Book of Tea By 錢 Qian Chunnian 錢椿年 椿 eDiTeD By gu yuanQing 年 顧元慶 茶

ther than that Qian Chunnian (錢椿年) was from 谱 Changshu (常熟), Jiangsu Province (江蘇), not much O information about him has survived.

u Yuanqing (顧元慶, 1487–1565) came from a wealthy merchant family from Jiangsu Province. He G was the only son in the Gu family who liked to read and he collected tens of thousands of books. In the 1540s, he selected the best forty fantasies/short stories from his collec- tion and re-printed them in a work entitled “Novels from Gu’s Study.” About a decade later, he printed another collec- tion, “Gu’s Choice of Forty Writings of the Ming Dynasty,” of which eight of them were written by himself. Notes Preface I am obsessed with drinking tea. In my twenties, I met 1) Wu Xinyuan (吳心遠) was a member of the local gentry. 1 2 Mr. Wu Xinyuan in Yangxian, and Mr. Guo Yangzhuo in 2) Yangxian (陽羨) is modern-day Yixing City (宜興), Jiangsu Qinchuan.3 They both enjoyed drinking tea and taught me Province. all about picking, firing and roasting, as well as the whisking 3) Qinchuan (琴川) is modern-day Changshu City (常熟), Jiangsu of tea, which are all quite simple to understand and difficult Province. to do. After I read the historical accounts of tea from the 4) Yuchuanzi (玉川子) is the sobriquet of the great Chajin poet, Tang and Dynasties, I learned about all the utensils Lu Tong (盧仝, 790–835) who wrote the Ode of Seven Bowls of Tea. for brewing tea and how tea leaves were ground into pow- 5) Bashan (巴山) reaches from modern-day eastern Sichuan der, sieved, and pressed into tea cakes, called “petite dragon (四川) to Yichang City (宜昌), Hubei Province (湖北). cakes,” which are extremely precious. As a result of their val- 6) Originally written by Lu Yu. But aboriginals have always had ue, there was a popular saying that went: “Gold is easier to the means to climb the trees and rarely cut whole branches. come by than a dragon cake.” Alas, how could an official 7) This section is a direct quote from the Tea Sutra by Lu Yu, which afford a dragon cake? Recently, I read what Mr. Qian wrote we translated in the Extended Edition, September 2015. about tea, and his writings were similar to what I’ve learned 8) “Shihua (石花),” literally “stone flower,” came from Mengding from Mr. Wu and Mr. Guo. However, Mr. Qian collected Mountain (蒙頂山), modern-day Yaan City (雅安), Sichuan Prov- many different people’s comments on tea without any colla- ince (四川). tion, and the result was not really a manual for tea lovers, so 9) This tea is called “Zisun (紫笋)” since the tea buds are purplish I edited his writings in my spare time and appended Wang in color and look like bamboo shoots. Guzhu (顧渚) is in mod- Youshi’s bamboo stove and six related accounts at the end to ern-day Changxing County (長興), Zhejiang Province (浙江). 4 share with all Chajin. This is that compendium, written by 10) “Mingyue Tea (明月),” literally means “Bright Moon,” because Gu Yuanqing from Wu County. the tea is half-roasted. As a result, the crescent-shaped, shiny, jade-colored tea leaves recall a full moon. It is a famous tea in Bijian (碧澗), literally “Jade Stream in the Valley,” Yichang City (宜昌), Hubei Province (湖北). Introduction 11) Two famous tea production lines are Huojing (火井, literally Tea is a magnificent tree growing in the South. Tea trees “Fire Well”) and Si’an (思安, literally “Pondering Peace/Stability”) range from one or two feet to tens of feet tall. In Bashan5 from Qiongzhou (邛州), modern-day Qionglai County (邛崍), Sichuan Province (四川). and the river gorges of Sichuan, there are tea trees growing to such a size that it would take two people hand in hand to 12) A rare dark black tea, Bopian (薄片, literally “Thin Slice”) can embrace their circumference. Because these trees are so very be found in Anhua County (安化), Hunan Province (湖南). tall, the branches need to be cut down to harvest the leaves.6 13) Zhenxiang Tea (真香, literally “True Fragrance”) grows in The shape of tea trees resembles those of other Camellia. modern-day Badong County (巴東), Hubei Province (湖北). The leaves look like those of a gardenia and the little white 14) Boyan Tea (柏岩, literally “Cypress Cliff”) grows in flowers are so many lovely rosettes. Tea seeds are like those of modern-day Fuzhou City (福州), Fujian Province (福建). palms with stems like clover, while the root system is similar 15) Bailu Tea (白露, literally “White Dew”) grows in modern-day to that of walnut trees.7 Jiangxi Province (江西). 16) Juyan tea (舉岩, literally “Emerged from the Boulders”) grows in modern day Jinhua City (金華), Zhejiang Province (浙江). It is withered but not rolled, so it appears straight and flat, and the tea Ranking Teas liquor looks a milky, greenish-white. There are many different teas throughout the empire. 17) Yang po Tea (陽坡, literally “Sunny Slope”) grows in Ganzhou For instance, the following are all famous teas: Stone Flower City (贛州), Jiangxi Province (江西). Tea from Mengding Mountain at Jiannan,8 Russet Bamboo 18) Qihuo Tea (騎火, literally “Riding Fire”). During the Spring Tea from Guzhu, Huzhou,9 Bright Moon Tea from Bijian, and Autumn period, Duke Wen of (晉文公, 697–628 BCE) Xiazhou,10 Si’an Tea from Huojing, Qiongzhou,11 Thin Slice was driven out of his fief by civil war, returning after nineteen Tea from Qujiang,12 True Fragrance Tea from Badong,13 Boy- years. Among his strategists, Jie Zhitui (介之推) was most helpful. However, Jie left the palace and returned home. The Duke mis- an Tea from Fuzhou,14 White Dew Tea from Hongzhou,15 16 interpreted this as betrayal and set fire to his neighborhood, kill- Yangxian Tea from Changzhou, Juyan Tea from Wuzhou, ing Jie. Out of remorse, the Duke decreed that no fire was allowed 17 18 19 Yangpo Tea from Yashan, Qihuo Tea from Longan, Tall on the day of Jie Zhitui’s death. To this day, Chinese people eat Duru Tea from Qianyang20 and tea from Na Brook and cold food on this day. The holiday often falls the day before the Plum Peak in Lu River.21 If I had to rank these, then Stone , (清明). Teas that are picked before qingming Flower is the best, Russet Bamboo is second, while Bright are referred to as “qihuo” tea: “before the day when fire is allowed.” Moon is the third. Unfortunately, they are all difficult to 19) Unfortunately, over the long , there have been come by. several places that have been named Longan (龍安). 20) Qianyang (黔陽) is modern-day Hongjiang (洪江), Hunan Cultivating Tea Province (湖南). Treat the tea trees the same as gourds and the tea leaves 21) Lu River (瀘川) is modern-day Lu County (瀘), Sichuan Prov- will be ready to be harvested in three years.22 It is better if ince (四川). tea growing on a cliff faces eastward, while tea trees growing 22) Farmers in the fifteenth century did not harvest tea trees in the forest are best situated in shady sites. As for tea leaves, younger than three years old, so he is most likely referring to wild russet ones are better than green ones. tea trees here.

22 Classics of Tea

Picking Tea Tuanhuang23 is famous for “one flag with two rifles,” big bamboo leaves to wrap the jar up very tightly and boil which means each contains “one bud with two leaves.” the whole ceramic jar in a big pot. Take the leaves out and Leaves that are picked in the morning are true tea, while wait until they are cool to the touch. Then, put them into an those picked later will be bitter. The best time to pick tea envelope and roast them until they are dry. The same pro- leaves is around the solar term guyu. As long as the leaves cedure can be applied to all the flowers mentioned above. are picked when it is sunny, and roasted and stored properly, leaves of all different sizes will make fine tea. Notes Storage It is best to pick tender, young leaves for tea. Tea leaves 23) Tuanhuang (團黃) is tea from modern-day Yingshan County tend to absorb aromas, so try not to store tea with food, any- (英山), Hubei Province (湖北). It was selected as tribute tea start- thing with a strong fragrance, or medicinal herbs. Tea is best ing in the (618–907). stored in a warm and dry environment, rather than cold and humid places. As a result, tea lovers often roast young leaves 24) We think he means paper envelopes here. It is unclear if there 24 sealed in their containers every two or three days. The best is another kind of container. temperature for roasting is about body temperature, so as to maintain the appropriate humidity. If the fire is too strong, 26) This section is a direct quote from Zhu Quan’s work, with then the leaves will be burned and become undrinkable.25 some minor changes.

26) Lianzhi (連紙) is a kind of paper similar to sack kraft paper Various Scented Teas in that it is made with a higher percentage of pulp than normal writing paper. As a result, it is more tear-resistant than most other kinds of paper. Jianlian zhi is the lianzhi made in Fujian Province Orange Tea (福建). Cut orange peels into thin slices and mix with high qual- ity tea at a ratio of one part to five. Place the mixture on tightly woven linen and warm over a fire. Then, cover the warm tea mixture with a clean cotton cloth for four to six hours. Seal the roasted tea in envelopes made of thick, tough 26 paper such as Jianlian, then wrap the envelopes in the cot- Organic Tieguan- ton cloth again to dry before putting them away. yin aged with roses for around fifteen years in the Center. It is quite Lotus Tea wonderful tea! Before sunrise, force open a blossoming lotus bud and pour in a handful of tea. Wrap the petals with some hemp stalks and leave the tea inside of the bud overnight. Pick apart the flower the following morning and pour the tea leaves into a Jianlian paper envelope and roast them dry. Repeat the same procedure several times, until the tea smells fantastic.

Other Flowers Many flowers are good choices for making scented teas, such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), jasmine, rose, all the flowers from the orchid family (Cymbidium), orange blossoms, cape jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides), Lady Bank’s rose (Rosa banksiae) and plum blossoms. When these flow- ers are in season, pick them before they are fully open, and while they are still exuding a strong fragrance. Depending on the amount of tea, estimate the amount of blossoms needed. If there are too many blossoms, the flavor of the tea will be overpowered. On the other hand, if the blossoms are too few, then the fragrance will not come through. Start with a ratio of three parts tea for every one part blossom. Osmanthus flowers need to be prepared by cutting off the stems and sepals, washing off the dust and removing insects. Put one layer of tea under one layer of flowers in a ceramic jar and keep layering them until the jar is full. Use paper and

23/ Qian Chunnian: Tea Manual, Edited by Gu Yuanqing 燒 水 概 要

Four Essentials of Boiling Water for Tea Water If the water is not sweet, then it will diminish the taste of when preparing tea. If the kettle is too big, then it takes too the tea. Therefore, traditionally, water is foremost in making long for the water to boil, and the tea will not taste good. tea. In general, water from a mountain spring is best, river Pots33 and kettles are best made out of silver or tin, while water is second, and well water is the worst. Among waters ceramic ones are second best. found in the mountains, those milky springs that meander When the tea liquor looks pale, then it is best to use are better.27 Do not draw from waterfalls that splash and black-colored bowls. A dark bowl made in Jian’an with dec- crash, running too fast. Drinking too much water from such oration of fine rabbit’s fur lines is the best, because the bowl sources will cause problems in the neck.28 For river water, itself is thick. After the bowls are preheated, the tea will last remote rivers are better than those that are too close to civ- for a longer time. Bowls made in other places are inferior in ilization. On the other hand, wells that are frequented by that they are either thinner or of other colors. people more often are always better.29 Do not use well water to boil tea if it looks cloudy or creamy yellow, like the yel- lowish innards of cooked crabs, or if it tastes bitter or salty.

Rinse the Tea Leaves Before boiling, the tea leaves need to be rinsed with hot Notes water to remove the dust and coolness.30 Then the tea will 27) Some movement is good for spring water; it filters the water taste great. and moves the . Too much movement and the water gets rough. The best is when there is a bio-dynamic, slow movement from one pool to the next. As we have discussed in previous issues, water Boil the Water from the top is always better than that from the bottom. (Try ex- The tea leaves should be roasted over a slow fire while the perimenting with your own water jar.) Therefore, when the wa- water for tea is boiled with a “live flame.” This so-called “live ter moves from pool to pool, it is refined, since the topmost layer flame” is charcoal with a rising, flaming fire that keeps the slowly flows to the next, and so on. 31 water from boiling in vain, so as to culture the tea properly. 28) We think maybe he is referring to thyroid problems, but we In the beginning, water boils like fish eyes, scattering on the aren’t completely sure. surface, and a slight noise starts to rise. Then, more bubbles 29) Stagnant water is not good for tea. The spring water in the emerge from all directions like a fresh spring, followed by a Center starts to lose its vibrancy after around a week. Wells that string of pearls. After that, the water boils violently, like high are frequented would therefore have more movement. tide, and all the vapors start to vanish from the water, which 30) Coolness in Traditional Chinese Medicine terms. is called “old man water.” This “three boil method” can only be achieved with flaming coals. Also, if there is too much 31) As we discussed in our issue on fire in August 2015, the more water for the tea, then a white foam will not form. On the “lively” the coals, the better, as you want to heat the water as other hand, if there is too much tea and not enough water, quickly as possible. then a creamy porridge-like surface will form.32 32) This is not exactly the same as the Zhu edition. So either there is a mis-transcription in the modern Zhu edition, or Gu did not agree with Zhu’s writing on this. Selections 33) The term he uses, a “Chadiao (茶銚),” is a kind of small pot/ The smaller the tea kettle, the shorter the time it takes kettle with a long handle for heating water and a spout to pour hot for the water to boil, and the easier it will be to maneuver water out.

24 Classics of Tea

Three Essentials for Whisking Tea Notes Clean the Utensils The kettles, bowls and spoons get dirty or rust easily and 34) He literally says that the tea color “will not float.” Chinese use will then contaminate the tea, so it is imperative to clean the same expression to refer to something that “stops the color these utensils before each session. from developing fully.” This is not only used in tea; it can also be said about anything. Another meaning of this phrase is that there is not enough contrast between two things to create a pleasant aes- thetic. Preheat the Bowls When making tea, it is important to preheat the bowls. 35) You can experiment with eating one thing while smelling If the bowls are warm, then it is easier to form a white foam another that has a strong aroma. Human beings tend to pick up smell over taste. However, this section seems contradictory at first while whisking. If the bowls are cool, then the color of the 34 glance, because in the previous section on methods of making tea won’t reach its full potential. scented tea, flowers and tea leaves are roasted or scented together. But it should be understood that scented tea is homogeneous af- ter the time-consuming process of fusing the tea and flowers, and Selecting Snacks thus different from eating food with a strong aroma while drink- Tea itself has a true fragrance, fabulous taste, and gor- ing unscented tea. Alas, tea is such a delicate and refined art! geous color. As a result, during whisking, it is not advisable 36) Sometimes, it is not necessarily that the food tastes too strong, to serve any of the followings foods, which have a strong but that the combination of certain foods will create strange fla- aroma of their own. For example, pine nuts, oranges, tanger- vors, as we discussed in our January 2017 issue on food and tea. ines, almonds, lotus seeds, Lady Bank’s roses (Rosa banksiae), 37) There is another vegetable in his list that is unfamiliar to us. plum blossoms, jasmine, rose, and osmanthus tend to over- A modern, popular vegetable with similar characters is tonghao power the aroma of a tea.35 Food with strong flavors, such as (茼蒿, Chrysanthemum coronarium). However, we would say that milk, Saturn (doughnut) peaches, litchi, dragon eyes (long- tonghao is a strong-tasting vegetable and therefore not what the yan), Asian pears and loquats will also impact a tea.36 There- author is referring to. fore, when savoring fine tea, it is imperative not to serve 38) Cangqi (陳藏器) was an official in Chang’an (長安), the snacks like these so as to enjoy the true flavor and aroma of capital of the Tang Dynasty. He was very interested in botany and the tea. As a result, if I do choose to serve delicacies with tea, Chinese medicine, so he wrote A Supplement to Materia Medica I select refined foods such as the following, all of which go (本草拾遺) in the 730s, trying to make the Chinese medicinal well with tea: walnuts, hazelnuts, watermelon seeds, jujube herb bible more comprehensive. seeds, water chestnuts, Indian almonds (Terminalia catappa), 39) “To brighten the eyes” is an old use for tea. In some circum- chestnuts, ginko seeds, Chinese yam (Dioscorea polystachya), stances it may refer to sharpening eyesight, but it usually is a spir- dry bamboo shoots, sesame, lettuce and celery.37 itual reference: in Traditional Chinese Medicine, there are three energies in the body and world: Vitality (Jing, 精), Energy (Qi, 氣) and Spirit (Shen, 神). The Shen is the cosmic energy that connects us to the Heavens. They say that when the Shen descends to the Medicinal functions of tea heart, opening it, our eyes light up. This is why saints are typically According to A Supplement to Materia Medica, written depicted with bright eyes in Chinese art. And most of us here have 38 by Chen Cangqi, “Good tea can quench people’s thirst, experienced such a bowl of tea! help people digest food, dissolve phlegm, reduce the need 39 40) Su Shi (蘇軾, 1037–1101) was a genius in literature, poetry, for sleep, facilitate proper urination, brighten the eyes and calligraphy, painting and cooking, among many other talents. In bring clarity of mind.” According to the most famous liter- his old age, he was exiled to the southernmost island in China 40 ary figure of the Song Dynasty, Su Shi, tea can help you due to his political incorrectness. Traveling to the remote fron- deal with your worries41 and digest heavy food.42 Some peo- tier and trying various exotic produce along the way made him ple cannot live without tea every day, while other people feel unhealthy. Without his usual literary companions, he developed a that they should not drink tea at all due to specific aliments. habit of writing letters to his friends, commenting on whatever he Even so, it is a good idea to gargle with strong tea immedi- was reading or exchanging recipes and medicinal formulae. After ately after each meal to get rid of an undesirable aftertaste in his death, many people published notes on various topics such as literature, food and medicine formulae, claiming Su had written the mouth. Since the tea is spit out after that, the stomach them. Notes from Chouchi (仇池筆記) is one such collection. and spleen are not affected. In addition, any residual food stuck between teeth will eventually loosen and fall out af- 41) “Fan (煩)” usually refers to defilement, worries, problems or ter several such gargles. Without the need to keep picking things that bother people. In other words, it tends to refer to men- tal rather than physical aliments. There is also a formula in Tra- at whatever is stuck between teeth, and therefore harming ditional Chinese Medicine called “Eight Ingredients for Ridding the teeth, food between the teeth will disappear before you Oneself of Worries (八味除煩湯)” that helps patients with insom- know it. As a result, the teeth will suffer less from picking nia, anxiety and/or irritability to calm down. However, in the fol- and be healthier. Since the tea is not for drinking, rather lowing sentence, the author says that “using strong tea to gargle only for gargling, medium- or low-quality tea will suffice after each meal can eliminate the “taste of fan (煩味),” which in for this.43 that instance might mean undesirable aftertastes in the mouth. 42) Both of these can be taken literally or as spiritual metaphors, once again marrying the sacred and mundane through tea. 43) You have to love this passage!

25/ Qian Chunnian: Tea Manual, Edited by Gu Yuanqing Appendix 明 盛颙 Inscription for the Gentleman of 苦節君銘 44 45 Principle by Sheng Yong from Xishan 肖形天地 Shaped like the vault of Heaven and the square of Earth:46 匪冶匪陶 Bamboo sheathed metal, bamboo wrapped clay. 心存活火 Within, a lively fire burns, 聲帶湘濤 Bearing sounds of waves on the river Xiang. One drop of sweet dew 一滴甘露 Cleanses my poetic core. 滌我詩腸 A pure wind sweeps beneath my sleeves, Carrying me beyond the realm and into the Void.47 清風兩腋 —Translated by Steven Owyoung 洞然八荒

The Six Departments48 of tea utensils are now established, and all the implements are stored within it, supporting the Gentleman of Principle in preparing tea amidst springs and rocks, mountains, studios and pavilions. The Gentleman of Principle is fervent in all things, so he is granted the title of state governor.49 According to the ten parts of the Tea Sutra— namely, Origins, Implements, Processing, Utensils, Brewing, Drinking, Records, Production, Omissions, and Tenets—of the utensils in Part Four, there are none that may be eliminated. The lack of any utensil signifies the neglect of the other nine parts, and the tea is thus wholly ruined. Even though the utensils are listed in the fourth section, they are essential in brewing tea as well. If any of the utensils are missing, then the rest of the nine parts are useless, and no tea can be prepared. The design of the Six Departments and of each utensil is genius, so that all the utensils for tea can be placed in one container for easy storage. In addition, use the spring water from Hui Mountain and the tea from Yangxian—otherwise, alas, ruination! As for Master Lu’s utensil case, this he fully described in the Tea Sutra: weave it using the hard glossy skin of Xiang bamboo. Since a printing of it is attached, I will not spend much time describing its appearance. —Dated to the Grain Rain Days of the third month, 1500. Written by Sheng Yu, Tea Immortal of Mount Hui

The Six Divisions Are as Follows: Notes First, the Jian Town Since tea leaves should be sealed tightly, they are stored 44) “Kujiejun (苦節君),” literally means “the lofty gentleman who inside a bamboo container. It should be stored as high as endures a lot of hardship.” The character for a bamboo “joint possible to avoid humidity, which would diminish its flavor. (節)” is the same character as that for “integrity.” Therefore, Sheng Ancient people roasted tea leaves with fire regularly to keep puns here, lauding the bamboo stove for being a “person of integ- rity” and for working hard under terrible circumstances, yet never them at body temperature as often as possible, so the tea complaining. leaves do not dry out. Nowadays, the storage container is 45) Sheng Yong (盛顒, 1418–1492) was from modern-day Wuxi referred to as “Jian Town.” City (無錫), Jiangsu Province (江蘇). Gu’s note: According to Record of Tea by Cai Xiang,50 a group of people enjoyed tea so much that they built a cit- 46) Its bottom bamboo rack is square and the soft cushion that the kettle sits on is round. The ancient Chinese believed that Heaven adel to enclose all the nice tee treas and named the “town” is round while the Earth is square. Jian’an.51 47) Since the furnace is made out of latticed bamboo strips, air can pass through the entire object, which marries the sacred and mundane. Second, the Yuntun52 When gathering spring water, it is best to draw it from 48) The Central Secretariat (中書省) was the leader of all six divi- sions that governed China during the Ming Dynasty. the source, where the spring is at its purest and cleanest. In order to maintain its fragrance, it is best to take some 49) Actually, Sheng himself was a state governor. So he might be pebbles and store them in a jar along with the spring water comparing himself to the object that is steadfast with upright until it is brewed with tea. If the spring water gets flat, then principles and is hard-working. the tea will not reach its full potential. Previous generations 50) Cai Xiang (蔡襄, 1012–1067) wrote the Record of Tea (茶錄) commented that spring water from Hui Mountain is the around 1048–1051. best. Nowadays, it has been renamed as “ ,” which Yuntun 51) Jian’an (建安) could be near Jian’ou City (建甌) in Fujian Prov- means “aggregate of clouds.” The “cloud” here refers to ince (福建). the spring water, which can be stored in this vessel.53 Even though one works with other petty officials in the mundane 52) “Yuntun (雲屯),” literally means “aggregate of clouds.” world, if one can rest amongst the clouds of clean spring 53) This sentence distinguishes “cloud aggregate” as the vessel water, then one is lofty and has risen out of the quotidian for storing spring water for tea, as opposed to the location of the world in one’s heart. spring.

26 Classics of Tea

Third, the Dark Mansion: Coal Basket54 Sixth, the Taste and Aroma Inspector75 Coal is an object that looks pitch dark and is strong and In the olden times, tea farmers added a trace amount of tough in nature. When it encounters fire, it can create a fe- borneol during the process to make some tribute tea cakes rocious flame. Whatever touches it will be harmed by it, and smell stronger. In spite of their intention to enhance the whatever violates it will be burned. It is not unlike an official fragrance, the original flavor of the tea was actually lost in from the Justice Department who can intimidate crooks and doing so. Furthermore, once such flavored tea is brewed, the criminals, even from afar. The gentleman of principle be- artificial flavor will stain the cauldrons and tea bowls. Other comes even more powerful with its help. Furthermore, it is people added food such as jujubes,76 oranges, green onions, also known as “dark silver,” which reveals its treasure within and ginger while whisking, which is even worse. Nowadays, only to those who know its ways. Therefore, it is suitable to the tea produced in Yangxian is highly valued by tea lov- call it the “dark mansion.” ers. In addition, the brewing method most practiced is in Zhaozhou’s tradition.77 In that tradition, the tea is brewed light and goes well with bland food, such as bamboo, Indi- Fourth, the Magistrate of Water: an almonds (Terminalia catappa), watermelon seeds, celery Water Container55 or other bland greens. Therefore, the God of Xiang River78 The true flavor of tea lies in the leaves and buds, and is in charge of setting up an inspector to screen off those can only be developed after they are rinsed with water. Af- strong-flavored foods. ter immersing the tea leaves in water, more spring water is added. When the water starts to hum and buzz, then a nice fragrance arises from the cauldron. Eventually, all the gen- tleman’s entourage becomes dirty after use. Therefore, it is very important to use water to clean all of the utensils. I’ve named this utensil “Magistrate of Water” because gentlemen clean themselves with water in dishes, and filth is thereby 茶道 cleansed away. The body is then uncontaminated again. In other words, the water container helps the gentleman to start every day with a fresh, clean slate. Is this not a good moral for people?56

Fifth, the Department of Utensils57

Shangxian58 is the ancient name for a stone ding, the three-legged cauldron for cooking. Guijie59 is the bamboo brush that cleans the pots. Fenying60 is the spoon, which Master Lu Yu called “shuize.” In general, for every two sheng of water, one Charcoal basket and wa- liang of tea is used.61 ter container illustrations Dihuo is the bronze spoon that scoops the coals and from another Ming Dynasty moves them around.62 author, Mao Yixiang’s work Jianghong are the bronze fire tongs.63 “Tea Utensils with Illustra- Zhiquan is the scale for tea.64 Every one liang of tea leaves tions.” requires two sheng of water. Tuanfeng is the green bamboo fan.65 Luchen is for washing the tea bowl.66 Jingfei is the bamboo frame, which the Tea Sutra refers as “zhifu.”67 Zhuchun is the ceramic kettle.68 Yunfeng is the knife to cut fruit with.69 Gandun is the wooden cutting board.70 Chuoxiang are tea cups from Fujian Province.71 Liaoyun is the bamboo tea spoon.72 Najing is the bamboo tea holder.73 Shouwu is the tea cloth for wiping up.74

These are the sixteen utensils in brewing tea that are stored together, so as to serve the gentleman with principle. Therefore, they are all given a title for better management, for they all exhibit inherent virtues, elegance, and discipline, which is why they can work together under the proper and noble leadership of the tea brewer.

27/ Qian Chunnian: Tea Manual, Edited by Gu Yuanqing Postscript Gu Yuanqing also goes by his style name, Dashi Shanren, the boulder man from the mountain. No one knows where he is from. I only know that he was a long-time friend of my fellow townsman, Wang Tianyu.79 Wang is an erudite who enjoys ancient affairs, and his friends are mostly local esquires. In his old age, Wang grew tired of living in the city and moved to the shady side of Mount Ming. He only socializes with Gu Yuanqing and Yue Dai during the day. Yue is a hermit from Suzhou whose sobriquet is Zhangyu. He is a fine painter and his calligraphy is almost as good as the great calligrapher Mi Fu (1051–1107).80 Among this circle, I have met two out of the three, so I can infer the personality of the other one. I read his Tea Manual today and it is certain that he must have indulged himself in books throughout his life to be able to write anything even remotely of the caliber of this manual. As a result, I can also picture who he was from his books. I so enjoy leaving this manual on my desk for all my guests to enjoy. —Written by Mao Yixiang from Guaian81

Notes

54) “Wufu (烏府)” literally means “dark mansion.” 69) “Yunfeng (運鋒)” literally means “to maneuver the blade.” 55) The second character of “shuicao (水槽)” is a homophone of 70) “Gandun (甘鈍)” literally means “sweet and dull.” “ (曹),” which could be a last name, or a suffix to denote gen- 71) “Chuoxiang (啜香)” literally means “to sip fragrance.” eral officials in cities and counties. In this case, “water container (水槽),” is then the officer who is in charge of the water affairs of 72) “Liaoyun (撩雲)” literally means “to touch the clouds lightly.” the city or county (水曹). 73) “Najing (敬納)” literally means “present to you respectfully.” 56) The author is referencing more than just keeping one’s body 74) “Shouwu (受汙)” literally means “to receive filth.” clean, but also purifying the spirit and starting each day fresh, without the negativities of the past. As Wu De often says, “Cha 75) “Pinsi (品司)” literally means “the inspector who tastes.” Dao is eighty percent cleaning, inside and out!” 76) This could be dates or jujubes. 57) “Qiju (器局)” literally means the “department of utensils.” 77) Zhaozhou (趙州, 778–897) was a Zen master who, like most 58) “Shangxiang (商象)” literally means “Elephant of the Shang such masters, often used noverbal expressions to point at Zen- Dynasty” (1675 BCE–1046 BCE). Some of the ding (鼎) from the mind. One of his teachings is in Wu De’s book Zen & Tea One Shang Dynasty were decorated with elephants. Therefore, some Flavor. people refer to the ding as “shangxiang.” 78) The “God of Xiang River (湘君)” is a mythical god who gov- 59) “Guijie (歸潔)”literally means “to become clean again.” erns the Xiang River in Hunan Province, according to a collec- tion of Shamanic rituals written by (屈原, 340 BCE– 60) “Fenying (分盈)” literally means “to divide what was original- 278 BCE). We don’t know what this god has to do with guarding ly full.” tea from these foods, however, as the reference is either mystical, 61) One sheng (升) is equal to 1.035 liter. One liang (兩) is equal colloquial or just beyond us. to 37 grams or 1.3 oz. 79) Wang Tianyu (王天雨), whose official name is “Ji (濟) .” 62) “Dihuo (遞火)” literally means “to pass the fire around.” 80) Mi Fu (米芾, 1051–1107) was one of the most famous painters 63) “Jianghong (降紅)” literally means “descending red.” and calligraphers of the Song Dynasty (960–1279). He developed a painting style not unlike the impressionists in that the entirety 64) “Zhiquan (執權)” literally means “to exercise authority.” of each painting is comprised of dots varying in size. The only 65) “Tuanfeng (團風)” literally means “round wind.” difference is that Mi painted in monochrome ink. A true artist of heart and mind, he could not abide by all the pretentious hypoc- 66) “Luchen (漉塵)” literally means “dripping off the dust.” risy and bureaucratic nonsense of the city and was, therefore, only 67) “Jingfei (靜沸)” literally means “boils quietly.” “Zhifu (支腹)” appointed to a low-ranking title as a result of his “uncivilized” be- literally means “supporting the belly.” However, this utensil is not havior, which the intelligent, and posterity, recognize as ingenuity. called by this name in the modern version of the Tea Sutra, which 81) Mao Yixiang (茅一相) was from Wuxing City (吳興), Zhe- we used to make our translation for the Extended Edition of Sep- jiang Province (浙江). He was a contemporary of Gu Yuanqing. tember 2015, and may therefore have another name as well. Mao is the author of Tea Utensils with Illustrations (Chaju Tuzan, 68) “Zhuchun (注春)” literally means “to pour in springtime.” 茶具圖讚).

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