(OTELS 2ESTAURANTS #AFÅS .IGHTLIFE 3IGHTSEEING %VENTS -APS ,6)6 $ECEMBER *ANUARY "UKOVEL Ukraine’s top-notch ski resort ʋ )N9OUR(ANDS www.inyourpocket.com Updated, the only comprehensive guide to all Lviv eateries, clubs, sights and much more 9 772076 230506 CONTENTS 3 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents Christmas fair in Lviv The Basics 5 Arriving, Getting around, Money and more Bukovel 38 Ukraine’s top-notch ski resort Culture & Events 9 Culture institutions and Events Health 39 Dentists, Clinics & Pharmacies Where to stay 12 A fine selection of places to spent the night Shopping 40 Where to go shopping in Lviv Dining & Nightlife Restaurants 16 Business directory 41 Cafés 25 Banks, Lawyers, Foreign representatives Nightlife 27 Bars, pubs and clubs Maps Street register 42 What to see Old town map 43 Essential Lviv 32 City map 44 Museums 34 Index 46 lviv.inyourpocket.com December 2013–January 2014 4 FOREWORD Lviv is probably the most tourist friendly city in Ukraine! Here hospitality is not only a local tradition, but it is the Publisher main business of the whole city. The local authorities Neolitas-KIS Ltd. and inhabitants seem to go out of their way to make Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Ukraine, your stay in Lviv unforgettable. tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 Lviv is a city with much to offer, a city of unique old- [email protected] Registration No. KB 14928-3900P/ world charm. It is the scene of an accident where Published 6 times per year. 60,000 copies annualy. East broadsided West, but left only a dent. With its remarkably preserved Renaissance architecture, Company Office & Accounts gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches, Lviv PROMOVSKI is a Ukrainian city with a European soul. Rybna 3/19A, Lviv 79019, Ukraine tel./fax: (+380) 32 275 06 01, (+380) 67 672 44 97 Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and Editorial best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova Ukraine’s Mecca – there are magnificent and inspiring Research Yuliya Kanyuka, Olena Patyka churches and cathedrals on just about every corner. Layout & Design KIS Ltd. Although Lvivians have the reputation as church-goers, Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket they haven’t forgotten how to party. Pubs, clubs, Cover photo Ta r a s D z e d z e y restaurants and coffee houses are plentiful, and it’s Sales & Circulation usually a local who’s stoking the celebration into the Director: Andrii Cherniavskyi early morning hours. Kyiv: Natasha Martisova Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. Founded Lviv: Yuliya Kanyuka, Olena Patyka, Solomiya Hnativ by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his son Lev in Odesa: Liubov Rogatinska 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Copyright notice Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Nazi Germany Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003- and the Soviet Union. The dubious Hitler-Stalin Pact of 2013. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. 1939 granted control of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This No part of this publication may be reproduced in any occupation spurred numerous resistance movements form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, in the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated without written permission from the publisher and and controversial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was finally under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, seized. Lviv continues to be a shining example of Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). independence, and Ukraine owes much of its con- Maps temporary identity to the stream of patriotism which © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2013 emanates from this radical western gem. © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2013 Vitayemo u Lvovi! Welcome to Lviv! Europe In Your Pocket It’s now 21 years since we published Northern the first In Your Pocket guide - to Ireland Estonia Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest Ireland Russia Latvia publisher of locally produced city Lithuania guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent Belarus (with Batumi, in Georgia, the latest Netherlands Poland city to be pocketed) and the number Germany Ukraine of concise, witty, well-written and Belgium Czech downright indispensable In Your Republic Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also Austria publish an iPhone app, including Switzerland Slovenia Romania Georgia Croatia more than 40 guides, which can Italy be downloaded for free from the Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ Montenegro Kosovo by name. FYR Macedonia Albania Greece To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com ARRIVING IN LVIV 5 By plane When travellers referred to the Lviv International Airport it was usually in the context of either a twisted joke or a terrifying tale. Time changes; and in April 2012 Lviv got the newly renovated Terminal. All in glass and steel in 14km west of the city centre, Danylo Halytskyi Lviv International became much better and pleasant. Getting around the city’s gateway will not take you any efforts, signs both in English and Ukrainian show the way and nothing here differs from most of fine European airports. Tourist information booth is located on the ground floor, with an information desk, customs, telephones, lost and found, car rental booths, first aid, 24 hour police services, waiting rooms, ATMs and a currency exchange. There are cafés in both check-in and departing zones and airline ticket- ing booths can also be found in the terminal. Getting to town Taxis stands outside the main entrance of the aiport. The 70-80Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for Ukraine, but the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1,25Hr) or marshrutka 48 (2Hr). It’s about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 minutes by trolleybus. Danylo Halytskyi Lviv International Airport Lubyns’ka 168, tel. (+380) 32 229 81 12, www.lwo. aero. Lost & Found tel. (+380) 32 229 83 19. By bus All international buses arrive at Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal; however, some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, may make a first stop in centre not far from Shevchenka prosp. Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket offices and sched- ules are located on the ground floor. Upstairs you’ll find a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To find the left-luggage office, head downstairs from the central hall. Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far from the city centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option; depending on your haggling skills, fares are avail- able for as little as 50Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus Lviv Holovnyi Train Station F-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel. No. 5 to Shota Rustaveli Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1,25Hr. (+380) 32 748 20 68. Though it may be cramped, marshrutkas No. 3A, 9, 25 shuttle passengers to centre for 2Hr. Bus No. 18 connects Stryis’kyi Car rental Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Train Station. Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal Stryis’ka 109, tel. (+380) 32 the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are 294 98 17. =Open 24Hrs. 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads (there is 110 km/h speed limit at Kyiv-Odesa road) and 130 on highways. A zero By train tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine. With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down trains Avis Pidstryhacha 6, tel. (+380) 67 230 33 49, lviv@avis. and suspicious glances, arriving to Lviv’s central rail station com.ua, www.avis.com.ua. =Open 07:00 - 22:00. can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy movie. Once Europcar Lypyns’koho 36, tel. (+380) 32 294 89 94, lviv@ the nostalgia has worn off, exit the platforms by proceeding autodrive.com.ua, www.europcar.ua. Also at Lviv Interna- down the stairs then follow the exit signs to the station’s halls. tional Airport, tel. 0 32 229 87 87. =Open 09:00 - 18:00. A currency exchange (обмін валют), ticketing booths (каса) and Hertz Rent a Car Lubyns’ka 168A, Lviv International schedules are located in the main hall. There is also a floor plan Airport, tel. (+380) 32 297 00 52, [email protected], www. displayed of services if you happen to get disoriented. Express hertz.ua. =Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.# Bank with Western Union, telephones and resting hall (зал) No. 1 Sixt rent a car Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Air- are located in the left wing. There are three left luggage (Камера port, tel. (+380) 32 255 61 01, www.sixt.ua. =Open зберігання) areas/lockers available in the right wing. No. 1 is 09:00 - 18:00. the largest and is the only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr Ta x i per day. Police services are also located in the right wing. Toilets are scattered throughout the building. The easiest to find are In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on located in the corridors leading to the platforms. any street if you don’t believe us.