need on your journey.

9 788793 867802 www.muusmann-forlag.dk