INSIDE

WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com Vol. 2, No. 18 • FREE

“It’s truly a gem of the Park Service.” — Kelly Clark, cultural resources specialist for the Dry Tortugas National Park

Music Bill Blue: T he king of Crazy Town. A17 

ATTHEDRYTORTUGASANDFORTJEFFERSON

BY LAURA HACKWORTH Florida Weekly Correspondent

ERUSE ANY GUIDEBOOK THAT CHRON- Bartender of the Week icles the top attractions in the Jennifer DiPalma and her girls Florida Keys and it’s a guarantee A16  that the Dry Tortugas and Fort PJefferson will make an appear- ance near the top of the list of must-see sites. The Dry Tortugas is one of the most spectacular (in my majorly biased opin- ion) national parks of the 59 that beautify our great nation and it lies a mere 68 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico. So named because Juan Ponce de León apparently caught 160 sea turtles there in 1513, the Dry Tortugas National Park tech-

SEE TORTUGAS, A10 

Top Picks Exciting things to try this week in our calendar. A8-9 

COURTESY PHOTOS The Dry Tortugas and Fort Jefferson are usually on lists of must-see sites in town.

Relaxation, Key West-style

BY LAURA HACKWORTH or live musicians’ twangs, each spilling out Florida Weekly Correspondent into the street to create an aural assault not unlike what New York City traffic sounds Key West’s reputation as a hard-partying like in Times Square. island town brings in hundreds of thousands Key West is truly a nonstop party year- of tourists each year who hope to capital- round, and everyone’s invited — and we ize on the abundance of bars. Party-seekers mean everyone. Leather-clad Harley riders make their way up and down Duval Street rev their engines (almost always unneces- Book review to the cacophonous tune of a seemingly sarily) for Bike Week. Super Boat babes COURTESY PHOTO endless number of bars’ bumping bass lines SEE RELAX, A12  Vichy showers help to wash away tension. A comprehensive compendium of must-dos in Key West. A15 

PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID THERE’S A LOT TO LIKE FORT MYERS, FL PERMIT NO. 715

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Visit us online at www.FloridaWeekly.com A2 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST OFF OFF DUVAL

Editor & Publisher Owen Killian An insider’s look at Key West [email protected] The most traveled and visible street little signage and inside feels like a world Key West night. in Key West is only the beginning, the away. The nautical-themed bar is warm ■ Better than Sex 926 Simonton St. surface, of what the town has to offer. Ask and homey. Small and large plates include Account Executive 305-296-8102; www.betterthansexkeywest. the locals about their favorite spots, stroll items such as roasted bone marrow and com. A great place for couples. Swing by Hannah Mein through quiet neighborhoods or down yellowtail snapper. Knowledgeable bar- [email protected] this dessert only, adults only restaurant alleyways off Duval Street and you’ll begin tenders mix up craft cocktails such as late in the evening. Indulge your senses Presentation Editor to dive deeper into the quieter, more Curse Like a Saler with gin, dolin blanc, with chocolate-dipped wine glasses and Eric Raddatz diverse and less readily apparent offerings. agave, basil, mint and grapefruit. Brilliant! cheeky homemade desserts and beverages [email protected] Here are eight spots that you might not see ■ Cornish Memorial African Meth- such as an Ephemere Apple Spiced Ale in at first glance. odist Episcopal Zion Church 702 White- a tall beer glass with a signature caramel Reporters ■ The Café 509 Southard St. 305-296- head St. Established in 1864 by former rim-job. Lick it good. Maxine Lopez-Keough 5515; www.thecafekw.com. This cozy, slave Sandy Cornish and his wife, Lillah. ■ Deuces “Off the Hook” Grill 728 Laura Hackworth innovative restaurant has been redefining The current building was built in 1894. Simonton St. 305-414-8428; www.offthe- Bucky Montgomery vegetarian cuisine for over 13 years. With a ■ The Reverend Long organized the hookkeywest.com. Tucked into a quiet warm Bohemian décor that includes local Bethel A.M.E Church in 1870 at 712 neighborhood, Off the Hook serves break- Graphic Designers art adorning the walls, the menu offers a Chris Andruskiewicz Duval St. It was destroyed by a fire in fast and lunch, but the creative and well- variety of options to suit all tastes along 1922 and the congregation then moved to executed dinner menu featuring fresh sea- Hannah Kruse with craft beers, organic wines and an Alisa Bowman the corner of Thomas Street and Truman food is especially enticing. Grouper in a array of sangria flavors plus fresh juices, Avenue. The building features masonry French bouillabaisse broth, Fish and Chips Paul Heinrich flavored house-made tonics or cafe kom- Scott Sleeper walls, twin towers in front and pointed- featuring mahi-mahi, and slow roasted bucha on tap. Omnivores will appreciate arch windows reminiscent of the Gothic Jamaican jerk chicken thighs are recom- Circulation Manager seafood dishes such as blackened mahi revival style. mended along with dark chocolate cov- Robin Falkner mahi and PEI mussels. The famous veggie ered banana bread for dessert. The Duck burger is not to be missed along with the ■ Key West Island Bookstore 513 [email protected] Fleming St. 305-294-2904; www.Keywes- BLT pizza is also delicious. It’s a small falafel, house-made spring rolls, quinoa space so reservations are recommended. Business Office Manager and avocado salad, stir-fries or fresh fish tislandbooks.com. This decades-old bou- Kelli Carico chimichurri tacos. Finish with vegan key tique bookstore offers a surprisingly var- ■ La Rubia Fine Hats 510 Fleming lime cheesecake or the vegan carrot cake. ied wealth of current and used titles, from St. 305-296-6059; www.larubiakeywest. Everything is made from scratch, so be best sellers to rare titles. Often open late, com. The Florida Keys’ only importer sure to check out the nightly specials. it’s an inviting place to browse among the of authentic Panama hats. The owners The Cafe also has an extensive weekend crowded stacks. developed this boutique to carry on the Published by centuries-old tradition of hand weaving Florida Media Group LLC brunch menu with bottomless mimosas. ■ Cuban Coffee Queen 284 Margaret hats, which come from Ecuador and not 100 Grinnell Street Grab a comfy colorful seat in front of the St. 305-292-4747; www.cubancoffeequeen. Key West, FL 33040 window or opt for takeout. They deliver. com. The strong Cuban coffee at this hole Panama by the way. There are styles for men and women in a wide array of colors Phone: 305.363.1310 ■ in the wall is also rich in Key West heri- 2 Cents Restaurant & Pub 416 Apple- and weaves. They also offer a nice selec- www.FloridaWeekly.com routh Lane, 305-414-8626; www.2centskw. tage. A Café Con Leche paired with a clas- sic Cuban sandwich or some Havana rice tion of wearable, fair trade crafts such as com. is right behind Leather Master and jewelry, ikat wraps and shigra. ■ just off Duval, but it’s hard to find with and beans will keep you going long into a Copyright: The contents of the Florida Weekly are copyright 2016 by Florida Media Group, LLC. No portion may be reproduced without the express written consent of Florida Media Group, LLC. Bands DJs L L Brunch Brunch Special Saturday & Sunday 2 for 1 Mimosas 10am-3pm

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A4 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST MAP IT OUT

Getting around Key West

1. Southernmost Point formers, local artisans, food carts, palm- 8. Mel Fisher Maritime Museum 305-294-2116 The corner of South Street and ists and psychics. 200 Greene St., Key West www.Audubonhouse.com Whitehead Street 305-294-2633 Original lithographs by John James www.southernmostpointwebcam.com 5. Truman Little White House www.melfisher.org Audubon are on display the former home The city of Key West erected this now 111 Front St. Exhibits include treasures from the of shipwreck salvager Captain John Geiger. famous concrete buoy in 1983 to denote www.trumanlittlewhitehouse.com Spanish galleons of 1622 discovered by the southernmost point in the continen- The Little White House adds a presi- Mel Fisher and his crew. 12. Key West City Cemetery tial United States. dential luster to the Conch Republic. Orig- Bordered by Angela, Frances, Olivia inally built for Naval officers in 1890 and 9. Mile Marker 0 Sign Streets and Windsor Lane 2. Conch Tour Train used as a command headquarters in three 490 Whitehead St., corner of Fleming 305-292-6718 303 Front St., Key West wars, the Little White House later served Street www.Friendsofthekeywestcemetary. 305-294-5161 or 888-916-8687 as lodging for President Harry S. Tru- U.S. 1 begins here in Key West, contin- com www.conchtourtrain.com man’s winter retreats from 1946 to 1952. ues 2,369 miles north up the East Coast, Stop by the sexton’s office near the The Conch Train has been winding and ends in Fort Kent, Maine. Stop here entrance at Passover Lane and Windsor its way through the streets of Key West 6. The Ernest Hemingway to commemorate your visit to Key West Lane for a map containing a free walking since 1958. Home & Museum with a photo next to the iconic Mile tour. 907 Whitehead St., Key West Marker 0 sign. 3. Sloppy Joe’s 305-294-1136 13. Fort Zachary Taylor 201 Duval St. www.hemingwayhome.com 10. Key West Express Ferry State Park and Beach 305-294-5717 Take the tour and say hello to one of Terminal Located at the ocean end of Southard www.sloppyjoes.com the 40 to 50 six-toed cats, all descendants 100 Grinnell Street Street and bordering the Naval Reserva- The historic bar has been a Key West of Hemingway’s cat, Snowball. 239-463-5733 tion. tradition since it opened in 1933. Its most www.Keywestexpress.net 305-295-0037 famous patrons were Ernest Hemming- 7. The Key West Butterfly Traveling via the Express is truly the www.Fortzacharytaylor.com way and the rum runner Habana Joe. & Nature Conservatory best way to get between Key West, Fort “Fort Zach” is known to locals and 1316 Duval St., Key West Myers Beach or Marco Island. You’ll tourists alike as one of Key West’s best 4. Mallory Square Sunset 305-296-2988 or 800-839-4647 enjoy air-conditioned interiors, exteri- beaches. In addition to the expansive Celebration www.keywestbutterfly.com or sun decks, couches, tables and even beach, there are nature trails, bike paths, 1 Whitehead St., Key West More than 50 different butterfly spe- reclining airline-style seating. There’s a and Historic Fort Zachary Taylor all with- 786-565-7448 cies from around the world and 20 dif- full-service galley, full-service bar and in a 54-acre park with picnic tables and www.sunsetcelebration.org ferent exotic bird species coexist in this flat-screen TVs with satellite television. grills. Experience the beautiful view of This nightly festival begins at the climate-controlled, glass-enclosed habitat the Atlantic Ocean and the Key West water’s edge about and hour or two that includes waterfalls, flowering plants 11. Audubon House and Garden Shipping Channel. ■ before sunset and includes street per- and trees. 205 Whitehead Street FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 A5 SALT Gallery hosts Garth Holtkamp’s ‘Technicolor Tropic’

BY LAURA HACKWORTH “The work I’m presenting at Florida Weekly Correspondent SALT is a stylized interpretation of the landscape of Key West,” Beginning Thursday, Aug. 3, Garth explains. “The main images SALT Gallery, 830 Fleming St., are of Key West landmarks such will host local artist Garth Holt- as Louie’s Backyard. These paint- kamp’s newest offerings for the ings were created ‘en plein-air’ on entire month of August. The site, which is a deviation from my show, titled “Technicolor Trop- usual process of developing my ic,” will feature contemporary images purely from memory.” architecture and stylized land- Garth has also included his scape paintings that exemplify popular palm tree pieces in his the vibrant colors and unique offerings at SALT this month. His architectural styles of Key West. palms are created from intricate To celebrate Garth’s newest piec- stencils that are drawn, carefully es, SALT will be hosting an open- cut and spray painted. Each palm ing reception at the gallery from stencil is only used a handful of 6-8 p.m. on Aug. 3. times, making each painting a Garth is a self-taught painter, limited edition. native to Key West, making him a Garth became connected true Conch who has spent his life to SALT Gallery through local immersed in the tropical landscape friends, the Nelson family. They of the Florida Keys. Garth’s work have been long-time collectors of has progressed from graffiti tags of both Garth and Katie Holtkamp’s his youth growing up in Old Town work and expressed their love of to fully crafted images on canvas, COURTESY IMAGE their art to friend and SALT gal- wood and vintage windows. lery owner, Maria Sharpe. The pieces Garth has created for Suzie dePoo, Ann Irvine, Andy Thurber were not only names I knew, but fam- “After meeting Garth and Katie, I “Technicolor Tropic” are a vivid expres- and Rick Worth have also provided end- ily friends who created an immersive knew that this partnership was a great sion of his love for his island home. less inspiration for his Keys-focused aes- artistic environment for me as a grow- fit,” Maria says. “Garth’s paintings are The sun, ocean, architecture and overall thetic. A master builder and accomplished ing artist,” he says. As he grew older, his truly unique and celebratory of the dis- landscape of the Keys are not just seen construction company owner, Garth is antics of teenage and young adulthood tinctive Key West aesthetic and we are in his work, but are transmitted intense- also inspired by the homes he builds and left time for only quick graffiti-style so excited to feature these works of art ly to the viewer via technicolor paint renovates as a carpenter. work, usually in route to a social gather- at SALT.” choices and expressive line work. The Garth has always created art in some ing. Then he met a fellow artist, Katie, Gallery owners Maria Sharpe and contemporary island scenes he creates form or another. His mother was a who would later become his wife. She Laura Hackworth feature a new artist are sweetly familiar yet offer a dream- central figure in the Key West art com- pushed him to begin painting actual art each month at SALT Gallery. Holtkamp’s like experience to the viewer. munity in the 1980s and 1990s, providing pieces and, over the last 12 years, Garth work will remain on display until Aug. Garth’s major art world influences are Garth with a constant influx of creative has continued to paint (legally, these 31. For more information, call 305-517- David Hockney, Andy Warhol and Edward energy at home. days) and has cultivated a signature 6088 or visit www.saltislandprovisions. Hopper. Local Key West artists such as “The local artists that inspired me style. com. ■ A6 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST LOCAL FOCUS What it means to be a local BY JENNIFER WHITE “I don’t know what to say. Florida Weekly Correspondent It’s hard to put a word to Sometimes, it’s as if every day in Key West is the same. it. I guess I will miss my It’s easy to get caught up in the twi- sense of home.” light vortex of Duval Street. It’s always much too tempting to get lost in the labyrinth of worn out bars, — Jaclyn (Jackie) Lee, speaking kitschy stores and cozy museums. about leaving Key West It’s easy to forget that there is so much more to our paradise than just the tourist traps and the local hang outs. who will keep open arms in case she It is the people who come and go who ever decides to return. are at the heart. If you ask a local what They are the employers who would it is that makes this place so special, he make room for her at any moment’s or she will tell you it’s the community. notice, whether its teaching, scuba div- Here, we are one very big human family. ing or bartending. We are why this place is home. They are the fourth graders at Sigs- As I write this, Jaclyn Lee, or Jackie bee Charter School, whom she has as most here would call her, has less taught and watched grow. Even if they than two weeks left before she leaves don’t yet know it, they will miss her Key West to see what her hometown message of hope. She honestly believes of Boston has to offer. Her reasons are in the next generation. simple. She misses her family and she One of the things Jackie liked to do has been given an opportunity to chal- every morning was to have the kids say lenge herself. It’s what she lives for. something nice about another student. After all, she secretly wants to save the She taught them how to be kind to each world. other and to allow others to be them- Yet it happens all too often that selves. Not once was there any kind people leave the Keys, venture out into of bullying in her class and not once the unknown and come running right did she tell them that they couldn’t be back as though living on the mainland different. She nurtured the individu- was just a really bad nightmare. Some al. Hopefully they will keep passing it people have left four of five times. This on and help inspire others to keep the is Jackie’s first. In her 10 years here she free spirit going. has, like so many of the misfits before COURTESY PHOTOS She herself is inspired by the peo- her, left an impression on the people Jaclyn Lee playing dress up during Fantasy Fest like a true local. ple who go against the herd, who are

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Check the schedule at SPECIAL EVENTS www.sloppyjoes.com CINEMA Irish Kevin’s 211 Duval St. Live Music Nightly Check the schedule at www.irishkevins.com Thursday Night Comedy Show Thursday, 7:30 to 10 p.m. The Blue Room 1128 Simonton St. Tickets available at Made in Havana/Made in www.comedykeywest.com Tropic Cinema Key West Art Exhibit 416 Eaton St. Opening Reception www.tropiccinema.com Aug. 3, 6 to 8 p.m. MUSIC Check the website for ongoing films The Studios of Key West Little Room Jazz Club 533 Eaton St. 821 Duval St. www.tskw.org Live Jazz Nightly LGBT Check the schedule at www.Littleroomjazzclub.com Mary Ellen’s 420 Appelrouth Lane The Porch Trivia, Tuesday Nights, 6:30 429 Caroline St. Cowboy Mark’s 45’s and Golden Oldies Check the schedule at Thursday nights at 8 p.m. www.Theporchkw.com 24th annual Battle of the Bars Aug. 6, 12 to 6 p.m. Schooner Wharf Bar Aqua Nightclub 202 William St. 711 Duval St. Aqua Idol for the Florida Keys SPCA Summer Smackdown- Tuesdays, 6:30 Sign up and Kickoff Drag Shows Island wide artistic challenge Nightly, 7 and 9 p.m. Aug. 6, 6 p.m. Green Parrot Bar Karaoke The Key West Theater 601 Whitehead St. Monday through Thursday, 11 p.m. 512 Eaton St. Live Music Nightly PHOTOGRAPHY www.Aquakeywest.com Check the schedule at www.greenparrot.com Photographs from the permanent collection Ongoing Key West Art and Historical Society Custom House 281 Front St. www.Kwahs.org Smoking Tuna Homegrown Bobby’s Monkey Bar 4 Charles St. Photographs by Michael Marrero Labyrinth Movie Live Music Nightly 900 Simonton St. Ongoing Karaoke-Nightly except Wednesdays, Sing Along-Free Check the schedule at Gallery on Greene Aug. 9, 7 p.m. www.smokingtunasaloon.com 9:30 p.m. 606 Greene St. Bobby’s Monkey Bar on Facebook The Key West Theater www.galleryongreene.com 533 Eaton St. Bourbon St. Pub 724 Duval St. COMEDY Rocky Bottom-Wednesdays 8 to 10 p.m. The Men of Bourbon-Nightly Comedy Open Mike Night www.BourbonSt.pub.com Mondays, 9 p.m. Mary Ellen’s Bar and Restaurant Sloppy Joe’s 801 Bourbon Bar 420 Appelrouth Lane 201 Duval St. 801 Duval St. Live Music Nightly Drag Shows-Nightly, 9 and 11 p.m.

AMSTERDAM’S Curry Mansion Inn A Historic Bed & Breakfast with a daily cocktail party and a nightly happy hour. COMEDYCOMEDY KEYKEY WESTWEST Located half a block from Duval Street with renowned restaurants, legendary bars, live music, theater and shopping. Key West’s only weekly @ THE BOTTLECAP’S BLUE ROOM stand up comedy show at the 1128 SIMONTON STREET Self-Guided Tours Daily 8:30AM to 5:00PM southernmost comedy venue EVERY THURSDAY (Adults: $5.00 donation, Children under 12 are free. $OOSURFHHGVEHQHÀWWKH)ORULGD.H\V63&$ in the US with the best DDQUĝDO>ĝľZĝúO=ĝĝþĝĝU&DjĝľZĝúÿõòO= House tours available for non guests stand up comics from all over 28 Unique Rooms To Choose From ğóòĝ)>ĝľiľ> ĝĖĝğó÷ĝľZĝZ&ĝDDQ All Inclusive Price With Room & Breakfast the world, from rising stars to &$52/,1(67‡.(<:(67 household names. WWW.COMEDYKEYWEST.COM (305) 294-5349 www.currymansion.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 A9 KEY WEST CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Happy Hour Drag-5 p.m. Saturdays Drag Karaoke-4 p.m. Sundays ■ Benefitting local charities, Messy Mondays with Mulysa- the 24th annual Battle of 1 a.m. Mondays #KW Fierce and Fabulous/Dragalicious- the Bars, is a day of beers, 1 a.m. Wednesdays bartenders, margaritas and www.801bourbon.com mayhem. Join the fun Aug. 6, noon to 6 p.m., Schooner Wharf Bar, 202 William St.

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■ Text goes here and here Event Name Here Date xyxy yx yxy ime xyx yxyxy location. Date xyxy yx yxy ime xyx yxyxy location. Date xyxy yx La Te Da yxy ime xyx yxyxy location. 1125 Duval St. — weblink.com 3Sum, Aug. 4, 5 and 6, 8:30 p.m. Randy Roberts, Aug. 3 and 5, 9 p.m. 8.6 Christopher Peterson, Aug. 8, 9 p.m. PHOTO MELISSA PEARSON / COURTESY Deborah and Patrick, Aug. 7 and 8, 8:30 p.m. ■ Be it visual arts or Tea Dance-Sundays 4 to 6:30 8.68.6 performing arts, all www.Lateda.com are welcome in the Summer Smackdown AROUND KEY WEST -Sign up and Kickoff: Island wide artistic challenge, Aug. 6, 6 p.m., The Key West Theater, 512 Eaton St.

Ghost Tours and Ghost Hunts Nightly ■ Come dressed 301 Whitehead St. and 1102 Duval St. as your favorite

(305) 395-1435 BY PETER VEY VISTA” “MENDIVE’S MANTO BLANCO PATIO www.hauntedkeywest.com 8.3 Labyrinth Green Market character for 8.9 Bayview Park ■ This summer, many of the Labyrinth North Roosevelt and Jose Marti Drive Cuba’s preeminent artists Movie Sing Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Key West Greenmarket on Facebook ■ are featured at the Made in Along-Free, Havana/Made in Key West Aug. 9, 7 Art Exhibit. Opening Reception, p.m., The Aug. 3, 6 to 8 p.m., The Studios Key West of Key West, 533 Eaton St. Theater, — www.tskw.org 533 Eaton St.

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*Restrictions apply. See server for full details. A10 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST TORTUGAS From page 1 nically comprises the seven Dry Tor- tugas islands as well as Fort Jefferson — a gargantuan, unfinished, hexagonal fortress built of red brick and largely abandoned (save for the roughly 60,000 annual visitors who come to learn about the fort’s history and snorkel the vibrant reefs around her perimeter). It may not be easy to get out there, but the voyage is worth it for both the fascinat- ing (and somewhat macabre) history of the fort and the access to one of the best-preserved reef ecosystems in the Western Hemisphere. There are a few ways to get to the Dry Tortugas National Park and its jewel- like chain of islands. Which way is right for you depends entirely on your toler- ance for being close to other people, how long you’re willing to wait to get to your destination, how comfortable you are on choppy seas, how interested you are in spotting whales from the sky and how much money you deem to be a ridiculous sum to pay to travel there. The cheapest of options — not in- cluding one very exhausting swim — is to buy a ticket for a ride on the Yankee COURTESY PHOTOS Freedom III, a high-speed catamaran Fort Jefferson is a beacon for ships and tour- that ferries zinc-nosed visitors back ists, who travel 68 miles by boat or sea plane and forth daily between Key West and to visit the Civil-War-era fort. Fort Jefferson, the Civil War-era island middle of what appears to be an end- fortress. The ferry ride is fast, relatively less, uninhabited sea. The whole flight speaking: a little over two hours if the lasts about 40 minutes and the planes seas are calm, during which an onboard are able to land at times both before naturalist points out areas of interest as and after the ferry. That means pas- they zoom by. The boat boasts a large sengers often find themselves strolling tiered bow, food, drinks, freshwater and sunbathing across what feels like rinses for your post-swim trip home, in- their own private island, its reef and door air-conditioned seating and plen- beaches mercifully quiet and deserted. ty of outdoor observation deck space The trip provides free soft drinks and for taking selfies against a backdrop of snorkel gear, but the much-higher cost turquoise water. Included with the pur- compared to a ferry ticket (a whopping chase price of one $175-adult ticket are $578 for a full eight-hour day, or $329 breakfast and lunch, a voluntary guided for four hours, both including travel tour of the fort and its riveting history, time) can be off-putting to some, while as well as complimentary snorkeling to others, having a picturesque desert equipment to use exploring the truly island to themselves for a few hours spectacular reef structure surrounding is practically priceless. You can close the fort’s main island. your eyes, block out the other 11 or so In addition to its pristine underwa- passengers, and picture yourself back ter vistas, the Dry Tortugas also offer in the time of good ol’ Ponce de León, postcard-perfect white sand beaches pulling in turtles and soaking up the and views that look like B-roll foot- sun before setting out to find the foun- age from the latest Pirates of the Ca- tain of youth and accidently ramming ribbean movie. People who travel to into Cuba. the Keys expecting miles of powdery For Kelly Clark, cultural resources beach snuggled up against a crystalline specialist for the Dry Tortugas National sea often are disappointed to find that Park, it’s not all fun, games and masked our beaches are decidedly more rustic booby sightings. Since 2007, Clark than those belonging to our Caribbean has been tasked with maintaining the neighbors. But on a good weather day, built environment of the park, includ- the beauty of the Dry Tortugas is inef- ing the fort, lighthouses and underwa- fable, a shimmering gradient of blues ter archeological sites. Unsurprisingly, and greens layered on top of super-fine, old, crumbling ruins tend to want to snow-white sand, stretching toward a crumble more. It’s Clark who assesses horizon dotted with piratey-looking the conditions of each structure, docu- ship silhouettes, the kind of quintes- ments its state and plans future pres- sentially tropical setting that makes for at an altitude low enough for dazzling ervation projects. She is effusive when excellent computer screen wallpaper. sightseeing. Flights are limited to un- describing why the park is a must-see The islands also act as a crucial lay- der a dozen passengers. The ride itself for anyone in the area. over for migratory birds, making them includes a guided audio tour of the jaw- “It’s truly a gem of the Park Service,” an ornithologist’s perfect tropical vaca- dropping spectacle below. It’s a freak- she says, noting that while it takes com- tion spot. Eight of the almost 300 spe- ing spectacle of shipwrecks, shifting mitment to reach the park, the rewards cies that stop over at the fort choose sand dunes, sharks, and turtles are all are well worth the journey. Protecting to nest within the island’s protected easily spotted thanks to each passenger such an unspoiled paradise takes con- borders, including birder favorites like having a window seat. stant vigilance, which is why the entire the roseate tern, magnificent frigate, There is something very genteel chain of islands is classified as a “pack masked booby, sooty tern and brown about the whole experience. You board in, pack out” site, meaning all visitors noddy. The last four of which nest no- at the private airplane section of the (including those who choose to camp where else in the United States. COURTESY PHOTO airport. You are ferried onto your sea- out for the night on Garden Key) must And then, of course, there’s the name: A footbridge leading to the main gate at Fort plane, ice water in hand, and given a set provide their own resources when they gifted by famed fountain of youth-seek- Jefferson, Garden Key, Dry Tortugas National of cool-looking headphones through arrive and then take those resources er Ponce de León himself. He named Park. which your guided tour plays. Once and any trash they create back with the islands after their combined lack airborne, with noses pressed against them when they leave. Though fishing of fresh water and overabundance of The Yankee Freedom III caps its one’s private window, a scene befitting is allowed in 52 percent of the park’s tasty sea turtles. History buffs will love passenger load at 150 — cozy to some, National Geographic floats peacefully 47,125 acres, the park strictly forbids traipsing around the circa-1875, old intolerable to others. The latter group beneath you. lobstering and spearfishing. Anchoring brick fort, the largest all-masonry for- will want to shell out the extra cash to You’ll marvel at just how many kinds sites are diligently monitored to ensure tress in the United States, and learning book a seat on one of Key West Sea- of blue there are before Garden Key — the integrity of the sea floor remains about its engrossing and sometimes bi- plane Adventures’ small seaplanes, the specific island on which Fort Jef- uncompromised. zarre history. which fly customers across the ocean ferson sits — comes into view in the FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 A11

It’s not just the sheer wonder its ously occupied by pirates in prison’s physician. He was able to suc- natural beauty inspires that makes the the 1600s and 1700s, who cessfully stave off the continued spread park, and Fort Jefferson in particular, took advantage of the island’s of the disease, a feat that won him the so special to the estimated 63,000 an- prime position in the Gulf pardon of President Johnson, after sur- nual visitors. The island boasts a rich, to attack passing merchant viving prisoners wrote to the president storied history, once having served ships. and described Mudd’s brave service as a home to naval officers and their If you were to brush off your during the epidemic. Pardon granted, families, lighthouse keepers, prison- old history books, they might Mudd was allowed to leave the prison ers, slaves and one particularly famous mention that during the Civil in 1869 and return home to Maryland. doctor. Fans of American history flock War, Key West remained a By 1874 the fort had become too to the island to witness in person Fort Union stronghold despite its expensive to maintain as a military Jefferson’s magnificence. Otherwise decidedly southern location. stronghold and was abandoned by the known as the “Gibraltar of the Gulf,” Its own fortress, Fort Zachary, army to be used instead as a coaling the 16-million brick, three-tiered for- paired with the Dry Tortugas’ station for warships. One final, famous tress, housed some of the most ad- Fort Jefferson, were tasked visitor, the USS Maine, departed from vanced military weapons available in with protecting the Florida Fort Jefferson to begin its fateful mis- its heyday. Other visitors enjoy sitting Straights and Gulf of Mexico sion to Cuba, after which the fort began on a beach knowing that it was previ- from any Confederate boats a slow decline into what would have that might otherwise attempt been ruin had it not received classifica- to come to shore to re-sup- tion as a National Monument by Presi- ply. In addition, Fort Jeffer- dent Franklin D. Roosevelt. Though it son was used to house Union wasbriefly closed during the federal deserters banished to mili- government’s 1995-1996 shutdown, resi- tary prison. The actual con- dents of Key West were able to pull to- struction of the fort, begun gether the funding to keep the property in 1846, continued over the open to visitors. next 36 years, during which Since then, visitors have arrived in it hosted one particularly in- droves by boat and plane to wind their famous prisoner by the name way through the fort, where tour guides of Dr. Samuel Mudd. delight in pointing out Mudd’s old pris- When John Wilkes Booth, COURTESY PHOTOS on cell. Some come simply to enjoy the the American stage actor re- The Fort Jefferson moat, above, and the crystal clear immaculate ecosystem of the property, sponsible for assassinating waters of the Gulf of Mexico surround Civil War historic ensured by its establishment and con- President Abraham Lincoln, Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas. tinued protection as a national park in fled the theater in which 1992. he’d committed the crime, event. It didn’t look good for Dr. Mudd. “As visitors begin to hear about the he broke his leg, reportedly when a Later, having been convicted in the history and comprehend the role that horse fell on him (karma can indeed be conspiracy of President Lincoln’s as- the fort and the geography of the Dry quite the saucy wench). He arrived at sassination, Mudd arrived at the prison Tortugas played in the larger theme of the doorstep of Dr. Mudd, a pro-slavery of Fort Jefferson as a pariah. He spent maritime and military history, it be- tobacco farmer who set and bandaged two years as an inmate inside the fort’s comes hard to under-emphasize why it Booth’s broken leg, then allowed him impenetrable, badly ventilated walls. is so special,” says Clark. “Words do not COURTESY PHOTO to hide out in an upstairs bedroom. Af- When a particularly contagious spat of do these resources justice, and it’s by Dr. Samuel Mudd as he appeared as a federal ter he’d had a nice, recuperating rest, yellow fever swept through the prison, far one of the most photogenic places prisoner while working in the carpenter’s Booth scampered the following morn- killing both the prison’s resident doc- one could visit,” she says. “Not to men- shop in the military prison at Fort Jefferson, ing, after which Mudd waited a full 24 tor and a large percentage of inmates, tion,” she adds wisely, “You can’t shovel circa 1866-1867. hours before notifying the police of the Mudd stepped in to fill the role of the sunshine.” ■

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therapists are knowledgeable and super talented. Many of them have travelled RELAX extensively to master the best techniques From page 1 in the world. It’s rare to feel as though the person taking care of you is enjoying as much as you are, but the staff at Spa Terre dress in their lowest-cut tops for the seem to have a genuine passion for the races. Airbrush-painted grandmas (you transformative effects their work has on will never be able to unsee that) strut their clients. proudly down Duval Street during Fan- Therapist Erin DePalma, who has been tasy Fest. Conch-slurping-crustacean- building a devoted list of clients in Key lovers gorge themselves at the Seafood West for eight years, sums it up best. Festival. Nubile, inebriated coeds cruise “I enjoy performing massage on my down from Miami for the weekend and guests because I know I am making them there are about a zillion other subcultures feel better,” she says, simply. “We get to on display. provide a service that addresses their It’s a diverse hodgepodge of sun-kissed health and wellness needs, coupled with a (or often, sun-crisped) skin, frozen drinks, relaxing and unforgettable experience in dancing with drag queens and bar crawl- a magical location like Key West.” ing till the wee hours. COURTESY PHOTOS You’re guaranteed to leave the spa feel- You can get a piña colada served inside Aromatic candles enhance the spa experience. ing like a million bucks. Thankfully, you a pineapple right next to the store that won’t have to spend nearly as much to will sell you a commemorative T-shirt achieve it. Spa Terre, to be specific — a luxurious, boasting “SPRING BREAK (insert year If treading water in the pool at Dante’s mercifully serene mecca for those suffer- here).” bar while double-fisting cocktails is your ing from a case of the “I-swear-I’m-never- You can order a tequila sunrise at the idea of a workout, the Gentle Flow class drinking-again.” You’ll want to call ahead Garden of Eden bar and stand butt naked at Shakti Yoga might be just your speed. and book the Duval detox treatment, while enjoying your cocktail in the blaz- Held daily at hangover-friendly hours which pairs a purifying body wrap with a ing midday sun. — please, no crack-of-dawn, get-up-and- deeply relaxing vichy shower experience. But where do you go if you’re in the greet-the-day type stuff after a night of And if you’ve never experienced a vichy mood for a little bit of R&R to go with carousing — it’s a great place to slowly shower (what are you, a savage?) picture your rum punch? Whether your recupera- stretch out your tired limbs and get ready this: it’s like the best shower you’ve ever tion style is sweating out the toxins with for another day of sun and salted rims. taken in your whole miserable, hung-over an early-morning yoga class, or having a This laid-back studio and cafe, run by life, and you get to do it while a very masseuse put all your muscles back into owner Sofia Artola, has been in the busi- expensive machine, piloted by a licensed place after a night of wild dancing at ness of healing people since 2004 It’s the therapist, aims a series of shower heads at Rick’s, rest assured that there’s a place in type of place that makes one feel virtu- your body, melting away all your tension Key West ready to get you back on your ous just by walking through the door. and regret. If that’s not enough to get you feet in under two hours. Sink into one of the cozy couches or going, the spa’s signature Javanese Royal If, the morning after your Duval crawl, floor poufs while enjoying one of the treatment should seal the deal. It starts you find yourself cemented to your pil- café’s reanimating tonics, teas, smooth- with an aromatic Balinese massage, fol- low by a layer of drool, your head aching Spa Terre relies on mostly organic, ies and elixirs, all of which are packed lowed by an exfoliating lulur body scrub as though the entire cymbal section of biodynamic ingredients for its treat- with ingredients meant to cleanse and (a traditional Javanese treatment meant FSU’s drum line has decided to practice ments, and offers express services if repair, minus the usual tree-bark-stewed- to clarify and invigorate the skin) and between your ears, then get thyself to the you’re pressed for time. The staff that sets in-swamp-water taste you get at so many finishes with a long soak in a rose-petal- spa, fast. this spa apart from the competition. Its “pure food” places. Chase a “Hot Shot” filled bath. (lemon, ginger, cayenne and turmeric)

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COURTESY PHOTO Nothing beats a relaxing day at the spa. with a “Killer Masala Chai” (mayanjali chai spiked with a shot of espresso) and you’ll be back on your feet in no time. Follow your rejuvenating tonic up with a Gentle Flow and you’ll feel like a brand new (wo)man. Muhammad Ali famously said, “The will must be stronger than the skill.” If you can will yourself to the gym after one too many at Virgilio’s dangerously affordable Martini Mondays, it’s trainer Raquel Robbins — famous for whipping even the most determinedly sloth-like into shape — who you’ll want to see for a workout. Robbins sets up shop at Stay AMERICAN CLASSIC EATS Fit Studio in Key West, where she helps clients tone (and atone) with a rigor- WITH A TWIST. ous regimen of pilates, yoga, spin and TRX classes. An AFAA certified personal trainer with a background in massage and UNIQUE MUSIC EXPERIENCES. nutritional consulting, she’s known for her no-nonsense training style. Robbins will kick your sorry butt and won’t ever JAW-DROPPING MEMORABILIA. let you give up even if your legs start to buckle underneath you. Quads, you have strength. The house ramen — pork shoul- been warned. der and belly, soft egg, nori, scallion — If it’s your mind that needs detoxing, comes in both normal and cauldron-sized there’s no better place to do it than the portions. The “can of fun” in question Key West Botanical Garden’s Nature Cha- is actually Funaguchi, a fresh sake that pel. It’s here that the Key West Tara Man- is neither pasteurized nor diluted. Take dala (a Tibetan Buddhist group) meet both with water, a side order of steamed twice a week to meditate, study Buddhist pork buns or dumplings, rest and repeat texts and practice various mind-clearing if necessary (and it will almost always be techniques. Meetings happen on Wednes- necessary). days from 6 - 7:15 p.m. and on Saturdays And if all else fails, there’s always the from 10 a.m. to noon. You don’t have to hangover hospital, whose “Lazarus Pack- be a Buddhist to join. The group wel- age,” a 45-minute IV-infusion of electro- comes people of all faiths and levels of lytes, pain killers, vitamins, anti-nausea experience. If you’re intending to “eat, and anti-inflammatory medicines, and KEY WEST pray, love” your trip to Key West, you’ll something called oxygen therapy, promis- 313 DUVAL ST. | +1-305-293-0230 be hard-pressed to find a better place to es to get you from death bed to remission knock out the pray part than with this in under one hour. The clinic offers free group. hotel and house calls, though the cost for HARDROCK.COM #THISISHARDROCK There are many who argue the only going back in time and not calling all your way to recover from a particularly hard exes at 3 a.m. has yet to make the official night is via that age-old therapy, the hair price list. We’ll keep an eye out. ©2017 Hard Rock Cafe International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved. of the dog. There are countless spots to Meanwhile, enjoy your carefree night do so, but ordering a steaming hot bowl out prowling Duval Street knowing that of house ramen and a “can of fun” at Kojin Key West will help you recover just in Noodle Bar is practically prescription- time to do it all over again tomorrow. ■ A14 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST KEY WEST GALLERY GUIDE

For a comprehensive guide and The Historic map to Key West’s finest art gal- Armory Studios leries, visit www.keysarts.com/art- 600 White St. ist_connections/gallery_guide.pdf. Paintings by Michael J. Phillips SPECIAL EVENTS Ongoing THIS WEEK [email protected] 704-819-2487

Mixed media work by Sherry Sweet Tewell Ongoing SALT Gallery www.Sherrysweettewell.com 830 Fleming St. or [email protected] 859-533-1874 ■ Garth Holtkamp- Technicolor Tropic Opening Reception Aug. 3, 6 to 8 p.m. Key West Art and Historical Society

Custom House Museum 281 Front St.

The Navy in Key West Ongoing COURTESY PHOTO A piece from Garth Holtkamp’s Tennessee Williams, show, titled “Technicolor Tropic,” The Playwright and Painter at SALT Gallery. Ongoing Holtkamp is a self-taught painter, www.Kwahs.org native to Key West. FLORIDA WEEKLY WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 A15 KEY WEST WRITERS Spice A comprehensive compendium UP YOUR of must-dos in Key West BY LAURA HACKWORTH order to put together a guide that will SUMMER Florida Weekly Correspondent satisfy even the pickiest of travelers. “The Very Best 153 Things You Must IN ■ “Bucky’s Key West Today: The Do” is well-researched and wittily writ- Very Best 153 Things You Must Do” ten, as entertaining as it is informative. If you’re in town visiting, grab a copy Key West! by Bucky Montgomery. CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform. to make sure you’re hitting the sites 208 pages. Paperback, $18.38. worth seeing. If you’re already fortunate enough to live here, use Bucky’s guide So, you’re visiting Key West (or to get out of your comfort zone — check maybe you even live here) and you out an attraction up the Keys, hit a local Official Outfitter think you know all there is to know event you’d never heard of, or just flip in Key West! about every inch of this seven-square open to a random page for inspiration. mile island. You know the best place to And no matter whether you’re a tour- Alluring Atmosphere watch the sunset is Mallory Square. You ist or a local, it is imperative that you know you must have a slice of Key lime remember Bucky’s #1 tip: “We are one of Pleasure, Fun and pie (and chances are you have strong human family. So. Just be you. And love Fantasy filled with: feelings about the Kermit’s vs. Blue one another.” Heaven debate). You know you can Jet • Bridal Lingerie Ski, parasail or go out for a sunset sail About the author on a real working schooner any day of Louisville-born Bucky Montgomery • Intimate Apparel the week. is an artist, writer, musician, publisher, • Exotic Fashions But did you know about the Driftwood host and a promoter of various annual Castle, hidden on a secluded stretch of Key West functions. He has lived in Key • Sensual beach sandwiched between Geiger Key West for the better part of 20 years. He Accessories and the Navall writes for Flor- Air Station att ida Weekly’s • Playful Novelties mile marker 10.5?? Key West edi- • And Much What about Jules’ tion, is a regular Undersea Lodge, guest and host Much More! the underwater on various radio hotel located in shows, produc- the lagoon at Key es the annual Largo Under- Best of Key West seas Park? If the singer/song- answer to either writer compi- of those is no, lation CDs, has Îäx°Ó™Ó°ä{{nÊUÊxÓ{ÊÀœ˜ÌÊ-ÌÀiiÌ]ÊiÞÊ7iÃÌÊUÊÜÜÜ°v>ˆÀۈ>°Vœ“ then you should seven of his own pick up a copy CDs on iTunes of “Bucky’s Key (including two West Today: from bands The Very Best SLASG and Whether you’re on vacation 153 Things You Dorothy Boy), or a local pressed for time, Must Do” and is the author of TendBar can help! let a long-time a series of fan- TENDBAR Key West resi- tasy novels and dent school you has done artwork on what’s really for businesses worth seeing all around the and doing off world, includ- TendBar is the go-to delivery service the beaten path ing Heavy Metal in the Florida magazine, the for alcohol, groceries, and food delivery Keys. San Jose Sharks In the intro- NHL team, Atari throughout the Lower Keys. duction to his latest book, local Key and the Kentucky Opera. West author Bucky Montgomery admits Bucky has bartended, owned a res- Simply let us know that “153 things doesn’t come close to taurant/bar called Bucky’s, worked as covering (the Florida Keys) and is by a morgue attendant, was a rifleman what you need delivered, no means comprehensive.” But over the in an ultralight infantry cohort unit and TendBar Ravi ensuing 200 pages of his “Very Best 153 in the United States Army and was a Things You Must Do,” he takes a serious law enforcement officer, among other will take care of the rest. stab at covering as many local events, careers (some more legal than others). sites and attractions as could ever be His next project is a science thriller catalogued by the average writer. In called “Animal Kingdom – the Extinc- fact, Bucky has spent the last 10 years tion Virus,” due to drop in fall 2017. ■ compiling every possible thing there is to do in the Keys for his Key West TODAY Facebook page, so the book is by far the most comprehensive Florida Keys travel guide you’re going to get (and also by far the most unique travel guide you’ll ever pick up, period). For example, a “what’s what” guide of Key West and the Florida Keys may be the only place in the world where you will find a feature on hangover helpers TENDBAR (#90) juxtaposed across the page from “Attend an AA Meeting” (#86), but hey, we’re at the end of the road — we deal in perplexing contradictions around these parts. Bucky also uses some of the items to dole out general advice, as Hours: 8:30 AM to 7:00 PM 7 days a week in #112 on his list: “Moderate. Yes, it’s
r
a party town. Just moderate. You don’t Call/Text: want to wake up in the morning on the COURTESY PHOTO 908.797.9430 sidewalk. Or worse.” Author Bucky Montgomery subtly promotes Email: [email protected] www.tendbar.us Bucky has truly mined the depths of his book, “Bucky’s Key West Today: The Very r Florida Keys attractions and events in Best 153 Things You Must Do.” A16 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST BARTENDER OF THE WEEK Jennifer DiPalma and her girls BY BUCKY MONTGOMERY If karaoke is your thing, step in off Florida Weekly Correspondent the street and seize the microphone. There are drink specials, crazy themes Smack dab in the middle of Duval and over 10,000 songs to choose from, Street, on the 800 block, where the inter- Wednesdays starting at 8 p.m., and on section at Petronia Street is squared off Sundays from 4 to 9 p.m. with rainbow colored crosswalks, sits On Sundays from 10 p.m. till 4 a.m., the colorful and glamorous 801 Bourbon it’s SIN (Service Industry Night). Drink Bar. There is always something enter- specials change hourly (from 10 to 11 p.m. taining going on inside, upstairs in the it’s $3 bottled beers, from 11 to midnight cabaret hall or out on the streets, where 2-for-1 Tito’s cocktails, from midnight to the “girls” are all dolled up and hawking 1 a.m. it’s $5 Captain Morgans, from 1 to passersby to step inside and see a show. 2 a.m. it’s $5 Deep Eddy cocktails, from 2 For over 25 years the Key West drag to 3 a.m. it’s 2-for-1 three-olive cocktails, scene has been ruled over by the grande and, if you’re still standing at that point, dame of drag herself, the delectable Sushi from 3 to 4 a.m. it’s $3 Jameson, Jager and her bevy of drag queen beauties. and Fireball shots.) A membership card “I love my drag queen girls,” bartend- is required, but they’re easy to get. Just er Jennifer DiPalma said as she busily ask your bartender. And if you don’t prepared the cabaret bar before the start want to wait until 10 p.m. to start drink- of the night’s first show. “For the most ing, they offer $5 Long Island iced teas part, we are one big happy family here.” all day on Sundays. Jennifer was born and raised a long If you’d like to catch Jenn behind way from Key West, near the Canadian the bar, she works Friday and Saturday border in snowy Buffalo, N.Y. Her father nights upstairs for the drag shows, from was a welder and her mother worked 7:30 p.m. to 1 a.m., on Sundays from 4 to in a hospital that assisted those with job was at Mangoes, as a server, and I my kitty, Aphrodite.” 9 p.m. downstairs at the main bar, and dementia. She attended Buffalo State as worked at Duffy’s Steakhouse for a few The cabaret shows are nightly at 9 on Mondays from 7:30 p.m. to around an art major while working as a server years.” and 11 p.m., and it’s often standing room 12:30 a.m. and hostess at a restaurant and bar Then, four years ago, she joined the only. It’s best to call ahead and make res- “This island is one of the most beau- called Papa Jake’s. crazy staff at 801. ervations. Sometimes on busy weekends tiful places in the world,” she said. “In 2004, I came down here on vaca- “I also bartended at the Oriole for they add a 7 p.m. performance. “People come here from all around the tion with my boyfriend at the time. My a few years, but recently quit. I had to Every Sunday 801 features Drag world because it’s so beautiful. And for best friend lived up in New Smyrna pick one or the other.” Queen Bingo, hosted by the always the most part, everybody is really cool.” Beach. We stayed here a week, then When she’s not working, she says funny and outrageous Qmitch Jones at Be sure and follow the busy 801 Bour- went home and within the next year, I she’s pretty much a homebody. “I just 5 p.m., which benefits numerous charity bon event calendar on Facebook for all decided to move here for good.” That like to relax and take it easy. Maybe go groups such as Sister Season Fund, KW the upcoming Fantasy Fest madness this was in 2005, at 28 years old. My first to the beach. I enjoy staying home with Boys Soccer and the Xena Fund. October. ■

Download our FREE Adopt me Apps for tablets and Smartphones Today! Available on the iTunesTM and Google PlayTM App Stores.X Name: Georgia 394 DAYS AND COUNTING at Florida Keys SPCA Urgent home needed! She’s the epitome of a true rescue story. From life on a chain guarding the home of her owners that left her alone day and night to a sweet, affectionate playful companion. From long walks, to belly rubs and bouts of true silliness. You just have to take the time to get to know her. Please, please don’t pass her by. If you’ve got room and your home and your heart (sorry NO cats) don’t let this girl wait another day. Meet Georgia at our Marathon Campus at 10550 Aviation Blvd behind the airport.

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Visit us online at www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 A17 MUSIC SCENE Bill Blue: The king of Crazy Town BY BUCKY MONTGOMERY aagaing with producer Ian Shaw. Matt Florida Weekly Correspondent Becker, who has played with Steve Earl, Steve Winwood, Joe Cocker and I went into writing about Emmylou Harris and who was Julian a number of Key West musi- Lennon’s band leader for eight years, cians knowing it wasn’t about is returning on guitar. Several other what I put into the story that localloca musicians are returning as well. was going to matter as much as “I’ve never, as long as I’ve lived what all I left out, because their here,h wrote a song about Key West,” lives and careers are extensive. heh said, although that might just Each of them is worth a book, changech with his new release. He not some half page article. says that one of the songs, “King of So, I’m left with introducing CrazyC Town,” although a metaphor, them the best I can to those mightmi just encapsulate this crazy who don’t know them yet about KeyKe West lifestyle. their basics, their history, awards, He said the CD will offer 11 new accolades, upcoming projects andd songs; all originals except one. shows, and their ties to Key West.. “I’m a big fan of Eddie Hinton, And hopefully, a funny story orr a Mussel Shoals guy. Died a long anecdote, if I’m lucky, in the brief-f- time ago. Every CD I ever do from est possible format. now on will have one of his songs Blues master Bill Blue is one of on it.” those people. Bill’s life and musicalal Eddie Hinton was the writer career could be chronicled, pos-s- of Dusty Springfield’s 1969 hit sibly in editions. How cool is thathat song “Breakfast in Bed,” which though, a blues player with thathat was also successfully recorded last name? Written in the stars, it by Shirley Bassey, UB40, Joan would seem. Although Bill’s rep-ep- Osborne and featured in the ertoire and chops go far beyondd a 2014 movie “Godzilla,” although mere blues guitarist, vocalist aandnd Bill insists that that song is songwriter. At 70, he’s still a masterster not indicative of his work. “He showman, grabbing the audiencee by ended up homeless.” the cojones as soon as his rock-ock- Bill performed at the River- ing persona and dominant presenceence hawk Festival north of Tampa hit a stage. He’s toured with Arthurthur this past November, where ‘Big Boy’ Crudup (writer of Elvis’s’ hit another Key West band, the “That’s Alright Mama”) and sharedhared Deerfly, also performed. His group, the stage with ZZ Top, the Allmanlman Bill Blue and Friends, performed for Brothers, Albert King, Johnny Winter the Studios of Key West to benefit and Hank Williams Jr. the Bahama Village Music Program for local kids. If you want to watch him in action, he hosts a blues night every Monday at the Little Room “I came to Key West in 1979 Jazz Club on Duval Street with his to check it out and see what friend and fellow co-conspirator and guitar virtuoso Larry Baeder. the scene was. I was in Bill headlined one of the very pop- ular Sunday Rambles last year, held a touring band at the time. every few months to sell-out crowds at the Key West Theater. Bill was the I knew about Sloppy Joe’s. It was explosion of the volcano that had on what was known at the time been rumbling and shaking the audi- ence throughout the night by all the as a ‘white boy’s chitin’ circuit.’” previousp performers, making it a real night to remember. “The Key West Theater is doing a — Bill Blue great job for locals, and bringing in a lot of great national acts.” Now an elder statesman of the Key We recently sat on the rooftop of West music community, Bill has time the houseboat where he lives on Gar- to oversee and observe the new kids rison Bight one morning (and into the on the scene, both critically and with afternoon), chit-chatting about music in praise. Unlike many other places, “you general, the island, our mutual friends can make a living playing music here. and whatever else came to mind, while One thing people don’t talk about near- his wife, Bev, served up Bloody Marys ly enough is how there are never cover in between sunbathing down on the charges to see bands in Key West. You dock. One of his many stories was can see every player in town every night about being on a boat at Turtle Kraals So, he considered life in the southern- for free.” with Bruce Springsteen the day he met most city. “Everybody wanted to play reflecting back. “The Bill Blue band was Bill contributed one of his songs, Nils Lofgren... but I digress. at Sloppy’s. We got our first gig there an eight-piece band at the time. I told “Sink or Swim” to the Best of Key West “I came to Key West in 1979 to check Fourth of July week, back in 1980, back them they could all come along, but CD, Volume One, available at www. it out and see what the scene was,” he when it was two-week gigs. Our second they didn’t.” CDBaby.com digitally, and at retail out- told me. “I was in a touring band at the gig in Key West was at Sloppy Joe’s dur- And here he has remained, playing lets all over town, along with 17 other time. I knew about Sloppy Joe’s. It was ing the third Fantasy Fest. And then, in his music and watching many others singer/songwriters of all music genres on what was known at the time as a ’83, the Green Parrot opened. We were roll through. Some didn’t make it. Some here in Key West. A dollar from each ‘white boy’s chitin’ circuit.’” the first band to ever play at the Green did. CD sold goes to benefit the Sister Sea- He had been playing places as far Parrot Bar.” “I was sitting with Jimmy Buffett son Fund. If you want some great Key north as New York and Maine, but If you’ve ever wandered up to the in the Full Moon Saloon once (where West music, buy a copy. (The CD is mostly in the south, in the R&B type men’s restroom at the Parrot, the life- Camille’s Restaurant is now, on Simon- produced by Bucky Montgomery, the rooms. size cut-out of the young rock star ton Street) and he said, ‘I’m going to correspondent who wrote this report.) “When we were playing all around affixed to the door is none other than make $1 million this year.’ Wasn’t long Bill prefers to keep his gigs around North Carolina, there were plenty of Bill Blue himself. till that was $1 million a week.” town nowadays, only venturing from the places to play everywhere. Every town. So, after nearly 20 years on the Three years ago, Bill recorded “Mojo- island on occasion to play festivals and Then, the DUI laws killed them all. road, it was around this time Bill lation,” the first new studio album he’d to tour Europe. Once people were too afraid to go out decided to call Key West home. “Key made in 30 years, to great critical review. Do yourself a favor and catch yourself and have drinks, it killed it. They all West after a divorce couldn’t have Rebounding on the success of “Mojola- a bad case of the Bill Blues. It’s just what closed down. They’re gone.” come at a more perfect time,” he said, tion,” he is currently in the studio once the doctor ordered. ■ A18 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST KEY WEST CUISINE Hoss and Mary serve up comfort, love and stoner food for grandma

BY JENNIFER WHITE living together.” Florida Weekly Correspondent “The island saved us” she adds. It is their past, their present and their future. The business of food isn’t always A true love story, Hoss and Mary as glamorous as it seems. A spotlight became inseparable from that day on on Man vs. Food may have given Hoss living life between ambition and adven- and Mary’s — so appropriately named ture. Mary has been working in the after the charming couple they are — a industry since the day she started selling momentum to rise, but of this blood, lemonade and tomatoes, and Hoss has sweat and tears you can’t be a star worked every imag- unless you give a lot of time and even inable position in more heart. To be great in the restaurant hospitality from line industry you have to fight with every- cook to manager to thing you’ve got for everything you waiter. He’s even want. For some, it is not easy to do. For cooked for and served others, it is what life is all about. one place grieving while another one “Bottom line: we on separate occasions It means making a promise to your celebrates their good fortune. To carry love our people. the same president. customers that you will be there every your business with you just as it was and They are our nation. When once you might working day to take the orders and make just as it has always has been, to be the We get a lot of love have found them fol- the food so that they are being served place that you can always go home to no up and down the East lowing a hot dog tour nothing else but pure comfort and love. matter where you are. Coast because of the across the country That no one, not even your significant Even if it means one day leaving food Hoss cooks, but in a 19-foot van, you other, can know the recipe to your grand- behind the customers who have some- we wouldn’t be here can now find them mother’s coffee cake that so many people how become your family. without them.” working side by side unsuccessfully ask for. You cannot, after “We had people drive from all over Although the duo in their custom-built all, risk the inheritance that has so trust- the place to see us on our last day tried their best to stay sanctuary at the edge ingly been passed on to you. Or the hap- in Maine. From Massachusetts, from in Maine, an unin- of a tiny salt pond on piness it gives you to prepare a specialty Vermont, from New Hampshire,” Mary spired winter and the end of 5th Street dish that no one can get anywhere else. says, her eyes shining with the memory frigid real estate eventually led the for- on Stock Island. It sits bright red and It means you run an underground “a family we watched grow from one mer locals back to where they met and shiny next to the Sunset Watersports kitchen for several hundred devoted fol- child to four came all the way down fell in love. They are now happy to call boat rental, thanks to Rich Welter, who lowers because you cannot go one day from Montreal, Canada, and made us a Key West home once again after several they say is just a part of Hoss and Mary’s without cooking something for some- going away present that we still keep years up North and have no plans of ever as they are. From the moment they met, body. That you treat your restaurant, with us in the truck. moving back. the vision between the three was mutual or in this case food truck, like it is your The picture on the front page of the “In 1998, I was working at A&B Lob- and he is the most important person in very own child. You just can’t see a life paper on our final day shows Hoss hugging ster House and Hoss came in to apply helping them get to where they are now. without it. Even if that means taking the only employee we have ever had. At for a job” Mary says of the first time they Hoss and Mary cook for the commu- the dream with you from Old Orchard first, he was a loyal customer and now we met, “and I just thought he was a hunk nity and are already making an impact Beach, Maine to Key West, to leave are in touch with him every single day still. and all that and we immediately started on the neighborhood around them. Peo- FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 A19 KEY WEST CUISINE

ple stop by throughout the day exchang- with cream cheese and crispy wontons ing familiar greetings and jokes to go for them instead.” along with the constant phone calls for The menu might not be out of a regular orders. five-star restaurant, but it is not about There are the burgers, of course, piled reading what’s on a piece of paper that high with toppings like grilled hot dogs gives this place its reputation. You have or chicken fingers, and all the fixings you to go there to know that it’s what is on can think of from “all the way” to buffalo the inside that counts. There behind the sauce, bacon and nacho cheese or jala- high window of a food truck is a hus- peños and salsa. Then you have the hot band and wife team giving it their all dogs that “taste like candy” with home- by doing the only thing they know how. made slaw or American cheese. There’s “We are the old school Mom and Pop Quebecois style poutine and Philly-style for the new school” Mary says, “it’s basi- cheesesteaks, a pilgrim burrito stuffed cally stoner food for your grandmother.” with fresh roasted turkey breast, stuff- Hoss and Mary’s is open every day ing, cranberry, cheddar cheese, onion except for Wednesdays from 11am until and sriracha mayo and an ever-changing 6pm and is currently cash only. Or if selection of hybrid cheesecakes like the you happen to see them at after hours coconut and chocolate brownie cheese- somewhere, go ahead and buy them a cake or the caramel apple cheesecake Mai Tai. Chances are, they have worked with coffee cake crust. They’re even all day and deserve it. ■ happy to make you something that is not on the menu. Hoss & Mary’s Grub Shack “Someone wanted us to make crab 305-363-2811 rangoons the other day. Well, we don’t 5th Avenue, Stock Island do crab rangoons, so we made a burger www.facebook.com/hossandmarys

Voted Top 3 Best Ethnicin Key FoodWest

“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.”

SUMMER HOURS M-F 11am-12am for Lunch & Dinner Menu Sat-Sun 10am-12am for Brunch & Dinner Menu Bring Your Own Beer or Wine £ä£™Ê7 ˆÌiÊ-ÌÀiiÌÊUÊiÞÊ7iÃÌÊUÊÎäx°™ÓÓ°Ó£ÇÇ ÜÜÜ°>“>ˆ`> ŽiÞÜiÃÌ°Vœ“ A20 WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST KEY WEST HAPPY HOUR GUIDE

Your guide to where the locals go for Hogfish Bar and Grill Rumor Lounge Virgilios happy hour drink and food specials. 6810 Front St. 430 Greene St. 524 Duval St. behind La Trattoria 4-6 p.m. 5-8 p.m. Martini Mondays Alonzo’s Drink specials and special happy hour $2 domestic drafts, $3 well cocktails 7 p.m.-close 700 Front St. menu and $4 select wine at Rumor Lounge $5 martinis 4-6:30 p.m. www.Hogfishbar.com www.Rumorloungekw.com www.Latrattoria.com Half-price appetizers www.alonzoysterbar.com Island Dogs Bar Sand Bar Sports Grill Viva Saloon 505 Front St. 511 Greene St. 903 Duval St. Bagatelle 4-6:30 p.m. Monday through Friday Check the website for daily specials 4-6 p.m. 115 Duval St. Half-price well drinks, bottled beer Sandbarkeywest.com $3 well drinks, $1 off all beer and 4-6 p.m. and wine by the glass www.Sand Bar Sports Grill Key West house wine, $5 appetizers Half-price drinks Half-price oysters, special $5.95 menu on Facebook www.Vivakeywest.com $5 appetizers www.Islanddogsbar.com www.Bagatellekeywest.com Santiago’s Bodega Kelly’s Caribbean Bar and Grill 207 Petronia St. Willie T’s Restaurant and Bar Blackfin 301 Whitehead St. 3-6 p.m. 525 Duval St. 918 Duval St. 4-7 p.m. Half-price drinks 4-7 p.m. 4:30-6:30 p.m. Drink specials $5 tapas Daily drink specials $7 menu Appetizer and small bites specials www.Santiagosbodega.com www.Williets.com www.Kellyskeywest.com Blue Macaw Island Eats and Bar Southernmost Beach Café Wine-O at La Concha Hotel 804 Whitehead St. Lazy Gecko 1405 Duval St. 430 Duval St. Every day with live music 203 Duval St. Sunday through Thursday Daily 4-7 p.m. 4-8 p.m. $5 small bites bar men, $5 draft beer, Buy one, get one free on selected $3 well drinks, domestic beers and 2-for-1 well drinks and beer house wine, well drinks and house glasses of wine house wines www.Thelazygecko.com margaritas www.Laconchakeywest.com www.Bluemacawkeywest.com www.Southernmostbeachcafe.com Little Room Jazz Club 2 Cents Boathouse Bar and Grill 821 Duval St. Square Grouper Bar and Grill and 416 Applerouth Lane 400 Greene St., #408 3-8 p.m. My New Joint Upstairs. Bacon Happy Hour 4-6 p.m. 4-6 p.m. $4 Craft Your Own Aperitif Cocktail, 22658 Overseas Highway, Cudjoe Key Free bacon Half-price well drinks and beers 2 for $8 wines, 2 for $5 beers. Square Grouper Roll the dice at the bar for reduced www.Boathousebarandgrill.com www.Littleroomjazzclub.com 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Tuesday through price drinks Saturday www.2centskw.com ■ Bobby’s Monkey Bar Lucy’s Retired Surfer Bar and Lunch Specials and $7 well drinks Noon-8 p.m. Restaurant My New Joint $3 well drinks 320 Grinnell St. 4:20-6:30 p.m. $2.50 domestic beers 4-7 p.m. 25 percent off bottled and canned $3 imports Half off appetizers, $3 well drinks, beers $2 Pringles and $2 Slim Jims draft beer and house wine $1 off draft beer and wine by www.Keywest.lucysretiredsurfers.com the glass Conch Republic Seafood $6 cocktail specials daily 631 Greene St. Martin’s Happy hour menu and late-night 4-7 p.m. 917 Duval menu 2-for-1 drink specials 4-6 p.m. Check the websites for details www.Conchrepublicseafood.com Half-price drinks and tapas www.Squaregroupbarandgrill.com www.Martinskeywest.com www.Mynewjoint420lounge.com Dante’s 951 Caroline St. Mary Ellens’s Bar Sunset Tiki Bar at the Monday through Friday 420 Appelrouth Lane Galleon Resort 4-8 p.m. 3-6 p.m. 617 Front St. Half off domestic beers and well 2-4-1 wells and drafts, $5 Jameson, $5 10 a.m.-noon (except Sundays) drinks Titos 2-for-1 Bloody Marys $3.50 Jagermeister and Fireball www.maryellensbar.com 4-7 p.m. daily $4 Jameson 2-for-1 Margaritas or well drinks www.Danteskeywest.com Pepe’s www.Galleonresort.com 806 Caroline St. Geiger Key Marina 4-6 p.m. Tattoos and Scars 5 Geiger Road Half-price raw and baked oysters 512 Greene St. 4-6 p.m. $5 fresh-squeezed Margaritas Stella on draft $4 all day Drink specials and special happy hour Discounted well drinks, beer and www.Tattoosandscarssaloon.com menu wine www.Geigerkeymarina.com www.Pepeskeywest.com Turtle Kraals 231 Margaret St. Green Parrot Bar Pinchers Crab Shack 4:30-6:30 p.m. 601 Whitehead St. 712 Duval St. Half off bottled beers, well drinks 4-7 p.m. Monday through Thursday 3-6 p.m. and house wines 4-5:30 p.m. Fridays Oysters, clams, shrimp, wings 75 Special happy hour menu Discounts on selected drinks and cents each www.Turtlekraals.com beers www.Pinchersusa.com www.Greenparrot.com Two Friends Patio Restaurant The Porch 512 Front St. The Grand 429 Caroline St. 4-6 p.m. 314 Duval St. 4:30-6:30 p.m. Early bird dinner specials 5-7:30 p.m. $2 off draft beer and wine by the glass www.Twofriendskw.com Half price wine, cocktails and beer www.Theporchkw.com Half price appetizers Vinos on Duval Roostica Pizzeria 810 Duval St. Half Shell Raw Bar 5620 MacDonald Ave. 4-7 p.m. 231 Margaret St. 4-6 p.m. $5 Sangria 4:30-6:30 p.m. Drink specials and special happy hour Sundays 2-for-1 drink specials menu $5 mimosas Special happy hour food menu www.Roostica.com www.Vinosonduval.com www.Halfshellrawbar.com KEY WEST FLORIDA WEEKLY REAL ESTATE

WEEK OF AUGUST 3-9, 2017 WWW.FLORIDAWEEKLY.COM | A21

New in Casa Marina 1404 Whalton St. A newly constructed home is now space, pool and parking. The first floor Up the staircase you’ll find two spa- Offered at $1,850,000 available in the coveted Casa Marina features French doors that open to the cious bedroom suites. Impact glass, District. This custom-built home fea- outdoor entertainment area with deck- wood, tile and stone floors, quartz coun- — Available through Doug Mayberry tures three bedrooms and 3 ½ baths and ing and pool. A first-floor master suite tertops, high-end appliances and an on- Real Estate, 1075 Duval St., Suite C23, was meticulously designed by architect offers garden views through French demand hot water system are just a few Key West, in Duval Square at the corner Tom Pope. It is designed as an open- doors leading outdoors. The laundry of the details that set this home apart. of Simonton and Virginia streets. Office: concept living space, with a first-floor room and powder bath finish off the Customize this home with the devel- 305-292-6155, fax: 305-292-6156; Doug- master bedroom suite, outdoor living first floor. oper to create your true dream home. ■ Mayberry.com.

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Old Town condominium 713 Emma St., Unit 4 — $699,000 Built in 2005, this stylish three-bed- tumbled-brick patio and lush gardens. room, 2½-bath condominium is situated in Modern luxuries include GE smart wir- a secured and private courtyard setting. It ing, Hardiboard siding, deeded off-street features fine craftsmanship and materials parking and storm shutters. Walk to Duval throughout, including Brazilian hardwood Street, restaurants and shops. There are floors and vaulted ceilings. The open only four units in the development. ■ floor plan includes a custom kitchen with granite countertops, a Viking gas stove, Contact: Doug Mayberry Real Estate and a Sub-Zero refrigerator. The designer 1075 Duval Street, Suite C23 pool with waterfall is surrounded by a 305-292-6155 • DougMayberry.com

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