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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Lviv February - March 2014 New Look In Your Pocket gets a makeover Bukovel The best Ukrainian Ski inyourpocket.com resort N°19 Contents ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES Arrival & Getting around 6 Getting to the city, car rentals and transport Eternal symbol of the city of lions The Basics 8 What to see 33 All you’d better know while in Lviv Essential sights, museums, and famous churches Bukovel 10 Where to stay 40 The best Ukrainian ski resort Lviv accommodation options Culture & Events 12 Shopping 44 Ukraine’s cultural capital Where to spend some money Eat 16 Directory 45 The selection of the best restaurants in the city Medical tourism, lifestyle and business connections Cafes 26 Maps & Index Our choice from dozens of cafes around Lviv City centre map 47 Drink & Party 28 City map 48 City’s best bars, pubs & clubs Street index 50 Country map 51 facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 3 Foreword Foreword Lviv is probably the most tourist friendly city in Ukraine! Here hospitality is not only a local tradition, but it is the COVER STORY IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE main business of the whole city. The local authorities and inhabitants seem to go out of their way to make Lviv In Your Pocket is proud to In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones your stay in Lviv unforgettable. give its readers a brand new de- via our responsive mobile platform, found at Publisher Lviv is a city with much to offer, a city of unique old- ESSENTIAL sign. For this first issue we have m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities Neolitas-KIS Ltd. CIT Y GUIDES world charm. It is the scene of an accident where East Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Ukraine, chosen a great photograph of across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable broadsided West, but left only a dent. With its remark- tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 Chorna Kamiyanytsia House on resource which puts our unrivalled content together ably preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bend- [email protected] Rynok Square 4. For a long time with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones. ing streets and hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian Registration No. KB 14928-3900P/ this building has been one of In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city with a European soul. Published 6 times per year. 60,000 copies annualy. the most recognizable symbols city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the Company Office & Accounts of the city, it is also one of the to your current location. Smart filters can be used to city boasts many of the country’s brightest and best mu- PROMOVSKI most important 16th century architectural monuments ensure that only those places which matter to you are Rybna 3/19A, Lviv 79019, Ukraine from the Late Renaissance period. The photo shows the displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, seums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Ukraine’s Mec- tel./fax: (+380) 32 275 06 01, (+380) 67 672 44 97 ca – there are magnificent and inspiring churches and middle of the building façade with the depiction of St as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You Editorial Martin on his horse, cutting off part of his cloak for a can even share your comments with your friends via cathedrals on just about every corner. Although Lvivians Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova have the reputation as church-goers, they haven’t for- Research Yuliya Kanyuka, Olena Patyka beggar. the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s gotten how to party. Pubs, clubs, restaurants and coffee Layout & Design KIS Ltd. web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. houses are plentiful, and it’s usually a local who’s stoking Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket Cover photo depositphotos.com the celebration into the early morning hours. THE NEW IN YOUR POCKET Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. Founded Sales & Circulation Director Andrii Cherniavskyi by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his son Lev in Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Kyiv Natasha Martisova Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, Solomiya Hnativ this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Nazi Germany Odesa Liubov Rogatinska new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, and the Soviet Union. The dubious Hitler-Stalin Pact of Copyright notice we have taken on board hundreds of comments we 1939 granted control of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003-2014. have received over the past few years to come up occupation spurred numerous resistance movements in Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of with a new format for our guides to make them more the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated and this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever controversial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the fall of extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we the Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was finally seized. from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while Lviv continues to be a shining example of independ- Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Ber- nardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). still ensuring that we point your way to all of those ONE OF THE BEST ence, and Ukraine owes much of its contemporary iden- quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in tity to the stream of patriotism which emanates from Maps © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2014 any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope this radical western gem. © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2014 that the changes are met with approval by all our read- Vitayemo u Lvovi! Welcome to Lviv! ers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be ABOUT IYP they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send It’s now 22 years since we published your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email ad- the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius dress [email protected], and follow us on both The UK newspaper The Independent recently published ESTONIA in Lithuania - in which time we have Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (face- a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: in- LATVIA RUSSIA grown to become the largest publisher book.com/inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest yourpocket.com was the third name on that list. This is NORTHERN LITHUANIA of locally produced city guides in Eu- developments at In Your Pocket. what the newspaper had to say about us: IRELAND IRELAND BELARUS rope. We now cover more than 100 cities NETHERLANDS “Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so), POLAND across the continent (with Gudauri, in GERMANY UKRAINE Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC and the number of concise, witty, well- tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities AUSTRIA have been given the In Your Pocket treatment, and HUNGARY written and downright indispensable In SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA all the key content from the print editions has been SLOVENIACROATIA Your Pocket guides published each year ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA is approaching five million. We will be collated on this well-organised and userfriendly web- BULGARIA MONTENEGRO expanding even further this year, with site. It also includes a series of YouTube vignettes.” FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA the publication of a guide to Johannes- GREECE burg: our first outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at SOUTH In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face- AFRICA book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Rynok Square 4 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 5 Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around trip to centre should cost around 30Hr and Lviv’s cabbies before it speeds by. Marshrutkas will definitely get you are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other from A to B faster than other forms of municipal transport, major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies as they are smaller and more manoeuvrable; an important BY PLANE is bustling with busses and mini-busses, most of which feature on Lviv’s narrow roads. Just flag it down as you DANYLO HALYtsKYI LVIV INteRNatioNAL connect to outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best would a taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on AIRpoRT public transport option is tram No. 1, which heads directly the stop, please”) when you’ve had enough. Fares are paid When travellers referred to the Lviv International Airport it to centre. The same tram with a different name, No. 9, takes as you board and currently costs 2Hr. was usually in the context of either a twisted joke or a terrify- passengers in the opposite direction from centre to the ing tale. Time changes; and in April 2012 Lviv got the newly train station.
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