The Blue Album G-Star Store Brussels Rue Antoine Dansaert 48

Volume 04 — Issue 04

Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

Neighbourhood Up in smoke Life Deep waters Style Doing denim Music Out of the blue Culture Memoirs of melancholy + The Design Special

The blue album G-Star Store Brussels Rue Antoine Dansaert 48

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11214177 The Word BE 420x295 VB DPS.indd 1 8/16/11 2:28 PM 4 The editor's letter

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Publisher and editor-in-chief There was a point in the production phase of this edition where we Nicholas Lewis tinkered with the idea of interviewing Portishead for our music section. The band were just about to curate ATP’s I’ll Be Your Mirror festi- Design val in London and, as is the case with most summer revival projects facetofacedesign + (Pavement and Faith No More anyone?), the band kept popping up on pleaseletmedesign our radar for all the good reasons.

Writers For starters, memories poured in the minute the Bristol threesome’s Guy Dittrich debut album Dummy was loaded into the player. Olivia’s house parties Rose Kelleher in Tervueren / Tervuren, teenage benders in Julie’s flat in Schaerbeek Nicholas Lewis and mix tapes that, at the time, went from Portishead and Mudhoney Philippe Pourhashemi to Rancid and The Fugees. The album was lodged in my collective Sam Steverlynck conscience of the blue, next to Massive Attack’s Blue Lines, Kool Robbert van Jaarsveld Keith’s Sex Styles, Del’s I Wish My Brother George Was Here and St Randa Wazen Germain’s Boulevard (yes, really). Indeed, Dummy’s cover art was also predominantly blue – both its front and back covers were exercises Photographers/Illustrators in colour-coded restraint, giving you just the information you needed Sarah Eechaut whilst still leaving lots to the imagination. Above all, going through Yana Foqué Dummy’s tracklist all over again was heart-warming and bizarrely Veerle Frissen reassuring. Like seeing that childhood friend of yours for the first time Ismaël Moumin in ages and staying up all night reminiscing about your first fag, your Melika Ngombe first flunk and your first fight. Memories. Some are good. Some are bad. Yassin Serghini Some are easy, others painful. Some you’d rather erase, some you’d Siska Vandecasteele prefer engraving on your arm. Virassamy Joke De Wilde And so it is with our blue album. It’ll wrap you in a blanket of nostalgic warmth, cosy up to you and bring a smile (sometimes a tear) to your Interns face. It’ll remind you of your teenage bedroom. Of that passion you Kathy Boros (communication) used to entertain for aquariums. Of that time you actually knew the Alex Chavot (graphic design) name of your neighbourhood cop. It’ll make you want to dig out those Joke De Wilde (photography) old VHS tapes of yours. It might even make you rollout the Rizzlas (blue, of course) and spark one up – just for old times sakes. For subscriptions (5 issues) Transfer ¤ 21 (Belgium), Add to that our design special, and its round-up on vintage design ¤ 30 (Europe) or ¤ 45 online galleries, and you could say we’ve been living in the past for the (Worldwide) last few months. We promise our next edition, the white album, will to account n° 363-0257432-34 see us return to our old selves though. But, just this once, it’s all about IBAN BE 68 3630 2574 3234 yesteryear. BIC BBRUBEBB stating your full name, email and postal addresses The blue album. A mirror vision of our past. in the communication box.

Visit us Nicholas Lewis thewordmagazine.be Like us facebook.com/TheWordMagazine Follow us @TheWordMgz Download us thewordmagazine.be/ipad

The Word is published five times a year by JamPublishing, 107 Rue Général Henry Straat 1040 Brussels Belgium. Reproduction, in whole or in part, without prior permission is strictly prohibited. All information correct up to the time of going to press. The publishers cannot be held liable for any changes in On this cover this respect after this date. © Veerle Frissen King fish

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sAd_Rado_Singlepage_JS_SNPSHT4863.indd 1 10.08.2011 15:56:37 6 The contents

Neighbourhood Style The DESIGN Special

21 38 69

Le caillou bleu Meeting Dries Van Noten La Fabrika

22 46 74

Photographer Julie Calbert’s blue notes Giving in to temptation Open doors policy

26 50 78

G. Van den Berghe’s very own little avatar She’s the one wearing the pants Online design galleries

Life Music Culture

30 62 84

Teenage territories Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs Pictures speak louder than words

34 63 86 IT’S yOURTURN

HUGO JUST DIFFERENT The big blue Ghostpoet If only the walls could talk… THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR MEN

hugo.com shop online hugoboss.com FEATURING JARED LETO hugo.com shop online hugoboss.com

IT HUGO JUST DIFFERENT THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR MEN

’ S FEATURING JARED LETO y OUR

TURN

8 The contributors

It’s a Word’s world

Sébastien Lenouvel Joke De Wilde Yana Foqué Ismaël Moumin graphic design and illustrator photography intern photographer photographer

A FILMMAKER

Page Page Pages Pages 28 70 62, 63, 85 46, 47, 48, 49 © Persuado About About About About Current intern of our graphic Joke joined the team in May, Antwerp-based freelance photo- It only takes a quick look at his design team, we were told that eager to get to grips with the grapher Yana first popped up on blog roll to realise that Ismaël Sebastien possessed quite visual side of magazine-making. our radar with her cutesy and Moumin’s a rising star. Current the talent as far as ball pen She quickly settled in, getting intimate handwritten interviews first assistant to that other grand illustrations went. Having into the thick of it by her second in Q&A form she’d taken the daddy of Belgian fashion photo- is all it takes to win up to €15,000 contributed to the visual identity week, assisting photographers on habit of doing with certain artists graphy Pierre Debusschere, of the Micro Festival and other hastily put together productions (Twin Shadow, Efterklang, we first worked with Ismaël for 200 seconds worth of Nikon film equipment small-scale, but nonetheless and scouring the city for fake No Age and the likes) and which our March edition’s fashion prestigious projects, Sebastien wallpapers. Testament to the we published online. She has special, getting him to capture seemed like the right talent quality of her work, one of her since moved on to the magazine a selection of items in the most Nikon’s ‘I AM A FILMMAKER’ competition is for short films up to 200 seconds to turn to for our comical portraits even ended up on itself, this edition marking the suggestive and playful of ways. long. The competition is open to everyone, from students, pro and semi-pro illustrative page, the study. the cover of our yellow album. first time you’ll see her name in Then and there, we knew we’d be Interns – we don’t just ask them the masthead. working with him again in the filmmakers to advanced enthusiasts. Task to make coffee for us. near future. For the study, we commissioned Task Your entry will be judged by a professional jury So if you please both the jury and the public, you Sebastien to pen a parody of Task This edition saw Yana trek it Task the many proposals to purchase Living in Antwerp and having from north to south in less than The kind of photographer to which includes Jan Verheyen, Jaco Van Dor- could win equipment worth €15,000 ! Viagra we get in our inboxes a knack for portraiture, two hours to interview Totally enjoy a close complicity with the mael, Valérie Pierre, Rob Rombouts, Mark De The competition is open until August 31st 2011, everyday. Viagra pills being we commissioned Joke to Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs at girls he photographs, we knew blue, what better starting point photograph Veerle Wenes, Dour, chase Connan Mockassin a feature on tight-fitting hot Visscher, Jo Vermaercke and representatives full details about it at www.nikonfilmfestival.be, for a colour-coded piss-take? founder of design gallery for a throw-away exchange and pants would be ideal for Ismaël. from Brussels Short Film Festival and Gent which is also where you can upload your film Valerie Traan. photograph this month’s book He took two up and coming Quote selection for us. models to Tervueren / Tervuren’s International Film Festival and with the support and ask people to vote for it. The competition “In this edition, I wanted to Quote Arboretum, and simply did from Scam-Sofam. There are two prizes to be is being held in collaboration with the Brussels show the absurdity of advertising “‘Into the wide blue yonder.’ Quote his thing for a couple of hours. touting the merits of a product I was looking for blue sayings “I enjoy Sci-fi novels a lot – they We couldn’t have hoped won. The jury prize is €10,000 worth of Nikon Short Film Festival and the Gent International that makes a man ‘effective’ and to combine with my pictures put the future of the past on for better. film equipment and the prize for the most public Film Festival. A selection of entries will be shown ‘sustainable’ and play with the and I found this one. I liked it. display. A good dose of nostalgia difference between this image It means : if you go into the wide is what keeps you young. And Quote votes is €5,000 worth of Nikon film equipment. during the Gent Film Festival. and the evocative real danger of blue yonder, you go somewhere I still make a list of things to do “Don’t really know what to say the product.” far away that seems exciting during the summer at the very about the shoot ! It’s hard. because it is not known.” end of it.” First shoot without Françoise Salinger… That’s all NIKON I can say really!” FILMFESTIVAL www.nikonfilmfestival.be BELGIUM ismaelmoumimn.blogspot.com

NIKON_CM_WORD_210x295.indd 1 09-05-2011 17:10:48 A FILMMAKER © Persuado

is all it takes to win up to €15,000 200 seconds worth of Nikon film equipment Nikon’s ‘I AM A FILMMAKER’ competition is for short films up to 200 seconds long. The competition is open to everyone, from students, pro and semi-pro filmmakers to advanced enthusiasts.

Your entry will be judged by a professional jury So if you please both the jury and the public, you which includes Jan Verheyen, Jaco Van Dor- could win equipment worth €15,000 ! mael, Valérie Pierre, Rob Rombouts, Mark De The competition is open until August 31st 2011, Visscher, Jo Vermaercke and representatives full details about it at www.nikonfilmfestival.be, from Brussels Short Film Festival and Gent which is also where you can upload your film International Film Festival and with the support and ask people to vote for it. The competition from Scam-Sofam. There are two prizes to be is being held in collaboration with the Brussels won. The jury prize is €10,000 worth of Nikon Short Film Festival and the Gent International film equipment and the prize for the most public Film Festival. A selection of entries will be shown votes is €5,000 worth of Nikon film equipment. during the Gent Film Festival.

NIKON FILMFESTIVAL www.nikonfilmfestival.be BELGIUM

NIKON_CM_WORD_210x295.indd 1 09-05-2011 17:10:48 10 The blueboard Exhibitions Arts Music Shows Parties

01 02

08 09

01. A 2007 edition of Exit magazine, one of the references we used when launching The Word. / 02. Terra blues crisps, made from natural blue potatoes and Bubbllicious bubblegum, blowing bubbles since 1977. / 03. Nirvana’s Nevermind and Pantera’ Far Beyond Driven. 90’s teenage angst at its best. / 04. Papermate’s flexigrip ultra pens. A trusted companion in hours upon hours of proofreading. / 05. The Word’s hoodies and polo’s, soon available to purchase online. / 06. Pairing a pair of Nike’s limited edition blue air max and a Balenciaga cashmere sweater. Mix and match to the fullest. / 07. Spa Reine still water, Belgium’s best export. / 08. The Fafi-designed POP up, a scented candle which comes with a diamond designed by the street artist herself. We love it for its intricately thought through packaging. And it’s blue. Available from Hunting and Collecting in Brussels. / 09. Blutak. Way better than drawing pins. Neighbourhood 11

Belgium ( 01  10 )

01. What a joke 03. The art of storytelling 01. We all know Richard Prince for his Jokes, Hailed as one of the most promising Nurses, Cowboys and Girlfriends series, young artists in Belgium, Rinus Van de as well as for his heavy use of rephotography. Velde’s charcoal drawings accompanied by A member of the influential Pictures Gene- witty texts relating to separate moments in ration, the American artist had a strong hand his semi-fictional biography have caught in expanding the scope of conceptual photo- the eye of the international art intelligentsia graphy through the use of appropriation. around the globe. His most recent exhibition This first solo show at Brussels’ Almine Rech will see him present a new series of draw- Gallery gives the audience the perfect occasion ings that circle around the theme of the artist to explore Prince's fascination with American studio. These drawings will tell stories that culture, Borscht Belt jokes, car enthusiasm, are to a certain extent autonomous and can pulp-literature and his unmatchable knack for be read individually from each other, leaving elevating material directly sourced from the it up to the viewer to be directly challenged underbelly of society to the status of fine art. to imagine the larger story Van de Velde is aiming to share. Richard Prince : The Fug  From 10th September to 5th November Rinus Van de Velde  Almine Rech Gallery, Brussels  From 8th September to 22nd October  alminerech.com  Tim Van Laere Gallery, Antwerp  timvanlaeregallery.com Courtesy Almine Rech Gallery, Brussels-Paris * 02. The auction to go to 04. Something old, something new, something borrowed and Second Hand Second Life something blue @ Tour & Taxis (Brussels), on 14th October By combining traditional analogue pho- – Acclaimed Belgian designers tography with digital editing, Florian Maier- will once more present one of a kind Aichen has managed to create a language of creations made from second hand goods his own and redefine the concept of landscape for the 9th edition of the now famous imagery. Abstract, unsettling and at times

Petits Riens / Spullenhulp fashion show, surreal, his pictures contain a poetic nature. © Roland Schmid. Courtesy the Estate Stanislawski Piotr of - Szapocznikow Alina which is auctioned at the end of the The images originate from sources as varied 03. show to raise funds for the non-profit as documentary or textbook photos and organisation. escapist landscape paintings. From there on,  petitsriens.be the artist's visual vocabulary and broad technical repertoire take over, fully aware that it is in the pairing together of genres that 02. Casting everything an original view emerges. Coinciding with the Polish presidency of the European Union, Wiels celebrates Florian Maier Aichen the pioneering and provocative practice of  From 13th September to 29th October

sculptor Alina Szapocznikow with one of her  Galerie Baronian Francey, Brussels © Courtesy Tim Van Laere Gallery, Antwerp first large-scale surveys outside of Poland.  baronianfrancey.com 04. Focusing on her experimental period, the show gathers more than a hundred of her works, among which the tinted polyester casts * of her lips and breasts transformed into eve- The store to drop by ryday objects like lamps or ashtrays. A con- centration camp survivor, Szapocznikow has Pop-Up used her art to give voice to personal issues @ Atelier Solarshop (Antwerp), until 8th such as the ambivalently sexualized and October – A mix of playful yet modern anguished experience of the female body, rec- aesthetic objects and items will fill up ollections of the war and the Holocaust, and the space of Atelier Solarshop for the finally, a dramatic examination of the cancer third edition of their Pop-Up project. that brought her life to a premature end. The selection of exclusive, limited and numbered works by international young Alina Szapocznikow : Sculpture Undone, talents is available for five weeks only, so 1955-1972 be sure not to miss out.  From 10th September to 8th January  ateliersolarshop.be  Wiels, Brussels

 wiels.org © Florian Maier-Aichen 12 The diary

05. 05. Back to basics 07. British design at its finest The question of sustainability has never The Brussels-based design showroom been as relevant, be it in fashion, food or La Fabrika has invited Donna Wilson to design, as it is today. The Design Museum’s create an installation in collaboration with current show examines the kind of design that established British manufacturers Ercol and illustrates the “art of reduction” – cutting SCP. Earning the accolade of British Designer back on materials and going for products of the Year 2010, Wilson has been quoted with a longer life expectancy. The exhibition as being “wonderful with wool,” a “material aims to provide the explanation behind the marvel,” a “textile designer extraordinaire” rational design logic in aspects such as the and even an “all round textile legend.” production process, spatial limitations or Characterised by a playful nature, tactile aesthetic trends, setting design icons ranging aesthetic and multicoloured palette, the from le Corbusier to Eero Saarinen against young designer’s work ranges from colourful similar figures from the worlds of fashion, knitted creatures to striking upholstered food design and art. furniture designs, which all promise to be a refreshing sight during this month’s Design Die Essenz der Dinge: September festival. Design and the art of reduction  Until 16th October Donna Wilson, Ercol & SCP  Design Museum, Ghent  From 8th to 30th September  designmuseumgent.be  La Fabrika, Brussels  lafabrika.be

© Hi-Cone, Vitra Design Museum 06. It takes one to know one 06. After having infiltrated the Parisian * fashion world aged barely 16 – where he The festival to catch worked on catwalk scenography, became artistic director and created identities Electronic Weekend for luxury brands such as Lanvin, Jean- @ Bozar (Brussels), on 28th and 29th Charles de Castelbajac, Sampar or Gaspard October – The creme of the crop of the Yurkievich – Antoine Bouillot decided to current electronic scene takes over the have a go at movie directing, before settling Bozar for a weekend where local talent for visual arts. Visibly inspired – or affect- gets to mingle with international names ed – by his previous experience, the French like Modeselektor or Siriusmo. Ideal for artist’s vision of art became one of a tautologi- those forced to go cold turkey at the cal provocation with the world of luxury as an festival season’s end. alibi, resulting in a body of work that accuses  bozar.be as much as it celebrates these two worlds. © Courtesy A.L.I.C.E. Gallery 07. Antoine Bouillot: 08. Still life Little Did They Know Exclusively inspired by nature,  From 10th September to 29th October Bob Verschueren has spent the past three  A.L.I.C.E. Gallery, Brussels decades developing a singular visual lan-  alicebxl.com guage. Rising on the international art scene with his vegetal installations, destined to vanish with every exhibition’s closing, the * Belgian artist has also developed his own The show you can’t miss brand of “miniatures”: photographs of small sculptures assembled with twigs and found Raw Edges, from flat to full leaves. Displaying his new and previous

© Gareth Hacker @ Hunting and Collecting (Brussels), creations, as well as featuring his recent 08. from 8th to 25th September audio works of plant sounds, the Botanique’s Design dealer Victor Hunt brings israeli- museum takes on the aura of an immersive born, london-based designers raw edges forest, proof that one couldn’t dream of a to town for an extensive overview of their better venue than the capital’s botanical most recent work, the lot to be exhib- gardens to offer an extended vision of this ited in the city’s favourite style boutique nature-lover’s work. Hunting and Collecting.  victor-hunt.com Bob Verschueren  From 15th September to 6th November  Botanique, Brussels

United Kingdom ( 11  16 )

09. The bear king 09. 11. All hail the Kaiser Antwerp Six’ most exuberant and larger Without a doubt one of the most important than life figure has relentlessly been chal- artists living today, Gerhard Richter’s major ret- lenging the fashion world for the past three rospective promises to be the fall opening no art decades. Known for his colourful designs, enthusiast could possibly miss. This is a unique his maverick fashion shows in Paris in the chance to get up close and personal with a vast 90s, and the critical messages on society selection of the German artist’s paintings based he proclaims with his designs, Walter Van on photographs, colourful gestural abstractions, Beirendonck will see the highlights of his squeegee paintings, portraits, subtle landscapes career and creations celebrated in this com- and historical paintings. Landmark pieces such prehensive retrospective at Antwerp's fashion as his The Skull and Candle paintings, Iceberg museum. In addition to silhouettes from his in Mist, a magisterial triptych of Cloud, Wald, collections, the exhibition will provide an and September, an image of the terrorist attacks overview of the world he lives in, taking a on the World Trade Centre in New York in deeper look into the narrative character of 2001, will be present, as well as a series of glass his oeuvre, his fascination for ethnography, constructions and mirror works he has been rituals, science fiction and technology. recently working on.

Walter Van Beirendonck: Dream The Gerhard Richter: Panorama th th World Awake © Scott Trindle  From 6 October to 8 January  From 14 th September to 19th February 10.  Tate Modern, London  MoMu, Antwerp  tate.org.uk  momu.be

* 10. Contradiction and harmony the fair you can't miss Belgian sculptors Fien Muller and Hannes Van Severen have launched a furni- Frieze Art Fair ture collection that is to have its debut during @ Regent’s Park (London), from 13th to the Design September circuit. Having chosen 16th October – It is one of the world’s

to create furniture out of sheer necessity © Fien Muller. Courtesy Valerie Traan gallery most influential contemporary art fairs, and function, both artists favour clear-cut 11. and one that requires little introduction. storage boxes, tables, racks and lamps whose It's the chance to discover work by some pure forms still manage to embrace the lush of the most significant artists working adornment in their completion and combina- today in one single weekend, and run into tion. Their furniture exist because of a logical the likes of Kate Moss, Hugh Grant or necessity. A table with a table-leg turning into Claudia Schiffer. a cantilever lamp, an open cabinet where one  friezeartfair.com of the shelves becomes a table, or a series of lamps that are no more than a socket, a cover and a cord. The surprise comes from the 12. Shaping a nation combination of colours, materials, functions Some products and appliances seem and – especially – the commonness. so familiar and engraved in the collective mindset that it can be hard to imagine where Muller Van Severen they could actually stem from. Yet Kenneth  From 8th September to 9th October Grange has been shaping the interiors and  Galerie Jerôme Sohier, Brussels landscapes of Britain for the past 50 years,  jeromesohier.com creating products that were not only a commercial success but also a joy to use. Kodak cameras, Wilkinson Sword Razors, Ronson

* © Gerhard Richter cigarette lighters, Kenwood food mixers, The show you can’t miss 12. Parker pens, the Adshel bus shelters, the Rural Post box for Royal Mail or the re-design of Duende is in the house the London Taxi Cab are just some of his well- @ Diito (Brussels) from 15th to known designs and are all currently displayed 30th September – The Eden ADN, a at the Design Museum, putting the last five genetic design exhibition by boundary- decades of British design into perspective. breaking PR agency Duende promises to be one of Design September's highlights. Kenneth Grange : Making Britain Modern  diito.be  Until 30th October  Design Museum, London

13. 13. The golden age 15. Style over substance There used to be a time when Hollywood Focusing on the 70s and 80s, the V&A’s stars’ images were strictly controlled by the new exhibition dedicated to Postmodernism studios and only comprised of a handful of will explore the radical ideas that challenged the photographs that circulated around the world. orthodoxies of Modernism. And whilst many These portraits released to the public and press modernists considered style to be a mere side- depicted the actors as glamorous and inacces- show to their utopian visions, the postmodernists sible, imbuing them with a mystique that would saw style as being everything. The exhibition simply be unimaginable in today's paparazzi will also show how Postmodernism evolved culture. This exhibition displays more than 70 from a provocative architectural movement to original vintage prints of icons, amongst which influence all areas of popular culture including James Dean, Marlon Brando, Elizabeth Taylor art, film, music, graphics and fashion with over and Marilyn Monroe. This is a rare opportu- 250 objects revisiting a time when style was not nity to view these important artefacts of a now just a “look”, but became an attitude. extinct Hollywood studio system.

© John Kobal Foundation, 2011 Postmodernism: 14. Glamour of the Gods: Style and Subversion 1970-1990 Hollywood Portraits  From 24th September to 15th January  Until 23rd October  V&A, London  National Portrait Gallery, London  vam.ac.uk  npg.org.uk

16. The view from inside * Mayfair’s Sprüth Magers gallery will be Last days to see hosting an exciting site-specific project by Joseph Kosuth, often referred to as “the father Jake or Dinos Chapman of Conceptual art”. The Mind’s Image of @ White Cube (London), until 17th Itself – a play of architecture and the mind, September – London’s iconoclastic sib- is both a reflection on the architecture of the lings have been shaking the art world for gallery space and of a suggested architecture the past 20 years with their searing wit of the mind. The installation is composed of and provocative nature. For this exhibi- an off register, a 1:1 wallpapered line drawing tion, the brothers have worked in sepa- facsimile of the gallery rooms themselves. Shave your style. rate studios for the first time, unveiling Add to that a fragmented intellectual dis- a series of works confronting the whole course made up of more than 150 meticulous- idea of creative collaboration they have ly selected quotes by diverse thinkers from a “Make life your canvas.” become famous for. variety of sources put in play as wall texts and

14. Modernism’s poster boy Joseph Kosuth: The Estorick Collection has gathered more The Mind’s Image of Itself than 50 pioneering works of graphic design and  From 10th September to 1st October illustration to examine one of the key figures  Sprüth Magers, London of British Modernism. A remarkably versatile  spruthmagers.com artist, Edward McKnight Kauffer drew on a

© Private Collection wide variety of styles in creating his works, 16. from Japanese art to Fauvism, Constructivism * and Surrealism. Yet it is his celebrated Last days to see posters created for clients such as London Underground and Shell during the inter-war Mathilde Rosier years for which he remains most famous, @ Camden Arts Center (London), until leading Kauffer to produce some of the most 25th September – The French artist has iconic and influential commercial imagery of transformed the Gallery 3 into a specially the early 20th century. An absolute must-see for constructed environment, gathering any graphic design fiend. paintings, sculptural assemblages and film, inspired by Freud, Jean Rouch and Scan to watch exclusive footage of Emil shaving, Edward McKnight Kauffer: Tutankhamen’s tomb. The Poster King  camdenartscentre.org styling and trimming his personal statement of style.  From 14 th September to 18th December www.braun.com/cruZer  Estorick Collection, London When you scan this bar code, the terms, conditions and privacy © Courtesy the Artist and Sprüth Magers Berlin London  estorickcollection.com policy of the bar code reader that you selected will apply. cruZer

BR110729-210x295-cruZerFaceEmil_word_BE.indd 1 01.08.11 09:12 Shave your style. “Make life your canvas.” Emil Kozak, 29, Artist

Scan to watch exclusive footage of Emil shaving, styling and trimming his personal statement of style. www.braun.com/cruZer

When you scan this bar code, the terms, conditions and privacy policy of the bar code reader that you selected will apply. cruZer

BR110729-210x295-cruZerFaceEmil_word_BE.indd 1 01.08.11 09:12 16 The diary

( 17  18 ) ( 19  20 ) BO Holland France ZAR

17. Poignant realism 17. 19. From the globe with love MU Sir Stanley Spencer's oeuvre is charac- Now in its third edition, Photoquai is a terised by a wealth of themes that include biennial dedicated to non-western photog- biblical stories, landscapes, self portraits and raphy whose simple mission statement is to domestic scenes and his unique figurative showcase artists whose work is little known in SIC style of painting. That, in combination with Europe. Curators have selected 46 emerging his choice of subjects, have led him to become photographic talents from nearly 30 dif- one of the most important British artists of ferent countries such as Tanzania, Brazil, the 20th century. Spencer allows reality to Cambodia, Russia, China, Bahrain or Iraq, dominate in his silent landscapes and inti- each artist being revealed by the unique mate portraits, while fantasy and joie de vivre identity of their point of view but also by the enjoy their heyday in some of his most famous context of their production and influences. paintings. Significantly contributing to the A unique voyage through the obsessions and development of modern art, his work will be fantasies of photographers and their visions placed in an historical context alongside 20 of society. works by English contemporaries such as the late Lucian Freud and Dora Carrington. Photoquai: 3rd Biennal exhibition of world images Sir Stanley Spencer: Between Heaven  From 13th September to 11th November and Earth  Musée du Quai Branly, Paris  From 17th September to 15th January  quaibranly.fr  Kunsthal, Rotterdam  Kunsthal.nl

© Courtesy Tate, London Courtesy© Tate, * 18. The fair you can’t miss 18. Visions arise A prominent figure of the Düsseldorf Fiac @ Grand Palais (Paris), from 20th School (alongside Andreas Gursky, Thomas to 23rd October – 165 exposing galleries Ruff and Thomas Struth), Axel Hütte has spanning 21 countries will once more made a name for himself by injecting a paint- gather in the French capital’s Grand erly quality in his landscape photographs. Palais for this modern and contemporary Hütte does not retouch his photos, nor does art mecca. Don’t miss the “parcours CONCERTS, DJ SETS, he direct anything, but he does consciously design” on the opening night, an event employ traditional techniques from classic marking the reinforcement of the design painting such as central perspective, crop- © Axel Hütte and architecture selection. AUDIOVISUAL ARTS ping, raised viewpoints, balanced composi- 19.  fiac.com tions and imposing dimensions. Rotterdam's Akinci gallery will gather the photographer's recent works, in which the central theme of 20. Hedonistic beauty reflections in water emerge, pervading the The second half of the 19th century in prints with even dreamier aspects. Britain saw a shift from the ugliness and : Olivier Bruniels materialism that were predominant to a new 28 & 29.10.2011 Axel Hütte idealisation of art and beauty reinforced by Photo | Foto  From 10th September to 8th October the painters, poets, decorators and designers  Akinci, Amsterdam of that time. Together, they defined an artistic  akinci.nl style freed from the principles of order and Victorian morality, allowing the expression of sensuality. This exhibition will explore this * British aesthetic movement through the works Last days to see of Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Edward Burne-

© Lek Kiatsirikajorn© Jones, Oscar Wilde and Aubrey Beardsley, Erwin Wurm, The Beauty Business 20. who all united in a quest to combine artistic @ Gem (The Hague), until 18th September creation and lifestyle, a quest that found – Wurm’s biting humour will be cel- fertile areas of expression in photography, the ebrated with this retrospective in which decorative arts, literature and modes of dress. visitors will be invited to take part in the exhibition and become One Minute Beauty, Morals and Voluptuousness in Sculptures. All they have to do is post the England of Oscar Wilde pictures of themselves on Flickr and / or  From 13th September to 15th January Twitter using the (hash)tag WURMGEM.  Musée d’Orsay, Paris How very 2011.  musee-orsay.fr

 gem-online.com London Gallery, Portrait National © Co-production: Je M’en Fish vzw

BEW2011_annTheWord_210x295.indd 1 04/08/11 09:55 BO ZAR MU SIC

CONCERTS, DJ SETS, AUDIOVISUAL ARTS

28 & 29.10.2011 : Olivier Bruniels Photo | Foto

Co-production: Je M’en Fish vzw

BEW2011_annTheWord_210x295.indd 1 04/08/11 09:55 18 The diary

The pick of gigs to come

Kitty, Daisy Boots Electric Omar Sic Alps Shabazz Palaces Teeth & Lewis @ Trix Souleyman @ Vooruit Café @ L’ Ancienne @ Botanique @ L’ Ancienne on 17th September @ L’ Ancienne on 22nd September Belgique on 14th October Belgique Belgique on 28th September on 15th September on 18th September

The three Durham siblings There’s no point denying A legend in his own right Sic Alps’ simple, stripped, The first hip hop act to get Being touted as Karl – aged 18 to 22 – have been the soft spot we have for in his native Syria (where nihilistic brand of garage signed to Sub Pop, Shabazz Lagerfeld’s favourite new making waves with their Eagles Of Death Metal he is said to have released might not be reinventing Palaces appeared on the band certainly raises the swinging R&B, jazz and frontman Jesse Hughes. more than 500 tapes the musical wheel, though scene back in 2010 with its stakes. Fortunately, Teeth’s blues sound directly lifted The self-proclaimed in less than 20 years), it sure does the trick when self-debut titled, a blend electro-noise-pop lives up from the 50s, a decade hillbilly and endearing Souleyman’s singular it comes to nailing the of atmospheric and offbeat to the hype. Playful, fresh, they have been obsessed sleazebag extraordinaire style of beat-heavy and hedonistic spirit of the productions supported by stylish, minimalistic yet with for as long as they can has taken some time off synth-driven oriental 60s. Imagine the Beach Palaceer Lazaro’s crystal- very punchy, cynics might remember. Soulful singing, from the cock-rock band music with an urgency Boys mating with the clear, hard-nosed delivery. describe the Dalston trio feel-good harmonica, he shares with bestie Josh akin to hardcore techno or Kinks, add to that vocalist The former Digable as yet another bunch of catchy handclaps, mom Homme to embark on punk has taken the western Mike Donovan’s lazy Planets frontman, a rap hipsters, but who cares – and dad backing them up a solo journey as Boots world by storm. Invited to slur reminiscent of Brian purist if there ever was they put on a good show and during concerts – it truly is Electric. Cannot wait. perform at AB during the Jonestown Massacre’s one, descends on Brussels that’s all that counts, right? a “bop till you drop” type capital’s “car free Sunday”, Anton Newcombe, et voilà. with his activist collective of family affair.  Plays Amsterdam the gig is free, so no excuse. following the release of  Play London (Paradiso)  Play Paris their second LP, Black Up. (The Lexington)  Play Amsterdam on 15th September  Plays Tilburg (Glazart) on 23rd Decidedly softer than its on 21st September (Melkweg)  Plays Paris (013) September predecessor, it is one of the  Play Amsterdam on 13th September (Nouveau Casino) on 12th September  Play Amsterdam best rap albums of the year. (Paradiso)  Play Paris on 16th September  Plays Antwerp (Occii) on 13th October (La Maroquinerie)  Plays London (Trix) on 24th September  Play London on 12th October (XOYO) on 13th September (Madame Jojo’s) on 19th September  Plays Paris on 27th September (Point Ephémère)  Play Amsterdam on 14 th September (Melkweg) on 29th September Expat ? Visit ING ﬁ rst.

before you arrive in Belgium : accounts, bank Soul Asylum Saul Williams Sonic City The Ex Gablé Silver Apples Are you an expatriate ? If so, you need support cards, rental guarantee, etc. To find out what ING @ L’ Ancienne @ Botanique @ De Kreun @ VK @ Beursschouwburg @ Trix Belgique on 20th October on 29th October on 29th October on 5th November on 8th November and advice. That’s exactly what ING can provide can do for you, don’t hesitate to call one of our th on 16 October for all your banking and insurance requirements. advisors on + 32 (0)2 464 66 64. Our ING Expat service deals with everything, even Yes, the “Runaway The highly respected and By inviting Melvins, These veterans of Dutch Pigeonholing this joyful Silver Apples were already Train” grungers from versatile modern-day poet, Factory Floor, HTRK, punk emerged at the height and whacky French quartet experimenting with Minneapolis are back. MC, musician and actor Mark Ernestus, Legendary of the genre in 1979 and is simply impossible. primitive synthesisers in As a matter of fact, they is on the road to defend Pink Dots, Tannhauser survived its downfall. Gablé crosses over genres 1967 (before Kraftwerk never really left the scene, Volcanic Sunlight, his Sterben Und Das Tod, Undergoing several line-up and styles, overthrowing even formed), producing they just somewhat failed fourth offering, which sees Standish/Carlyon, and changes during their three- any expectations of what a new kind of trippy and at following up on that him take things where he left Sightings; the LA- decade career, their sound a normal “band” could psychedelic electronic sound www.ing.be/expat 1993 worldwide hit. them on his previous Trent based Liars – who were evolved from anarcho- possibly be, with an that would go on to influence Recent material might not Reznor-produced opus asked to curate this day punk to new-wave, even unexpected freshness. krautrock, dance music have been met with great and steer even further in a festival in Courtrai/ incorporating free jazz, Their bubbly and and indie rock. It wasn’t enthusiasm, but if you’re strange electro pop vibe. Kortrijk - demonstrate the afrobeat, blues and folk, unpredictable live shows until the late 90s that they dying to whip out that impeccable, versatile and whilst never losing their have cemented their finally got the recognition flannel shirt from the attic,  Plays Amsterdam slightly offbeat taste one relevance, edge or mythical reputation as the band they deserved, leading now you know where to go. (Bitterzoet) would rightfully expect onstage energy. to watch, incorporating sole-member Simeon to hit on 17th October of them. hoovers amongst other the roads again.  Play London  Plays Paris  Play Paris surrealist elements. Simply (HMV Forum) (La Cigale) on 3rd (Jazz A Villette) expect some serious fun.  Plays London on 15th October November on 4th September (Corsica Studios)  Play Utrecht  Play Paris on 27th October (Ekko) (Point Ephémère)  Plays Rotterdam on 26th October on 2nd November (WORM) on 7th November

ING Belgium SA/nv – Bank – avenue Marnix 24, B-1000 Brussels – Brussels RPM/RPR – VAT BE 0403.200.393 – BIC (SWIFT): BBRUBEBB – IBAN: BE45 3109 1560 2789 (Account: 310-9156027-89). Publisher: Philippe Wallez, cours Saint-Michel 60, 1040 Brussels.

297x210_ING_Expat_livre_EN.indd 1 10/08/11 16:06 Expat ? Visit ING ﬁ rst.

before you arrive in Belgium : accounts, bank Are you an expatriate ? If so, you need support cards, rental guarantee, etc. To find out what ING and advice. That’s exactly what ING can provide can do for you, don’t hesitate to call one of our for all your banking and insurance requirements. advisors on + 32 (0)2 464 66 64. Our ING Expat service deals with everything, even

www.ing.be/expat

297x210_ING_Expat_livre_EN.indd 1 10/08/11 16:06 20 The papers Cinema Photography Industry Society Publishing Rise and shine

The blue papers We walk the beat with the local boys in blue, talk to prodigy movie maker Gust Van den Berghe about his latest feature Blue Birds, meet the founder of boutique photography publisher Le Caillou Bleu and, finally, talk to photographer Julie Calbert about her on-going series of Polaroids Into the Blue. Think we might have gone a little over-the-top on this colour-coded trip for once?

Writers Robbert van Jaarsveld, Rose Kelleher, Nicholas Lewis & Sam Steverlynck Neighbourhood 21

ˆ “ Le Caillou Bleu, essentially, is Fabrice’s very intimate ode to photography on paper ”

ˇ © Sarah Eechaut

with more than a facet to his game (he takes editing work I do for other publishing houses,” Le Caillou care of everything from his books’ graphic he says, somewhat reassuringly. Asked how he design and art direction to their international believes his books differ from that of another sales and distribution), Fabrice belongs to that publisher, his response is immediate: “their Bleu rare breed of new generation publishers: confi- finish – distributors love my books – and dent in their vision, patient in the achievement (the fact that) the price is affordable.” In the Listening to Fabrice Wagner (pictured above) of their goals and driven by a deep-rooted end though, the personal and non-linear way describe Le Caillou Bleu, the boutique pub- passion for what they do. And it is this last in which the selection is made is really what lishing imprint he founded six years ago and point that really shines through in the case of is the most endearing about the independent which now counts 20 fine art photography Le Caillou Bleu, which, essentially, is Fabrice’s publishing house. Nothing is too calculated, books to its name, you get the sense that this very intimate ode to photography on paper, an and nothing is too provoked. Everything is the is more than just a commercial venture for extension of himself. Indeed, you get the sense work of instinct and emotional appeal. “I’ve the Strasbourg-born Frenchman who arrived that his back catalogue of books acts as his published the works of a pensioner, as well in Brussels in 1995. With a somewhat loose- private gallery, every new book he brings out as having published the works of a student,” ended focus which defines itself by its whole- more akin to a recent addition to an already continues Fabrice. And, why Le Caillou Bleu? hearted acceptance of photography in all its growing collection than a mere new entry in an “My son, Thomas, used to paint stones in blue forms (“Le Caillou Bleu publishes photo- Autumn / Winter catalogue. He talks fondly when we were on holidays.” Simple… (NL) graphic works of every kind, without favouring about the photographers whose work he has any specific artistic trend,” states the ‘about us’ published (Frank Rothe, André Cepeda, Le Caillou Bleu has just published Satoru Toma’s book page on the company’s website), the Brussels- Philippe Herbet, Jean-Luc Fournier amongst ‘Ask the cat’ to coincide with the Japanese-born, based publisher mostly acts as a springboard others), investing himself to the fullest in nur- Brussels-based photographer’s current exhibition for otherwise little or unknown photographers. turing their career and taking word of one of of the same name at Espace Photographique Contretype, “The image comes first,” says Fabrice when we them getting a major exhibition in an interna- which runs until 4th September. meet him one Wednesday afternoon in his tional gallery as a personal victory, one which Schaerbeek townhouse “it doesn’t have to be seems to go way beyond the need to break- cailloubleu.com (the work of a) professional.” A one-man band even at the end of the month – “I live with the contretype.org 22 The papers

mesmerising atmospheric moments, solemnis- captures these, however, that makes her work Photographer ing timeless instants of beauty that often owe so endearing and distinguishes it from the rest. more to their past existence than their present Indeed, the blue tones used throughout her one. More akin to snapshots of the unexpected many series, omnipresent and defining, hark Julie Calbert’s than to calculated compositions of the predica- back to her fascination with dreams and memo- ble, Julie’s impressive body of work consider- ries: “(the colour) brings a certain lightness to blue notes ing her young age delights in its sheer beauty my images,” she explains “just like in dreams or and maturity. She possesses an uncanny ability memories.” A dreamcatcher then. (NL) “I like telling stories with oneiric undertones,” to detect the meaningful in a sea of everyday, says 25 year old photographer Julie Calbert. spotting those little things you wouldn’t neces- A recent graduate of Brussels’ INRACI, the sarily see, let alone deem worthy of a photo- juliecalbert.be Brussels-based artist creates and captures graph: a chandelier, a landscaped-wallpaper, Visit thewordmagazine.be/wonders/JulieCalbert mystifying, mysterious and, at times even lakes in Sweden, eerie forests. It is the way she for a complete gallery of Julie’s work. Neighbourhood 23 24 The papers

ˆ “ An enduring analogy for the wistful, the local bobby walked the beat, escorting kids home who'd snuck out of school or sleepovers ”

ˇ © Virassamy ©

Louis is a decided graduate of the old school. the psychology and eye of an sentinel. He spots Good old He is nostalgic for the neat and uncomplicated amateurs filming a movie in front of a church. days when beat policing was the ideal of public An enquiry reveals they don't have permission policy. “I know the people. The young officers from the commune, but he drops it. “We are not fashioned today don't know the people. They look for big in Cuba. I don't want to be repressive, to be a criminals. They are looking for glory, and they bear, I'm more like a lion. In Matonge they call police work don't want to walk the beat. They prefer to go me Bwana Louis.” he laughs. Ça va ? Ça va... around in cars.” He holds regular community Louis shouts in the window of a Lebanese snack. How many policemen does it take to change meetings. These softly softly measures project “That's if you are polite with me. Two weeks a lightbulb? One, but he's never around when a nice image of the police. Most people don't ago, this stupid guy stole a bottle of Adidas you need him. An unexceptional joke says it care about national crime figures based on data perfume. ¤ 3.50 it cost. He tells me “Fuck you”. all. Once the heroes of TV and film, the cop in far-flung cities. They care about finding the I don't even know this guy, and he tells me “Fuck of popular imagination has degenerated into delinquent who stole their garden gnome. The you”! So I call a patrol car.” Saluting workers in an estranged bureaucrat at best. Ye olde neigh- sight of a uniformed officer on foot is more a beauty shop, Louis adds “But it's not always bourhood policeman, on the other hand, is reassuring than an aloof face emerging from the necessary to make a report. If I see someone one of nostalgia's greatest hits. An enduring depths of a patrol car. “I hate going in the patrol with a joint, I put it out. I use my judgement, analogy for the wistful, the local bobby walked car.” says Louis “You see nothing. You can go by and if my boss says it was a bad decision, I say the beat, escorting kids home who'd snuck out bike too, but if you park your bike on the corner, OK, but I was in the street and you were in the of school or sleepovers. He always had time you come back and it's gone.” His beat includes office. And he says OK, it's your decision. On for a chat, and he was always a “he”. Due to the well-behaved Chatelain / Kastelein quarter, the street, I'm the boss.” Rue du Bailli is busy the rise of statistics-based policing, today's but also the more colourful Matonge. As soon as with shoppers. “I saw some of these girls at six university-educated boys and girls in blue are he steps out of the station, a woman asks Louis years old with their parents. Now I see them in more likely to be involved in obsessive record for directions. Her hands are clasped respect- Place Chatelain / Kasteleinsplein 20 years later keeping than community relations. “There is a fully in front of her, the uniform producing a with their own kids. That's what you get being lot of paperwork now,” says 3rd District Police strange reverential effect. He stops every few the neighbourhood police: you get to know Inspector Louis De Langhe, “About 75 percent metres to drop in on local business owners. He is the people.” (RK) of the job. When I started, we were outside on kissing terms with many of them. He watches more and the job was based on action. Now it's out for illegal parking, breaches of red lights. Rose spent two days walking the beat with Inspector Louis all statistics.” On the force for 33 years now, A soccer referee in his spare time, Louis has De Langhe in and around Ixelles / Elsene. Neighbourhood 25

ˆ “ The only difference is that there is no tape, no disc, no cashier to pay and no overhead cost including the rent of the real estate, maintenance, power… ”

ˇ © Virassamy ©

used to do it before the days of P2P, Rapidshare that in fact, they can significantly up their profits Above and Youtube. Speaking of which, when is the by uploading one high quality master file onto a last time you bought a DVD or rented a movie ? central server instead of shipping containers full If you’re thinking “last week, why do you ask ?” of Blu-rays off to other markets. Prognosis: most the cloud: Then congratulations, you belong to that dying carriers will disappear while a select few will breed, the upstanding citizen. Most probable take on the status that vinyl holds today: a luxury from hard though, you belong to the download-and-share item for the connoisseur, the expert cultural tribe, the on-demand generation used to getting consumer. Everything else will come out of the whatever the fuck it wants at the mere click of a cloud. In a way, it makes perfect sense. Even on to no copy button (often red). The only difference is that an ecological level, it seems like the smart thing there is no tape, no disc, no cashier to pay and no to do. Why press billions upon billions of dvd’s, In the last years, the long-play phonograph overhead cost including the rent of the real estate, Blu-rays, newspapers, books and cd’s and ship record has made a nearly unprecedented come- maintenance, power… So then what are you them all over the world when it’s way easier to just back after its near death at the hands of the paying for? A rain of bits coming from a cloud. upload it straight onto your corporate server and compact disc. Industry statistics showed that The only overhead cost is a buzzing basement make it available worldwide to all your paying in 2010, sales of vinyl records increased by 14 full of servers and hard drives… And of course customers with the click of a button? Doing it percent – a rare triumph in a bloody war that copyright coin. It's that same statistical mindfuck: any other way seems like a waste of time, energy is being lost on all fronts. It marked a cultural getting a 25 percent discount doesn't count for and resources. Of course it can't be a win-win for turning point ; musical journalists marveled over shit if all it means is that you're being ripped off everybody: if everything is in the cloud, there what they called the return of decency in a realm more efficiently than before. will no longer be a need for bookshops, press of decay. True music lovers will find their way to Thus, the question remains: how are the shops, record stores, libraries, video stores… quality and the new releases that matter to them Kaisers Of Content going to save their sharkskin At least not as we know them. There will be a – they said – regardless of how many low bitrate suits? So far, the majors still seem to think that time when a paper magazine – much like the one mp3's you bombard them with. Maybe so, but they can turn this thing around on a legislative you’re reading right now – will be like a limited then why did the same report indicate that some level – and get everybody to pay again. And the edition 10" Radiohead EP: a vintage symbol of of the top selling artists included such upcoming truth is that they are probably going to succeed. nostalgia you keep on your bookshelf to indicate talents as Jimi Hendrix and Bob Dylan ? Better yet: they’re going to do it by making you that you know how to appreciate the finer things Sure, you know some people who buy a bit think you got a good deal. They haven’t yet in life. (RVJ) of vinyl or the occasional cd, but not the way they figured out that they don't really need a carrier; 26 The papers

ˆ “ We went through some heavy stuff. Death, quarrels with tribal chief, locals ripping us off… ”

Bruegel, whilst also revealing a voice of its own. to Blue Birds as “My own little avatar”. The blue Director Van den Berghe's second film Blue Bird – based hue gives the film almost a physical dimension on another obscure fictional story, this time playing with the viewer’s perception, while the L'Oiseau Bleu (1908) by Maurice Maeterlinck, horizontal format works wonders for the shots of Gust Van den Belgium’s one and only Nobel price winner Togo’s vast landscapes. for Literature – was also selected for Cannes’ Both of Van den Berghe’s movies were made Berghe’s very Quinzaine des Réalisateurs, rejecting any claim without professional actors (people with Down that the wunderkind was just another one hit syndrome for the first and locals for the second), wonder. As the original story about two chil- and with a very low budget (a mere 60,000 own little dren looking for a magical blue bird is too dated euros) : “To find money, you almost have to be as for today’s (western) readers, Van den Berghe creative as in making your film,” he jokes. As in avatar wisely set the story in Africa where the belief in order to finance his debut, Van den Berghe was a ghosts and the supernatural is still well-and-truly guinea pig for several medical tests (he also appar- Having your final-year project screened at alive. In their quest to find the bird, the children ently engaged in some illegal activity but nothing Cannes’ Film Festival must be every film stu- wander through a near-mystical landscape, we can talk about on these pages). Shooting a dent’s ultimate dream. It did become reality meeting their deceased grandparents and a group film in Africa wasn't easy either : “It was literally however for the then 24 year old Gust Van of yet to be born children. This journey of life madness! The only certainty we had is that there den Berghe, who’s Little Baby Jesus of Flandr and death is a rite of passage, which is further was no money. We went through some heavy stuff. premiered at the prestigious festival to critical emphasised in the end, when the mother notices Death, quarrels with tribal chief, locals ripping acclaim. For his debut, Van den Berghe – an that her children have outgrown their clothes. us off…” That being said, the restrictions – the ambitious yet down to earth director who gradu- Blue Bird is a deliberate and simple story about lack of electricity which forced the crew to use ated in 2009 from Brussels’ RITS film school – the loss of innocence. At its core, the movie is memory cards – did serve to keep the director on used the little known Flemish Christmas play more about the subdued atmosphere and poetic his toes. Tellingly, the agitation during produc- En waar de sterre bleef stille staan by Felix beauty than the story itself. Most interestingly tion didn't overshadow its final result, as Van den Timmermans as a starting point. In Van den perhaps, the film’s overall aesthetic, atmosphere Berghe says, “it contributed to the energy animat- Berghe’s version though, the play’s three kings and tone are enhanced by Van den Berghe’s use ing the film.” The general mood however is one are played by mentally handicapped actors of visual technique. Though shot in colour, the of poetic tranquility of which Van den Berghe – like the majority of the crew – contribut- film’s blue tint was reached at through the use – though just starting to develop his oeuvre – ing to the film’s uncanny atmosphere. Shot in of a filter, which was constantly graded in a already seems to have made his trademark. (SS) the Flemish countryside, the grainy black and studio – a time-consuming process that can be white film contains long frames of desolate compared to the act of painting every one of the Visit thewordmagazine.be/wonders/bluebirds to watch the landscapes that at times evoke the universe of movie’s frames. Indeed, Van den Berghe refers movie’s trailer and a gallery of stills.

ds2011_pub-210x295_vect.indd 1 16/08/11 14:47 ds2011_pub-210x295_vect.indd 1 16/08/11 14:47 28 The study Graphic design Illustration Talent Jokes The Word & Levis presents

The blue album’s colour chart — A collaborative study in different shades of blue T0.10.80 S6.09.77 S0.15.80 S6.14.75 T0.20.70 S4.26.64 S0.40.60 S0.40.50 S0.50.50 S0.50.40 S5.48.41 T0.40.30 30 The Word on Industry People Heritage Teenage territories Your teenage bedroom was the first time your personality really took shape. From the tacky Beverly Hills 90210 posters you blutacked to the wall to the love letters you scribbled on the back of your bed, your bedroom was your world. It said more about you than the Wrangler jeans your mum forced you to wear. It was who you were.

Photographer Sarah Eechaut

Eva Van Kerkhove

28 years old, clinical child psychologist. Life 31

Magalie Flerackers

25 years old, masters in Sinology student. 32 The Word on

Stijn Van Hoey

34 years old, sports coordinator. Life 33

Yves Van Kerkhove

31 years old, music product manager. 34 The other Word on Passion Photography

The big blue

When the Indian Ocean is nothing but a distant dream yet your little one insists on a face-to-face with Nemo, your next best option is bringing it to the living room. And, as we realised whilst meeting some aquarium diehards, that can mean anything from single-room, table-topped fishbowls to fully automated, wall-mounted monster aquariums.

Photographer Veerle Frissen Life 35

Steven van Aeldeweereld, 31

Bought his first aquarium aged 25 and now counts 36 fish, all of them Cichlids from Lake Malawi except for one, “a fish from my previous aquarium that I really wanted to keep.” He is most proud of his Pseudotropheus Demasoni, a blue and black striped cichlid from Lake Malawi. 36 The other Word on

Erik Lievens, 62

Bought his first aquarium in 1987, aged 38. Owns approximately 60 fish, all of them Cichlids. Erik estimates he spends around 250 euros per year on his aquariums. Life 37

Dirk Van Damme, 54

Bought his first aquarium at the tender age of 12 and today owns eight (two large aquariums in the living room, the largest of which is a whopping 1,600L, and six in the back room). Owns over 100 fish, all of them Cichlids from rivers in Brazil and Argentina. Dirk finds it difficult to pick one fish over another : “You will always see, that when you favour one fish, something bad will happen to it.”

Jan Jacobs, 34

Bought his first aquarium aged 21 and today owns three. One for show, and one for emergencies (in case a fish gets sick, is attacked by another fish or, worse, needs to be quarantined). His aquariums are inhabited by 10 fish, a few Scarlet cleaner shrimps, a sea star, a black sea urchin, a hermit lobster and a few sea snails. “Currently, I have a black and orange clownfish mating with each other and I’m very excited about the result.”

Visit thewordmagazine.be/wonders/thebigblue for our full feature of aquarium obsessives. 38 The encounter People Talent Industry

Meeting Dries Van Noten (or the day my heart stopped beating) Despite being part of fashion royalty, Dries Van Noten really is an idealist and true romantic at heart. I remember meeting him for the first time in Paris a few years ago, in the run up to one of his menswear shows, and being touched by his honest nervousness. What struck me the most though was his humility and sense of distance. And that there is where Dries’ real appeal lies : in fashion, but somewhat removed from it.

Writer Philippe Pourhashemi

The thing about Van Noten’s clothes is that you has grown, and our decision not to do it remains, more than 35 years in the business. However, can actually wear them – everything you see but for different reasons. We do not necessarily Van Noten admits he did consider getting a third on the catwalk will end up in stores. His frocks want to increase the price of our clothes to fund party involved when things got challenging. aren’t made to sell more lipstick. This sense of the advertising and I personally don’t feel that “I remember back in the 90s when many young reality is as rare as it is refreshing in an indus- my collections should be associated with a spe- designers – including myself – were under huge try where designers often rely on shock value to cific image or person. When it comes down to amounts of pressure to sell to the big groups. make the headlines. Blame it on the recession the press, I think that – after 25 years – people When Galliano and McQueen were sold, my perhaps, but conceptual fashion doesn't cut it get to understand your thought process a bit business partner and I did think twice about any longer. There’s a yearning for the authen- more. They respect that I’m an independent whether or not it would have been a good idea tic, qualitative and crafty that Van Noten has designer and I respect their point of view, too, to seek financial help. We decided to forgo that come to be synonymous with. In fact, he has whether it be praise or criticism.” option, got through the worst part and came out enjoyed support from the international press “Independence” is an important factor stronger in the end, with the ability to work at ever since his early beginnings, even though he for the home-grown designer. His company our own pace and no constraints. I cannot really never advertised in it. “I think that, for a very is privately owned and he doesn't have to speak for anyone else on that matter, because I’ve long time, our decision not to advertise was not answer to anyone, except himself. In a weird only ever had to make decisions independently.” a choice, but more of a necessity as we simply way, Van Noten could be Antwerp’s answer to This free-spirited approach also serves to didn’t have the budget. Since then the company Giorgio Armani, who still owns his name after shape the designer’s aesthetic. Indeed, one of Van Style 39

Noten’s skills is the subtle way in which he astutely balances references in his clothes, avoiding clichés and stereotypes. For his last womenswear collection, he had opulence and collage on his mind. “I had the pleasure to see an amazing exhibition on the Ballets Russes at the V&A museum in London last year. I was enthralled by the different ways in which the wardrobe masters were able to create new costumes out of old ones. Sergei Diaghilev – the founder of the Ballets Russes – was also a huge inspiration. This idea of bringing movement and asymmetry to the silhouette was something I found very powerful.” Shown in one of the ridiculously grand reception rooms of the Hôtel de Ville in Paris, the collection was a multi- sensory experience, offering a heady and idiosyn- cratic take on luxury. The Thin White Duke's “Heroes” played on the soundtrack, giving a fiery and poetic vibe to the presentation. Bowie is, in fact, one of the designer's major musical obsessions “His music has been an endless source of inspiration throughout my life. He was able to capture the essence of his music through his wardrobe choices. Besides the endless variety of his looks, Bowie was a true chameleon who had this ability to change constantly. I was referring mainly to two of his periods: the “Just a Gigolo” film – shot in the late 70s – for the menswear's winter collection and “Ziggy Stardust” for the womenswear. It felt perfectly normal to use his music for both shows.”

ˆ have to design each year, including pre-collec- ways of life, cultures and history. I will often If a designer creates 12 tions and accessories. If a designer creates 12 use these rituals and traditions in my work, but collections a year, I do believe he or she will always in a contemporary way.” collections a year, I do get burnt-out pretty quickly. Ideas should be I have a confession to make: Dries Van believe he or she will get nurtured and have a chance to grow before Noten is one of my fashion heroes. Season being pushed out the door to make room for after season, he produces beautiful, wearable burnt-out pretty quickly. new clothes. It’s hard enough doing two lines clothes I want to have. His shows move me, each season. I have enormous respect for other too. He manages to create the right atmos- designers who – year in, year out – continue phere and lures you in, without being pushy ˇ to produce excellent work. As a designer, it all or in your face. Walking into his flagship store Despite having both feet on the ground, boils down to my love for the craft and always in Antwerp is like sneaking into an old, cosy Van Noten can nonetheless be vulnerable and wanting to push and grow.” English library, full of hidden gems and prom- sensitive at times. He leaves room for doubt Van Noten is less forgiving to the fashion ises. His generosity as a human being shines in his life and still questions his choices as circus and its pretentiousness. His clothes through, from the drinks and tasty nibbles he a designer. When he talks about the end of a work for different body types and nationali- serves his audience at shows, to his support collection – and the whole process that leads ties, proving that the industry does not have of new designers. In fact, he makes a point of to the fashion show – his emotional side takes to be narrow-minded to survive: “It would be returning what he received, “Each year, we over “I suppose you could say that there is that foolish for a designer to think that his entire hold seminars in the studio with students from element of postpartum remorse. After working client base is sample sized. Sadly, fashion can the Royal College of Antwerp. This is a time on something for more than six months, it is be too elitist sometimes, often economically, where members of my team and I have the tough moving on to the next collection straight though hopefully never creatively. My main opportunity to show fashion students the ins away. You do feel sad initially, but there is a basis when I work on a collection is to create and outs of running a fashion company. It is an great sense of accomplishment, too. Then, of garments that anyone can include into their own important thing as an ‘established’ designer for course, you wait to see how people will react. wardrobe. I want people to be able to mix pieces me to do, considering the years of support the This heightened sense of anticipation runs a up and make them a part of their own style. industry gave me when I was growing. When little longer until you’re fully involved with There is no better feeling than seeing someone I was selected to be president of the fashion jury the next collection.” The increasing speed of walking down the street wearing something you at the Festival d’Hyères in France last year, this fashion is not something that leaves him indif- designed in a way you wouldn’t have expected was another way for me – with the help of some ferent either. With the steady rise of mass it to be worn.” There is a generosity in Van extremely talented editors, designers and styl- clothing chains and the amount of product and Noten’s approach that does not apply to other ists – to advise younger designers on where styles out there, “designer fashion” has had to designers’ work. He is fascinated with exoticism their energies should be focused on, giving reposition itself, jump on the collective band- and foreignness, letting his fertile imagination directions to the ones we thought were the most wagon or stick to what it does best. This has led do the travelling, “The idea of different cul- promising.” They say you should never meet to more and more collections being produced tures being incorporated within my collections your heroes, but, honestly, that’s just a load of annually by luxury brands, something Van is obviously something very dear to me. I like BS if you ask me. Noten believes clearly affects the designers’ to learn more about them, through reading or creativity. “Look at all the collections people exhibitions. I guess I’m fascinated with other driesvannoten.be 40 The insider Retail Heritage Vintage Consume WELCOME TO OUR WORLD PARIS - NEW YORK 2011 WORKS BY

THE DEFINITIVE REFERENCE FOR FASHION, PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAGE MAKING, ADVERTISING, PRODUCTION AND EVENTS WWW.LEBOOK.COM All Basquiat Works Basquiat. Used by permission. L © Estate of Jean-Michel © Yassin Serghini Yassin ©

answer. When she looked at vintage stores in madras Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche dress A blast from Brussels, she noticed the wow factor was often with a fitted bust and full skirt. The tags are missing. “When I choose vintage clothes, I want still on and its condition is remarkable. In fact, Couture or iconic pieces. It has to be exception- it’s no secret designers have been plundering the past al. This is not something you find easily here and vintage clothes for years, giving their collec- I felt there was a gap in the market. Even though tions that reassuring, familiar feel. Escaping the Pièce Unique is a mecca for fashion lovers with I mix contemporary brands with older pieces, retro dance has become impossible in fashion,

a tendency to look to the past for class. Opened vintage is something I’m truly passionate about.” as every season brings images from previous icensed by Artestar, New York in January 2010 by Nathalie Gutterman – a decades. The 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s and 80s are bubbly, fun-loving French woman whom many constantly reinterpreted, even though quality refer to as “NG” – the boutique specialises in ˆ standards tend to be lower now. “The thing rare vintage finds and second-hand pieces. The about vintage is that it stands the test of time. It is 90 square meter space has a warm and friendly It’s a very small world. rare, too, which means that competition amongst feel and it hasn’t taken NG very long to get to dealers is pretty fierce. It’s a very small world. know the neighbourhood. “When I was looking If you go to clothing If you go to clothing auctions in Paris, you will for a place, a friend of mine suggested I open in auctions in Paris, you always see the same faces fighting for designer this area and I’m glad I did. I love it here. My clothes. These people hate each other's guts so original idea was to have a consignment shop will always see the same much it makes the whole scene rather comical.” with clothes from contemporary designers, but faces fighting for designer If price can be an issue for Belgians, NG also my son and I found these amazing dead stock sells to international clients who understand pieces from the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and clothes. These people hate the value of vintage, “I sold this beautiful, white Thierry Mugler. All the original tags were still each other's guts so much Courrèges coat to a young Parisian couple the attached and I decided to include them in my other day. She tried it on and he bought it for selection.” Despite the owner's sourcing skills it makes the whole scene her as a present.” This autumn, Pièce Unique and eclectic taste, Pièce Unique was not an rather comical. will expand, opening a gallery space where the overnight success “When I opened last year, I ever-resourceful NG will showcase one-off CONNECTIONS : THE CUSTOM-MADE TRADESHOW FOR ALL THOSE WHO COMMISSION CREATIVE TALENT only had vintage and hardly any clients. Most vintage, as well as selected works from innova- FOR CAMPAIGNS, EDITORIALS, CATALOGS AND OTHER VISUAL PRODUCTIONS of the pieces I showed were from the 80s and ˇ tive, upcoming artists. (PP) BERLIN people didn’t seem to get them. My very first SEPTEMBER 2011 client bought a fur coat from the 70s and I real- A quick tour of Pièce Unique's stockroom gives Pièce Unique ised there were people here who really knew and you an idea of what she means. Racks of pristine Rue Franz Merjaystraat, 167-169 LONDON appreciated vintage. In fact, this same woman vintage frocks would give any die-hard fashion 1050 Brussels WINTER 2011 still is a client and only buys Hermès scarves. fiend instant hot flushes. Courrèges, Paco She’s obsessed with them.” NG’s enthusiasm for Rabanne, Chanel and Issey Miyake are all there, LOS ANGELES extraordinary clothes is contagious and she’s as well as more recent pieces from Helmut Lang, JANUARY 2012 not the kind of woman who will take no for an Jil Sander or John Galliano. There even is a silk BY INVITATION ONLY - REGISTER AT WWW.LEBOOK.COM/CONNECTIONS WELCOME TO OUR WORLD PARIS - NEW YORK 2011 WORKS BY

CONNECTIONS : THE CUSTOM-MADE TRADESHOW FOR ALL THOSE WHO COMMISSION CREATIVE TALENT FOR CAMPAIGNS, EDITORIALS, CATALOGS AND OTHER VISUAL PRODUCTIONS BERLIN SEPTEMBER 2011 LONDON WINTER 2011 LOS ANGELES JANUARY 2012 BY INVITATION ONLY - REGISTER AT WWW.LEBOOK.COM/CONNECTIONS 42 The showstoppers Fashion Beauty Consume

One for you, one for me

We have a little bit of everything for everyone this month. We have a perfume for him, shoes for her, a bag just for her, a heavy-knit cardigan for him (although she’ll probably stretch it to the max on those crispy Sunday mornings) as well as a raincoat they might even snuggle into together if really needed. Either way, we’ve got it covered.

01. If you’re planning to take the boat out this Autumn…

S.N.S Herning is a Danish knitwear brand who’s been on the clothing racks of every self-respected ‘serious’ style boutique for the last year or so. As the story goes, the company used to manufacture outerwear for the Danish fishing industry, apparently using Latvian knitters to hand-stich their heavy-duty jumpers and cardigans. The quality and design of the garments was such that the local population started to wear the brand casually, giving it an entry into society that launched its ensuing dominance of that very peculiar of niches – unparalleled craftsmanship, a particular attention to detail and a light-heartedness that makes one melt (each piece comes with a hand-stitched label specifyi ng the name of the person who made it). Now if that didn’t sell it for you, just imagine how dapper you’ll look this winter in a tight-fitting, sturdy-looking navy blue cardigan. I bought one last winter and have literally never had as many people comment on something I wore. (NL)

S.N.S Herring. Available from Mapp (Brussels) and Houben (Antwerp). sns-herning.com Style 43

02. Faire and square

Obsessed with graphic styles and contemporary shapes, Frenchman Nicolas Ghesquière has offered consistent and directional collections at Balenciaga for more than a decade. His accessory line keeps on growing each year too, and now includes bags, shoes, jewellery and watches. The designer's sharp sense can be found in these sleek sunglasses, which are as unisex as they are timeless. In fact, plastic has never looked so good. Black shades are out this season : go for blue instead and we promise you a brighter future. (PP)

Balenciaga square frame sunglasses (¤265). Available from Louise 54 (Brussels) and Louis (Antwerp). balenciaga.com

03. Scent of a winner

Perfumes can be a tricky one to balance, especially so for men. Too fruity, and you come across as being too precious, too girly. Too strong and you come across as being too macho, too sexist. First impressions really do count you see, and the right scent is half the battle won. If you want to go a step further though, and make sure the entire battle is won well before the meet has even taken place, try Chanel’s latest perfume, Bleu de Chanel. Manly enough to reassure yet discreet enough not to overshadow, the eau de toilette – which comes in an intense blue developed especially for the bottle – is a balancing act in sensorial superiority : it’s fresh, energetic and, most important of all, self-assured. (NL)

Bleu de Chanel 100ml bottle (¤71). Available nationwide from Ici Paris XL. chanel.com

04. I’ll never let you go

If skinny jeans were the trousers that defined the first decade of this new millennium, Keds certainly were the accompanying shoes. The thing about Keds you see is their longevity. Even when worn to their ultimate limit, the street-smart sneakers manage to retain their prime positioning in our wardrobes. Fact is, although they might be drenched in festival mud or have holes in their soles the size of lunar craters, there’s nothing that’ll stop us wearing them. Not even a new pair of leather patterned, navy blue ones we, actually, could see replac- ing the white ones we’ve had since 2008 – and which aren’t remotely white anymore… Hmm… Might get the new ones after all. (NL)

Keds Veronica Navy shoe for women (¤85). Available from Fresh (Brussels) and Lux Street Fashion (Antwerp). keds.com 44 The showstoppers

05. Do you remember the time ?

K-Way. The name alone brings back memories of 8.20 am starts, playground hustles and cigarettes you didn’t even know how to smoke yet. One of those brands – similar to Walkman, Chevignon and Chippy – that forever stays imbedded in your teenage subconscious. Kind of like when you hear Roxette’s The Look on the radio and it instantly transports you back to that first kiss you managed to blag behind the school football field. What’s more, with the rain making a triumphant comeback, there’s really no better investment you could be making at the moment. (NL)

K-Way reversible jacket (¤290). Available at farfetch.com kway.be

06. Kinky heyday

The first word that comes to mind when looking at Carine Gilson's lingerie line is “exquisite”. Using the finest Chantilly lace and Lyon silks, her pieces are utterly femi- nine and hand-crafted in Belgium, exuding just the right amount of retro charm. Coloured underwear can be risky, but it avoids any vulgar connotations in Carine's hands. Her designs are destined for girls who know a thing or two about seduction and are confident enough to flaunt it. This chemise is embroidered with contrasting lace and can also be worn as a dress. Indeed, it'd be a shame to hide such beauty under layers of clothing. (PP)

Silk-satin chemise with lace (¤790). Available from Carine Gilson (Brussels). carinegilson.com

07. Bag raider

Launched by Nina Bodenhurst, Niyona reconciles great design with a functional and free-spirited essence. Bodenhurst arrived on the scene in November of last year aged 26, having first had stints with both Delvaux and Nathan-Baume. Entirely made in Belgium and working with nothing but the finest of leathers, it is her ability to respect the past whilst firmly looking to the future that attracted us to her collection in the first place. That, and her ‘Le Lewis’ bag, an oversized, rectangular-shaped holdall perfect for extended city breaks with him or her. (PP)

Niyona Lewis ‘Le Lewis’ (¤840). Available from Must (Brussels). niyona.com Go to page 96 for full stockist information.

46 The nod Play Photography Fashion

Giving in to temptation Having our girls-of-the-moment fool around in some tight-fitting hot pants is bound to make us come across as macho pigs only too willing to objectify women the way the media always has. And, whilst you may have a point, just take a minute to actually look at the images, and tell us if you don’t agree: they’re sensual, playful and, yes, attractive. So, macho pigs maybe, but macho pigs with taste.

Photographer Ismaël Moumin

Rinsed denim page short RAW correct line by G-Star Style 47

03.

04.

Left – Kenya short Wrangler / Right – Cruz short G-Star DNM 48 The nod

Right – Mini short G-Star Women / Left – Black denim short Ikks Women Style 49

Mini shorts Zadig & Voltaire

Photographer’s assistant Kelly De Block

Make up Maud Eben

Models Ine and Justine @ Jill Models Management

With special thanks to Françoise Salinger, Nina Juncker and 254 Forest Studio.

Go to page 96 for full stockist information. 50 The fashion Word Fashion Consume Photography

She’s the one wearing the pants She might come across as the shy, comfortable-in-the-background type, but make no mistake, she’s really the one keeping it all together. She’ll set the tone, decide what they listen to, where they go, who they see and, more importantly, what they wear. The pillar of the pair, her man nothing but an accessory to her own happiness and satisfaction.

Photographer Sébastien Bonin Fashion Jennifer Defays Style 51

Jean jacket Isabel Marant, Flower Indress, Gloves Hermès, Stockings Wolford Shirt Wrangler, Collar Ann Demeulemeester Megane — Jacket Wrangler, Trousers Dries Van Noten, Scarf Ann Demeulemeester Vintage Ian — Jacket Lee, Shorts Diesel, Sunglasses KTZ by Linda Farrow Jacket and jeans G-star by Marc Newson , Hat Hermès, Scarf Stylist’s own, Mittens Hugo Boss Dungarees Levi’s, Gloves Haider Ackermann Megane — Jeans jacket Gervaise Gournay, Shorts Diesel Black Gold, Necklace Maison Martin Margiela, Boots Hermès Ian — Overalls Levi’s, Sunglasses Jeremy Scott for Linda Farrow and Trainers Bernhard Willhelm for Camper Jeans Dior Homme, Pins Les Petits Riens 58 The fashion Word

Shirt Wrangler Style 59

Photographer Sébastien Bonin

Photographer’s assistant Bettina Genter

Fashion Jennifer Defays

Retouching Jonathan Steelandt

Hair and make-up Esther

Models Megane @Keens Ian @Imm

Go to page 96 for full stockist information.

Megane - Shirt Wrangler, Boots Nathalie Verlinden Ian - Jeans Dior Homme 60 The columns Talent Nostalgia Rise and shine Electronica New release

Deniz Kurtel — Since the release of her eponymous debut album ‘Music Watching Over Me’ earlier this year, rising star Deniz Kurtel’s broody and atmospheric productions have won LED installations for their parties. Being into Can you tell us the five tracks that would this kind of music for a long time, and being definitely be included in a live sets of yours the hearts and minds around friends who DJ and produce, I wanted at the moment? to try it for myself. I didn’t really have a plan to The L Word, my remix of March of No of house revival fans do it full time, or even make an album, it was Coincidence, Best Of (the new freestyle just something I got into out of curiosity and version), Love Saves the Day Remix, and the the world over. We for fun. And then Damian heard from someone M.E.S. remix I made with Gadi. that I was making music and was curious to hear recently caught up with it. That’s how I got involved with Crosstown. When and where are you at your most creative? I think when I’m moody, also when I hear her via email after a Crosstown Rebels seems like the perfect really good music. home for you. Can you talk to us about the missed opportunity dynamics within the label? How support- What’s the best/funniest thing anyone has ive was the label with this first LP? said of your music up to now? for a proper, face-to- Yeah they’ve been super supportive with That it made them cry (not funny, but defi- everything since the beginning. The LP was nitely one of the best things). face conversation at actually Damian’s idea, I didn’t even have that sort of a plan in my head, I had just started What is your favourite colour to use in your Brussels’ airport. experimenting with music. They’ve also been LED installations? How do you actually go very supportive last year when I first started about creating them? Do you start with a pen playing. I’m happy I started touring with them, and a paper, or is it all done ’on location’? When and where was your LP recorded? everything felt much safer. I use blue a lot, and usually the colder How long did it take you to record? tones of colors. I always start with pencil and (The album was made) between 2009, Do you consider yourself more of a studio paper. I draw and write and plan everything in when I first started making music, and mid or live show kind of musician? detail for a long time before I start creating it. 2010. (It) took about one and a half years. I was Definitely more as a studio musi- Because I build the whole thing myself, I have mainly in Brooklyn during this time, except cian. I started playing just to support my music. to calculate every little element that goes into for the summers, when I was in Berlin. I didn’t it ahead of time. have anything sitting in my hard drive because Can you talk to us about one of your most I had just started making music and Damian memorable parties / dj sets? What do you have planned for the summer Lazarus suggested that I make an album for him So far some of my most memorable parties and the rest of the year? after he heard the first few tracks I made, and have been my gigs at Fabric in London and This summer’s been a lot of touring and for a year after that I was working on complet- Electric Pickle in Miami. Fabric is very special collaborations with other artists. I started ing the album. for me because it’s the first place where I had working on a new album with Art Department, my LED installation properly working with my and some tracks with Tanner Ross, Voices of If I understand it right, you first started doing live show. I had it at Pacha in New York before Black, Gadi Mizrahi, Pillow Talk and Greg your LED installations at Wolf & Lamb parties, that, but there were a few problems setting it up Oreck. (The) rest of the year will be devoted then started making music, then hooked up and I don’t think the club was really suitable for to completing these projects, and more touring. with Crosstown Rebels via Damian? it. And Electric Pickle is my favorite club in I met Zev and Gadi (Wolf+Lamb) at one of the US, and even though I only started playing denizkurtel.com their first parties back in 2005 and shortly after, February of last year, I already played there crosstownrebels.com we started living together, and I was making seven times, and every time it’s been magical. wolflambmusic.com Music 61 © Yassin Serghini Yassin ©

soul, disco and early Chicago house. Then, vocals on her early records were replaced Jane’s 14 years later, my good friend Ran introduced with a raucous, deep voice, affected by years me to her again. He had just finished reading of smoking, drinking and drug use. Marianne her biography and lent me his copy. I read it puts a lot of emotion in a song when she sings it. addiction: whilst re-discovering the Broken English She has a way of spitting out the lyrics. If you album. It really moved me. I’ve always found compare her version of Working Class Hero to Marianne Marianne to be a very intriguing person. After the original one of John Lennon, you can see having read her biography, I knew she had been that hers is grittier. There’s also another song fighting addiction her whole life, yet she did it on the album where you hear her cracked voice Faithfull’s all by herself. She's a very strong person, having spitting out very aggressive lyrics “Why d’ya lived an extraordinarily difficult life. She had do it”, one of my favourites! It's definitely her Broken her first hit in 1964 with As Tears Go By, the best album according to me. I really like the first song ever written by Mick Jagger and Keith harshness, the bitterness of it. It also was very Richards. When you look at the video, you see controversial at the time of its release, the title English a very young, beautiful girl with a little, angel- song was some kind of a dedication to Ulrike like voice. After having a huge hit with the song, Meinhof, a well know terrorist. I think I must have been around eight when she got into a four year relationship with Mick I first heard Marianne Faithfull’s Broken Jagger. The couple became notorious as part of The above is part of a new series where we hand the pen over English. My dad always used to have a the swinging London scene. After their rela- to Lady Jane, and get her talking about an addiction of hers. great taste in music so I was brought up with tionship ended, she’d been living in the streets Something, someone or somewhere that is close to her heart. Marianne Faithfull, Kate Bush, Patty Smith, for years with a huge drug and alcohol addic- The Rolling Stones, Van Morrisson, Pink tion, trying to survive while being the daugh- Jane is the founder of the Catclub, Brussels’ pre-eminent Floyd, etc… But Marianne wasn't my favour- ter of a baroness. Then suddenly, after having monthly house night. She also is about to start a new night ite at the time, I was more into Kate Bush and effectively been written off as a one-hit wonder, called Black Out, and whose first date will see Permanent Carole King when I was a kid. But then as every she reappeared again in 1979 to shock every- Vacation’s Wolfram perform a live show at Tour & Taxis on normal teenager I rejected my dad's music and one with this dark masterpiece. It also revealed 17th September. Make sure to pencil it in. went my own way, listening to a lot of northern a dramatic change to her voice. The melodic catclub.be 62 The columns

Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs

The last thing you could accuse Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs, known as Orlando Higginbottom to his friends and family, is that he didn’t think long and hard about his stage name. Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs. You ain’t about to forget that one now, are you? And, to be honest, even if his name was, say Benny Blando or some other form of industry-constructed ‘brand name’, his output would ensure he remained firmly at the top of your music chain. ‘Garden’, latest single ‘Trouble’ (”it’s about trying to get with someone and knowing that whatever happens, it’s always going to turn out wrong”) and, our favourite, ‘Household goods’ all have this uncanny ability to stay engraved in your mental playlist. One listen, and you find yourself humming the track’s vocals or its baseline for the rest of the day. Ever since creeping up on to the scene a few years ago with his first EP on Greco Roman Records (Joe ‘Hot Chip’ Goddard’s berlin- based label), the rosy-cheeked, Oxfordshire talent has been building up considerable industry credit, as much for his danceable, melodious electro than for his memorable live © Yana Foqué shows – complete with dancers wearing dinosaur costumes. Initially the whole thing grew out of sheer boredom. TEED (the abbrevi- ˆ synths and even a vegetable patch. “Studio’s ated version of his world record-worthy stage are absolutely essential. I think all producers name) was “a reaction against deejaying,” and I like the idea of things will agree with me on that. You have to feel good people that forgot what dancing was all about. about where you are and you have to want to be His work shares a lot of similarities with dance falling apart and chaos. in that room. Almost committed, because god music from the nineties: the heavy juicy basses, Everything can be, knows how much time you will spend there.” the synths (naturally) and the enchanting He obviously likes spending time there – three vocals. There’s nostalgia too, lots of it: “When no is, part of the music. EP’s worth of time. “I do everything myself. I was young there were some albums I’d listen Sometimes the feedback I like the way I work, like I did before.” All this to A LOT. For six months I would just listen serves to imbue his songs with a carnival-like to one album. Unkel’s debut album Psyence is the best aspect of essence and in the live performances. It’s a Fiction (1998), early jungle music,” and those a show. Cagean thing. “I like the idea of things falling early influences can still be found in the music apart and chaos. Everything can be, no is, part he’s making today. “There’s also something of the music. Sometimes the feedback is the about the sound and production of that time. ˇ best aspect of a show. Music shouldn’t be too The naivety of some of the dance records that precise. All these influences infuse his music were produced back then that is inimitable.” nights inspire him too. “There’s two reasons for with an eclectism unlike any other: one minute But there’s more than the 90s to his music. For that: going out and listening to music is always he’s singing profoundly (as on ‘Trouble’). The starters, he gets his inspiration through a lot of inspiring – even when it inspires you in a bad next he’s belting out a dancefloor banger (as on channels. Records that nobody would expect way – you want to go home and make your own Sickly Child). (YF) him to have: classical music, Motown, eastern thing. Also, I find good creativity in being tired. European folk music and Japanese traditional In tiredness you are in a more open and relaxed TEED is currently working on his debut album on Polydor music. “In general, I’ve got some weird stuff,” he atmosphere.” And by ‘relaxed atmosphere’ he Records. His favourite dinosaur is the Iguanodon. says. And in his line of business it helps that late means his studio, where he keeps his many myspace.com/totallyenormousextinctdinosaurs Music 63

Hype’ em and t yp e ’ em

You could do worse than allow Leuvenite law- student-come-blogger Jarri Van der Haegen choose your desert island discs. Disco Naiveté, the music blog he founded in October 2009 and which today clocks up an impressive 75,000 unique monthly visitors, is his intimate universe, a curated blog roll of videos, MP3s and imbedded players with no particular musical allegiance. The playlist features yards of mis- cellany, from the indie pop of Twin Sister and Grizzly Bear, to Beach House’s dream pop, Joanna Newsom's harp, the bouncy beats of M.I.A. and even the androgynous voice of Antony and the Johnsons. The blogosphere is packed with a cache of freebie music, from the “hits” (whatever that means) to genuinely bizarre new quote unquote music, and Jarri is just another geek on the horizon hyping the his activity – a couple of posts per day, at least. who tells someone what feeling or atmosphere bands he dearly loves by digging deep for those As refreshing as the other side of a pillow on a a song should create, that's up to the listener.” hard-to-find covers, radio sessions and b-sides clammy autumn night, Jarri addresses his dis- You’re damn right. Add to that some thought- – a cover of Chris Isaak’s Wicked Game by ciples in a rare, unfussed and genuine voice. ful mix tapes and soft interviews with main- Washed Out for example. Happily, he peddles Here's a sample of what the disco don had to say stream-eschewing alt-musos (We have band, his “Play” buttons without tempering our enjoy- about SSION's new LP, BENT: “Very recom- Cocknbullkid and Local natives to name a few), ment with saccharine sweet copywriting or death mended: it’s fun, danceable, gay’ish pop in a and you've got yourself a new bookmark. (RK) by description. His is a less-is-more approach to non-Britney way, etc etc etc.” This “etc etc etc” blogging, accentuated only by the frequency of is not a cop out. “I don't want to be the person disconaivete.com

Ghostpoet There are so many things to like about Ghostpoet’s debut album ‘Peanut Butter Blues & Melancholy Jam’ (Brownswood Recordings, 2011) that it’s hard to know where to begin. There’s that very British blend of self-depreci- ation – constant downplays and self-mockeries. There’s the hypnotic, lazy baritone voice – at times slurry, as though the 27-year-old MC’s repeatedly falling over himself. The distorted and distant bass line that echoes in the background, constructing and carrying each song – so present you’d be forgiven for thinking that Ghostpoet is sometimes nothing but an accessory to the bass. The broody, atmospheric and at times even tempestuous moods – character traits symptomatic of someone having recently © Yana Foqué moved from the idyllic city of Coventry in the West Midlands to the oppressive megalopolis of London. The eternal repetitions – rallying heard that on the TV program, so it must be intimacy even, of his offbeat delivery - never cries of desolate desperation for a confused and right, right, right, right,” he sings on the album quite marching to the beat, like he’s always jilted generation of the unheard that manage to opener One Twos/Run Run Run. There’s the running late. And that there is exactly what warrant your utmost attention. The many ram- undercurrent of downbeat humour – witty carries it home. (NL) blings on the ironies of modern life – “Run and twisted yet customarily insightful. Then, away, be a real man and fight another day, I most endearing of all, there’s the humanity, ghostpoet.co.uk 64 The columns

Slove Slove is playful. It’s sexy and suggestive. It teases you. Even leads you on sometimes. It’s highly addictive too. Like that girlfriend of yours you spent all night with, and still want more. Slove. Slow + Love as we find out when we speak with Léo Hellden and Julien Barthe, the two men behind what is arguably one of the most exciting albums to come out of Paris this year. Music 65

A lot has been made about the recent revival peace of mind, with doing something you really What is both you guys’ background? Have the French music scene is going through, love doing, something very positive for your you always worked in the music industry? especially so in the indie/electro/house well being. The “si tu as un plan cheval, let me What were you doing before Slove? scene. Where do you feel you fit into this, know,” I guess, is a bit ironic, not sexual, but Julien: I studied graphic design and used to given that, although very French in some more like “let's make shit happen.” play bass and guitars in an indie pop band until ways, your overall sound seems to lean more 1993, then discovered DJing in 1995. I started towards the other side of the Atlantic… Can you talk to us about the various different to produce singles as Plaisir de France on Pro Julien: I think our melody and sounds people involved in the making of the album? Zak Tax record in 2000. come from the UK’s beats and sequence Julien: In the beginning, Léo and me started Léo: I started in 1997 as a guitarist with scene, but also from “savoir faire” old school pop songs which tilted towards dance music and Swedish singer Jay Jay Johanson and worked house and a very French touch for sampling… we suggested them to singers we knew… with him for about five years. Since then, I've worked on different projects and moved gradu- One of the things I like the most about Le ally into composition and production. I worked Danse is the drums. They’re rhythmic, come in for some time for antiquarian booksellers first at the right moment and always provide just the in Stockholm and later in Paris. Right now I’m right amount of tempo to a song’s backbone. not doing it anymore but wouldn’t mind doing I particularly think they hit the right spot on so again at some point. Carte Postale. Who does the drumming? Julien: I mostly take care of the drums, Can you tell us a little about the atmos- mixing real drum samples with techno drums. phere in the studio whilst recording? Where was the LP recorded? How long Who does what in the band? How do you did it take? Did you develop any routines/ go about composing a track? habits (good or bad) whilst recording? Julien: Positions aren’t fixed. Sometimes Léo L. We share a studio in Paris and spend suggests a melody and I’ll respond or vice versa. much time there talking and making music. The Slove album took about two years and an Carte Postale is probably the most fun-loving intense six months of finalising. yet sexy track I’ve heard in some time. Somehow, I imagine 30-something bored housewives Who are you listening to at the moment? wearing headbands all working out a sweat to What's the last album you bought? Were the song. The vocals couldn’t be any simpler, yet ˆ you listening to anything in particular they seem laced with ‘insider’ references. Who whilst recording the album? is singing? What’s with the number counting? I’m just happy that I was Julien: At the moment I’m listening to indie And, most importantly, what’s with the “Si tu pop, lots of edits and electronic dance music. as un plan cheval, let me know”? I assume it is around when she recorded The last album I bought is the soundtrack for telling that the counting stops at 69… it. When she’s recording "My Little Princess” by Bertrand Burgalat Léo: The singer is Anne-Laure from and Mogwai. During the album’s record- Appaloosa. We contacted her after hearing she puts herself in a state, ing sessions, I was listening to a lot of house The Day. For us it's a perfect pop song. I'm not an out of body experience, revival from Mark E , Eddie C, Noze, as well sure about what she meant with the lyrics. I’m just as edits and remixes from Joakim, Pilooski, happy that I was around when she recorded it. and I don't think that Superpitcher, Inflagranti, Cosmo vitelli, Get a When she’s recording she puts herself in a state, neither me nor Julien room and Datassette. an out of body experience, and I don't think that neither me nor Julien expected that style but were expected that style but When and how did you guys meet? both amazed. It was intended as a demo but we were both amazed. Léo: First time we know of is at Sonar basically didn’t touch the song after her recording in 2005. We were playing in the same party, to not fuck up the presence of the performance. Julien with Sweetlight and me with Aswefall. Anne-Laure Keib: This song, I was back ˇ Some years later we met again in Julien’s from a trip to Camargue, South of France. I took studio. I was renting the studio next door on a this trip after someone dear to me, died. He was You have several projects you’re working short term basis to finish the second Aswefall someone very destructive. I arrived in the most on at the same time. Can you tell us a little album. We ended up sharing Julien's studio lovely place, near Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, more about them? and started making music together. owned by a British woman, and it was eight Léo: Tristesse Contemporaine is a project hours of horse backriding, everyday, for three with Mike (also on Slove) and Narumi, a Japanese What’s in store for you until the end of the year? weeks, and it was amazing. One of the happiest keyboardist and vintage clothes shop owner. We Julien: Good remixes of fFash and a moments of my life actually. When I came back, just completed our first album, produced by release of two Plaisir de France remixes of a Leo and Julien asked me to write a song and sing Pilooski. As for Aswefall, which I do together French 80's band Mikado. for them. They were into the stuff I have been with Clement, our second album came out last doing for my band, Appaloosa. I was in front of year. We’re working on new songs now and hoping the mic and started to count. I guess this count- it doesn't take five years until the next one. Slove’s debut album is out now on Pschent. ing is about when you go through borderline or Julien: I'm always running Plaisir de France, plaisirdefrance.net/artistes/slove painful experiences, and find a stability and remixing many French pop personal hits. pschent.com 66 The throw - away project Talent We love Festival Backstage

Civil Civic A guitar, a bass, keyboards and one big, fuck off beat machine are all this Australian duo exiled in Europe need. The fun loving criminals, in Belgium over the summer as the headlining act to Liege/Luik’s Microfestival, fill loudspeakers with their deafening yet melodious math rock. Layers upon layers of sounds which, inevitably, draws comparisons to Battles. High-octane, take-no-prisoners rockers who dutifully took on the challenge of going through one of our disposable cameras without returning it with nothing but crotch shots. An exception to the rule – in every sense of the term.

With thanks to Damien Aresta Music 67

myspace.com/civilcivic Visit thewordmagazine.be/radar/civilcivic for the band’s complete throw-away project. 68 The DESIGN Special street-facing shopfront lies the real heart of heart real the lies shopfront street-facing ofthe feel residential the November. Behind last Fabrika La opened only who for Claessens 2010, coup abad Awards not is Design British the Year in the of Designer nominated Wilson, as such of a luminary involvement the Getting pouffes. and cushions knitted armchairs, sofas, with talents show Wilson’s wider will Fabrika La cushions, animal scary-cutesy knitted, her for Best-known festival. ofthe duration for the Wilson Donna designer Scottish of works the colour, of showcasing ariot into transformed be will window the September Come story. the of afraction only is Dansaertstraat A. Rue ionable fash Brussels’ of canal-end edgier, the at façade glass single The design. interior and furniture of collection curated carefully its than bigger is Fabrika La design. selling ashop just than more symbolises blue banner pale The year. this door above her fair, design annual city’s the September, Design of prism triangular the hang will Fabrika, La of founder no-nonsense but unassuming the Claessens, Kelly Brussels, in shopkeepers design-focussed good all Like La Fabrika © Veerle Frissen - wall-mounted ply display boxes to celebrate celebrate to boxes ply display wall-mounted angular, with hung are space industrial ment semi-base large the of walls The Fabrika. La underway. “It needed real guts to just jump into into jump just to guts real needed “It underway. currently projects residential two with services design interior bow, its to offering second-string a has Fabrika La partner, long-term Claessens’ Deneufbourg. Together with Deneufbourg, Benoît designer of studio the of overview ing atempt is ply wall rear the in slot a cut-out through visible partially only and space main the of back the At point. price high their also but tricky times delivery making finishes of choice wide and qualities bespoke their to due products Edition Interni stocking not currently example, for Claessens, with financially and literally taken is Availability year. last released Diaz Stefan from chair lounge Eugene the of simplicity laid-back the to Ercolan by Lucia Bench Love the of design 1956 Shaker-inspired the from ranges that Achoice BarberOsgerby. by cabinets Satellite the of lacquer bright the and Hilton Matthew from Sofa Oscar the of ness homeli low-slung the includes that selection the of Claessens explains elsewhere,” find to easy not are that items with One chosen. Ihave what is collection’ “An ‘available products. individual The D The E SIGN Speci SIGN al - - - the retail experience,” confides Claessens, “but “but Claessens, confides experience,” retail the lafabrika.be 1000 Brussels 182 Dansaertstraat, A. Rue Fabrika La (GD) do. clients Claessens’ you or it don’t you get and Either sold by Ikea. four-legged version siderably more affordable con the with compared for Artek Aalto Alvar by 60 Stool three-legged simple the of heritage the as straightforward as be might that Stories Claessens. explains selling,” Iam objects the behind story the appreciate clients “My able. remark is existence brief Fabrika’s La given ity exclusiv gaining doing; some takes Ercol and SCP both for stockist Belgian first the Being Euros. of thousands worth tables with ble risk formida a more but apples selling you are if Manageable non-sale. of event the in supplier the to recourse any without stock her all chases pur She life. shop of realities the to window shop on-line her from progressed seamlessly has Claessens excitement,” with down and up jumping literally were “they visitors, first her of reactions positive the by Gratified myself.” than stronger was that urge overwhelming I felt an 69 - - - - - 70 The design papers © Joke De Wilde

useful once. The gallery is Veerle’s dream stage Hannes Van Severen. The artists, a sculptor Part of the for functional, beautiful things. “I wanted to and a photographer, changed their medium at be in the centre.” she says. “I didn’t want to be Veerle’s behest, and created a suite of book- in a hype area, like Zuid, but among ordinary cases and shelves using marble and plastic. “It’s furniture people. When you walk out the door, there are amazing to see people doing something they rich people, poor people, people who are into never did before. It gives a lot of energy to me Breezing through the atrium of Veerle Wenes’ art and people who are not…” Once a nunnery and to them.” She adds “It’s not really art. It’s new-ish gallery in Antwerp feels a lot like arriv- (her neighbours to the back are still in the habit), made for using, but it’s beautiful.” A door swings ing a bit too early for a housewarming in an the gallery is surrounded by an ivy-covered open onto a chic dining room, like the pages of exquisite new home. Design furniture is strewn medieval church. “We restored the entire build- a glossy design mag flicking open. “I live here, about like actors in a conversation. It’s unclear if ing,” she says of the former furniture showroom. too.” says Veerle. “I don’t want a gallery where they’re part of the latest exhibition or if they’re There is certainly something of a showroom I open the door at 11 o’clock and close it at 7, leftovers from a recent spring cleaning bout. about the gallery. There is something of the a sterile, concrete place with no life. Living and Case in point: we’re not entirely sure whether sanctity of the church within this space, too. working have to mix, what I do in my private to stack our things on them or just gaze admir- It’s the stained glass looming over the patio, it’s life is much the same thing as what I do in my ingly. We do both. Veerle doesn’t seem to mind. the intense calm. That odd visitor, the church, work life.” We ask about the upstairs terrace, Everything in the Valerie Traan (Valerie is lends solemnity to our shuffling between things a closed, pebble-covered square secluded by Veerle’s full name, and Traan means teardrop, that are all the more attractive for being useful. tall walls and dotted with plants and loungers. if you were wondering where the name comes Her roster of talent has so far come largely from “It’s a beautiful space, but I haven’t sat out there from) gallery is, or was, or could be, func- Belgium (Bram Boo, Diane Steverlynck, Muller since opening in November, I’m too busy” she tional. And beautiful – the great balancing act van Severen and Studio Simple to name a few), confesses. (RK) between art and design. “There must always be although this is no national sport for Veerle. a practical application for the pieces I exhibit. “I don’t care where the artists come from. I select Fien Muller and Hannes Van severen will be exhibiting You must be able to use it, or it must talk about those whose work I like, but I also have to like their furniture project at Jerome Sohier from 8th September utility in art. The last exhibition by Goele De the people because we go through a period of to 1st October. Bruyn was 100 used bars of soap laid out like intensive working together.” The current exhi- valerietraan.be an archaeological find.” The soap, she says, was bition is by a Flemish couple, Fien Muller and jeromesohier.com

72 The intrusion Talent Interiors

Pol Quadens

Some people need their commute to work to wake up, whilst others much prefer merely having to go down a flight of stairs to make it on time for nine. And, with his sprawling 600 square meter loft- come-atelier industrial conversion, it’s safe to say Pol Quadens firmly belongs to the latter. “Living with my designs helps (shape) my thinking process,” says the designer when we meet to discuss the merits of living where you work. “I can draw upstairs, and instantly create downstairs,” he continues, motioning towards a sink he designed and made himself, and which he obviously is particularly proud of (it came up twice in our hour-long conversation). Sitting at one of his Corian dining tables, talking about the way in which he likes to bring a new piece he designed up from the studio and ‘live with it’ for a couple of days upstairs in his loft, it becomes apparent Pol’s output and overall oeuvre (his more recent work has been taking a closer step towards art than design) is deeply defined by his surroundings. This is a man that lives by extension. A man who, to put it in his own words, “lives how he works and works how he lives.” We step into his singular set-up to see if indeed you can mix work and pleasure.

Photographer Veerle Frissen The DESIGN Special 73

Pol Quadens has an exhibition running at the Mercedes House in Brussels, from 9th to 25th September 2011.

polquadens.com mercedeshouse.be 74 The invitation Talent Behind-the-scenes

Open door policy The world of designers can sometimes be an intriguing one. One that, for one reason or the other, draws you in and makes you want to know more. How, you wonder, do they get to the end result? How do they actually do what they do? And where do they do it? What do their studios look like? What tools and machinery do they work with? Are their office walls covered with scribbled-on post-its and patent applications or are they more the folders classified alphabetically on their iMacs type? We visit four Belgian design practices’ studios and discover a world not that much different than what we had imagined – sketches and unfinished prototypes lying about, all types of materials at arms’ reach and, most importantly, an FM radio.

Photographer Sarah Eechaut The DESIGN Special 75

Maarten Deceular

“We’ve been in this space since last summer only. It's a temporary thing since we have to move out by the end of November at the latest unfortunately. We all got really attached to the space, even though rain drips in buckets spread out across the studio and in winter it is freezing cold. But the space 'feels' so nice. When it's sunny there's a ter- rific atmosphere in there. It's a five-minute walk from my house, so for me the location couldn't be better. The entire space is about 500-600 square metres, and my 'corner' in it would be around 75 square metres. I also quite like the neighbourhood, Place Bethlehem for example, is wonderful to have dinner at on summer evenings, there's also one of the best pizzeria's in the whole of Brussels. The building used to be a furniture factory that went bankrupt. We found the office in the same state as the previous owners left it, everything still quite intact, catalogues and unpaid bills everywhere, personal things like children’s’ drawings, unopened mail,… Collages of the furniture they produced, together with images from magazines were hanging on the walls, self-made shelv- ing (which we are using now) everywhere. We have a very flexible studio, everything depends on the projects we're working on. Sometimes there are three tables, sometimes only one.”

maartendeceulaer.com 76 The invitation

Raphael Charles

“The studio was founded in 2007 and is located in the Koekelberg district of Brussels. I live in one of the city’s last dead end streets – old worker houses, quiet surroundings, like a small village. My neighbours are people who work at Medecins sans frontières, a taxi driver, a lorry driver, a pianist…”

raphaelcharles.com

Studio Simple

“Studio Simple stands for objects and projects who have a clear relation with simplicity and time, local production and resources; hence a combination of what can be found nearby and something new, focusing on design footprint awareness.The name Studio Simple means ‘creativity rules, keep it simple and D.I.Y’. The studio was founded in 2007, in Ghent. It is located in a coal merchant’s house dating back to 1900. It still has the original stables. We spend the most time in the atelier part of the studio, which has 300 square metres.” studiosimple.be The DESIGN Special 77

Tom Mares

“My studio is located near Rue Antoine Dansaertstraat, downtown Brussels, near the canal between the city centre and Molenbeek. I’ve been here for a year, but founded my practice in 2007. The building is occupied by a melting pot of dancers, sound engi- neers and all other kinds of creative types. The neighbourhood too is a melting pot of creativity and different cultures. It’s interest- ing to see the night shops and telephone shops combined with fancy art galleries and trendy boutiques. wearenodesign.be

Atelier 4/5

“Atelier 4/5 provides an alternative to the mass production of furniture in creating unique furniture and lamps made from items found at flea markets. We founded the practice in a bar in 2009 and have a studio in the centre of Brussels, close to Place Anneessens. The studio is one big open plan space with different zones… One to paint, one to stock all the furniture found at the flea market, one to work and one to expose our finished work.

atelier4cinquieme.be

Visit thewordmagazine.be/wonders/opendoorspolicy for our complete series on designer studios. 78 The round-up Industry Innovation Consume Passion

Online design galleries With its high rent and exorbitant stock costs, it is no surprise that the world of design is no different when it comes to online convergence. Ebay swarms with hawkers pushing their Eames chairs, Designaddict is full of design galleries flogging their wares whilst the most courageous have branched out on their own, opening their very own online shop fronts. Here, we turn our attention to those dealers and gallery owners who have opted for clicks, visits and Paypal payments instead of noisy tills, rigid opening hours and unpredictable footfall.

Writer Nicholas Lewis Photographer Sarah Eechaut The DESIGN Special 79

City furniture several years on ebay, I grew tired of working for them, because that is essentially what With over 14 years in the game, it’d be fair you do,” he continues, as way of explaining to say that city-furniture.com founder Lenz why he decided to branch out on his own. Vermeulen is a pioneer. Having first started Several years later, his website city-furiture. buying up furniture on Brussels’ flea market com clocks up an impressive 300,000 page to re-sell it on ebay, he quickly moved on views per month, and has without a doubt to opening up his own gallery on Antwerp’s become a force to be reckoned with in the Klosterstraat aged 24. “It failed. My knowl- online vintage design world. And this is no edge wasn’t good enough and I couldn’t surprise, given the appeal his website exudes, survive on it at the time,” reveals the straight- the strength of his collection but also, more talking dealer. He then took a step back, importantly, the hard work put into it: “Most realising his knowledge of design needed to of my time is spent on sourcing and photo- be perfected if he was going to make a living graphing pieces, as well as on search engine out it. Having grown up with design his whole optimisation and Facebook,” he continues, life (his grandfather owned a lighting shop in fully aware of the power of the web to further Antwerp), it wasn’t long before Lenz was back his venture. on his feet, this time focusing all his energy on the web, and ebay more specifically. “At the city-furniture.be time, it was the best way to ensure my collection could be seen around the world but, after 80 The round-up

Be-dsgn

By day, Philip Logie and Bart Dujardin are languages and economics teach- ers respectively. By night, the pair shape-shift into vintage design dealers. And, although the term ‘dealer’ might be too harsh a word to describe the duo (think of them more as design enthusiasts), there’s no denying the two friends (they’ve known each other since their teens, teach at the same school and even owned a team-building company together in their former lives) possess a sharp commercial nous. Their collection (mid-priced, ‘easy’ pieces aimed more at design beginners than seasoned collectors), reveals a knack for knowing what the people want, and knowing how they want it. The website’s navigation is clean-lined, photography is immaculate (it’s all done in-house, by Philippe himself) whilst the site’s design couldn’t be any more enticing. As far as periods go, the online gallery essentially operates in the 1950s-1990s range, whilst also making a particular effort to champion obscure Belgian designers (which explains the website’s clumsy yet explanatory name). Case in point, when we meet, Philippe (the gallery’s buyer) suddenly came to life when talking about his love of De Coene (the Kortrijk- based licensed manufacturers for Knoll that declared bankruptcy back in the 1970s), Novalux’s Rudy Verelst and Georges-Charles Vanrijk. “Belgian design is very badly documented, and some people (wrongly) equate that with a lack of quality.” says Philippe, who came back to the importance of archiving and documenting several times during our conversation. Vintage design retailers, yes, but with an educational approach.

be-dsgn.com

Jimmy Beyens

Jimmy Beyens moves in the upper echelons of design dynasty. The 23 year old, surprisingly confident for his age, founded his upper crust online gallery two years ago, on the back of his father urging him to do so. Housed in a magnificent villa just 15 minutes north east of Brussels, his collection tilts towards the exclusive and hard-to- find – pieces with a story. The trained architect and interior designer, conscious of the hard-nosed and sometimes uppity world of vintage design, first took it upon himself to self-document, doing his homework by reading tome after tome of design books to spruce up (perfect even) his design knowledge. “I spent hours, sometimes even nights, reading up all kind of material,” confesses the fresh-faced entrepreneur. And it shows. With a slight preference for seating, his Scandinavian-tinted collection clearly speaks to the initiated (the collectors, resellers and interior architects), buyers for whom a 14,000 euros price tag is nothing compared to the satisfaction they’ll get out of sitting at their 1959 Kho Liang Le-designed three piece lounge unit that used to be part of the fixtures and fittings at the old Rolls Royce headquarters, and even comes with a metal plate as proof. Now if that doesn’t warrant a premium, what does? jimmybeyens.com The DESIGN Special 81

Alainko to his heart: French and Belgian design. “This is because I have easier access to them A social and political studies graduate, you geographically…I guess this geographical could say Alain Hens stumbled into design by reality is an important thing in my business.” accident. The 31 year old first got a foothold Asked why he opted for an online gallery as in the design field on the suggestion of a friend opposed to a physical one: “I still ask myself of his who was also flogging pieces he found this question everyday…The client potential at flea markets on ebay. The more Alain sold was and still is so tremendous. If I have an on ebay, the more he got a sense for where the item that has been viewed about 900 times in demand really was – vintage design. Being one week (on my website), I wonder how many at the time in the middle of a Masters at times that same item would have been seen university, he persuaded the administration in a shop during a week… 56 times maybe?” to let him use the basement as an office-come- With a refreshingly laidback and unpreten- warehouse, marking the first beginnings tious approach to his online dealings, it is the of Alainko (“The name was suggested to length at which Alain goes to to get his pieces me by ebay when I first signed up,” he says that distinguishes him from the rest. Once, anecdotally “as Alain was already taken he managed to bag a lot of 200 chairs from and I didn’t want Alain 69.”). Describing a Dutch contact in exchange for a crate of his online gallery as a bridge between the Duvel and a pudding pie. Priceless. ordinary and extraordinary with a wide net of interest, Alainko specialises in what is closest galeriealainko.com 82 The design showstoppers

Man Vs machine From industrially-engineered machines to hand- made crafts, we’ve touched upon the entire spectrum of the design industry with this month’s selection of design novelties.

Photographer Melika Ngombe

For book keeping

Coffee tables primarily serve as a presentation display for your lingering collection of magazines of the month, yet none have ever incorporated their purpose as astutely as this 100 percent Belgian-made one. Taking the concept of meaningful integration to new heights, designer Antoinette Ribas manages to make magazines part of the table, using their spines to bring a rainbow of colours to the table’s top. Made of a 2mm sheet of steel that’s been folded, cut out and lacquered, the table is a godsend for media junkies incapable of sifting through their monthly subscriptions.

Tablemag (¤ 725). Available from Rose (Brussels). thetablemag.com

For sitting

Being more fascinated with what the past has to say than what the future has to offer comes with certain drawbacks: often, the furniture pieces we love so much simply aren’t available anymore. Passing time, it can have a destructive effect on one’s passion you see, and leave you in a constant state of frustration. Not if denim imprint G-Star RAW and German design deity Vitra have anything to do with it though. Indeed, the pair have just joined forces to re-edit a collection of 19 Jean Prouvé-designed pieces (everything from stools, chairs and coffee tables) under the Prouvé RAW banner, re-igniting a fiery debate in the design world about the merits of creating and producing new ‘stuff’ when the old one is so effortlessly beautiful. The collection only actually hits stores come October, so we had to make do photographing its exquisite press pack for the moment. Can’t wait for the real thing though.

Prouvé RAW collection (from ¤ 575). Available from Vitrapoint (Brussels and Antwerp). g-star.com The DESIGN Special 83

For tea time

There’s not a lot that Muuto can do wrong in Word HQ. The playful and poignant Nordic design firm, always one to see the funnier side in life, operates on the fringes of the design world, never taking itself too seriously and always daring to go a step further in bringing a smile to your face. True to form, its Bulky tea set, designed by Swede Jonas Wagell, is the perfect, quirky addition to the table top. Packing the right kind of curves in all the right places, and with a colour palette with sunny dispositions, we guarantee rooms full of laughter if this is what you’ll be serving tea in.

Muuto Bulky tea pot (¤ 69), tea cups (¤ 29 for the pair) and sugar bowl (¤ 29). Comes in white, grey and yellow. Available from Design District (Leuven). muuto.com

For grooming

With all the attention our facial hair has been getting of late (we’ve recently discovered the merits of clean-shaven appearances), it’s only normal that we thought it high time to upgrade our toolbox and go professional. Thing is, there’s only so much your usual, run-of-the-mill shaver can do and, if shape-shifting ‘staches or quirky sideburns are your thing, you’ll need to get serious about your machinery. And there is no more serious about facial hair than Braun’s latest range of hair-toning shavers and trimmers, the CruZer range. Precise and playful, Braun’s CruZer range (which includes a Beard&Head device as well as a Face device) is not only your best shot at achieving style supremacy when it comes to facial fantasies, it’s also one of the rare shavers that’ll actually look as good as the style it carves out.

Braun CruZer Beard & Head and Facial. braun.com/cruzer

For reading

What is it about denim brands and design? All of a sudden, jean makers seem to have caught the design bug, preferring their moulds to their stitches and their prototypes to their samples. More often than not though, denim brands’ foray into design leads to disaster, essentially because of the former’s lack of experience in the field. As in anything, you need a partner with experience to make things work, a fact Diesel seems to have understood. Partnering up with Italian lightning supremo Foscarini, the flashy denim maker has created a range of luminaries of all sorts to suit the needs of its statement-making loving masses.

Diesel Fork Lamp by Foscarini (Price available on request). Available from Espace Bizarre (Brussels). diesel.foscarini.com 84 The shelf Arts Photography Publishing

Pictures speak louder than words You’d think that three months of holidays would have convinced us to pick up a ‘proper’ book – you know, fiction, philosophy or what not – and finally get into some ‘adult’ reading. Not really, still very much into fine art photography books, although we did give the selection a slightly more, lets say, educational lean this time – just to keep the intellectuals happy.

Writer Nicholas Lewis Photographer Yana Foqué

Places, Strange and Quiet (2011) In a Lonely Place (2011) Behind the Zines: by Wim Wenders by Gregory Crewdson Self-Publishing Culture (2011) Hatje Cantz Hatje Cantz Gestalten

At times intriguing, at others downright Best known for his highly staged, film-like However limited their print run, the impact hilarious, Wim Wenders’ photography photography, Crewdson also has a more inti- self-published fanzines have had on the growth captures the everyday absurdities he mate and intuitive side to his work, one which of certain counter-cultures and musical move- encounters on his many travels – everything somehow seems more improvised and less ments make them the undeniable and ultimate from oversized cowboys sporting Wrangler restrained. Although the celebrated photog- voice of independent thinking. The precursor denim skirts to windowless backyard sheds rapher shot to prominence with his sometimes to blogs, what really distinguished these home- and deserted former submarine assembly glacial series Beneath the Roses (2003-2008), made, low budget boutique publications was plants. With characteristic wit, the cel- Crewdson manages to counter his tendency their approach to art direction, graphic design ebrated filmmaker creates visual statements towards the pre-determined with rather more and production. Antiquated print presses were on non-descript places which draw meaning personal series such as Sanctuary (2009), a preserved merely to achieve a particular finish, not from their subject matter but, rather, black and white documentary which captures paper stocks mixed-and-matched to rainbow from Wenders’ watchful gaze, and the notes Fellini’s famed Cinecitta studios in Rome, effect, 3D typefaces created out of pure ‘zine accompanying each photograph. Opposite a or Fireflies (1996), which reflects the artist’s zeal and binding techniques so advanced even photograph depicting a Bavarian policeman interest in nature. In each of the series though, the Japanese couldn’t catch up. An exhaus- looking onto Italian activists running amok Crewdson’s ability to contrast an overriding tive, well put together and, above all, accurate through a field for example, the sentence sense of sadness with an unquestionable and survey of the culture in itself, Behind the zines reads: “The G8 in Germany…Protesters ran somewhat naïve beauty remains the unsettling manages to succinctly capture the movement’s through the fields, Italian activists carrying a element that makes of his visual aesthetic essence without reading like a how to guide. sign PACE. A Bavarian policeman turned to one of the most innovative in contemporary his colleague: “Look, these idiots don’t even photography today. know how to spell PEACE.”” It’s simple, Jeff Wall, The Crooked Path (2011) self-explanatory and works wonders. Pure Bozar Books and Ludion Wenders. Global Denim (2011) by Daniel Miller & The accompanying book to the Canadian pho- Sophie Woodward tographer’s monumental exhibition of the same From Polaroid to Impossible (2011) Berg Publisher name currently on show at Brussels’ Bozar, Hatje Cantz The Crooked Path represents Wall’s attempt to The dominance denim enjoys over other make sense of his body of work in a very public Along with the demise of the Polaroid textiles in the fashion industry is unparalleled. manner by contextualising it, confronting it Corporation came the realisation that its leg- It’s a natural monopoly of the global uniform, even, to the works of his contemporaries and endary Polaroid Collection housed in New one which has rarely been investigated. From icons. Using as starting point a simple picture York and Europe would need to be auctioned the streets of Mumbai and the back alleys of of a landscape, Wall proceeds to historically off to pay angry creditors and administrators. Mexico City to the urban townships of middle reference his work – large-scale photography Aghast, a movement made of artists, museums America and the rural villages of central framed in light boxes for the most part - opting and photography lovers and led by the Africa, nothing says effortless cool the way for total transparency as far as inspiration goes: Polaroid-perfected artist Chuck Close came a pair of jeans does – be they boot cuts, slim he makes no secret, for example, of having to life, mobilising itself to ensure preserva- fits or baggies. But what, exactly, makes them taken inspiration from Delacroix’s La Mort tion of the 16,000-strong collection which so ubiquitous? What is their anthropological de Sardanapale for The Destroyed Room, his includes instant photography by the likes of meaning when taken in their local contexts? 1978 depiction of a ransacked room. And that is Ansel Adams, Robert Mapplethorpe, Andy At times a heavy read that can make you feel the beauty of Wall’s work: conscious of its debt Warhol and Helmut Newton. The group like you’re back at college, Global Denim uses to the past, but keen to translate it for the future. succeeded in its quest to avoid a sale, and this the Great Depression, Bollywood screenings book is the result of their perseverance. and Rio de Janeiro’s funk balls to reach a set of Visit thewordmagazine.be/dribbles/theblackbooks conclusions explaining the unquestionable rise for more photographs of the books as well as Amazon of denim as the global garment of the world. purchase links. Culture 85

 From left to right From Polaroid to Impossible (Hatje Cantz), Jeff Wall (Bozar Books and Ludion), Global Denim (Berg Publishers), Behind the Zines (Gestalten), In a Lonely Place (Hatje Cantz) and Places, Strange and Quiet (Hatje Cantz) 86 The book Heritage Photography Nostalgia

If only the walls could talk…

You want to get to know someone, get underneath their skin. Similarly, the best way to get to know a house, apartment or room you’ve just moved into is by taking a closer look at its walls – the wallpaper, the family portraits, the tapestry. And that there is when you start thinking to yourself : if only these walls could talk…

Photographer Siska Vandecasteele

Igor’s house in Antwerp Culture 87

Mr Decuypere’s house 88 The book

An old house in Brugge

Sarah Eechaut’s house on the outskirts of Ghent Culture 89

Boarding school Leiekant in Kortrijk

Visit thewordmagazine.be/wonders/talkingwalls for our full feature on wallpapers. 90 The portfolio Arts Graphic design Talent Rise and shine Play

Emil Kozak’s shades of blue

Graphic designers, if you ask us, don’t get half as ended-up shaping the rest of his career. “I guess photography to surfing and pop culture giving much of love as they deserve. Part of that can be what really hooked me on skateboarding was him enough material for reflection and crea- down to the fact that they operate on the fringes, the creativity,” he says from Barcelona, where tion. And, with a visual style that tilts towards preferring the familiarity of the backstage to the he moved to from his native Denmark for, as the playful and good-humoured, it is no wonder shine of the spotlight. Part of that is also down he puts it, his ‘love of skateboard (and his girl- he has taken his art to, well, the canvas. Here, we to the fact that they’re the last great technicians friend).” After an initial phase of lots of “staring take a sneak peak inside Emil’s studio to survey of the creative communities, geeks with one foot at the ceiling because of the language barrier,” some of his blue-tilted work… firmly in a bucket of cool. They take inspiration Emil managed to set up a design practice in from their everyday, sucking up their surround- the city that focuses on art direction, graphic emilkozak.com ings whilst delving deep into their subconscious design, illustration and communication for well- to shape a visual narrative imbued with a stead- known, influential culture and fashion imprints fast vision and a very personal aesthetic. Most such as Eastpak, Burton or Nike. ‘Danish design often than not, the designer’s personality seeps made in Barcelona’ became his tag line. Think through his work. And so it is for Danish design- Northern pragmatism with Southern warmth. er Emil Kozak, one of the chosen endorsers for Today, Emil’s inspiration net is cast slightly Braun’s new cruZer, whose early days as a skater wider, with everything from mother nature and Culture 91 92 The portfolio Culture 93

Artwork created exclusively for The Word by Emil Kozak 94 The advertisers

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The Word & Levis presents WELCOME TO OUR WORLD PARIS - NEW YORK 2011 The blue album’s colour chart WORKS BY — THE DEFINITIVE REFERENCE FOR FASHION, PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAGE MAKING, ADVERTISING, PRODUCTION AND EVENTS A collaborative study in different shades of blue WWW.LEBOOK.COM All Basquiat Works Basquiat. Used by permission. L © Estate of Jean-Michel T0.10.80 S6.09.77 S0.15.80 S6.14.75 icensed by Artestar, New York T0.20.70 S4.26.64 S0.40.60 S0.40.50 S0.50.50 S0.50.40 S5.48.41 T0.40.30

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The fuTure is free BuT free don’T come cheap support The Word magazine and suBscriBe to receive your five yearly issues at home

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The art of simple luxury /min., incl. VAT)

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Why did we choose to end the year on a white note? It’s simple really.

We figured it’d be the perfect way for us to atone of all the sins we’d fallen victim to during the year. Call it our very own whitewash, our last chance to redeem ourselves with one, magical stroke delivered by the tip of a worn-out Tipp-ex eraser. Our last shot at letting it all out, indulging in our every fix, follies and fantasies, before setting the dirt aside for the pure. A transitional phase if you will. Not so much of a clean album, more of a ‘in the process of getting clean’ album. Raw and uncut, yes. 100% pure product, certainly. But with nothing but good intentions, we promise.

A virgin suicides fashion feature

The word on white socks (preferably with flip flops)

Corner shop cocaine kaids

Undercover with transparency advocates

White street thugs

Money laundering conspiracy theories

White-collar crime, private investigators, corporate espionage

Recovering drug addicts and alcoholics

Hotel Amigo offers you a special package : the “Art Amigo”

The Word’s WHITE album Illustrated catalogues of the pick of current Brussels exhibitions ( + the food special ) await you in your room, together with an entry ticket. For more information please contact +32 2 547 47 07

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Hotel Amigo Brussels

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A4 Def.indd 1 2/23/11 2:19:39 PM Hotel Amigo offers you a special package : the “Art Amigo”

Illustrated catalogues of the pick of current Brussels exhibitions await you in your room, together with an entry ticket.

For more information please contact +32 2 547 47 07

The art of simple luxury

Hotel Amigo Brussels

Rocco Forte & Family Brussels S.A. • Member of the Leading Hotels of the World Rue de l’Amigo 1-3 • B-1000 Brussels Tel. : +32 2 547 47 47 • Fax : +32 2 513 52 77 [email protected] www.roccofortecollection.com

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