Issue No. 225 Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 ORDER DELIVERY TO New shopping “I'm not afraid Belgrade YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 malls spring of death, film festival [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 up across I'm afraid going strong BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Belgrade of dying”

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COMMENT Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser

Serbia’s new president: EU’s own - - -

credibilityNEWS Who will it be? is at stake in

MacedoniaNEWS Eleven men are In its approach to

competing to “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Macedonia, and party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. become Serbia’s the Balkans, the head of state, EU has neglected promising higher democratisation in page 10 living standards, the name of stability life without fear - and has so betrayed and an end to its own values and hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - empowered local a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W party employment autocrats. June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, - but whether Toby VOGEL something will page 5 really change s an institution, the EU has had difficulty remains to be seen. in acknowledging the systemic sources of Ivana NIKOLIĆ political behaviour in conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the theA Balkans and adjusting its responses After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party fficial data from the accordingly. [Individual officials, E Serbian State Elector- especially those on the ground, tend to al Commission, RIK, understand the situation a little better.] say 6,724,172 Serbian These are countries with weak citizens have the right or non-existent accountability Friday • June 13 2008 to cast ballots on April mechanisms: they lack the institutional 2Ond and choose Serbia’s next head of checks and balances, strong parties state for five years. or the vigilant civil societies and media that make up textbook liberal THIS ISSUE OF

democracies. Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED Continued on pages 2 and 3 Many analysts see Beli’s ratings as a sign of a popular revolt against the political establishment. Photo: Beta Their politics are zero-sum and on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic sometimes existential: one reason why which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T former Macedonian Prime Minister Nikola Gruevski is clinging to power is his conviction – probably correct – that Belgrade’s ‘indestructible’ losing power would mean going to jail. Forced into a choice between power or obtaining a symbolic reward from mayor faces uncertain future Brussels, he will unsurprisingly choose power and survival over foreign acclaim. Balkan leaders are not irrational; they Belgrade’s mayor Siniša Mali has retained gal demolitions in Belgrade’s Savamala He worked for Deloitte & Touche in respond to an institutionally entrenched district. Belgrade and Prague, and at the Credit political culture. In Macedonia and in the backing of Serbia’s powerful prime In February, Serbian Prime Minister Suisse First Boston investment bank in Bosnia and Herzegovina, this political Aleksandar Vučić predicted that Mali New York, before joining the freshly-es- culture was reinforced by post-conflict minister through a series of political could soon be leaving his post, saying tablished Serbian Privatisation Agency settlements at Ohrid and Dayton with and personal scandals, but his position in an interview with Serbian public in 2001, where he was director of the their in-built clientelism. broadcaster RTS that “he is a good man- public tender centre for two years. The EU’s enlargement policy has depends on his boss’ continued goodwill. ager… but the atmosphere is such that He went back into the private sector failed to change this basic equation. someone has to pay the political price to launch consulting services and then The most inward-looking European Maja ŽIVANOVIĆ of unflattering media reports, and it is [for the Savamala demolitions]”. worked as general manager at the NCA Commission in recent times has now unclear how long he will stay at Investment Group from 2005 to 2008. further degraded enlargement as a tool elgrade’s mayor Siniša Mali the helm of the Serbian capital. YOUNG MAN ON THE RISE He returned to public service after the for political transformation, signalling was one of the smart young Mali, now 44, has been accused over Serbian Progressive Party came to pow- that membership is a long way off for hopes of the ruling Serbian the past two years of plagiarising his Mali graduated from Belgrade Univer- er, when he became an advisor on the the current candidate countries and BProgressive Party when he PhD thesis, concealing his ownership sity’s Economics Faculty, got his master's economy and finance to Vučić, who at putting a man in charge whose priority was appointed in April 2014. of several apartments on the Bulgarian degree at Washington University in St. the time was First Deputy Prime Minister. seems to be to do as little as possible. But as soon as he entered the spot- coast, manhandling a journalist and in- Louis, then his PhD in 2013, at the Faculty light, he started to become the subject volvement in highly controversial ille- of Organisational Sciences in Belgrade. Continued on page 5 Continued on page 8

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Serbia’s new president: Who will it be?

oters will elect one of “I am honest, I want to use [work in] NENAD ČANAK 11 presidential candi- my personal interest, but I want to help dates, whose stances people, too,” he said. The leader and cofounder of the on main political He vows to establish good relations League of Social Democrats of Vojvo- topics do not differ with the neighbouring countries, prom- dina, LSV, is the only presidential can- much; the majority ising to spread love and to connect East didate who has promised to recognize ofV opposition candidates’ programmes and West, just as former Yugoslav presi- the independence of Kosovo if he wins focus on discrediting the ruling Serbian dent Josip Broz Tito once did. the election. Progressive Party and its leader, Prime When it comes to Russia, Beli prom- “In the name of peace in the Balkans, Minister Aleksandar Vučić. According ises to continue current good relations. Serbia’s European future and the his- to the polls, he also has the best chanc- In terms of EU integration, the spoof torical reconciliation of the two people, es to win. politician argues that a referendum I express my willingness to support the The RIK confirmed that voting in the should be called so citizens can decide decision on de facto recognition of Ko- election will take place at 90 polling whether they want to become part of sovo [independence],” Čanak said. stations in Kosovo and at 53 stations the European family or not. While he supports closer ties with abroad in 32 countries. His stance on Kosovo, the former NATO and the EU, Čanak is a fierce critic The first round takes place on April province which declared independent of Serbia’s close ties to Russia and of the 2nd while the second round is set for in 2008, does not differ much from the politicians advocating it. He also argues April 16th. However, many suspect there other candidates. “The essence is that that Serbia cannot balance between will be no need for the second round, as Kosovo should remain an integral part the EU and Russia and continue sitting Vučić already has the backing of more of Serbia,” Beli argues. on two chairs. than half of the electorate. He came into the spotlight during last Čanak and his LSV party also advo- The latest survey, published on year’s local elections in Mladenovac, cate new lustration legislation to bar March 20th by Ipsos Strategic Market- when he won 20 per cent of the vote for those responsible for human rights vio- ing, shows Vučić in the lead by far with the “Hit it Hard – Beli” group. He came lations, in situations like the wars of the 53 per cent of voters behind him. second only to the local branch of the 1990s, from holding public office. He is followed by the spoof politi- ruling Progressive Party. Serbia’s first Lustration Law came cian Ljubiša Preletačević – Beli who has Many analysts see Beli’s ratings as a into force in 2003 but was never imple- about 11 per cent. sign of a popular revolt against the po- mented after parliament failed even to About 10.6 per cent of voters support litical establishment. fully staff the commission intended to former ombudsman Saša Janković, implement the lustration. while some 8.7 per cent support the ALEKSANDAR VUČIĆ During the campaign Čanak has Serbian Radical Party leader Vojislav again expressed the need for a lustra- Šešelj. The Prime Minister and leader of the tion law. Vuk Jeremić, a former foreign min- ruling Serbian Progressive Party, SNS, is The 58-year-old has also published ister and president of the UN General likely to become Serbia’s new head of several books and participated in the Assembly, enjoys the support of 6.9 state. Big Brother VIP show in 2009. per cent of voters, followed by Boško Despite his undoubted popularity, Obradović, the leader of Dveri, on he has been accused of controlling the about 3.5 per cent. media, of silencing critical voices and Saša Radulović, leader of Enough is of other wrongdoings. eople in Belgrade that BIRN Enough, and Nenad Čanak, the head of He also drew criticism when he an- As ombudsman, Janković was attacked by pro-government tabloids and by the government itself for his reports and Photo: Beta criticism of the government's work. talked to do not expect much Vojvodina Social Democrats, both enjoy According to the polls, Vučić has the best chances to win. Photo: Beta nounced his candidacy in April elec- to change after the April support of only 1.7 per cent of people. tions having said he would not run for breakaway Serbian Progressive Party, defendant at the ICTY in The Hague in- He also opposes Serbia’s EU integra- P presidential election, and still hope Belgrade Insight has prepared a list dential campaign to criticising Vučić statements and connections to the and cooperation with NATO but says the presidential post several times. and instantly re-entered parliament, sists he is the only candidate who can tion process: “It is time Serbia made for a second round, despite the polls of the presidential candidates, their and his policies. French far-right Front National. cooperating with Russia is also in Ser- Vučić has since portrayed himself as taking over again as speaker. beat Vučić. the only possible decision and stops its ALEKSANDAR VUČIĆ showing that Prime Minister Vučić profiles and stances on the main issues. 53% However, Jeremić has also majored in Aged 32, an engineer by profession, bia’s interests. the only man who can save the country Today, he is the most popular politi- “I also think I am the only one that as road to the EU.” has the support of more than a half of The candidates’ names appear in the nationalistic rhetoric in the campaign, he recently came under a spotlight As a young engineer, Radulović from ruin. cian in Serbia according to polls. Not a head of the state can control the ex- Instead of the EU, Serbia should turn the electorate. same order as the ballots confirmed by especially on the issue of Albanians. after saying he would support a law moved to the US where he become an “It is an issue of importance for the fu- everyone is on his side, however. Crit- ecutive, judicial and legislative powers, to Russia. He says that Russia’s Vladimir LJUBIŠA PRELETAČEVIĆ-BELI Bogdan Đorđević, a 25-year-old the RIK. 11% During a visit to the southern city labelling every person or body in the IT entrepreneur. He moved back to Ser- ture of Serbia, because in recent months ics maintain that his is no real friend to which means Vučić’s government and his Putin “treats us as equals and makes ef- sociology student, says there will of Niš, Jeremić condemned the idea country that receives foreign funding bia in 2005 and became well known we can see how all of those who were democracy, accusing him of autocratic majority in the Parliament,” Šešelj said. forts to understand our wish to be free, be no surprises in April, adding he SAŠA JANKOVIĆ SAŠA JANKOVIĆ of building a highway connecting Bel- “an agent of foreign interest,” along the as a pioneer of the Serbian blog scene, destroying the country, who led it to the ambitions, self-promotion and corrup- Šešelj said that he enjoys a great while on the other hand you have EU 10.6% would not be shocked if Vučić won in grade and Tirana, arguing that Serbia same lines as Russia. writing on economics, business and tax brink of bankruptcy and destroyed the tion of his party allies. support from the younger generation, and Washington, which bombed us, the first round. Janković was among the first to needed “a Moravski corridor”, connect- He cherishes the idea of a Greater reforms. future, wish to return to power and de- which admires his defiance before the and who do not respect our constitu- While he admires Janković, he VOJISLAV ŠEŠELJ launch his presidential campaign in 8.7% ing cities within Serbia, “not a Greater Serbia, not so much as a territorial but He surprisingly became Minister of stroy Serbia,” Vučić said, referring main- BOŠKO OBRADOVIĆ ICTY. His biggest rivals in the first round tion and claim there are two states on fears the former ombudsman has early February, days after he resigned Albania corridor.” as a cultural space. Economy in 2013, but soon he came ly to the opposition Democratic Party, are Janković and Jeremić, Šešelj told our territory [referring to Kosovo].” little chance of winning. from the post of ombudsman, which he He also said the proposed Niš-Tirana Parović would not recognise Kosovo’s under fire from Vučić when he stopped which held power until 2012. The leader of the right-wing nation- the public broadcaster RTS. Popović served as a science and VUK JEREMIĆ “For a successful campaign, a lot had held for almost a decade. 6.9% highway would bring more Albanians independence but says further talks several dubious privatization process- Vučić will not recognise the inde- alist opposition Dveri [“Doors”] party is Šešelj has pledged never to give up environment protection minister in more money and time is needed, as “I will run to bring back the smile, to Serbia “every weekend to buy land, should be conducted under the auspic- es. After only four months in govern- pendence of Kosovo, a stance he has an MP in the Serbian parliament. In an fighting for Serbia to regain Kosovo and Vojislav Koštunica’s government from well as space in the media, which is the dignity and the future of Serbia,” he apartments and houses. Don’t we have es of the UN, not the EU. He argues that ment he resigned and formed his own reiterated on several occasions; he interview to BIRN in late 2016, he prom- calls the Brussels agreement a “betrayal 2004 to 2007. In 2007 and 2008 he was BOŠKO OBRADOVIĆ mostly reserved for one candidate wrote on Twitter. 3.5% enough of them [Albanians]?” Jeremić Serbia should have good relations with movement. cherishes ties to the EU and to Russia ised to unite all Serbs in one state if he of Serbian national interests”. an energy minister. He stood as can- only,“ Bogdan says, meaning the PM. His campaign has been highly critical said, causing a storm on social media. Russia, China and Western Europe but and argues that Serbia should remain wins the April elections. Instead of the EU, which he opposes didate for the Belgrade Mayoralty in “For me the phenomenon of Beli of Vučić, accusing him of undermining SAŠA RADULOVIĆ He vows not to recognise the inde- should maintain both political and mili- LJUBIŠA militarily neutral, but needs links to He has pledged to promote the unifi- Serbia joining, Serbia should integrate 2008, 2012 and 2014. is also interesting. For him it will be state institutions, mixing the state with 1.7% pendence of Kosovo but to find a sus- tary neutrality, thus opposing the idea PRELETAČEVIĆ - BELI NATO “as an ally” to help keep the Ser- cation of Serbia with Montenegro and more with Russia. Serbia should also a success no matter how much per his family and calling him “a complete tainable solution, advocating closer ties of joining either the EU or NATO. bian minority in Kosovo safe. then with Bosnia's Serb-dominated en- stop cooperating with NATO. MILAN STAMATOVIĆ cent [of votes] he gets and I support phantom from [the Belgrade neigh- NENAD ČANAK with Russia, the EU, China and the US, The biggest surprise of the 2017 presi- Since July 2012, when his Progressive tity, Republika Srpska, and finally with During the Yugoslav wars, Šešelj be- the idea that the undecided [voters] bourhood] Savamala”, referring to the 1.7% and favouring military neutrality, thus SAŠA RADULOVIĆ dential elections is a spoof personal- Party, SNS, first time formed the govern- Macedonia. came known for his extreme rhetoric, The mayor of the western town of will vote for him,” Bogdan concluded. last year’s night-time demolitions in Source: Ipsos Strategic Marketing excluding Serbia’s NATO membership. ity “played” by Luka Maksimović, a ment, Vučić has established his control Obradović confirmed his close ties which he used to mobilize Serbs across Čajetina is competing on behalf of the Irena, 26, who has just finished Savamala, which had the apparent aim Published: March 20th Jeremić rose to prominence in 2007 The head of the “Dosta je bilo” 26-year-old from the Belgrade munici- over the defence, security and secret with Russia to BIRN but denies receiv- the region. He openly advocated the Association of Citizens “For a Healthy MA in Psychology and started her of clearing the terrain for the Arab state- by the government itself for his reports when Serbia’s then President, Boris [“Enough is Enough”] movement and pality of Mladenovac. services and has made almost every ing any financial support from Russia, “ethnic cleansing” of much of Yugo- Serbia”. professional career, is more optimis- backed Waterfront project. and criticism of the government’s work. Tadić, made him foreign minister. a former finance minister has become According to “Beli” and his team, Beli field of national and political life his arguing that, besides Russia, he is close slavia and popularised the idea of a Until recently, Stamatović was also a tic and hopes these elections will “lay “I certainly will not be a president Janković started his career in 1994 Jeremić fought hard for Serbia’s claim one of the most bitter critics of the gov- is a deliberate caricature of the very own business - from foreign investment to other parties holding similar views “Greater Serbia”, based on the principle, member of the Serbian People’s Party, the foundations for future changes.” who will sign [support] the independ- as a journalist at the news agency Beta, to Kosovo, lobbying governments ernment he once worked for. worst type of Serbian politician. and talks on Kosovo to fighting crime within the EU. “Where there are Serbian graves, there which he quit owing to the party’s sup- “Although it is not likely to happen, ence of Kosovo but I don’t want to be a which he left in 1997 to join the Ministry against recognizing its independence – When it comes to this election, He comes complete with fake univer- and corruption. On Kosovo, Obradović says Serbia should be Serbian land.” port for the ruling Progressives and for I hope there will be a second round. I populist, I’m pretty sure no one would of Youth and Sports. From 2000 to 2001 a move which irritated many Western- Radulović seems convinced that Vučić sity diploma, wealth that is unaccount- After finishing Law School in Bel- should never recognize it as an inde- He was acquitted on all nine war Vučić. also hope that by that second round ask me to do that,” Janković told the he was a secretary at the ministry, and ers and which made his opponents call can yet be beaten despite his big lead in ed for and a tendency to make empty grade, he started as a journalist in 1992 pendent state, while the EU-sponsored crimes charges at the ICTY. The pros- Stamatović, who was also a member [on April 16th], we will have a chance Russian media recently. from 2001 to 2003 an assistant secre- him a closet nationalist. the polls. populist promises to win votes. And all in a war-torn Bosnia, and in 1993 joined Brussels agreement and Belgrade-Pris- ecution appealed the judgment. of the DSS, argues that Kosovo is “occu- to think better about who we want to Janković’s campaign, which has tary at the same ministry. After completing his UN mandate, “If we get to the second round, and we that while wearing his trademark all- the hardline nationalist Serbian Radi- tina talks should be cancelled. pied” and that the Brussels agreement reppresent us for the next five years,“ #withoutfear as one of its main slogans, From 2003 until his appointment Jeremić founded the Center for Inter- are working to raise the turnout, Vučić white suit. cal Party. Obradović also argues that Serbia ALEKSANDAR POPOVIĆ on Kosovo was “treacherous”. Irena told BIRN. also focuses on strengthening the rule of as Ombudsman in 2007, he worked as national Relations and Sustainable De- will not be able to bear the fact that he is When he came to the RIK office on In 1998, he became a minister in Slo- should stop the EU integration process He also called on all the other presi- Biljana, 53, calls herself “an op- law and vows to stop party employment. a national legal adviser at the Depart- velopment in Belgrade in 2013. in the second round, and will fall apart March 12th he typically arrived in a bodan Milošević’s so-called “govern- and bolster ties with Russia instead. Ser- Popović is a member of the right- dential candidates to make a commit- positionist” and argues that the time According to him, traditional rela- ment for Democratisation of the OSCE The same year, after conflict with the like a house of cards,” Radulović pre- white limousine and with an escort of ment of national unity”, when his tasks bia must not become part of the NATO wing Democratic Party of Serbia, DSS, ment to guard Kosovo, in line with what has come for the ruling party to step tions with Russia are to be guarded Mission in Belgrade. then head of the Democratic Party, Dra- dicted recently. the kind of traditional trumpeters who included cracking down on critical alliance, and should immediately cut all which has traditionally opposed NATO the Serbian constitution says. down. and fostered, especially economic ties. gan Đilas, he was expelled from the party. He says the April elections are es- normally play at weddings, funerals voices in the media that did not follow its existing ties with it, calling it “evil”. and the EU and advocates closer ties Stamatović also opposes member- “It might seem hard, but I believe Meanwhile, Janković argues that while VUK JEREMIĆ sentially a referendum on Vučić, add- and birthdays. the official “patriotic” line. with Russia. ship of NATO, calling the Alliance “a that things will change for the better after these elections. The thing is that there is no need for Serbia to join NATO, MIROSLAV PAROVIĆ ing that if he wins instead, he will bring Addressing the public on the public Soon after Šešelj, his former friend VOJISLAV ŠEŠELJ In his presidential campaign, criminal organisation” that committed everyone has to vote. It is about us the issue needs more careful analysis. Serbia’s former foreign minister and order to the country and finally stop broadcaster RTS, Beli said that while and a role model, went to the Hague Popović duly opposes membership of “genocide” against Serbian citizens. He and our children,“ she told BIRN. As ombudsman, Janković was at- ex-President of the UN General Assem- The leader of The National Freedom party employment. he is fair and honest, he openly aims to war crimes tribunal, the ICTY, Vučić The leader of the ultra-nationalist NATO, claiming military neutrality is is a vociferous proponent of closer ties tacked by pro-government tabloids and bly has also dedicated much of his presi- Movement is known for his right-wing Radulović supports EU integration profit from entering politics. joined Tomislav Nikolić in the latter’s Serbian Radical Party and a war crimes the better option. with Russia. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

The Festival opens on the night of Continued from page 1 March 30th at UK Parobrod, Kapetan Mišina 6a, with an exhibition entitled Belgrade New Talents. The festival organisers will showcase projects by three photogra- phers whose photos won the New Talents award against fierce competition from 20 Belgrade’s ‘indestructible’ Photo Month countries. More than 150 photography projects were submitted. The winning photographers are Luka Trajković, Pawel Starzec and Oleksandr McQuartz. mayor faces uncertain future returns Another interesting exhibition is Un- censored Books, which presents work mayor's ex-wife Marija, in which she Ivana NIKOLIĆ by users of Instagram, the social media ali was then ap- alleged that he had admitted to her that Belgrade Photo platform, under the theme Their Own pointed Belgrade he was responsible for the controver- ow something of a tradition, Moment. This tour will be curated in Eng- mayor in April sial nocturnal demolitions of buildings Month is back the Belgrade Photo Month lish on April 8th, at 3pm, at Ozone Gallery, 2014, promising by masked men in the Serbian capital’s festival kicks off this year on Uzun Mirkova 10, by Natasha Christia, a that his priority Savamala district last year. for a second March 30th and ends a month Barcelona-based independent photogra- would be the bol- Marija Mali told KRIK that her ex- N th later, on April 30 , taking place at various pher, editor and educator. Mstering the city's coffers through aggres- husband said he organised the demoli- instalment, locations across Belgrade. Other subjects that will be explored sive austerity measures. tions so that the remaining obstacles to During the month-long festival, there through various exhibits during Belgrade "The consolidation of the city's fi- the building of the government-backed showcasing will be a total of 49 exhibitions, eight lec- Photo Month include current social is- nances envisages the cutting of un- Belgrade Waterfront development pro- tures, five workshops, two photo stock sues such as the refugee and migrant necessary costs, attracting investments ject would be eliminated. numerous works markets as well as five films dealing with crisis, challenges facing women in the 21st and increasing employment," he said. “I had a problem, some [people] did photography as the main theme. Century, as well as fashion photography. During his time in the office, Mali has not want to leave. I organised a clean-up by domestic “The concept of the festival is to pro- Foreign photographers such as Ruben launched large-scale renewal plans for operation. People came in the middle of mote photography as an expression, to Salgado and Wolfgang Mueller will present Belgrade, including the reconstruction the night, smashed a little something… I and foreign present Serbian and foreign photogra- their pieces to domestic audiences courtesy of the entire city centre as a pedestrian organised it, I took action,” Marija Mali phers both to domestic and international of Belgrade-based foreign culture centres. zone, the building of new kindergar- said she was told by her ex-husband. photographers. audiences, [and is] modelled on the Euro- For more information on the pro- tens, a new building for the city’s phil- The secretive Savamala operation The topics that will be explored through the various Photo: Luka Trajković pean cities such as Paris, Vienna, and Ber- gramme, venue and prices, visit www. exhibits during Belgrade Photo Month include current harmonic orchestra and several large was widely seen as a move by the au- lin,“ the organisers said in a press release. belgradephotomonth.org social issues such as the refugee and migrant crisis. residential projects. thorities to clear the ground quickly for Mali told Blic newspaper in Decem- the government-backed project, and ber that he was bent on "realising huge sparked large protests which have con- projects and beautifying the city". tinued sporadically ever since. Marija Mali did not provide any sup- PROBLEMS WITH A PHD porting material to back up her allega- International car show comes to town tions. While Mali tried to focus on his ur- She also speculated that it was not ban gentrification plans, his mayoral expected that the demolitions would Belgrade Fair is set to host the annual office was buffeted by scandal. cause much fuss as they happened on A year after he took office, his -doc the night after general elections, and International Motor Show, which will toral thesis was disputed by Raša were “expected to fall into the shadows”. Karapandža, a professor of finance In June 2016, Vučić admitted that the bring together car lovers, producers, from Wiesbaden in Germany, who ac- top city officials were behind the demo- cused Mali of plagiarising 33 per cent litions, but named no names, and the buyers and sellers. of the text from various authors, and case has not moved forward since. as Karapandža wrote on the Peščanik In July, Mali said he is ready to take website, using Wikipedia. Mali denied “any kind of responsibility” for demoli- Ivana NIKOLIĆ the accusation. tions, but “only after competent inves- The President of the Committee tigative authorities finalise their work.” nder the slogan “Years Pass By, ciations and clubs. The organizers also for Higher Education of the Serbian Following Marija Mali’s interview, Passion Doesn’t Stop“ (“Godine promised several promotional prices, Academy of Sciences and Art, acad- Vučić said that the Belgrade mayor UProlaze, Strast Ne Prestaje”), the discounts, lottery and other advantag- emician Dušan Teodorović, confirmed would have to pay “the political price” 53rd Belgrade International Motor Show es for purchasing motors. Karapandža’s claims, but ethics com- for Savamala case. will take place from Friday, March 24th Apart from the motor show, there mittee at the Faculty of Organisational The mayor’s office declined to com- until Sunday, April 2nd at Belgrade Fair. will also be the 11th annual Motopas- Sciences decided in December last ment on her interview. According to organisers, there will sion, an international motorcycles ex- year that Mali’s thesis was not the result Since then, Mali has been avoiding be more than 410 exhibitors from 30 hibition, taking place at the same time of plagiarism. independent media, who have been countries, 34 car brands, 36 motorcy- under the slogan “It is Better on Two However, this decision was rejected deleted from the mayor’s office press cle brands as well six bicycle brands. Wheels” (“Bolje Je Na Dva Točka”). It by the University’s senate on January lists and are no longer receiving infor- According to organisers, there will be more than 410 exhibitors from 30 countries. Photo: Beta A total of ten Belgrade Fair halls will be will take place in halls seven to nine, 18th. mation about his public appearances. used, occupying 41,000 square metres. and bring together motorcyclists, man- ment necessary for motorcyclists’ safe The individual ticket costs 300 di- ticket for Wednseday, March 30th, costs Mali’s family life has also attracted He has not been responding to media The exhibition and sales event will ufacturers, sellers, and various clubs handling of traffic. nars [around two euros], while group around four euros. If you arrive by car, unwanted attention several times. inquiries. be a meeting place for the entire motor and associations. Belgrade Fair is open every day from visits are also possible at around one keep in mind that one hour at the park- The mayor’s brother Predrag Mali His ex-wife’s interview led to the lat- Mali was appointed Belgrade mayor in April 2014, promising that his priority would be bolstering the city's Photo: Beoinfo industry, including car manufacturers, However, the main focus will be on 10am to 8pm, while on the last day of the and a half euros. A students’ ticket costs ing lot outside of the Belgrade Fair cost was caught in a scandal in September coffers through aggressive austerity measures. est incident, on March 7th, when Mali professional and car enthusiasts’ asso- the promotion of the supporting equip- shows, April 2nd, the door will close at 7pm. just over one euro while a ‘Family Day’ 80 cents. 2014, along with the prime minister’s allegedly pushed journalist Milka brother, Andrej Vučić, when they ments on the Bulgarian coast in 2012 when he became an adviser to Vučić account, and also cited three more sus- Domanović from Istinomer away as were allegedly assaulted by mem- and 2013 as the legal representative of in 2013. picious transfers. she tried to quiz him on his former bers of a police Gendarmerie unit two offshore companies based in the Mali said he had acted as a private The Anti-Corruption Agency also spouse’s claims while he was visiting deployed to secure the Belgrade Gay British Virgin Islands. consultant advising people on how revealed that in January 2015, Mali re- the Belgrade municipality of Rakovica. Pride parade. The mayor denied this. they can “buy real estate tax optimally ported that he and his family own 29 Mali’s office has denied that he ORDER DELIVERY TO The Ombudsman’s office said that, In a statement, he said he only owned or restructure their business” for 20 pieces of real estate, two of which are in pushed Domanović, saying it was clear Find your copy of YOUR DOOR according to police records, they tried one apartment in Bulgaria, which he re- years before assuming public office, his name. Officials are obliged to report that journalists from Istinomer and +381 11 4030 303 to break through a cordon and clashed ported to the Anti-Corruption Agency and that KRIK’s story was related to this properties owned by them, their spous- KRIK were trying “to provoke the may- [email protected] with the officers; it period, and had nothing to do with his es or partners and their children under or and cause incidents”. Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight also questioned time in office. the age of 18. The incident was recorded on two why the broth- Mali has been “The controversial report does not In a written reply to BIRN on March videos which were published by jour- ers of the prime specify any data that has to do with my 9th, Mali’s office said he already submit- nalists. minister and avoiding role as a mayor, but only gives informa- ted “all necessary and relevant docu- After the explosive interview, the LAZAR LUX APARTMENTS HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL the mayor independent tion from my professional life at a time mentation” and gave his statements “to mayor quickly resolved his issues Address: Stjepana Ljubiše 31 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE were being ac- when I used to work privately,” he said. competent authorities”. with his ex-wife, and both said in a Address: Smetanina 12 companied media, who have Serbia’s Anti-Corruption Agency The office appealed for media “not to joint public release on March 13th that MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION by military po- launched an investigation into whether make premature judgments and thus they will not talk about their private Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD liceman when been deleted from Mali had held both jobs at the same affect the independence of the institu- life in public. Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE the incident hap- time, which would contravene anti- tions, but to wait for the results of the As ever, his political future is now HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA SKVER 44 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 Address: Požeška 44a pened. the mayor’s office graft laws. investigation.” in the hands of his party leader Vučić, Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade There were more personal woes for At the time, Vučić mentioned the “After the processes are completed, who cautioned in February that the Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 INTERGALACTIC DINNER Mali when he got divorced in Novem- possibility of Mali’s dismissal, but said the mayor will be able to comment on mayor’s position is not “sustainable HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ĐORĐE press lists and are Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 ber 2015 and his custody battle over his the accusations against the mayor the above-cited case,” it said. long-term”, although nothing has hap- Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 CAFE CAFFE LOUNGE Address: Moravska 10 Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar two children with his wife Marija hit the were “nonsense”. pened since to suggest that Mali is Address: Vase Pelagića 48 no longer receiving Mihajla Pupina 85A headlines. On March 8th this year, the Anti-Cor- MASKED MEN WITH about to step down. CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF At the same time he was already try- ruption Agency published a report that BULLDOZERS The mandate of the local authorities Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE information MIXER HOUSE ing to quash allegations about murky it has previously sent to the prosecu- lasts for four years, so unless snap elec- Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Karađorđeva 46 Address: Temišvarska 19 property deals. tor’s office, alleging that a bank, whose Mali’s next scandal began closer to tions are called, Belgraders will vote KOLARAC about his public In October 2015, KRIK, the network name was not disclosed, was suspi- home again. for new city council in 2018 - and Mali Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT PIZZERIA ALO-ALO KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 th Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Svetozara Markovića 19a Address: Cara Lazara 10 for investigating crime and corruption, appearances." cious about a transfer of money from a On February 13 this year, KRIK pub- could remain in office until then, unless said that Mali had bought 24 apart- British Virgin Islands company to Mali’s lished an interview with the Belgrade Vučić decides otherwise. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS COMMENT New shopping malls The turbulent birth of spring up across Belgrade modern Belgrade With the aid Belgrade of foreign became fully investment, new independent construction from Ottoman projects are rule 150 years starting to bloom ago and in the Serbian went on to capital. dramatically reshape itself. Mirjana NARANDŽIĆ

elgrade is set to develop a more commercial edge, with plans for at least four modern shopping centres recently be- ing cemented in the capital. BBig Fashion, a 32,300-square-metre shopping mall, will open on April 20th in Belgrade's Višnjička Street and – accord- ing to Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali, it will employ 1,500 people. "This was an 80-million-euro worth investment, and is just one of many con- struction sites in Belgrade," Mali said dur- ing his visit to the site on March 22nd. Investors say Belgrade has the capac- ity to develop its retail market, and by constructing the malls, numerous job op- Srđan GARČEVIĆ portunities will be cre- ated in Big Fashion, a 32,300-square-metre shopping mall, will open on April 20th in Belgrade's Višnjička Street and – according to Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali, it will employ 1,500 people. Photo: Beoinfo Serbia's capital. century and a half However, ago, on April 6th 1867, experts re- Most important BLOOMING BUSINESS It told BIRN that it had recognised un- Belgrade, and also for those who occasion- the last Ottoman sol- main divided tapped potential in the Serbian capital, ally find themselves here," said Đogović. Bajrakli mosque, once among dozens of Ottoman-era mosques in Belgrade, is now the only one remaining in the city. Photo: Srđan Garčević diers left the Belgrade over whether is for investors to While Belgrade has occasionally lagged which is why it initiated the Rajićeva pro- However, he pointed out that pur- fortress, the north- Serbs lived on the other side of Knez National Theatre. The alleyways and Pančevo and became a patriarch of one with the fez and embraced finely cut venues could estimate whether behind other capitals in the Balkan neigh- ject. chasing power in Serbia is low, so people ernmost post of the Mihailova, around Kosančić square, in in- wooded gardens of Dorćol were forced of the most influential families in Serbia. English suits. Beer became the drink of really boost bourhood, it is with the aid of foreign in- The multipurpose structure will con- should not expect high-end brands such Asprawling, if crumbling, empire. That day, creasingly western-looking neoclassical into a grid pattern based on a plan by On the other hand, Scottish mission- choice, while soirees, salons and nights employment it is worth it to vestors that it is starting to catch up. tain an underground garage, a shopping as Tiffany&Co, for example, but rather celebrated with much pomp in Kalemeg- one-storey houses. Although their hous- Emilijan Josimović, Serbia’s first urban ary and teetotaller Francis Mackenzie at the theatre became the norm. levels. They The emergence of new shopping malls, centre with some 80 outlets, and a hotel. something more accessible. dan, marked the beginning of modern es increasingly resembled those across planner. purchased land around Slavija and de- Eleven years after the withdrawal of say that opening invest or not. Also, combined with the disappearance of old- In total, it will cover approximately 60,000 "Most important is for investors to esti- Belgrade. the Sava in Habsburg-ruled Zemun, they All minarets and mosques, apart from veloped an elegant quarter for Serbia’s the Turkish army, at the Berlin congress, of the shopping malls is on the whole good er structures has become a frequent phe- square metres of space. mate whether it is worth it to invest or not. Under Ottoman rule, Belgrade was were still wearing fezzes and traditional, one, were demolished, often illegally, to elite, which later became the heart of Serbia was declared an independent for Belgrade's economy and increase low it is necessary to nomenon in recent years. The company believes Rajićeva Shop- Also, it is necessary to devise features that known as Dar al Jihad (House of the Holy flowing costumes. Nevertheless, the ris- accommodate the new plan, until there Vračar. Meanwhile, the Serbo-Turkish country. In the space of a bit more than purchasing power. In the first week of March Mali and Glob- ping Center's main advantages are that it would draw potential clients. Those could War) and in the 17th Century it was one of ing Serbian merchant class was slowly was only the gleaming spire of the ba- wars of the late 1870s drew in foreign vol- a decade Belgrade morphed into a west- The new developments follow previ- devise features al Trade Centre CEO Thomas Kurzmann will be the only shopping centre in the old be playgrounds, galleries, everything that the most prosperous Ottoman cities in working to establish state institutions roque Orthodox Cathedral to signal the unteers, mostly Russians, drawn by the ern-style capital of an ambitious princi- ous indications that such projects have laid the foundation stone of the forthcom- part of the city and that it will provide em- the others do not offer," he said. Europe. modelled on the ones in Western Europe. city’s spiritual devotion. The old, ruinous then popular spirit of Pan-Slavism and pality, eager to claim its place between been gaining increasing traction in Serbia. that would draw ing Ada Mall, located close to the river is- ployment opportunities. Đogović added that expansion of shop- By the mid-19th Century, however, it Miša Anastasijević, one of the richest Batal mosque, which was considered aristocratic adventurers from Western established European cultural centres, In the past few years, several simi- potential clients. land of the same name. "During the construction stage of the ping malls would lead to the creation of shrunk to about 30,000 souls, due to merchants of the time, decided to build a masterpiece of 16th Century Ottoman Europe keen to gain glory and money in even if it meant erasing its past. lar hubs have cropped up, not least the The leasing manager at GTC Serbia, project, we provided jobs for more than new jobs and thus an increase in purchas- many wars that tossed it between Hab- Belgrade’s tallest building, which now architecture in Europe, was blown to the turmoil. In the turbulent century and a half aforementioned Ušće and Delta City Those could be Jelena Vučković, told BIRN that Ada Mall 300 employees," said ABD doo. "Once the ing power. sburg, Ottoman and, ultimately, Serbian houses Belgrade University’s main build- smithereens in the middle of the night by It was in this era of exuberance that that was to follow, Belgrade would ex- complexes. Beteks, located on Banovo will be the first of the newest generation in shopping centre and the hotel are open, "Of course, it is important to increase hands. For several decades before the ing, and dedicate it to Belgrade’s Higher an early mayor of Belgrade to make way Belgrade’s famous night life developed. pand even more and gain in beauty and Brdo, opened in late 2016, and Aviv Park playgrounds, Belgrade. The complex will cover an area we will introduce more than 600 new jobs, earnings," Đogović said. Ottoman garrison withdrew, there was School, the university’s predecessor. for the cattle market (and much later, the Before this, Belgraders were rather tame prestige from its new residents, from the Zvezdara opened late 2015. Three further of more than 34,000 square metres and mostly shop and hotel staff, and through However, economics expert and foreign an uneasy peace between Serbian city A sizeable Jewish population lived Parliament building), in spite of pleas by people who preferred family gatherings, white Russian diaspora of the 1920s, to massive projects have also been finalised. galleries, house several brands previously unavail- sub-suppliers for services." investment consultant Mahmud Bušatlija folk and the Ottoman fortress. A skirmish freely in what is now lower Dorćol, while some Serbian intellectuals who pushed and ladies were scared of being seen in all Yugoslav peoples who made it a home According to the Chamber of Com- able in Serbia. The company added that relative to is more sceptical. Bušatlija told BIRN that between Serbs and Ottoman soldiers many Roma lived in small communities for renovation and conversion into a kafanas. It was the foreigners, flush with while it was a capital of a much larger merce and Industry of Serbia, the trade everything that "Ada Mall will have the most green areas the rest of Europe, Belgrade has plenty of Belgrade, with its 1.5 million inhabitants, escalated into a full scale bombardment outside the city gates. To add to the al- state archive. Prince Mihailo even prom- cash and eager for entertainment, who country. It would also lose its citizens, as sector is the Serbian economy's most vital of any shopping centres in Serbia," said room for development and growth. "The does not necessarily constitute a big of the city from the fortress in 1862. This ready cosmopolitan mix in town, there ised a (failed) grandiose luxury develop- gave Belgraders a taste for debauchery. well as historical areas, to war, turmoil component, providing some 11.7 per cent the others do not Vučković. She said that its location would interest to invest in Belgrade is increasing market, so the opening of new structures incident, in turn, led to a treaty with the were pockets of catholic and protestant ment on the banks of Sava, just below the According to Felix Kanitz, an Austro- and neglect. of GDP. As much as 19 per cent of the work- mean the number of visitors to the mall which is evident from the larger number of could be deemed unnecessary. Ottomans which directed that the Mus- residents who had their churches from fortress. Hungarian art historian and explorer of Although the city has grown and force is employed in this sector. offer.” would increase in the summer months. investments in both the capital and other "We already had that situation, with lim population, once the majority in the the time of the brief Habsburg rule in the Although the assassination of Prince the Balkans, in the 1870s Belgrade’s many changed beyond recognition since 1867, The purchasing power in Serbia how- "Due to the proximity of the popular beach cities in Serbia." Delta City and the Ušće Shopping Center," city and concentrated in Dorćol, needed 18th Century, as well as Greek and Alba- Mihailo in 1868 shook the country, mod- kafanas were chock-full with revellers the restless, alluring and occasionally ever remains rather low. According to Ser- Ada Ciganlija, this mall will become a new The largest retail park in Belgrade, Capi- said Bušatlija. to leave the city or convert. nian merchants who brought goods from ern Belgrade continued to develop ac- who were entertained by French croon- dangerous spirit that seeks to reshape its bia's trade ministry, the average monthly Saša Đogović, urban nucleus." tol Park Rakovica, is also set to open this Bušatlija is not overly optimistic about Even though it started losing most the Orient. All in all, it was a vibrant small cording to his vision and moved quickly ers, Hungarian fiddlers, German yodel- features and even history, no matter the salary in January was 41,508 dinars Economic expert Construction started in March, with year, thanks to the joint efforts of Britain's hypothetical new jobs and says that while of its Muslim merchants, in 1867 Bel- town, in many ways unlike the sooty, away from its Ottoman past, while retain- lers and Czech contortionists. After the cost, is very much alive in Belgrade. That [€335], while the average shopping basket some demolition works and terrain reme- Poseidon Group and Belgium's Mitiska employment might rise in the construc- grade was still an oriental town. City life booming metropolis that we know and ing its cosmopolitan, open spirit. Serbian victory against the Ottomans in spirit both explains its selective memory amounted to 68,563 dinars [€553], mean- diation. The first customers to the mall are REIM. tion sphere, the jobs are not permanent revolved around the colourful market love today. Much of Belgrade’s rising fortunes 1868, Kanitz described a parade of dra- and carelessness, but also keeps its heart ing a family of four would need 1.65 aver- expected to arrive towards the end of 2018. and when construction is over, people will which stood in the area of the current The keys to the Belgrade fortress were were due to an inflow of western inves- matically dressed characters from all open to new people who flock to it, drawn age salaries to cover the expenses of an This year, Belgrade will also see the MALLS BRING BENEFITS be unemployed once more. Academic Park (Studentski Park), while handed to Prince Mihailo Obrenović, a tors and chancers drawn by the promise around Europe partying in kafanas all to a vague sense of promise in the air. average basket. opening of Rajićeva Shopping Center, in "Excluding those few companies which dilapidated ramparts built by Ottomans smooth political operator whose diplo- of Serbia’s untapped potential. Czech the way from Kalemegdan to Vračar for I can only hope that the coming cen- 'Average basket' includes food and bev- December 2016, have increased by 1.4 per the city's main pedestrian centre, Knez Economic expert Saša Đogović told have enough funds to open completely and Austrians choked the old city. The matic and political skills allowed greater entrepreneur and founder of one of old several months, until they spent all their turies will temper Belgrade’s turbulent erages, clothing, housing, water, electricity, cent. Mihailova Street. Its opening is planned BIRN that the opening of new shopping new stores at the shopping centres, oth- minarets of fifteen mosques, including autonomy for Serbia. As soon he got full Belgrade’s famous breweries, Ignjat Ba- money gambling and drinking. nature and finally allow it to reach fulfil gas, health costs, transport, communica- In 2015 Eurostat found that Croatian cit- for the third quarter of 2017, with the hotel malls could have a positive impact on Bel- ers will only move from old buildings to a one on top of the fortress, accentuated control of Serbia’s capital he planned to jloni, initially planned to move to the During all this commotion richer Bel- its potential, without losing its open heart tions, recreation and culture, education izens had the highest purchasing power in opening planned for the start of 2018. grade and Serbian tourism in general, and new one. When you look at the statistics, the skyline. High walls protected lush reshape it in the mould of Western cities, USA, but was lured to Serbia by his sister, graders quickly adopted Western fash- and enthusiasm for novelty. and a small amount for luxury items such the Balkans, which is 59 per cent of the Eu- The Rajićeva Shopping Centre project is that a population increase in the capital you did not have higher employment in gardens and the white townhouses of no matter the cost. who promised that Serbia offered better ions. Well made-up ladies were happily as alcohol, tobacco, restaurants and ho- ropean average. Bosnia and Herzegovina managed by a company called ABD doo, would lead to growth in demand. the past, when new centers were opened. Dorćol, while countless fountains with Fortifications were demolished and investment opportunities. Bajloni’s main showing off their wares from Paris and tels. had the lowest purchasing power (28 per a subsidiary of Ashtrom International, "If anywhere in Serbia has a need for To feel a reduction in unemployment, it is Arabic inscriptions dotted its cramped gave way to squares, boulevards, and rival, Ignatz Wiefert, brought his brew- Vienna, while the gentlemen, many of Srđan Garčević is a writer and a founder Consumer prices for goods and ser- cent). Serbia had 36 per cent of the Euro- which is one of Israel's leading construc- shopping malls, it is Belgrade. They would necessary to create a completely new in- alleyways. public buildings, most famous being the ing knowledge across the Danube from whom were educated abroad, did away of The Nutshell Times blog. vices in January 2017, compared with pean average. tion and real estate companies. be important, both for those who live in dustry," he said. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 9 REGION FACES

Continued from page 1 EU’s own credibility “I'm not afraid of death, I'm is at stake in Macedonia afraid of dying” Ivan Ivanji, he EU has pursued an agenda of stability Serbian-Jewish rather than of democratisation in translator for Tito, the region. Instead of pushing for a writer and Nazi transformationT of political culture, it has cultivated incumbent elites. Like concentration them, it is terrified of the sort of “people power” [or at least raw anger] that camp survivor, on was evident in Macedonia after the wiretapping scandal broke, or in Bosnia life, love, and loss. in the spring of 2014. For a moment, in summer 2015, it looked as if the European Commission Natalia ŽABA might drop its customary reticence and take a more political approach to is life and profes- one of the countries seeking to join sional experience is the European Union – in this case, so rich that putting it Macedonia. into one book seems A panel headed by Reinhard Priebe, like mission impossi- a former Commission official, outlined ble, even for a writer measures that Gruevski’s centre-right Has accomplished as Ivan Ivanji. The government would have to take to Serbian-Jewish writer, who describes restore confidence and strengthen himself being Yugoslav, says he now accountability following the belongs nowhere but feels at home in wiretapping scandal and an apparent Belgrade. systemic abuse of power. Ivanji had been Josip Broz Tito’s per- The Priebe report, which was sonal translator for 20 years, but he unusually blunt in its analysis and also worked as a diplomat, secretary prescriptive in its recommendations, general of the Yugoslav Writers’ Union, was made public – another unusual an editor, a theatre director, and a sec- step for the Commission, which ondary school teacher. generally prefers to resolve problems He has written dozen of novels, short in candidate countries behind closed stories, and articles. He personally doors. knew the most prominent artists and In the following months, the crisis writers from the former Yugoslavia, in Macedonia deepened. EU-led including Nobel Prize winning writer mediation between the government Ivo Andrić, famous Croatian writer Mi- and the opposition resulted in a deal on roslav Krleža, and was also friends with early elections and a parallel process German Nobel prize winner Gunter of investigating the wiretapping claims Grass for many years. and other accusations of abuse of Besides glamour and a high-flying power. career, life has also brought him a great However, the elections in December deal of pain. He lost his parents in 1941, 2016 were inconclusive: Gruevski’s both were killed Josip Broz Tito and Ivan Ivanji, together with Willy Brandt and Yugoslav communist policitian Miloš Minić, in 1974. Photo: Courtesy of Ivan Ivanji One reason why former Macedonian Prime Minister Nikola Gruevski is clinging to power is his conviction – probably correct – that losing power would mean going to jail. Photo: Flickr/European People’s Party party held on to a wafer-thin lead by the Nazis. over the opposition Social Democrats two episodes – the Priebe report and Gruevski’s abuses, Sebastian Kurz, even though the EU was nominally united in their approach. The US has Ivanji was sent During one of the married. I was married three times, I mut Schmidt issues around August Be- “I did not survive, someone saved but lacked the numbers to form a Mogherini’s strong plea to the President Austria’s Foreign Minister, campaigned in the lead in mediating between the tended to take a slightly more muscular at the age divorced twice, everything at the right bel – the father of the Social Democratic me. According to documents, I was sup- government on its own. – remained isolated moments of clear- for Gruevski in the run-up to the government and the opposition. approach, for example by freezing the of fifteen to anniversaries in time,” Ivanji says. Worker’s party but he needed a person posed to be sent to Auschwitz to the gas It subsequently proved unable headedness. December 2016 election. This was a direct result of the EU’s assets of Milorad Dodik, the Bosnian the Buchen- As a person who was engaged in the who could understand the language chamber, but someone instead of me to build a new coalition with ethnic In 2015-16, hundreds of thousands of At the same time, the intervention diminished credibility and its pursuit Serb leader. wald and Buchenwald I cultural life of Belgrade he met, in per- and make sure that nobody was listen- was sent there,” Ivanji says. Albanian parties. But when the refugees and migrants used Macedonia of specific member states – primarily of stability above all else. Standing up The fact that the EU has been Auschwitz son, the only Nobel Prize winner for ing to the conversations Tito was hav- He refuses to say what’s wrong and Social Democrats struck a deal with as an escape route from Greece and a Germany, the UK and the Netherlands to strongmen of the Gruevski type does reluctant to follow that lead has further concentration was put in a room literature from the former Yugoslavia, ing with the highest officials and which right. two ethnic Albanian parties that corridor to Western Europe. Stopping - and the US, was required to hold the not come easily to the EU. signaled that it is not to be taken camps in 1944 Ivo Andrić. should be kept secret,” Ivanji recalls. “I don’t know what I would have done would have given them a majority in new arrivals became the overriding Gruevski government to its commitments The EU could yet regain some of seriously. and remained in a local hotel “Andrić was very distinguished, but In Ivanji’s opinion a translator has a if I was in the skin of someone who had parliament, the President, a Gruevski goal for policymakers in Brussels, under the deal with the opposition. its diminished authority, however, if EU foreign ministers should consider there until 1945. he also had moments of very dark hu- very specific profession, as he can see the opportunity to kill,” Ivanji admits. ally, blocked it. Berlin, and elsewhere. At critical moments throughout it builds on the Priebe report and on sanctions against any politician in He recorded his experiences of both where Hitler used mour.” his client “naked”. He also recalls the taste of victory. At that point, Federica Mogherini, The EU’s goal of closing the “Balkan Macedonia’s crisis, it was bilateral Mogherini’s comments. Macedonia who is trying to undermine camps in his novel My Beautiful Life in Ivanji remembers attending a meet- “Tito was a very good diplomat, a “During one of the anniversaries in the EU’s foreign policy chief, stepped route” and of deterring refugees from pressure and crisis diplomacy from these It should make it clear that the the deal agreed between the Hell and chronicled his career as Tito’s to reside, and ing during which Andrić told delegates very outspoken and dexterous inter- Buchenwald I was put in a room in a in, calling on the President to allow trying to reach Greece now overrode countries that kept the process moving, Macedonian President must allow any government and the opposition. translator and secretary general of the of the Union of Writers he would eat all locutor,” Ivanji says. local hotel where Hitler used to reside, the new coalition to take power. In all other concerns. coalition with a parliamentary majority In an EU that now views its Yugoslav Writers’ Union in his memoir the feeling was the books with patriotic poetry they de- “You can consider pioneers and wav- and the feeling was fantastic. He is dead early March, she said in Skopje that Macedonia to form a government. neighbourhood as an unwelcome Tito’s Translator. cide to print. ing to Tito on Youth Day as theatre, and it and I’m still alive,” Ivanji laughs at the the President’s action broke “the spirit was a critical The EU could It must insist that the various distraction, the Priebe report and the You might think Ivanji has discussed fantastic. He is He also tells a story about the famous really was one, but when Tito was visit- memory. of democracy” and was “inconsistent building block elements of the Priebe report and of Mogherini statement were an exception, everything about his unconventional writer, Miroslav Krleža, and his visit to ing other countries world leaders would Asked about the current situation in with basic democratic principles” and of that policy, the deal between ruling party and not the rule. They reflected a sense of life, but the 88-year-old author doesn’t dead and I’m still the Croatian coastal village of Opatija. show him a lot of respect, and that can- the Balkans, he says he is worried, how- “the Euro-Atlantic integration process.” although the yet regain some opposition be implemented in full, and panic in Brussels, not a new strategy for stop surprising. And he steadfastly re- Krleža declared he would not swim not be denied,” Ivanji concluded. ever he refuses to compare present She continued: “I asked the President damage that that those charged with abuse of power dealing with the Western Balkans. fuses to become embittered by his life alive.” in the sea, as the water was polluted. Asked if he ever had problems with times to the 1930’s. to reflect on the way forward, to reverse this policy of its diminished should be prosecuted. The EU keeps insisting that there experiences. Ivanji asked Krleža’s wife if the water Tito, because of his sharp tongue and “Bosnia and Macedonia don’t look his decision in the interest of all citizens was doing was But the EU will only be credible if are no fires in need of putting out in When we meet, he does not talk was really that bad. She confided that ironic comments, Ivanji says never. good, and I’m afraid of what could hap- of this country.” most visible in authority, it is prepared to go public with such the Balkans - yet its main mode of about the loss of his parents or Aus- Krleža had just put on weight and was However, he remembers that once pen there, but I don’t think we can say These were clear, strong words. Yet, relations with Turkey. messages and openly challenge those engagement is fire-fighting. As long as chwitz or Buchenwald, where he was “The requirement was that they ashamed to take his clothes off in front when he mentioned to Tito that Bel- that what we see now can be compared at the time of writing, Gruevski and his Led by Germany, the EU traded however, if in power – in Macedonia and beyond. this does not change, the EU will find it sent most probably by his uncle. must look like sluts, I needed six bal- of people. grade should have a real opera build- to the chaotic time just before World associates are still holding firm. its principles for short-term relief; Preaching will not be sufficient: The difficult to have a truly transformative Instead, Ivanji repeats that there was lerinas. Dragana was one of those six “I was lucky to meet many famous ing, Tito, who disapproved of the idea, War II,” he says. Is this proof that “conditionality it cultivated an increasingly it builds on EU must also reaffirm its commitment effect on the region. no tougher experience in his life than proposed. She was very angry when people, and get to know them true– didn’t say anything and just turned his Ivanji spent almost 20 years in Vi- doesn’t work,” as a senior former authoritarian leader – President to fundamental values by sanctioning the death of his beloved wife, Dragana she heard the requirements. I remem- born [as human beings],” Ivanji admits. head away. enna but after his wife Dragana died, he Commission official involved in Erdogan of Turkey – and in effect the Priebe member states that are backsliding on Ivanji, who passed away two years ago. ber her saying angrily: ‘We’re not sluts, Asked about his 20-year career as Ivanji, despite being orphaned and decided to move back to Belgrade. enlargement negotiations put it? campaigned for his party in the democratic reform, above all Hungary Toby Vogel is co-founder and senior “The most dramatic event in my life we’re educated ballerinas’,” Ivanji re- Tito’s personal German-language trans- witnessing the horrors of Auschwitz “Nothing is as it should be [in Serbia] Does the EU, as another Commission general election of November 2015, for report and on and Poland, and those that have associate of the Democratization Policy happened when my wife died. I came calls. lator, Ivanji says he did not work for Tito and Buchenwald, refuses to see the but I’m back,” he says. He remains very official suggested, really have “very example by delaying the release of the prevented refugees from seeking the Council. to the realisation that she’s not here He’s definitely not prone to being ex- all the time but remembers high level world as a good or bad place. And he active and is currently planning a trip to limited influence over events” in its Commission’s annual progress report Mogherini’s protection to which they are entitled. anymore, but I’m still alive,” he says. citable, he might seem to be distant and conferences were quite stressful and remains distanced from everything he Germany. However, he admits to think- neighbourhood? for candidate countries. At a time when US foreign policy has The opinions expressed in the Ivanji meet his third wife Dragana at ironic, but not cold. exhausting. has experienced. ing about death more often. In Macedonia’s case, there was Something similar was happening comments." become erratic and the Balkans have Comment section are those of the the theatre. She was a ballerina and he “Nobody knew at the theatre that “Sometimes I was completely useless “It was April 13th, 1945 when I left the “But I’m not afraid of death, I’m afraid another reason why the EU was in Macedonia. In a display of contempt completely dropped off the radar, it authors only and do not necessarily was a director looking for ballerinas for there was something between us, af- as a translator. Tito spoke very good Ger- camp, I was feeling more adult than of dying, it can be quite unpleasant,” he reluctant to rock the boat, and why the for any unified EU position countering is vital that the EU and the US remain reflect the views of BIRN. one of his performances. ter a couple of months, in 1964, we got man, he could even discuss with Hel- ever,” he says. concludes, with a smile. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wishful Visiting old drinking - wine list Belgrade reviews Corner Wine

It always begins on a vintage with a simple question: ‘Can you bring me the wine tramway list'? Everything else that follows is a complex matter, The journey by their heads to absorb the myriad his- torical anecdotes and their present and cannot be tram, a Belgrade day manifestations. measured only by From the very beginning of the how much is left classic, draws tour, participants learn the most im- portant aspects of the city’s history. in the bottle after both tourists and During the first hundred of metres dinner. separating the starting point from the river coast, we passed through sever- locals to the most Pavle GOLICIN al key locations. Firstly, we travelled iconic old town past the Kalemegdan Fortress. aint Ten and its The tram also passes by the busy restaurant Sanctus haunts. street of Knez Mihailova, which was recently opened in entirely rebuilt after the Turks left the Belgrade. Located in city. a beautiful building closeS to Saint Sava church, Saint Sanctus aims high Mathilde DE KERCHOVE The tram then escorts its passen- gers forward in time, drawing them Ten has been aiming high. We ow that spring is into the 1930s, just between the wars, had ambitious hopes of a fine dining experience in a boutique here, tours are being when the city library was built. It now hotel. organised to show has several different annexes which but falls short However, my first impression people the city. have since been constructed in oth- upon entering the hotel allowed Trams in Belgrade er municipalities. As the tram rides room for second thoughts. I The hotel occupies an old neoclassical building built in 1929 by Stojan Veljković, a famous Belgrade architect of his time. Photo: Facebook/Sanctus hold an iconic place towards the river, the time machine immediately spotted half of Nin this ritual. These vintage, colour- reverses, bringing its travellers back the restaurant’s wall covered glass. While suitable for an upmarket In this version, it barely seemed pre- vanilla ice-cream and caramel sauce. It ful vehicles create a charming and to the end of the Ottoman Empire, with wine bottles which had Sanctus is calm night club, it is overwhelming in a ho- sent. was enjoyable but unsurprising. The guide gives explanations along the journey, in English or Serbian. Photo: BIRN/Mathilde De Kerchove somewhat archaic atmosphere in the in 1837, when the Congregational been left there for design pur- and classy but tel. Grilled tuna steak, served with thinly The food presentation was of a good city, tempting riders to impulsively Church of the Holy Archangel Mi- Savamala, an old and historic neigh- Saint Sava. The building is the second ent angle. Several private companies poses, but in far from perfect The choice of music, something we sliced oriental vegetables slices in spicy standard, but unimaginative, with viola condition. The staff proudly hop on and off, with no regard for any chael was built, on the orders of the bourhood of Belgrade. Recently, the largest Orthodox church in the whole offer this service. hardly ever note, stood out. A relent- oyster and ginger sauce was a true ex- flowers topping every single dish (apart explained that it was so I could eludes perfection initial plans. Prince Miloš Obrenović. district was a headline-grabber, firstly world. Depending on which tour, the sched- see all the bottles in case I had less string of famous pop hits from the ample of “fusion-confusion”. The tuna from the soup). The service left a lot to There is one tram you can take that Mere metres further, the tram runs with the Waterfront project, which At the end of the journey visitors ules and prices are different. While tram any doubts when ordering. and needs some last century, all covers and completely steak itself was done perfectly – tender be desired. While staff were overly- will also teach you a lot about Bel- along the River Sava and traces the induced uprisings in Savamala. The may harbour just one regret: that tours are free of charge and available on The wine list at Saint Ten out of harmony with the atmosphere of and red inside. It had first been coated formal at the entrance, they flipped to grade. Over the course of one hour, outline of its bank. From the tram, neighbourhood contains the central they couldn’t get off the tram when- Friday and Saturday, the bus tour prices consists of approximately 60 polishing. the area. in whole grain mustard, then in raw lin- overly familiar at the table, and became the Tourist Organization of Belgrade you can see people walking or bik- station and the bus station, adjacent ever they wanted. Seeing all the beau- are around five euros for adults. From labels, half of which are ‘local’ At Sanctus two menus are offered – seed and then combined with stir-fried perhaps too personal when explaining offers the opportunity to discover the ing on its edge, and boats of every to a vast refugee camp. This camp tiful monuments, full of history, just March 24th, these buses will run in the (Serbian and from the sur- Casual Luxury (lunch menu) and Fine veggies in oriental sauce and topped dishes, at least for an upmarket hotel. city on a journey passing some of the size transformed into restaurants or and its conditions have attracted through the tram window might be a city every day, with departures from rounding regions). The selec- Duda&Vlada Dining (evening menu). We were hand- with fresh baby spinach leaves, water- Service culminated in the question, most famous and interesting parts of trendy bars for hanging out in good journalists and photo reporters from little bit frustrating. Nikola Pašić square. For boat tours, the tion of foreign wines includes ed both, with our waiter explaining that cress and edible viola flowers. Why? “did we fulfil or exceed your expecta- ‘heavyweight’ brands such as the old town. weather. around the world, especially during For this reason, the Tourist Organi- price is between five and seven euros aint Ten is a new boutique because the restaurant is quite new it is “Arm, fight, and conquer, for fair Eng- tions?” which the young waiter haphaz- Sassicaia, Tignanello, Gaja, to Belgrade Zoo is where the journey The rails lead the tram and its pas- the great cold wave that hit Belgrade zation of Belgrade also offers sight- for adults, depending on the company. name only a few. hotel in the city centre, encouraging guests to familiarise them- land's sake!” – we could not think of a ardly posed to the wrong person in our begins. Located in the Kalemegdan sengers under a bridge linking the old this winter. seeing tours that are somewhat dif- They are generally available for daily However, only 10 wines are close to the Slavija Square. selves with them. While we would have better explanation. company. Fortress, it is impossible to peer into part of the city with ‘Novi Beograd’ or Belgrade’s first modern hostel is ferent, such as bus tours. The BS Tour tours during the week, and for evening available by the glass, includ- A quick glance into the asked to see both anyway, we came to The cou de porc was average. Mari- There is a lot of room for improve- the animal enclosures, because of the New Belgrade municipality. It was also located in Savamala, near the buses allow visitors to visit the city tours on Fridays and Saturdays. ing Prosecco and Porto. This elegant lobby through find the straightforwardness confusing. nated pork neck cooked for eight hours ment in the overall dining experience the high walls. But its inhabitants are built after World War II, in 1957, during central station. The Art Nouveau- and to hop on and off whenever they For every tour, there is the choice severely limits the possibility of slightly-tinted windows The hotel has an in-house bakery and served with sautéed vegetables, at Sanctus, in almost every area. How- secondary to its history, which is de- the period of the Socialist Federal Re- style hostel was built between 1910 want to see some monuments closer between English and Serbian, and matching the otherwise broad piquedS our curiosity. It looked immedi- and it served a small basket of salted crispy prosciutto and bite-size tempura ever, we have to bear in mind that Bel- tailed by the guide. He speaks about public of Yugoslavia. While it was ini- and 1912, by Nikola Nestorović, a up. Of course, these bus tours are for the bus tours, more languages are selection adequately to the ately promising, so we proceeded into and garlic flavoured bread sticks at the cakes. Kajmak tucked into the tempura grade’s top hotel restaurants in general food. the first animals that lived there, tially and officially called the “Bridge of prominent architect at the time. more pleasant when the weather is available, such as German, Italian, the hotel to sample food from their res- beginning of the meal. Beautifully gold- mini-cakes was an interesting detail but score lower than Belgrade’s other top I took Prokupac by Toplički when it was first created in 1936. Fraternity and Unity”, Belgrade citizens After Savamala, while the tram good, and this is why they generally Spanish, French, Greek or Russian. taurant, Sanctus. en and crusty on the outside, while soft the meat was over-prepared and a little restaurants. Only a few hotels in the Vinogradi, which I had sampled After that, the tram takes tourists ended up calling it “Branko’s Bridge”, in drives around the streets of old Bel- start at the end of March or in April. For more information, consult the previously for a wine review, The hotel occupies an old neoclas- on the inside, they could easily com- dry and bland. town can really be proud of the dining along the Sava River, following rails reference to the poet who committed grade, the guide tells anecdotes that And last but not least, some boat website of the Tourist Organization of in order to stay on the safe side. sical building built in 1929 by Stojan pete with some of Belgrade’s top bak- While deserts were not physically on experience offered. Quite a number of laid adjacent to the fortress. As the suicide by jumping from it in 1984. may or may not be true. The tram tours also exist. This option gives Belgrade: www.tob.rs/belgrade-sight- The wine was, for once, poured Veljković, a famous Belgrade architect eries. The thick tomato soup, served the menu, our waiter offered us three them have cutting-edge kitchen equip- tramway joins the river bank, the After the bridge, the guide and the driver then takes the travellers to a tourists and locals the opportunity to seeing-tours/sightseeing-by-bus/bel- into the glass in front of me, of his time, it is listed part of the pro- with mozzarella pieces, basil leaves choices and we decided to try them all. ment and access to top grade ingre- guide encourages visitors to turn tram drive their travellers through final, and major sight. The Church of see the city from a completely differ- grade-open-top-bus-sightseeing which is highly unusual for Bel- tected urban heritage of the City. To ac- and cherry tomatoes was similarly deli- The Sanctus version of baklava, Tur- dients. Saint Ten proved to have the grade restaurants. Nevertheless, commodate the hotel, the building un- cious – a sweet, homemade taste and a key’s famous sweet pastry, was rich in basics covered, but we expect it to take it was way too cold and had derwent a massive reconstruction and nice, creamy structure. nuts, soft and moist, yet limp. It came further steps to enhance the dining ex- obviously been opened long extension project. The result is a strong However, the duck breast carpaccio sprinkled with pomegranate arils. perience, to truly make its mark on Bel- ago, as it didn’t emit its usual contrast between the building’s original – thin slices of marinated meat served They turned to be a great alternative to grade’s dining scene. pleasant fruity aromas. So, despite the effort of the classical part and the sleek, modern ex- with olives, almonds and three types lemon. The chocolate truffles were light Published by staff at Saint Ten to do their best tension. of pepper (red, yellow and green) salsa, on chocolate, more of a noisette pro- Sanctus restaurant to accommodate guests, there The lobby has a varied and smart us- prosciutto powder and honey dressing venience, but very good nevertheless, Saint Ten Hotel is definitely room for improve- age of materials. Velvet, leather, wood – was a dull dish, despite the quantity of beautifully presented. They arrived in a Address: Svetog Save 10, ment, especially if they are aim- and marble create atmosphere of cozy ingredients used. blueberry sauce which complimented Phone: +381 11 4116633, ing for the high-end market. elegance, with a gentle vintage flair. An oriental-style crispy shrimp salad the chocolate beautifully – both visu- Price Guide: 1400-2400 dinars Saint Ten will soon hopefully Calm shades of brown and beige pre- also fell short of expectations. Three ally and in terms of flavours. Thirdly, per person for three courses without join the few hotels in town that A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO vail, with touches of trendy olive green. large shrimp tails were rolled in hand- we sampled the biscuit apple cake with drinks [around €11- €19] do offer the true fine dining -ex The bar area extends back from the made spaghetti-like pasta, fried and OUR PREMIUM perience, but until this happens, NEWS AND ANALYSIS lobby, which then opens into the din- served with a fresh salad of baby spin- CONTENT you can get better value for IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE money in many other restau- ing section, i.e. Sanctus. The floor of the ach, orange, dried tomato and olive ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ rants in town. hotel is all but open, with sections sepa- pieces. While the shrimps were deli- ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” for in-depth analysis, rated by little more than furniture and cious and refreshing in the mix of fla- investigative reports, RESTAURANT KOVAČ lighting. This leaves diners with slightly vours, the use of a shelf-product quality features, interviews, Basic Info Rating modern ethno restaurant commentary and profiles less privacy but generates a more dy- sweet chili salad dressing lent a cheap on the latest business and namic, urban feel. tone to the whole dish. Sadly, such Overall AVERAGE political headlines. It also welcomes plenty of natural small disappointments continued with Wine selection AVERAGE light from the backyard into the res- the main dishes. Wine service AVERAGE taurant area. However, there are some, If there is handmade pasta on the Wine pricing €17 - €185 inconsistencies, such as (somewhat menu, we never skip it. This time we OTHER SERVICES: unsophisticated) bamboo-themed went for creamy truffle pappardelle wallpaper dominating the rear part of with San Daniele prosciutto. The pasta Wine and AVERAGE the dining area, or bathrooms black- was fine. However, in this dish the truf- Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com food pairing ened from floor to ceiling with black fle flavour should dominate the others. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Spanish OPERA, BALLET National Ballet performance AND CLASSICAL CLUBBING in June Belgrade film FRIDAY MARCH 24th Tickets are already on The 47th International Jeunesses Musicales Competition Belgrade, sale for a performance category - Flute, Ilija M. Kolarac AND LIVE MUSIC by one of Europe’s most Arts in brief festival going strong Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 10am highly regarded ballet Milan Radovanović, piano and companies – the Spanish Stefan Đoković, piano, Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana National Ballet – on June Đinđića 179, 8pm FRIDAY MARCH 24th SATURDAY MARCH 25th THURSDAY MARCH 30th • Babe, Mikser House, • DJ Night, Jimmy Woo, 4th at the Sava Centre. Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Performing since 1978, SATURDAY MARCH 25th • Zlatno dob Holivud, Dorćol • Beyond house presents Bliq • Concrete DJ, KPTM, Žorža • RNB Thursday Delight, this company was one of th th The 47 International Jeunesses label night, 20/44, boat on Klemansoa 22, 4am Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Platz, Dobračina 59b, 10pm WEDNESDAY APRIL 5 the most important factors Musicales Competition Belgrade, Sava River, 11pm • Saturday Night Fever - Dj`s • Sky High – Hip Hop and RNB, in the popularisation of category - Flute, Ilija M. Kolarac rd • Flesbek 90`s & 2000`s - Boško Pešić & George, Mr Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, MONDAY APRIL 3 • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, Mr Flamenco and other Span- Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 10am ish dance styles over the Opera: Eugene Onegin Dj Alex Tic, Industrija Bar, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, (Tchaikovsky), The National Theatre, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm 11pm • Profond w. Zlatnichi, DOT, • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan 11pm last 40 years. Tickets cost Francuska 1, 7pm between €20 and €45 2 Chellos: Luka Šulić, Stjepan Hauser, • Hang on until the party • Danijel Čerhanov, Dooshan Francuska 6, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm th depending on seating. Kombank Arena, Bulevar Arsenija is over, Mr Stefan Braun, and Goran Starčević • Seun Kuti & Egypt 80, • Albatre, Elektropionir, THURSDAY APRIL 6 Čarnojevića 58, 8pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita Petra Cetinjska 15, 9pm Carlo th • Vandalism RETRO Groove, MONDAY MARCH 27 • Danijel Čerhanov, Goran • Kid Kim and Nikola Vemić, 8, 10pm Domeniconi TUESDAY APRIL 4th DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm Starčević and N.I.C.O on Mladost, Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • Slow Motion Suicide, to close Guitar Dušan Savković, clarinet and Miona percussions Brankow, • Cojke, Ludost, Karadjordjeva Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Sky High – Hip Hop and RNB, Barbul, piano, Belgrade Cultural Art Centre, Trg republike 5, 8pm Crnogorska 12, 11pm 44, 11pm • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, st Nemanjina 4, 11pm 11pm • Dejan Milićević, Mladost, • Nexie, Nenad Jovanović, FRIDAY MARCH 31 Another successful Bel- TUESDAY MARCH 28th Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Nemanja Vanović Vuk grade Guitar Art Festival • Miss Millie, Ludost, • The Black Lodge Night, is coming to an end. The Ballet: The Picture of Dorian Gray Smiljanić, DEE, Gadost, (Logunov), The National Theatre, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota closing night will fea- Francuska 1, 7:30pm • Mancha and Panic + guests, • DJ Prema - RNB Night, Stefana 115, 11pm ture Carlo Domeniconi Faculty of Music – Students of Cello, Gadost, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Hang on until the party & Guitar Integration at UK Parobrod, Kapetan Mišina 6a, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, Beograd, 8pm • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, Strahinjića is over, Mr Stefan Braun, Dom Omladine on March 11pm th Bana 47, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm TRA T T O R I A 25 . Domeniconi is a WEDNESDAY MARCH 29th • DJ Lucky, Witch Bar, Pariska • RNB Music by DJ • DJ Alex Tic- - Flashback, world-renowned Italian 13, 10pm PIZZER I A Opera: Othello (Verdi), The National Borchenzzy, Witch Bar, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, classical guitarist who • Bokee & Joma Maja, DOT, Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm Pariska 13, 10pm 11pm has been touring for over Francuska 6, 11pm 30 years and composing th • NO fckn MERCY, DOT, • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, Strahinjića THURSDAY MARCH 30 • Jay Lumen, Depo, Travnička for over 50 years. Guitar Francuska 6, 11pm Bana 47, 10pm 3, 10pm Nebojsina 8 Integration is an ensemble Opera Gala RTS Symphony • Noizz Awakening, Plastic • Dj`s Latmun Hot Creations, Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Dj Brka & Ichisan, 20/44, boat 011/3863-999 made up of six classical Club, Takovske and Nexie, Iva Arifaj & Lady Dee, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm on Sava River, 11pm [email protected] guitarists, all from differ- Ballet: Don Quixote (Minkus), The Dalmatinske corner, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm • Soul Tangler (live) USA www.restoranamici.rs ent parts of the former National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm • Goblini, Bunker 13 and • Verbreiten Records Faculty of Music – Students of Violin, & Strahinja Arbutina, Yugoslavia. Tickets cost Neprijatelj Prelzi Zeku, showcase, KPTM, Žorža Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota five euros. Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 8pm Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, Klemansoa 22, 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm 9pm • Toolroom live, Norwegian SATURDAY APRIL 1st • GE6: Total Eclipse, • Nirvana Unplugged New BELEXPOCENTAR, Španskih shortfilms at Plastic Club, Takovske and Opera: Tosca (Puccini), The National York, Centre for Culture boraca 74A, 11PM DKSG Dalmatinske corner, 11pm Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm and Education, Rakovica • Seine, Elektropionir, Cetinjska th municipality, Miška Kranjca 7, • Tamara Ristić aka Kezz, 15, 8:30pm Studentski Grad Cultural WEDNESDAY APRIL 5 Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Centre will be hosting a 9pm • Seun Kuti & Egypt 80, Dreaming Awake / Philip Glass • Banda Drvena, Akademija 28, 9pm BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita Petra night of Norwegian short – Concert on the Occasion 80th th The film “Triest, Yugoslavia” by Alessio Bozzer (2017) portrays the Ponte Rosso market as a favourite Photo: Courtesy of Martovski Festival Nemanjina 28, 10pm • Swans + Little Annie, Dom 8, 10pm films on March 29 , start- trade destination of Yugoslavs during the 70s and 80s. Birth Anniversary, Ilija M. Kolarac ing at 8pm. A total of eight Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm • Makao BitefArtCafe, Omladine, Makedonska 22, KOLARAC films will be shown and documentaries, short films, animations er local daily, adding that the general Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm 9pm st th SATURDAY APRIL 1 and experimental film and video art. idea is to create a festival that is impor- • Fitnes, Elektropionir, Cetinjska PROGRAMME the entire program is 88 The 64 annual EXHIBITIONS • KKN, Elektropionir, Cetinjska It has also been a very important tant for the profession, one that would 15, 9pm minutes long. Entrance is AND EVENTS 15, 9pm • Ilija Djokovic all night long, free. Belgrade Docu- springboard for many producers and be very intense and full of workshops • Girls, Boys and Toys, th DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm directors who are now considered the as well as showing films from morning FRIDAY MARCH 24 BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita Petra th • DJ Prema - RNB Night, THURSDAY, MARCH 30 Production: Centre for Music Tribute to Philip mentary and cream of the crop in the region. Big to night each day. 8, 10pm Group Exhibition: “Painters, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, Admission free Glass at Kolarac names in Serbian cinematography “I believe that this festival will be able Warriors, Witnesses”, Gallery of the • Mojo Dogs, Akademija 28, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Short Film Fes- such Zlatko Bourek, Ante Babaja, Vlat- to advance national cinematography Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, th Nemanjina 28, 10pm • DJ Lacosta, Jimmy Woo, Opera Gala RTS Symphony FRIDAY, APRIL 7 There will be a special ko Gilić, Krsto Papić and Stole Popov even more and become a platform for Knez Mihajlova 35, 12pm Group Exhibition: Digital Art • Guns N' Roses by Jailbreak & Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Orchestra concert at the Ilija M. tival once again all got their start at the Belgrade Docu- domestic and foreign authors to see a Department, Faculty of Media and Pearl Jam tribute, Božidarac, • Lyktum Live, KPTM, Žorža Concert Hall, 8pm Kolarac Endowment on mentary and Short Film Festival. cross-section of what has been going Communication, Studentski Grad st Belgrade Philharmonic th Radoslava Grujića 38pm Klemansoa 22, 11pm SUNDAY, APRIL 1 April 5 to celebrate the showcases some One of the greatest success stories on the in the film world this year, along Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića Orchestra th 179, 7pm , Plastic, 80 birthday of Philip of the festival is Dušan Vukotić and his with actually relevant awards,” he said. • Petar Dundov For Adventurers 4 Exhibition: Nenad Racković, Štab th Concert Hall, 7pm Glass, one of the most of the country´s animated masterpiece Surogat, which The discussions and lectures that Gallery, Crnogorska 10 (Savamala), 8pm SUNDAY MARCH 26 Takovska 34, 11pm Conductor: Eiji Oue Kolibri Classics important contemporary ended up winning an Academy Award will be held in between screenings are Exhibition: SET + SETTING, Ulična • Jonas Kopp (Tresor / Soloist: Mirjana Nešković, brightest young Galerija, Čavketov Pasaž / Bezistan, Conductor: Ljiljana classical composers. for best animated short film in 1962. open to everyone and serve as a plat- • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, PoleGroup), Drugstore, violin 8pm FREE COPY Several Glass pieces will Young filmmakers in Serbia are well form for young filmmakers and film Nemanjina 4, 11pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Ranđelović Programme: R. Wagner, P. cinematic talents. Exhibition: Ana Radovanović, Pro3or, be performed and will Koče Popovića 9 (Savamala), 9pm • Wheels of Steel, Ludost, 11pm Piano: Dragomir Bratić Stojanović, aware of the festival’s importance and students to discuss their processes, mark the first time that prominence throughout the years, hold consultations with experienced Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • Absolum :: Myrah :: Orianis, M. Mussorgsky SATURDAY MARCH 25th nd this music was ever played which is why hundreds of films are sub- veterans and leave the festival with Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Plastic Club, Takovske and SUNDAY, APRIL 2 Production: Belgrade live in Serbia. Tickets cost David GALIĆ mitted every year to the festival. valuable experiences that they can use Exhibition: Pavle Beljanski Art Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 MONDAY MARCH 27th Dalmatinske corner, 11pm Philharmonic Orchestra Concert Hall, 11am five euros. "I'm currently enjoying the short in the future. Collection, Dom Vojske Srbije, Braće Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić • Luna, Mikser House, Jugovića 19, 12pm Piano duo Tea Dimitrijević THURSDAY, APRIL 13th ack under a new and films that were sent to me by the cu- Another interesting facet of the fes- BIRN editorial team: • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan Karađorđeva 46, 9pm and Dejan Subotić Archaeological catchier name, Bel- rators of the festival,” director Pavle tival this year is that there will be a MONDAY MARCH 27th Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, • Radost, Grad Cultural Centre, st Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Programme: Schmit, Concert Hall, 8pm Film Festival at grade’s annual film fes- Vučković, who is on the panel this year, special concert on April 1 , featuring a [email protected] Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm Exhibition: Saveta and Slobodan Moszkowski, Despić RTS Symphony Orchestra Kinoteka tival is now called the told the local daily newspaper Danas. reunion gig by one of Belgrade’s better Sales & Marketing: Marija th Mašić, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg TUESDAY MARCH 28 • Makao BitefArtCafe, Martovski Festival (the Another panel member, writer and indie rock bands of the last decade – Au- republike 5, 8pm th Petrović Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm The 19 International March Festival) and will film critic Đorđe Bajić, also told Danas topark. th Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, • Vesele Osamdesete Live!, Archaeological Film Festival take place from March 30th to April 2nd that after starting to watch the films that The concert will mark five years to TUESDAY MARCH 28 rd B [email protected] will be held from 23 to Nemanjina 4, 11pm Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića at Dom Omladine. have been submitted for the festival: “It the day since Autopark played their last Stanley Kubrick Movies, Yugoslav th Subscription & Distribution: • Lisa Hannigan, Dom 3, 8pm 30 March at the Yugoslav After starting out in Pula back in 1954, was immediately clear to me that it is show on the very same Dom Omladine Film Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 5:30pm Goran Knezevic Film Archive, Kinoteka. The Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Vesele Osamdesete Live!, then known as the Yugoslav Film Fes- going to be hard to pick the best ones, stage. Tickets for the show cost four eu- th festival will engage not only THURSDAY MARCH 30 +381 11 4030 303 9pm Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića tival, the event moved to Belgrade in which makes me very happy." ros, reduced to two euros if you present [email protected] professionals, but also those • 1000mods /GR/ & 3, 8pm 1960 where it has remained ever since. Besides the name change to the Mar- a ticket for any of the films being shown The Night of Movie Trailers – Mondo • Richard Clayderman, Sava who are attracted to ancient What makes this festival so unique tovski Festival, there are two other big on that day. Bizar, Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Methadone Skies, Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 8pm Printing: POLITIKA štamparija SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES civilizations and cultures. and interesting is that it serves specifi- changes. One is that Dom Omladine Opening the show will be the young Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Centre, Milentija Popovića 9, d.o.o. Screenings will be held cally as a platform for young, domestic has decided to take on the organisation alternative rockers Hod, who just re- FRIDAY MARCH 31st 9pm 9pm ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight every day, starting at 7pm filmmakers, allowing them to reach a of the entire festival and the other is the cently released their debut album Peter Jackson Movies, Yugoslav Film nd at the Yugoslav Film Archive wider audience. appointment of a new artistic director; Redak Vazduh (Thin Air). COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 th SUNDAY APRIL 2 Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 10am WEDNESDAY MARCH 29 and tickets are available Circulation: 4,000 The festival holds an open competi- Boban Jevtić, currently director of the For all information regarding film at their ticket office. The tion every year where local directors Serbian Film Centre. screenings and ticket prices, visit the WEDNESDAY APRIL 5th • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, Mr Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs programme can be found at and producers are able to submit films “The festival is once again turning Martovski Festival’s official website: Nemanjina 4, 11pm Belgrade Dance Festival, Belgrade Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade www.kinoteka.org.rs that span a variety of genres, including into a national one,” he told Blic, anoth- www.martovski.rs Drama Theatre, Mileševska 64, 8pm 11pm • Čutura, Elektropionir, Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. Cetinjska 15, 9pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT All the atmosphere of a gritty Kalemegdan underground rock club minus the music Bunkers, dungeons and cover bands playing domestic pop hits While Čorba from the past several decades. While an Austro-Hungarian well not the coolest musical concept, the Kafe has all the bottom line is that the bands play mu- lie beneath the surface of aesthetics of a sic that a lot of people like to listen and dance to. The closest it gets to being a Belgrade’s Kalemegdan Park. noisy rock venue, rock bar is booking an AC/DC or Rolling Stones tribute band, but such nights are the sounds few and far between. Siri SOLLIE Park and provides you Čorba Kafe is no doubt successful in with information about the you hear might its concept – demonstrated by the fact he rich and various gates of the Kale- that it has recently expanded and dou- complex megdan fortress, as well as surprise you. bled in size. The old bar space was very history of battles and sieges that have Belgrade can taken place there. basic – a long counter and a lot of seat- be difficult The next stop on the ing. The difference now is that there is to grasp for a tour is the so-called Roman a small corridor leading from the bar David GALIĆ Tnewbie. The various people well, where you will first area to a new room in which you’ll find that have passed through get to experience Kalemeg- he Savamala neigh- more seating and a stage for the bands and occupied the region dan underground. bourhood is widely to play on. are many – from the Celts To secure the water regarded as one of the The layout is hardly spectacular or in the 3rd Century BC to the supply for soldiers and hipper places to go bar exciting – it is just two rooms connected Ottoman Turks and Austro- residents, the Austro- hopping. One haunt, by a hallway. However, this does mean Hungarians, who were Hungarians started to build Čorba Kafe, doesn’t that now you get a say in the noise lev- present until the beginning a 60-metre well during the th Treally fit that description. However, it els when you’re choosing where to sit. of the 20 century. reconstruction of the Kale- doesn’t hurt to be the black sheep of the You’re not going to be able to see or hear Fortunately, the op- megdan fortress between portunity to get a detailed 1717 and 1732. neighbourhood, because sometimes it the band if you’re sitting in the room introduction to some of the The underground well makes you stand out. with the stage and you won’t be able to historical legacies of Singi- is said to have given Alfred That’s certainly the case with Čorba talk to your friends if you’re in the same dunum (the ancient name Hitchcock the creeps when The underground well is said to have given Alfred Hitchcock the creeps when he visited it in the 1960s. Kafe, because it always seems to be room as the band. for Belgrade) is offered by he visited it in the 1960s. heaving with people. Located right Navigating from one end of it to the the tourist company Go2 Next stop at the tour is under the Brankov Bridge, across the other is pretty hard on the weekends Serbia. the cold-war bunker which street from hipster magnet KC Grad, when the bar is packed. The corridor In 2012, Go2 Serbia functioned as a training Čorba Kafe sticks out like a sore thumb that connects the two rooms is narrow started to offer the Belgrade space for engineers and in its neighbourhood. and often gets clogged by all the people. underground tour. The tour soldiers during the period On first glance I’d be willing to bet that And while Belgrade is known as reveals the dungeons, bun- of tense relations between a member of Riblja Čorba – probably Ser- being the smoking capital of Europe, kers and a well that are hid- Tito’s Yugoslavia and the bia’s most popular hard rock band ever Čorba Kafe might actually be the smok- den underneath Kalemeg- USSR from 1948 to 1955 – – is the owner of the club or is involved iest bar I’ve ever been in. Even smokers dan Park and which were known as the Informbiro built by various nations period. in it in some way. The bar’s decor is com- have to step outside every now and that settled in Belgrade Maybe the most intrigu- pletely made up of rock memorabilia then to get some fresh air. On Fridays throughout the ages. ing part of the tour is the hanging on the walls, with a high propor- and Saturdays, Čorba Kafe really is at The idea to open the visit to the old gunpowder tion of it somehow related to the band. maximum capacity and, it certainly underground sites of Kale- storage site that was built If not a divey rock bar, it could also seems that security up front lets in megdan Park to the public by the Austro-Hungarians pass for a place frequented by bikers. more people than it perhaps should. came in response to the re- between 1718 and 1720. But the clientele is nobody of the sort. So if you want to get check it out, lease of the book "Beograd The site was home to Mostly younger, 20-somethings flock to making a reservation may be in order. Čorba Kafe always seems to be heaving with people. Photo:Facebook/Čorba Kafe Ispod Beograda" (Belgrade the famous Barutana the venue to enjoy live music. And con- There doesn’t seem to be a coat check, underneath Belgrade) the parties of the 1990s. It now trary to what you might imagine, most so if you get in and can’t find a seat, Despite its various negative points, ing. The prices are right, the bands they Čorba Kafe same year. accommodates ancient of it is pop. you’re going to be reduced to either Čorba Kafe really does what it does very book are perfect for the demographic Address: Braće Krsmanović 3 Zoran Nikolić, the author marble statues and The musical programme is hardly wearing or holding your coat for the en- well, and its atmosphere wouldn’t be and there’s no other place quite like it in Contact: + 381 69 26 22 509 of the above-mentioned sarcophagus dating back book, is one of the main to between the 1st and 4th inspiring. It mostly consists of Belgrade tirety of the night. quite the same if it was too accommodat- the neighbourhood of Savamala. www.corbakafe.com tour leaders at Go2 Serbia centuries AD. and offer tours in both The tour is topped off English and Serbian. The with a wine tasting at an Jazz fusion legend Chick Darko Rundek tours start at Belgrade’s city underground wine cellar in library, which is situated downtown Belgrade, close Corea in Belgrade announces summer tour where the legendary Singi- to Savamala. The guided dunum ’castrum’ (fortress) tours last for two and a half ne of the most respected and influential jazz/fusion key- est known as the leader of legendary Yugo-rock band Haus- was built during the 2nd hours and tickets cost €12. boardists of all time, Chick Corea, is coming to Bel- tor, Darko Rundek will begin a new tour in Belgrade on Century. Tours are held four times grade with his famed Elektric Band. This group fea- June 15th to celebrate 20 years since his first solo record By crossing the road, the a week. For information tures nothing but heavyweights, including Dave came out. That album, Apocalypso, is also being re- tour guide leads you to the about tour dates visit www. Weckl on drums, John Patitucci on bass and mastered and released on vinyl for the occasion. entrance of Kalemegdan go2serbia.net. Ancient marble statues dating back to between the 1st and 4th centuries AD. Photos: BIRN/Siri Sollie FrankO Gambale on guitar. This will be a special tour during AnotherB great thing about this show is that Rundek wanted which Corea will celebrate his 75th birthday. It’s amazing how to keep the band diverse and recruited people from various agile his fingers and mind are with all of the complexity that generations, including a 20-year-old saxophone player and comes with playing Elektric Band material. The group blends musicians from well-known contemporary rock groups from rock, jazz, Latino music and funk into one exciting stew, and Zagreb like Porto Morto, Cul-de-Sac and TBF. Tickets are on sale sound more futuristic today than ever. The show will be held on now for ten euros. The outdoor gig will be held at the Tašmajdan July 1st at the Kombank Arena. Tickets cost between €23 and €35. Park.

AIRLINE TICKETS FOR THE WHOLE WORLD Indie stars Interpol Swans ready to Apocalyptica Iranian techno Vlatko Stefanovski back in Serbia mesmerize Belgrade fans playing Metallica again innovator at Drugstore to play with military band

Probably one of the most successful This will probably be one of the three Apocalyptica have made a career out of Aril Brikha will be playing a live set at Another legendary Balkan guitarist, American alternative rock bands of the most important rock concerts of the year interpreting heavy metal and hard rock Drugstore on April 7th. After moving Vlatko Stefanovski, has announced last decade, Interpol is coming back to in Belgrade. Swans are coming back after songs with classical instruments. And that’s from Iran to Sweden as a child, Brikha an April concert. He will be playing at Serbia. The last time they played the many years and this will be their last tour exactly what they are doing on this new started listening to Depeche Mode, the Sava Centre with the Slovenian country was at the Exit Festival in 2011. in this form before the band embarks on a tour, for the first time in 20 years. If you love Front 242 and Jean-Michel Jarre as a Military Big Band. He will be playing They are playing the Kalemegdan for- new journey. One of the most influential and the sound of cellos and love the biggest child, which led him to creating Detroit- some of his own famous songs along tress on August 13th, but you can already boundary-pushing rock groups of the last metal band in the history of the genre this style techno with a creative twist. with a bundle of funk, jazz and soul get tickets from the Eventim box office. 30 years, this is a show not to be missed. It’s is a must-see. The concert will be held at Veteran Belgrade DJs Boža Podunavac standards. The show will be held on They cost between €15 and €22 depend- going down on March 25th at Dom Omladine Hala Sportova on April 4th and tickets cost and Dušan Kačarević will be joining the April 22th and tickets cost between ten www.flyflytravel.com ing on seating. and tickets cost €30. between €18 and €22 depending on seating. festivities and tickets cost eight euros. and 20 euros. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, March 24 - Thursday, April 06, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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