Mess: Court ruling keeps political crisis going. PAGE 4

August 29-September 11, 2014 #140 Price 1€ Prishtina Insight

Burek Yoga Nightclubs

Beer Trileqe Makiato

PI Guide: The people and places that make this city great. PAGES 7-19 PageTwo2 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight HOW TO FUND EXTREMISM - 3. Create fake work contracts AND NOT GET Create 10 fictitious contracts for workers in Afghanistan and/or Iraq, where thousands of CAUGHT Kosovars have taken lucrative jobs as contractors. 1. Start a fake business 4. Create a web page for a fictitious company that works internationally. Include staf bios and job Open accounts in Kosovo vacancies for extra credibility. Contacts in Kosovo present contracts while opening bank accounts. A bank ofcer likely will do little more than check the company name against a black list, and perform a Google search to verify that the company on the contract exists. The existence of the website will provide sufcient proof of this. 2. Prishtina Balkan Investigative Reporting Network ™ Open a Middle East bank account Insight BZchVZHijYZciZkZ!ÑghiÒddg!&%%%%!Eg^h]i^cV!@dhdkd ™PHONE: (-&%(-')((*-™EDITOR-IN-CHIEF:CViZ Open a company bank account account in the IVWV`™ STAFF:?ZiVM]VggV!BVgXjhIVccZg!KVaZg^Z=de`^ch!EZig^i8daaV`j! Middle East, such as in Yemen or Afghanistan. EVg^bDaajg^!CZ`iVgOd\_Vc^VcY6g^_ZiVAV_`V#™DESIGN:IgZbWZaVi™Eg^h]i^cV >ch^\]i^hhjeedgiZYWni]ZCdglZ\^Vc:bWVhhn!GdX`Z[ZaaZg7gdi]Zgh;jcY Deposit 50,000 euros per month as income. VcYi]Z7Va`Vc>ckZhi^\Vi^kZGZedgi^c\CZildg`# Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 3

inancial crimes expert Bashkim Zeqiri recently explained to FPI how a terrorist group in the Middle East could hypothetically 5. bring money into Kosovo under the nose of authorities. Make payments Monthly payments of 5,000 euros to 10 Kosovars begin coming in, appearing as regular salaries for from the editor civilian contractors. Transactions won’t arouse suspicion of the banks or authorities. Fighting terror means cutting of the money, too The arrest of 43 suspected Muslim on the books to properly monitor radicals by Kosovo Police in Au- fnancial transactions, it isn’t put- gust seemed intended to send the ting them into use, Zeqiri says. message that authorities are seri- A combination of a lack of per- ous about fighting terrorism. Ac- sonnel and cooperation among the cording to the Kosovo Intelligence entities tasked with monitoring f- Agency, more than 130 Kosovars nancial transactions – the Kosovo have gone to fight in Syria or Iraq Intelligence Agency, Kosovo Police - mostly young men fighting for and the Financial Intelligence Unit radical Muslim groups including – has created almost an open door the Islamic State. Naturally, this has for terrorist organizations, among raised concerns of what they’ll do others, to bring money into Ko- when they come home. The arrests sovo. While a group such as the Is- 6. suggest some may be interested in lamic State or al-Qaeda might raise turning on their own country. some red fag if it, say, tried to wire These ar- 10 million euros from a charity on a Make the money disappear re st s , a lon g government watch list, it takes rela- with troubling tively little efort or sophistication Simply start withdrawing cash. Cash transactions under reports about to move money without arousing 10,000 euros are not actively monitored. But to be extra a little boy re- suspicion and make it disappear in safe, buying and reselling property is an easy way to portedly taken CViZ Kosovo. The large number of Koso- by his father to Tabak vars working as contractors in Af- launder large sums of money. fight in Syria or ghanistan and Iraq has made things :Y^idg"^c"8]^Z[ the Facebook easier to disguise transactions as le- post showing gitimate payments for work. a young man The good news it is also easy to beating a prisoner, are leading many uncover such transactions. It re- in Kosovo to do a lot of soul searching quires doing a bit of due diligence. about a problem that dates back to In Zeqiri’s experience, it’s even the end of the war. This problem isn’t as simple as performing a Google unique to Kosovo, and the answers search to realize that an entity con- of how we got here are complicated. nected to a transaction is suspect. But it’s safe to assume that signifcant When I chatted with Zeqiri about amounts of money have helped pro- this, he pointed out that Kosovo duce so many young people eager nevertheless is doing a better job - and willing to take up arms for fright- and has better laws - than some of ening groups like the Islamic State. its neighbors when it comes to de- It’s also shockingly easy to bring this tecting suspect transactions. The money into Kosovo. trouble for Kosovo, which also isn’t Bashkim Zeqiri, an analyst for alone in facing the threat of home- 7. BIRN, this newspaper’s publisher, grown terrorism, is that the stakes is a financial crimes expert who are higher. Kosovo is getting its has done stints with the Kosovo Po- footing as a country, and is fghting START SPENDING! lice, the Financial Intelligence Unit for international recognition and and the private sector. He recently against the perception that it’s a ji- Whether you want to keep a terror cell fed and noted in an op-ed on Kallxo.com hadist narco-state. As such Kosovo that millions of euros have entered has a greater burden to show that its clothed, fund Sharia law classes - the money is Kosovo from the Middle East with serious about tackling terrorism. safely out of the reach of authorities. little to no scrutiny by the authori- And that means more than just ties. While Kosovo has the laws making some high-profle arrests. 4 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight

Nation COURT 83 days and counting since Kosovo held national elections on June 8. Meanwhile, the country remains under the caretaker government of PM Hashim Thaci.

No clear path around political logjam Koha Ditore. The accident and 35 percent of Kosovo’s cratic Party of Kosovo, PDK - with the Only when Jahjaga nominates another in 2008, which energy by burning lignite weight of the highest court behind it a Prime Minister is there legally im- took the life of another coal, which is considered - on another, the political tug of war posed deadline to form a govern- worker, appear to have the dirtiest kind of energy has yet to produce a real winner. ment - within 60 days. Once that changed little about because it emits more A ruling released on Tues- time limit expires, new elections how things are done at greenhouse gases than day by the Constitutional Court, must be called. the plant. There are no other kinds of fossil fuels. concerning the election of the An earlier Constitutional Court signs that authorities are Located just 10 kilom- speaker of parliament, has not of- Ruling means that Thaci's PDK, as taking concrete steps to eters from Prishtina, the fered a path forward - and lef many the party that won the most votes prevent another catas- plant is considered one of scratching their heads. in the June elections, has the right trophe from occurring or the worst polluters in Eu- The court threw out the elec- to name the Prime Minister nomi- are considering shutting rope, and last year inter- tion in July of the opposition lead- nee, which will presumably be down the plant before national donors pledged er Isa Mustafa as Speaker and said Thaci himself. If he fails to form a 2017 as planned. 154 million Euros to close that the PDK - as the largest single government, Jahjaga can nomi- The explosion caused it down. According to party parliament - had the sole nate someone of her own choosing. damage to infrastructure World Bank research, 835 right to nominate a candidate. The two Constitutional Court worth 12.4 million euros, people die annually be- But the court ofered no alterna- rulings have dealt blows to the op- plus 180,000 euros in the cause of pollution-related tive solution should Hashim Thaci’s position coalition, led by Ramush municipality of Obiliq. A illnesses, and it takes fve PDK fail to get its Speaker elected. Haradinaj, which includes his par- spokesman for Kosovo years of the lives of those Meanwhile, President Atifete ty, the Alliance for the Future of Ko- Electricity Distribution who live in its vicinity. Jahjaga is signaling that she will sovo, AAK, the Democratic League Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 5

How the Constitutional Court decision NO ALTERNATIVES Briefly complicates things The ruling does not address what will happen if PDK cannot get its nominee for speaker elected. This could potentially lead Critics bash planned power to an endless cycles of failed nominations rate hike. Consumers in that can only be broken by the Kosovo will have to pay more opposition voting in PDK’s speaker for their electricity if the or dissolving Parliament for new elections. recommendations for a price increase taken by the En- ergy Regulatory Ofce are ap- ONLY PDK CAN proved. The authorities say the A increase is needed to compen- NOMINATE A SPEAKER sate for the damage caused by The Constitution calls for the speaker of the EVERYONE an explosion that took place Parliament to be nominated by the largest on June 6 at the “Kosovo A” parliamentary group. The court has taken this HAS TO SHOW UP power plant in Obiliq. Critics to mean the party that won the most votes say the planned hike of 5 per in the elections, the PDK, rejecting the The court has ruled that the constitutive validity of the post-election coalition session of parliament – the session cent for electricity is unfair and of NISMA, AAK and LDK. where the speaker is elected among bad for the economy. Ibrahim other things – can only be valid if Rexhepi, an economics expert, every MP shows up. A single told Balkan Insight that the lawmaker can hold up the entire process. decision efectively punished ordinary people “for the two operators’ mismanagement”. of Kosovo, LDK, and NISMA. porters this week. Serbia reinforces border after The parties united shortly afer “The court says... the assem- policeman's killing. The Ser- the elections in June as a united bly should find a way to elect the bian Interior Minister says he front against Thaci. With the op- speaker, so we have the solution to is sending fresh police ofcers position Vetevendosje [Self-de- this, we have our own candidate, to the Kosovo border follow- termination] party ofering condi- Mustafa, and we also have the ing the death of an ofcer tional backing, Haradinaj’s election votes,” he added. who was shot near the border, seemed a certainty. But it’s unclear whether, if the allegedly by illegal loggers. THE HOLDOUT However, in its two rulings, the bloc did so, the result would be B Stevan Sindjelic, of the spe- court rejected the legitimacy of a another court challenge. The Con- Judge Robert cial police unit known as the coalition formed after elections, stitutional Court also stated in its Carolan’s has Gendarmerie, died Thursday in concluding that the PDK, which ruling that every one of the 120 ofered clear, Belgrade, after being shot by no-nonsense won around 30 per cent of the vote, members of parliament must be dissents in unknown attackers, reportedly must have the frst opportunity to present for the body’s frst session, the last two illegal loggers from Kosovo. nominate its pick for Prime Minis- when the Speaker is elected. court decisions Kosovo police said that they ter - and also nominate the Speaker. But in doing so, the court has concerning the have no information as yet on post-elections The PDK, for its part, insists that given each MP the power to efec- debacle. In an increased presence of Ser- it can summon up enough votes to tively block any nomination, thus the latest he bian ofcers on the border. elect a Speaker, and has also voiced requiring widespread consensus wrote,“The confidence that it can get Thaci for the election of any nominee. conclusion and Kosovo Serb leader pleads reasoning of elected to a third mandate as Prime While the major political par- the majority not-guilty to war crimes. Serb Minister. ties have not voiced any serious in this case is political party leader Oliver “We have enough votes to pass interest in holding new elections, wrong because Ivanovic has pleaded not guilty all these decisions and to imple- both the opposition coalition and it misinterprets to committing war crimes specific ment the will of the Kosovo citi- the PDK could gain from new polls. language of the during the Kosovo conflict zens,” PDK MP Adem Grabovci told New elections would allow the Constitution. It and inciting the murder of Koha Ditore. opposition bloc to run as an elec- also erroneously Albanians during clashes that Doing so, however, will requir- toral coalition, while the PDK could attempts to erupted afterwards. A former answer questions C ing getting votes from the opposi- boost its votes if it persuaded its that, as a Serbian government ofcial tion bloc and or from Vetevendosje, former coalition partner, New Ko- Constitutional and head of a Kosovo Serb which would be challenging. sovo Alliance, AKR, to run together Court, it does not political party called Freedom, Haradinaj has said the opposi- with it. The AKR failed to get the 5 have the authority Democracy, Justice, Ivanovic to answer.” tion bloc will go ahead and nomi- per cent of the votes it needed to get is accused of war crimes by nate its candidate for Speaker into parliament. ordering the murder of four once the PDK has failed to secure Analyst Leon Malazogu said ethnic Albanians in Mitrovica its nominee. he doubted a new election would on April 14, 1999 during the “The right that the court gave change anything. “It is not in the NATO bombing. He is also to the PDK to nominate the Speak- interest of Kosovo citizens,” Mala- accused, along with another er ends immediately with the zogu said. “I think that we would person, of inciting the killing of failure from this party to get the arrive in the same position again ethnic Albanians during unrest required votes,” Haradinaj told re- afer more elections.” that erupted after the war. 6 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight

"
!



 "
!



 "

 "





 "
 "
 "
 "
 "
! "
! "
  "
  Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 7 Cover 8 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight Cover

KALTRINA KRASNIQI

A witness to a city that endures

By Nate Tabak That period informed her latest film, “The Canaries Know,” a fic- Kaltrina Krasniqi has seen Prishti- tional story of a family in Prishtina na though its ups and downs. during the bombing. The short flm The filmmaker was born in 1981, infuses her own experience of the the year that marked the end of conflicting emotions of that time a short-lived golden age for Alba- – the elation of the bombing bring- nians in Kosovo. Protests at the ing a close to a traumatic period, University of Prishtina became a while the bombing itself brought rallying point for Albanians as the its own trauma. small political, economic, cultural “When the first bomb fell we renaissance that began in the sec- were happy, but after it fell, we ond half of the 1970s, afer Tito ex- knew nothing would ever be tended Kosovo’s autonomy, began the same again and it wasn’t. It to unravel. changed us all,” Krasniqi says. As a young child living in the While the bombs ended a peri- center of Prishtina, not far from od of oppression for Albanians and the Grand Hotel, Krasniqi did not brought them the political freedom feel the efects of the turmoil. She they had sought for years, it also recalls a more beautiful, liveable, marked the start of a complicated place. period for Prishtina. The small city “There were political tensions expanded rapidly with new people but I enjoyed growing up here and buildings, bringing chaos and mostly because Prishtina was nev- ugliness, particularly as a result of er designed to be a big city, it was a unchecked illegal construction. small town,” Krasniqi says. “Us kids Krasniqi misses parts of the old from the center didn’t really have Prishtina, but she has also helped parks, but we had the city center. bring life to the new Prishtina. All the kids that lived in the center Along with her partner, the musi- mixed, which means Serbs, Albani- cian Genc Salihu, and the aspiring ans and everyone, and it was safe.” writer Baton Domi, she established In the 1990s, things turned from Dit’ e Nat’, a bookstore and café that bad to worse. In 1989 Kosovo lost the has brought something beautiful last vestiges of autonomy, thanks to to a chaotic city in transition. In Serbian President Slobodan Milo- a city where cafés come and go, sevic, while tensions worsened be- Dit’ e Nat’ has endured as a place tween Serbs and the increasingly where everyone from high school marginalized Albanians. By the students to the old intelligentsia, time she was 13, in the mid-1990s, artists, musicians, hipsters, and Krasniqi felt that the former sense international mission employees of security had disappeared. can come together in a welcom- The situation escalated into ing environment lined with books war, which only stopped with a and ofen buzzing with people and NATO bombing campaign in 1999. music. While the war was hardest in rural “The magic of Prishtina comes areas, Prishtina was nevertheless from the people and their endless a scary place, particularly during energy, an energy that wants to the bombing campaign. Along keep the city and themselves in- with her brother and sister, Kras- tact. Several times it felt as if this niqi remained in the city for the would disintegrate entirely, but first three weeks of the bombing there are people who continuous- before her mother found a way to ly work and try to keep it together,” get them to Skopje. Krasniqi says. Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 9

variety of pastries, desserts, chocolates CHEAP EATS and homemade pite. You can also enjoy a cofee after your burek, an option many Burek, burgers reign at Bosna burek stores lack. Bosna is a local chain of restaurants here LOCATION: Anton Cetta Street. Second in Kosovo that ofer a more traditional, location on Eqrem Cabej street, close to Balkan version of fast food. It’s a casual Bill Clinton Boulevard. HOURS: Monday- and mint clean venue and not to mention Saturday, 7am-9pm. Sunday, 7am- 6pm. wallet-friendly. You can get a combo CONTACT: 038 229 752. meal of a burger, fries, and a coke all for under 3 euro. Bosna has a quality burger A Bite Between Classes: that Prishtina Insight loves. The beef Burektore Studenti patty is plump, juicy and absolutely deli- Across from the University of Prishtina, cious. The side fries weren’t too greasy the name is self-explanatory. Burektore or salty, and were cooked to a golden Studenti is a favorite amongst students, crisp. The qebapa seemed to be the more just ask any student in Prishtina. With a popular option in the restaurant. The small, traditional venue, and only a few qebapa were well seasoned, grilled to tables, Burektore Studenti has the classic perfection and tucked away between burek options: spinach, meat and cheese. two flufy pieces of bread like a sandwich. Prishtina Insight went with the cheese They also have some of the best burek in burek, the dough was flakey and stufed Kosovo. Bosna’s locations are ideal since with cheese and there’s no question as to many of them are just a short walk from why this place is a classic. the center. The service was quick and our LOCATION: On George Bush Street, across bill for two was less than 6 euro. from the RTK building. BOSNA 1 LOCATION: Underneath the Kurriz thoroughfare in Dardania. BOSNA 2 LOCA- Picadilly: Oily, Doughy, TION: Perandori Justinian street. HOURS: Simply Satisfying Burek Monday-Sunday, 7am-10pm. Picadilly’s burek is less crispy and has more of a oily, dough-like texture. Although it’s A PERFECT SATURDAY IN PRISHTINA Tender, Tasty Chicken at Lupa very greasy, the meat burek Prishtina In- “I would go to Dit’ e Nat’, have a cofee The place is literally falling apart, but the sight tried was flavorful, juicy and satisfy- – short espresso – and then jump in a chicken is amazing. There’s a little secret ing. The burek is also baked right in front of cab, go to Germia park, take a walk, and that those run-down, sketchy looking customers. In most burektores, bureks are have some tea. Then I’d go back to city, restaurants tend to serve the best food heated up from whatever is leftover in the have some lunch at Pjata, and go to the in town. Most restaurants in Prishtina morning. Most Picadilly customers take National Gallery.” put great efort into their design interior their burek to go because there are only a to lure customers in, the food, however few tables and the aroma of burek can get Dit’ e Nat’ lacks that motivation. Lupa’s is far from overwhelming. A local customer told us, This bookstore and café, as the name being an attractive restaurant, and will no need to try anymore because this is the suggests — it means Day and Night in make you question why you sat down best burek in town. Albanian— is perfect at any time of day. there in the first place, but once you try LOCATION: Agim Ramadani Street, next During the day, it’s a quiet place to have their chicken - you’ll be sure to return. to Hotel Sirius. HOURS: Monday through great cofee and get some work done. In For 2 euro, you’ll get a large portion of Saturday, 7am-4pm. the evening, the place livens up a bit, with juicy and well seasoned chicken on the a solid selection of drinks, including good bone, along with a small side salad. Don’t cocktails and Sabaja Beer. They frequent- expect to see a menu, or even matching The City Burektore: Venezzia ly have intimate musical events. dishes and silverware, because they only Located in the center of Prishtina, the LOCATION: Fazli Grajqevci street, behind serve chicken, and they do it well. Venezzia bakery ofers many baked Skanderbeg Statue. HOURS: Monday- LOCATION: Across from the Bill Clinton goods besides their bureks. At Venezzia, Saturday, 8am-midnight, Sundays Statue, on Bill Clinton Boulevard. Prishtina Insight initially ordered the 10am-8pm. CONTACT: 038 742 037, info@ HOURS: Monday-Saturday, 9am-11pm. spinach burek, but it was sold out (once ditenat.com CONTACT: 049-282-828. again), so we went with the cheese burek. The burek was moist but not too oily, Pjata flaky on the outside, but soft and chewy There seems to be a revolving door of nice THE GREAT near the center. The cheese was salty, restaurants in Prishtina, many of them BUREK CRAWL but fresh. The location of Venezzia is also not actually nice or delicious. Pjata has ideal, since it’s surrounded by some of lasted, however. It serves modern cuisine Furra Lumi, Prishtina’s best stores and cafes. elegantly without being overbearing. a High Class Burek Option LOCATION: Rexhep Luci street, near Luan Their homemade pasta is superb, and Near the University of Prishtina’s student Haradinaj street. HOURS: Monday-Sun- the staf take care of their meat. Brunch cafeteria Menza e Studenteve, it’s hard day, 7am-10pm. is especially good, and wins points for to get burek at Lumi’s because it’s almost including a potent Bloody Mary. always sold out. Prishtina Insight sam- Burektore Destan, LOCATION: Ali Pashe Tepelena No 1 at pled the cheese burek, which was baked Proudly Traditional Gazmend Zajmi Street. HOURS: Daily, 11am to a golden crisp, incredibly pufy, and Located across the street from the to 11pm. CONTACT: 038 220739 not too oily with just the right amount of Ministry of Public Services, Burektore feta cheese. Lumi is also famous for their Destan is a tiny venue where you’ll have 10 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight Cover

ALEX BUTLER AND ETIDA ZEKA

Brewers quench an emerging thirst

By Nate Tabak According to customs fgures, Ko- sovo is the least thirsty country in “Check this out,” Alex Butler says, Europe. motioning from the back of his The owners hope that the brewery. Between stainless steel drinking culture can change. Zeka, tanks is a stout glass jug in wooden whose go-to beverage is instant va- housing. Inside a tannish sludge nilla cappuccino, discovered a sof moves about, periodically let- spot for beer though one of Butler’s ting out a belch of carbon dioxide home brews, a Russian Imperial through the top. “That’s life,” But- stout. ler says, with the enthusiasm of a Butler, on the other hand, has proud father. gotten to know Prishtina through Butler, 28, is making an experi- Zeka and her family. Zeka laughs mental India Pale Ale with a new when admitting that Butler’s kind of Slovenian hop, the plant first restaurant experience was that gives beer its bitterness and at Symphony, a kitschy place in an especially key ingredient in Ulpiana that feels like it hasn’t the American-style craf beer that changed much since the 1990s, Sabaja brews on the outer edge of and is known for its meat on a Prishtina. stone. Butler owns Sabaja with his “My father insisted,” Zeka says. Kosovar partner, Etida Zeka, 27. A These days the couple does little more than a year ago, they a lot of their eating at the Sabaja began selling their beers, and have Beer House, the American-style since built a loyal following among pub near the city stadium, which Prishtina’s drinkers, myself includ- has close ties to the brewery (it’s ed. They’ve sold more than 55,000 part owned by Zeka’s family). It’s bottles (18,333 liters) - with the IPA a great place to try Sabaja’s entire as their biggest seller. The reason is beer range – IPA, Session, Saison, simple: their beer is great. Smoked Porter, and periodic sea- This summer’s Beerfest on Za- sonal beers – along with the best hir Pajaziti Square was especially burgers in town. heart-warming for Butler. While Sabaja won’t be chal- “So many people coming to- lenging Peja beer anytime soon, gether as a community – getting there are plans to roll out the beers drunk as a community – that was nationwide and outside Kosovo. pretty cool. You really saw Prishti- Meanwhile there’s talk of a retail na more or less at its best,” Butler store and another branch of the says. restaurant. In short, the owners say Kosovo is a tough market for Kosovo is ready for more Sabaja. just about any business, with alco- “The culture of beer is develop- hol being especially challenging, ing and has grown a lot since we since people don’t drink much. started,” Butler says. Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 11

PHOTO/ATDHE MULLA to take your burek to go. Destan ofers restaurant is a converted pre-war home, a more traditional styled burek that’s with stove heating in the winter and thin, flakey, and extremely oily. Prishtina garden seating in the summer. Expect Insight’s meat burek was full of flavor and handmade pasta, and a selection of fish cooked to perfection. and salads. Our advice is to ask the waiter LOCATION: Luan Haradinaj, next to Central for what’s available that day - you can Room. HOURS: Monday-Saturday, 7am- expect there to be at least two of menu 6pm. Out of country dining experiences specials. LOCATION: 13 Hil Mosi Street. HOURS: OUT OF COUNTRY Monday-Saturday, 12-4pm; 7pm-11pm. DINING EXPERIENCES Closed on Sundays. CONTACT: 038 516 473.

For your Thai fix: Filou Restaurant Taverna Greke - Filou ofers a well-priced Thai menu and Meze You Need to Try a tranquil atmosphere on Fehmi Agani Taverna Greke, on the road to Sunny Hill, Street. With ingredients from Bangkok does not have much of that over-the-top and Europe, Filou has an appealing menu Greek kitsch stereotypically expected that is full of interesting Thai food op- of Greek restaurants, like theatrical tions. The menu has 17 diferent plates. saganaki service or waiters exclaiming The most requested dishes are chicken “Opa!” On Prishtina Insight’s first three Satay, Spring Rolls, Chicken Tempura visits we only heard smooth jazz. Only on Powder, and Pad Thai. a recent evening did we hear actual Greek LOCATION: 27 Fehmi Agani Street. music. But it’s just as well. The food — the HOURS: Monday-Sunday, 8am-12am. meze in particular — is really good and CONTACT: 045 516 978. distinctive. Things got more serious the next day when Prishtina Insight delved Chinese Restaurant: into fried zucchini. It seemed to be the of- Go for the Black Fungus spring of potato chips, french fries - and The name Chinese Restaurant is pretty the vegetable that bore its name. In other self-explanatory. It’s the only Chinese words, it was great. restaurant in Prishtina, and perhaps LOCATION: 9 Eqrem Cabej (across from the 1 the country. It’s actually pretty good. Tetori Auditorium). HOURS: Monday-Satur- Standouts include shredded chicken, day, 7am-12am. CONTACT: 044 153 914/049 black mushrooms (unfortunately called 153 914 or visit facebook.com/tavernagreke. fungus) with beef, spinach with peanuts, and of course, spring rolls. The con- venient location in the centre is nice for a SEAFOOD quiet dinner or take-out. If you avoid the pricey seafood items, two people can eat Detari, Easily the there for under 20 euro. Best Fish Place in Town LOCATION: 17 Luan Haradinaj Street, The Detari Fish Market has been open for across from the police station. HOURS: several years on the outskirts of Prishtina SABAJA CRAFT BREWERY Monday-Saturday, 11am-10pm to 10 p.m. near the US Embassy, and recently This is where the magic happens. Check out Sunday, 12pm-10pm. CONTACT: 044 384 opened a restaurant in the same area. the brewery, buy the beers (20 euros for a 928/044 164 032. The rich menu of seafood pastas and case of 20 for regular oferings), and home- rizottos include Spaghetti with Frutti di brew lessons with prior arrangement. Himalayan Ghorka, a Hangover Mare, or choices between the usual fish LOCATION: On the road to Gjlian/Gracan- Hideaway available in this region: John Dory, Orada, ica, just after the American Hospital, in Tucked away in the Qafa neighborhood, Sea Bass and Sea Bream. Prishtina Prishtina’s Hajvalija neighborhood. the Himalayan Ghorka is a safe choice for Insight ordered a plate teeming with ca- HOURS: Call ahead. CONTACT: 049 550 222 when you want all your carbs at once, in lamari, a small portion of grilled salmon, or [email protected]. ONLINE: www. a quiet, unassuming, and dimly lighted lightly charred shrimp, and a whole sea facebook.com/SabajaCraftBrewer or Indian/Nepalese restaurant. This is the bass (levrek). The calamari were some of www.birrasabaja.com. most reliable location in Prishtina for the most tender around, lightly charred your naan, chicken tikka massala, momo, with a smoky grilled aftertaste, just like BEST PLACES TO DRINK SABAJA samosa and chai lassi fix, and they do the shrimp. The sea bass was tender Sabaja Beerhouse (See guide) takeaway as well. We suggest visiting for and light. We garnished it only with a Country House (Bernica e Eperme when you need comfort food and/or a lemon, but it would have been nice to village, of the road to Podjueve, www. quick hangover recovery. have a sauce or some additional flavors. facebook.com/pages/Country-House- LOCATION: 17 UCK Street, inside the “Qafa” The combined decor seemed unsure of Restaurant) mall. HOURS: Monday-Sunday, until 11pm. whether it wants to evoke the air of a CONTACT: 044 821 970. casual family dining spot or an elegant, Babaganush (See guide) upscale vibe that the food deserves. The Taverna Tirona (2 Korriku no. 8, of Antonella’s Place: Il Passatore meal for two, including a 7 euro bottle of Mother Teresa Blvd) Run by the warm and friendly Antonella, wine, cost 31 Euros without tip. Backgarden (Fehmi Agani 2, of an Italian transplant in Kosovo now LOCATION: Ferid Curri Street (Across from Mother Teresa Blvd) for many years, Il Passatore is a hidden Minimax), Arberia. HOURS: Monday-Sun- gem tucked away on Hil Mosi Street. The day, 9am-10pm. CONTACT: 049 262 231. 12 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight Cover

EDI SHUKRIU

Living history while uncovering it

By Jeta Xharra Shukriu laments that succes- sive governments made no efort Edi Shukriu shows her love for to preserve these baths, even in Prishtina by restoring and curat- the seventies and eighties when ing it. Shukriu, 63, is a writer and Kosovo was in a better economic archaeologist, and the only female situation. member of the Kosovo Academy “The Yugoslav government of Arts and Sciences. Though she never invested much in archaeol- was born in Prizren, she has lived ogy, and we don’t do that now ei- most of her life in Prishtina. ther – we have always lacked funds Shukriu is a sof-spoken wom- to do proper excavations,” she says. an – not the least because she loves Her second favorite place to visit to smoke. Her voice is deep and a in Prishtina is the archeological park bit cryptic – like she is unwrapping opposite the National Museum. a mystery even when she is ofer- “It is a very modest archeologi- ing you cofee in her ofce. cal park but when I go there and During the tumultuous 90s, look at some of these old stones Shukriu was an activist in the with fgures that speak of diferent peaceful movement of the Dem- rituals – it completely calms me ocratic League of Kosovo, LDK. down, I forget the mess of Prishtina Shukriu was married to the dissi- outside. I suggest you go and look dent Albanian nationalist Ukshin at the stone with the six-member Hoti, who disappeared in 1999 afer family.” spending 17 years in jail in Serbia Shukriu’s third favorite place is for his political activity. Together Ulpiana, about 10 km from Prishti- they had a daughter, Erleta, who na near Gracanica. It is seen as has also grown up to be a political the country’s most promising ar- activist. chaeological site, though proper Now Shukriu teaches archeol- excavations have begun relatively ogy in the University of Prishtina, recently. where she poses provocative Shukriu has models of laby- questions for her classes. She is rinth gardens that exist in the currently studying the pre-Illyrian world pinned to the wall in her of- “Goddess on the Throne,” the sym- fce and she believes that the may- bol of Prishtina, and has been ask- or of Prishtina should build such a ing her classes whether it is a man garden in Prishtina itself. or a woman. “Labyrinth gardens are known It is only natural that Shukriu’s to calm people down – you can favorite places are linked to ar- bring your kids there, leave them chaeology. by the playground, go for a walk in- “My favorite place to visit in side yourself and get lost a bit – only Prishtina are the remains of a to come back and find the world thermal baths – these are inside still out there. We are able to refect the premises of the Kosovo parlia- diferently afer getting ourselves ment, or more concretely in the lost in labyrinths – I believe in the back of the parliament, where its spiritual power of places like that parking lot is and where the new and not necessarily that historic annex has been built,” Shukriu places should ofer that power but says. “The fact is that there was we should strive to create places in never care about making these re- this city where we can just go out mains available for public access.” and refect.” Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 13

PHOTO/ATDHE MULLA street from Komiteti, Mezzeria is kind of Casa Rita brings the place where you plan to spend at least seaside to Prishtina a few hours drinking and sharing com- Fish is the bread and butter of Casa Rita, munal, tapas style dishes with company. with the menu ofering octopus, stingray, Prishtina Insight ordered the meze plate and catfish, rare on most Prishtina menus. first, with arrived with a generous serving Casa Rita’s fish comes from Ulcinj. During of cheese, smoked beef, cuts of suxhuk - a Prishtina Insight’s first visit to Casa Rita, local, dried cured sausage, olives, and we tried salmon carpaccio appetizer, apple. Then came the stufed peppers. which was excellent. The salmon was Mezzeria’s stufed peppers are worth perfectly fresh and salty, and rubbed with paying for - the peppers were properly aromatic spices and topped with a tuft roasted, and filled with creamy sheep’s of arugula. The octopus salad appetizer cheese and ricotta in a tava (an earthen- is also great. It was a large portion of ware pot used for this and other Albanian octopus, chopped tomatoes, potatoes, dishes). The stufed eggplant followed, lemons and onions covered in a sweet oil. also prepared in a tava, with ricotta Together the rather unconventional mix cheese and a chunky tomato sauce. The created the perfect dish with a hint of flavors blended well in the dish, and the sweetness. The spaghetti fruta di mare, eggplant was tender and tasty. Our bill in which has diced tomatoes, basil, shrimp total came to around 20 euros, including and octopus ofers the simple ingredients one shared bottle of water, one glass of of pure Mediterranean bliss. Casa Rita has grape raki, and a small tip. an elegant atmosphere that doesn’t make LOCATION: Fehmi Agani street 52/2, across you feel uncomfortable. Its serene setting the street from restaurant Komiteti. more than makes up for being a bit out of HOURS: Open Monday-Saturday. town.The prices are decent too: our dinner CONTACT: 045-663-665 or online at for two was a little under 25 euro. facebook.com/mezzeria. LOCATION: Dr. Shpetim Robaj Street, on the way to Germia Park. HOURS: Monday - Tifany’s, a Prishtina institution Sunday, 8:00 am - 11:00 pm. With an appreciation for meat, cream VISITING HISTORY CONTACT: 038 516 677. and a healthy dose of repetition, Tifany’s Many of Kosovo’s most treasured artifacts is a restaurant in Prishtina that never are still in Serbia, but there is a lot of history disappoints. The menu at Tifany’s is to see in and around Prishtina. TRADITIONAL not too extensive, and the insistence of EATING the servers on bringing particular dishes The Goddess on the Throne means that first time diners will not Now a symbol of Prishtina, the tiny (30cm Taverna N’14: realize that they can choose what they tall) Goddess on the Throne is believed to Excels at the classics want to eat. Meals begin with rounds of be a fertility talisman that is more than Tucked away down a road behind the fresh oven-baked bread that is crusty on 6,000 years old. Found in 1956 in what is to- KEK/KEDS building, Taverna N’14 is part the outside and flufy on the inside. For day the Kalabria neighborhood of Prishtina, of a big wooden house with bright lights a heavier meat experience, the grilled the statuette is housed in the National and a traditional feel. While there’s meats platter is a good choice. A sizeable Museum of Prishtina. nothing novel about traditional Albanian combination of chicken kebabs and decor or cooking in Prishtina, N’14 avoids pieces of veal, all grilled right in front of Thermal Baths the all-too-common trap of adulterating your eyes. A dish to order during lunch- behind Kosovo Parliament classic cuisine. Prishtina Insight ordered time is the veal soup. It is served in a huge Check out these baths, just nestled the qofte cooked that was swimming in old-fashioned tureen, and with chunks of nonchalantly in a parking lot behind a thick sauce consisting of kos. The qofte meat, vegetables and rice as it floats in Kosovo’s Parliament. arrived in a hot iron pot, along with a lid, a lightly seasoned broth. It is one of the which kept in the heat. The qofte were restaurant’s simplest dishes, and also Archaeological park opposite the flavorful, soft and well seasoned. We one of the tastiest. The lack of menu also National Museum also ordered the qofte cooked in tomato means a lack of pricing. Diners can never The little grassy park shows relics from sauce, which came with delicious chunks be absolutely certain of what a meal will ancient Kosovo, tombs from the Roman of sweet diced tomatoes. The service cost. However, Prishtina Insight finds that era, and a piece of the ornate Mosaic from was also excellent and our meals arrived it is rarely more than 10 euro per person, Gllamnik. Its just opposite the Kosovo shortly after one another. The meals including a glass of house wine. Museum, on the corner of Rruga Haxhi Zeka. were also a better price than expected. LOCATION: Of Fehmi Agani Street, behind The qofte was priced at 4 euro, and two the Croatian Embassy and Bukka Bar. Ulpiana people can get out of N’14 spending less HOURS: Monday-Saturday, 9am-11pm. Ulpiana, a Roman settlement just outside than 20 euro. The restaurant also has live Sunday, 6pm-11pm. CONTACT: 038 244 040. modern-day Gracanica, was a stopping Albanian music every week. point on the road from Constantinople to LOCATION: Ilaz Kodra, behind the KEK/KEDS A Quick Escape: Rome. Ulpiana was built and developed building. HOURS: Monday-Saturday, 7am- Shpija e Vjeter (Old House) in the first century C.E. When you visit you 12am. CONTACT: 038 556 665/045 676 067 With comfortable chairs arranged around can see a basilica, funerary rooms, and a or visit facebook.com/nekatermbedhjete. small wooden tables, Old House - or Shpija graveyard, in addition to some city walls. e Vjetër - at first glance looks just like any Mezzeria: Kosovar tapas done right of the other bars and restaurants lining Opened a few months ago across the Qamil Hoxha Street. Appearances in this 14 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight Cover

BAJRAM KINOLLI, AKA ‘KAFU’

Inspiration in Prishtina’s ‘beehive’

By Valerie Hopkins ent holes full of honey, I have to try them all. But also in lots of ways it Bajram Kinolli, better known as is inside, people are closed.” Kafu, is the frontman of Prishtina Another song, ‘Meet Your band Gipsy Groove, which plays Neighbor’ is a collaboration with a fusion of Roma, folk, reggae and two rappers who grew up in Ger- funk. Born in Gjakova in 1985, Kafu many but got deported back to played drums and rode Harley Da- Kosovo. “We are all living in close vidsons in Tirana before moving to quarters here, but we don’t know Prishtina in 2009. He found work each other. The song is an invita- with the Rolling Film Festival, got tion to meet me in a deep way. I involved in activism, met his wife, want to change the picture of peo- and started learning the Romani ple. I dont want anybody calling language and the Roma songs me a minority, in as far as I’m hu- that infuse his music. PI caught up man.” with Kafu in Sharra, behind Kafa Kinolli wants to remind people e Vogel, which he says is one of that there are important social jus- his favorite summer haunts. Kafu tice issues to think about as Prishti- splits his time between Prishtina na continues growing, and hopes and Novi Sad, where his wife lives people push for it to be inclusive. and works. “To be welcome in a society “Since I moved here, the city like in Pristina is hard --I know how is totally diferent. It has grown a much! An entire [Roma] neighbor- lot, and there is a great music and hood on Moravska Street was arts scene, but it shouldn’t be only forcibly removed (in 1999). This is Prishtina. What’s depressing is not a symbol of welcome, no mat- that all the other other cities are ter what kind of laws are on the totally dead, except for Prizren in books. Now they are living around the summer.” Prishtina, and more of them are He sees Prishtina as a place around Belgrade and Novi Sad, in where people are coming together very bad conditions. In Plemetina from all over the region. “I’m from there is no bus connection. Is this Gjakova, our band members are a capital city who wants to hide its from Mitrovica, Novi Sad, Croatia. poor people? Do they have rights in Nobody is from Prishtina but we a way that can only be read about?” came together to play music here … On the other hand, Kinolli ex- in that way we are truly a Prishtina presses joy at some positive de- band.” velopments on Prishtina’s streets, Kinolli says Prishtina’s pace of like new posts being installed on growth, and the tensions between the city sidewalks to prevent cars old and new have brought him tre- from parking on them. mendous inspiration. “The city is always changing, “Our entire first album is I can see the changes this week! basically what is happening in They are fnally making the side- Prishtina. One of our early songs is walks free! It’s great because I was ‘Beehive.’ It is because—I love this always so nervous before because place!—in many ways Prishtina is there were cars everywhere, I get like a beehive because there are depressed that it is a problem to so many different places, differ- walk or bike.” Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 15

PHOTO/ATDHE MULLA

case are deceiving, as the restaurant the Yugoslav era. On a nice day, the large COFFEE WITH KAFU … extends all the way into the back, and patio is the perfect place for a meal or a “These days if I’m in Prishtina, it’s usually only fills an old Ottoman-style house, with a drink. Inside, the abundance of dark wood for a few days so I have to spend the whole wrap-around terrace, managing to be cool radiates a nice homey feel. The menu day drinking so much cofee, it’s insane. I like in the summer and very cozy in the winter. is refreshingly limited. Steak and pasta drinking cofee at Dit e Nat (Page 9), Tingell The food is reliably good, and is definitely are ofered consistently, with specials Tangell, and Kafa e Vogel (Page 17) in the worth a try. The standards (pizzas, pastas, contingent upon Lali’s whims - which summer. On the weekend I like to get outside salads, omelets, and sandwiches) are all included lobster last summer. Prishtina of the city, places like Germia and Gracanica.” tasty and make Old House a good spot for Insight heartily recommends the salad. a lunch, or a leisurely weekend brunch. The It features spinach, juicy tomatoes, Tingell Tangell more traditional menu items are where white cheese and shredded beet in a You can tell Tingell, as it is afectionately Old House really excels. The restaurant rich balsamic vinaigrette. The salad was known by its clientele, is cool because of whips up fantastic traditional donuts nearly perfect, with an expressive beef its mismatched furniture, low lighting, and (llokuma), which are served either with flavour and a touch of smokiness to sketches on the wall. Come to Tingell to ajvar and a creamy dip, or with honey boot. We can’t praise the steak enough mingle with people with funky hairstyles and plum jam (2-4 euro). Meat lovers will either. Beautifully seared, the meat was and vintage clothes, and drink a few laidback appreciate the range of beef, veal, and slightly blackened on the outside and beers. Tingell manages to be utterly hip and chicken options. The chicken is reliably pink and juicy inside. While the steak completely unpretentious at the same time. tender, and rarely dry, while the beefsteak alone is reason to check out Te Lali, the It’s a great place to listen to eclectic music, is not terribly impressive, and perhaps not atmosphere adds a lot, too. It’s casual especially when there is an event on. worth the 7 to 9 euro. with little fuss. Absent are the white ta- LOCATION: It’s complicated to explain. In LOCATION: Qamil Hoxha Street Nr. 9, next ble clothes or bow-tied waiters, while the the series of park lots bounded by apart- to Cantina AM/PM. HOURS: Monday-Sun- food is refined. The restaurant manages ments in the center. Enter near EULEX po- day, 8am-12am. CONTACT: Visit facebook. to hit the sweet spot of casual gourmet. lice headquarters (Former UNMIK HQ) or com/shpijaevjeter. In Prishtina, that’s a rare find. The whole the Photo Nesha sign on Mother Teresa. meal totalled €21.50, and included a beer, Best to ask someone who knows. If it’s not broke, mineral water and one cofee. The priciest HOURS: Generally open daily, from morn- don’t fix it: Tradita item, the steak, was €10. While not cheap, ing until late. Tradita occupies an old house in Prishti- beef that good is hard to come by. CONTACT: na’s centre. The restaurant as traditional LOCATION: On a side street near the Qen- www.facebook.com/tingelltangell. as its name and fills a much-needed dra Tregtare (Trade Center) in Sunny Hill. void in restaurants focusing on simple, HOURS: Monday-Saturday, 8am to old-time Albanian food in all of its glory. 10:30pm, Sunday, 12pm-8pm. The menu at Tradita is vast, covering traditional breads and appetizers, a wide Good Beer, Good Food, Good selection of tavas, grilled meats, and sal- Service: Sabaja Beer House ads. They also ofer lamb, kid goat, and Sabaja Beer House, the restaurant incar- baked “village chicken” to order for larger nation of Prishtina’s only microbrewery, groups - an appealing prospect. Prishtina Sabaja, is a must for their beer - India Pale Insight’s portion of traditional pie with Ale, Session Pale Ale, Smoked Porter, spinach (3 euro) was carefully presented Amber Ale, and Belgian Style Saison on a wooden board, alongside pleasantly - with classic American fare. Fred, the sharp cheese and a bowl of fresh creamy manager of this warm and welcoming yogurt. The bread itself was buttery, pub, describes the motto of Sabaja Beer fresh, and much flufy. Prishtina Insight House as “Good Beer, Good Food, and also tried a Gjakova tava (7 euro), which Good Service.” With the beer flowing free- arrived still bubbling from the oven. The ly, waiters attentive to your every need, beef was tender, the sauce was succulent and with down home American food but not too salty, and was flavored with favorites such as Bufalo wings, chili, BBQ just the right amount of tomato and pep- ribs, grilled chicken, bacon cheeseburgers per. Tradita is be the perfect restaurant and French fries, Sabaja definitely lives for those craving a traditional village up to their motto. meal, but be aware that you will still pay LOCATION: Behind Prishtina Stadium, city prices (mains 5 – 10 euro). right next door to the Red Cross. HOURS: LOCATION: Parking lot behind Tingell Monday-Sunday, 8am-12am. CONTACT: Tangell. HOURS: Open daily, 8am to 049 582 000, also visit sabajadrsbeer- midnight. CONTACT: 045 282 222 or visit house. com or birrasabaja.com. facebook.com/restaurant.tradita. Miqt Taverna, Lunch Dishes Like Mom Makes Them CASUAL DINING Advertised as a “traditional” restaurant, Miqt Taverna feels less strictly tradition- Your Neighborhood al, and more cozy and homey, like eating Gourmet Bistro: Te Lali in someone’s very well decorated dining Te Lali - which means At Lali’s - feels room. The restaurant is an ofshoot of right at home in a green corner of Sunny the ever-popular Miqt bar, and seems to HIll, among low-rise apartments from rival the appeal of its boozier relative. 16 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight

The food is very reasonably priced, and per were grilled and then assembled into options. From creative salads to several the menu feels familiar for Prishtina: a small stacks anointed with olive oil and steaks, the menu has a little something standard selection of salads and some balsamic. The flavor of each vegetable for everyone. The restaurant seems to bar food including chicken tenders (3 stood out, while still contributing to the draw in many tourists due to its ideal euro), potato skins (2 euro) and a particu- toothsome chorus. The ramsteak we also location and appearance. While eating larly appetizing looking cold meze platter ordered was certainly serviceable cooked dinner, I heard diferent languages all that I spied at the next table. Most of the as per our request, but it was neverthe- around me and our waiter spoke English main courses are meat-based standards. less a bit dry and tough, which was not fluently. Central Room ofers a refreshing The highlights of the menu are definitely worth the 7.50 euro. Above all, Hani 2 take on European cuisine especially here the daily specials. Miqt Taverna ofers a Roberteve left us with a good feeling in Kosovo. Portions are a good size. It’s daily hot main (2.5 euro), a daily soup (1.5 even if the food wasn’t pitch-perfect. It one of the better fine dining options here euro), and a daily stew (2 euro). These feels like it belongs here, and it’s a place in Prishtina. Desserts are baked in the dishes are mostly adapted from the one that Prishtina Insight will surely return to. restaurant and the tiramisu is absolutely of the owners’ mothers home recipes, LOCATION: Zahir Pajaziti Square. HOURS: decadent. and indeed they all taste like something Monday-Saturday, 9am-11:45. LOCATION: 63 Garibaldi Street, Pejton that you’d be served at a friend’s home. CONTACT: 044 112 609 or visit facebook. neighborhood. HOURS: Monday-Friday, It’s small enough to work for a more com/hanii2robertve. 7am-12am. Saturday-Sunday, 8am- intimate meal, but would also be a good 12:00am. CONTACT: 044 810 000. place to begin a weekend night out with a group of friends. FINE DINING Illiria Terrace: Fine dining on the LOCATION: Right of Mother Theresa Boule- boulevard vard, next to Foto Nesha. HOURS: Open Purobar: Fancy Food Mother Teresa Boulevard isn’t known Monday-Saturday. CONTACT: 045 999 957 for Non-Fancy People for its compelling eating and drinking or visit facebook.com/miqt.taverna. Sometimes it feels nearly impossible options. But as I sat table side in the to get an elegant meal without feeling shadow of the Swiss Diamond hotel, I was The place for your next date: embarrassed in Prishtina. There are the fixated on the Negroni cocktail that was De Rada bow-tied waiters, white table clothes, among the best I’ve had in this city. This De Rada still simple, elegant and great. and wine glasses large enough to ac- being the Iliria Terrace, the luxury hotel’s The food is all carefully prepared and commodate entire bottles. Now, if only most downmarket eating and drinking carefully plated, the ingredients clearly the food could be prepared with such venue, the cocktail did come with a price: fresh and of particularly high quality. efort. But Purobar, another fancy-food 6 euro and change. The food options also The restaurant boasts a full bar, with haven, is an ofshoot brasserie that feels caught my attention, especially the Swiss bartenders who know how to mix a down to earth while serving delicious, Diamond Sandwich, and its promise of decent cocktail, as well as an extensive classy fare. It has a bit of exposed brick, veal and peanut butter. But for all its lack wine list with regional options, as well as dim lighting and spare but elegant of afordability — this sandwich coming bottles from Italy and France. The menu modern decor. Having a meal there feels in at a whopping 4 euro — the hotel’s is simple and short – five to seven ap- normal, and that’s a rare thing among kitchen knows how to prepare good petizers that rotate out every week or so, the nicer restaurants here. The menu is a food. With two sandwiches and two Coke and the same number of entrees, which happy medium between upmarket and Zeros (marked up to 1.50 euro apiece), we range from pastas to more carnivorous value, ofering everything from a 3 euro escaped the Iliria Terrace for 10.50 euro, options. De Rada aims for simple dishes burger to a 10 euro steak, with plenty which is a lot to spend in Kosovo on lunch. crafted expertly from few ingredients. in between. The beef tenderloin with Iliria Terrace, like the hotel’s main restau- Try the warm mushrooms and gorgonzola ratatouille (9.50 euro) was nearly tender rant, Restaurant Iliria, and the hotel as appetizer and seared vegetable and enough to be cut with a fork. The meat whole, is selling an escape. The escape is polenta to start, and the house-made was seasoned just enough to bring the one of luxury and proper execution that vegetarian fettuccine, or the steak and flavors to life. The ratatouille added a bit is lacking across the service industry in vegetable penne as an entree. You won’t of acidity and smokiness, which brought Kosovo. All of this comes at a price – and be disappointed. it all together. Luckily, we still had room that’s not for everyone. LOCATION: 50 UCK Street. HOURS: Monday- for the warm apple strudel, aptly paired LOCATION: Mother Theresa Boulevard Saturday, 8am-12am. CONTACT: 038 222 622. with cinnamon ice cream. While some (at the Swiss Diamond Hotel). HOURS: people undoubtedly love the fancy Monday-Sunday, 8am-12am. Hani 2 Robertve - Still Cool, restaurant experience, those who want Contact: 038 220 000. and Still Delicious elegant food without too much ceremony During the 1990s, Hani 2 Roberteve, or or annoyance will not be disappointed at the Inn of Two Roberts, was the kind of Purobar. NIGHT LIFE AND place where you could rub shoulders LOCATION: 3/1 Fehmi Agani. HOURS: HANGOUT SPOTS with Prishtina’s intelligentsia and take Monday-Saturday, 11am-11pm. in the works of local artists. These days CONTACT: 049 875 875 or visit facebook. Miqt: The place for your next Hani 2 Roberteve seems to be less of a com/purobar. weekend bender restaurant and more of a tapas bar. The MIQT is Albanian for “friends,” an tapas menu has 15 items that are priced Central Room, a Place appropriate name for this tiny bar on from 1 for olives to 2.50 euro for mussels. for Everybody Prishtina’s “Kafet e Rakise” street. An Standout items include hummus and Central Room is a chic place to have unofcial center of the Strong Party, Miqt cheese that are cooked on the grill and dinner. It’s a little brown house covered has a cozy and fun atmosphere, good for their house wine from Slovenia. The in bright white lights. Inside there are a drink after work and ideal for a drinking antipasto Prishtina Insight ordered dark wooden tables, modern furniture, marathon. proved to be a pleasant surprise. Slices of and vibrant artwork. The sophisticated LOCATION: 2 Korrik Street, of Mother tomato, eggplant, zucchini and red pep- menu had a vast amount of flavorful Teresa Boulevard. HOURS: Open daily. Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 17

CONTACT: 049 222 696 or visit facebook. Sweaty Dancing and a Disco Ball: desserts are pricier than the average ca- com/miqt.net 13 Rooftop fes, for example a cafe latte is 2.30 euro, more than double the price it is at most Meet up here: Kafa e Vogel 13 Rooftop is located on the 13th floor of cafes, a trip to Illy is well worth it. Kafa e Vogel has a friendly atmosphere the notorious and formerly glorious Grand LOCATION: Next to Prince Cafe, Near RTV and an incredibly artistic spirit. It was the Hotel — a particularly unusual but exciting and Sheshi 21. HOURS: Monday-Sunday, first bar that gave a name to the whole setting. The wraparound windows ofering 7am-12am. CONTACT: 045 660 925 or visit neighborhood. The bar has a unique style. impressive views of all sides of Prishtina facebook.com/illy.prishtina. There are handmade lamps on the wall, are more than enough of a draw to take colored stone decorating the ground and you to the club at least once. The ambience Prishtina’s Cofee Chain: Cofee- quirky pictures painted by children that will either convince you to make numer- shop Company cover the walls. It’s a great place to spend ous return trips, or have you running in the There’s no shortage of cofee in Prishtina. time with some friends. Kafa e Vogel is opposite direction once you’ve snapped a For better or worse, international cofee also an ideal place to get lost in a novel. few pictures. This is a club that ofers Grey chains like Starbucks and Costa have yet Winter months are magical and inviting, Goose bottle service and features neon to land in the macchiato country, with especially when you’re sipping cofee flashing lights in every possible color. The DJ one notable exception. Vienna-based near the warm fireplace. will thump hits until the break of dawn, and Cofeeshop Company has three outposts LOCATION: Fehmi Agani street, in front of your fellow club-goers will be dancing right in Prishtina and they serve some of the Croatian Embassy. HOURS: Open daily, along. This is the place to be if you’re in the best cofee in town. With two located at 8am-12am. CONTACT: 045 670 008/044 mood for sweaty dancing, thumpin’ beats, the Albi Mall and another located at the 000 000 or visit kafaevogel.com. a well-dressed crowd and a disco ball. smaller Albi Center, ofer a wide assort- LOCATION: Grand Hotel, 13th floor. ment of hot and cold alternatives to the The vivid colors of Mhz Hours: Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, Prishtina macchiato. A big selling point is Within the wide spectrum of colors,you 9:30pm-4am. CONTACT: 049 698 698 or the cofee itself. Cofeeshop Company’s will find yourself amazed by the music, visit facebook.com/pages/13-Rooftop. beans are 100 percent Arabica, which company of good people and constantly tends to be more expressive and less surprised by the interior design. In 2000, Take Shelter under the White Tree bitter than the beans most cafes here the first Mhz opened and it was the most The White Tree cafe has been styled use, which generally include a significant popular club at the time. With a new loca- to look like a beach bar, with dominant amount of the cheaper Robusta beans. tion, the owner is living up to its legacy. white wood paneling, floors lined with LOCATION: Albi Mall, ground floor and fourth The club has two separate floors that pebbles, a hammock and a pair of floor. (Second location at the Albi Center each have diferent music, themes and wooden beach chairs, and in the industrial zone, near Fushe Kosove). designs. Mhz Bar Klub is definitely a place cozy wraparound couches on the two CONTACT: Visit cofeeshopcompany.com. to discover, especially during winter time. adjacent sides of the bar. Visitors can Vivid colors , selected soul music and choose between sitting in the cafe area welcoming people will cheer you up on when you enter, or on the veranda of the those grey and cold winter days. White Tree hostel on the right and its LOCATION: Luan Haradinaj Street at Kino overlooking balcony. The typical cafe ABC-1. HOURS: Wednesday-Saturday, menu is served once the doors open at 11pm-4am. CONTACT: 049 660 066 or visit 8am, and it ofers a relaxed alternative sprayclub.com. for Pejton’s lunch break target group. Al- coholic drinks are served in the afternoon, Last stop of the night: Te Xhoni but stop at 11pm on Wednesdays, Fridays Te Xhoni is one of those Prishtina institu- and Saturdays when the Creme de la tions that people tend to forget about. Creme is open. Unlike Creme, the White The small, cozy bar is something right out Tree Cafe ofers local beer on tap. Hostel of the 60s, with leather lining the walls, residents can mingle with the visitors of and an impressive collection of vinyls the cafe, since both share the same yard, kept behind the bar. The bartenders and the reception is to the right of the bar. rotate through their music options every LOCATION: 15 Mujo Ulqinaku Street, Num- night, but you won’t be disappointed by ber 15, behind Creme de la Creme. HOURS: their selection of rock ’n’ roll, jazz, soul, Monday-Sunday, 8am-11pm. CONTACT: and other classic favorites. In my experi- 049 166 777 or visit whitetreehostel.com. ence, Xhoni’s is not the best way to start a night, but heading there in the wee hours for one (or two, or three) is one of the FANCY COFFEE better ways to end a long night out. The cozy bar is definitely more of a wintery High Quality Cafeine Fix at Illy spot, and it gets quite crowded, so expect Illy ofers quality cofee in an elegant to be overheated, and don’t expect to atmosphere. With modern decor and find a seat. Xhoni’s serves the standard window paneled walls, the cafe feels as selection of Peja and a few other beers, though you’ve left Prishtina for a few some wine, and some liquor. hours. Illy ofers a wide variety of deli- LOCATION: Rexhep Mala street, unmarked cious desserts that are not common in door next to Allegro Restaurant. HOURS: Kosovo. Some desserts include the apple 8pm-3am, closed Sundays. crumb cake, walnut filled brownies, and CONTACT: 044 750 720. an exquisite tiramisu layered over Plazma cookies. They also have lunch and dinner options. While Illy’s cofee options and 18 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight

LOCATIONS: Several locations in Prishtina, chocolate cake topped with an equally GET HEALTHY including Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Lam 1, near thick layer of a mysterious tan cream full the new Municipality building, Dragodan. of nuts. But the young man promised Babaghanoush Go their website for more locations. that he would pay for this cake if we Meat may be king in Kosovo, but it’s CONTACT: Visit facebook.com/diambemar- didn’t like it. We devoured every last bite. nowhere to be found at Prishtina’s only kets or diambe.com. www.diambe.com. The chocolate cake was moist and just vegetarian restaurant, Babaghanoush. flufy enough. And the creamy layer was Falafel, salads and meze are fresh and Pronto: Stock your kitchen something magnificent. It was basically delicious. Tucked away near the Grand restaurant-style a luxurious compound of various nut but- Hotel, it also ofers a tranquil hideaway If you have been looking for jalapenos, ters and chocolate. The classic tres leches from the loud city center. Another plus: pine nuts, a superb selection of Italian we had tasted as if at least all three milks the ample selection of Scotch and Irish wines, limoncello, curry, peppercorns, are there. We were split on the Rovani - whisky. bay leaves, oregano, tortellini and other something we’d never seen before. It was LOCATION: Follow the small road to the pastas, prosciutto, mozzarella, pesto, a sponge cake soaked in syrup. And were left of Metro Cafe (across from the Grand Worcester sauce, balsamic vinegar, and all couldn’t agree on whether it was too Hotel) and take your first right. sorts of other food products, then Pronto, sweet. Definitely worth trying. HOURS: Monday-Saturday, 4pm-late. a bulk food store that supplies local res- LOCATION: Agim Ramadani 18-3 (base- CONTACT: 049 886 214 taurants, is the place for you. Even though ment level, beneath Fisi Gold). HOURS: the store will win few design awards, it is Monday-Saturday, 8am-8pm. CONTACT: Connect, Relax and loaded with plenty of imported Italian and 049 333 11/044 410 840 or visit facebook. Work Out at Ne Yoga German products. The main drawback is com/jaracake. One of Prishtina’s largest yoga studios, Ne that these food products are only sold in Yoga ofers a much needed oasis of calm bulk, so either you better be ready to eat, and concentration in the capital’s noise or you should arrange to buy as a group and crowds. Classes are only ofered on and divide your purchases. Tuesdays and Thursdays, as well as Sun LOCATION: Behind the Albi Mall in Veternik. Salutation yoga sessions at Germia Park. Contact: 044 137 768/038 137 768, or Real yoga practitioners will appreciate write to [email protected]. the studio’s emphasis on timeliness and quiet during classes, and special monthly workshops provide a great opportunity to get your friends involved. DESSERT LOCATION: Near Prince Cafe House, call for exact location. HOURS: Monday/Wednes- The sweets shop you remember as day, 7-8pm, Tuesday/Thursday, 6-7pm. a kid: Embeltore Rinia CONTACT: 049 293 193 or visit nyoga.net. Embeltore Rinia is a traditional little ice cream shop here in Prishtina. Besides the Fresh Greens at the New Green key ice cream flavor options, there are Market (Tregu i Ri i Gjelbert) more intriguing options like pineapple. The closest thing Prishtina has to a The ice cream was smooth, creamy and perfect supermarket, Tregu i Ri i Gjelbert not too sweet. Among their sweets are has just about everything going for it. classic Albanian desserts like shampite, The biggest draw is the large selection tollumba and boema. While you can of quality produce, which is consistently get tres leches at almost any cafe or the freshest that Prishtina Insight has restaurant in Prishtina, Embeltore seen at any market in town. In addition to Rinia’s tre leches was decadent, creamy typical fruits and vegetables, the market and contained the perfect amount of has more exotic items like avocados, caramel. They also make their own mangoes and coconuts, as well as a homemade lemonade and grape juice. It’s comprehensive selection of fresh herbs. in a convenient location in Dardania, sur- Tregu i Ri i Gjelbert is also a full service rounded by small boutiques and stores. supermarket, with a full selection of typi- It’s a nice stop for some dessert and ice cal groceries and a butcher. cream especially now that the weather LOCATION: Trade Center (Qendra Tregtare), has been warmer. Sunny Hill. HOURS: Monday-Sunday, LOCATION: In Kurrizi, Dardania's under- 7am-11pm. CONTACT: 049 309 030 or visit ground thoroughfare. facebook.com/treguiri.

Diambe: Rotating hard to find goods Jara Cake, Calling All Sweet Tooths Very obviously inspired - both visually It’s easy to get jaded when it comes to and in concept - by the international su- sweets in Prishtina. Most stuf looks far permarket chain Aldi, Diambe’s no-frills better than it tastes. Unfortunately, far discount stores stock a small selection of too many things are blindingly sweet groceries and small household items. The and taste of things like industrial-grade stock tends to rotate, but that’s part of cooking cream. But the newly opened the fun. Prishtina Insight recently bought Jara Cake is a diferent story. The friendly a 5-kilogram bag of sea salt for 75 cents. young man behind the counter steered us Until recently, it was also possible to buy toward the Torta Roche. We were suspi- bags of German oats for under 1 euro. cious at first, as it consisted of a layer of 22 August 30-September 12, 2013 Prishtina Insight Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 19

Four stars: Perfection Three stars: Superb Two Stars: Good One Star: Just OK No Star: Don’t Bother SUPERB piguide BabaGhanoush makes going veg easy

By Hana Marku Located on a quiet side street right beside the Ginger music and Three words best describe Prishtina’s bookstore, BabaGhanoush’s vibe only vegetarian restaurant: understat- is young and unpretentious. The ed, relaxed and tasty. A pres- interior has a vaguely retro ence in the capital’s restaurant appeal, with its mismatched scene for the past year and a chairs, soft lighting, funky half, BabaGhanoush’s combi- EAT artwork and eclectic book col- nation of salads, meze plates, lection (French picture books falafels, soups and stews are a unique of Soviet Russia sitting side by side ofering in the meat-heavy culture of with German guidebooks). During Fresh, flavourful Kosovar cuisine. the summer this is definitely a great mezze without The restaurant is currently only a place to stop by for a bite after work, the meat at BabaGhanoush. dinner afair, as the doors open every or a first date in the evening. day at 4pm The meze plate is a good A big part of BabaGhanoush’s cli- HOT: Fresh and zesty fare that place to start. It features a variety of entele is made of Kosovo’s interna- doesn’t make you miss the meat, cool, dips (ajvar, hummus, carrot, and baba tional population, a testament to the laid-back atmosphere. ganoush), peeled red peppers, olives, fact that vegetarianism has yet to es- NOT: Run-of-the mill white bread, white cheese, and a side of lightly toast- tablish a foothold amongst Kosovo’s no breakfast or lunch options. ed sliced bread. The seasonal dishes foodies. With better bread served LOCATION: Immediately behind are a special treat, featuring dishes during meals and the introduction of Metro cafe, beside Ginger music and 24 AND THERE’S SO MUCH MORE such as a zesty bean salad in the sum- main dishes, Baba Ganoush would be bookstore. mer, and a hearty stew in the winter. beyond reproach. Its prices are rea- HOURS: 4pm daily, until late. The dessert oferings are scarce, so be sonable, with 20 euros two people 049 88 62 92 sure to ask for their lemon poppyseed can eat a meze plate, two salads, and 049 88 62 14 cake immediately afer dinner. have two drinks. Takeout available

EAT DRINK EDS SHOP

> Located right beside Prishtina’s train > Head over to the recently opened One year ago we launched our guide to Prishtina, PI Guide, as part of the SHALLTER KASHI & SONS PRODUKTE USHQIMORE SHTEPIAKE station, Shallter is a great stop for beer lovers, stocking Kashi & Sons for handmade, quirky, and custom-made > Homemade Food Products). Food like your Albanian A foreign beers impossible to find elsewhere in Kosovo, as C household items. Located on Emin Duraku street grandmother makes it. This little specialty store near well as local favorites. Under new management, Shallter near Sami Frasheri high school, Kashi & Sons is at the Meto Bajraktari elementary school sells seasonal has plans to expand and bring back their legendary the forefront of Prishtina’s budding arts and crafts goods with natural ingredients. An music nights. Location: Rruga e Tiranes street, at movement. Designer Gezim Ramizi had been making initiative of local women from Prishtina’s train station. Hours: 4pm until late. handmade products for over seven years, transform- D Mitrovica, the storefront is part of an redesign of the newspaper. With 24 editions behind us, we’re looking Find out more: facebook.com/shallter ing items as diverse as lamps, mirrors, phone holders, ongoing project to encourage local jewelry, and clocks. Stop by his studio to purchase some food production. If you’re a fan of GINGER MUSIC AND BOOKS > After having of his ready-made products, or discuss the item you ajvar, pickled goods, and jams, head over to Produkte changed several locations over the years, the latest want custom made. Location: 3 Emin Duraku street, Ushqimore Shtepiake to find out what the incarnation of Ginger Music and Books seems to have near Sami Frasheri high school. Hours: Open stores owners have prepared. Loca- B found a home beside vegetarian restaurant BabaGa- daily. Find out more: facebook.com/ tion: Lidhja e Prizrenit street, noush. Lovers of the unconventional and alternative kashigiftshop close to the Meto Bajraktari forward to uncovering the best spots in Prishtina in the next 24. film and music have plenty of CDs and DVDs to choose elementary school. from. Location: The first side street of Johan V. Hahn, Hours: Open daily. immediately behind Metro Cafe. Hours: Open daily. Find out more: facebook. Find out more: No Facebook page or website for com/produkte.u.shtepiake Ginger Music and Books, we advise you to check it out FYI and browse in person. Thanks for your support!

01 Pallet Lounge WHERE Pallet lounge is an newly opened, exquisite cafe restaurant that ofers TO PICK UP a variety of multicultural dishes and drinks. It is located right across the AUK University in the outskirts PRISHTINA of the city, surrounded by nature. Gërmia Road (across AUK) +386 INSIGHT (0)49 880-777 palletlounge@ gmail.com facebook.com/Pallet Hotel Prishtina 06 Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charm- Lounge Papillon Bistro Bar ing guest rooms and suites are 02 Papillon ofers more than 60 types reminiscent of a small hotel in of wines from France, Italy, Spain, the European tradition. The hotel and Kosovo with great prices and ofers free, fast wifi internet, com- delicious dishes. You can also try plimentary breakfast, conference diferent types of local or interna- room, swimming pool, sauna and tional beers. Mother Teresa Str. Nr. laundry service. Hotel Prishtina, 51 A [email protected] St. Vaso Pasha nr. 20, +381 38 / 044 103 310 22 32 84. Hotel AFA 03 Pizza Napoli Located in a quiet neighbourhood 07 A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. just outside the city centre, Hotel After ten years of making pizza Afa can guarantee guests a peace- in Napoli, and with only love to ful night while being within walking blame, Fatmir, the head chef, distance of all the action. Rooms returned to Prishtina. His pizzas, start at 45 euro for a single, and made in a woodburn stove, are luxury rooms and apartments are definitely genuine napolitanas. available. The hotel’s rooms are Fatmir also has several delicious well appointed and comfortable. pastas on ofer, a true joy for the 15, Rr Ali Kelmendi, Sunny Hill, taste buds. Pizzeria Napoli of Prishtina +381 38/225 226 www. Luan Haradinaj, opposite hotelafa.com Newborn. 044/194-710. 049/194-710

04 Hotel Gracanica A place to relax in the calm and clean air of the countryside, just 15 minute sfrom Prishtina city center, 500 m from the center of Gracanica and its UNESCO World Heritage monastery and a short walk to the archeological site of Ulpiana. The boutique hotel 07 combines contemporary architec- ture with traditional elements to create a unique atmosphere that will make you feel at home. +381 06 (0)38 729 888 (landline) +386 02 (0)49 764 000 03 [email protected] www.hotelgracanica.com www.facebook.com/HotelGra- canica

04 20 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight

DokuFest takes stand as govt threatens cinema

he late artist Andy Warhol wrote in his 1975 book, “The Philosophy of Andy War- hol”: “They always say time changes things. But you ac- Ttually have to change them yourself.” The International Documentary and Short Film Festival - DokuFest has grown into one of the brightest beacons for inter- national flmmakers the world over. This year’s edition had a very specifc theme, expressed with the taglines: “Change, Don’t Hide.” And, “Change it yourself.” Warhol would have been extraordinar- ily pleased. Change sometimes happens quite quickly. There was a rapid and immediate call and response that directly illustrated the growing infuence of DokuFest. At the opening ceremonies for the festival’s 13th edition on Aug. 16, Artistic Director Veton Nurkollari explained to the audience that Change was in the air during the 13th edition of DokuFest. there were plans afoot for the Kino Bahce, where they were gathered, to be privatized. pressure on the government to keep it as “I’d like to encourage you to join us a cherished place of national interest for PAMELA on our journey of change, a journey we its historic and cultural value. COHN started so passionately 12 years ago in Just nine days later at the closing the garden of a beautiful open-air cin- ceremonies last Sunday, there was a re- ema, that same cinema that is now being sponse. Oddly, it came from the Prime threatened with demolition,” Nurkollari Minister of Albania, Edi Rama, instead of of international nonfction cinema and said. “We simply cannot and will not ac- that of Kosovo’s own PM, Hashim Thaci. short flm work to Kosovo? It has very cept losing a place responsible for the Rama told the packed crowd that Kino much to do with the export and dissemi- birth of DokuFest.” The opening flm this Bahce would, indeed, be safe from pri- nation of Kosovo’s own burgeoning flm year was called “Everyday Rebellion.” vatization and would be protected as a landscape, a collective push to give the In Kosovo, as has been seen many cultural heritage site, placed back in the talented filmmakers that reside within times before, privatization has come to safekeeping of the community that has Kosovo exposure to the rest of the world. mean the destruction of a precious re- single-handedly kept it going with no sup- As a flm programmer there, I can say that source in exchange for an unnecessary port whatsoever, maintaining a safe ha- the quality, cinematic excellence and sto- eyesore, rarely beneftting the communi- ven for flm screenings, live music shows, rytelling breadth of Kosovar flmmakers ty it is supposed to serve. Would the Kino and cultural events for the families of improves annually and this country has that sits in the city center be turned into Prizren. Sufce to say, the applause and much to ofer through its emerging artis- another parking lot, another shopping cheers that greeted this announcement tic talents. mall? No one knew. were loud and prolonged. As well, there is a desire on the part What was acknowledged, however, And what does all this have to do with of the DokuFest organisation to nurture was that the organisers of DokuFest flm? What does it have to do with the fes- that talent – starting with programs for hoped that they could maintain enough tival’s continuing push to bring the best high schoolers and university students Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 21

PHOTOS/DOKUFEST

In Kosovo, as has been seen many times before, privatization has come to mean the destruc- tion of a precious resource in exchange for an unnecessary eyesore, rarely benefitting the community it is supposed to serve. Would the Kino that sits in the city center be turned into another parking lot, another shopping mall? No one knew. that provide resources and platforms to teach, instruct and expose the young peo- ple of this young nation to work towards a career in the arts and media through practical workshops, master classes and casual social meetings with renowned international guests during the festival’s run. Afer all, it is the only time the rest of the world comes to Kosovo’s door.

Pamela Cohn is an American filmmaker, media producer, curator and freelance arts journalist based in Germany and Kosovo. She is an associate programmer for DokuFest. 22 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight Prishtina Insight August 29-September 11, 2014 23 Opinion Send us your thoughts to [email protected]. Kosovo is sleepwalking into the Islamists’s arms

Recent horrifc images of a Kosovo Alba- neighbors. Occasionally, these imams nian with bloody hands, holding a knife engaged in voodoo-like healing practices MIKRA and apparently beheading a blindfolded with patients aficted with mental issues. KRASNIQI man somewhere in Syria or Iraq spread But these were relatively harmless belief like wildfre over the internet and shook systems with roots in witchcraf that had Albanians to the core. The monstrosity nothing to do with turning faith into a and savagery of this act is so disturbing hateful and murderous ideology. speech is the most sacred value of de- that even writing about it is stomach-turn- By contrast, over the last decade, Ko- mocracy and it should be protected. ing. While it has been known for a while sovo’s religious landscape has been to- But Kosovo, especially Muslim Kosovo, that a group of young men from Kosovo tally transformed with mosques popping should not confuse free speech with travelled to Syria and Iraq to participate up with dizzying speed, sometimes two the insidious language of preaching an in jihadist fghting, the gruesome images per village and in Wahhabi-style. Young extreme form of Islam in mosques. It’s brought home a nightmarish reality: For bearded, strange-looking men speak in almost laughable to link the problem the frst time, the newest country of Eu- foreign tongues in a fire-brand type of of the radicalization of youth with free rope was staring at its own creation, little preaching that is both un-Albanian and speech. It’s a shameful failure of Koso- creations that had mutated into monsters offensive. What is this alien institution, vo’s institutions to do their work and stop - who had turned their world upside down which has crept into our society pushing infltration of extremists in the country. and violated the very meaning of being out all the fundamental values and the Millions of dollars have been funneled Albanian. Sons of Kosovo were now tak- religious tolerance that Albanians have through thinly disguised Islamist NGOs ing lives of others in the most barbaric held dear for so long? Where did the de- and charities to build mosques and infu- form in the name of some religion and mand for Saudi-style mosques come ence large swaths of the younger genera- god they discovered during the mutation from? Why did this nation allow its cultur- tion. Orphanages have been built where period of the last 15 years. al heritage, like the Orthodox Church in children as young as fve are inundated What happened? How could a group my neighborhood, to be destroyed while with religious teachings. CDs with ser- of innocent boys who grew up like major- allowing a mosque with its alien architec- mons from religious figures from Saudi ity of Kosovar boys - watching football, ture to rise up just a mile down the road on Arabia and elsewhere have been distrib- firting, loving cars, and oblivious to the the banks of the river? uted in high schools. Mosques overfow existence of violent jihad during their These are questions that every Ko- with youthful prayers, occupying the boyhood - turn into vicious killers on sovo Albanian parent, wife, husband, sidewalks while the nation sits by and behalf of one of the most savage terror- brother, sister, cousin and friend, should watches them, while some of them take ist groups that the world has ever seen? ask. These are existential questions that things to the limit and quietly slip through Where were their families? Where was strike to the core of what this nation is. It’s the borders to join brutal organizations the nation that prides and defines itself an opportune moment, not only for the that kill in the name of Allah. by its youth? Why did it allow its sons to security apparatus to wake up, but for It is misguided to think that those turn into killers? all Kosovars to stop what they are doing young jihadists are just a few outliers and It wasn’t always so. A mere two dec- and take a hard look at themselves, and outright criminals. It’s true that a majority ades ago, in the mid-1990s, life was hard, examine their families, their sons and of Kosovo’s young are outraged by these enduring Serbia’s repressive regime, but daughters. What have they become? acts of barbarism and abhor those who the face of the youth was diferent. Instead Why are 16-year-olds going to Wahhabi- took that route. But this argument misses of heading east to become jihadists, they style mosques all over Kosovo? Why are the point, for while these may be extreme headed west, looking for jobs to help fami- teenagers at the mosque in the frst place? cases, the economic and social environ- lies survive. For the rest of us, brought up That may be an institution where an Iraqi, ment in Kosovo these days is ripe for in Kosovo, life was an improvised act that Afghani, or Syrian teenager spends his extremism to spread its toxic teachings made up for the lack of a normal child- time, but it is not a natural place for boys and indoctrinate ever larger numbers of hood that our peers enjoyed in the West. in Kosovo to learn about life's lessons. It young people. While confict raged next door in Bosnia has never been and it should never be a That is why pooh-poohing these inci- and jihadists of all shapes travelled to place where sons of Kosovo get an educa- dents is dangerous and will only reinforce fght there in the name of Allah, Kosovo’s tion about anything, least of all in religion. the idea that both Kosovo’s institutions youth went to underground schools and This is not an Islamophobic perspec- and people in general are complicit in watched pirated movies at home. tive, but it is a perspective that vehement- the radicalization of the youth. Kosovars When I was growing up just a few ly rejects the Islamification of Kosovo’s should rise up now and stop the march of kilometers outside Prishtina, my friends youth. For those who still have the illusion this malignant and dangerous trend. and I never went to a mosque or church that somehow the nation must strike a to make a religious point. Houses of wor- tenuous balance between freedom of Mikra Krasniqi is a senior economist ship were places where ceremonies took speech and security, they are living in with the Government of Maryland’s place and where old men went to pray ultimate denial - and the price for this Department of Economic and in silence with soft-voiced aged imams misapplied principle will be enormous Business Development in Baltimore. who preached a simple creed of humil- to the country. Born in Kosovo, he holds graduate ity, respect for the elderly, family and A basic tenet of modern society, free degrees from George Mason University and Harvard University. 24 August 29-September 11, 2014 Prishtina Insight