Foreword by the President

This, the third issue of The Yorkshire Rambler will I hope be the best to date. The articles range from a 1937 fist ascent, via the reopening of Grey Wife Hole, to Nepal, plus some poetry and both sides of the .'should we have women in the Club' controversy. I can't wait to read that one. Also included are the meet reports, hopefully as up to date as printing deadlines will allow. There have been comments made that the advent of the Bulletin has meant that meet reports are not received by members as regularly as previously. This may be so but the other side of the coin is that we are getting a publication which is acting as a catalyst for members to record their own and the Club's activities on a regular basis. This is certainly preferable to receiving a journal every five to six years. Even the obituaries are being produced more or less to time. Finally, no foreword would be complete without our sincere thanks to the Editor for putting all of it together. Only previous Editors can appreciate how time consuming and demanding his job is. Have a good read!

©1995 Yorkshire Ramblers' Club

Secretary - John Schofield, 40 Newall Hall Park, Otley, West Yorkshire LS21 2RD Editor - Michael Smith, 80 Towngate Road, Worrall, Sheffield, South Yorks. S30 3AR The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the Y.R.C, its Officers or those of the Editor. An information sheet entitled 'Notes for Contributors' is available to anyone considering submitting material for inclusion in subsequent editions. Contents

.President's Report 1994 Arthur Salmon 3 Annapuma and the Langtang, Nepal 1990 Paul Glendenning 4 Reflections on the Munros Darrell Farrant 8 The Rediscovery of Grey Wife Hole Ged Campion 10 On the North Yorkshire Moors Derek A Smithson 14 Kamchatka, Russia David Laughton 15 Expedition Diary: 1957 - Nepal Maurice Wilson 18 Crampons and Conservation Bill Todd 20 Elidir Fawr - 1937 Arthur Evans 22 Hands of a Climber by Steve Dean Book Review 23 The Song from the 1994 Annual Dinner J. Dennis Armstrong 24 The Moon - Gogarth climbing John Middleton 25 A case against mixed membership lan Crowther 26 S GM Blues Alan Linford 28 Newfoundland Notes Peter Lockwood 29 The Character of our Alpine Meets Dennis Armstrong 30

Obituaries: Jack Ratcliffe 32 A. David M. Cox 33

Chippings 36

Meet Reports: See you at the meet? lain Gilmour 42 Alpine Meet 1994 July/August 43 Lowstem August 58 Hubberholme October 59 Annual Dinner 1994 November 60 Christmas Meet - Ribblehead December 62 North Wales - Plas y Celyn January 64 Kinlochleven February 65 bulletin will depend on members continuing President's Report 1994 to make the effort to write about their excursions. Please keep up the good work. Last year's Committee report suggested that 1993 was a period of consolidation, Planning for the expedition, which however, as I look back on 1994 I see that commenced in 1993, is now well advanced. in many ways the Club is changing and The Committee took the decision that the reacting in a healthy manner to the expedition should take place in circumstances of the mid-nineteen nineties October/November of 1995 and should while still remaining true to our past. follow in the footsteps of the 1957 expedition and visit the Jugal Himal in Central to the Club's activities is our Nepal, with the main objective of climbing programme of meets. Excluding the Dorje Lhakpa. Alan Kaye has been Dinner and After-dinner Meet, your appointed planning co-ordinator and Ged Committee organised 16 meets, five of Campion the leader ofthe climbing party. which were open meets. All the major activities of the club were catered for The Club Huts are both in excellent within the programme including rock condition and are continuing to be well climbing, potholing, fell-walking, Nordic used and also fmancially profitable. skiing and the opportunity to tackle major alpine routes. Average attendance at meets During the year, the Committee has given was 22, marginally up on last year's 21. much thought to the future ofthe Club and, The Ladies' Weekend was the best attended as a result, established a sub-committee to with 43 members and their ladies present. look at the current state of the Club and to This was followed closely by the December prepare a plan for the next 25 years. One Meet at Blencathra House with 42. In statistic of interest to emerge was that the spite of the 900 mile round trip, 10 average age of the membership is 56.6. members and a guest attended the sea cliff The sub-committee's deliberations have climbing meet at Bosigran near Land's been circulated to members and will be End. I can only regret that, due to my considered at the Special General Meeting domestic circumstances, I have been able following this AGM. to attend only half the meets on the calendar. All the meets have been an Regretfully, I have to announce that our undoubted success and this is due in no Honorary Member David Cox, a one-time small part to the efforts of the meet President of the Alpine Club and Editor of organisers and I should like to take this the Alpine Club Journal, died in October opportunity of thanking all of them for the while in Cyprus. Two new members were work they have done. I should also like to admitted to the Club, Ian Potter resigned remind members that the committee very and a member resigned by non-payment of much welcomes receiving suggestions for subscriptions. Total membership, new meet venues. including our honorary members, which had remained constant for the previous two Thanks to our Editor, Michael Smith, the years, thus declined by one to 188. This is discussions of last year on the introduction broken down as follows: of a bulletin produced by desk-top publishing methods came to fruition with 1994 1993 the first issue of The Yorkshire Rambler. Honorary Members 6 7 This has been well received by the Club Life Members 65 59 and seems to have stimulated a previously Ordinary Members 116 122 hidden desire by some members to write Junior Members _1 _1 about their mountaineering and potholing 188 189 activities. I'm sure the health of the

The YRC Bulletin 3 Sununer 1995 ANNAPURNA and the LANGTANG NEPAL 1990 (

Paul Glendenning

I went to Nepal with a mend from the beautiful green valleys with spectacular mountaineering club at university. We rivers and the occasional glimpse of the had no clear objectives and hoped to high mountains. It was warm and at team up with some people to climb a least for the first 2 or 3 days we were trekking peak when we got to walking in shorts and T-shirts. We Kathmandu. Apart from an obscure carried all our own gear and stayed at Irishman who ducked out at the last Nepali lodges or "tea houses" along the minute we didn't find anyone willing to way. On 21st October we reached accompany us with similar ambitions. Pisang (3000m). However, we had a great two months trekking and climbing, including Yala Our stay at Pisang was one of the more Peak (5500m) in the Langtang valley. memorable nights of accommodation. Our room had a hole in the floor 15th Oct - 6th Nov: The Annapurna dropping into a cattle shed and the Circuit & Annapurna Sanctuary window (very small) had no glass in it. A truck took us from Dumre on the However, the view out of the window Kathmandu-Pokhara road up to a of Annapuma n was superb. We ate village calledBhote Odar. The mud was our evening meal of dhaal bhaat (rice & in some places about 3 feet deep, lentils) by the light of a small wood­ the truck was overflowing with bodies burning stove whilst we sat cross­ (mostly alive I think) and it kept legged on stools about 6" high. The breaking down. Five hours after setting smoke from the stove went out through off we reached the villagein the dark. a hole in the roof and the meal was The first five days walking are along cooked by an old Nepali woman while her husband listened to a battered- looking transistor radio and tried to sell us some "lucky buddhas" which he said were carved out ofYak bone.

The following day we took the high route along the side of the valley to Manang (3500m).

The YRC Bulletin Summer 1995 Machhapuchhre from Annapurna basecamp

humping your snow & ice gear up there. At Muktinath a day was wasted while I was violently ill with Giardia but the next day we made it to Jomsom where I could see an Indian doctor.

On November 2nd we bivouacked on top of Poon Hill (about 3000 m) from where we watched sunset and sunrise on the Annapurnas. By now it was quite cold at night and I had to shake the ice out of my bivouack bag in the mornmg. After a day acclimatising at Manang (during which we went for a walk up a From Gorepani (near Poon Hill) we cut ridge above a nearby small lake to gain across to Chomrong on the Annapurna some altitude) we headed on up the Sanctuary trail. After about 18 days valley to Phedi (about 4000m). The trekking we were now feeling very fit lodge at Phedi was chaos, overcrowded and we made it to the Sanctuary in with trekkers and porters, and a place three days. This is a slightly steeper and we were pleased to leave early next narrower trail than the walk round the morning to climb up to the Thorung La Circuit and cuts through a green valley pass. The porters all wanted to leave at with bamboo forest to come out at 3am to reach the pass before it got Machhapuchhre base camp and windy. This didn't go down well with Annapurna base camp a couple of hours the rest of us and in the end the two of beyond. We didn't stay in the Sanctuary us set ofwalking at about 5 o'clock. but in a lodge at Machhapuchhre base camp. Although you can now buy We reached the top ofthe pass (5400m) chocolate cake at a lodge in the at 10.30am and descended to Muktinath Annapurna Sanctuary (sad but true) in on the other side. There are a couple of early November the sun goes down at peaks you can climb from the top of 3pm and the temperature plummets. the pass if you feel like

TIle YRC Bulletin 5 Summer 1995 " ..) I

16th Nov - 6th Dee : The Langtang On the 23rd November we camped at valley and Yala Peak Yala (about 4600m) intending to climb Yala Peak in the morning. Yala is a The Langtang is different in character to small group of empty Yak huts. The the Annapuma area; less green and view' of the fluted snow face of more rocky. We hired a porter for this Ganchempo from the tent was beautiful. trip as we had a tent, rope, ice axes, By now it was very cold - the best way plastic boots and crampons to carry. He to secure tent pegs in the loose earth carried allthis and wanted more. there was to pour water over them so that they froze in place.

Three or four days took us to Kyangjin The next day we were both suffering Gompa (3800m), the end ofthe trail for from altitude symptoms and spent the most trekkers, where we stayed in a day exploring the area above the camp. lodge called "Hotel Yala Peak". The On the following morning it was all we plan was to base ourselves there for ten could do to carry our gear back down days or so and to explore up the valley to the lodge. (Our porter, Ram, had possibly climbing something in the helped us carry our equipment to the process. camp site and then returned to the lodge

YRC Bulletin 6 Summer 1995 where he was helping with the cooking.)

Back at the lodge, the news that Margaret Thatcher had resigned finally filtered through to the top of the Langtang valley and we ordered some beer to celebrate along with another English bloke.

Two hills near to KyangjinGompa were useful for acclimatising. One is near the airstrip and the other is nearer to the lodges. Both are around 4500-5000m.

A day or two later we made another trip up the valley and camped near the head of the valley at Pagan Goldum and lower down at Langshisa. From Pagari Goldum we went for walks further up towards the Tibetan border alongside the Langtang glacier and up the moraines above. The area is very spectacular with several peaks in the 7000m range and a number of steep­ looking glaciers. There was no habitation, just the occasional empty or ruined Yak hut. The only other living creatures that we saw were some small furry rodents.

On 1st December we returned to Yala On Yalalooking downintothe Langtang Valley and camped higher up on a flat grassy area next to a frozen pond just below the moraines. We climbed Yala Peak (5500m) on 2nd December setting off at 7am. After some boulder scrambling up moraine it is a walk up a glacier followed by a 40° snow slope to the summit ridge. We were on the top at 11.15 and back down by 2 o'clock, greeted by Ram who had come to meet us with a chocolate cake in a carrier bag. We'd asked him to order one for us at the lodge as a celebration but hadn't intended him to carry it up there!

TheYRCBulletin 7 Summer 1995 Reflections on the Munros What memories still stand out even at Darrell Farrant this gap of time? Certainly a long and bitterly cold Easter Day along the Cam Mor Dearg Arete and Ben It was with the greatest pleasure that Nevis, followed by a sudden fall on I read in the second issue of the the snow slope whilst abseiling into excellent new Club Bulletin that two Coire Leis; only a brilliant piece of of my oldest friends in the YRC, Peter ice-axe braking by my companion Swindells and David Smith, had saving us from a possibly fatal plunge recently completed the Munros. In to the floor of the corrie. Then, only his article Peter kindly referred to my a couple of days later, there was a own ascents which were completed in superb winter traverse on An Teallach 1974, and about which I wrote in the in breathtakingly beautiful conditions 1976 edition of the Club Journal. of warm sun, firm, crisp snow and endless visibility.

The Editor suggested that I might write some reflections at a distance of I remember my fifth visit to Skye - on twenty years, and I am happy to do the previous four it had rained most so. On rereading my earlier article of the time - when we climbed all the and comparing it with Peter's, I was exciting things on the warm, abrasive struck by their similarity. We both Gabbro: the Cioch, the Round of looked for some explanation for our Coire Lagan, the Inaccessible quest - as if to brush aside possible Pinnacle, the Clach Glas-Blaven criticisms of mere Munro-bagging ­ Traverse and the Pinnacle Ridge of we both explained how an undeniable Sgurr Nan Gillean. There can be no determination had got into the blood, better climbing in Britain than we dwelt upon our favourite conditions like these. memories of the best days and paid tribute to some of the very special friends who had enabled us to There were three consecutive Easters accomplish our goal. in an idyllic cottage in Glen Affric which enabled me to climb all the peaks in the area, again in the most I recogruse now that with the superb winter conditions. One Easter commitments of my present job I Monday was spent on Sgurr Na would never be able to achieve the Lapaich and we sat on the summit in Munros these days. Living in shirtsleeves for over half an hour in Edinburgh was a huge advantage for glorious sunshine with views of the nine years that I took, and it is diamond clarity all around us. perhaps worth recording that then petrol was 30 pence per gallon! Nevertheless the memories remain It was a pity, for my final ascents, that surprisingly fresh, and I still regularly I chose a rather poor weekend go out on the hills with the same towards the end of May. We walked mountaineering companions. I also into Shenaval on a glorious evening, quite unashamedly regard the Munros and whilst we had good weather part as a very special achievement. of the next day, the rain and mist

The YRC Bulletin 8 Summer 1995 Skye, Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Thearlaich viewed from the slopes of Sgurr nan Eag, to the south came flooding in from the west to having a modest celebration with deny us the spectacular views of chocolates, oatcakes and a dram of Strathnasheallag and the Fisherfield whisky, and I treasure the dark Forest. That evening finished with an photograph offour bedraggled figures ascent of A'Mhaighdean, so that on sitting beside the cairn in the pouring the Sunday we had just Ruadh Stac rain with an infectious grin on all their Mhor to complete. It was a long, wet faces. In some respects it was the end trek, but our navigation was good, of the odyssey, but in a wider context and my companions were in fine it was merely part of a longer-lasting spirits. By early afternoon we were love affair with the hills.

The YRC Bulletin 9 Summer 1995 The Rediscovery of Office and the necessary scaffold, tools and general equipment were Grey Wife Hole carried up to the entrance. Locating the exact site of the old entrance dig G. Campion. was difficult at first but artefacts of the late sixties soon gave clues to the The large shake hole of Grey direction of the excavation. After Wife, above the West Branch of Cote only two weekends of hard work a Gill was first excavated by Harry breakthrough was made, the direction Long and friends around 34 years probably slightly different to the KCC ago. Their dig was more or less at route. In less than half an hour, two the point where the stream sank. of us were at the base of the entrance Unfortunately, the excavation became rift confronted by a blockage at the blocked by a large boulder and the bottom of a steeply inclined crawl. project was abandoned. In November Records indicate that it only took the 1968, members of the Kendal Caving original explorers 20 minutes to break Club adopted a more systematic through this section, however, it took approach to the site and chose an us four hours to clear the crawl. opening in the south-east end of the Once through this we were into the shakehole of a couple of metres above stream passage and after decades of and away from the stream sink. Two dormancy, the cave was once again weekends of persistent work revealed wide open. a narrow rift which eventually allowed access to 400 metres of Easy passage leads to a 2 metre passage comprising of two streams, a drop, the way below continuing as a sump of modest proportions and high twisting rift with a few impressiveformations. constrictions. After 60 metres an impressive aven is reached with a 12 This was a both unique and mitre pitch straight into the sump. significant find on Newby Moss, The sump, (paradox pond), appears revealing the highest horizontal to be more like a canal and forms the streamway in the whole of the confluence of two streams. Across Ingleborough drainage. Not long the sump, the upstream section of after the exploration of Grey Wife Grey Wife sports the most interesting was completed the initial narrow rift and well decorated part of the cave. became silted up and the entrance Smallcascades lead along the twisting collapsed making the prospect of re­ streamway through a larger passage opening the hole and keeping it open, ending suddenly in a large chamber. a major project. However, ready for The stream spouts impressively from the major project, the YRC decided a small passage 7 metres above. to re-open the cave. It was felt that Access to this passage can be gained not only would this constitute a via a leftwards tending traverse (Jim's worthwhile rediscovery but further Traverse) but getting to the traverse investigation of its sump and line is quite difficult having to adjoining passage might go some way overcome a overhanging wall with towards solving the mysteries lying little protection at the start. Once up below the slopes of the South the initial crux however, a sling was Ingleborough area. Permission was threaded which protected the more obtained from Ingleborough Estate exposed section of the traverse.

The YRC Bulletin 10 Sununer 1995 Sizeable ledges can be used as hand­ The upstream passage of Grey holds but they need to be treated with Wife trends Northwest and its source care due to their friable nature. On is still a mystery. Looking ·at the the otherside of the traverse, a low topology of the area logically, P2b, 60 wet but decorated crawl leads after metres north-west of Grey Wife 80 metres to a chamber adorned with would seem to be the source. This incredible straws 2 metres long! The sink taking a sizeable stream but no way on is a 3 metre duck and beyond significant cave development, has the passage rises steeply but ends been dye-tested to Moses Well and disappointingly in a mass of large Clapham Beck Head with no proven boulders from where the stream connection with Grey Wife. flows. The sump of Grey Wife, paradox Back in the late 60's a diver from pond, stilllives up to its name, at such the University of Leeds Speleological a high altitude at 387 metres is Association made two attempts at the probably a perched sump. It has been sump in Grey Wife but only got down positively dye-tested to Moses Well 4 metres and penetrated 10 metres and Clapham Beck Head and during horizontally because of the lack of times of excessive flow, Cat Hole. visibility. In 1971 further dives were According to D. Brook, Moses Well made by Geoff Yeadon and Olivia may have a flood relationship with Statham and a low wide bedding was Cat Hole similarto that ofBrants Gill entered and followed for Head to Douk Gill over in Horton-in­ approximately 20 metres until it Ribblesdale. During flood Moses became depressingly low with poor Well increases in flow to about 1m3/s visibility.. In June this year, Joel but continues to run clear, whilst Cat Gorrigan, of Mendip Caving Group, Hole, 300 metres distant and 20 also an active caver with the YRC, metres higher, suddenly discharges a was easily persuaded to enter the torrent of turbid water. It is likely sump after 20 years in inky stillness. that the waters of Grey Wife follow a Everyone including Joel was southerly route towards the Newby optimistic that the technical Moss fault and then take a south­ advancements in cave diving over the easterly direction, possibly using the years might help unlock the secrets fault towards Moses Well. deep in Grey Wife. Unfortunately, the sump proved to be considerably If there is a master cave beneath more full of silt than previous dives Newby Moss then clearly the Grey had recorded. A possible product of Wife sump may hold the key. gripping on the Fells. He estimated Theories expounded in the past only being able to get down for 3 attempting to explain why the area metres with virtually no horizontal has been so reluctant to yield more penetration. In December this year, cave passages have concluded that a Dave Morris of the Craven Pot Hole link between sump and resurgences Club, agreed to give a second may be paraphreatic in nature. opinion. Unfortunately, his dive only Indeed, it has been argued that the confirmed what Joel had already bulk of the Newby Moss drainage reported. may have originally accounted for the advanced nature of the White Scar cave system, now with only a small

The YRC Bulletin 11 Summer 1995 POET'S CORNER CABLE PASSAGE 10'long

r SURVEYOR'S 10' sump SERIES cascades +4' +2' POND I J.

N (mag.) pitch +24'

TRAVERSE GREY WIFE HOLE,Newby Moss N.G.R. SD 741 722 Discovered K.C.C. Dec. 1968 Surveyed K. C.C. choke C.R.G. Grade 5b YRe extension Resurveyed y.R.C. 1994 o 20' 40' Length: 135Oft. , Depth: 130ft. Arti5t:P. M. Smith A BeD E F G H I J K N AIngleborough Hill

Little Ingleborough e v / o Gaping Gill Hole K L M N 0 P Q R S T

Trow

Ingleborough 0 Cave !Clapham o 10' 20' Beck Head T w y u v x z Cross Section

Moses Well a b c cl e stream flowing from the entrance. At On the North a later time the watershed probably shifted to the west and this could Yorkshire Moors partly account for the large flow size emerging from Moses Well. Derek A Smithson However, the generally consensus in the YRC team developing Grey Wife Recently, I went for a walk along the is that a master cave does exist. northern edge of the moor, below the Although this might be inspired skyline and in the woods, out of the romanticism, it hasn't stopped bitter cold wind. I had been here with productive thinking about how the some friends about two months sump may be eventually turned earlier and was delighted to find that sometime next year. grass had grown over the forestry road. Since then we have had rain and A dig site has also been the road was now liquid mud from established upstream of the sump and side to side, marked with hooves, already 30 metres of new passage has bicycle tyres and feet. As I went been found. The aven above the further, I turned off the 'main road' upstream side of the sump has sported onto a path that had been turned into an impressive climb but sadly no a gutter by tyre marks all following horizontal passage was found. the same smoothest route. The Although efforts have been made to pleasant walk in the woods had been climb the aven "this side" of the sump, turned into a 'greasy pole'. the attempt was cut short when the cave suddenly started to flood! This is 'popularity' for you! I left the path and followed a buried pipe line The reopening of Grey Wife which has grassed over, but still Hole has already caused quite a stir in creates a gap through the dense pine caving circles further developments trees. This is not a right of way, there will hopefully take place over the next is no path on the map or .on the few months. ground and there is a gate to climb. A good route, if you don't mind a little YRC members of the team. trespassing. In the North Yorkshire G. Campion Moors, we have forestry roads, we G. Salmon have fire fighting/access roads for the B. Bensley gunmen and we have paths. Among R. Sealey the more interesting of these are the A. Renton remains of the paved ways created by Non club members the monks on their popular routes and S. Walker now, popular paths are being paved E Edkins again. So the human race progresses. H. Green M. Green

Bibliography. The Limestone and Caves ofN.W. England, by Tony Waltham. 1971, Joumal ofKendal Caving Club. TIle Geomorphology of the Carboniferous Limestone of the Ingleborough District, by M. Sweeting.

The YRC Bulletin 14 Summer 1995

Another longish drive, still heading clouds covered the mountain so we North gave us superb views of the high walked elsewhere. peaks we were aiming for crystal clear in the pure air. Our aim was to a camp A different route took us back to high for three nights in an area covered our riverside camp for one night to find by ash from a huge volcanic eruption in the insects worse than ever. Next 1976 and, if possible, to climb up to the morning we were picked up by crater of one of the group of helicopter for a magnificent flight in volcanoes, Tolbachic, at around 10,000 perfect weather over the tundra like ft, The highest nearby peak at 15,800 plateau, then over another group of ft was way beyond the capabilities of volcanoes giving spectacular views our party and would be a major down into the craters. We were put expedition, particularly in view of the down in a beautiful area some 30 miles problems associated with active from P.P. where there are hot springs volcanoes. I have since learned that a and a few cabins catering for people British party reached the summit of who walk or helicopter in - there is no Klivchovskoi a few weeks before our road or track. We camped there visit and that there was a spectacular amongst birch and alder trees for four eruption shortly after we left. nights each day walking through the forests and up to hot springs, mineral Our vehicle soon proved its worth pools or view points all the time under when the rough track we were now the gaze of a couple of magnificent, following ended in a 6 ft drop cut by gleaming, ice encrusted peaks. On the recent floods. We got out, the driver fifth day we were helicoptered out engaged 6 wheel drive and rove down flying between the two teaks, again in it with no problem, crossed the wide, perfect visibility. rock strewn river bed and climbed an equally high and sheer bank on the After a night recuperating in the P.P. other side. Then up over ash, lava and hotel we were reunited with our truck snow fields to our camp site amid a for a long drive S round Avachinska dead forest of large birch trees which Bay and up increasingly bad roads had not been able to survive the few around the boot of yet another volcano feet of ash deposited by the 1976 to a beautiful campsite beside a small eruption. Although the site was bleak, stream with a grove of alder bushes without water and very cold (at some providing shelter and a profusion of 3,000 ft) we could have large wood wild flowers. A walk in late afternoon fires on each of the three nights spent saw us crossing a pass and descending there. Happily there were no mossies, via an impressive waterfall to an old only a small vole to keep us company. gold mining camp, now trying to Whilst up there we explored the area establish itself as a XC ski centre and a on foot, descending through scrub, lava nearby hot pool in which we soaked. and mud to a 259 yard long lava tube Next day was a big one, an attempt on just high enough to crawl through and a volcano (Mutnovsky), quite a climbing a series of high cinder cones distance from camp. We were away by one still warm enough to provide a 7.30 for an extremely rough drive. The cozy lunch spot. Unfortunately on the track had been churned up by day of the planned ascent to the main geologists and surveyors planning the crater it poured with rain and the route of a pipeline from the volcano to

The YRC Bulletin 16 Summer 1995 an occasional track, breached in many Expedition Diary places. After a couple of hours we reached base camp, a collection of some twenty huts in various stages of 1957 Nepal decrepitude with a few resident vulcanologists. 'Fortunately we didn't Maurice Wilson need to pitch tents as we were able to into a couple of the huts, equipped April 22 (Easter Monday) with a sleeping bench. That afternoon We had a fair amount of snow during we climbed a Suilven like peak up the night. It was cold but, eventually, I above camp, en-route descending into a realised that it was striking at my large ice cave at the foot of a buttocks through the Lilo. By simply permanent snowfield. Next day the fit dragging the Duvet suit further beneath ones planned an ascent of the peak now me, the trouble stopped. clearly seen as a huge cinder cone, still Breakfast was served through the tent active. flaps fairly punctually and I quite enjoyed the porridge. I much prefer Although born in slag heap our breakfast to the scant dinner of country and spending much of my pemmican and ryvita. childhood running up and down them I I emerged from the tent to find a am not now daft enough to spend beautiful morning and an enchanting hours slogging up such peaks so view. Our small camp was by majestic decided on a more gentle walk. It soon peaks. The one to the North West, started to rain and, as the climbers especially, captures my imagination. I were on the final cone, to snow heavily feel I would like to climb it. The so­ so they had to retreat some 300 ft called 'Ladies Peak', fills the below the summit. Another night in background, finely. I took several our cabins then back to the fleshpots. pictures, thought I suspect my shutter has frozen. After a final day spend sailing We collapsed the tents and weighted around Avachinska Bay, fishing and them down with stones. Then we watching White-tailed and Stellars Sea roped up and fairly romped down the Eagles we flew back to Moscow for a glacier. I left lilo, duvet and one days sightseeing. sleeping bag behind, to save weight. The lower icefall looked grand at close I had found Kamchatka to be an quarters and, soon after reaching Camp unusual, fascinating area but not feeling One, the 'Ferry Party' joined us. On as remote as expected. Petropavlovsk the way to Base, Dan took some movie is a large town (300,000 population) pictures in colour, for which I 'played' with an important Vulconology various parts. Institute. It seems that staff from this Had chicken and dehydrated Institute get around into most of the raspberries for dinner. areas on a regular basis thus keeping tracks upon. I feel with a more April 23. "reliable" way of getting there (possibly We all had a lie-in this morning. Had a via Alaska, thus avoiding Aeroflot) discussion on equipment to be returned Kamchatka could become a very home and what could be left. Had a popular area for adventure tourism. pleasant session with the Sherpas regarding their songs. They gave me

TIle YRC Bulletin 18 Summer 1995 the words of one, but it is difficult to April 24. write down the tunes satisfactorily. This morning we .all set out for Camp They spent most of the morning One with varying loads, leaving at 6.40 playing a game with dice, called a.m. and arriving about 8.50 a.m. I Swazo. Arthur and I had a game of went rather better, though I only Patience and then sorted out a few carried 20 lbs. Still, this is easily my extra rations for the High Altitude best time for the trip. A good deal of boxes, mainly meat bars, sardines, and snow has gone from the lower slopes soup. these were then placed into and the higher track is well beaten three polythene bags, one for each down. Arthur and Dan stayed behind. Camp. I started on a book called, I took my time coming back with 'Communism and Christianity', rather George, who was unwelL heavy going. Had salmon for lunch. The usual This evening was quite good fun. I clouds came down rather early today, went down to the kitchen and got the about 10.30 a.m. and the afternoon Sherpas singing. They would sing a brought a fairly long shower of snow. song and then I sang the English We spent the evening, as usual, just equivalent song. Eventually, Crosby, talking in the tent. Arthur and George, attracted by the din, joined us and we continued for Marari. some time. We finished off our part of This young student is our Liaison the show with a rendering of 'Ilkla Officer. Probably about 20 years old, Moor', and an improvised 'Sunhoss he is very intelligent and well-read. His Sherpa'. (Sunhoss is my own is absolutely invaluable to us as an pronunciation of the Sherpa work for interpreter, both with the coolies from 'Goodnight', and seems to cause them Tempathang and the Sherpas. He much amusement). usually feeds with us but, as often as The smoke from the wood fire in the not, prefers the company in the kitchen. kitchen was painful to my eyes and I He came out with us once, on our first had to get a pair of goggles, though recce. ofthe route to Camp One. they didn't make a great deal of difference. The 1958 Journal contains the full expedition

Song for the Beloved Translated by 1. C. Ravalde

Chung di la mi gab la la. Tu le ea di do go go

Da rang la mi gab la la Ni ma 10 le ring chung chung

The YRC Bulletin 19 Summer 1995 CRAMPONS AND CONSERVATION Bill Todd.

They laughed at me at Lowstern when I turned up on the meet, "Hisice-axeis old fashioned, there are hobnails on his feet", But none the less, the President said, pleased by that shining morn, "I'mfed up with the Clapham way, but, let's climb the Inglehorn,

I had the bright idea of going up to Raven Scar, Across the clints to Devil's Pass, it wouldn'tbe too far, So offwe went to Chapel-le-Dale and mounted up the fell, There was Arthur, David, AlanKay and'Juliet as well.

We got into the Devil's Rift Arthur found a way, Whichsteepened up in solid snow just by a little bay, Our leader went with great aplomb but soon stopped in his tracks, "It'sjust a little awkward here, I ought to have an axe"

I felt a little diffident with myoId Aschenbre nner, It hadn't cost an awful lot, at Pool's in Leeds, a tenner, But all my bold companions, now fearful of a fall, Had come onto this mountain without an axe at all.

So up it went from hand to hand our leader used it well, He must have had some practice in the land ofWilliam Tell, The party used the axe in turn to beat the yawning drop, And came out on a milder slope not far below the top.

We stopped and had a bite to eat close by the summit shelter, Up till then, in spite of cloud, the day had been a belter, After lunchwe headedwest and onto SimonFell, Getting soon below the mist things seemed to be going well.

. .

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The YRC Bulletin 20 Summer 1995 .._

When suddenly a steep slope loomed, and with a wild surmise, The party stopped and looked around, concern in all their eyes, For nobody had crampons except your careful poet, lilt's only Ingleborough" they said, and they came to rue it.

Our leader wasn't worried much, his legs were like tree trunks, He just kicked steps and went on down, leaving behind three funks, Then Alan took a walking stick to help him on his way, And David used the ice-axe to get down as best he may.

He cut some steps for Juliet, all well spaced out and neat, While I sat on a tussock and put crampons on my feet, I caught up with my comrades and bent down to quick release; When suddenly we were cordoned by a posse of police.

They'd had a wireless message through it gave them pain to tell, That dire unlawful happenings were going on on Simon Fell, We stammered, pitifully, that we really weren't so bad, The Club had walked on Simon Fell since Slingsby was a lad.

In fact we always had behaved with every due propriety, "Irrelevant," the bobby said "Complaint is from the Society", Four ofyou are in the clear, get moving, on your bikes, The one in real deep trouble is that fellow with the spikes.

The NSPB does not like the use of any gear That's liable to hurt wild creatures, which they all hold dear" This prompted me to speak up clearly in my own defence. "That crampon spikes can harm the birds does not make any sense", Replied the cop, "Your notions need a strong dose of correction. NSPB exists to offer BEETLES due protection".

The YRC Bulletin 21 Summer 1995 Smith up to a stance under an overhang Elidir Fawr 1937 (a globe flower was in full flower there) and then climbed easily over the lip of Arthur Evans the overhang by a move to the right On the first ascent of the 'Corrugated and then stepping up and to the left. Cracks' climb, I found the final crack by far the hardest. Near the top a From there I ran out nearly all of the number of pieces of rock were jammed 150 ft. of alpine line we were using, in the crack and were obviously very moving straight up. The slabs gave loose. They protruded and getting interesting climbing on small holds (I over them without dislodging them was had changed to plimsolls) but found no quite tricky. I was wearing boots stance or belay where I could bring up (tricounis). My second was not so my second. I finished when the slab lucky. He touched them and they all steepened forming a wall, and had to crashed down leaving him dangling on climb back down. the rope. I had thought of calling it 'Avalanche Crack'. My friends arrived that evening and one of them suggested that a piton The climb was a consolation prize. I should be used but I disagreed saying had wanted to find a route up Elidir that it should be left to someone Slabs which then had no climbs on capable of climbing it clean. them. I'd arrived at Idwal Cottage a day ahead of my friends, met Peter The slab route ('Janus') was climbed Smith who had done some climbing thirty years later in 1967, using two and he agreed to come with me to pitons. explore them. The route I chose is now called 'Janus' or close to it. The start is the same. I brought Peter

The YRC Bulletin 22 Summer 1995 "Hands of a Climber: A Life of Colin Kirkus" by Steve Dean

Reviewed by John Lumb

For anyone interested in the history of British rock climbing the name Colin Kirkus stands proudly alongside those other great names in the sport's Pantheon.

During the 1930's Kirkus pioneered a series of climbs that remain some of the finest middle-grade outings in Britain. Indeed, there can be few climbers who have not delighted in 'Nose Direct', 'Great Slab', 'Mickledore Grove', etc. Yet despite the fame of his climbs little has been written about the man himself.

Now, with the publication of 'Hands of a Climber', the man behind the glories is revealed. AB.Hargeaves

In this meticulously researched present, speak with a common biography Dean has unearthed a emphasis on Kirkus' simple joy of wealth of fascinating interactions of being amongst the hills, combined the period, such as Kirkus' preference with a rare modesty for one at the for the bonhomie of Ogwen Youth cutting edge ofthe sport. Hostel compared to the somewhat' more stifled atmosphere of Helyg. Superbly illustrated with many Here also is revealed the mutual previously unpublished photographs respect between Kirkus and that other unearthed from the Alpine Club, this dominant figure of the time, John book is a fine addition to the history Menlove Edwards. It is poignant to ofthe sport. recall that both these great, yet vastly different men would ultimately die in Ultimately, what Dean has achieved in tragic circumstances. this book is a compelling portrait of a shy, modest yet great man. But greatness is not measured in achievement alone. Complementing the many observations of the period are comments from those contemporaries Dean interviewed for "Hands ofa Climber" by Steve Dean, £14.95 this book. Names such as Longland, Ernest Press, 1 Thomas Street, Holyhead, Gwynedd Hargreaves, Pallis. All, past and

The YRC Bulletin 23 Summer. 1995 The Song from the 1994 Annual Dinner J. Dennis Armstrong

chorus Oh Dear what can the matter be, o dear, what can the matter be, o dear, what can the matter be, The YRC's gone to the dog!!

The name "Yorkshire Ramblers" 's now up for emporium, The name that was made by a passing historian, So think of a name that will sound less Victorian To bring the Club out ofthe fog!

chorus o Dear, what can the matter be .....

Its age has increased at a rate geometric For prostates and grey hairs and bald heads, we've a hat trick, We've won the gold medal as Club Geriatric, What other Club's gone the whole hog?

chorus Oh dear, what can the matter be.....

They say there's a female who'd now like to join us, The Pinnacle Club has expelled her unanimous, As gentlemen must we be macho magnanimous, And hope for a clandestine snog!!

chorus Oh dear what can the matter be.....

Now guests, do not think that this song is sedition, To pot hole and climb the big hill's still our mission, So whatever our age we'll stay true to tradition, We'll add to our glorious log!

chorus Oh dear, what can the matter be, Oh dear, what can the matter be, Oh dear, what can the matter be, THIS Club will NOT go to the dog!

The YRC Bulletin 24 Summer 1995 bulging rock all around, I know now The Moon why there were no birds here, its even John Middleton too steep for them! Adrenaline coursed round my veins as more undignified Awstruck, I gasped for breath and lurches took me around an arete and up searched the surrounding cliffs for onto the traverse line of Creeping relief Nothing! Nothing but impending Leema. With difficulty I reversed this overhangs and, 110' below, the roaring, to a stance where, after placing foaming sea sucking at the base of the numerous belays, I settled down, cliffs. My heart pumped harder, sweat dangled my feet over the edge, put a ran freely from the palms of my hands, smirk on my face, fed Peter some slack, my right leg shook uncontrollable. and then waited to see his expression. What a place! How could I possible launch myself out there and survive on The final pitch proved to be this the second sensational pitch of equally as breathtaking, breaching the "The Moon". overhangs directly above the stance. Its slightly easier grade enables time for Whilst not hard by modern composure, allows a better technique, standards "The Moon" has managed to and gives a fuller appreciation of this retain its reputation as one of Britains truly amazing route. classic rock adventures. It was the controversial Ward-Drummond, some Gogarth is situated on the north 23 years ago, who produced this western side of Holyhead island. Its audacious route which finds its way great cliffs rise from the sea for over through the overhangs of Gogarths 400'. The routes, some 500 of them, Yellow Wall. It starts as a full ropes are of all grades from V.S. upwards. length abseil down the cliff to the left Most have to be reached by either of Castel Helen landing on a sloping exciting abseils or even more exciting ledge some 60 feet above the sea. The sea level traverses and it is these which diagonal rock beddings combined with turn a rock climb into an extraordinary the profusion of overhangs above rock adventure. On early acquaintance create a dizzying, glassless 3D effect. the not inconsiderable "Gogarth Grip Three pitches daringly challenge this Factor" should be taken into seemingly impregnable scenario. consideration as this may up the grade by at least one! But ... "Whatever your I had to make the move now, my experience long after you are back in seconds face held a "you are afraid" the warmth and safety of your home smirk. I was, I lurched upwards and part of Gogarth will remain with you rightwards aiming for two small finger in the years to comefar awayfrom the pockets, my feet scraped. along the west you will feel its compelling call edge of nothingness searching for any which will speak to your inner soul. friction. The holds were too small, I Then one day you will return'". I had to move again, this time into a do, every year! series of desperate diagonally upward lunges, past two pegs and onto a short The Moon. E3. 50' 4c. 110' 5c. 95' 5b. term out of balance stance, again on the edge of the void - "spacewalking" 1 Taken from the editor's introduction Ward-Drummond called it. Nothing to the Gogarth Guide, published by the but sea between my legs, nothing but Climbers Club 1990.

TheYRC Bulletin 25 Summer 1995 A Case Against Mixed I am not so blind as to be unable to Membership see the point of the plan. I well understand that the committee are Ian Crowther concerned that, whilst we have been able to replace our membership losses As members will by now know, that at the upper age range reasonably part of the committee's plan for the adequately so far, the fact still remains next twenty five years which pivoted that it is inevitable that our losses around the introduction of mixed sex through natural causes will accelerate membership of the YRC was by the turn of the century. substantiallydefeated by those present My objections to female membership at the special general meeting are more philosophical. We can't following the 1994 AGM. ignore the practical, and we'll no doubt see our new keen recruitment secretary can do in this respect. I nevertheless think that we ignore our gut feeelings at our peril, because if we do then we ignore the fact that our club has always been just that bit different from other clubs. I don't think that most of us really want mixed membership in our hearts, although I believe that some of us think that it would be expedient. I think that these latter delude themselves. All we could seriously expect to get would be a few girlfriends and wives of members. We have been assured that membership criteria would be no different than for male members. I retain some cynicism about this assurance, but I don't think that it really matters all that much, because by far the majority would be brought along as guests, never joining the club, but affecting the ethos of our meets by their very presence. Some might attend frequently enough to be almost accepted as members without ever actually applying for membership - becoming 'part of the scene' without having to put their bona fides to the test, and how long would it be before young children appeared on the scene WCIC at Rowten Pot during the Centenary Year, 1992 with their parents, further disrupting our equilibrium?

'The YRC Bulletin 26 Summer 1995 The 'pro' lobby will no doubt argue doing so & owe it to ourselves and that the acceptance of girlfriends, our loved ones to continue cherishing even as guests, would permit us to our eminently sensible & life enriching better facilitate the intake of young facility. Ladies with a proper sense of male members, possibly from self-esteem will ensure that they have university sources, and we might even similar benefits available to get some good female members also themselves as well. in course of time. I hope that those of you who are not This would be a disgracefully yet in permanent domestic patronizing attitude toward the female partnerships, or have very new ones, sex. If I wanted to join a mixed club, appreciate the wisdom of this then I'd apply to join a proper one & because, if you don't, then I think that so would any sensible woman unless your lives will be the more restricted, she chose to join one of the all-female, a situation that you may live to regret. clubs, amongst whom I detect no enthusiasm for admitting men. Such Regarding our average ages I think evidence as I have is quite to the that we merely reflect the ageing contrary they intend remaining as society in which we live, but rather they are and have said so firmly. One than radically change the nature of leading member of the Pinnacle Club our club I would, albeit regretfully, is reputed to have advised us to 'stay prefer to contemplate a smaller as we are'. They are a mirror image membership. If we shrunk to as low of the YRC and good luck to them! as 100 members it would mean some financial re-thinking, but so long as I've asked myself whether not I we had a hardcore ofactive fellows, it would have joined the YRC had it wouldn't mean the demise of the club been a mixed club in 1962. After 32 any more than did two world wars. years I really don't know. Possibly I would have, but what I definitely do In my address to the members at the know is that like all of us I willingly special meeting I begged them to join joined this all-male club, which I me in rejecting this move which, subsequently learned to value & grew although an experiment, would be to love. irreversible, would damage the nature of our club & thereby impoverish our The great majority of YRC members lives in pursuit of the delusion that it are and have always been married would solve our problems as they are men, and are privileged in that they perceived by the middle aged officials can go onto the hills with their of the club. Our destiny lies families whenever they wish AND elsewhere, and I was very gratified to they can follow their hobby with the note that amongst the substantial YRC away from their womenfolk on majority against the motion were meets. most of the keen younger members present at the meeting. In my view (and that of my wife) it psychologically benefits us in normal I sympathise with incoming President' circumstances to spend time with our Derek Bush & his committee in their friends away from our nearest & dilemma, but can we now please drop dearest. I think we are the better for the matter and get on with our lives?

The YRC Bulletin 27 Summer 1995 What exactly were the sub-committee S GM Blues asking for? Alan Linford Females as automatic members? No. The discussion and voting at the 1994 Children on meets? SGM on recommendation one of the No. forward plan gave me cause for Thin end of the wedge? concern and some thought. No. When members vote at the SGM, do We, the members have total control they vote for what they as an of who is proposed and elected. individual need from the Club or do Certainly not the open door that the they vote for what is best for the 'Case Against' suggests. I see little Club? chance of a non-climbing, non-caving What causes members to remain silent rampant feminist being proposed, or abstain and then discuss the issue seconded, notified to the membership afterwards? and being elected after gaining at least 75% of the votes cast in a ballot of In the 'Case Against' it was suggested the committee. that members joined because it was an all male club. I wonder how many It seems that all that is likely to joined because it was an all male club. happen is that some younger members 'Positively obscene' HR might say. I may have females with them and the joined in 1957 because I wanted to females may feel that they can climb and cave and my sponsors had contribute to the Club activities better transport. A purely selfish interest. It as members, be proposed and elected. was only later that I appreciated the Likely numbers? I suggest perhaps depth of fellowship and comradeship five within ten years with it being so elegantly described in the 'Case unlikely that they all turn up on meets Against'. just as with other, male, new members. In reality it is not a On the issue of what is best for the problem. The sub committee seem to Club, selfish needs must not be be saying we need this facility as a allowed to dominate. I felt the sub­ contribution to the future prosperity committee had managed to separate ofthe Club. emotion from reality and personal (selfish) objectives from what is best I hope the issue will be raised again ­ for the Club. It cannot have been an preferably by the younger, more easy task and I was disappointed at active members. Then it will again the SGM to hear little support for the receive my support. sub-committee (who received majority support from the full Socrates was asked by a young man committee) and any in-depth 'Is it best to be married or remain questioning of how the proposal single?' . The great man replied would be applied. The rejection of 'Whatever decision you make, you the recommendation amounted to a will repent. ' vote of no confidence in the Officers and committee. We will repent 94 SGM.

The YRC Bulletin 28 Summer 1995 Newfoundland Notes. seemed to be getting interested. There is lots of rock! P. Lockwood The west coast is a different story. The hills are approximately 2500 feet The island is equal in size to England and quite spectacular. There are many and Wales. Population approximately fjords with 2000 foot cliffs and these 500,000. St. John's and the Avalon have recently attracted the attention of Peninsula is equal in size to Wales and university students at the Corner is very similar to Telemark (Norway) Brook College. Quite a bit of ice or Sutherland. The majority of the climbing is now being done on near population lives in the Avalon vertical cliffs. This the skiing centre, Peninsula. There are general tourist 'Best Skiing East of the Rockies'! facilities here. Marble mountain near Corner Brook Access to the wilderness is difficult. is now the official site of The '99 One needs trails to go through the Canadian Winter Games and woods which are otherwise development is now taking apace. impenetrable generally. There is also There is also unlimited Nordic skiing a lot of bush which is mainly alder, and heli-skiing on the Lewis Hills. cherry, rowan, birch etc. Geologically, this area is now a approximately eight feet high and national world attraction being very completely impenetrable. In fact old, approximately three billion years, visibility can be lost 100 yards from and is much studied. It corresponds the road. There are also barrens to the hills west of the Great Glen in which are walkable but there are lots Scotland and the Norwegian series. of bogs. Vegetation consists of Access on the island is by roads and blueberries, azaleas etc. these are excellent. However, when approximately two feet high. we arrived in 1958 access was only by Around St. John's there is good coastal boat. coastal walking trails, which are very Labrador is part of the province, but pleasant and can be followed for many here access is very limited indeed. miles. As the cliffs are 4-500 ft, there The Torngat mountains in the North is quite a bit of ascent and descent in are fascinating--gabbro but require a summer. In winter we have cross major expedition to get to them country ski trails, which provide unfortunately! Access to Labrador is skiing very similar to Norway. We by air only to the interior or coastal also have a cross country and alpine boat to the coast. ski clubs in St. John's. About 110 miles away at Clarenvillewe now have Finally, although the province is now a downhill ski resort though the broke with the collapse of the fishery, vertical height is only about 600 to the people are 700 feet. It has become quite popular the most with St. John's "Townies". friendly and In spite of the cliffs there is little helpful, one climbing. 'Old timers' like myself and could wish to a few other immigrants felt that we find. could be a menace to the local society in case of accidents. In recent years, Newfoundland however, a few university students is worth a visit!

The YRC Bulletin 29 Summer 1995 The Character of our a hut, early starts and long days. The sense of achievement after reaching a Alpine Meets 4000m summit is something special. There are a number of older members Dennis Armstrong who, led and encouraged by younger members, have climbed to heights It was the they never thought possible and have September of 1984 that a motion was experienced days they will never passed in committee to hold an Alpine forget. Fathers and sons have Meet in the Summer of 1985. It was climbed together and found the not possible to organise one for that normal order of things reversed and summer and consequently the first both are the wiser for it. one was held at Arolla in 1986. Since then there have been eight1 Alpine Meets and it has established itself in Third, the meet the club's calendar. It is a regular as has a wide appeal, catering for all much as the Spring Bank Holiday kinds of activity. Its appeal is not just Meet in Scotland, the Long Walk or to the '4000m' men, the Alpine Glen Etive. Regular meets take on equivalent of Munroists. There are their own character, partly formed by lesser peaks, still entailing huts and the location, the season and the the like, but not requiring ice members who seem to be regulars. climbing. These are referred to as So it is proving with the Alps Meets. 'snow trudges' and are quite exciting It is the purpose of this article to try enough for some. There are walks and describe what that is. over the passes, climbing to 3000m and seeing the big peaks from the foothills, And there are usually First, by definition interesting low level valley walks, of the meet is out of the UK, and to differinglengths and character, for the make the expense worthwhile it is 'off days'. usually for two weeks, twice as long as the Spring Bank Meet Holiday in Scotland. Because of the distance Fourth, usually the and the many of those weather can be relied on to be good. attending take the meet seriously: Though not always, the 1987 meet at most have done some homework on Saas Grund was unfortunate. The the region, bought maps beforehand probability of good weather has its and come prepared, Also the meet is effect upon the meet. Plans can longer, so there is time to get to know usually be put into action without fear one another, no matter whether that of hitting storms. People are out person spends the meet front pointing doing things, and the atmosphere in up ice or photographing flowers in the the evenings is warm, relaxed and valleys. Not that those activities are pleasant. This year, the camp site was mutually exclusive: some do both. lower down than usual, and at 800m in the Lauterbrunnen valley at midday it was often too hot to be Second, again by comfortable. You had to get out of definition, the mountains are big. the valley, up to 1500m to reach the They often entail heavy carry up to refreshing air.

The YRC Bulletin 30 Sununer 1995 Alps as much as the YRC and he had Fifth, there are to earn his money during the peak women and children there: wives and season. 'Why not come at another partners of older members mostly, time,' he asked 'and have the site to because they realise that to go away yourself?' The problem for the YRC alone, for two weeks, such a distance, is that as more members want to is not really 'on'. It is not a normal come the harder it is to find good meet. One president brought his sites at peak season. We may have to active daughter, but she unfortunately consider the Pyrenees, or the has not been again. One member Dolomites, which may be less regularly brings his two small children crowded. Alternatively change to and they all fit in without difficulty. another period, say the last two For the most part the younger weeks in August. members do not bring their girl friends. I am tempted to say that they do not want to be encumbered. It is true success also true that without wives some of the Alps Meet is that it has members would do more. They have attracted younger members, possibly to consider what is realistic and more than any other single move. accept that it is better to come and do Archaic overtones in our club's name something rather than not come at all. become irrelevant once the guests arrive. There are perhaps ten younger members who have joined the club as Usually there are a result of the challenge and the twenty to thirty people on the meet ­ opportunities of the Alps Meet. It about average attendance. The camp would be wrong to end this article sites are inevitably crowded as it is without referring to David Smith. the peak holiday season at the end of Not only for all the sterling work he July and early August. The snow is has put in to establish this meet by supposed to be at its best and organising most of them, but also for everyone is trying to take advantage his involvement with the guests and of it. It would be nice to report that younger members on the site and, the camp sites are isolated, away from above all, in the highest places. the maddening throng, but alas it would be untrue. Those planning the 1 eight includingNorway meet have worked hard to make sure that the YRC party is together. The more popular the spot the more difficult this is. Argentiere in 1989 was probably the most chaotic. This year, at Lauterbrunnen, the coach parties of young students drastically overcrowded the facilities, and there were queues for the showers up to midnight and beyond. The site manager apologised but said that if he accepts block booking from the YRC then why not from others too. The young students wanted to enjoy the

The YRCBulletin 31 Summer 1995 Obituary

Jack Ratcliffe

(Member 1962 - '75 & 1977 - '88)

Jack was a likeable character who was very easy to get on with. He will be best remembered, perhaps, as a good companion on the hills and also as a good friend of his fellow teacher, our one-time hut warden, Denis Driscoll. Together they built the Lakeland stone fireplace at Low Hall Garth and the floors in the washroom areas.

He died suddenly on the 1st December 1994 at the age of 82 while collecting Jack enjoyed walking, fishing, stone logs and loading them into his camper walling, woodworking and making van in preparation for constructing a walking sticks from carefully selected rustic garden seat. His wife relates wood collected on walks. He loved that he left home earlier and looked the Lakeland hills and indeed the happiest man on Earth. A man mountains in general. He married who always kept busy despite the Lillian, at the age of 76, after the warning of a slight heart attack while death of his first wife. Together they playing bowls; he played on to the end fulfilled his long standing ambition of of the game. visiting New Zealand and walking the Routeburn Track. Jack climbed alone up to the summit of Conical Hill. They again visited New Zealand in 1993 but a back pain denied him further exploration of the hills.

Lillian very much enjoyed being introduced to the hills by Jack. He took her to some frightening places but left her with wonderful memories. He is survived by his wife, son and daughter, six grandchildren and three great-grandchildren. His son and grandson are both climbers. Many of his contemporaries will, like me, have happy memories of Jack.

F.D.Smith March 1995

The YRC Bulletin 32 Summer 1995 Obituary two routes described as 'delicate. and difficult', in the Amphitheatre of Craig A. David M. Cox yr Ysfa. He called the first route (1913 - 1994) Sodom - 'because there was no looking back' - but the guide book In 1949, the first tutorial I ever had at editors regarded that name as too Oxford was with David Cox. When I strong. Its name was changed to went to his rooms I found the walls Spiral Route. A pity, because the were hung with photographs of second is still called Gomorrah, After Himalayan mountains. I had already the war he wrote the guide book for become interested in mountains and I Craig yr Ysfa. can remember gazing about m We were talking one day about the admiration, my essay forgotten. I pre-war climbers. Yes, David knew noticed that his bookcases had rows of many of them. He remained quiet, Alpine Club and Climbers' Club and moved his pipe from one side of journals, along side the professional his mouth to the other, a gesture I historian's usual journals. I asked knew he used, ifhe did not wish to be (stupidly) did he climb? So this first drawn. I pressed to ask him more. tutorial started rather late as he David then went on to indicate that he seemed more interested in what I had thought some of them were a little too done, than telling me what he had boastful. One day some luminary was done. I was to discover that this was boasting about climbing Lot's Groove, the hallmark of David Cox. He had a a Colin Kirkus VS on Glyder Fach. way of making young people valued, 'He said it could only be done in admiring your achievements and rarely rubbers; so next day we went and did mentioning his own feats. it in boots. ' He was born in Plymouth and began During the war, he joined the Royal to climb as a boy on the Dartmoor Artillery. When the War Office was Tors. He went up to Oxford in 1932 looking for mountaineers to teach and by Easter 1934 he was good commandos, David was transferred to enough to do Longland's Climb on the Mountain Warfare School then run Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. That summer' .by John Hunt, arid spent the rest of the he went to the Alps and climbed' war as an Instructor. He taught rock Pointe Albert and Aiguille de I'M. In climbing to soldiers in the Middle East autumn 1934, Robin Hodgkin (later on the Golan Heights and in Canada. the Headmaster of Abbotsholme) Towards the end of the war, he was arrived in Oxford and they became back instructing in Wales. It was climbing companions. In 1936 they during that time he produced another climbed Climbers' Club Direct Climb breath-taking first ascent, Sheaf Climb on Dewerstone in Devon. In June on the west buttress of Clogwyn. In 1937 Hodgkin and he camped under 1986 he was interviewed by 'High' Clogwyn Du'r Arddu with the about that first ascent. He described daughters of George Mallory, Clare how his companion on the climb had and Berridge. They made. several injured himself, light was fading, and significant new variations on that crag things were getting desperate. He and at the end of the week, he led the knew he had to find a way up the last first ascent of Sunset Crack. In July pitches. For once David sounded like 1938, he made the first ascent, solo, of Whillans. In 1957 he used a period of

The YRCBulletin 33 Sununer 1995 sabbatical leave to go to the last moment. I remember him saying Himalayas with Wilfred Noyce. They before the 1981 dinner, when he saw climbed to within 150 feet of the Douglas Milner's name among the sacred summit of Machapuchare, guests, that Milner would have done it (6997m), near Annapurna. Noyce much better. And he was probably wrote later: 'At this point, two right, for in truth, David was too respectably married men decided they modest a man to be assertive as an should leave the mountain to her after dinner speaker. The YRC was stormy privacy.' David was typically the sort of club he enjoyed. It had frank: about their achievement: 'To standards. Knowing how much David say we climbed it was a plain untruth.' valued this contact with the club, in When he returned, he began to feel 1985 I had the pleasure of proposing unwell. His breathing became his name as an Honorary Member. He increasingly difficult. It was in fact the regarded it a great honour to be onset of poliomyelitis but he thought included officially in our proceedings, he had influenza. He decided to shake particularly as he could now tell Cliff it off by cutting the lawn, the worst that he could pay for his own dinner in thing he could have done. While the future. He came out on the After pushing the mower, suddenly he Dinner Walks, using his sticks, stiffened.. He was rushed to the enjoyingthe conversation, happy to be Radcliffe Infirmary in Oxford, where there, among the hills, the company he spent nearly a year in an iron lung. and the friendship of the YRC. He was never to regain full use of the Anyone meeting David during the late chest muscles and the controlling 1980's would be excused if they found nervous system. But he remained as it difficult to imagine him in his youth, serene as ever, continuing to teach and in North Wales, or the Alps, at the research at Oxford and to play an forefront of pre-war climbing. He had active part in mountaineering circles. a good brain, (he had gained first class He accepted the Editor of the Alpine honours and was elected a Fellow of Club Journal in 1962 and was All Soul's College in 1937), he was President of the Alpine Club from strong, and he had the build and 1971 - 1973. Although conservative balance of a gymnast. He was also by instinct, he accepted the changes of meticulous and determined. When the time, and during his presidency he these qualities were understood, it was prepared the ground (in the face of not difficult to imagine him on a rock many die-hards) for the club's face, in nailed boots or plimsolls, out amalgamation with the Ladies Alpine on a long lead, when protection was in Club. He retired in 1984 as Vice­ its infancy, assessing the possibilities, Master of University College. and when ready, making the move David's connection with the YRC took without haste. If others were better root when he was the Principal Guest known, then that did not matter. He in 1974. Thereafter, Cliff Downham had had his sport. He had achieved regularly asked him to the dinner, and what he set out to do and unlike a real friendship grew between many others, he had survived. Despite his members of the YRC and this quiet disability and the tragic death of one unassuming don. In 1981 he was the of his daughters, he moved through Principal Guest a second time, when life without any rancour or malice. It due to backword, he stood in at the was as though the mountains had

The YRCBulletin 34 Summer 1995 given him an inner strength. This more important he was gentleman, contentedness communicated itself to whom to know was a privilege. those who knew him and we would come away feeling the better. David Photograph Dennis Armstrong Cox was an outstanding climber, but Jim Perrin 6 December 1994

The YRCBulletin 35 Summer Ged Campion and Graham Salmon spent part of the Christmas period in Dr Stephen Craven of the France continuingtheir explorations of Mountaineering Club of South Africa the same cave system. For the second is seeking information. He has read ­ time they had to return home minus in the Craven Herald review of much of their gear which remained at Mitchell's, Ingleborough, The Big the foot of the first pitch. After one Blue Mountain, 1994 - of a Miss Mary long period underground they Booth and her brother Harry, of Ben emerged to find a blizzard raging. In Rhydding, descending Gaping Gill. the course of the ski trip back to the He is researching a possible link village Ged was engulfed in an between these two and people of the avalanche and buried in one metre of same name he knew in Ben Rhydding snow with only his head sticking out. but did not associate with the YRC or He was quickly excavated and caving. Harry he remembers as being suffered no serious injury. 'a stooped, round and full-faced man'. Dr Craven is interested in any connection between the Booths he Arthur Evans has written with more knew and the YRC, Fred Booth or the details of the Liverpool University SingletonBooths. Club. He has since learned that the LURCC did not peter out but was A most senior member of the club, voluntarily closed down. This came who knew the Booths well, assures about after it had been run in such a me that there is no such connection. way that there were no women Some members of the MCSA are members. This was contrary to the intending to reprint the early MCSA rules of the University Clubs. They Annuals (1-13, 1984 - 1907) in two were told either to admit women or hard-back volumes bound in vinyl. close down and they chose the latter. The cost is likely to be £30 (R150) The formation of the LUMC arose and the edition limited to 250 when a number of climbers met while numbered copies. If you wish to at Helsby and North Wales and secure a copy contact Dr. Craven at decided to form a club. Arthur was 301 Huis Vincent, Ebenezer Road, chosen as the first treasurer. Wynberg 7800, South Africa. Our summary of Arthur's climbing was innaccurate. A clearer version Finally he recommends the warm dry appers elsewhere in this issue. caves of the area and offers to effect introductions for any of our members visiting the area if they want to cave The unacknowledged cover or climb. photograph on the last issue of the Bulletin was one ofJohn Cleare's.

The YRC Bulletin 36 Summer 1995 Bill Todd and Jack Wilson have been The faces have been enlarged and making a name for themselves on copied here. Raven Scar (on the Northwest face of Ingleborough, across the valley from Twisleton Scar) or at least a little to the north of it. Fiddle (V.Difi) is a prominent chimney and Fun (Difi) is a prominent mushroom shaped block still further to the north.

Michael Smith has paid a recent visit to Mallorca and having walked part of the Torrente de Pareis, watched sea turtle from Formentor and visited several watchtowers, is looking forward to the meet report from the Club's visit there this year.

The invitation comes from material which formed part of a bequest to the Club by George T. Lowe, our first President.

Along with the invitation was a sketch entitled 'The Passing of the Old Wigwam' and dated 1st Feb. 1912. The sketch has been signed on the back and many YRC names are recognised amongst those attending. The above sketch is part of an invitation which read... The sketch and signatures are copied on the next few pages. The less 149A, Briggate, Leeds, obvious signatures have been 15th February, 1901, Dear Bro. Savage, enlarged. I have much pleasure in informing you that three anonymous and unanimous Savages If any of our older members can shed have decided to give a Pow-Wow at the light on the 'Savages' or the Wigwam of the Chief, 3, Woodhouse Lane, 'Wigwam' the Editor will be pleased on..... By order of the Chief, to publish the information in a future C.Scriven, bulletin. Any help with identifying the The Scribe. signatures would also be appreciated.

The YRCBulletin 37 Summer 1995 The sketc h an d the signatures the which were found on reverse.

The numbere d stg. naturesh are d overt e shown, enlarge 'long with the next two pages a names w hic.h are known.

'The YRe Bulletin 38 Summer 1995 1 George T Lowe I

," 2 ?

3 Lewis Moore f 4 4 ?

5 ?

6 Charles W Harding

7 ?

r I 8 ? I

9 ER Crosse? 10 Antiquary ? 11 Jester? 12 RC Oldham 13 Percy Robinson

14 ? 15 Frank Dean? 16 William H Lamb?

17 ?

c 18

19 ?

The YRC Bulletin 39 Summer 1995 20 20 S? Forbel ?

21

22 23 22 George Barber? 23 Mark Senior? 25 . 24 Edmund Boggs ?

25 ? 26 ... .. I 26 Edwin Tindale ?

.. 27 Charles W Wilkinson 28 . 28 Sheard?

29 AF C?· ( \,,1

30 ?

31 31 Jones?

32 Ernest Forbes ? (From the actual sketch entitled Passing ofthe Old Wigwam')

TIleYRC Bulletin 40 Summer 1995 THE R D S I G N A T U RES

Although some may think that I have always been a member of the YRC I regret I have not and the best I can make of the signatures from The Passing of the Old are as follows:

1. George T.Lowe. One of our founder members 1892 - 1942

2. J.A.Moxon.

3. Lewis Moore. A great member 1892 -1933

4. Yale.

5. Joseph Towers 1892 -1893 6. Charles harding

7. Carter

8. Seuriato

9. E.R.Cross

10. Antiquary

11. K.E.Stephens

12. R.C.Oldham

13. Percy Robinson The inventor of communal catering in the YRC

14. F.M.Cuttriss had S.W.Cuttriss in 1894

15. Frank Dean

16. had a Percy H. Lamb In 1894

17. Frank Atthaise

18. George T.Bailey

19 F.Miles Waite

20. Ernest Frobes

21. R. Smith Could be Ralph Smith 1892 - 1904

22. George Barber

23. Mark Senior

24. Edmund Boggs

25. Fred 31. W.N.Jones

26. W.Edwin Tindale 32. Ernest Forbes

27. Charles 28. Joseph Sheard The Grampian Club Bulletin, 1994 (46pp, AS), contains articles on New Zealand, the rapidly opening area of An article, 'Climbing up the wall' Tien Shan, Ballooning in Tuscany, . the Economist of 11 March is Pyrenees, Israel, Hell's Lum, Glen highlighted by Dennis Armstrong. It Carron, Crete and snow scooters in contrasts the safe climbing races Norway. Their membership is 226 possible on an indoor wall, injury only with 18 new (associate) members every 18 600th visit, with the free joining to maintain a steady number. climber high on a cliff seeking 'to over -come his natural fears by using his rational mind to mitigate the dangers.' Plans for the 1995 YRC expedition to With the safety has come popularity Nepal are taking shape. The dates and the 'sexier and glitzier' face of the have been finalised as the 1st Qct. to indoor scene. The number of USA the 10th Nov. Financial support will climbing gyms, each averaging 200 probably have been secured by now members, is 170, compared with the for some of the team from a charitable 500 British indoor walls. There is trust. A commercial sponsor is some consolation in the remark that backing the venture with £250 in 'outdoor free-climbing remains a addition to the British Mountaineering liberating and unconventional activity. Council's £800 grant and an award of The men and women who free­ £700 from the Mount Everest climbed routes for the first time used a Foundation. Alan Kaye will be combination of sinew and nerve pleased to hear from you with further unknown to indoor climbers' with money raising ideas or a donation. their protection and crash mats.

Just before the start of the official Alpine Meets a large group of members and guests visited the Pyrenees. This was one of the peaks visited. One party camped by the tarn having walked up in shorts only to endure several hours of violent thunderstorm through the night. The remaining low cloud robbed them of the superb views as they scrambled the next day to reach a lightning shattered summit.

The YRC Bulletin 41 Summer 1995 00 See Y at the Meet? provide some facts. These figures are lain Gilmour rather heavy going, and most of us will You may see a particular fellow member skip to the next article, but probably not on a meet, but probably only if he is one before checking where we ourselves ofthe fifty or sixty members who attend would fit into the table. more than one meet in a year. The most likely reaction to the data Recent discussions about club below, is to remind ourselves that we membership posed questions about need to continue attracting young recruitment and average age, and the members, and providingthe sort ofmeet following statistics were produced to which appeals to them.

Year 1993 1994 N.B. Only reported meets are included and the Annual

Number ofMembers 186 187 +I Dinner has been excluded

Average Age 57.1 57.5 +0.4 from the calculations.

Number of Active Members 95 88 -7

Av. Age of Active Members 52.9 55.4 +2.5 The number of active

Av. Meets per active Member 3.27 2.88 -0.39 members and the average number of meets attended by

Number ofReported Meets 18 14 -4 an active member may have

Av. Number attending a Meet 17 18 +1 been affected by the smaller

Av. Age of those on a Meet 54.3 55.8 +1.5 number of reported meets.

35 How many meets did individual members attend in 1993 & 1994? 30 e 25 20 15 01993 1111994 5 o 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8, 9 10 11 12 13 Number of meets attended

Editor's Note: record ofweights for a pig indicates a There is an ancient Chinese proverb steady loss of weight then it might be along the lines of "You can't fatten a worth considering a more fattening pig by weighing it", However if your diet and the health of the pig!

The YRC Bulletin 42 Summer 1995 Access into the high mountains was Alpine Meet 1994 not particularly straight forward, with many of the routes to huts proving to Bernese Oberland be substantially longer than in other The meet parts of the Alps visited by the Club The Bernese Oberland in the Swiss on previous meets. The difficulty of Alps was the venue for the 1994 YRC penetrating the north wall from the Alpine Meet, held between 23rd July valleys meant that the only practical and 6 August . The valley base was means of getting up high was to on the outskirts of Lauterbrunnen, succumb to the mechanical delights of near Interlaken. the exorbitantly priced mountain railway to the Jungfraujoch, which The attendees provides an excellent gateway to the The following twenty two members heart of the Oberland. and guest sampled the delights of this magnificent part of the Swiss Alps: With hindsight, the best arrangement Ken Aldred for those wishing to climb high would Dennis and Joan Armstrong have been to have taken the Dennis Barker and Anne Edwards Jungraujoch train and done a hut to TimBateman hut tour taking in some the stunning Alan Brown peaks en route. John Devenport Mike and Marcia Godden The campsite David Hick Alan Linford did a marvellous job in Alan and Angie Linford arranging camping and caravan places Harvey Lomas in our own corner of TCS Camp Site Alister Renton Schutzenbach on the outskirts of Graham Salmon Lauterbrunnen, run by the amiable David and Elspeth Smith Chris von Allmen, whose staff looked Graham Steine after us well. Alan even managed to Martyn Wakeman negotiate a group discount, including Barrie Wood a further discount for those nights Daniel Wood when members stayed up in the mountains. Although quite a large site The Location with a large transient population of Lauterbrunnen was an ideal centre, youth groups, mainly from the USA providing easy access to Interlaken, and the Far East "doing Europe", the and the nearby villages of Kandersteg, facilities just about coped with the Grindelwald, Murren, Wengen and numbers. The staff even telephoned Stechelberg, with a comprehensive huts to book places for us when we network of paths linking many of were planning trips into the these, providing a paradise for mountains, at no charge, which was walkers of all ages and abilities. The most welcome! (Telephone 036 55 12 area is steeped in climbing history 68, Fax 036 55 12 75) with the mountains of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau forming the The location of the campsite was north wall of the Bernese Oberland spectacular, with vertical and even and trapping the largest glacial in the overhanging cliffs soaring above the Alps just behind them. lush valley bottom, broken only by the

The YRCBulletin 43 Summer 1995 waterfalls that fell uninterrupted for Maps and guidebooks the full height of the cliffs. The end of Several maps were available for the the valley was dominated by the area, with sheets 264 (Jungfrau) and precipitous north face of the 254 (Interlaken) at 1:50,000 covering Breithorn that provided a beautiful the areas visited by people on the backdrop. There were even sounds as meet. In addition, there was the well as sights, with the peel of the composite sheet 5004 (Berner church bells often providing a tuneful Oberland) covering a larger area. echo around the rock walls of the valley. The best climbing guide covering the The weather whole area was 'Bernese Oberland Despite most of the party arriving at Selected Climbs' by Les Swinden and the campsite during or just after a published in 1993 by the Alpine Club, very heavy storm on the first which included both the mountain Saturday, on the whole we were routes and also a selection of rock blessed with remarkably good routes. There was of course a good weather, especially when we were in selection of guide books and topo the mountains when we were guides in French and German to be generally accompanied by windless found in the book and gear shops to days and azure skies. There were the be found in most of the towns and regular thunderstorms as is common villages. in the Alps during the summer months. One particularly bad day in the mountains saw a large fall of new For walkers, probably the most snow, probably about a foot deep on comprehensive guide book was the summit of the Jungfrau. In the 'Walking in the Bernese Oberland' by high mountains, the snow usually Kev Reynolds and published by froze during the night, although the Cicerone Press, which provided many high daytime temperatures did soften ideas for excursions undertaken it considerably by late during the course of the meet.

The YRC Bulletin 44 SU11U11er 1995 The Tschingelhorn (3577m) seemed a never ending snow slope. by Alister Renton Luckily, they had plenty of room for us and the hut warden muttered It was on the Welsh meet that the something in German about the thought of going to the Alps this year telephone. We ate well that evening entered my head. Barrie Wood was and went to bed as we were all quite going and had a spare place in the car. tired. Before no time at all I found myself sat on the ferry on the way out to the Next morning we woke at 4.00 am Alps. We drove right the way though and had a warm chocolate drink for and arrived in Lauterbrunnen at about breakfast. Only two of us set out. The 10.30 am on the Sunday morning. morning sunrise was quite spectacular, something I had not seen Heading out of the campsite were before and so early in the day. We Graham Salmon and Martyn walked over the pass and continued Wakeman on their way up to the downhill to the foot of the couloir. Mutthorn Hi.itte with a view to doing There were a number of parties in the Tschingelhorn the next day. "An front of us as both myself and Tim easy peak for acclimatisation " they were feeling the altitude. The going told us at 3,655m. up the couloir was tough, quite steep and people were passing us on their Next day saw our team of Daniel, way down. Once at the top of this Tim, Barrie and myself getting our section we paused for a rest before gear ready. We tried to book the hut continuing up the rocky ridge to the up by telephone but were unable to summit snow slope. On the top we get a reply so we opted to go up there were rewarded with splendid views of in the hope that we would not be all the peaks around. turned away. The bus arrived and we boarded and paid the fare to We spent quite a while at the summit Stechelberg. before we made our way back down. The couloir took quite a while to Once we had arrived in Stechelberg, negotiate as the snow was getting we found the path and started the 4 soft. Anyway we got down safely and hour walk. The sun was beating down walked back to cross the pass. A on us. The temperature was just too helicopter had landed in the snow so hot for me. We stopped a few times we watched this before continuing. and drank plenty of water. It seemed Once over the pass we went back to take ages to get onto the moraine down the snow slope to the hut. By but even then the hut was still a fair this time we were both very tired. We distance away. Just before we got to had a long deserved drink at the hut the snow line we came across Graham and sat down on the veranda. We and Martyn on their way back down. could not decide whether to walk We stopped and talked with them for down to the valley because we did not a while before it was time for us to now the times of the last back down continue up to the hut. When we to Lauterbrunnen. Anyway we arrived at the snow line we roped up thought that we would risk it and go initially as one party of four, but a down. We collected our belongings little further on we split into two and started off. The snow was very groups. We continued up what soft and this made the going difficult.

The YRC Bulletin 45 Summer 1995 We did not stop until we had come This year after a successful warm up below the snow line. Once below the trip to the Tschingelhornwith the two snow we again had a rest as by now Davids Smith and Hick, we were we were having to carry a wet 11 mm looking for our next route, when I rope and it weighed an absolute ton!! remembered these beautiful mountains, and it was soon agreed All was going well on the descent that this would be the area for our until a threatening thunderstorm hit next venture. A fairly long drive took us. It absolutely poured down. We us round to Kandersteg, from where sheltered under a tree. Not the best we were able to let a chair lift relieve place!!! We sat there for about 20 about an hours uphill slog. Before minutes before we made the decision long we were walking through the to go for it. We kept on passing signs forest above the stunning blue waters for the valley but the time seemed to of the Oeschinensee, a truly beautiful be getting longer. lake set amongst precipitous cliffs. The Blumlisalp hut was clearly visible We arrived in Stechelberg. We were located prominently located just hoping that there would be a bus or if above the pass at Hohturli, some four not we would have to walk. Luckily hours walk away. there was a bus in about 30 minutes so we sat down to wait. Then I All the time I was conscious of rather noticed a note at the bottom of the ominous clouds heading towards us timetable, Tim came over. "Alister from the west. It wasn't very long and Tim, a car will come at 9.00 pm before the first drops of rain hit us, so to pick youup . David" - the time was we decided to seek shelter under 8.58 pm - what timing. Barrie's car some smallish trees, but to no avail. arrived and we got in and headed for The storm crashed around us and the the camp site. It had been a very long force ofthe rain ensured that we got a day but it was an excellent peak and I good soaking. The two Davids found would not have missed the a novel use for their orange bivi bags experience. i.e. standing upright in them to form (rather silly looking but probably quite effective) portable shelters. The Morgenhorn (33612m) Eventually the rains ceased and we by John Devenport continued our journey, walking not Several years ago, after an alpine more than a couple of hundred yards meet in another part of Switzerland I to find the path passing under a huge had ventured to the Kandertal and overhanging cliff that made Kilnsey walked up to spend a night at the look quite tame, and to add insult to Blumlisalp hut. The hut is in very injury there was a large wooden seat impressive surroundings with a line of located in a perfectly dry part of this three peaks forming a spectacular huge natural shelter! snowy backdrop. One in particular caught my attention, the Weisse Frau, Continuing upwards the path left the which formed an almost perfect snow forest and passed through the lush pyramid, and I thought the time meadows of Unter Bergli before that it looked a possible candidate for rising steeply through a line of cliffs, further attention on a future visit to complete with lots of safety chains the Alps. and cut steps, to the higher meadow

The YRC Bulletin 46 Summer 1995 of Ober Bergli. At this point we were There was plenty of space in the given a spectacular introduction to large, well appointed hut, so a the Blumlisalp range, whose relatively comfortable night was spectacular peaks and tumbling enjoyed. glaciers would accompany us on our right hand side all the way to the hut. A cloudless night sky greeted us when The views compensated for the rather we set out up the glacier towards the tedious and quite steep slog, which base of the Weisse Frau. By first light was interrupted by yet another heavy we were fumbling our way up an thunderstorm, so out came the two uncomfortably loose rock ridge, and Davids orange bags again, this time in we were also wasting a lot of the middle of the path much to the precious time. It was obvious that amusement of a group of Swiss progress would be slow in reaching workmen repairing a fence. I decided even the bottom of the long, steep to get wet again - after all I did have snow/ice slope leading towards the some pride!! summit, and we were unsure about what sort of condition it would be in We arrived at the hut in glorious so we decided to cut our losses and sunshine and our gear soon dried out. headed down the rotten rock ridge We had taken our own food, but and across to the broad snow/ice unlike every other Swiss hut I have slopes of its near neighbour, the stopped in, we had to cook it Morgenhom. ourselves in the cosy little kitchen

TIleYRCBulletin 47 Slimmer 1995 All of the other parties were heading The Wetterhorn (3701m) this way, many making slow progress by Barrie Wood and it wasn't long before we caught many of them up as we all wound our After, much discussion about the way up the spectacularly crevassed various merits and difficulties of the broad face of the mountain. The surrounding peaks we decided that higher we went the steeper the slopes the Wetterhorn from the Dossen became, and the higher we went the Hutte offered an interesting and not thinner the snow cover became, so too difficult route up this classic that eventually we were climbing up a summit. steep slope of water ice. In front a French rope of three included a young Some height was gained driving up to teenage girl, who was only just the car park at Rosenlaui from where coping with the steep icy conditions. the hut could be seen on the distant skyline. Initially the path took us Suddenly, we emerged onto the through pine woods and over amazing summit ridge of the limestone slabs that, promised an Morgenhorn, with its highly corniced, interesting descent in the wet. As we contorted ridge leading towards the approached the moraine the path summit of the Weissefrau some half steepened and ladders and wires mile distant. The views into the heart appeared - so did the afternoon of the Oberland were breathtaking, thunderstorm. Fortunately we were and we stayed on the summit ridge for close to the bivi hut and spent half an quite a while, having a late breakfast hour or so sitting underneath it out of and capturing the images on film. the rain. Sitting in a metal cage watching the lightning was quite It was obvious that the intense heat of atmospheric, but Daniel explained the sun would be turning the crisp that this was the safest place to be as snow to mush, so a quick but cautious it formed a gaussian cage. It was not descent was made down the steep until the storm had passed that we snow slopes back to the glacier discovered that the hut was open and below, then to the hut. The peace of could have passed the time in short refreshment break in the blazing comfort, so much for the guide sun on the terrace outside the hut was books! The rock steepened as we rudely interrupted by the first of the neared the ridge and gave a very airy many day visitors arriving at the hut, and slippery half hour. so it seemed an appropriate time to leave. The warden seemed puzzled on the arrival of three people when only two The cooling, soothing waters of the had booked in and had some difficulty Oeschinensee refreshed my tired, hot in understanding the concept of feet near the end of the descent to the poverty and the British student, valley. And I felt glad that I'd returned obviously not a Swiss problem. After with my two friends to sample some worrying about this for an hour or so, of the delights of these beautiful she invited Graham in free of charge. mountains. Could this be a first in Swiss alpine climbing?

The YRC Bulletin 48 Sununer 1995 The following morning we started out when I accompanied Denis Barker to under a starry sky up the glacier to the Alpine Meet. the Dossensattel. The route from here to the Rosenlaui glacier was down an The Lauterbrunnen valley, a narrow avalanche prone couloir, so we canyon carved out by a glacial traversed further along the rock ridge torrent, was under heavy cloud when to join it further up. We reached the we reached the campsite - nothing Welhornsattel after· about three hours like the sunny upland meadows with and turned north to gain the crest at sweet flowers and soft cowbells of my the bottom of the final slope, where expectations. Nor did the thousand several other parties from the foot high cliffs looming on either side Gleckstein Hutte joined the route. and pierced by sheer falls of water look promising to a geriatric We reached the top in four hours with recent walking experience. of the which was a narrow ridge about 30 Pentlands and Southern Uplands metres long and after eating and (apart from an attack of vertigo on admiring the view we retraced our Snowdon at the YRC May Meet). steps. The snow had by now become Alan Linford's assurance that the area soft in the sun and crampons was filled with walks tailor-made for were no longer required. This led to a me was delivered against a careless slip on some ice which soundtrack of thunder, roaring water removed a large area of skin from my and the sharpening of crampons, so forearm, the only mishap of the was met with scepticism. The idea of outing. a flight from Geneva back home to Edinburgh became attractive. We detoured slightly to look at the Dossen with a view to doing it the But the next day up came the sun following day. It did not inspire us over the cliff (as it did at precisely and the condition of the snow which 10.27 am for the next fourteen had deteriorated further in the heat mornings) and the beauty of the and the general poor quality of the scene, crowned by Breithorn rock in the area we decided not to lining up to its name at the head ofthe bother. Later that evening we valley, lifted the spirits. A little witnessed a hug rock fall from the exploration and map reading proved same peak which added weight to our that Alan was not just being kind; the decision. cliffs were indeed networked by circular paths, steep and sometimes The walk back to Rosenlaui was precipitous but well maintained, achieved in hot sunny conditions which enabled the steady walker to concluding a very enjoyable outing. rise up above the Lauterbrunnental to Heidi-like villages whose carpets of Alpine flowers far exceeded my A first visit to Heidi-land expectations. And these meadows by Anne Edmonds gave views of the great peaks, Jungfrau, Monch , Eiger and, most Aged eleven, Heidi by Spyri was my awe inspiring of all, Schreckhorn, favourite book. Fifty years later, my unbelievable in their power and first ever visit to Heidi-land came beauty.

The YRC Bulletin 49 Summer 1995 The villages could be reached by when with thousands of others we train; we did ascend the Schynige went over the meadows to Kleine Platte (above Interlaken at the Scheidegg, a railway stop akin to northern entrance to the valley) at Blackpool sea front, and then across enormous expense and visited an ridge, losing the crowds as we alpine garden which, to the non­ went and revelling in close-ups of the botanist, seemed inferior to what we four great peaks, to Mannlichen - then saw on our walks. The walk down down a steep but varied path, past from Schynige - four hours on a avalanche stoppers through woods circular path through thick, unnatural and meadows back to Wengen and forest with no glimpses of the lakes home again. When Denis, from the below was also a disappointment. safety of the tent showed me our After this we left the trains to the route down, I was horrified to see non-walkers on search of views and that I had descended a precipice. But to the serious climbers taking a short over the fortnight I found familiarity cut to their starting base. Our walks with the heights led to a lessening of used the paths to the villages and the vertigo; I was not even put off areas served by trains - Grindelwald, a when Harvey witnessed a fatal fall wide and fertile valley, Heidi territory from a path I had walked. and pleasant walking but over touristed; Wengen, a very smart The best walk was from Stechelberg, resort east of our valley, Gimmelwald the village at the head of the and Murren to the west (approached Lauterbrunnental, up an easy path by the usual steep winding path giving which took us through hanging more distant vies of the great peaks), valleys in front of the Smadrigafalle. also smart but with a workaday This long, high waterfall could be element too. It was reassuring to find seen from the camp as it comes off that the Swiss practice traditional the Breithorn glacier to create the farming, reaping the steeply sloping Weisse Lutschine, the torrent that hay meadows by scythe and turning dominates Lauterbrunnen, This walk the hay by hand fork, as well as the had everything that makes traditional craft of ripping off the Switzerland so lovely; high snow tourist. covered peaks, glaciers, torrents, waterfalls, natural forest of fir and We walked to Wengen twice - the broad leaf, alpine meadows starred second time from near Trummelbach with flowers and farm chalets from Falls (a spectacular but which the emergence of Heidi herself commercialised waterfall complex would have been no surprise. The south of the campsite); we walked scramble up a steep cliff at the head (almost climbed in places) up a very of the final valley so exhausted me steep cliff, descended into an eerie that I could not make it to the gorge, then ascended through woods Oberhornsee but consoled myself with and meadows with stunning views of Ken Aldred's description of it as just a the waterfalls down the south-west tarn, really, despite its grand sounding side of the Jungfrau to the Wegneralp name. The long walk back across the I was too exhausted for more than Obersteinberg ridge with yet another the walk into Wengen, coffee and the view of the Jungfrau and a man easy path down. We had used this delivering wine by mule to the hill top path on our first trip to Wengen restaurant was much enjoyed.

The YRC Bulletin 50 Summer 1995 Strangely enough the finest views of queues at all hours in the washrooms the grand peaks was achieved with while both sexes chanted to Jesus the least effort. On an excessively hot throughout the evenings. The bars day we took the shady track to the outside the campsite probably village of Isenfluh, stopping profited. frequently to drink from wayside water troughs and drink in the sight Altogether a most enjoyable fortnight across the valley. We inspected the which proved that the Bernese devastation made by a recent Oberland can be rewarding even to avalanche, enjoyed unfamiliar views the nine-mile-a day-and-nothing-over of what had become our valley and 3,000 feet-please type of walker. And descended to meet the Weisse we could have reached the Lutschine near its confluence with the Jungfraujoch by train! Schwartz Lutschine, which flows through Grindelwald. I had originally found the Lutschine rather grim with Traverse of the Lobhorner (2566m) its terrifying force of dead white by Daniel Wood water, but the chill of its banks was as welcome as shade in the hot walk A trip by Martyn Wakeman, Graham back along the valley to the camp. Salmon, Barrie Wood and Daniel Wood Lauterbrunnen the village offers everything the tourist can need and, Graham had twisted his knee on the although pricey, all the meals and Monch a few days earlier, so it was drinks we had were excellent and decided not to risk a trip to a high served very pleasantly. We also hut. Much rifling through the guide enjoyed the bonus of Swiss National book resulted in us trying persuade Day on 1 August with a jolly Dad that despite not having climbed procession (including a monster cow for about ten years a traverse of the bell band), a speech from the Mayor Lobhorner was within his capabilities. (long and in German but seemingly all The following afternoon we set off up about peace and fellowship, and the funicular railway towards Murren finally a magnificent firework display. and then by foot to the Lobhorn hut. I felt like an extra in the last shoot-out This would have been a pleasant three of a Hollywood western as the hour walk ifthe weather had held out. rockets zoomed across the valley reverberating off the cliffs while On arrival at the hut, we found we Murren and Wengen joined in a had it to ourselves, it being the 1st of thousand feet above us. August and the Swiss national day. That evening the mist cleared to The campsite was fine- well­ reveal spectacular views of the Eiger, equipped, crossed by a cool stream Monch and Jungfrau, also our first and peopled by pleasant folk of all glimpse of the Lobhorn. As we sat on nationalities. The atmosphere changed the veranda waiting for the fireworks when coach loads of moral majority to start, the hut warden pointed out American teenagers appeared; the avalanches on the Geissen glacier women spent their days showering, opposite. The following morning the washing their hair, applying anti­ weather had cleared and reinforced wrinkle cream and creating noisy my opinion that hut wardens have an

The YRC Bulletin 51 Summer 1995 unusually pessmustrc approach to climbingwe arrived at the summit and weather forecasting. the last pinnacle.

We arrived at the bottom of the climb Graham and Martyn had taken an at around eight o'clock; the walk in alternative route up the last pinnacle taking over an hour. The Lobhorn is and had arrived first. They found a tin nothing like to be found in Britain; a box hidden under a rock, which strange lump of limestone perched on contained a summit book and pencil. top of a grassy ridge. From the side, it We all signed this and after some resembles the teeth of a saw with four exciting dangles landed back on the distinct teeth. End on it is pear path feeling very pleased with shaped, being very undercut at the ourselves. We had chosen the right bottom. This led to some quiet route on the right day. trepidation on my behalf as it reminded me of the Old Man of Storr on Skye. That trip had not been a Flowers of the Oberland successful one. by Ken Aldred

The start of the climb turned out to be The fingers of his left hand were much easier than it looked, taking a pushed deep into a vertical crack in line up a vague gully. The route was the rock. His left boot had a dubious confirmed by the presence of hold on a loose moss while the toe of numerous bolts. Graham and Martyn his right boot gave more security after set off first leaving Dan and I to do an uncomfortable twist of the ankle. some last minute preparations, i.e., He nervously brought the camera up introduce dad to these new fangled to his eye and then used his forefinger sticht plate thingies! The climbing to focus on the Saxifrage retusa eased considerably after the first pitch which appeared to have a hold as and after a short while found precarious as his own on the rock ourselves on a sharp ridge with face. Satisfied with the focus he superb views to the huge mass of operated the shutter and carefully mountains to the south. The rock was drew breath again. A second generally sound but care had to be photograph from a different taken due to the rubble that seemed to have been desirable but occupy every ledge. without any fancy gadgets on the camera it would have meant From the top of the first pinnacle, we descending before he could use both found a way down to the foot of the hands to wind the film on. Carefully next by a series of loose ledges. The he straightened his left arm and way up from here proved harder than lowered his right foot back onto the it looked; a short steep step protected path nine inches below. Being a by two marginal pegs. The way up botanist on a YRC Alpine meet was was more painful than difficult, the not an easy option. rock in the cracks being razor sharp, making jamming almost impossible. While younger and more active The climbing soon eased and after members on the meet were rushing up some spectacular abseils and some to huts and dragging themselves up exposed, but largely uneventful impossible ridges, some of us had very enjoyable days in the hills and in

TheYRC Bulletin 52 Summer 1995 the valleys searching out and Epilobium fleischeri, the Alpine attempting to some of the Willowherb. Their masses of pink flowers for which the area is famous. flowers contrasted beautifully with the A large group of us visited the Alpine greens of the various conifers. Gardens at Schynige Platte to see a However, a more exciting find was a very wide range of plants, although single Primula acaulis growing near some of the spring flowers were well the lake. This plant is one of the past their best. These gardens are well parents of the many colourful show worth a visit, for while somebody auriculas seen on display in Alpine remarked, not accurately, that all the Flower competitions. Our find in its flowers could be seen on the hillsides, wet environment surrounded by mist such a range couldn't be seen in such hung rocks was more evocative than a relatively small area. Also by anything seen on a show bench. carefully selecting the positions and by judicious changes to the growing medium, the gardeners have been able Bietenliicke via Soustal to allow visitors to see groups of by Mike Godden plants not normally seen together in one locality. An example of this was A superb Alps meet was drawing to a the Rhododendron hirsutum next to close, and Marcia and I planned to R. ferrugineum. The former normally spend our last night in Lauterbrunnen grows on limestone, while the latter on the Thursday using our small tent. being a calafuge prefers acid soils. This meant that our last walking day Having praised the garden it must be would be Wednesday, as on the admitted that the most exciting Thursday the large frame tent would flowers seen that day were the masses have to be taken down and stowed in of Gentiana vema and G. bavirica and the car. two small groups of Soldanella alpina seen bordering snow patches on the We duly caught the funicular to grassy ridges crossed on the way to Griitschalp in the company of Dennis the Faulhom. Many Gentians were Armstrong and duly commenced our seen when we visited Mannlichen. walk north through the woods, The masses of Gentiana acaulis were gradually gaining height until we at the seeding stage but G. lutea and reached the junction of several paths G. purpurea were in flower. Later in at Souslager. We had traversed a the week a single flower of the semi-circle and were now heading smallest genus G. nivalis was found south-west up the Soustal valley. The just below the Schreckhom Hut. The weather was fine and sunny and the gentian, Gentian campestris was weather good. common in the meadows around Wengen. Climbing steadily, we passed a Swiss family who appeared to be making On the wettest day of the meet two their way to Oberberg, the only past Presidents and myself enjoyed a habitation between us and the head of walk to the top of the. valley as far as the valley. They had no packs and the Oberhom See. On the way we were obviously were enjoying their stopped in a hanging valley for lunch walk. As we approached Oberberg we by the side of a babbling stream with met two pack horses and their wide scree beds covered with attendants on their way don the track.

TheYRCBulletin 53 Summer 1995 Presumably they had delivered had let myself in for - gammy leg and supplies to Oberberg, and the all. I finally arrived on the ridge with encounter seemed to answer Marcia following. The effort was questions previously raised en route rewarding as the whole of the Bernese that we were following horse tracks. Oberland came into view, with splendid views of all of the mountain Beyond Oberberg there were good tops in an arc of almost 360 degrees. views back down the valley, and forward to Schilthorn who's aspect There then followed a brief rest and seemed very close. The Lobhorner to discussion, after which I unanimously the north west did not look so decided that Dennis would go first, I intimidating from 2000 metres, and would potter in the middle, and clearly provided good rock climbing Marcia would encourage me from opportunities. At an area called behind. However, there were no Schlachti Matti, we stopped for lunch. problems, our ski sticks being used to the full as additional legs. In a very The track continued forward to the short distance we found the way Chilchfluepass, but our route crossed down. This was far worse than the a stream and headed east and then ridge and I had to resort to having north-east up the mountain side. As five slippery points of contact with we passed a receding snow patch we the ground. were pleased to find a plant called Soldanella Alpina, an example of Very soon we were at the Schilthorn which had been pointed out to us on Hi.itte enjoying refreshment, and from an earlier walk from the Schynige whence we set off back to Grutschalp Platte to the Faulhorn. The terrain via the main path towards Murren, appeared to hold plenty of moisture then to Mittelberg and Winteregg and plenty of plants became more following the railway line. abundant. In particular, there were large tracts of a thistle like plant, The weather was good throughout Gentians of varying shades of blue the day and we all felt we had and further examples of Soldanella. achieved something on our final walking day. As the path became steeper and began to arc to the east, we met the only Low level rock climbing other people we saw on our route, by Graham Salmon enjoying their lunch. They had obviously come down from the ridge, At first sight the steep walls of the presumably traversing our route in Lauterbrunnen Valley would appear reverse. We then started the slow to offer ample scope for rock process of following a steep zig-zag climbing, however, very little appears path across scree and rocks to take us to take' place. This might be due to to the ridge. Dennis led the path and the poor quality of the rock, the was observed finally scrambling on all unrelenting steepness or the proximity fours onto the ridge. The usual shout offar better developed areas nearby. "This is it" was heard, but he did not disappear from view as all good Our first outing turned out to be more Yorkshire Ramblers may be expected of a forest, off the track, stumble. The to do. I then began to wonder what I guide book listed the minor crag of

The YRC Bulletin 54 Summer 1995 Wilderswill, just outside Interlaken, as The Jungfrau (4158m) having about forty routes in the by David Smith grades VI to X (VS to Extreme in the The Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau English grading system). We dominate the skyline from the alp eventually found the crag after a one above Wengen. The massive structure and a half hour slog through the thick of the Jungfrau reaches up from the undergrowth and were not impressed valley floor to its lofty 4158m top, by what we found. Due to the waning exposing complex rock formations enthusiasm with the crag, only one surmounted by two spectacular snow climb was attempted and we soon peaks, the Silberhorn and the retreated from the crag due to the Schneehorn as foreground to its poor quality of both the rock and wonderful ridge and summit. route. A few days later we were again Way back in 1960, John Varney and I tempted by the prospect of rock made an attempt on the celebrated climbing and this time were much Guggi route, a 10 to 12 hour impressed with the situation. We had expedition when conditions are good chosen a large granite slab called and with a knowledge of the route. Gelmerfluh in the Grimselpass, just Our youthful endeavour was no below the Gelmersee. We completed match for these requirements and as one route, the Via Birra. This was there was much ice on the route we equipped with bolts and pitons, prudently returned to the Guggihutte. though we also supplemented these Now 34 years on I had not thought with our own equipment. The route that I would see that exalted summit, consisted of three fifty metre pitches but I had not reckoned with the and the descent was via abseil. friendships built up over the past Unfortunately before we had the seven alpine meets, and John chance to attempt a second route, the Devenport and David Hick very usual afternoon storm arrived and we kindly invited me to join them on an abandoned climbing for the day. attempt.

After being impressed with our To minimalise the enormous cost of previous visit to the Grimselpass, we the rail fare to the Jungfraujoch, we again returned, on this occasion to a caught the 'Good Morning Train' at crag called Oelberg. Two routes were £47 return rather than the £70 normal completed on this occasion, Egeliweg fare. Two hours later at 9.30 am we (V) and Quartz Rossi (VI). Both the were at the joch where we met routes were very well protected, with Harvey and later Alister and Tim bolts appearing always just after the returning to the valley after their hard moves. The afternoon storms success on the Monch . A wide snow failed to materialise and we were piste littered with tourists leads to the forced to depart only due to the Monch joch hutte, but the clear lateness of the day. weather was rapidly being replaced by thick mist. We spent the remainder of The Grimselpass offers a vast amount the day looking through the window of climbing, at all grades and on fine at thick mist and falling snow. Also granite slabs. There is enough scope trying to figure out what the lawn for a complete holiday and only short mower in the doorway could be used visits not doing justice to the area. for!

The YRC Bulletin 55 Summer 1995 It was quite a relief to be awakened at The ascent had taken us 5 hours, just 3.00 am, the hot and stuffy dormitory within the guide book time. I was well was not conducive to sleep. To our satisfied with my performance; I was relief we looked out to see a crescent sure that the five weeks in Scotland moon hanging in a clear sky, it was since Easter had ensured that I was cold and the crisp snow was all that not a burden on my companions. we could have wished for. We made Numerous pictures were taken; John our way down the freshly beaten piste must have an exhibition winner to the Sphinx rock before heading amongst them. The snow conditions south-west across the heavily were deteriorating but we were able crevassed Jungfrau Firn passing round to move quickly down the mountain the rocky north-east spur to an and across the glacier. We were impressive huge bergschrund. George amazed to find parties still arriving at Abrahams refers to this in his 1911 the Rottalsattel preparing to climb 'Swiss Mountain Climbs'; he explains upwards. that it is impassable one day, the next day a large frozen block of snow falls With little difficulty we crossed the from the upper lip to form a bridge. bergschrund again to reach the lowest We were in luck, there was such a point of the trip. It was a hot plod block. across the Jungfrau Firn, but we could see the dangerous crevasses as we A climb up a steep snow slope for a made our non-stop return to the hutte rope length brought us to the and to the excellent hut meal that Rottalsattel. This was followed by a evening. Our hopes were high for a rising traverse, possibly the most successful day on the Monch next exposed section of the climb. Half day! way across however, there was an iron spike some 10 to 15 feet below The Monch (4099m) the track across the snow giving the by John Devenport confidence to proceed. It was quite a After an exhilarating but tiring day on relief to see John pass this point. A the Jungfrau, an ascent of the Monch steep snow and rock arete follows by the South-East .ridge provided a with more of these comforting spikes, short, sharp and highly enjoyable albeit just too far apart for three men route from the Monchjoch Hutte. on a 55 metre rope. From the Monchjoch Hutte, David Looking back we saw the fabulous Smith, David Hick and myself crossed 4000m peaks of last years meet; the the crisply frozen snow slopes to the Weisshorn, Dom, Monte Rosa and foot of the ridge under a brilliant Matterhorn. We also saw Mont moon illuminating the night sky. From Blanc, and nearer to, the King of the here, it was initially a somewhat Oberland, the Finsteraarhorn. It was confusing scramble/fumble up the great to be alive hereon the Jungfrau, broad ridge of broken rocks in the the Queen of the Oberland. Now half light. Although it hadn't been a came the ice pitches, which to our particularly early start we were the delight were covered with about a first party on the ridge, so had all the foot of crisp new snow from the problems of making sense of the previous day, reducing the danger considerably.

TheYRC Bulletin 56 Summer 1995 countless route vanations on what at the Jungfraujoch on the first train was obviously a very popular route! of the day. To minimise possible delays at the bottlenecks on the Very soon, the route became totally narrow ridge, we thought it prudent obvious as the ridge narrowed and to start down, which also meant that steepened, leading upwards towards we could take advantage of the still the shining white summit ridge above firm snow. us catching the first rays of sunlight. We became well practised in putting By the time we reached the lower on and taking off crampons on the parts of the ridge the numbers of middle sections of the ridge as it climbers had increased substantially, varied between delightful warm rock with people of all shapes, sizes, and steepish snow aretes, nationalities and abilities making their way up the tourist route (literally) up Before long, a steep snow slope of the Monch . just over a rope length took us onto the spectacular summit ridge, a very A quick return visit to the Monchjoch beautiful and sharp snow arete, with hut to collect the rest of our gear was pronounced cornices freshly enhanced followed by the descent to the totally by the recent snows, leading for about surreal world of the Jungfraujoch a quarter of a mile to the tiny summit station from where we were whisked at the junction of three prominent back down to Lauterbrunnen. As we ridges.; truly an impressive mountain. had the last view of the Monch from Many photographs were taken to try the train, it seemed barely conceivable record the beauty of the place and the that we had been stood on its airy and marvellous panorama of Oberland spectacular summit only a couple of peaks, including the very long and hours earlier! ! difficult rock ridge leading to the Eiger. By now, we were being joined The1994 YRC Alpine Meet report by other parties from the hut, and we was compiled by John Devenport could also see the first arties arrivin

The YRC Bulletin 57 Summer 1995 Lowstern Sunday again saw walking and caving, with some minor entrances on August 26-28, 1994. . Newby Moss being investigated.

Saturday saw both walking and Meet Organiser, Graham Salmon. caving activities. The planned descent of Grey Wife Hole was Attendance: thwarted by the accumulation of Arthur Salmon (President) shingle in the low entrance crawl. Alister Renton This resulted in the caving team Bruce Bensley splitting into two groups, one going Jon Riley to the allotment to explore Long Kin Ged Campion East and the other stayed at Grey Graham Salmon Wife to clear the blockage. A wall Ian Crowther was built which it was hoped would Richard Sealey hold back the shingle in the future. Richard Josephy Dinner was four-course, followed by David Smith a trip to the New Inn. George Postill

.

. - Denis Barker

The YRC Bulletin 58 Summer 1995 Camping Barn, Hubberholme comprising a senior member and a junior 28th to 30th October 1994 one investigated Crook Gill for rock routes, but it did not look at all inviting, so they moved on to Hawkswick Crags This Dales Meet was organised at a where they enterprisingly completed venue new to the Club, the very well seven routes on good clean limestone. converted and superbly equipped Nearly everyone else joined one of the bunkhouse barn at Grange Farm, several groups who all completed some Hubberholme. It was very comfortable variation of the Cray, Yockenthwaite, and camping was available in an excellent Beckermonds, Halton Gill, Littondale and field nearby, which was nice and flat, and Old Cote Moor circuit. One fit party accepted tent pegs without complaint! extended it to include Amcliffe, Car parking too was quite adequate for Starbotton, Buckden Pike and large the numbers, although some members did quantities (they said) of beer. have to park in a nearby pull-in on the party had had the brilliant idea of leavmg road. a jacket complete with car keys in the pub at Appletreewick on the previous evening, The weekend commenced on the thus enabling them to enjoy Friday night Thursday morning for one member, who minus their sleeping bags and other gear. decided, good chappie that he is, not to Not only was this good for their souls, add to the world's pollution, but to walk but it also enabled them to make a return to the meet from his home in Leeds, visit to the same pub on Saturday during bivouacking in a wood near Thruscross a riverside walk designed for just this reservoir over the Thursday night. He purpose. arrived at Friday teatime to find a fair number of members already in residence Dinner was an enjoyable curry provided at the bunkhouse, enjoying the by the meet leader, plus non-curry for the organiser's scrambled egg supper and unadventurous or of stomach, engaged in what was the weekend's followed by fruit pie and cheese, visits to conversational topic - the recently the local and more verbal diarrhoea about circulated plan for the next 25 years from the desirability of female membership. the specially appointed sub-committee. The possibility of female membership Sunday started thoroughly wet and provided endless scope for dispute, miserable, only encouraging people to set ribaldry and hot air generation over the out on modest valley walks, although it entire weekend, to say nothing of a did pick up as the day wore on and politically correct revision of the Club's actually ended up as a pretty decent day, song composed on the hill during though windy. Saturday. A first class meet in general, at a venue Saturday was a fair day, with occasional that we might well choose to use again in light showers and some hill mist, but future years. w. c. I. C. really quite good, with Upper Wharfedale resplendent in it's autumn coat. A duo

Attending: Arthur Salmon Derek Clayton RoyDenny David Hick (President) Jim Rusher Derek Smithson Bill Todd Alan Brown Tan Crowther AndrewDuxbury JeffHooper David Martindale John Schofield Tony Smythe Frank Wilkinson Alan Kay Robert Crowther Eddie Edwards Raymond Tnce Alister Renton David Smith George Spenceley Alan Clare (guest)

The YRC Bulletin 59 Summer 1995 The 51st Annual Dinner, held at the Randells Hotel, Skipton, on the 19th November 1994

103 members attended this year's years are all becoming a little deaf and dinner, well up on the 91 who were I would suggest that, in future, all there last year. This increase was, no speakers are firmly requested to use doubt, attributable to the Special the microphone, regardless of their General Meeting which preceded the confidence in the carrying power of dinner at which club members were their voice. asked to vote on the proposals submitted by the committee on the The reply to the toast to the subject of lA Forward Plan The quests was given by Jim Curran of the Next 25 Years.' Two of these Alpine Club, who, despite being in proposals were contentious, namely imminent danger of losing his voice that we should modify the name of amused his audience with a string of the club and also that we should open witticisms. eligibility for membership to anyone who is interested in the aims and The evening was rounded off by objects of the club. A report on this the LD. Armstrong Ensemble. The meeting and on the results of the subject of their song was predictable voting will, no doubt, appear and we all enjoyed it.. elsewhere, suffice it to say in this article that it needed firm control by The After Dinner Meet was the President to close the meeting at based on Lowstern and, weatherwise, approximately the correct time, thus it was not much of a day although the allowing club officials to welcome our rain did manage to ease off by about 3 guests in the traditional manner. pm. A caving party was out, engaged upon necessary work above ground The chief guest was John Cleare, and the walkers, or should I say member of the Alpine and Climbers ramblers, went onto Ingleborough and Clubs, and a professional various destinations on . the photographer, film camera-man and Allotments. One party went to visit photo-journalist whose work has been The Three Men of Gragareth which widely published in Britain and meant that the oldest member on the abroad. He gave us an interesting meet had to climb countless stone talk on his climbing trips and walls, each of them in an advanced professional expeditions amongst the state of decrepitude. Everyone got mountains ofthe world, some of them back to Lowstern on time and the day with our member Tony Smythe. The ended with good fellowship and a fine pity was that he was inaudible to supper, thanks to David, Mike, Harry many on the far tables. The dining et al. room must be poor acoustically and those of us who are getting on in P.C. Swindells

The YRC Bulletin 60 Summer1995 Attendance:

G. Adshead Rucksack Club R Harben N. Newman K. Aldred M. Hartland Badford P C R. Newman lD. Armstrong r.c Hawkins P. O'Neill Fell&RockCC J.B.Bensley l Hemingway G.P. Postill AD. Bridge . D.A Hick P. St. l Price B. Brookfield D.Holmes A Renton AC. Brown lA Holmes C.G. Renton C.D. Bush lH. Hooper N. Renton AD. Bull lH. Humphreys Robinson G.D. Bull H. Humphreys l V.F. Rusher V.Bugg R G. Humphreys G.A Salmon President R. Campbell Scottish MC G.R.Ince G.R Salmon G. Campion C.W. Jorgensen RT. Salmon P.RP. Chadwick TW. Josephy lA Schofield RE. Chadwick H. Jacob Wayfarers' Club G.P.A Scovell AR Chapman G. Jones RC. Scovell I.E. Chapman T.A Kay l Short C. Cobb M.J. Kinder F.D. Smith J. Cleare ChiefGuest W. Lacy M. Smith AB. Craven C. Large AG. Smythe R Crowther D. Large G.B. Spenceley W.C.!. Crowther I.G. Laing D.W. Stembridge J. Curran Alpine Club D. Laughton lH. Sterland Al Duxbury r.o. Lee W.P.B. Stonehouse C. Duckworth Gritstone Club W.A Linford P.C. Swindells G. Douglas TR Lofthouse T. Temple T.E. Edwards W.R Lofthouse S. Waterfall A Eamshaw H.A Lomas r.c. Whalley D. Gamble A Lovett r.c White I.F.D. Gilmour D.RH. Mackay F. Wilkinson R Gowing S. Marsden M.F. Wilson F.M. Godden D.M. Martindale R Wilson D.l Handley F. Milner M. Wood R.G. Hague TP. Moss G. Workman Craven P C D. Hall

The YRCBulletin 61 Summer 1995 Christmas Meet Ribblehead December 9-11, 1994

Ribblehead is an isolated moorland Another party traversed Whernside via community well known to Three-Peak the Wolds Way and another group walkers, the caving fraternity and explored sections of the Pennine Way railway buffs with the Ribblehead and Dales Way in the High Birkwith viaduct of 1872 the main attraction to area. Several parties visited the them. Its Station Inn with a long Ingleton waterfalls and a strong caving history of providing shelter and party entered Long Kim West. It is sustenance to travellers was the venue also rumoured that one group visited of the 1994 YRC Christmas Meet. the Antiquarian bookshops ofHawes! Some members having heard the grim weather forecast for the week-end, By early evening the inclement chose to get their exercise on Friday; weather had been forgotten with a this included a fine walk over Simon warming Presidential punch and other Fell and Ingleborough, returning liquid refreshment. Forty seven deviously via Twiselton Scars and the members and their guests sat down to a Hill Inn to Ribblehead, whilst another fine Christmas feast served by pleasant chose the Fairfield Horseshoe enjoying staff in comfortable surroundings, the fine views and early snow on the higher serving of Yorkshire pudding with fells. By evening a high proportion of turkey being a novel experience for members and their guests had arrived, some as was the "loo with a view". The taking up the well-appointed conviviality of the evening continued in accommodation in the Inn, the cottages the bar with the usual topics of and the bunkhouse, and hardier souls in conversation and argument, and the Gritstone Club hut at Gearstones. especially of the forthcoming 1995 Himalayan Expedition. Saturday arrived to see members enjoying a huge Dales breakfast more Sunday dawned to the same dismal than sufficient to combat .the desolate scene, although a repeat performance scene outside - cloud base at road of the gargantuan breakfast of the level, torrential rain: and a gale-force previous day fortified members for wind. Such a must have been another soaking. witnessed many times by the railway navvies from their bleak lodgings on Despite the atrocious weather this the desolate moor. was a meet to savour for the excellent food and accommodation and the Here the ingenuity of YRC valued company of members. Our members was demonstrated. In thanks are due to Harvey who extremely poor weather a Presidential masterminded such a fine occasion for party rallied forth for the Three Peaks us. So far as is known no-one went only to be driven back to the Inn after a home with a German Shepherd dog valiant assault on and by Penyghent. pup as a Christmas present. T.E. Edwards

The YRC Bulletin 62 Summer 1995 Attendance:

The President - Derek Bush Mike Godden Craig Murray Ken Alfred David Handley George Postill David Brook (G) David Hall Ken Raby (G) AlanBrown John Hemingway Alistair Renton Ged Campion David Hick Harry Robinson John Caspston Tim Josephy Arthur Salmon lan Chapman AlanKaye Graham Salmon Albert Chapman Mike Kinder John Schofield Derek Clayton lan Laing Bill Todd Alan Cleare (G) David Laughton Michael Smith Robert Crowther Gerry Lee Derek Smithson lan Crowther Alan Linford David Smith RoyDenney Bill Lofthouse Frank Wilkinson Andrew Duxbury Tim Lofthouse A. Wilkinson (G) Eddy Edwards Harvey Lomas John White lain Gilmour David Martindale

The YRC Bulletin 63 Summer 1995 NORTH WALES MEET good snow conditions on Moe1 20-22 January 1995 Siabod. Chamoix Mountain Centre Sunday came, it did not look much better. Four members tried out Plas y Celyn the excellent climbing wall a few Some presidencies have yards away from the hut enjoying five predominately wet meets and some hours of extremely strenuous activity. predominately dry. The current The presidential party buoyed up with president decided to get all the water their relative success of yesterday set out of the meets system for his two out for Snowdon and were years in his first two meets. It was an magnificently rewarded for their effort appalling Saturday high winds and by clear views and good snow, incessant rain. The much hoped for descending mist blanked off the final snow was there but wet and soggy. few feet to the summit. Undeterred parties set out firmly Tim Josephys meets always believing that it could not get worse. draw a good attendance, the inner Several groups drove down to man is always well catered for, we Beddgelert, each group finding were not to be disappointed, roast different routes through the forest beef was on the menu. The president separating the car park from the on returning from a pastoral visit to mountains to the West. Two such the Nicholson home with two others parties had their sights set on Moel missed out on the soup course Hebog with a nostalgic thought for returning a little late. It was always one time president Brian Nicholson home made soup too. How could whose ashes were scattered there. they start without the president? A Once on the ridge every col serious breach of etiquette. had successively winds of greater An excellent meet despite the intensity. Gaining the summit of weather on Saturday. Tim and Moel Lefn, the only summit reached Richard were the luckiest with perfect by any group that day, was a fight snow conditions on the Glyders on almost to the death. One member of Sunday. It was nice to have three the group delayed fixing his hood worthy prospective members present, found movement quite impossible and hopefully they will not b'e put off by floundered a few feet from the summit the weather falling below standard. awaiting the slightest lull before F.D. Smith. rejoining the group. Attendance: The President - Derek Bush The Llanberis slate quarries Dennis Armstrong Alan Linford were visited by some of the hard Denis Barker Harvey Lomas walkers while a sensible party kept Steve Beresford Andrew Lovett (PM) .Iow and circumvented Lyn Dinas. Ian Crowther David Martindale Another party proudly announced that Eddie Edwards Frank Milner(pM) lain Gilmour Mark Pryor(pM), they had reached the snow line in Mike Godden Alister Renton Llanberis. A lone attempt was made Raymond Harben JimRusher by a prospective member to scale DavidHick Arthur Salmon Snowdon by the Miners track. All in Raymond lnce David Smith all it was not the most successful of TimJosephy Derek-Smithson days. One member arrived early on Richard Josephy Peter Swindells AlanKay Frank Wilkinson the Friday had an excellent day with Mike Kinder

The YRCBulletin 64 Summer 1995 ------l

SCOTTISH WINTER MEET back from Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin by adverse weather. Kinlochleven For something completely February 16-18th 1995 different one member traversed Allt Glean Coire Mhorair and Allt Glean a' Chaolais under the northern corries of Aonach Eagach, repeated by another After the successful meet at pair the next day. Another the bunkhouse the Glen Nevis in member circumnavigated Beinn 1993, it was decided to hold this a'Bheithir from Ballachulish via Glean year's meet at the bunk-house an Fhiodh and Glen Duror returning accommodation at Kinlochleven. In to Ballachulish along the disused anticipation of fine snowy weather, Oban-Ballachulish railtrack, observing new accommodation and good seals at play in Loch Linnhe and company twenty-three members and getting fine views of the snow capped their guests .arrived mostly by hills of Ardgour. Thursday evening.

Friday evening saw the usual Despite the small size of this culinary skills being practised and Highland community, several some members visited the period members had difficulty in finding the piece Arthur Bar, having been unable bunkhouse. was previously to come to terms with the cool described as having a red roof and spartan 'lounge' arrangements at the black walls; in fact it has a black roof bunkhouse. and red walls! These members arriving in the dark were additionally confused by the need to carry their Saturday's forecast was rather belongings and food up a steep track worse than that of Friday though in the dark. Woe betide.anyone who most members were able to enjoy a forgot some essential requirement. spell of dry weather in the morning. For one member this was all too much One Munroist with a new partner and he was last seen heading towards from the previous day reattempted Fersit early on Friday morning. Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin only to be repelled yet again. A party climbed Stob Coire a' Chairn in the Mamores, An indifferent weather another made the steep, snowy ascent forecast confirmed by Friday of Beinn na Caillich, which morning, led members to change their surprisingly is neither a Munro nor a plans for the day. Nevertheless, a Corbett! Other members explored the large party made for Creag Meagaidh Nevis Gorge and the wire bridge at only to be repelled at the window. Steall others the ridges of Bhein at Creag Meagaidh is rapidly becoming a '. Bheithir and one member did some bogey mountain for some YRC langlaufing. The treacherous weather members. Other parties closed in on and snow condition of the week-end Sgurr Eilde Mor and Coire an were graphically confirmed by an Lochain. A party of two was forced

The YRCBulletin 65 Summer 1995 accident on Sgurr Eilde Mor to one of Attendance: our guests.

The President - Derek Bush, By late Saturday afternoon the Ken Aldred, spare accommodation in the bunkhouse had been taken by a noisy lan Crowther, mixed party, which effectively Eddie Edwards, destroyed any prospect of a convivial YRC evening of discussion and Nick Fellows( pleasantries. A retreat to the Arthur lain Gilmour, Bar was re-enacted. Many members commented on the undesirability of Mike Godden, sharing accommodation on Club David Hall, Meets as has been the case on the last two meets. Welcome back Gordon Humpreys, lnbhirfhaolain all is forgiven! Howard Humphryes, Cliff Large, Sleep on Saturday was Harvey Lomas, interrupted by the sound of hail and wind hammering the windows - a Frank Milner(PM), weather pattern repeated by daylight. Most members took the obvious Neil Pomfret, option and headed south, only to find Mark Prior(PM), the sun shining from a cloudless sky in the East. The journey gave time to Alister Renton, lick wounds, metaphorically for most Euan Seaton, and unfortunately, literally for one of us. David Smith, Derek Smithson,

Since returning home Andrew Wilkinson(G), members will have had time to reflect Frank Wilkinson, on the poor weather of the week-end and particularly on the large number Daniel Wood(PM), of accidents necessitating many Barrie Wood. searches which occurred throughout the Highlands. To summarise, although the weather and the accommodation were generally disappointing, this was a worthwhile trip, and one had to admire the ingenuity of members in making the most ofthe conditions.

Eddie Edwards.

The YRC Bulletin 66 Summer 1995