Opinion: Good News for Kosovo and the Rule of Law

May 10 - 23, 2013 Issue No. 111 www.prishtinainsight.com Price € 1 INVESTIGATION Car Pollution Checks Fall By the Wayside > page 2 BUSINESS PTK Buyer Spies Gold in Call Centres > page 3 NEWS Macabre Network Serbs Face Phased Transition to After convictions in the Medicus Kosovo Rule organ trafficking case, EULEX vows to press on with a new investigation. Meanwhile, the prosecutor speaks out. Plus, see how the clinic brought together buyers and sellers of kidneys > page 5 from Europe, Asia and North America. NEIGHBOURHOOD pages 10 - 13 Croatia’s EU Benefits Tempt Bosnian Youth Kosovo Prepares to Legalize > page 8 INSIDE PRISHTINA Organ Transplants Nothing Fishy Bill offers hope for patients who must go abroad for new organs – but concerns remain about granting licenses to pri- About Detari’s Fish vate medical centres in the light of the Medicus case. dialysis,” he said. afford the 18,000-euro price. ple guilty for their roles in carry- By Visar Duriqi E.K. even has a potential donor: “It’s hard. The situation is seri- ing out dozens of illegal kidney his mother. ous for all the family. I’m practical- transplants in the clinic on the He sent a request to the Ministry ly non-functional, but family mem- outskirts of Prishtina. > page 21 .K. has failing kidneys and of Health for an operation, one of bers take care of me,” he said. The clinic lured poor people needs a transplant. . 12 people to seek transplants this “It is very difficult especially from Eastern Europe and Central EThe young man from Prishtina, who spoke on condition year. He never heard back. when you know that all this suffer- Asia with the promise of big pay- that his full name was not dis- The operation cannot take place ing is because we do not have the offs for selling their kidneys. The closed, gets dialysis each week to in Kosovo in any case because no funds for a transplant,” E.K. said. recipients, mostly from Israel, Kosovo’s only English-language filter his blood. law is in place governing organ E.K’s situation is ironical given paid much bigger sums for the newspaper is available: “I’m 19 years old and it’s hard to transplants. the aftermath of the convictions new organs. force myself to go to hospital every He looked at having it done in in the so-called Medicus case. Delivered to week and stay there for hours on Macedonia. But his family cannot Last week, courts found five peo- continues page 11 Your Door

Hive Giveaway a Honeypot Turkish Soap Operas Bewitch From Newsstands for Municipal Workers The Balkans across Kosovo rishtina had quite the offer for the urn on the TV in any part of the Sent To aspiring beekeeper: Two hives with Balkans today and you may well tune Your Inbox Pbees and specialized equipment, Tinto a Turkish soap opera. including masks, gloves and a tool the col- Booming in popularity across the region, lect the honey - all for free. The idea, offi- according to media research agencies, From cially, was to increase the number of bee- dozens of these imports are being screened our partners keepers in Prishtina. daily on televisions from ... inside prishtina page 22 culture page 7 see page 16 for more info

is supported by: 2 May 10 - 23, 2013 investigation

The average age of cars in Kosovo is around 17 years old. (Photo/Nate Tabak) Car Pollution Checks Fall by the Wayside The government still hasn’t followed through on the Prime Minister’s order to carry out mandatory exhaust checks. Department of Vehicles in the the number at nearly 400,000. Ministry of Infrastructure, which Shatri said his department is tasked with implementing the would begin testing in September, By Jeton Musliu order. but it’s unclear what, if any, steps Thaci’s directive would in theo- have been taken. ry put Kosovo on a similar footing He said checking and enforcing as the EU, where cars face regular emissions was contingent on year and a half after the tests to ensure that their emis- checks on fuel standards, which he Prime Minister signed a sions fall within designated limits. claimed is not happening. Aregulation, vehicles on Mirroring EU regulations, the “Without checking the oil, it’s very Kosovo roads continue to generate directive categorizes cars into five dangerous to start checking the growing amounts of pollutants groupings based on age. Each emissions,” Shatri said. that pose a danger to public health. group has set limits for particular Officials of the Ministry of Hashim Thaci signed an admin- pollutants. Trade and Industry, which over- istrative Instruction on “Allowed Such testing is especially rele- sees oil standards, said there are Norms of Gas Emissions” on vant to older vehicles that predate strict controls on fuel in Kosovo. December 22, 2011. contemporary emissions stan- “Oil is imported to Kosovo entirely Mandating emissions testing as dards and are more likely to have in conformity to European stan- part of regular vehicle registra- mechanical issues that affect dards,” Arta Istrefi, a ministry tion, the directive called for the exhaust. spokeswoman, said. establishment of 86 centres to test Cars in Kosovo are 17 years old Oil products are checked at bor- vehicle exhaust. That has not hap- on average, according to govern- der points and subjected to further University of Prishtina professor Bashkim Baxhaku says car pollution in Kosovo is similar pened. ment figures. The Interior controls inside the country. to what the EU had 15 years ago. (Photo/Jeton Musliu) “Why hasn’t the instruction Ministry did not disclose figures “Internally the control is done by been implemented? I don’t know,” on car registrations, but a 2009 sampling oil in the sales point in Meanwhile, public health improve the environment,” said Nebih Shatri, head of the University of Prishtina study put accordance with the annual plan authorities are alarmed by the Ramadani added. of monitoring under the supervi- recent increase in pollutants There is no hard data on pollu- sion of the Market Inspectorate,” related to car exhaust. tion generated by vehicles. But a Istrefi said. The National Institute of 2009 study by two professors at There is also some confusion Public Health reports that since the University of Prishtina, about the stamps foreseen to cer- 2009, daytime levels of nitrous Bashkim Baxhaku and Hajredin tify that cars have passed their oxide and sulfur dioxide - com- Tytyri, said Kosovo was signifi- emissions tests. monly produced through vehicle cantly worse off than its neigh- Shatri said he did not know emissions - have doubled or bours and the EU. whether this was the responsibil- tripled, especially in Prishtina. “EU countries had the results ity of the Ministry of “In Western states this would we have today on car pollution Infrastructure or the Ministry of cause alarm,” Naser Ramadani, back in 1995”, Baxhaku told the Environment and Spatial director of the National Institute Prishtina Insight recently. “If we Planning. of Public Health, said. look at the region, they are “The main responsibility for During the same period, deaths around five years ahead of us.” implementing this guideline falls caused by pollution-linked ill- Shatri, of the Ministry of on the Ministry of nesses, such as certain respirato- Infrastructure, acknowledged Infrastructure,” Ilir Mirena, ry and circulatory diseases, and that emissions controls would be deputy environment minister, various cancers, have increased, a good thing for everyone. claimed. Ramadani noted. “Of course, regulating the gas The office of the Prime “There’s no question that gases emissions would improve the are among the causes of these environment because emissions Nebih Shatri, head of the Department of Vehicles in the Ministry of Infrastructure, Minister did not respond to diseases, and decreasing emis- would be in line with European offered no concrete explanation for why Kosovo cars aren't getting mandatory emissions Prishtina Insight’s questions testing. (Photo/Jeton Musliu) about its emissions directive. sions would undoubtedly standards,” he said.

Y M C K Automobiles are a growing contributor to Prishtina's abominable air quality. (Photo/Jeton Musliu) business May 10 - 23, 2013 3 PTKPTK BuyerBuyer SpiesSpies GoldGold inin CallCall CentresCentres Telecom could become lead player in small but burgeoning industry in Kosovo, which is tapping the low-wage, multi- lingual workforce.

By Liridona Hyseni

pponents of the privatisa- The European call centre mar- tion of the state telecom ket is expected to reach a value of Ofirm, PTK, have long said $22.5 billion by 2017, up from $18.3 that the sale would lead to massive billion in 2010, according to a 2011 layoffs. study by the firm Frost & Sullivan. But after ACP Axos Capital Kosovo is trying to capture a made its winning bid for a 75 per piece of that growth. cent stake in PTK in April, the “Kosovo offers a young and qual- German firm boldly stated that it ified workforce,” said Valdrin would, in fact, create “employ- Lluka, chief executive of the ment opportunities for thousands Investment Promotion Agency of of Kosovo’s citizens”. Kosovo. Without providing specifics, Kosovo’s young workforce also ACP Axos Capital said it would earn a fraction of their counter- create the new jobs by establishing parts in Western Europe; the aver- “call centers for technical support age monthly wage is only around to European companies.” 300 euro. Many also speak foreign Establishing PTK as an out- languages, including English and sourcing centre would tap into a German. nascent industry in Kosovo. Arian Zeka, executive director The Investment Promotion at the American Chamber of Agency of Kosovo, in its 2011 to Commerce, said call centres offer a A call centre in Costa Rica could offer a preview of what’s in store for Kosovo’s PTK. (Photo/ESL Call Centre) 2013 strategy, has made outsourc- good opportunity for young people ing one of its main priorities for who have few other job options. ent in foreign languages. number may be higher since some market isn’t clear, a few start-up attracting foreign investment. “I support the idea because it If PTK establishes call centres are registered simply as telecom- centres have emerged in Kosovo Call centres, often used by means using the youth, especially of its own, it is likely to become munications firms. recently, albeit with mixed suc- phone companies for customer knowing the high level of unem- the largest player in the field in A study in 2009 from Investment cess. service and technical support, in ployment in Kosovo,” Zeka said. Kosovo. Promotion Agency of Kosovo Call Centre Rena recently particular, are experiencing According to him, this industry Fifteen businesses are regis- found a total of 29 call centres opened in Vita with four employ- growth in Europe, primarily in is a good opportunity to employ tered as “call centres” in Kosovo employing 1,000 people. ees, all of whom speak German, Eastern Europe. youngsters in Kosovo who are flu- today, though officials say the real While the current size of the said owner Feim Xhaferi. The company’s main client is a Swiss firm that sells nutritional supplements. Staff earn a bonus of 50 euro cent on every sale on top of a wage of 3 euro an hour. “Our clients are in Switzerland and work is going well, so we want to expand, ” Xhaferi said. Xhaferi, who invested 5,000 euro in the Viti location, plans to open an office in Prishtina and hire 10 employees there. But other new call centres haven’t had the same success. Shkurte Pali briefly opened Call Center SH in Prishtina in 2012. “I closed the call centre last January, soon after I opened it, since there were no profits,” Pali said. Meanwhile, Valon Havolli has struggled to get his Call Center Leon up and running. He registered it four months ago, but so far hasn’t secured the funds he needs to make it opera- tional. “I haven’t been able to start work because I haven’t had the support. I tried to take out a bank loan, but haven’t been able to do so,” Havolli said. Havolli hasn’t given up, though. He is planning to travel to Switzerland to find a business partner in the health care indus- try. “If I can’t, then I will de-register A woman works in a call centre in Romania. (Flore de Preneuf /World Bank) the businesses,” he said. 4 May 10 - 23, 2013 news ‘No Abuse’ at KLA Prison, Reported Drop in Former Detainee Says Unemployment Ex-inmate at Llapashtica denies earlier statements to investigators concerning beatings and torture. Dismissed

ordered and participated in Official unemployment rate is over 35 per the beating and torture of cent - a 10 per cent drop from 2009 - but Kosovo Albanian civilians experts believe that the real number of job- detained in the detention By Edona Peci centre located at less people is much higher. Llapashtica, in an attempt to tistics agency only seems force those detainees to con- to take into account those witness in the high- fess to acts of disloyalty to people who make contact profile trial of the the KLA from October of ‘Llapi Group’ denied By Edona Peci with to employment A 1998 until late April 1999”. that there were beatings and offices, while people who The prosecution confront- torture at a wartime Kosovo don’t trust those institu- ed Avdyli with statements he Liberation Army detention osovo’s statistics tions or don’t know who to had previously given to centre in Llapashtica. agency announced contact about their jobless Prosecution witness Avdyl investigative judges in Klast Tuesday that situation are excluded. Avdyli told the court in which he spoke about beat- the unemployment rate Meanwhile those with ings, threats and torture at Prishtina on Wednesday that was 35.1 per cent, a jobs are determined to hold the KLA detention centre. “there were never beatings decrease of 10.3 per cent onto them even if it means But the witness replied amongst prisoners” at the compared to 2009, when the missing out on the that “around 70 per cent of detention centre, denying last official analysis of the International Workers’ the things said in the tran- statements he had previous- labour situation was con- Day holiday. scripts are not in line with ducted. ly given to investigators “We don’t have the luxu- what I really said”. “Based on preliminary about abuses there. ry not to work on May 1,” “There were several types results, a high rate of He said he had no infor- Labinot Berisha, a food of interpreters - Albanians, unemployment is more mation that detainees might store owner in Prishtina, Serbs - and I don’t know pronounced in the munici- have been tortured or threat- told Prishtina Insight. what they wrote [in the tran- pality of Gjakova ened at Llapashtica although He suggested that unem- scripts],” Avdyli said. [Djakovica], in Prizren and he said he was interrogated ployment had become the The witness also said he in Mitrovica,” said twice by masked Kosovo accepted norm in Kosovo. had never seen Gashi at the Bashkim Belaqa, director Liberation Army, KLA sol- “People are tired. They detention centre and had of the social statistics diers. see nothing can be changed only heard Mehmeti’s nick- department at the agency. The defendants Latif name from others. But experts warned the so they have kind of Gashi (known as Lata), cur- Avdyli had been expected number of unemployed accepted the reality they rently a lawmaker from the to testify as a protected wit- people among around 1.8 live in,” he said. Democratic Party of Kosovo, ness but waived his million registered resi- The economic crisis former MP Rrustem Mustafa anonymity. dents of Kosovo is much which hit some European (alias Remi) and Nazif The Llapi Group case was higher. Union states also had an Mehmeti (alias Nazi) – col- first investigated in 2001 and Former economy minis- impact in the Balkans, lectively known as the ‘Llapi 2002 by the UN mission in ter Haki Shatri told where many people have Group’ – all held command Kosovo. Prishtina Insight that “offi- lost their jobs over the past positions within the KLA In 2005, after a two-year cial data on unemployment two to three years. during the conflict in 1998- trial which concluded with in Kosovo is underestimat- In Bosnia and 99. guilty verdicts for the defen- Latif Gashi, right, and Rrustem Mustafa, leave an earlier court session. ed”. Herzegovina, nearly half Their indictment alleges dants, Kosovo’s supreme “It’s worse. It’s actually a the population is unem- that Gashi, Mehmeti and court ordered a retrial KLA commanders were oners. miracle how people in ployed; in Macedonia, the Mustafa “acting in concert because the allegations had again found guilty of war They appealed against the Kosovo can survive bear- unemployment rate is over with other unidentified indi- not been proved “beyond all crimes and jailed for the tor- verdicts and in 2011, the ing in mind the high rate of 31 per cent; while in Serbia viduals and pursuant to a doubt”. ture and inhumane treat- supreme court ordered a par- unemployment,” he said. the official rate is 22.4 per joint criminal enterprise, In 2009, the three former ment of detention camp pris- tial retrial. Shatri said that the sta- cent. Photo News: Remembering the Missing

A circle of lit candles in cen- tral Prishtina commemo- rates those who went missing during 1998-99 war on April 27. More than 1,000 people are estimated to still be miss- ing from the war. (AP

Y Photo/ Visar M C Kryeziu ) K news May 10 - 23, 2013 5 Serbs Face Phased Transition to Kosovo Rule Kosovo's authority will be introduced to Serb-run northern Kosovo in three stages, Prishtina Insight can reveal, as Kosovo Serb leaders warn the EU- backed plan may prompt them to emigrate. ministers of police, justice and Kosovo has been beyond the education from both sides. Prishtina government’s control, Dismayed Kosovo Serb politi- while Serbia has continued to By Gordana Andric cians say they are unsure about finance local security, judicial, their prospects in a reintegrated health and educational institu- Kosovo or how the deal will be tions. he EU’s draft proposal for implemented on the ground. the implementation of the They say Serbs will not want to The EU has a plan: Trecently-reached Belgrade- vote in elections organised under Prishtina deal suggests that it Kosovo laws, but say that because The EU diplomat told Prishtina should be implemented in three northern Kosovo is financially Insight that the implementation of stages, Prishtina Insight has the deal, according to Gentilini’s learned. dependent on Belgrade, the An EU diplomat who spoke to Serbian government may impose proposal, should start with the Prishtina Insight on condition of implementation of the plan. withdrawal of all Serbian security anonymity said the EU's director However, they warn that many structures from northern Kosovo, for Western Balkans, Fernando Serbs could leave Kosovo in including the civil protection force Gentilini, presented the Serbian protest. formed by local Serbs. and Kosovo negotiating teams Kosovo and Serbia adopted a 15- In the second stage, northern with the implementation plan on point draft agreement on normal- Kosovo should hold municipal April 25 in Brussels. The teams ising relations on April 19, allow- elections helped by the OSCE, in met again yesterday, and it’s ing both sides to advance their accordance with Kosovo laws. Municipal leaders from four Serb-run municipalities in northern Kosovo meet in Zvecan in unclear if the proposal has since integration into the European “The issue of elections will be a April to discuss the talks between Belgrade and Prishtina. (Betaphoto/Sasa Djordjevic) changed. Union. matter for further negotiations, as According to Gentilini’s propos- The draft agreement mainly the Prishtina team wants the elec- Albanians for 14 years and people institutions as well as the police, al, in the first stage Serbia and the concerns the future of the Serbian tions organised in 2014, along with distrust Prishtina. Now we are judiciary and education, Pantic Kosovo Serbs should abolish all community in Kosovo. However, local elections in the rest of expected to replace our country, says that economic motives will Serb-run security structures in Serbs from northern Kosovo Kosovo, while Belgrade wanted the Serbia, with Kosovo,” said Marko also prompt people to relocate to northern Kosovo. rejected the agreement and are election held before that,” the EU Jaksic, a Democratic Party of Serbia. In the second stage, Serbs in refusing to take any part in it. source said. Serbia, DSS, MP from Kosovo. “Kosovo itself has high unem- northern Kosovo will hold elec- The deal envisages that the local In the third stage, the police, He believes that Kosovo Serbs ployment, so I’m not sure how they tions for the new Association of Serbian community will choose its judiciary and education system are unlikely to take part in local will be able to finance additional Serbian Municipalities. own police commanders, while the will be financed by the govern- elections intended to mark the salaries and institutions. Serbs In the third phase, after the elec- composition of the police will gen- ment in Prishtina instead of first step in the implementation of will not accept being financially tions, the Serbian security forces, erally reflect the ethnic structure Belgrade, although educational the agreement. dependent on Prishtina; they will judiciary and the educational sys- on the ground. The draft also pro- institutions in north Kosovo will “Only people who would gain decide to leave Kosovo,” says tem will be integrated into the poses that more judges come from be able to follow the same curricu- materially from their votes in the Pantic. Kosovo police, judiciary and edu- the Serbian minority. lum as Serbian schools. elections would go to the polls and Oliver Ivanovic, former state cational systems. An Association of Serbian According to the source, imple- that is less than 5 per cent. Such secretary at the Serbian govern- The EU is forming a working Municipalities with broad powers mentation of the third stage will elections would have no legitima- ment’s ministry for Kosovo, says group that will work on implemen- will include the four Serb-run have to undergo further discus- cy,” said Jaksic. that Belgrade and Kosovo Serbs tation of the plan. While the first northern municipalities of North sion. Krstimir Pantic, Mayor of might, however, find a compro- stage is expected to be led by the Mitrovica, Leposavic, Zvecan and According to the source, there is Mitrovica and deputy head of the mise solution and jointly imple- Serbian Prime Minister, Ivica Zubin Potok. no exact deadline for implementa- Serbian government’s office for ment the deal. Dacic, and his deputy, Aleksandar Since the end of the Kosovo con- tion of the agreement. However, Kosovo, agreed that few Serbs He explains that while the Vucic, the third is to be led by the flict in the late 1990s, northern some progress must be made would vote in elections held under police, judiciary and local govern- before June, when EU heads of Kosovo laws. ment must be included in Kosovo’s states are expected to decide on a “We still don’t know whether the legal framework, Prishtina will date for opening accession talks elections will be held in accor- not insist that all other institu- with Serbia. dance with Prishtina’s laws. If so, tions are included as well. The EU Enlargement people will not vote,” said Pantic. “If the Serbian government Commissioner, Stefan Füle, said Both Jaksic and Pantic believe guarantees that it will not exclude on April 26 that the EU’s decision that if Belgrade imposes the health, education and culture will depend on the implementa- agreement on the Kosovo Serbs, institutions in Kosovo from its sys- tion of the agreement. many will leave. tem, the deal might be implement- “Kosovo Serbs will struggle, but ed, as these are very important ‘Only Belgrade can order they will eventually have to accept issues to us,” says Ivanovic, who is the Serbs’ what Belgrade wants. We have also a Kosovo Serb. been fighting for 14 years, people Ivanovic said the state should Kosovo Serb politicians say the are tired. Many will leave Kosovo. I launch a campaign to explain the agreement reached in Brussels believe that a third of them would deal to Kosovo Serbs so that they has created uncertainty in the leave,” said Jaksic. don’t fear the changes. north, and that the deal may only Because the deal envisages that “Kosovo Serbs will boycott the be implemented if Belgrade cash-strapped Prishtina will be elections for the first year, but A man walks by a mural depicting the former Bosnian Serb wartime commander, Ratko imposes it. responsible for financing the later they will have to accept the Mladic, in Zevan, in northern Kosovo. (Betaphoto/Sasa Djordjevic) “Serbs have not lived with newly-formed local government new reality,” said Ivanovic. Serbia, Kosovo PMs To Push Through Deal After the two delegations failed to agree an action plan, the Serbian Prime Minister said the EU-led deal will be finalised following direct meetings with his Kosovo counterpart. Brussels on May 21. Marko Djuric, advisor to delegation walked out of the out. The summit comes after the Serbian President Tomislav meeting on Wednesday. Kosovo Serb leaders have con- Serbian and Kosovo delegations Nikolic, who led the Belgrade The Kosovo government said demned the agreement on nor- failed to agree on Wednesday on team in talks on implementing the Serbian delegation had raised malising relations as a first step By Prishtina Insight ways to implement the EU deal the deal, said that Serbia had pre- new issues in the talks that were towards Serbian recognition of brokered in April. sented a comprehensive plan. not part of the original document. Kosovo's independence, pro- The deal envisions that the local This would ensure that the It said such issues could only be claimed in 2008. erbia's Prime Minister, Ivica Serbian community in Kosovo future community of Serbian discussed between the two prime Since the end of the Kosovo Dacic, said an action plan to will choose its own police com- municipalities in Kosovo "has ministers and not during the talks conflict in the late 1990s, northern Simplement the Brussels-led manders, while the composition precisely those rights envisaged on implementing the agreement. Kosovo has been beyond the agreement on Kosovo will be com- of the police generally will reflect by the agreement", he said. Serbs in the north of Kosovo Prishtina government’s control, pleted in seven to ten days through the ethnic structure on the Djuric also said that the EU offi- have meanwhile written to while Serbia has continued to Y top-level dialogue. ground. The draft also proposes cials "did not have any significant Russia, seeking Kremlin aid finance local security, judicial, M Dacic and his Kosovo counter- more judges coming from the objections" to this plan. against the EU-brokered deal on health and educational institu- C part, Hashim Thaci, are to meet in Serbian minority. According to Djuric, the Kosovo Kosovo, which they see as a sell- tions. K 6 May 10 - 23, 2013 culture

The No. 1. and No. 3 most-watched shows in Kosovo are Turkish. (Photo/Korab Basha) Turkish Soaps Bewitch Soap operas from Turkey have replaced Latin American shows as must-sees for many TV viewers in the region - tapping into nostalgia for a system of family values that people in the region have lost, and lament. sidered that the topics in these series are that in the first quarter of 2013, for example, family life, and the Turkish shows help By Donjeta Demolli in more akin to the mentality in Kosovo, and 13 Turkish shows were being screened on them recall value systems that now seem Prishtina, Amina Hamzic in this will attract more Kosovar viewers,” nine stations by two TV networks. lost. Sarajevo, Maja Nedelkovska in says Dardan Selimaj, a producer at Koha The most watched show in Bosnia and “The traditional family model has gone to Skopje and Nemanja Cabric in Vision, which airs “Love and Punishment.” Herzegovina was “Magnificent Century“, ruins in the Balkans while the new model is Belgrade Viewers that Prishtina Insight talked to which is set in the golden age of the not functioning yet,” Bozovic explains. say they love the shows for their realistic Ottoman Empire at the court of Suleiman Artan Muhaxhiri, a sociologist from characters, intriguing plot lines that the Magnificent. Kosovo, attributes the success of these urn on the TV in any part of the include whole families and the lack of vio- In Macedonia, of nine Turkish shows on series more to the fact that they do not Balkans today and you may well tune lence and obscenities. air, five were ranked in January 2013 among require much intellectual effort. into a Turkish soap opera. T the top 15 in terms of viewers, according to Scenarios are constructed in such a way Booming in popularity across the region, AGB Nielsen. that both dialogue and events are simple, according to media research agencies, Ottomans are back: “As Time Goes By” and “Asi” came first sometimes verging on banality, he main- dozens of these imports are being screened and second in terms of viewers. “Zavet tains. daily on televisions from Albania to the Data show that, in the region, Turkish (“Pledge”), “Mother” and “Memories Still “The stories are melodramatic, lengthy Black Sea. shows are most watched in Bosnia and Hurt” also ranked in the top 15. The trend and emotionally charged, which promotes Sociologists explain the phenomenon, in Herzegovina and Macedonia followed by continued in February with minor changes the establishment of relations of viewers to part, as a sentimental reaction on the part of Kosovo and Serbia, where the phenomenon at the top of the list. crowds of characters,” he says. viewers in the Balkans to an old patriarchal is still developing. Four Turkish shows are currently on air In Serbia, four Turkish soaps are current- Muhaxhiri believes that Turkish series family model that appears dead in the ly on air on three television stations, in Kosovo. The most popular in December have an additional advantage in penetrating Balkans but which is still alive in Turkey – although none made it onto the Top 15 list 2012 were “What is Fatmagül's fault,” the Albanian market, as “the cultural refer- at least in TV shows. compiled by AGB Nielsen. which ranked top of all programmes and ences are very similar to those of our view- “The first reason why we started to broad- The most popular Turkish show that “Love and punishment,” which came third. ers. cast Turkish soap operas was that we con- appeared in their measuring was “When Research by Mareco Index Bosnia shows “Social norms and values, the general Leaves Fall,” which ranked 17th in the over- mentality, family relationships, lifestyle, all TV programme in February 2012. clothing, food, furniture, character names - Research from this year shows that in the Albanian viewer can easily identify January 2013 the top two Turkish shows with all these cultural elements in Turkish were “Magnificent Century,” which ranked soaps,” he adds. fourth, and “As Time Goes By,” which came seventh. Love actually:

Tapping into nostalgia: Darko Brocic, director of AGB Nielsen, says that while Turkish shows are widely Serbian sociologist Ratko Bozovic says watched throughout the region, their popu- people identity with the patriarchal values larity depends on the particular show. of the Turkish shows, and enjoy spotting “Generally, love stories do better among the many cultural and linguistic similari- audiences because these shows are mostly ties that they recognize while watching the shows. “I love them; they relax me after the “The mentality depicted in those shows has to do with a traditional understanding stress of the day. It’s an addictive Y of morality that people in Serbia remember habit.” M at some level,” he says. C Bozovic said that all Balkan countries Hajrie Reka, Prishtina K have seen dramatic changes in terms of culture May 10 - 23, 2013 7

Turkish Series Lead Prime-time Ratings

"What's Fatmagul's fault" (RTV21) 34% News (RTK) 32% "Love and punishment" (KTV) 29% Film (RTV21) 23% "Our Cafe" (RTK) 16% News (KTV) 15% "Oxygen" (KTV) 15% News (RTV21) 11% Football (RTK) 10% "Life in Kosovo" (RTK) 10% Film (KTV) 9% Source: Index Kosova, December 2012

All the way to Istanbul:

Snježana Radenkovi , from Serbia, says was so thrilled with some of the shows that she watched that she went all the way to Istanbul to find out more. “I saw the old city and the Topkapi Palace, which includes the harem, as well the old houses that look like those in the shows that I enjoy,” she enthuses. She says her friends also watch these shows, and they are a frequent topic in their conversations. “When I headed to Istanbul, I left a mes- sage on my Facebook profile that I was going to find Savash (a character from Love and Punishment played by Murat Yıldırım), and so many people liked my status and commented on it that I realized that every- “My family protest when I watch them one watched the same show,” she says. and argue with me but I tell them that it presents real relaxation for me,” she says. “Most of them are dubbed, so I can do my knitting at the same time, which is a double “Social norms and values, the gen- pleasure.” eral mentality, family relationships, The Balkans Almasa Alilovic, also from Skopje, says lifestyle, clothing, food, furniture, watching Turkish soaps has become a fami- ly ritual in their household. character names - the Albanian “We watch Turkish shows together, viewer can easily identify with all watched by women,” he says. what to expect from the future. which is nice,” she says. “You can hear “Even the historical topics are imagined “I got fed up with Spanish-language shows something happening in the show and after- these cultural elements in Turkish more as stories from everyday life, so the his- because they all follow the same pattern and wards recognize a similar situation in your soaps.” torical component is not the main one,” involve plots that don’t happen in everyday own life,” she adds. “It’s not like I identify Brocic adds. life to ordinary people,” she says. myself with the stories, but there are beau- Artan Muhaxhiri, sociologist Turkish producers didn’t invest much in She says that she likes the Turkish lan- tiful stories in there.” that area, and the accent, even in guage and their culture, as well as finding Alilovic likes love stories best, as well as “Magnificent Century”, is more on the intri- the acting in the shows lifelike. the actors, who she says “are handpicked so She feels many people do not want to cacies that take place at court than on the Elvira Malic, a trader from Sarajevo, finds they compel you to watch the shows and admit that they watch these soaps because historical events, he continues. Turkish shows relaxing. The characters are amaze you and make you interested in they feel ashamed to do so. Commenting on the rise of dubbed more realistic than those in shows from them”. “It’s not 'in', although it is perfectly all Turkish soaps in Macedonia a few years ago, Spain and Latin America; even the most evil Aco Ristovski, from Skopje, likes the fact right to watch Hollywood productions,” she he observes that these shows also became characters have some redeeming human that characters are not superheroes; there continues. “But I do not feel ashamed at all. more popular precisely because of the dub- qualities. is no violence, just ordinary human tales. On the contrary I am delighted.” bing, as it helps viewers who have difficul- “I like the element of oriental exoticism “They are like a light novel. They are Amela Bicic, a student of journalism ties following subtitles. that I recognize in the costumes of actors more interesting than American ones with from Belgrade, says that almost the whole of “In Serbia there is no custom of dubbing like those in ‘Magnificent century,’” she says. all those lawyers and businessmen who her family in Belgrade, as well as those scat- programmes, except for children, but the “Their culture is also close to me, as there don't have the same customs as us,” he says. tered across the world, in the US and Macedonians have done it well by casting are a lot of things here left over from the “Turkish shows are much closer to us. Canada, enjoy watching Turkish shows. good actors whose voices became recogniza- Ottomans. We call our coffee ‘Turkish’, for “Many people make fun of those who Her two grandmothers both buy maga- ble to audiences,” he notes. example, even if we prepare it differently. I watch Turkish shows,” he adds. “I tell them zines in which they follow the latest gossip On the other hand, Bozovic says people are am interested in these things.” that I need this relaxation, and the offer on about their favourite actors together. also drawn by the original Turkish language, Zvezda Blazevska, from Skopje, compares Macedonian television provides no other Although she doesn't watch much televi- as they can pick up on words that their lan- her husband’s passion for football with hers choice.” sion herself, she sometimes sits with them guages have borrowed from Turkish and the for Turkish shows. in order to spend time together - and says other way around. the Turkish shows seem superior to their Spanish and Indian rivals. ‘Adios’ to Spanish: “Indian shows are awful. The acting is terrible. Turkish shows you can watch and Most people who follow Turkish soaps in cry through all the time. They are much bet- Bosnia, Macedonia, Kosovo and Serbia say ter than the others,” she says. they admire the family relations depicted in Syzana Gashi, a fan from Peja, in Kosovo, them, as well as cultural similarities. has lots of time to spend on her favourite Nefisa Bubi , a pensioner from Sarajevo, shows. “I have a plenty of time in the day says the stories remind her of fairy tales in since I quit my job, that's why I watch TV which good and evil are strongly opposed to soaps,” she says. one another. On the other hand, Lirim Bekteshi, from “I like the way they represent relation- Gjilan, compares soaps to “reading a novel. ships between children and parents in shows They give you the same story, just visual- like ‘When Leaves Fall,’ which is full of the ized,” he explains. deep respect that once existed here as well,” Hajrie Reka, from Prishtina, says watch- she says, adding that she enjoys noting simi- ing TV soaps has become almost a way of larities between Turkish and Bosnian lan- life. From Latin American shows to Turkish guages. ones, she has seen them all. Y Irnesa Senderovic, also from Sarajevo, “I love them; they relax me after the M says these shows taught her what people can stress of the day,” Reka concludes. “It’s an C be like, what are they ready to do and thus addictive habit.” K 8 May 10 - 23, 2013 neighbourhood Croatia’s EU Benefits Tempt Bosnian Youth Young Bosnians with Croatian passports will have new opportunities to work in Europe after Croatia joins the EU in July - but some regard this privilege with mixed feelings. sons in Bosnia was more than 550,000, which is 44.4 per cent of the working-age population, the By Kenan Efendic highest number recorded. Many young people, particular- ly those affected by unemploy- ment, see the only chance for omislav Piplica, an 23, work in moving to other English Literature student European countries. Tfrom Sarajevo - one of half a When Croatia becomes EU million Bosnians with Croatian member in July, young Bosnians citizenship - is well aware of all the grim problems that young will have better opportunities to Bosnians face, starting with low find jobs in the EU if they have employment and generally poor Croatian passports. Those with perspectives. this right will have the same But he says he will do all in his working rights as any other EU power to obtain a decent life in citizen. his home country before deciding “When Croatia joins the whether to make use of the privi- European Union, citizens of leges that his Croatian citizen- Bosnia and Herzegovina who ship gives him. have Croatian citizenship will Martina Bradara, a 25-year-old have same rights as Croatian citi- zens from Croatia, including recent graduate in journalism, Croatia’s forthcoming EU membership will mean that roughly a half-million Bosnian Croats will also have EU citizenship. thinks differently. Now strug- right to free movement, employ- (Photo/Martin Deutsch) gling to find a job, she is eager to ment and education”, the use the opportunities that Croatian Foreign Ministry has Dajana Cvjetković, 24, who lives Insight. to stay for couple years or for Croatia’s EU membership will confirmed. in Breza, a small town near He admits that he is not even longer but in any case it will be give her. But, living in Bosnia and being Sarajevo, where she works in a that fully informed about all the huge experience,” she adds. “The economic situation in formally an EU citizen, thanks to NGO, is more satisfied with her rights and privileges that EU citi- Irena Mrnjavac, an activist Bosnia is so bad that I think that dual citizenship, leaves some life in Bosnia. With a secure job, zenship will give him. from Mostar and president of the going abroad is a smart deci- Bosnians with Croatian pass- she doesn’t need, or intend, to go “I don’t intend to pack my stuff organization Croatian Students sion,” she says. ports with mixed feelings. anywhere. and run away from here,” he says. Political Science Forum, says she “I am ready to move away for a “Living in Bosnia and being an “I am not going to leave this “But, in any case, it is good to doesn’t want to use her Croatian good job opportunity. As a young EU citizen is like being a rich man country except as a tourist. In know that I have some opportuni- passport to leave - but under- and educated person, my chances who lives on the street,” Piplica future, I may go to do PhD studies ties in future.” stands young people who want to are better in a developed coun- says. “I won’t feel especially abroad, but that has nothing to do However, others without secure go abroad. try,” she told Prishtina Insight. European just because I have with my Croatian passport,” she jobs don’t see Bosnia as place to “I am not one of those who will While Croatia is due to join the Croatian citizenship.” says. build a good life and are glad they just pack their baggage. But I EU on July 1, neighbouring Daniela Maric, 24, a law gradu- “Life in Bosnia for me is just have new opportunities to emi- understand them, because this Bosnia and Herzegovina is very ate from Mostar, the biggest city fine and I don’t think I will ever grate. state doesn’t care at all about the far from that prospect. in Herzegovina, says she feels leave my country,” she adds. Ivanka Kordic, a 25-year-old law ‘brain drain,’” she told Prishtina An ongoing deep political crisis relieved by the idea of Croatia’s Mijo Džalto, 29, co-owner of graduate from Mostar, sees Insight. in the last couple of years has set EU accession. small IT company in Prozor, a Croatia joining the EU as big For her, the real advantage of back the country’s halting “Now I know what exactly I small town 110km west from advantage. Croatian EU accession shouldn’t progress on its EU path. have to do if I want to leave Sarajevo, feels the same. He does- “I will definitely go to work or be seen only in better possibilities With its ethnic tensions and Bosnia and work somewhere n’t think about leaving. study in the EU,” she says. “I for travel, education and work political feuds and a complicated else,” she told Prishtina Insight. “I don’t think I am a special think it is one of the best things abroad but in building better soci- administrative and political Nevertheless, she cannot say case because of my Croatian pass- that EU membership gives to ordi- eties in both Bosnia and Croatia. structure, the economic outlook that she feels proud of Croatia’s port and EU citizenship,” he says. nary citizens. “I hope that Croatian EU mem- worsens every year. EU accession, because Bosnia and “I am focused on life in Bosnia, “I will try to go to Germany, bership will be something more At the end of last year, the offi- Herzegovina remains her “prima- with all the problems and joys where my father has lived for than a simple passport towards cial number of unemployed per- ry homeland”. that it brings,” he told Prishtina years. I don’t know if I am going moving away,” she concludes. Serbian Gays Get Own Space for First Time be announced and get a reserva- phobic, as a result of which gay tion to go in. people tend to live in isolation Besides accommodation, all and with a high degree of secre- By Prishtina Insight guests will be able to get all the cy. information they need on where In 2009, 2011 and 2012, the they can move freely and the authorities banned gay parades "safe" places in town. after police declared they could ays in Belgrade are to get The centre, which is currently not safeguard marchers against their own "corner" in the under construction, will occupy threats of violence coming from Gheart of the capital in June 300 square metres of space in right-wing groups. for the first time. Kraljice Natalije street. The Gay Pride march went "The space is designed as a Zoric said that some people ahead in 2010, but several thou- place to rest, read, work, with had complained about the centre sand youngsters, including foot- lodging and a bar where LGBT being placed in the same street ball fans and members of right- people will be able to socialize," as a maternity hospital and two ist organisations, threw stones says Vesna Zoric, president of schools - an indication of what and missiles at the police, injur- the NGO Egal which initiated the gay rights activists are up ing police officers and setting project, together with two NGOs against in Serbia. buildings and vehicles on fire. “Bear zajednica" and “Loud & "None of the people coming to This year, organisers have Queer". the centre will parade on the announced that Belgrade Gay According to Zoric, only LGBT street, they will go into the room Pride Parade will be marked people who in general know each and stay there," she added. from September 20 to 29, while other will be allowed to enter, According to surveys, Serbian the central walk through the cap- Graffiti in Belgrade in 2009, against the gay pride parade, reflects the widespread homo- while guests from abroad must society remains deeply homo- ital is set for September 28. phobia in Serbia. (Photo/Aris Gionis) interview May 10 - 23, 2013 9 Macedonia Refuses to Face Its Troubled Past Macedonia has yet to face up to what happened in its 2001 conflict with Albanian rebels, says Biljana Vankovska, an advocate for Balkan reconciliation initiative RECOM.

international law. This means a political end was put to a story By Sinisa Jakov Marusic about perpetrators and victims, and without them there is no rec- onciliation." PI: In Macedonia you are known rishtina Insight: Johan as an advocate for the reconcilia- Tarculovski was the only tion initiative RECOM, whose aim Pethnic Macedonian convict- is to promote the creation of a ed by the Hague Tribunal of war regional commission tasked with crimes after his police unit killed establishing facts about war Albanian civilians during the 2001 crimes and human rights viola- conflict, but he was greeted with a tions in the Balkan wars. So far government-backed celebration in you have met numerous politi- Skopje last month after being released early. What did that say cians. What is your impression, is about reconciliation efforts in their support real or just rhetoric? Macedonia? Vankovska: "Declarative politi- Biljana Vankovska: "The wel- cal support for RECOM is usual coming party for Tarculovski is in everywhere in the region. All of fact the best indicator that we have us, public advocates for RECOM, lost all these ten years since the are facing the same problem. We conflict in vain, at least when it receive only declarative support, comes down to actually facing the which is at this moment almost past. unanimous among heads of state. "Macedonia not only had an "Now comes the real test, and agreement with the Hague that would be the formation of a Tribunal and cooperated with it, regional experts’ group made of representatives, personal envoys which means it made an obliga- Johan Tarculovski was convicted of war crimes in connection with the killing of Albanian civilians during the 2001 conflict in Macedonia. tion, but also Johan Tarculovski of the region’s heads of states. For the first time they would sit was convicted and served two- both on the Macedonian and four cases of war crimes allegedly "It is true that the families of the together at the same table and dis- thirds of his sentence. However, Albanian side, showed interest. No committed by Albanian rebels. kidnapped may be the most vul- cuss the document that the we saw that for the majority of one refused to meet me, and all of One of them was the case tackling nerable group we have to discuss. RECOM coalition prepared, the Macedonian citizens, for the eth- them even demonstrated a high the fate of 12 Macedonians kid- The least that must be done is to rulebook for the future regional nic Macedonians, this was irrele- level of awareness what RECOM napped during the conflict and find out the truth about the place commission. We want to make vant and for them; by getting out, was all about and they all had a presumed dead. In its last report they were buried so that their fam- them take some action. That will he became a hero, a martyr. Even stance, a reason to back RECOM. on human rights in Macedonia ilies can pay respects or at least be a long process. At this point, the legitimacy of the victims was All right, Macedonians had one published in April, the Council of have closure in that part of their even a symbolical act such as this questioned. position, Albanians another, but it Europe suggested that this investi- life. one is important. It does not mean "There’s a flipside of course, two seems to me that there was at least gation must not be stopped. Does "For now I don’t see any the end, on the contrary, it’s just sides to every story. On the other a wish list on both sides. this give new hope to families of progress in the Macedonian judici- the beginning of implementing hand, [Macedonia’s ethnic] "The problem in Macedonia is those kidnapped? ary. It seems we will have to work RECOM. Albanians, at least those who par- that this issue is, in most cases, Vankovska: "According to the on several fronts in order to send "We faced a unique obstacle ticipated in the conflict, or those being suppressed, cast aside most signals we received from the out- this unambiguous message: the here, which existed until recently, [now] in the government who are of the time, except when someone side, from the international com- least that the state owes to the vic- and that was the silence in Serbia. responsible in one way or another, needs to score political points by munity, both from government and tims of the conflict are the facts The new development is that even were not held accountable for the exploiting the war stories from non-government organisations that reveal what happened and the last president appointed a per- crimes committed. There was even 2001. The welcoming party for such as Amnesty International, how in cases of kidnapping, mur- sonal representative to the expert a political agreement in the parlia- Tarculovski was one such case for example, we have had a unani- der or torture. group for RECOM. ment to interpret the law on when I think we have had political mous agreement. And this defi- PI: Because of your public "Concretely in the case of amnesty, which confirmed an misuse of a Hague convict." nitely confirms that from interna- stance, you are often the target for Macedonia, I was pleasantly sur- inappropriately broad amnesty for PI: In 2011, the Macedonian par- tional law’s standpoint, the attacks coming from all sides. The prised that everyone I talked to, war crimes as established by the liament voted for an amnesty over amnesty is inadmissible. last fierce criticism came after you said that the welcoming party organised for Tarculovski was not right. Are you discouraged by this? Vankovska: "I have been in some kind of a sandwich [between dif- ferent sides] for years or in a posi- tion which does not fit the main- stream opinion, so I got used to it. In fact, it is the duty of a public intellectual. They do not have the right to complain about their posi- tion, because they themselves open up unpleasant issues which the politicians and public do not want to see, and reconciliation is obviously one of the most painful issues. "In that sense, I understand the attacks that ensued after I voiced my stance on Tarculovski’s wel- coming party, but I was unpleas- antly surprised by the viciousness and sheer number of attacks com- ing from politicians, media and people that I don’t even know. But Biljana Vankovska is an advocate for Balkan reconciliation initiative RECOM. (Photo/RECOM) it won’t have any effect on my job." 10 May 10 - 23, 2013 interview Prosecutors Renew Hunt for Kosovo Organ Traffickers As the EU rule of law mission in Kosovo stages a new organ-trafficking investigation, prosecutor Jonathan Ratel discusses the recent Medicus clinic convictions and the suspects who remain at large. to Kosovo through Istanbul. road in one of the neighbouring people-trafficking? tims too. Several of those persons Ratel: “Istanbul was a staging countries. We are just not sure.” Ratel: “Yes, I will. I think you have died, including the witnesses point for both the donor victims PI: Have you asked Turkey should understand that we are sat- that we heard from in the court.” By Kreshnik Gashi and the recipients. They would for the extradition of Sonmez isfied with the majority of the ver- PI: Have you worked with enter often on Turkish Airlines to Kosovo? dict, we find that the sentences cases of human trafficking flights together and then immedi- Ratel: “There was very limited and convictions are entirely before? rishtina Insight: Was the ately go to the Medicus clinic for opportunity for extradition both appropriate. We will file an appeal Ratel: “Yes, I have worked with investigation of the surgery, along with Moshe Harel. for Sonmez and Moshe Harel for on technical issues regarding the human trafficking in Sarajevo in PMedicus clinic near He was a key participant and a key obvious reasons that their law in limitations and on other technical the state court, in Bosnia.” Prishtina, where the illegal member of the organised criminal Turkey and Israel prohibits extra- matters. But I have to say that we PI: So you are familiar with kidney transplants took place, group.” dition of their own citizens under welcome these verdicts, we think this phenomenon? taken seriously from its outset PI: What was the role of the constitution. What was done that this is justice for the victims, Ratel: “The techniques used by in 2008? Turkish doctor Yusuf Sonmez was a full cooperation with Turkey for the donor victims that were the recruiters, the persons whose Jonathan Ratel: “I think the ini- in the Medicus transplants? and Israel based upon reciprocity recruited and transported here to enticed poor persons to agree to tial investigation was very diffi- Ratel: “At that time he was the requests for legal assistance. We the Medicus clinic and exploited sell their organs and for removal cult because of the way it began. It key surgeon and instrumental in met with the police and prosecu- for the removal of their organs.” of the organs at the Medicus clin- began very quickly and with some all organ transplants that took tors of both Israel and Turkey and PI: The verdict ordered com- ic, were much the same. There urgency at Prishtina International place. He is a fugitive from justice we had excellent cooperation with pensation to be paid to the vic- were false promises of payment, Airport with the medical distress and wanted by Interpol along both countries. That has resulted tims, but the Medicus clinic has coercion, fraud, and other devices of a young Turkish boy, Yilmaz with Moshe Harel. He is a notori- in indictments going forth in both been shut since 2008. How will used against them, including a Altun, who expressed that he need- ous organ trafficker from Turkey Turkey and Israel against several the money be found? tremendous pressure. These are ed assistance. He was examined by that we have been engaged in persons.” Ratel: “Let’s be clear that the seen in other trafficking a doctor at the airport and the seeking for a long period of time. PI: You have said that there building exists, the equipment and instances, including trafficking in police immediately realised that We do not know where he is at the will be further prosecutions in the medical setting exists. We have persons for the purpose of sexual something was very wrong; they present moment, but there is a the Medicus case. filed an application for confisca- slavery or prostitution – they use arrived at the Medicus clinic and theory that he might be in South Ratel: “I can confirm that the tion of that building, land, medical the exact same techniques.” seized the clinic. They found the Africa. We are making all efforts prosecutor has filed a further equipment and all its assets inside PI: The Medicus clinic was recipient of that illegal transplant to locate him; he is wanted on a investigation in this matter because the building was in total also mentioned in a Council of there.” red notice by Interpol, and he is against each suspect in Kosovo for closure under the court through Europe report, written by PI: In 2008, it was implied under indictment in Turkey for the activities of the Medicus clin- the entire investigation.” human rights rapporteur Dick that there was only one trans- offences arising from the Medicus ic. Those involve allegations of PI: Do you know anything Marty, which alleged that ele- plant operation at Medicus. clinic here.” organised crime, trafficking in about the health of those peo- ments of the Kosovo Liberation How did you find out that there PI: In 2008, Sonmez managed persons, abuse of office and other ple whose kidneys were Army traded the organs of were more than 24 transplants? to get a license from Kosovo’s related offences. But that is a new removed at the Medicus clinic? prisoners during the 1999 con- Ratel: “When the search was health ministry to work at the investigation against further sus- Ratel: “The health and security flict. However, the conducted at the Medicus clinic Medicus clinic. Was this accept- pects.” of the victims is of a great inter- Parliamentary Assembly of the and I have to say that that search able? PI: There have been rumours est to us. The victims suffered sig- Council of Europe did not per- was conducted because of urgency Ratel: “Well, I do not think that that some Kosovo politicians nificant physical impairment. mit Marty to testify at the but it was not conducted with a the authorities here may have could be under suspicion. Can Many of them, their lives, have Medicus trial. valid search warrant by the court. known his complete history, that you confirm that? been altered forever both physical- Ratel: “The court and the prose- That was a real problem. The he had run into difficulty with the Ratel: “I would not answer that, ly and psychologically. They have cutor agree that this is unfortu- urgency of the situation could criminal law in Turkey. Maybe sorry. I may not identify any sus- suffered immense pain, in some nate, because Dick Marty’s report have permitted the police to they were aware, I do not know. pects.” cases disfigurement, and their claims that he had direct causal search without a warrant; howev- But what I do know is that he was PI: The initial arrests were right to employment is severely evidence between the Medicus er, that was not requested and a licensed as a general surgeon, not criticised by Kosovo’s former limited. Some of them will live clinic and the allegations of the prosecutor’s order was not for organ transplants because this justice minister, Hajredin Kuqi. with this for the rest of their lives. human organ trafficking during requested and was not even given. is prohibited under the Kosovo Was this a form of pressure Accordingly, the court took the the [Kosovo] conflict, and we So this search went ahead without Health Act.” aimed at stopping the investiga- view and they rightly saw that would be very interested to hear any prior judicial authorisation PI: It’s believed that Sonmez tions in 2008? there should be compensation. from him.” whatsoever and that was a key was in Kosovo in 2008 but left Ratel: “I am not aware of those But, so too, the desperate recipi- PI: As a prosecutor, do you issue in the case. Why was it just before Medicus was raided. statements because I was not here ents of these organs, who were think that there is any rela- important? It was extremely Was he tipped off by someone? in Kosovo in 2008. I can advise that only concerned tionship between the Medicus important because there were doc- Ratel: “What we do know is that the past minister of justice was a with their case and the KLA allegations? uments, medical records, anesthe- from the time that Yilmaz Altun at witness in this matter and he gave own condi- Ratel: “Unfortunately, as a siology logs and surgical records the airport expressed his concern evidence, so were other senior offi- tion and prosecutor, I do not act on sus- that we desperately needed for the that he was in medical distress cials. That was part of the evi- ignored picions. I act on evidence and I case in order to ground these con- and was seen by a doctor at the air- dence. I can say that these matters where can tell you that at the end of victions.” port and the time that it took to and others will be looked at and these some four and a half years of PI: In 2008, Kosovo police police to arrive to Medicus was there is a further investigation by organs investigation and prosecu- arrested Moshe Harel, one of approximately just short of one the prosecutor with regard to were com- tion, I found no direct evi- the key suspects in this case. hour. We do not know what infor- activities of the Medicus clinic.” ing from, dence [of a link] between the Why was he released before he mation in that hour may have been PI: Were there any political are also in a two.” could be tried? given to the clinic; however, we are influences on this case or dur- sense vic- Ratel: “I do not know but I could concerned, as was the defence, ing the trial? say that Moshe Harel, the Israeli that a number of documents Ratel: “This prosecutor has not national, wanted now by Interpol, were missing from the clin- been influenced by politics at was released by an UNMIK judge ic: key surgical protocol all; that has not happened. I after 30 days’ custody. He was told books and records were cannot say about other investi- to return to Kosovo and face his missing. In addition, there gators or other individuals, but charges, but he never has.” were other documents I can say that I am not affected PI: Could you explain the role that would have assisted by any form of political pres- of Moshe Harel in this case? the prosecution and per- sure or concern.” Ratel: “Moshe Harel is a haps the defence, but PI: Will you appeal recruiter involved in the procure- those documents have against the April 29 ment, purchases, sale and trans- been removed from the verdict that con- plantation of human organs clinic. victed five men involved in the illegal internation- “We have no record including the al trade in body parts. He is a key of [Sonmez] exiting owner of person in arranging logistics, this country. There is a Medicus of money, wire transfers, travel and Y theory that he may organised meetings between patients and M have used a rented crime and donor victims. At that time, he was C car and exited by K a resident in Israel and transited land through a small EULEX prosecutor Jonathan Ratel. news May 10 - 23, 2013 11

EULEX Launches New Probe After Medicus Editor’s Word The New Yorker Convictions Treatment After five men were convicted of involvement in the illegal osovo’s organs scandals trading of human organs from a Kosovo clinic, EU prosecu- reached a milestone as they tors said they were investigating eight new suspects. Kgot The New Yorker treat- ment. in 2008. Nicholas Schmidle’s piece, The conviction of the five “Bringing up the Bodies,” came out Kosovo citizens on Monday By Marija Ristic drew no official reaction from just before the Medicus verdicts. and Edona Peci Prishtina, but Belgrade’s The 8,400-word story is a com- deputy war crimes prosecutor pelling read and a great piece of welcomed the verdict. journalism. It explores the depths of he EU rule of law mission “It is very important as this the accusations that Kosovo in Kosovo said last week is the first time that a verdict Liberation Army members, in 1999, Tthat it was launching a new for organ trafficking in Kosovo killed prisoners in Albania to har- investigation into people suspect- has been reached, and it also EULEX is investigating eight more people in the Medicus case. vest and sell their organs as well as ed of involvement in the organ- accepted the prosecution’s the more recent case of illicit kidney trading ring that operated from arguments that it is organised ment, suspended for two years. Police initially raided the transplants at the Medicus clinic. the Medicus clinic outside crime and not medical malprac- Belgrade believes that the clinic in 2008 after a Turkish The Medicus case - while certainly Prishtina in 2008, a day after the Medicus case is a part of broad- man whose kidney had been tice,” deputy prosecutor Bruno complicated - was always more clear high-profile convictions of five er criminal operation that removed was found seriously Vekaric told Serbian media. cut, as evidenced by the recent guilty people involved with the clinic. included Kosovo Liberation ill at Prishtina airport. The court in Prishtina found verdicts. Investigators and prosecu- “The eight individuals are Army members who are Two foreign suspects in the the former owner of the tors had the donors, the recipients being investigated for the crimi- claimed to have harvested the case - Turkish doctor Yusuf Medicus clinic, Lutfi Dervishi, and the clearly identifiable perpetra- nal offences of organised crime, organs of prisoners during and Sonmez and Moshe Harel, an guilty of organised crime and tors, as well as physical evidence at trafficking in persons, grievous after the conflict with Serbian Israeli citizen - are still listed people-trafficking, sentenced the clinic itself. The KLA organ alle- bodily harm, abusing official forces in 1999. as wanted by Interpol but him to eight years in prison gations, however, have always been position of authority, fraud and The allegations are based on remain at large. trading in influence,” the EU and imposed a fine of 10,000 a 2010 report by Dick Marty, the According to the indictment, piecemeal - with no smoking gun. mission, EULEX, said in a state- euro. Council of Europe’s human Sonmez was a transplant sur- Schmidle essentially debunked ment. His son Arban Dervishi was rights rapporteur, in which he geon “involved in the interna- the most compelling evidence thus The statement said that the found guilty of the same alleged that some elements of tional trade in human organs, far: an account from a purported for- new inquiry was based on reve- charges and sentenced to seven the KLA, including Kosovo the procurement and purchase mer KLA fighter who claimed to lations arising from investiga- years and three months in Prime Minister Hasim Tachi, and sale of body parts and the have removed a still-beating heart tions and from information prison, and fined 2,500 euro. had been involved in organ recruitment of persons for the from a Serb prisoner. that came out at the trial which Both of them were ordered to trafficking. removal and harvest of Readers, however, likely will fin- suggested that the men who pay compensation of 15,000 Marty was invited to testify organs”. ish Schmidle’s story feeling that were convicted had help from euro to each of around seven at the Medicus trial, but the Harel was “the key recruiter there may be at least some credibili- others in order to traffic vic- victims of the organ-traffick- Parliamentary Assembly of the and fixer” for the trafficking ty to the KLA organ-trafficking alle- tims and sell their organs. ing ring. Council of Europe declined to ring, the indictment said. gations. The trafficking ring lured The clinic’s head anaes- Many of the key facts in the story, poor donors to the Medicus thetist Sokol Hajdini was found discuss the lifting of his immu- The indictment alleged that such as the so-called Yellow House in clinic with false promises of guilty of grievous bodily harm nity, thereby preventing him preparations for the organ-traf- lucrative payments, removed and sentenced to three years in from appearing. ficking operation began in 2006 Albania where the organ harvesting their kidneys and sold them to prison, while assistant anaes- The EULEX prosecutor in the when Dervishi made direct con- is alleged to have taken place, have rich patients. Around 30 illegal thetists Islam Bytyqi and Medicus case said that trans- tact with Sonmez and soon after been previously reported elsewhere - kidney transplants are alleged Sylejman Dula were convicted plant recipients, mainly “began to plan and deliberate, this newspaper included. But their to have taken place at the clinic of grievous bodily harm and Israelis, paid more than 70,000 in concert together, to perform appearance in The New Yorker gives sentenced to a year’s imprison- euro for the kidneys. organ transplants in Kosovo.” them added weight. As Schmidle noted in a blog post, in the wake of the Medicus verdicts, the Kosovo Prepares to Legalize Organ Transplants convictions for the illegal kidney from page 1 Rudhani said, cautioning that 30,000 euro and the suspension transplants at the Prishtina clinic implementation of the transplant Transplant centre and possible removal of medical have also lent weight to the KLA accu- Meanwhile people like E.K. law will take time. envisaged: licenses. sations by confirming that there was can’t get a new kidney in Kosovo More than 680 people receive Private clinic and hospitals an established illicit organ-traffick- legally. dialysis at Rudhani’s clinic regu- could also receive licenses to per- The bill governing organ trans- ing operation in Kosovo. But that may change this year larly, and according to the physi- form transplants, according to plants, if adopted, envisages a Indeed, recent reports in the The as the Kosovo Assembly consid- cian, most are potential candi- the bill. robust national organ transplant Independent and several Kosovo ers a bill proposed by the dates for kidney transplants - the The prospect of private clinics programme with detailed guide- newspapers have alleged that Shaip Ministry of Health. most commonly performed organ performing organ transplants lines laid out in 10 chapters and Muja, a PDK MP and former health The bill, which the Ministry transplant worldwide. has drawn concern from the EU 76 articles. adviser to Prime Minister Hashim expects to become law during the He said about 80 of his patients rule-of-law mission, EULEX. A State Transplant Center Thaci, is one of the targets of a sec- second half of this year, would have gone abroad for kidney EULEX declined to discuss its would be established to organise ond wave of investigations into the make organ transplants legal. transplants. concerns about the bill with and coordinates transplants Medicus case. Muja testified in the Currently, an administrative Prishtina Insight. under the auspices of the recent trial, admitting to meeting the Transplants matching EU guideline under the Ministry of The mission, however, took the Ministry of Health. Medicus doctors but denying any Health provides for arranging lead role in prosecuting the case standards: Selling organs is forbidden in organ transplants outside Kosovo. of the illegal kidney transplants knowledge about the organ traffick- Kosovo. Donations from the But the Office of the Auditor at the private Medicus clinic. ing. Dr Ibrahim Rudhani, director deceased are only permitted General in 2010 and 2011 found The deputy head of the health Muja is himself no stranger to of Nephrology at the University where there was prior written numerous problems in the trans- commission, Time Kadrijaj, said dodgy dealings. He's been accused of Clinical Centre, Kosovo’s main consent or credible statements plant scheme. EULEX’s apparent concerns illegally usurping public land and public hospital, said the bill would from family members that con- The auditors cited procedural would not lead to any immediate evading taxes, among other allega- improve the quality of lives of firm that a person wanted to violations in how people were changes in the bill. tions. people who need transplants donate their organs. selected for the programme - “The law is being drafted in Muja’s name has also surfaced in because it will shorten the wait- The bill calls for stringent namely that transplants were not commissions and is not for a pub- the much-politicized 2010 Council of ing times. oversight, including random always arranged based on need. In lic hearing. EULEX should bring Europe report by the Swiss politician “Organ transplants in Kosovo inspections by the Ministry of some cases, they were done with- detailed proposals, in articles Dick Marty concerning allegations of could be done according to Health. Violations of the law out documentation showing that a and points, which we can incor- European Union standards,” would result in fines of up to organ harvesting by the KLA, sug- person needed an organ. porate in the bill,” Kadrijaj said. gesting a possible connection between the two cases. Muja has vehe- Editor-in-Chief: Parim Olluri, Jeton Musliu and Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” mently denied the allegations con- Artan Mustafa Donjeta Demolli. Arben Grajqevci cerning the KLA organ trafficking. [email protected] While there remain many unan- Marketing, Sales & Printing: Lindi Printing Center swered questions and allegations that Publisher: BIRN • Balkan Investigative Reporting Editorial Team: are as yet unsubstantiated, it is clear Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, Distribution: Copyright © BIRN Network • Mensa e Studenteve, first floor • 10000, that the concerns about organ traf- [email protected] Prishtina • Kosovo • Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 Nate Tabak, Petrit Collaku, www.prishtinainsight.com ficking are unlikely to go away. 12 May 10 - 23, 2013 news

Origins of Donors: Israel (4), Turkey (3), Moldova (1), Belarus (1), Russia (3), Ukraine (2), Kazakhstan (1), Unknown (9) Origins of Recipients : Israel (14), Turkey (1), Ukraine (1), Poland (1), Canada (1), Germany (1), Unknown (5)

Medicus: Kidneys for Sale

Medicus: How it unfolded

March 8, 2008 – First transplant takes place at Medicus clinic per- formed by six doctors, Yusuf Sonmez, Kenan Demirkol, Lutfi Dervishi, Sokol Hajdini, Sylejman Dulla and Islam Bytyqi. The team at the clinic, per- formed 24 kidney transplantations, until November, according to court records. November 4, 2008 – A kidney provider from Turkey, Yilmaz Altun, loses consciousness at Prishtina's airport and tells UN police he had his kidney removed. EULEX police raid the Medicus clinic and arrest Lutfi Dervishi, his son Arban and Tun Pervofaj, a urologist working at clinic. Later on, Sokol Hajdini, Islam Bytyqi and Sylejmand Dula, all anaesthesiologists at Medicus, are arrested. November 2010 – EULEX brings indictments against the operators of Medicus. December 2010 – The human rights rapporteur at Council of Europe, Dick Marty, reports that there is “credible, conver- gent indications" that the removal of organs from prisoners in Albania by the Kosovo Liberation Army is "closely related to the contemporary case of the Medicus clinic". January 2011 – Turkish Doctor Yusuf Somnez is detained in Istanbul but released on bail. He admits to having worked in Kosovo at the Medicus clinic but denies links to the KLA allegations. April 2013 – Court in Prishtina issues guilty verdicts against Lutfi Dervishi, Arban Dervishi, Sokol Hajdini, Islam Bytyqi and Sylejman Dula. May 2013 – EULEX announces that it’s launching a new investi- gation into others suspected of being involved in the organ-trafficking ring that operated out of Medicus. news May 10 - 23, 2013 13

Medicus

Kidneys Converge on Kosovo During 2008, at the Medicus clinic in Prishtina, at least 24 kidneys were illegally transplanted from largely poor peo- ple from Eastern Europe and Central Asia to wealthier Y recipients. Donors were paid a small fraction of what M C Medicus charged the kidney recipients. K 14 May 10 - 23, 2013 culture Foltin and the Art of Private Folklore The band from Macedonia describe their approach to music as an irrational process of creating a ‘private folklore’ out of their impressions and dreams, and their latest album as a tonic for apathy and depression.

By Nemanja Cabric

n their new album Antitelo (Antibody), Foltin continues to Icombine elements of main- stream and alternative Macedonian and World music, experimenting both with acoustic and electric instruments. In a career that began in 1995 in Bitola, in southwest Macedonia, they have recorded seven studio albums, performed in more than 50 plays and recorded soundtracks for several movies and videos. The most recent plays they per- Foltin hail from Bitola, Macedonia. formed in are Misterij Buffo, pro- duced by SNG Drama from speaks about the life, energy and cians: Pece Nikolovski (clarinet, musical blend reflects their differ- and those from different Ljubljana, and Odysseus by the passion that people need to sur- chaos pad); Branislav Nikolov ent personalities and common European countries with modern Ulisses Theatre of Brijuni, vive. (vocals, guitar); Pece Trajkovski approach to music, which is based ones, various languages - some of Croatia. The 20-minute album, according (accordion, keys, percussion, gui- on creating an original sound, which do not even exist - and sto- With their jazzy Balkan music, to Branislav Nikolov, sends a mes- tar); Goce Jovanoski (bass); Slavco instead of borrowing existing gen- ries that mostly speak of love full of improvisation and electro- sage that a person needs to be Jovev (drums); Marjan Stanic res. between imagined characters. like sound and rhythms, they have strong, “to think with his own (percussion). “It is more of a combination of Some are inspired by artworks performed across the region and head and act according to it as well According to them, the album characters than musical genres,” such as poems or books, or by Europe. as sustain wounds that will help continues a quest to be fresh and Trajkovski says. social ideas. Foltin sometimes describe their one to better feel the passion of original and combine Macedonian “We never thought of following Nikolov, the lead singer, saying style as “pseudo-emigrant life. traditional themes with world existing musical patterns. Too me that it is an oxymoron to be “main- cabaret”, not wanting to identify “Antitelo (Antibody) means that music, acoustic and electro it would be absurd, as the band’s stream alternative”, explains that with most of the existing genres in if we are weak and succumb to sounds, using readymade instru- identity has been built over years, the band were always drawn both music. Their concerts often turn apathy, then we encourage the ments and lyrics inspired by local accumulating experiences from by influences from both East and into real performances, character- forces that will destroy us. Just and international poets. concerts and theatre plays,“ he West. ized by an almost frantic dance like in the blood,” he explains. says. “To begin with, we wanted in atmosphere. Mainstream alternative: Each of the seven albums is an our small Macedonia to live the Antitelo, (Antibody), their sev- The album was recorded by a artistic whole that combines life of world adventurers and enth album, released last year, crew of six professional musi- The band explain that their rhythms traditional to Macedonia Mediterranean sailors,” he says. “Afterwards, we tried to play elec- tronic music strictly with acoustic instruments.” Jovanoski describes this as “the need to escape from the common genre divisions and place our- selves in a more artistic medium. “We are transferring our impressions, feelings and dreams into music and that includes the instruments and vocals, as well as various other objects that serve as the source of sound.” “We never wanted an album that would be a bunch of random songs put together by chance,” Nikolov says. “Everything we do is a complete- ly polished work of art. In a way they are ‘movies’ with content built up with care,” Nikolov adds. “Those are mostly love stories, with made-up characters. Any similarity with reality is coinci- dental,” Trajkovski notes. Experimental sounds:

Besides including interesting and fresh ideas in their songs, drawing from such sources as the Y French Poet Pierre de Ronsard, Russian-American writer M Vladimir Nabokov or the C Macedonian poet Blaze Koneski, K The band utilizes experimental sounds. culture May 10 - 23, 2013 15 the band is recognizable for their musical recalls. experiments. “Guys from the theatre heard the noise, marketing They are famous for using readymade and here we are,” he adds. “We are happy to “instruments”, or creating ambient sounds use some natural sounds when we can.” from objects with unmusical primal func- Nikolov explains the band’s urge to play tions, constructing musical sculptures and with words, rhythms and sounds as a “way installations. towards some kind of a private folklore”. One of the most famous is the typewriter Jovanoski adds that “musical research used as a percussion in the song “Milice”, and experiment are a common interest for from the fourth album, Lo-Lee-Ta-Too people that work in theatre, in musicals, (2005). It brought them immense popularity movies and other performing arts. at home, as it is a remake of a traditional “We are especially present in theatre as Macedonian song with the same name but we record music for many plays as well as done in a new manner. performing live, which is a combination of Nikolov explains that their musical musical, visual, acting element and scenog- career began with improvisation, which raphy.” remains an important pillar of their work. Every album is a different adventure, “In the beginning we had a great desire, Trajkovski concludes, and is “navigated but no means, or instruments, so we made a solely by the heart, and that is never some- noise with anything we would find,” he thing rational”.

marketing

Swiss hospitality, comfort and design A place to relax in the calm and clean air of the countryside, just 15 minutes from Prishtina city center, 500 m from the center of Gracanica and its UNESCO World Heritage monastery and a short walk to the archeological site of Ulpiana. Offering 5 single, 7 double rooms and 3 studios as well as two meeting rooms (16 / 6 p.), the boutique hotel designed by architect Bujar Nrecaj combines con- temporary architecture with traditional elements to create a unique atmosphere that will make you feel at home. Enjoy the garden with its swimming pool filled with mineral water and the view over fields and hills, explore the surroundings on foot or mountain bike or visit other places of interest in Kosovo with one of our organized thematic tours.

Other amenities include:

• bar/restaurant with open fire place • half board with local and vegetarian dishes available • free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel • free mobile phones • small gym • mineral water fountain • art exhibitions and other cultural events • two meeting rooms (16 / 6 people)

+381 (0)38 729 888 (landline) [email protected] +386 (0)49 764 000 (mobile) www.hotelgracanica.com Y Skype: hotel.gracanica www.facebook.com/HotelGracanica M C K 16 May 10 - 23, 2013 Guide

Here is Prishtina Insight’s guide to the best places in town to eat, drink, shop and be merry. We’ll keep this section updated with the newest and coolest places

town. Select a booth, ask the amiable staff to seat, if you intend to make a night of it. Next opening in Kosovo. tune into your match and grab a 'double to A&A restaurant and has round windows. decker' or 'triple burger', which look like Opens: 8pm-to late. Shut on Sundays. Restaurants: community of Kosovo. If you are acquaint- American fast-food classics but taste better. ed with Thai food, you're not in for any sur- Friday night Karaoke is a must-see, must- prises here, with the typical assortment of Fastfood: Liburnia 1 and 2 sing event. curries, salads and deep fried treats, deliv- Rr Meto Bajraktar, tel. +381 (0)38 222 719. Hard Rockers Club ered to decent standards. At 7 or 8 euro for a There are actually two Liburnias opposite Road Ilaz Kodra, contact: vraja_fatos@ hot- Bel Ami main course, it's relatively pricey compared each other, both very similar in style and mail.com. It's one of the few places in Rr Luan Haradinaj, Tel: +377 (0)44 133 848, to its neighbours. Open Monday-Thursday food. Housed in a fine Ottoman abode and Prishtina where you can catch regular live +386 49 133 848. The ideal town-centre stop 11:00-14:00 and 17:45-22:30; Friday-Sunday surrounded by pleasant walled gardens, acts and the only place which caters for for a quick lunch or takeaway snack, Bel 11:00-23:00. Liburnia oozes atmosphere, whether in win- those who like their rock served up heavy, or Ami unceremoniously serves some of the ter or summer. The food is a roll call of hard. On a quiet night, it's quite a comfort- best chicken doner in Prishtina in a surpris- Renaissance II decent traditional Albanian food, including able venue to grab a beer, even if you are not ingly un-greasy, smoke-free environment. Rr. George Bush (behind the Pro Credit Bank the usual stews (tave) and grilled meat. It’s being entertained by hirsute musicians . Ask for a “komplet” to get the classic doner HQ), tel. +377 (0)44 118 796. Renaissance not the best place in town to sample local packed with salad and sauces and wrapped offers arguably the best overall dining expe- delicacies, but a good choice given the set- The Cuban in tin foil. Monday-Friday 9 am - 7.30 pm; rience in Prishtina. It's quite an experience ting. Open 8 am - 11 pm Road Luan Haradinaj Tel: +377(0) 45 620 620. Saturday 9 am - 8 pm. just to find the place. Tucked away along a This is a decent addition to the city's drink- tiny alleyway, you enter the homely, stone Country House ing scene, even if the place can be full of building through heavy wooden doors. It's Clubs: Off road to Podujevo from Pristina, right spivs and tarts who aren't going to a fancy- 15 euro per head, and for that you will be after the Muciqi Mercedes-Benz garage, tel. dress party. The Cuban-themed décor is kept fed, watered and supplied with booze P1 +377 (0)44 656 054. This rustic restaurant is decadent Havana, the food is average, and for at least a three course meal, including a Fehmi Agani, +377 (0)44 608 669. If you’re a 15-minute drive outside Pristina (on a not very Caribbean, but the cocktails are wonderful meze starter and a delicious looking for cool, then P1 is probably not good day) and provides glorious views good. 8 am - 1 am. main course cooked on embers. Open 11 am the spot for you. The decor is pretty unin- across rolling, verdant hills and is especial- spiring, the music is bog standard and the - 11 pm. Xhoni’s Bar ly pleasant place in the summer to watch atmosphere reminiscent of a cattle mar- Rexhep Mala, Pristina, tel. +377 (0)44 750 720. the sunset. The overall food quality is ket. But if your thing is scantily clad Bars: Xhoni’s is, without doubt, a Prishtina insti- decent, with special marks for the fresh young women or packs of amorous boys, tution. It’s small, friendly and smoky, plays bread, straight from the wood stove, and than it’s an excellent choice. And, in the excellent soul, disco and classic rock music speca me maze (peppers in cream). 10 am - Tapë venue’s defence, it does have a pleasant from vinyl and is open until the last man or 11 pm. Hajdar Dushi Street Nr. 2 (next to Zani Bar, outdoor area for summer dancing. woman staggers out. Arrive by 11pm at the Kada Books, in front of the Radio Working hours Wednesday, Friday, weekend to secure a corner, or even better a Princesha Gresa Dukagjini). Tapë — which means “cork” in Saturday from 9 pm to 3 am. 23 Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +381 (0) 38 24 58 41. If Albanian but is often used to denote you have a horse-size hole in your stomach extreme drunkenness — is a bar with a to fill, this is the place to come. The meal warm atmosphere in Prishtina’s centre. It starts with some free bread and dips and is serves homemade rakia, as well as a variety followed by gargantuan portions of salad, of beers and other liquors, and, of course, meat, fish, or anything else on this varied Stone Castle wine - all at reasonable prices. menu. The food is sometimes great, some- times average but always served in massive Crème de la Crème portions. Open 10 am - 11 pm. Rr Robert Doll, tel. +377(0)44259912. Crème is probably the best all-round bar in the city. Hemingway It's run for the amusement of the young, Rr Ilaz Kodra, tel. +386 (0)49 145 637. Yes, you arty owners and not for profit, which can get fresh sea fish in landlocked Kosovo. explains the more-than-generous pricing Hemingway is tucked away in an unappeal- arrangements, especially for the perfectly ing end of the city but worth a trip if you executed cocktails. Its five tiny floors heave are craving food of the piscine variety. It's a on Fridays and Sundays with Pristina's cool pretty basic sort of set-up and relatively to the variety of beats. Every Wednesday, expensive for the setting, but undoubtedly Friday and Saturday from 8pm to 3am. one of the best places in town for fish. Open 9 am - 11 pm Filikaqa Rr Mujo Ulqinaku BL 4/1, Pejton, website Le Siam Thai www.filikaqa.com; 038 244 288. Whistle, as it Rr Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 (0)45 243 588. translates from Albanian, offers a dizzying Stylishly designed and smoke-free, Le Siam array of televisions on which to watch your has become a real hit for the international sport of choice and eat the best burgers in Hot Food: VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT (ABOVE), Rruga Garibaldi, Behind Metro Caffe. Tingell-Tengell’s short-lived but much loved vegetarian menu gets a restaurant of its own. It doesn’t have a name, and it’s delicious. There’s falafel, hummus, baba ghanouj and more. The stew is also luxurious. All the food is under 5 euro. The bar also fea- tures a few whiskies you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Prishtina, as well as an allegedly 36-year-old rakia. The space also feels like home, in that down-to-earth hipster sort of way. The only quibble is the bread, which is a rather basic white bread that’s toasted and garnished with herbs. It doesn’t do justice to the otherwise spectac- ular fare. Don’t miss the poppyseed cake, either. - Gravlax

FRESCO (LEFT). Rr. Fehmi Agani. The newest eatery to hit Prishtina’s fine-dining scene, Fresco has designs on being one of its best. Forgive the excessive interior design - the food is is elegant and simple, with a gastronomic sense that in-step with the times. The salmon filet (11.50 euro) is a standout: succulent and flavorful, appear- ing alongside a sweet potato puree and tempura-fried zucchini. The steaks are perfect, too. +377 (0) 44 333 772.

PAPIRUN Tel. 045 26 23 23. Papirun has seating at two perpendicular counters in what’s basically a hole-in-the-wall just off Mother Teresa Boulevard, near the Grand Hotel. The menu has 13 options: 6 pizzas and seven sandwiches. The sandwiches are Y the stars, though. Every component is handled with care. The bread alone is good M enough to make just about any sandwich into a glorious feast. It’s freshly baked and seasoned with rosemary. C K May 10 - 23, 2013 17 Guide Contact Prishtina Insight if you would like your event to feature or to advertise your venue. Email [email protected]

Where to pick up Prishtina Insight?

Prishtina Insight has teamed up with these excellent venues to offer a limited Hotel Prishtina number of complimentary copies of Kosovo’s only English-language newspaper. Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charming guest rooms and suites are Grab a copy of the publication and settle down with a drink or a meal to read it. reminiscent of a small hotel in the European tradition. You'll immediately feel at home in our living room, sipping a glass of wine in our fine restaurant surrounded by a gallery of paintings by local artists. The hotel offers free, fast wifi internet, complimentary breakfast, Papillon Bistro Bar conference room, swimming pool, sauna and laundry service. Hotel Prishtina, This newly reopened bar in Prishtina, Papillon, offers St. Vaso Pasha nr. 20 more than 60 types of wines from France, Italy, Spain, +381 38 / 22 32 84 and Kosovo with great prices and delicious dishes. They serve pasta, sandwiches, salads and different appetizers. You can also try different types of local or internation- al beers. The bar, with it’s stunning new design, is located in the centre of Prishtina, near ProCredit Bank headquar- ter, RTK radio centre, and the Mother Teresa cathedral.

Papillon Mother Teresa Str. Nr. 51 A [email protected] 044 103 310

Hotel AFA Hotel Gracanica Located in a quiet neighbourhood just A place to relax in the calm and clean outside the city centre, Hotel Afa can air of the country side, just 15 minutes- guarantee guests a peaceful night while from Prishtina city center, 500 m from being within walking distance of all the the center of Gracanica and its UNESCO action. The venue has won a host of World Heritage monastery and a short awards for its excellent service to cus- walk to the archeological site of tomers and offers a good range of facili- Ulpiana. Offering 5 single, 7 double ties, from an exclusive restaurant and rooms, 3 studios as well as two meeting VIP bar to pretty, tranquil gardens. rooms (16 / 6 p.), the boutique hotel com- Rooms start at 45 euro for a single, and bines contemporary architecture with- luxury rooms and apartments are avail- traditional elements to create a unique able. The hotel’s rooms are well appoint- atmosphere that will make you feel at ed and comfortable. home. +381 (0)38 729 888 (landline) 15, Rr Ali Kelmendi, +386 (0)49 764 000 Sunny Hill, Prishtina [email protected] +381 38/225 226 www.hotelgracanica.com www. hotelafa. com www.facebook.com/HotelGracanica

Paddy O’Brien’s A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. The Ninety One

The staff at After ten years of making pizza in Napoli, and The Ninety One (91-shi) is back with its new Paddy O’Brien’s with only love to blame, Fatmir, the head chef, location and old tradition. The owners and the have a saying: “It’s returned to Prishtina. His pizzas, made in a wood- staff are the same. Daily specials are changed on easy to walk in, but burn stove, are definitely genuine napolitanas. a daily basis. The breakfast is still served as usual very hard to leave.” Fatmir also has several delicious pastas on offer, a while the coffee is served with delicious home- And with its true joy for the taste buds. Napoli has an excellent made almond biscotti. Breakfast menu includes; warm atmosphere, selection of red and white wines or, for the more English breakfast, French toast croissants, puff fantastic range of ambitious, one of the region's best quince raki. pastries and omelettes with your choice of top- drinks and excel- Napoli makes for delicious lunch, dinner or even pings. The new menu dishes include: roast fillet of lent food, it is easy after-theatre time out in the centre of Prishtina. beef served with spinach potatoes & wine, to see why. Chicken and confit garlic in bed of mash & thyme There have been Pizzeria Napoli juice. Dessert are served and garnished with fresh many attempts to off Luan Haradinaj, opposite Newborn herbs and are all home made. Lemon tart and establish a proper 044/409-402402 Chocolate mouse is a must try. The kitchen is Irish pub in open every day until 11:00 pm. Prishtina, but this Fehmi Agani str., 29/2 (Te kafet e vogla) is the only one to - 044 91 91 91 - hit the spot. From classic coffees to cocktails, via, of course, Guinness, you really wont find it difficult to select the perfect drink. A mouth-watering menu of Irish specialties is also on offer, spanning from all-day breakfasts to Irish stews at night. Options include shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, fish ‘n chips, and whopping great burgers. Thursday is pub quiz night, but there is always something going on at the pub, whether it is sport screenings or just a good shindig. Paddy O’Brien’s Tringe Smajli Street, by the Illyria Hotel Y Prishtina: 045-420900 M C K 18 May 10 - 23, 2013 timeout

Theatre

“The Croods” 3D “The last station” “As if this was a show” Every day at 4pm Every Thursday at 8pm Every Wednesday at 8pm The Croods is a pre- The story is situated in the "In the bus no. 4...during historic comedy adventure that fol- year 2015. Nowadays and past the war in Prishtina ...a lows the world's first problems are carried in the 26 years old - young family as they year of 2015. Burim is the man...is wearing jeans embark on a journey main character who is looking and a black T-shirt... At of a lifetime when the for the truth, for his family "Union" hotel...sniper cave that has always and his fiancé, which are still breaks a window... and shielded them from missing since the war of KLA the youngster is shot in danger is destroyed. ended. After many attempts he the neck... A lady dressed Traveling across a finds out that his neighbour is in white, who was stand- spectacular land- still alive and that he knows ing near him starts to scape, the Croods dis- cover an incredible more about his family. Burim scream. When she sees new world filled with can’t live in the present; he is always going back to the the blood in her shirt she fantastic creatures -- past, in the memories of his family and Behare, his faints... two hours and their outlook is fiancé. Halfway he meets a young girl called Shpresa later...she is seen at the Big Mosque...near café changed forever. who reminds him of Behare and finally gets part of "Romantika", but this time accompanied by a friend Director: Kirk De Micco, Chris Sanders Burim’s life. younger than her... Writers: Chris Sanders, Kirk De Micco etc. Based on the novel “Birds fly on their own” by Ibrahim Based on the drama by: Almir Imshireviq Starring: Nicolas Cage, Emma Stone, Ryan Kadriu. Directed by Agon Myftari Reynolds. Directed by Lirak Celaj and Florent Mehmeti Cast: Rebeka Qena, Ardian Morina, Armend Ismajli, Cast: Besnik Krapi, Liridona Shehu, Ilire Celaj, Adrian Besnik Krapi Morina, Eshref Durmishi and Kushtrim Sheremeti.

“Broken City” Stand-up comedy with Adem Every day at 8pm Mikullovci 8pm Saturday, 18 May In a city rife with “Rabbit hole” injustice, ex-cop Billy 8pm Wednesday, 15 May By David Lindsay – Abaire Taggart seeks 8pm Friday, 10 May (Small stage) Premiere “Narnia” Director: Zana Hoxha Krasniqi redemption and “The killing of the mosquito” “The lion, the witch and the revenge after being By Xhevdet Bajraj double-crossed and wardrobe” by C.S. Lewis 8pm Monday, 20 May Director: Donard Hasani then framed by its Director: Arjeta Ajeti @ Antti “The clashes” most powerful figure: Sevanto By Ekrem Kryeziu Mayor Nicholas 8pm Saturday, 11 May (Small stage) Hostetler. “The killing of the mosquito” 8pm Thursday, 16 May 8pm Tuesday, 21 May Director: Allen By Xhevdet Bajraj “Narnia” “A tomb for the King’s Mayor” Hughes Director: Donard Hasani Writers: Brian Screenplay by “The lion, the witch By Haqif Mulliqi Tucker and the wardrobe” - C.S. Lewis 8pm Monday, 13 May (Small stage) Starring: Mark Director: Arjeta Ajeti @ Antti 8pm Wednesday, 22 May “The listener” Wahlberg, Russell Sevanto Concert by “Shota” - National Stand-up comedy with Adem Crowe, Catherine Ensemble of Songs and Dances Zetha-Jones Mikullovci 8pm Friday, 17 May “Don Quixote” 8pm Thursday, 23 May 8pm Tuesday, 14 May (Small stage) Choreograph: Israel Rodriguez “Where the light falls” ballet “The listener” “Love in Cursed Mountains Choreograph Antonio Pio Fini II” (Albanian) Every day at 8pm and 10pm Prishtina Diary The fable of this Punkt ers, 3D animators, documentari- movie enterprise 9 pm Friday, 10 May ans, musicians, DJs and VJs. lies from the post- “European Souvenirs” war period in European Souvenirs is a major Shallter Kosovo, Cursed Mountains, and New live-cinema performance by Saturday, 18 May York and beautiful Karol Rakowski (PL), Barış Quf Quf Party parts of Albania. Gürsel (TR), Farah Rahman (NL), Shallter, will organize a special Director: Ekrem Malaventura (ES) and Noriko event, on a train, next Saturday. - Friday, 10.05.2013 Kryeziu Okaku (JP/UK) There’ll be a tour, great music. 7.30 pm – 8pm Offical opening of the Starring: Diellza Curated by Spanish artists and At 12:30 we will depart from Kolgeci, Florian Polip festival remix experts of ZEMOS98, Shallter for Peja. 14:40 we arrive Agaliu, Jahja Shehu, 8pm – 12am Readings Nimon Mucaj, European Souvenirs will be cre- in Peja - a pause held, followed by - Saturday, 11.05.2013 Klodian Hoxha, ated by an artistic ensemble of an appetizer and music. At 16:00 2pm – 3pm Public presentation of ------five European media-makers that we go back to Prishtina. the performance “Internally ------were born during the decades of DJ: Jimmy Hagan [US] Displaced” Soon: “Star Trek into Darkness” 3D, Epic” 3D the 1980’s and later in Spain, DJ: Nino Flooder [Macedonia] and “After Earth” 3pm – 4.30pm Panel I: “The litera- Poland, UK, Turkey and the DJ: Alien no.155 [Albania] ture market in Germany and the lit- Netherlands. They have different Party will continue on Shallter's erature of the Balkans” For any further questions or reservations call at 038 243 profiles complementing each terrace. 5pm – 6.30 pm Panel II: “Literature 238 or visit them at www.kinoabc.com other as media artists, perform- Ticket: 6 Euros. and the unknown Others” 8pm – 12am Readings - Sunday, 12.05.2013 The Gallery of the Ministry of Culture 3pm – 4.30 pm Public presentation and performances: 7pm Thursday, 16 May You are invited to the opening ceremony 16.05.2013 at 19.00, at the Gallery of the Y 5pm – 6.30 pm Panel III: Does a post Petrit Ukëhajdaraj – “Fragments” of the photographer Petrit Ukëhajdaraj. Ministry of Culture, “Qafa” complex, M YU literature exist? Personal exhibition The opening ceremony will be held on Prishtina. C 8pm – 12am Readings K international May 10 - 23, 2013 19 Pay to Prescribe? Two Dozen Doctors Named in Novartis Kickback Case backs — cash, meals and versy — as ProPublica has favors to relatives — to doc- extensively reported. Our tors who prescribed the com- Dollars for Docs database by Theodoric Meyer, pany’s drugs. tracks $2 billion in payments ProPublica Last week, the Department to doctors from 15 drug com- of Justice joined the whistle- panies, including Novartis. blower lawsuit, which was All but one have settled gov- n Jan. 23, 2008, the phar- originally filed in 2011 by ernment lawsuits alleging maceutical company Oswald Bilotta, a former improper marketing practices. Novartis threw a party at O A number of the doctors Novartis sales representative a restaurant on Long Island. The on Long Island. “Novartis named in the Novartis case party, which cost $1,250, was have received substantial ostensibly for doctors to learn corrupted the prescription about cardiovascular drugs made drug dispensing process with sums since 2009, Dollars for by the company, with Novartis multi- million dollar ‘incentive Docs shows, including one sales representatives present as programs’ that targeted doc- physician who was paid more well. tors who, in exchange for than $150,000 combined from But no doctors ever came, illegal kickbacks, steered six different drug companies. according to a whistleblower patients toward its drugs,” Historically, the doctors lawsuit against Novartis that Preet Bharara, the U.S. attor- cited in cases alleging was unsealed last week. ney for the Southern District improper marketing have not Instead, nine sales reps ran of New York, said in a state- faced consequences. A up the tab, and the company ment. ProPublica investigation in Zometa is one of Novartis’ biggest sellers. (Neofedex/Flickr) wrote an honorarium check to Novartis has disputed the 2011 found that none of more and doctors would be paid nal medicine specialist in Dr. Robert Nissan, a Long government’s allegations of than 75 doctors named in even if they didn’t show up. Island family practitioner wrongdoing;; Nissan did not lawsuits since 2008 had been Port Jefferson Station, N.Y., who wasn’t present, the law- return several requests for sanctioned, despite charges of “So long as a physician was who was also named in the suit alleges. comment. fraud or conduct that put writing Lotrel prescriptions,” case, told ProPublica he had- The party, the lawsuit Whether such payments by patients at risk. it says, “he or she could n’t taken any kickbacks and maintains, was one of drug companies to physicians Generally, payments like expect to be paid.” didn’t know of Long Island “countless” events held by are kickbacks or a legitimate those in Dollars for Docs Thousands of doctors took doctors who had. Novartis over a decade that marketing and educational made for speaking, consult- part in the alleged kickback “I would say it’s up for were designed to direct kick- practice is a recurring contro- ing, travel, meals and other scheme, according to the interpretation whether paying promotional purposes are whistleblower lawsuit. But someone to be part of a legal. the case singles out 24 Long speaking program” consti- Novartis has only publicly Island doctors and nurses, tutes a kickback, he said. reported payments since 2010, including Nissan. Nissan and “I’m not aware of any doctors when the company pleaded two other physicians — who have taken it to that guilty to a misdemeanor and Edward Condon, who special- level.” paid $422.5 million to settle izes in internal medicine, and Mormando said he had charges it had illegally Mark Jagust, a family practi- been a paid speaker for promoted Trileptal, an anti- tioner — “each received tens Novartis on three occasions a seizure drug, and had paid of thousands of dollars” number of years ago and esti- kickbacks for prescribing its from Novartis, according to mated he had earned between drugs. Aside from the misde- the lawsuit. $1,200 and $1,500. According meanor plea, Novartis denied Novartis also hired Ross to Dollars for Docs, he was wrongdoing. Fishberger — the son of paid at least $9,958 from nine The latest lawsuit is one of Kenneth Fishberger, another pharmaceutical companies two filed last week by the one of the doctors named — since 2009, only $19 of which Justice Department against as a sales representative “in came from Novartis. Novartis in U.S. District order to assure that Dr. Another of the named doc- Court in Manhattan. The com- Fishberger continued to pre- tors, Howard Hertz of pany is also accused of pay- scribe” Lotrel and other Babylon, N.Y., also denied ing kickbacks to pharmacies Novartis drugs, according to taking kickbacks in a brief to promote Myfortic, a drug the lawsuit. Novartis also interview. Hertz was paid at that suppresses the immune allegedly employed Condon’s least $9,888 since 2010 from system. Novartis — which is wife and daughter-in- law as five drug companies, includ- bound by a corporate integri- sales reps. ing $4,110 from Novartis, ty agreement from its 2010 Reached by ProPublica, according to Dollars for Docs. settlement — has disputed Condon said he had no The main plank of the the allegations in both cases. knowledge of the lawsuit, Justice Department’s lawsuit “We disagree with the way and hung up when asked is the federal anti-kickback the government is character- more detailed questions. statute, which makes it ille- izing our conduct in both of Jagust and the elder gal for drug companies to pay these matters and we stand Fishberger did not respond to doctors with the intent of behind our Compliance pro- repeated requests for com- getting them to prescribe a gram,” Andre Wyss, the head ment. particular drug or to reward of Novartis’s U.S. operations, Ross Fishberger declined to them for doing so. said in a statement. comment when reached by Kevin Outterson, a profes- The whistleblower lawsuit ProPublica. sor at Boston University Law alleges that Lotrel, a blood- Dollars for Docs shows that School who has studied pressure medication with drug companies have made health care fraud, said it can sales of nearly $1.3 billion in payments to many of the 24 difficult to prove intent in 2006, “became a big seller for doctors named in the whistle- pursuing kickback cases. NOVARTIS because it paid blower lawsuit since 2009. “What it boils down to is physicians to write Lotrel Condon received at least they need smoking gun evi- prescriptions.” Novartis sales $156,094 in meals, travel, dence,” he said. reps allegedly rewarded doc- speaking fees and other But Outterson said he tors with cash or gift checks expenses from six companies, thought the Justice and recruited them to attend including Novartis. Another Department had a strong “Clinical Learning Days” doctor, Michael Shanik of case. “It goes directly to the with honoraria of $250 to Smithtown, N.Y., was paid at culture of wining and dining $500 a pop. least $97,754 from six compa- and having lavish entertain- The meetings could be as nies, including more than ment and educational events short as half an hour, the $30,000 from Novartis. in order to induce prescrip- A Novartis research and development lab. (Photo/Novartis) whistleblower suit alleges, Robert Mormando, an inter- tion writing,” he said. 20 May 10 - 23, 2013 opinion Ecosovo Lessons in Picnicking

By Elizabeth Gowing

ay 1 is a day when Kosovo suddenly feels very socialist again. Even the habitual macchiato drinkers in the capital give the impression of Mbeing part of the righteous working class finally enjoying the holi- day they deserve, as they bundle picnics into cars, and unfold blankets in Germia. Everyone wants to spend the day outside near greenery. However, there are of course plenty of Kosovars who don’t have access to picnic boxes or cars, or to Germia or other greenery. Our NGO’s work in the Roma, Ashkali and Egyptian Neighbourhood 29 of Fushe Kosove has brought us into contact with many families we knew would be very happy to spend the day in a lush landscape of flowers, but whose immediate surroundings seem The President of Kosovo, Atifete Jahjaga, has dramatically reduced the number of presidential pardons. to have only two seasons: mud and dust. And, whether spring, summer or winter, amid the mud and the dust blooms only garbage. For years, the municipality’s garbage collection has been sporadic or non- existent. Just think about that dustbin bag you put out earlier this week, and Good news for Kosovo imagine that there was no municipal service coming to collect it. Imagine the bin being knocked over by a stray dog, and the contents spilling over the front yard. Imagine the same thing happening the next week, and outside your neighbour’s home – and you’ll have a picture of how quickly and effectively and the Rule of Law a community space can be transformed into a rubbish heap. Recently, the municipality has started to re-engage with the issue of this for instance) and were refused it about them: I had asked ICO to community’s rubbish. One hundred lorry-loads of garbage were removed by the competent judicial act, and I still remember the from the largest site, and a short while ago a weekly collection was institut- authorities: the president effec- elaborate, lawyerly excuses that ed, with neighbourhood reps nominated to check that collection occurs as By Andrea Lorenzo tively overturned their deci- a colleague used to defend promised. So for May 1, this year, it felt like the perfect place to celebrate was Capussela sions. Krasniqi’s 103 pardons in 2011. in the dust of Fushe Kosove, working with the community to create a green Aside from generating more We know that their approach space that could be a future picnic site. crime, I noted, such amnesties puts a premium on short-term We were offered support by UNVolunteers, who paid for more than 1000 month before the fourth were an open challenge to very political stability, but the fact seeds, and transport for a group of Kosovar and international volunteers to anniversary of the decla- notion of the rule of law: what that the practice of granting travel from Prishtina, to join a team of more than 100 volunteers from Aration of independence I mass pardons has now been dis- could be worse than seeing the Neighbourhood 29. The local volunteers were mainly children, but also wrote two articles for Zeri and head of state illegally and arbi- continued proves that it would included curious, skeptical, or excited parents, some of The Ideas The European Voice, on the trarily freeing tens of criminals have been possible for them to Partnership’s own volunteers from the community, and volunteers from the mass pardons that in the previ- every year, to ‘mark’ Kosovo’s stop it already in 2009 without local NGO, Gëzimi. ous three years Kosovo’s presi- most important anniversary? harming stability. Why did they Everyone had been told to bring a dents had issued on that day. not even try? Perhaps they spoon, and within minutes, the for- They had pardoned 72 crimi- In 2012, the new president par- thought that Kosovo is irre- mer rubbish site was budding with nals in 2009 (Fatmir Sejdiu), 62 doned 15 criminals. In a subse- deemable: but, if so, why did holes dug in the dirt. We distributed in 2010 (Sejdiu), and 103 in 2011 quent article I wrote that this they stay there? Or perhaps they seeds (and gloves), and some flow- (Jakup Krasniqi, as acting pres- was still too much, and more or thought that the public would ers, and the volunteer force had ident). The average was 79 par- less confirmed my earlier criti- have sided with the criminals soon bedded in a potential meadow. dons per year, which was equiv- cism: I wrote that stealing one rather than with principle of As we stood back and watched, we alent to 5.4 per cent of the apple is better than stealing ten, the rule of law: if so, Kosovo all felt gritty, but also somehow prison population, or one par- but is still theft. emphatically proved them proud. There had been a communal don every 18 criminals. For a In 2013 the president par- wrong, and increased their effort bringing together children comparison, I noted that in Italy doned 4 criminals, and these are moral and political responsibili- and old people, foreigners with and the United States the per- the only pardons issued ty for having remained silent. Kosovar Albanians, Roma, Ashkali year average is about 0.005 per between 17 February 2012 and Some noise in the press and and Egyptians. People had talked to cent and 0.001 per cent of the today. This proves that the new the pressure of public opinion strangers, had helped neighbours. prison population, respectively. president has abandoned the or single persons did better than Everyone had been inspired by the Also, Italian and especially US previous policy, and that the the two international missions future for this neighbourhood, how presidents tend to pardon only 2012 decision was a first impor- endowed with sweeping powers rubbish dumps can be transformed. people who have served their tant step in that direction, not a (theoretically), a total staff of One thing I learned this 1 May was full sentences, whereas Kosovo’s momentary concession to pub- 2,500, and the ability to speaks the exhilaration that comes from president had pardoned only lic criticism, as I had judged it. on behalf the EU and the West. joint effort. people who were still in jail, The assessment I gave in 2012 And then something else hap- including murderers and drug was wrong, therefore, and I am That’s a fine lesson. Which will pened: planted flowers started to dis- traffickers. And while US presi- delighted to note that Kosovo hopefully encourage Kosovo’s dents issue pardons only once has put an end to that practice. citizens to raise their peaceful appear. We were all really sad that A happy pair. things we had invested in as a group every few years, Kosovo’s presi- This goes to the credit of the voice also on other matters. For were being taken jealously to be enjoyed each by just one family rather than dents had issued them every current president and to those, instance, a few weeks ago there all. But it made me realize something – that it was much better that these year. within or outside of the institu- was a historic civic demonstra- flowers were stolen than that they were stepped on; I would rather know that I argued that such mass par- tions, who have asked for a tion against corruption; but a a flower was so valued that someone wanted to take it than that it was so lit- dons flagrantly breached the change in that policy: I recall, little later the parliament and tle valued that no-one noticed if they trampled it. And we had brought these law and the constitution, for two for instance, a declaration president appointed a former flowers to make the neighbourhood beautiful; they were still doing that, but reasons. Firstly, presidential issued by the Kosovo Legal minister and PDK party mem- just on other pieces of land. pardons are meant to be an Institute a few days before the ber as governor of the central What we also realized was that whatever happened to the flowers, no one exceptional act of clemency, 2012 anniversary, and critical bank, which is a scandalous and can steal the seeds. Both literally and metaphorically, what we planted that which is discretionary precisely comments in the 2012 progress dangerous choice why not day can’t be touched or taken away. And hopefully over the next few months because it should be rarely report by the European protest forcefully? Equally, last we will be presented with a daily reminder of that fact as we watch next used; broad amnesties, general- Commission and in the EU year public pressure forced par- year’s picnic site and the belief in it take root. And on May 1, 2014, hopefully ly granted by parliaments, are audit report on EULEX. This is liament to change the criminal we’ll all turn up again, but this time with blankets and coolers, and relax not permitted by Kosovo’s con- excellent news for Kosovo. rules limiting media freedom; together in an ever more beautiful neighbourhood, feeling like virtuous stitution. Secondly, many par- A second observation I would but in December the parliament workers who have earned this holiday. dons issued by Sejdiu and make is that in 2009, 2010 and wrote rules in the code of crimi- Krasniqi breached the principle 2011 Kosovo was subject to the nal procedure that discourage Elizabeth Gowing is a founder of The Ideas Partnership, a Kosovan NGO of the separation of powers too, supervision of International witnesses from testifying, and Y using volunteer power to tackle educational, cultural heritage and environ- because they had been granted Civilian Office, ICO, and benefit- represent an implicit invitation M mental challenges. She is also the author of Travels in Blood and Honey; to persons who had asked for ed from EULEX’s assistance. to intimidating them: why not C becoming a beekeeper in Kosovo (2011) and Edith and I; on the trail of an early release from prison (for These institutions knew of the protest, with the same determi- K Edwardian traveler in Kosovo – www.edith-and-i.com – published this month. good conduct or health reasons, pardons but did not say a word nation? inside prishtina May 10 - 23, 2013 21 Nothing Fishy About Detari’s Fish

The shops owners hail from Ulqin (Ulcinj), Montenegro. The small seaside town is sometimes called the Kosovo riviera By Gravlax because throngs of Kosovars flock to its beaches every summer. But its crisp waters are also home to delicious fish. All of Detari’s fish is laid out in ice-filled or the discerning fish eater, finding a display cases. The assortment varies day-to- great catch often resembles a fool’s day, but there’s usually an ample supply of Ferrand in Prishtina. levrek (sea bass) and orata (sea bream), both Far too often fish - be it sea bass, sea of which are reliably delicious. Just stay bream, trout or salmon - smell and taste away from the salmon. There aren’t any in uncomfortably fishy. It’s the sort of fishi- the Adriatic, so it wouldn’t be coming from ness that suggests freshness has started giv- anywhere near Ulqin. ing way to rot. The fish is largely mild, with tender flesh, I’ve encountered fish in this condition and absent of that unsettling rotting smell. even from established go-to destinations for Pick out the fish, and the staff will happily sea-dwelling delights. gut and clean it. But not at Detari. They’re also happy to grill it up for you to The small shop quietly opened up on the either eat there or to take away. But anyone main road in Dragodan late last year. While serious about fish will take it home raw. The it’s obstinately a fishmonger, Detari also has fish also blows Taunita’s out of the water. a few small tables where the affable staff I’ve even turned their sea bass into crudo will serve up their catch for a cheap, quick — the Italian raw-fish delicacy — with great meal. results. Prices also are quite reasonable, with most fish coming well under 15 euro per kilogram. Detari also sells fresh olives, a spectacular olive oil from Ulqin, as well as wines and vinegars. But all are a sideshow to the fish.

Detari fish shop

Ahmet Krasniqi Street, ,Dragodan, Prishtina (below the Amalfi restaurant), Prishtina

Monday-Saturday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Photo News: The Royal Treatment

A mural painted in downtown Prishtina to depict various icons of EU coun- tries in honour of Europe Day got a cheeky addition of graffiti.

If you would like your NGO to appear in our Making a Difference feature, please email [email protected] 22 May 10 - 23, 2013 inside prishtina Honeypot for Prishtina Employees Prishtina started a free hives programme to encourage beekeeping. But without training, some beginners ended up feeling stung. the main municipal office. One recipient, Fadil Gashi, who works as an emergency-services By Petrit Collaku operator, didn’t fare so well. “A bee family died. Winter went well but I lost them in spring. I don’t know why,” Gashi said. rishtina had quite the offer Fexhri Hyseni, who heads the for the aspiring beekeeper: municipal agriculture depart- PTwo hives with bees and spe- ment and spearheaded the proj- cialized equipment, including ect, said there were problems masks, gloves and a tool the col- with the selection process. lect the honey - all for free. “This is the only project I am The idea, officially, was to not satisfied with,” Hyseni said. increase the number of beekeep- “There are many reasons for this. ers in Prishtina. The project cost The main one is the selection of just shy of 80,000 euro. beneficiaries.” When the municipality offered He said there were only two cri- the kits on a first-come, first- teria to apply - the applicant had serve basis during two 10-day to be a resident of the municipali- periods in 2011 and 2012, munici- ty of Prishtina and have five acres pal employees were the first to of land. To do this, applicants hear. filled out a form and supplied a Nineteen Prishtina municipali- copy of their ID. ty employees took advantage of The municipality did not offer the offer, in addition to 121 lay any training until April this year. residents. Some bees haven’t flourished, They included inspectors, Honey bees hard at work in Podujevo. (Photo/Kaltrina Rexhepi) as was the case with Gashi’s. municipal clerks, forest guards “There are recipients who did advise the municipality to include beekeepers in Podujevo. had to be at work. and drivers, as well as officials in not take our advice and lost their people in need and families living “I am learning many things,” Hyseni, who is heading the the inspection department and bees,” said Sylejman Zogian, on social assistance. said Afrim Gashi, a clerk for the project, said he would have pre- whose Blerta company won the With the bees long distributed, Mramor village in Prishtina ferred to do the trainings when “There are recipients who two tenders to supply the bees. the municipality is now offering Municipality. “The lecturer is the bees were distributed, but did not take our advice and Zogiani, who also heads the training to the fledgling beekeep- very capable.” funds weren’t available. Prishtina beekeepers association, ers. Still, some beekeepers haven’t The beekeeping project has lost their bees.” Bleta, said the municipality did- The municipality began a attended the training sessions. been a learning experience, Sylejman Zogiani, n’t adequately prepare for the three-month training programme Two municipal employees and Hyseni said. “The criteria will be project. He also questioned the for bee recipients in late April, one official told Prishtina Insight more rigorous in the future,” he Bee supplier selection process, saying he’d run by the Llapi association of that they couldn’t attend as they said. marketing

Y M C K May 10 - 23, 2013 23 Classified Contact Prishtina Insight if you would like to advertise Email [email protected]

Embassies and Liaison Offices in Prishtina

American Address: "Nazim Hikmet" no. 30 Arbëria/Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 516 Austrian Address: "Ahmet Krasniqi" no. 22 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284 Belgian Address: "Taslixhe" I, 23 A 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 734 734 British Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 6 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 700 Bulgarian Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 12 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 038 245 540 Dutch Address:" Xhemal Berisha" no. 12 Velania, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 224 61 Finnish Str. Perandori Justinian No. 19 Pejton 10 000 Prishtina Phone: +386 43 737 000 French Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 67 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 22 45 88 00 Greek Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 68 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 013 German Adress: "Azem Jashanica" no. 17 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 500 Italian Address: "Azem Jashanica" no.5 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 925 Japanese Address: "Rexhep Malaj" no. 43 10000 Prishtina Alcoholics Anonymous Personal Trainer Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Luxemburg Classified Ads Address: "Metush Krasniqi" no. 14 (English speaking) Mentor Azemi - 044 811 921 Do you have a flat to rent? Position to fill? Students to find for a language Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina course? Why not speak directly to Kosovo’s international community Personal attention and Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 787 through Prishtina Insight classified ads. training schedule Malaysian Almost every international organisation, embassy, NGO and many oth- For further information... Time and place of your Address: "Bedri Shala" no. 48 ers subscribe to Kosovo’s only English language newspaper, which is also choice 10000 Prishtina on sale at newsstands in seven cities and received in electronic format by Contact : 3 per week = 150 month Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 467 scores of paying clients across the world. Erik - tel nr.: 044937397 5 per week = 200 month Norwegian (Other schedules possible) Address: "Sejdi Kryeziu" no. 6 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 232 111 00 Saudia Arabian Easy Medium Hard Address: Dardania SU 7, building 2, #1 | 10000 Prishtina 95 Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 203 95 984 Slovenian Address: "Anton Ceta" no. 6 98 2 98 2 7510000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 886 869 4 869 4 389 Swedish Str. Perandori Justinian No. 19 53 53 16 7 Pejton 10 000 Prishtina 843 276 843 276 73Phone: +381 38 24 57 95 Swiss 75 75 296Address: "Adrian Krasniqi" no. 11 10000 Prishtina 41364136 32 1 Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 088 945945 12Turkish Y Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 59 M Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina C 51 51 984 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 044 K 24 May 10 - 23, 2013 advert

Y M C K