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6 CONTENTS

CONTENTS

Early History 8 Further Reading 17 Modern History 13

THE GUIDE

The Province of Palermo 19 The 297 Palermo 19 Ragusa 297 Around Palermo 75 306 The East of the Province 84 Southeast of Ragusa 311 The West of the Province 103 West of Ragusa 317 The South of the Province 105 Chiaramonte Gulfi 325 The Island of 108 The 337 The Province of Trapani 127 Syracuse 337 Trapani 127 Noto 362 The North Coast of the Province 140 Palazzolo Acreide 371 Segesta 143 The Anapo Valley 374 Alcamo 145 Thapsos and Augusta 378 The West Coast 148 The Province of Catania 395 Selinunte 160 Catania 395 Castelvetrano 167 409 The Belice Valley 169 The Foothills South of Etna 412 The Egadi Islands 171 The Foothills North of Etna 415 175 Acireale 419 The Province of Agrigento 193 422 Agrigento 193 The Province of Messina 443 The Pelagian Islands 212 Messina 443 Sciacca 213 Taormina 455 The Platani Valley 222 The Peloritan Mountains 466 The North of the Province 224 Milazzo 471 The Eastern Province 226 The 472 The Province of Caltanissetta 239 The Coast to Capo Orlando 483 Caltanissetta 239 The Nebrodi Mountains 486 Gela and the South 248 The Province of 259 Glossary 520 Enna 259 Greek orders of architecture 524 266 Types of vase 526 and Aidone 276 Index 527 Northeast of Enna 282 Nicosia and the North 287 MAPS & PLANS

Province Maps Syracuse Palermo 74 Mainland 348 Trapani 126 Taormina 460 Agrigento 192 Trapani 129 Caltanissetta 238 Enna 258 Site Plans Ragusa and Syracuse 296 Castello Eurialo 360 Catania 394 379 Messina 442 Monreale Duomo 79 Morgantina 278 Town Plans Mozia 151 Agrigento 196–197 Palermo Catania 398–399 Cathedral 30 Enna 260 La Martorana 26 Erice 135 Palazzo dei Normanni and Lipari 476 Cappella Palatina 37 Marsala 154 Museo Archeologico ground floor 59 Messina 447 Museo Archeologico first floor 61 Noto 364 Pantalica 375 Palermo 22–23 Piazza Armerina Environs 68 Villa Romana del Casale 270 Ragusa 302 Selinunte 162 Syracuse East Hill Temples 163 Ortygia 340 Temples of the Acropolis 165 Syracuse Duomo 343

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Planning your trip 503 Opening times 507 Accommodation 504 Additional information 508 Getting around 505

FOOD & DRINK

A history of Sicilian cuisine 509 Speciality food by province 514 Favourite Sicilian specialities 512 Restaurants and wine 517