Inside Prishtina: Rebirth of the Rilindja Building

October 16- 29, 2009 Issue No. 25 www.prishtinainsight.com Free copy OPINION The EU’s New Teta Mia solves ‘Carrot and your election Stick’ Approach problems to > page 13 ARTE By Lawrence Marzouk & Petrit Collaku ‘Laqhe aven’ to the he European Commission has requirements”. Rolling Festival unveiled its ‘carrot and stick’ While the EC’s study talks of Tapproach to Kosovo in three opening a dialogue on visa liberali- reports released on Wednesday, sation for Kosovo, the phrase used > page 9 which open up a possible path for when negotiations started with visa liberalisation but also deliver other western Balkan states, the severe criticism on the country’s report goes on to state that a com- progress. prehensive strategy will first be GUIDE According to the 2009 Progress drawn up. Report for Kosovo, Prishtina faces It remains unclear what this new The five “major challenges” in areas includ- ‘dialogue’ entails and how or when ing corruption, public administra- Kosovo will officially join the autumnal tion, economy and freedom of the process of visa liberalisation. media. The study reads: “Based on a wonder of Albania The EC’s Feasibility Study on thorough assessment the in Kosovo Next Month to Unveil Statue Kosovo has had the ‘feasibility’ Commission proposes to draft a > page 8 dropped from the title as five out of comprehensive strategy to guide The statue of Bill Clinton was unveiled in Prishtina on Tuesday, only the 27 EU member states do not Kosovo’s efforts to meet the EU’s to be wrapped up again after it was announced that the former US pres- recognise Prishtina’s declaration of requirements for visa liberalisa- ident was to visit Kosovo next month. FOOD & DRINK independence. tion. Turn to page 6 for the full story The study offers the prospect of “This strategy will set bench- A Lunch Pad for the Kosovo joining its neighbours in marks to measure Kosovo’s others have not. This means that ing and consolidating the rule of Sea of Tranquillity gaining visa liberalisition, which progress in the context of a visa the Commission is forced to respect law and needs to improve the func- allows for travel throughout the dialogue and will be presented to the status neutral principle.” tioning and independence of its > page 10 Schengen zone without visas. the [European] Council for informa- In a statement he added: “These judiciary. Macedonia, Montenegro and tion.” measures will show Kosovo that EU “It needs to establish a track Serbia are expected to become part During a press conference follow- approximation is not something record in the fight against corrup- of the White Schengen list early ing the report’s release, EU abstract, but that it is about real, tion, money laundering and organ- NEIGHBOURHOOD next year, while Albania and Bosnia Commissioner for Enlargement tangible benefits for all. ised crime, demonstrating concrete and Herzegovina are negotiating Olli Rehn was asked why he hadn’t “We now call on EU Member results. Thousands Mourn the administrative chicanes but proposed “something concrete for States to agree to our proposals and “Kosovo also needs to strengthen have not yet met the necessary cri- Kosovo”. He hinted that the path to ensure Kosovo keeps pace with the capacity, independence and pro- Killed Sarajevo teria to join. towards visa liberalisation and EU developments in the rest of the fessionalism of its public adminis- Kosovo had been excluded from membership was a difficult one Western Balkans.” tration and improve its business Football Fan the process, but the EC now “pro- given that there are five EU member The study and accompanying environment, including regulation, poses to start a process that should states which do not recognise > page 12 progress report deliver a critical supervision and corporate gover- lead to visa-free travel for Kosovo Kosovo’s independence. assessment of Kosovo progress. nance.” citizens and to begin preparations He said: “I must admit that we are The study reads: “Kosovo has to for a comprehensive trade agree- facing a situation in which 22 states make further progress in establish- FEATURE ment once Kosovo meets the have recognised Kosovo, while five continues on page 3 Kosovo’s City Business Disappearing Road to Prishtina Airport Opens Kosovo drops 2000 MW Crafts by the end of November Power Plant Plan > page 7 The road from Prishtina to the airport Plans for the Kosova e Re power station is expected to be open by the end of are undergoing major changes just November, eight months later than months after Kosovo’s government scheduled. announced its vision for the future of Work on the Fushe Kosove – Sllatine energy production. road started on August 20, 2008, and was The Ministry of Energy and Mines has planned to be finished... confirmed to Prishtina Insight that page 6 grand plans... page 5

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The EU’s New‘Carrot and Stick’Approach to Kosovo Editor’s word from page 1 In a lengthy press release issued by the EC, it found only three lines of positive news on Kosovo’s progress. The statement reads: “Kosovo has made some progress in meeting Bashkim the political criteria, in particular by strengthening the legal framework. The main institutions of governance are in place and fulfil their responsibilities in cooperation By Lawrence Marzouk with relevant international organisations. Progress in aligning Kosovo’s legislation and policies with European standards is mixed.” Sphend Ahmeti, director of the Kosovo here have been some positive sig- think-tank GAP, said there was very little nals for Kosovo coming from our progress to talk of in the Progress Report. TEuropean Union neighbours in He said: “The EC progress report realisti- recent weeks, and no, I’m not talking cally reflects the current situation in Kosovo. about the ‘Progress’ Report. It was very difficult to find areas where The official EU assessment of Kosovo has made progress in the last year, and Prishtina’s performance in fields ranging some people might think that this is depress- from economic policy to freedom of ing and that it destroys our hope of ever join- speech is pretty damning, and should be a ing the EU. wake-up call to Kosovo’s institutions to Photo byPhoto FoNet “The only success that was mentioned in Olli Rehn, EU Commissioner for Enlargement get their act together. the press conference was that Kosovo has I’ve have also not got too excited by the maintained its stability. Even that is not issues, such as the disappearance of evidence An important example was the limited EU’s confirmation of a ‘road map on a progress, just maintenance of the status quo. and witnesses’ statements, the displacement involvement of the Ministry in the transfor- road map’ for visa liberalisation for “However, it now all depends on how we of people, the refusal of some Kosovo Police mation of the state-owned energy sector, in Kosovo. Senior EU officials are well- take this report, and how we use it for the officers to cooperate and the intimidation of spite of its high and increasing needs for meaning in this demarche – they want to future. Because of the election campaign, the witnesses, judges and prosecutors. transfers and subsidies from the budget. demonstrate that Kosovo has a European political class is most probably going to spend future and that it is not being left by the a lot of time arguing whether the report is No transparence of political party Public procurement roadside while its neighbours motor on good or bad, instead of talking about the con- funding towards EU membership. The situation concerning procurement has tent of the report. But, let’s be honest – Kosovars will not worsened compared to the previous year, “I sincerely hope that the citizens will view The strength of the supervisory mecha- get visa-free travel any time soon. despite some improvements in the legal it in a different format. We finally need to nisms and the lack of transparency regard- No, the good news comes from the non- framework. understand that the situation in Kosovo is not ing the funding of political parties remain believers. The implementing legislation for the Law good in all areas that were identified in the issues of serious concern. Greece has a new government led by on Public Procurement was completed in report. George Papandreou, a man who genuine- January.However, the law on public procure- “This should be an eye-opener for all of us. Freedom of expression ly appreciates Greece’s regional perspec- ment is not aligned with European procure- More and more people and institutions, inter- tive and influence, and who has already ment standards. nally in Kosovo and internationally,are point- As regards to freedom of expression, the The implementation of the law in practice displayed his devotion to the western ing at the same problems. independence and impartiality of the pub- gives rise to serious concerns. Balkans. “Kosovo has problems with organised licly-owned Radio and Television of Kosovo The main focus of the Public Procurement And hardliner Slovakia appears to be crime, corruption, freedom of speech, politi- (RTK) are not fully ensured. Regulatory Commission is monitoring, softening its stance on Kosovo’s independ- cal interference, low economic development, Three years after its entry into force, the ence. Bratislava’s foreign minister low institutional capacity etcetera.” supervision and legal interpretation. law establishing RTK is still not being ade- Miroslav Lajcak made conciliatory noises Kosovo Premier Hashim Thaci delivered an However, monitoring is done mainly on cases quately implemented. about Kosovo during his recent trip to upbeat message following the report’s release. where contracts have already been signed A member of the government takes part in Belgrade. While hardly an abrupt U-turn He said: “From today there is a new area for and it does not encompass their implementa- the Assembly committee responsible for on Slovakia’s opposition to independence, relations between the EU and the Republic of tion phase. selecting RTK’s board, which is yet to be his words certainly indicate a more prag- Kosovo. From now, Kosovo has a very clear As of May 2009, the Procurement Review appointed. matic approach to the issue. perspective towards the EU.” Body reviewed 290 complaints. However, These two events are significant He added that the Kosovo government will there is no systematic publication of its deci- Kosovo delegates barred from because Kosovo’s future is in the work to promote good governance, trans- sions and these often lack legal arguments. European Union, and this future can parency, and the rule of law, with the latter international meetings never be fully realised without all mem- incorporating an uncompromising fight Prishtina Airport against organised crime and corruption. Kosovan delegates have not been able to bers recognising independence. participate in all events hosted by countries Licences to fly to and from are Until all 27 countries are facing the same Key comments from the that do not recognise Kosovo, due to difficul- granted in a nontransparent way and with direction, the EU will be forced into a scrap- ties in relation to the use of Kosovo pass- unjustifiable delays. In the area of air traffic py comprises with no strategic vision. Progress Report: ports. Such occurrences have become management, Kosovo needs to ensure that it These problems were all too obvious in increasingly frequent and hinder the devel- licences air traffic controllers according to the this week’s European Commission Study Intimidation and disappearance of opment of effective regional cooperation. Community Single Sky rules and procedures. on Kosovo. At a basic, administrative evidence relating to the March level, Brussels’ bureaucrats were forced Problems with tax collection Organised crime to come up with a diplomatic title, remov- 2004 riots ing the ‘feasibility’ from ‘feasibility study’ With regards to fiscal planning, the There has been limited progress in tack- because it is not ‘feasible’ for Kosovo to There has been no progress in dealing with Ministry of Economy and Finance (MEF) ling organised crime, which remains an join the EU when five member states don’t cases related to the March 2004 events. The continued to receive incomplete information issue of serious concern, particularly in the think it exists. handling of criminal cases in this context from line ministries on important strategic north of Kosovo and on the border/boundary But at a much deeper level, the conflict continues to be complicated by a number of developments with fiscal implications. line between Kosovo and Serbia. is obvious with the offer of ‘comprehen- sive strategy’ on visa liberalisation, rather than a proper roadmap to joining News in brief the white Schengen list. It’s no bad thing that the EC is provid- Kosovo-Macedonia Border Judge Suspended after KLA Trial Early Electioneering to be ing Kosovo with incentives and trying to Agreed Comments Investigated demonstrate its commitment to the coun- try. osovo and Macedonia have osovo’s judicial watchdog has suspended a osovo’s Election Complaints and And despite the differences of opinion agreed on the demarcation of judge after he revealed details of private Appeals Commission, ECAC, is investi- within the Union, the EU has had success- Ktheir mutual border and are Kdeliberations in the trial of three former gating the premature electioneering of K es in Kosovo. expected to sign an agreement in the members of the Kosovo Liberation Army, KLA. some political parties. But until the EU can work as one on coming days. The Kosovo Judicial Council’s disciplinary The head of ECAC, Tahir Rrecaj, said due to pulling Kosovo up and towards member- This agreement paves the way for committee has suspended Rrahman Retkoceri technical problems, his office could not start ship, it will be forced into these half-meas- diplomatic ties, the establishment of without pay after reviewing his public state- this work earlier. ures. which was conditioned by the ments regarding the controversial Llapi Group Opposition parties have filed complaints to So Greece, Cyprus, Slovakia, Spain and Macedonian government on the resolu- trail. the ECAC, accusing the governing parties, the Romania, the word in Albanian for unity tion of the border issue, after it recog- Judge Retkoceri was part of a three-man panel, Kosovo Democratic Party, PDK, and Kosovo and union is ‘Bashkim’, something you nised Kosovo independence. including two EU rule of law mission, EULEX, Democratic League, LDK, of violating election might like to reflect on when considering The agreement will be signed by representatives, which handing down jail terms law by starting their election campaign prior to your own membership of the European Kosovo Prime Minister Hashim Thaci to Latif Gashi, Nazif Mehmeti and Rrustem the official start date set by President Fatmir Union. and his Macedonian counterpart Mustafa for war crimes committed during the Sejdiu, October 15. Nikola Gruevski. conflict in Kosovo. 4 • October 16 - 29, 2009 EU special EU Special: How the other Inside Out Western Balkan Countries Fared From CEC with love

By Gjeraqina Tuhina By Kreshnik Hoxha

Albania: Six-Month Wait for t is not every day that the Answer Royal Mail, the national Ipostal service in the UK, Albania has made progress on delivers a letter from Kosovo all key political reforms, the docu- the way to my doorstep. I was not ment says. The Commission con- entirely sure who could have sur- siders that implementation of the prised me in such a nice way, but SAA is “progressing smoothly on it suddenly occurred to me that the whole”. Regarding the latest the Central Election Commission, general election, Brussels says it CEC, had decided to salute me met most international standards, with their kind request to update although “further efforts are need- my details so that I can tick the ed to address the shortcomings ballot paper to elect the Mayor indentified”. who will ‘change’ Prishtina. Albania has applied for EU mem- Amazed and puzzled in equal bership but its application has wait- measure, I perused the letter they ed longest for a response from had sent and started to contem- Brussels. More than six months plate whether I should fill it in or since submission, the EU council has not. I am fully aware of my obli- not yet authorised the Commission gation as a citizen of Kosovo to

to start preparing an opinion, or byPhoto FoNet participate in these elections and “avis” on Albania’s readiness to join The European Commission has delivered its verdict on the progress of western Balkan states this week voice my opinion. But will my the EU. The Commission reiterates vote make a difference? Will it that it is ready to start preparations “The political climate has deterio- Macedonia: Don’t Provoke the interim agreement, which is make me feel a valued citizen of for the opinion, “once invited by the rated and challenges to the proper according to Brussels, is “pro- Neighbours Prishtina when I enter the ‘town Council. functioning of institutions as well gressing smoothly on the whole”. hall’ to enquire about a docu- “Albania needs to make as inflammatory rhetoric have The document recalls that Macedonia has made substantial ment, or will I continue to feel progress, in particular regarding continued,” it adds. The require- Montenegro has applied for EU progress in fulfilling the key prior- intimidated by the neglectful and the rule of law and notably the ments for a smooth transition from candidate status and that the ities of the accession partnership. often arrogant officials? Will I fight against corruption, as well as the office of the High Council of Ministers gave a man- The Commission considers have a say on the cultural her- the proper functioning of state Representative, OHR, towards a date to the Commission to work on Macedonia has met the commit- itage of this city, or will I contin- institutions, especially the inde- EU reinforced presence “have not the so-called “avis, or opinion, on ments under the SAA. The paper ue to witness it disappear rapid- pendence of the judiciary”, the been fully met”. whether the country was ready to notes that parliament’s function- ly? All these questions bombard- document says. The Commission says Bosnia become an EU member. “Work on urgently needs to speed up key ing has improved, in particular preparation of an avis is ongoing”, ed me while I struggled to decide Bosnia: A Deteriorating reforms. Brussels notes that an through the introduction of new the document says. whether this letter should be application for EU membership procedural rules and a new Law on filled in and returned to Kosovo’s Environment “could only be considered by the Parliament. Serbia: Ambitious efforts CEC or populate the recycling bin EU once the OHR has been closed”. The paper notes the progress in my back garden. Bosnia has showed “very limit- The Commission urges Bosnia made in the fight against corrup- Serbia has demonstrated its Recalling that these are the ed” progress in addressing key “to proceed with the necessary tion, “through prosecution of high- commitment to bringing the coun- first elections after independ- reforms, the Commission says. constitutional amendments with- level cases” and the strengthening try closer to the EU by implement- ence, I realised the turnout will out further delay”. of the legal framework. The adopted ing the provisions of the Interim be a yardstick of our democratic Law on the Civil Service is praised Agreement with the EU and by maturity as a society and will Croatia: Ready by Next as “an additional step towards a undertaking key political reforms demonstrate whether our voting Year? merit-based career system”. in line with European standards, attitude has changed from prais- www.prishtinainsight.com The report mentions the name the document says. The ing political leaders to caring dispute with Greece, and the fact about our own interest and stan- Croatia is the most advanced Commission hails Belgrade for that this issue is under auspices of dard of living. Publisher: country from the Western Balkan making efforts to implement an UN. The Commission underlines I would like to think that people BIRN group and this year Brussels will “ambitious programme for that maintaining good neigh- have started to realise that their confirm it has made progress in European Integration”. Serbia is Balkan Investigative Reporting Network bourly relations, including a nego- own interests should outweigh key political reforms. The considered to have the administra- tiated and mutually accepted solu- the emotional attachment Mensa e Studenteve, first floor Commission notes that last year it tive capacity to make substantial tion to the name issue, is essential. towards political figures, because set up an “indicative road map” for progress towards the EU. “This 10000, Prishtina “Actions and statements that nega- this attachment has hardly been Croatia to reach the final stage of needs to be used to press ahead Kosovo tively affect good neighbourly rela- reciprocated in the past ten years accession negotiations, foreseen with the reform agenda, leading to Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 tions should be avoided”, the with better living standards that for late 2009. However, the border tangible results in priority areas”, Commission warns. satisfy the need for water, a Fax: +381 (0) 38 22 44 98 dispute between Croatia and the paper says, noting that greener environment, an [email protected] Slovenia “held back the accession strengthening of the rule of law Montenegro: More work on improved transport system and negotiations so that a substantial and accelerating economic lots more. Editor-in-Chief: number of chapters could not be rule of law needed reforms are priorities. And what if you are certain Lawrence Marzouk opened or closed until October The Commission considers Serbia that no candidate appeals to you? 2009”. The paper adds: “The border Montenegro has continued polit- has improved cooperation with the [email protected] What if you think your vote won’t dispute remains a bilateral issue ical reforms. However, the paper ICTY but notes that two main fugi- make a difference? The easiest, which should not affect the acces- warns that Montenegro’s adminis- tives, Ratko Mladic and Goran most hassle-free choice would be Editorial Team: sion negotiations”. The paper trative capacity “remains very Hadzic, remain at large. “In the light opting out. But will it be the wis- Ana Petruseva, Arif Muharremi, notes that an agreement to solve weak”, and that this is the conclu- of sustained cooperation with the est one? We need to demonstrate Gordana Igric, Jeta Xharra, Marcus border issue was reached in sion of every progress report each ICTY and the renewed commitment of Serbia to the European that we fully grasp the impor- Tanner, Petrit Collaku and Shega A’Mula September. year. “Administrative and enforce- In the paper, the Commission ment capacity require further Integration process, the Commission tance of these elections and this says Croatia needs to step up strengthening,” the document says. considers that the interim agree- is why I believe that even the Marketing, Sales & Distribution: reform of the judiciary and of fun- The report notes that the parlia- ment should now be implemented by diehard sceptics should take part [email protected] damental rights, in particular as mentary elections held in March the EU,” the paper says. and, if they are not going to vote, regards the efficiency of the judici- met almost all international stan- The Commission urges Serbia to scribble something rude on the Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” ary, the fight against corruption dards but adds that “remaining show a more constructive attitude ballot paper. In this way, the and organized crime, minority shortcomings need to be towards Kosovo’s participation in turnout will show that citizens Printing: Interpress R. Company rights and war-crimes trials addressed”. The Commission notes regional trade and cooperation. It execute their democratic right to The Commission confirms that “some progress” on judicial also calls for greater cooperation vote regardless of the quality of Copyright © BIRN it is preparing a financial package reform. The Commission is satis- with the EU’s rule of law mission candidates. for Croatian accession. fied with the implementation of in Kosovo. business • October 16 - 29, 2009 5 Albania-Kosovo Rail Link Investigated linking the port of Durres, on the Adriatic coast, with Kosovo. The highway, which is Albania’s By Besar Likmeta and largest public works project in two Lawrence Marzouk decades, has been marred by cor- ruption allegations and cost over- runs. resh from a visit to Prishtina, Tirana has also offered Pristina Prime Minister Sali Berisha the use of Shengjin port in north- Fhas ordered his Ministry of ern Albania, through a concession- Transport to conduct a feasibility ary agreement, which would give study into a rail link between Kosovo an outlet to the sea. Kosovo and Albania. Albania currently has only one “A railway link would strengthen international rail link, with economic ties between our two Montenegro. The state-owned com- countries,” Berisha said during a pany which operates the railways is Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit View of Kosovo’s current power stations in Obiliq, new Prishtina cabinet meeting. heavily subsidised. “The Kosovo railway is of wide Before the fall of Albania’s com- interest for Albanian ports, because munist regime, under which pri- it connects with Serbia and central vate vehicle ownership was illegal, Kosovo drops 2000 MW Europe,” he added. railways were often the only mode A new line between Prizren and of transport for Albanians. Rreshen in Albania was estimated Since the communist system col- by Kosovo’s authorities to cost more lapsed in 1991, passenger and cargo than 30 milion euro in 2005. numbers have dwindled and the Power Plant Plan Albania is in the process of com- infrastructure has fallen into disre- Kosovo’s government is massively downsizing its plans to build a 2,000 megawatt plant pow- pleting a one billion euro highway pair. ered by lignite because of the global economic crisis and fears of its environmental impact. sortium Enel/Sencap, and Czech- parliamentary commission for American consortium CEZ/AES. energy, who is also a member of But the scheme has been rocked parliament for the opposition party By Lavdim Hamidi by withdrawals and calls for the Alliance for a New Kosovo, AKR, in Prishtina proposal to be redrawn since the said if Kosovo wishes to become announcement. Last month, the part of the EU in the future, it needs German consortiums RWE-AG and to meet the relevant standards on lans for the Kosova e Re EnBW/WGI withdrew from the ten- environmental protection. power station are undergoing der race, saying the decision was She said: “Smaller facilities can Pmajor changes just months due to the delays with the project. be built much more quickly, com- after Kosovo’s government Even consortium CEZ/AES, pared to the larger ones that were byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Prishtina’s railway station announced its vision for the future which has been labelled the presented by the government a of energy production. favourite, briefed the press that it month ago, and at the same time, The Ministry of Energy and too could pull out because it this will also protect the environ- Mines has confirmed to Prishtina believes the new proposal to be less ment.” Kosovo Railways Insight that grand plans for a 2,000 attractive. Minister of Energy and She added that the shorter con- Kosovo railways currently megawatt, MW, facility are being Mines Justina Shiroka-Pula said struction period will mean Kosovo scaled down to a 500 MW plant, with that the government had not will be able to solve its many energy comprise: the option of doubling the capacity received an official request for problems earlier. • A 147km north–south line from in the future. This effectively ends changes to the tender conditions. Environmental issues expert Leshak station, at the border with Kosovo’s hopes in the medium term But Pula admitted Kosovo’s gov- Daut Maloku, who is also head of Serbia, to Hani i Elezit station, of using its large reserve of lignite ernment is now reviewing the the Green Party of Kosovo, said near the border with Macedonia. – believed to be the fifth largest in Kosova e Re construction project that Kosovo should delay the expan- • A 45km east line from the world – to become a major which, according to her, will begin sion of coal-fuelled energy produc- Podujeveastation, on the border regional energy exporter. with a capacity of 500 MW, with the tion until after 2020, when, accord- with Serbia, to Fushe Kosove sta- cash into its ailing railway net- The government hopes that the possibility of doubling the output ing to him, the development of new tion. work through privatisation. move to a smaller scheme will help in the future. technologies will allow for “more the country meet international • An 81km west line from Fushe According to a presentation to She explained that information environmentally friendly” use of Kosove station, the centrepiece of standards for environmental pro- Turkish Contractors Association received from the Copenhagen lignite. the network, to Peje station. tection and assist bidders strug- in Ankara this summer, a tender Climate Change Conference, to be He added that Kosovo should in • A 58km west–south line from gling to raise funds amid the eco- held in December, had forced the the meantime be considering alter- Klina station to Prizren station. will be published in February next nomic downturn. government to reconsider its plans native energy production from Kosovo’s ministry of transport year and the contract awarded in In July of this year, Prime for the 2,000 MW power plant solar, wind and hydro energy. hopes to inject some much needed August. Minister Hashim Thaci announced because of potential CO2 emissions. the decision to build a 2,000 MW “All these parameters need to be plant in two, 1,000 MW phases. reviewed and the construction of The decision was the outcome of coal energy production capacities a struggle between the USA and the needs to be done in phases, starting World Bank, and different factions with 500 megawatts,” said Pula. of the government, over what She added that investors had also should be offered in the tender. withdrawn from the original pro- The plant is to be built on the out- posal because banks were unwilling Marketing skirts of Prishtina, near the cur- to provide loans for such a large rent Kosova A and B facilities in project. Obiliq. Members from the Alliance for According to the plan, the gov- the Future of Kosovo, AAK, have ernment expects to close Kosova A criticised the government for delay- in 2014 or 2015, and Kosova B will be ing the plans for Kosova C power renovated as part of a separate pub- plant, also to produce 2,000 MW, lic-private deal. which the AAK had drawn up when www.omega-ks.com When Thaci made his announce- in power. The hold-up, they claim, ment in July, four international has meant potential bidders were consortiums had expressed an being asked to raise huge sums of interest in the project, which was money during a financial crisis. set to inject 3.5 billion euro into The same warning came from Kosovo and tackle the country’s Shpend Ahmeti, an economist with chronic energy shortages. Kosovo’s Institute for Advanced The bidders were two German Studies, GAP. consortiums, RWE/AG and But Myzeje Selmani, head of the EnBW/WGI, a Greek-Italian con- 6 • October 16 - 29, 2009 city William Wechsler Professor at the American University in Kosovo Prishtina through the Eyes of: the Eyes through Prishtina Photo byPhoto MinistryTransport of One of the new bridges leading to Prishtina Airport Road to Prishtina Airport Opens by the end of November William Wechsler What surprised you the most about he road from Prishtina seen time and dynamics, Pozhari claimed that the Prishtina? to the airport is expect- despite delays and hurdles construction of the 8.2 kilome- The people – I’ve travelled all over the world Ted to be open by the end caused last year because of the tres Fushe Kosove- Sllatine and was amazed how warm and friendly By Petrit Collaku of November, eight months extended winter season,” road is one of the most impor- everyone here was. Of course the students at later than scheduled. Xhevdet Pozhari, MTT tant projects for MTT. AUK are bright and engaging. But everyone Work on the Fushe Kosove – spokesperson told Prishtina He said that the size of the from taxi drivers to street vendors go out of Sllatine road started on Insight. bridges are a first in Kosovo. their way to make you feel at home. In this August 20, 2008, and was Pozhari added that the road “The bridges symbolise the sense, Prishtina is the anti-Paris. planned to be finished in 180 will be finished very soon. new state,” said Pozhari. days. Officials in the “The end of November He stressed that this road Whats you’re favourite hangout? “The bridges symbolise Ministry of Transport have (2009) will mark the comple- and others are of significant Dit’ e Nat’. Can’t imagine a more comfort- the new state,” blamed the bad weather con- tion of the construction work importance as Kosovo is going able place to do some reading, grab a cup of ditions for not finishing the on the regional road Fushe to be a crossroad for the region. coffee and get some work done. There are too road on time. Kosove – Sllatine, as Minister During 2008, the MTT fin- many excellent restaurants to mention. Te Na said Pozhari. “I can tell you that the works Fatmir Limaj promised,” said ished 161 projects, or 600 kilo- is a superlative late night weekend place to are continuing within the fore- Xhevdet Pozhari. meters of roads. meet up with friends.

Do you do anything cultural? Absolutely. I really enjoyed the Film Bill Clinton in Kosovo Next Festival. There’s lots of surprising artwork in niches across the city. Whether or not some- one’s particularly religious, the mosques pro- vide insightful historical glimpses into local Month to Unveil Statue culture. I also enjoy the occasional trip out- side of town. My most recent excursion Artists and residents complain that the statue doesn’t look like the former president involved the 60th Anniversary Performance of he statue of Bill Clinton since August 10, 2009. He said: the Macedonian National Ballet, which was was unveiled in Prishtina “I have been working on this excellent. Ton Tuesday, only to be statue for many years due to wrapped up again after it was some problems. Usually, for What is the most annoying thing about announced that the former US such a statue it takes seven to Prishtina? president was to visit Kosovo eight months to complete.” Probably the traffic... especially if you’re on next month. He said he felt privileged and your way to meet someone across town. The office of Kosovo’s Prime happy that his work had finally Minister, Hashim Thaci, been seen by the public, and If you were mayor of Prishtina for the revealed on Tuesday that was particularly thrilled that it day what would you change? President Clinton was planning would be visited by the real I’d maybe focus on building restoration... to visit Kosovo early next man. particularly in the older neighborhoods. month, just hours before the But Mustafa complained that officially ceremony was he was unhappy with the plinth How many machiatos do you drink a planned at the statue’s new and location for his work. He day? home on Bill Clinton said: “The statue is three It depends on how much aggravation my

Boulevard meters tall, but looks small byPhoto Foundation Clinton students give me any given day. Just kidding, The statue was sculpted by because it is surrounded by Former US President Bill Clinton of course. Probably three to four. Izeir Mustafa from Podujevo. high buildings. It was supposed ect has not been included - I had about Bill Clinton’s statue in Mustafa told Prishtina Insight to go to a different location. a different vision for the base.” Prishtina.” What’s the tastiest Kosovar food? that the statue had been ready “All of my work for this proj- Prishtina artists and some Artist Luan Mulliqi, told the Toughest question of all. So much is so residents have also expressed Express newspaper: “Instead of good. My first few weeks here I met a foreign- History of the statue dissatisfaction with the statue, honouring a famous personali- er who warned me about the kilo factor – the claiming it has anatomic ty such as Clinton, we have longer you’ve been here, the more kilos you’ll fter failed attempts to receive permission to place the add. So I’ll pass on this one and just offer my statue in the city, sculpture Izeir Mustafa contacted defects. offended him. Student Dren Pozhegu told “The statue has many defects generic advice for new arrivals to walk on the AFriends of USA for assistance. The offer was eagerly other side of the street from bakeries whenev- Prishtina Insight: “Big head, – there is no emotion, it’s not taken up as a key project by the association. er possible. In 2007, Friends of America obtained permission from big hands, little body, tight monumental and it looks more clothes. It’s like a first grade like amateur modelling.” Prishtina Municipality to obtain the land directly under the What landmark do you use to tell taxi Large Bill Clinton poster hanging from the side of an apartment boy who you would pull the Bill Clinton is viewed as a cheeks of and tell him what a hero by , fol- drivers where you live? building on Bill Clinton Boulevard. Germia, which, by the way, is an absolutely When the scheme looked like it was running out of money,the good boy he is. lowing his support to NATO’s ”Unfortunately we are speaking intervention in 1999. fantastic place to spend a leisurely Saturday or government intervened with 30,000 euro late last year. Sunday afternoon. feature • October 16 - 29, 2009 7 Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina Collaku for Petrit Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina Collaku for Petrit A tailor at work on Adrian Krasniqi Street, Prishtina The sustainability of Kosovo’s tailoring industry is hanging by a threat Kosovo’s Disappearing Crafts Faced with a flood of cheap imports and radical changes to people's lifestyles, traditional crafts and trades are slowly dying out In the town of Prizren, only four Kosovo include those of farriers, pened because of new trends in blacksmiths remain in business hatters, tinsmiths, weapon makers Kosovo," said Pakashtica, blaming today. Back in the 1990s, if you had and wagon makers. cheap imports and modern Guide to the By Petrit Collaku walked the cobbled streets of this The Prishtina Craft Society was lifestyles for the change. picturesque town, you might have created in 1921 to protect and He is well aware that new tech- few remaining come across a dozen men smiting encourage traditional trades and nology is developing fast and that black metal in their forges. crafts. "We used to be well respected businesses need to mechanise. "All or generations, the black- Other old-fashioned trades are but today we're all forgotten," Enver we can do is to keep those crafts traditional crafts smith's trade has been in the going the same way. Along Adrian Pakashtica, the president of the alive because they are witness to a f you’re thinking about get- Ffamily of Durak Halabak. Krasniqi Street in Prishtina, a society, said. tradition in Kosovo," he said. Durak was just 13 when he first handful of small shops ply tradi- "Today, we don't even collect Today, most craftsman want their ting a suit or dress made to grabbed a hammer. He takes pride tional crafts. There are eight tai- funds from members of the society," children to get well educated rather Imeasure, tailors can be found in the fact that he has never lors, one cobbler, four barbers and he said. They had stopped seeking than to take them on as apprentices. in all towns and cities and offer received a complaint in 40 years in four qebaptores. contributions from the craftsmen Enver's children have helped him in good value for money. Gjilan and the trade. One of the tailors is Xhevdet because of their difficult financial his jewellery shop, but they are well Gjakova are known to have a "I used to work night and day. I Arifi, 49, known as Xhevush. He situation. educated too, and not interested in long tradition in the field. made all sorts of things, particular- learned tailoring from his oldest In the 1990s, during the Kosovo continuing his line of work. "I used ly for farmers," Durak said, recall- brother when he was 14 years old. "I Albanians' darkest hour, craftsmen to have a lot of work before but now Carpenters can still be found ing the days when his workshop in used to be a producer, making fancy contributed a great deal to the econ- it's hard to live from this job," he across the country, although in Prizren buzzed with customers. clothes, but today I consider myself omy,employing people who had lost said. decreasing numbers. You can Today, Durak, 51, says it is a chal- more as a patcher," Xhevush said. their jobs because of the growing Last year, the crafts society and have pieces created to your own lenge even to keep alive the tradi- "Today people buy a pair of conflict with Belgrade. the Ministry of Education signed an tional skills he inherited from his trousers for two or three euro. I Today the craft soci- agreement to test students who design or pick up some tradition- father, let alone make a decent liv- charge two euro to fix trousers, so ety has 35 crafts on had have received vocational al furniture, such as low Sofra ing from them. no one comes in." its books, about training. Those who pass the tables. Peja’s bazaar is a good Reluctantly, he accepts that his Xhevush believes cheap imports nine of which are test will get a certificate and, place to start looking. will be the last generation of black- from China have destroyed his busi- on the brink of perhaps more importantly,get smiths in the family."My three sons ness. "Today, our job is worthless," extinction: black- a taste of how some crafts are Filigree, or wire work, is pro- are not interested in this work; Xhevush said, recalling the days smiths, tinsmiths, adapting to a rapidly changing duced to the highest quality in they're not happy with the income," when people booked him to take quilt-makers, society. Whether this will be Kosovo. Head to Prizren’s Adem he said. "After I retire, I will trans- measures for suits. "There were watchmakers, bag- enough to revitalise Jashari Road to hunt down a form my shop into a museum." times when people had to wait for makers, radio Kosovo's dying crafts beautiful bargain. Durak said farmers used to be his months," he said. mechanics, hat- remains to be seen. primary customers, wanting Historically, crafts organised ters, horse- repairs to equipment - mainly under a system of guilds were the shoe-mak- ploughs. But farmers work nowa- main economic drivers of Kosovo's ers and days with hi-tech tools. "Farmers towns and cities. Skilled profession- carpen- today don't work with primitive als produced finished goods from ters. tools any more. It's cheaper for cotton, wool, silk, wood, hides and "This them to buy new tools than metals. has to repair them," Durak Other crafts that have vir- hap- said. tually disappeared from

"Today, our job is worthless," said a tailor, recalling the days when people booked him to take measures for suits. "There were times when people had to wait for months." Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina Collaku for Petrit • October 16 - 29, 2009 8 Guide The five autumnal wonders of Albania Saranda, the monastery of Mesopotam, Durres, Gjirokaster and Byllis all offer the traveller a fascinating glimpse into Albania’s ancient world ith all of Albania being so ied history – from the time of classi- much off the beaten track, cal antiquity when these lands were Wseeing the country’s occupied by the Illyrians, to the unknown side is not so much an eras of the Roman, Byzantine and exotic experience as the only expe- Ottoman Empires and then the rience available to its visitors. oppression of the communist

Pristine beaches, ancient ruins and regime. Peeling back these layers byPhoto albaniantourism.com cities carved in stone, desolate one by one is among the most stim- View over Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage Site mountain villages, rough, fragrant ulating and satisfying experiences Germany, the city became Albania’s crete by the Byzantine castle, a well- cuisine, the psychedelic sounds and that a visitor to Albania could have. The monastery of first national capital in 1913. preserved Ottoman town, which is sights of Tirana, Saranda and Here are five destinations perfect Mesopotam One of Durres’ main attractions now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Durres – everything that this for exploration in October: is that it boasts the Balkans’ biggest a museum of armaments and an Balkan country had to offer is an Also located near Saranda, this amphitheatre. There, another mys- ethnographic museum. authentic experience, hardly The modern city of Saranda monastery, restored by UNESCO, tery awaits amateur archaeologists touched by globalisation. also offers a glimpse into the long and the ancient site of to untangle it: La bella di Durazzo - Byllis Long decades of isolation under and varied history of these lands. a mosaic of a long-faced, solemn Enver Hoxha’s communist regime Butrint The Saint Nicholas Church, which woman with hair piled on her head This ancient city, now aban- were only prolonged by the econom- can be seen today, was most likely and her face turned slightly away. doned, is located in the middle of ic recession after its fall and Although a modern city, Saranda built in the thirteenth century and Western Europe’s lack of interest - one of the most important tourist remodelled in the eighteenth and Archaeologists have been unable to the Mallakastra mountain range in towards this small and so full of destinations of the Albanian nineteenth centuries, while its identify who she was since she was south-western Albania. character nation. Riviera, contains remnants of iconostases from reworked Roman unearthed. Founded by the Illyrians, then con- And as is often the case, while dis- many different historical periods columns bear traces of almost every quered and eventually abandoned by advantageous to some, this period that characterise Albania. era of the Balkans’ history. Gjirokaster the Romans in 586 AD, Byllis of isolation was a boon for others. A walk through the town, with its remains an underdeveloped and lit- Although many Albanians would cake-like layers, with thin strips of Durres Set hanging off a cliff on the tle-known archaeological site, which rather have their country devel- road cutting through it, reveals why sides of the Drino Valley in south- impresses not only with its archaeo- oped, Europeanised and well-con- Saranda and its environs were cho- “Epidamnus - Dyrrachion - ern Albania, one of the city’s most logical remains, but also with the nected to the world, its modern his- sen as sites for many Byzantine Durrazo - Durres,” as one famous sons, Ismail Kadare, wrote landscape that surrounds it. tory of seclusion has turned it into monasteries, as, in Morelle Smith’s BalkanTravellers.com reader about Gjirokaster in his well- The former testify, again, of a the most mystical and challenging words, “It feels truly blessed and wrote, “Is indeed a 2,500-year-old known novel Chronicle in Stone. varied and multi-layered past, with destination in contemporary stirs the heart with wonder”. treasure trove of Balkan history”. The other infamous man who was a third-century BC Illyrian theatre Europe. A visit to the nearby ancient city Located on the central Albanian born in the city was Albania’s com- and many early Christian churches’ Many of the places that are worth of Butrint, a UNESCO World coast, the city of Durres is the coun- munist dictator Enver Hoxha. remains set on the backdrop of visiting in Albania have the addi- Heritage site, is another opportuni- try’s most ancient one. Fought over Layers of Albania’s and the stunning natural landscapes. tional benefit of containing, in a ty to delve into the past, as the site by the Romans, Bulgarians, region’s Byzantine, Ottoman and relatively small space, layers upon boasts remains of Illyrian, Greek, Venetians, Serbs and Ottomans, and communist history lie atop each This is article was published layers of the country’s long and var- Roman and Byzantine civilisations. in the twentieth century,by Italy and other in Gjirokaster too, made con- courtesy of BalkanTravellers.com Something for the Weekend... Peja

trading area for Serbs and Lala is located just past the new Albanians alike. fountain leading to the square and Although the town is home to offers Balkan staples. A trip to the By Shega A’Mula Monastery of the Patriarchate of Rugova area is not only worth it for Pec, the spiritual seat and mau- its natural beauty but also for its he drive to the western town soleum of Serbian archbishops and dining options. Well-established of Peja may have recently patriarchs, very few Serbs remain. family restaurants dish up fresh Tbeen elongated and aggravat- Amid the grumbling of new con- ingredients and a serving of fresh ed by the ongoing construction of struction, such as the Peja Square, mountain air. the airport road, but once the Saturday in the city means heading Sunday can be reserved for enduring panorama of the Rugova out to the markets or old bazaar strolling through the many neigh- Mountains comes into view, you area to bargain with street vendors, bourhoods of the city, without the soon forget your travel woes. exploring the gold shops and dig- noise of much traffic. There are a As we entered the city, passing ging through the masses of foreign series of old mosques and the the Peja Beer distillery and large exports which sell at lower prices Albanian Catholic Church located industrial businesses, the restored than in the capital city. Some tradi- near the centre, along with the winding streets, neighbourly busi- tional goods such as leatherware Patriarchate of Pec, which is about nesses and family homes calm the can also be found. a five-minute drive away to keep senses so used to Prishtina traffic. The Green Market is located just you busy. Although heavily destroyed dur- out of the centre along the Bistrica Taxi fares are very cheap in Peja. ing the conflict of 1998-99, as most of River, and operates every Saturday. For less than ten euro, you can trav- the Dukagjin area was, restoration Vendors from all around Dukagjini el throughout the whole city for up efforts have brought back some of sell their fresh goods here. to 35 minutes. And hospitality is Peja’s historical prestige – it was a More traditional eateries are guaranteed, as locals love showing

harder to find now that the fast-food off their historical sites and promi- byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit very important site for medieval Peja city centre Serbs and a thriving merchant and craze has hit the city, but Qebatore nent city features. By Arif Muharremi • October 16 - 29, 2009 9 in Prishtina Art & Culture Photo courtesyPhoto Film Festival Rolling of A shot from Gypsy Caravan: When the Road Bends ‘Laqhe aven’ to the Rolling Festival Prishtina’s inaugural Roma film festival looks to paint a fuller picture of this much misunderstood community heir trumpet lines may be ect manager for the festival. She ent picture, one that isn’t often seen,” becoming known worldwide, explained that the team was striving Cork explained. The Rolling Film Tas they are remixed by master- to represent different perspectives on Festival aims to counter these preju- ful DJs, but their way of life is most- the poorest community in Kosovo. dices by increasing awareness. ly still portrayed in stereotypes – sil- Roma in Kosovo, as in most of The organisers say it is very diffi- houettes seen against the silver Europe, remain one of the most mar- cult to avoid all stereotyping of screen. We know so little, and yet ginalised and vulnerable ethnic Roma, but films which dabble in there is so much to tell, about the groups. Many Roma say that life in these damaging platitudes will be Roma population. Kosovo was good in past decades, but taken to task in the debates after the The problems of the Roma commu- the 1990s and the Kosovo conflict screening. nity in Kosovo may have featured in changed that. According to her, Roma filmmak- some documentaries, but their plight There is a long history of discrimi- ers have a different perspective on is rarely a topic of a meaningful nation and violent repression against their community than the many non- debate among Kosovo’s leaders. Roma, and prejudice is still wide- Roma filmmakers who tried to por- Today, many still struggle in camps, spread. Paradoxically, little is known tray their lives. “When Roma feature scraping together a living from sell- about this group, aside from the well in the media, it is often non-Roma ing scrap metal. known and well versed clichés. creating these pictures, and a lot of This year, for the first time, “In mainstream media, Roma are the time there is stereotyping and Kosovo’s capital will be saying often either portrayed in a romantic, misrepresentation,” she said. ‘Laqhe aven’, or welcome in Romany, unrealistic way, or as victims of cir- Rolling Festival is not competitive, to a three-day film festival on the cumstance. We wanted to show and selected documentaries and fea- Roma community – the Rolling Film another perspective, a more realistic, ture films will be followed by discus- Festival, which starts on Monday, and positive view,” said Cork, adding sions between international and October 19, at the ABC Cinema. that organisers are aware of the his- Kosovar filmmakers, civil society Organised by Balkan Sunflowers torical tendency towards the high- representatives, academics, artists and Romawood Productions, the fes- lighting the ‘exoticism’ of Roma and of course the audience. tival features more than twenty films groups. Think, Carmen or “Through these discussions, we made by and about Roma worldwide. Esmeralda. aim to improve communication and It is the first of its kind in Kosovo She says the selection process will understanding about the Roma com- to focus on the life, culture and histo- ensure that the Rolling Film Festival munity,” said Cork adding that ry of Roma, as well as the rights and does not contribute to a culture of throughout the festival, entrance will integration of this community. stereotyping and misrepresentation be free. “Hey,come around, ‘cause it’s “The reason I wanted to do this, of Roma. rolling...” together with Sami and Valon, was “It is also important for us to The first annual Rolling Film that we wanted to present a different include films made by Roma them- Festival will take place in the ABC view of Roma than is often shown in selves, because people from within Cinema of Prishtina, from October the media,” said Lara Cork, the proj- Roma communities can offer a differ- 19 to 21 2009. For more information on the films being screened visit rollingfilm.org. • October 16 - 29, 2009 10 Food & Drink

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Excellent coffee and food is served up at Tranquil A Lunch Pad for the Sea of Tranquillity

s autumn fades into chilly winter, take chicken salad and ratatouille. quite delightful. the opportunity to enjoy Prishtina’s Despite the lunchtime swarm, the chicken Next came the ratatouille, with Tranquil’s Afew remaining sunny afternoons at nuggets arrived fairly quickly. The randomly own non-traditional take on this recipe. The Tranquil, a recent addition to the many bars shaped pieces of fried chicken, smothered in a sliced courgettes and aubergines, chopped By Maneater in Prishtina and cafés in the Te Kafet e Vogla area of the coating of crispy cornflakes and accompanied onions and stewed tomatoes were all there, but city centre. by a slightly spicy sauce, were delicious, and were joined by rigatoni pasta and a topping of Located in a maze of established venues, encompassed all the appropriate features of freshly cut mozzarella. Definitely not your Tranquil may not immediately stand out from addictive finger food. average peasant’s meal, but slightly more lav- the rest, but it does deliver a more extensive The sandwich was tasty,packing in well sea- ish. menu than most, particularly if you are look- soned sliced roast beef, lettuce, onions, toma- Desserts, which we skipped on that particu- ing for a tasty bite at lunch. toes and a healthy dose of mustard into ciabat- lar day feeling already replenished, vary daily Most of the menu has been inherited from ta bread. This entrée won’t leave you asking but the coffee was splendid. Apparently, the the owner’s old eatery Leger, which has been for more at lunchtime, and as it is priced at beans are a new Italian brand slowly spread- catering for customers in the neighbourhood more than 3 euro, I don’t think it should either. ing across coffee shops in the city, but with its of Pejton for years now. The hot chicken salad was flavoursome, but origins at Tranquil. I took a seat below the bright yellow awning, should definitely have its name changed. The The interior is modern and easy on the eye, among the other twelve-o-clockers. From an dish is actually nowhere near a salad, but but not overly private, spacious or comfortable array of sandwiches, salads and Mexican spe- more a stir-fry. Chunks of chicken and assort- for more exclusive dinner parties. But cialties, my dining partner and I went for ed veggies arrived tangled in a serving of Tranquil is a great venue for a quick, tasty We Recommend: chicken nuggets, a roast beef sandwich, hot pasta and a vinegary sauce. Again, it was lunch and wine-sipping.

PoshNosh

Enjoy an inexpensive but flavoursome lunch at this cutesy venue, serving fresh specials every day, with great salad options. 049 261 626 SachPizza

SachPizza is definitely the spot to stop at when in dire need of some quality chow, be it on a quick lunch break or on a mission to find some food after a night on the town. 044/049 896 896 Basilico

Among a myriad of so called ‘Italian’ restaurants in Prishtina, this snug eatery scores high marks for authen- tic dishes served at top speed. 044/049 276 276 Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit By Shega A’Mula • October 16 - 29, 2009 11 in Prishtina Inside Prishtina Building Review: Shop Review: Rebirth of the Rilindja Building Leonidas

Prishtina Insight was given an exclusive tour of arguably the city’s most prominent building following its 15 million euro Chocolates makeover hey say that diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but choco- ust five days before office space, and dining on the Tlate is definitely a close run- Kosovo’s first elections 18th floor, which will be their ner up (well, perhaps after shoes). Jsince its declaration of private restaurant. Now, put a bit of Belgian in the mix independence, the government While electric wiring and and you have a womanly favourite – will be unveiling the country’s unpainted drywall currently Belgian chocolates, which can be most sophisticated renovation make up the interior of the found at Leonidas in Prishtina. yet, which will be home to its building, Prishtina Insight The shop may be small, but the four largest ministries and was told that 90 percent of con- variety is quite the contrary. Petite close to 950 civil servants. struction is completed on its bundles of chocolaty joy fill the The former Rilindja build- exclusive tour of the building. glass display, from milk, dark and ing located on the corner of “300 members of staff have white selections. Coconut, cham- Garibaldi Street and Luan been working three separate pagne, rum, caramel, fruit and nut Haradinaj Street was veiled for shifts for 24 hours a day to embellishments and fillings are all construction on November 15 complete the building, and it on offer. last year, after the Mabetex will be completed on time,” Owner Bleta Zeqiri opened the Group, headed by politician said Shukri Maliqi, Mabetex shop nearly three years ago after and billionaire businessman project manager for the ven- her love for chocolate grew through Behgjet Pacolli, won the gov- ture. her travels across Europe. She told ernment-issued tender for the Maliqi first presented the Prishtina Insight that she wanted to reconstruction of the building. lobby area, which encompass- bring the famous Belgian brand to The Rilindja building was es high ceilings, large glass her own town as a sort of national initially constructed in 1978 by windows and a large reception duty. And for that, Bleta, we salute the then Autonomous area to welcome journalists, you. Province of Kosovo’s govern- guests and other individuals. New shipments arrive straight ment. It was known as the Heading through a hallway from Belgium every month, and media palace, where Albanian, to the left, Prishtina Insight change according to season and Serbian and Turkish media was led to the building’s audi- chocolate trends. If the chocolates groups produced and printed torium, which is nearly com- are destined for a special recipient, their newspapers. plete. Grecian-like architec- you can pick the appropriate wrap- However, in 1989, Albanian ture surrounds the area, com- ping for that added impact. workers were fired from their plemented by Kosovo’s crest Larger orders can also be placed positions at the building, and placed directly behind the for special events, such as weddings were told to leave, as were stage. and other massively showy occa- other Albanian staff at vari- Maliqi told Prishtina Insight sions. The price for 100 g of choco- ous institutions around the that the auditorium was not late is 3.40 euro. That will get you country. included in the approved proj- about 7 pieces of pleasure. After the end of the 1998-9 ect plan. Instead, Mabetex My preferences include white war, Albanian media returned decided to donate it to the gov- chocolate, which was superb, and to the building and continued ernment as a gift for their champagne, which was also very to issue Albanian newspapers future endeavours. pleasing. to the public. Four elevators whisk you to byPhoto MABETEX Bleta plans to open a larger shop An architect’s image of the refurbished Rilindja building, Prishtina However, from November 10, the office space, which is sur- sometime in December to satiate the Ministry of Public rounded by windows showcas- the ever growing demand for Administration, Ministry of ing immaculate views of the building was designed by native archi- Kosovars, increasing the social welfare of Belgium’s most popular export, Environment and Spatial Kosovo’s capital. The country’s tect Kadrush Grezda. Mabetex was the many families, Prishtina Insight was told apart from Tintin, perhaps. The Planning, Ministry of top ministers will be staring only national business to compete in the on the tour. new location will be across from Hotel Prishtina. Agriculture and the Ministry out upon Prishtina, hopefully tender, which included various European Project manager Maliqi insists that the Address: Rr. Agim Ramadani, of Youth, Culture and Sport devising the best policies for construction firms. building will be an innovation in design, opposite the unfinished Orthodox will be moving into the build- the country. The decision to choose Mabetex led to not only in Kosovo but also in the church. ing, occupying 17 floors of The initial project plan for the employment of hundreds of Balkans. Bar Review: Peppermint Club

engthy queues and congested dance the spacious dance area, while professional floors can now be left behind if you are DJs set the tune. Llucky enough to possess the key to a Along the large bar, and accompanying new, underground haven. Let me introduce smaller bar on the other side, stand well you to Peppermint Club, Prishtina’s newest dressed individuals contemplating what poi- and most exclusive club. son to choose from among the dozens of bot- When approaching the double doors of tles of liquors and spirits. Barmen are smart- Peppermint, located on Mother Teresa ly dressed in crisp white shirts and bowties. Square, be aware of the fact that the first The surrounding walls support elevated thing you will be asked for is if you have your booths and tables where companions indulge membership card with you. in iced champagnes and whiskies. Courting Yes, this venue operates a members-only develops, laughter rings and toasts are plenti- philosophy,which keeps its clientele satisfied, ful. and non-members out in the cold. However, a The interior incorporates black backdrops member may be able to place you on the guest with minty green, peppermint accents and list, again if you’re ‘commendable’. lighting. A spirit of freedom is felt through- A glamorous staircase leads visitors to the out the club, owing to the selectiveness of the coat check, where a handful of inviting staff management and therefore the extra space will take your al fresco apparel and lead you afforded. to the club area. No cigarette butts and empty glasses litter the floor. Instead, stilettos and Details concerning membership are byPhoto Club Peppermint freshly polished shoes graciously embrace available at gizzigroup.com/club. Peppermint Club 12 • October 16 - 29, 2009 neighbourhood

Albania Tunnel Closed for Thousands Mourn Killed Emergency Works he Thirre tunnel, part of the newly built Rreshen-Kalimash road, which Tlinks Kosovo with the Albanian sea- Sarajevo Football Fan port of Durres will be closed for traffic for several weeks, once again focusing atten- tion on the project’s cost and feasibility. News in brief News The Albanian Ministry of Transportation and Public Works By Srecko Latal in Sarajevo announced on Friday that the tunnel that is the core of the one billion euro highway project will be closed for further construc- ore than 5,000 people from tion works. Sarajevo and other Bosnian Mtowns gathered at Sarajevo’s main cemetery to pay their respects and bid their last farewells to 24-year-old FC Sarajevo fan Vedran Puljic, who was killed in a clash between Sarajevo fans, residents and police after a football match against a rival club. The funeral on Thursday afternoon was attended by people from all over Bosnia, senior officials as well as the coach of the Bosnian national football team and sever- al players.

Meanwhile, news of the circumstances byPhoto Erebara Gjergj The ‘Patriotic’ Highway behind the violence that let rip last Sunday in the southern town of Siroki Brijeg continued to unfold, revealing Serbian PM Addresses Public inconsistencies between different ethnic groups and levels of administration, Firings media reported last Friday. Media expressed concern that violence erbian Prime Minister Mirko Photo byNidzara Ahmetasevic byNidzara Photo Cvetkovic says that public sector cuts, in Siroki Brijeg, as well as several previ- Violence erupted in Bosnia after a footballmatch between rival clubs ous incidents that could have been ethni- Swhich could reach 3,400 jobs, should cally-related, indicate that years of ten- detained. police officials, including almost all top not necessarily be directly blamed on condi- sions that have so far manifested them- Local police in Siroki Brijeg and the policemen in the town saying that local tions set by the IMF in negotiations with selves principally among Bosnia’s politi- Bosniak-Croat dominated Federation are police failed to adequately protect Siroki Serbia. cians, have begun to spill over and affect also investigating the violence itself, as Brijeg citizens and their property. In an interview with broadcaster B92, ordinary people. well as the circumstances that could have Meanwhile, organisers cancelled sever- Cvetkovic said that the reform of the public Siroki Brijeg residents and police, who permitted Knezovic’s escape. al previously scheduled friendly football sector was necessary since the state could are predominately Bosnian Croats, and the A Siroki Brijeg prosecutor released matches between several Bosnian and not maintain current funding rates. predominantly Bosniak (Bosnian Muslim) eight court policemen who were detained Croatian football teams citing tensions “It is wrong to connect rationalisation with FC Sarajevo football fans continue to in relation to Knezovic’s escape, only for and a compromised security situation. On the IMF conditions […] which are then por- blame each other for starting the fight. the Federation’s Supreme Court to sus- the day of Puljic’s funeral, in one of the trayed as [requiring] only layoffs,” he said. Police in Bosnia and Croatia are search- pend six of them pending further investi- predominately Croat Sarajevo suburbs, a Last Friday, the Serbian government ing for Oliver Knezovic, who is the key gation. Catholic church suffered minor damage adopted a bill limiting the number of public suspect in Puljic’s death, after he escaped The head of the police in the after rocks were thrown into the church sector employees, after the government and from his prison cell early on Tuesday Herzegovina-Neretva canton, Zoran Galic, and graffiti insulting Bosnian Croats was trade union representatives reached an morning, only few hours after he was has also dismissed five Siroki Brojeg sprayed on a nearby road. agreement on the issue. Romanian Opposition Nominates PM Candidate

By Marian Chiriac in

Bucharest byPhoto FoNet Milorad Dodik

omanian opposition parties Bosnian Serb Leaders Rebuff agreed on Wednesday to nominate Rthe mayor of Sibiu, Klaus Western Proposal Johannis, for the prime minister’s office, osnian Serb leaders have rebuffed a following Tuesday’s collapse of the package of reforms and incentives Democratic Liberal government proposed by the US and EU to end The Social Democratic Party, PSD, B Bosnia’s political crisis. Liberals, PNL, and ethnic Hungarian The package was presented at emergency UMDR party were unanimous in decid- negotiations held at Butmir military camp ing to put their collective political near Sarajevo last week. A group of EU and weight behind Johannis, arguing he is US technical experts has remained in the “politically independent and has already country and is holding meetings with key proved his qualities as a manager and local leaders, in an attempt to pave the way public servant”. for the successful continuation of the nego- Johannis, 50, heads the Democratic tiations on October 20.

Forum of Germans in Romania, FDGR. byPhoto sibiu.ro On Tuesday afternoon, US and EU repre- He is the first ethnic German mayor of a Sibiu, Romania sentatives met the prime minister of Romanian city since the collapse of com- Republika Srpska, Milorad Dodik, who munism in 1990. His leadership has seen The motion was brought by opposition od not exceeding 45 days, during which heads the Serb-dominated entity’s strongest the restoration of Sibiu’s municipal parties, who blamed the government for President Traian Basescu will decide on party, the Alliance of Independent Social infrastructure. burgeoning unemployment and falling a replacement administration. Democrats, SNSD. Romanian Prime Minister Emil Boc’s wages, and was carried by 258 votes to The collapse of the government comes After the meeting, Dodik told journalists minority centre-right government col- 176. as the country prepares for a presiden- that a number of proposals, floated by the lapsed after losing a no-confidence vote The Democratic Liberals will continue tial election, scheduled for late EU and US officials, are unacceptable. in parliament. to govern with limited powers for a peri- November. opinion • October 16 - 29, 2009 13 Kosovo’s Catch 22 Dear Teta Mia... Let us begin with corruption. The responsible for not fighting it as is European Commission’s Progress Report Kosovo’s wider public for tolerating it. To for this year makes the point that corrup- add to that, EULEX should be careful not By Liridon Latifi tion is widespread and remains a major to turn to what economists term “per- Teta Mia solves your problems problem. Indeed, it is my belief that what verse incentives”, in which inadvertent we find in Kosovo is not high levels of incentives are created when the original low-level corruption, but rather high lev- goal is to do something completely differ- t has often been said that Kosovo is a Shall I vote or not? It’s the same people, bull*****ing els of high-level corruption. There is a ent. As things stand now, from the view- joint international and local under- about the same stuff over and over again! Please help! striking correlation between a country’s point of the average citizen, both the Itaking. The nature of the relation- level of corruption and its economic well- principal and the agent are not working ship between Kosovo and the interna- being. Kosovo’s is the poorest economy in for the betterment of society. Sincerely yours, tional community is complex in that we Europe and the World Bank ranks Kosovo Next, we will see what happens in the A lost citizen have myriad institutions that run the as one of the worst places to do business. energy sector where the principal now is country. When these institutions cooper- I must admit that when Vetevendosje the government and the agent is foreign ell, A Lost Citizen, you pose a probabilistic ate and complement each other’s work Movement criticises the work of the firms/governments, both of whom have problem. Thirty days from now, there will they produce an efficient outcome in international community, they have one created a situation that is clearly hurting Wbe municipal and mayoral elections in which society’s welfare is advanced. Kosovo. Let’s assess the likelihood of you voting in When conflicting interests are at work argument with which I tend to agree. And society’s developmental goals. The gov- they produce an outcome that is subopti- that is that our corrupt political elite ernment is not transparent. It is afraid to them according to different variables. mal in terms of welfare advancement. make it easier for the international com- admit that the New Kosovo, Kosova e Re, Are you a party member, striving to improve the The principal-agent theory (problem) munity to dictate its will. project is near failure because foreign lives of your fellow citizens through the honourable can be employed here, with the principal In practice, it is in the interest of these firms have withdrawn from the tender. In medium of politics? If so, you’ll be highly likely to being the international community, and elites not to fight corruption, organised this example, it is the government’s fault vote, perhaps several times in direct proportion to the agent, local leaders. The examples crime, and money laundering since the for taking so long to develop the rules of your commitment to The Cause. It is also possible that follow will also use the opposite defi- profit they accumulate is enormous. At the game, while at the same time it is the that you’re a party militant, in which case – judging nition when the international communi- the same time, with a dose of caution fault of the international community for from experience – you probably won’t have time to ty becomes an agent, and the principal is exercised here, it seems that it is also in allowing the government to take this cast a ballot for your chosen party since you will be the government. the interest of the international commu- long. We should also not omit the fact that busy encouraging others to do the same outside the nity not to put an end to these illegal the companies were European and In this short note, I adopt the phrase polling station. activities that the elites engage in. In American, strongly backed by their coined by Joseph Heller, “catch 22”, to Are you alive? It makes little difference. Being a other words, the society finds itself in a respective governments. describe two unusual situations in which registered voter in Kosovo is a bit like being we find ourselves in Kosovo. In a broader classical catch-22 situation and is left In other words, the energy sector has Schroedinger’s Cat: depending on the vantage point definition, catch 22 is primarily “a no-win rather helpless. seen its share of big influence and expect- of the observer, you may or may not be alive at any situation” or “lose-lose situation”. I shall Some would argue that it is the job of edly low results. Politics, local and inter- one point in time. attempt to show that with regard to eco- Kosovo citizens and not the international national, has meddled with what is other- nomic development, both the principal and community to deal with corruption. This wise a lucrative economic opportunity.In The Central Election Commission has decided that the agent have done a poor job in maximis- is a valid point, but it is weak in that this example, the society is a victim of it is not in its mandate to remove dead voters from ing society’s welfare. I take the example of EULEX is the mission which is here to another catch-22 situation due to the the electoral roll, and has optimistically sent out corruption, and the recent developments uphold the rule of law. Therefore, the specifics of Kosovo. We find it somehow voter registration documents to all those people in the energy sector to show that a catch-22 next time corruption is mentioned as a difficult to find the right balance between whose municipal branch of the ministry of internal situation exists in these two fields. problem in Kosovo, EULEX is just as being “EU-oriented and US-friendly”. affairs does not know they are dead. In fact, being dead may actually make it more likely that you will vote, or at least donate your vote to someone who What is needs it more than you do. How old are you? Because this question was posed the princi- Wanted: to me on Facebook, I’m going to generalise terribly and hazard a guess that you are at least under 35 pal-agent years of age. The younger you are, the less likely you

Marketing English as a Foreign Language (EFL) Teacher are to vote, and if you are under 18, you’re very theory? unlikely to do so indeed. It’s a sad indictment both to teach English to an inter-ethnic group of high school on politicians for their seeming irrelevance to young he principal- students, for the Prizren Access English Program* people’s concerns, and on young people for not being agent theory concerned enough, that the young are so flippant Tis the prob- about this glorious right bestowed on them by their lem of designing elders. Where are you registered to vote? In 2007, mechanisms that Who: English Teacher, preferably a native speaker of English Skenderaj municipality had the highest turnout of will induce agents with training in EFL. 50.7 per cent, with an impressive 80.5 per cent of peo- to act in their prin- ple voting in Mayor Sami Lushtaku in the first cipals’ interests. What: English classes for a class of about 20 multi-ethnic round. But if you’re registered in Leposaviq, then I’d If you, the prin- be pretty certain you won’t vote – five people braved cipal, hire a gar- high school students. their peers’ threats and intimidation to put a cross dener, your agent, When: Two classes per week, running an hour and a half. on their ballot here last time. to mow your lawn I’m going to take a wild guess that you’re not a party member and that you are alive, so we can get while you are away, Classes may be held late in the afternoon or early in straight to statistics. Official turnout has fallen all you can observe the evening. steadily since 2000 – from 79.0 per cent in 2000 to 39.1 is how the lawn per cent in 2007. If this trend continues, turnout in looks when you Where: American Corner Prizren, located in the Municipal this time round should be a rather lethargic 29 per come back. He cent, which equals a three in ten chance that you will could have mowed Library. vote. it every ten days, How much: Teacher will be paid a competitive hourly salary. There’s one more variable to take into account, as you agreed, or which defeats my statistical prowess: How grumpy are you? he could have wait- Do you enjoy decrying the state of the roads, ed until two days For more information, please contact: Elizabeth A. Lewis, grumbling about the lack of rural public transport, before you were whistling through your teeth as the rubbish piles up, due home and U.S. Embassy Pristina, [email protected] AND Jehona or heaving a heavy sigh when you take each of your mowed it only kids to school at different times due to the lack of once. By prevailing Shala, Kosovo Education Center (KEC) [email protected] school buildings? on a neighbour to If so, A Lost Citizen, then I predict that you shall monitor your vote, even if only to spoil your ballot. For bothering to get out of bed on November 15 and slope down to employee’s behav- *Access English is a program funded by the your local polling centre will give you one inalien- iour, you could find U.S. Department of State and implemented by the able right for the next four years: The right to moan. out what he actual- http://bit.ly/votekaa ly did, although at Kosovo Education Center (KEC). If you have a question for Teta Mia, email some cost. [email protected] 14 • October 16 - 29, 2009 If you would like your NGO to appear in our Making a Difference feature, please NGO Focus email [email protected] Ensuring the Election is Democracy in Action ith local elections looming, “The most difficult thing we con- Kosovar civil society is sider is the potential low turnout in Wgearing up for its largest- these elections,” said Ismaili. ever monitoring effort. Democracy To encourage young people to go in Action is a coalition of more to the polls on November 15, DiA is than 50 NGOs intent on ensuring organising a video competition for free and fair elections on November young amateur film enthusiasts to 15. come up with short video clips that Co-ordinated by the Kosovo promote voting. Democratic Institute, Democracy in DiA has trained 65 long-term Action – or Demokracia në Veprim observers who will themselves in Albanian – will place election train the short-term observers post- observers in all 2,256 polling sta- ed in polling stations all over tions in the first round of the elec- Kosovo. It will also make sure the tion. There will also be mobile mayoral runoffs, two-three weeks teams of observers to assist with after the first round, are monitored any problems that may arise. just as closely. This immense monitoring effort But with complaints already that is particularly important for some political parties began cam- Kosovo’s international reputation, paigning too early, concerns that says Valmir Ismaili, DiA’s coordina- Kosovo Serbs will not vote in large tor. numbers, and several irregularities “These are the first elections held in the November 2007 elections still in the independent state of Kosova unresolved, DiA will not have an and are the first elections organised easy task to ensure every voter’s purely by Kosovars themselves. vote is counted. Even though these are local elec- For Ismaili, failure is not an tions, the way we run them will option: “Democracy in Action have an important impact on how together, with other stakehold- Kosova will be considered interna- ers engaged in the election, will tionally. take all necessary measures to “Therefore, monitoring of these ensure free and fair elections. In elections by local as well as interna- this way, we will tell the interna- tional observers is of a crucial byPhoto Besar Likmeta tional community that Kosovars Democracy in Action, a coalition of 50 NGOs, is concerned about the turn-out for the November elections importance,” Ismaili explains. are capable of running their own DiA has 11 member NGOs and election day. pers. elections. DiA did it successfully in state.” more than 50 NGO partners DiA observers will also be pres- Ismaili expects the monitoring 2007 and many organisations that For more information about throughout Kosovo. Together, the ent during the counting process, process to run smoothly, but wor- are now part of DiA were previous- Democracy in Action, go to their organisations will monitor the vot- and will monitor the media cam- ries that people will not turn up to ly engaged in the election monitor- website ing process itself and report on any paign conducted by political parties vote. ing process through different mech- irregularities that may occur on on national TV and in all newspa- “DiA is not new in monitoring anisms. www.demokracianeveprim.org

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7 6 831 2 5 723 194673852 23 64 5 35 46 627581394 By Shega A’Mula • October 16 - 29, 2009 15 in Prishtina Timeout National Theatre

Saturday, October 17 – 20:00 Premiere of play “Excellency”,by Ardian Kycyku, directed by Enton Kaca

Tuesday, October 18 – 20:00 Play “Excellency”,by Ardian Kycyku, directed by Enton Kaca

Wednesday, October 19 – 20:00 Play “Excellency”,by Ardian Kycyku, directed by Enton Kaca Friday, October 23 – 20:00 Play “Death and the Maiden”,by Ariel Dorfman, directed Fatos Berisha

Saturday, October 24 – 20:00 Play “Deysiland”,by Kristof Durang, directed by Agon Myftari

Monday, October 26 – 20:00 Wednesday, October 26 – 20:00 Play “The Dead Army’s General”,by Ismail Kadare, Play “The Dead Army’s General”,by Ismail Kadare, directed by Dino Mustafiq directed by Dino Mustafiq

Tuesday, October 26 – 20:00 Thursday, October 29 – 20:00 Play “The Dead Army’s General”,by Ismail Kadare, Play “Death and the Maiden”,by Ariel Dorfman, directed by Dino Mustafiq directed Fatos Berisha

Pristina In Your Pocket city guide Jazz Club 212 Karaoke Night Oda Theatre New issue for sale at Albanian theatrical company Moissi in cooperation with Oda Theatre presents the play Every Dukagjini and Dit e Nat Immigrants, by S. Mrozhek, premiering on October 19 at 20:00. Actors from Tirana and Prishtina come together to showcase their artistic development and history. For more info tel. +38 649 173 447 Showings October 20, 21, and 22 from 20:00 at Oda Theatre Thursday! http://pristina.inyourpocket.com MAROON PUB 16 • October 16 - 29, 2009 marketing