Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Lviv February - March 2014

New Look In Your Pocket gets a makeover

Bukovel The best Ukrainian Ski inyourpocket.com resort N°19 Contents

ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES

Arrival & Getting around 6 Getting to the city, car rentals and transport Eternal symbol of the city of lions The Basics 8 What to see 33 All you’d better know while in Lviv Essential sights, museums, and famous churches Bukovel 10 Where to stay 40 The best Ukrainian ski resort Lviv accommodation options Culture & Events 12 Shopping 44 Ukraine’s cultural capital Where to spend some money Eat 16 Directory 45 The selection of the best restaurants in the city Medical tourism, lifestyle and business connections Cafes 26 Maps & Index Our choice from dozens of cafes around Lviv City centre map 47 Drink & Party 28 City map 48 City’s best bars, pubs & clubs Street index 50 Country map 51

facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 3 Foreword Foreword Lviv is probably the most tourist friendly city in Ukraine! Here hospitality is not only a local tradition, but it is the Cover story In Your Pocket Mobile main business of the whole city. The local authorities and inhabitants seem to go out of their way to make Lviv In Your Pocket is proud to In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones your stay in Lviv unforgettable. give its readers a brand new de- via our responsive mobile platform, found at Publisher Lviv is a city with much to offer, a city of unique old- ESSENTIAL sign. For this first issue we have m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities Neolitas-KIS Ltd. CIT Y GUIDES world charm. It is the scene of an accident where East Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Ukraine, chosen a great photograph of across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable broadsided West, but left only a dent. With its remark- tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 Chorna Kamiyanytsia House on resource which puts our unrivalled content together ably preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bend- [email protected] Rynok Square 4. For a long time with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones. ing streets and hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian Registration No. KB 14928-3900P/ this building has been one of In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city with a European soul. Published 6 times per year. 60,000 copies annualy. the most recognizable symbols city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the Company Office & Accounts of the city, it is also one of the to your current location. Smart filters can be used to city boasts many of the country’s brightest and best mu- PROMOVSKI most important 16th century architectural monuments ensure that only those places which matter to you are Rybna 3/19A, Lviv 79019, Ukraine from the Late Renaissance period. The photo shows the displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, seums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Ukraine’s Mec- tel./fax: (+380) 32 275 06 01, (+380) 67 672 44 97 ca – there are magnificent and inspiring churches and middle of the building façade with the depiction of St as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You Editorial Martin on his horse, cutting off part of his cloak for a can even share your comments with your friends via cathedrals on just about every corner. Although Lvivians Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova have the reputation as church-goers, they haven’t for- Research Yuliya Kanyuka, Olena Patyka beggar. the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s gotten how to party. Pubs, clubs, restaurants and coffee Layout & Design KIS Ltd. web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. houses are plentiful, and it’s usually a local who’s stoking Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket the celebration into the early morning hours. Cover photo depositphotos.com THe new in your pocket Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. Founded Sales & Circulation Director Andrii Cherniavskyi by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his son Lev in Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Kyiv Natasha Martisova Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, Solomiya Hnativ this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Nazi Germany Odesa Liubov Rogatinska new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, and the Soviet Union. The dubious Hitler-Stalin Pact of Copyright notice we have taken on board hundreds of comments we 1939 granted control of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003-2014. have received over the past few years to come up occupation spurred numerous resistance movements in Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of with a new format for our guides to make them more the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated and this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever controversial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the fall of extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we the Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was finally seized. from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while Lviv continues to be a shining example of independ- Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Ber- nardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). still ensuring that we point your way to all of those One of the Best ence, and Ukraine owes much of its contemporary iden- quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in tity to the stream of patriotism which emanates from Maps © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2014 any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope this radical western gem. © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2014 that the changes are met with approval by all our read- Vitayemo u Lvovi! Welcome to Lviv! ers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be About IYP they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send It’s now 22 years since we published your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email ad- the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius dress [email protected], and follow us on both The UK newspaper The Independent recently published ESTONIA in Lithuania - in which time we have Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (face- a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: in- LATVIA RUSSIA grown to become the largest publisher book.com/inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest yourpocket.com was the third name on that list. This is NORTHERN LITHUANIA of locally produced city guides in Eu- developments at In Your Pocket. what the newspaper had to say about us: IRELAND IRELAND BELARUS rope. We now cover more than 100 cities NETHERLANDS “Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so), POLAND across the continent (with Gudauri, in GERMANY UKRAINE Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC and the number of concise, witty, well- tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities AUSTRIA have been given the In Your Pocket treatment, and HUNGARY written and downright indispensable In SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA all the key content from the print editions has been SLOVENIACROATIA Your Pocket guides published each year ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA is approaching five million. We will be collated on this well-organised and userfriendly web- BULGARIA MONTENEGRO expanding even further this year, with site. It also includes a series of YouTube vignettes.” FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA the publication of a guide to Johannes- GREECE burg: our first outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at SOUTH In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face- AFRICA book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Rynok Square

4 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 5 Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around trip to centre should cost around 30Hr and Lviv’s cabbies before it speeds by. Marshrutkas will definitely get you are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other from A to B faster than other forms of municipal transport, major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies as they are smaller and more manoeuvrable; an important By plane is bustling with busses and mini-busses, most of which feature on Lviv’s narrow roads. Just flag it down as you Danylo Halytskyi Lviv International connect to outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best would a taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on Airport public transport option is tram No. 1, which heads directly the stop, please”) when you’ve had enough. Fares are paid When travellers referred to the Lviv International Airport it to centre. The same tram with a different name, No. 9, takes as you board and currently costs 2Hr. was usually in the context of either a twisted joke or a terrify- passengers in the opposite direction from centre to the ing tale. Time changes; and in April 2012 Lviv got the newly train station. Buying train tickets renovated Terminal. All in glass and steel in 14km west of the city centre, Danylo Halytskyi Lviv International became much by bus For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train tick- better and pleasant. Getting around the city’s gateway will et at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the train station. The staff not take you any efforts, signs both in English and Ukrainian Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal does not speak English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/ show the way and nothing here differs from most of fine Eu- All international buses arrive at Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal; Russian. It is a good idea to get know the train number in ropean airports. Tourist information booth is located on the however, some buses, including routes from Warsaw advance and write in on a piece of paper, together with the ground floor, with an information desk, customs, telephones, and Krakow, may make a first stop in centre not far from departure date and time. Don’t bother to learn the Ukrain- lost and found, car rental booths, first aid, 24 hour police ser- Shevchenka prosp. Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus ian alphabet, write down the destination city name in Eng- vices, waiting rooms, ATMs and a currency exchange. There station, ticket offices and schedules are located on the lish as well as your name. You might be asked to provide are cafés in both check-in and departing zones and airline ground floor. Upstairs you’ll find a waiting hall, a small a passport when boarding. Thanks to EURO2012 we finally ticketing booths can also be found in the terminal. hotel and a cafeteria. To find the left-luggage office, head have English almost everywhere. Visit booking.uz.gov.ua/ Lost and found tel. (+380) 32 229 83 19. QLubyns’ka downstairs from the central hall. en/ for train schedule and ticket booking. 168, tel. (+380) 32 229 81 12, www.lwo.aero. W QStryis’ka 109, tel. (+380) 32 294 98 17, www.bus.com. ua, Open 24hrs. Car rental Getting to town Taxis stands outside the main entrance of the aiport. The 70-80Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap Getting to town Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal is located relatively Avis for Ukraine, but the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1,25Hr) far from the city centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest op- QPidstryhacha 6, tel. (+380) 67 230 33 49, lviv@avis. or marshrutka 48 (2Hr). It’s about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 tion; depending on your haggling skills, fares are available com.ua, www.avis.com.ua, Open 07:00 - 22:00. AL minutes by trolleybus. for as little as 50Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trol- leybus No. 5 to Shota Rustaveli Street (I-4) for the meagre Europcar fare of 1,25Hr. Though it may be cramped, marshrutkas QLypyns’koho 36, tel. (+380) 32 294 89 94, lviv@auto- by train No. 7, 37, 57 and 71 shuttle passengers to centre for 2Hr. drive.com.ua, www.europcar.ua, Open 09:00 - 18:00. A Taxi Lviv Holovnyi Train Station Bus No. 18 connects Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Also at Lviv International Airport, tel. 0 32 229 87 87. With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down Train Station. Express trains and suspicious glances, arriving to Lviv’s central rail Hertz Rent a Car Qtel. (+380) 67 67 00 086/(+380) 32 244 60 86, fax station can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy movie. QLubyns’ka 168A, Lviv International Airport, Trustan (+380) 50 94 44 086. Once the nostalgia has worn off, exit the platforms by pro- Public Transport Hotel, tel. (+380) 32 297 00 52, [email protected], www. ceeding down the stairs then follow the exit signs to the hertz.ua, Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. P A L Optymal station’s halls. Almost all Lviv sights and places of interest are within easy Qtel. (+380) 67 607 4 242/(+380) 32 242 8 242. A currency exchange (обмін валют), ticketing booths walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest Sixt rent a car (каса) and schedules are located in the main hall. There is of people. However there is a wide web of trolleybuses QLubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. (+380) Radio Taxi also a floor plan displayed of available services if you hap- (electric buses), trams (streetcars), buses, microbuses and 32 255 61 01, www.sixt.ua, Open 09:00 - 18:00. AL Qtel. (+380) 67 908 10 81, fax (+380) 503 73 00 81. pen to get disoriented. Purchase international tickets from minivans, which sometimes (especially in rush hours) are booth No. 2. (Quiet please, the street dogs huddled in the overcrowded. Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t in- corner are trying to sleep.) hale too deeply but do give up your seat to the elderly and departure date departure time number of the carriage (vagon) Proceed through the corridor past hall No. 2 for a currency mothers with children. exchange and a news stand that sells maps of Lviv. There Trolleybuses and trams are favoured by schoolchildren, the are three left luggage (Камера зберігання) areas/lockers working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the get you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an in- number of the train only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the triguing look into everyday Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can be purchased for 1.50Hr from size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police to/from stations services are also located in the right wing. conductors and the driver on board. You should immedi- Toilets are scattered throughout the building. The easiest ately validate your ticket using one of the many punching seat/berth number gadgets around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into to find are located in the corridors leading to the platforms. passenger’s name QF-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 748 20 68. paying a fine. All tickets are good for one journey only. The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route final price Getting to town Getting from the station to centre is taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specified arriving date and time relatively easy. Taxis are abundant near the main exit. A routes. Many run the same routes as trolleys or trams and gauntlet of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. A use the same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main stops posted on the vehicle’s windshield or side window

6 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 7 City Basics City Basics

Crime and Safety Lviv, Lvov, Lwów Smoking Tourist Information They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilo- You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, metre away. This fact alone will not automatically make Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names. The and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke Tourist information centre you the target of crime. Lviv is, in fact, a rather safe place. city was known as Lwów when the Poles ruled, the just doesn’t seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously Tourist provides information in As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause Austro-Hungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many information English, German, Italian, trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport residents referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many lan- babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout centre Czech, Polish, Ukrain- crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk guages have their own spelling and pronunciation. This the city. But a new more rigorous law on smoking prohibi- ian and Russian. Services: and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract is the case with ‘Lviv’ (Ukrainian) and ‘Lvov’ (Russian). tion takes effect nationwide on December 16, 2012. It sets free city maps, free walking tours, brochures, information unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, As the city immerged to become the centre of Ukrain- a total ban on smoking in restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes about city attractions and current events, accommoda- it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their ian language and culture in the 1990s, the Ukrainian (except open terraces), cultural, medical, educational and tion, transport connections and dining advises. passport and visa with them at all times. version became increasingly common and useful, i.e. sport institutions (including playgrounds and stadiums), QC-3, Rynok pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 254 60 79, tic@city- using ‘Lviv’ while searching the Internet will definitely public transport (including stops), underpasses (subways), adm.lviv.ua, www.touristinfo.lviv.ua, Open 10:00 - result in more hits.. and inside apartment buildings (including stairs and lifts). 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Customs All other premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, Also at Lviv International Airport (Terminal A) (+380) If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of cus- airports, railway terminals) should have designated smok- 67 673 91 94, Mon-Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00; toms duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of Basic data ing areas equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also Lviv Holovnyi Train Station (main hall) (+380) 32 226 wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. sets fines from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law. 20 05, Mon-Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or Lviv Population 761 929 taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to Ukraine Population 45 553 000 make a written declaration in relation to them. Ethnic composition Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, Visas A person can bring in food products free of customs duties Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, and taxes if their total value does not exceed €200. However, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Pol- Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, food products should not total more than two kilogrammes, ish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the and there should not be more than one package of the same Territory 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turk- product. Goods with a total value of less than €1000 may be slightly smaller than Texas). The only mountain chains menistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Moun- days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained your goods is greater than €1000, but less than €10000 they tains in the extreme south. from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before trav- Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andor- will need to be declared on a customs personal declaration Borders Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov elling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with ra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for form and you should pay 10% duty plus 20% VAT. If the value Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Po- prices varying depending on the type and length of visa re- 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas of the goods is greater than €10000, the goods will be sub- land 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) quested. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we ject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. on certain days of the week, so call ahead. can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state requirements for imported cargo. Rivers Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Buh, Danube. Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject Highest point Mount Hoverla 2,061m. the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, medical insurance, and must register their passports with lo- to any international alert and you have documents which Local time All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European must obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an cal police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring immigration card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation doc- countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually For more information, call (+380) 322 37 27 30. uments from the State Service for Control Over the Passage 12:00 in Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. For additional information, call (+380) 32 275 24 63. EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. (J-3, Smolskoho 10, tel. (+380) 322 75 80 81/72 79 91.) All can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must Market values or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not Money and photos. For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. be renewed if lost. The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be list of local prices to give you an idea. Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American Drinking confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,78 $2,25 countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr €0,32 $0,40 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry Snickers bar 6,00Hr5 €0,59 $0,75 at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol con- denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Litre of vodka 50,00Hr5 €4,94 $6,26 call (+380) 44 234 00 40. tent is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 ko- Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr €0,49 $0,62 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr0 €1,33 $1,69 Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European brands can find their favourites at finer shops and estab- peck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem finding currency Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, lishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,12 $0,16 1 litre of petrol (euro 3)5 10,50Hr €1,04 $1,31 Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respect- may enter without a visa; however, the amount of time offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon able-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Lviv Official exchange rates (as of February 1): you are allowed to stay varies from country to country. All can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and Master- €1 – 10.78Hr US$1 – 7.99Hr 5£1 – 13.06Hr others must apply for a visa at the consulate of destination odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrain- Card - American Express is not very popular. There have been Banks exchange rates (as of February 1): country. For more information call the following consu- ian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, €1 – 11.70Hr US$1 – 8.60Hr 5£1 – 14.00Hr lates: Polish (+380) 322 97 08 61, Hungarian (+380) 322 64 point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. 58 22, Slovakian consulate in Kyiv (+380) 44 234 06 06. 8 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 9 Bukovel Located in the Ivano-Frankivs’k region, 30km west of Yarem- dren and “super-beginners”, all levels of intermediate runs che Bukovel is Ukraine’s largest ski resort. With high-speed and several black diamond runs for experts and the idiotic chair lifts, meticulously groomed slopes, snow-making ma- brave. Night skiing is available from 17:00 - 20:00; however, chines and ubiquitous security personnel, it is also Ukraine’s only one upper intermediate slope is currently equipped first European-class resort. Indeed, it’s rather unusual to see with lights. For more information check out the trail map at this degree of organisation in Ukraine. Bukovel has been bukovel.com/en/map. Blue indicates beginner slopes, red carefully planned to make skiing enjoyable and convenient are intermediate and black are advanced. - queues longer than five minutes are rare. This mountain is booming! Over the next few seasons Bukovel plans to have 278km of trails and 35 lifts, which would make Ski rental it one of the 20 largest ski resorts in the world. At the start of Five rental shops are at your service and are located near this season, 16 lifts and 50km of runs were available. Check lower lifts No. 1, 2, 5 and 7. These centres are also equipped out their website for more information including current snow with storage rooms, lockers, showers, bathrooms and ski- conditions. service centres (open 08:45 - 17:00). All skis are relatively new, in excellent condition and rent from 80-260Hr. Snow- board sets go for 80-140Hr. As collateral you must leave Getting there a passport, driver’s license or a deposit of 2500-9000Hr. From Kyiv and Lviv, the trains can take you to Ivano- Snowmobiles are also available for rent. Frankivsk. From Ivano-Frankivs’k you can go by taxi, bus or marshrutka (110km). If you drive (not recommended), it’s best to travel via Ivano-Frankivs’k. Then proceed through the Lift passes towns of Nadvirna and Yaremche, then through the villages of Prices at Bukovel are considerably higher than elsewhere in Mykulychyn, Tatariv and Polyanytsya. Follow the signs to Buko- Ukraine. One lift ride costs 35-40Hr. Passes can be bought vel. Free parking is available. for 3 hours, full-day, several days or the entire season. Full- day passes (good for all lifts) cost 336-396Hr. The popular 5 days ride pass costs 1132Hr and 1524Hr for the holiday Ski slopes season. Almost all of the lifts are chair lifts and a few are Bukovel’s base elevation is nearly 900m above sea level, tows. Lift passes can be purchased in several places around and the highest ski lift rises to 1372m, making it the sec- the base of the mountain. ond highest ski resort in Ukraine. All categories of slope difficulty are available. There is a very long gradual slope More details on www.bukovel.com/en that is perfect for beginners, a couple of short tows for chil-

Bukovel

The best Ukrainian ski resort

facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 11 Events Events Gerdan QC-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 46, Open 12:00 - Opera & Ballet 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun, Admission is free. February Green Sofa Gallery Opera QVirmens’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 75 49, artgreen- [email protected], www.artgreensofa.com, Open 11:00 6 18:00 Natalka Poltavka M. Lysenko. - 18:00. Closed Mon. A 7 18:00 Madame Butterfly G. Puccuni. Iconart 8 18:00 L’elisir d’amore G. Donizetti. The gallery represents modern sacred art. QC-3, Virmen- 9 18:00 Rigoletto G. Verdi. ska 26, tel. (+380) 32 235 52 95, www.iconart.com.ua, 13 18:00 Orpheo ed Euridice Ch. W. Gluck. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 16 12:00 Iolanta P. Tchaikovsky. 14-16 FEBRUARY 2014 the modern art devoted to Taras Shevchenko will start Lviv Art Gallery 20 18:00 Traviatta G. Verdi. 7th National Chocolate Fest in March and finished in May. Q Events around the city. QA-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 39 48, lvivgallery. Chocolate Fest welcomes all sweets’ lovers to immerse ww.cultureandtourism.lviv.ua org, Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00, Admission 22 18:00 Tosca G. Puccuni. themselves into the world of harmony and chocolate art! A Zaporozhian Cossack Beyond 10Hr, children 2Hr. Friday is free for students. 23 18:00 Every year the territory, where Chocolate Festival takes 22-26 MARCH 2014 the Danube S.Hulak-Artemoskiy. Museum of Ideas place, is full of various attractions that can catch the inter- Lviv Fashion Week 27 18:00 Der Zigeunerbaron J. Strauss II. est of anyone who loves chocolate, chocolate artists, pro- Lviv Fashion Week which takes place twice per year is QValova 18A, tel. (+380) 32 295 69 68, fax (+380) 32 ducers, as well as chocolatiers, who want to share their art considered one of the largest fashion events in Eastern Eu- 254 61 55, [email protected], www.idem.org.ua, Ballet with gourmets. This year the Chocolate Fest is appointed rope. Since March 2008, when the first Lviv Fashion Week Open 11:00 - 19:00. Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs 9 12:00 on St. Valentine’s Day. Thus the key event is Valentine’s Fair took place the prominent couturiers Kenzo Takada, Jean- B.Pavlovskyy. Pory roku (Seasons) with incredible variety of chocolates. Also you are invited Paul Gautier, Donald Potar and Vyacheslav Zaytsev visited QC-3, Virmens’ka 23, tel. (+380) 32 235 44 65, Open 14 18:00 One act ballet. to attend the Chocolate City of Lviv, Chocolate Clock, Fash- it. Besides fashion shows the Lviv Fashion Week hosts the 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Admission is free. ion Week style party and unique Chocolate Wedding. The exhibition of the modern art to complement the general 16 18:00 Le Corsaire A. Adam. art workshop Children Chocolate Country will offer the creative atmosphere. Q Shuvar Expo Centre, Khutorivka Zelena Kanapa 21 18:00 The Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky. master classes to younger participants. Q Lviv Palace of 4б, www.lvivfashionweek.com. QC-3, Virmens’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 75 49. Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs 23 12:00 Art, Kopernyka 17. For more information call (+380) 32 235 B. Pavlovsky. 77 88 or visit www.shokolad.lviv.ua. Cinemas 28 18:00 Don Quixote L.Minkus. Art galleries 14 FEBRUARY2014, 22:00 Kinopalace (3D) Solomiya Krushelnytska Opera and Love Fest 2014 - Biggest Love Party in Lviv Art-11 QB-3, Teatral’na 22, tel. (+380) 32 297 50 50/(+380) 32 Ballet Theatre The Gooch Brown Agency gives the incredible gift to QC-3, pl. Rynok 37, tel. (+380) 32 274 03 67, www.art-11. 297 50 05, www.kinopalace.lviv.ua, Open 09:00 - 24:00, QA-3, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 all lovers on St.Valentine’s Day. The best DJs of Lviv and lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Admission is free. Tickets 20-60Hr. 90/(+380) 32 242 11 63, www.opera.lviv.ua, Open Ukraine will perform on the one stage. Q Moloko Night . Closed Mon, Tue, Tickets 40-200 Hr. Club, prosp. Svobody 16-18. Tickets 40-50Hr. Chaos Kinopalace Kopernyk QC-4, Rus’ka 12, tel. (+380) 67 670 03 87, art-xaoc.org.ua, QB-5, Kopernyka 9, tel. (+380) 32 240 37 69. 9-10 MARCH 2014 Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00, Admission is free. Planeta Kino (IMAX/3D) Taras Shevchenko Days in Lviv Theatres Dzyga QStryis’ka 30, Sokilnyky, King Cross Leopolis, tel. 0 800 Around the city centre First Ukrainian Theatre for Children QC-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 12, Open 300 600, Open 10:00 - 02:00. Lviv lasts the long tradition of celebrating the anniver- 10:00 - 22:00, Admission is free. and Youth sary of the undoubtedly the most famous Ukrainian in QA-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 11, tel. (+380) 32 272 68 41, the world. The traditional centre of it is the square around Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform www.nashteatr.lviv.ua, Open . Closed Mon. the monument to Taras Shevchenko. Everybody is in- QC-3, pl. Rynok 40, tel. (+380) 32 297 51 93, Open 10:00 Culture centres vited to listen to his poetry and songs. The contest of - 17:00. Closed Mon, Admission is free. British Council Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre QH-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National University, tel. QA-3, Lesia Kurbasa 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 14/(+380) (+380) 322 39 45 52, [email protected], www. 32 272 48 24, n.kurbas.lviv.ua, Tickets 55-60Hr. britishcouncil.org, Open Mon, Thu 14:30 - 17:30, Tue, Fri Lviv Regional Doll Theatre 12:00 - 15:00, Wed 14:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QC-2, Danyla Halyts’koho pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 58 32. Goethe-Institute Maria Zankovetska National Academic QH-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National University, tel. Ukrainian Drama Theatre (+380) 32 239 47 67, fax (+380) 32 239 46 29, lwiw@slz. QB-2, Lesi Ukrainky 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 83, www.zank- org.ua, www.goethe.de/ins/ua/prj/slz/lwi/ukindex. ovetska.com.ua, Open . Closed Mon, Tickets 20-50Hr. Lviv State Palace Voskresinnya Theatre QI-4, Petrushevycha pl. 2, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 47, QH-2, Henerala Hryhorenka pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 274 13 Open 17:00 - 20:00. 00, Open . Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Tickets 10-30Hr.

12 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 13 Eat Eat

Asian Brewery American Aroma Café Kumpel Tex-Mex BBQ When nearby Potocki Palace, we highly advise you to The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two large A real American restaurant owned and operated by Mike step in this new restaurant, which quickly became popu- vats where Kumpel beer is brewed. It’s definitely worth from Colorado. The Ukrainian staff is all fluent in English and lar among locals. It has nice modern interior and original your time to sample all three varieties (dark, light and red). the service & quality of food is 100% USA standard. The pur- menu with meat dishes from oriental cuisine. There is a We were particularly impressed by the incredibly fresh and pose of Tex Mex BBQ is simply for Ukrainians to experience good choice of five types of breakfasts from 23Hr and lively light. The menu is loaded with steaks, seafood and America. Country music is played throughout the restau- three types of lunches from 35Hr. For particularly hungry beer munchies. For exceptional service, just push the little rant as well as outside. There are two rooms with different we recommend “Tom Yan” Thai soup with veal. You can call button. QD-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 themes, the Texas room & the Mexican room - all simply yet also enjoy a Black Burger - an exclusive in Lviv, made with 80, Open 11:00 - 24:00. PAGBS practically furnished. The menu is not large, but enough cuttlefish ink. Meat lovers will appreciate the wide range of meat dishes on the grill, soups and salads. In short, this is Kumpel new choices to make one ponder. The Mexican choices are tacos, The first thing that struck us was the size and design. It is burritos, frijoles refritos, guacamole, etc. Then there are the a great option where you can just sit and have a meal with friends. The stuff speaks English and a menu in English is a large-high ceiling with dark wooden tables and chairs, Texan choices with the house speciality being barbecued and a Hi-tech design. Then the music hit us. It was some- ribs with Mike’s own secret sauce - for 75Hr a portion. Two available. QB-5, Kopernyka 11, tel. (+380) 96 811 65 93, Open 10:00 - 22:00. PASW thing we never heard before; Polish/Ukrainian music from side dishes come with every order at no extra cost. An aver- the 1920’s. The kitchen is Galician/Polish with some very age complete meal runs around 80-100Hr. QB-6, Jokhara Peking unusual items. We tried the banosh - a maize porridge for Dudayeva 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 17 72, denvermike99@ 50Hr. There are savoury pies and home-made sausages yahoo.com, Open 16:00 - 23:00. PTA6GSW This is about as authentic as it gets here. The décor is tra- ditional Asian and in the back is a grill built into a huge of beef, pork, turkey, and chicken that you can have with The Grill table Japanese style. The cuisine is a mix of Chinese and home-made bread. A complete meal will cost between Steak, Wok, and Roll! The old saying “it seems to melt in Japanese. We enjoyed the “Lotus Flower” veal with sweet 150-250Hr. Some of their delicious home-made items are your mouth” certainly applies here. The menus, in English, pepper in a spicy sauce for 79Hr. For a small party there is available in the souvenir shop downstairs which you must have pictures and graphic illustrations. There is a large a Peking duck at 470Hr a kilo. There is seating for 50 and all visit anyway as it is the entrance to the restaurant. QB-1, Drink menu offering delicious homemade beer. The su- speak a bit of English.QI-4, Hrushevskoho 8, tel. (+380) prosp. Chornovola 2B, tel. (+380) 32 229 51 77, www. shi menu has dishes listed with names of some U.S. cities 32 260 22 07, www.pekin.lviv.ua. Open 17:00 - 23:00. kumpel.biz. Open 11:00 - 00:00.PAEGW and states. Prices range from 55-95 Hr per serving with PASW huge combo platters from 399-880 Hr. The steak menu www.inyourpocket.com has diagrams and explanations of different cuts of meat. Steaks range from 25-35Hr per 100g. We tried the sirloin, Armenian rare. There are also BBQ, Lamb, and mixed dishes on this Krakivska Brama menu. There is also a pizza menu. The fish and poultry Though European, Carpathian (Hutsul) and Ukrainian menu as well as the soup, salad, and side order menus are are all represented on the menu, the delicious authentic divided into East and West; East for Oriental – West for U.S. Armenian is what sets this place apart. We recommend Country style. QB-3, Teatralna 22, Kinopalace Cinema, taking a seat in the basement near the flavourful man- tel. (+380) 32 235 49 91, www.thegrill.com.ua, Open gal (grill), where chefs meticulously roast Lulya kabob, 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGW mutton shashlyk, sea trout and other traditional delica- cies. If you would like to keep the good times rolling after hours, it will set you back 150Hr per hour. Also, it’s SYMBOL key definitely worth keeping this eatery in mind for breakfast; the omelettes and crêpes come with complimentary tea P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted and toast. Banquets can be organised for up to 50, and O Casino H Conference facilities tour groups are welcome to place orders in advance. QB-3, Krakivska 5, tel. (+380) 32 236 72 73, Open 08:00 T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled - 24:00. PAUIGBS F Fitness centre L Guarded parking Taron R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly A short drive outside the centre brings one to this beau- tifully decorated restaurant. The staff speak English and K Restaurant J Old town location the menu is also in English offering Armenian, Georgian, D Sauna C Swimming pool Caucasian, and European dishes. Prices are a bit pricy but well worth it. There are large seating areas both I Fireplace W Wifi smoking and non smoking and 6 outside dining bunga- lows. QKuznevycha 16A, tel. (+380) 32 237-70-35, re- B Outside seating [email protected], taron.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 23:00. PTALEGBSW

14 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 15 Eat Eat

Arsenal Museum Restaurant Panorama restaurant It is like walking into a medieval museum without having to pay. It is an authentically restored hall in the medieval theme. There are knights in shining armour on display along with swords, spears, and other medieval weapons. The decor is matching medieval and the menu is European and Ukrainian. The prices are quite reasonable with a complete meal costing around 150Hr. There are discount for groups as well. There is seating for 100 with live music nightly from 21:00. Sometimes there are guest performers from the Lviv Philharmonic Or- chestra. QD-4, Pidvalna 5, tel. (+380) 67 372 44 55, www. arsenal.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 01:00. PAGSW

Located on the seventh floor of the Opera Hotel, this Atmosphera restaurant offers an unmatched view of the Opera For Ukrainians, atmosphere is everything. Current dining house and Lviv’s historical centre. The large panoramic trends represent a revolt against the drab stand-up Soviet terrace and window-side tables are extremely popular. lunch counters and cafés that were once the only option. Booking ahead will insure a spectacular evening. The Atmosphera offers “creative” Euro cuisine to go with the menu sounds like poetry: “Veal medallions with Demi ultra-chic ambiance. The menu features steaks (pork and glacé cream and grilled vegetables”. The Caesar salad veal) and intriguing dishes such as Mafaldine pasta with has procured a cult following and Italian Minestrone cold smoked salmon, red caviar, cream and parmesan soup with rosemary is unbelievably rich and tasty. If cheese. This venue also houses a business meeting room you’re hopping to spark a new romance or just kick and a popular pub/club. QC-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. start an old love, Panorama is the obvious place to (+380) 32 235 88 99/(+380) 67 313 06 26, www.atmos- make it happen. QA-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) phera.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. 32 225 90 09/(+380) 50 315 12 34, panorama.lviv.ua, ESW Open 07:00 - 01:00. PTALEGBSW Casanova Travel back to Venice in the time of Giacomo Girolamo Casanova who was so famous as a womanizer that his Czech name remains synonymous with the art of seduction. This Garmata Hrushevsky Cinema Jazz is a combination restaurant-strip club. The outside terrace Located at the enthralling Citadel Inn, this elegant res- Have you ever worried that you were not going to finish your Praga (Prague) area (seasonal) appears to be a normal restaurant. Inside, taurant offers an inspiring panorama of Lviv, excellent dinner in time for the movie you wanted to see? Here the The interior of this popular Czech restaurant is decorated one is stuck with the beauty of early Venice. A great eatery European cuisine and a spacious dining hall with unfor- movie screen is in the restaurant. Current films are shown in Art Nouveau and is set-off by reproductions of the in the day time with erotic shows at night beginning at gettable ambiance reminiscent of 19th century Austria. nightly at 19:30 (mostly Ukrainian language films) while you tastefully provocative art of Alphonse Mucha. There is 23:00. The staff was quite friendly and spoke some English. The walls are decorated in various historical themes, and enjoy a wide choice of Ukrainian or European cuisine. Their an English menu and the professional English speaking There is an Italian-European menu with a businessman’s the engrossing decorative rugs display ancient maps of steaks are very good and do not forget to sample their home- staff is at your service to help with your selection. Praga lunch from Monday to Friday for only 45Hr as well as a Lviv. Though this is one of Lviv’s romantic hotspots, it is made liqueurs (nastoyanky)! There is seating for 180 with an knows how to roast (especially pork) and all dishes swim tourist menu for groups making advanced bookings. also ideal for banquets, business meetings and hooking average meal costing around 180Hr. Breakfast is served from in rich flavour. QA-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) QC-3, Stavropihiys’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 74, Open up with friends. The citadel’s cannons are fired on special 09:00-12:00 for just 35Hr and business lunch from 12:00- 32 260 24 42, www.praga.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 24:00. 12:00 - 06:00. PAIGSW occasions, and a children’s room is also available. QH-4, 16:00 for 65Hr. Downstairs is a jazz club about the same size PTAEGSW Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 82 22, www.citadel- as the upstairs room. There is live music nightly from 20:00- Darwin inn.com.ua, Open 07:00 - 24:00. PALGSW 22:00. QC-6, Shevchenka prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 236 04 European The name Darwin was chosen not only as a tribute to the fa- 25, www.hrushevsky.com.ua, www.cinemajazz.com.ua, ther of evolutionary theory but as a symbolic statement an- Gourmet House Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAEGSW Amadeus nouncing the embodiment of the evolution and refinement This restaurant was a rare find for us. The menu is not Near the Latin Cathedral - one of the most beautiful Lviv of Lviv’s restaurant scene. Located on the fifth and sixth floor huge, but the portions certainly are. The dishes come with Misko Pstrug & Petro Bratvanka. Pstrug, Catholic churches and right in the heart of the city, a cov- of a renovated historic structure, the elegant atmosphere is 2 side dishes and are a complete meal in themselves - for Wine & Bread ered summer terrace of this popular restaurant catches the framed by enticing views of surrounding ancient roof tops. just 35-50Hr. We had the beef-steak with potatoes and If you are looking for something different and uncompli- eye immediately. With one of the most eclectic menus of The menu contains one of the most elaborate seafood selec- salad for 50Hr and could barley finish it. There are also cated – this is the place. There is bread and wine as the Galicia, it’s hard to go wrong and the pork steak Amadeus tions found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea bass great pizzas for between 34-41Hr, salads around 40Hr, and name implies. The bread is wood fried in a stone pizza comes highly recommended. Familiarity in service stand- and savoury salmon dishes. There’s also an enticingly unique soups about 30Hr. For a meal for 2 we paid less than half of type of oven. It is served with various toppings beginning ards, a fantastic breakfast/brunch menu and a posh but offering of game such as wild boar under cherry sauce and what we usually pay. The place is warm and cosy seating from 15Hr. There is a good wine list to choose from, the not too over the top atmosphere make this a popular expat wine basted venison. Popular with locals and tourists alike, around 30. I suggest coming in a bit before or after the speciality being young French wine. Another speciality haunt. It is also a favourite place of many politicians, busi- Darwin tends to be busy on the weekends making advanced “lunch rush” as it is quite busy then. The staff is friendly and aside from bread is their baked trout for just 69Hr. There nessmen and diplomats. US ambassador to Ukraine likes vis- booking the way to go. QB-3, Shevs’ka 6, 5th floor, tel. communicates quite well in English. Q B-3, Krakivska 30, are some great salads as well. It is a rustic type of design iting Amadeus while staying in Lviv. QC-4, Katedral’na pl. (+380) 32 294 82 05, Open 12:00 - 24:00. PASW tel. (+380) 32 235 78 02. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAG� and holds 200 with seating outside in good weather.QD- 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 50 22, Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAB SW. 4, I-3, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 49, tel. (+380) 50 373 96 54. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PAGW.

16 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 17 Eat Eat

Nostalgia about everyone. Creamy soups, crêpes and salmon dishes are This is actually a proper restaurant located on a side street particularly appealing. The breakfast buffet is popular with from the market square. (Ploshcha Rynok).There is a com- hotel guests, so arrive early if you’re hoping to get a good seat. fortable atmosphere this candle lit two room restaurant. QG-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 238 61 16, www.lioncastle- The interior is as the name suggests nostalgic and deemed hotel.com/en. Open 08:00 - 22:00. PALG reminiscent of France in the early 1900’ss. The staff is friendly and try to communicate in English There is an English menu Trapezna which lists many Ukrainian and international dishes or let’s The meaning of Trapenza is “monks eating room”. Located say their own variation of Dutch, French, German, and in the cellar of a former monastery, this is really traditional Spanish dishes; Liver Berlin style, Chicken Curry Madrid way, Ukrainian food at its best with low prices. The menu is Salmon French style, and Jerusalem carp, just to name a few. in a metal book and in English. Drinks are served in old Exotic appetisers include tongue, brain, and Dutch Fondue. wooden cups and sometimes one hears the Ghost walk- There is also a very busy banquet room. Prices are very rea- ing about late at night! There is also an adjoining art gal- sonable and it is a great place to visit.QC-4, Serbska 6, tel. lery and outside seating as well. A real experience!QI-3, (+380) 32 272 77 50. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW Valova 18A, tel. (+380) 32 295 69 68, fax (+380) 32 254 61 55, [email protected], www.idem.org.ua. Open Persha Kliasa (First Class) 11:00 - 23:00. T6GBW A great eatery right in the centre on the main square. We sat out on the terrace enjoying the sights. Inside is beauti- Try Mitly (Three Brooms) fully designed with wood and lots of space. The cuisine is Don’t be surprised if Harry Potter or one of his compan- International/Ukrainian. All in English with many yummy ions is standing in the doorway. The theme is Harry Potter choices. A specialty is the fillet mignon for just 37Hr per through and through. It is basically a family restaurant with 100g. An average meal will run you about 200-250Hr costumes and magic wands given to children to use dur- There is also a great Business Lunch from 12:00-16:00 ing their stay. There are copies of some of the props used in which costs us 61Hr with a drink. We especially enjoyed the films, and there is memorabilia scattered throughout. the fresh mixed salad which was so simple, yet so tasty. There are lessons given in wizardry and many HP fans visit QC-3, Ploscha Rynok 39, tel. (+380) 32 235 71 75, www. from abroad. The food is prepared by an elf and the dishes lviv.virtual.ua. Open 10:00 - 24:00. all have names related to wizardry and sorcery (soon in English). An average meal goes for about 100-150Hr. Seat- Shakespeare ing for 30+.QI-2, Yavors’koho 1, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 55/ (+380) 67 374 50 04. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Mon Chef Shakespeare fans – this is for you! A restaurant dedicated This is a great “meat restaurant” located within the Astoria to the Bard. Located near the airport, with lovely gardens, and outdoor dining bungalows, it is an experience worth Velyka Tarilka (The Big Plate) Fast food & Sandwiches Hotel with its own separate entrance. But if you look at the As the name implies, there are large portions served here. prices, they are not what one would expect from a Hotel having. The staff is dressed in kilts and the menu caters Acropolis to many nationalities. There are 2 large dining rooms with However, one may have a choice of two or even three dif- This small gem was a great find. It is located on a beautiful restaurant. They are actually quite affordable. We had the ferent sizes on every dish which helps when travelling on a Filet Mignon steak from the Josper grill for just 270Hr. A smoking and non-smoking areas. They even sell copies square in the centre of the old city. There are only 4 tables of Shakespeare’s greatest works! QLyubins’ka 144, tel. budget. The menu is European/Ukrainian with lots of yummy so we had to come back and take a chance at a later time. complete meal here will cost about 350Hr. It is quaint and pizzas on offer. There is a wide variety of beer available and comfortable seating 50 and the service is superb.QA-3, (+380) 32 295 52 95, fax (+380) 32 295 48 68, info@shek- We were glad we did! The menu is limited, but it’s real tasty snacks to go with your beer. We found the beef steak Horodots’ka 15, tel. (+380) 32 242 27 07, www.monchef. spir.lviv.ua, www.shekspir.lviv.ua. Open 08:00 - 24:00. “Greek Food” at very reasonable prices. We were told that PA6UILEGBSW marinated in herbs a great choice; The price- 70hr for the XL com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAULW when the weather warms up, they put many tables out- and 85Hr for the XXL. They have great pancakes and deserts side and then they add moussaka and other items to the Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya Halychyny Terazza too. The business lunch is served from 12:00-16:00 and cost menu. A great place to eat or just have a drink and spend (The Most Expensive Galician Restaurant) We never saw Lviv like this - A 360 panorama view of the just 35Hr - without drinks. There are several options to choose time with your friends.QС-3, Rynok pl. 44, tel. (+380) 67 Q At first we thought that the word “Expensive” was a mistrans- city. The restaurant is on the top floor of St.Feder Hotel from and the portions are big.. C-4, I-3, Valova 13, tel. 463 09 06. Open 11:00 - 22:00. GBW lation, but then we opened the menu…Don’t be frightened with floor to ceiling windows. The decor is white, bright, (+380) 32 235 63 17, www.big-plate.com.ua. Open 24hrs. by the prices, if you show interest in the restaurant’s Masonic and modern with a formal yet comfortable atmosphere. Bagel café theme, your waiter is likely to give you a “10 times cheaper” The cuisine is Italian/European with an average meal run- Vintage A truly great experience! It brought back memories of our discount card. Besides, we are convinced that the food and ning around 175Hr.QB-2, I-2, Zvenyhorodska pl. 3, tel. Though selective, the menu holds nothing back. Start with father taking us to a deli in the Fairfax district of Los Ange- fascinating ambiance are well worth the insane prices. As (+380) 32 297 00 00, fax (+380) 32 297 00 15, reserva- the spicy Thai veal salad or Mediterranean salad with salm- les when we were kids. This little café is about a 10 minute we entered, an attendant dressed us in the Masonic apron, [email protected], www.stfeder.com/en/restau- on and red caviar, drown you taste buds in the seafood gou- walk from the centre and well worth the trek. All bagels and then introduced this fascinating cult. It was quite reveal- rant-terrazza. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAEGW lash soup or pot-au-feu, then savour the Carpathian trout and pastries are made on premises and they can custom ing how influential the Masons have been in shaping world in an olive and caper sauce or slurp down some pasta with make a sandwich with Salmon, Chicken, Beef, and more history. Benjamin Franklin, George Washington, Abraham The Lion’s Castle your choice of the chef’s signature sauces. Like the hotel, the for just 18-28Hr. They serve fantastic coffee too. All speak Lincoln, Peter the Great and local heroes Mykhailo Hrushevsky Located in the basement of the Lion’s Castle Hotel, the rea- restaurant is quaint but classy and the hidden wine cellar fluent English and the atmosphere is warm and cosy. It and Ivan Franko were all Masons. The centrepiece is an an- sonable prices and large portions justify the 20 minute walk is an absolute gem. With seating for up to eight, it’s a per- is definitely worth the visit!QI-4, Hrushevskoho 13, tel. tique piano on which a pianist performs Friday - Sunday from from old town. The juicy Lion’s Castle pork special, for exam- fect place to unwind and sample a select vintage from the (+380) 67 224 43 00/(+380) 93 748 08 19. Open 09:00 - Q 20:00 - 23:00.QC-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 50 430 87 83. ple, is a whopping 450 grams and will set you back a mere ten hotel’s collection. C-4, Staroyevreys’ka 25-27, Vintage 20:00. AGW Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. PAGW bucks. There’s enough variety on the menu to appeal to just Hotel, tel. (+380) 32 235 68 34, www.vintagehotel.com. ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. AGBW

18 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 19 Eat Eat Hit-Café tion to flavour, aroma and presentation is tremendous; go Hit offers up familiar western favourites including pizza, Georgian with the understanding that quality takes time, and that spaghetti and club sandwiches; tempting grill and meat all available Galician and European dishes are well worth dishes like steaks and kebobs; and a splattering of traditional Bagrationi the wait. The menu’s highlights include one of the city’s Ukrainian treats such as borsch and pickled herring under a This is Georgian food at its finest! Main dishes run between best seafood selections, Hungarian style veal goulash and coat. It’s possible to satisfy your hunger for less than 30Hr un- 45-95Hr. We tried their famous Mtsvadi (shish-kebab) for the Lviv pie, which is so sophisticated it must be ordered der an atmosphere a step up from the standard fast food joint. around 30Hr and it was well worth it. There is Ukrainian 24hrs in advance. Private celebrations can be booked for Also at F-4, Kyivs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 237 77 67.QA-4, Kryva cuisine also along with a great wine selection featuring up to 40.QD-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 272 59 73. Open Lypa prov. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 67 88. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Italian, French, Austrian, and Spanish labels. The design 11:00 - 23:00. PAUIEGS Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PTA6B and atmosphere is definitely Georgian and there is seat- ing for over 100. There is also a terrace and café for good Sidlo Kartopliana Khata weather. Live music is performed nightly from 19:00-23:00. There is a saddle out front and upon entering one is taken This is a cowboy, Indian and Che Guevara themed fast food For more lively entertainment - the Anturazh Club is right in awe at the lovely wood décor. So we naturally thought joint where patrons can order a baked potato served in next door.Qprosp. Chornovola 59, tel. (+380) 32 240 88 it was a country western place. We were wrong. The cui- small bowl and topped with scrumptious titbits. Burritos, 88/(+380) 67 674 08 88, [email protected], www. sine is Galician, which is the former name of this region. “spicy” wings, barbeque ribs and traditional salads are also bagrationi.lviv.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW Everything is based on traditional recipes and is cooked on hand. A popular lunch spot, this is a nice choice if you’re on a wood burning stove. That’s why all the wood is there. in a rush.QD-5, Lychakivs’ka 4-6, tel. (+380) 32 242 05 Staryi Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) There are many dishes one would not find every day. We 26. Open 09:00 - 22:00. PAGS Georgians are known throughout Eastern Europe as had the “Dish of something finger licking good” which was masters of the grill, and the chefs at Staryi Tiflis uphold rabbit, turkey, and veal sausage with corn, baked pudding Panda this stereotype. Chicken wings, lamb, pork, veggies and and mushroom topping. It was a great “eat” and cost just We did not see any Pandas, but found a great Chinese takea- even beef tongue are all roasted to perfection over open 237Hr for 2. A complete average meal here will run around way! They call it “Fast Asian Food” The main portions are such flames. Whenever pouring snifters of cognac, a friend of 200-250Hr. There is also a business lunch from 12:00-16:00 items as fried veggies, duck, pork, beef, seafood, and more ours from Tbilisi likes to joke, “It’s always useful to keep a for just 35Hr - a great lunch experience. QC-4, Brativ Ro- Traditional Georgian Restaurant with prices ranging from 15-60Hr a portion. There are also bottle of French or Armenian cognac around the house hatyntsiv 4, tel. (+380) 93 750 37 37, www.sidlo.com.ua. 59, Chornovola ave. soups, salads, satays, and spring rolls from 12-40Hr. Delivery is - you need something to clean the glasses out before Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW free within the city centre. Outside the centre requires a 100Hr pouring the good Georgian stuff.” Indeed, Georgians are Phone: +380 32 240 88 88 minimum per order.QD-6, I-4, K.Levytskoho 8, tel. (+380) extremely proud of their cognac and aromatic wines, Mobile: +380 67 674 08 88 032 253 33 00/(+380) 97 253 33 00, www.pandawokibox. and Staryi Tiflis has some of the better brands on hand. Italian VS com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. They also keep some French and Armenian behind the Bianco Rosso bar in case you notice some spots on your glass.QJ-3, Pretty much the real thing! And right in the Centre! The Steak House Pekarska 28, tel. (+380) 32 276 61 11. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Italian chef, Angelo even brought his own pasta machine Steak house is a nice twist on the low budget lunch/dinner PAVGSW with him! The décor is something like ‘Art Deco” and the counter in that it offers a freshly grilled piece of carcass background music is actually enjoyable and not some- to go with all the usual a la carte salads and side dishes. Halytska (Galician) thing one has to shout over to be heard. The menu comes There’s no English available so allow us to introduce some in English and serves a wide variety of Italian and European vocabulary that will help with your order: for a beef steak Kryjivka cuisine and is not that expensive. The staff was very friend- say “steak z yalovichini”, for a pork steak “steak z svinini” When the uniformed guard opens the peep-hole to this ly and spoke English. Breakfast is from 07:00-11:30.QB-4, and for grilled chicken “steak z kuryatini”. Their specialty, theme café/restaurant and says “Slava Ukraini” (Glory to Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) 32 235 54 44. Open the “lambada”, is a massive, spicy pork steak garnished Ukraine), that’s your cue to respond “Heroyam slava” (Glory 07:00 - 23:00. PTA6GBSW with crisp lettuce, pineapple, sweet peppers and corn. to its heroes). This was the greeting used by soldiers of the Q J-4, Pekars’ka 31, tel. (+380) 32 276 67 06. Open 11:00 Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) as they waged guerrilla Del Pesto Dating Restaurant S - 23:00. war against the Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 1943- This restaurant is worth visiting. The décor is “comfortable” 49. It’s also your ticket past the guard. Once inside, you’ll and one feels immediately at home. The staff is friendly French find a fascinating and jovial bunker complete with gre- and English speaking and the cuisine is European and nades, rifles and other military antiques. Just as the UPA Italian. They also sell special homemade liquor which is Eurohotel Restaurant was immensely popular in Lviv, so is this eatery dedicated quite good. There are 4 rooms and there is plenty of room From the traditional leafy French salad with salmon and to the memory of their sacrifice. Tables can be scarce, so for parties and banquets. Special dating menu (you order crayfish, to club sandwiches and the chef’s special Richelieu book ahead. Traditional Ukrainian dishes and spirits add to for two persons while pay for one only) is served from soup, everything on the menu fits right in. Indeed, this is what is certain to be a lasting memory of your visit to Lviv. 18:00-23:00.QH-3, T. Kostyushka 6, tel. (+380) 97 461 98 a classy upgrade from the hotel’s previous restaurant. The QC-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 32 254 61 18/(+380) 95 87/(+380) 32 255 00 80, delpesto.lviv.ua. Open 09:00 - veal filet in truffle sauce, the certified Angus T-bone and 260 45 46, fax (+380) 322 54 61 18, www.kryjivka.com. 23:00. PAGSW salmon penne are tempting, but the grilled lamb plate for ua. Open 24hrs. AW four is where it’s at. With tiramisu, strudel and cheesecake Felicita all on the menu, they didn’t make your dessert selection Restoratsiaya na Valoviy Located in the George Hotel right in the centre. It has a an easy one. The affordable breakfast buffet starts up early, You can always tell how refined a restaurant is by the comfortable Italian type decor and the staff is quick and the VIP room seats eight and banquets can be booked for number of forks set near the plate: this place had four. friendly, all fluent in English. The cuisine is authentic Italian Q up to 50. J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, Eurohotel, tel. (+380) 32 The dining area is decorated with classic prints and excit- with a real stone pizza oven. There is a good variety of PALG 275 51 73. Open 11:00 - 23:00. ing original paintings by local artists. The chef’s dedica- pasta and pizza dishes with prices ranging from 60-110Hr.

20 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 21 Eat Eat

There is Wi-Fi with seating for 60.QB-5, I-3, Mickewicza make this a dining hotspot. Here are a few things to know outside for 45 when the weather permits. There is a great pl. 1, George Hotel, tel. (+380) 67 361 28 28, felichita@ before you go. 1. There are no prices listed on the menu as variety of pizzas ranging from 45-65Hr or so. There are also grandpersona.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. JW you are expected to barter. Being a foreigner, they’re likely salads, pasta, and lasagnas. One can get a complete meal to just quote you a reasonable price. 2. For the right price here for 150Hr or less. The staff communicated well (as did Florentsia (Florence) you can secretly arrange to have your waiter smuggle in the menu) and all were very friendly.QC-3, Virmenska A small quaint Italian restaurant seating 20 in the “old city”. some pork dishes. How kosher is this place? 3. They offer 31, tel. (+380) 097 216 07 07, www.bellaciao.virtual.ua. The décor is classic Italian as is the cuisine. A house speciality a fantastic selection of salads, vegetable dishes, Galician Open 10:00 - 23:00. is their ‘pasta with chicken and white mushrooms. There is desserts and traditional Jewish breads. 4. For a taste of a great list of Italian wines and a business lunch weekdays Lviv you’ll never forget, try the homemade vodka.QC-4, Celentano from 12:00-16:00 for 30, 40, and 50Hr.QD-4, I-3, Brativ Staroyevreis’ka 48, near the Synagogue, tel. (+380) 32 This established pizzeria chain champions democracy by Rohatyntsiv, 43/12, tel. (+380) 32 235 43 76/(+380) 68 505 236 75 53. Open 11:00 - 01:00. A granting patrons the choice of their own favourite top- 71 31, [email protected], www.florence.lviv.in. Open pings from a wide range of possibilities. Various salads, 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. W crêpes with different fillings and pasta dishes are also Mediterranean on offer. Do the roof of your mouth a favour and let the La Piazza Lavie extremely hot pizza cool before consumption. Friendly La Piazza is located on the top floor of the luxurious fash- This is a great restaurant right in the heart of the old city service and speedy delivery have become this in-and- ion gallery Opera Passage. This pizza&pasta bar has the and adjacent to the Rudolfo Hotel. They have a very mod- out pizzeria’s trademarks.QC-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. unique concept and authentic Italian cuisine. It offers 17 erately priced Mediterranean menu and a great wine list. (+380) 32 235 56 84, www.pizza-celentano.com. Open types of original pizza for all tastes, 16 kinds of pasta dish- We had the grilled veal with boiled veggies for just 70Hr. 10:00 - 23:00 Also at Kopernika 9; prosp. Svobody 24; es, original Italian antipasti, delicious desserts, opportunity There are also some very tasty, exotic salads. An aver- Slovatskoho 16; Volodymyra Velykoho 123; Vyhovskoho to watch the process of cooking. Our choice was soup of age meal will run you no more that 150-200Hr. Thursday 47a; Horodotska 141. PGBS the day (it changes each day) for 15Hr. But the most attrac- through Sunday there is live music.QB-3, I-2, Virmenska tive thing there is its atmosphere. It is friendly and cosy 4, tel. (+380) 32 236 80 51, www.lavie-lviv.com. Open New York Street Pizza and just what you need for either family/friends lunch or 24hrs. €€. PAGW When I asked for onions on my pizza the server looked business meeting. During a lunch time (11:00 - 14:00) from at me as if I had a second head growing out of my ear. Monday until Friday take a chance to get a fat and deli- Nobilis “Onions on pizza? Don’t be ridiculous.” I rescanned the cious lunch for only 33Hr. For this unbelievable price you’ll This first class restaurant offers a gourmet blend of tantaliz- toppings list to make sure I wasn’t the butt of a practical be offered pasta, soup or salad and drink. Among other ing Mediterranean cuisine and signature local dishes, which joke. Indeed…no onions. You can top your pie with imita- special offers there is coffee and desert for 25Hr during are certain to delight your taste sensations and surpass your tion crab sticks and corn, but no onions. I settled for sa- the week days from 14:00 until 16:00. For cocktail lovers expectations. An average meal will run about 200-250Hr. lami and mushrooms and it turned out to be quite tasty. La Piazza offers a 30% discount every night (21:00 - 23:30). The menu is in English and the staff is warm and friendly Though “Ukrainian Street Pizza” would be a more fitting QA-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 14. Open and speak English well. The restaurant also offers romantic name, this is a nice pick for those in a hurry and short of 11:00 - 24:00. PGSW private dinners, and bookings can be made for conferences, cash.QA-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 27 banquets, and weddings. Restaurant hours: 11:00 – 23:00. 57, www.pizza-nys.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00 Also at LH Bar & Restaurant Breakfast hours: Monday-Friday: 07:00 - 10:30, Saturday- Tershakivtsiv 5; Volodymyra Velykoho 5; Chervonoyi Italian cuisine has become popular the world over and is Sunday 08:00 - 11:30.QI-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 Kalyny 31; Patona 37; Stefanyka 4; Henerala Chuprynky known for its elegance and richness of flavour. In the new 84 14/(+380) 32 295 84 16, www.nobilis-hotel.com.ua. 36; Sviatoho Teodora 2. PGBS LH Bar & Restaurant these qualities can truly be enjoyed. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PALEGSW The menu is quite large and offers pasta with such exqui- Ukrainian site taste that you know it is the “Real thing”. The main Mexican dishes include tasty veal, beef, chicken, pork, and fresh Dim Legend fish. And do not leave without having a traditional Italian The Mexican This restaurant-café has become something of a legend dessert. Everything is prepared under the supervision of a This is basically an extension of “The Grill” and may be en- in Lviv. It is located on 7 small floors with a real ‘Trabi’ sit- real Italian chef. The restaurant is perfect for any occasion; tered through it or from the street. The design is simple ting on the roof top terrace with a great view of old Lviv. business lunch, a romantic evening, or dining out with the giving the atmosphere if an authentic, dimly lit Mexican Each floor has a different theme telling the story of liviv. family. The friendly staff, great food, respectable wine, soft Cantina. There is no English menu and communication One room has the clocks, another depicting the lions of music, and comfortable interior all combine to create a was a bit difficult. There are burritos from 35Hr -55Hr (no Lviv, another tunnels, etc. No visit to Lviv is complete with- wonderful sense of harmony.QI-4, Pl. Petrushevycha 1, bean burritos though). Fajitas go for 55Hr and nachos go out stopping here!QD-4, Staroyevreis’ka 48, tel. (+380) tel. (+380) 32 295 60 39, fax (+380) 32 260 23 93, ho- for 33Hr-55Hr. There are also soups and salads ranging 67 670 38 28, www.lokal.lviv.ua. Open 11:00 - 02:00. [email protected], www.lhhotel.com.ua. Open 10:00 - from 20Hr-50Hr.QB-2, H-2, Tetralna 22, tel. (+380) 322 PAGW 23:00. PALSW 23 54 99/(+380) 322 23 64 09, www.themexican.com. ua. Open 13:00 - 23:00. PAGW Garbuz (Pumpkin) No time to wait for a meal? The Garbuz is a lovely place to Jewish Pizza get ready made food. It is very delicious, of good quality, Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu and inexpensive. One cannot miss it; the front door is very This Jewish restaurant is located downhill from the ruins Bella Ciao unusual, like opening a giant pumpkin. This restaurant has of the Golden Rose Synagogue, the oldest synagogue This is really a great pizza parlour right in the centre. They its own original style; with massive oak tables, metal made in Ukraine. The outdoor seating is exceptional and helps have a real stone pizza oven – so it is pretty much the real into whimsical lamps, and the royal chairs. It is actually an thing! The design is Italianish with seating inside for 60 and 22 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 23 Eat Eat

Salo Restaurant & Museum Salo is a bit like a museum, but more like a contemporary art space. In the restaurant area you’ll be offered a Salo Art Menu which contains some uniquely sculptured forms of salo. (FYI-Salo is pure pig fat, a Ukrainian delicacy) We liked the chocolate covered salo! There is live music, DJ or something going on every Saturday. One can also order from the menus of neighbouring Bianco Rosso and Yappi restaurants.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 36, www.artsalo.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PA6ESW

Seven Piggies indescribable design. We strongly suggest viewing the poultry, fish, and vegetables. The Ukrainian ribs with hon- The classic Ukrainian khata (hut) ambiance and attentive web site. At lunch time, the tempo moves quickly. In the ey sauce was delicious! There is an English menu, though it service make this a fine choice for those looking to sample evening it is another story. The Pumpkin is transformed takes some effort to understand the “Ukrainian-English”. It the local cuisine. The only drawbacks are its locale, just far into a cosy pub with fresh draft beer and a lots of TV moni- was a lot of fun actually as the server was very friendly. We enough from old town to make you think twice, and the tors for sports fans.QI-3, Ivana Franka 15, tel. (+380) 32 forgot something at our table, and the server went out of prices are slightly above average. Many of the main cours- 225 51 51, www.garbuz.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat his way to find someone who could speak English and had es - king salmon steak, “Cossack” beefsteak, pork ribs - are 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAEGW them call the number on my business card. This doesn’t priced per 100 grams. Traditional soups, salads and horilka happen that often in Ukraine. The house speciality is called (vodka) are plentiful and the fresh squeezed juices and Hors «medovukha», an alcoholic drink steeped in natural honey chocolate cake are worth adding to the order. Banquets Hors was the Slavic god of the winter sun whom ancient and herbs, which has been brewed the same way since can be booked for up to 25, and the banquet menu is Lvivian pagans associated with healing and survival. The the 18th century. It was the traditional brew drunk by the loaded with delights such as stuffed sturgeon, baked pig- stairs leading to the restaurant have been described Cossacks. Medivnia has very reasonable prices and is a let and specialty duck, goose and turkey dishes. Menus International Varenyky Fund as “fifteen stairs to the 15th century”. You are not enter- place we would love to return to.QB-3, Krakivska 17, tel. in English are available upon request.QG-4, Stepana 6, Furmans'ka street (Opera House district) ing a basement, this is actually a renovated section of (+380) 32 272 91 41. Open 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB Bandery 9, tel. (+380) 32 297 55 58, www.7piggies.com. OPEN: 11.00 a.m. - 11.00 p.m. an ancient catacomb and the rocks that line the base of (+380) 32-225-58-86 ua/7p_eng/7pEngHalls_index_page.html. Open 10:00 the arched walls were set in the 15th century. The unique Panska Charka - 23:00. PAIEGS mysterious atmosphere is definitely worth checking out, A lovely Ukrainian restaurant with inside and outside seat- but don’t get too distracted as the menu offers its own ing. The specialty is ‘home made’ liquors (nastoyanka) Vulyk (Honey Restaurant) intrigue with items like salmon with spinach, steaks and made from honey, fruit, herbs and even horse radish. The This is a unique, inexpensive Ukrainian restaurant not dishes dedicated to the Slavic gods. Live music is per- staff was extremely friendly and the English menu has tra- far from the centre. As the name implies, many dishes formed Thursday-Sunday.QC-4, Staroyevreis’ka 5, tel. ditional Ukrainian food, one can even order a boars leg for are cooked with honey like the chicken crumble for just (+380) 32 235 41 57, www.hors.com.ua. Open 10:00 - that special large gathering of friends. From 20:00 to 22:00 25Hr. There are also many barbecued dishes. We had the 23:00. €€. PAGW on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights there is live music. yummy river trout stuffed with mushrooms for just 60Hr. Liqueurs can be bought as souvenirs.QI-3, Vynnychenka A complete meal can cost you no more than 150Hr. There International Varenyky Fund “Archive” 3, tel. (+380) 97 205 48 41/(+380) 32 235 53 91. Open is seating for 35 with live music on the weekends. The staff This popular place is located no more than 20 steps from 10:00 - 23:00. PAEGBSW will make you feel at home and they speak English well. the Opera House and is an ideal spot for everyone wish- QI-4, Hrushevskoho 16, tel. (+380) 32 260 23 62, www. ing to try traditional Ukrainian varenyky, cooked specially Porokhova Vezha vulyk.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW on your order. There is a fantastic choice among different This popular eatery can be a bit tricky to find. It’s lo- fillings: potato, cabbage, cheese, mushrooms and cherries. cated across the street from the Dominican Cathedral in Apart of varenyky, you can try similar dishes from other the ancient looking fortress with the two smirking lions national cuisine - Georgian khinkali, Italian ravioli. There is perched on the steps. Enter through the north side. Locals Uzbek also a choice of very tasty pickled vegetables, snacks and and travellers alike are attracted by the reasonable priced Bukhara homemade sausages. An average bill for a good meal will Ukrainian favourites and snug atmosphere perfect for en- Reasonable prices, a unique atmosphere and hearty au- be 30-40 Hr. The place spread on two floors, TV screens joying a glass of wine. The summer terrace with shashlyk thentic Uzbek cuisine make this place very popular. An offer football broadcasting and there is an English menu. grill is a popular cooling-off/filling-up point for hikers as- English menu is available upon request. The shurpa (mut- QA-3, Furmanska 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 58 86. Open cending and descending Vysokyi Zamok Mount. English is ton soup) was some of the best we’ve ever sampled and 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW in short supply, but the servers are charming and patient the cheburek (Uzbek meat pie), pilaf and shashlik are all (they’ve seen your kind before).QD-3, Pidval’na 4, tel. dripping with authenticity. The staff is very friendly, the Medivnia (+380) 32 276 51 62. Open 10:00 - 23:00. GBS food arrived quickly and with a smile. The cosy cottage The name Medivnia translates “Honey Brew”. It is located interior bends time and offers a view into an obscure land Open 12.00 - 01.00 in the heart of the old city. The interior design is fascinat- where most dream to travel, but never catch a flight.QA- ing, with pictures, and artifacts of “old Ukraine”. There are Much more restaurant recommendations 6, Furmanska street can be found at 3, Furmanska 6, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 25. Open 12:00 - (Opera House district) several rooms and the total seating capacity is 70. The cui- 01:00. PASW sine is a large variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes, meat, lviv.inyourpocket.com (+380) 32 244 42 25

24 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 25 Cafés Cafés Welcome to Ukraine’s coffee capital! Life for Lvivians re- Lvivska Manufaktura Kavy (Lviv Coffee Masoch Café volves around the café, and it’s no wonder that there is an Manufactures) This titillating theme place is dedicated to writer and origi- endless selection of establishments to choose from. Indeed, We cannot remember seeing so many different types of nal freak Leopold Ritter von Sacher-Masoch who was born it’s theoretically possible to visit a different café everyday coffee on offer in quite a while – all of it freshly roasted! in Lviv in 1836. Masoch enjoyed playing the role of the slave and never see the same place twice. No matter where you There is no food, and no one really speaks English – just and insisted that his dominatrixes wear furs. In fact, the word end up, you’re sure to find a charming atmosphere, rich coffee and tea. There is seating for 50 in a very informal, masochism was coined from his name. The menu, which can aromatic coffee and a loaded menu. The city also boasts relaxed atmosphere. The décor is fantastic – a rustic coffee be purchased as a souvenir, is loaded with fabulous and unu- a variety of must-visit theme cafés that brilliantly introduce design with grinders, bags of coffee, and old classic coffee sual dishes. If your husband is having difficulties deciding on and preserve the city’s diverse history and culture. If you’re posters scattered throughout. QC-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv a meal, he’s probably too distracted by the pornography that a coffee lover, you’ve come to the right place. For those that 7. Open 08:30 - 22:00. AGW appears on the menu and you should order for him. He’s sure are indifferent, prepare to get hooked. to appreciate the bull’s testicles in an oil and sweet pepper Mapa sauce. On your way out the door, don’t forget to reach into Amichi This a logical launching point for your romp around Lviv. Not Leopold’s pocket for this café’s version of a fortune cookie. It is a quaint little café-restaurant just off the beaten path. only do they offer tasty treats and desserts, you can also order QC-4, Serbska 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 18 72, www.masoch- The décor is “European New” with seating for about 25 maps, atlases and sightseeing booklets in Ukrainian, Polish cafe.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 01:00. PABSW with a constant flow of good ”mellow” music. The cuisine and English. Plan your day while sipping coffee or tea in the is European/Italian and very moderately priced. There is comfy interior or on the trendy veranda. The cakes are fla- Poshta na Drukarskiy a breakfast menu from 09:00-12:00 and a great business vourful but don’t be fooled by their recognisable names, i.e. From first appearances the café looks like it is in an old post lunch for 40Hr served from 12:00-16:00. The staff is fluent the “tiramisu” is actually chocolate cake with a cream cheese office that has been here for centuries. The themehere is in English which makes it a great place to hold private par- filling. QC-4, Halyts’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 272 55 69, www. “Lviv post cards” - thousands of them on all the walls. It is ties. QC-5, Kniazia Romana 16, tel. (+380) 32 235 47 53/ mapa.lviv.ua. Open 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGBW reckoned to be the largest collection of its kind in Ukraine. There are also some old postal machines and telephones (+380) 96 514 53 31, www.amici.com.ua. Open 09:00 - Maisternia Karameli 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PAVGSW giving it an authentic museum-type of effect. Their spe- This sweet shop is a great place to take children. 5 times cialty is “home -made pies” both savoury and sweet. Pork, Aroma café daily they make candy right there in the shop. All employees chicken, and salmon are some of the savoury ones; while This recent entry into the Lviv cafe scene was well worth have learned the technique in either Poland or Switzerland apple-cinnamon and peach-kiwi are some of the sweet the visit! Everything seemed to be fresh & homemade. and it is really fascinating to watch the process. There are ones. Having never tasted cooked kiwi - I had to try the later There are pastries, cakes, kish, gelato, and even lemonade. no artificial or synthetic ingredients used in their candies. and thoroughly enjoyed it. .QC-3, Drukarska 3, tel. (+380) It is a lovely modern place for 30 with a friendly English We tasted samples and they were so mouth watering good 50 434 71 48. Open 08:00 - 00:00. PASW speaking staff, Wi-Fi, and nice mellow music. Open 09:00 - that we just had to get a bag to take home with us.QB-3, 23:00.QD-4, Staroyevreiska 46, tel. (+380) 32 297 63 00. Krakivska 18, tel. (+380) 32 236 70 81/(+380) 98 577 35 77, Rurmaster Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAVGSW www.caramel.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:30. PAGW Do not let the name fool you – this is actually “strudel heaven”! A rurmaster was the name given to an expert Lviv’s Chocolate Workshop who laid the water supply in the medieval city of Lviv. That This lovely chocolate shop is easy to find as there is always Vienna Coffee house is why water pipes, funnels, and cranes that decorate the a crowd looking through the window and gathering at the café. Many great homemade strudels are yours for the tak- small sales stall. There is a small café at the entrance where ing. The sweet variety cost 22Hr and the savoury ones are there are many flavours of hot chocolate and coffee to 25Hr. The staff was great at English and was very cheerful choose. All the chocolate candies made here can be sam- and helpful. There is seating for 35 inside and 25 outside pled before you go to the shop. Milkshakes, ice cream, cakes in good weather.QC-3, Ploscha Rynok 35, tel. (+380) 98 and snacks are awaiting you as well. Also on the ground 638 65 08, www.rurmaster.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:00. floor, one can view the actual workshop where these deli- cacies are made. Souvenirs and toys are made of chocolate Spigarka and purchases can be shipped from here world-wide. A nice little “niche” cafe in the heart of the old city. The de- At Lviv’s epicentre you’ll find the popular Vienna Coffee QC-4, Serbs’ka 3, tel. (+380) 50 430 60 33, www.choco- cor is - do not laugh - “Old Austrian Apartment”. Opened House and Wien Hotel. The venue is split in two with late.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 - 20:00. PAGSW in 2012 this cosy cafe/shop has lots of home-made good- a café on one side and an elegant restaurant/banquet ies; cookies, and preserved fruit, jams, & veggies. It seats Lvivska Kopalna Kavy (Lviv’s Coffee Mine) room on the other. It is the perfect place for a romantic 25 and offers soups, sandwiches, and deserts at moder- At the entrance one sees a conveyer belt bringing up cof- breakfast, meeting with friends or celebrations of special ate prices.QC-3, Virmenska 27, tel. (+380) 32 235 59 21. fee from the underground coffee mine. So of course we events. Majestic instrument with 100 years history, the Open 10:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW jumped at the chance to go on a tour of this mine far be- harmonium decorates the hall. Order anything on the neath the streets of Lviv. Downstairs, we go to the mine menu with the word “Viennese” attached and you won’t Strudel House entrance where we put on a miners hat with a lamp and be disappointed. The Viennese schnitzel with mushroom Ya ist strudel in der Centre! A very unique concept indeed! a rather heavy battery pack. We then journey through the sauce could be the best schnitzel this side of the Danube. All kinds of strudel both savoury & sweet, some choices dim mine, avoiding the wagons of freshly mined coffee. It’s easy to become glued to your seat on the relaxing are: buckwheat, sauerkraut, spinach, chicken, pineapple, We stop along the way at little pockets where we sam- summer terrace, a perfect location for sipping rich cof- walnut, cherry and so on. Most strudel costs between 18- ple various spiced coffee. It was quite an experience. Back fee and gorging on apple strudel.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 20Hr. There are also several varieties of pancakes, salads up stairs there is a regular coffee shop with really yummy 12, tel. (+380) 32 235 87 52, fax (+380) 32 272 24 52. and ice cream as well as a nice wine list. There is seating cakes and cookies. QС-4, Rynok pl. 10, tel. (+380) 67 670 Open 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBW for 26 and service is great!QB-3, Shevs’ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 61 06, www.fest.lviv.ua. Open 08:00 - 23:00. AGW 294 82 06. Open 10:00 - 22:00. PAULGBW

26 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 27 Drink & Party Drink & Party your friends and meet new ones. 4 minutes walk from Praga Pub The Room-Wine & Snacks King Danylo monument.QC-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. Czechs drink more beer per capita than anyone on the This is a cute, little wine bar right in the centre of the old (+380) 32 225 65 54, www.4friends.com.ua. Open 10:00 planet. That being said, they expect only the best from city. They have a good selection of wine from France, Italy, - 23:00. PXW their breweries and Praga Lviv taps into this tradition by Spain, and Argentina. They also have some reasonably serving fresh from the source Budvar, Krušovice and other priced snacks and salads. It is a warm, comfortable local Bilyi Lev (White Lion) classic Czech brews. The pub is located in the basement to enjoy a glass of wine in. There is great “wine-bar” mu- In English the name translates into “White Lion” with a of the Praga complex, which includes a restaurant and sic to add to the atmosphere.QC-3, Lesi Ukrainky 18, tel. large statue of one to prove it. Formerly a brewery run café on the ground floor. Its welcoming neighbourhood (+380) 93 126 14 17. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. by monks who made their own beer. The pub offers this appeal and occasional boisterous crowds make this an beer and 30 other brands. There is menu in English with enticing venue for meeting-up, winding-down or view- Zenyk Glamour soups, salads, homemade varenyky and steaks. The prices ing a big game.QA-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) The theme of this pub is “glamour”, or to be precise, the are the most favourable. A speciality is the 2kg. mixed grill 32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. Open 11:00 - 24:00. vanity of glamour, as it is meant to be a spoof on glam- for 249Hr. There are 5 rooms with Wi-Fi and TV screens for PAEGBSW our. One feels this by viewing the unique décor, decora- sport events. Live music - jazz and rock - is played from tions, and photos. There is no English menu but the staff Thursday to Saturday.QC-3, Lesi Ukrainky, 15, tel. (+380) Pyvnytsia is warm and friendly and speaks some English. The spe- WIDE ORIGINAL 32 235 46 25/(+380) 67 675 51 23, www.white-lion.com. It is a great pub/restaurant, downstairs. Do not confuse it cialty is potato pancakes & beer which we quite enjoyed. CHOICE CUISINE ua. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PA6EBSW with the pub upstairs with the same address which is not QC-5, Rudanskoho 1, tel. (+380) 50 378 60 38. Open OF FRESH AND DRAUGHT TRUE IRISH really a pub at all. The design is a “brick type” with gives a 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BEER FRIENDLY Dublin cool-soothing effect. It is basically a restaurant by day and PABSW AND WHISKY ATmOSpHERE Dublin is known as “The true Irish pub”. It is slightly hid- a pub by night. There is room for about 70. The cuisine is Kryva Lypa tel. 272 88 74 den in an alley way, very close to the city centre known as International/Ukrainian and their specialty is to cook a lot Zenyk. Mytnyk Lane, 5 261 61 71 “The crooked Linden lane”. We arrived early on a Saturday of things with beer. The prices are pretty good with an av- This pub is dedicated to the Ukrainian Customs depart- night and the place was already filled. There were several erage meal costing only around 100Hr. The business lunch ment which is right next door. (The literal translation of TV screens and a few people were actually watching the is great! It costs just 35Hr and is served from 12:00-15:00. “mytnyk” is “customs agent”.) It is meant to take the Mickey game. Most people were just enjoying their friends and the English is no problem here.QH-2, Sholom Aleikhema 20, out of them; a bit of sarcasm which is displayed in its décor beer. The pub offers a wide choice of fresh draught beer and tel. (+380) 32 272 98 38/(+380) 96 835 05 02. Open 11:00 using various photos spread throughout the pub. Their

TM whiskey. They have a specialty, Dublin beer - what they call - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:00. specialty is beer and potato pancakes at great prices. This ‘live beer’ made in Ukraine (24Hr a pint). There are two halls is a place one doesn’t want to miss!QH-3, T. Kostyushka ground level for 45-50 guests, and downstairs seating 20-22 More great bars at 1, tel. (+380) 32 239 33 99. Open 8:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun guests. There is also a terrace outside, weather permitting. lviv.inyourpocket.com 10:00 - 06:00. PASW Editor’s note There is a great menu with Irish type pub grub and steaks guaranteed to make your mouth water! During weekdays Lviv’s clubs attract a diverse crowd, and you should there is a business lunch for only 50Hr.QA-4, Kryva Lypa be able to blend in quite easily. The great thing about prov. 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 88 74, www.dublin.com.ua. WE ROCK partying in Eastern Europe is that the locals are argu- Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GB ably more awkward on the dance floor than we are in 24/7 the west, so shrug off you inhibitions and convulse to Music Lab the beat. Warning: Locals are overtly friendly and often That’s one of a few places in Lviv which is open 24/7 and DRINKS • FOOD • SHISHA invite foreigners to party at their table. We’ve learned differs from most of Lviv eateries by its unusual interior. from repeated experience that it’s impossible for a Visiting so many places in Lviv we use to see venues deco- westerner to keep pace with locals when it comes to rated with a tint of history and here we are in the heart shooting horilka (vodka). Slow and steady wins the ho- of ancient city in a club with a modern glamourous inte- rilka race. rior. The menu offers international cuisine, three types of draught beer and a large variety of cocktails, energy drinks and good selection of whiskey. On weekends and holidays the space is transformed into a disco club. Live concert Bars & Pubs take place from time to time.QC-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 27, 4friends tel. (+380) 32 294 87 15, www.musiclab.com.ua. Open Truly what the Doors had in mind in the song “Show me 24hrs. P6VXSW the way to the next whiskey bar.” 4friends has up to 150 brands of well known and rare whiskeys from Scotland, Pijalnia horilky & pyva Ireland, Canada, USA and Japan. A wide range of testing Entering this café is like taking a step back in time to the sets pleases the eye and every member of the staff is a USSR days. It is Soviet food like people used to eat at specialist in whiskey and speaks good English. There are home. The prices are also from another dimension. Each snacks and a European menu with reasonable prices. dish costs just 20Hr and all drinks cost 10Hr each. They also Steaks are perfect. This pub is very popular with capac- serve original Lviv beer. It is a nice friendly restaurant at- ity for around 50. Cosy leather sofas for nice and relaxed mosphere in the daytime. In the night time there is more dinner and football with rock music to have fun with of a drinking crowd.QC-4, I-3, Ploscha Rynok 31, www. pijalnia.com.ua. Open 24hrs. €. ABS

28 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 29 Drink & Party Drink & Party spandex and cleavage lifting blouses are encouraged. The Clubs average age is mid-thirties, and tables can be reserved for 50Hr.QE-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380) 32 239 31 60. Open Anturazh 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PLGB This is a nice lounge club just not far from the centre and adjacent to the Bagrationi Restaurant. They share the Metro Club same menu. There are live performances with group from Those who think that there’s no metro in Lviv couldn’t be Russia, Poland, and Hungary. There is also a great DJ. The more mistaken. So what if it won’t transport you around club is known for its original cocktails, so do not miss out the city, Metro is most popular club in the city. Top-rated on tasting one! A karaoke fan will have a good time here. by expats in Lviv, it offers over 1000 sq.m of drive, outdoor Qprosp. Chornovola 59, tel. (+380) 67 105 81 81. Open area of around 400 sq.m, four bars with a quick service, a 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. restaurant, bar flyer show and travesty show. Stay out if you have sympathy for racism, xenofobia, drug use, homopho- Fenomen bia or aggression, this club is open to each international visi- The fact that this club is located on the edge of the city tor. The stuff speaks English, Polish and Turkish.QI-4, Zelena hasn’t deterred the throngs of local hipsters that routinely 14, tel. (+380) 67 670 42 43/(+380) 32 242 49 60, www. pack this place on weekends. Face control is relatively metroclub.com.ua. Open 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 30- strict; it’s better to be over than underdressed, and the 50Hr for girls, 35-60Hr for boys. PESW average age is just under thirty. The club has three zones: chill with a hookah in the “Magic Room”, house spins in the Millenium “Main Floor” and there are no surprises in the “RnB Café”. In Located in a former cinema, there is room for 1,000 in the English, the menu leaves nothing to chance and offers an 3 storied disco appealing to the university set. There are array of tasty salads, sandwiches, onion rings - everything popular DJ’s, go-go girls and video clips making a very you need to quell the munchies. Tables can be reserved for lively performance. Thursday is ladies night with free en- 200-800Hr depending on the zone and size of your party. trance until 23:00. The entrance is 30-40Hr. The restaurant (Marshrutka No.47A, which makes stops on pl. Danyla is set apart and has a “witch-craft” theme. Romantic music Halyts’koho, will drop you 50 metres from the club’s en- is played and many famous Ukrainian celebrities frequent trance.)QZelena 186, tel. (+380) 32 270 55 58/(+380) 93 the place whose pictures we didn’t recognize at all. The 077 57 77, www.fenomenclub.com. Open 22:00 - 05:00. menu is in English with European and Ukrainian cuisine, Closed Sun. Admission: Mon - free, Tue -30Hr, Wed-Fri - the average meal costing 150-200Hr. We tried the specialty, 40Hr, Sat - 50Hr. PALGBW a salad called “Lovely Lady” which was delicious!QH-2, Viacheslava Chernovola 2, tel. (+380) 32 240 35 91, www. Kult Club favorite-club.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. P Kult is a tribute Lviv’s icons past and present. A wall of fame wraps completely round the main hall. Though you Moloko may only recognise a couple faces like pop star Ruslana Moloko or Milk in English is disco type of club right on the or former Arsenal defender Oleg Luzhny, the charis- main street in the centre. It has a milk white design and white matic ambiance is unforgettable. Prices on Ukrainian and leather sofas and chairs. It occupies 2 floors above an outside European fare are reasonable; however, many items are 24 hour restaurant of the same name. It holds 200 and has priced per 100 grams, so ask the server the approximate DJ’s playing the latest hits till dawn. It is all part of a larger size of the dish in order to avoid confusion. Kult is perhaps outside complex that also include the Vezha Kramariv Res- best known for the live music (mostly jazz and blues) that taurant. It is in a medieval tower and is definitely a unique is staged nightly from 21:00.QB-5, Chaikovskoho 7, tel. eating experience. The menu, shared in all the different sec- (+380) 32 242 22 42, www.kult.lviv.ua. Open 12:00 - tions, is European and Ukrainian cuisine and very moderately 02:00. Admission is free. PAIEGSW priced. An average meal runs about 100-120Hr.QB-4, prosp. Svobody 16-18, tel. (+380) 96 073 36 60/(+380) 67 208 46 Lerroy Country Club 45, www.molokoclub.info. Open 22:00 - 06:00. This is not a country club in the traditional sense, i.e. there’s no golf course or swimming pool. Lerroy is actually a club Picasso with a country western theme - at least when it comes to By day (12:00-18:00), Picasso is a popular café known for the décor. On the night we were there, the DJ was playing its flavourful coffee and tasty treats. By night, it metamor- a medley of 80s Russian rock ballads. Most of the action phoses into one of Lviv’s most vibrant and popular clubs. takes place on and around the dance floor, but there’s also Concerts, retro parties and performances by top DJs fill plenty to do in the cocktail lounge and the hushed hookah an eclectic calendar. Face control is the rule: ditch the bar. The kitchen offers a splattering of local soups and sal- dirty trousers and comb your hair you filthy degenerate! ads, and the specialty is the Argentine steak. Entertainment Book a table Friday and Saturday for a meagre 30Hr.QJ-5, programmes, including the occasional striptease, are held Zelena 88, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 72, www.picasso.lviv. every Saturday. The club enforces the following dress code: ua. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Thu. Admission 30-60Hr. sneakers and sweatpants are prohibited, but leopard skin PIEBW

30 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 31 Drink & Party What to see Lviv’s old town is so densely packed with mesmerising, inspir- name Black Stone House didn’t always apply, it was previ- Renaissance Club ing and unique attractions that travellers often become para- ously known as Kyiv Stone House and Doctor’s Stone House. A stylish place to hang out! lysed with fascination and never leave. Known as the centre of In 1926 the building was bought by the city and a branch of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s Lviv’s historical museum was soon established.QC-3, Rynok brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. The un- pl. 4, tel. (+380) 32 272 06 71. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed commonly preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bend- Wed. Admission 10Hr, students and kids - 5Hr. ing streets and hidden ancient niches are sure to propel your mind through a vivid collage of centuries gone by. City Hall (Ratusha) Open: 24/7 2, Kovzhuna str., Lviv Lviv Highlights (Hotel George district) +380 67 22 01 444 Arsenal

Rafinad People Renaissance Club Rafinad brings a touch of class previously missing in Lviv’s A modern, bright club not far from the centre is open for club scene. You’ll need to pass a fairly strict face control: you serious clubbers 24/7. It holds about 200 on 2 floors worn-out jeans and sneakers won’t get you through the in a beautiful “Renaissance” style décor. Upstairs there is a The first city hall was established on Rynok ploscha (Market door. Service standards, the cuisine and even the music DJ & Go-Go girls from Friday to Sunday. During the week Square) in the middle of the 14th century. Constructed of are tuned to European tastes. The club itself is spacious, sports are shown on TV. Downstairs is karaoke every night wood, it was levelled by fire in 1381. A new hall was erected but the tight dance floor ensures there will be plenty of from 9:00 and it is quite popular here. They also have a in the early 15th century. The contemporary building is a grinding. The DJs, live music and performers are profes- great menu with European and Italian cuisine, and of The city arsenal and its adjoining defensive walls are visible conglomeration of the 15th century structure and three ma- sional and always entertaining. Other attractions include course, sushi. The prices are quite reasonable for a club - from Arsenal street. Construction on the original two-sto- jor expansions. The stone tower that hovers above the hall is two VIP rooms and a cigar hall.QB-5, Rudanskoho 1, tel. just 200Hr for an average meal. Staff is friendly and helpful ried stone building began in the 14th century, but was not the second of its kind. The original was erected in 1619, but (+380) 32 261 61 68/(+380) 66 400 08 88, www.rafinad- and easy to communicate with.QB-5, Kovzhuna 2, tel. completed until 1555. After nearly two centuries of toil this by the beginning of the 19th century was deemed unstable club.com. Open 24 hrs. Admission Mon-Thu 30Hr for (+380) 67 220 14 44. Open 24hrs. PAW original structure was completely destroyed by fire after and demolished. The 65 meter high replacement is a replica girls, 50Hr for boys; Fri-Sun 50Hr for girls, 100Hr for only 16 years of operation, and the contemporary build- of the original. Pace yourselves, it’s 306 steps up to the view- boys. PALEGW Split Club Lviv Split is a one-stop-shop for all your dining, drinking and ing was constructed in its place from 1574-75. When the ing platform. In 2008 a local pornographer boldly used City entertainment needs. The Irish pub blends with a stylish Swedes invaded in 1704 the arsenal took a beating, but all Hall’s roof as a backdrop for photos, which were splashed restaurant that serves Ukrainian, European and Japanese holes were patched within two years. In the 18th and 19th all over the Internet. This embarrassment led local authori- cuisine. The restaurant also features a private dining room centuries the arsenal was refortified and lost some of its ties to implement stricter security measures including the where an itamae whips up inventive sushi dishes for up to original form. Most recently, two of the upper floors were installation of surveillance cameras. Smile… you’re being eight. Split’s strip club is renowned for its incredibly talent- restored and now house a museum. Parts of the exterior watched by a Ukrainian security cop.QC-4, Rynok pl. 1. ed dancers and is open from 22:00 - 04:00. The club’s spe- have been excavated in order to reveal original walls, win- Admission to the city hall tower - 5Hr. cialty is the aqua show, in which the dancer takes a show- dows and roof. The swords forged in Lviv gained the repu- er! Private, lap and table dances are also available. A 100Hr tation as some of the best in Europe. In the 18th Century Italian Yard (Italiys’kyi dvoryk) admission applies for the strip club.QB-5, Mickiewicza pl. the arsenal was also used as a prison. QD-4, Pidval’na 5, 6/7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22 00, www.split.lviv.ua. Open tel. (+380) 32 235 86 61. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. 24hrs. PTAILEGSW Admission 10Hr, kids, students and senior citizens - 5Hr.

Black Stone House (Chorna Kamianytsia) Adult Entertainment The Gas Station There is no gas here, but one can definitely get ones batter- ies recharged here. There is pole dancing near the entrance and strip-tease from time to time and a giant brick ware- house type of building with a huge hall seating over 200. This romantic hotspot is located within the Kornjakt Palace Concerts are performed most evenings with groups from on Rynok pl. Lvivians, visitors to the palace’s museum and Russia, Ukraine, and elsewhere with an admission fee from random pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air 50Hr upwards. While it is an “adult club” at night, it is a great coffee lover’s oasis. Completely severed from the complexi- LuxuRiOus NigHtCLub restaurant all the time. There is a picture menu to give an ties outside, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of idea of the dishes, many items going from 30-60Hr. There This exceptional architectural monument of the 16th-17th Italian Renaissance. The mellow music and delectable fra- disco • karaoke • lounge room are steaks for 85Hr, or try the giant “Hulgian Supper Plate” centuries is matchless not only in Lviv, but in the whole of grances make for a truly special café experience. If it all looks CHORNOVOLA 59 for 2-3 persons costing just 375Hr. All the food is served Europe. Construction on this alluring structure began in 1588 familiar, you’ve probably seen the courtyard one of the many on board, not plates, and we are sure you will be well fed. and incorporated locally mined, vibrant grey sandstone. The local and foreign films that shot scenes here. Concerts are oc- 067 105 81 81 QH-1, Dzherelna 20, tel. (+380) 96 644 76 23, www. imposing black colour is a product of long-term absorption casionally staged here; the courtyard is known for its uncanny thegas.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 00:00. PALGSW by the stone of dust, dirt and smoke that swirled about the acoustic resonance.QC-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 market (coal was used to heat homes until the 1960s). The 04. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 2Hr.

32 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 33 What to see What to see The Assumption Church (Uspenska Tserkva) Churches & Cathedrals This vibrant example of Renaissance architecture has served as the centre of the Orthodox Christian faith for centuries. St. George Cathedral (Sobor Sviatoho Yura) In the middle of the 16th century, the Assumption Broth- erhood was founded here along with a printing press and a school. The church has experienced many episodes of ruin and reconstruction. The first Assumption Church was constructed of wood in 1344, but was destroyed by fire during an attack on Lviv by Polish feudal lords in 1350. The second church was built of stone in 1421 and experienced a relatively peaceful existence until it too was levelled by the great fire of 1527. (With the exception of City Hall and one other structure, the fire of 1527 devoured the entire city.) The replacement was completed in 1559 and, you Jan III Sobieski Palace (Palats Kornjakta) crowds, cafés and pack of lethargic stray dogs Rynok This Greek Catholic cathedral, constructed in 1744-1761, is guessed it, was completely destroyed by fire in 1571. The Square is the heart of this magnificent city. Throughout a remarkable example of Rococo architecture. Located at danger posed by fire was apparently driven home and the the Middle Ages stone weights and balances clanked with the height of St. George Mount, the cathedral dominates cathedral constructed in 1591 has survived until the present. each sale, livestock pleaded and villains writhed in pain the surrounding area, but doesn’t clash with the landscape. Also located on the premises are Kornjakt’s Tower and the at the punishment stake. Amazingly, within this relatively The main façade is set-off by a portal watched over by St. Chapel of Three Prelates.QB-3, Ruska 7. small area there are 45 protected architectural monu- Athanasius and St. Leo (works by renowned sculptor Johann ments. Each structure has its own captivating history, but Georg Pinzel). In the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt where the oldest and most commonly wowed-about are Chorna celebrated figures of the Ukrainian church are entombed. A Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) and Kornjakt Palace (also park is nestled behind the palace and features a distinctive called King Jan III Sobieski Palace). Regardless the era, the bell tower, which houses a remarkable bell. Cast in 1341, it government has always kept a keen eye on the square. The is the oldest bell in Ukraine. The cathedral grounds are ex- This is a unique monument of the Renaissance period, one of imposing structure in the middle is City HallQC-3/4. tremely calming and it’s hard to imagine that hard times only a few existing in Ukraine, and is the largest structure on once prevailed. Following the death of metropolitan Andrei Rynok Square. Until the late 16th century the area on which The Opera House Sheptytsky in March 1946, Soviet authorities coerced church the palace stands was occupied by two smaller buildings, leaders to denounce Rome and join the Russian Orthodox which were purchased by a Greek merchant named Constan- Church. Justice prevailed in 1989 as the Greek Catholic tine Kornjakt. He subsequently ordered the reconstruction Church re-established itself and resumed operation of the The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery of the two houses into a new grandiose edifice. Fragments cathedral. The last major event to take place at St. George This is one of the most inspiring sites in Lviv. The area around of the older structures have been preserved and include the happened 2001. While visiting Lviv, Pope John Paul II lived in which the monastery stands has evolved over the years, but Gothic hall (an unmatched sample of Lviv’s Gothic influence) the Metropolitan’s Palace.QG-3, Svyatoho Yura pl. 5. the monastery itself remains as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin and the cross-sectional support beams that hold the third The Armenian Cathedral (Virmenskyi Sobor) envisioned. Constructed in the 17th century, the cathedral’s floor ceiling. Following Kornjakt’s death, the house was taken façade is protected by statues of the sacred order of Ber- over Jakub Sobieski, the father of the future Polish king Jan nardine and the niches of the second tier hold images of III. The Polish-Russian Eternal Peace Treaty (anything with a Mary, Jesus and apostles Peter and Andrew. Be respectful, name this lofty deserves to fail) was signed at the palace in Many European theatres can boast an extraordinary con- of course, but don’t be afraid to drop in on a prayer session. 1686. Since 1908 the building has housed a museum. One of struction history, but Lviv’s opera house is unique in that The cathedral’s magnificent interior is stirring. Originally the brightest expositions of any of the city’s museums, the it is built on top of a river. The Poltva river flows beneath located outside the city walls, the monastery had its own Royal Chambers, can be found here. The palace’s Italian Yard the stage and continues through centre deep beneath defences. A section of the original protective wall remains is a Lvivian favourite and is not to be missed. QC-3, Rynok pl. the asphalt (no doubt a contributor to the many sinkholes and can be viewed from Pidvalna street. The impressive col- 6. Admission 8Hr, children - 3Hr. that tend to startle foreign visitors). The project was put umn that stands before the cathedral supports a sculpture up for tender and many top European architects tossed in of St. Jan and was constructed in 1736. Much speculation Market Square (Ploscha Rynok) their bids. It was Polish architect Zygmunt Gorgolewski - The history of Lviv is a tapestry woven by more than 100 exists concerning controversial events that have taken place designer of Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in Berlin, the Gemälde- nationalities. Armenians began inhabiting the city in the within the monastery and its cells. One of the more famous galerie in Dresden and the Vienna State Opera - who pro- 14th century and quickly established their own quarter cases concerns a letter missive (sanction of trade) addressed posed the radical and intriguing idea of burying the small complete with a small cathedral completed in 1370. This to Dracula.QD-5, Soborna pl. 1-3. river beneath the opera. His plans also included the use of original building perished in the fire of 1527. The struc- a concrete foundation, a first for Europe. With optimistic ture that stands today blends a few architectural styles trepidation, the city planners agreed and the Opera House including Old Russian, Gothic and Armenian. The original was completed in 1900. The building began to sink right bell tower was erected in 1571, but was later toppled by away, but settled in the decades that followed. The struc- the Turks during a siege. The 19th century version of the ture’s stunning main façade is widely recognised and ap- bell tower is a restoration of the original. The courtyard pears on the city’s emblem and is also displayed on the provides a tranquil setting for the decorative column and Time and space gush through old town’s veins and swirl 20Hr note. Matinees usually begin at 11:00 and evening figure of St. Christopher. The neighbouring buildings are ‘round Rynok ploscha: a cobbled whirlpool of colour performances at 18:00.QA-2, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. those of a former Armenian bank, established in the 17th and sound. With its stunning palaces, fountains, statues, (+380) 322 72 88 60, www.lvivopera.org. century, and Lviv’s oldest pawnshop.QC-3, Virmens’ka 7.

34 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 35 What to see What to see The Chapel of the Boims (Kaplytsia Boimiv) The Latin Cathedral (Latynskyi Sobor) pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 75 69 66. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun This is a spectacular example of ancient Lviv’s Gothic influ- city tours 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, students and ence. Officially known as the Archcathedral Basilica of the children - 2Hr. Photography allowance - 20Hr. Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, it’s understand- Free Tours of Lviv able why most just call it the Latin. Constructed in 1360, You can see tour schedule on website.QA-2, The Op- Lviv Art Gallery a relic was incorporated into the first foundation stone by era House, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 93 795 79 With 24 halls and more than 400 works from leading King Kazimir the Great. Both the interior and exterior have 59/(+380) 32 253 24 90, [email protected], French, Italian, Austrian, German, Russian, Polish and evolved throughout the centuries, but the sanctuary and www.freetours.com.ua. Ukrainian masters, this is the largest and arguably finest altar have remained unchanged. The cathedral was se- art museum in Ukraine. The collection of Polish art is un- verely damaged in the fire of 1527. During its restoration Lemberg Tour matched outside of Poland. Pieces in this collection date in the 18th century, Baroque forms replace those of the Lemberg Tour provides Lviv city tours, tours around from the 16th to 20th centuries and include impressive Constructed in the early 17th century on the grounds Gothic era. The marvellous stained glass windows were Ukraine, accommodation and transport services.QD- works by leading 19th century masters Artur Grottger and of what was a city cemetery; this quaint structure was incorporated at the end of the 19th century. A cemetery 3, I-2, Vynnychenka 26/1, tel. (+380) 32 276 54 42, Jan Matejko. The pride of the museum, two world art mas- originally intended for use as a crypt by the Boim family. once existed on and around what is now Katedral’na plos- [email protected], www.lemberg-tour. terpieces, is Georges de La Tour’s “Payment of Dues” and George Boim, a Lviv merchant and moneylender of Hun- cha (Cathedral Square). In 1765 all burials were relocated com.ua. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Tiziano Vecellio’s “Portrait of a Man”. The halls on the first garian origin, started the project and his son, Paul-George, and further burials forbidden. The cemetery’s chapel, the Wseswit floor regularly host thematic exhibitions. Last entrance put the finishing touches on what would become a per- Chapel of the Boim Family, remains on the site and is a pro- Wseswit provides incoming tours to Lviv and one hour before close.QA-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 manent feature in Lviv’s stunning centre. The side of the tected historical monument. Pope John Paul II attended Ukraine, reservation of airline and railway tickets, 261 44 48. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed chapel is decorated with fretwork that gives the impres- mass here on June 26th, 2001.QC-4, Katedral’na pl. 1. transfer arrangements. Carpathians, health-resorts Mon. Admission 10Hr, children - 5Hr. sion that the entire structure has been turned inside-out. of Carpathians, Morshyn, Truskavets, trips to Crimea, Fresco portraits of George Boim and his wife Jadwiga can reservation of hotels and car rent are also available. Lviv History Museum be viewed from Halyts’ka vul. The site has been protected QB-5, F. Lista 3/3, tel./fax (+380) 32 297 05 68, wseswit Founded in 1893, this is one of Lviv’s oldest museums. by UNESCO since the 1970s.QC-4, Katedral’na pl. 1, tel. @wseswit.lviv.ua, www.wseswit.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 - Originally located in a chamber of City Hall, the contem- (+380) 32 274 40 47. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A6UL porary museum is spread out among four unique architec- Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. tural monuments dating from the 16th-18th centuries. The collection is composed of more than 330 thousand exhib- The Dominican Cathedral by the Lviv Scientific Library and is used as an archive.QB- its that offer fascinating snapshots into the lives of those (Dominicanskyi Sobor) 4, Teatral’na 11. Excursion starts every hour from 13:00 who inhabited Lviv from ancient times up to the present. The foundation of the Dominican Monastery dates back to until 18:00 and can be ordered in Ravlyk Salon (Svobody The main branch can be found at Rynok ploscha (Market the second half of the 13th century when Constance, the prosp. 15, tel. 0 32 298 25 95). Exhibition admission 3Hr, Square) in the Kornjakt Palace. During the 17th Century wife of Lev I of Galicia, commissioned the construction of The St. Peter and Paul Church of the student 2Hr. Underground excursion 9Hr, student 7Hr. the palace served as a royal roost for Jakub Sobieski, the a small wooden church in gratitude for the generosity of Jesuit Order (Kostiol Jezuitiv) father of Polish king Jan III, and Wladyslaw IV, the Polish the local Dominican monks. Eventually destroyed by fire Located with its back turned to Svobody prosp. and the Museums conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian in 1408, a Gothic-era stone church was constructed in its monument of Тaras Shevchenko, this is considered one crown. The collection’s highlights include ancient furni- place. The monastery, which could accommodate more of the more mystical places in Lviv. Much like the Jesuits Brewing Museum ture, pictures, silver ornaments and the Royal Chambers. than 100 monks, experienced its heyday beginning in themselves, the structure is meant to be kept an enigma In recognition of the 290th anniversary of one of Europe’s The museum’s second and third branches are also located 1612 when it become the central monastery of the Eastern and random tourists will find it difficult to gain full access. oldest breweries, the Brewing Museum was opened to the on the square in buildings 4 and 24. The fourth branch is European Dominican Order. In 1742 cracks were detected The church was constructed in the beginning of the 17th public in 2005. Six-hundred square metres of the brewery’s located at the Arsenal on Pidval’na vul. 5 and is dedicated in the cathedral’s arch. An emergency meeting was con- century and is modelled after the classic Church of the Gesù historic premises were specially renovated in order to host to the region’s history of weaponry. Excursions in English vened and all rescue options were exhausted. Demolition in Rome. The size of the church is impressive: 41metres long, this unique museum. The collection contains a plethora of can be difficult to rustle up, but most of the exhibits speak commenced in 1749. Construction on the new cathedral, 26 metres high and 22.5 metres wide. Lviv’s founding Jesuits exceptional beer utensils and brewing hardware that repre- for themselves.QC-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 32 274 33 designed by architect Jan de Witte, began shortly after. are historically characterized as aggressive missionaries who sent various epochs. Admission includes a trip to the tasting 04, www.lhm.lviv.ua/eng. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed quickly established a devout following. The sect was also hall: a titillating bonus for all fans of Lvivs’ke (Львiвське) beer. Wed. Admission 10Hr, students and senior citizen 5Hr. known for its savvy in the area of property development. Excursions are available in Polish, Russian and Ukrainian, and When they first settled in Lviv in the 16th century they pos- descriptions in English under each exhibit make it enjoyable sessed absolutely no property. When Austria ordered the for the rest.QG-1, Kleparivs’ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 294 80 65. abolition of the Jesuits 1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned Open 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Tue. Admission: with sampling property worth up to one million thalers (big bucks for 20Hr, without sampling - 10Hr, children - 5Hr. that time). A section of the premises is currently occupied Johann Pinzel Museum This museum presents 32 sculptures of the world-renown 18th century Lvivian sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel. Often The bell tower was constructed in 1865. During the Soviet referred to as Ukrainian’s Michelangelo the beauty and era the site was used as a regional archive and as a school mastery of his work justifies this distinction. Little is known for would be printing workers. After restoration in 1972 the about the sculptor’s life and controversy continues to hov- Dominican Monastery opened as a museum dedicated to er around his identity, but doesn’t that make his art all the the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have since more alluring? If you’ve decided that you don’t have time left the building. Religious services have also resumed. to visit a museum while in Lviv: skip lunch, head to Mytna One of the most impressive sights in the city - the collection of QD-3, Museina pl. 1. pl. and discover the essence of Ukrainian art.QD-5, Mytna Johann Pinzel Museum

36 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 37 What to see What to see Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics National Museum lychakiv cemetery It’s appropriate that this museum of ancient relics is lo- The National Museum was originally established in 1905 cated in one of Lviv’s most ancient churches. St. John the as a private collection for the church by metropolitan Baptist Church was originally built in 1250, a time of pro- Andrei Sheptytsky. It was later transferred to the city in found transition and growth in the newly established cap- 1913. Throughout its more than 100 years of existence an ital of Galicia. Though it has been reconstructed numer- extraordinary 130 thousand exhibits have been collected. ous times, an antique feel prevails. The museum opened The museum’s pride is also Ukraine’s largest display of in 1993 as a branch of the Lviv Art Gallery. Artistic works, Ukrainian sacral art, which dates from the 12th-18th cen- sacral relics and archaeological findings tell the enthral- turies. Icons, sculptures, manuscripts and decorative carv- ling story of ancient life in the region. Dated to the second ings immortalize Ukraine’s religious past. The museum’s half of the 14th century, the collection’s “Lviv Virgin and branch located at Drahomanova 42 houses a collection Child” is one of the oldest existing Ukrainian icons.QC-1, of Ukrainian modern art. Most notable are the paintings Uzhgorods’ka 1, tel. (+380) 32 272 28 86. Open 10:00 - of renowned 20th century Ukrainian masters. Tours are 18:00. Closed Mon. available in English, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian.QB-3, Arriving in a city for the first time, most sane travel- Svobody prosp. 20, tel. (+380) 32 235 88 56. Open 10:00 lers don’t head straight for the local cemetery. But Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17Hr, students 6.50Hr. Lviv is unique in many ways, and one of the city’s Known for its unique collection of Ukrainian cultural most distinctive, beautiful and historic locales is the artefacts, this celebrated museum houses more than Religion History Museum Lychakivs’ke Cemetery. Believe it or not, this is an ideal 83 thousand items. The stunning rugs and tapestries, This distinctive museum displays exhibits representing location to begin your exploration of Lviv’s diverse his- delicate wooden crafts and ancient musical instruments Ukraine’s national religions and is located with the Domini- tory, fascinating culture and stunning art: what Père provide vivid frames into the lives of the region’s past can Cathedral. The cathedral was originally constructed in Lachaise is to Paris, Lychakivs’ke is to Lviv. inhabitants. The clock exhibit is the largest and most the second half of the 13th century by Constance, the wife Officially established in 1786 by Austro-Hungarian valuable in Ukraine, but it’s the vibrant assortment of em- of Lev I of Galicia, in recognition of Lviv’s gracious Domini- authorities, the first burials actually took place in the broidered national attire that really stands out and tends can monks. The museum opened in 1972 and was dedicat- 16th century. Since then, more than 400,000 inhabit- to bring touring groups to a sudden halt. The collection ed to the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have ants have been laid to rest beneath these hallowed of jewellery is also impressive and features a remarkable since left the building. There are more than 50 thousand ex- Among all pharmacies around Lviv, this one is outstanding and enigmatic grounds. Grave markers hold mournful silver episcopal baton dated to the 11th-13th centuries. hibits and include a magnificent assembly of icons from the tributes inscribed in Ukrainian, Russian, German, Polish, The main exposition is located within the former premise 16th-19th centuries, an impressive set of Torahs and Bibles cated in a drugstore established in 1735 by a military phar- Armenian and Latin - evidence of the city’s diversity of a Galician-era bank. A second branch featuring fabrics, and voluminous displays of Russian old prints. One of the macist. The drugstore remains in operation and continues and turbulent past. Throughout the 19th century, plots porcelain, Dutch wares and furniture from the Renaissance museum’s most valuable pieces is Ivan Fyodorov’s Ostroh to mix its signature “Iron wine” used to treat anaemia. This were reserved by elite and middleclass families, artisans, to the beginning of the 20th century is located at Rynok pl. Bible. Fyodorov, an exiled Muscovite, established Ukraine’s distinctive angular house on the corner of Drukars’ka and scientists, spiritual leaders and politicians. For obvious 10.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 15 (Rynok pl. 10), tel. (+380) first printing press in Lviv. Works by numerous renowned Stavropihiyska hosts an exposition of more than 3,000 ar- reasons, this trend shifted during the Soviet era, and 32 297 01 57. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis- theologians from Ukraine and abroad representing Catholi- ticles. The most curious of which are the pharmaceutical resulted in a fascinating contrast: wedged between sion 10Hr, children 5Hr. cism, Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and other religions are scales located in the opening hall. The second hall was ancient chapels and elite family crypts stand simple on display in the library. An archaeological exhibition en- originally used as a stockroom and currently displays phar- monuments, tributes to departed communists. Museum of Historical Valuables titled “The Museum’s Treasure” is located in the cellar. The maceutical instruments from a variety of epochs. Within Communal graves of soldiers and freedom fighters can This museum recently opened in 2005 following the res- cathedral also hosts concerts and organ recitals.QD-3, Mu- the third hall you’ll discover an ancient laboratory that was also be found. The most renowned is the grave of the toration of the enthralling Bandinelli Palace. The current seina pl. 1, Dominican Cathedral, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 00. reproduced on the basis of pictures and engravings. An Lwów Eaglets. The Eaglets were Polish child soldiers exhibitions constitute only part of what will be a much Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, 3 Hr for apartment house belonging to one of Lviv’s 16th century who defended Lviv during the Polish-Ukrainian War larger display and include a stunning display of gold and children and students. Night excursion - 500Hr. petty bourgeois has been reconstructed in the internal (1918-1919). Lviv was ultimately seized by the Soviet silver jewellery, pottery and miscellaneous civic articles. court yard.QC-3, Drukars’ka 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 41. Union in 1939; the grave was desecrated and turned The building itself casts a shadow over the exhibit; to stroll The Ancient World and the Middle Ages Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 5Hr, students and senior into a dump in 1971. Despite opposition by Ukrainian the newly renovated palace halls is worth the meagre The building that houses this branch of the Lviv History citizen 3Hr. nationalists, the site was restored and reopened in 2005. charge of admission.QC-3, Rynok pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 Museum is a fabulous example of 16th century Renais- Lychakivs’ke is a protected historical monument. This is 06 71. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 3Hr, sance architecture. The collection spotlights the history of The Weapon Museum “Arsenal” a much deserved designation, as it rivals many of Eu- students and senior citizen 2Hr. Western Ukraine from ancient times to the Middle Ages Establishing a weapons museum at the Arsenal was a no- rope’s ancient necropolises in not only size, but in the and includes introductions to Lviv’s foundation in the 13th brainer for city planners. It’s a brisk walk up the hill, but beauty of its sculptures. Visitors are often stopped in Museum-Shop FC Karpaty century by King Danylo Halytsky and the plight of western the fascinating array of swords, daggers, spears, lances, their tracks by the remarkable statue of an angle gaz- This is a shop with all sorts of the usual “football souvenirs”; Ukrainians under the rule of controversial hetman Bohdan fire-arms, armour and other military equipment make the ing sadly towards heaven. Grief, strength and sacrifice scarf’s, jerseys, coffee mugs, etc. And a mini-museum for Khmel’nyts’kyi.QC-4, Rynok pl. 24, tel. (+380) 322 72 08 climb well worth it. The collage of locally crafted weapons are the dominant themes represented in these gripping the local football club - Karpaty FC. The quiet-shrine like 74. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 3Hr, stu- and armour really stirs the imagination. The museum has monuments. Plan on spending at least a few hours if room is filled with photos, banners, medals, & trophies of dents and senior citizen 2Hr. also acquired samples of ancient weapons from around the you hope to see them all, and for those with time limita- the local teams’ many conquests throughout the years. It world. Chronologically organised by weapon type, you’ll tions the sculptures located at the graves of Armenian also serves as a ticket outlet for the home matches. Open The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” have no problems finding your own way around and your Archbishop Samuel Stefanowicz, Dr. Józef Torosewicz 11:00-19:00.QB-5, Mykoly Voronoho 3, tel. (380) 67 322 If you haven’t noticed by now, Ukrainians love pharma- whacky uncle will definitely spring at the chance to be pho- and actress Regina Markovsky (Sleeping Beauty) are not 25 67, fax (+380) 32 235 02 07, [email protected], ceuticals. There’s a drug store on practically every corner tographed in authentic knight’s armour.QD-4, Pidval’na 5, to be missed.QK-4, Mechnykova 33, tel. (+380) 322 75 www.fckarpaty.lviv.ua/en/museum/. Open , Mon, Tue, of every city! The foundation of a museum dedicated to tel. (+380) 32 235 86 61. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. 54 15. Admission 10Hr, 5Hr for children. Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. the apothecary is very fitting. The Pharmacy Museum is lo- Admission 8Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr.

38 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 39 Where to stay Where to stay The boom is on for Lviv’s hotel industry! Throughout its history, the city’s stunning architecture, rich history and SYMBOL key exciting dining and entertainment options have drawn travellers in hordes. During the last few years, many new P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted establishments were opened to serve Lviv’s guests. Now, all hotels and hostels offer a full range of comfort, style and O Casino H Conference facilities service. T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled Tired of hotels? A number of agencies offer renovated apartments that can be rented on a nightly basis, and are F Fitness centre L Guarded parking considerably cheaper than many hotel rooms. The advan- R tages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly definite pluses. K Restaurant J Old town location D Sauna C Swimming pool Cream of the crop Nobilis I Fireplace W Wifi Astoria A great 1st class hotel in the centre which opened in Upmarket The Astoria is a refreshing addition to the Lviv hotel scene. B Outside seating 2011.There are 49 exquisitely decorated rooms ranging It is in a very convenient location being just a few hundred from ‘standard’ to the “Nobel Suite”. There is a quaint LH Hotel & Spa VAT (20%) and breakfast included unless otherwise lounge bar open 24 hours and a piano bar with live mu- If you want to keep fit while travelling - this is the place! It is metres from the opera. Its design is “Academic-modern”. stated There are 41 elegantly styled-fully equipped rooms. The sic daily and a special performance every Sunday. The a lovely, modern 34 room hotel near the centre with its own price ranges from 990Hr for a single classic (1,450Hr in Nobilis Restaurant has a gourmet blend of tantalizing adjoining sport and fitness club. The rooms are a kind of modern, hi-tech design with lots of stone. Some even have high season) and 1,310Hr for a comfort double (1,820Hr in Grand Hotel Mediterranean cuisine and signature local dishes, which a “glass bathroom”. (You gotta see it to believe it). All rooms high season). The deluxe apartment goes for 2,990Hr and Grand is extremely adept at meeting the needs of west- are certain to delight your taste sensations and surpass come with breakfast included and free access to the sport is great for small business meetings. A very healthy buffet ern travellers. Located on Lviv’s main thoroughfare, the your expectations. It also offers romantic private dinners, and fitness clubs and full size indoor pool. There are also 3 breakfast is included in the price. In the basement there is hotel was completely renovated in the late 90’s and has breakfast in bed and more. Room service menu avail- different types of saunas and a salon with all the trimmings a jazz club scheduled to open in spring 2014. The staff was an elegant appeal. Rooms come with classic interiors, able 24-hours. Restaurant hours: 11:00 – 23:00. Breakfast for the ladies. Use of one of the seven tennis courts is extra warm and friendly with great English, which is a must for modern amenities and views of either the quiet courtyard hours: Monday-Friday: 07:00 - 10:30, Saturday-Sunday as is the ping-pong. There is also a great authentic Italian working here.QA3, Horodots’ka 15, tel. (+380) 32 242 27 or of bustling Svobody prosp. The breakfast buffet served 08:00 - 11:30.QI-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 25 95, fax restaurant open 10:00-23:00 with an average price of just 01, fax (+380) 32 242 27 16, [email protected], in Grand’s renowned restaurant is included in the room (+380) 32 295 79 97, [email protected]. 200Hr. Simply a great place to stay!QI-4, Pl. Petrushevycha astoriahotel.ua. 41 rooms (5 singles 1190Hr, 27 doubles charge, as is a membership to an upscale fitness centre ua, www.nobilis-hotel.com.ua. 49 rooms (40 standards 1, tel. (+380) 32 295 60 36, fax (+380) 32 260 23 93, 1310Hr, 3 apartments 2990Hr, 5 Superior 1390 - 1510Hr, that features a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, massage 2475Hr, 8 suites 3630 - 3960Hr, 1 apartment 7040Hr). [email protected], www.lhhotel.com.ua. 34 rooms (8 Extra bed 250Hr). P iHAULKWhhhh service, solarium, aerobics hall and gym. The professional PiHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh standard 850Hr, 17 standard superior 950Hr, 9 deluxe staff is fluent in English making for a no-hassle experi- 1200Hr). P iAFKDCw hhhh Citadel Inn ence.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 72 40 Panorama Lviv Hotel Located near centre, Citadel is actually a 19th century for- 42, fax (+380) 322 76 90 60, [email protected]. PANORAMA Lviv Hotel is perfect for both business trips Ramada Lviv tress. Encased in such a unique old-world atmosphere, it’s ua, www.ghgroup.com.ua. 62 rooms (standarts 880 - and romantic getaways. Located in the heart of the city, This lovely modern hotel opened in time for the EURO-2012 easy to shrug off contemporary problems and just relax. 1150Hr, junior suite 1540 - 1850Hr, suite 2400Hr, extra apartments have spectacular views of the Opera House football championship. It is on the edge of the city just 10 Staff is very courteous and adept at serving foreign clients. bed 300Hr). PHARFLGKDW hhhh and the ancient cityscape that lies beyond. Nice rooms Twenty-six elegant, ultra-comfortable rooms are avail- come equipped with air-conditioning, telephone, filtered minutes from the airport and is also close to the new stadi- um. A great buffet breakfast with “real coffee” not the usual able and come standard with air-conditioning, cable TV, Leopolis tap water, refrigerator with mini-bar and satellite TV. The “hotel coffee” is included. There are two conference rooms safe, mini-bar, bathrobes, slippers, hair-dryer, telephone Located in a renovated 18th century structure just steps hotel is easy and convenient junction in the centre. The for 50 and 200 people respectively. They can be rented by and Internet access. The romantic Garmata Restaurant from historic Rynok pl., Leopolis is a nose ahead when it exclusive self-titled Panorama restaurant on the 7-th floor the day or by the hour at very reasonable prices - all fully serves succulent European and Ukrainian cuisine. Guests comes to class. All rooms are unique, stylishly designed serves a complimentary breakfast, lunch and dinner. The equipped. The Ramada was made for the disabled in mind. are also welcome to enjoy the sauna, gym and conference and come with classy touches such as heated tile floors, exquisite menu and popular panoramic terrace make this There is laundry service available while a hair dresser and a and banquet rooms.QH-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) anti-allergenic features, stereo systems that weave one of the most intriguing and definitely the most ro- top of the line fitness centre are planned for the not too dis- 32 295 77 77/(+380) 32 295 90 00, fax (+380) 32 295 90 throughout the rooms (there are even speakers in the mantic venues in the city. Excellent conference facilities tant future. We found the staff very helpful and friendly with 00, [email protected], www.citadel-inn. shower), high-speed wireless Internet, soundproof triple- are available.QA-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32 a great command of English. It may be a bit out of town but com/en. 26 rooms (standards 1190 - 1400Hr, superior pane windows, etc. A complimentary buffet breakfast is 225 90 00/(+380) 50 431 95 99, fax (+380) 32 225 90 shuttle bus service can be arranged.QZymna Voda village, 1590 - 1800Hr, suite 2990 - 3390Hr, extra bed 200 - 400Hr). served in the elegant hotel’s restaurant. Special executive 01, [email protected], www.hotel-opera. Yavorivska 2a, tel. (+380) 32 243 00 10, fax (+380) 32 243 PTHARUFLGBKDXwW hour service from 17:30 until 19:00 with complimentary com.ua. 51 rooms (12 singles 850 - 1020Hr, 29 doubles 12 14, [email protected], www.ramadalviv. hhhhh soft and alcohol drinks and canapés in the cosy Library 1150 - 1300Hr, junior suite 1540Hr, suite 2380Hr, extra com.ua/en/. 103 rooms (12 singles 480 - 580Hr, 86 dou- will make a good start for your evening.QB-3, Teatral’na bed 300Hr). PHAR6UFLKW hhhh bles 600 - 700Hr, junior suite 920 - 1040Hr, extra bed 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 95 00, fax (+380) 32 295 95 99, 150Hr). PiHA6UGKwW hhh Hotel Listing Policy [email protected], www.leopolishotel. com. 73 rooms (standart 2090 - 2310Hr, superior 2420 €1 = 11.70Hr; US$1 = 8.60Hr; £1 = 14.00Hr Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by - 6050Hr, junior suite 2750 - 2970Hr, suite 4400Hr, alphabetical order within that band. The price band etra bed 150 - 300Hr). PHR6ULGKW (1 February 2014 bank rates) refers to the rack rate for a double room.. hhhhh

40 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 41 Where to stay Where to stay extras. All the staff communicated great in English.QE-4, the budget traveller!QG-5, Akademika A. Sakharova 42, Mid-range Polischuka 78А, tel. (+380) 32 234 90 90/(+380) 32 234 tel. (+380) 67 676 28 08/(+380) 95 478 66 77, info@hotel- PERFECT CHOICE FOR 90 96, [email protected], www.notabenehotel. ekotel.lviv.ua, www.hotel-ekotel.lviv.ua. 27 rooms (4 Edem com. 59 rooms (9 singles 390 - 450Hr, 10 doubles 490 - doubles 240 - 290Hr, 4 triples 310 - 390Hr, 7 quads 90Hr, A lovely, quaint hotel near the centre, just 2 years old. It is 570Hr, 18 business 550 - 635Hr, 15 superior 590 - 650Hr, extra bed 100 - 150Hr). HAGW wheel chair accessible, a rarity in Ukraine! The 20 rooms are 4 junior suite 790 - 850Hr, 3 suite 890 - 970Hr, extra bed beautifully decorated with all extras and range from 560Hr 100Hr). PiHALKW Sonata per night for a single to 960Hr for a suite. The restaurant is Located a ways from the centre, this hotel of 177 rooms very popular, with an English menu and very reasonable Wien Hotel has just been beautifully remodeled. Rooms are reason- priced.QF-3, Horodots’ka 95A, tel. (+380) 32 240 31 05, Located in the heart of the city on Svobody avenue, Wien ably priced with a junior suite costing just 850Hr per night. [email protected], www.hotel-edem.lviv.ua. 20 offers its guests 21 comfortable rooms offering B&B stay. All rooms have all the extras. There are several conference rooms (standard 560 - 696Hr, junior suite 872Hr, suite There is a choice of standard, superior, junior suite and suite. halls and seminar rooms and the Restaurant is open 24/7. 960Hr, extra bed 150Hr). PALGKW hhh All rooms have cosy welcoming home appeal, offer enthrall- QMorozna 14, tel. (+380) 32 23 25 000/(+380) 32 23 25 BUSINESS TRIP ing views of Lviv’s lively city centre and come equipped 005, fax (+380) 32 23 25 015, [email protected], George with air-conditioning, cable TV and Internet access. A www.sonatahotel.com.ua/. 122 rooms (doubles 470Hr, Hotel George was founded by George Hoffman in 1901. The summer patio, part of the celebrated Vienna Coffehouse superior double 600Hr, junior suites 750Hr, suites structure itself is a fine example of Neo-Renaissance archi- restaurant, is one of the most popular venues in town. All 850Hr). hhh AGW tecture and was designed by famed Viennese architects. The rooms are suitable for both single and double occupancy, interior was restored in 2010 meaning that a touch of Soviet several rooms offer triple accommodation and there is one remains, i.e. the lift really takes your breath away. The stan- quad.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 97 244 43 14, Hostels dard and superior rooms are spacious, have been remod- fax (+380) 32 244 43 16, [email protected], www. Old City Hostel elled to the local taste and come standard with telephone, wienhotel.com.ua/en. 21 rooms (singles 620 - 690Hr, A great deal for backpackers and those on a limited budget. cable TV, Internet access and a refrigerator. Many rooms have doubles 690 - 760Hr, suites 920 - 990Hr, standards 620 It’s located right smack dab in the middle of the “old city”. We romantic views of Svobody prosp. and Lviv’s historic centre. - 690Hr, superiors 690 - 760Hr, junior suites 810 - 880Hr, found it warm and cosy with a very friendly English speak- Hotel «Galitska Korona» («Galician Crown») Tourist class rooms come at a bargain rate, but you’ll have to suites 920 - 1040Hr). PARLKW hhh ing staff. All rooms were modern and clean. There’s a com- Rooms from 150 uah / pers. (~ 14€/pers.) share a bathroom and shower. The service is up to standard munal kitchen and Wi-Fi and breakfast is included. There’s and English is not a problem for most of the helpful staff. a 10% discount if one books online and a discount for those CONFERENCES George’s restaurant-bar is located through the lobby. The Lviv Apartment hotel staying 3 days or longer. Open 24 hours.QBeryndy 3, app. chestnut beef and savoury pork highlight the restaurant’s Galytska Korona 7, tel. (+380) 32 294 96 44, [email protected]. reasonably priced menu and the complimentary breakfast One of the newest hotels in the city, it was opened in 2012. ua, oldcityhostel.lviv.ua. (doubles 300 - 370Hr, quads 120 buffet begins at 7:00.QC-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. (+380) Though the location isn’t prime - at the Kiltseva Road, on the - 150Hr, 6-bed dorm 110 - 130Hr, 10-bed dorm 100 - 120Hr, 32 232 62 36, fax (+380) 32 232 62 42, info@georgehotel. from Lviv to Ivano-Frankivsk / Chernivtsi / Bukovel ski resort 16-bed dorm 80 - 100Hr). AW com.ua, www.georgehotel.com.ua. 86 rooms (standard - it offers very comfortable air conditioned rooms, and is af- 840Hr, superior 890Hr). PHARKW hhh fordable for any wallet. Almost all rooms overlook the forest The Kosmonaut A great affordable “stay” not far from the old town. There Kupava belt. Hotel’s restaurant with its royal interior is probably the most special part. The menu (in English) features Ukrainian are 4, 6, & 8 bed rooms ranging from 80-120Hr per night. A A fairly new hotel a bit outside the centre with 13 lovely private room is also possible. All spoke English & were very rooms ranging from 500-1600Hr. The restaurant has to cuisine, served it a very original way. Grill dished are cooked all year round. There is also a large conference room for up to friendly. It has a cosy-family atmosphere with commu- FAMILY VACATION be seen to be believed. It is divided into several sections, nal kitchen & Wi-Fi.QB-6, Tomashivskoho 4, apt.5, tel. 200 people, a free guarded parking, a gym and sauna with a TM extravagantly styled as though being in an old Ukrainian (+380) 93 655 42 19, [email protected], www. indoor-outdoor hunting lodge. The English menu is rea- swimming pool with ice water.Qend of Zelena street (Kilt- seva Road), tel. (+380) 32 277 78 78/(+380) 96 004 51 30, thekosmonaut.com. (quads 120Hr, 6-bed dorm 100Hr, sonably priced with a daily complete menu for 55Hr. The 8-bed dorm 80Hr). LGW staff was very friendly and helpful.QE-2, Komarova 17, [email protected], www.galkorona.com. 40 rooms tel./fax (+380) 32 245 03 45, [email protected], (economy 250 - 350Hr, standard from 430Hr, junior suite www.kupavahotel.com. 13 rooms (6 standards 500 from 630Hr, suite from 730Hr). PALKW Apartment Rental - 720Hr, 4 junior suite 930 - 1100Hr, 2 suite 1600Hr). 4REST Apartments PH6LGKDCW Budget Feel the home atmosphere in the very heart of the Lion city. Nota Bene Ekotel It’s a great choice for families and independent travellers A modern yet classic Austrian hotel near the railway sta- This is another budget hotel built in time for the EURO-2012 who prefer apartments with kitchen and bathroom in their tion. (Never mind the Italian sounding name.) There are games. One can tell it really is “green” as after several flights disposal. All apartments are located in one of the best ex- TRAVELERS IN GROUPS exact replicas of the thrones of The Austro-Hungarian of high-wide spaced stairs carrying luggage one feels so amples of 19th century architecture 3-min walk from Market Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife, affectionately known much healthier then if there had been a dirty old lift. The Sq. and Opera House. Both short- and long-term lease are Conference-room (for 200 persons), business-lunch as Sissy. The originals were secretly made for them in Lviv staff all speaks great English and were very friendly and available. All properties are cosy and comfortable, with all and coffe-breaks, sporting facilities, sauna with when they came here to dedicate a Church in 1903. The helpful. The price goes from 65Hr per person, 290Hr for 1 or amenities your may need for enjoyable stay. Helpful stuff small pool of cold water, tourist information, car downstairs has a brick-classic type of design. There are 59 2, and 390Hr for a room for 3. Half of the rooms have private speaks English, Polish, Russian and German, and will give servicing station, parking you valuable pieces of advice on city exploring. QSvobody rooms with lovely beige, Austrian décor. There are 2 halls toilet and shower - the rest share communal facilities. There Reservation: +38 (032) 277-78-78 available for banquets and private functions. There is also is no breakfast included but there is a modern large kitchen prosp. 1/3, tel. (+380) 32 261 50 97/ (+380) 63 732 00 53, [email protected], www.travel.lviv.ua. cell: +38 (096) 004-51-30 a salon open from 10:00-19:00, and a 24 hour coffee shop and common eating room. There is Wi-Fi plus a computer [email protected] | www.galkorona.com with room service. There is free parking, WiFi, and all the with internet and free coffee and tea 24/7. A great deal for PAW

42 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 43 Shopping Directory

Antiques opera market Medical tourism 24-hour pharmacies AntiqUA A great variaty of foods, including While the low cost of medical services is the primary mo- Apteka #2 QD-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 242 04 23/(+380) 67 948 fresh vegetables, fruits and pastry, tivation to travel to Ukraine, some medical tourists seek QA-3, Tyktora 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 48. Open 24hrs. 48 97. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. will satisfy every gourmet. There medical care here because of the immediate availability Arsenal Salon is also a wine cellar with a range of procedures and sometimes because of the unavailabil- Tico QD-4, Pidval’na 5, tel. (+380) 32 275 30 55. Open 10:00 of wines to offer.QA-3, Svobody ity of certain procedures in their home countries. Within QC-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 87. - 20:00. prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 07, a large number of good private clinics, Ukraine provides Open 24hrs. fax (+380) 32 245 20 36, www.operapassage.com/ a wide range of high quality medical services. Dentistry, Art Vernisazh en. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAU gastroenterology, fertility treatments, orthopaedics and QB-2, Teatralna 23A, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 54. Open ophthalmology are among the most popular treatment 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. programmes. A unique stem cell treatment is also available Dentists Gothic Hall in a few clinics around our country. There are a number of Rikota Dental Centre Icons, bronze, art, porcelain, jewelry, silver dishes, an- Blumarine, John Richmond etc. Magnus is situated in the companies providing medical assistance and we highly ad- This clinic was founded in 1990 in Lviv and is proud to be cient furniture.QC-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 60 very centre of Lviv. The sight from the bistro windows on the vise you to rely on their services. one of the first private medical centres in Ukraine and one 91, [email protected], www.gothic-hall.com. Open top floor is lovely. One can see the Opera House, Wysokyj of the best in Eastern Europe. It has united the best profes- 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. zamok, streets and the old city.QA-2, Shpytal’na 1, tel. Medical Tour Ukraine sionals, specialists, and the best methods of modern den- (+380) 32 244 42 65, www.magnus-store.com. Open Medical Tour Ukraine (MTU) has united the best clinics of tistry, providing all kinds of dental treatment. All doctors 10:00 - 20:00. PAULW the country and is a reliable partner for those who con- speak English fluently. “Rikota” goes beyond normal medi- Shopping Malls sider getting high-quality medical care in Ukraine at prices cal services and offer their clients all required help with King Cross Leopolis Opera Passage about 80% lower than in Europe or the US. The company accommodation, transfers, and travel tours around Lviv King Cross is a regional shopping This modern and classy shop- will develop an individual treatment plan for you before and the region. Rikota is located only 15 minutes from the mall opened on March 26, 2010. ping mall found its place right your arrival and will provide all necessary travel and medi- city centre, and 10 minutes drive from Lviv International It is the largest mall in western in the very heart of Lviv on cal assistance. For prices, doctors and clinics, and recom- Airport.QVolodymyra Velykoho 31, tel. (+380) 32 234 02 Ukraine. The mall has a total area Svobody prosp. in a few steps mendations visit their web-site.QVolodymyra Velykoho 14/(+380) 32 234 02 15, fax (+380) 32 297 12 02, office@ of 116 546 square meters on two from the Opera Theatre. The 31, tel. (+380) 98 856 61 19, info@medicaltourukraine. rikota.com.ua, www.rikota.com.ua. Open 09:00 - 21:00, levels; including an Auchan hy- building which now hosts Opera com, www.medicaltourukraine.com. Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PAUL permarket with an area of 13 000 Passage long ago was a luxuri- m², and over 100 commercial ous hotel and during the Soviet stores, boutiques, cafes, and res- times it hosted a fashion house. taurants. The mall is bright, and spacious. One could imag- Today Opera Passage occupies 7 floors or 5500 sq. m. of ine oneself in any major city in the world! For recreation the historical building. A wide range of well-known brands there is a bowling alley, ice rink, and an Imax movie complex. could be found here which can satisfy the most hard-to- There is plenty of parking, both above and below ground. please customers. Women and men clothes, shoes, under- A taxi from the city centre costs Hr.40-50. There are some wear, accessories, jewellery, cosmetics, perfumes and kids’ city based marshrutkas to/ from the Mall but we weren’t supplies will offer their best for you. For your service there that adventurous. Future expansion of the mall is planned are also a number of restaurants and cafés, supermarket and will include an additional 130 stores, and the parking and premium wine cellar one can get high quality alcohol. area will be increased by 600 parking spaces.QStryis’ka 30, QA-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 245 20 36, www. Sokilnyky, tel. (+380) 32 242 05 80, [email protected]. operapassage.com/en. Open 10:00 - 21:00. PAL ua, www.kingcross.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Magnus Souvenirs The original building of the Kumpel Souvenir Shop “Magnus” shopping centre was This quaint gift shop also serves as the entrance to the Kum- built in 1912-1913 by the re- pel Beer Restaurant upstairs. There are hand-made crafts and nowned Polish architect Roman souvenirs as well as a wide range of home-made delicacies. Felinskyi. Architecture historians There is of course, their trade mark beer, and cheese from the believe that the model for the Carpathians to go with it. There are meats and cold cuts from architect was the structure of the region and lots of jellies and jams. QB-1, Prospect Chor- the shopping centre in Berlin on novola 2B, tel. (+380) 32 290 12 58. Open 11:00 - 00:00. Leipziger Strasse built in 1896 by the architect Alfred Messel. It is a shining example of world Opera Decor industrial-commercial architecture of the early 20th century. Heartful souvenirs and gifts, hand-made by Lviv artists or Until 2003 it was known as the Soviet style department store imported from renown craftsmen hot spots!QA-3, Svo- Zum. It is considered by some as the best shopping centre in body prosp. 27, 3 floor, www.operapassage.com/en. western Ukraine. There are many international brands rep- resented such as; Trussardi, Ferre, Apriori, Oui, Carre Blanc,

44 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 45 v

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25 St. Nicholas 1 European Business Association 1 sh K i 10А QG-2, Yakova Rappoporta 6, tel. (+380) 322 25 57 67. l Church V 35 h V 6 5 6 y u e Q m 6 8 s G-4, Stepana Bandery 6, office 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 s P о Park Latvia K e k 31 y y l e a 8 i Vysokyi Zamok l’ 29 28, fax (+380) 32 261 22 68, [email protected], www. a l’ n QViacheslava Chornovola 57, tel. (+380) 322 40 33 70/ y n n k The Church of Ancient Lviv Mu 3 ar Z o l а eba.com.ua. iars’ka y 5 St. John the Baptist Memorials 2 m (+380) 322 94 82 20, fax (+380) 322 94 82 23. 2А t 20 s 15 о 4 11 m ’ k s’ k 21 7 2 1 y 9 a 5 s’ka 8 8 k horod 2 25 16 h Lithuania e 7 o 2 Uz l 12 5 10 h 11 14 18 Z h PricewaterhouseCoopers e ernova no 17 t о 11 Kniazia M U a o t styslava d Q 5 Za H-4, Kotsubyns’koho 13/1, tel. (+380) 322 98 96 50. pl. Staryi 7 L

17 n 7 a a a ev L m Q k 4 3 E-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel. (+380) 32 242 53 05, pwc. pl. z Rynok zia Netherlands s’ n a i The Church of Benedictines k r n Pa e Sians’ka o a Rizni

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na 3 n Poland 6А Dry cleaners 4 a 4 Q Vagova I-5, Ivana Franka 110, tel. (+380) 322 97 08 61/(+380) 2 1 Bulbashki (Bubbles Laundry) 13 1 322 97 08 62. 1 Pisha 8 The Church of Our Lady V 6 QVolodymyra Velykoho 117, tel. (+380) 32 247 49 24, S of the Snow ic 2 5 h h 1 Russia py a 4 pl. Kniazia 5

n t Zvenyhorods’ka e a a prosp. N 9 y l v asy nos [email protected], bulbashki.com. Open 9:00 - h ’n Yaroslava pl. a pn vo QK-4, Levyts’koho 95, tel. (+380) 322 75 24 63/(+380) s a 2 Ivan a Kry yly Torhova Osmomysla a Go a 20:00. Closed Sun. PUV 4 nty ksym

an Natalia 18 a 3 2 322 75 05 77, www.lviv.mid.ru. D 7 a pl. M k a 49 s’ k t Z hyzhky 16 n o e 47 1 6 2 d Vicheva pl. Havry h Chysto o shkev c K

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o o 3 v rs The Dominican 96, [email protected], www.arzinger.ua. Open 09:00 - hal’chuka 35 b ’ka V a 2 k dy mens y Vir ’ 4 Cathedral a Fitness clubs i k k 3 k M 3 o National ysen 8 a L a 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 6 d 2

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Lviv Regional Lawyers Bar s m p. ik a 20А 19 a 12 2 City Hall Church Grand Sophia The Church of F QD-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 H 9 e ’ka Prosvity na 2 the Jesuit Order Ancient Lviv Rdus o QC-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 40 94. 2 tiuk a Ivana History r 16 16 24. Open 09:00 - 18:00. o

v Pidkovy 16 Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. 1 a Ethnography pl. 11 S iv and Art Crafts e Vintage H r The Weapon s prov. Kryva Lypa GE y b t d a s Museum eryn l 21 ’ 35 B y k 11 ril’ t “Arsenal” Officials t The Latin Cathedral s 8 a

Vienna Hotel ’ Teat pl. Koliivschyny S 1 ka Foreign representations h City Council k Grand Hotel ’ka 28 34 r is 37 4 y Cathedral’na pl. 9 e a v 3 a evr 12 l oy k Austria o 9 ’ tar QC-4, Rynok pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 254 60 06, fax (+380) 32 h n S v n 13 a tsi ic tyn 20 e QC-6, Shevchenka prosp. 26, tel. (+380) 322 61 20 14. 14 6 4 ha S K 3 Ro h 274 40 85, www.city-adm.lviv.ua. ost 8 rativ 17 c 9 B ova y 15 13 8 Val iu a B 19 n Belarus s k a 4 n h n n 16 3А y k 2 e 15 k 5 21 8 Ministry of Foreign Affairs a h iv V QE-3, Hors’koii 2, tel. (+380) 322 37 27 30/(+380) 322 99 s s’k 3 18 ro 2 10 alova 2А a Lychakivs’ka QD-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 18, office 118-119, tel. o a V 6 1 The Bernardine r 24 60, fax (+380) 322 99 24 60. D Mickiewicza pl. y 20 4 Halyts’ka Monastery (+380) 32 235 64 78, www.mfa.gov.ua. Drohobycha ra m Mytna pl. Belgium t 10 pl. y e d Johann Pinzel P 14 3 DE 5 K lo QD-6, Ivana Franka 14, tel. (+380) 32 260 20 80/(+380) 1 R F S O 9 e ni o y r 15 s V m e George h 32 260 01 49. n t 1/3 l a a 2 ia 3 t e Soborna n Swimming pools 36 z Ru p yn 11 a z 13 a d a an v pl. 14 Brazil a L i s N ’ 16 a S k iz o 3 koho ch 12 5 Aquapark l 37 y ta oh y 8 n z ov n o 1 1 QE-2, Cholovs’koho 2, tel. (+380) 322 97 11 51/(+380) r or h R 5 e a a V e 7 QKniahyni Olhy 114, tel. (+380) 32 263 60 55. Open t p ly 6 n o 1 o 6 k 322 97 65 08, fax (+380) 322 97 11 77. s o n m K 5 i ’ yk Pa v s 5 k k 9 P 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 20-40Hr. 2 M Swiss ekar 7 9 oh pl. vl ’ k a 9 2 s’ Canada 2 12 a ka 1 a 8 o n 32 Malaniuka o h Grand Sophia K 28 Q o a D-5, Akademika Bohomoltsya 2, ap.4, tel. (+380) 322 o 3 Lviv v a z QC-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 40 94. Art Gallery h p A 97 17 72, fax (+380) 322 97 81 54. k 1 o 11 h ka y u d T r 6 6 e S oh n m 11А k 4 a Open 08:00 - 21:30. 80Hr per hour. Children - 40Hr. t ’ a o CA ik Georgia ef 3 vs a a k B a o s 5 ch o MX ny 5 ik vy h 16 o k Ta p e n m Q a ho 17 kh B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 97 40 98/59 32 8 u 3 10 ol C m h a ’t 9 . S sya a 7 r 32, fax (+380) 322 76 94 84. 23 s IT 8 h 8 F 11 a Language courses i 10 v va h s’ udaye D c Germany a V 22 3 r a a k ha o r y The Scienti c Library 15 o 18 ok H J 2 l d v 31 ho o e n International House (Ossolineum) r r o Q 2 y 5 shy D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 322 75 S 2 h n te a F a f 3 o 4 an o r i 22 d 5 l 10 QI-4, Petrushevycha pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 90, yka rov n n v 7 71 02, fax (+380) 322 76 28 40. a I K 9 sa Nobilis 19 y k L www.ihlviv.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 14 12 ch AT le evy Hungary 6 O ena ts’k a ts 4 o o 8 er 12 h Language Fast 15 QKniahyni Olhy 116, tel. (+380) 322 64 58 22/(+380) 39 6 9 2 H 7

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и г . я l н u К v Street register Maps

Kotsylovs’koho J/K-5 Opryshkivs’ka J-1 Stara B-2, H-2 Krakivs’ka B-2/3, C-3, I-2 Ostapa Nyzhankivs’koho Staroyevreis’ka C/D-4, I-3 Krekhivs’ka G/H-1 C-5, I-3 Stavropihiys’ka C-3, I-2 Kremenets’ka E-5 Ostrohrads’kyh G-5 Staroznesens’ka K-1 ESSENTIAL Kropyvnyts’koi pl. F-3 Ostrozhs’koho K-3 Staryi Rynok pl. B-2, I-2 CIT Y GUIDES Kryva Lypa prov. A-4, H-3 Ozarkevycha F/G-3 Staryts’koho F-4 Kubiyovycha I-5 Ozheshko E-5 Stepana Bandery F-3/4, G-4 Akademika Andriya Henerala Hryhorenka pl. H-2 Kushevycha H-1 Paliia I-4 Stefanyka A-5/6, B-6, H-3/4 Sakharova F-5, G-4/5 Henerala Hrytsaia J/K-5 Kvitky-Osnovianenka F-2 Panchyshna K-5 Stets’ka C-6, I-4 Akademika Bohomol’tsia Henerala Tarnavs’koho Kvitneva F-5 Panteleymona Kulisha Storozhenka E-2 D-5/6, I-3 J-4/5, I-5 Kyivs’ka F-4 A-1/2, H-1/2 Strimka I-1 Akademika Filatova J-3 Henerala Yunakieva E-1/2 Kyryla i Mefodiia H/I-4 Paparivka I/J-1 Stryis’ka G/I-5 Akademika Hnatiuka Henerala Zasiad’ka G-5 Lazneva A-2, H-2 Parfanovychiv J-3 Students’ka J/K-5 A-3/4, H-2/3 Heroiv UPA E/F-4 Lemkivs’ka H-1 Parkova I-5 Sviatoho Yura pl. G-3 Akademika Kravchuka J-3 Hertsena C-6, I-4 Leontovycha G-2 Pasternaka E-4 Svobody prosp. H-2/3 Akademika Krypiakevycha Hlibova H-4 Lesi Ukrainky B/D-3, I-2 Pavla Kovzhuna B-5/6, I-3 Sydora Holubovycha F-3 Lesia Kurbasa A-3/4, H-2 Pavlyka J-4 Tamans’ka H-2 в тво муэ мобiльному K-3 Hlyboka F/G-4 Akademika Liul’ky A-1, H-1 Holovats’koho F-3 Levandivs’ka E-1 Pekars’ka D-5, I/J-3, J/K-4 Tatars’ka H/I-1 Akademika Pavlova J-4 Hopsova E-5 Levyts’koho D-6, I/K-4 Peremys’ka E-5 Teatral’na B-2/4, H-2, I-3 Akademika Romana Kuchera Horodots’ka Liainberha H-2 Pereyaslavs’ka J-5 Tekhnichna G-3 G-2 A/B-2, A-3, E/G-3, G/H-2 Lips’ka E-4 Perova F-3 Tershakivtsiv J-3/4 Akademika Serhiya Horodyns’kyh E-5 Lisna K-2/3 Petra Doroshenka Teslenka H-1 Yefremova E-5, F-4 Hrabovs’koho G/H-4 Litnia H-5 A-4/5, B-4, G/H-3 Tobilevycha F-4 Albans’ka K-5 Hrebinky H-2 Lobachevs’koho I-1 Pid Dubom H-1 Tomashivs’koho B-6, H-3 Anatoliya Vakhnianyna K-5 Hrets’ka H-5 Lukasha G-5 Pidval’na D-3/4, I-2/3 Torhova pl. A-2, H-2 Aral’s’ka K-5 Hryhorovycha B-6, I-3/4 Luts’koho E-1/2 Pidmurna B-2, H-2 Tsekhova H-1 Arkhitektors’ka G-3/4 Hutsul’s’ka J-2 L’va Tolstoho I/J-5 Pidzamche I-1 Tugan-Baranovs’koho J-3/4 Azovs’ka K-5 Hvardiys’ka G-4/5 Lychakivs’ka I/K-3 Pisha C-2, I-2 Turets’ka H-5 Bankivs’ka A-4, B-4/5, H-3 Illariona Sventsits’koho I-5 Lypneva pl. E-4 Piskova K-3 Turians’koho F-1 Barvins’kyh J-2 Ivana Bohuna G-4 Lysenka D-3, I/K-2 Pochaivs’ka K-1 Tutunnykiv I-5 Baturyns’ka G-1 Ivana Fedorova Lystopadovoho Chynu G/H-3 Pogulianka K-5 Tykha B-5, H-3 Bazarna G-1/2 C-3/4, D-4, I-2/3 Lyzhvjiars’ka H-5 Pokhyla G-5 Tyktora A-3, H-2 Beryndy B/C-4, H/I-3 Ivana Franka D-5/6, I-3/4 M. Slobodivny J-4 Polischuka E-4 Ulasa Samchuka I-5 Bibliotechna G-3/4 Ivana Franka pl. I-5 Magazynova F-2 Politekhnichna G-4 Universytets’ka H-3 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Ivana Gonty B/C-2, I-2 Maiera Balabana A-2, H-2 Popovycha B-6, H/I-4 Ustyianovycha G-3 B-1/2, H/J-1, H/I-2 Ivana Gorbachevs’koho F-5 Maksyma Kryvonosa Povstans’ka E-5 Uzhhorods’ka C/D-1, I-2 Bohdana Lepkoho I-2/3 Ivana Karpyntsia G-5 D-2, I/J-2 Profesors’ka G-3/4 Vagova A-2, H-2 Boi-Zelens’koho G-5 Ivana Levyns’koho F-4 Maksyma Zalizniaka E-4 Prosvity D-4, I-3, J-2 Valova C/D-4, I-3 Bolhars’ka H-5 Ivana Ohiyenka G-2/3 Mala J/K-3 Pryrodna F-5 Vasylevycha J-4 Borysa Romanyts’koho G-4 Ivana Pidkovy pl. B-4, H-3 Malaniuka pl. B-5, H-3 Pyl’nykars’ka B-1, C-2, I-2 Vasylkivs’koho E-4 Brativ Mikhnovs’kyh F-2/3 Ivana Rutkovycha I-5 Marka Vovchka F-2/3 Repina K-3 Venetsianova H-4 Brativ Rohatyntsiv C/D-4, I-3 Ivana Sharanevycha E/F-2 Markiyana Shashkevycha pl. Rizni pl. A-2, H-2 Verkhats’koho J-3 Brativ Tymoshenkiv G-4 Johara Dudaieva B/C-6, H/I-3 G-4 Rodyny Krushel’nyts’kyh Vernyhory F-2/3 Briulova G-4 Josypa Slipoho J-4/5 Martovycha B/C-6, I-4 J/K-5 Vesela B-1, H-1/2 Brovarna G-2 Kalicha Hora A/B-6, H-4 Mateika G-3 Romanchuka J-4 Veteraniv G-1 Cathedral’na pl. B/C-4, I-3 Kameniariv G-3 Mechnikova K-3/4 Rudans’koho B/C-5, I-3 Viacheslava Chornovola prosp. Chaikovs’koho Karaims’ka I-1 Medova A/B-1, H-1 Rus’ka C/D-4, I-2/3 A-1/2, H-1/2 A/B-6, B/C-5, H/I-3 Karmaluka K-3 Mel’nyka E/F-4 Rusovyh F-4 Vicheva C-2, I-2 Chekhova J-3 Karpats’ka J-4/5 Mendeleeva H/I-4 Rybna C-2, I-2 Vicheva pl. B-3, H-2 Chereshneva I-4 Karpins’koho F-4, G-3 Mentsyns’koho H-2 Ryleieva G-3 Virmens’ka B/C-3, H/I-2 Chernihivs’ka J-3 Kastelivka F-5, G-4 Meretyna Bernarda F-3 Ryl’s’koho J-4 Vodohinna J-5 Chernivets’ka E-3 Katliars’ka H-2 Metrolohichna F-5 Rymlianyna D-5, I-3 Volodymyra Antonovycha Chervona F-5 Kerchens’ka K-5 Mickiewicza B-5, I-3 Rynok pl. C-3/4, I-2/3 E-4/5, F-4 Cholovs’koho E-2 Kharkivs’ka K-2/3 Modesta Sosenka F-1 S. Ludkevycha I-5 Volodymyra Ivasuka J-4/5 Danyla Halyts’koho pl. C-2, I-2 Khimichna H-1 Morozenka F-2 Sadovs’koho K-3 Volodymyra Korolenka J-2/3 Dekarta F-3 Kholodnoho K-5 Morshyns’ka F-5 Saksahans’koho C-6, I-4 Volodymyra Vynnychenka Denysa Lukjianovycha G-4 Khorvats’ka G-2 Muliars’ka A/B-1, H-2 Samiylenka I/J-4 D-2/5, I-2/3 Det’ka B-1/2, H-1 Khotyns’ka F-3 Muravy G/H-3 Sarjiana E-4 Voloschaka H/I-5 Dmytra Bortnians’koho E/F-2 Khudozhnia E-4 Museina pl. C-3, I-2 Schekavyts’ka E-2 Voloshyna C-6, I-3/4 Dmytra Danilyshyna A-2, H-2 Kleparivs’ka G-1/2 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho I-4 Schepkina G-3 Volos’ka I-5 Dmytra Dontsova J-3 Klionovycha D-6, I-3 Mykhaila Verbyts’koho G-4 Sechenova F-3 Vuz’ka J-3 Dmytra Huni F-1 Kniahyni Ol’hy F-5 Mykhaila Yatskoho F-1 Sels’kyh E-4/5 Viytovycha F-3 Dmytra Vitovs’koho Kniazha J-2 Mykhal’chuka A-3, H-2 Serbs’ka C-4, I-3 Vyshens’koho K-3 G/H-4, H/I-5 Kniazia Leva C-2, I-2 Myklukho-Maklaia J-2 Severy I-5 Vyshyvanoho pl. I-5 Dniprovs’ka J-4/5 Kniazia Mstyslava Udaloho Mykoly Voronoho B-5, H/I-3 Sheptyts’kyh F-3 Vysokyi Zamok D-1, I/J-2 Dolyns’koho H/I-1 A/B-2, H-2 Mykoly Zerova E-4 Shevchenka E-1, F/G2 Yakova Rappoporta G-2 Dorosha J-4 Kniazia Romana C-5/6, I-3 Mytna pl. D-5, I-3 Shevchenka prosp. Yapons’ka F-4 Drahomanova C-6, H/I-4 Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla Mytropolyta Andriya F-3 C-5/6, I-3/4 Yaroslava Mudroho F-2/3 Drohobycha A-4/5, H-3 pl. B-2, H-2 Mytropolyta Angelovycha F-3 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 Yaroslava Prstaka G-2 Drukars’ka C-3, I-2 Kniazya Sviatoslava pl. F-2 Mytropolyta Lepkivs’koho Shkil’na I-1 Yasna E-2 Dvortsova pl. E-3 Kobylians’koi I-4 K-2 Sholom-Aleikhema H-2 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 Dzherel’na H-1/2 Kokorudza F-4 Nalyvaika A-3, H-2 Shopena H-2 Yeroshenka E/F-1 Dzherel’na H-1 Kol’bera G-4 Nasypna C-2, I-2 Shota Rustavelli I-4/5 Yeroshenka G-1 Dzyndry H-5 Kolessy H-4 Nechuia-Levyts’koho G-4 Shpytal’na H-2 Yevgena Konoval’tsya Fed’kovycha E-3/4 Koliivschyny pl. D-4, I-3 Nekrasova J/K-3 Shukhevycha C/D-6, I-3 E-4/5, F-4 Ferentza Lizta B-5, H-3 Komarova E/F-2 Nizhyns’ka K-3 Shymzeriv K-4 Yevgena Petrushevycha I-4 Furmans’ka A-3, H-2 Komaryntsia G-5 Novakivs’koho G-3 Sians’ka B-2, H-2 Zakharievycha F-4 Galileia K-4 Konopnyts’koi I-4 Novyi Svit F/G-4 Sichovykh Stril’tsiv A-4, H-3 Zaklyns’kyh K-1 Gazova A-1, H-1 Konotops’ka E-5 Nyz’kyi Zamok B-3, H-2 Simsotrichchia H-1 Zaliznychna E-2/3 Glynky G-5 Kooperatyvna F-2/3 Odes’ka F-3 Skel’na I-4 Zamarstynivs’ka B-1, H-1 Gogolia G-3 Kopernyka Ohirkova I-1 Skliana F-1/2 Zamknena G-3 Gors’koii E-3/4 A-5/6, B-5, G/H-4, H/I-3 Oleksandra Arkhypenka I-4/5 Skovorody K-3 Zamkova C/D-1, D-2, I-1 Grunval’ds’ka F-4 Korduby J/K-1 Oleksandra Fredra C-6, I-3/4 Slovats’koho A-5, H-3 Zan’kovets’koi J-3 Haidamats’ka I-1 Korniakta B-3, H/I-2 Oleksandra Konys’koho I/J-4 Smal’-Stots’koho E-4 Zaryts’kyh H/I-5 Halyts’ka C-4, I-3 Koroliova J-5 Oleksandra Olesia K-5 Smerekova B/C-1, I-1 Zdorovjia F-4 Halyts’ka pl. C-4, I-3 Korotka E/F-3 Oleksy Dovbusha J-2 Smol’s’koho J-3 Zelena I/J-4, J/K-5 Hanny Barvinok E/F-5 Kortumivka G-2 Oleny Pchilky I-4 Snopkivs’ka I-5 Zernova A-2, H-2 Hartmana Vitvera J-3 Kostiushka A-4, H-3 Oleny Stepanivny E/F-2 Soborna pl. D-5, I-3 Zhovkivs’ka I-1 Havryshkevycha C-3, I-2 Kostomarova I-4 Oleny Telihy K-5 Solodova K-3 Zhukovs’koho F-4 Henerala Chuprynky Kotliarevs’koho F/G-4 Olhy Basarab J-5 Solomii Krushel’nyts’koi Zhyzhky B-2/3, H/I-2 E/F-5, F/G-4 Kotliars’ka A-2, H-2 Ol’zhycha K-5 G/H-3 Zolota F-1, G-2 Henerala Hrekova G-1 Kotsubyns’koho H-4/5 Opil’s’koho F-4 Sorokhteya E-1 Zvenyhorods’ka pl. B-2, I-2 Mobile Guide® ® 50 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket Мобiльний Довiдник February - March 2014 51