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Book of Tea by 錢 Qian Chunnian 錢椿年 椿 Edited by Gu Yuanqing 年 顧元慶 茶

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Book of Tea by 錢 Qian Chunnian 錢椿年 椿 Edited by Gu Yuanqing 年 顧元慶 茶 BOOK OF TEA BY 錢 QIAN CHUNNIAN 錢椿年 椿 EDITED BY GU YUANQING 年 顧元慶 茶 ther than that Qian Chunnian (錢椿年) was from 谱 Changshu (常熟), Jiangsu Province (江蘇), not much O information about him has survived. u Yuanqing (顧元慶, 1487–1565) came from a wealthy merchant family from Jiangsu Province. He G was the only son in the Gu family who liked to read and he collected tens of thousands of books. In the 1540s, he selected the best forty fantasies/short stories from his collec- tion and re-printed them in a work entitled “Novels from Gu’s Study.” About a decade later, he printed another collec- tion, “Gu’s Choice of Forty Writings of the Ming Dynasty,” of which eight of them were written by himself. Notes Preface I am obsessed with drinking tea. In my twenties, I met 1) Wu Xinyuan (吳心遠) was a member of the local gentry. 1 2 Mr. Wu Xinyuan in Yangxian, and Mr. Guo Yangzhuo in 2) Yangxian (陽羨) is modern-day Yixing City (宜興), Jiangsu Qinchuan.3 They both enjoyed drinking tea and taught me Province. all about picking, firing and roasting, as well as the whisking 3) Qinchuan (琴川) is modern-day Changshu City (常熟), Jiangsu of tea, which are all quite simple to understand and difficult Province. to do. After I read the historical accounts of tea from the 4) Yuchuanzi (玉川子) is the sobriquet of the great Chajin poet, Tang and Song Dynasties, I learned about all the utensils Lu Tong (盧仝, 790–835) who wrote the Ode of Seven Bowls of Tea. for brewing tea and how tea leaves were ground into pow- 5) Bashan (巴山) reaches from modern-day eastern Sichuan der, sieved, and pressed into tea cakes, called “petite dragon (四川) to Yichang City (宜昌), Hubei Province (湖北). cakes,” which are extremely precious. As a result of their val- 6) Originally written by Lu Yu. But aboriginals have always had ue, there was a popular saying that went: “Gold is easier to the means to climb the trees and rarely cut whole branches. come by than a dragon cake.” Alas, how could an official 7) This section is a direct quote from the Tea Sutra by Lu Yu, which afford a dragon cake? Recently, I read what Mr. Qian wrote we translated in the Extended Edition, September 2015. about tea, and his writings were similar to what I’ve learned 8) “Shihua (石花),” literally “stone flower,” came from Mengding from Mr. Wu and Mr. Guo. However, Mr. Qian collected Mountain (蒙頂山), modern-day Yaan City (雅安), Sichuan Prov- many different people’s comments on tea without any colla- ince (四川). tion, and the result was not really a manual for tea lovers, so 9) This tea is called “Zisun (紫笋)” since the tea buds are purplish I edited his writings in my spare time and appended Wang in color and look like bamboo shoots. Guzhu (顧渚) is in mod- Youshi’s bamboo stove and six related accounts at the end to ern-day Changxing County (長興), Zhejiang Province (浙江). 4 share with all Chajin. This is that compendium, written by 10) “Mingyue Tea (明月),” literally means “Bright Moon,” because Gu Yuanqing from Wu County. the tea is half-roasted. As a result, the crescent-shaped, shiny, jade-colored tea leaves recall a full moon. It is a famous tea in Bijian (碧澗), literally “Jade Stream in the Valley,” Yichang City (宜昌), Hubei Province (湖北). Introduction 11) Two famous tea production lines are Huojing (火井, literally Tea is a magnificent tree growing in the South. Tea trees “Fire Well”) and Si’an (思安, literally “Pondering Peace/Stability”) range from one or two feet to tens of feet tall. In Bashan5 from Qiongzhou (邛州), modern-day Qionglai County (邛崍), Sichuan Province (四川). and the river gorges of Sichuan, there are tea trees growing to such a size that it would take two people hand in hand to 12) A rare dark black tea, Bopian (薄片, literally “Thin Slice”) can embrace their circumference. Because these trees are so very be found in Anhua County (安化), Hunan Province (湖南). tall, the branches need to be cut down to harvest the leaves.6 13) Zhenxiang Tea (真香, literally “True Fragrance”) grows in The shape of tea trees resembles those of other Camellia. modern-day Badong County (巴東), Hubei Province (湖北). The leaves look like those of a gardenia and the little white 14) Boyan Tea (柏岩, literally “Cypress Cliff”) grows in flowers are so many lovely rosettes. Tea seeds are like those of modern-day Fuzhou City (福州), Fujian Province (福建). palms with stems like clover, while the root system is similar 15) Bailu Tea (白露, literally “White Dew”) grows in modern-day to that of walnut trees.7 Jiangxi Province (江西). 16) Juyan tea (舉岩, literally “Emerged from the Boulders”) grows in modern day Jinhua City (金華), Zhejiang Province (浙江). It is withered but not rolled, so it appears straight and flat, and the tea Ranking Teas liquor looks a milky, greenish-white. There are many different teas throughout the empire. 17) Yang po Tea (陽坡, literally “Sunny Slope”) grows in Ganzhou For instance, the following are all famous teas: Stone Flower City (贛州), Jiangxi Province (江西). Tea from Mengding Mountain at Jiannan,8 Russet Bamboo 18) Qihuo Tea (騎火, literally “Riding Fire”). During the Spring Tea from Guzhu, Huzhou,9 Bright Moon Tea from Bijian, and Autumn period, Duke Wen of Jin (晉文公, 697–628 BCE) Xiazhou,10 Si’an Tea from Huojing, Qiongzhou,11 Thin Slice was driven out of his fief by civil war, returning after nineteen Tea from Qujiang,12 True Fragrance Tea from Badong,13 Boy- years. Among his strategists, Jie Zhitui (介之推) was most helpful. However, Jie left the palace and returned home. The Duke mis- an Tea from Fuzhou,14 White Dew Tea from Hongzhou,15 16 interpreted this as betrayal and set fire to his neighborhood, kill- Yangxian Tea from Changzhou, Juyan Tea from Wuzhou, ing Jie. Out of remorse, the Duke decreed that no fire was allowed 17 18 19 Yangpo Tea from Yashan, Qihuo Tea from Longan, Tall on the day of Jie Zhitui’s death. To this day, Chinese people eat Duru Tea from Qianyang20 and tea from Na Brook and cold food on this day. The holiday often falls the day before the Plum Peak in Lu River.21 If I had to rank these, then Stone solar term, qingming (清明). Teas that are picked before qingming Flower is the best, Russet Bamboo is second, while Bright are referred to as “qihuo” tea: “before the day when fire is allowed.” Moon is the third. Unfortunately, they are all difficult to 19) Unfortunately, over the long history of China, there have been come by. several places that have been named Longan (龍安). 20) Qianyang (黔陽) is modern-day Hongjiang (洪江), Hunan Cultivating Tea Province (湖南). Treat the tea trees the same as gourds and the tea leaves 21) Lu River (瀘川) is modern-day Lu County (瀘), Sichuan Prov- will be ready to be harvested in three years.22 It is better if ince (四川). tea growing on a cliff faces eastward, while tea trees growing 22) Farmers in the fifteenth century did not harvest tea trees in the forest are best situated in shady sites. As for tea leaves, younger than three years old, so he is most likely referring to wild russet ones are better than green ones. tea trees here. 22 Classics of Tea Picking Tea Tuanhuang23 is famous for “one flag with two rifles,” big bamboo leaves to wrap the jar up very tightly and boil which means each contains “one bud with two leaves.” the whole ceramic jar in a big pot. Take the leaves out and Leaves that are picked in the morning are true tea, while wait until they are cool to the touch. Then, put them into an those picked later will be bitter. The best time to pick tea envelope and roast them until they are dry. The same pro- leaves is around the solar term guyu. As long as the leaves cedure can be applied to all the flowers mentioned above. are picked when it is sunny, and roasted and stored properly, leaves of all different sizes will make fine tea. Notes Storage It is best to pick tender, young leaves for tea. Tea leaves 23) Tuanhuang (團黃) is tea from modern-day Yingshan County tend to absorb aromas, so try not to store tea with food, any- (英山), Hubei Province (湖北). It was selected as tribute tea start- thing with a strong fragrance, or medicinal herbs. Tea is best ing in the Tang Dynasty (618–907). stored in a warm and dry environment, rather than cold and humid places. As a result, tea lovers often roast young leaves 24) We think he means paper envelopes here. It is unclear if there 24 sealed in their containers every two or three days. The best is another kind of container. temperature for roasting is about body temperature, so as to maintain the appropriate humidity. If the fire is too strong, 26) This section is a direct quote from Zhu Quan’s work, with then the leaves will be burned and become undrinkable.25 some minor changes. 26) Lianzhi (連紙) is a kind of paper similar to sack kraft paper Various Scented Teas in that it is made with a higher percentage of pulp than normal writing paper. As a result, it is more tear-resistant than most other kinds of paper.
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