Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Lviv Summer 2012 The city of festivals Summer events schedule Out of Town Fascinating castles of Lviv Region № 11 20 www.inyourpocket.com Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years 9 772076 230506 CONTENTS BEST GROCERY SHOPPING DOWNTOWN 9:00- 24:00 NAJLEPSZY SKLEP SPOŻYWCZY W MIEŚCIE CONTENTS 3 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents Svobody prospekt The Basics 6 Out of town 48 Arriving, Getting Around, Money and more Lviv’s Region Castles Culture & Events 10 Mail & Phones 50 Culture institutions & Events Shopping 51 Where to stay 14 Where to go shopping in Lviv A fine selection of places to spent the night Lifestyle directory 52 Dining & Nightlife Lifestyle, Health & Sports Restaurants 24 Cafés 35 Business directory 53 Nightlife 38 Banks, Lawyers, Foreign representatives Bars, pubs and clubs Maps What to see Old town map 55 Essential Lviv 43 City map 56 Museums 46 Index 59 lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 4 FOREWORD BASICS The party is over... The great EURO 2012 celebra- tion has come to the end, but we still hear in our The World of In Your Pocket ears dozens of different languages, we still remem- ber thousands of nice and kind smiles. We want Northern Estonia to thank every team, every fan, and everyone who Ireland made this summer incredible and unforgettable! Russia Ireland Latvia But if you do not like football, or just could not come Lithuania to Lviv in June 2012; Lviv still has a lot to offer! This is a city of unique old-world charm; the scene of an accident where East broadsided West, but left Belarus Netherlands only a dent. With its remarkably preserved Renais- Poland sance architecture, gently bending streets and Germany hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian city with a Belgium Ukraine Czech European soul. Republic Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and Austria best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Switzerland Slovenia Romania Ukraine’s Mecca - there are magnificent and inspir- Croatia Italy ing churches and cathedrals on just about every Bosnia Serbia corner. Although Lvivians have the reputation as Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo church-goers, they haven’t forgotten how to party. FYR Macedonia Pubs, clubs, restaurants and coffee houses are Albania plentiful, and it’s usually a local who’s stoking the Greece celebration into the early morning hours. Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Founded by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. his son Lev in 1256, the city has had many rulers Since then, we have grown to become the largest including Poland, Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. The We now cover more than 75 cities across the dubious Hitler–Stalin Pact of 1939 granted control continent (with more on the way) and the number of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This occupation spurred of In Your Pocket guides published each year is numerous resistance movements in the 1940s and approaching an amazing five million. 50s including the much celebrated and controver- Always an innovative publisher, we have just sial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the fall of the launched a new version of our iPhone app, which Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was finally seized. can now be downloaded for free from the AppS- Lviv continues to be a shining example of independ- tore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. ence, and Ukraine owes much of its contemporary To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your identity to the stream of patriotism which emanates Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ from this radical western gem. inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ Vitayemo u Lvovi! Welcome to Lviv! inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket). Editorial Copyright notice Editors & Writers Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2012. All rights reserved. No part ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova of this publication may be reproduced Research Yuliya Kanyuka in any form, except brief extracts for Publisher Layout & Design the purpose of review, without written Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket Cover photo by Marian Striltsiv, Pocket is used under license from UAB In Ukraine, tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, [email protected] LUFA photoagency Vilnius, Lithuania). Registration No. KB 14928-3900P © Neolitas-KIS Sales & Circulation Editor’s note General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky The editorial content of In Your Pocket Company Office & Accounts Sales & Circulation guides is independent from paid-for PROMOVSKI Kyiv Natasha Martisova, Anna Striletska advertising. Sponsored listings are Doroshenka 8, Lviv 79001, Ukraine Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, Olena Patyka clearly marked as such. We welcome all tel./fax: (+380) 32 272 56 67 Odesa Liubov Rogatinska readers’ comments and suggestions. (+380) 67 672 44 97 We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the Printed by Express-Poligraph, Kyiv Maps time of going to press and assume no Published 4 times per year. © DNVP Kartographia, 2012 responsibility for changes and errors. 60,000 copies annualy. © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2012 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com BASICS 5 lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 6 ARRIVING IN LVIV GETTING AROUND By plane Lviv, Lvov, Lwów When travellers referred to the Lviv International Airport it was usually in the context of either a twisted joke or a terrify- Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names. ing tale. Time changes; and in April 2012 Lviv got the newly The city was known as Lwów when the Poles ruled, the renovated Terminal. 14km west of the city centre, Danylo Austro-Hungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish Halytskyi Lviv International is still under some works, but residents referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many lan- arriving there became much easier and pleasant. Getting guages have their own spelling and pronunciation. This around the city’s gateway will not take you any efforts, signs is the case with ‘Lviv’ (Ukrainian) and ‘Lvov’ (Russian). both in English and Ukrainian show the way and nothing here As the city immerged to become the centre of Ukrain- differs from most of fine European airports. Tourist informa- ian language and culture in the 1990s, the Ukrainian tion booth is located on the ground floor, with an information version became increasingly common and useful, i.e. desk, customs, telephones, lost and found, car rental booths, using ‘Lviv’ while searching the Internet will definitely first aid, 24 hour police services, waiting rooms, news stands result in more hits. and a bank. Cafés and airline ticketing booths can also be found in this terminal. A currency exchange (обмін валют), ticketing booths Getting to town Taxis stands outside the main entrance of (каса) and schedules are located in the main hall. There is the aiport. The 100Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for also a floor plan displayed of services if you happen to get Ukraine, but the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1,25Hr) or disoriented. Express Bank with Western Union, telephones marshrutka 48 (2Hr). It’s about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 and resting hall (зал) No. 1 are located in the left wing. There minutes by trolleybus. are three left luggage (Камера зберігання) areas/lockers Lviv International Airport Lubyns’ka 168, tel. (+380) available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the 32 229 81 12, www.airport.lviv.ua. Lost & Found tel. only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the (+380) 32 229 83 19. size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police services are also located in the right wing. Toilets are scat- By bus tered throughout the building. The easiest to find are located in the corridors leading to the platforms. All international buses arrive at Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal; how- A gauntlet of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. ever, some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, A trip to centre should cost around 40Hr and Lviv’s cabbies may make a first stop in centre not far from Shevchenka are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other prosp. Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies is offices and schedules are located on the ground floor. Upstairs bustling with buses and mini-buses, most of which connect to you’ll find a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To find outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best public transport the left-luggage office, head downstairs from the central hall. option is tram No. 1, which heads directly to city centre. The Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far from the city same tram with a different name, No. 9, takes passengers centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option; depending on in the opposite direction from centre to the train station. your haggling skills, fares are available for as little as 50Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus No. 5 to Shota Rustaveli Lviv Holovnyi Train Station F-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel. Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1,25Hr.