port townsend>>coupeville

CompaA guide toss Puget Sound living

Washington State Ferries DESTINATIONS

Emerald City Sights Museums, restaurants and nightlife

Seaside Communities Beaches, parks and family fun

Spectacular San Juan Islands Where to go, what to see, where to stay

Bonus: Farmers’ Markets Guide

2012 ISSUE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 1 compass magazine >> Leslie Forsberg inside Washington State Ferries 4 www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries Seattle 10 Bainbridge 13 FOUR-DIAMOND Compass Bremerton 17 A guide to Puget Sound living Edmonds 19

Published by Philips Publishing Group for Washington State Ferries Kingston 20

REWARDS PUBLISHER Peter Philips (206) 284-8285 Anacortes 21 [email protected]

Indulge in the luxury & excitement of Tulalip. Advertising Sales San Juan Islands 21 Experience impeccable service, unrivaled rewards and Heidi Witt 206-284-8285 [email protected] THE MOST CASH-BACK of any Washington casino. Mukilteo 26 Editor Leslie Forsberg www.leslieforsberg.com Whidbey Island 26 ART DIRECTOR Marilyn Esguerra

Compass Magazine, the official publication of Port Townsend 29 Washington State Ferries, is published by Philips Publishing Group and distributed on all Washington State Ferries.and terminals No part of this magazine may be Fauntleroy 31 reproduced without the publisher’s written permission. Vashon Island 31 Southworth 32 2201 West Commodore Way 206.284.8285 Seattle, WA 98199 Point Defiance/Ruston 33 www.philipspublishing.com

888.272.1111 TULALIPRESORT.COM WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 3 washington state ferries >> washington state ferries >>

What’s in a Name? A Proud Legacy Sea, Sound or Strait The complicated marine Few areas enjoy a geographic setting as visually memorable as Seattle and the Puget Sound landscape that Washington State shares with British region. Snowcapped mountains—Mount Rainier, the Cascades, Mount Baker, the Olympics— Columbia is roughly divided into benchmark the horizon south, east, west and north. The emerald waters of Seattle’s Elliott three main bodies: Strait of Juan de Fuca is the Bay lead the eye onward to the azure depths of Puget Sound. The glistening urban towers of long arm of the Pacific Ocean Seattle’s downtown reflect the high light of long summer days, and hark back to the towering that reaches eastward 95 miles from Cape Flattery to forests that grew here two centuries ago. Whidbey Island. It is a major international shipping channel, Sailing the Salish Sea serving the ports of Seattle, Today America’s largest ferry system Tacoma and Vancouver, as well operates 22 ferries serving 20 terminals as the refineries near Anacortes, Bellingham and Tsawassen, B.C. on ten routes. More than 22 million passengers ride the sapphire waters Puget Sound is the term for the of our Sound every year, ranging from small inland sea—also called a saltwater estuary system, an commuters who stream into those Robert Demar underwater fjord system, and a downtown Seattle office towers five Cruising through the San Juan Islands aboard a Washington State ferry is one of our state’s most scenic excursions. large bay with many channels days a week, to international visitors and inlets—that stretches south travel destinations with charming in other areas. Ferries managers are marveling at the sight of our native orcas from the Strait of Juan de Fuca towns, beautiful countryside and relaxed currently investigating adoption of to Olympia. Though it’s only in the channels around the San Juan atmospheres. Past the San Juans, Sidney, liquefied natural gas (LNG) propulsion 100 miles long, it contains 1,332 Islands. miles of shoreline. B.C. is the gateway to Canada’s Vancouver systems for future operations. Natural Our ten routes connect the two Island, a rich destination sought by gas is an abundant hydrocarbon in North The Strait of Georgia separates sides of Puget Sound on a daily basis. Vancouver Island from the travelers from around the world. America; LNG is thus an economical and Though the largest share of ferry riders British Columbia mainland, and environmentally friendly fuel already in board at Colman Dock, in downtown Full Speed Ahead generally lies between the north widespread use by public-transit systems, end of the San Juan Islands Seattle, several other routes are key Heritage is a fine foundation, but the largely on buses. Using LNG saves and the Discovery Islands, near transportation links as well. future beckons as well: Construction money, significantly reduces combustion Campbell River, B.C. It’s about From downtown Seattle, boats reach has begun on the first of our fleet’s 150 miles long. The deep golden rays of a summer sunset illuminate a ferry on the Seattle-Bainbridge run. Kitsap Tours emissions and supports American energy Bremerton and Bainbridge Island, two newest boats, a 144-car vessel that can producers. Salish Sea is the term used by very different but equally interesting be deployed on almost any of our routes, ecologists, oceanographers and ashington State Ferries has sailed Dock, and much of Alaskan Way north The future is already here on several communities on the Olympic side of the and will provide better fuel consumption, environmental advocates to this sparkling inland sea for six and south from there, is built on Golden of our boats and in terminals where W Sound. Vashon Island is served by boats cleaner emissions, enhanced passenger define the whole marine system decades, using and respecting a natural State castoff dirt and rocks. Along this we have begun phasing in a state-of- that includes the three bodies of departing from West Seattle’s Fauntleroy safety and comfort, better ADA access resource that has been the centerpiece shore, the long, hand-carved canoes the-art visual paging system. Liquid- water above. The Salish were the dock, a half-hour south of downtown and reduced wake and noise. The $147 original indigenous inhabitants of human life here for millennia. Since of the Northwest’s First Peoples were crystal-display monitors provide our Seattle; departures from here also cross million project is underway at Vigor of most of this area, and just humans first arrived here more than supplanted in 1852 by the jaunty vessels passengers real-time information on to Southworth, on the Kitsap Peninsula, Industrial shipyards in Seattle, and as their heritage spans borders 10,000 years ago, Puget Sound has of the “Mosquito Fleet,” thousands of system operations, enhance our current both national and geographic, gateway to communities such as the supports more than 500 jobs around been both a pathway and a livelihood. boats ranging from tiny aquatic jitneys to broadcast announcement systems, so do the flora and fauna, tidal aptly named Port Orchard. Edmonds is Puget Sound. The new ferry will enter The bustling waterfront of Seattle’s large sternwheelers that carried residents, and offer hearing-impaired customers waters and climatic systems of the departure point for Kingston, gateway service in 2014. the region. The resident orca downtown and port were once the locale visitors and goods back and forth across the chance to receive vital information to the Hood Canal Bridge and the north Our existing Washington State pods that are so emblematic of for thriving villages of indigenous Salish the Sound. In the late 19th and early 20th visually. This system won a national the region, for instance, travel Olympic Peninsula. Mukilteo sailings Ferries boats are among the most peoples who relied on salmon and cedar century, these routes linked virtually award earlier this year for its innovative freely throughout the Salish reach the south end of Whidbey Island; technologically advanced vessels in the as the mainstays of life. Tall conifers every wharf from south of Olympia to the approach to information conveyance. Sea. Pacific salmon, Puget Sound from there, the Coupeville terminal is world, with electronic guidance systems octopus, geoduck clams—all are marched up the hillsides behind, and Canadian border, and were the primary Washington State Ferries has come the departure point for historic Port enabling operations in poor-visibility found throughout these waters. these caught the eyes of tall-ship means of travel in a region where roads a long way since the state stepped in to Townsend. conditions that 60 years ago would have Advocates of the term “Salish captains sailing north from California were poor or nonexistent. meet public transportation needs back Sea” thus favor it as a reminder Our northernmost terminal, at forced ships back to dock. Our guidance seeking timber for San Francisco. That’s the proud legacy Washington in 1951. Just as our captains must scan that all of us who live or travel Anacortes, is the departure point engineers continually keep abreast of In the ensuing trade, the ballast that State Ferries has carried for 60 years a wide area as they guide our boats, we here enjoy the gifts of one for some of the best-known island innovations in safety and navigation. special place—no matter the was offloaded at the foot of Seattle’s hills since the state acquired the assets of are proud to look both back in time and destinations in North America. The Though safety is our most important lines drawn on maps. became today’s waterfront—Washington the last Mosquito Fleet company, Puget forward into the future while we sail the four San Juan Islands—San Juan, Lopez, operational mission, new technologies State Ferries headquarters at Colman Sound Navigation, in 1951. wonderful inland sea that’s our home. Orcas and Shaw—are all lovely, peaceful offer great potential for improvements

4 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 5 washington state ferries >> washington state ferries >>

Meet Your Captain Meet Your Captain Ty Anderson serves aboard the MV Tacoma, on the Chief Engineer Seattle-Bainbridge run; he’s been a captain for 17 years. Judy Fosmo, the Staff Chief What does your job entail? that are increasing and Coast Guard rules Engineer aboard the MV I’m tasked with the safe navigation of that are increasing. Every time a New Yakima, in Anacortes, has the vessel and seeing that passengers, York ferry hits a dock the rules increase. worked for Washington freight, cargo and crew are transported But Washington State Ferries is one of safely. I keep the vessel on time and in the leaders in the industry in the U.S., State Ferries for 30 years; good repair. and we work with the Coast Guard on she retires this spring. In What got you interested in the field? formulating those new regulations. They her time off, she and her really listen to us. I started very young. When I was in high husband have traveled school I worked summers on the ferry What are some of the challenges Coho. After I went to the University of of the job? around the world. Washington I got a job working on the On an average day it runs pretty

Thomas G. Thompson oceanography vessel. smoothly. Then there are other days— WSDOT Bike riders exiting ferry for Chilly Hilly Working for the ferry system made a lot like when there’s a 70-mph wind. Or a What does a chief engineer do? Bruce Coxley of sense. big snafu downtown that causes traffic Bikes Onboard A chief engineer is responsible for the Brackett’s Landing South is a sand beach maintenance and operation of the entire with splendid Puget Sound views. What does it take to become a captain? delays to the point where the vessel can’t We are delighted to provide bicycle riders access vessel. We do plumbing, electrical work, It’s not necessary to have degrees, but run in and out of the slip. Or something to some of the most popular riding destinations in the United States. In particular, our islands are welding and repairs of engines, boilers there’s a lot of study, and you have to goes wrong on the boat; though we have justly famed as bicycle touring venues. Whidbey, The younger guys don’t have those a great deal of redundancy on the boat, and other machinery. We’re responsible work your way up. The U.S. Coast Guard Vashon and Bainbridge Islands are places where for everything from machine parts to prejudices. I’m still the only woman requires you to have time and grade and sometimes things break. day-trippers can hop aboard a ferry in the certain types of grease, to maintain all Chief Engineer. But now there are two take quite a few exams for each step What’s your favorite part of the job? morning, ride off into peaceful country lanes through small towns where cafes offer savory the equipment. On my vessel, a Super women working their way up; two are along the way to increase your license No one else in the world will give me lunch and dinner options, and sail back with us Class, it’s engine-room controlled, so Assistant Engineers already, so things size. It takes many years. a 460-foot boat to run. I enjoy the job to the city in the evening. Vashon challenges we still get telegraph commands from are changing.

because I’m on the water, which I love. I riders with a steep start, followed by miles of WSDOT How have things changed over your 17 the pilothouse, and I’m in the control What special skills do you need to do live on Bainbridge Island, and these are level pedaling; Bainbridge and Whidbey pose years? room, maneuvering during landings and your job? my friends and neighbors I see every day. gentler beginnings. The equipment has changed departures. You need a lot of manual dexterity Island Time I get to talk to them. And I have a nice The San Juan Islands are among the best dramatically. I have two GPS receivers because you’re dealing with tiny snap & Holiday Crowds crew, some of them here for 30 years. It’s overnight bicycle touring locations anywhere. How did you get your start in the field? and two fully computerized radars that Lopez, especially, is famed for its low-traffic back rings. You have to be able to look Washington State Ferries’ cross-sound an extremely stable job. It’s a wonderful, My father and grandfather were both show an incredible amount of data, roads that pass through scenic farmlands; all the terminals, especially those serving the Masters, my brothers are Chief Mates, at diagrams and put them together and I have five radios I listen to, versus wonderful way to make a living…and I islands have small inns that welcome overnight San Juan Islands, are extremely popular offshore. My husband, James Whitefield, in your mind. And you do have to destinations during major holidays and one. Back then we just had a little green have the best view in all of Seattle. bike travelers. who was a Vacation Relief Chief Engi- be mechanically inclined, so you summer weekends. Reservations are available, screen that showed blips. The number Anything else you’d like to add? In every case, clean, fresh air; spectacular neer until his retirement, was the one understand what happens when, say, and highly advisable, on the Anacortes-Sidney of regulatory rules that come out is We’re the cheapest tourist experience in scenery; bike-friendly communities; and B.C. route, and the Port Townsend-Coupeville uncrowded roads and trails beckon. Bike riders who took me down into the engine room someone flushes the toilet. increasing every year. We have EPA rules the whole state! route. On all other routes, for holiday travel, pay passenger rates to get onboard, so this is a of the vessel he was working on, in 1979. What are your typical hours? plan on arriving at the dock an hour or more true travel bargain good for all concerned. I was mesmerized by the whole thing and We work seven 12-hour days on, seven before your desired sailing. Especially subject thought it looked like a great job. James days off, switching between day and to backups are the San Juan Islands, Kingston, Bainbridge and Vashon sailings, and the encouraged me and has been incredibly night shifts. We spend more time with return to the east side of the Sound from supportive throughout my career. our crew—usually three or four of us— those points at the end of holidays. Why is That U.S. Coast Guard Boat Following Us? than with our families. On some of the Washington State Ferries runs, you may notice a U.S. Coast Guard vessel with a gun What was it like for you as a woman, Readout monitors along main ferry access mounted on the front, charging alongside the ferry. It’s nothing to worry about; this is actually a doing this job in the early ’80s? What’s your favorite part of the job? highways provide real-time information routine occurrence. The Coast Guard has been tasked with the safe passage of Washington State Back then, some of the crew didn’t The best part of my job is the crews. on wait times, and the system’s online Ferries and their passengers, so they make regular, random runs alongside the ferries to provide a Commuter Center (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ think a woman should be in the engine I’ve been extremely fortunate in my security presence and let the public know they’re protected. Each of the escort boats—whether a ferries/commuterupdates) offers extremely 25-foot or 45-foot vessel—has a M240B gun on the bow and is operated by a crew of four. room—they thought a woman would whole career to have nothing but really useful terminal wait time information and a jinx the ship. I faced a lot of that early good crews. They’re like family, and I’ll real-time Vessel Watch feature, which tracks While the Coast Guard monitors the ferries’ passage, the Washington State Patrol and yet another where ferries are currently and indicates Coast Guard unit conducts surveillance on ferry docks and onboard the ferries, so passengers can be on, but now it’s such a different attitude. miss them when I’m retired. when ferries are running late. assured of a high level of security throughout their ferry-riding experience.

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Ferry Worker Heroes: Savings Lives on the Water and Off Routes and A ferry passenger had a heart attack and More than 40 ferry They’ve done the drill every week for fell down stairs. A windsurfer bobbing years. They were on the water in less Communities in the waves alongside his board could personnel have than a minute,” says Tullis. “We called not get out of the water off Alki Point. for an aid car, and the rescue boat got The Washington State Ferries system operates A diver in Edmonds’ Underwater Dive been honored her ashore just as the aid car arrived,” he 22 ferries serving 20 terminals on ten routes Park was floating, unresponsive, on the recalls. Then the unthinkable happened. surface of the water. for their speedy Another diver was in distress. “We went that lace back and forth across the waters In each of these cases the outcome responses to medical back into the dive park and got him, and of Puget Sound, linking communities. Come might not have been positive. Yet, brought him to shore, too.” cruise with us as we explore some of the thanks to the regular training and drills It was only later that they learned

emergencies, to date. Stuart Isett/Vigor of Washington State Ferries personnel, the whole story: The divers were husband region’s most picturesque ferry communities. each of these individuals was at the and wife. The woman experienced a center of a highly skilled rescue effort recognizes the individuals who medical emergency while underwater, ranging from administering first aid to put themselves on the front line of and as she was being rescued her maneuvering a ferry alongside to assist emergencies, rendering life-saving husband was searching for her and then getting the individual onboard, procedures. More than 40 ferry personnel exhaustively throughout the dive park. In Bellingham in the case of the windsurfer. Speed is have been honored for their speedy the beginning stages of hypothermia, he Sidney Orcas of the essence in Puget Sound, where responses to medical emergencies, to was unable to swim to shore. 1 the low water temperatures can lead to date. The U.S. Coast Guard awarded the Shaw 5 17 hypothermia in just 10 to 15 minutes. One of the most-memorable rescues captain and two able seamen the highly “When we’re out on the water our occurred at the Edmonds Underwater esteemed Public Service Award for Victoria Friday Lopez Anacortes people don’t have the ability to just call Dive Park on a sunny March morning. their rescue. Yet their best reward came

James Maya Harbor 911, so our personnel are trained as As a ferry was departing with a full load, days after the rescue when the couple, 20 An orca spyhops in Haro Strait, off the west coast first responders for medical assistance,” a deck hand noted a diver in trouble, restored to health, came aboard the ferry of San Juan Island. CANADA Mt. Vernon says Steve Rodgers, director of marine floating on the surface. Captain John with a box of chocolates and hugs all 20 operations. Tullis was alerted, and he ordered the around, to thank the captain and crew Wildlife Watching Onboard USA The Washington State Ferries that ply the waters of Puget The Washington State Ferries’ launch of a rescue boat. “Once I ring the for saving their lives. Port Coupeville Sound—particularly between Anacortes, the San Juan Islands Townsend annual Life Ring Awards Ceremony bells, the crew goes on muscle memory. and Sidney, B.C.—are primarily transport vessels, carrying Port Angeles 101 people, vehicles and goods back and forth. But they are 525 Everett also excellent venues for marine wildlife watching, as these 20 waters are rich in maritime bird life and those most-sought Clinton 2 denizens of our area, whales. Fleet Statistics 104 Mukilteo Bald eagles are seen from observation decks on almost Hood Class Length Beam Draft Auto Deck Knots Horsepower Engines Autos Passengers every sailing; kingfishers, loons (in winter), ducks, puffins Canal Kingston Clearance (in winter) and innumerable other water birds are common. Floating Jumbo Mark II Class Tacoma (1997), 460'2" 90' 17'3" 15'4"-15'6" 18 13,200 4 202 2,500 Harbor seals poke their heads up in the quiet waters of the Bridge Edmonds 3 Wenatchee (1998), Puyallup (1999) ports we sail into; California sea lions bark boisterously from channel buoys, tideline rocks and small skerries along Seattle Jumbo Class Spokane (1972/2004), 440' 87' 18' 15'6"-15'8" 18 11,500 4 188 2,000 Bainbridge Island 90 our routes. Occasionally Steller sea lions, their much-larger Walla Walla (1973/2005) cousins, haul out on rocks. Super Class Hyak (1967), Kaleetan 382' 73' 18'6"-18'9" 14'5"-15'6" 17-20 8,000-10,200 4 144 1,221-2,000 Bremerton Perhaps the most famous whales in the world, the 90 or so Fauntleroy (1967/2005), Yakima (1967/2005), members of the J, K and L pods of orcas, inhabit the area Elwha (1967/1991) around the San Juans much of the year, especially during the Issaquah Class Issaquah (1979/1989), 328' 78'8" 15'8"-16'6" 15'2"-15'10" 16 5,000 2 90-124 1,090-1,200 peak summer visitor months; Haro Strait, west of San Juan Southworth Vashon Kitsap (1980/1992), Kittitas Island, is one of their key summering grounds. Orcas, by the 5 16 (1980/1990), Cathlamet (1981/1993), way, are not technically whales; they are the world’s largest 3 Chelan (1981/2005), Sealth (1982) dolphins, ranging up to 26 feet and 6 tons. Pacific white-sided Tahlequah dolphins are often seen year-round, racing through the Pt. Defiance Evergreen State Class Evergreen 310'-310'2" 73'-73'2" 15'6"-15’10" 13'6"-13'8" 13 2,500 2 87 2,300-2,413 waves (sometimes racing the boat). Minke whales, California 101 Tacoma State (1954/1988), Klahowya gray whales and the occasional humpback whale are possible (1958/1995), Tillikum (1959/1994) sightings, as well. Kwa-Di-Tabil Class Chetzemoka 273'8" 64' 11’ 16'5" 15.5 6,000 2 64 750 Whether you are scanning the waters around the boat or Shelton (2010), Salish (2011), Kennewick (2012) not, we are—it’s our job. And you can be sure the crew will N Hiyu Class Hiyu (1967) 162' 63'1" 11’3" 15' 10 860 2 34 200 announce whale sightings en route. We enjoy the spectacle as much as anyone.

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Ferry service between Seattle and Bainbridge Island connects islanders, Olympic Peninsula Seafood and Flowers at the Pike upscale chain’s flagship store, as well as Place Market scads of national-brand stores can be residents and other visitors with the city of Seattle; the westward route serves as a passageway Across from the Seattle Aquarium, stairs found in the surrounding blocks. Upscale to Kitsap Peninsula and points beyond. This is the system’s most heavily traveled route, carrying climb the steep hillside to the city’s shoppers head to ritzy 5th Avenue, which more than 6 million ferry passengers annually. The crossing takes approximately 35 minutes. venerable Pike Place Market, one of the is lined with couture fashion shops; oldest continually operating markets in it’s also the home of the venerable 5th the nation. A lively mix of farmers, flower Avenue Theatre (1308 Fifth Ave), which growers, fishmongers and craftspeople produces live musicals inside a vintage Seattle peddle their wares here in historic jewel box of a theater with an intricate wooden covered arcades, while buskers Chinese motif. For a progressive, innovative metropolis, play on nearly every corner. The market The acclaimed Seattle Art Museum Seattle has an easygoing vibe often is much more than (1300 First Ave.), ascribed to its spectacular setting, a tourist attraction; featuring Northwest and surrounded by mountains, lakes and Benaroya Hall is the home Seattleites shop here, of the Seattle Symphony. international artworks in the gorgeous inland waterways of Puget too, alongside tourists a contemporary building, Sound. Once known primarily as a center from countries around and Benaroya Hall (200 for aircraft manufacturing, with Boeing the world. Beneath University St.), home of Museum of Flight located here, Seattle today has a diverse the main arcade, the Seattle Symphony, The Museum of Flight’s Great Hall is filled with economy fueled by software, biotech and historic planes. stairs lead to several face each other across Internet companies, including giants levels with a maze Second Avenue. Across Microsoft and Amazon. It’s also fueled by of tiny shops selling Fred Housel from Benaroya The Triple Milestones of Aviation at coffee—Starbucks got its start here, with everything from Door (216 Union St.) is the Museum of Flight the original location in the city’s Pike The Museum of Flight (www.museumofflight. antiques to comic books to imports. a top-notch music venue that books Place Market. org), on East Marginal Way South, 9 miles south The market is an ideal spot to sample national touring acts. Just below the famous hillside of downtown, is one of the largest air-and-space regional foods, with booths selling local museums in the nation. This massive, airy complex market, Seattle’s waterfront has always Brews and Nightlife in Belltown Tim Thompson preserves, cheeses, smoked salmon and holds more than 150 historically significant air- and been a catalyst for the city. In 1897 the A Pike Place Market icon—a neon coffee cup— many other snack items. One of the most- Just north of the Pike Place Market, spacecraft, including the Concorde, one of only 20 glows at sunset. first Gold Rush ship docked on Seattle’s popular snack stops is the Daily Dozen Belltown boasts one of the city’s trendiest built, and the Blackbird, one of the fastest planes ever built, with a speed of more than Mach 3. waterfront, putting the city on the Doughnut Co., where you can watch a club and nightlife scenes. On summer map. Decades later, in 1962, the Seattle evenings, especially, throngs of revelers Exciting interactive exhibits detail the history impressario Ivar Haglund, is a Seattle conveyor belt lifting miniature doughnuts World’s Fair put Seattle on the map leave their downtown jobs behind to of aviation, including Boeing’s original Red Barn, institution known for its fish-and-chips. out of hot oil. Another great gawking internationally, bringing with it a lasting savor fruits of the vine in intimate wine where the company’s first planes were built a Farther north, at Pier 56, Argosy Cruises opportunity can be found at Beecher’s century ago. The Personal Courage Wing highlights legacy of arts and culture. bars, dine in trendy restaurants or rock (www.argosycruises.com) features Puget Handmade Cheese, where workers churn the role of fighters during WWII and the valiant The Emerald City has a lively out in music venues. Sound and Lake Washington cruises, fresh cream in immense vats viewable men who flew them, as well as the hard-working Kirsten Zeller cultural scene today with a wide range Belltown has an extraordinary women who built them. as well as a sailing to nearby Tillicum through street-side windows. of top-notch museums, performing-arts Downtown Seattle’s Myrtle Edwards Park features number of eateries, including Tom Village, on Blake Island, for a Northwest shoreline access. Several of the city’s best restaurants The Museum recently opened the Charles Simonyi venues downtown and at the Seattle Douglas’ Contemporary American Space Gallery with the Soyuz TMA-14 spacecraft Native-inspired dinner and performance. can be found in or near the market: as its centerpiece. NASA’s Full Fuselage Trainer is Center, and scores of galleries in Pioneer Famed Northwest chef Tom Douglas’ restaurant the Dahlia Lounge (2001 Miners Landing, at Pier 57, teems aquarium’s Underwater Dome surrounds slated to arrive this summer, and an accompanying Square and other neighborhoods. When Fourth Ave.); acclaimed chef Ethan with excited kids year-round, with arcade visitors with Puget Sound sea life. Etta’s Seafood (2020 Western Ave.) exhibit will detail the rigors of training required to Seattleites aren’t exploring the arts or Stowell’s aria to Italian food, Tavolata games and an indoor carousel and, Anthony’s Fish Bar offers carryout overlooks scenic Victor Steinbrueck Park. prepare astronauts for spaceflight. enjoying festivals, they’re enjoying the (2323 Second Ave.); Shiro’s sushi beginning this summer, a 175-foot-tall seafood at Pier 66; many diners enjoy The Pink Door (1919 Post Alley) features out-of-doors—kayaking on Lake Union, bar (2401 Second Ave.); and the New Ferris wheel that will offer birds-eye their meals outdoors overlooking the Northern Italian fare served on a view hiking in the city’s parks or nearby American cuisine spot Spur Gastropub views of the waterfront. Bell Harbor Marina. Just beyond, Myrtle deck overlooking Elliott Bay, and Chez Sensational Seafair mountains, biking on the Burke Gilman (113 Blanchard St.). Seafair (www.seafair.com), a multi-layered Between piers 57 and 59, Waterfront Edwards Park is a 1.25-mile shoreline Shea (94 Pike St.) is a peerless French Trail or sailing on Puget Sound. Music lovers flock to Belltown’s summertime cultural and arts festival Park offers additional views of the park with grassy meadows and a restaurant with a seasonal, local-foods live-music venues, which range from that takes place in neighborhoods across Waterfront Walk waterfront and downtown from atop small sand beach, as well as bike and menu. the city, reaches its apex at the Seafair the classy Dimitriou’s Jazz Alley (www. Seattle’s waterfront bustles year-round two viewing platforms, and a fountain pedestrian trails. Near the entrance to Torchlight Parade (July 28) and the Albert Downtown Shopping jazzalley.com), the epicenter of Seattle’s with visitors and locals alike strolling sprays a welcome mist on strollers in hot the park, a sloping path leads upward Lee Cup hydroplane races and Boeing Air Westlake Center (400 Pine St.), a glass- jazz and blues scene, to The Crocodile Show (Aug. 3-5). The festival encompasses its broad promenade, watching massive summer weather. to the landscaped terraces of the free, fronted multilevel shopping mall, (2200 Second Ave.)—the historic home dozens of entertaining events, including a container vessels cruise past and ferries At Pier 59, the Seattle Aquarium, outdoor Olympic Sculpture Park, known Milk Carton Derby (July 14) at Green Lake, anchors the pedestrian Westlake Park base of many music startups, including slipping in and out of the Seattle ferry one of the largest aquariums in the for the grandeur of its views across Puget in downtown Seattle, surrounded by a 5 miles north of downtown, Fleet Week Nirvana, Pearl Jam and R.E.M.—for hip- (Aug. 1-5), and numerous ethnic parades terminal at Pier 52. nation, showcases marine life from the Sound to the Olympics as much as for its thriving retail district. (1601 Third Macy’s hop, punk, electronica and more. and celebrations. Next to Coleman Dock at Pier 54, Northwest and beyond, including slinky collection of contemporary artworks by Ave.) and Nordstrom (500 Pine St.), the Ivar’s Acres of Clams, founded by Seattle sea otters and evanescent seahorses; the international artists.

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Suquamish Showcase Entering through the door of a longhouse, visitors will walk between a representation of a forest on one side and the ocean on the other as they’re Center for Wooden Boats Center for Wooden immersed in the sights and sounds of the One of Seattle’s most fascinating recreational options can be found at The Center for world of the Suquamish Nation (www. Wooden Boats (www.cwb.org) on South Lake Union, where a fleet of vintage wooden vessels, suquamish.org) at the tribe’s spectacular including sail- and rowboats, is available for rent. The center celebrates and sustains the region’s new interactive museum, the Suquamish Leslie Forsberg small-craft heritage through classes in boatbuilding and sailing. On Sundays, May through Museum & Arts Center, opening November, CWB offers free sailboat rentals and free pond-boat rentals, for use in the nearby September 15, just beyond Bainbridge Model Boat Pond. Seattle Center Island, on Suquamish Way. The “People of Seattle’s iconic Space Needle, built for the the Clear Salt Water” have lived on Puget 1962 Seattle World’s Fair, is the centerpiece Leslie Forsberg Sound’s tidelands from time immemorial; of the 74-acre Seattle Center, the city’s civic the esteemed Chief Seattle, born in Art-Filled Pioneer Square Colorful International District center, where arts venues, museums and 1786, was one of their ancestral leaders. South of the Seattle ferry terminal and A few blocks southeast of Pioneer Square, theaters surround the dramatic International The new museum, dedicated to the rich history of the Suquamish, will explain a block inland from the waterfront, the the Chinatown-International District Fountain. The Center draws arts patrons to Bainbridge Island their origin legends and their legacies by oldest part of Seattle, Pioneer Square, is the city’s most colorfully ethnic the Pacific Northwest Ballet, the Seattle Opera and Seattle Repertory Theatre, and kids and With 53 miles of shoreline offering which drew Japanese and Hawaiian means of a 2,000-square-foot exhibit hall dates from 1852. Tree-shaded historic neighborhood. Roast ducks hang in store and a gallery with temporary exhibits. families to the Seattle Children’s Museum, spectacular views of Mount Rainier, millworkers. The rich mix of ethnicities brick buildings here house cafes, sports windows, baskets of Asian vegetables Outside, a native plants garden will offer Seattle Children’s Theater and Pacific Science the Olympics and the Cascades, as well grew as shipyards attracted workers bars, nightclubs and galleries. The and spices spill out of hole-in-the- Center. There’s much more to experience here, details about how these plants were used as Douglas fir forests and small-town from the Philippines and other nations. by the Suquamish. Klondike Gold Rush National Historical wall storefronts, and family-owned though, from art exhibits and concerts to a popular skateboard park. charm, Bainbridge Island is one of The museum has a particularly poignant Park (319 Second Ave. S.) draws history restaurants attract diners for dim sum the most-visited tourist attractions in exhibit about Executive Order 9066 of buffs with its excellent interactive and plates of ethnic fare. The Seattle Center thrums with music and crowds during festivals, including classics such Washington State. The ease of getting 1942, which forced island residents of of the West Coast’s most-enchanting exhibits that bring the Gold Rush days Uwajimaya (600 Fifth Ave. S.), a as the Northwest Folklife Festival (May 25-28), there, via a scenic 35-minute Washington Japanese descent into internment camps examples of natural woodlands and and other moments in Seattle’s history sprawling complex stacked high with Bite of Seattle (July 20-22) and Bumbershoot State Ferries cruise from Seattle’s in eastern California and Idaho. landscaped gardens can be found at to life. Yet more historic details can imported goods, fresh seafood and exotic (Sept. 1-3), in addition to many ethnic festivals waterfront, draws visitors year-round to The nearby Kids Discovery Museum Bloedel Reserve (www.bloedelreserve. be gleaned on a Seattle Underground groceries, is a Seattle institution; a busy held throughout the year. the friendly, artsy town center, just a five- (301 Ravine Lane NE), with its Pirate Tree org), a world-class 150-acre public Tour (www.seattleundergroundtour. food court here features Asian delicacies The Next Fifty, celebrating the 50th anniversary minute walk from the terminal. House, Our Town exhibit and outdoor garden with a reflecting pool, Japanese com), such as the fact that the city was in many forms. of the city’s World’s Fair, through October 21, Following a major renovation project, play space (complete with a pint-sized Garden and elegant estate home. once built on tidal flats, causing some Visitors can better understand the will add many other entertaining options, including historical exhibits and “King Tut: The the town is at its most-beautiful ever, ferry boat) is a great place to engage The island has several beautiful unfortunate plumbing problems. Early history of this vibrant neighborhood Golden King and the Great Pharaohs” (May 24– with fashionable boutiques facing broad children’s imaginations. shoreline parks overlooking Puget city planners raised the entire city by by visiting the small, but exceptional Jan. 6, 2013) at the Pacific Science Center, with new sidewalks and baskets of blooms Bainbridge Island is known for its Sound and the surrounding mountains. a story, leaving behind storied tunnels Wing Luke Museum (719 S. King St.), more than 100 objects from King Tut’s tomb. adding reflective sparks of color to jewelry spectacular gardens, whether public On the southern tip, Fort Ward State traversed on the tours. which tells the poignant tales of early East of the Center, across Fifth Avenue, the and gift shop windows. Downtown show gardens or private gardens opened Park is a 137-acre marine park with Pioneer Square is also known for immigrants through interactive exhibits spectacular new, 11,000-square-foot Bill & Bainbridge Island is only a block from the to the public one weekend a year, more than a mile of picnic-perfect its numerous fine-art galleries. The and tours of the historic Yick Fung Melinda Gates Foundation Visitor Center ferry terminal; to reach downtown, turn during the annual Bainbridge in Bloom shoreline on Rich Passage, where First Thursday Seattle Art Walk, noon company store and a historic hotel. (1551 Eastlake Ave. E) has received worldwide attention for its inspiring exhibits dedicated to left on Winslow Way East. (www.gardentour.info), July 8-10. One Seattle-Bainbridge ferries strike a pose to 8 p.m. the first Thursday of each The fire-engine-redGrand Pavilion, humanitarian efforts around the world. You’ll History buffs will be fascinated by month, offers opportunities to meet the in Hing Hay Park (423 Maynard Avenue never encounter another museum like it—it’s the Bainbridge Island Historical Society artists and view new exhibits. S.), is a mark of pride for area residents, meant to provoke thoughts and action. Even & Museum (125 Ericksen Ave.), which South of Pioneer Square, in the SoDo who turn out in large numbers alongside the restroom stall doors have large photos of rustic latrines one might encounter in a showcases the island’s history. Originally District, Seattle’s stadium complex— visitors several times a year for remote village in India or Africa, and a question the home of the Suquamish Nation, in Safeco Field (Mariners) and CenturyLink multicultural festivals, including the Bon posed at the drinking fountains asks “What if the 1800s Bainbridge Island boasted the Field (Seahawks and Sounders)—draws Odori and Moon festivals and the Lunar you had to walk three miles for a sip?” world’s largest sawmill, at Port Blakely, legions of sports fans on game days. New Year celebration.

12 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 13 seattle >> bainbridge Beyond Bainbridge: Poulsbo The pond at Bloedel Velkommen Reserve is a serene On State Route setting amid woods 104 just past Ag- and gardens. ate Pass, set on a sapphire, fjord- Poulsbo! Little Norway on the Fjord like arm of Puget Sound, Poulsbo is Only 8 miles from Bainbridge and often called “Little 17 miles from Kingston Norway.” Settled by

Norwegian fisher- Joe Mabel men and loggers, Poulsbo today still has hints of its Scandinavian past: The prominent Sons of Norway (18891 Front St. NE) hosts

Kitsap Tours pancake breakfasts and Scandinavian

The Chilly Hilly, in March, draws dance classes; The Nordic Maid (18954 Steven Pavlov thousands of bike riders to Bainbridge. Front St. NE) sells imported linens, Left: The historic First Lutheran church sits on a Indoors or outdoors there’s Bloedel Reserve candleholders and more; and the town’s hill top offering a magnificent view of Poulsbo. lots to do in Poulsbo–shopping, Above: Downtown Poulsbo—a treasure trove for popular Viking Fest (see below) allows shoppers. dining, hiking, bird watching, everyone to channel their inner Viking. against emerald forests as they cruise canopied wooden boats culinary hub, drawing diners fishing and boating. Bainbridge Boutiques and galleries line the Formerly known as Liberty Bay Park, it’s past. On the northeastern edge, Fay ideal for ogling spectacular Island and the from Seattle and farther afield town’s compact Front Street. Four parks ideal for picnics. The nearby Olympic Out- Bainbridge State Park has log-strewn waterfront homes. Mosquito Fleet to restaurants specializing in are within easy walking distance of door Center has a rental dock with kayaks Come and find out why sand beaches with the skyline of Seattle Bainbridge Island’s Before modern ferries and local foods. Among the best interior roads, the only downtown, including Muriel Iverson Wil- and stand-up paddleboards for conveying they call ours one of the in the distance. downtown is a magnet for are acclaimed Northwest chef way to get to and around liams Waterfront Park near the marina. visitors on their own aquatic voyages. friendliest places in the state. With salt-air breezes and miles shoppers, with boutiques Bainbridge Island was Greg Atkinson’s newly opened of rolling country roads, Bainbridge selling women’s and chil- via water. The island was Restaurant Marché (150 is beloved by outdoors enthusiasts, dren’s fashions, home décor, served by dozens of small Madrone Lane), a contempo- especially bikers, who flock aboard the art and jewelry. Bainbridge steamships that carried rary Northwest bistro using passengers and freight Poulsbo is a delightful community between What’s Happening in Poulsbo Seattle-Bainbridge ferry year-round. (151 Winslow foods from island farms; and Arts & Crafts between landings where Bainbridge Island, Kingston and the Hood Canal Bridge. Classic Cycle (740 Winslow Way NE) Way E) is a cooperative communities formed and Four Swallows (481 Madison It was established in 1886 as a fishing and boatbuilding village on rents bikes and provides island biking gallery with works by West grew. The 10-mile-long Ave. N), featuring fresh, local scenic Dog Fish Bay, now known as Liberty Bay. Due to the likeness of maps. Coast artists. island had an astonishing seafood in a charming historic the founding father’s motherland, Poulsbo has been nicknamed “Little 30 steamship landings. Exotic Aquatics Scuba and For a small island, home. Norway on the Fjord”. Island residents could no shortage of things to do. Poulsbo’s historic downtown Kayaking (146 Winslow Way W) and Back Bainbridge boasts a lot Blackbird Bakery (210 discern the differences district on the waterfront features 65 shops and services plus 13 of Beyond Explorations (181 Winslow of wineries; seven can be Winslow Way E) always has among captains’ whistles, restaurants for a day of shopping and dining. Naturalists can explore Enjoy the Port of Poulsbo hustling down to the dock Voted 2nd best Farmers Market in the State Way) offer kayak rentals and guided found throughout the is- a lineup for homespun pies miles of walking trails and water parks – Poulsbo is famous for bird More than 130 guest slips, restrooms, to catch the requisite Every Satruday, 9am-1pm, through December 22. tours of the island’s wildlife-rich bays, land. Three—Amelia Wynn, and tarts, pastries and coffee watching and marine life exploration as well. You can take in a tour steamer. www.poulsbofarmersmarket.org shower, laundry, and fuel dock and Eagle Harbor Electric Boat Rentals Fletcher Bay and Victor Alex- cakes, and Mora Iced Cream- through Poulsbo’s historical museum, visit the free Marine Science (www.theeagleharborinn.com) features ander—offer samples of their ery (139 Madrone Lane) spe- Center or rent a boat on Liberty Bay during the summer months. www.portofpoulsbo.com handcrafted, premium wines in the cializes in premium frozen concoctions celebrate with locals at events thoughout the year. cozy Island Vintners (450 Winslow Way made with natural ingredients; their Voted 2nd best in the state by it’s peers, Poulsbo’s Farmers Market runs from April through December. Art walks are every second Saturday. E) tasting room, downtown; to fashion blueberry ice-cream bursts with whole This year, Poulsbo will be the official greeter to the 2012 Babe Ruth your own wine trail, check out www. berries. World Series, held in Central Kitsap and will honor the area with a PLACES TO STAY bainbridgewineries.com. The island is While downtown Bainbridge has parade down Front Street. also home to a craft distillery and a many charms and activities to keep visi- Welcome boaters. Poulsbo boasts the areas finest marine www.poulsboinn.com brewery: Bainbridge Organic Distillers tors busy, travelers who are interested port with ample guest moorage and services – 130 slips, restrooms, Steven Pavlov 1.800.597.5151 (www.bainbridgedistillers.com) creates in exploring farther afield can take an showers, laundry and fuel dock. Visit the port’s website at www. DON’T MISS VIKING FEST NEXT YEAR - Celebrate the spirit of our small-batch whiskey, gin and vodka, excursion on a Kitsap Tours (www.kitsap- poulsbo.com Scandinavian Founders. Occurs annually in May. www.vikingfest.org www.guesthousintl.com/ and offers tastings and tours; and tours.com) bus, which picks them up in So turn left at Hostmark Street and come see what 3rd of July - Independence Day Celebration. www.3rdofJuly.org hotels/poulsbo Bainbridge Island Brewing (www.bain- downtown Bainbridge, and embarks on “Velkommen” is all about! Americana Music Festival September 8th - Concert for the entire family. Poulsbo waterfront. www.poulsbomusicfestival.com 1.800.214.8378 bridgebeer.com), a new microbrewery, history, shopping and dining tours of the www.historicdowntownpoulsbo.com will open a taproom this summer. island and the Kitsap Peninsula, or the Christmas in Poulsbo 65 shops, hay rides, Father For more to do on Kitsap visit www.visitkitsap.com Christmas and Yulefest. www.historicdowntownPoulsbo.com Bainbridge Island has become a Olympic Peninsula. www.historicdowntownpoulsbo.com

14 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 15 seattle >> bremerton Puget Sound Farmers Markets The hour-long ferry journey from Seattle to Bremerton is one of the most scenic and ANACORTES FARMERS MARKET EDMONDS MUSEUM MUKILTEO FARMERS MARKET Saturdays 9 a.m.–2 p.m. SUMMER MARKET Wednesdays 3-7 p.m. relaxing cruises in the ferry system, giving visitors time to ogle waterfront homes and May –early October Saturdays 9 a.m.–3 p.m. June–September 7th Street & R Avenue July–early October Lighthouse Park next to the ferry dock the impressive array of Olympic Range peaks to the west. www.anacortesfarmersmarket.org Fifth and Bell streets www.mukilteofarmersmarket.org

www.historicedmonds.org/Summer_ Christina Pivarnik BAINBRIDGE ISLAND Market.html OAK HARBOR PUBLIC MARKET FARMERS MARKET (WHIDBEY ISLAND) SAN JUAN ISLAND FARMERS MARKET Saturdays 9 a.m.–1 p.m. GREENBANK FARM SUNDAY MARKET Thursdays 4-7 p.m. Saturdays 10 a.m.–1 p.m. Bremerton mid-April–November, (WHIDBEY ISLAND) mid-May–September late April–September until 2 p.m. July–Labor Day Sundays 11 a.m.–3 p.m. State Route 20 next to Visitor A bustling Navy town—the Puget Sound Brickworks Plaza in Friday Harbor Town Square at City Hall Park mid-May–September Information Center www.sjifarmersmarket.com Naval Shipyard dominates Bremerton’s www.bainbridgefarmersmarket.com State Route 525 & Wonn Road www.oakharborchamber.com www.greenbankfarm.com waterfront—Bremerton has remade itself BAYVIEW FARMERS MARKET ORCAS ISLAND FARMERS MARKET SOUTH WHIDBEY FARMERS MARKET Sundays 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. (WHIDBEY ISLAND) KINGSTON FARMERS MARKET Saturdays 10 a.m.–3 p.m. in recent years into an appealing stop late April–October Saturdays 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Saturdays 10 a.m.–2 p.m. May–September for visitors. The town, the largest on the 2812 Thompson Road, www. late April–October May–mid-October Village Green in Eastsound southwhidbeytilth.org Olympic Peninsula (pop. 38,000), is proud State Route 525 & Bayview Road Mike Wallace Park at the Port of www.orcasislandfarmersmarket.org www.bayviewfarmersmarket.com Kingston of its service to the country, and a visit PIKE PLACE MARKET (SEATTLE) VASHON ISLAND FARMERS MARKET www.kingstonfarmersmarket.com Saturdays 10 a.m. –2 p.m. BREMERTON FARMERS MARKET Open every day 9 a.m.–6 p.m. invariably includes an enlightening and April–mid-November Thursdays 4-7 p.m. at LANGLEY SECOND STREET MARKET until 5 p.m. Sundays Village Green Park, Vashon Highway fascinating trip to the nation’s military Evergreen Park (WHIDBEY ISLAND) First Avenue & Pike Street SW & Bank Road www.bremertonmarket.wordpress.com Fridays 3-7 p.m. www.pikeplacemarket.org past. The population of the town swelled www.stov.us/at/farmersMark.html June–September during WWII, when 80,000 residents lived COUPEVILLE FARMERS MARKET POULSBO FARMERS MARKET 221 Second Street WEST SEATTLE FARMERS MARKET (WHIDBEY ISLAND) Saturdays 9 a.m.–1 p.m. here, working in the shipbuilding and www.visitlangley.com Sundays 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Saturdays 10 a.m.–2 p.m. early April–December year-round repair yards. late April–late October LOPEZ ISLAND FARMERS MARKET Poulsbo Village Medical/Dental Center 44th Avenue SW and SW Alaska 788 Alexander Street Saturdays 10 a.m.–2 p.m. (7th and Iverson) Bremerton’s deep and personal www.seattlefarmersmarkets.org May–September www.poulsbofarmersmarket.org commitment to military service takes Lopez Village www.lopezfarmersmarket.com shape on the waterfront, where the

Puget Sound Navy Museum (251 First Legendary Portraits of Manette St.) features historical exhibits about Bremerton’s art-filled Harborside Fountain Park is a relaxing retreat.

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16 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 17 edmonds >> kingston the Puget Sound Naval Shipyard. On the waterfront just east of the ferry terminal, the Louis Mentor Boardwalk ends at Seventeen miles north of Seattle, the attractive seaside town of Edmonds rolls gently the U.S.S. Turner Joy, a renowned Navy downhill to Puget Sound and the gleaming white Washington State ferries that glide in destroyer that took part in the Vietnam War. and out of the Edmonds Terminal, en route to Kingston, on the west side of the Sound. The Today it’s a floating museum that offers insights into life onboard naval vessels. crossing takes approximately 30 minutes. Modern-day tributes to the efforts of Bremerton shipbuilders can be found Victoria, BC while strolling through the town’s lovely Edmonds Harborside Fountain Park, just west of the Shingle mills that processed the area’s ferry dock, with its dramatic fountains that once-abundant Western red-cedar evoke submarine towers, and spout water stretched along the waterfront during 60 feet into the air. Artworks here include the early 1900s; today the waterfront is bronzes that capture the contribution of Edmonds’ front porch, with lovely sand individual shipbuilders. beaches ideal for sand-castle building, If you’ve arrived in Bremerton by car, beachcombing or just breathing in the you’ll find that traffic is channeled through fresh salt air. a tunnel, diverting it from downtown San Juan Islands North of the ferry dock, Brackett’s streets. To reach downtown, turn right at Landing North is one of the most the end of the tunnel onto Park Avenue, and charming, and accessible small beaches then take any right. The next main street to in Puget Sound, with public art, picnic RemembeR when So next time consider skipping the west, Pacific Avenue, is the town’s main tables and a front-row seat for viewing traveling was an exciting the ferry lines to the San Juan shopping district. Starting at Fifth Avenue divers just offshore in the Edmonds and fun experience? You didn’t Islands and avoid the hoards of and heading south, you’ll findTwo Sisters Underwater Park. This park is no have to wait hours in a long people at border on your way (520 Pacific Ave.), with lovely handmade ordinary dive spot; it encompasses more Bruce Coxley ferry line, there were no huge to Victoria, BC. With Kenmore jewelry; Simply Renewed (408 Pacific Ave.), than 27 acres of tidelands and sea floor, security issues to deal with, Air you’ll be there in about with antique collectables; and the Amy with manmade reef and sunken vessels and you didn’t need to show 45 minutes. It just doesn’t get Burnett Gallery (402 Pacific Ave.), where the providing habitat for a wide variety of best restaurants, including two large up hours before your flight. easier than this. whimsical Pyrex Museum recalls memories Puget Sound sea life, from Dungeness seafood emporiums on the waterfront of the ’50s for boomers. At 331 Pacific crab and octopi to colorful sea anemones. with lovely water and Olympic Range Flying with Kenmore Air Kenmore Air’s daily scheduled Avenue, Collective Visions is a cooperative Brackett’s Landing South, a sand beach views—the venerable, family-friendly will give you a whole new flights to over 45 spectacular gallery with a broad array of works by perspective on travel – the Northwest destinations are a with grassy hillocks ideal for picnicking, Arnie’s (300 Admiral Way) and Anthony’s artists from around West Puget Sound. way it’s supposed to feel. fast, convenient and stress-free flanks the ferry terminal to the south. HomePort (456 Admiral Way), with a Families with young children have a alternative. Just beyond, Olympic Beach, with a highly coveted outdoor dining area treat in store at the Aurora Valentinetti fishing pier and picnic tables, offers yet on the water. At the center of town Puppet Museum (257 Fourth St.), which more seashore access. several eateries attract diners looking Bruce Coxley displays puppets from around the world and While Edmonds’ beaches are a huge for fresh, seasonal fare. Among them even has a pint-sized version of a puppet Top: The Edmonds Arts Festival, on Father’s Day draw, there’s a lot going on throughout are Epulo Bistro (526 Main St.), which theater and puppets in the lobby for kids Weekend, offers a wide array of local arts and crafts. town, especially in warm-weather serves Mediterranean-meets-the Bottom: Brackett’s Landing North, adjacent to the to put on their own plays. They’ll also likely months, when flowerpots brimming with Northwest foods; and The Loft Café and Edmonds ferry dock, is a scenic stretch of sand beach. enjoy The Kitsap County Historical Museum blooms are set out in front of boutiques, Social Lounge (515-A Main St.), with (280 Fourth St.), where visitors can walk and shoppers stroll the town’s streets, artfully presented New American fare On summer Saturdays, the Edmonds through the entryway of the 1919 Washing- which radiate outward from a fountain and specialty cocktails in a convivial Museum Market, held on Fifth Street ton School and stroll down “Main Street,” at the corner of Fifth and Main. The town courtyard setting. near the fountain, is a great place to with storefronts from the early 20th century. has a ladies-who-lunch feel to it, with With water’s-edge parks and sample regional foods and produce; the Inside Passage, BC When it’s time to dine, Anthony’s at colorful store windows beckoning visitors expansive views, it’s no wonder that nearby Edmonds Historical Museum (118 Sinclair Inlet (20 Washington Ave.) offers inside to view local art, jewelry and other Edmonds is a popular place for festivals. Fifth Ave. N) chronicles the history and Northwest seafood in a contemporary keepsakes. Gallery North (508 Main St.) Among the largest are the Edmonds changes that have shaped the city. waterfront setting. For more casual fare, is a cooperative gallery with works in Rotary Waterfront Festival (June 1-3); the When sunsets paint the skies over Hi-Lo’s 15th Street Café (2720 15th St.) serves pottery, woodwork, glass and other media Edmonds Arts Festival (June 15-17); and Puget Sound, couples and families flock hearty breakfasts and lunches, and the tiny by local artists, and the town’s Third An Edmonds Kind of 4th, on the Fourth to the historic Edmonds Theater (415 Reservations 866.435.9524 • KenmoreAir.com Boogaloo’s Bar-B-Que (100 Washington Thursday Art Walk draws arts lovers of July. On Sundays in the summer, free Main St.), a vintage gem, or take in a play Ave.), on the waterfront, features moist, San Juan Islands (Orcas, San Juan & Lopez) • Olympic Peninsula from around the region. Concerts in the Park are held at City Park, by the Driftwood Players at the 223-seat smoky brisket sandwiches for take-away. Victoria, BC • Vancouver Island • BC Inside Passage Edmonds has some of the region’s at Third Avenue South and Howell Way. Wade James Theatre (950 Main St.).

18 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 19 edmonds >> kingston anacortes >> san juan islands

Washington State Ferries serves the four main San Juan islands— Kingston Lopez, Orcas, Shaw and San Juan, as well as Sidney, near Victoria, B.C. On the Kitsap Peninsula across For Sidney, it’s advisable to secure a vehicle reservation in advance from Edmonds, the seaside if traveling with your vehicle. The San Juans and Sidney route is the enclave of Kingston is centered on the Edmonds-Kingston Ferry most-complex in the system, with a variety of routes to and among Terminal. It’s a busy place: The the islands, and variable schedules for each route. The Anacortes Ferry ferry carries more than 4 million Terminal is located 3.5 miles west of town, on State Route 20. passengers annually. While Waterfront Jewel of many pass through on their way Kitsap Peninsula to or from the Kitsap Peninsula Kitsap Tours Kingston’s quaint shops and cafes attract ferry riders. or Olympic Peninsula, those in San Juan the know plan extra time to enjoy Port Gamble theater Co. old-fashioned way, with all-natural 4839 NE View Drive Kingston’s compact, attractive downtown Leslie Forsberg Islands www.portgambletheater.com with gift shops and eateries catering to ingredients. In a historic wood building The Port Gamble General Store has an old-fashioned Consisting of 172 islands, islets and small tea room at Port Gamble ferry riders. (the Old Kingston Hotel), the Granola candy shop and a shell museum. skerries in the Salish Sea, the San Juan Bistro by Night With so many travelers passing Factory & Bakery (25931 Washington Islands are surrounded by more than 32279 Rainier Street through, Kingston specializes in quick Blvd.) features fresh-made granola and Beyond Kingston: www.tearoomatportgamble.com water. Mountains loom in the distance— [email protected] bites. J’Aime Les Crepes (11264 Hwy. pastries. Port Gamble especially the ivory summit of 10,781-foot mike’s Four star bbQ

104 NE), with fruit- and chocolate-filled In summertime, bands frequently Steve Berentson Eight miles northwest of Kingston on Mount Baker, 50 miles eastward. Clean Authentic Pit BBQ crepes, is a perennial favorite; Cuppa play at the band shell in Mike Wallace Anacortes’ antiques shops and cafes In the Historic Service Station State Route 104, the historic community offer treasures and treats. Pacific air rushes down the Strait of Juan Bella Coffee & Sweets (10984 Hwy. 104 Park, between the terminal and the Port 360.297.4227 of Port Gamble, a National Historic Land- de Fuca to envelop the islands. Poised in www.mikesfourstarbbq.com NE) features homemade fudge; and of Kingston Marina, and a sprawling mark, is an idyllic hamlet where time a rain shadow created by the Olympic Port Gamble Guest houses Mora Iced Creamery (11250 Hwy 104 farmers’ market adds a festive feel on seems to stand still. This placid setting Mountains to the southwest, the islands Affordable Waterfront Vacation Rentals NE) makes small-batch ice cream the Saturdays. Anacortes www.portgambleguesthouse.com with pastel, New England–style gabled are bathed in sunlight throughout the homes and a tall-steepled, white church, Equidistant between Seattle to the summer and much of the rest of the year. olymPiC outdoor Center has a main street lined by yet more south and Vancouver, B.C. to the north, The result of the islands’ geo- Kayak, SUP Rentals, Classes, Tours, Events and Sales 360.297.4659 vintage homes, new antiques shops and Anacortes, on Fidalgo Island (reached graphical character is a palpable sense www.olympicoutdoorcenter.com www.kayakproshop.com knick-knack boutiques. via a bridge across a narrow channel), is of unhurried serenity. Fewer than 16,000 Leave the ordinary behind. During the timber boom days of the the gateway to the San Juan Islands and people live here. Small towns with Port Gamble General store & CaFé late 19th century, Port Gamble was a model Victoria, B.C. The city of Anacortes is a charming inns, cafes and shops give way Dine and Shop! Breakfast & Lunch served daily! www.portgamblegeneralstore.com Go extraordinary. company town. The owners of the Puget retail and maritime center that’s home to to pastoral farmlands, forested hills and [email protected] 360.297.7636 Mill Co. believed that workers with good one of the largest boat-building facilities 300 miles of shoreline lapped by gentle homes and a stable community would on the West Coast. Several whale- waves. Artists, musicians, chefs and tanGo Zulu imPorts A World of Artisans be more productive, so the millworkers watching charter operations here draw crafters flock here; the quiet is not only www.tangozuluimports.com enjoyed everything from early indoor visitors, and travelers heading to the San intrinsic to the islands, it’s protected by 360.297.3030 plumbing and electricity to a medical Juans or Victoria stop in to explore the law: San Juan County was the first ju- Wish merCantile clinic, store and community hall. The town’s art galleries and antiques shops, risdiction in the United States that bans “For Something Different” – Gifts and Local Art quaint Port Gamble Historic Museum or to have a meal in a local cafe. Festivals, personal watercraft. Kayaking and sailing, 360.930.8437 illuminates the lives of those who once such as the Anacortes Waterfront bike-riding and hiking, whale-watching on iridesCent WinGs lived and worked here. Festival (June 2-3) and the Anacortes Arts and beachcombing are the key activi- Center for Healing and Personal Discovery The All-NewTPC LOGO - 2012 Point Casino! 206.235.3922 Today, the community gathering spot Festival (Aug. 3-5) are another draw. ties—aside from simply listening to the We’ve upgraded to a brand new building with lots more to do, but we’ve kept our of this bluff-top town is the venerable Port One of the finest city parks in the bark of sea lions, the cry of eagles and the Quilted strait Extraordinary Fabric for Quilting Everyday unmatched family-style guest service you’ve come to expect from The Point. Gamble General Store & Café, with its region can be found just beyond the telltale “whoosh” as whales blow. www.quiltedstrait.com second-floor shell museum, old-fashioned ferry terminal; at the western edge of All three main islands, have spring, 1-855-GOQUILT | [email protected]

The Point Casino candy shop, and café that serves hearty Fidalgo Island, on a 220-acre knob of summer and fall farmers markets, where 7989 Salish Ln. NE the artFul eWe Kingston, WA 98346 (360) 297-0070 EVENT CENTER www.the-point-casino.com land, Washington Park juts into Strait. EVENT CENTER EVENT CENTER sandwiches and burgers. truly local growers offer island produce. Spinning and Weaving The historic Port Gamble Theater, From the park’s lengthy shoreline there The most conspicuous events each sum- www.theartfulewe.com just re-opened this year, will present Anne are gorgeous views of the Rosario Strait mer are Fourth of July fireworks shows, olymPiC ProPerty GrouP the-point-casino.com 7989 Salish Lane NE of Green Gables and Shakespeare’s Twelfth and the Olympics. With a scenic loop again on all three main islands, in Friday Weddings, Events, Residential/Commercial Rentals 360.297.8074 1.866.547.6468 Kingston, WA 98346 Night, among other productions. Next door, drive through deep forest, as well as Harbor, Roche Harbor, Eastsound and www.portgambleweddings.com Close to Home... Far From Ordinary. in a fire-engine-red building,Olympic Out- campgrounds and day-use areas, the Lopez Village. Savor the San Juans, a fes- www.portgamble.com The PointE CasinoVENTE isVENT proudlyCENTER CENTER ownedE andVENT operated CENTERE byVENT The Port CENTER Gamble S’Klallam Tribe. door Center offers kayak rentals and tours. park is beloved by locals and visitors. tival devoted to local foods, crafts and art, Management reserves all rights to alter or cancel without prior notice. Must be at least 18 years old to participate in gaming activities and at least 21 years old to enter the lounge area. Knowing your limit is your best bet—get help at (800) 547-6133.

20 TPC-4276-14// WASHINGTON Washington STATE State FERRIES Ferries.indd MAGAZINE 1 4/25/12 9:09:25 AM WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 21 anacortes >> san juan islands www.anacortes.org takes place throughout October. Several The view of the San Juan Islands from the dozen adventure companies offer kayak- top of Mount Constitution is magnificent. ing, bicycling, sailing, diving and wildlife watching tours on each of the islands. Visit Anacortes All within walking distance in our vibrant Old Town you’ll find San Juan Island casual cafes, elegant dining, The most populous (pop: 7,000) of the fun to sophisticated shopping, cap sante inn anthOny’s at four major islands, San Juan is the county art galleries, antique shops and “The Best Value in Anacortes” and “Most cap sante bOat haven seat, and the most-frequently visited excellent accommodations. Fun”. Located in Historic Old Town across Lunch and dinner served daily with the street from the Marina, Restaurants, impressive views of the marina. Serving island in the archipelago. Ferries dock Planning a day trip or a vacation? Shops, & Galleries. Walk to Everything! fresh NW seafood from our own seafood in downtown Friday Harbor, the island’s 360.293.0602 • 906 9th St. company along with seasonal local Anacortes has something for produce. Enjoy the view from our covered main town, allowing foot passengers to www.capsanteinn.com everyone. Visit us at anacortes.org. patio with outdoor fireplace. easily wander the town. The picturesque 360-588-0333 • 1207 Q Avenue

Robert Demar MaJestic inn anD spa www.anthonys.com harbor is protected by Brown Island, and Discover a haven of elegance and charm. is ever bustling with the thrum of small- Things to Do One of the most beautiful and romantic boat traffic and floatplanes taking off or wildlife viewing and gourmet cuisine. grassland carpeted with wildflowers, hotels in the region. Inspired NW cuisine March and a luxurious spa to relax and rejuvenate seabear cOMpany stOre landing. A stroll along the Port of Friday Nearby, the Bluff restaurant at Fri- enjoying expansive views over the water Spring Boat Show the body and spirit. Stop by the SeaBear Company Store Harbor public docks brings you to small day Harbor House (130 West St.) was one to Vancouver Island and the Olympic Salmon Derby 360.299.1400 • 419 Commercial Ave. to shop for a wide variety of fresh and smoked salmon. Perfect to enjoy during seafood stands and past glistening yachts of the pioneers of Northwest contempo- Mountains. Hikers here often spy orcas www.majesticinnandspa.com a pril your trip to Anacortes, or to take back from near and far; harbor seals are a rary cuisine. Bakery San Juan (775 Mullis in Haro Strait. The park marks a unique Spring Wine Festival home to family and friends. We have SWinomiSh CASino & Lodge common sight. Adjacent to the ferry dock, St.) has been proffering treats, breads episode in 19th-century history when two Spring Antique Show recently expanded our store to include The Swinomish Casino & Lodge’s local artisan gifts featuring hand blown and pizzas to residents and visitors for great powers, the United States and Brit- Cannery Landing is a charming small May spectacularly appointed guest rooms glass ornaments, vases, bowls and shopping center with a popular ice-cream decades; and Kings Market (160 Spring ain, came to the brink of war but chose to TrawlerFest include suites, kings, and double queens- all birdbaths from Made in Washington Stores capturing the breathtaking views of Padilla store, a bookstore, locally roasted coffee, St. W) stocks marine gear, clothing and mediate their differences in peace. (our sister company). Plus, we offer a June Bay, the Swinomish Channel, the San wide assortment of artisan food, coffee, island wine store, clothing boutique and supplies in addition to food. Waterworks The two park units are 13 miles Waterfront Festival Juan Islands, Mount Baker, and the Coast tea and Washington wines to complete craft galleries. Gallery (315 Argyle St.) focuses exclu- apart; roughly halfway between, Lime Farmers Market (Saturdays Mountains of British Columbia. Make your your gourmet picnic basket. reservations today! The rest of Friday Harbor climbs sively on Northwest artists, with an em- Kiln State Park overlooks Haro Strait and through October) 360.230.1082 • 605 30th Street 1.855.794.6563 www.seabear.com the hill above the water, consisting of phasis on island sculptors and painters. is an oft-used vantage point to watch for July www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com The rest of San Juan Island is a visi- whales. Not far from Lime Kiln, Pelindaba 4th of July Parade colorful streets lined with small shops, Mystic sea charters inns, hostels and cafes. Just up the hill tor’s delight, whether touring by car or Lavender (33 Hawthorne Lane) offers & Celebration gere-a-Deli Come aboard the Mystic Sea to see the Award winning deli and catering company, from the ferry dock, the Whale Museum bike. San Juan Island National Historical soaps, candles, oils and innumerable Shipwreck Day whales, the wildlife and the San Juan Free Summer Concert Series located in downtown Anacortes in an old Islands! Whale Watch Cruises depart (62 First St. N) is devoted to fostering Park preserves two lovely but different other products—including ice cream— bank building. Fabulous deli sandwiches (through August) Anacortes daily at 11am April-September. appreciation and understanding of the landscapes: English Camp, at the north made from the aromatic herb. and salads, homemade clam chowder and The Mystic Sea is a 100 ft coast guard a ugust an in-house bakery. Home of the Fidalgo cetaceans that inhabit the waters nearby, end of the island, is a sylvan dale on a At the northwest end of the island, certified vessel offering heated cabins, Anacortes Arts Festival Cookie and Bumble Berry Cobbler. Feeding onboard food service, excellent inside and small cove holding tidy gardens, broad Roche Harbor (www.rocheharbor.com) Anacortes since 1981. focusing on, but not limited to, orcas. Workboat Races outside viewing, and we are wheelchair Adventure-seekers who would rather green lawns and what may be the largest is a historic port and resort; from here, 360.293.7383 • 502 Commercial Ave. accessible. Times and locations vary. s epteM ber www.gere-a-deli.com see the real thing can take multi-day bigleaf maple in the Northwest. Ameri- limestone was shipped throughout the Reservations recommended. Discounts for Taste Anacortes seniors, military, AAA. Guaranteed whale can Camp, a much larger preserve (1,220 Northwest in the 19th century. The resort’s kayak trips with Friday Harbor’s Outdoor Fall Boat Show sher-e-panJab sightings! Odysseys (www.outdoorodysseys.com), a acres) is one of the last bastions of native historic Hotel de Haro was a favorite of Oyster Run Sher-e-Panjab means “The Lion of 1.800.308.9387 • 710 Seafarers Way www.mysticseacharters.com kayak touring company that’s notable for Puget Sound prairie, a lovely, rolling-hill John Wayne, who sailed these waters each Fall Antique Show Panjab”. The Panjabis are known for their great cuisine–Chef Gill and his family serve summer; the Roche Harbor docks often OctO ber up delicious, authentic Indian food and the Juicy DOg host multi-million-dollar yachts from Oktoberfest warm service in Anacortes. We have something for everyone– fresh around the world. The nearby Westcott 360.588.4793 • 2120 Commercial Ave. squeezed juices and smoothies, extra- DeceM ber www.anacortessherepanjab.com Bay Sculpture Park has more than 100 ordinary sausages, the best cheesesteak on Holiday Parade the west coast, and homemade ice cream. pieces of art, including some clever wind- Lighted Boat Parade le creMa caKes Local food, created by local people using operated sculptures, strategically placed Be pampered in our elegant coffee house local ingredients. We make everything in lightly wooded grasslands around a and pastry bakery... An unforgettable, rich with love and it shows! and deliciously sweet experience! Enjoy a 360.840.3041 • 408 Commercial Ave. small pond. Fresh Baked Cookies variety of daily baked items, breakfast, soup www.thejuicydogrevolution.com Every Night Oyster fanciers like to stop by West- of the day, and of course, velvety smooth cott Bay Sea Farms (904 Westcott Dr.) to Illy espresso. Visit us in the evenings for a 3300 Commercial Ave. liquored espresso or champagne cocktail! buy a dozen or two fresh oysters; close by, Voted Best Bakery and Best Coffee of 2012! Anacortes, WA 98221 Westcott Bay Cider (12 Anderson Lane) (360) 299-CAKe Phone / Fax: 360-293-1100 produces European-style ciders from 913 6th Street • next to the post office [email protected] www.lecremacakes.com www.marinainnwa.com heritage apple orchards.

22 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 23 anacortes >> san juan islands

lined with shops, cafes, the 1898 Shaw General Store, with original With miles of country lanes and lovely beaches, the San Juan Lopez Island island fir floors, is at the heart of the com- Islands are popular for bicycle touring. inns and galleries. In Eastsound, a tidy village A favorite among bicycle travelers and munity; the Silver Water Cafe recently eminently suitable for kayakers, Lopez is a largely rural island opened inside. walking, local institutions that’s flatter than San Juan or Orcas. Long include Wild Flower Bak- country lanes here offer uncrowded riding for visitors; most lodgings have bikes for Sidney, B.C. ery (29 Beach Rd.), famed guests to use if you don’t bring your own. The Washington State Ferries terminal for muffins, cinnamon The ferry berths at a small north-end on Vancouver Island is the gateway for rolls, and sandwiches wharf famed for its leave-one, take-one visitors to our neighboring land, most of made with hearty breads; book collection in its waiting room, and the whom head on to Victoria, 20 miles south. Allium Restaurant (310 E colorful geranium pots along the ramp. As However, Sidney has its own merits as a San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau Main St.), where contem- 28,00028,000 on Orcas, the island’s main town, Lopez destination. Its full name is Sidney-by-the- porary cuisine celebrity Village, lies several miles away along a se- Sea, and its British beachside resort flavor chef Lisa Nakamura focuses on island ries of traffic-free county roads. Two parks is enhanced by the fact it also represents surcharge-free foods; and the Outlook Inn (171 Main St.), surcharge-free Orcas Island at the north end draw many visitors: Odlin another uniquely British institution, a small boutique lodging whose restau- a “booktown”—the only such place in The largest of the San Juan Islands, Orcas County Park and Spencer Spit State Park. rant, New Leaf, is a highly rated practitio- Canada. The main street, Beacon Avenue, is a 57-square-mile horseshoe splayed Both offer camping, long sandy beaches, ner of Northwest Contemporary cuisine, is lined with bookshops ranging from wide at the north end of the archipelago. wetland preserves and easy hikes through and famed for its breakfast French toast general interest to stores specializing in Like all the islands, it consists of hill and native forests. and eggs Benedict. military, children’s and vintage titles. woods, farm fields and rocky shores, Lopez Village largely occupies just two Farther around the island, historic Also on Beacon Avenue is a popular with sandy beaches interspersed amid streets, and overlooks a completely pro- Rosario Resort (www.rosarioresort.com) breakfast bistro, Third Street Café (2466 headlands. While the ferry docks at a tiny tected harbor, Fisherman Bay, that’s perfect occupies its own small harbor on East- Beacon Ave.), locally famous for a menu hamlet called Orcas on maps, the island’s for kayaking. In the village, the Bay Café sound. Past that is the most conspicuous that features eight different preparations ATMs main town, Eastsound, lies at the top end (9 Old Post Rd.) is a nationally renowned ATMs attraction on Orcas, Moran State Park, of eggs Benedict. At the end of Beacon of the long inlet that bisects the island. purveyor of Northwest cuisine, focusing on which climbs 2,409-foot Mount Constitu- Avenue, housed in a complex that includes The road from the ferry landing to seafood; and Holly B’s Bakery (165 Cherry the Sidney Pier Hotel, is the Shaw Ocean Eastsound takes visitors past a small tion, the highest point in the San Juans. Tree Lane) may be the best-known pur- Discovery Centre (9811 Seaport Pl.). This that’s co-op banking community at Deer Harbor (a cove along The road to the top challenges energetic veyor of cinnamon rolls in the state. compact, but very engaging, aquarium the colorfully named Massacre Bay), with bike riders, as do woodland trails leading The rest of the island is a very focuses exclusively on the marine life of a small inn, restaurant and marina. As to the summit; from here, views of Mount peaceful pastiche of farm fields grazed the Salish Sea and Northwest Coast, and you approach the main town, you’ll find Baker, the Coast Range in Canada, the by sheep, copses of trees marking tiny illustrates in its exhibit tanks just how col- Crow Valley Pottery (2274 Orcas Rd.), for Vancouver Island ranges and the Olympic hillocks, and pebbly coves along the orful and rich the life is within the waters 48 years one of the Northwest’s premier Mountains are simply breathtaking. shoreline. The late April Tour de Lopez we sail. outlets for clay, porcelain and ceramic At the far eastern end of the island, (April 28) draws hundreds of bicycle riders The nearby Sidney Pier is the depar- goods by local artists. Doe Bay Resort & Retreat (107 Doe Bay to the island. Aside from that, and the ture point for day-tour boats heading out Like Friday Harbor, Eastsound Rd., Olga) is a legendary counterculture Fourth of July festivities, not a whole lot to Sidney Spit, one unit of Canada’s new overlooks a protected harbor, Fishing Bay, haven famed for its relaxed atmosphere, happens on Lopez—exactly as its resi- Gulf Islands National Park Reserve. The from its vantage between two points. It economical small cabins and yurts, and dents and visitors like it. spit is a long stretch of white sand at the too, is a small collection of quiet streets soaking tubs. north end of a small island, a mile offshore Shaw Island Sidney. The park’s main vehicle camp- The smallest island (7.7 square miles) ground, McDonald, is just north of Sidney FRIDAY HARBOR ONLY 2 BLOCKS FROM THE FERRY & PORT served by Washington State Ferries, Shaw proper. is the home of a monastery, Our Lady of One of the world’s best-known tour- the Rock, operated by Benedictine nuns. ist attractions, Butchart Gardens (www. Guests are welcome for day visits and butchartgardens.com), is just 20 minutes overnight spiritual retreats. Elsewhere on from the dock in Sidney, on the other side the island, several public preserves are of Saanich Peninsula, past Victoria Interna- open for day use only, and a popular camp- tional Airport. This 55-acre preserve was Easy walking distance for paid Parking, Heated Storage & Shopping: ground, Shaw County Park, has waterfront carved from a former quarry by Jennie smcu.com/atms Pet & Craft Supplies, Bikes, Repair‐Rental, Web Design, Catering, and wooded campsites, a long sandy beach Butchart in the early 20th century, and its Cakes,Pasta, Hair, Tattoo, Stoves, Tile, Public Radio, Marine Repair. and a boat launch. lavish gardens now draw almost 1 million Access via trails from Web and “A” Street & vehicle entrance at : On the waterfront at the ferry landing, visitors a year. 50 Malcom Street 378‐4555 surinabusinesspark.com

24 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 25 mukilteo >> clinton mukilteo >> clinton

and pioneering farmers grew wheat, This Mukilteo route is among the busiest in the system, carrying more than 4 million oats, barley and fruit, and raised sheep. passengers annually between Mukilteo, on the mainland just south of Everett, and Clinton, These days, farming is again in fashion, on south Whidbey Island. The crossing takes approximately 20 minutes. and farmers markets across the island attract shoppers, while farm stands piled The Shortest Distance to Far Away ® high with seasonal produce decorate farm gates along country byways. The island today is mostly rural, with small Visitor Information communities dotted across the landscape Sherrye Wyatt Centers: and several quaint towns. Clinton Beach Park offers plenty of space for kids For in-person help and detailed information, to burn off energy. call or stop by one of the many visitor centers located throughout the islands. restaurant—the Inn at Langley (400 First Clinton St.)—offer sustenance after shopping. Greater Oak Harbor Chamber of Commerce Future of Flight Aviation Center of Flight Aviation Future Callahan’s Firehouse Studio & Whidbey Island’s Clinton Ferry Terminal, 32630 SR 20 Gallery (179 Second St.), inside the town’s Future of Flight Aviation Center at the southeastern edge of the island, Oak Harbor, WA 98277 The Future of Flight Aviation Center is at the bottom of a forested old firehouse, offers visitors OakHarborChamber.com (360) 675-3535 (www.futureofflight.org), on State Route hill. There is no development the opportunity to create 526 en route to Mukilteo, is the only at the terminal—the town’s Cash store their own colorful glass art; Central Whidbey commercial jet assembly plant in North cachet tiny commercial district is Museo (215 First St.) is a Chamber of America open to touring. Visitors here can It may be just a bend in Commerce located atop the hill, several contemporary fine-art gallery design their own aircraft; the Airplane the road, but historic 905 NW Alexander Street that specializes in whimsy, Design Zone explains the technology and blocks away, although a stand, Bayview Corner, just off Coupeville, WA 98239 design innovations of powered flight, Shirley’s, offers quick bites SR 525 5 miles north of and Whidbey Art Gallery CentralWhidbeyChamber.com and visitors can build their fantasy jets (360) 678-5434 and picnic fare, including Clinton, is filled with (220 Second St.) is an artists’ onscreen before modifying, testing and Kitsap Tours character. The landmark cooperative with works that printing out the final schematic. The hamburgers, perfect for Greater Freeland Mukilteo Lighthouse Bayview Cash Store Chamber of tour concludes with a visit to the world’s picnics at Clinton Beach Park, reflect the island’s serene building, in danger of Commerce largest building to watch Boeing jets such landscapes and seascapes. a pocket beach adjacent to the being demolished in 1999, 5575 Harbor Avenue, #101 St.) serves up pub fare, pizzas and as the 747 and 787 being assembled. terminal. Pickles Deli (11042 was rescued by a group Long before all the Freeland, WA 98249 Mukilteo sandwiches to accompany their own SR 525), with a lengthier of philanthropists. Today galleries, the town’s historic Freeland-WA.org the lovingly restored (360) 331-1980 brews and guest taps. menu, including Panini, wraps Star Store (201 First St.) On Possession Sound 26 miles north complex brims with was at the heart of the Beyond the park and cafes, State Viewing gray whales off the bluffs of Langley and salads, is a three-minute shops, an art gallery and Langley Chamber of Seattle, Mukilteo stair-steps of Commerce Route 525, also called the Mukilteo is a highlight of springtime Whidbey Island drive the ferry dock. coffee shop, the Taste for community; today it offers down a wooded, west-facing hillside Kayaking Company paddling excursions. 208 Anthes Avenue Wine sampling room, the contemporary fashions, Speedway, cuts uphill from the ferry While Clinton is a tiny Langley, WA 98260 overlooking Whidbey Island, with the Basil Cafe and a nursery. dock. Several blocks up from the water, hamlet (pop: 928) with goods kitchenware and knick- VisitLangley.com Mukilteo Ferry Terminal at the foot of A farmers market is held (360) 221-6765 past the railroad tracks, a small retail and services oriented mostly knacks on one side, gourmet the hill. Originally the place where the here Saturdays, May sector draws visitors to shops, diners toward locals, the town has a groceries on the other. For Snohomish Tribe spent their winters, through October. Clinton Chamber and the Mukilteo Chocolate Company destination garden that’s well chocolate lovers and kids in of Commerce Mukilteo later was the setting for a (407 Lincoln Ave.), which makes worth a visit. Cultus Bay Nursery (7568 need of sweets, Sweet Mona’s Anchor Books & Coffee lumber mill and the state’s first salmon 9289 Highway 525, homestyle fudge. Whidbey Island Kayaking Company Cultus Bay Rd.), 5 miles south, is beloved (138 Second St.) makes buttery, dark- cannery. Clinton, WA 98236 by garden enthusiasts; pathways here chocolate caramels, crave-worthy truffles ClintonChamberofCommerce.org Front Street forms a short spur (360) 341-3929 is ideally situated in the rain shadow of weave through lush foliage, and intimate and creamy fudge. just south of the ferry terminal, with the Olympics, so islanders enjoy more settings are surrounded by vibrant flower Langley is a fun destination year- Camano Island Lighthouse Park at the end of the Whidbey sunshine than nearly any other Western borders. round, but it’s especially so in spring, Chamber of street. The picturesque 1906 Mukilteo Washington locale. when gray whales visit the shoals off Commerce Lighthouse, still in operation today SR 532 & North Camano Dr. Island Whidbey Island was long occupied the town’s bluffs; you can spot them Camano Island, WA 98282 and on the National Register of The largest island in Puget Sound, at by several groups of Coast Salish from the town’s scenic overlook or, CamanoIsland.org Historic Places, is the focal point of the 45 miles long and 10 miles across at its people. Living along the shoreline in Up-Island even better, slip into a kayak for a day (360) 629-7136 community; the Mukilteo Historical widest, Whidbey Island may be only 29 longhouses, they feasted on shellfish Six miles north of the ferry dock, tour with Whidbey Island Kayaking Society offers tours on weekend miles from Seattle, but it feels a world from the rich tidelands and berries from Langley is a welcoming bluff-top tourist Company (www.whidbeyislandkayaking. afternoons, April through September. away, with gorgeous sand beaches the island’s meadows. When Captain destination overlooking Saratoga Passage. com), which also offers bike tours. Every Between the park and the ferry facing sparkling Admiralty Inlet to George Vancouver sailed into Admiralty The arts are a part of everyday life here; summer Langley sets aside its laidback terminal, Ivar’s Mukilteo Landing—a the west; small towns filled with Inlet in the summer of 1792, he named boutiques and galleries jostle side by nature during the vibrant Choochokam historic local company—sells thick-cut shops and cafes; five exceptional view the island after the master of the HMS side with a gem of a small art museum, Arts Festival (July 7-8), with nonstop fish-and-chips. Opposite, theDiamond parks; and many recreational options. Discovery. Over the following decades, sea and wine bars, cafes and a destination concerts, an arts-and-crafts show and a luxury inn with a nationally renowned Knot Brewing Company (621 Front Beyond its scenic splendors, the island captains settled central Whidbey Island, lively street dance. WhidbeyCamanoIslands.com

26 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 27 mukilteo >> clinton port townsend>>coupeville

North of Freeland, the island’s retail The Coupeville Ferry Terminal (see previous page), from which passengers travel to and from Port and financial center,South Whidbey Island State Park has awe-inspiring Townsend (it’s a 35-minute crossing), is 8 miles south of the town of Coupeville, and 24 miles views of Puget Sound and the Olympics from the Clinton Ferry Terminal, at the south end of the island. The terminal is flanked by the from more than a mile of shoreline; driftwood-jumbled beaches of Fort Casey State Park across Admiralty Inlet from Port Townsend. visitors can harvest crab and clams here, and camp in a verdant forest. The bright red barn of Greenbank Visitors to Ebey’s Farm (SR 525 at Smuggler’s Cove Rd.) Landing National Historical Reserve Port stands out against green farm fields enjoy scenic walks at the narrowest point of the island. through working farms and along Founded as a sheep farm in 1906 by Townsend windswept coastal Calvin Philips, the farm was a microcosm bluffs. One of the state’s most-visited tourist of island life, with some 50 laborers destinations, the beautiful, historic working on the farm at its zenith. By town of Port Townsend has it all: block the mid-20th century the farm was a after block of galleries and boutiques in regionally famous loganberry farm vintage brick buildings; fanciful Victorian whose fruit was used in wines made by M. Denis Hill architecture; some of the best local-foods the predecessor of the renowned Chateau restaurants on the Olympic Peninsula; a Ste. Michelle. of the ferry terminal, was built as a is known for its antiques shops and thriving maritime culture with boating Today, the farm, owned by the coastal defense during WWII. This is a boutiques. opportunities just steps from the Nature Conservancy, has nature paths, grand, windswept place with more than Oak Harbor (pop: 22,000), the commercial district; and a historic fort two art galleries, the Greenbank Wine 2 miles of sand beaches and phenomenal largest town on Whidbey, has a historic with a lighthouse and spectacular beach, Shop, the Greenbank Cheese Shop and views overlooking Admiralty Inlet downtown and waterfront parks; it’s nearby. All this, and the town has some of the rustic Whidbey Pies Café, which and the Olympics. There are also gun primarily a commercial center for nearby the most stunning water views anywhere, features local-foods meals and lightly emplacements and upland trails for Naval Air Station Whidbey Island. with Puget Sound in the foreground and Leslie Forsberg sweetened loganberry pie that’s well exploring the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Nine At the northern tip of the island, the the snow-tipped Cascade Range to the The Romanesque Jefferson County Courthouse, in Port Townsend, is one of the town’s most dramatic historic structures. worth the stop, alone. miles north of Fort Casey, at the northern spectacular 1935 Deception Pass Bridge east, glaciated Mount Baker to the north. Nearby, the Meerkerk edge of the reserve, Fort Ebey State Park conveys travelers across the churning Access to Port Townsend from the Historic Places, and it’s still divided into most popular attractions. Just north of Rhododendron Gardens (SR 525 and features similar views, more than 3 miles maelstrom between Whidbey Island and mainland is easy via Washington State the lower commercial district and upper downtown (within walking distance via Resort Road) is a 53-acre wonderland of of saltwater shoreline, a freshwater Fidalgo Island; the tidal rapids here can Ferries, from Mukilteo to Clinton at residential area, connected by a staircase a blufftop trail, but more easily reached peaceful woodland gardens with more lake for fishing, and a web of hiking and flow as fast as 9.5 miles per hour. For the southern edge of Whidbey Island, on Taylor Street. by car), this assemblage of 20th century than 5 miles of trails. biking trails; it’s also the setting for the those without vertigo, it’s well worth a and then from Central Whidbey’s The Visitors Bureau (440 Twelfth officers’ homes, barracks and bunkers On Admiralty Inlet on the west Admiralty Head Lighthouse. stop to park and walk across the bridge. Coupeville ferry terminal to downtown St.), a 3-minute drive south of the ferry is centered on an expansive parade side of the island, the ferry to Port The town of Coupeville, on Penn Deception Pass State Park is a 4,134- Port Townsend. When rolling off the Port dock, offers a walking map of Port ground. At the base of the bluff, the Port Townsend docks at the Coupeville Ferry Cove on the eastern shore of the island, acre park with 77,000 feet of saltwater Townsend ferry dock, turn right to reach Townsend’s Victorian architecture. Townsend Marine Science Center thrills Terminal, which is situated within Ebey’s is at the heart of the reserve. The town’s shoreline, including sand dunes, as well downtown. Rather than just looking, you can choose kids with touch tanks, and a broad sweep Landing Historical Reserve. The reserve Front Street looks much like it did in the as forested campgrounds and three lakes. Once known for its safe harbor and to stay in a restored Victorian, complete of beach with the picturesque Point encompasses more than 17,000 acres of early 20th century, and with more than Trails here pass through stands of old- bountiful forests that went into lumber with period furnishings. The Bishop Wilson Lighthouse positioned at the far working rural landscape, two state parks 50 buildings on the National Register of growth forest and yield exciting views of products secured aboard clipper ships, Victorian Hotel (714 Washington St.) end is one of the best picnicking, sand- and miles of shoreline. Historic Places, the town is a draw for the cliff-edged waters. the town was the headquarters for the has suites with kitchenettes (some with play and beachcombing places in the Fort Casey State Park, just north visitors and moviemakers. Coupeville Puget Sound Customs District in the 19th fireplaces);The Palace Hotel (1004 Water state. Thrifty travelers pitch tents or park century; all ships had to stop here on St.) is a bit more rustic, with no phones— their campers in the campground here. their way into Puget Sound. Bustling with but tall windows overlook the town. If you’d rather get out on the water Whidbey Wineries sailors and merchants, the town was Spoiled Dog Winery, near Langley, welcomes visitors Several museums illuminate Port than admire it, you can hop aboard a to their vineyards and tasting room. Eight wineries call Whidbey home. While many craft their wines from grapes grown in sunny every bit a part of the Wild West, where Townsend’s colorful history, including kayak at PT Outdoors, situated at the Eastern Washington, several produce estate wines from grapes grown in the island’s loamy, unsuspecting victims were kidnapped sun-warmed soil. As momentum builds for the island’s wine industry, wineries are bringing home the Rothschild House Historic Museum base of the bluff in Fort Worden and in and smuggled through tunnels to waiting awards from competitions. (corner of Taylor and Franklin streets, town at 1017 Water Street; the company ships, where they became indentured Wineries with onsite tasting rooms include: Comforts of Whidbey, Greenbank Cellars, Holmes upper PT); the Jefferson County offers kayak and stand-up paddle-board Harbor Cellars, Spoiled Dog Winery and Whidbey Island Winery. The Blooms winery tasting servants. The town’s upstanding citizens Historical Museum (450 Water St.) and rentals, and guided kayak tours of the room is at the Historic Bayview Cash Store, at Bayview Corner, north of Clinton, and Ott & chose homes on the high bluff above the Commanding Officer’s Quarters, in wildlife-rich bay, where you’re likely to Murphy has a tasting room in downtown Langley. Useless Bay Wines are sold at the Greenbank the town, building their gingerbread-like Farm Wine Shop and other locations. nearby Fort Worden State Park. see seals, porpoises and bald eagles. Victorians overlooking the riff-raff. The Whidbey Island wine-makers band together for the Savor Spring event every May and Autumn Fort Worden is another of the town’s The waters that lap at the region’s Crush event in November. Listings of wineries can be found at www.whidbeycamanoislands.com. town today is on the National Register of Sherrye Wyatt

28 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 29 port townsend>>coupeville fauntleroy >> vashon >> southworth

Eight miles south of downtown Seattle, beyond the broad span of the West Seattle Bridge, Festival Fun ferries to and from West Seattle and Southworth dock at the Fauntleroy ferry terminal. It’s a Port Townsend and nearby Fort Worden 20-minute crossing to Vashon, and 40 minutes to Southworth. State Park draw throngs of visitors to festivals throughout the year, including: Mar. 23-25 Victorian Heritage Festival May 14-19 Fauntleroy Rhododendron Festival The Fauntleroy ferry dock is largely July 1-8 surrounded by residential neighborhoods. Festival of American Fiddle Tunes Abutting the ferry dock to the north, July 22-29 heavily forested Lincoln Park, one of Jazz Port Townsend Seattle’s most overlooked preserves and July 29–Aug. 5 one of the city’s largest parks, has a lovely Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival seaside promenade that affords great Sept. 7-9 views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Wooden Boat Festival Peninsula. The park’s unique Colman Sept. 21-23 Pool is one of the few public saltwater Port Townsend Film Festival swimming pools on the West Coast. A small neighborhood services center

Christina Pivarnik NW Maritime Center Cider Renaissance up the hill from the ferry dock holds Left: With scores of local boutiques and galleries, Farms and cideries in the Port Townsend a couple of restaurants popular with Port Townsend is one of the Northwest’s best region are leading a national cider regular Fauntleroy travelers. Guadalajara shopping destinations. antique Native art. Other galleries carry renaissance. A European tradition steeped (9214 45th Ave. SW) serves traditional everything from fine-art paintings to in history, hard cider is made from tart Right: The Northwest Maritime Center offers visitors apples that yield robust beverages (2 to Mexican-American cuisine; and The a chance to learn about the Northwest’s maritime jewelry made from sea glass. The town’s 8 percent alcohol) similar to craft ales. Original Bakery (9253 45th Ave. SW) is heritage. First Saturday Art Walk is a convivial Finnriver Farm and Cidery (www.finnriver.

a popular stop for bike riders fueling up Seattle Parks and Recreation event. com), a family farm, produces an organic on fresh doughnuts and Danish pastries Possibly because PT is such a kid- Artisan Sparkling Cider and a Sparkling Adjacent to the Fauntleroy ferry dock, Lincoln Park has a lovely seaside promenade. beaches have long been a center of before heading over to the island. friendly place, the town has no fewer Pear Cider; visitors can participate in commerce and a playground for the than three soda fountains. They include cider-tasting in their rustic barn in nearby region. Wooden boat enthusiasts Chimacum Valley. Alpenfire Cider(www. Vashon in the early 20th century when Elevated Ice Cream (631 Water St.), make pilgrimages to Port Townsend to alpenfire.com) uses intensely flavored the Army Corps of Engineers filled in known for their rich, homemade ice English, French and heritage apples to Vashon participate in classes at the beautiful cream; Nifty Fifties Soda Fountain (817 create their all-organic cider, which can be a small slough between the two then- new Northwest Maritime Center Water St.), with thick, flavorful shakes tasted at their farm. And Eaglemount Wine separate islands. (431 Water St.), the focal point for the & Cider (www.eaglemountwinery.com) Island and tabletop jukeboxes; and the old-time The island famously has just one Wooden Boat Festival (Sep. 7-9), which makes cider from heirloom apples grown Occupying much of the area between fast-food restaurant, and no traffic Don’s Pharmacy (1151 Water St.), serving in an original homestead orchard; you can draws admirers from across the nation. Seattle and Tacoma in the middle of lights; an attempt by county officials to up malts and sundaes at a classic long sip and sample their ciders—and wines—at The center also has a cozy café inside a Puget Sound, Vashon Island largely counter with swivel stools. their onsite tasting room. install a light in the middle of the main chandlery for boaters and landlubbers. escapes the attention afforded other town, Vashon, met almost universal The adjacent Swan Hotel (216 destinations in the Washington State opposition and was abandoned. It Monroe St.) has a fresh, beachy appeal, Ferries route system. The largest remains, as it has been for 150 years, a with deluxe cottages with Adirondack island in south Puget Sound, Vashon quiet place with country lanes winding encompasses 37 square miles—an area chairs positioned to take in the sun. Loaves of Love across the rural landscape, popular Northwest shoppers appreciate Port A narrow slice of a bakery with a bright-red door in upper bigger than Manhattan, but with just with bicycle riders, and kayakers who Townsend’s mix of charming boutiques Port Townsend, Pane d’Amore (617 Tyler St.), has developed over 10,000 residents. Composed almost enjoy the calm waters of Quartermaster a reputation far beyond the city limits. The bakery’s in vintage buildings on two streets that entirely of farms, fields, forests and small Harbor, the mid-island inlet. European-style, all-organic breads are star attractions parallel the waterfront. Many of the residential acreages, with one town and in the best Olympic Peninsula restaurants. The bakery Numerous small B&Bs house island Susan Stinson more-than-a-dozen galleries feature spares no effort to craft high-quality baked goods: One of scattered communities, the island is a visitors, few of them larger than two or Point Robinson Lighthouse, on Vashon Island. local art, but among the leading places to their rustic loaves is made with a heritage strain of wheat pastoral retreat, most of whose residents three rooms. Visitors flock to the island grown within the city limits. Their finely crafted, artisan find Northwest art are two cooperatives: commute to work in Seattle or Tacoma. in late July for the island’s Strawberry pastries come in many varieties—from classic cinnamon Port Townsend Gallery (715 Water Geographically, the island is rolls and croissants to elegant creations such as canneles, Festival, a three-day celebration with St.) and Gallery Nine (1012 Water St.). a cylindrical French pastry with a custard filling and composed of what were once two music, food booths, craft and art displays, Ancestral Spirits Gallery (701 Water caramelized crust. separate islands. The southeastern and a unique parade with antique St.) is a showcase for contemporary and portion, Maury Island, was joined to tractors and the legendary Island

30 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 31 fauntleroy >> vashon >> southworth tahlequah >> point defiance

Thriftway grocery-cart drill team. The one town of any size, Vashon, is in the middle of the island, 6 miles south of the north-end ferry landing. Though the island’s old strawberry farmers and orchardists are long gone, they have been replaced by a new generation of organic farmers pursuing sustainable agriculture, most of them members of the Vashon Island Growers Association. Hence, you’ll find farm stands with everything from cheese and eggs to berries and produce lining the island’s pastoral lanes. One of the island’s most dynamic

farms, Sea Breeze, has a combination Russell Johnson/ courtesy Museum of Glass butcher shop and restaurant, La Tacoma’s striking Museum of Glass features a Hot Shop glass-blowing Boucherie (17635 100th Ave. SW), studio. in downtown Vashon where nearly Tacoma MetroParks The Japanese Garden is just one of eight magnificent theme gardens at Tacoma’s Point Defiance. everything on the menu, including City of Destiny Once the most prosperous and braised lamb and sausage, was grown on Susie Atherton largest city on Puget Sound, Ferries at the Tahlequah terminal, at the southern tip of the island. More island products, ranging Vashon Island’s quiet, secluded beaches are ideal for picnicking and beachcombing. Tacoma’s history is highlighted by from salad greens to heritage fruits, are the 1900 founding of Weyerhaeuser Vashon, connect with Point Defiance, near Tacoma. The available on Saturdays, April-October, contemporary cuisine emphasizing Corporation, when Frederick crossing takes 15 minutes. at the Vashon Farmers Market, at the island-grown ingredients. Burton Acres Weyerhaeuser bought hundreds of thousands of acres of Northwest Village Green, in the center of the town. Park is one of two launching points timberland by signing what (17506 Vashon Highway Bob’s Bakery for kayakers enjoying the inlet’s quiet was then the largest check ever Point Defiance/Ruston SW) is a local institution famed for waters; you can rent kayaks April through written—$1 million. Tacomans enjoy cinnamon rolls and scones, and lunch September at the Vashon Kayak Center, the city’s quiet, historic residential Though it connects Vashon Island with park attractions, including a Botanical neighborhoods, and frequent views pies resembling British pasties that are located at the nearby Jensen Point Park. Tacoma, the Point Defiance ferry dock Gardens complex whose dahlia beds of nearby Mount Rainier—which popular with bicycle tourists. Across the is actually in the small town of Ruston, are among the most extensive in North Quartermaster Harbor is one of the few residents say is “their” mountain, not intersection, the Vashon Hardware Store places in Puget Sound where the waters Seattle’s. The Tacoma Dome, one of once the home of a large smelting America. The park’s annual Christmas restaurant and gallery (17601 Vashon are warm enough for pleasant swimming the world’s largest wooden domed plant whose grounds are lights display in December Highway SW) occupies a 121-year-old in July and August. arenas, hosts numerous concerts and now being converted to is one of Washington State’s athletic events. building whose ancient fir-plank floors are The side road to Maury Island, parks and multiple-use largest. lumpytrout still redolent from more than a century of SW Quartermaster Drive, passes over Though Seattle eventually outgrew development. Just up the Point Defiance Zoo & the “City of Destiny,” it remains a the building’s use as a hardware supply Portage, the erstwhile tidal slough that hill from the dock, the Aquarium (5400 N. Pearl) is a shipping and forest-products center compact zoological institution store; the menu is an eclectic mix of was filled in to join Maury to Vashon that has carved out a new, 21st Antique Sandwich Shop Point Defiance Zoo comfort foods. Island. On Dockton Road Southwest, Southworth century identity with its downtown (5102 N. Pearl St.) is a known for its polar bears, sea Museum District. Farther down the main highway, the hamlet of Dockton was once a late The western terminus of the Fauntleroy long-time popular lunch spot for ferry otters, walrus, puffins and other north th the Bicycle in a Tree (20312 Vashon 19 -century boomtown, with a shipyard ferry route is the gateway to the Kitsap Here, within blocks of each other travelers, best-known for its black bean Pacific denizens. The zoo also has rare red Highway SW) is an island icon, an old bike and the largest dry dock on the West Peninsula and Port Orchard, one of the along Pacific Avenue, are the burritos. Across the street, the Jungle wolves in a natural outdoor environment supposedly hung in a tree crotch years Coast, as well as two hotels and Piano Museum of Glass (1801 Dock St.) Fever Exotics (5050 N. Pearl) nursery and clouded leopards; two leopard cubs oldest towns on the west side of the and the Tacoma Art Museum (1701 ago by a kid, now mostly overgrown by Row—a series of houses where the ship offers palms and other tropical plants are new additions this year. sound, incorporated in 1890. Its historic Pacific Ave.), both featuring works the tree. (Actually, it was placed there as workers’ foremen lived (the only ones downtown, located along Bay Street, by Tacoma native Dale Chihuly; many people are unaware can be grown Farther along Five Mile Drive, Fort a joke by an island prankster.) Nearby, with enough income to own pianos). is known for small craft galleries and the Washington State History in Puget Sound. Nisqually is a reconstruction of a historic Museum (1911 Pacific Ave.); and the Vashon Island Coffee Roasterie Today little is left of this legacy, though antiques stores. Each May, hundreds Owen Beach, adjacent to the ferry frontier outpost where living history historic Union Station (1717 Pacific (19529 Vashon Highway SW) is one of the houses still stand. landing, is a long stretch of log-strewn enactors portray pioneer settlers, soldiers flock to the waterfront for a one-of-a- Ave.), a beautifully restored 1911 the Seattle area’s earliest gourmet coffee sand popular for beachcombing. It’s and other early Northwest inhabitants. At the end of Point Robinson kind event, the annual Seagull Calling masterpiece of Beaux Arts design, roasters, which roasts, brews and sells rare Road, heading east on Maury, the Point Festival; yes, it is exactly what the name featuring a huge, copper-domed part of 702-acre Point Defiance Park, Several miles south of Point Defiance, heirloom coffees from around the world. Robinson Lighthouse, one of the most implies. A passenger ferry links Port rotunda. The building now houses which occupies the northwest end of its Chambers Bay Golf Course (www. Farther south, at the tiny village photographed in the Northwest, occupies federal courts. Across the street, namesake peninsula, and holds one of chambersbaygolf.com) is a high-profile, Orchard to Bremerton, across the way. shops, cafes and galleries reflect the of Burton, Quartermaster Inn (24007 a sandy beach whose view of Mount the largest remaining old-growth forests newer, links-style course hosting several resurgence of downtown Tacoma. Vashon Highway SW) serves Northwest Rainier is one of the finest in the region. in lowland Puget Sound. Five Mile Drive prominent tournaments over the next winds through the park woods and couple of years.

32 // WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES MAGAZINE // 33 Ivars.comIvars.com

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