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Home Tours Guides News About Us FAQ Contact Us Field Guides Tour Report The Heart of 2018

Jan 27, 2018 to Feb 10, 2018 Marcelo Padua & Marcelo Barreiros For our tour description, itinerary, past triplists, dates, fees, and more, please VISIT OUR TOUR PAGE.

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Salvin's was just one of the amazing we saw on the pelagic trip out of Valparaiso. Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

Chile is an extraordinary country with an incredible diversity of and breathtaking sceneries but what makes this great country so diverse is exactly what makes exploring Chile such a difficult task. The country is over 2600 miles long and on average 170 miles wide, a geography dictated by the Mountains and for that reason exploring the country from north to south is a monumental task. We have decided to offer this introductory tour to Chile focusing in the central area of the country and its endemics.

We started things off in the gorgeous town of Puerto Varas overlooking the Osorno volcano and the Llanquihue Lake. From there we were able to explore Chiloe Island and enjoy great looks at Kelp , Magellanic and both Humboldt and Magellanic . Our tour continued northwards to the forests of the lake district, where we explored both the forest and high Andean habitats, enjoying great looks at Yellow- bridled , Dark-faced Ground-tyrant and White-browed Ground-tyrant feeding around snow fields in a volcano crater, while the in forests below our hotel we enjoyed great looks at Magellanic , the wonderful Black-throated Huet-huet, Rufous-legged and many others.

After a brief stop at Temuco we flew north to Santiago where our birding in Matorral was as productive as it gets as we found many of Chile’s central endemics with great looks at Chilean , Crag Chilia, White-throated and Dusky-tailed Canastero but the true highlights during our stay in Santiago came from our incursions to high Andean habitats where we got great views of Andean and the scarce Diademed - which we saw remarkably well.

The last days of our tour were divided between the forests of Altos de Lircay and the coastal town of Vina del Mar. In the first we had great looks at Chestnut-throated Huet-huet and more Green-backed Firecrowns than you could shake a stick at and great numbers of White-throated Treerunners and Thorn-tailed Rayadito. We also took advantage of our proximity to the Maule Lake to enjoy looks at thousands of water fowl. In the coast we lodged ourselves in the lovely Oceanic hotel with Inca , Chilean Seaside Cinclodes and Gray as our neighbors.

We also enjoyed a pelagic trip from the neighboring town of Valparaiso that, although too long, was very productive with great looks at Salvin’s, Black- browed and Royal along with White-chinned , Buller’s Shearwater and Northern and Southern Giant-Petrels.

This tour was everything we hoped it would have been. A lovely sample of Chile’s birds with great weather, fabulous food and unforgettable scenery.

Thanks for joining us and we hope to see you all again on a trail somewhere.

-Marcelo Padua and Marcelo Barreiros.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 1 KEYS FOR THIS LIST One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

One of the highlights of the tour was this Diademed Sandpiper-Plover! Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

BIRDS Tinamidae () ( perdicaria) – One of the hardest birds to get on this tour! Great looks of at least four birds on the way to Farellones mountain. [E] (, Geese, and Waterfowl) BLACK­NECKED (Cygnus melancoryphus) – Many birds on the ferry station at Chiloe island. (Oressochen melanopterus) – When we visited the Yeso reservoir a flock of geese flew by as we prepared to walk out to look for the Diademed Sandpiper­plover. At the time we identified them as Upland Geese but Jeanette's photo revealed that although there was one in the group, the majority of them were Andean Geese. Another great that was identified thanks to Jeanette's great photos. UPLAND GOOSE (Chloephaga picta)

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 2 (Chloephaga hybrida) – Great looks during our boat trip at Chiloe Island. FLIGHTLESS STEAMER­ (Tachyeres pteneres) – We saw a few individuals during the ferry crossing over the Chacao canal. CRESTED DUCK (Lophonetta specularioides) – Six birds seen in the scope at Yeso area. SPECTACLED DUCK (Speculanas specularis) (Merganetta armata) – Bob spotted a female on the way down from the Yeso reservoir. Great spot, man! (Spatula cyanoptera) – A couple individuals seen well at Batuco wetlands and later on the Maule lake.

One of three species of we saw on the tour, this is the . Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

RED SHOVELER (Spatula platalea) CHILOE WIGEON (Mareca sibilatrix) – A beautiful duck, seen a few times on the tour. YELLOW­BILLED PINTAIL (Anas georgica) YELLOW­BILLED TEAL (FLAVIROSTRIS) (Anas flavirostris flavirostris) – Very similar to the Yellow­billed Pintail and often seen side by side, but easily distinguishable by its darker head and different profile in the water. LAKE DUCK (Oxyura vittata) – Several individuals on the Maule lake. Odontophoridae (New World ) QUAIL (Callipepla californica) – These birds were introduced in Chile 50 ago and now are pretty much widespread over the open fields. Podicipedidae () WHITE­TUFTED (Rollandia rolland) – Seen a few times on the tour. PIED­BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps) GREAT GREBE (Podiceps major) – Recognizable from afar by their long neck; in the middle of hundreds of ducks and teals on the Maule lake. Spheniscidae (Penguins) HUMBOLDT (Spheniscus humboldti) – A single bird seen with hundreds of Magellanic Penguins in the colonies.

A big group of Magellanic Penguins warming up on the Penguins Island. Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 3 (Spheniscus magellanicus) – We had a few birds during the Chacao canal crossing and great looks of the colonies in a boat trip on Chiloe Island. Diomedeidae (Albatrosses) SALVIN'S ALBATROSS (Thalassarche salvini) – This was the most common Albatross seen during the pelagic trip at Valparaiso. BLACK­BROWED ALBATROSS (Thalassarche melanophris) – Seen from the distance during the Chacao canal crossing and fantastic looks later, on the pelagic trip, including young birds. ROYAL ALBATROSS (NORTHERN) (Diomedea epomophora sanfordi) – One of the largest Albatross in the world, this guy has over 3.5m wingspan! Two birds seen on the pelagic. (Shearwaters and Petrels) SOUTHERN GIANT­ (Macronectes giganteus) – Distinguished from the Northern Giant­petrel by the point color, which is reddish on this one and grayish for the Northern one. NORTHERN GIANT­PETREL (Macronectes halli) – We had one bird flying really fast close to the boat on the pelagic trip. Its identification came after the fact, when a photo from Jeanette confirmed suspicion that it was a Northern Giant­petrel. PINK­FOOTED SHEARWATER (Ardenna creatopus) – Great looks during the pelagic trip, including a bird seated on the water close to us. BULLER'S SHEARWATER (Ardenna bulleri) – Relative similar to Pink­footed Shearwater, this bird has much more white on the back. (Ardenna grisea) – Probably the most common Shearwater seen on the pelagic trip. PERUVIAN DIVING­PETREL (Pelecanoides garnotii)

The Magellanic Cormorant is one of the most beautiful of the . Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 4 Hydrobatidae (Storm­Petrels) WILSON'S STORM­PETREL (Oceanites oceanicus) – Nice looks at these fast little birds flying close to the water. ( and ) PERUVIAN (Sula variegata) – Common on the pelagic trip. Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags) RED­LEGGED CORMORANT ( gaimardi) – Beautiful Cormorant, with the white patch on the head. (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) MAGELLANIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax magellanicus) – We saw a few birds during the ferry crossing to Chiloe island. (Phalacrocorax bougainvillii) – Great looks in the scope on the Oceanic Rock, at Viña del Mar. IMPERIAL CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax atriceps atriceps) – Several individuals seen at Puerto Varas and from the ferry, crossing the Chacao canal. Pelecanidae () PERUVIAN (Pelecanus thagus) – Gorgeous huge bird seen really close to the boat on the pelagic trip. Ardeidae (, , and ) COCOI ( cocoi) GREAT (Ardea alba)

Participant Jeanette Shores got this wonderful image of a soaring .

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 5 (Egretta thula) EGRET (Bubulcus ) BLACK­CROWNED NIGHT­HERON (DUSKY) (Nycticorax nycticorax obscurus) ( and ) WHITE­FACED IBIS (Plegadis chihi) BLACK­FACED IBIS (Theristicus melanopis) – Common in agricultural fields especially on the first half of the tour. Cathartidae (New World ) BLACK (Coragyps atratus) ( aura) ANDEAN CONDOR (Vultur gryphus) – Majestic bird. It's a pleasure to see these birds flying over the Andes. (, , and Kites) WHITE­TAILED (Elanus leucurus) – Nice looks in the scope for a few minutes during a nice stop on the mouth of Maipu river, on the way to Viña del Mar. CINEREOUS (Circus cinereus) – A single bird seen flying over the fields in Chamiza area.

This Plumbeous put on a nice show for us as it high-stepped along the edge of a pond. Photo by participant Jane Barnette.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 6 HARRIS'S (Parabuteo unicinctus) – Three birds seen from the bus on the way down to Miriam and Nacho's house. (Geranoaetus polyosoma) – Seen many times on the tour with different . BLACK­CHESTED BUZZARD­ (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) – Particularly nice views of one bird flying with prey, apparently a piece of a . Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and ) SPOT­FLANKED GALLINULE (Porphyriops melanops) – Nice bird seen in our friends Miriam and Nacho's backyard during lunch. PLUMBEOUS RAIL ( sanguinolentus) – Two very cooperative birds came in closer to the house just after the Spot­flanked Gallinule showed up. RED­GARTERED (Fulica armillata) – The most common Coot seen on the tour. RED­FRONTED COOT (Fulica rufifrons) – We saw five birds in Nacho's backyard pond. WHITE­WINGED COOT (Fulica leucoptera) – Distinguished by the other two Coot species by their dark yellow shield, while the others have some red color on it. (Stilts and ) BLACK­NECKED STILT (WHITE­BACKED) (Himantopus mexicanus melanurus) Haematopodidae () AMERICAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus palliatus) – The most common Oystercatcher on the tour. BLACKISH OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus ater) – We spent the first two days looking for this guy and finally got it in Puerto Montt. The differences between this guy and the American Oystercatcher are: this one has the same black tone on the head and back, and it has a yellow eye ring; the American Oystercatcher has a darker head and red eye ring. MAGELLANIC OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus leucopodus) – Nice looks at two adults and their baby bird near to the Oceanic Rock in Viña del Mar.

A bunch of Peruvian Pelicans were close to our boat on the pelagic trip. Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 7 (Plovers and ) BLACK­BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola) – A few birds near the mouth of the Maipo River. SOUTHERN (CHILENSIS/FRETENSIS) (Vanellus chilensis chilensis) (Charadrius collaris) DIADEMED SANDPIPER­PLOVER (Phegornis mitchellii) – One of the targets of the trip. An adult bird, apparently incubating, was seen on the Yeso reservoir area. I'm sure it was one of the highlights moments on the trip. Thinocoridae () GRAY­BREASTED ( orbignyianus) – Great looks of this discreet bird feeding near the creek on Yeso. Scolopacidae ( and Allies) WHIMBREL (HUDSONIAN) (Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus) HUDSONIAN (Limosa haemastica) RUDDY (Arenaria interpres) – A few birds seen close to our hotel in Viña del Mar. (Calidris virgata) – Three birds foraging on the rocks in Viña del Mar on the last morning of the tour. (Calidris alba) – Big flocks dancing with the waves near to the Maipo river mouth.

The Magellanic was one of the “most wanted” birds of the trip, and we saw them well! Here is an elegant male with his funny crest. Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 8 BAIRD'S SANDPIPER (Calidris bairdii) SOUTH AMERICAN (MAGELLANIC) (Gallinago paraguaiae magellanica) – Two birds seen on the Yeso reservoir area. ( flavipes) (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers) ANDEAN ( serranus) BROWN­HOODED GULL (Chroicocephalus maculipennis) GRAY GULL ( modestus) FRANKLIN'S GULL (Leucophaeus pipixcan) – Very similar to the Brown­hooded Gull while juveniles, these guys present a pale pinkish belly during the breeding season. ( dominicanus) – The most on the tour. INCA (Larosterna inca) – Maybe the most beautiful of the Tern species, this bird has a white "mustache" that makes it unmistakable. (Sterna hirundinacea) ( elegans) – Easily recognizable by those different feathers on the head. (CINERASCENS) (Rynchops niger cinerascens)

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves) ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) – We left early for a We saw a pair of “Magellanic” Great Horned during the day at Farellones mountains. Photo by pelagic trip from Valparaiso and as we distanced guide Marcelo Barreiros. ourselves from the coast a Rock Pigeon that was roosting in the boat woke up and flew away. A long ways from the coast. CHILEAN PIGEON (Patagioenas araucana) – Similar to the Rock Pigeon but easily told apart from it by its white collar. PICUI GROUND­DOVE (Columbina picui) BLACK­WINGED GROUND­DOVE (Metriopelia melanoptera) – A high altitude specialist that was seen nicely around Farellones. EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata) Strigidae (Owls) (MAGELLANIC) (Bubo virginianus magellanicus) – Great looks at two birds found on their day roosting tree. AUSTRAL PYGMY­OWL (Glaucidium nana) – Gorgeous tiny creature seen for a few minutes in the scope after lunch at El Taique lodge. (Athene cunicularia) – A few birds seen near the lampa and batuco wetlands. RUFOUS­LEGGED OWL (Strix rufipes) – Outstanding views in the scope for everyone on a

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 9 chilly morning at Antillanca. Trochilidae () GREEN­BACKED FIRECROWN (Sephanoides sephaniodes) – Very abundant at the feeders at Altos de Lircay. WHITE­SIDED HILLSTAR (Oreotrochilus leucopleurus) – Two birds seen briefly feeding near the ground at the Yeso area. GIANT (Patagona gigas gigas) – The biggest Hummer in the world, perfectly seen for a few minutes feeding on some flowers by the roadside. Alcedinidae () RINGED (PATAGONIAN) (Megaceryle torquata stellata) Picidae (Woodpeckers) ( lignarius) – Seen a few times on the tour. ( pitius) – Great looks at a pair of birds at Chiloe island. ( magellanicus) – A bird wanted for everyone in the group for sure! We had two wonderful encounters with males during the days in Puyehue National Park. (Falcons and Caracaras) MOUNTAIN ( megalopterus) – Two birds seen from the van on the way up to the Yeso reservoir. ( chimango) – The most common raptor on the tour. (Falco sparverius) (Falco peregrinus) – A huge female flying over our heads while we're looking for a Tapaculo at Farellones. Psittacidae (New World and African ) AUSTRAL PARAKEET (Enicognathus ferrugineus) SLENDER­BILLED PARAKEET (Enicognathus leptorhynchus) – Another Chilean endemic bird seen in the scope in a city park in Temuco. [E] BURROWING PARAKEET (CHILEAN) (Cyanoliseus patagonus bloxami) – Awesome Parakeet seen really well twice on the tour, including a huge flock with over 150 birds seen while we had lunch at Casa Silva winery. The Chilean subspecies is endangered. Rhinocryptidae () CHESTNUT­THROATED HUET­HUET ( castaneus) – A forest trail at Altos de Lircay produced a great encounter with this special tapaculo after it climbed up a tree just a few feet away from our group. BLACK­THROATED HUET­HUET (Pteroptochos tarnii) – We heard it a few times on our first day at Puyehue NP and we saw a very cooperative bird crossing the trail close to the group on the second morning over there. That was awesome!

We saw two majestic Royal Albatrosses during our pelagic trip. Here, one of them shows off its amazing wingspan. Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 10 (Pteroptochos megapodius) – This Chilean endemic bird has strong big feet to run through the hills! [E] WHITE­THROATED TAPACULO ( albicollis) – We found two birds singing near to the road and after a few quick sightings, a bird showed itself nicely in a gap in the vegetation. [E] (Scelorchilus rubecula) – Fairly common in the forest of the south, we had really nice looks at this guy. OCHRE­FLANKED TAPACULO (Eugralla paradoxa) – Those small Tapaculos are always a challenge to see. After a few attempts, we had this guy in the scope for a few minutes. ( magellanicus) – Seen a few times on the first half of the tour. (Scytalopus fuscus) – Seen on the last day of the tour, a few miles to the north of Viña del Mar. We had all the Tapaculo species in Chile. Nice job folks! [E] Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers) RUFOUS­BANDED MINER (Geositta rufipennis fasciata) WHITE­THROATED TREERUNNER (Pygarrhichas albogularis) – Great looks in Antillanca and later near to the Hosteria del Vilches! CRAG CHILIA (Ochetorhynchus melanurus) – A single bird seen really well on the way up to Farellones. [E] ­LIKE RUSHBIRD (Phleocryptes melanops) – Two birds seen nicely on the mouth of Maipo river. BUFF­WINGED CINCLODES (Cinclodes fuscus) – The most common of the Cinclodes seen on this tour. GRAY­FLANKED CINCLODES (Cinclodes oustaleti) DARK­BELLIED CINCLODES (Cinclodes patagonicus)

Participant Alan Leeds got this lovely photo of Volcan Osorno.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 11 SEASIDE CINCLODES (Cinclodes nigrofumosus) – Unlike other Cinclodes, this species is directly associated with the ocean, always being found foraging right by the sea. We had great looks at them during our stay at Vina del Mar. [E] THORN­TAILED RAYADITO (Aphrastura spinicauda) – There are two different subspecies in Chile, one of them restricted to the Chiloe Island and we had really good looks at both of them. DES MURS'S WIRETAIL (Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii) – This guy has a long skinny and lives almost exclusive on vegetation areas. PLAIN­MANTLED TIT­SPINETAIL (AEGITHALOIDES) (Leptasthenura aegithaloides aegithaloides) – Great looks at a pair of birds foraging in some low bushes. CORDILLERAN CANASTERO (Asthenes modesta) SHARP­BILLED CANASTERO (Asthenes pyrrholeuca) DUSKY­TAILED CANASTERO (Pseudasthenes humicola) – A rather large Canastero that was seen nicely on the pre­cordillera. [E] Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers) TUFTED TIT­TYRANT (Anairetes parulus) – Seen well many times during the tour. WHITE­CRESTED ELAENIA (CHILEAN) (Elaenia albiceps chilensis) – The only Elaenia occurring on this tour route. MANY­COLORED RUSH TYRANT (Tachuris rubrigastra) – WOW! How many colors can you see on that guy?? Gorgeous little bird. AUSTRAL NEGRITO ( rufa) – Bob spotted a bird foraging while we had lunch at Embalse Yeso. SPECTACLED TYRANT (Hymenops perspicillatus) – The male has an amazing contrast between the black body and yellow eye ring! RUFOUS­NAPED GROUND­TYRANT (Muscisaxicola rufivertex) DARK­FACED GROUND­TYRANT (Muscisaxicola maclovianus) – Seen above treeline at Antillanca Ski resort. WHITE­BROWED GROUND­TYRANT (Muscisaxicola albilora) BLACK­FRONTED GROUND­TYRANT The Chimango Caracara was the most common raptor on the tour. Photo by guide Marcelo Barreiros. (Muscisaxicola frontalis) BLACK­BILLED SHRIKE­TYRANT (Agriornis montanus) FIRE­EYED DIUCON (Xolmis pyrope) Cotingidae (Cotingas) RUFOUS­TAILED PLANTCUTTER (Phytotoma rara) – The Rufous­tailed Plantcutter is a distinctive species of woodland edge and scrub that occurs in Chile and . The name "plantcutter" refers to the tendency of the bird to cut and consume leaves, buds and fruits. We saw several of them on our tour. Hirundinidae () BLUE­AND­WHITE (PATAGONICA) (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca patagonica) (Tachycineta leucopyga) Troglodytidae ()

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 12 (SOUTHERN) (Troglodytes aedon chilensis) Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies) AUSTRAL THRUSH (Turdus falcklandii) – Common throughout the tour. Mimidae ( and ) CHILEAN (Mimus thenca) – Usually one of the first Chilean endemics seen by people as it is even common in towns. [E] Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits) CORRENDERA PIPIT (Anthus correndera) – Nice looks at these shy little birds around Batuco wetlands. Thraupidae ( and Allies) GRAY­HOODED SIERRA­FINCH (Phrygilus gayi) PATAGONIAN SIERRA­FINCH (Phrygilus patagonicus) BAND­TAILED SIERRA­FINCH (Phrygilus alaudinus) COMMON DIUCA­FINCH (Diuca diuca) – We had a bird on the scope for a few minutes on the first afternoon. Nice looks. YELLOW­BRIDLED FINCH (WHITE­TAILED) (Melanodera xanthogramma barrosi) – A scarce, high altitude species that was seen well at the volcano crater above Antillanca. GREATER YELLOW­FINCH (Sicalis auriventris) – Easily distinguished from Yellow­finch by its much larger size! GRASSLAND YELLOW­FINCH (GRASSLAND) (Sicalis luteola luteiventris) Passerellidae (New World Buntings and Sparrows) RUFOUS­COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis) Icteridae (Troupials and Allies) LONG­TAILED MEADOWLARK (Sturnella loyca) – A few nice views in open fields.

Our happy group at our last lunch together, at the Vineyard Vino del Mar. Photo by participant Claire Moore.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 13 (Molothrus bonariensis) AUSTRAL BLACKBIRD (Curaeus curaeus) YELLOW­WINGED BLACKBIRD (Agelasticus thilius) Fringillidae (, Euphonias, and Allies) YELLOW­RUMPED SISKIN (Spinus uropygialis) – A few birds foraging close to the creek at Embalse Yeso. BLACK­CHINNED SISKIN (Spinus barbatus) – A very cooperative male seen really low at Altos de Lircay Natural Reserve. Passeridae (Old World Sparrows) HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)

MAMMALS OLD WORLD RABBIT (Oryctolagus cuniculus) [I] EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus) [I] NUTRIA (Myocastor coypus) – Seen twice, both times swimming. PEALE'S DOLPHIN (Lagenorhynchus australis)

This Southern Gray was warming up in the sun, and posed nicely for participant Jacob Plotkin.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 14 SOUTHERN GRAY FOX (Pseudalopex griseus) – A very friendly individual warming itself in the sunshine while we had lunch on the way down from Puyehue NP. SOUTHERN SEA LION (Otaria byronia)

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Totals for the tour: 162 bird taxa and 6 mammal taxa

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