Panel tasting Dry German Riesling Grosses Gewächs From the top-rated vineyards in Germany, these wines are vaunted as the pinnacle of quality – and the focus is shifting from power to finesse, says Anne Krebiehl MW

This panel tasting encompassed the whole of Bonn Germany – 13 wine-growing regions covering 4° of Principal German Riesling regions latitude (from 47.5°N in Baden to 51.5°N in Saale- 1 Rhine Bad 1 Ahr 6 Rheinhessen Unstrut), and every imaginable kind of soil. However, Ahr Ems Lahn Koblenz 2 Mittelrhein 7 Pfalz rather than look at all levels of Riesling, it focused in on 3 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 8 Baden RHEINLAND 2 H E SSE N Grosses Gewächs (‘great growth’), the top category of 4 Rheingau 9 Württemberg Wiesbaden 5 Nahe 10 Franconia the VDP’s private classification. So the wines came only 4 Frankfurt Bingen Main from VDP member-estates, but covered the breadth of Mosel3 Mainz Rüsselheim German dry Riesling: only the tiny Hessische Bergstrasse Trier MainWürzburg

Nahe 6 r and Mittelrhein were missing, as were the easterly a 5 Worms a 10 outposts of Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut. But certainly the S Neckar SAARLAND Mannheim heartlands of German Riesling were well represented. GER M ANY 7 Grosses Gewächs wines are made from clearly 8 Baltic Sea delimited single vineyards that have been classified as Landau North Karlsruhe Sea Grosse Lage (‘grand cru’), and are produced to stringent Hamburg 0 20 40 60 80 9 regulations. All GGs are trocken (dry), which in Germany POLAND kilometres Amsterdam Berlin means no more than 9g/l of residual sugar. Only three of Baden- Stuttgart Rotterdam Baden GER M ANY the 95 wines tasted touched this mark, while a further Rhine BADEN- Brussels Bonn seven were in the vicinity – but they had the acidity to WURTTEMBERG BELGIUM Frankfurt F R ANC E CZECH provide the balance. I must emphasise that at these REPUBLIC levels sugar acts as flavour-enhancer rather than Strasbourg Stuttgart sweetener, as is amply demonstrated in brut sparkling N FRANCE AUSTRIA wines, which likewise come with high acidity and easily SWITZERLAND accommodate six or even eight grams of dosage while 8 being perfectly dry. All this is to say: if you are looking 9 for dry Riesling, the GGs are your go-to category. Most S W I TZERLAND of these wines were around the 5g/l mark and below, Nelson Maggie Map: with higher acidities than your average white. Delicate balance Germany: know your vintages When GG wines were first made in the early 2000s, it was still thought that an estate’s top wines had to show 2016 A difficult year: a humid 2014 Challenging year with some their mettle. The mindset has since shifted from power spring and summer affected yields rain, but stringent selection delivered back towards elegance, with delicate alcohols of 12.5% rather than quality, but a long, dry and racy, taut wines. and below for almost half the wines here. The Germans warm autumn saved the day, allowing have discovered what makes their wines truly German: a great aromatic development. Subtle 2013 Tiny vintage, difficult year, cool finesse and depth. When the 2016 white GGs were Rieslings for the long run. selection was everything. first released last August, the regions that stood out were the Nahe, Rheinhessen and the Pfalz: the Nahe for 2015 A dry, warm year with a 2012 Ripe, balanced, long-lived. its uncompromising drive for purity and expression; ‘gloriously sunny’ September gave Rheinhessen for embracing its inherent diversity, from rounded, sunny, ripe Rieslings. Hailed 2011 Great in the Mosel, very good Roter Hang via Wonnegau to its far west, close to the as a great vintage. in other regions. Nahe; and Pfalz for its exemplary restraint and nuance.

German Riesling: the facts (2016) Riesling plantings. While 23% of Germany’s vineyards are Born in Germany and Total Riesling 23,700ha (of a total 102,493ha under vine) planted to Riesling, the variety accounts for 55% of VDP resident in London, Anne Riesling plantings by region Pfalz 5,850ha; Mosel estate vineyards. According to the VDP, its members are Krebiehl MW is a widely 5,395ha; Rheinhessen 4,536ha; Rheingau 2,495ha; responsible for 12% of Germany’s Riesling vineyards and published wine writer, Württemberg 2,113ha; Nahe 1,202ha; Baden 1,069ha; 5% of the world’s. The VDP has just 3% of the total German consultant and educator, Franken 343ha. harvest, but this accounts for 7.5% of the total turnover. and a DWWA judge ➢ Riesling is Germany’s most planted grape variety, the Grosses Gewächs represents just 5% of production. 23,700ha planted representing 49% of the world’s Source: Deutscher Wein Statistik 2017/18 and www.vdp.de

DECANTER • July 2018 | 85 Panel tasting Dry German Riesling Grosses Gewachs

The results Exceptional 98–100pts A consistently high-scoring tasting, showcasing the finesse and ageability of dry Siefersheim, is planted to Riesling, ripening up to two weeks later than German Riesling. Our experts tell Tina Gellie why wine lovers need to try them its neighbours. This wine is fermented in stainless steel before maturing in medium and large German oak barrels. Our trio of expert judges were impressed at the ‘The GG category has been very Gearoid Devaney MS Fresh and open, with plenty of concentrated lime quality of wines on show in this tasting, encouraging The scores zest and green apple on the palate, balanced by bright acid and leading wine lovers to stock up their cellars. successful in a short space of time, 95 wines tasted Exceptional Wagner Stempel, Heerkretz, to a mineral finish. German Riesling has ‘finally come of age’, said Exceptional and that’s very exciting’ Sebastian Thomas 98 points Rheinhessen 2016 Sebastian Thomas: ‘Five years ago I don’t think anyone 1 Anne Krebiehl MW This is a very subtle wine, only slowly revealing its would have considered doing a Grosses Gewächs tasting, Decanter average score: 98/100pts depth of citrus fruit. It’s gentle, delicate and long, demonstrating because even as recently as that Riesling wasn’t really Pfalz divided the judges somewhat, with Thomas Outstanding Individual judges’ scores: Gearoid Devaney MS 98 seamless elegance. mainstream. But the GG category has been very successful enjoying them more than Krebiehl and Devaney, who Anne Krebiehl MW 97 Sebastian Thomas 99 6 Sebastian Thomas Very elegant and understated, this is gorgeously in a short space of time, and that’s very exciting.’ found the toasty oak a bit dominant in a few examples. £68 Winetraders Highly fine on the palate. The integrated, ripe acidity balances the subtle but Anne Krebiehl MW was pleased that producers had Rheingau was criticised for being a bit uneven in fruit Established in 1845, Wagner Stempel is now well into its ninth Recommended juicy mineral character. Very long and fresh. Another sip please! toned down the wines’ power. ‘In 2002, when GG was weight and oak, as well having ‘unsuitable oxidative or generation of family stewardship. Current proprietor Daniel Wagner first presented as an official category, winemakers natural winemaking elements’. ‘We should have seen 68 has converted the vineyards to organic production, and has lowered Drink 2019-2032 Alcohol 13% thought, “If this is my top wine, then bigger is better”. more from these historic vineyards,’ bemoaned Krebiehl. Recommended yields. Half of the Heerkretz vineyard, overlooking the village of The GG wines almost got lost in a power play. But Meanwhile, Mosel was deemed ‘a work in progress’. 16 German Riesling is powerful not by brawn, but by Thomas explained: ‘The wines are good, but the acidity, ageability and finesse. I’m so happy producers winemakers are still coming to terms with the fact that Commended have stopped chasing that misguided idea.’ residual sugar is not what is wanted in this dry GG style. 3 Outstanding 95–97pts In terms of regions, quality was very consistent. ‘I’ve But they’ll get there.’ Fair never seen so many wines scoring 90 points or more,’ Regardless of the region, the big selling point with said Thomas. ‘Of course there were some poorer these wines was their incredible capacity to age, said 0 examples, but there wasn’t a single region we thought Thomas, particularly the ‘luscious, perfumed’ 2016s and Poor was underperforming – even those we don’t know well.’ ‘powerful, rounder’ 2015s. ‘Some of the great dry wines 1 In the latter camp was Württemberg, which was ‘a of Germany have matured very well, so these GGs have Faulty real discovery’ for Gearoid Devaney MS. ‘It was a really enormous capacity to last – 15, 20, 30 years no problem.’ solid showing,’ he said. ‘They probably weren’t troubling But drinking them earlier was fine too, assured 0 Kloster Eberbach, Marcobrunn, Kühling-Gillot, Hipping, Rheinhessen the higher scores, but the wines were good, in a richer, Devaney. ‘It’s subjective, but for my palate, I think the 96 GD 96 AK 95 ST 96 96 GD 96 AK 96 ST 97 spicier style.’ sweet spot would be 10 to 12 years from the vintage. Of Rheingau 2016 2016 There was unanimous agreement that Rheinhessen course they will age beautifully for far longer, but if you £70 Boutinot, Nickolls & Perks, WoodWinters £43 Howard Ripley was the most exciting region, offering a broad range of pull a cork on one, you’re not going to be upset!’ The monks of Kloster Eberbach have been producing wine here for Although Kühling-Gillot can point to more than 200 years of heritage, styles with real energy. ‘Lots of balance, elegance and Our experts urged those unfamiliar with or unsure Entry criteria: producers almost nine centuries – at one point in its history it laid claim to being it is very much at the vanguard of contemporary German winemaking. purity,’ said Devaney, ‘and when I think of Riesling, about dry German Riesling to give them a try. ‘The and UK agents were the largest wine estate in all Germany. The Marcobrunn vineyard’s Its vineyards are located in the area of Nierstein, overlooking the Rhine, purity is always the key word.’ Close behind was Nahe, producers have really stepped up to the plate,’ said invited to submit their existence can be traced back to the end of the 14th century, making it and are run using biodynamic practices. Its plot in the southeast-facing latest-release dry Grosses whose wines Devaney found had ‘good acidity, lovely Thomas. ‘They’re making wines that easily hold their Gewächs VDP Rieslings. one of the oldest monastic vineyards in the world. It’s a south-facing Hipping vineyard is near the top of the slope, where the vines sit on fruit expression and excellent tension – “wine for own with the best dry whites in the world, and you can One wine per producer site on deep, calcareous clay-marl soils, farmed using organic methods. bare rock composed of red slate. The handpicked grapes are fermented grown-ups” was what I wrote in my notes’. really taste that here.’ was permitted. using wild yeasts, then the wine is racked to 1,200-litre barrels where it GD Fresh, lively, green apple, citrus, lime skin, linear and focused. rests on its fine lees until bottling. Classic style and long, with a pleasing finish. GD This shows ripe, juicy fruits with great concentration, and is pleasing AK A plump fullness on the nose leads into a palate of concentrated and elegant. The judges freshness, with easy fruit and a textured mouthfeel. AK A touch of reduction, but underneath there’s an honest purity. It’s a ST A muted nose, yet very elegant and refined in the mouth with Gearoid Devaney MS Anne Krebiehl MW Sebastian Thomas wine that is light but expressive, slender but toned. Very lean, with a smooth, vibrant acidity and powerful orchard fruits accompanied by Devaney is a director Krebiehl is a freelance Thomas came late to cleansing finish. notes of spice. A long, bright finish. of independent wine writer and wine, beginning his ST Bright, perfumed floral and citrus flavours are accompanied by a merchant Flint Wines. lecturer. She is the career in book Drink 2018-2031 Alc 12% fine dash of smoky minerality. It’s fine and ripe, wearing the residual A Master Sommelier contributing editor for publishing. His first sugar well. Very understated and elegant on the long finish. since 2009, he was UK Austria, Alsace and wine job was selling to Sommelier of the Year England for Wine New York restaurants, Drink 2018-2032 Alc 12.5% ➢ 2008. He was head Enthusiast and then on his return to sommelier at London’s publishes in other the UK he worked for Capital Hotel when it trade and consumer Laytons, where he fell had two Michelin stars with Eric Chavot, and he titles including Decanter. She is a judge in the head over heels for Burgundy. Lured by 69% OF ALL helped open Tom Aikens’ one-star Michelin DWWA and other international wine Howard Ripley’s fabulous range of Burgundy CORK, THE NATURAL CHOICE MEDAL WINNERS AT THE DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS restaurant, where his wine list won awards with competitions, and has helped to harvest and domaines, he joined him in 2000, introducing a ARE STOPPED WITH A CORK1 the AA and Wine Spectator. make wine in Germany, Italy and New Zealand. portfolio of his other love, German wines. 70% OF WINEMAKERS 2 86 | July 2018 • DECANTER WWW.REALCORK.ORG PREFER NATURAL CORK STOPPERS

1From the 17,263 wines submitted, 8%* did not specify the closure type From the 15,828 wines submitted with an indication of closure, 75%* of the wines are sealed from cork closure (natural cork and technical cork). *These fi gures are based on self-declaration of closure type by submitters and have not been verifi ed. 2www.apcor.pt/en/

APCOR_CORK_FOOTER_TRADE AD_DECANTER_05.indd 1 04/04/2018 15:13 Panel tasting Dry German Riesling Grosses Gewachs

Highly Recommended (continued) 90–94pts Highly Recommended (continued) 90–94pts

Aldinger, Marienglas, August Eser, Oestrich Doosberg, Bürgerspital, Würzburger Stein Markgraf von Baden, Durbacher Maximin Grünhaus, Abtsberg, Schloss Lieser Thomas Haag, Württemberg 2016 Rheingau 2015 91 GD 92 AK 91 ST 91 Hagemann, Franken 2016 Schlossberg K Klingelberger, Mosel 2016 91 GD 92 AK 91 ST 91 Niederberg Helden, Mosel 2015 91 GD 92 AK 92 ST 89 91 GD 90 AK 93 ST 90 91 GD 90 AK 92 ST 91 N/A UK www.eser-wein.de Baden Ortenau 2016 £30.20 Howard Ripley 91 GD 89 AK 94 ST 91 £38.75 The Wine Barn Lemon, lime, Williams pear and green apple N/A UK www.buergerspital.de Lush stone fruits are laced with fresh limes, POA Justerini & Brooks Lovely notes of ripe citrus, orange zest, lemon aromas lead into a plump and generous, A lovely note of lemon balm on the nose, N/A UK www.markgraf-von-baden.de apple skin and ripe, almost tropical fruit. Aromas of fresh white flowers, limes, green peel, juicy pear and yellow apple. The palate is powerful palate. It’s a rich style that will take a joined by fragrant floral notes. Lush fruit in the Taut, lean and zesty in its tangerine and lemon Generous and full but refreshing, thanks to the apples and a touch of passion fruit. Very pure, full-bodied, with distinct woody overtones long time to settle down. A very clean, long mouth with a ripe core of peach and aromatic peel expression. Green apple notes are driven acidity. There’s a pleasing mineral hit on the lean, racy and angular, with a citrus mid-palate and bright acidity leading to a long, warming finish. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 13% fruit. Lovely balance, and a zesty, herbal finish. by spiky acids. Weighty but balanced, with a ripe, lemon oil finish. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 12% and a pleasing minerality on the long finish. finish. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 12.5% Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13% juicy mineral finish. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13% Clean-cut style. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 12.5%

Dautel, Steingrüben, Württemberg Freimuth, Unterer Bischofsberg, Fürst Hohenlohe Oehringen, Schloss Vollrads, Schlossberg, Siegrist, Sonnenberg, Pfalz 2016 Von Othegraven, Altenberg, 2016 91 GD 91 AK 91 ST 91 Rheingau 2016 91 GD 91 AK 91 ST 90 Verrenberger Verrenberg, Rheingau 2016 91 GD 90 AK 94 ST 90 91 GD 90 AK 94 ST 90 Mosel 2016 91 GD 90 AK 92 ST 90 £36 Delibo N/A UK www.freimuth-wein.de Württemberg 2016 £29.40 Carruthers & Kent, Exel, Liberty, Nickolls & POA Amathus POA The Winery A reductive nose but with an abundance of Fragrant stone fruits and juicy pear aromas 91 GD 89 AK 93 ST 92 Perks An uncompromising wine, streamlined and A tropical nose of mango, passion fruit and fruit and structure underneath. Smooth and make this an approachable style. Rich, with N/A UK www.verrenberg.de A lifted, lemony nose leads into an open palate austere yet ripe and bone dry. A taut, textured minerals. It’s quite extracted and textured on fine on the palate, it has citric depth and ripe, juicy and ripe fruit in the mouth, it has an Citric perfume, summer blossom and apple that’s vibrant, concentrated and brimming mid-palate has pure lemon, lime and green the palate, showing tangy citrus fruits, elegant, juicy citrus fruits and mineral notes in exotic tropical element and nice texture. Very freshness lead into a very rich, slightly oily with citrus fruit, green apple, pear and white apple, plus a smooth, underpinning minerality. zestiness and a slender virtue, the phenolics what is a fairly rich and weighty package. much on the fruity side but not overblown. palate. A bit of spice, mineral touches and a flowers. It’s tangy, racy and textured, with a This needs time. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 12.5% keeping it going until the powerful finish. Drink 2018-2024 Alc 13% Drink 2018-2027 Alc 13% long, pure finish. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 12.5% mineral edge. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 13.5% Drink 2018-2029 Alc 12.5%

Graf Neipperg, Schwaigerner Grans-Fassian, Apotheke, Mosel Groebe, Kirchspiel, Rheinhessen Wegeler, Berg Schlossberg, Weltner, Hoheleite, Franken Wöhrwag, Untertürkheimer Ruthe, Württemberg 2016 2016 91 GD 92 AK 92 ST 88 2016 91 GD 90 AK 93 ST 90 Rheingau 2016 91 GD 89 AK 92 ST 91 2015 91 GD 92 AK 90 ST 90 Herzogenberg, Württemberg 91 GD 92 AK 92 ST 90 GD 90 AK 91 ST 91 N/A UK www.grans-fassian.de £43 Delibo N/A UK www.wegeler.com N/A UK www.weltnerwein.de 2016 91 N/A UK www.graf-neipperg.de A pretty, floral nose here, with hints of tropical The honeyed nose shows touches of lemon, The medicinal, herbal nose is lifted by notes of Ripe fruit and spice aromas are joined by a N/A UK www.woehrwag.de Touches of fern and grass on the nose. The fruit and nectarine. It’s concentrated on the while the palate displays incisive freshness Cox apple and peach. It’s textural and chalky line and a hint of dandelion. The viscous A rich and spicy style, with ripe stone fruits palate is rich, ripe and long, with noticeable palate, with a good mouthfeel and with clean and precise lines, and delightful balanced in the mouth, with upfront fruit and a palate has very ripe fruit and plenty of texture. and fresh, juicy acidity – it’s all at full volume spice and lovely plump fruit. Good acid and an lipsmacking acidity. There’s balancing fruit concentration. Balanced and textured, citric backbone. An easy style of Riesling. Smooth and long. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 14% here. Vivid and full, but balanced, with nice elegant finish. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 13% minerality and a feeling of ripe zestiness with a long, powerful, juicy finish and a mineral Drink 2019-2029 Alc 13% length. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 13% towards the finish. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 13% kick. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 13%

Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius- Jürgen Ellwanger, Schnaiter Leitz, Berg Kaisersteinfels Diel, Goldloch, Nahe 2016 Dr Loosen, Erdener Prälat Alte Graf von Bentzel Sturmfeder, Echter-Berg, Franken 2015 Altenberg, Württemberg 2016 Rüdesheim, Rheingau 2016 90 GD 90 AK 92 ST 89 Reben, Mosel 2015 Schozacher Roter Berg, 91 GD 89 AK 92 ST 92 91 GD 92 AK 92 ST 90 90 GD 89 AK 92 ST 89 91 GD 91 AK 94 ST 89 N/A UK www.diel.eu Württemberg 2016 GD 90 AK 90 ST 89 £30.99 The Wine Barn N/A UK www.weingut-ellwanger.de £50.20 ABS Wine Agencies A touch of bruised apple freshness on the £75.35 ABS Wine Agencies 90 Floral, zesty and rich on the nose, the vivid A rich and smoky nose with pithy lime notes, Aromatic scents of piercing, ripe lemon and honeyed nose. There’s some reductive Perfumed and aromatic, showing citrus zest N/A UK www.sturmfeder.de palate is round and powerful but balanced, minerals, oak moss, earth and a lovely, pure honeysuckle. Oak flavours come through as funkiness throughout but this is rather joyful, and citrus blossom on the nose. The palate has An elegant, perfumed nose of rich stone fruits with good viscosity. Notes of green apple are citrus fragrance. It has an appealing chalkiness pine resin on an ample palate with clean lines. with gorgeous apple freshness, length and a kind of herbal, grassy tinge, alongside sweet leads into a plump, rich palate – maybe a little lifted by bright acidity before a long finish. on the oily palate along with ripe stone fruit, Notes of apple skin, lime juice and minerality texture. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 12.5% peach and tangerine flavours. Slender and warm – with a lot of weight to the fruit, and a Drink 2019-2028 Alc 13.5% spice and juicy acidity. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 13% peeking through. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 12% layered. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 13% long finish. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 14% ➢

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