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Keys TravelerThe Magazine

Keys Sanctuary 25 Years of Marine Preservation National Parks Turn 100 Offbeat Keys Names Keys Sunsets

fla-keys.com Decompresssing at Bahia Honda State Park near Big Pine Key in the Lower . ANDY NEWMAN MARIA NEWMAN Keys Traveler 12 The Magazine

Editor Andy Newman Managing Editor 8 4 Carol Shaughnessy ROB O’NEAL ROB Copy Editor Buck Banks Writers Julie Botteri We do! Briana Ciraulo Chloe Lykes TIM GROLLIMUND “Keys Traveler” is published by the Monroe Tourist Development Contents Council, the official visitor marketing agency for the Florida Keys & . 4 Sanctuary Protects Keys Marine Resources Director 8 Outdoor Art Enriches the Florida Keys Harold Wheeler 9 Epic Keys: Kiteboarding and Wakeboarding Director of Sales Stacey Mitchell 10 That Florida Keys Sunset! Florida Keys & Key West 12 Keys National Parks Join Centennial Celebration Visitor Information www.fla-keys.com 14 is a Must-Do Angling Experience www.fla-keys.co.uk 16 Race Over Water During Bridge Run www.fla-keys.de www.fla-keys.it 17 What’s in a Name? In Marathon, Plenty! www.fla-keys.ie 18 Visit Indian and Lignumvitae Keys Splash or Relax at Keys Beaches www.fla-keys.fr New Arts District Enlivens Key West ach of the Florida Keys’ regions, from Key Largo Bahia Honda State Park, located in the Lower Keys www.fla-keys.nl www.fla-keys.be Stroll Back in Time at to Key West, features sandy beaches for relaxing, between MMs 36 and 37. The beaches of Bahia Honda Toll-Free in the U.S. and Canada 19 Walk on a ‘Rainbow’ in Key West Esunning and swimming in warm turquoise waters. repeatedly have been named among the top 10 in the 1-800-FLA-KEYS Key Largo is home to John Pennekamp by numerous travel surveys. For the free monthly 20 Traveling Tips to the Florida Keys State Park, with its main entrance at mile marker (MM) Bahia Honda was voted the USA’s best beach in “Keys Traveler” 102.6. Known worldwide as America’s first underwater 1992 by Dr. Beach himself, Dr. Stephen P. Leatherman, electronic newsletter, preserve, the park also boasts upland areas including a professor at Florida International University who has subscribe at 10 the popular Beach and Far Beach. Guests can been rating America’s beaches since 1989. www.fla-keys.com/keystraveler rent kayaks, paddleboards and gear to explore Leatherman lauded the park for its facilities including ©2015-’16 Monroe County Tourist the park’s waters. boat slips, cabins and amenities for camping in tents Development Council Islamorada’s Anne’s Beach, located at MM 80, or RVs. The on-site concession offers a complete gift Printed in the U.S.A. attracts waders and kiteboarders cruising along the shop, snack bar, kayak rentals and daily By Original Impressions facebook.com/floridakeysandkeywest shallows off Islamorada. Great views and scenic tours to nearby Looe Key. walkways please passersby and visiting families, and Several Bahia Honda beaches, including one with the shallow water typically means no breaking waves. a view of the uniquely historic Florida Keys Over-Sea Sombrero Beach, located at MM 50 oceanside in Railroad trestle bridge, round out offerings. @thefloridakeys Marathon, is a well-maintained Middle Keys gem. The In Key West, guests can enjoy the temperate waters free-access public park and beach features a kayak of Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park, swimming launch, volleyball courts, children’s playground, shady and snorkeling among colorful tropical fish, and .com/FloridaKeysTV

picnic pavilions equipped with cooking grills, freshwater exploring a National Historic Landmark. The 54-acre Insta showers, restroom facilities and handicap access. park features picnic tables and grills, nature trails, ROB O’NEAL Marathon also features a 1,200-foot beach at Curry fishing areas and the opportunity to tour the iconic keysvoices.com @thefloridakeys State Park. Civil War–era fort. The Keys’ best-known beach area can be found at — Chloe Lykes Cover photo of in National Park by Rob O’Neal CARLOS ESTAPE ANDY NEWMAN By Cammy Clark

Golden grunts gather on a reef in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key Largo.

Sanctuary Protects Keys Marine Resources Snipes Keys in the Lower Keys are part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. he Florida Keys National anywhere else in the or Marine Sanctuary is ,” said Sean Morton, It all began in 1989 when three Tcelebrating its 25th year of the sanctuary’s superintendent. “We large freighters ran aground just 17 protecting the 2,900 nautical miles will continue to try to make this days apart on the . of waters that surround the island 2YEARS5 special place even better to sustain The groundings came only chain. “If you come to the Florida a healthy marine ecosystem for our months after the devastating Exxon It’s a big job to preserve a marine Keys you can see more fish and children and our children’s children Valdez oil spill in Alaska and just world that features a spectacular diversity of fish that is tough to find to enjoy.” days following hearings held in Key and unique ecosystem with shallow West about oil drilling in the Gulf of seagrass beds, -fringed Mexico. islands and the world’s third-largest “It was the perfect storm,” said barrier coral reef that collectively leading underwater photographer support more than 6,000 species, of Key Largo. as well as being the final resting There had been talk at the time of spot of culturally important slightly expanding the boundaries of — some that date back already existing protected waters centuries. in the Keys, but the alarming It’s a mission that can be groundings led federal lawmakers challenging because the same immediately to begin pushing a turquoise and blue waters also are bill through the U.S. Congress a vital cog in the Keys’ economic that would protect all waters engine. surrounding the islands. The island chain’s residents and “The nation recognizes that the visitors use the subtropical waters coral reef in the Keys is one of the year-round for recreational and natural wonders of the world,” then- commercial activities: boating, Sen. Bob Graham of Florida, a co- diving, snorkeling, swimming, author, said at the time. deep-sea and backcountry fishing, President George H.W. Bush dolphin-watching, paddleboarding, made it official, signing the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary and kiteboarding, kayaking and just ANDY NEWMAN STEPHEN FRINK relaxing. Protection Act on Nov. 16, 1990. KatieThe newBajrak lobby shows at off the a beautifulAmara yellowtail Resort. snapper destined for the dinner table. A diver explores the Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg seven miles south of Key West.

4 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 5 ROB O’NEAL Justin Rea casts his fly rod while catch-and-release fishing in the sanctuary. ROB O’NEAL don’t have to drop anchors that might damage . The sanctuary encompasses the Florida Keys Wreck Trek that features nine shipwrecks, including the USNS Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg off Key West and USS Spiegel Grove off Key Largo. They are the second- and third-largest vessels in the world to be intentionally sunk as artificial reefs. Keys waters also are an internationally renowned fishing destination — for deep-sea angling in the , backcountry fishing in Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico and even bridge fishing off the old railroad bridges that parallel the Florida Keys . More saltwater world fishing records have been established in the Keys than any other angling Observing wild dolphins is a popular visitor activity in the Florida Keys sanctuary. destination on the globe, according Administered by the National water and great visibility mean to the International Game Fish Oceanic and Atmospheric underwater explorers can see the Association. Administration, the new sanctuary’s vibrant colors of sea fans, corals The sanctuary has put in place boundaries stretched from Biscayne and a wide array of tropical fish. no-take zones, covering a small National Park near to the Sea turtles, moray eels and rays percentage of the waters, which are Dry Tortugas (70 miles west of also are regulars at reefs. designed to allow important species Key West) and absorbed the Fort The sanctuary has implemented of fish an opportunity to spawn Jefferson National Monument and the Blue Star program with and grow to help improve size and the existing Looe Key and Key commercial operators to promote populations. Largo marine sanctuaries. responsible diving and snorkeling With support from the Keys “The most important thing the at the reef, with emphasis on not tourism council, the sanctuary sanctuary did was instigate a touching or removing corals. The built the Florida Keys Eco- mindset of conservation,” Frink number of mooring buoys has more Discovery Center in Key West to said. than doubled to 470 so that boats enable visitors to learn about the The Keys’ waters make the ROB O’NEAL island chain an extremely popular destination for visitors, with world- class diving and snorkeling at the reef and on shipwrecks. The warm

ecosystem without getting wet. life topics. “We have done our best to put in Kayaking and paddleboarding, Pioneering work on coral management tools to protect the also popular in Keys waters, are restoration has been accomplished environment,” Morton said. “But great ways to see the beauty of by the Florida Keys–based it’s a changing world and we have TIM GROLLIMUND the sanctuary’s seagrass beds full Coral Restoration Foundation to be adaptive to make sure it is of juvenile marine life or observe and Mote Marine Tropical protected for the future.” birds and other wildlife on pristine Research Laboratory. Projects have Islamorada-based freelance writer islands. been a resounding success, with Cammy Clark is a former staff journalist The sanctuary works with other a number of transplanted infant with several major daily newspapers government agencies, universities corals maturing and spawning to and enjoys in the Florida and private entities on research create new corals on their own. The Keys National Marine Sanctuary. Divers work the Coral Restoration projects to get better science about research already is being extended Foundation’s nursery in the sanctuary. The clear waters of the Florida Keys are a perfect place to just relax. fish populations and other marine to other reefs around the world. floridakeys.noaa.gov

6 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 7 ANDYBOB CARE NEWMAN ROB O’NEAL OTHERSIDEBOARDSPORTS.COM hrill seekers who want 365 days’ worth of sun, surf and Tsea can get their blood pump- ing in the Florida Keys. Throughout the islands, people are immersing themselves in the kiteboarding lifestyle, an exhilarat- ing alternative to surfing in the safe environment of the Keys. Riders catch air and go fast, feel- ing the wind power kites for miles at heart-stopping speeds. Warm, knee- deep water is ideal for launching and riding, heading out to deeper channels for jumps and steady, ride- able wind that carries kites from all The Purple Isles Art Guild collaborated with local high school students to create this mural of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. directions over mostly calm waters. Newcomers or students can take lessons to absorb skills and moves, Outdoor Art Enriches the Florida Keys safety procedures and a philosophy rtistry in the Florida Keys can be seen in palm- At MM 95 stands an outdoor mural commemorat- of living in the moment and becom- fringed shorescapes that edge the island chain, ing the 1912 completion of ’s Florida ing one with the environment. Aabstract clouds unrolling across azure skies and Keys Over-Sea Railroad, whose bridges later formed Kiteboarding requires a waist har- the sculptural arches of old Overseas Highway bridges the base for the Overseas Highway. The dramatic ness, a kite attached by four lines, a silhouetted against a watery backdrop. 60-foot-long artwork depicts a train steaming across steering bar and a board. Equally enticing are open-air pieces crafted by Keys an arched bridge. In the clear shallow waters of the artists. From vibrant ocean murals to whimsical large- In Islamorada, at MM 83, the exterior of the Florida Keys backcountry, students learn to scale sculptures, outdoor artistry inspires interest and Keys History of Diving has a 360-foot under- inflate and fly the kite, steer the bar smiles throughout the island chain. sea mural painted by David Dunleavy and Guy Harvey. and attempt jumps, spins and other Many such pieces can be seen along the Overseas And then there’s Betsy, a 30-foot-tall, 40-foot-long maneuvers on the board. Highway that traverses the length of the Keys, stretch- sculpted Florida Keys spiny lobster that greets visitors Instruction is one on one, address- ing above and alongside the waters of the Atlantic to Islamorada’s Rain Barrel Artisan Village at MM 87 ing safety, theory, equipment, setup Ocean, Florida Bay and Gulf of Mexico. bayside. The much-photographed icon was crafted in and preflight, yet designed to get For example, visitors arriving at Key Largo might spot the 1980s by area resident Richard Blaze. students ripping quickly. a 7,500-square-foot marine life mural at mile marker From Key Largo to , the exterior walls Training ranges from one- to (MM) 99.2. Portraying inhabitants of the living coral reef of fire stations have provided backdrops for work by five-day beginner, intermediate and that parallels the Keys, it was painted in 2007 by well- creative spirits. The airports at Key West and Marathon advanced lessons, the latter geared known artist and Upper Keys resident Wyland — who feature a distinctive collection of pieces by talented primarily for kiteboarders who want also created supersized murals near MM 50 in Mara- Keys artists, including Rick Worth’s panoramic mural of to hone their skills for riding and thon and in Key West’s Historic Seaport. Key West rooftops painted on a terminal building. staying upwind consistently.

BOB CARE ROB O’NEAL Particularly in Key West, Adrenaline enthusiasts, sport pros artistry can be found in numer- and curious newcomers can safely ous unexpected locations, participate in wakeboarding, wake- from botanical gardens to skating and kiteboarding at Keys pocket parks. Unique creations Cable and Adventure Park, located include a flirty life-sized figure at mile marker 59.3 in Marathon. of Marilyn Monroe outside Partner to Islamorada’s Otherside Tropic Cinema, crafted by Boardsports, the facility is America’s noted American sculptor and first watersports cable park to offer part-time Key West resident full kiteboarding and wakeboarding Seward Johnson, and Debra Epic Keys: instruction. Yates’ color-block tile mosaic An overhead towing device Left: Betsy the Florida along a portion of the seawall Kiteboarding and Wakeboarding operated atop a seven-acre lake is Keys lobster at the Rain Barrel Artisan Village in at Smathers Beach. used to pull riders across the water. Islamorada. Above: A This system creates a customized sculpture of actress Mari- — Carol Shaughnessy lyn Monroe outside Key ride, as only one rider is allowed on West’s Tropic Cinema. keysarts.com the cable at a time. — Julie Botteri 8 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 9 The last wisps of daylight over Florida Bay in Islamorada.

That Florida Keys Sunset!

By Carol Shaughnessy • Photo by Andy Newman

n most locales, the nightly sunset takes place without sands of weddings and earned national travel kudos. they add more ice crystals the sun reflects off of,” he street performers and local artisans. People of all ages much fanfare. But in the Florida Keys, it’s always an Why are sunsets so memorable in the Florida Keys? advised. “You see pink and orange upwards off the sun flock to Mallory Square, a historic pier overlooking Ioccasion for a celebration. According to Bill Cottrill, a specialist at the Key West and ice, and the clouds become colorful. But it’s really Key West Harbor and the Gulf of Mexico, to enjoy the Throughout the island chain, people gather to mark office, the right clouds play a the sun reflecting or refracting off of the cloud itself.” carnival-like atmosphere. the moment the sun slips below the horizon — perhaps major role in making a sunset great. As for the “green flash” that Florida Keys legend says The Mallory Square performers offer a spectacle as toasting it with cocktails, saluting it during a sunset “Scattered cumulous clouds toward the horizon can sometimes can be glimpsed at the moment the sun vivid as the sunset itself. Visitors might encounter ac- cruise on a tall ship or catamaran, or appreciating it make a very dramatic sunset,” Cottrill explained. “As disappears, Cottrill said it’s caused by the refraction of robats, musicians, dogs and cats doing tricks, jugglers during a stroll on the Old . the sun sets, you have it going low enough in the sky light near the horizon on a clear, cloudless day. It’s so and masters of comic patter — all sharing their talents Admittedly, sunset in the Keys is worth the attention to where we get crepuscular rays — the shadows rare that he has never seen it. with the crowds. And no one can overlook iconic tight- it receives, painting the sky with a palette of cream- caused by the clouds where they break the sun. While the green flash may be elusive, a unique rope walker Will Soto, who can be seen balanced high sicle orange, purple, red and dusty pink. It has inspired “If you add high cirrus clouds, you get more drama element that accompanies sunset each evening in above his audience, silhouetted against the orange and countless social media photos, backdropped thou- because cirrus clouds are made primarily of ice, and Key West is a waterfront Sunset Celebration featuring crimson splendor of the setting sun.

10 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 11 ROB O’NEAL the fort was a supply station for the acres. Featuring BOB CARE U.S. Navy. many rare and Outdoor enthusiasts can “unplug” endangered spe- at the remote park with ranger- cies, it is the largest guided tours, pristine beaches for subtropical wilder- sunning, excellent bird watching ness in the United and clear blue waters for snorkel- States. ing. Garden Key, one of the most Minnesotan desert-like of the islands, is popular Marjory Stoneman for overnight tent camping. Douglas, author of The Yankee Freedom ferry is the “The : only commercial vessel authorized River of Grass,” be- Alligators rest on a mound in . to carry passengers to the park. came synonymous A high-speed 110-foot catamaran, with the park through her fierce Highly skilled Keys light-tackle the ferry features an air-conditioned efforts to protect the marshlands fishing guides and eco-tour out- wheelchair-accessible main deck. from agriculture and real estate fitters are ready to accompany Breakfast, lunch, a fort tour and development. visitors to introduce them to the snorkel gear are provided. The Everglades National Park abuts wildlife and wilderness. ferry departs from the Key West the near-shore waters of Key Largo Extended kayak and canoe trips Ferry Terminal. and Islamorada. Those waters are are available for those who enjoy Keys National Parks Key West Seaplane Adventures of- an ecologically fascinating place camping and paddling excursions. fers morning, afternoon and full-day where fresh water from the Ever- Visitors might also consider taking excursions aboard 10-passenger glades mixes with the saltwater a day trip by car to the Flamingo Join Centennial seaplanes. Flights depart from Key of Florida Bay, making the area a outpost, the southernmost point West Seaplane Adventures’ head- popular spot for sport fishing. in mainland Florida. The route is Dry Tortugas National Park covers quarters at Key West International An array of wildlife is commonly punctuated by walking trails and Celebration 100 square miles in the Gulf of Mexico. Airport. Travel time between Key sighted including roseate spoon- observation decks that offer stun- West and the Dry Tortugas is ap- bills, American eagles, bottlenose ning views of the park. he United States’ National Dry Tortugas National Park, the tures in the Western Hemisphere, proximately 40 minutes each way. dolphin, crocodiles, sea turtles, — Julie Botteri Park Service, often called most remote park in America, is sit- whose construction began in 1846. Half-day trips include at least 2.5 alligators and manatees, to name a T“America’s best idea,” uated approximately 70 miles west During the Civil War, Fort Jefferson hours to enjoy the park, while full- few. Park sport fishing, with a focus nps.gov/drto celebrates its 100th birthday in of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico. A — sometimes called the day trips include at least 6.5 hours. on catch and release, is world nps.gov/ever 2016. cluster of seven tiny coral-and-sand of the Gulf — served as a Union Everglades National Park, estab- renowned for snook, trout, tarpon drytortugas.com Florida Keys visitors can learn, islands covering 100 square miles, prison for captured desert- lished in 1947, spans 1.5 million and a host of other species. keywestseaplanecharters.com discover and be inspired by two Dry Tortugas is accessible only by ers and others. Its most famous national parks that are accessible seaplane or boat. prisoner was Dr. , con- BOB CARE from the island chain. The park’s centerpiece is Fort victed of conspiracy in President Jefferson, one ’s 1865 assassina- ANDY NEWMAN of the largest tion, but later pardoned. masonry struc- During the Spanish-American War,

MARIA NEWMAN

Migratory albino pelicans take flight in the Florida Bay boundaries of A sergeant major fish swims adjacent to the wall of An egret stands sentinel in the grass off Everglades National Park. Fort Jefferson in Dry Tortugas National Park. the Anhinga Trail in the Everglades.

12 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 13 BOB KRIST RON MODRA RON MODRA A guide points out a tailing fish to his angler in Florida Bay.

By Sue Cocking

A youngster displays a nice spotted sea trout. An angler makes a cast to a passing fish.

anglers with their subtle strike. But Guides always release permit, tar- PAT FORD once hooked, the snook’s lightning pon and sharks, which are consid- runs and erratic jumps quickly ered sport fish. All goliath grouper erase feelings of frustration at the must be released because it is a ones you missed. protected species. To add to the species count, the But a cobia that measures at guide might select a winding chan- least 33 inches to the fork of its tail nel surrounded by meadows of sea will provide multiple delicious dinner grass and sandy holes where you entrées, and many Keys restaurants could easily catch spotted sea trout will cook your catch. in the double digits using popping Even beyond the world-class Florida Bay is a Must-Do Angling Experience corks and live shrimp. fishing that Florida Bay offers is lorida Bay off Key Largo and experience levels. in a single day — while experienc- If winds and seas are calm the breathtaking scenery featuring Islamorada in the Florida Keys The scenic, shallow waters of this ing the incredible beauty of the enough, the captain may venture incredible fauna and flora. is probably best known for its mangrove-lined estuary lie between southern portion of Everglades out to the open gulf where rock It’s the kind of trip that creates F piles and shipwrecks often hold lifetime memories. glamour species such as tarpon, the Keys island chain and the Gulf National Park. bonefish and permit. of Mexico. “It gives the possibility of almost large permit, cobia, tarpon, goliath Sue Cocking is a former outdoors But it also offers a relaxing, The bay offers your best shot at everything,” said light-tackle charter grouper and various shark species. writer with the . When she is not giving love to her cat, she loves multispecies, family-fun fishing trip, catching everything from tripletail to captain Rick Stanczyk, whose family Heavier tackle and larger live baits, such as pinfish or grunts, are the fishing in Florida Bay. that is a “must do” for anglers of all tarpon and snapper to snook — all owns Bud N’ Mary’s Fishing Marina A tarpon leaps at the fla-keys.com/fishing in Islamorada. ticket for reeling up the big ones. end of an angler’s line. SUE COCKING It is easy for Stanczyk and other RON MODRA Keys backcountry guides to escort visitors in their 18- to 22-foot shal- low-draft boats to as many as 15 species in a single day. To increase the odds, they typically go armed with a variety of dead and live bait, along with an assortment of lures such as jigs, spoons and flies. The trip often begins with casting live shrimp on jig heads to man- grove shorelines to catch mangrove snapper, ladyfish, jacks, sheeps- head, redfish, black drum, pompano and snook. Sans a fish or two kept for dinner, most fish are released to fight again another day. The wildlife can be equally Snook are the most wily, only as spectacular as the biting when they are hungry and fishing in Florida Bay and Everglades National Park. A happy angler shows off a beautiful snook prior to releasing it. sometimes confounding unwary

14 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 15 ANDY NEWMAN When and where to fish for popular Florida Keys game fish What’s in a Name?

Race Over Water During Key Largo Bridge Run , in the Marathon area, was once the base camp for workers who built Henry Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. In Marathon, Plenty! arathon may lie more or less lies the 5.3-acre island of Pigeon says the island, called Kraal Key on at the midpoint of the road Key. Its name, appearing in an at least one antique survey map, Mleading through the Florida 1849 account, may have been contained buried treasure. Keys, but when it comes to won- inspired by flocks of white-crowned The history of some Middle Keys derfully offbeat place names, it’s pigeons that roosted there. place names is intriguingly vague. anything but middle of the road. Stirrup Key, surprisingly, wasn’t Much of the of Marathon Recognized as a prime Florida named for the foot supports that lies on , whose name can Keys boating and family destina- are part of a cowboy’s saddle. Ac- be traced back to the 1670s and tion, the Marathon and Middle cording to documentation, in 1763 perhaps earlier. Experts are unsure

The Key Largo Bridge Run Keys area is made up of a group a Bahamian sea captain called Stir- whether it derived from “vacas,” the draws hundreds of participants of small islands colorfully named rup visited the Florida Keys — and Spanish word for cattle, in recogni- from the U.S. and other Boot, Knights, Hog, Vaca, Stirrup, left a lasting mark. tion of cows that may have roamed countries. Crawl and Little Crawl keys — plus quite possibly got its the area; “Vaccas,” supposedly the ANDY NEWMAN Pigeon Key beneath the Old Seven name from the pens or surname of a friend of the land’s Mile Bridge, East and West Sister’s “kraals” found there. Another story early Spanish owner; wandering

ach November, participants in the Key Largo Enthusiasts of all ages can test their stamina and Island, , Fat Deer and Grassy JULIE BOTTERI manatees (also called sea cows) or Bridge Run compete in a spectacular athletic speed in the uniquely scenic out-and-back 10k, half keys. even long-ago exploration chronicler Echallenge offering panoramic views of the Upper marathon and 5k run/walk events that begin shortly Marathon itself got its name from Alavar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca. Keys and eastern edges of the Florida Everglades. after sunrise. workers constructing the monumen- And according to some sources, Runners along the USA Track & Field–certified course Since its inception, the bridge race has attracted par- tal Over-Sea Railroad from mainland ’s name came from Dutch cross the 65-foot-high, 1.25-mile-long Jewfish Creek ticipants from across the U.S., , Puerto Florida throughout the Keys in the Key, the English translation of its Bridge and occupy the northbound lanes of the bridge Rico, Canada and Europe. early 1900s. Laboring night and early Spanish moniker of Cayo de and the southern portion of the 18-Mile Stretch, a sec- “The Keys are a great destination to race in, and the day to meet the grueling construc- Holandes. Others, however, say it tion of the Florida Keys Overseas Highway that con- bridges provide something absolutely different than a tion schedule, workers reputedly was so dubbed because the small nects mainland with Key Largo. purely flat race,” said Florida resident Jon Williams, one complained, “This is getting to be a island resembles a duck when seen The bridge is one of the highway’s 42 spans over the of the race’s avid competitors. real marathon!” from the air. Duck Key’s name either derived from Dutch — Carol Shaughnessy waters of the Atlantic Ocean, Florida Bay and the Gulf — Julie Botteri Beneath the Old Seven Mile Key or because, when viewed from the air, of Mexico. keylargobridgerun.com Bridge, the railroad’s centerpiece, the island’s shape looks like a duck.Charterboat skippersfla-keys.com/marathon search for live bait off the Upper Keys.

16 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 17 ANDY NEWMAN New Arts District

Enlivens Key West O’NEAL ROB trio of arts emporiums has turned Key West’s Eaton and ADuval street area into an eclec- tic creative enclave, complementing several other Old Town arts districts. A 14,000-square-foot art deco building at 533 Eaton St. is the new home of The Studios of Key West. The island’s popular not-for-profit cultural organization promotes arts and culture through intriguing classes in varying disciplines, performances and concerts in a 200-seat profes- Indian Key once had the largest population between St. Augustine and Key West. sional theater, lectures, special events and showings of contempo- Visit Indian and Lignumvitae Keys rary art in two exhibition spaces. The Key West Theater, a relatively wo Florida Keys islands with by the Florida Park Service. recent addition at 512 Eaton St., significantly different pasts, Botanical State offers an innovative blend of national each a national historic site, Park, 280 acres of forest virtually T acts and locally produced showcas- are accessible only by boat. untouched by man, is located in es. The season’s offerings include On the Atlantic Ocean side of Florida Bay off Islamorada. a variety show and an exclusive the Florida Keys, near Islamorada, The island’s nearly 1,500-year- musical experience featuring Keys Indian Key Historic State Park com- old hardwood lignumvitae trees, performers, Broadway concerts, the prises only 11 acres. In the early Latin for “wood of life,” contain Four rainbow crosswalks at Duval and Petronia streets pay homage to Key West’s stature as an LGBT destination. world premiere of a locally written 19th century it boasted a resin considered to possess me- full-length play and a unique medley salvage community and the largest dicinal benefits. The wood is so of short plays by Key West writers. population between St. Augustine, dense that it will not float in water. Nearby at 416 Eaton St. stands Fla., and Key West. The virgin tropical island remains Tropic Cinema, a nonprofit indepen- o The tiny island once was the much as it was when financier nb w dent film multiplex that specializes i ’ government seat for Dade County, William Matheson purchased it in a in showing new, independent, alter- You can now walk on a “rainbow” in when the county line of what today 1919 and built a four-bedroom native and foreign films. Since its ‘Rin Key West. Actually, four “rainbows.” is Miami-Dade County extended well house there. He left the rest of the debut more than a decade ago, it The City of Key West has installed four permanent K into the Florida Keys. island alone except for creating a has evolved into a Key West treasure rainbow crosswalks at the intersection of Duval and Petro- During the Second War small clearing and boat dock. a whose lobby and theaters also are nia streets, in the heart of the island city’s LGBT entertainment e in 1840, when Indian Key’s Jacob Visitors can explore both histor- the site of community cultural events district. Housman offered to remove the ic sites on Island Heritage Tours ranging from jazz concerts to art n Key West is the first city in Florida to have all four corners of an inter- y from the area, a group departing from Robbie’s Marina, exhibitions and literary lectures. section connected with rainbow crosswalks. of them raided the island, killing mile marker 77.5, in Islamorada. — Carol Shaughnessy o The crosswalks feature bands of all six colors of the , an interna- W settlers and burning buildings. In- — Julie Botteri tskw.org tionally recognized symbol of gay and lesbian unity. dian Key never regained its popula- thekeywesttheater.com floridastateparks.org/indiankey Spearheaded by the city and the Key West Business Guild, the rainbow crosswalks tion, and in 1971 was purchased floridastateparks.org/lignumvitaekey tropiccinema.com k l are composed of preformed thermoplastic color blocks alternating with white stripes. JOHNNY WHITE After the blocks were laid by Community Services Department workers, they were heat- e Stroll Back in Time at Crane Point treated with propane torches to affix the colors permanently to the pavement — ensur- a

ucked away in the heart of Marathon, Crane Point Museum and ing that their message would remain vibrant and welcoming for years to come. s Nature Center spans a 63-acre tropical oasis of hardwood trees, The rainbow crosswalks are the latest manifestation of Key West’s longstanding

Teducational displays and nature trails where adults and children can embrace of diversity. “One Human Family” was adopted as the city’s official philosophy t take a relaxing walk through history and nature. W in 2000, proclaiming equality and acceptance for everyone, and the island is known Located at mile marker 50.5 bayside, Crane Point’s slightly elevated worldwide as a leading LGBT vacation destination. patch of hammock is where Bahamian immigrant George Adderley and “Accepting diversity has been going on for generations in Key West, mainly start- his family set up homestead in the early 20th century. ing back when Key West was an island with no access but by boat,” said Mayor The Adderley home is a popular stop along the 2.5 miles of trails and Craig Cates. “It means so much to Key West to show our diversity, and also it wooden walkways criscrossing the hammock. Trolley tours of the botani- goes perfectly with our ‘One Human Family’ motto.” — Carol Shaughnessy cal gardens and historical sites also are available. cranepoint.net Artwork at The Studios of Key West. fla-keys.com/gay

18 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 19 9336

Shark Point Pa-hay-Okee Overlook To Florida Turnpike Card Sisal Pond Sound to Miami Oyster Bay Mahogany Ocean Hammock Reef Club Island 1 Sweet Bay Everglades Pond 905 Florida Keys Traveling Tips National National Marine Sanctuary North West Cape Park Cape Dagney Johnson Sable Largo Hammock Crocodile Lake Botanical State Park National Wildlife Nine Mile Refuge Pond Hawk Channel to the Florida Keys Long Barnes Carysfort MILE Sound Point Mary Sound 110 Reef Cross Key 905 Alligator Trout Cove Seven Palm Lake Bay Davis Shell Key Key Largo Middle Cape Cove Canal Long Madeira Deer Key Middle Lake Bay Blackwater Bear Garfield Monroe Lake Sound Eagle Key North Lake 9336 Bight Elbow Reef Madeira MILE Snake Bight Rankin Santini Terrapin City of Washington Wreck Middle Cape Lake Point Bay 105 Ingraham Bight Bight Bay Shark Terrapin Boggy Key Dry Rocks Flamingo Crocodile Madeira Point Mosquito Point Largo “” Joe Kemp Umbrella Point Point Point Key Big Key Sound East Cape Bradley Key Rankin Key Canal Key Samphire Buttonwood Grecian East Cape Keys Sound Rocks Newport MILE John Pennekamp 100 Coral Reef State Park Spiegel Grove Benwood Wreck MILE Wreck 95 White Banks Cottrell Rodriguez Key East Key 1 Key Marquesas Tavernier Molasses Hospital Middle Keys Reef Key Key Barracuda MILE Key 90 Pickles Archer Mule Bibb Key Islamorada Key Bay Plantation Wreck

Garden MILE Key Key Boca Grande 85 Plantation Point Duane Bush Key Key Wreck Gulf of Mexico Shell Key Windley Key Fossil Fort Key Reef Geological Reef Crawfish State Park Hen and Jefferson West Upper Chickens Lignumvitae Key Woman MILE Matecumbe Key Reef Key Key 80 Neustra Señora Davis de Atocha Wreck Crocker Reef MILE Teatable Key Dry Tortugas National West National 75 Reef 60 miles west of Key West, Wildlife Refuge Indian Key and 37 miles west of the Florida Keys Lower Eagle National Matecumbe Key Wreck MILE Marine Sanctuary 70 1 Alligator Layton Florida Keys Reef MILE 65 Long Key State National Recreational Area Great White Heron Marathon Conch Key Marine Sanctuary

National Wildlife Refuge MILE 60 Straits of Florida Gulf of Mexico Long Point Tennessee Key Duck Key Reef Florida Keys Big Torch Marathon Big Pine MILE Key Airport 55 Hammock Great White Heron State Park East Turtle Deer Key Shoal Two Humps National Knight’s MILE National Wildlife Refuge Pigeon 50 Vaca Key Key Key Key 1 Middle Old Seven Refuge MILE Torch No Name Mile Bridge West Turtle MILE 45 Shoal Key Key 40 The Cudjoe Key MILE Seven Snake Little 30 Coffins MILE Mile Patch 20 MILE Torch Saddlebunch 25 Coupon MILE 1 Bridge 1 Key Bight 35 Bahia Delta Shoal Herman’s Summerland Ramrod Hole Alexander’s Wreck Keys MILE Key 15 Key Newfound Honda East Thunderbolt Harbor Keys Washerwoman Sombrero Wreck Lower Hawk Channel Samantha’s Atlantic Ocean Big Coppitt State Park Reef West Sugarloaf Key Key Key Flagler’s Barge MILE American Key West Golf 10 Newfound Harbor Seven Mile Bridge Wreck Fleming Dredger’s Course and CC Shoal Coral Heads Key Key 1 Artificial Reef MILE 5 Maryland U.S. Naval Geiger Big Pine Stock Shoals Adolphus MILE Air Station Key Looe Key Shoals 0 Island Busch Sr. Florida Keys Wreck Reef Preserve National Key West SOUTHERNMOST Intl. Airport POINT fla-keys.com Marine Sanctuary KEY WEST, FL Western Eastern Pelican Straits of Florida Sambos Shoal Eastern Sambos Dry Rocks Joe’s Tug Sand Key Western Cayman Vandenberg Dry Rocks Salvor Wreck Wreck

The 125-mile-long Florida Keys island Driving Data to Keys/Key Largo Weather/Climate chain is linked to mainland Florida by U.S. FROM MILES KM HOURS Wherever you are right now, chances are Highway 1, the Overseas Highway. Visitors Miami 50 80 1 the weather is better in the Florida Keys. can fly into Miami International Airport (MIA) Fort Myers 200 320 4 That’s true even on a summer day. The or Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Tampa 300 480 6 Orlando 280 450 5.25 hottest it’s ever been in Key West is 97° F Airport (FLL) and from there can reach (36° C), and that was in 1880. At the the Keys by airport shuttle bus or rental Distance from Miami peak of summer, the average high air car. Travelers can reach Key Largo, the REGION MILES KM MILE MARKER is about 89° F (32° C). The gateway to the Keys, in about an hour from Key Largo 50 80 107–90 Keys are devoid of superhighways or Islamorada 76 122 89–66 Miami or an hour and 45 minutes from Fort urban sprawl to absorb and radiate the Lauderdale. Marathon 111 178 65–45 Lower Keys 128 205 45–4 sun’s heat. And the subtropical islands are Air Service to the Florida Keys Key West 159 254 4–0 cooled by sea breezes. In the winter, the Keys are typically the For an up-to-date roster of commercial Via Bus warmest region in the continental U.S. airlines and on-demand charter operators Bus/shuttle connections from MIA and There has never been a frost in Key West, serving Key West International and Florida FLL to the Florida Keys allow traveling to the according to the U.S. Weather Service. Keys Marathon International Airports, go Keys without renting a car. Below are the average monthly air to fla-keys.com/gettinghere/#air. Via Boat for the past 30 years, Driving Directions Ferry connections from Fort Myers or according to the Key West weather office. Temperatures in blue shades are Fahrenheit From Miami International Airport (MIA), Marco Island to Key West are offered and those in light red are Celsius. take LeJeune Road south to 836 West. via the Key West Express. Voyages take Take the Florida Turnpike south toward Key approximately 3.5 hours. West. Extensive details on getting to the Florida The Turnpike ends at U.S. 1 in Florida City. Keys & Key West are available at: Follow U.S. 1 south about 22 miles to fla-keys.com/gettinghere.cfm Key Largo and you are now in the Florida Keys. From Fort Lauderdale–Hollywood Inter- national Airport (FLL), exit the airport and follow the signs for I–595 West. Take 595 to the Florida Turnpike and follow the signs Help and More Information for the Florida Keys. If you’re traveling in the Keys and From farther north, take the Florida need any help, call the toll-free Visitors’ Turnpike south to just below Fort Assistance line at 1-800-771-KEYS. It’s Lauderdale, where Exit 4 joins the southern staffed 24 hours a day. To contact visitor portion of the Turnpike that ends at U.S. 1 offices in the Keys, call 1-800-FLA-KEYS. in Florida City. Follow U.S. 1 south into the The Keys website at fla-keys.com has a Keys. fla-keys.com live chat feature with visitor information From Florida’s west coast, take I–75 fla-keys.co.uk specialists available during regular U.S. (Alligator Alley) east to the Miami exit, and weekday business hours to aid travelers in south to the Turnpike Extension. vacation planning.