Dry German Riesling Grosses Gewächs
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PANEL TASTING Dry German Riesling Grosses Gewächs From the top-rated vineyards in Germany, these wines are vaunted as the pinnacle of quality – and the focus is shifting from power to finesse, says Anne Krebiehl MW THIS PANEL TASTING encompassed the whole of Bonn Germany – 13 wine-growing regions covering 4° of Principal German Riesling regions latitude (from 47.5°N in Baden to 51.5°N in Saale- 1 Rhine Bad 1 Ahr 6 Rheinhessen Unstrut), and every imaginable kind of soil. However, Ahr Ems Lahn Koblenz 2 Mittelrhein 7 Pfalz rather than look at all levels of Riesling, it focused in on 3 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 8 Baden RHEINLAND 2 H E SSE N Grosses Gewächs (‘great growth’), the top category of 4 Rheingau 9 Württemberg Wiesbaden 5 Nahe 10 Franconia the VDP’s private classification. So the wines came only 4 Frankfurt Bingen Main from VDP member-estates, but covered the breadth of Mosel3 Mainz Rüsselheim German dry Riesling: only the tiny Hessische Bergstrasse Trier MainWürzburg Nahe 6 r and Mittelrhein were missing, as were the easterly a 5 Worms a 10 outposts of Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut. But certainly the S Neckar SAARLAND Mannheim heartlands of German Riesling were well represented. GER M ANY 7 Grosses Gewächs wines are made from clearly 8 Baltic Sea delimited single vineyards that have been classified as Landau North Karlsruhe Sea Grosse Lage (‘grand cru’), and are produced to stringent Hamburg 0 20 40 60 80 9 regulations. All GGs are trocken (dry), which in Germany POLAND kilometres Amsterdam Berlin means no more than 9g/l of residual sugar. Only three of Baden- Stuttgart Rotterdam Baden GER M ANY the 95 wines tasted touched this mark, while a further Rhine BADEN- Brussels Bonn seven were in the vicinity – but they had the acidity to WURTTEMBERG BELGIUM Frankfurt F R ANC E CZECH provide the balance. I must emphasise that at these REPUBLIC levels sugar acts as flavour-enhancer rather than Strasbourg Stuttgart sweetener, as is amply demonstrated in brut sparkling N FRANCE AUSTRIA wines, which likewise come with high acidity and easily SWITZERLAND accommodate six or even eight grams of dosage while 8 being perfectly dry. All this is to say: if you are looking 9 for dry Riesling, the GGs are your go-to category. Most S W I TZERLAND of these wines were around the 5g/l mark and below, Nelson Maggie Map: with higher acidities than your average white. Delicate balance Germany: know your vintages When GG wines were first made in the early 2000s, it was still thought that an estate’s top wines had to show 2016 A difficult year: a humid 2014 Challenging year with some their mettle. The mindset has since shifted from power spring and summer affected yields rain, but stringent selection delivered back towards elegance, with delicate alcohols of 12.5% rather than quality, but a long, dry and racy, taut wines. and below for almost half the wines here. The Germans warm autumn saved the day, allowing have discovered what makes their wines truly German: a great aromatic development. Subtle 2013 Tiny vintage, difficult year, cool finesse and depth. When the 2016 white GGs were Rieslings for the long run. selection was everything. first released last August, the regions that stood out were the Nahe, Rheinhessen and the Pfalz: the Nahe for 2015 A dry, warm year with a 2012 Ripe, balanced, long-lived. its uncompromising drive for purity and expression; ‘gloriously sunny’ September gave Rheinhessen for embracing its inherent diversity, from rounded, sunny, ripe Rieslings. Hailed 2011 Great in the Mosel, very good Roter Hang via Wonnegau to its far west, close to the as a great vintage. in other regions. Nahe; and Pfalz for its exemplary restraint and nuance. German Riesling: the facts (2016) Riesling plantings. While 23% of Germany’s vineyards are Born in Germany and Total Riesling 23,700ha (of a total 102,493ha under vine) planted to Riesling, the variety accounts for 55% of VDP resident in London, Anne Riesling plantings by region Pfalz 5,850ha; Mosel estate vineyards. According to the VDP, its members are Krebiehl MW is a widely 5,395ha; Rheinhessen 4,536ha; Rheingau 2,495ha; responsible for 12% of Germany’s Riesling vineyards and published wine writer, Württemberg 2,113ha; Nahe 1,202ha; Baden 1,069ha; 5% of the world’s. The VDP has just 3% of the total German consultant and educator, Franken 343ha. harvest, but this accounts for 7.5% of the total turnover. and a DWWA judge ➢ Riesling is Germany’s most planted grape variety, the Grosses Gewächs represents just 5% of production. 23,700ha planted representing 49% of the world’s Source: Deutscher Wein Statistik 2017/18 and www.vdp.de DECANTER • July 2018 | 85 PANEL TASTING DRY GERMAN RIESLING GROSSES GEWACHS The results Exceptional 98–100pts A consistently high-scoring tasting, showcasing the finesse and ageability of dry Siefersheim, is planted to Riesling, ripening up to two weeks later than German Riesling. Our experts tell Tina Gellie why wine lovers need to try them its neighbours. This wine is fermented in stainless steel before maturing in medium and large German oak barrels. OUR TRIO OF expert judges were impressed at the ‘The GG category has been very Gearoid Devaney MS Fresh and open, with plenty of concentrated lime quality of wines on show in this tasting, encouraging The scores zest and green apple on the palate, balanced by bright acid and leading wine lovers to stock up their cellars. successful in a short space of time, 95 wines tasted Exceptional Wagner Stempel, Heerkretz, to a mineral finish. German Riesling has ‘finally come of age’, said Exceptional and that’s very exciting’ Sebastian Thomas 98 points Rheinhessen 2016 Sebastian Thomas: ‘Five years ago I don’t think anyone 1 Anne Krebiehl MW This is a very subtle wine, only slowly revealing its would have considered doing a Grosses Gewächs tasting, Decanter average score: 98/100pts depth of citrus fruit. It’s gentle, delicate and long, demonstrating because even as recently as that Riesling wasn’t really Pfalz divided the judges somewhat, with Thomas Outstanding Individual judges’ scores: Gearoid Devaney MS 98 seamless elegance. mainstream. But the GG category has been very successful enjoying them more than Krebiehl and Devaney, who Anne Krebiehl MW 97 Sebastian Thomas 99 6 Sebastian Thomas Very elegant and understated, this is gorgeously in a short space of time, and that’s very exciting.’ found the toasty oak a bit dominant in a few examples. £68 Winetraders Highly fine on the palate. The integrated, ripe acidity balances the subtle but Anne Krebiehl MW was pleased that producers had Rheingau was criticised for being a bit uneven in fruit Established in 1845, Wagner Stempel is now well into its ninth Recommended juicy mineral character. Very long and fresh. Another sip please! toned down the wines’ power. ‘In 2002, when GG was weight and oak, as well having ‘unsuitable oxidative or generation of family stewardship. Current proprietor Daniel Wagner first presented as an official category, winemakers natural winemaking elements’. ‘We should have seen 68 has converted the vineyards to organic production, and has lowered Drink 2019-2032 Alcohol 13% thought, “If this is my top wine, then bigger is better”. more from these historic vineyards,’ bemoaned Krebiehl. Recommended yields. Half of the Heerkretz vineyard, overlooking the village of The GG wines almost got lost in a power play. But Meanwhile, Mosel was deemed ‘a work in progress’. 16 German Riesling is powerful not by brawn, but by Thomas explained: ‘The wines are good, but the acidity, ageability and finesse. I’m so happy producers winemakers are still coming to terms with the fact that Commended have stopped chasing that misguided idea.’ residual sugar is not what is wanted in this dry GG style. 3 Outstanding 95–97pts In terms of regions, quality was very consistent. ‘I’ve But they’ll get there.’ Fair never seen so many wines scoring 90 points or more,’ Regardless of the region, the big selling point with said Thomas. ‘Of course there were some poorer these wines was their incredible capacity to age, said 0 examples, but there wasn’t a single region we thought Thomas, particularly the ‘luscious, perfumed’ 2016s and Poor was underperforming – even those we don’t know well.’ ‘powerful, rounder’ 2015s. ‘Some of the great dry wines 1 In the latter camp was Württemberg, which was ‘a of Germany have matured very well, so these GGs have Faulty real discovery’ for Gearoid Devaney MS. ‘It was a really enormous capacity to last – 15, 20, 30 years no problem.’ solid showing,’ he said. ‘They probably weren’t troubling But drinking them earlier was fine too, assured 0 Kloster Eberbach, Marcobrunn, Kühling-Gillot, Hipping, Rheinhessen the higher scores, but the wines were good, in a richer, Devaney. ‘It’s subjective, but for my palate, I think the 96 GD 96 AK 95 ST 96 96 GD 96 AK 96 ST 97 spicier style.’ sweet spot would be 10 to 12 years from the vintage. Of Rheingau 2016 2016 There was unanimous agreement that Rheinhessen course they will age beautifully for far longer, but if you £70 Boutinot, Nickolls & Perks, WoodWinters £43 Howard Ripley was the most exciting region, offering a broad range of pull a cork on one, you’re not going to be upset!’ The monks of Kloster Eberbach have been producing wine here for Although Kühling-Gillot can point to more than 200 years of heritage, styles with real energy. ‘Lots of balance, elegance and Our experts urged those unfamiliar with or unsure Entry criteria: producers almost nine centuries – at one point in its history it laid claim to being it is very much at the vanguard of contemporary German winemaking.