188 F VOGUE INDIASEPTEMBER  glossary ofthehighlights. lips thesedays?Readonfora helpful track ofallthenewlingooneveryone’s er power.Havingahardtime keeping flby countered skillfully was bland ow- l’oeil were followedbywhimsicaltrompe ous furs;edgyConstructivistangles sleek 1960ssilhouettesmetsumptu- son thatrangtruemorethanever: designer Monique Lhuillier. This sea- tion ofbalancingtheopposites,”says “Fall isallaboutthestylishcontradic-

effects; a wave toward avant effects; awavetowardavant ALEXANDER WANG VIEW

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any outfi t but comfortable outficomfortable any but t

equestrian-inspired boot is is boot equestrian-inspired

sleek enough to spice up up spice to enough sleek

Alexander Wang’s Wang’s Alexander

black-and-brown black-and-brown

enough to wear wear to enough

out all day. all out

VOGUE VOGUE PICK Cuissard

knee pads; andDonna softened theirsupwith boots inturquoise; Chanel Versace pro ered lace-up primarily withS&M. associated accessory cuissard isnolongeran this season,ensuringthe boots stompedtherunway shadesofthigh-high Fifty simple ensemble. edge toanotherwise short skirtoraddsome balance outanimpossibly

Karan optedfor coverage to tight versions tight versions o er some WHAT’S THE winter, andthisyear designersbrought out to brightenupgloomydays, (and shouldbeusing!)thisseason. that seemed that seemed that can that can Miu went with vivid hues Miu wentwithvividhues cagoules—knee-length hooded cagoules—knee-length hooded sophisticated fare: Miu to meld to meld look, one look, one It’s allaboutbeingcosycome autumnor seamlessly seamlessly versatile versatile and utilitarian anorak and utilitariananorak skin. It’s a onto the up andfi nessed into Autumn/winter runway trends sent many folks runwayAutumn/winter trends sentmanyfolks weatherproof coats—to has been punched has beenpunched while Christopher Kane lined while ChristopherKane lined fend o thechill.A diving fortheirdictionary. Vogue defi nes 12 seemingly simple seemingly simple of the buzziest words you’ll keep hearing of thebuzziestwords you’ll keep hearing his withfurforaddedwarmth. WORD?

ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY BENDET

Cagoule

neon yellow cagoule cagoule yellow neon

was a clear winner winner clear a was

colour. Miu Miu’s Miu’s Miu colour.

We’re suckers for for suckers We’re

in our books. our in VOGUE

STYLE

PICK

>

By

evening dress with a a with dress evening

exquisite cobalt blue blue cobalt exquisite

skirt is perfect for a a for perfect is skirt shimmering plissé plissé shimmering

SARAH KHAN

cocktail party. cocktail

Alice + Olivia’s Olivia’s + Alice

pre-wedding pre-wedding

VOGUE VOGUE PICK

Plissé frock, compared with folds onafrothy metallic example, Blumarine’s sti hard andsoft—take, for e ect thatcanbeboth in adistinctive pleating sheaths ofpaper, resulting though they were gossamer folding theirfabrics as Designers have taken to Anna Molinari. says Blumarinedesigner idea thatIlove much,” very

vision offemininity, an the gauzy fall of the gauzyfall of a contemporary a contemporary Donna Karan, can express can express

MIU MIU Fendi and technique technique Ferragamo’s the plissé the plissé “I think “I think sheer skirts. fl owing

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190

favourite—this one-shoulder one-shoulder favourite—this

Assoulin might just be our our be just might Assoulin

gown is pure drama and and drama pure is gown

out just one, but Rosie Rosie but one, just out

would garner all the the all garner would

oohs and aahs at a a at aahs and oohs It’s tough to single single to It’stough

VOGUE INDIASEPTEMBER 

black-tie gala. black-tie VOGUE Youthquakers many brandstoreach try asbroad anaudienceaspossible.” detail standsoutboldlyatNew York fashion week,where stage, writing“thelabel’s extravagant andcouture-level style impressed bySpanish label Delpozo’s foray ontotheglobal the runway alightwithhervoluminous yetwearable very cuts;and breakthrough debutanteRosie AssoulinsettheNYFW feminine frocks, thisseasonrifewithElizabethan silhouettes); London Fashion Week (RihannaandKatyPerry are fans ofher Irish designerSimoneRocha continuestowowaudiencesat names now, becausesoonenoughthey’llbeoneveryone’s lips. Simone Rocha, Rosie Assoulin,Delpozo. Practise sayingthese

Constructivism PICK geometric aesthetic.” Thee ect with our signature colourful, with oursignature colourful, patchwork patterns this season: patchwork patterns thisseason: collision ofcoloursandshapes. Russia hasseepedintofashion and embroidery, o set always tofl atter the is abittrippy, amind-bending Pilotto. “OurPilotto. goal is Wall Street JournalcolumnistChristinaBinkleywas style and the considered and theconsidered abstract artsmovement from body with drapery body withdrapery placement of prints placement ofprints wearability andpracticality,” projection of our vision and projection ofourvisionand “Constructivism tousisthe Christopher De Vos Proenza Schouler, Thomas ideologies, balanced witha consciousness inabigway. of UKlabelPeter

Other designers dabbling Other designersdabbling

Tait andRoland Mouret. say Peter Pilotto and and say Peter Pilotto This early-20th-century in bold technicolour in boldtechnicolour VIEW

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pixellated knit skirts skirts knit pixellated

are the must-haves must-haves the are

to keep you cosy cosy you keep to

Peter Pilotto’s Pilotto’s Peter

this winter. this

VOGUE

PICK PETER PILOTTO

ROSIE ASSOULIN

LOUIS VUITTON This fur is perhaps This furisperhaps most luxurious most luxurious

ASHISH runways, butthisseason on runways atMiuMiu, has latelybeenafi xture in Central Asia. Astrakhan dyed invibrant colours Karkul sheep Karkul sheep the rarest and of them all, of themall, particularly invogue. Fur isalways ago-to The plush pelt The plushpelt from the from the sourced sourced on autumn/winter on autumn/winter the lavish the lavishtexture

Céline andDior.

of astrakhan was

all of Ashish’s grey grey Ashish’s of all

pieces, especially especially pieces,

this translucent translucent this

We love almost almost love We

sequinned sequinned

sweatsuit.

VOGUE VOGUE

PICK

look, and the orange lapels lapels orange the and look,

coat—it’ll pair well with any any with well pair coat—it’ll

add just the right kick of of kick right the just add it this sleek Louis Vuitton Vuitton Louis sleek this it piece this winter, make make winter, this piece

awash hues. insilvery “It says seriouswithout UK designerAshishGupta,whoseshowwas because itisthemostversatile ofcolours,” says Ask anyone: grey isthenewblack.“Ilove grey Slate

colour to the classic classic the to colour

coat dress exudes exudes dress coat

If you get just one one just get you If

opulence with its its with opulence

Céline’s textured textured Céline’s

tones of gold. of tones

silhouette.

VOGUE

VOGUE VOGUE PICK

being severe, andismysterious without PICK being deliberately so. It calmsrather an unmistakablymodernfeel. Mad Men periodpanache—but with catwalksevoked the autumn/winter kicky coloursjauntilyprancing down Moschino, withHershey’s chocolate art thatJeremy Scottunveiled for Warhol-inspired modern-day pop back intostyle. Caseinpoint:the The ’60shave swungtheirway right Warholian than excites and it says everything than excites anditsays everything

The Row, andViktor &Rolf. without givinganythingaway.”

tones of sombre slate: Balenciaga, tones ofsombre slate:Balenciaga, Other labelsthathave embraced

wrappers insteadofCampbell’s barely-there hemlines, and soup tins. From Versace’s streamlined silhouettes, patterned minidresses Louis Vuitton, the and MiuMiu’s debut collection for debut collectionfor pinafores for his pinafores forhis textured tunicsto A-line coats and Nicolas Ghesquière’s >

CÉLINE

INDIGITAL; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VIEW Trompe l’oeil A French word meaning “deceive the eye,” trompe l’oeil has long been used by artists and architects, so why not fashion designers? This season, this Surrealist approach goes far beyond faux buttons and VOGUE ties. Viktor & Rolf layered their designs PICK with llusions in the form of pseudo The sexy bustier printed over a prim and bustiers, sweaters and wrap dresses, proper collared shirt at adding a whimsical touch to autumn/ Viktor & Rolf merits a winter. It’s a trend that’s witty and doubletake—we love irreverent when applied well. Other fashion with a sense practitioners of this sort of sartorial of humour. trickery: Moschino and Olympia Le-Tan.

Ajrakh Everything old is new again—that’s certainly the case when it comes to this age-old technique, a form of intricate block-printing using VIKTOR & ROLF VIKTOR natural dyes like indigo that once fl ourished in Gujarat’s Kutch region. Designers like Paromita Banerjee are committed to seeing the 4,000-year-old process thrive again. “The forms and shapes of the designs follow the Islamic JIL SANDER JIL SANDER grid structure, with VOGUE geometric motifs PICK VOGUE forming the base of This gauzy, demure PICK each design,” she ajrakh-printed wrap Jil Sander nails the dress with shades of aesthetic with this explains. “Though it navy and violet seemingly simple white- looks simple, ajrakh is sure to wow on Avant on-white sweater-and- is a very labour- a date. bland trousers ensemble. intensive technique that requires many The ranks of stages of printing and dyeing style-conscious in order to get the fi nal e ect.” BANERJEE PAROMITA mavens roaming the roads dressed à la Lady Gaga are decidedly small. Haven’t you noticed that the most fashionable, put-together women out and about tend to keep it simple, chic Florcore and relaxed? That’s the look that “Florals continue to fl ourish on clothing, the avant bland wave is taking to but take a darker side for fall,” says designer the next level, heralding the allure Monique Lhuillier. When the term ‘normcore’ of monotony—just look at the went fashion-viral earlier this year, vanilla aesthetic mastered for years no one could quite agree on by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, VOGUE whether it was a long-overdue PICK who parlayed their preferences We love Monique movement celebrating toward the mundane into the Lhuillier’s interpretation: inconspicuousness or if it was consider donning this wildly successful line, The Row. stunning black gown with just some sort of fashion- Haters might deem them dull a bold fl oral motif for a world joke. Well, joke or not, or even insipid, but brands wedding, or even your the punchline is here: ‘fl orcore’ like Jil Sander, Céline and own bridal shower. aims to be the new normcore, JW Anderson are on the a response to the fetishisation avant bland bandwagon, of average. Bold, dramatic fl orals professing that banal are bigger than ever, on runways from can be elevated to Carven to Blumarine to Thakoon. “In my beautiful with the collection I take petals and interpret them in a ■ right eye. MONIQUE LHUILLIER graphic yet modern way,” says Lhuillier. MEDIA: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM INDIGITAL

192 VOGUE SEPTEMBER  www.vogue.in