Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Lviv

Summer 2012

The city of festivals Summer events schedule Out of Town Fascinating castles of Lviv Region

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ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents Svobody prospekt The Basics 6 Out of town 48 Arriving, Getting Around, Money and more Lviv’s Region Castles

Culture & Events 10 Mail & Phones 50 Culture institutions & Events Shopping 51 Where to stay 14 Where to go shopping in Lviv A fine selection of places to spent the night Lifestyle directory 52 Dining & Nightlife Lifestyle, Health & Sports Restaurants 24 Cafés 35 Business directory 53 Nightlife 38 Banks, Lawyers, Foreign representatives Bars, pubs and clubs Maps What to see Old town map 55 Essential Lviv 43 City map 56 Museums 46 Index 59

lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 4 Foreword Basics

The party is over... The great EURO 2012 celebra- tion has come to the end, but we still hear in our The World of In Your Pocket ears dozens of different languages, we still remem- ber thousands of nice and kind smiles. We want Northern Estonia to thank every team, every fan, and everyone who Ireland made this summer incredible and unforgettable! Russia Ireland Latvia But if you do not like football, or just could not come Lithuania to Lviv in June 2012; Lviv still has a lot to offer! This is a city of unique old-world charm; the scene of an accident where East broadsided West, but left Belarus Netherlands only a dent. With its remarkably preserved Renais- Poland sance architecture, gently bending streets and Germany hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian city with a Belgium Ukraine Czech European soul. Republic Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and Austria best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Switzerland Slovenia Romania Ukraine’s Mecca - there are magnificent and inspir- Croatia Italy ing churches and cathedrals on just about every Bosnia Serbia corner. Although Lvivians have the reputation as Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo church-goers, they haven’t forgotten how to party. FYR Macedonia Pubs, clubs, restaurants and coffee houses are Albania plentiful, and it’s usually a local who’s stoking the Greece celebration into the early morning hours. Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Founded by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. his son Lev in 1256, the city has had many rulers Since then, we have grown to become the largest including Poland, Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. The We now cover more than 75 cities across the dubious Hitler–Stalin Pact of 1939 granted control continent (with more on the way) and the number of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This occupation spurred of In Your Pocket guides published each year is numerous resistance movements in the 1940s and approaching an amazing five million. 50s including the much celebrated and controver- Always an innovative publisher, we have just sial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the fall of the launched a new version of our iPhone app, which Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was finally seized. can now be downloaded for free from the AppS- Lviv continues to be a shining example of independ- tore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. ence, and Ukraine owes much of its contemporary To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your identity to the stream of patriotism which emanates Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ from this radical western gem. inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ Vitayemo u Lvovi! Welcome to Lviv! inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice Editors & Writers Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2012. All rights reserved. No part ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova of this publication may be reproduced Research Yuliya Kanyuka in any form, except brief extracts for Publisher Layout & Design the purpose of review, without written Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket Cover photo by Marian Striltsiv, Pocket is used under license from UAB In Ukraine, tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, [email protected] LUFA photoagency Vilnius, Lithuania). Registration No. KB 14928-3900P © Neolitas-KIS Sales & Circulation Editor’s note General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky The editorial content of In Your Pocket Company Office & Accounts Sales & Circulation guides is independent from paid-for PROMOVSKI Kyiv Natasha Martisova, Anna Striletska advertising. Sponsored listings are Doroshenka 8, Lviv 79001, Ukraine Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, Olena Patyka clearly marked as such. We welcome all tel./fax: (+380) 32 272 56 67 Odesa Liubov Rogatinska readers’ comments and suggestions. (+380) 67 672 44 97 We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the Printed by Express-Poligraph, Kyiv Maps time of going to press and assume no Published 4 times per year. © DNVP Kartographia, 2012 responsibility for changes and errors. 60,000 copies annualy. © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2012

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Basics 5

lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 6 Arriving in lviv Getting around

By plane Lviv, Lvov, Lwów When travellers referred to the Lviv International Airport it was usually in the context of either a twisted joke or a terrify- Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names. ing tale. Time changes; and in April 2012 Lviv got the newly The city was known as Lwów when the Poles ruled, the renovated Terminal. 14km west of the city centre, Danylo Austro-Hungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish Halytskyi Lviv International is still under some works, but residents referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many lan- arriving there became much easier and pleasant. Getting guages have their own spelling and pronunciation. This around the city’s gateway will not take you any efforts, signs is the case with ‘Lviv’ (Ukrainian) and ‘Lvov’ (Russian). both in English and Ukrainian show the way and nothing here As the city immerged to become the centre of Ukrain- differs from most of fine European airports. Tourist informa- ian language and culture in the 1990s, the Ukrainian tion booth is located on the ground floor, with an information version became increasingly common and useful, i.e. desk, customs, telephones, lost and found, car rental booths, using ‘Lviv’ while searching the Internet will definitely first aid, 24 hour police services, waiting rooms, news stands result in more hits. and a bank. Cafés and airline ticketing booths can also be found in this terminal. A currency exchange (обмін валют), ticketing booths Getting to town Taxis stands outside the main entrance of (каса) and schedules are located in the main hall. There is the aiport. The 100Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for also a floor plan displayed of services if you happen to get Ukraine, but the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1,25Hr) or disoriented. Express Bank with Western Union, telephones marshrutka 48 (2Hr). It’s about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 and resting hall (зал) No. 1 are located in the left wing. There minutes by trolleybus. are three left luggage (Камера зберігання) areas/lockers Lviv International Airport Lubyns’ka 168, tel. (+380) available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the 32 229 81 12, www.airport.lviv.ua. Lost & Found tel. only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the (+380) 32 229 83 19. size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police services are also located in the right wing. Toilets are scat- By bus tered throughout the building. The easiest to find are located in the corridors leading to the platforms. All international buses arrive at Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal; how- A gauntlet of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. ever, some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, A trip to centre should cost around 40Hr and Lviv’s cabbies may make a first stop in centre not far from Shevchenka are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other prosp. Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies is offices and schedules are located on the ground floor. Upstairs bustling with buses and mini-buses, most of which connect to you’ll find a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To find outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best public transport the left-luggage office, head downstairs from the central hall. option is tram No. 1, which heads directly to city centre. The Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far from the city same tram with a different name, No. 9, takes passengers centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option; depending on in the opposite direction from centre to the train station. your haggling skills, fares are available for as little as 50Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus No. 5 to Shota Rustaveli Lviv Holovnyi Train Station F-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel. Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1,25Hr. Though it may be (+380) 32 748 20 68. cramped, marshrutkas No. 3A, 9, 25 shuttle passengers to centre for 2Hr. Bus No. 18 connects Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Train Station. Tourist Information Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal Stryis’ka 109, tel. (+380) 32 Tourist Information Cen- 294 98 17. QOpen 24Hrs. Tourist tre C-3, Ploscha Rynok 1, information tel./fax (+380) 32 254 By train centre 60 79, www.touristinfo. lviv.ua, [email protected]. With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down ua. Information centre provides information in English, trains and suspicious glances, arriving to Lviv’s central German, Italian, Czech, Polish, Ukrainian and Russian. rail station can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy Services: city information, guidebooks, travel maps, movie. Once the nostalgia has worn off, exit the platforms magazines. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, by proceeding down the stairs then follow the exit signs to Sun 10:00 - 17:00. the station’s halls.

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Arriving in lviv Getting around 7

Airline ticket offices Ta x i s Aerosvit Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on (+380) 322 29 80 24, [email protected], www.aerosvit. any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis don’t exist, so com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lunch time 13:00-14:00. you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners Austrian Airlines Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure Airport, tel./fax (+380) 32 297 60 90, tel. (+380) 32 to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the 297 62 91, www.aua.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by Carpatair Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. (+380) 32 297 62 66/(+380) 32 297 61 11, lviv@car- patair.com, www.carpatair.com. QOpen 05:00 - 17:00. Comfort Taxi tel. (+380) 32 243 42 43. Closed Sun. Lunch break 12:00 - 13:00. Econom Taxi tel. (+380) 32 243 08 08. LOT Polish Airlines A-4, Sichovych Striltsiv 5, tel. Express tel. (+380) 32 244 60 86. (+380) 32 297 11 55/(+380) 32 297 50 57, www.lot. com. Also at Lviv International Airport (open 11:30 - 15:30, Navigator tel. (+380) 32 242 09 72. Sat, Sun 12:30 - 15:30), tel. 69 29 85. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00. Radio Taxi tel. (+380) 67 908 10 81. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine International Airlines Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 322 98 69 Visas 77, [email protected], www.flyuia.com. Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, Mongolia, the Car rental U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads (there is 110 km/h a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or speed limit at Kyiv-Odesa road) and 130 on highways. A zero consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine. as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type Avis Pidstrygacha 6, (+380) 67 230 33 49, lviv@avis. and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only com.ua, www.avis.com.ua. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. LA handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Europcar Lypyns’koho 36, tel. (+380) 32 294 89 94, lviv@ Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the autodrive.com.ua, www.europcar.ua. Also at Lviv Interna- exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must tional Airport, tel. 0 32 229 87 87. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration Hertz Rent a Car Lubyns’ka 168A, Lviv International card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to Airport, Trustan Hotel, tel. (+380) 32 297 00 52, lviv@ register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid hertz.ua, www.hertz.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional Sat, Sun. PAL information, call (+380) 32 275 24 63. Sixt rent a car Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, An- Airport, tel. (+380) 32 255 61 01, www.sixt.ua. dorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. AL 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we Public Transport can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state Almost all Lviv sights and places of interest are within easy travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of medical insurance, and must register their passports with lo- people. However there is a wide web of trolleybuses (electric cal police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually buses), trams (streetcars), buses, microbuses and minivans, willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. which sometimes (especially in rush hours) are overcrowded. For more information, call (+380) 322 37 27 30. Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t inhale too deeply but Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children. Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter Trolleybuses and trams are favoured by schoolchildren, the Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors into everyday Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can be purchased for 1.50Hr from conductors planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. and the driver on board. You should immediately validate your For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. ticket using one of the many punching gadgets around you. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., Japan, If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a fine. All tickets Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can are good for one journey only. enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian con- taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specified routes. sulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380) 44 234 00 40. Many run the same routes as trolleys or trams and use the Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main stops posted Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, on the vehicle’s windshield or side window before it speeds by. Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may Marshrutkas will definitely get you from A to B faster than other enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are al- forms of municipal transport, as they are smaller and more lowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must manoeuvrable; an important feature on Lviv’s narrow roads. apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver “na more information call the following consulates: Polish (+380) zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the stop, please”) when you’ve had enough. Fares are paid as you board and currently costs 2Hr. 322 97 08 61, Hungarian (+380) 322 64 58 22, Slovakian consulate in Kyiv (+380) 44 234 06 06.

lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 8 Basics

Borders Basic data Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour Lviv at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to Population: 761 929 be switched! You should expect close inspection of your docu- Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 88.1%, Russian 8.9%, ments and belongings at border crossings. EU and American Polish 0.9%, Belarusian 0.4%, Jewish 0.3%, Armenian travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia 0.1%, other 1.3%. and can’t be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Lviv (see Directory/Foreign representatives). Ukraine Population: 45 633 600 (1 January 2012). Crime and Safety Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish of crime. Lviv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Moun- from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry tains in the extreme south. at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Customs Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Buh, Danube. of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m. Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessen- zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries tial, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However, food Drinking products should not total more than two kilograms, and there Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap should not be more than one package of the same product. to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol Goods with a total value of less than €200 may be brought in content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and is greater than €200, but less than €1000 they will need to establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. value of the goods is greater than €1000, the goods will be Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good subject to clearance in accordance with the import declara- samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, tion requirements for imported cargo. the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at international alert and you have documents which prove your some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the Disabled travellers State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (J-3, Smol’s’koho 10, Lviv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High tel. (+380) 322 75 80 81/72 79 91.) curb drops and steep steps are the rule and public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must question specifically caters to disabled guests. be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Electricity Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical Street smarts current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian Street вулиця (vul.) (VU-lytsia) sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those Square площа (pl.) (PLO-scha) with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their Avenue проспект (prosp.) (pro-SPEKT) European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical Boulevard бульвар (bul’v.) (bul’-VAR) societies are not easy to find in Lviv, so bring your own. Bridge міст (mist) Embankment набережна (nab.) (NA-berezhna) Floors Highway шосе (shose) (sho-SE) Lane провулок (prov.) (pro-VU-lok) Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first floor and so one.

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Basics 9

Market values National holidays 2012

How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy January 1 New Year list of local prices to give you an idea. January 7 Orthodox Christmas McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,78 $2,25 March 8 Women’s Day Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr €0,32 $0,40 April 15 Easter Sunday Snickers bar 6,00Hr €0,59 $0,75 April 16 Easter Monday Litre of vodka 50,00Hr €4,94 $6,26 May 1-2 A day off for the workers Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr €0,49 $0,62 May 9 Victory Day 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,33 $1,69 June 3 Trinity Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,12 $0,16 June 28 Constitution Day 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,50Hr €1,04 $1,31 August 24 Independence Day Official exchange rates (as of June 22): €1 – 10.12Hr US$1 – 7.99Hr £1 – 12.55Hr Language Current exchange rates are available at lviv.inyourpocket.com The country’s official language is Ukrainian. Since inde- pendence in 1991, it has become much more popular and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and Money Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian truly predominant. The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be The following is a list of some of the most common words confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some and phrases a person is likely to need. people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu) everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem find- Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) ing currency exchange points, but rates are better from central Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for Ye s Так (tak) a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs No Ні (ni) around Lviv and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho) been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restau- Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) rants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) Smoking Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia) some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of Ambulance Швидка (shvyd-KA) cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner Where is…? Де знаходиться...? kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine (de zna-KHO-dytsia) outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, ex- Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) cept in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each Do you speak English? Ви розмовляєте англійською? company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total (Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu) allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Days of the week Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it. Monday Понеділок (pone-DI-lok) Tuesday Вівторок (viv-TO-rok) Toilets Wednesday Середа (sere-DA) Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic sub- Thursday Четвер (chet-VER) ject in Lviv. Make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and Friday П’ятниця (PYAT-nytsia) after each café/restaurant you visit and you should be fine; Saturday Субота (su-BO-ta) pay toilets are in short supply in centre. If you think you can just pop in to McDonalds and take care of business, think again. Sunday Неділя (ne-DI-lia) You must first place an order then open the bathroom door Numbers by punching in the code located on the receipt. Good luck. 1 один (o-DYN) 7 сім (sim) 2 два (dva) 8 вісім (VI-sim) Tipping 3 три (try) 9 дев’ять (DE-vyat’) Lviv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule 4 чотири (cho-TY-ry) 10 десять (DE-syat’) exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their 5 п’ять (pyat’) 100 сто (sto) bill. Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per 6 шість (shist’) 1000 тисяча (TY-sya-cha) cent, so read the fine print or ask. lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 10 Culture & Events

Art galleries What’s on Art-11 C-3, pl. Rynok 37, tel. (+380) 32 274 03 67. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. 4th Lviv Klezmer Fest Dzyga C-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 12. 20-22 July 2012 QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission is free. During this festival you will enjoy a theatrical Jewish wedding Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform C-3, pl. Rynok procession on the streets of the medieval Jewish quarter. 40, tel. (+380) 32 297 51 93. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. It will be joined by performances of Klezmer groups from Closed Mon. Admission is free. different countries. Then the ceremony quickly turns into a Garry Bowman C-4, Nalyviaka 18, tel. (+380) 32 242 great, long-lasting gala-concert on the ancient square near 99 99. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. the legendary synagogue “Golden Rose”. Gerdan C-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 46. You will be also offered master-classes on Jewish dance and QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free. handicrafts, walking tours in the Jewish quarter, and, of course, Iconart C-4, Virmenska 26, tel. (+380) 32 235 52 95, you will taste traditional Jewish cuisine. www.iconart.com.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Sun 12:00 Those who will visit this great holiday of Jewish culture in Lviv - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. in the very heart of Eastern Galicia will leave with fond lasting Lviv Art Gallery A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 memories; Memories of the natural scenery in harmony with 39 48/(+380) 32 261 41 60. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, the unique Klezmer music. Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Admission 10Hr, children 2Hr. Friday is The Square behind the city arsenal D-4, Staroyevre- free for students. iska, www.hesed.lviv.ua. Lviv Palace of Arts A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 89 33. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis- sion is free. Pory roku (Seasons) C-3, Virmens’ka 23, tel. (+380) 32 235 44 65. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free. Zelena Kanapa C-3, Virmens’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 75 49. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis- sion is free. Cinemas Kinopalace (3D) B-3, Teatral’na 22, tel. (+380) 32 297 50 50/(+380) 32 297 50 05. Q Tickets 20-60Hr. Kinopalace Kopernyk B-5, Kopernyka 9, tel. (+380) 32 240 37 69. Q Tickets 20-40Hr. Planeta Kino (IМАХ/3D) Stryis’ka 30, Sokilnyky, King Cross Leopolis, tel. 0 800 300 600. Q Tickets 18-80Hr. Fort.Missia Culture centres 20-22 July 2012 The annual Fort Missia Festival represents the newest forms British Council H-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National of art on the old fortifications of an almost forgotten war. The University, tel. (+380) 322 39 45 52. QOpen , Mon, Thu concert programme usually features Ukrainian and Polish 14:30 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 15:00, Wed 16:00 - 19:00. rock-stars, jazz, electronic music, contemporary art, theatrical Closed Sat, Sun. performances, fire-shows, films, master-classes and more. Goethe-Institute H-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National In 2012, Fort Мissia aims to organise art projects from both University, tel. (+380) 322 39 47 67. sides of the border in cooperation with its Polish partners. Lviv State Palace I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 2, tel. (+380) The Festival will fan out into the Polish part of the unique 32 275 32 47. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00. Borek fort of WW I, which is located in 1 km from the border. Border Zone between Ukraine and Poland 80 km Theatres from Lviv, Popovychi village, nearby Shegini border cross- First Ukrainian Theatre for Children and Youth ing point. www.fortmissia.com A-4, Akademika Gnatiuka 11, tel. (+380) 32 272 68 41/(+380) 32 272 68 55. QClosed Mon. Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre A-3, Lesia Kur- basa 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 14/(+380) 32 272 48 24. Q Tickets 55-60Hr. Lviv Regional Dall Theatre C-2, Danyla Halyts’koho pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 58 32. Maria Zankovetska National Academic Ukrainian Drama Theatre B-2, Lesi Ukrainky 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 83, www.zankovetska.com.ua. QClosed Mon. Tickets 20-50Hr. Solomiya Krushelnytska Opera and Ballet Theatre A-3, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 90/ (+380) 32 242 11 63, www.opera.lviv.ua. QClosed Mon, Tue. Tickets 25-125Hr. Voskresinnya Theatre H-2, Henerala Hryhorenka pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 274 13 00. QTickets 10-30Hr. Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 11

Wiz-Art Etnovyr V International Festival of Short films 22-26 August 2012 May 17 – 20 2012 Every year during Independence Day celebrations this folklore The International Festival of festival flows with the bright colours of different national cul- Short films “Wiz-Art” repre- tures. During the Festival various bands perform. There are sents the current state and parades in the city, one can sample cuisine from all over the trends of short films and world, participate master-classes in dancing and singing and visual arts development in much more! In recent years, participants from over 15 coun- Ukraine, and in the world tries have taken part in Etnovyr. Locations around city centre. in general. The aim of the festival is not only to create a platform for sharing the experience, education, and establishing collaboration between members of cul- tural societies in the world, but also to help Ukraine with European integration through culture. The festival screens short films created in the last year along with and animated works, experimental films, and video artist’s performances .The festival programme con- sists of competitive and non-competition blocks. After each session, the audience votes for the film, which will receive the “Audience Choice Award’. Also you can enjoy author’s presentations and retrospectives during the festival. Previous special guests have been directors from Turkey, Great Britain, Scotland, Ukraine, Norway and Germany. For more information please visit the website www.wiz–art. com.ua LeoProbih 24 August 2012 Захid (Zakhid) This is a charity sport event which is being held this year in the city centre. The aim is to promote healthy lifestyles and 17-19 August 2012 raise funds to purchase medical equipment for the paediatric The Festival supports Ukrainian music, literature, and art. surgery department of the “Okhmatdyt” regional hospital. The programme of 3axid features rock and ethno music. After the run the most active and fastest participants will be The main objective of the Festival is to help develop the rewarded prizes. We invite you to join this noble and positive tourist industry in the region. In 2012, apart from the main initiative of Lviv residents! It’s very easy to join the event - Ukrainian programme, the famous Moldavian band Zdob Si come to Svobody prospect at 10:00 in the morning, register, Zdub will perform at the event. Buses will be organised from make a 30Hr donation, and run 2 kilometres. the Lviv train station to 3axid location during the Festival. www.3axid.org

Tyzhden Aktualnoho Mystetstva (TAM) The Week of Contemporary Art 31 August - 9 September 2012 Independence Day The event is an unprecedented festival of contemporary art 24 August 2012 in Ukraine. It was founded by the Art Association Dzyga and Since Lviv is by far the most patriotic city in Ukraine, (the the Institute of Actual Art in 2008. The project includes per- first national flag was raised here on Vysokyi Zamok mount formances, installation art, street-art, “new media”, video and in late 1980’s) expect to see huge celebrations and various film demonstrations, photo exhibitions, lectures, discussions cultural events around the city. Usually Lvivians and guest of and master-classes. In previous years around 100 artists the city celebrate Independence Day during several days. A from Poland, The Netherlands, Great Britain, Israel, Iceland, special feature of the celebration will be the International Folk Canada, and Switzerland participated in the Project. This year Festival “Etnovyr”. Around 250 participants will take part in the “Tyzhden Week” promises to be even more interesting the Festival this year. It is held in the central part of the city. and exciting. For a detailed programme and venue list visit: www.cultureandtourism.lviv.ua. www.dzyga.com/tam. lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 12 Culture & Events

Normandy in Painting Exhibition The Gold of Antic World 18.05 - 26.08 2012 This unique collection displays wreaths from the ‘classical For several months the “Normandy collection” will be exhibited era” dating from 8 BC - 5 AD. These items are made from pure in the National Museum. The collection contains works by gold without any alloys. In ancient times wreaths were worn Monet, Boudin, Géricault, Courbet, Renoir, and Dufy. These by Scythians. The higher the position in society that a man artists were in one or other way connected with Normandy. occupied - the more precious was his diadem. It is known that The exhibition is organised by the Institute Français d’Ukraine. wreaths played an important role in the ancient traditions of National Museum Svobody prosp. 20, tel. (+380) 32 Trypillians, Greeks, and Romans, those who lived on what is 272 80 63. Admission adult 20Hr, kids 10Hr. now modern Ukraine. The exhibition includes artefacts that miraculously survived and surprise us even today by their elegance and high craftsmanship.

Three Unique Exhibitions Until 31 December 2012 This unique exhibition consists of three parts and one The Trypillian Code ticket covers all three. We have decided to review each part For the first time Lviv is hosting one of the biggest and best separately to give you the full picture of what you can see collections of Trypillia cultural artefacts. The traces of this and what you would lose if you were to miss this exhibition. ancient culture were found on the territory of three countries The funds from the tickets will be used for renovation works - Romania, Moldova, and Ukraine. This collection includes over Palats Pototskykh. These collections have been shown around 300 items dating from 4500-3000 BC. Some of them in the USA, Vatican and Poland. are unique among the discoveries made in the last 130 years of researching Trypillian culture. This exhibition should be on the “must see” list of those interested in the origins of the Ukrainian nation. Some noteworthy displays are: vessels and statuettes of women that were used in ritual purposes, a variety of jars and bowls in which the ancestors of the Slavs kept grain. One can also see models of Trypillians huts and their ritual structures. The highlights of the exhibition are a working loom and pysanky (Easter eggs), which show Trypil- lian symbols.

The Golden Treasures of Lost Civilizations If you have ever seen the Collections of Gold jewellery and artefacts in the Louvre or Hermitage then you may not be interested in this feature and should just skip it. But if you decide to take a closer look, we sure you will be more than satisfied with this unique opportunity to see the Scythian Gold and jewellery from ancient Kyivan Rus times. The collection includes rare, highly artistic articles of Greek craftsmen, along with household items, tools, weapon and unique jewellery of Cimmerians, Scythians, Samarians, and others who inhabited the territory of Ukraine. The exhibition also represents a rich collection from the Roman and Byzantium eras. Palats Pototskykh A-5, Kopernyka 15. QOpen 10:00 Particular attention should be paid to the “King’s Grivena” - a – 17:00, Sun 12:00 – 16:00. Admission for all 3 exhibitions coin from Scythian times and the displays of unique ecclesi- 30Hr for adults, 15Hr for kids. On Fridays 50% discount for astical objects and jewellery from Kyivan Rus times. senior-citizens and kids.

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lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 14 Where to stay

The boom is on for Lviv’s hotel industry! Throughout its history, the city’s stunning architecture, rich history and Symbol key exciting dining and entertainment options have drawn travellers in hordes. During the last few years, many new P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted establishments were opened to serve Lviv’s guests. Now, O Casino H Conference facilities all hotels and hostels offer a full range of comfort, style and service. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled Tired of hotels? A number of agencies offer renovated R Internet L Guarded parking apartments that can be rented on a nightly basis, and are considerably cheaper than many hotel rooms. The advan- F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms tages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are K Restaurant M Nearest metro station definite pluses. D Sauna C Swimming pool Cream of the crop 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi internet access Citadel Inn H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 77 77, fax (+380) 32 295 90 00, reservation@citadel- is served in the elegant hotel’s restaurant. Special execu- inn.com.ua, www.citadel-inn.com/en. Located near tive hour service from 17:30 until 19:00 with complimentary centre, Citadel is actually a 19th century fortress. Encased soft and alcohol drinks and canapés in the cosy Library will in such a unique old-world atmosphere, it’s easy to shrug off make a good start for your evening. In 2012 the new wing contemporary problems and just relax. Staff is very courte- of the hotel brought the room total to 76, a spa centre, two ous and adept at serving foreign clients. Twenty-six elegant, conference rooms, new restaurant and evening cocktail bar. ultra-comfortable rooms are available and come standard Q43 rooms (18 superiors €165 - 220, 22 junior suites with air-conditioning, cable TV, safe, mini-bar, bathrobes, €250, 2 suites €400, 1 apartment €550, extra bed €30). slippers, hair-dryer, telephone and Internet access. The PHR6ULGKW hhhhh romantic Garmata Restaurant serves succulent European and Ukrainian cuisine. Guests are also welcome to enjoy Nobilis I-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 25 95, fax (+380) the sauna, gym and conference and banquet rooms. Q26 32 295 79 97, [email protected], www. rooms (standards 1190 - 1400Hr, superior 1590 - 1800Hr, nobilis-hotel.com.ua. A great 1st class hotel in the centre suite 3390Hr, extra bed 200 - 500Hr). POHARU� which just opened in December, 2011. There are 49 exquisitely FLGKDW hhhh decorated rooms ranging from ‘standard’ at 2475Hr. per night to the ‘Nobel Suite’ for 7040Hr. There is a Spa for guests and Grand Hotel B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 72 a soon to be opened fitness centre. There is a quaint lounge 40 42, fax (+380) 322 76 90 60, reservation@ghgroup. bar open 24 hours and a piano bar with live music daily and com.ua, www.ghgroup.com.ua. Grand is extremely adept a special performance every Sunday. The Nobilis Restaurant at meeting the needs of western travellers. Located on Lviv’s has a gourmet blend of tantalizing Mediterranean cuisine and main thoroughfare, the hotel was completely renovated in signature local dishes, which are certain to delight your taste the late 90’s and has an elegant appeal. Rooms come with sensations and surpass your expectations. It also offers classic interiors, modern amenities and views of either the romantic private dinners, breakfast in bed and more. There is quiet courtyard or of bustling Svobody prosp. The breakfast a room service menu available 24-hours. Restaurant Hours: buffet served in Grand’s renowned restaurant is included 11:00 - 23:00. Breakfast hours: Monday-Friday: 07:00 - 10:30, in the room charge, as is a membership to an upscale fit- Saturday-Sunday 08:00 - 11:30. Q49 rooms (40 standards ness centre that features a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, 2475Hr, 8 suites 3630 - 3960Hr, 1 apartment 7040Hr). massage service, solarium, aerobics hall and gym. The PbHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh professional staff is fluent in English making for a no-hassle experience. Q61 rooms (singles €82, doubles €107, junior Opera A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32 225 90 suites €143, suites €170, apartment €220, extra bed €30). 00/(+380) 50 431 95 99, fax (+380) 32 225 90 01, PHARFLGKDW hhhh [email protected], www.hotel-opera.com. ua. Opera is perfect for both business trips and romantic getaways. Located at the start of Svobody prosp., the 51 Leopolis B-3, Teatral’na 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 95 00, newly remodelled rooms come equipped with air-conditioning, fax (+380) 32 295 95 99, reservations@leopolishotel. telephone, filtered tap water, refrigerator with mini-bar and com, www.leopolishotel.com. Located in a newly reno- satellite TV. Many rooms have spectacular views of the vated 18th century structure just steps from historic Rynok Opera House and the ancient cityscape that lies beyond. pl., Leopolis is a nose ahead when it comes to class. The The restaurant on the ground floor serves a complimentary attention to detail here is impressive. All rooms are unique, breakfast, and for lunch and dinner head to the exclusive stylishly designed and come with classy touches such as Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor. The exquisite heated tile floors, anti-allergenic features, stereo systems menu and popular summer terrace make this one of the that weave throughout the rooms (there are even speakers most intriguing and definitely the most romantic venues in in the shower), high-speed wireless Internet, soundproof the city. Excellent conference facilities are available. Q51 triple-pane windows, etc. A complimentary buffet breakfast rooms (12 singles 850-1020Hr, 29 doubles 1120-1302Hr, 5 junior suites 1540Hr, 5 suites 2380Hr, extra bed 300Hr). Door smarts PHAR6ULKW hhhh A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing moments in front of a foreign door. Pull До себе Push Від себе €1 = 10.12Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.55Hr Open Відчинено (22 June 2012 official rates) Closed Зачинено

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lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 16 Where to stay

tourists. Located in the lobby, the restaurant offers appropri- Upmarket ate European cuisine. Q92 rooms (singles €47, doubles Chopin B-5, Malaniuka pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 10 €57 - 66, junior suites €85, suites €122, apartments €160). 20, fax (+380) 32 261 10 21, [email protected]. POHARLGKW hhhh ua, www.chopinhotel.com.ua/en. While the outside is Reikartz Dworzec F-3, Horodots’koho 107, tel. (+380) definitely a classical Polish/Lvivan style, once inside, one can 32 235 08 88, [email protected], www.rei- imagine oneself inside a modern hotel in any major European kartz.com. Located on the edge of downtown, this new kid City. Chopin Hotel is located in a quaint plaza near the City on the block brings competitive rates and western European Hall, the Lviv regional philharmonic society, and a short walk standards to Lviv. All rooms are stylish, comfortably furnished from the Pototsky Palace and the Lviv Art Gallery. We found and come with mini bar, safe, hairdryer, satellite TV, internet the staff very friendly and happily, English speaking. Guests access and telephone. The cosy lobby-bar and the Calvados may enjoy Polish and European specialties in the stylish Mediterranean restaurant are fine additions. The staff is Chopin restaurant with a summer terrace. We stopped by at professional and eager to make your stay a comfortable breakfast time and the buffet made our mouth water. We were one. The hotel has two modern conference halls, which are told in the evening there is live piano music. The atmosphere fitted with professional equipment and are able to accom- was so comfortable, I almost wanted to wait. All 16 rooms are modate 90 and 130 people, correspondingly. The Business air-conditioned and decorated in a romantic style. They are fit- Centre of the hotel will provide all the necessary support ted with both Wi-Fi and cable internet, Cable TV, a mini bar and to any business meetings. Q52 rooms (8 singles 500Hr, a safe. Many additional services are available. Q16 rooms 32 doubles 600Hr, 6 superiors 800Hr, 6 suites 1350Hr). (4 singles 700 - 800Hr, 3 doubles 900Hr, 5 suites 1300Hr, PARLKDCW hhh 2 apartments 1600 - 1900Hr, 2 junior suite 1100Hr). hhh Reikartz Medievale C-3, Drukarska 9, tel. (+380) 32 Dnister G-3, Mateika 6, tel. (+380) 32 297 43 17/(+380) 235 08 90, [email protected], www.reikartz. 32 297 43 05, fax (+380) 32 297 10 21, bron@dnister. com. This hotel is situated in the very centre of historic Lviv, lviv.ua, www.dnister.lviv.ua. Set half way up St. George hill close to Rynok Square. It was opened in December, 2010 overlooking picturesque Ivan Franko Park, Dnister offers the and presently has 23 rooms decorated in European style, absolute best views of Lviv. With 165 rooms it is also one of or more accurately Belgian style; modern and simple. One the largest hotels in the city. Value for hryvnia doesn’t actually gets the feeling that everything here works smoothly and kick in room-wise until superior and lux (definitely worth splurg- efficiently. There is presently a very relaxing lobby bar. There ing for); standard rooms are reminiscent of what can be found is a second phase expansion underway which will include in a stateside motel. Built in 1983, the hotel was completely a large restaurant, conference rooms and nearly 50 more remodelled in 1999 and has since garnered the reputation as rooms. The staff is English speaking and extremely friendly. one of Lviv’s premier business and conference centres. Seven All rooms are bright and refreshing and well priced. Everything conference halls are available with the largest accommodating you could ask for is included, Internet, cable satellite TV, safe, up to 200 participants. They also offer group discounts: the mini bar etc. Don’t forget that one is only seconds from the larger the group the bigger the discount. Staff is courteous, excitement of the old city and all it offers. Q23 rooms (6 professional and English speaking. Wi-Fi is available through- singles 590Hr, 8 doubles 690Hr, 6 superior 890Hr, 3 suite out the hotel. The restaurant is elegantly arranged and offers 1390Hr). PRUW hhhh scrumptious European cuisine. The hotel’s gem is the Pano- rama Bar located on the ninth floor. From the bars telescope Swiss Hotel C-5, Kniazia Romana 20, tel./fax (+380) it’s possible to get a close up peep of Old Town or eaves drop 32 240 37 77, [email protected], www.swiss- on hikers mulling about Vysokyi Zamok Mount. Q165 rooms hotel.lviv.ua. Swiss offers 18 suites, each of which is (16 economy 500Hr, 6 standards 600Hr, 29 superiors 850Hr, uniquely decorated. All rooms come equipped with satellite 102 businesses 950Hr, 12 suites 1500Hr). hhhh TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe, hair dryer and slippers. Breakfast is served in the Italian restaurant and is Eney K-4, Shymzeriv 2, tel./fax (+380) 322 76 87 99, included in the price. Other services include room service, [email protected], www.eney.lviv.ua. This quaint hotel is city tours in a variety of languages, a children’s room (free for located in a tranquil niche next to a botanical garden a short hotel guests), nanny services for small children and a confer- cab ride from centre. Rooms are decked with stylishly modern ence hall with multimedia equipment. Q18 rooms (standard décor and come standard with air-conditioning, satellite TV, €90, superior €115, junior suites €150, suites €170 - 200, Internet, bathrobe, toiletries, safe and mini-bar. Relaxation apartment €262). PHARLGKDCW hhhh and entertainment options include a dry sauna, billiards and an outdoor pool (open throughout the summer months). The Lion’s Castle Hotel G-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served at the 297 15 63/(+380) 32 238 61 16, fax (+380) 32 237 82 hotel’s restaurant, which features Ukrainian, European and 51, [email protected], www.lioncastlehotel.com/ Japanese cuisine. Reception staff is extremely professional, en. Located in one of Lviv’s most elite neighbourhoods, The courteous and multi-lingual. Q15 rooms (singles 680Hr, Lion’s Castle offers guests serenity and comfort. The castle, doubles 880 - 1080Hr, triples 1280Hr, suites 120 - 1480Hr, constructed in 1898, was the brainchild of architect Arthur apartments 1680Hr). PHARLGKXCW hhh Schlein. Thirteen rooms of varying comfort and elegance are available and come equipped with refrigerator, cable Eurohotel J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, tel. (+380) 32 242 TV, DVD-player (upon request), telephone, free Wi-Fi and a 40 02, fax (+380) 32 275 72 24, [email protected]. parking lot. Other services include laundry, baggage storage, ua, www.eurohotel.lviv.ua. Located a brisk 15 minute walk and complimentary newspapers and magazines. With it’s from centre, Eurohotel has an elegantly remodelled interior summer terrace and birds singing The Lion’s Castle Hotel is and rooms. A safe, mini bar, Internet access, satellite TV and an idyllic place for romantic weekends as well as for business air-conditioning come standard in the rooms. The hotel also trips due to hotel’s closeness to the exhibition centres. Hotel features a modern business centre, a conference hall that café offers a mix of Ukrainian and European cuisine with great accommodates up to 50 and interpreting services. Various wine carte, home-made pastry and desserts. The hotel’s package deals are also available and come with extras such conference hall seats up to 30. Q13 rooms (8 standards as guided city tours and airport transfer. Reception speaks 500 - 750Hr, 4 junior suites 900 - 1000Hr, 1 suite 1500 - fluent English and is adept at meeting the needs of foreign 1600Hr). HR6FLGKDCW

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 17

lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 18 Where to stay

Vintage Boutique Hotel C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 25/27, telephone, cable TV, Internet access and a refrigerator. Many tel. (+380) 32 235 68 34, fax (+380) 32 235 70 24, rooms have romantic views of Svobody prosp. and Lviv’s [email protected], www.vintagehotel.com.ua/ historic centre. Tourist class rooms come at a bargain rate, en/home.html. Vintage is located on one of old town’s most but you’ll have to share a bathroom and shower. The service alluring streets. The recently remodelled rooms are elegant and is up to standard and English is not a problem for most of the come standard with satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-condi- helpful staff. George’s restaurant, bar and banquet room are tioning, safe, Wi-Fi and slippers. The lux room is stunning and located through the lobby. The Lviv chestnut beef and savoury the twins and doubles are comfortable; however, the singles pork highlight the restaurant’s reasonably priced menu and tend to be a bit claustrophobic. Many rooms offer fascinating the complimentary breakfast begins at 7:30. Q90 rooms contrasting views of the surrounding ancient architecture. A (economy 400 - 550Hr, standards 800 - 850Hr, junior suites small business centre is at your service, and the complimentary 900Hr, suites 1000Hr). PHARKW hhh buffet breakfast is served in the café. Q12 rooms (3 singles Kupava E-2, Komarova 17, tel./fax (+380) 32 245 03 760Hr, 6 doubles 960Hr, 3 suites 1570Hr). PARLK 45, [email protected], www.kupavahotel.com. A fairly new hotel a bit outside the centre with 13 lovely rooms Mid-range ranging from 500-1600Hr. The restaurant has to be seen to Edem F-3, Horodots’ka 95A, tel. (+380) 32 240 31 05, be believed. It is divided into several sections, extravagantly [email protected], www.hotel-edem.lviv.ua. A lovely, styled as though being in an old Ukrainian indoor-outdoor hunt- quaint hotel near the centre, just 2 years old. It is wheel chair ing lodge. The English menu is reasonably priced with a daily accessible, a rarity in Ukraine! The 20 rooms are beautifully complete menu for 55Hr. The staff was very friendly and helpful. decorated with all extras and range from 500Hr per night for a Q12 rooms (6 standards 500 - 720Hr, 4 junior suite 930 - single to 960Hr for a suite. The restaurant is very popular, with 1100Hr, 2 suite 1600Hr). PH6LGKDCW hhhh an English menu and very reasonable priced. Q20 rooms Natalia 18 B-2, Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 7, (3 singles 500Hr, 12 doubles 620Hr, 3 junior suites 780Hr, 2 tel./fax (+380) 32 242 20 68, www.natalia18.lviv. suites 960Hr, additional bed 150Hr). PALGKW hhh ua. The quiet ambiance of this quaint hotel is a distinct George C-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 232 62 contrast to the bustle of the lively little square that lies 32, fax (+380) 32 297 11 44, [email protected]. beyond the threshold. With only 22 rooms, it’s easy to feel ua, www.georgehotel.com.ua. Hotel George was founded at home and the friendly English speaking staff knows how by George Hoffman in 1901. The structure itself is a fine to accommodate. The tastefully remodelled rooms are example of Neo-Renaissance architecture and was designed equipped with air-conditioning, satellite TV, mini-bar and by famed Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann telephone. Natalia’s restaurant is set in a comfy basement Helmer. The interior was restored in 2010 meaning that a and features reasonably priced Ukrainian and European touch of Soviet remains, i.e. the lift really takes your breath cuisine. The salmon in a honey sauce is a local favourite. away. The deluxe and semi-deluxe rooms are spacious, have Q22 rooms (3 singles 430Hr, 15 doubles 580 - 630Hr, 4 been remodelled to the local taste and come standard with suites 800 - 1000Hr). POHARLGK hhh Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 19

Prestige F-2, Yaroslava Mudroho 33, tel. (+380) 32 244 TV, Internet and telephone. General services include transfer 41 78, fax (+380) 32 244 41 79, www.pristige-hotel. from the airport and rail station, travel services, interpreter, lviv.ua/index_en.html. Don’t let the name frighten your car hire, room service and parking. A small conference hall wallet, Prestige is actually good value for hryvnia. Located a is also available. Q18 rooms (10 standards 425 - 500Hr, 5 short cab ride from centre, rooms were recently remodelled junior suites 575 - 650Hr, 3 suites 750 - 1200Hr, extra bed and are elegantly furnished. With only nine rooms and one 100Hr). PHARLKW hhhh apartment, this hotel is regularly booked; advanced reserva- Vienna B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 32 244 43 tion is the way to go. Breakfast is served in the café on the 14/(+380) 32 244 43 15, fax (+380) 32 244 43 16, ground floor and starts at 65Hr. Amenities include satellite [email protected], www.wienhotel.com.ua/en. TV, air-conditioning, safe, mini bar, laundry service, 24 hour Vienna’s location, competitive prices and welcoming staff room service and guarded parking. Q10 rooms (standards makes for an attractive combination. Even in the low season 385Hr, junior suites 485Hr, suites 985Hr, additional bed rooms are hard to come by, so book ahead. All rooms have 60Hr). PAR hhh a cosy welcome home appeal, offer enthralling views of Staryi Krakiv (Old Krakow) H-2, Shpytal’na 21, tel. Lviv’s lively centre and come equipped with air-conditioning, (+380) 32 297 16 30, fax (+380) 32 261 33 75, star- cable TV and Internet access. The summer patio, part of [email protected], www.staryikrakiv.lviv.ua. After the celebrated Vienna Coffehouse restaurant, is one of the renovation of Shpytal’na street it became a good addition hottest venues in town. A billiard hall is also available. Q20 to ancient city. A hotel is located here in just 3 minutes walk rooms (singles €32, doubles €38, junior suites €75, suite from the Opera Theatre. Staff is friendly and nice speaks not €85). PARLKW hhh only English but Polish and Spanish also. The complimen- Volter Lypyns’koho 60A, tel. (+380) 32 294 88 88/ tary breakfast is served in the cosy courtyard café. VAT not (+380) 32 557 88 88, fax (+380) 32 294 88 89, book- included. Q10 rooms (4 singles 380Hr, 4 doubles 460Hr, 2 [email protected], www.hotelvolter.com.ua. A bit out of triples 570Hr). PRGKW hhh the centre, part of the Nton Hotel chain. There are 56 well U Burgera I-4, Ivana Franka 73, tel. (+380) 32 276 12 furnished rooms ranging from 250Hr to 800Hr per night with 51/(+380) 67 673 50 51, fax (+380) 32 296 65 69, a buffet breakfast included. For visitors and guests who are [email protected], www.burger.com.ua. We were a not staying at the hotel the price for buffet breakfast is 50Hr. touch confused when we first entered the hotel: there’s a The restaurant is open from 07:00 till 10:00 (till 11:00 on beer tap mounted on the reception desk. I’m sure were not weekends) Business lunches (25Hr) - daily from 12:00 until the first visitors to wonder “Where the hell are we?” Since 15:00. Dinner can be served in your room. There is a choice we had a few minutes to kill before our tour, we ordered a of original dishes of French cuisine from the a-la carte menu. couple pints of Lvivske Premium and enjoyed. Rooms are There is a large banquet hall available. Wi-Fi is everywhere and comfortable and come in various themes. For example, the there is room service round-the-clock. Q56 rooms (singles lux room sleeps up to four and looks like something Elton 250 - 350Hr, doubles 295 - 420Hr, junior suites 420 - 580Hr, John would decorate. All rooms are equipped with satellite suites 670 - 800Hr). PHA6ULGKW hhh

lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 20 Where to stay

Budget costing just 850Hr per night. All rooms have all the extras. There are several conference halls and seminar rooms and Lviv A-2, Chornovola prosp. 7, tel. (+380) 32 242 32 the Restaurant is open 24/7. Q122 rooms (doubles €34 - 70/(+380) 32 272 86 51, fax (+380) 32 272 86 51, 40, junior suites €71, suites €80 - 85). www.hotel-lviv.com.ua. With 360 rooms, this is one of Lviv’s largest hotels. Centrally located, rooms on the upper floors facing Chornovola prosp. come with nice views of the Hostels historic centre. Not much has changed with the lobby, stairs Central Square Hostel C-3, Rynok pl. 5, tel. (+380) and lift since Soviet days and room furnishings are a bit rough 32 254 61 69/(+380) 97 222 41 36, cshostel@gmail. around the edges. Only about half of the rooms come with com, www.cshostel.com/en. Central offers the unique ex- telephone and a TV; “superior” rooms have refrigerators. perience of staying right on Rynok pl. (Market Square) - Lviv’s Ukrainian and European are on order in the restaurant and cobbled heart. With only 18 available beds, space is limited. there’s plenty of parking for those bold enough to drive on Owner and stuff will give you most needed information about Ukraine’s roads. Q360 rooms (singles 120 - 355Hr, doubles city and places where to go. However, this is a fine choice for 220 - 500Hr, triples 300 - 360Hr, quads 480 - 640Hr, junior travellers on a hostel budget looking to avoid crowds. Things suites 475 - 690Hr). LK to know before you go: no curfew, 24 hours reception, Wi-Fi, breakfast, private lockers and a newly remodelled bathroom Nton Shevchenka 154B, tel. (+380) 32 233 71 72/ with laundry. Q doubles 160 - 400Hr, quads 140 - 160Hr, (+380) 67 676 88 85, fax (+380) 32 233 31 23, hotel- 6-dorm 120 - 140Hr, 8-dorm 95 - 120Hr. R6GW [email protected], www.hotelnton.lviv.ua. This hotel is quite far from the center and a great place for train spotters. Coffee home hostel B-3, B-4, Yavorskoho pl., apt. 5, There are 76 well decorated rooms ranging from just 380Hr tel. (+380) 93 239 93 93/(+380) 63 341 95 94, cof- per night including a great buffet breakfast. There are 2 [email protected], www.homehostels.com.ua. large restaurants, one with an Egyptian décor and a large We have not just visit this hostel to write a review, we actually outside dining area, and 2 smaller ones. Banquets are often stayed there for 2 nights. The most great thing about this hostels held. Prices are very reasonable. Q76 rooms (singles 280 is its location in a minute or two from Rynok Square. A view from - 420Hr, doubles 420 - 480Hr, junior suite 470 - 520Hr, suite hostel’s windows is also marvellous with St Peter and Paul Church 590 - 640Hr, additional bed 150Hr). POTHA6U� of the Jesuit Order on one side and Shevska vul. with a luxurious FLGKDCW hhh Leopolis hotel from the other. Coffee Home offers free Wi-Fi, 24 hour reception, washing machine and of course coffee! At the Sykhiv Morozna 14, tel. (+380) 32 23 25 000/(+380) time we stayed there we could choose from 6 types of excellent 32 23 25 005, fax (+380) 32 23 25 010, info@hotel- coffee Q5 rooms (2 doubles 160Hr, 1 triple 130Hr, 1 6-dorm sykhiv.com, www.hotelsykhiv.com. Located a ways from 110Hr, 1 10-dorm 100Hr). AGW the centre, this hotel of 177 rooms has just been beautifully remodeled. Rooms are reasonably priced with a semi delux Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 21

Kurmanovycha Kurmanovycha 9, tel. (+380) 67 314 66 61, [email protected]. Although this hostel is located a bit from centre, it has its pluses. Situated in a “recreation zone”, it’s just a 50 metre walk from Levandivka Park. Twenty-five rooms can accommodate up to 120 trav- ellers. Conveniences are shared, but hot water is available 24/7. A relatively large car park is available. Discounts from 10-15% are offered to groups larger than 20. Breakfast and parking are not included in the rate. Q doubles 140Hr, 3, 4, 5 - bed dorms 60Hr. RL Leo City I-4, Konopnyt’skoi 15, app. 7, 3d floor, door code 7, tel. (+380) 93 948 93 26, [email protected], www.leocityhostel.com. Locating the building that houses this hostel is easy. The trick is finding your way into the hostel itself. It’s actually located on the third floor, and you may need to call reception for someone to show you the way. Once inside, you’ll discover competitive rates on newly remodelled rooms. Choose from a ten or eight bed room, and one private room. The freebie list is extensive and includes coffee, tea, milk, break- fast, towels, linens, Wi-Fi, luggage storage, maps and advice. Q doubles 135Hr, quads 80Hr, additional bed 70Hr. ARW Lviv Backpackers Hostel Roxelana F-4, Henerala Chuprynky 50/4, tel. (+380) 97 444 97 89, hostelrun- [email protected], www.roxelana.hostel.com. The name implies exactly what this is; A hostel for “true backpackers”. Those wishing to really economize will probably not find anything cheaper in all of Europe! There are shared rooms with 8 beds each and a smaller room for more “private accommodation”. The décor is “Late Brezhnev” with some remodeling taking place. A kitchen is available as well as an “in-house” café for those wishing to eat-in. Breakfast is included along with Wi-Fi and a whole lot of services provided including cable TV & bicycle hire. It is easily accessible and about halfway between the Train station and the city centre. Q doubles €15, triples €10, 8-bed dorm €9, 12-bed dorm €9, 14-bed dorm €7. RLW Old City Hostel Beryndy 3, app. 7, tel. (+380) 32 294 96 44/(+380) 93 259 35 00, fax (+380) 32 235 77 88, [email protected], oldcityhostel.lviv.ua. A great deal for backpackers & those on a limited budget. It’s located right smack dab in the middle of the “old city”. We found it warm & cosy with a very friendly English speaking staff. All rooms were modern and clean. There’s a communal kitchen and Wi-Fi and breakfast is included. There’s a 10% discount if one books online and a discount for those staying 3 days or longer. Open 24 hours. Q doubles 300 - 370Hr, quads 120 - 150Hr, 6-bed dorm 110 - 130Hr, 10-bed dorm 100 - 120Hr, 16-bed dorm 80 - 100Hr. AW Old Ukrainian Home G-2, Lepkoho 12, tel. (+380) 32 272 76 11/(+380) 67 911 14 31, oldua@homehostels. com.ua, www.homehostels.org. Old Ukrainian Home is a vibrant, cosy addition to Lviv’s hostel spectrum. The location is supreme - just a short walk from the city’s prime attrac- tions. Rooms are tidy and comfortable, and the antique Apartment rental

RoomMe, tel. (+380) 67 340 81 65, support@ roomme.net, www.roomme.net/en/. This portal provides an up-to-date range of apartments in major cit- ies of Ukraine and option to book an apartment online. Customers can use the internal messaging system to get from apartment owner all necessary details. Using a rec- ommendation system, clients can share their opinions of the apartments where they stayed. Q114 apartments €19 - 62. PAGW lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 22 RestauWhere torants stay

touches add nicely to what is sure to be a unique experience. Guest House Freebies include linen and towels, hair dryer, washing machine, iron, safe, Wi-Fi, coffee and tea. Choose from a private room Family House G-3, Karpins’koho 7, app. 5, tel. with a double bed, and six and ten bed dorm rooms. Other (+380) 95 225 66 54/(+380) 32 253 24 90, fax mentionables include 24 hour reception, tourist information, (+380) 32 254 61 69, [email protected]. train and bus ticket booking, kitchen, library and bicycle hire. As the name implies, it is a place for families, individual Q singles 190 - 200Hr, doubles 140 - 150Hr, triples 140 - tourists of course are welcome and the prices are quite 150Hr, 6-dorm 90 - 95Hr, 10-dorm 85 - 90Hr. PAR6GW reasonable. It has 3 rooms: a single room, double room, Retro Hostel Shevchenko C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 16, and a family room. There are 2 bathrooms, a large kitchen, tel./fax (+380) 32 240 37 61, sun.hotel.2007@gmail. communal room, and a place to store bicycles. The hostel com. Ideally located on one of Lviv’s most central thorough- is in a lovely Austrian built house from the 1800’s, and fares, Retro has a lot to offer. Choose from a single bed in a is 15 minutes from Market Square (Ploscha Rynok) and private room to a bed in a room with 13 potential new best the main train station or 5 minutes by tram. Breakfast friends and everything in between. Most rooms are spacious, is not included in the on-line rates but is available for a and all rooms come with air-conditioning and security lockers. surcharge. Q3 rooms (1 singles 220Hr, 1 doubles 290Hr, Prices are competitive and the staff is very pleasant. A wide 1 triples 390Hr, Additional bed 90Hr). A6W range of amenities are available including airport transfer, 24 hour reception, Wi-Fi and Internet access, breakfast (for an additional 2 euros), parking, tours, kitchen, bar, restaurant, Out of town barbecue area, pool table and hot tub. Q14 rooms (singles 189Hr, doubles 109Hr, triples 75Hr, quads 5Hr, 6-bed dorm Vezha Vedmezha Tsotsora natural boundary, Volo- 63Hr, 8-bed dorm 63Hr, 14-bed dorm 52Hr). JARW syanka village, Skolivs’kyi district, Lviv Region, tel. Soviet Home Hostel Drukars’ka 3, tel. (+380) 93 319 (+380) 67 474 44 74/(+380) 97 410 53 10, fax 67 97, [email protected], www.homehostels. (+380) 32 276 16 61, [email protected], vv-hotel. org. Soviet Home offers the fascinating experience of living com/inner_en.html. If you need to flee the city or just in a typical Soviet-era flat with two important exceptions: want to get high on crisp mountain air, this is the place modern bathrooms and beds. Just a couple blocks from for you. Located in a picturesque nook of the Carpathian Rynok ploscha, the location is truly exceptional. Select from Mountains, not far from the Slavs’ke ski resort, this cosy six and ten bed dorms, and private triple, twin and single castle features 25 uniquely furnished suites. The “Vezha” rooms. Breakfast, linens, towels, luggage storage and even a suite is the pride of the hotel, and features a romantic city tour are included. The hostel also offers Internet, 24 hour fireplace and breathtaking panoramic views. All suites reception, washing machines and pickup service from the are equipped with satellite TV, telephone, safe, mini-bar airport and train station (call for details). Q4 rooms (singles and hair dryer. Specialising in corporate team-building 190 - 200Hr, doubles 150 - 170Hr, triples 140 - 150Hr, 6-dorm events, attendees may choose from a variety of activities 90 - 100Hr, 10-dorm 95 - 100Hr). R6GW such as the medieval themed “Brave Heart” programme, mountain rescue, rafting and much more. One final note The Georgehouse hostel G-3, Ustyyanovycha 8, of interest: Vezha Vedmezha won in “The Brightest New apt.1, tel. (+380) 50 430 64 54, [email protected], Hotel” category at the 2008 Ukrainian Travel Awards. www.georgehouse.com.ua. A great place for “Art Deco” Q26 rooms (20 doubles 700 - 850Hr, 5 suites 950 lovers! Uniquely designed in a very friendly and clean environ- - 1600Hr, 1 apartments 1900Hr). PHA6LG� ment. Even the bathroom cups match the design scheme. It is KDC hhhh worth the visit just to feel the experience. There are 2 rooms: one for 4 and another for 8 people. The kitchen is equipped with refrigerator, microwave, and electric kettle. Additional services are free tea and coffee, phone, hair dryer, TV in each room, Wi-Fi, lockers, laundry, and 24 hour reception. Parking is available. Located not far from the city centre near the St. George Cathedral. Q quads 115Hr, 8-bed dorm 95Hr The Kosmonaut B-6, Tomashivskoho 4, apt. 5, tel. (+380) 93 655 42 19, [email protected], www. thekosmonaut.com. The Kosmonaut has become Lviv’s most popular hostel for one simple reason: the staff genuinely care about each and every guest. The enthusiasm they exude for their city is infectious. They know all the hotspots and never hesitate to let you in on where to go and what to do. You’re sure to find yourself in the company of a fascinating and eclectic crowd of fellow travellers. We sat down for the complementary breakfast of baked apple, tea and toast and quickly found ourselves swapping life stories with two Peace Corps volunteers, a Dutch pensioner, an “AWOL” American soldier, two stranded Russian journalists and a Croat in town to find a Geiger counter. A communal kitchen, free Internet and Wi-Fi and laundry are also available. Q singles €12, doubles €10, quads €9, 6-bed dorm €9, 10-bed dorm €8,

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Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 23

lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 24 Restaurants

Many of the main dishes are priced per 100 gram so ask the Symbol key server for approximate size in order to avoid confusion when the bill arrives. Menus in English are available upon request. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Also at A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 58 86. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. T Child friendly S Take away Kentavr C-3, Rynok pl. 34, tel. (+380) 322 72 05 12. V Home delivery U Facilities for the disabled Kentavr is the mythical god with the head and torso of a man G I and body of a horse. Oddly enough, Kentavr has no connec- Non-smoking areas Fireplace tion to this restaurant or its cuisine, but it is a pretty kick-butt O Casino 6 Animal friendly mascot. The dining area has a laid back atmosphere with inspiring paintings, some of which are the work of local paint- L Guarded parking E Live music ers and can be purchased. Ukrainian and European dominate B Terrace W Wi-Fi internet access the menu. Varenyky, pork dishes of all shapes and sizes and savoury fish dishes are some of the highlights. Rich desserts, such as the chocolate “Praga” cake, four types of strudel and cheesecake, go great with the specialty teas, which Lviv’s dining scene is a reflection of the city’s incredibly arrive to the table in fancy pots. Brunch is served daily from rich and diverse history. Every corner of global cuisine is 11:00-13:00. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALEGSW represented (French, Greek, Italian, Viennese, Jewish, Asian, American, Latin, etc.), and local Ukrainian and Halytska Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa G-2, Kleparivs’ka 18, (Galician) restaurants are among the finest in Ukraine. In tel. (+380) 32 242 25 94, www.robertdoms.lviv.ua. the historic centre, you’re never more than a couple steps Robert Doms, an aristocratic young Swiss man, brought his away from your next dining experience, and the standard brewing talent to Lviv Brewery in the 1850s. Every morning of service is excellent. With so many establishments to a young Lvivian maiden named Zosia would bring Robert a choose from, we hope that this guide serves as the solution five litre tankard of the previous day’s brew, which he would to the overwhelming question: What’s for dinner? guzzle (a crude but effective means of quality control). With the help of his extremely thick beer-goggles, Robert soon fell in love and married Zosia. The pub, located in one of Ukrainian Lvivske Brewery’s cellars (a 15 minute walk from centre) is Dim Legend D-4, Staroyevreis’ka 48, tel. (+380) 67 a fitting tribute to Rob’s contribution to Lviv’s beer industry 670 38 28, [email protected], www.lokal.lviv.ua. This and to his and Zosia’s touching romantic tale. The energy restaurant-café has become something of a legend in Lviv. here is unmatched in Lviv and live music echoes through the It is located on 7 small floors with a real ‘Trabi’ sitting on cellar’s halls nightly. With hearty Ukrainian meals served for the roof top terrace with a great view of old Lviv. Each floor up to six, the fantastic menu encourages a communal dining has a different theme telling the story of Lviv. One room has experience. Who knows, guzzle enough fresh brew and you the clocks, another depicting the lions of Lviv, another tun- too might hook-up with your own Zosia. QOpen 12:00 - nels, etc. No visit to Lviv is complete without stopping here! 24:00. AEGS QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.. Medivnia B-3, Krakivska 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 41. Garbuz I-3, Ivana Franka 15, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 51, The name Medivnia translates “Honey Brewery”. It is located www.garbuz.lviv.ua. No time to wait for a meal? The Garbuz in the heart of the old city. The interior design is fascinating, is a lovely place to get ready made food. It is very delicious, of with pictures, and artifacts of “old Ukraine”. The cuisine is good quality, and inexpensive. One cannot miss it; the front door a large variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes, meat, poultry, is very unusual, like opening a giant pumpkin. This restaurant fish, and vegetables. The Ukrainian ribs with honey sauce has its own original style; with massive oak tables, metal was delicious! There is an English menu, though it takes made into whimsical lamps, and the royal chairs. It is actually some effort to understand the “Ukrainian-English”. It was a an indescribable design. We strongly suggest viewing the web lot of fun actually as the server was very friendly. We forgot site. At lunch time, the tempo moves quickly. In the evening it something at our table, and the server went out of his way is another story. The Pumpkin is transformed into a cosy pub to find someone who could speak English and had them call with fresh draft beer and a lots of TV monitors for sports fans. the number on my business card. This doesn’t happen that In fact, a large room with a giant TV is already in place for the often in Ukraine. The house speciality is called “medovukha”, 2012 football championship games. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, an alcoholic drink steeped in natural honey and herbs, which Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAEGW has been brewed the same way since the 18th century. It Hors C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 235 41 57, was the traditional brew drunk by the Cossacks. Medivnia www.hors.com.ua. Hors was the Slavic god of the winter has very reasonable prices and is a place we would love to sun whom ancient Lvivian pagans associated with healing return to. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB and survival. The stairs leading to the restaurant have been Panska Charka I-3, Vynnychenka 3, tel. (+380) 32 described as “fifteen stairs to the 15th century”. You are not 235 53 91/(+380) 97 205 48 41. A lovely Ukrainian entering a basement, this is actually a renovated section of restaurant with inside and outside seating. The specialty an ancient catacomb and the rocks that line the base of the is ‘home made’ liquors (nastoyanka) made from honey, fruit, arched walls were set in the 15th century. The unique mysteri- herbs and even horse radish. The staff was extremely friendly ous atmosphere is definitely worth checking out, but don’t and the English menu has traditional Ukrainian food, one can get too distracted as the menu offers its own intrigue with even order a boars head for that special large gathering of items like salmon with spinach, steaks and dishes dedicated to the Slavic gods. Live music is performed Thursday-Sunday. friends. The are smoking and non-smoking halls and kive QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW music from 20:00 to 22:00 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Liqueurs can be bought as souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. International Varenyky Fund (IVF) C-3, Katedralna pl. PAEGBSW 3, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 96. My hippy aunt, still suffering acid flashbacks, may well have been the interior decorator. Porokhova Vezha D-3, Pidval’na 4, tel. (+380) 32 Pelmeni are ordered individually, and go for 142 kopeks per 276 51 62. This popular eatery can be a bit tricky to find. unit. Varenyky come stuffed with a variety of tasty fillings It’s located across the street from the Dominican Cathedral including mashed potatoes, cheese, cabbage and cherries. in the ancient looking fortress with the two smirking lions Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 25

lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 26 Restaurants

perched on the steps. Enter through the north side. Locals and travellers alike are attracted by the reasonable priced Ukrainian favourites and snug atmosphere perfect for enjoy- ing a glass of wine. The summer terrace with shashlyk grill is a popular cooling-off/filling-up point for hikers ascending and descending Vysokyi Zamok Mount. English is in short supply, but the servers are charming and patient (they’ve seen your kind before). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. GBS Salo Restaurant & Museum B-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 36, www.artsalo.com. Salo is a bit like a museum, but more like a contemporary art space. In the restaurant area you’ll be offered a Salo Art Menu which contains some uniquely sculptured forms of salo. (FYI-Salo is pure pig fat, a Ukrainian delicacy) We liked the chocolate covered salo! There is live music, DJ or something going on every Saturday. One can also order from the menus of neighbouring Bianco Rosso and Yappi restaurants. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PA6ESW Seven Piggies G-4, Stepana Bandery 9, tel. (+380) 32 297 55 58, www.7piggies.com.ua. The classic Ukrainian khata (hut) ambiance and attentive service make this a fine choice for those looking to sample the local cuisine. The only drawbacks are its locale, just far enough from old town to make you think twice, and the prices are slightly above average. Many of the main courses - king salmon steak, “Cossack” beefsteak, pork ribs - are priced per 100 grams. Traditional soups, salads and horilka (vodka) are plentiful and the fresh squeezed juices and chocolate cake are worth adding to the order. Banquets can be booked for up to 25, and the banquet menu is loaded with delights such as stuffed sturgeon, baked piglet and specialty duck, goose and turkey dishes. Menus in English are available upon request. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAIEGS Armenian Krakivska Brama B-3, Krakivs’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 236 72 73. Though European, Carpathian (Hutsul) and Ukrainian are all represented on the menu, the delicious authentic Armenian is what sets this place apart. We recommend tak- ing a seat in the basement near the flavourful mangal (grill), where chefs meticulously roast Lulya kabob, mutton shashlyk, sea trout and other traditional delicacies. If you would like to keep the good times rolling after hours, it will set you back 150Hr per hour. Also, it’s definitely worth keeping this eatery in mind for breakfast; the omelettes and crêpes come with complimentary tea and toast. Banquets can be organised for up to 50, and tour groups are welcome to place orders in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAUIGBS Taron Kuznevycha 16A, tel. (+380) 32 237 70 35, www.taron.lviv.ua. A short drive outside the centre brings one to this beautifully decorated restaurant. The staff speak English and the menu is also in English offering Armenian, Georgian, Caucasian, and European dishes. Prices are a bit pricy but well worth it. There are large seating areas both smoking and non smoking and 6 outside dining bungalows. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PTALEGBSW Asian Pan Tao Kryms’ka 28, tel. (+380) 32 225 77 40/ (+380) 32 225 77 30, www.pantao.com.ua. Pan Tao is a stylish restaurant with an impressive and exotic kitchen. Sample some of the Orient’s finest culinary traditions includ- ing Peking Duck, a signature frog’s legs dish and a variety of delicious desserts. With more than 100 vintages from all over the world, it’s no surprise that the sommelier is one of the more popular staff members. Flavourful and relaxing, the tea ceremonies are worth savouring until the last drop. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PAEGS

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Sushi Kappo-IN D-6, Levyts’koho 8, tel. (+380) 32 245 31 09. Sushi Kappo’s ultra-relaxing atmosphere literally put me to sleep; the charming waitress had to startle me awake in order to keep me from falling face first into the plate. The previous night had been a wild one (as is often the case in Lviv) and Kappo’s zesty selection of sushi was just what the doctor ordered. Located on the edge of centre, it’s well worth the 10 minute walk. QOpen 10:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PLVGS Yapi B-4, Svobody prosp. 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 28 01, www.egoisty.com. This “Sushi Island” is uniquely designed with a large Sushi and Japanese menu. Staff is helpful and Englsih speaking. We found the music a bit too loud for a restaurant, otherwise it was great! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBS Yapona Hata C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 297 51 17, www.yaponahata.com. The name suggests a Japanese take on the Ukrainian “khatas” that dominate the country‘s low budget dining market. We were understandably surprised by the relatively high prices, but (as we say in the West) you get what you pay for. The location is exceptional and the inventive sushi choices more than justify the blow to your wallet. QOpen 24hrs. PAGBSW Austro-Hungarian Brudershaft I-2, Virmens’ka 16/1, tel. (+380) 32 235 42 43/(+380) 50 822 04 12, www.brudershaft.com.ua. Have you ever wanted to travel back in time 100 years? Here’s your chance. Visit a mini-museum of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This quaint local is right in the heart of the old centre. On display in one room are costumes, guns and other items and photos. The other room is a “hunting theme” with various a game heads on display. The friendly staff also acts as museum guides. The menu offers unique ‘hunting dishes” and a European cuisine, very reasonably priced.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. A6U Czech Praga (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32 260 24 42, www.praga.lviv.ua. The interior of this popular Czech restaurant is decorated in Art Nouveau and is set-off by reproductions of the tastefully provocative art of Alphonse Mucha. An English menu is in the works. For now, just close your eyes, point to an item and you won’t be disappointed. The professional English speaking staff is at your service to help with your selection. Praga knows how to roast (especially pork) and all dishes swim in rich flavour. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW European Atmosphera C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. (+380) 32 235 88 99/(+380) 67 313 06 26, www.atmosphera. lviv.ua. For Ukrainians, atmosphere is everything. Current dining trends represent a revolt against the drab stand-up Soviet lunch counters and cafés that were once the only option. Atmosphera offers “creative” Euro cuisine to go with the ultra-chic ambiance. The menu features steaks (pork and veal) and intriguing dishes such as Mafaldine pasta with cold smoked salmon, red caviar, cream and parmesan cheese. This venue also houses a business meeting room and a popular pub/club. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. ESW

€1 = 10.12Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.55Hr (22 June 2012 official rates) lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 28 Restaurants

Amadeus C-4, Katedralna pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 50 Brewery 22. Near the Latin Cathedral - one of the most beautiful Lviv Catholic churches and right in the heart of the city, a covered Kumpel D-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 summer terrace of this popular restaurant catches the eye 80. The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two immediately. With one of the most eclectic menus of Galycia, large vats where Kumpel beer is brewed. It’s definitely it’s hard to go wrong and the pork steak Amadeus comes worth your time to sample all three varieties (dark, light highly recommended. Familiarity in service standards, a fan- and red). We were particularly impressed by the incredibly tastic breakfast/brunch menu and a posh but not too over fresh and lively light. The menu is loaded with steaks, the top atmosphere make this a popular expat haunt. It is seafood and beer munchies. For exceptional service, also a favourite place of many politicians, businessmen and just push the little call button. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. diplomats. US ambassador to Ukraine likes visiting Amadeus PAGBS while staying in Lviv. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAB Mons Pius: Beer and Meat C-3, Lesi Ukrainky Casanova C-3, Stavropihiys’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 236 14 (Armenian Yard), tel. (+380) 32 235 60 60. Every 75 74. Travel back to Venice in the time of Giacomo Girolamo new Lviv’s thematic restaurant becomes a must see point Casanova who was so famous as a womanizer that his name on the city’s map. And not only for another delicious dish remains synonymous with the art of seduction. This is a or a Live beer, but for feeling its atmosphere and seeing combination restaurant-strip club. The outside terrace area unique interior. This steak lovers paradise was tricky to (seasonal) appears to be a normal restaurant. Inside, one is find but well worth it. Mons Pius occupies the building of stuck with the beauty of early Venice. A great eatery in the old Armenian Bank, which name the restaurant also took day time with erotic shows at night beginning at 23:00. The after. The specialties of the knaipa (a kind of a tavern in staff was quite friendly and spoke some English. There is Ukrainian) are various types of beer and even more various an Italian-European menu with a businessman’s lunch from meat dishes. We’ve tried their exclusive draft beer Mons Monday to Friday for only 45Hr as well as a tourist menu for Pius. During the summer days take a seat in a cosy and groups making advanced bookings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. pleasant courtyard, where small concerts often take place. PAIGSW The service was very pleasant and if you’re interesting as we are in details you’ll be told the fascinating history Darwin B-3, Shevs’ka 6, 5th floor, tel. (+380) 32 294 of Mons Pius. English is spoken and all were friendly and 82 05. The name Darwin was chosen not only as a tribute to efficient. The menu is in English and offers T-bone steak the father of evolutionary theory but as a symbolic statement from 105Hr, soups and salads from 30-60Hr. QOpen announcing the embodiment of the evolution and refinement 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBW of Lviv’s restaurant scene. Located on the fifth and sixth floor of a renovated historic structure, the elegant atmosphere is Stargorod Brewery D-5, Rymlianyna 1 (Mytna framed by enticing views of surrounding ancient roof tops. The Ploscha), tel. (+380) 32 229 55 05, www.stargorod. menu contains one of the most elaborate seafood selections net. Don’t let the name fool you! It’s not just a brewery found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea bass and that makes its own traditional “Live” Czech beer. It’s one savoury salmon dishes. There’s also an enticingly unique of the largest restaurants we have ever seen in Ukraine. offering of game such as wild boar under cherry sauce and We were told that between the 2 floors, 300-400 peo- wine basted venison. Being a popular cigar club, the finest ple could be seated at one time. Aside from the “Live” smokes are available and smoking is permitted throughout beer, which only lasts 20 minutes after it is taken out of the restaurant. Popular with locals and tourists alike, Darwin the basement; There is the “Desiatka”-a light beer, the “Lager”- a pils type, and ‘Black”- a dark beer. As for the tends to be busy on the weekends making advanced booking PW food, the chef, Radek Koniechny, is a 3rd generation Czech the way to go. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. cook. He has also worked in Austria and Germany. So the Europe C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 14, tel. (+380) 32 261 menu is a combination of a lot of classic dishes from the 19 71, www.restourant-europa.com. With its tasteful countries where he has worked. Sports broadcasts can atmosphere, Europe is perfect for a relaxed or romantic be viewed on 3 big screens and 20 monitors.QOpen meal. The menu is simple but exquisite; even with the lim- 24hrs. PAULEGBW ited selection you’ll have a hard time deciding between the succulent fish, meat and poultry dishes. The wine card and cocktail selection are scanty so go with food on your mind. A minimum bill charge of 250Hr applies for using the private Georgian dining area. Located upstairs (watch your step) it can accom- modate up to 10, but is lacking in elbow room. Great break- Staryi Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) J-3, Pekars’ka 28, tel. fast specials are available daily. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (+380) 32 276 61 11. Georgians are known throughout PTALGBW Eastern Europe as masters of the grill, and the chefs at Fashion Club B-4, Ivana Pidkovy pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 Staryi Tiflis uphold this stereotype. Chicken wings, lamb, 272 88 91. Fashion Club is fronted by one of Svobody pros- pork, veggies and even beef tongue are all roasted to pect’s largest and most popular outdoor seating areas. The perfection over open flames. Whenever pouring snifters of cognac, a friend of ours from Tbilisi likes to joke, “It’s ambiance of the restaurant area isn’t quit as fashionable as always useful to keep a bottle of French or Armenian one might expect, nevertheless, the kitchen is open ‘round cognac around the house - you need something to clean the clock’ and whips up a plethora of European: English the glasses out before pouring the good Georgian stuff.” breakfast for late night partiers/early-birds, Italian antipasto Indeed, Georgians are extremely proud of their cognac for lunch and T-bone steaks and filet mignon for dinner. The and aromatic wines, and Staryi Tiflis has some of the club is located in the back, attracts some of the more talented better brands on hand. They also keep some French and local DJs and is open nightly from 11:00 to 5:00. No admission Armenian behind the bar in case you notice some spots fee Monday through Wednesday. Thursday is ladies’ night on your glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAVGSW and Friday through Sunday attracts a diverse and vibrant crowd. QOpen 24 hrs.

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lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 30 Restaurants

Garmata H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 Cheap & Quick 82 22, www.citadel-inn.com.ua. Located at the enthral- ling Citadel Inn, this elegant restaurant offers an inspiring Acropolis С-3, Ploscha Rynok 44, tel. (+380) 67 463 panorama of Lviv, excellent European cuisine and a spa- 09 06. This small gem was a great find. It is located on a cious dining hall with unforgettable ambiance reminiscent beautiful square in the centre of the old city. There are only of 19th century Austria. The walls are decorated in various 4 tables so we had to come back and take a chance at a historical themes, and the engrossing decorative rugs display later time. We were glad we did! The menu is limited, but ancient maps of Lviv. Though this is one of Lviv’s romantic it’s real “Greek Food” at very reasonable prices. We were hotspots, it is also ideal for banquets, business meetings told that when the weather warms up, they put many tables and hooking up with friends. The citadel’s cannons are fired outside and then they add moussaka and other items to the on special occasions, and a children’s room is also available. menu. A great place to eat or just have a drink and spend QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALGBSW time with your friends. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. GBW Grand Hotel Restaurant B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. DeMandjaro C-4, Halyts’ka 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 (+380) 32 272 40 91. Known for its attention to detail and 01 71. The selection is quite impressive for a fast food service standards that cater specifically to foreign travellers, joint. Choose from pizzas, burgers, steaks, shashlyk, Grand Hotel Restaurant is perfect for both romantic dinners potatoes, ice cream, cakes, etc. Items are listed in Ukrain- and lively business luncheons. Ukrainian and European ian only, but luckily for us words like “steak”, “burger” and cuisine make up a menu highlighted by the kitchen’s own “pizza” don’t need a translation. Though popular with poor creations. For a memorable bite of Lviv, try the Grand Hotel students and budget minded families, the entrance and pork (stuffed grilled pork served in a coconut milk and pepper outdoor seating area happens to be on Halyts’ka vul., sauce) and the Grand Hotel cake (a secret recipe chocolate one of Lviv’s most classy and romantic streets. Also at cake). Located on Lviv’s main strolling prospects, the sum- Staroyevreis’ka 4, Doroshenka 19, prosp. Chervonoi Ka- mer terrace is one of the city’s most popular dining spots. lyna 36. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTAUVGBS QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAULEGBSW Hit-Café A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 Kupava E-2, Komarova 17, tel. (+380) 32 245 03 45, 67 88. Hit offers up familiar western favourites including www.kupavahotel.com. The restaurant has to be seen to pizza, spaghetti and club sandwiches; tempting grill and be believed. It is divided into several sections, extravagantly meat dishes like steaks and kebobs; and a splattering styled as though being in an old Ukrainian indoor-outdoor of traditional Ukrainian treats such as borsht and pickled hunting lodge. The English menu is reasonably priced with a herring under a coat. It’s possible to satisfy your hunger daily complete menu for 55Hr. The staff was very friendly and for less than 30Hr under an atmosphere a step up from helpful. QOpen 24hrs A6LEGBW the standard fast food joint. Also at B-6, Johara Dudaeva Lev Restaurant B-3, Teatral’na 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 17 72; F-4, Kyivs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 95 15. Everything about the Leopolis Hotel is stunning and 32 237 77 67; F-3, Mytropolyta Andreya 8, tel. (+380) 32 superior, and the hotel’s restaurant is no exception. Amazingly, 237 77 21. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, this could be the best value for hryvnia in town. In the west, when Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PTA6B we go out for a cream-of-the-crop experience we expect to pay Kartopliana Khata D-5, Lychakivs’ka 4-6, tel. cream-of-the-crop prices; you’ll be shocked at how affordable (+380) 32 242 05 26. This is a cowboy, Indian and this place really is. Highlights include a Carpathian meat kebab, Che Guevara themed fast food joint where patrons can juicy mushroom risotto, rich lamb chops and a zesty sea bass. order a baked potato served in small bowl and topped Servers are well acquainted with western standards and speak with scrumptious titbits. Burritos, “spicy” wings, barbeque fluent English. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA6IEGSW ribs and traditional salads are also on hand. A popular Livyi Bereh H-2, Svobody prosp. 28 (Opera House base- lunch spot, this is a nice choice if you’re in a rush. QOpen ment), tel. (+380) 67 443 33 63. Walking on the rickety 09:00 - 22:00. PAGS bridges going over an underground river was reminiscent of the Puzata Khata A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 12, tel. Disney attraction “Pirates of the Caribbean”. Once inside, the (+380) 32 244 87 28, www.puzatakhata.kiev.ua. theme is “Opera” with old posters of past Ukrainian & European Albeit a low-budget, family-friendly, Puzata Khata has a singers everywhere. The décor is basically surrealistic and should knack for establishing itself in prime locations. This is be seen to be believed. There is a limited menu of European & true of the Lviv restaurant sandwiched between Svobody Ukrainian cuisine at an average cost of 130-150Hr. There are prosp. and Ivan Franko National University. All restaurants starters, soups, salads, burgers, and dishes of chicken, fish, in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrain- and tasty steaks. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PTAESW ian dishes. The interiors are inventive and usually combine Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya Halychyny (The Most a 19th century theme with a touch of local flare. Fill your Expensive Galician Restaurant) C-4, Rynok pl. 14, belly for only a few bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also tel. (+380) 50 430 87 83. At first we thought that the word at Horodotska 300 (open 08:00 - 22:00) PAIGS “Expensive” was a mistranslation, but then we opened the menu…Don’t be frightened by the prices, if you show interest Steak House J-4, Pekars’ka 31, tel. (+380) 32 276 67 06. Steak house is a nice twist on the low budget in the restaurant’s Masonic theme, your waiter is likely to give lunch/dinner counter in that it offers a freshly grilled piece you a “10 times cheaper” discount card. As we entered, an at- of carcass to go with all the usual ala carte salads and tendant dressed us in the Masonic apron, and then introduced side dishes. There’s no English available so allow us to this fascinating cult. It was quite revealing how influential the introduce some vocabulary that will help with your order: Masons have been in shaping world history. Benjamin Franklin, for a beef steak say “steak z yalovichini”, for a pork steak George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Peter the Great and local “steak z svinini” and for grilled chicken “steak z kuryatini”. heroes Mykhailo Hrushevsky and Ivan Franko were all Masons. Their specialty, the “lambada”, is a massive, spicy pork This place is brimming with fascinating symbolism, relics and steak garnished with crisp lettuce, pineapple, sweet pep- tales, and the menu ain’t bad either. The centrepiece is an pers and corn. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. S antique piano on which a pianist performs Friday - Sunday from 20:00 - 23:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAGW Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 31

Maestro Restaurant-Lounge bar H-2, Lazneva 3A, tel. (+380) 32 225 00 16/(+380) 67 310 48 47, www.maes- tro.lviv.ua. A spacious modern establishment in a small park, Help make Lviv better! just a short stroll from the Opera. The cuisine is international and superb with an average meal costing 250Hr. The restaurant Leave your comments offers live music nightly from 19:00 - 23:00. On Fridays & Satur- days everything changes and the restaurant becomes a trendy disco till the wee hours of the morning. Inside there is seating (good or bad) at for 150 and there are plans for an outside terrace this spring. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. PAGW lviv.inyourpocket.com and Nostalgia C-4, Serbska 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 77 50. This is actually a proper restaurant located on a side street we’ll make sure business from the market square. (Ploshcha Rynok).There is a com- fortable atmosphere this candle lit two room restaurant. The interior is as the name suggests nostalgic and deemed remi- owners get them! niscent of France in the early 1900’ss. The staff is friendly and try to communicate in English There is an English menu which lists many Ukrainian and international dishes or let’s say their own variation of Dutch, French, German, and Spanish dishes; Seafood Liver Berlin style, Chicken Curry Madrid way, Salmon French style, and Jerusalem carp, just to name a few. Exotic appetis- Panorama A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32 ers include tongue, brain, and Dutch Fondue. There is also a 225 90 09, www.panorama.lviv.ua. Located on the very busy banquet room. Prices are very reasonable and it seventh floor of the Opera Hotel, Panorama offers an is a great place to visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW unmatched view of the Opera House and of Lviv’s historic centre. The summer terrace and the tables closest to the Shakespeare Lyubins’ka 144, tel. (+380) 32 295 52 view are extremely popular. Booking ahead will insure a 95, fax (+380) 32 295 48 68, www.shekspir.lviv.ua. spectacular evening. The eclectic menu reads like poetry: Shakespeare fans - this is for you! A restaurant dedicated to the “Veal medallions with forest mushrooms and black truffle Bard. Located near the airport, with lovely gardens, and outdoor sauce”. The Caesar salad has procured a cult following dining bungalows, it is an experience worth having. The staff and the crab soup is unbelievably rich. If you’re hoping is dressed in kilts and the menu caters to many nationalities. to spark a new romance or just kick start an old love, There are 2 large dining rooms with smoking and non-smoking this is the obvious place to start or finish your evening. areas. They even sell copies of Shakespeare’s greatest works! QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PTALEGBSW QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PA6UILEGBSW

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Split Club Lviv B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 6/7, tel. (+380) American 32 242 22 00, www.split.lviv.ua. Split is a one-stop- shop for all your dining, drinking and entertainment needs. The Grill B-3, Teatralna 22, Kinopalace Cinema, tel. The Irish pub blends with a stylish restaurant that serves (+380) 32 235 49 91, www.thegrill.com.ua. Steak, Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. The restaurant Wok, and Roll! A friendly Cowboy greeted us at the door. also features a private dining room where an itamae whips So a country western atmosphere should be inside right? up inventive sushi dishes for up to eight. Split’s strip club is Yes and no. Yes if one wants to sit on the ground floor renowned for its incredibly talented dancers and is open from smoking section. No if one wants non-smoking. Then 22:00 - 04:00. The club’s specialty is the aqua show, in which it’s down stairs to the beautifully oriental designed non- the dancer takes a shower! Private, lap and table dances are smoking area. The menus, and there several of them, are also available. A 100Hr admission applies for the strip club. available in both sections. We opted for the “country” QOpen 24hrs. PTAILEGSW section, as this seems a bit of a rare experience Ukraine. The Lion’s Castle G-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 238 61 In the afternoon it seemed like an endless supply of Elvis 16, www.lioncastlehotel.com/en. Located in the basement albums were being played. In the evening there was a of the Lion’s Castle Hotel, the reasonable prices and large por- guitar soloist with harmonica. All menus are in English with pictures and graphic illustrations. There is a large tions justify the 20 minute walk from old town. The juicy Lion’s Drink menu offering delicious homemade beer. The sushi Castle pork special, for example, is a whopping 450 grams and menu has dishes listed with names of some U.S. cities will set you back a mere ten bucks. There’s enough variety on the and states. The steak menu has diagrams and explana- menu to appeal to just about everyone. Creamy soups, crêpes tions of different cuts of meat. It’s something that a lot and salmon dishes are particularly appealing. The breakfast of restaurants and meat sellers seem to ignore. We tried buffet is popular with hotel guests, so arrive early if you’re hop- the sirloin, rare. The old saying “it seems to melt in your ing to get a good seat. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PALG mouth” certainly applies here! There are also BBQ, Lamb, Trapezna I-3, Valova 18A, tel. (+380) 32 295 69 68, fax and mixed dishes on this menu. The fish and poultry (+380) 32 254 61 55, www.idem.org.ua. The meaning of menu as well as the soup, salad, and side order menus Trapenza is “monks eating room”. Located in the cellar of a are divided into East for Oriental - West for U.S. Country former monastery, this is really traditional Ukrainian food at style. So is the pasta/rice, garnish, and desert menu. its best with low prices. The menu is in a metal book and in QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGW English. Drinks are served in old wooden cups and sometimes one hears the Ghost walking about late at night! There is also an adjoining art gallery and outside seating as well. A real Pizza experience! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. T6GBW Try Mitly (Three Brooms) I-2, Yavors’koho 1, tel. Celentano C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. (+380) 32 (+380) 32 236 75 55/(+380) 67 374 50 04. Don’t be 235 56 84, www.pizza-celentano.com. This estab- surprised if Harry Potter or one of his companions is stand- lished pizzeria chain champions democracy by granting ing in the doorway. The theme is Harry Potter through and patrons the choice of their own favourite toppings from through. It is basically a family restaurant with costumes a wide range of possibilities. Various salads, crêpes with & magic wands given to children to use during their stay. different fillings and pasta dishes are also on offer. Do There are copies of some of the props used in the films, the roof of your mouth a favour and let the extremely and there is memorabilia scattered throughout. There hot pizza cool before consumption. Friendly service and are lessons given in wizardry and many HP fans visit from speedy delivery have become this in-and-out pizzeria’s abroad. The food is prepared by an elf and the dishes all trademarks. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Kopernika have names related to wizardry & sorcery (soon in English). 9; prosp. Svobody 24; Slovatskoho 16; Volodymyra Vely- An average meal goes for about 100-150Hr. Seating for 30+. koho 123; Vyhovskoho 47a; Horodotska 141. PGBS QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. TGBW New York Street Pizza A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 5, Veronika C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 21, tel. (+380) 32 298 tel. (+380) 32 272 27 57/(+380) 32 260 19 43, fax 60 28, www.veronika.lviv.ua. On a day when most eateries (+380) 32 260 16 43, www.pizza-nys.com.ua. When were deserted, Veronika only had a couple tables available in I asked for onions on my pizza the server looked at me as the basement. But you wouldn’t be surprised if you know that if I had a second head growing out of my ear. “Onions on Veronika is the oldest and probably the best city confectionery. pizza? Don’t be ridiculous.” I rescanned the toppings list to Sweets made by old Austrian-Hungarian recipes are really deli- make sure I wasn’t the butt of a practical joke. Indeed…no cious. You won’t find any other confectionary in Lviv with such onions. You can top your pie with imitation crab sticks and a wide selection of candies, biscuits and cakes. Menu of the corn, but no onions. I settled for salami and mushrooms restaurant (it is in the lower part of institution) is mostly European and it turned out to be quite tasty. Though “Ukrainian” with some Ukrainian and a sprinkling of other world favourites. Street Pizza would be a more fitting name, this is a nice The “plump” menu of the restaurant includes vegetarian dishes, pick for those in a hurry and short of cash. QOpen 10:00 breakfasts, seafood, meat, desserts. Choose from four varieties - 23:00. Also at Tershakivtsiv 5; Volodymyra Velykoho 5; of fondue, an impressive selection of fish dishes and mouth Chervonoyi Kalyny 31; Patona 37; Stefanyka 4; Henerala watering breads and desserts baked fresh on site. With western Chuprynky 36; Sviatoho Teodora 2. PGBS classics such as the European breakfast croissant with ham and veggies, this is winning choice for breakfast. Vine map contains Pizzeria La Grotta B-3, Krakivska 9, tel. (+380) 32 best French, Italian, Spanish, Australian, Argentinian, North 276 60 69. Stepping into La Grotta we almost thought we American and Chilly vines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AGBS were in Italy. Before our very eyes was a real Italian stone pizza oven. The piazza was delicious and there is also a Vezha Kramariv (Merchant Tower) B-3, Svobody prosp. wide range of traditional Ukrainian cuisine. The menu is 16-18, tel. (+380) 32 272 39 39. While feasting in this res- in English and the staff is very friendly and helpful. Very taurant’s tower, it’s easy to imagine what supper would have reasonable prices! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGB been like at the home of a medieval merchant. On the third floor you’ll find bear skin rugs, a stuffed beaver, a jack-a-lope minus Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 33

the horns and other sorted items, which add to the motif. The choice of the chef’s signature sauces. Like the hotel, the summer terrace is one of the most popular warm-weather spots restaurant is quaint but classy and the hidden wine cellar is on Svobody. The Dutch KaasDoop fondue is large enough feed an absolute gem. With seating for up to eight, it’s a perfect a small partisan army, the barbeque items are in high demand place to unwind and sample a select vintage from the hotel’s and the chef’s original creations - such as the salmon steak collection. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AGBW stewed with sour cream, apples and bananas - are definitely stimulating. We sampled the stewed pork (tasty, but a bit on the greasy side) and the baked veal medallions (tender and Halytska served with a mouth-watering compliment of fresh vegetables). Kryjivka C-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 32 254 61 18/ QOpen 24hrs. PTAIGBW (+380) 95 260 45 46, fax (+380) 322 54 61 18, www. kryjivka.com.ua. When the uniformed guard opens the peep- Vintage C-4, Staroyevreys’ka 25-27, Vintage Hotel, hole to this theme café/restaurant and says “Slava Ukraini” tel. (+380) 32 235 68 34, www.vintagehotel.com.ua. (Glory to Ukraine), that’s your cue to respond “Heroyam slava” Though selective, the menu holds nothing back. Start with (Glory to its heroes). This was the greeting used by soldiers the spicy Thai veal salad or Mediterranean salad with salmon of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) as they waged guerrilla and red caviar, drown you taste buds in the seafood goulash war against the Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 1943-49. soup or pot-au-feu, then savour the Carpathian trout in an It’s also your ticket past the guard. Once inside, you’ll find a olive and caper sauce or slurp down some pasta with your fascinating and jovial bunker complete with grenades, rifles and other military antiques. Just as the UPA was immensely popular in Lviv, so is this eatery dedicated to the memory of Mediterranean their sacrifice. Tables can be scarce, so book ahead. Tradi- tional Ukrainian dishes and spirits add to what is certain to be Nobilis I-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 84 14/ a lasting memory of your visit to Lviv. QOpen 24hrs. AW (+380) 32 295 84 16, www.nobilis-hotel.com.ua. This first class restaurant offers a gourmet blend of Restoratsiaya na Valoviy D-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 tantalizing Mediterranean cuisine and signature local 272 59 73. You can always tell how refined a restaurant is by dishes, which are certain to delight your taste sensa- the number of forks set near the plate: this place had four. The tions and surpass your expectations. An average meal dining area is decorated with classic prints and exciting original will run about 200-250Hr. The menu is in English and paintings by local artists. The chef’s dedication to flavour, aroma the staff is warm and friendly and speak English well. and presentation is tremendous; go with the understanding that The restaurant also offers romantic private dinners, quality takes time, and that all available Galician and European and bookings can be made for conferences, banquets, dishes are well worth the wait. The menu’s highlights include and weddings. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Breakfast one of the city’s best seafood selections, Hungarian style veal hours: Mon-Fri: 07:00 - 10:30, Sat-Sun 08:00 - 11:30. goulash and the Lviv pie, which is so sophisticated it must be PALEGSW ordered 24hrs in advance. Private celebrations can be booked for up to 40. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAUIEGS lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 34 Restaurants CAFés

Zolotyi Vepr C-4, Rynok pl. 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 67 La Piazza A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 94, www.vepr.net. Located in the basement of the historic 88 14. La Piazza is located on the top floor of the luxurious Vening’s House, the décor harkens back to the building’s fashion gallery Opera Passage. This pizza&pasta bar has Gothic roots. The menu offers a hearty selection of tasty the unique concept and authentic Italian cuisine. It offers 17 Ukrainian morsels. They have a great selection of veal and types of original pizza for all tastes, 16 kinds of pasta dishes, pork dishes, homemade sausages and enticing oddities original Italian antipasti, delicious desserts, opportunity to such as tongue and brains. We tried the pork in beer, which watch the process of cooking. Our choice was soup of the day turned out to be a nice treat - both filling and refreshing. (it changes each day) for 15Hr. But the most attractive thing QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GW there is its atmosphere. It is friendly and cosy and just what you need for either family/friends lunch or business meeting. During a lunch time (11:00 - 14:00) from Monday until Friday Italian take a chance to get a fat and delicious lunch for only 33Hr. Bianco Rosso B-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) For this unbelievable price you’ll be offered pasta, soup or 32 235 54 44. Pretty much the real thing! And right in the salad and drink. Among other special offers there is coffee and Centre! The Italian chef, Angelo even brought his own pasta desert for 25Hr during the week days from 14:00 until 16:00. machine with him! The décor is something like ‘Art Deco” For cocktail lovers La Piazza offers a 30% discount every night and the background music is actually enjoyable and not (21:00 - 23:30). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PGSW something one has to shout over to be heard. The menu comes in English and serves a wide variety of Italian and European cuisine and is not that expensive. The staff was very friendly and spoke English. Breakfast is from 08:30-11:30. Uzbek QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PTA6GBSW Bukhara A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 Del Pesto Siesta Restaurant H-3, T. Kostyushka 25. Reasonable prices, a unique atmosphere and hearty 6, tel. (+380) 97 461 98 87/(+380) 32 255 00 80, authentic Uzbek cuisine keep this place busy every night delpesto.lviv.ua. This restaurant is worth visiting. The décor of the week. An English menu is available upon request. is “comfortable” and one feels immediately at home. The staff The shurpa (mutton soup) was some of the best we’ve is friendly and English speaking and the cuisine is European ever sampled and the cheburek (Uzbek meat pie), pilaf & Italian. They also sell special homemade liquor which is and shashlik are all dripping with authenticity. Despite quite good. There are 4 rooms, two which are smoking and the crowded house, the food arrived quickly and with there is plenty of room for parties and banquets. An average a smile. The cosy cottage interior bends time and of- meal costs only about 100Hr, so come take advantage of this fers a view into an obscure land where most dream to oasis before it gets too crowded. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. travel, but never catch a flight. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGSW PASW

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com CAFés 35

Welcome to Ukraine’s coffee capital! Life for Lvivians revolves around the café, and it’s no wonder that there is an endless selection of establishments to choose from. In- deed, it’s theoretically possible to visit a different café eve- ryday and never see the same place twice. No matter where you end up, you’re sure to find a charming atmosphere, rich aromatic coffee and a loaded menu. The city also boasts a variety of must-visit theme cafés that brilliantly introduce and preserve the city’s diverse history and culture. If you’re a coffee lover, you’ve come to the right place. For those that are indifferent, prepare to get hooked. Backerei-café “Videnski bulochky” B-4, I-4, Kat- edralna pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 235 88 22. A deluxe bakery featuring honey cookies and deserts made from barley flour. There is a wide variety of French and Viennese pastries. A lovely place for an afternoon coffee and snack. QOpen Cukiernia C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 3, tel. (+380) 32 274 09 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. PAGSW 49, www.cukiernia.com.ua. The menu opens with a quote Black Coffee I-2, Rynok pl. 30, tel. (+380) 32 235 57 78/ from an unknown author «...only the sweet eaters are consid- (+380) 67 494 00 22, www.blackcoffee.lviv.ua. A lovely ered to be the most important members of society.» Indeed, café-restaurant right on the main square in the “Old City”. There with a name like Cukiernia (sweet shop) you’re guaranteed to are lots of choices of coffee to choose from while you read your leave with a sugar buzz. They don’t miss a page from babush- morning paper or have one of the 16 breakfasts offered. There is ka’s cookbook and bake up everything from cakes and rolls to also a “business lunch” for 40Hr from 12-16 which we found quite strudels, pastries and cookies. The tasty selection of crêpes filling. The regular menu is in English with European and Ukrainian and the Viennese breakfast make this a hotspot for brunch. cuisine and reasonably priced. The staff is friendly and speaks Local kids swarm like ravenous bees in the early afternoon for some English. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGBSW ice cream, sundaes and shakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AS Cabinet D-4, Vynnychenka 12, tel. (+380) 32 272 05 12. Cukrarka D-5, Rymlyanyna 10, tel. (+380) 32 275 74 Cabinet is the embodiment of Lviv’s coffee culture: laid-back, 74, www.cukrarka.com.ua. This essential part of Lviv’s intelligent and delicious. The defining feature is the quaint library, café-scene is located in cosy and quiet part of Old Town and which contains a small selection of works in English (mostly offer its visitors one of three cosy halls. Cukrarka is proud of guides and souvenir coffee table books). The coffee is distinc- its bakery and incredible homemade cakes. Among deserts tively rich and the offering of Ukrainian cuisine hearty. This is a place favourites are backed apple with almond and cinnamon, perfect pit-stop for those perusing the area’s numerous sites of pears in wine, ice-cream with fruits and toppings, hot chocolate interest including the Arsenal Museum, the Dominican Cathedral and numerous sweets. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALGBW and the Assumption Church. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AW Frantsishka B-3, Krakivs’ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 255 08 Café 1 C-4, Kathedral’na pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 242 33 96. Frantsishka’s mellow atmosphere is perfect for washing 69. The smell of fermented grapes is sure to perk your away the previous night’s regret(s). Milk cocktails and the nostrils as you enter this small but inviting café. The focus most extensive selection of tea in the city calm the upset here is wine, and the simple yet delectable dishes such as stomach and sooth thumping headaches. A small yet inviting ravioli and quiche Loraine compliment the full-bodied reds selection of cakes and sweets are on hand to compliment and delicate whites. Ideally located in the heart of the old the thick aromatic coffee. The only problem kicked in when town, tables can sometimes be hard to find, but any wait is the chirpy overtly bright yellow canary began to serenade the well worth it. Wonderful English speaking service is available. coffee grinder. Our initial impulse was to strangle them both, QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALGB but we quickly fell back into the calming mood and all was UGBS Charivnyi Likhtar (Magic Lantern) C-4, Ivana Fe- well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. dorova 12, tel. (+380) 32 235 74 61, www.kawa.lviv. Freska B-3, Krakivs’ka 9, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 85. As ua/en/. Charivnyi Likhtar (means Magic Lantern) is located on you take your seat the charming server will place on the table a picturesque square near the Dominican Cathedral. The estab- a cute little bell that you can ring for service. Revered for their lishment bears a part of ancient Lviv with a cosy atmosphere. classic Lviv-style coffee (rich and aromatic) and extensive tea The name derives from a legend in the middle ages. It is a Romeo card, they’re even more renowned for their uniquely delectable and Juliet type of story with monks from the cloister leading the candies, cakes and chocolate fondue. The pleasant atmos- young lovers with a lantern underground to get married against phere and summer terrace perched on Krakivs’ka vul., a lively the wishes of others. An important part of the interior is the pedestrian thoroughfare, make this a fine choice for indulging stylized lanterns and cobble stones. It’s an outdoor cafe, but in a local’s favourite pastime of lounging for hours on a café inside! English menu includes an exquisite variety of more than stool. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PGB 50 sorts of the coffee made from original recipes, some with Gasova Lyampa C-3, Virmens’ka 20, tel. (+380) 32 235 alcohol. For tea lovers there are nearly 100 items to choose 75 50. To find this fascinating eatery, head up Virmens’ka until from. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PUG you see the unmistakable bronze statue of a dude sitting next Coffee in Leopolis A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 9, tel. (+380) to a lamp. This is Ignacy Łukasiewicz, founder of the Polish oil 32 297 50 61. With a great location and mellow mood, this industry and inventor of the kerosene lamp. The restaurant/ coffee house attracts a diverse crowd: giggly high school museum housed within is a tribute to the mark he left on history. girls, buttoned-down business types, mom and pop and (An interesting side note: Łukasiewicz was not a resident of Lviv even wannabe radicals all feel at home here. Choose from by choice, but was exiled here by Austrian authorities wary of his coffee and beer cocktails, light snacks and rich desserts. The membership in a Polish revolutionary organisation.) The scene is vanilla cappuccino and steaming hot ham and cheese crêpes always energised and the menu items, especially the fish dishes, go great with a cold day. Don’t forget the beans to go on your won’t leave you indifferent. This is yet another great addition to way out the door. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAEGBW the city’s captivating theme scene. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. S lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 36 cafés

Italiys’kyi Dvoryk (Italian Yard) C-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. Mapa C-4, Halyts’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 272 55 69, www. (+380) 32 297 53 66. This romantic hotspot is located within mapa.lviv.ua. This a logical launching point for your romp the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok ploshca (Market Square). Lviv- around Lviv. Not only do they offer tasty treats and desserts, ians, visitors to the palace’s museum and random pedestrians you can also order maps, atlases and sightseeing booklets are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee lover’s oasis. in Ukrainian, Polish and English. Plan your day while sipping Completely severed from the complexities of the outside world, coffee or tea in the comfy interior or on the trendy veranda. the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian Renais- Service is friendly and in English. The cakes are flavourful sance. Mellow music, delectable fragrances and stunning art but don’t be fooled by their recognisable names, i.e. the “ti- and architecture make for a truly special café experience. The ramisu” is actually chocolate cake with a cream cheese filling. coffee is rich and tasty. Throughout the summer patrons beat QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGBW the heat by sipping frosty beers, cool cocktails and frothy milkshakes. If it all looks familiar, you’ve probably seen this Masoch Café C-4, Serbs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 18 courtyard in one of the many local and foreign films that shot 72, www.masoch-cafe.com.ua. This titillating theme café/ scenes here. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 1Hr. UEB restaurant is dedicated to writer and original freak Leopold Ritter von Sacher-Masoch who was born in Lviv in 1836. K-Kawa I-3,C-4, Valova 5, tel. (+380) 98 389 73 34, Masoch enjoyed playing the role of the slave and insisted that www.kkawa.lviv.ua. A cosy cookie coffee place in the his dominatrixes wear furs. In fact, the word masochism was centre. It’s a great place for business meetings, corporate coined from his name. The menu, which can be purchased events, family time, a romantic moment or just break from as a souvenir (in Ukrainian only), is loaded with fabulous and shopping or sightseeing. There is a large selection of crêpes unusual dishes. If your husband is having difficulties deciding averaging 17Hr per portion. Salads go for 24Hr & sandwiches on a meal, he’s probably too distracted by the pornography for 18Hr. There are all sorts of various cakes, pies, and cook- that appears on the menu and you should order for him. He’s ies at very affordable prices along with a wide selection of sure to appreciate the bull’s testicles in an oil and sweet teas & coffees. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. pepper sauce. They boast the best fondue in town and the Kvartyra 35 (Flat 35) C-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) waitresses will handcuff and whip you free of charge. On your 32 297 56 12. This hipster hangout is located above Pid way out the door, don’t forget to reach into Leopold’s pocket Klepsydroyu café (you actually order off the same menu). The for this café’s version of a fortune cookie. QOpen 11:00 - feature that sets this snug loft apart is the live Jazz featured 01:00. PABSW just about every night. We arrived late Saturday afternoon Na Bambetli C-4, Rynok pl. 29, tel. (+380) 32 235 45 and a jazz pianist was already pounding the keys. Some 44, www.nabambetli.com. A cosy café located in the for- locals had smuggled in litres of beer in plastic bottles, but mer Andriolli passage where according to local history, the first this is blatantly unnecessary. The menu has everything you confectioner’s shop in Lviv was opened. There is English and need and then some. We had a cappuccino and a feri-fire Polish menu and waiters speak English. It has a somewhat (flaming rum doused with an espresso) and did our best to French design with special lighting that gives it a romantic at- blend with intellectuals, artists and university kids trying mosphere. There is a good selection of coffee, chocolate, ice hard not to fit in. Seating is limited, but it’s worth waiting for cream, and beer. There are also some sandwiches available. a free table. Once settled, you’re likely to discover swift and Q The music being played while we were there was actually en- cheery service. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Admission 40Hr on joyable as were the prices. Discounts are available for groups. PALEGSW Thursdays. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PGW Lviv’s Chocolate Workshop C-4, Serbs’ka 3, tel. (+380) 50 430 60 33, www.chocolate.lviv.ua. This lovely chocolate Pid Klepsydroyu D-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) 32 shop is easy to find as there is always a crowd looking through 297 56 12, www.dzyga.com. This trendy café is located the window and gathering at the small sales stall on this quaint where the sidewalk ends on Virmens’ka vul. We went on a Fri- walking street in the heart of the old city. Legend has it that day night and had to wait 20 minutes for a table. The main hall Chocolate from Lviv was well known from the middle ages. In the and upstairs seating are cosy and buzz with animated banter. 19th century, chocolate was exported from Lviv to aristocracy In contrast, the outdoor seating offers a tranquil vantage throughout Europe. There is a small café at the entrance where point for watching sunsets through the narrow crag created there are many flavours of hot chocolate and coffee to choose. by the inspiring architecture that lines Virmens’ka. The menu All the chocolate candies made here can be sampled before you is brief but inviting; for a taste found nowhere else on earth, go to the shop. Also on the ground floor, one can view the actual try the pig fat in chocolate. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GBW workshop where these delicacies are made. We saw a group of Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu C-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 school children on a tour, complete with protective clothing, gloves 294 91 53. Through an alleyway, under a staircase and and head gear actually making their own chocolate! Souvenirs beyond a decrepit yard you’ll find a hidden coffee house where and toys are made of chocolate and purchases can be shipped everything seems to be slowly caving in on itself. (If you’re from here world-wide. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAGBSW looking for sparkly, new and trendy keep walking.) Though they Lvivska Kopalna Kavy (Lviv’s Coffee Mine) I-3, Rynok welcome outsiders, everthing is geared for locals. However, pl. 10, tel. (+380) 67 670 61 06, www.fest.lviv.ua. At the the service and coffee are first-rate and the atmosphere is entrance one sees a conveyer belt bringing up coffee from one of a kind. We noticed that most of the food items were the underground coffee mine. So of course we jumped at the being warmed up in the microwave: stick to coffee or beer, chance to go on a tour of this mine far beneath the streets of enjoy the ambiance and then get out before the whole place Lviv. Downstairs, we go to the mine entrance where we put on turns to ruble. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. a miners hat with a lamp and a rather heavy battery pack. We then journey through the dim mine, avoiding the wagons of Praga Café (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. freshly mined coffee. We stop along the way at little pockets (+380) 32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. The twisted where we sample various spiced coffee. It was quite an experi- ornamental steel is a nice touch of Art Nouveau, the coffee ence. Back up stairs there is a regular coffee shop with really is loaded and the aroma of fresh cakes and sweats gnaws at yummy cakes and cookies. There is also a “coffee souvenir and the belly. A popular expat hang-out. The service is exceptional gift shop” and an adjacent “city and museum souvenir shop”. and the atmosphere is smart and inviting QOpen 10:00 - Definitely worth the visit! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 22:00. PAEGBSW

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com cafés cafés 37

Stari Mury C-4, Serbs’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 236 71 77. centrally located in the ‘old city”. The menu is Mediterranean Sandwiched between a chocolate shop and a café honouring & Ukrainian cuisine and in English, with an average price of the original masochist, Stary Mury offers titillating indulgences 130Hr. There are over 100 sorts of tea and 40 sorts of coffee of its own: fine tea and exotic coffee. With exceptional greens which may be packaged to take away. The museum of tea and whites from China and Japan, and rich blacks from India is truly worth seeing with photos and various tea parapher- and Arabia, tea lovers are in luck. The laidback atmosphere nalia and there is beautiful porcelain and souvenirs for sale. and coffee from the all edges of the earth are also inviting. QOpen 9:00 - 23:00. PA The desserts, snacks, wine and cognac are priced just right, Virmenka C-3, Virmens’ka 19, tel. (+380) 322 97 56 and soul warming glintwine is available when the temperature 37. At Virmenka you’re not going to get tableside service, dips near zero. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PG nor service in English. However, if you’re bold enough to ap- Strudel House I-2, Shevs’ka 6, tel./fax (+380) 32 proach the burly woman scowling from behind the counter 294 82 06. Ya ist strudel in der Centre! A very unique and say “coffee, budlaska (please)”, you will get an exquisite concept indeed! All kinds of strudel both savoury & espresso, the kind that coats the bottom of the cup with a sweet, some choices are: buckwheat, sauerkraut, spin- heavy aromatic sludge. The spinning box on the counter is ach, chicken, pineapple, walnut, cherry and so on. Most the menu, but everything worth having is in plain view (wine, strudel costs between 18-20Hr. There are also several tea, beer, cakes, etc.). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. AG varieties of pancakes, salads and ice cream as well as a Zolotyi Dukat C-4, Ivana Fedorova 20, tel. (+380) nice wine list. There is seating for 26 and service is great! 322 98 62 33. This cavernous café with its spooky mood QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULGBW lies beneath I. Fedorova vul. Mirrors on the ceiling and a Teatral’ne B-3, Teatral’na 23, tel. (+380) 32 272 36 mesmerizing relief model of historic Lviv add to the intrigue. 96. In what once was a theatre, you’ll now find a smart and Seating is limited, and there are even fewer menus. Once we spacious café with a menu chock-full of tempting original Eu- got our hands on a menu, we were disappointed to find that ropean and Ukrainian dishes. The porterhouse and tenderloin it is written in Ukrainian in ancient looking cursive. Despite steaks are popular with out-of-towners, and the mushroom the dim lighting and bad eyes, we finally managed to make stuffed trout in cognac sauce and the Norwegian salmon with out the word “coffee” and everything turned out for the best. strawberries are but a couple examples of the chef’s origi- QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. P nality. Teatral’ne can accommodate special occasions; from Ч/Б 5х5 (Black and White 5x5) D-4, Koliivschyny small birthday parties to banquets of 50 (a special banquet pl. 2, tel. (+380) 68 505 85 99. In spite of its name, this menu is available). Other highlights include rich desserts café/photo club left a colourful impression. Appetisers and (tiramisu, banana flambé, apple pie, etc.), excellent service treats constitute the majority of the tasty, albeit small, ar- and street side seating with calming views of historic centre. ray of dishes; the most popular being the koshiki, pastry QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. bowls filled with a variety meat and veggies. We nibbled on Victorian Krakivs’ka 1/3, tel. (+380) 32 235 84 92, our flaky bowls and watched an illuminating slide show by victorian.net.ua. It’s a restaurant - no it’s a museum - no it’s photographer Alexandr Petrosian, whose work beautifully a shop. Actually, it’s all 3 in one! This unique establishment is captures the insane duality found in Russia and Ukraine. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. IG

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Lviv’s clubs attract a diverse crowd, and you should be able to blend in quite easily. The great thing about partying in Eastern Europe is that the locals are arguably more awkward on the dance floor than we are in the west, so shrug off you inhibitions and convulse to the beat. Warn- ing: Locals are overtly friendly and often invite foreigners to party at their table. We’ve learned from repeated experi- ence that it’s impossible for a westerner to keep pace with locals when it comes to shooting horilka (vodka). Slow and steady wins the horilka race. Bars & Pubs 4friends C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 32 225 65 54, www.4friends.com.ua. Truly what the Doors had in mind in the song “Show me the way to the next whiskey bar.” Opened early 2011, 4Friends has more than 110 brands of well known whiskey from Scotland, Ireland, Canada and the USA; and then some. A wide range of testing sets pleases the eye and every member of the staff is a specialist in whiskey. Wild Turkey is on its way and we saw the first English menu. There are snacks and a European menu with reasonable prices. This pub is very popular with capacity for around 30-40. Very close to the city centre. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PXW Archive Pub A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 58 86. Archive is Lviv’s version of your friendly neighbourhood pub. It’s not uncommon to see whole families converge for lunch at the weekend: dads gulp beers, moms gossip and kids frolic under tables. Evening ushers in a new crowd, but the mood remains relaxed even when local football matches are shown. Don’t leave without trying one of their signature beer cocktails: beer and Fanta is a Ukrainian classic, but the Devil’s Brew (beer, cognac, salt, pepper and lemon) and the Island Paradise (beer, vodka, Malibu, gin and pineapple juice) are sure to leave an unforgettable impression. If you can still talk after downing one of these unique concoctions, order from a menu full of munchies, soups, salads, steaks and desserts. It can be hit and miss with the food - the soup was scrumptious, but the wings were salty enough to kill a horse. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGSW Beer Garden I-4, Ivana Franka 29, tel. (+380) 32 276 21 76. This eatery/beer house can be a bit tricky to find. One might expect that with an even number address (26) the establishment would be located on the even number side of the street - not the case. When you reach 28 Ivana Franka look across the street and you’ve arrived. A popular local’s hang, the offering of brew bursts at the keg welds compared to the scant selection of Ukrainian fare. However, flavour swirls up from the grill, fills the halls and rushes through the open courtyard tying knots of anticipation in the guts of eager patrons. The wings, ribs and shashlik are all worthy of men- tion. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PILGBS Black Cat G-4, Hvardiys’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 40. Black Cat is a real English pub-restaurant of supreme cuisine, which menu contains pizza, meat, fish and seafood of the best quality. Wheat and corn homemade bread baked in stove accord- ing to ancient recipes will be a great addition to any meal. The leafy salads and steamed salmon with veggies are a welcome break from Lviv’s greasy norm. Black Cat offers 15 kinds of beer, genuine atmosphere and their service is courteous. If you once taste chebureks and homemade sausages, which are served with beer, you will never forget its wonderful taste. Live jazz starts up nightly at 18:30 and banquets can be booked for up to 50. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAEGBXS Central King’s Pub Ivana Franka 9, tel. (+380) 32 244 57 87, [email protected]. A fairly new eating establishment, somewhat reminiscent of an English country pub. The décor is fancy pubish and there is seating for 60. The cuisine, of

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course is English with fish & chips one of the specialties for just 95Hr with an average full course meal running about 300Hr. Weekends there is live music alternating between jazz & blues. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAEGSW Cosmopolitan I-4, Saksahans’koho 12, tel. (+380) 96 820 11 78/(+380) 32 260 29 52, info@cosmopolitan- bar.com.ua, www.cosmopolitan-bar.com.ua. This is a great alternative to night clubs - a cocktail bar with over 150 varieties of cocktails made from many exotic ingredients and at very reasonable prices. If you don’t find what you want, they will make it just for you! There is also great food with a limited menu of Ukrainian food costing only 35-55Hr. It is situated on 2 floors with 3 rooms including a VIP room and a non-smoking room. There is coffee, hookah, and just an overall good atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. 6GW Dublin A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 88 74, www.dublin.com.ua. Dublin is known as “The true Irish pub”. It is slightly hidden in an alley way, very close to the city centre known as “The crooked Linden lane”. We arrived early on a Sat- urday night and the place was already filled. There were several TV screens and a few people were actually watching the game. Most people were just enjoying their friends and the beer. The pub offers a wide choice of fresh draught beer and whiskey. They have a specialty, Dublin beer - what they call ‘live beer’ made in Ukraine (24Hr a pint). There are two halls ground level for 45-50 guests, and downstairs seating 20-22 guests. There is also a terrace outside, weather permitting. There is a great menu with Irish type pub grub and steaks guaranteed to make your mouth water! During weekdays there is a business lunch for only 50Hr. Unfortunately, due to certain new Ukraine customs policies; there was no Guinness or Kilkennery beer available. When asked how long the problem would continue, we were told to address our question to the President. I guess he’s not a lover of Irish beer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GB Korzo Pub C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 10, tel. (+380) 32 225 70 92. This Lvivian version of the neighbourhood pub will definitely raise your spirits and inspire fond memories of back home. There’s always a game playing on the LCDs; however, cheers of the winning goal are likely to be drowned out by the lively chatter. Paulaner, Murphy’s and Pilsner Urquell are available on tap. The menu offers everything from tasty beer snacks to satisfying Ukrainian and international meals. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PE MAGNUS Liverpool A-1, Kulisha 31, tel. (+380) 32 243 55 66, HOTEL LVIV liverpool.lviv.ua/home?lang=en. The name speeches for itself, Liverpool has an interior of classical English pub, with portraits of prominent British people on the walls.The pub has 2 types of its own beer - Liverpool Ale Light and Liverpool Lager and specially designed glasses. For sure Liverpool 31, PANTELEIMONA KULISHA STR., LVIV is pub for football fans, so in case you missed tickets for TEL.: (032) 243 55 66 a football match you’ll find here the best atmosphere for watching football on the screen. Prices are reasonable and 12.00-23.00 DAILY there are special areas is you come with a big company. WWW.LIVERPOOL.LVIV.UA QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAGSW Music Lab C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 27, tel. (+380) 32 294 87 15, www.musiclab.com.ua. That’s one of a few places in Lviv which is open 24/7 and differs from most of Lviv eateries by its unusual interior. Visiting so many places in Lviv we use to see venues decorated with a tint of history and here we are in the heart of ancient city in a club with a modern glamorous interior. The menu offers international cuisine, three types of draught beer and a large variety of cocktails, energy drinks and good selection of whiskey. On weekends and holidays the space is transformed into a disco club. Live concert take place from time to time. QOpen 24hrs. P6VXSW

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Play Bar Kryva lypa 6, tel. (+380) 96 36 76 026/(+380) 32 27 22 501, www.play.lviv.ua. A very classy, yet simple café/bar, decorated all in white. It doesn’t stay white as there is a revolving colour scheme. Staff speaks some English, and the menu is in English offering European cuisine. There is a Business Lunch from 12:00-16:00 for just 30Hr. There is also a holiday and an evening menu - all with good prices. Live music is every Thursdays. There is a VIP area and seating for 80. At weekends there is a DJ and up to 200 gather for the sounds. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. PAULEGW Praga Pub A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. Czechs drink more beer per capita than anyone on the planet. That being said, they expect only the best from their breweries and Praga Lviv taps into this tradition by serving fresh from the source Budvar, Krušovice and other classic Czech brews. The pub is located in the basement of the Praga complex, which includes a restaurant and café on the ground floor. Its welcoming neighbourhood ap- peal and occasional boisterous crowds make this an enticing venue for meeting-up, winding-down or viewing a big game. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAEGBSW Romeo Bar I-3, Staroyevreis’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 62. Actually it’s two places in one. Upstairs is a nice quite romantic restaurant, downstairs, a lively pub. Great food is served; Greek-Mediterranean & Ukrainian cuisine with such specialties as the ‘hot pot’ and their ‘chef’s salad’. The aver- age meal costs 60-120Hr with the “business lunch” costing only 25Hr. Entertainment is downstairs in the pub. There is live music from local groups. The “art menu” changes daily. There is karaoke, whiskey day, beer day, poker day, Greek dancing on table’s day, family day, etc. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAGBW Zenyk. Glamour Rudans’koho 1, tel. (+380) 50 378 60 38. The theme of this pub is “glamour”, or to be precise, the vanity of glamour, as it is meant to be a spoof on glam- Cigar House our. One feels this by viewing the unique décor, decorations, and photos. There is no English menu but the staff is warm Fortuna De Luxe I-4, Hrushevs‘koho 12, tel. (+380) and friendly and speaks some English. The specialty is 32 260 20 25. This is not your ordinary smoke shop. As potato pancakes & beer which we quite enjoyed. QOpen you enter, you‘re bound to be impressed by the extensive 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. selection of pipes, hookahs and other paraphernalia. But PABSW don‘t let this distract you from your ultimate goal of find- H-3, T. Kostyushka 1, tel. (+380) 32 ing the perfect smoke. Proceed down the small corridor Zenyk. Mytnyk 239 33 99. This pub is dedicated to the Ukrainian Customs leading to the smoking lounges. To your right you‘ll find department which is right next door. (The literal translation Lviv‘s Holy Smoking Grail: Fortuna‘s humidor. From Gur- of “mytnyk” is “customs agent”.) It is meant to take the kha Special Edition Limited Estate Reserves, to Auroras Mickey out of them; a bit of sarcasm which is displayed in its and Monte Cristos (Arnold Schwarzenegger‘s signature décor using various photos spread throughout the pub. Their smoke) this is easily the city‘s finest cache of cigars. You specialty is beer and potato pancakes at great prices. This don‘t need to be an oligarch to enjoy this club, however. is a place one doesn’t want to miss! QOpen 8:00 - 06:00, The general hall is open to all, and you can order a stogy Sat, Sun 10:00 - 06:00. PASW for as little as 22Hr. You‘re out of luck if you‘re hoping for a snifter of cognac to enhance the experience. Fortuna sells tobacco only. Discount programmes are available; ask Clubs the gracious staff for details. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Fenomen Zelena 186, tel. (+380) 32 270 55 58, www. fenomenclub.com. The fact that this club is located on the edge of the city hasn’t deterred the throngs of local hipsters that routinely pack this place on weekends. Face control is relatively strict; it’s better to be over than underdressed, and the average age is just under thirty. The club has three zones: To advertise chill with a hookah in the “Magic Room», house spins in the “Main Floor” and there are no surprises in the “RnB Café”. In English, with Lviv In Your Pocket the menu leaves nothing to chance and offers an array of tasty salads, sandwiches, onion rings - everything you need to quell call the munchies. Tables can be reserved for 200-800Hr depending on the zone and size of your party. (Marshrutka No. 94, which (+380) 67 672 44 97 makes stops on Svobody prosp., will drop you 50 metres from the club’s entrance.) QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission: Mon free, Tue-Wed 50 Hr, Thu-Sat - 80Hr, Sun 50-150Hr. PALGBW

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Gallery B-3, Svobody prosp. 16-18, tel. (+380) 32 235 45 17, www.galleryclub.info. Gallery is an entertaining blend of trends and cultures; classic and hi-tech; glam, R’n’B and disco. Refined French cuisine and excellent service ensure that the house is lively and diverse. Locals have designated this club their unofficial hookah hangout, and a mix of exclusive aromas is omnipresent. Also, Gallery has been known to put on intriguing events, i.e. “Night on Spiked Heels” was a titillat- ing fest where ladies who dressed in provocative attire were ushered in free of charge. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. Admission girls 35-80Hr, boys 50 - 100Hr. PALK Karaoke Club 888 I-2, D. Halyts’koho 1, tel./fax (+380) 32 235 88 77, www.karaokeclub888.com.ua. Located below the Children’s theatre, this authentic karaoke club holds 200 people. It cost only 16Hr per song to have fun. There is no English menu, but the staff speaks it quite well. The cuisine is European & Ukrainian with the average meal costing just 100Hr per person. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00. PT6ULEBXSW Kult Club B-5, Chaikovs’koho 7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22 42, www.kult.lviv.ua. Kult is a tribute Lviv’s icons past and present. A wall of fame wraps completely round the main hall. Though you may only recognise a couple faces like pop star Ruslana or former Arsenal defender Oleg Luzhny, the charismatic ambiance is unforgettable. Prices on Ukrainian and European fare are reasonable; however, many items are priced per 100 grams, so ask the server the approximate size of the dish in order to avoid confusion. Kult is perhaps best known for the live music (mostly jazz and blues) that is staged nightly from 21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. Admission is free. PAIEGSW Lerroy Country Club E-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380) 32 239 31 60. This is not a country club in the traditional sense, i.e. there’s no golf course or swimming pool. Lerroy is actually a club with a country western theme - at least when it comes to the décor. On the night we were there, the DJ was playing a medley of 80s Russian rock ballads. Most of the action takes place on and around the dance floor, but there’s also plenty to do in the cocktail lounge and the hushed hookah bar. The kitchen offers a splatter- ing of local soups and salads, and the specialty is the Argentine steak. The club enforces the following dress code: Sneakers and sweatpants are prohibited, but leopard skin spandex and cleavage lifting blouses are encouraged. The average age is mid-thirties, and tables can be reserved for 50Hr. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PLGB Metro I-4, Zelena 14, tel. (+380) 67 670 42 43, www. metroclub.com.ua. Those who think that there’s no metro in Lviv couldn’t be more mistaken. So what if it won’t transport you around the city, Metro is one of Lviv’s most popular clubs. Progressive and cutting edge, the Red Phone hall spins Euro Hit Parade and the impressive dance floor is usually packed with a diverse group of partiers, expats included. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 25 - 40Hr for girls, 30 - 50Hr for boys. PESW Millenium H-2, Viacheslava Chernovola 2, tel. (+380) 32 240 35 91, www.favorite-club.com. Located in a former cinema, there is room for 1,000 in the 3 storied disco appeal- ing to the university set. There are popular DJ’s, go-go girls and video clips making a very lively performance. Thursday is ladies night with free entrance until 23:00. The entrance is 30-40Hr. The restaurant is set apart and has a “witch-craft” theme. Romantic music is played and many famous Ukrain- ian celebrities frequent the place whose pictures we didn’t recognize at all. The menu is in English with European and Ukrainian cuisine, the average meal costing 150-200Hr. We tried the specialty, a salad called “Lovely Lady” which was delicious! QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. P lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 42 Nightlife What to see

MIXX Party Club & Restaurant Staryi Rynok 8, tel. (+380) 322 44 83 42, [email protected], www.mixx.lviv. ua. Located on the outskirts of the centre at the “Old Market” and uniquely decorated. The disco is open from 22:00-05:00 and holds 300 people. The restaurant holds up to 150. The menu contains Ukrainian and Polish dishes and assorted snacks. There is a Japanese/sushi menu and food is served all the time at very descent prices. There is a small adjoining res- taurant open 08:00-20:00 QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAL Picasso J-5, Zelena 88, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 72, www.picasso.lviv.ua. By day, Picasso is a popular café known for its flavourful coffee and tasty treats. By night, it metamorphoses into one of Lviv’s most vibrant and popular clubs. Concerts, retro parties and performances by top DJs fill an eclectic calendar. Face control is the rule: ditch the dirty trousers and comb your hair you filthy degenerate! The last Sunday of the month is Latin night. Book a table Friday and Saturday for a meagre 30Hr. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Thu. Admission 30 - 60Hr. PIEBW Rafinad People B-5, Rudans’koho 1, tel. (+380) 32 261 61 68/(+380) 66 400 08 88, www.rafinad-club. com. Rafinad brings a touch of class previously missing in Lviv’s club scene. You’ll need to pass a fairly strict face control: worn-out jeans and sneakers won’t get you through the door. Service standards, the cuisine and even the music are tuned to European tastes. The club itself is spacious, but the tight dance floor ensures there will be plenty of grinding. The DJs, live music and performers are professional and always entertain- ing. Other attractions include two VIP rooms and a cigar hall. QOpen 24 hrs. Admission Mon-Thu 30Hr for girls, 50Hr for boys; Fri-Sun 50Hr for girls, 100Hr for boys. PALEGW Split Club Lviv B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 6/7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22 00, www.split.lviv.ua. Split is a one-stop-shop for all your dining, drinking and entertainment needs. The Irish pub blends with a stylish restaurant that serves Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. The restaurant also features a private dining room where an itamae whips up inventive sushi dishes for up to eight. Split’s strip club is renowned for its incredibly talented dancers and is open from 22:00 - 04:00. The club’s specialty is the aqua show, in which the dancer takes a shower! Private, lap and table dances are also available. A 100Hr admission applies for the strip club. QOpen 24hrs. PTAILEGSW Taj-Mahal Heroiv UPA 77, tel. (+380) 63 223 81 33/ (+380) 32 239 33 99, taj-mahal.lviv.ua. The name is a little misleading as it’s a restaurant in the daytime and a disco at night. There is no Indian food either; however there is a great limited menu with Asian, European, & Ukrainian dishes. The average cost per meal is about 100-150Hr with the “business lunch” costing 35Hr. Sometimes there are fashion shows held in the Taj Mahal which is very modern with plenty of space. From Thursday-Sunday the place becomes a disco after 22:00 and every Friday there is a different theme. QOpen 24hrs. PALV Zanzibar Lypyns’koho 36, tel. (+380) 32 244 54 05/ (+380) 32 244 54 03, [email protected], www.zan- zibar.com.ua. This is three places in one. On the middle floor is the restaurant & bar. There is European and Asian cuisine and of course, a sushi menu. An average meal costs around 100Hr with a special meal for two costing 250Hr. There is a 30% discount when ordering from 12:00-19:00. Just aside from the restaurant are billiard tables. Upstairs is the Disco with DJ’s and sometimes live music. Tuesday is lady’s night and Wednesday is men’s night with entrance for the guys and a 30%discount for all. Downstairs is the strip club which is 70Hr admission, and a private dance costing 300Hr. Restaurant & bar Open 12:00-06:00, Disco 22:00-06:00, Strip club Open 22:00-05:00. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. ALW Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com What to see 43

Lviv’s old town is so densely packed with mesmerizing, inspiring and unique attractions that travellers often be- come paralysed with fascination and never leave. Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. The uncommonly preserved Ren- aissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches are sure to propel your mind through a vivid collage of centuries gone by. Essential Lviv Arsenal D-4, Pidval‘na 5, tel. (+380) 322 72 70 60. The city arsenal and its adjoining defensive walls are visible from Arsenal vul. Construction on the original two-storied stone building began in the 14th century, but was not completed until 1555. After nearly two centuries of toil this original structure was completely destroyed by fire after only 16 years of opera- City Hall (Ratusha) C-4, pl. Rynok 1. The first city hall tion, and the contemporary building was constructed in its was established on Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the place from 1574-75. When the Swedes invaded in 1704 the middle of the 14th century. Constructed of wood, it was lev- arsenal took a beating, but all holes were patched within two elled by fire in 1381. A new hall was erected in the early 15th years. In the 18th and 19th centuries the arsenal was reforti- century. The contemporary building is a conglomeration of fied and lost some of its original form. Most recently, two of the the 15th century structure and three major expansions. The upper floors were restored and now house a museum. Parts stone tower that hovers above the hall is the second of its of the exterior have been excavated in order to reveal original kind. The original was erected in 1619, but by the beginning of walls, windows and roof. The distinctive defensive trench has the 19th century was deemed unstable and demolished. The been also been preserved. Throughout its working history the 65 meter high replacement is a replica of the original. Pace arsenal served as Lviv‘s defensive backbone. A smelting-house yourselves, it‘s 306 steps up to the viewing platform. In 2008 was located next to the arsenal and cast weapons for storage a local pornographer boldly used City Hall‘s roof as a backdrop and for sale. The swords forged in Lviv gained the reputation for photos, which were splashed all over the Internet. This as some of the best in Europe. In the 18th Century the arsenal embarrassment led local authorities to implement stricter was also used as a prison. It was here that Polish authorities security measures including the installation of surveillance imprisoned haydamaks, Ukrainian peasant rebels resisting cameras. Smile… you‘re being watched by a Ukrainian secu- Polish tyranny. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admis- rity cop. Q Admission to the city hall tower - 5Hr. sion 8Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr. Italian Yard (Italiys‘kyi dvoryk) C-3, Rynok 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 04. This romantic hotspot is located Black Stone House (Chorna Kamianytsia) C-3, pl. within the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok pl. Lvivians, visitors to the Rynok 4. This exceptional architectural monument of the 16th- palace‘s museum and random pedestrians are magnetically 17th centuries is matchless not only in Lviv, but in the whole of drawn to this open-air coffee lover‘s oasis. Completely severed Europe. Construction on this alluring structure began in 1588 from the complexities outside, the carved stone and shaded and incorporated locally mined, vibrant grey sandstone. The balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. The mellow music and imposing black colour is a product of long-term absorption by delectable fragrances make for a truly special café experience. the stone of dust, dirt and smoke that swirled about the market If it all looks familiar, you‘ve probably seen the courtyard one of (coal was used to heat homes until the 1960s). The name Black the many local and foreign films that shot scenes here. Con- Stone House didn‘t always apply, it was previously known as certs are occasionally staged here; the courtyard is known for Kyiv Stone House and Doctor‘s Stone House. In 1926 the its uncanny acoustic resonance. QAdmission 2Hr. building was bought by the city and a branch of Lviv‘s historical museum was soon established. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed King Jan III Sobieski Palace (Palats Kornjakta) C-3, Wed. Admission 3Hr, students and kids - 2Hr. pl. Rynok 6. This is a unique monument of the Renaissance period, one of only a few existing in Ukraine, and is the largest structure on Rynok pl. Until the late 16th century the area on which the palace stands was occupied by two smaller buildings, which were purchased by a Greek merchant named Constantine Kornjakt. He subsequently ordered the reconstruction of the two houses into a new grandiose edifice. Fragments of the older structures have been preserved and include the Gothic hall (an unmatched sample of Lviv‘s Gothic influence) and the cross-sectional support beams that hold the third floor ceiling. Following Kornjakt‘s death, the house was taken over Jakub Sobieski, the father of the future Polish king Jan III. From this time on the house served as a royal roost. In 1634 the residence was occupied for a short time by Wladyslaw IV, the Polish con- queror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian crown.The Polish-Russian Eternal Peace Treaty (anything with a name this lofty deserves to fail) was signed at the palace in 1686. Since 1908 the building has housed a museum. One of the brightest expositions of any of the city‘s museums, the Royal Chambers, can be found here. The palace‘s Italian Yard is a Lvivian favourite and is not to be missed. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Black Stone House Admission 8Hr, children - 3Hr. lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 44 What to see

Rus‘ka Street C/D-4, . Rus‘ka vul. has been an estab- lished thoroughfare since the Middle Ages. Connecting Rynok ploscha (Market Square) with Pidval‘na vul. (Rampart Street), the street is so narrow that only one street car can travel at a time. Blending a fascinating array of architectural styles, Rus‘ka is one of the most striking streets in the old city. For centuries this remained Lviv‘s centre of Orthodox Christianity. During Polish rule, this was the only street where an Ortho- dox believer was allowed to own real estate. From Rus‘ka there was a passage to an old Jewish ghetto. Residents constructed walls and a gate, which was secured at night in order to protect from pogroms. If there‘s a building that stands out it‘s No. 4. Constructed in the 16th century, an old-Austrian style café called Synia Pliashka sits in the court yard and the building itself is currently occupied by the Gerdan Art Gallery. The Opera House A-2, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 322 72 88 60, www.lvivopera.org. Many European theatres can boast an extraordinary construction history, but Lviv‘s opera Market Square (Ploscha Rynok) C-3/4, . Time and house is unique in that it is built on top of a river. The Poltva space gush through old town‘s veins and swirl ‘round Rynok River flows beneath the stage and continues through centre ploscha: a cobbled whirlpool of colour and sound. With its deep beneath the asphalt (no doubt a contributor to the many stunning palaces, fountains, statues, crowds, cafés and sinkholes that tend to startle foreign visitors). By the end of the pack of lethargic stray dogs Rynok Square is the heart of this 19th century Lviv was a bourgeoning city eager for a European- magnificent city. Throughout the Middle Ages stone weights class theatre. The project was put up for tender and many top and balances clanked with each sale, livestock pleaded and European architects tossed in their bids. It was Polish architect villains writhed in pain at the punishment stake. Amazingly, Zygmunt Gorgolewski - designer of Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in within this relatively small area there are 45 protected archi- Berlin, the Gemäldegalerie in Dresden and the Vienna State tectural monuments. Each structure has its own captivating Opera - who proposed the radical and intriguing idea of burying history, but the oldest and most commonly wowed-about are the small river beneath the opera. His plans also included the Chorna Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) and Kornjakt Palace use of a concrete foundation, a first for Europe. With optimistic (also called King Jan III Sobieski Palace). Regardless the era, trepidation, the city planners agreed and the Opera House was the government has always kept a keen eye on the square. completed in 1900. The building began to sink right away, but The imposing structure in the middle is City Hall. settled in the decades that followed. It is believed that knowl- edge of this flaw led to Gorgolewski‘s depression, legendary suicide attempt and eventual death of heart disease.The official City tours opening performances included a ballet, opera-drama and a comedy. The most fitting of the three was the opera entitled Bicycle Rentals and Tours B-4, Rynok Square 5, “Janek”. Written by Władysław Żeleński, it detailed the lives of tel. (+380) 67 675 63 01/(+380) 32 253 24 90, bi- Carpathian mountain-dwellers. The contemporary professionals [email protected], www.bicyclerent.lviv.ua. that call the Opera House home include a 90-piece symphonic Chudo Tour B-4, Rynok pl., tel. (+380) 32 236 70 orchestra, more than 40 world-class opera soloists, a choir and 06, www.chudotour.com.ua. Chudo Train starts every a ballet troupe. The structure‘s stunning main façade is widely hour from Ploscha Rynok (near the City Council entrance.) recognized and appears on the city‘s emblem and is also dis- QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. played on the 20Hr note. Matinees usually begin at 11:00 and evening performances at 18:00. Fest Tour Rynok pl. 10, tel. (+380) 67 670 23 96, www.fest.lviv.ua. Free Tours of Lviv A-2, The Opera House, Svobody Churches & Cathedrals prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 93 795 79 59/(+380) 32 253 St. George Cathedral (Sobor Sviatoho Yura) G-3, pl. 24 90, [email protected], www.freetours. Svyatoho Yura 5. This Greek Catholic cathedral, constructed com.ua. You can see daily tour schedule on website. in 1744-1761, is a remarkable example of Rococo architecture. Located at the height of St. George Mount, the cathedral Kamianyi Lev B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) dominates the surrounding area, but doesn‘t clash with the 32 245 22 20. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - landscape. The main façade is set-off by a portal watched over 14:00. Closed Sun. by St. Athanasius and St. Leo (works by renowned sculptor Lemberg Tour D-3, Vynnychenka 26/1, tel. (+380) Johann Georg Pinzel). In the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt 32 276 54 42, [email protected], www. where celebrated figures of the Ukrainian church are entombed. lemberg-tour.com.ua. Lemberg Tour provides Lviv city A park is nestled behind the palace and features a distinctive tours, tours around Ukraine, accomodation and transport bell tower, which houses a remarkable bell. Cast in 1341, it is services. the oldest bell in Ukraine. The cathedral grounds are extremely Serpanok travel agency I-3, Teatral’na str., 8/ calming and it‘s hard to imagine that hard times once prevailed. of.1, tel. +38/050-22-22-546, [email protected]. Following the death of metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky in ua,www.serpanok.com.ua. Tours and transfers around March 1946, Soviet authorities coerced church leaders to Lviv and Western Ukraine.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. denounce Rome and join the Russian Orthodox Church. Justice Piligrim A-5, Kopernyka 26, tel. (+380) 32 297 prevailed in 1989 as the Greek Catholic Church re-established 05 51/(+380) 32 297 05 52, [email protected]. itself and resumed operation of the cathedral. The last major net, www.piligrim.lviv.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat event to take place at St. George happened 2001. While visit- 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. ing Lviv, Pope John Paul II lived in the Metropolitan‘s Palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free.

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com What to see 45

The Armenian Cathedral (Virmens‘kyi Sobor) C-3, Virmens‘ka 7. The history of Lviv is a tapestry woven by more than 100 nationalities. Armenians began inhabiting the city in the 14th century and quickly established their own quarter complete with a small cathedral completed in 1370. This original building perished in the fire of 1527. The structure that stands today blends a few architectural styles including Old Russian, Gothic and Armenian. The original bell tower was erected in 1571, but was later toppled by the Turks during a siege. The 19th century version of the bell tower is a restora- tion of the original. The courtyard provides a tranquil setting for the decorative column and figure of St. Christopher. The neighbouring buildings are those of a former Armenian bank, established in the 17th century, and Lviv‘s oldest pawnshop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. The Assumption Church (Uspens‘ka Tserkva) B-3, Rus‘ka 7. This vibrant example of Renaissance architecture has served as the centre of the Orthodox Christian faith for centuries. In the middle of the 16th century, the Assumption Brotherhood was founded here along with a printing press and a school. The church has experienced many episodes of ruin and reconstruction. The first Assumption Church was constructed of wood in 1344, but was destroyed by fire during an attack on Lviv by Polish feudal lords in 1350. The second church was built of stone in 1421 and experienced a relatively peaceful existence until it too was levelled by the great fire of 1527. (With the exception of City Hall and one other structure, the fire of 1527 devoured the entire city.) The replacement was completed in 1559 and, you guessed it, was completely destroyed by fire in 1571. The danger posed by fire was appar- ently driven home and the cathedral constructed in 1591 has survived until the present. Also located on the premises are Kornjakt‘s Tower and the Chapel of Three Prelates. QOpen The Dominican Cathedral (Dominicans‘kyi Sobor) 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. D-3, Museina pl. 1. The foundation of the Dominican Monastery The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery D-5, dates back to the second half of the 13th century when Con- stance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, commissioned the construction Soborna pl. 1-3. The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery of a small wooden church in gratitude for the generosity of the is one of the most inspiring sites in Lviv. The area around local Dominican monks. Eventually destroyed by fire in 1408, which the monastery stands has evolved over the years, but a Gothic-era stone church was constructed in its place. The the monastery itself remains as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin monastery, which could accommodate more than 100 monks, envisioned. Constructed in the 17th century, the Cathe- experienced its heyday beginning in 1612 when it become the dral‘s façade is protected by statues of the sacred order of central monastery of the Eastern European Dominican Order. In Bernardine and the niches of the second tier hold images of 1742 cracks were detected in the cathedral‘s arch. An emergency Mary, Jesus and apostles Peter and Andrew. Be respectful, of meeting was convened and all rescue options were exhausted. course, but don‘t be afraid to drop in on a prayer session. The Demolition commenced in 1749. Construction on the new cathe- cathedral‘s magnificent interior is stirring. Originally located dral, designed by architect Jan de Witte, began shortly after. The outside the city walls, the monastery had its own defences. bell tower was constructed in 1865. During the Soviet era the site A section of the original protective wall remains and can be was used as a regional archive and as a school for would be print- viewed from Pidval’na vul. The impressive column that stands ing workers. After restoration in 1972 the Dominican Monastery before the cathedral supports a sculpture of St. Jan and opened as a museum dedicated to the history of religion and was constructed in 1736. Originally from a small settlement atheism; the atheists have since left the building. Religious servic- es have also resumed. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. named Dukla, Jan rose to prominence in Lviv where he died in September 1484 at the age of 60. He was quickly canonized. The Chapel of the Boim Family (Kaplytsia Boimiv) The monument was established in memoriam to those on C-4, Katedral‘na pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 274 40 47. Con- the Polish side who perished during the Khmel‘nyts‘kyi Upris- structed in the early 17th century on the grounds of what was ing. In 1648 allied armies led by Ukrainian Hetman Bohdan a city cemetery; this quaint structure was originally intended Khmel‘nyts‘kyi invaded the Carpathian region in an attempt for use as a crypt by the Boim family. George Boim, a Lviv merchant and moneylender of Hungarian origin, started the to seize control from the Poles. One of the campaign‘s goals project and his son, Paul-George, put the finishing touches on was the complete eradication of Roman Catholic priests. what would become a permanent feature in Lviv‘s stunning QOpen 10:00 - 11:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission is free. centre. The side of the chapel is decorated with fretwork that gives the impression that the entire structure has been Stay in touch with what’s happening turned inside-out. Fresco portraits of George Boim and his in Lviv at our Facebook page wife Jadwiga can be viewed from Halyts‘ka vul. The site has been protected by UNESCO since the 1970s. QOpen 10:00 www.facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 46 What to see

The Latin Cathedral (Latyns‘kyi Sobor) C-4, Katedral‘na pl. 1. This is a spectacular example of ancient Lviv‘s Gothic influence. Officially known as the Archcathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, it‘s understandable why most just call it the Latin. Constructed in 1360, a relic was incorporated into the first foundation stone by King Kazimir the Great. Both the interior and exterior have evolved throughout the centuries, but the sanctuary and altar have remained unchanged. The cathedral was severely damaged in the fire of 1527. During its restoration in the 18th century, Baroque forms replace those of the Gothic era. The marvellous stained glass windows were incorporated at the end of the 19th century. A cemetery once existed on and around what is now Katedral‘na ploscha (Cathedral Square). In 1765 all burials were relocated and further burials forbidden. The cemetery‘s chapel, the Chapel of the Boim Family, remains on the site and is a protected historical monument. Pope John Paul II attended mass here on June 26th, 2001. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission 2Hr. Photography is prohibited. The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order (Kostiol Jezuitiv) B-4, Teatral‘na 11. Located with its back turned to Svobody prosp. and the monument The Latin Cathedral of Taras Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more mystical places in Lviv. The church was constructed in lection of Polish art is unmatched outside of Poland. Pieces the beginning of the 17th century and is modelled after in this collection date from the 16th to 20th centuries and the classic Church of the Gesù in Rome. The size of the include impressive works by leading 19th century masters church is impressive: 41metres long, 26 metres high and Artur Grottger and Jan Matejko. The pride of the museum, two 22.5 metres wide. When Austria ordered the abolition of world art masterpieces, is Georges de La Tour‘s “Payment the Jesuits 1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned property of Dues” and Tiziano Vecellio‘s “Portrait of a Man”. The halls worth up to one million thalers (big bucks for that time). A on the first floor regularly host thematic exhibitions. Last section of the premises is currently occupied by the Lviv entrance one hour before close.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun Scientific Library and is used as an archive. The Church 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children - 5Hr. has been opened after renovation early 2012. QOpen Lviv History Museum (Lvivs‘kyi istorychnyi muzey) 07:00 - 19:00. Admission is free. Photography is prohibited. C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 04, www.lhm. lviv.ua/eng. Founded in 1893, this is one of Lviv‘s oldest museums. Originally located in a chamber of City Hall, the Museums contemporary museum is spread out among four unique Brewing Museum (Muzey-pyvovarnia) G-1, architectural monuments dating from the 16th-18th centuries. Kleparivs‘ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 294 80 65. In recogni- The collection is composed of more than 330 thousand exhib- tion of the 290th anniversary of one of Europe‘s oldest its that offer fascinating snapshots into the lives of those who breweries, the Brewing Museum was opened to the public in inhabited Lviv from ancient times up to the present. The main 2005. Six-hundred square metres of the brewery‘s historic branch can be found at Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the premises were specially renovated in order to host this unique Kornjakt Palace. During the 17th Century the palace served as museum. The collection contains a plethora of exceptional a royal roost for Jakub Sobieski, the father of Polish king Jan III, beer utensils and brewing hardware that represent various and Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow epochs. Admission includes a trip to the tasting hall: a titillat- and seized the Russian crown. The collection‘s highlights ing bonus for all fans of Lvivs‘ke (Львівське) beer. Excursions include ancient furniture, pictures, silver ornaments and the are available in Polish, Russian and Ukrainian, and descriptions Royal Chambers. The museum‘s second and third branches in English under each exhibit make it enjoyable for the rest. are also located on the square in buildings 4 and 24. The QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 15Hr. fourth branch is located at the Arsenal on Pidval‘na vul. 5 and Johann Pinzel Museum (Muzey Ioana Pinzelya) D-5, is dedicated to the region‘s history of weaponry. Excursions Mytna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 75 69 66. This museum pre- in English can be difficult to rustle up, but most of the exhibits sents 32 sculptures of the world-renown 18th century Lvivian speak for themselves. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel. Often referred to as Ukrainian‘s Admission 8Hr, students and senior citizen 5Hr. Michelangelo the beauty and mastery of his work justifies this Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics C-1, pl. Uzhgorods‘ka distinction. Little is known about the sculptor‘s life and contro- 1, tel. (+380) 322 72 28 86. It‘s appropriate that versy continues to hover around his identity, but doesn‘t that this museum of ancient relics is located in one of Lviv‘s make his art all the more alluring? If you‘ve decided that you most ancient churches. St. John the Baptist Church was don‘t have time to visit a museum while in Lviv: skip lunch, head originally built in 1250, a time of profound transition and to Mytna pl. and discover the essence of Ukrainian art. QOpen growth in the newly established capital of Galicia. Though 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, it has been reconstructed numerous times, an antique students and children - 2Hr. Photography allowance - 20Hr. feel prevails. The museum opened in 1993 as a branch Lviv Art Gallery (Lvivs‘ka halereya mystetstv) A-5, of the Lviv Art Gallery. Artistic works, sacral relics and ar- Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 44 48. With 24 halls and chaeological findings tell the enthralling story of ancient life more than 400 works from leading French, Italian, Austrian, in the region. Dated to the second half of the 14th century, German, Russian, Polish and Ukrainian masters, this is the the collection‘s “Lviv Virgin and Child” is one of the oldest largest and arguably finest art museum in Ukraine. The col- existing Ukrainian icons. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com What to see 47

Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts B-4, Svobody prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 272 78 08. Known History in Stone for its unique collection of Ukrainian cultural artefacts, this celebrated museum houses more than 83 thousand items. The stunning rugs and tapestries, delicate wooden crafts and ancient musical instruments provide vivid frames into the lives of the region‘s past inhabitants. The clock exhibit is the largest and most valuable in Ukraine, but it‘s the vibrant assortment of embroidered national attire that really stands out and tends to bring touring groups to a sudden halt. The collection of jewellery is also impressive and features a remarkable silver episcopal baton dated to the 11th-13th centuries. The main exposition is located within the former premise of a Galician-era bank. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. National Museum (Natsional‘nyi muzey) B-3, Svo- body prosp. 20, tel. (+380) 32 272 80 63. The National Museum was originally established in 1905 as a private collection for the church by metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky. It was later transferred to the city in 1913. Throughout its more than 100 years of existence an extraordinary 130 thousand exhibits have been collected. The museum‘s Arriving in a city for the first time, most sane travellers pride is also Ukraine‘s largest display of Ukrainian sacral art, don’t head straight for the local cemetery. But Lviv is which dates from the 12th-18th centuries. Icons, sculptures, unique in many ways, and one of the city’s most distinc- manuscripts and decorative carvings immortalize Ukraine‘s tive, beautiful and historic locales is the Lychakivs’ke religious past. Tours are available in English, Polish, Russian Cemetery. Believe it or not, this is an ideal location to and Ukrainian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission begin your exploration of Lviv’s diverse history, fascinating 17Hr, students 6.50Hr. culture and stunning art: what Père Lachaise is to Paris, Lychakivs’ke is to Lviv. Religion History Museum D-3, Museina pl. 1, Domini- can Cathedral, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 00. This distinctive Officially established in 1786 by Austro-Hungarian au- museum displays exhibits representing Ukraine’s national thorities, the first burials actually took place in the 16th religions and is located with the Dominican Cathedral. The century. Since then, more than 400,000 inhabitants have cathedral was originally constructed in the second half of been laid to rest beneath these hallowed and enigmatic the 13th century by Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, in grounds. Grave markers hold mournful tributes inscribed recognition of Lviv’s gracious Dominican monks. The museum in Ukrainian, Russian, German, Polish, Armenian and opened in 1972 and was dedicated to the history of religion Latin - evidence of the city’s diversity and turbulent past. and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. There Throughout the 19th century, plots were reserved by elite are more than 50 thousand exhibits and include a magnificent and middleclass families, artisans, scientists, spiritual assembly of icons from the 16th-19th centuries, an impres- leaders and politicians. sive set of Torahs and Bibles and voluminous displays of For obvious reasons, this trend shifted during the So- Russian old prints. One of the museum’s most valuable pieces viet era, and resulted in a fascinating contrast: wedged is Ivan Fyodorov’s Ostroh Bible. Fyodorov, an exiled Muscovite, between ancient chapels and elite family crypts stand established Ukraine’s first printing press in Lviv. Works by simple monuments, tributes to departed communists. numerous renowned theologians from Ukraine and abroad Communal graves of soldiers and freedom fighters can representing Catholicism, Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and also be found. The most renowned is the grave of the other religions are on display in the library. An archaeological Lwów Eaglets. The Eaglets were Polish child soldiers who exhibition entitled “The Museum’s Treasure” is located in the defended Lviv during the Polish-Ukrainian War (1918- cellar. The cathedral also hosts concerts and organ recitals. 1919). Lviv was ultimately seized by the Soviet Union QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, 3Hr for in 1939; the grave was desecrated and turned into a children and students. Night excursion - 500Hr. dump in 1971. The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” C-3, Despite opposition by Ukrainian nationalists, the site Drukars‘ka 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 41. If you haven‘t was restored and reopened in 2005. Lychakivs’ke is noticed by now, Ukrainians love pharmaceuticals. There‘s a protected historical monument. This is a much de- a drug store on practically every corner of every city! The served designation, as it rivals many of Europe’s ancient foundation of a museum dedicated to the apothecary is necropolises in not only size, but in the beauty of its very fitting. The Pharmacy Museum is located in a drugstore sculptures. Visitors are often stopped in their tracks by established in 1735 by a military pharmacist. The drugstore the remarkable statue of an angle gazing sadly towards remains in operation and continues to mix its signature “Iron heaven. Grief, strength and sacrifice are the dominant wine” used to treat anaemia. This distinctive angular house themes represented in these gripping monuments. Plan on the corner of Drukars‘ka and Stavropihiyska hosts an on spending at least a few hours if you hope to see them exposition of more than 3,000 articles. The most curious of all, and for those with time limitations the sculptures which are the pharmaceutical scales located in the opening located at the graves of Armenian Archbishop Samuel hall. The second hall was originally used as a stockroom and Stefanowicz, Dr. Józef Torosewicz and actress Regina currently displays pharmaceutical instruments from a variety Markovsky (Sleeping Beauty) are not to be missed. of epochs. Within the third hall you‘ll discover an ancient K-4. laboratory that was reproduced on the basis of pictures and Lychakiv Cemetery (Lychakivs‘kyi Tsvyntar) QAdmission 10Hr, 5Hr for children. engravings. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 5Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr. lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 48 FeLviv’sature region Castles

Zolochiv Zolochiv towards the thorn wreath. If you want a romantic adventure, twist towards the blooming wreath. If the wish does not It was over 350 years ago in France during the time of the come true, then sorry! it was not the right finger. All you can musketeers and Cardinal Richelieu. Young Marie Casimire do is return to Zolochiv Castle one more time and try again... Louise de la Grange d’Arquien, daughter of the captain of the royal guard and of the King’s governess, journeyed east to a Getting there remote country. The girl was a lady-in-waiting for the French From Lviv bus station #6 (K-3, Lychakivska 154) buses de- princess Ludwika Maria Gonzaga de Nevers, the bride of Pol- part every 20 minutes to Zolochiv. It should take you some ish King Wladislaw IV Waza. Marie - or “Marysenka” (as she more then an hour. was known in Polish). She did not expect that in time Poland’s To get there by car from the city centre head toward Vinnyky throne would be hers along with a number of legends and (Винники), then follow H2 highway to Zolochiv (Золочiв). stories surrounding the most romantic love-story in central Europe. In the 1690s, Marie often vacationed in Zolochiv. Zhovkva This was when a Chinese palace appeared in the castle, Numerous Ukrainian towns and villages can boast of having something quite unusual for this region. Though researchers the remnants of ancient fortifications, but only the small can not find actual features of Chinese architecture in this district centre of Zhovkva in the Lviv region has an absolute building, the imagination of the local craftsmen who had right to call its fortress “ideal”. Here, in the first half of the never visited China in their lives created a true architectural XVII century the only mint in the territory of Ukraine was masterpiece. in operation with the coins being minted from silver that The special pride of Zolochiv Castle were… its washrooms. belonged to the Hetman Zolkiewski’s widow. Yes, common toilets, which were a great rarity at the time. At the beginning of the XVII century it had three storeyed And those of Zolochiv were made so skillfully that they have corner towers, an entrance gateway in the north-eastern been studied even by modern specialists! wall, and fighting galleries with loopholes along the walled Near the castle gates there are several 10 ton giant stones perimeter. The south-western wing was decorated with an brought from another castle in the Lviv region that was open gallery and arcades and it served as a palace. Unfor- destroyed in the 16th century. Several lines in an unknown tunately luxurious halls, a treasury and an armoury can not language are carved into the grey background, and above be restored but the façade of the former outpost is again those lines there are two separate woven wreaths – thorn the town’s showpiece due to restoration began in 2003. and poppy. Between the wreaths there is a small hole. It is Near the castle at the foot of the mountain a well-known said that if you have a secret wish, you should put your finger “menagerie” is situated – a park where deer and chamoises into the hole and twist it quickly. If the wish is material, twist graze on green meadows. Hunting has always been a favourite

Zhovkva Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com LVIV’s region castles 49

Olesky pastime for all the various castle owners – the Zolkiewskis, the Having prevented the Ottoman empire from conquering Danylowyczis and their grandson, the Polish king, Jan III Sobeski. Europe and reached the summit of his life, Jan returns to During 1604–1609 the Roman-Catholic church of St. Lavren- his native land. Olesky castle, sold for the debts of son-in- tiy (Laurence) appeared here. It became a regular gathering law, Andrzej Koniecpolski, in 1682 was bought for a then- place of the Sobeski and the Zolkiewski families. astronomic sum of 400,000 zlotys. His beloved wife Marysia In 1741-1742 the Italian architect Antonio Kastell expanded finished restoring the castle before the return of her hero. the palace from the stronghold, decorating the portico and The gates were rebuilt, the chapel was painted, the rooms the staircase with the sculptures of Lithuanian and Polish were decorated with paintings and the floors were laid with crown hetmans. marble. In this cosy nest, the royal family liked to vacation at In 1809 a ball was held in honour of Napoleon Bonaparte. the end of summer. From this base, Jan visited his manors The next owner of the castle was Artur Glodowski. In 1887 in Zolochiv and Pidhirtsi and went hunting. he sold one by one some of the walls, arcades, portico with After Jan III, the life of Olesky castle fades for many years the sculptures and one castle tower …to be used as building and revives only in 1974, when the stronghold becomes an materials. And in 1915 a fire broke out. annex of the Lviv Art Gallery. Not only the castle itself, but Today Zhovkva is rising from the ruins. also the grand park laid around it, are worthy of praise. Rare Getting there species of trees, a fruit garden, fountains and sculptures From Lviv to Zhovkva you can get by taxi or public transporta- on one of the park terraces create an inimitable ensemble. tion. A walk from Zhovkva station where you arrive, to the Getting there castle, takes no more than 10 minutes. The town is small From Lviv bus station #2 (B.Khmelnyts’koho 225) take a bus enough and all its sights are located close to one another. Lviv-Brody (every 20-30 minutes). Zhovkva is located about 30 km to the north of Lviv. From Olesko is located 70 km to the north-east of Lviv. From Bohdana Khmelnyts’koho Str. follow highway M09. In about Bohdana Khmelnyts’koho Str. follow highway E40 (M06). half an hour you should reach Zhovkva. Don’t miss the right turn in Mali Pidlisky (Малi Пiдлiски). Olesky Castle is open daily 10:00 - 16:30, except Mondays. Olesky A stylish Grydnytsia restaurant also welcomes guests at The place where Polish King Jan III Sobieski spent many the castle (tel.: +38 067 671 1303, www.grydnycia.lviv.ua). years of his life. The old castle, mentioned in written sources for the first time in 1327, has a lot to tell after almost seven Original texts and photos by Iryna Pustynnikova centuries of existence. www.castles.com.ua

Olesky lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 50 Mail & Phones Shopping

Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so Kharkiv 57 Mykolaiv 51 Vinnitsa 43 often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive Kherson 55 Odesa 48 Zaporizhya 61 at its intended destination. The post office remains a Khmelnytsky 38 Poltava 53 Zhytoymyr 41 throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confus- ing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a pack- The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an age or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by “0” if dialing from another Ukrainian town. the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you. International country codes Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48 Mobile phones Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40 There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Lviv - Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7 direct numbers (which do not differ from the Lviv fixed line Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34 numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46 (these should be preceded by 0 and the operator’s code). Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey 90 SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380 calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK 44 do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1 use the local provider’s service. SIM cards are available in The above International country codes should be prefixed special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on with “0-0” if dialing from inside Ukraine. the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same locations. Beeline H-2, Torhova pl. 11, tel. (+380) 32 244 44 10, Laptop login www.beeline.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Wi-Fi Kyivstar C-4, Valova 11, tel. (+380) 32 240 88 88/ There are now a number of places in Kyiv which provide Wi-Fi (+380) 32 290 11 90, www.kyivstar.net. QOpen 09:00 connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for Life B-4, Hryhorenka pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 69 46, the W symbol in our guide. The service is usually free at www.life.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - hotels and restaurants, but in some venues the connection 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. costs around 10Hr per hour. MTS Tarasa Shevchenka prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 240 00 00, www.mts.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 3G & 4G 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offer- ing 3G & 4G service. You need to have a compatible telephone or modem to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards can be found Using a telephone at any one of the service centres of companies mentioned Fixed line telephone in Mobile phones section above. The same service centres To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a long- can also refill your account and help with setting up a con- distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial nection to the Internet. the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Lviv’s city code (32) and then the number. Post To make an international call, dial 0, wait for the tone, and then Central Post Office A-5, Slovats‘koho 1, www. dial 0 plus the country code, city code and number itself. ukrposhta.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukrainian city codes Cherkasy 47 Kirovohrad 52 Rivne 36 Public internet access Chernihiv 46 Kyiv 44 Sevastopol 69 Chernivtsi 37 Kyiv Region 45 Simferopol 65 Chorna Medeya H-3, Petra Doroshenka 50, tel. (+380) Dnipropetrovsk 56 Luhansk 64 Sumy 54 32 261 02 50. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 6-9Hr per hour. Donetsk 62 Lutsk 33 Ternopil 35 Maximum C-5, Kniazia Romana 2, tel. (+380) 32 235 29 Ivano-Frankivsk 34 Lviv 32 Uzhhorod 31 51. Also at Melnyka 18. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 4-8Hr per hour.

Potocki Palace Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Shopping 51

Antiques Shopping Malls AntiqUA D-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 242 04 23/ (+380) 67 948 48 97. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Leopolis Arsenal Salon D-4, Pidval’na 5, tel. (+380) 32 275 30 Stryis’ka 30, Sokilnyky, 55. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. tel. (+380) 32 242 05 80, Art Vernisazh B-2, Teatral’na 23A, tel. (+380) 322 72 [email protected], 00 54. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. www.kingcross.com.ua. Gothic Hall C-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 60 91. King Cross is the largest mall QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. in western Ukraine. The mall has a total area of 116 546 Books sq. m. on two levels; including an Auchan hypermarket with Knyharnia Ye B-4, Svobody prosp. 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 an area of 13 000 sq. m. and over 100 commercial stores, 85 74. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. The mall is bright and Ukrains’ka Knyharnia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 6, spacious. One could imagine oneself in any major city in tel. (+380) 32 272 16 30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat the world! For recreation there is a bowling alley, ice rink, 09:00 - 15:00. and an Imax movie complex. There is plenty of parking, both above and below ground. A taxi from the city centre Food & Drink costs 40-50Hr. There are some city based marshrutkas Alco Market A-3, Teatral’na 8, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 to/from the Mall but we weren’t that adventurous. Future 69. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A expansion of the mall is planned and will include an ad- ditional 130 stores, and the parking area will be increased Opera Market A-3, Svobody prosp. by 600 parking spaces. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAL 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 07, www. Magnus A-2, Shpytal’na operapassage.com/en. A wide range 1, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 of gourmet foods from various corners of 65, www.magnus-store. Europe, fresh vegetables and fruits, own com. The original building of pastry - any products for different tastes. A cellar in the the Magnus shopping centre basement contains a great variety of first class vines. was built in 1912-1913 by QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AW the renowned Polish architect Roman Felinski. Architecture Polyana A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 2, tel. (+380) 32 240 historians believe that the 30 03 QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A model for the architect was Svit Napoiv A-3, Svobody prosp. 25, tel. (+380) 32 260 the structure of the shopping centre in Berlin on Leipziger 13 59. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Strasse built in 1896 by the architect Alfred Messel. It is a shining example of world industrial-commercial architecture Gifts & Souvenirs of the early 20th century. Until 2003 it was known as the Soviet style department store TsUM. It is considered by Magnets Museum-Shop C-4, Serbs‘ka 9, tel. (+380) some as the best shopping centre in Western Ukraine. 32 235 80 32, www.muzey.lviv.ua. There are many international brands represented such as; Trussardi, Ferre, Apriori, Oui, Carre Blanc, Blumarine, John Opera Decor A-3, Svobody prosp. Richmond etc. Magnus is situated in the very centre of Lviv. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 07, www. The sight from the bistro windows on the top floor is lovely. operapassage.com/en. Heartful souve- One can see the Opera House, Vysokyi Zamok, streets nirs and gifts, hand-made by Lviv artists and the old city. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAULW or imported from renown craftsmen hot spots. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. AW Opera Passage A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 245 20 36, Ravlyk B-4, Svobody prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 243 35 www.operapassage.com/ 99, www.ravlyk-art.com.ua. Art salon and gallery. QOpen en. This modern and classy 10:00 - 18:00. shopping mall found its place Tsikava Kramnychka A-6, Stefanyka 15, tel. (+380) right in the very heart of Lviv 32 261 00 01. on Svobody prosp. in a few steps from the Opera Thea- tre. The building which now Jewellery hosts Opera Passage long ago was a luxurious hotel and during the Soviet times it hosted a fashion house. Kolektsiya Jewellery Boutique B-4, Today Opera Passage occupies 7 floors or 5500 sq. Teatralna 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 68 76, m. of the historical building. A wide range of well-known www.jbk.com.ua. Nearby impressive Latin brands could be found here which can satisfy the most Cathedral this unique shop stands. The jewel- hard-to-please customers. Women and men clothes, lers presented here are made by craftsmen shoes, underwear, accessories, jewellery, cosmetics, from around the world,. There is also a huge perfumes and kids’ supplies will offer their best for you. selection of unique jewel pieces from Ukrainian masters For your service there are also a number of restaurants with local flavour and elegance. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. and cafés, supermarket and premium wine cellar one can AW get high quality alcohol. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PAW lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 52 Lifestyle directory Business directory

24-hour pharmacies Dentists Apteka #12 G-3, Ivana Ohiyenka 5, tel. (+380) 32 274 ABM-Vitadent I-4, Skel‘na 1/9, tel. (+380) 32 260 23 85 35. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 57. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Apteka #2 A-3, Tyktora 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 48. Ortadent Assistance G-3, Zamknena 6, tel. (+380) QOpen 24hrs. 32 297 07 47. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. D.S. C-4, Halyts’ka 19, tel. (+380) 32 274 20 06. K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs‘koho 27/2, tel. (+380) 32 237 QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Tico C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 87. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Fitness clubs Beauty salons Ellada F-4, Mel’nyka 18, tel. (+380) 32 298 16 62. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J-3, Lychakivs’ka 45, tel. (+380) 32 275 50 Aphrodita Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 49. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. C Aventin G-3, Petra Doroshenka 23, tel. (+380) 32 261 03 20. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Formula of beauty Stryiska 202, tel. (+380) 32 295 85 55. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Bel Palaссo C-6, Saksahans’koho 10, tel. (+380) 32 261 66 82, fax (+380) 32 261 66 98. Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) Elite D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 4, tel. (+380) 32 32 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 275 68 92. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. 21:30. Formula of beauty K-4, Levyts’koho 4, tel. (+380) 322 25 58 57. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Lel C-3, Drukars’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 36/261 Billiard & Bowling 66 82, fax (+380) 32 261 66 98. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Berkli K-5, Kerchens’ka 15A, tel. (+380) 32 276 14 69. Sun 10:00 - 16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. 30-36Hr per hour. Sharel H-3, Kopernyka 30, tel. (+380) 32 244-44-47, Billiard Centre G-1, Kleparivs’ka 30, tel. (+380) 32 www.sharel.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 233 32 94. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 30-40Hr. VIP hall - 60Hr. - 14:00. Victoria C-3, Danyla Halyts’koho pl. 3/1A, tel. (+380) Classic E-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380) 32 238 13 98. 32 297 56 19. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. 45Hr per hour. Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Mi 100 Naukova 7, tel. (+380) 32 224 47 53/(+380) 93 783 51 83, www.mi100.lviv.ua. This is a great adult entertainment center located in the outskirts of Lviv so a car Private clinics or taxi is advised. There is a proper 8 lane bowling, billiards, a pub with live music daily, karaoke and a strip club. There is Alternatyva E-5, Heroiv UPA 73, tel. (+380) 32 232 a lounge for relaxing and a great restaurant with European 77 83/(+380) 32 230 18 72, www.alt-med.com.ua. cuisine. There is outdoor seating in warm weather. QOpen The main area of Alternatyva is treating all kinds of infertil- 10:00 - 06:00. 90-165Hr. TA ity of men and women. Also the clinic provides all kinds of gynaecological services from preventive examinations for Ostrava Bowling E-5, Yevhena Konoval’tsya 103, tel. ultrasound examination of internal organs. Pregnant women (+380) 32 295 38 86. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 60-120Hr are examined using the latest ultrasound equipment that al- per hour. lows to detect pathology fatal development even at the early stages of pregnancy. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 Closed Sat, Sun. Swimming pools Lviv Regional Diagnostic Centre K-3, Pekarska 69B, tel. (+380) 32 275 49 90. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Aquapark Kniahyni Olhy 114, tel. (+380) 32 263 60 Medical F-3, Horodots‘ka 85/227, tel. (+380) 32 240 55. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 20-40Hr. 37 67, www.medikal.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat Dynamo G-4, Vitovs’koho 53, tel. (+380) 32 238 64 16. 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Q 06:00 - 08:15, 13:30 - 15:00, 19:15 - 21:30. 25Hr per hour. Prostir Medical Centre A-3, Svobody prosp. 33, tel. Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 (+380) 32 242 15 90, www.prostir.lviv.ua. QOpen 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 70Hr per hour. 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs‘koho 27/2, tel. (+380) 32 237 32 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. 80Hr per hour. 30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Children - 40Hr. Dry cleaners Bulbashki (Bubbles Laundry) Volodymyra Velykoho Tennis 117, tel. (+380) 32 247 49 24, [email protected], Dynamo Yaneva 10, tel. (+380) 32 263 24 20. QOpen bulbashki.com. QOpen 9:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PUV 07:30 - 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L Chysto A-4, Petra Doroshenka 15, tel. (+380) 32 298 Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 94 74. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. 60Hr per Eurochystka A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 17. Also at I-4, hour. AL Ivana Franka 61, tel. 0 32 276 27 79; A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka Ukraina F-4, Mel’nyka 18, tel. (+380) 32 237 73 32. 6. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L

Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Business directory 53

Accountants & Consulting Officials

European Business Association City Council C-4, pl. Rynok 1, tel. (+380) 32 254 G-4, Stepana Bandery 6, office 3, tel. 60 06, fax (+380) 32 274 40 85, www.city-adm.lviv. (+380) 32 261 29 28, fax (+380) 32 ua/zed/index.php?lang=en. 261 22 68, [email protected], www. Ministry of Foreign Affairs D-4, Volodymyra Vyn- eba.com.ua. EBA brings together more than 800 Euro- nychenka 18, office 118-119, tel. (+380) 32 235 64 pean, Ukrainian and multinational companies to enjoy a 78/(+380) 322 98 62 55, www.mfa.gov.ua/mfa/en. broad scope of unique benefits and activities.

PricewaterhouseCoopers E-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel. Hungary Kniahyni Olhy 116, tel. (+380) 322 64 58 22/ (+380) 32 242 53 05, [email protected], www. (+380) 322 24 43 90, fax (+380) 322 64 15 23. pwc.com/ua. Italy C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 27 56. Kazakhstan G-2, Yakova Rappoporta 6, tel. (+380) Banks 322 25 57 67. Erstebank B-4, Svobody prosp. 5, tel. (+380) 32 298 Latvia Viacheslava Chornovola 57, tel. (+380) 322 40 90 86, www.erstebank.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. 33 70/(+380) 322 94 82 20, fax (+380) 322 94 82 23. Closed Sat, Sun. Lithuania H-4, Kotsubyns’koho 13/1, tel. (+380) 322 Prominvestbank B-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 2, tel. 98 96 50. (+380) 32 260 14 92, www.pib.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Mexico D-6, Akademika Bohomol’tsya 15, tel. (+380) 322 75 95 95, fax (+380) 322 25 77 56. Raiffeisen Bank Aval A-5, Kopernyka 14, tel. (+380) 32 297 06 75, www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Netherlands G-5, Akademika Sakharova 42, tel. (+380) Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 322 97 19 06/(+380) 322 97 14 49. Ukreximbank B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 4, tel. (+380) 32 Poland I-5, Ivana Franka 110, tel. (+380) 322 97 08 297 01 77, www.eximb.com/eng. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. 61/(+380) 322 97 08 62. Ukrsotsbank B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 10, tel. (+380) 32 Russia K-4, Levyts’koho 95, tel. (+380) 322 75 24 63/ 244 05 01/(+380) 32 244 05 58, www.usb.com.ua/en. (+380) 322 75 05 77, www.lviv.mid.ru. Evening cashier’s office until 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Laweyrs Express mail Arzinger G-4, Henerala Chuprynky 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 96 96, [email protected], www.arzinger.ua. QOpen DHL E-3, Chernivets’ka 9, tel. (+380) 32 242 64 00, fax 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 0 32 242 64 01, www.dhl.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. J&L Consulting H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 11, tel. (+380) FedEx Naukova 5A, office 215, tel. (+380) 32 298 322 97 05 97, fax (+380) 322 97 05 95, [email protected], 16 05, www.fedex.com. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed www.j-l.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sat, Sun. Kaizen G-5, Komaryntsia 2, tel. (+380) 32 247 35 36, TNT Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho 212, corp. 2, tel. (+380) [email protected], www.kaizen-law.com. 32 242 02 50, www.tnt.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Lviv Regional Lawyers Bar D-4, Volodymyra Vyn- UPS Horodots’ka 205, tel. (+380) 32 238 43 55/297 nychenka 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 16 24. QOpen 07 48, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun. A Soldatenko, Lukashyk & Partners C-3, Virmens’ka 18/18, tel. (+380) 32 235 76 42, [email protected], Foreign representations www.slp.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Austria C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 26, tel. (+380) 322 61 20 14. Translators & Language courses Belarus E-3, Hors’koii 2, tel. (+380) 322 37 27 30/ (+380) 322 99 24 60, fax (+380) 322 99 24 60. International House I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 90, www.ihlviv.com. QOpen 10:00 Belgium D-6, Ivana Franka 14, tel. (+380) 32 260 20 - 18:00. 80/(+380) 32 260 01 49. Language Fast D-6, Levyts’koho 3/1, tel. (+380) Brazil E-2, Cholovs’koho 2, tel. (+380) 322 97 11 51/ 32 275 16 19. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. (+380) 322 97 65 08, fax (+380) 322 97 11 77. Closed Sun. Canada D-5, Akademika Bohomoltsya 2, ap.4, tel. Lider - Centre of Foreign Languages I-4, Ivana Franka (+380) 322 97 17 72, fax (+380) 322 97 81 54. 33, office 4, tel. (+380) 32 243 69 16, [email protected], Georgia B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 97 40 www.lider.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 98/59 32 32, fax (+380) 322 76 94 84. Runa Agency of Foreign Languages B-5, Germany D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) Chaikovs’koho 12/12, tel. (+380) 32 298 69 69, www. 322 75 71 02, fax (+380) 322 76 28 40. runa.org.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. lviv.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 54 Street register

Kotsylovs’koho J/K-5 Opryshkivs’ka J-1 Stara B-2, H-2 Krakivs’ka B-2/3, C-3, I-2 Ostapa Nyzhankivs’koho Staroyevreis’ka C/D-4, I-3 Krekhivs’ka G/H-1 C-5, I-3 Stavropihiys’ka C-3, I-2 Kremenets’ka E-5 Ostrohrads’kyh G-5 Staroznesens’ka K-1 Kropyvnyts’koi pl. F-3 Ostrozhs’koho K-3 Staryi Rynok pl. B-2, I-2 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Kryva Lypa prov. A-4, H-3 Ozarkevycha F/G-3 Staryts’koho F-4 Kubiyovycha I-5 Ozheshko E-5 Stepana Bandery F-3/4, G-4 Akademika Andriya Henerala Hryhorenka pl. H-2 Kushevycha H-1 Paliia I-4 Stefanyka A-5/6, B-6, H-3/4 Sakharova F-5, G-4/5 Henerala Hrytsaia J/K-5 Kvitky-Osnovianenka F-2 Panchyshna K-5 Stets’ka C-6, I-4 Akademika Bohomol’tsia Henerala Tarnavs’koho Kvitneva F-5 Panteleymona Kulisha Storozhenka E-2 D-5/6, I-3 J-4/5, I-5 Kyivs’ka F-4 A-1/2, H-1/2 Strimka I-1 Akademika Filatova J-3 Henerala Yunakieva E-1/2 Kyryla i Mefodiia H/I-4 Paparivka I/J-1 Stryis’ka G/I-5 Akademika Hnatiuka Henerala Zasiad’ka G-5 Lazneva A-2, H-2 Parfanovychiv J-3 Students’ka J/K-5 A-3/4, H-2/3 Heroiv UPA E/F-4 Lemkivs’ka H-1 Parkova I-5 Sviatoho Yura pl. G-3 Akademika Kravchuka J-3 Hertsena C-6, I-4 Leontovycha G-2 Pasternaka E-4 Svobody prosp. H-2/3 Akademika Krypiakevycha Hlibova H-4 Lesi Ukrainky B/D-3, I-2 Pavla Kovzhuna B-5/6, I-3 Sydora Holubovycha F-3 K-3 Hlyboka F/G-4 Lesia Kurbasa A-3/4, H-2 Pavlyka J-4 Tamans’ka H-2 Akademika Liul’ky A-1, H-1 Holovats’koho F-3 Levandivs’ka E-1 Pekars’ka D-5, I/J-3, J/K-4 Tatars’ka H/I-1 Akademika Pavlova J-4 Hopsova E-5 Levyts’koho D-6, I/K-4 Peremys’ka E-5 Teatral’na B-2/4, H-2, I-3 Akademika Romana Kuchera Horodots’ka Liainberha H-2 Pereyaslavs’ka J-5 Tekhnichna G-3 G-2 A/B-2, A-3, E/G-3, G/H-2 Lips’ka E-4 Perova F-3 Tershakivtsiv J-3/4 Akademika Serhiya Horodyns’kyh E-5 Lisna K-2/3 Petra Doroshenka Teslenka H-1 Yefremova E-5, F-4 Hrabovs’koho G/H-4 Litnia H-5 A-4/5, B-4, G/H-3 Tobilevycha F-4 Albans’ka K-5 Hrebinky H-2 Lobachevs’koho I-1 Pid Dubom H-1 Tomashivs’koho B-6, H-3 Anatoliya Vakhnianyna K-5 Hrets’ka H-5 Lukasha G-5 Pidval’na D-3/4, I-2/3 Torhova pl. A-2, H-2 Aral’s’ka K-5 Hryhorovycha B-6, I-3/4 Luts’koho E-1/2 Pidmurna B-2, H-2 Tsekhova H-1 Arkhitektors’ka G-3/4 Hutsul’s’ka J-2 L’va Tolstoho I/J-5 Pidzamche I-1 Tugan-Baranovs’koho J-3/4 Azovs’ka K-5 Hvardiys’ka G-4/5 Lychakivs’ka I/K-3 Pisha C-2, I-2 Turets’ka H-5 Bankivs’ka A-4, B-4/5, H-3 Illariona Sventsits’koho I-5 Lypneva pl. E-4 Piskova K-3 Turians’koho F-1 Barvins’kyh J-2 Ivana Bohuna G-4 Lysenka D-3, I/K-2 Pochaivs’ka K-1 Tutunnykiv I-5 Baturyns’ka G-1 Ivana Fedorova Lystopadovoho Chynu G/H-3 Pogulianka K-5 Tykha B-5, H-3 Bazarna G-1/2 C-3/4, D-4, I-2/3 Lyzhvjiars’ka H-5 Pokhyla G-5 Tyktora A-3, H-2 Beryndy B/C-4, H/I-3 Ivana Franka D-5/6, I-3/4 M. Slobodivny J-4 Polischuka E-4 Ulasa Samchuka I-5 Bibliotechna G-3/4 Ivana Franka pl. I-5 Magazynova F-2 Politekhnichna G-4 Universytets’ka H-3 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Ivana Gonty B/C-2, I-2 Maiera Balabana A-2, H-2 Popovycha B-6, H/I-4 Ustyianovycha G-3 B-1/2, H/J-1, H/I-2 Ivana Gorbachevs’koho F-5 Maksyma Kryvonosa Povstans’ka E-5 Uzhhorods’ka C/D-1, I-2 Bohdana Lepkoho I-2/3 Ivana Karpyntsia G-5 D-2, I/J-2 Profesors’ka G-3/4 Vagova A-2, H-2 Boi-Zelens’koho G-5 Ivana Levyns’koho F-4 Maksyma Zalizniaka E-4 Prosvity D-4, I-3, J-2 Valova C/D-4, I-3 Bolhars’ka H-5 Ivana Ohiyenka G-2/3 Mala J/K-3 Pryrodna F-5 Vasylevycha J-4 Borysa Romanyts’koho G-4 Ivana Pidkovy pl. B-4, H-3 Malaniuka pl. B-5, H-3 Pyl’nykars’ka B-1, C-2, I-2 Vasylkivs’koho E-4 Brativ Mikhnovs’kyh F-2/3 Ivana Rutkovycha I-5 Marka Vovchka F-2/3 Repina K-3 Venetsianova H-4 Brativ Rohatyntsiv C/D-4, I-3 Ivana Sharanevycha E/F-2 Markiyana Shashkevycha pl. Rizni pl. A-2, H-2 Verkhats’koho J-3 Brativ Tymoshenkiv G-4 Johara Dudaieva B/C-6, H/I-3 G-4 Rodyny Krushel’nyts’kyh Vernyhory F-2/3 Briulova G-4 Josypa Slipoho J-4/5 Martovycha B/C-6, I-4 J/K-5 Vesela B-1, H-1/2 Brovarna G-2 Kalicha Hora A/B-6, H-4 Mateika G-3 Romanchuka J-4 Veteraniv G-1 Cathedral’na pl. B/C-4, I-3 Kameniariv G-3 Mechnikova K-3/4 Rudans’koho B/C-5, I-3 Viacheslava Chornovola prosp. Chaikovs’koho Karaims’ka I-1 Medova A/B-1, H-1 Rus’ka C/D-4, I-2/3 A-1/2, H-1/2 A/B-6, B/C-5, H/I-3 Karmaluka K-3 Mel’nyka E/F-4 Rusovyh F-4 Vicheva C-2, I-2 Chekhova J-3 Karpats’ka J-4/5 Mendeleeva H/I-4 Rybna C-2, I-2 Vicheva pl. B-3, H-2 Chereshneva I-4 Karpins’koho F-4, G-3 Mentsyns’koho H-2 Ryleieva G-3 Virmens’ka B/C-3, H/I-2 Chernihivs’ka J-3 Kastelivka F-5, G-4 Meretyna Bernarda F-3 Ryl’s’koho J-4 Vodohinna J-5 Chernivets’ka E-3 Katliars’ka H-2 Metrolohichna F-5 Rymlianyna D-5, I-3 Volodymyra Antonovycha Chervona F-5 Kerchens’ka K-5 Mickiewicza B-5, I-3 Rynok pl. C-3/4, I-2/3 E-4/5, F-4 Cholovs’koho E-2 Kharkivs’ka K-2/3 Modesta Sosenka F-1 S. Ludkevycha I-5 Volodymyra Ivasuka J-4/5 Danyla Halyts’koho pl. C-2, I-2 Khimichna H-1 Morozenka F-2 Sadovs’koho K-3 Volodymyra Korolenka J-2/3 Dekarta F-3 Kholodnoho K-5 Morshyns’ka F-5 Saksahans’koho C-6, I-4 Volodymyra Vynnychenka Denysa Lukjianovycha G-4 Khorvats’ka G-2 Muliars’ka A/B-1, H-2 Samiylenka I/J-4 D-2/5, I-2/3 Det’ka B-1/2, H-1 Khotyns’ka F-3 Muravy G/H-3 Sarjiana E-4 Voloschaka H/I-5 Dmytra Bortnians’koho E/F-2 Khudozhnia E-4 Museina pl. C-3, I-2 Schekavyts’ka E-2 Voloshyna C-6, I-3/4 Dmytra Danilyshyna A-2, H-2 Kleparivs’ka G-1/2 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho I-4 Schepkina G-3 Volos’ka I-5 Dmytra Dontsova J-3 Klionovycha D-6, I-3 Mykhaila Verbyts’koho G-4 Sechenova F-3 Vuz’ka J-3 Dmytra Huni F-1 Kniahyni Ol’hy F-5 Mykhaila Yatskoho F-1 Sels’kyh E-4/5 Viytovycha F-3 Dmytra Vitovs’koho Kniazha J-2 Mykhal’chuka A-3, H-2 Serbs’ka C-4, I-3 Vyshens’koho K-3 G/H-4, H/I-5 Kniazia Leva C-2, I-2 Myklukho-Maklaia J-2 Severy I-5 Vyshyvanoho pl. I-5 Dniprovs’ka J-4/5 Kniazia Mstyslava Udaloho Mykoly Voronoho B-5, H/I-3 Sheptyts’kyh F-3 Vysokyi Zamok D-1, I/J-2 Dolyns’koho H/I-1 A/B-2, H-2 Mykoly Zerova E-4 Shevchenka E-1, F/G2 Yakova Rappoporta G-2 Dorosha J-4 Kniazia Romana C-5/6, I-3 Mytna pl. D-5, I-3 Shevchenka prosp. Yapons’ka F-4 Drahomanova C-6, H/I-4 Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla Mytropolyta Andriya F-3 C-5/6, I-3/4 Yaroslava Mudroho F-2/3 Drohobycha A-4/5, H-3 pl. B-2, H-2 Mytropolyta Angelovycha F-3 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 Yaroslava Prstaka G-2 Drukars’ka C-3, I-2 Kniazya Sviatoslava pl. F-2 Mytropolyta Lepkivs’koho Shkil’na I-1 Yasna E-2 Dvortsova pl. E-3 Kobylians’koi I-4 K-2 Sholom-Aleikhema H-2 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 Dzherel’na H-1/2 Kokorudza F-4 Nalyvaika A-3, H-2 Shopena H-2 Yeroshenka E/F-1 Dzherel’na H-1 Kol’bera G-4 Nasypna C-2, I-2 Shota Rustavelli I-4/5 Yeroshenka G-1 Dzyndry H-5 Kolessy H-4 Nechuia-Levyts’koho G-4 Shpytal’na H-2 Yevgena Konoval’tsya Fed’kovycha E-3/4 Koliivschyny pl. D-4, I-3 Nekrasova J/K-3 Shukhevycha C/D-6, I-3 E-4/5, F-4 Ferentza Lizta B-5, H-3 Komarova E/F-2 Nizhyns’ka K-3 Shymzeriv K-4 Yevgena Petrushevycha I-4 Furmans’ka A-3, H-2 Komaryntsia G-5 Novakivs’koho G-3 Sians’ka B-2, H-2 Zakharievycha F-4 Galileia K-4 Konopnyts’koi I-4 Novyi Svit F/G-4 Sichovykh Stril’tsiv A-4, H-3 Zaklyns’kyh K-1 Gazova A-1, H-1 Konotops’ka E-5 Nyz’kyi Zamok B-3, H-2 Simsotrichchia H-1 Zaliznychna E-2/3 Glynky G-5 Kooperatyvna F-2/3 Odes’ka F-3 Skel’na I-4 Zamarstynivs’ka B-1, H-1 Gogolia G-3 Kopernyka Ohirkova I-1 Skliana F-1/2 Zamknena G-3 Gors’koii E-3/4 A-5/6, B-5, G/H-4, H/I-3 Oleksandra Arkhypenka I-4/5 Skovorody K-3 Zamkova C/D-1, D-2, I-1 Grunval’ds’ka F-4 Korduby J/K-1 Oleksandra Fredra C-6, I-3/4 Slovats’koho A-5, H-3 Zan’kovets’koi J-3 Haidamats’ka I-1 Korniakta B-3, H/I-2 Oleksandra Konys’koho I/J-4 Smal’-Stots’koho E-4 Zaryts’kyh H/I-5 Halyts’ka C-4, I-3 Koroliova J-5 Oleksandra Olesia K-5 Smerekova B/C-1, I-1 Zdorovjia F-4 Halyts’ka pl. 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. s vul. 23 p eika 6 6 20 s 106 t 2 Park Vor Shevchep. a vul. Skovorody 32 y ty v . 5 5 v 2 Pa a Ro 9 M 25 t a 9 106 s 7 9 21 12 ’ 2 vul. Hartma hi k 9 y 1 ky pl. Sviatoho Oleny vul. 41 pl. 2 vul. Peka 15 vul. 17 vul. Dm i Viytovycha 2 h Oleksy ivs 2 12 a 8 9 n tr ivs’koho 23 5 Kul’chyts’koi 1 32 vlaKovzhuna rs’ka 11 12 Malaniuka k 131 o Solomii Krushel’nyts’koi 28 vul. vul. Shept Yura ’k a 34 23 Tobilevycha pl. p Novakivs’koho a h 5 3 24 26 28 31 8 her o o Solomii m n 139 l 43 v 1 4 h 3 Rusalky vul. yk A vul. 33 C y o ev T1 11 ka . 141 Kropyvnyts’koho t ul Krushel’nyts’koi shenka . koho vu 34 vul. a l 6 a 6 45 Andriya . o Dnisrovoi Lviv Art Gallery u d 11А 48 l 39 ul v yleiDnister Stefanyka v 4 CA em . v 151 Ang Us К 3 na Pek ul. Gors’koii 28 2 a vul. ika BohMX 31 8 9 Dor 5 ikovs’ 5 6 t m a e 5 yi Tomashivs’koho 16 5 a 9 4 25vul. h 8 17 10 BY l e 49 3 r o a 12 n 9 vu s s’ka v nov vul. R 3 vul. 7 o ’k 53 41 t y 8 i 61 IT Shukhevycha8 m l. 50 a 10 c 22 a 64 23 ha 20 odo 165 Mytropolyta 11 r 7 8 nk ol’ts T 10 167 1 h i vul. C 10 11 u Hor 2 a 18 y 12 v eva 16 g v v 12 3 c 40А udayvul. Voloshyn . yc y i u v 66 3 D 22 l a a l. Nekrasova vul. Fed’kovychavul. vul. h u H a n 17 89 a Bibliot 51 15 18 hara 2 u -Baranovs’k s l 31 ov 26 . The Jo ryhorov v t 1 vul. Tekhnichna 2 20 5 n vul. Stepana 2 vul. Petra vul. S 2 v vul. Mechnikova 32 l. 3 o i 4 22 5 i 4 5 Scienti c 1 t 7 l 10 181 87 echna efan vu 9 26 2 19 K 28А vul. Karpins’koho 59 Library y vul. Ivana Fra ak 24 14 k 12 AT 4 21 30 23 a y 7 vul. ys’koho o h 77 (Ossolineum) v vu h vul. c vu n ul. M 25 vul. 4 o s vul. Kolessy rtsena12 12 h 8 Oleksandra Fredra l. Oleksandra Ko e 15 26 6 9 a 2 H l 39 a . a

71 24 7 L Ak B 2 a k er 11А

10 andery 14 2 ra a vul. 9 16 Profesors’ka y pl. Markiyana k 18 4 3 rt vycha 3А 1 e l T ileya vu

vul. Fed’kovychaLypneva 15 69 o o ’ 5 v l 30 Opil’s’koho 11 17 a 10

10 Arkhitektors’ka 3 s a 27 6 Rusovyh 57 Shashkevycha H 6 v a

Sarjianavul. S 55 t d pl. 17 vul. 47 45 vul. Stepana B 15 l. y P l. G vul. 4 My e 12 ta 36 e 52 5 8 33 29 12 6А 6 l. v 7 27 t 9 u 40 r v 22 1 2 andery u v S t m 6 2 u 1 y u 4 25 15 3 v l. Kali cha 34 s u 9 u S ’ 23 ika v v a 9 l 4 a t k k 6А 22 h l s . 3 vul. 3 l o 11 20 2 1 8 . Myk k . 20 vul. Shymzeriv c . 4 ’ haila V . povycha h y k 15 27 o Pavlo vul. Novyi 4 l vul. Hlib s 24 22 v K oh 8 11 10 2 ul

38 24 o iulova a 11 2 22 n 34 12 7 16 8 vu v 26 Eurohotel o y 3 o 12 10 Kol’bera1 Br 10 50 12 vul. Kutova vul. t i 1 9 vul. 8 vul. Po hans’koho va v 11 6 h Paliia 30 5 n vul. 10 vul. 1 Lviv Railway 13 8 1 s vul. Hlyboka 14 4 e 9 ka 7 a 12 2 vul. Pekars’ka vul. Smal’-St A ’k 8 8 15 rbyts’ y o 3 Mykoly Zerova P v History a a 2 Ya v 5 v ila Hr 11 2 Politekhnichna 29 vu a u r 14 12 po S u 8 n 12 a 2 1 37 y a ns’ka 14 16 23 r l. s l. 2912 v 9 5 v l . 3 4 vul. 9 ho Eney 10 24 it 31 33 vul. o t 27 o . e H l 30 vul. e m y 8 k 6 u 2 11А 3 10А 6 y m 21 k vs’koho oho p r v e Drahomanova s’k rn 17А Grunva 22 9 e 52 2 ab n tsia 26 u 13 l’ v d 21 18 1 n 3 N r o 6А e 4 nov s ul. a 44 V o 24 y 19 vul. ia 16 ov V a h v Zelena vul. 7 k 2 as l v 16 r v e 4 l 13 ev u 8 17 Ry a vu o 17 p 11 18 l . 37 Konopnyts’koyi ps 65 yl ul 22 ul. I c 7 s 2 32 . l Li l V vul u 15 Kot ’koho 30 vul. s 23 19 45 6 ’ k . . . 20 h h 16 ’ K k 46 9 i 7 K 11 k 1 vu vs’koho l. l’d y C u K oh o 12 23 a ivs 6 i s Romanchuka 50 u 21 9 a 8 . 9 6 6 15 76 vul. UPA v s’ 2 ergiya Yefre ’ka 4 6 va - 38 t 47 uka S 913 L vul. o 39 o 2 h 48 a e ul vul. Kolessy 20 15 ots’koho ka l 8 v m lisc 30 v 3 a 36 20 na Bohuna 8 Po 1 1/3 32 ik a 18 yt v 3 53

oi r 13 s 62 18 a 27 1

r m 12 ’k a 56 4 1 38 e National 38 r 20 ycha

LT e o 18 e n 3 h 45 k ov vul. v 2 27 2 o 47 pl. Yevgena

ad e 15 Museum vul. Dorosha9 8 le 38 k n a vul. Mel’nyk A vul. Zdorovjia H v Petrushevycha 37 Denisa Lukjianovycha 45 74 5 . vul. 21 u e Citadel Park a 12 vul. H 6 l . 25 Dmytrl. r vu u l 37А l. Vasy9 49 vul. Kokorudza v u 8 F5 Ske a oho Lviv-Backpackers 38 l’na 3 k 7 Ivana v 6 1 2 22 k 20 50 22 n 28 49 vul. Yevgena Konoval’tsya 4 20 i Zhukovs’koho Romanyt 65 30 ova 33 vs’ s’koho yla i Mefodiia ll k a r 21 a vul. Oleny Pchilky miyle 57 Le vul. y v e 46 vul. ul. Kobylians’koi n v Sa 16 10 yn liare 16 23 a hni a Vitovs’ 58 av l. Lychakivs’ke 12 Borysa 12 12 ul. K v c 65 vul. Khudoz s 4 v I vu 61 a ’k st v Cemetery v Zakharievycha 5 13 4 47 o 27 27 u ul u ul. vul. Mendele 63 50 16 ho vul. Kot 8 Kastelivka l. Tarnavs’koho . l 14 7 v Drahomanov31 . vul. Kotsubyns’koh 2 u R 96 L l. 2 e M 22 60 v v 7 51 47 9 vul. koh vul. 98 y Tymoshenkiv a 18 vul. vu 19 ts 91 a 61 24 a 22 ’ k 3 o 18 106 k 93 RU hnia k o Brativ 3 1 s 40 hota 50 ovs’k h 41 y 24 15 1 Henerala vul. Karpats’ka r a o 24 60А 18 e Chereshneva p m 86 20 va vul. 45 Me 57 9 37 66 U Burgera vul. Oleksandra Ar 112 diys' o a 62 . S 6 vul. 1 r l Dni 68 8 13 Ivasuk 20 72 22 u 10 l.

79 2 v 9 9 u ra 50 3 72 14 31 10 v Hva 41 y 67 ul. 75 116 83 Z ul. Sels’kyh 4 NL 30 1 o v vul. Metrolohichna 27 v 24 10 h khy 60 a 10 A. Voloschakao pl. Ivana 2 73 ka l vul. Ivan 40 ’k 76 penka ’ 10 19 1 i 8 Vul. vs 44 o 9 s ’ka z l. 33 D 74 my Тurets’ka o 34 ni 3 tra Vit Franka h 77 t 124 s a 2 2 2 u 2 vul. ka Bolhars’ka t . J o 18 15 n ika Sergiya Yefremova v 7 5А 46 l o 14 6 77 77 1 74 e 9А vul. 32 syp p 82 l. Volodym 8 1 5 m 42 39 4 vul. Volos’ka i 95 vul. 5 13 37 22 l u 27 vul. vul. vul. vu a v 3 Kremenets’ka a Hr 2 S a v 84 S. Ludkevych 19 1 vul 6 99 vul. Gorbachevs’koho Glynky Zaryts’ 14 6 . An vul. 78 79 H 63 o kyh 3 5 atoliya 81 86 16 2 r Memorial a 16 Zamok Leva 4 vu 18 10 l. Akade nny vul. Kvitneva Ivana 1 1 12 Va 83 7 Museum 13 vul. Stude khn vul. Volodymyra Antonovycha vu 5 Mor l. Ivana vul. L’va Tolstoho 70 2 ia B Students’kyi 2 e Central Park vul. Tutunnykiv 33 P Kotsylovs’k vul. P ny Ba vul. n a 8 4 Ka 72 71 4 er vul. oh na l. ah vul. a akha rpyntsi 72 32 o 7 vu Ozheshko rvin Park a 21 18 1 shyns’ka a 9 Iv 1 6 e oh vu 5 10 y ul 27 Konotops’ka o 84 9 ul. Kastelivka S vul. ana vul. as 9 ya l. k v a 2 v vu nk 20 vul F 2 4 lavs u l. Oleksandra Olesia a vul. 100 r S.Ludkevycha Basarab 2 l 12 Henerala vu Rutko. an . 11 94 a 14 P vu 37 19 10 l. Alba ns’ka 91 ’ u vul. Hipsova v h o l 4 l. ’hy 9 ka v ul. 81 Zasiad’k kh . Stryis’ka K l 11А 20 19 ndriy kas 4 k 2 ubiyovyc 1 4 43 oval’tsya89 2 50 u B 7 y O oliova P L oi 5 32 r l vy a 78 n a 104 89 o 28 e 3 83 6 - 95 26 103 K o r ch 15 hinna 91 em Z . 43 ul. . 9 y ka A hele l o 3 K vul. a vu v vul n 10 a y 98 u 3 ivvul. Rodyny Kru vul. k a 18 4 l. 7 ’12 13 n s mi vul. Ostrohrads’kyh12 ns v h 1 d s v ’k 87 21 a 17 H e u 2 ’ 8 pl. 107 Vod v l a k ener 5 o 18 . oho vul. S 2 106 h 88 vul. obo P z 5 y 40 24 Vyshyvanoho v l vul. Dzyndry ul. anchyshyna 5 evg P 18 16 100А 104А a u A l. 7 S Y 97 o kade ’ka vul. Il vul. Tutun la v 6 v rs 91 ul. 108 ia 23 T 4 He M.9 l. s A j v 17 v 106 a 2 u ta ads’k h . Parkova rnavs’koho n

ns 112 4А 4 r z n 109 er s v ’ka vul 4 51 a h

Антоновича 18 h y v 25 la Hrytsaya v L o el’n u o Hvardiys’ka vul. ul 18 l. K 15

114 8 r pkivs’ka hol vul. vul. a t . . 104Б

s l 6 rion n 108А od s’ka vul. Pryrodna u L y 3 1

4 v 1А yk 53 19 noh l’

20 itnya t vul. 42 34 s o a

110 i 17 vu r v 101 v ’ u ka PL 26 kyh l. Olen A l. maryntsia 48 u a 2 l. 10 Horodyns’k vul. O h 7 y u V c Sv 22 Te 17 v vul. Ol’zhycha 22 id lihy 8 56 k m 33 a entsits’k vul. Zelena yni Ol’hy ry 20 2 103 ta S g 45 7 Park ul. Ko a 1 v 3 a 15 ervona i 58

Piskovi Ozera 16 n s

a 104 l Severy 4 . 105 Ch K . I 35 yh ul oh v 25А . 18 . 1 Stryis’kyi Park l 60 o © ДНВП "Картографія", 2011 р.

ul Гіпсова u U vul. h e v v c n © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2011 р. er s’ v ka u l. vul. K y A k a d e ’ka m kivs ik ly a u An ala Chuprynk vul. K driya Sak ha ro va l. Hener vu

vul. Yuriya Mushaka

ги

Оль Stryis’ka і н

ги

Кня vul. 58 y ° ° 50 45 Shakht na-Donu Rostov- k Krasnodar Novocherkassk Luhans'k ° Krasnyi Luch 40 USSIAN

' Starobil'sk R n Alchevs'

a b

v u

FEDERATION UKRAINE K Novorossiysk Yenakiieve Taganrog Makiyivka Mariupol' Stakhano iv

a l ro

k P

Horlivka ky Berdyans'k ns he

v c Donets'k Ker Izyum Slovians'k ramators' Belgorod K Kostyantynivk Kerch A Kharki Kursk Feodosiya SEA OF AZOV Melitopo l’ ° Lozova Zaporizhzhia 35 Dnipropetrovs'k

Pavlohrad ° Marhanets'

a l k s 35 r o V k Yalta l’ Simferopol’ Sumy Kahovske Vdskh. Nikopo Poltava

Kryvyi Rih

a Dzhankoy Romny Nova Kakhovka

Kremenchu

k AUTONOMOUS

o REP. OF CRIMEA

t

a

a l

a n

u

s Konotop

S e Shostka Z D

Vody a

RUSSIAN FEDERATION Zhovti

Dniprodzerzhyns'k k '

Kherson s t

Sevastopol’ s

Lubny i

Yevpatoriya

n i

Pryluky k

Kremenchuts'ke Vdskh. r Smila

h a Bu d. K o iv r P

Chernihiv p ni BLACK SE ykolayiv

Nizhyn D Kirovohrad M Cherkasy Brovary Odesa Uman’ Homyel' ° ° 30 Kyiv 30 Bila Tserkva Mouths of the Danube Pervomays'k Chornobyl' Korosten' Izmayil Vinnytsia Chisinau Constanta

' VA s DO

t L

r O ut Reni a te M Pr y is F p

i n O

r D e

. i

P Zhytomyr Berdychiv P b

Novohrad- Volyns'kyi E u

Bat R n

Galati a Braila

Iasi D Varna Kamianets'-Podil's'kyi Rivne ret BULGARIA Si ELARU S Pinsk Ternopil' B 200 mi ' ° Khmel'nyts'kyi 25 300 km Kovel’ N S

Chernivtsi I

Kolomyya A Ivano-Frankivs'k

Luts'k T N

OBLAST U O ° Brest VOLYNS'KA M 25 200 250 Kalush Stryi N L'viv

A 100 150

I 150

H ROMANI A Lublin T Drohobych

n Mukacheve a A S OBLAST' National capital Republic Capital of Autonomous centre of Crimea and oblast' town City, Airport International boundary of Crimea Republic Autonomous boundary and oblast' Road Railroad 100

P 0 UKRAINE ZAKARPATS'KA R Uzhhorod

Przemysl A 50

a

Warsaw l

s C i

Oblast names are the same as their respective centres except were labelled . W 0 05 ° ° POLAND HUNGARY 50 45 SLOVAKIA

Lviv In Your Pocket Index 59

К.М.К. 52 D.S. 52 K-Kawa 36 Millenium 41 Partners 53 Aerosvit 7 Dublin 39 King Jan III Sobieski Palace Ministry of Foreign Affairs 53 Solomiya Krushelnytska Alekstra 36 Dynamo 52 43 MIXX Party Club & Opera and Ballet Theatre 10 Alternatyva 52 Dzyga 10 Knygarnia Ye 51 Restaurant 42 Soviet Home Hostel 22 Amadeus 28 Edem 18 Korzo Pub 39 Mons Pius: Beer and Meat 28 Split Club Lviv 32, 42 AntiqUA 51 Elite 52 Krakivska Brama 26 MTS 50 Stargorod Brewery 28 ABM-Vitadent 52 Eney 16 Kryjivka 33 Museum of Ethnography and Stari Mury 37 Apteka #2 52 Eurochystka 52 Kult Club 41 Art Crafts 47 Staryi Krakiv 19 Aquapark 52 Eurohotel 16 Kumpel 27 Music Lab 39 Steak House 30 Archive Pub 38 Europcar 7 Kupava 18, 30 Na Bambetli 36 St. George Cathedral 44 Arsenal 43 Europe 28 Kurmanovycha 21 Natalia 18 18 Strudel House 37 Arsenal Salon 51 European Business Kvartyra 35 36 National Museum 47 Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal 6 Art-11 10 Association 53 Kyivstar 50 Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya Sushi Kappo-IN 27 Art Vernisazh 51 Eurosport 52 Language Fast 53 Halychyny 30 Swiss Hotel 16 Atmosphera 27 Fashion Club 28 La Piazza 34 Netherlands 53 Sykhiv 20 Austrian Airlines 7 FedEx 53 Latvia 53 New York Street Pizza 32 Taj-Mahal 42 Aventin 52 Fenomen 40 Lel 52 Nobilis 33 Taron 26 Avis 7 Fest Tour 44 Lemberg Tour 44 Nostalgia 31 Teatral'ne 37 Backerei-café “Videnski First Ukrainian Theatre for Leo City 21 Nton 20 The Armenian Cathedral 45 bulochky” 35 Children and Youth 10 Leopolis 14 Old City Hostel 21 The Assumption Church 45 Beeline 50 Formula of beauty 52 Lerroy Country Club 41 Old Ukrainian Home 21 The Bernardine Cathedral Beer Garden 38 Fortuna De Luxe 40 Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Opera 14 and Monastery 45 Belarus 53 Frantsishka 35 Theatre 10 Ortadent Assistance 52 The Chapel of the Boim Belgium 53 Free Tours of Lviv 44 Lev Restaurant 30 Ostrava Bowling 52 Family 45 Bel Palaссo 52 Freska 35 Lider - Centre of Foreign Panorama 31 The Dominican Cathedral 45 Bianco Rosso 34 Gallery 41 Languages 53 Panska Charka 24 The Georgehouse hostel 22 Bicycle Rentals and Tours 44 Gallery of Ukrainain Military Life 50 Pan Tao 26 The Kosmonaut 22 Billiard Centre 52 Uniform 10 Lithuania 53 Picasso 42 The Latin Cathedral 46 Black Cat 38 Garbuz 24 Liverpool 39 Pid Klepsydroyu 36 The Lion's Castle 32 Black Coffee 35 Garmata 30 Livyi Bereg 30 Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu 36 The Lion's Castle Hotel 16 Black Stone House 43 Garry Bowman 10 LOT Polish Airlines 7 Piligrim 44 The Opera House 44 Brazil 53 Gasova Lyampa 35 Lviv 20 Pizzeria La Grotta 32 The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Brewing Museum 46 George 18 Lviv Art Gallery 10, 46 Planeta Kino (ІМАХ/3D) 10 Chornym Orlom” 47 British Council 10 Georgia 53 Lviv Backpackers Hostel Play Bar 40 The St. Peter and Paul Brudershaft 27 Gerdan 10 Roxelana 21 Poland 53 Church of the Jesuit Order 46 Bukhara 34 Germany 53 Lviv History Museum 46 Porokhova Vezha 24 Tico 52 Bulbashki 52 Goethe-Institute 10 Lviv Holovnyi Train Station 6 Pory roku 10 TNT 53 Cabinet 35 Gothic Hall 51 Lviv International Airport 6 Praga 27 Trapezna 32 Café 1 35 Grand Hotel 14 Lviv Museum of Ancient Praga Café 36 Tsikava Kramnychka 51 Canada 53 Grand Hotel Restaurant 30 Relics 46 Praga Pub 40 U Burgera 19 Carpatair 7 Grand Sophia 52 Lviv Palace of Arts 10 Prestige 19 Ukraina 52 Casanova 28 Hertz Rent a Car 7 Lviv Regional Dall Theatre 10 PricewaterhouseCoopers 53 Ukraine International Airlines Celentano 32 Hit-Café 30 Lviv Regional Diagnostic Prominvestbank 53 7 Central King's Pub 38 Hors 24 Centre 52 Prostir Medical Centre 52 Ukrains'ka Knyharnia 51 Central Post Office 50 Hungary 53 Lviv Regional Laweyrs Bar 53 Puzata Khata 30 Ukreximbank 53 Central Square Hostel 20 Iconart 10 Lviv's Chocolate Workshop Rafinad People 42 Ukrsotsbank 53 Charivnyi Likhtar 35 International House 53 36 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 53 UPS 53 Chopin 16 International Varenyky Fund Lvivska Kopalna Kavy 36 Ravlyk 51 Vezha Kramariv 32 Chorna Medeya 50 (IVF) 24 Lviv State Palace 10 Reikartz Dworzec 16 Vezha Vedmezha 22 Chudo Tour 44 Italian Yard 43 Lychakiv Cemetery 47 Reikartz Medievale 16 Victoria 52 Chysto 52 Italiys'kyi Dvoryk 36 Maestro Restaurant-Lounge Religion History Museum 47 Victorian 37 Citadel Inn 14 Italy 53 bar 31 Restoratsiaya na Valoviy 33 Vienna 19 City Council 53 J&L Consulting 53 Magnets Museum-Shop 51 Retro Hostel Shevchenko 22 Vintage 33 City Hall 43 Johann Pinzel Museum 46 Magnus 51 RoomMe - web portal of Vintage Boutique Hotel 18 Classic 52 Kaizen 53 Mapa 36 short-term apartment rent 21 Virmenka 37 Coffee home hostel 20 Kamianyi Lev 44 Maria Zankovetska National Runa Agency of Foreign Volter 19 Coffee in Leopolis 35 Karaoke Club 888 41 Academic Ukrainian Drama Languages 53 Voskresinnya Theatre 10 Cosmopolitan 39 Kartopliana Khata 30 Theatre 10 Rus'ka Street 44 Yapi 27 Cukiernia 35 Kavyarnia Ii Velychnist 36 Market Square 44 Russia 53 Yapona Hata 27 Darwin 28 Kazakhstan 53 Masoch Café 36 Salo Restaurant & Museum Zalena Kanapa 10 Del Pesto Siesta Restaurant Kentavr 24 Maximum 50 26 Zanzibar 42 34 Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa Medical 52 Seven Piggies 26 Zenyk Glamour 40 DeMandjaro 30 24 Medivnia 24 Sharel 52 Zenyk. Mytnyk 40 DHL 53 King Cross Leopolis 51 Metro 41 Shekspir 31 Zolotyi Dukat 37 Dim Legend 24 Kinopalace (3D) 10 Mexico 53 Sixt rent a car 7 Zolotyi Vepr 34 Dnister 16 Kinopalace Kopernyk 10 Mi 100 52 Soldatenko, Lukashyk &

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Summer 2012