What's the Word?
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VIEW STYLE WHAT’S THE WORD? Autumn/winter runway trends sent many folks diving for their dictionary. Vogue defi nes 12 of the buzziest words you’ll keep hearing (and should be using!) this season. By SARAH KHAN Cuissard Fifty shades of thigh-high Plissé boots stomped the runway Designers have taken to this season, ensuring the folding their fabrics as cuissard is no longer an though they were gossamer accessory associated sheaths of paper, resulting primarily with S&M. in a distinctive pleating Versace pro ered lace-up e ect that can be both boots in turquoise; Chanel hard and soft—take, for softened theirs up with example, Blumarine’s sti knee pads; and Donna folds on a frothy metallic Karan opted for frock, compared with tight versions the gauzy fall of VOGUE that seemed PICK Donna Karan, Alexander Wang’s to meld VOGUE Fendi and black-and-brown seamlessly PICK Alice + Olivia’s Ferragamo’s equestrian-inspired boot is onto the sleek enough to spice up exquisite cobalt blue fl owing any outfi t but comfortable skin. It’s a evening dress with a sheer skirts. enough to wear versatile shimmering plissé skirt is perfect for a “I think out all day. look, one pre-wedding the plissé that can cocktail party. technique o er some can express coverage to a contemporary balance out an impossibly vision of femininity, an short skirt or add some idea that I love very much,” ALEXANDER WANG edge to an otherwise ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY BENDET STACEY ALICE + OLIVIA BY says Blumarine designer simple ensemble. Anna Molinari. Cagoule “Fall is all about the stylish contradic- It’s all about being cosy come autumn or tion of balancing the opposites,” says winter, and this year designers brought out designer Monique Lhuillier. This sea- cagoules—knee-length hooded son that rang true more than ever: weatherproof coats—to sleek 1960s silhouettes met sumptu- fend o the chill. A VOGUE ous furs; edgy Constructivist angles seemingly simple PICK and utilitarian anorak We’re suckers for were followed by whimsical trompe colour. Miu Miu’s l’oeil effects; a wave toward avant has been punched neon yellow cagoule up and fi nessed into was a clear winner bland was skillfully countered by fl ow- sophisticated fare: Miu in our books. er power. Having a hard time keeping Miu went with vivid hues track of all the new lingo on everyone’s to brighten up gloomy days, lips these days? Read on for a helpful while Christopher Kane lined MIU Fglossary of the highlights. > SHUTTERSTOCK.COM INDIGITAL; his with fur for added warmth. 188 VOGUE INDIA SEPTEMBER www.vogue.in VIEW Constructivism Astrakhan This early-20th-century Fur is always a go-to abstract arts movement from on autumn/winter Russia has seeped into fashion runways, but this season consciousness in a big way. the lavish texture “Constructivism to us is the of astrakhan was projection of our vision and particularly in vogue. ideologies, balanced with a This fur is perhaps wearability and practicality,” the rarest and VOGUE say Peter Pilotto and most luxurious PICK of them all, Céline’s textured Christopher De Vos coat dress exudes of UK label Peter VOGUE sourced opulence with its PICK from the tones of gold. Pilotto. “Our goal is Peter Pilotto’s always to fl atter the pixellated knit skirts Karkul sheep body with drapery are the must-haves in Central Asia. and the considered to keep you cosy The plush pelt placement of prints this winter. dyed in vibrant colours and embroidery, o set has lately been a fi xture with our signature colourful, on runways at Miu Miu, geometric aesthetic.” The e ect Céline and Dior. CÉLINE is a bit trippy, a mind-bending collision of colours and shapes. Other designers dabbling in bold technicolour patchwork patterns this season: Proenza Schouler, Thomas PETER PILOTTO Warholian Tait and Roland Mouret. The ’60s have swung their way right back into style. Case in point: the Warhol-inspired modern-day pop art that Jeremy Scott unveiled for Moschino, with Hershey’s chocolate wrappers instead of Campbell’s soup tins. From Versace’s VOGUE patterned minidresses PICK LOUIS VUITTON LOUIS If you get just one and Miu Miu’s piece this winter, make textured tunics to it this sleek Louis Vuitton Nicolas Ghesquière’s coat—it’ll pair well with any look, and the orange lapels A-line coats and VOGUE pinafores for his PICK add just the right kick of It’s tough to single colour to the classic debut collection for out just one, but Rosie silhouette. Louis Vuitton, the Assoulin might just be our streamlined silhouettes, favourite—this one-shoulder gown is pure drama and barely-there hemlines, and would garner all the kicky colours jauntily prancing down oohs and aahs at a the autumn/winter catwalks evoked black-tie gala. ASSOULIN ROSIE Mad Men period panache—but with an unmistakably modern feel. Youthquakers Slate Simone Rocha, Rosie Assoulin, Delpozo. Practise saying these Ask anyone: grey is the new black. “I love grey names now, because soon enough they’ll be on everyone’s lips. because it is the most versatile of colours,” says Irish designer Simone Rocha continues to wow audiences at UK designer Ashish Gupta, whose show was London Fashion Week (Rihanna and Katy Perry are fans of her awash in silvery hues. “It says serious without feminine frocks, this season rife with Elizabethan silhouettes); being severe, and is mysterious without breakthrough debutante Rosie Assoulin set the NYFW being deliberately so. It calms rather runway alight with her voluminous yet very wearable cuts; and VOGUE PICK than excites and it says everything the Wall Street Journal style columnist Christina Binkley was We love almost without giving anything away.” impressed by Spanish label Delpozo’s foray onto the global all of Ashish’s grey Other labels that have embraced pieces, especially stage, writing “the label’s extravagant style and couture-level this translucent tones of sombre slate: Balenciaga, detail stands out boldly at New York fashion week, where sequinned The Row, and Viktor & Rolf. > INDIGITAL; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM INDIGITAL; many brands try to reach as broad an audience as possible.” ASHISH sweatsuit. 190 VOGUE INDIA SEPTEMBER www.vogue.in VIEW Trompe l’oeil A French word meaning “deceive the eye,” trompe l’oeil has long been used by artists and architects, so why not fashion designers? This season, this Surrealist approach goes far beyond faux buttons and VOGUE ties. Viktor & Rolf layered their designs PICK with llusions in the form of pseudo The sexy bustier printed over a prim and bustiers, sweaters and wrap dresses, proper collared shirt at adding a whimsical touch to autumn/ Viktor & Rolf merits a winter. It’s a trend that’s witty and doubletake—we love irreverent when applied well. Other fashion with a sense practitioners of this sort of sartorial of humour. trickery: Moschino and Olympia Le-Tan. Ajrakh Everything old is new again—that’s certainly the case when it comes to this age-old technique, a form of intricate block-printing using VIKTOR & ROLF VIKTOR natural dyes like indigo that once fl ourished in Gujarat’s Kutch region. Designers like Paromita Banerjee are committed to seeing the 4,000-year-old process thrive again. “The forms and shapes of the designs follow the Islamic JIL SANDER JIL SANDER grid structure, with VOGUE geometric motifs PICK VOGUE forming the base of This gauzy, demure PICK each design,” she ajrakh-printed wrap Jil Sander nails the dress with shades of aesthetic with this explains. “Though it navy and violet seemingly simple white- looks simple, ajrakh is sure to wow on Avant on-white sweater-and- is a very labour- a date. bland trousers ensemble. intensive technique that requires many The ranks of stages of printing and dyeing style-conscious in order to get the fi nal e ect.” BANERJEE PAROMITA mavens roaming the roads dressed à la Lady Gaga are decidedly small. Haven’t you noticed that the most fashionable, put-together women out and about tend to keep it simple, chic Florcore and relaxed? That’s the look that “Florals continue to fl ourish on clothing, the avant bland wave is taking to but take a darker side for fall,” says designer the next level, heralding the allure Monique Lhuillier. When the term ‘normcore’ of monotony—just look at the went fashion-viral earlier this year, vanilla aesthetic mastered for years no one could quite agree on by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, VOGUE whether it was a long-overdue PICK who parlayed their preferences We love Monique movement celebrating toward the mundane into the Lhuillier’s interpretation: inconspicuousness or if it was consider donning this wildly successful line, The Row. stunning black gown with just some sort of fashion- Haters might deem them dull a bold fl oral motif for a world joke. Well, joke or not, or even insipid, but brands wedding, or even your the punchline is here: ‘fl orcore’ like Jil Sander, Céline and own bridal shower. aims to be the new normcore, JW Anderson are on the a response to the fetishisation avant bland bandwagon, of average. Bold, dramatic fl orals professing that banal are bigger than ever, on runways from can be elevated to Carven to Blumarine to Thakoon. “In my beautiful with the collection I take petals and interpret them in a ■ right eye. MONIQUE LHUILLIER graphic yet modern way,” says Lhuillier. MEDIA: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM INDIGITAL 192 VOGUE INDIA SEPTEMBER www.vogue.in.