Beauty at Any Age

Beauty At Any Age

The best skin care, hair care, and makeup tricks to have in your image arsenal

By Diana Pemberton-Sikes

Please Note: You Do NOT Have the Right to Reprint or Resell this Ebook!

You Also MAY NOT Give Away, Sell or Share the Content Herein

If you purchased this ebook from anywhere other than http://www.fashionforrealwomen.com, you have a pirated copy.

Please help stop Internet crime by reporting this to: mailto:[email protected]

DISCLAIMER AND TERMS OF USE AGREEMENT

The author, Diana Pemberton-Sikes, and the publisher, Top Drawer Publications, LLC, have made their best effort to produce a high quality, informative, and helpful book. But they make no representation or warranties of any kind for the completeness or accuracy of its contents. The information contained in this ebook is strictly for educational purposes. The author and publisher accept no liability of any kind for any losses or damages caused or alleged to be caused, directly or indirectly, from using the information contained in this book.

Other than a single printed copy for your personal use, no part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any informational storage or retrieval system without express written, dated, and signed permission from the author.

Top Drawer Publications, LLC 256 S. College Avenue Newark, DE 19711 (302) 266-0156

http://www.topdrawerpublications.com/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

A former model and unrepentant clotheshorse, Diana Pemberton-Sikes is a certified color and image consultant who has been helping women reach their image goals since 1994. Her clients include sales managers, social workers, teachers, lawyers, and accountants, to name a few.

After the birth of her first two children, Diana wanted to spend more time with them and started the FashionForRealWomen.com website in 2000 as a way to stay in touch with her clients. Since then, she’s been interviewed by dozens of magazines, including Prevention, Women’s World, Weight Watchers, Paris Woman, and The American Bar Association. She won the 2001 ContentBiz.com, “Entrepreneur of the Year Award” for her fashion webzine, Fashion Savvy, and her articles appear in numerous fashion and beauty ezines all over the web.

She’s also a contributing author to Priscilla Y. Huff's, The Self-Employed Woman's Guide to Launching a Home-Based Business and The FabJob Guide to Become a Fashion Designer.

______

Dedication

To my friend Monique Weber, with whom I shared many beauty firsts: first botched facial, first disastrous makeup application, first curling iron burn… It’s a wonder we ever made it through the fifth grade!

Thanks for a lifetime of memories!

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ABOUT THE AUTHOR ...... 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS ...... 4 INTRODUCTION ...... 6 YOUR CROWNING GLORY ...... 9 YOUR FACE SHAPE...... 10 HAIR TYPE...... 13 General Hair Care...... 15 Seasonal Hair Care ...... 16 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY ...... 18 THE ABC’S OF HAIR COLOR...... 21 About That Gray ...... 25 Should You Do It Yourself?...... 26 Color During Pregnancy ...... 26 A NO-COMMITMENT WAY TO MAKE A CHANGE...... 26 WIGS, HAIR EXTENSIONS, AND WEAVES ...... 27 GREAT HAIR WEBSITES...... 28 THE ABC’S OF BEAUTIFUL SKIN...... 30

ABOUT YOUR SKIN ...... 31 FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE SKIN ...... 32 CARING FOR YOUR SKIN ...... 35 Normal Skin...... 35 Dry Skin ...... 36 Oily Skin...... 37 Combination Skin ...... 37 Sensitive Skin ...... 38 SEASONAL SKIN CARE ...... 39 Summer Skin Care...... 39 Winter Skin Care...... 40 ACNE AND ROSACEA...... 41 Acne...... 41 Rosacea...... 45 SKIN CARE AS YOU AGE ...... 46 PRODUCT GLOSSARY...... 49 GREAT SKIN CARE SITES ...... 54 THE BASICS OF MAKEUP...... 55 THE IMPORTANCE OF COLOR ...... 56 TYPES OF MAKEUP ...... 58 BASIC APPLICATION ...... 60 EVENING MAKEUP...... 65 MAKEUP AS YOU AGE ...... 66 MAKEUP DRAWER MAINTENANCE...... 67 Makeup Shelf Life ...... 68 Skin Care Shelf Life ...... 70 GREAT MAKEUP SITES ...... 72 YOUR EYEBROWS...... 74 TWEEZING OR WAXING YOUR BROWS ...... 77 © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 4

FILLING IN YOUR BROWS...... 77 THE MOST COMMON BROW MISTAKES ...... 78 WAXING, TWEEZING, AND THREADING...... 79 THE WORST WAYS TO REMOVE EYEBROW HAIR...... 79 SHOULD YOU DYE YOUR BROWS?...... 80 YOUR PEARLY WHITES ...... 81

REGULAR DENTAL CARE...... 81 TEETH WHITENING...... 83 INVISALIGN ...... 89 BODY ...... 91 Cleanse...... 91 Prepare...... 93 Protect ...... 95 COMMON SKIN CARE PROBLEMS...... 102 HAIR REMOVAL ...... 107 TYPES OF HAIR REMOVAL ...... 107 HAIR TO REMOVE...... 109 HOW TO SHAVE ...... 112 HOW TO WAX...... 113 HAIR REMOVAL ISSUES...... 115 HANDS, FEET, AND NAILS...... 117

BASIC HAND CARE ...... 118 COMMON HAND PROBLEMS ...... 120 HOW TO GET BEAUTIFUL NAILS...... 122 Basic Nail Care ...... 122 Nails For Your Lifestyle...... 123 Manicures 101 ...... 124 OTHER NAIL POLISH TIPS ...... 127 The Pros and Cons of Artificial Nails ...... 128 TIPS ON TRAVELING ...... 129 BASIC FOOT CARE...... 130 COMMON FOOT PROBLEMS ...... 131 Perfect Pedicures ...... 134 FRAGRANCE...... 135

HOW PERFUME IS MADE...... 137 THE STRENGTH OF PERFUMES...... 139 THE WEAR AND CARE OF YOUR FAVORITE SCENT ...... 140 CREATE YOUR SIGNATURE SCENT ...... 142 POSTURE ...... 144 CONCLUSION...... 148 RESOURCES FOR FURTHER STUDY ...... 149

INTRODUCTION

“There are no ugly women, only lazy ones.” --Helena Rubinstein

What makes a woman beautiful?

Is it her eyes? Her smile? Her spirit?

It’s hard to say. Each culture has an ideal image of beauty, and those who fall close to it are often celebrated and revered. Research shows time and again that attractive people enjoy a lot more perks than their less attractive counterparts, like earning more money, attracting more potential mates, and getting more attention from teachers in school. So if we’re not supposed to “judge a book by its cover,” why do we seem to do just that?

It’s one of those “survival of the fittest” things, according to Nancy Etcoff, a professor at Harvard Medical School and author of Survival of the Prettiest (Anchor Books, 1999). We tend to favor people who have shiny hair, clear skin, white teeth, and a fit body because they’re all indications of a healthy, vibrant person -- as opposed to dull hair, bad skin, yellow teeth, and unfit body, which historically have indicated disease or declining health. Darwin called it natural selection; Paris Hilton simply refers to it as “being hot” (bet you never expected to see THOSE two names linked together in a sentence…).

So our seeming fixation with looks isn’t a recent phenomenon, incited by the media. Instead, it’s as old as time itself, a survival strategy adopted to ensure propagation of the species.

We’re attracted to pretty things. That’s why we choose a shiny apple over a dull one, a clean car over a dirty car, and a pretty dress over an ugly one. Why do beautiful women and handsome men always grace the covers of magazines? Because they sell better than if there were unattractive people on the cover. It’s as simple as that.

Looking to get promoted? Find a guy? Land a job?

Then it makes sense, based on everything you’ve just read, to take extra care with your appearance. If you’re well-groomed and well-dressed, you’re more likely to succeed in your quest than if you are not.

So am I saying that you should take more time with the packaging than the substance? Of course not! How you look will get in the door; what you know will keep you in the room. But to get in the room, you’ve got to get through the door, so let’s find out how to do that.

Let’s begin with one simple question:

When was the last time you took a good, hard look at your grooming habits?

If you’ve gotten into a routine, you probably don’t even think about it much any more. Hair, makeup, hygiene—you go through the steps to get yourself out the door.

But what does your grooming say about you? Is it time to revisit the situation?

Chances are, it is.

Many women completely underestimate the impact of their hair and makeup. It seems like such a trivial thing, yet studies reveal time and again that women who take care with their appearance:

1. Are perceived as being more competent than women who don’t.

2. Are more likely to be promoted than women who don’t.

3. Typically earn 20% more than women who Both pretty, but who’s more don’t. likely to succeed?

If you’re not having the impact you want, a change is probably in order. Fortunately, it doesn’t have to be dramatic or expensive. A new hairstyle or makeup routine could be all it takes to create the effect you want.

If you’ve been thinking about updating your look but don’t know where to start, Beauty at Any Age will get you pointed in the right direction.

We’ll start with your hair, cover everything down to your toes, and even discuss how to sit and climb stairs with grace. By the time you’re done, you’ll be able to:

 Determine your best hairstyle and hair color

 Find easy ways to maintain healthy skin

 Put on makeup for different activities

 Find the best eyebrow shape for your face

 Discover inexpensive ways to get a beautiful smile

 Get clear, dimple-free skin on your body

 Determine the best hair removal methods for you

 Discover the best hand, feet, and nail routines for your lifestyle

 Find your signature scent

 Stand tall and wall elegantly

Looking great is easy, once you know what to do. With a small commitment and a little practice, you can turn heads, engender confidence, and make more money by simply upgrading your beauty routine.

“The devil is in the details,” they say; so let’s get to some of those details.

Enjoy!

Diana Pemberton-Sikes [email protected]

“Beauty is only skin deep, but ugly goes clear to the bone.” – Dorothy Parker

1 YOUR CROWNING GLORY

“If truth is beauty, how come no one has their hair done in a library?” -- Lily Tomlin

Why is that when our hair looks great we feel great, but when it looks bad we cringe?

It’s because our hair frames our face, and everyone looks at our face. If you find a hairstyle that’s easy to maintain and works well with your features, you’re “good to go” on that count. But if your “crown and glory” feels more like shackles and drudgery because of the time and money involved in maintaining it, perhaps it’s time to re-evaluate your hairstyle and maintenance routine.

Now I realize this is easier said than done. While some women are very adept at changing their looks, adapting them to the latest styles and trends, I’ll say right now that they’re in the minority.

Most women struggle with their hair. They try to stay current using the “one size fits all” mentality of our culture and then wonder why, years later, they look so goofy in pictures. Have any teased beehives, Dorothy Hamill wedges or Farrah Fawcett flips in your background? How about a Jennifer Aniston “The Rachel” (1995) Jennifer Beals perm or Jennifer Annison “Rachel” cut? No? WireImage.com You’re probably one of the few.

Yes, you want to stay current with your hairstyle because not doing so will date you quickly (keeping the styles popular in your youth doesn’t make you look younger; it makes you look older). But you want a style and maintenance routine that works with your hair texture, your face shape, and your lifestyle – and that’s not always the latest trend.

So where do you start your quest for the perfect style?

With your face shape.

Your Face Shape

While some face shapes can seemingly wear any hairstyle, others require specific elements to accent the good points and downplay the not-so-good points. You can shave years, pounds, and wrinkles with the right haircut -- or add them unnecessarily with the wrong one -- so take some time with this. It could make a big difference.

If you’re not sure of your face shape, here’s a simple trick to figure it out: slick back all your hair and look straight into the mirror. Trace the outline of your face on the mirror with a bar of soap. Then match up your shape with one of these shown here.

The Oval The Oval face is slightly narrower at the jaw than at the temple or cheekbones, and has a rounded hairline. Because the face is so proportional, with no dominant areas, it can easily wear many styles, including layers, curls, or one-length cuts.

Avoid: If your face is small, avoid too much hair on the face, like bangs, angled cuts, and the like. Experiment with different styles

The Oblong

The Oblong is long and slender with narrow bone structure and may have a very narrow chin. Since long, straight hair will further emphasize the length of the face, opt for soft bangs, curls, or short-to- medium length styles that make your face appear fuller.

Avoid: Center parts, straight hair, thick, straight- Add softness to make the face across bangs, or too much height at the crown, all of seem shorter and fuller which will make the face look even longer.

The Round A Round face has a rounded chin and hairline with the widest point at the cheeks and ears. Because of the fullness at mid-face, opt for styles that draw attention elsewhere, like fullness at the crown or around the neck and shoulders.

Avoid: Chin length styles, straight bangs, styles Put fullness above or that curve into the face, and center parts (off- below the cheekbones center is more flattering), because all of those will make the face appear rounder.

The Square A Square face has a strong, square jaw line and a small or narrow forehead. To de-emphasize the jaw, opt for short or medium-length styles with wispy, off-center bangs and height at the crown. Part hair off-center rather than down the center or on the side.

Avoid: Straight, chopped bangs or too much Add fullness to top to counter- fullness at the side, both of which will make the balance a strong jaw line face seem more square.

The Heart-Shaped A Heart-shaped face is wide at the temples and narrow at the chin. To de-emphasize the hairline, keep your hair chin-length or longer with styles that draw attention to the chin or neck. Opt for a side rather than a center part or find a style with no part at all.

Avoid: Very short styles or those that draw Cover the temples and draw attention to the temple area, thus emphasizing attention to the chin or neck the wide hairline.

The Diamond A Diamond-shaped face has a narrow chin and forehead with wide cheekbones. Balance out the cheekbones by covering the forehead with bangs and adding fullness around the chin. Short and medium-length hair styles work very well with this face shape. Opt for parts on the side rather than at the center.

Cover forehead and put Avoid: Long, full styles and center parts that fullness at the chin or neck will visually elongate the face.

All illustrations in this section courtesy of Hairuwear.com

See why some of those trendy hairstyles might not work for your face shape? If they emphasize things you’d rather hide or hide things you’d rather show, avoid them – or get a variation that better serves your needs.

Here are some other things you might keep in mind. If you have a:

High Forehead: Let it show if you like, or wear bangs brushed straight down or to the side.

Low Forehead: Try to keep it clear of hair, particularly if your face is small. Too much hair can overpower your other features. If you wear bangs, keep them light and feathery.

Short Neck: Opt for short, neat, and smooth styles. Too long or too many curls at the chin or neck can make it seemingly disappear.

Long Neck: Show it off with hair that’s chin-length or swept back. Short hair works too, provided it’s in proportion to your face and body.

Large Face: A longer length can balance it. Don’t go too full and fluffy or your head may appear very large.

Small Face: Keep hair medium length or shorter. Too much volume or curls will overpower a small-scale face.

So now that we’ve taken your hair type into consideration, what’s the next step in discovering the best hairstyle for you? Your hair type.

Hair Type

All hair is not created equal. Some people have straight hair, some have curly. Some have thick, some have thin. Some hair grows fast, some grows slow. Some hair is oily, some is dry. Color, texture, and volume can vary among different ethnicities; it can also vary among members of the same family.

So what’s my point?

Because of all of these factors, you may or may not be able to wear certain hair styles easily – or you may end up spending a lot of time, money, and energy to get a look that defies what nature gave you. If you want an economical way to look great and get out the door quickly, look for products and styles that work with your hair type, not against it.

Here are the best styles and hair care routines for each type of hair:

Coarse, Tightly Coiled Hair

Coarse, tightly coiled hair has a thick diameter and is often very dry because the sebum (oil) from the scalp can’t make it down the hair shaft easily.

Shampoo every other day with moisturizing, creamy shampoos -- like those containing shea butter, wheat germ oil or coconut or macadamia nut oil -- that coat the hair shaft and help retain moisture.

Condition hair after each shampoo with products containing either cetyl or stearyl alcohol, or essential oils and botanicals, to help lock in moisture. Tyra Banks has coarse, tightly coiled hair To make the most of your curls, try a layered hair style (long or short) that cuts shape into your curls without weighing down your hair.

Thick, Wavy, or Curly Hair

Like coarse hair, thick, wavy, and curly hair tends to be dry because oil has trouble making its way down the hair shaft.

Shampoo your hair every second or third day with a rich, creamy shampoo.

Those containing a gentle detergent like sodium laureth sulfate and a water-binding ingredient like propylene glycol work best for this hair type.

Condition hair after each shampoo with a smoothing ingredient like soy or wheat protein to help combat dryness. Allow hair to air-dry, if possible. Kathy Ireland Thick hair can be resistant to color and perming. Wavy hair has thick, wavy is desirable, because it holds curl or can be straightened easily hair with styling tools. Both thick hair and curly hair benefit from layers, to keep from weighing hair down.

Fine, Limp, or Oily Hair

Fine hair has a small diameter and because of it, sebum (oil) can travel easily down the hair shaft making it look and feel oily quickly, sometimes every day.

Shampoo once a day or as needed with a clear, volumizing shampoo that doesn’t weigh hair down. The ingredient panthenol is particularly effective is coating the hair shaft to make hair look fuller.

Condition only as needed with a lightweight conditioner, and add only from midway to the ends of your hair, to avoid putting extra products on the scalp. Alternately, try a spray leave-in Uma Thurman conditioner, again only adding from the middle to the ends of has fine hair hair.

Fine hair tends to be weightless and have flyaways. It’s often straight and won’t hold curl or color well. Blunt, geometric cuts tend to work well for this type of hair.

Celebrity photos courtesy of WireImage.com

Dry, Damaged Hair

Hair can become dry and brittle from too many processes, like colors, perms, straightening, relaxing, etc. A little TLC will return it to normal condition over time.

Shampoo your hair with a moisturizing, creamy shampoo, staying away from clear, “deep cleansing” formulas.

Condition your hair after each shampoo with an ultra-moisturizing product like shea butter or natural oils. If hair is extremely damaged, don’t completely rinse out conditioner. You may even want to deep condition once a week.

Color-Treated Hair

To condition hair and keep color from fading or changing shades, use shampoos designed for color-treated hair. Also use a conditioner formulated for processed hair.

Dandruff

Got flakes? While your body and scalp are constantly sloughing off dead cells as new ones emerge, dandruff takes the process to a whole new level. The scalp hosts a fungus called pityrosporum ovale which normally occurs at very low levels. But when the scalp produces an excess of sebum, this yeast-like fungus grows rapidly, inflames the hair follicles, and causes the dead skin cells on the scalp to fall off in noticeable flakes.

The best way to combat the problem is with dandruff shampoos and conditioners. Look for products that exfoliate, soothe, and prevent inflammation. Scrub and rinse thoroughly. If the problem persists, see your dermatologist.

Alopecia (Hair Loss)

Just as with dead skin cells, our bodies constantly slough off old hair as new growth comes in. Many women experience some hair loss after giving birth. But if you’re losing more hair than is being replaced, leading to baldness or bald patches, consult your doctor. You may be losing your hair as a result of heredity, hormonal imbalance, or disease.

GENERAL HAIR CARE As you can see, some hair care products are better designed for your hair type than others. What you use in your daily routine can dry out your hair, weigh it down unnecessarily – or allow you to look fabulous, depending on what you use.

So take the time to read the labels carefully and get products designed for your type of hair.

To reduce damage, always comb out wet hair with a wide-toothed comb. Allow your hair to air-dry whenever possible, as the heat from blow dryers and hair dryers can be damaging. Use heated styling appliances sparingly (curling irons, straightening irons, hot rollers), and set them at the lowest setting.

SEASONAL HAIR CARE Summer

Heat and humidity can take their toll on your tresses, increasing sweat and oil production or drying hair out from sun and surf. You may need to adapt your regular routine to accommodate this:

 Adjust your shampoo and conditioners, if necessary. Use a deep cleansing formulation to rid your hair of oil and sweat.

 Deep condition regularly, at least once a week, if you’re in the sun or water a lot.

 Let your hair air dry whenever possible. Give it a break from blow drying in warm weather and let nature do it instead.

 Wear it up. But vary the style to avoid strain on the hair. Don’t always wear it in a pony tail or braided or pinned up or whatever.

 Wear hats and scarves for protection, particularly if you have color treated hair (it fades in sunlight). Don’t think your scalp can sunburn? Wrong! It can, and boy, does it hurt!

 Wear a leave-in conditioner at the pool or beach. Opt for one that contains sunscreen and offers protection from the sun.

 Try a shorter style. If you just can’t stand all that hair on your neck and are all thumbs when it comes to styling, try a shorter, easy-to- maintain style.

Take Extra Care When Swimming

If you swim a lot, take special care with your hair—particularly if it’s color treated. Chlorine can damage your hair and even turn it green in some instances. So…  Use an anti-chlorine shampoo and conditioner to help rid your hair of the chemicals. The main ingredient you’re looking for is E.D.T.A. Chlor-Off™ Anti-Chlorine Shampoo and Conditioner is formulated just for this situation.

 Wear a swim cap.

Winter

Between cold weather and dry central heat, your hair can take a beating in the winter and start to dry out, frizz, or get static. To combat the elements:

 Switch your shampoo formulations from deep cleansing to moisture- rich for the season. Or, if that bogs down your hair, alternate your products every few days.

 Don’t shampoo every day; try every other day instead.

 Use an intense weekly moisture treatment.

 Try a different hairstyle that requires fewer appliances and products. If you always curl your straight hair with hot rollers, curling iron, or a round brush and blow dryer before spraying it into place with hairspray, for example, try pulling it back into a sleek bun or ponytail instead. If you always straighten your curls, try letting them go au natural.

 To keep frizz, static, and “hat hair” to a minimum, try hair-friendly hats like newsboys, berets, and Bretons. Avoid stocking hats, cloches, and baseball caps.

Having great hair in extreme weather need not be a challenge. Just remember that like your clothes, your shoes, and your makeup, you need to change your hair care routine to adapt to the new season.

So now that we’ve talked about hair type and face shape, what’s left? Your clothing personality.

Your Clothing Personality

Clothing personality? What does that have to do with hair?

A lot.

I describe clothing personalities in detail in Wardrobe Magic, so I won’t repeat that information here, but I will say that just as you have certain types of clothes that look best on you, so too, do you have certain hairstyles that better suit. Match your style of hair to your face shape, hair type, and clothing personality, and the odds are very good that you’ll arrive at a something that looks good, feels good, and fits with your lifestyle.

Here are some details:

The Classic

The Classic is the epitome of style and grace and is the image most often associated with high-income brackets. She prefers simplicity and elegance and is always groomed, but never fussy. Her hair is simple and easily managed and clothing lines are uncluttered and pleasing to the eye.

Classics look best in moderate to somewhat short lengths, in a smooth, well-groomed, controlled style. The cut is usually blunt or has some layering.

Prototypes: Grace Kelly, Coco Chanel, Diane Sawyer, Renée

Zellweger, Ashley Judd, Naomi Watts, Uma Thurman

Examples of Classic hairstyles:

The Sporty Natural

The Sporty Natural is friendly, approachable, and usually athletic. With her tousled hair and no-fuss approach, Sporty-Naturals prefer the loose, carefree, windblown look. They don’t like to set or fuss with their hair, and usually avoid the smooth, sleek blunt cuts favored by other personalities.

Prototypes: Sandra Bullock, Julia Roberts, Katie Couric, Christie Brinkley

Examples of Sporty-Natural hairstyles:

The Dramatic

The mysterious, cutting-edge Dramatic both intimidates and intrigues. A natural born leader who prefers the latest fashions and precision hairstyles, she commands authority but may be perceived as being aloof with nerves of steel.

Dramatics prefer to wear their hair in sleek geometric or asymmetrical cuts or if long, in a sophisticated chignon. They typically avoid curls, frills, and small accessories.

Prototypes: Charlize Theron, Fran Drescher, Gwen Stefani

Examples of Dramatic hairstyles:

The Romantic

The Romantic is sexy, artistic, charming and diplomatic, and seeks beauty and grace in all that she does. She likes curls, flounces, and all things feminine.

Romantics prefer curved and curly hairstyles, never straying far from curling irons or hot rollers.

Prototypes: Elizabeth Taylor, Jacklyn Smith, Sophia Loren, Jane Seymour, Selma Hayek

Examples of Romantic hairstyles:

See how this might impact your style choice? If you’re a laid-back Sporty- Natural trying to maintain the precision cut of a Dramatic or the curls of a

Romantic, you’re working too hard. Find a style more in keeping with your personality and you’ll have a lot easier time getting out the door in the morning.

The ABC’s of Hair Color

“What color should my hair be?”

This is one of the questions I get most often. My answer: the one that nature intended. You’re usually born with the color that suits you best, and for most women, doing nothing is best. But very few women leave nature alone. In fact, nearly 3 out of every 4 women color their hair, usually for one of three reasons: to go (or stay) blonde, to cover gray, or to give themselves a boost.

This isn’t particularly new.

Women have been unhappy with their natural hair color for a long, long time. Cave paintings show people with elaborate hair colors, and the Ancient Egyptians used to color their hair with henna. The Greeks and Romans, proud users of brash colors in battle, had recipes to reverse the effects of color gone too dark.

Borax, lupins, saffron, and myrrh were used to color hair for thousands of years until William Henry Park, a chemist at the Royal College of Chemistry, stumbled across a permanent dye process in 1859 that’s been used in both hair color and fabric dyes ever since. In 1909, a Frenchman named Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair color and started a company featuring this product. Today that company is known as L’Oreal.

While Hollywood lead the way in colored hair in the first half of the 20th century with unforgettable screen sirens like Jean Harlow, Rita Hayworth, and Marilyn Monroe, to name a few, the average woman on the street did not color her hair. As late as 1950, only 7% of the population used hair color, and then only as a way to disguise the gray. No respectable woman would admit that she colored her hair.

My, how times have changed! Today, 75% of American

women reportedly cover their hair, with red being the most frequently requested color at salons.

There are three levels of hair coloring products that are available on the market. Each reacts differently on your hair:

 Semi-permanent color adds color to your hair without dramatically changing the natural color. The color molecules go into your hair’s cortex, but don’t interact with the natural pigments. Because the molecules are small, they leave the hair shaft after several shampoos (usually 6 to 12), leaving hair the same way it was before the color. It’s a great way to temporarily cover up some of your gray, or enhance your natural color without dealing with root outgrowth. Because it contains no Surya Henna Cream peroxide, it won’t lighten your hair.

 Demi-permanent color creates larger size color molecules, which take longer to exit the hair shaft — usually 24 to 26 shampoos. It contains no ammonia, so the natural pigment can’t be lightened, but it does have peroxide — which can make a

subtle but noticeable color change. It can also blend Wella Color Charm and cover gray.

Note: Both semi-permanent and demi-permanent color can become permanent color on permed or previously treated hair. Proceed with caution!

 Permanent color uses both ammonia and peroxide and can create a significant color change. The color molecules enter the hair cortex, where they react and expand to a size that does not wash out. You’ll have to grow out your hair or cut it off to get rid of the color. The ammonia alters your natural pigment to create a new base, and then to add a new permanent color. The result is a combination of your natural pigment and the shade Revlon Colorist you’ve chosen. In order to hide root growth, you’ll need a touch up every four to six weeks.

To make a significant color change, like blond to black or black to blond (which is not recommended, by the way), you’ll need a two-step process called double process color. It involves bleaching and toning the hair in two steps, and it’s not something you should attempt if you’re new to coloring. If you’re intent on such a change, go to a professional and get it done right.

So which is the best solution for you? It depends on several things:

1. What you want to accomplish 2. How long you want the color to last 3. Want you can afford to maintain.

Most women start conservatively and work up to higher commitment levels. If you want a “little lift” for your 20th anniversary party without ongoing maintenance after the “big event”, try a semi-permanent color. Want to have sun-kissed highlights for the summer? Demi-permanent may fit the bill. Don’t want anyone to know you’re gray? Permanent is probably your best solution.

If you do get permanent, all over color, remember that it does require regular maintenance (every four to six weeks) to keep the new growth in check. This isn’t something you should do on a whim. With at-home solutions costing between $4 and $10 per application, and professional jobs running $50 to $100 per visit, depending on your hair length, maintenance could run $50 to $1200 per year. If your budget can’t handle that, try a different solution.

Permanent highlights usually cost the same as all-over color, for example, but won’t show re-growth as quickly. You could stretch the maintenance to 4 times a year, and significantly reduce your cash outlay. Try different solutions to find the one that best meets your goals.

So now that you know how color works and have an idea of the maintenance schedule, what color should you make your hair?

One that compliments your natural coloring. If you have warm undertones in your skin, stick with warm, yellow-based colors. If you have cool undertones, stick with cool, blue-based colors. Use pictures from your childhood days to find a suitable shade. If your mother saved a clipping from your Yellow hair color, first haircut as a toddler, use that as a starting point. blue skin tone…not good

Don’t just pick a color because you like the way it looks on a box or your favorite celebrity; make sure it will work with your skin tone as well.

Actress Nicole Kidman frequently colors her hair for movie rolls. Notice how vibrant her skin looks when she sticks closest to her natural hair color.

Jan 1993 July 2005 Sept 2005 Oct 2006

Photos courtesy of WireImage.com

Here are some additional hair color/skin tone guidelines:

If Your Undertones Are… And Your Eyes Are… Try…

W Ivory Blue Golden Blonde Peachy Blue-Green Golden Brown A Golden Brown Green Honey Brown Creamy Beige Hazel Red Brown R Cafe au Lait Topaz Golden with Red Tawny Amber Highlights M Coppery Coffee Bean Chestnut Deep Golden Brown Black Copper, Mahogany

C Rosy Pink Light Blue Ash Blonde Rosy beige Gray-Blue Platinum Blonde O Dark Olive Deep Blue Ash Brown Dark Brown Deep Green Brown O Ebony Brown or Black Dark Brown Black, Slate L Salt and Pepper Pure White

ABOUT THAT GRAY

If you’re trying to cover gray, opt for a lighter color than you had before you started to turn. Since your skin undertone fades a little with age, you need to use a lighter color to keep up with the diminishing tone. Sticking with your old, darker color will make you look older, not younger.

Here are some celebrities who have done a good job with this:

Sophia Loren Diahann Carroll Helen Mirren

Oct 1981 May 2006 May 1968 Jun 2003 Sep 1994 Feb 2007

Photos courtesy of WireImage.com

If you have coarse hair, prematurely gray hair, or gray hair around the temples and hairline, you may have had trouble covering it. For some reason, these types of hair are especially resistant to color, and tend to take less color and lose it faster than other types of gray hairs.

If you’re having trouble with color, try these tips:

 Apply color to these gray areas first. This will give the resistant gray hairs more time to absorb color.

 Leave color on longer. Test a strand and adjust your timing. Grays could take up to 45 minutes to process.

 Increase your hair color level. If your gray hair still shows up after you've adjusted the timing on your semi- or demi-permanent color, you might need permanent color to accomplish the task.

SHOULD YOU DO IT YOURSELF? Coloring your hair at home is economical, and with a little practice, easy to master. Still, there are times when you might want to go to a professional. Consider going to a colorist when:

 You want to lighten or darken your hair more than three shades  You’ve colored your own hair and now it’s a disaster  Your hair is permed or damaged  You have never colored your hair and want a big change  You’re “all thumbs” when it comes to stuff like this and you’re afraid you’re going to make a big mess

To find a competent professional, ask people who have hair color that you like. Don’t be shy! Some stylists specialize in cutting, while others focus on color.

Once you’re at the salon, ask lots of questions. Don’t let anyone talk you into anything you’re not sure about. Ask to see samples of the color ahead of time, and be sure to discuss all your maintenance options.

COLOR DURING PREGNANCY Many doctors recommend that you avoid any kind of chemical hair treatments during pregnancy. While there’s not much medical evidence to show that these chemicals are harmful to your baby, hormones can affect the way your hair responds to treatment. Sometimes perms won’t take and dye changes color. Talk it over with your doctor and see what’s right for you.

A No-Commitment Way to Make a Change

If you’re thinking about a change but are too chicken to take the plunge, “try on” different colors by visiting your local wig shop.

Or, try a virtual makeover software or website, Virtually “try on” hairstyles like: and hair color to see which  MakeOverStudios.com works best on you.  MakeOverSolutions.com

Wigs, Hair Extensions, and Weaves

If you were not blessed with fabulous locks, have lost hair because of medical reasons, or just want a quick, no-commitment change, fake hair could be the way to go. Made from human hair or synthetic material, wigs, falls, hair extensions, and the like have fallen in and out of popularity for thousands of years.

Wigs were first made by the Ancient Egyptians who would remove all body hair from head to toe to stay cool and keep body vermin to a minimum. After falling out of favor during the Dark Ages, wigs returned to popularity in the 1600’s as both a status symbol and a way to cover poor hygiene. Today, wigs are often worn to cover hair loss from age or medical reasons, or to offer alternate looks for actors or the fashion-conscious.

Here are some types of “fake” hair:

Wigs are made out of human or synthetic hair stitched onto a weft or net cap-style foundation that’s designed to cover the entire head. Depending on the construction, they can we washed, styled, and set, just like human hair. They do require occasional maintenance, which you can do or have done for you by the place where you purchased the wig.

Falls are sort of partial wigs that are attached to the head by combs or clips. They usually match the wearer’s regular hair color, and are easily attached as ponytails, braids, long hair, etc. Great for special occasions, falls have been popular on and off since the 1960’s.

Extensions and weaves are pieces of hair that are bonded to the natural hair by a keratine vegetal-based microbond, or sewn into the natural hair with a weft. They can last for many months, being washed and styled with the regular hair, but you need to use styling appliances (blowdryer, curling iron, hot rollers) at a lower heat setting that normal, particularly with synthetic hair.

Pictures in the section courtesy of Hairuwear.com

So…even if you weren’t blessed with a beautiful head of hair, you can look like you have great hair by wearing a wig or by adding a fall or extensions. Just keep the Sydney Bristow (“Alias”) pastel and techno wigs for after work hours, please -- unless you’re a chic international spy like Sydney.

Great Hair Websites

Here are some great specialty hair sites that may be of interest to you:

 General Information

Offers general information like hair care and styling; also has hair style galleries:

HairBoutique.com Visual-Makeover.com

 Long Hair

Love your long hair and need some tips on how to manage it? You’ll find everything you could possibly want to know at:

LongHairLovers.com

 Short Hair

Thinking about cutting your hair short or looking for different ways to style your short do? Check out “The Short Hair Variety Story” on HairBoutique.com for tips, tricks, and plenty of inspiration:

HairBoutique.com/tips/tip177.htm

 Curly Hair

What’s the best way to manage your naturally curly tresses? NaturallyCurly.com, the website “for girls with curls” can tell you.

NaturallyCurly.com

 Straight Hair

Hate your straight hair or just wish you could figure out what to do with it? Here are some tips you might enjoy:

Visual-Makeover.com/form.htm

 African-American Hair

Need tips and tricks on how to handle the special needs of black hair? Here are a couple of sites you might like:

Jazma.com MyDreadLocks.com NappyHair.com

 Asian Hair

Asian hair is more porous than other hair types, so it’s easy to over-perm or over-color. Want some other hard-hitting facts? Then click on over for tips and tricks on styling Asian hair.

AsianMs.net

Whew! We’ve covered a lot here and I know it can be overwhelming. Just start with the basics:

 Change your hair regularly so you look current  Find a hairstyle that works with your face shape, hair type, and clothing personality  Find a color that compliments your skin tone, coloring goals, and budget  Experiment and have fun with wigs and other styling products

2 THE ABC’S OF BEAUTIFUL SKIN

“I use products from my dermatologist but the best things you can do for your skin are not smoke, always use sunscreen, and drink a lot of water.” – Sela Ward

Ever had pimples? Rashes? Puffy eyes?

Join the club.

There are some days when you wake up, look in the mirror, and wonder if that’s really you…or some unfortunate thing the cat dragged in. Deadlines, late nights, 2 a.m. feedings -- hey, we’ve all been there. But if that describes MOST of your mornings, then perhaps it’s time to review your skin care regime.

Because let’s face it: bad skin can impact your self esteem.

When your skin looks flawless (or nearly so), you put it out of your mind and hold your head high. But when you’re plagued with skin trouble like rashes, pimples, or puffiness, you tend to cringe every time you’re talking to someone and their gaze strays to your trouble spots. It’s hard to feel confident when people are staring at your imperfections.

But good skin IS possible, even if you’ve never had it. Diet, exercise, and vices all contribute to the condition of your skin, so a little lifestyle analysis combined with some product experimentation and perhaps a visit to a dermatologist could yield a solution that has you looking and feeling terrific.

Let’s go over some basics so that by the time we get to the next chapter on makeup, we can all agree that cosmetics should be used to enhance your features, not spackle your problems. Start with a good foundation -- clear skin -- and your makeup routine will become a breeze.

About Your Skin

Did you know that skin is the largest organ in your body? Measuring almost 20 square feet, it needs to be fed and nourished to remain healthy. Poorly maintained skin will start showing signs of neglect as early as age thirty while healthy skin can retain its youthful vigor well into its “golden years”.

To understand how to best protect and care for your skin, let’s start with a closer look.

The skin consists of three layers:

1. The subdermis is a layer of fatty tissue that cushions the skin above it.

2. The dermis is the middle layer of skin. It contains collagen, which gives skin its bounce; elastin, which gives it flexibility and durability; and blood capillaries, nerves, hair follicles, sweat, and sebaceous (oil) glands.

3. The epidermis is the top layer of skin. It's 1/250 of an inch thick and performs the critical function of cell renewal.

New skin cells form at the base of the epidermis and slowly move upward, losing moisture and flattening out as they go (A).

Cells on the surface of the skin are continually sloughed off to make way for replacement cells in a process that takes two to three weeks for younger skin and twice that long for mature skin. The longer the process takes, the more prone the skin is to moisture loss (B).

I'll give you some tips on how to combat this in just a moment.

Pores are openings in the skin's surface from which hairs grow and through which oil from oil glands flows to the surface. The size of the pore is proportional to the size of the oil gland under it.

Acne can occur when a pore becomes clogged, usually from dead cells that build up inside the follicle. The cells mix with excess oil and do not shed, creating a blockage in the pore. The areas of the face that tend to clog the most are also those that are the oiliest: the nose, the forehead, and the chin – a region otherwise known as the "oily T."

While there's no known way to shrink or reduce the size of pores, it is possible to make them appear smaller with skin care techniques that remove oil from the skin's surface. When the cells that make up the skin's surface are free of excess oil, pores will appear smaller.

Factors that Affect the Skin

There are several factors that affect the health of your skin. Some are controllable; some are not.

Uncontrollable Factors include:

Natural Aging

Natural changes occur in your body's chemistry throughout your life that contribute to your skin's appearance.

 As a child, your skin is soft and unblemished

 When you become an adolescent, shifting hormonal levels, increased oil gland production, and genetic predisposition make skin especially susceptible to blemishes.

 As an adult, oil gland production decreases and skin becomes less oily and prone to blemishes. This oil loss reduces the skin's elasticity, resulting in fine lines and wrinkles.

 After menopause, shifting hormonal levels, diminished regeneration of skin cells, and reduced production of collagen protein cause skin to become dry and fragile, increasing the likelihood of sags and wrinkles.

Sun

The sun is probably the most damaging environmental factor we encounter. With its seductively warm rays casting a "healthy glow" to our skin, it's easy to believe that basking in the sun is okay. But continued exposure to its ultra violet rays dries out, damages, and wrinkles the skin.

Humidity

Low humidity robs skin of essential moisture. High humidity can cause sweat glands to work overtime, making skin feel oilier. Moisturizing is the key to success here. Wash less and moisturize more when in low humidity, wash more and moisturize lightly when in high humidity.

Temperature Extremes

Cold temperatures combined with low humidity draw moisture from the skin, leaving it tight and dry (anyone been skiing in Colorado lately?). Combine hot temperatures with low humidity and you’ve got the same situation, literally "baking" the skin (hello, Arizona!).

Wind

Strong wind, especially combined with extreme temperatures and low humidity, can cause dry, parched, and flaky skin. Windborne dust and dirt can also strike the skin and stick to the surface, clogging pores and irritating skin.

Pollution

Smog and other air pollutants can stick to the skin and clog pores.

Controllable Factors include:

Sleep

Want a quick facelift? Get a good night's sleep. Skin renews itself by building new skin cells while you rest, so regularly getting enough sleep will make you appear (and feel) younger. Doctors recommend seven to eight hours a night.

Water

I know -- you're sick to death about hearing how you should drink eight glasses of water a day. But it's advice worth repeating and following. Not only does water flush impurities from the body, it helps improve circulation which in turn speeds cell growth.

Nutrition

There's a direct correlation between healthy skin and good nutrition. Eat a varied menu built from the five food groups: breads/cereals, fruits, vegetables, meats/fish, and dairy -- and your skin will love you for it. Keep "junk food" to a minimum.

Exercise

Regular exercise maintains circulation and speeds blood to the surface of the skin for regeneration. It also alleviates the negative effects of stress.

Stress

Stress can wreak havoc on the skin, sometimes causing blemishes, hives, loss of color, and circles under the eyes. Habitually tense facial expressions can even permanently line the skin. Practice relaxing the facial muscles to ease the tension created by constant frowning or furrowing the brows.

Toxic Substances

Smoking and drinking may feel good and help relieve stress, but here's what they're doing to your skin:

 Smoking constricts the facial capillaries, which allows less blood, oxygen, and nutrients to the skin. End result? Makes you look older. Smoking also wrinkles the skin around the eyes and mouth.

 Alcohol and caffeine are diuretics that Dec 1992 May 2005 force moisture out of your system and age Actress Melanie Griffith has smoked for years…and it shows. the skin. Photos from WireImage.com © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 34

So now that you know all the details about cell growth, moisture, and the correlation between healthy living and beautiful skin, let's talk about the best ways to care for your skin.

Caring For Your Skin

To figure out what you need to do with your skin, you first need to determine your skin type.

With a clean face under good lights or natural light, study your complexion for a few minutes in a mirror.

Start with an examination of the T-Zone. Follow by looking at the cheeks and eye area.

Take your time and look at the following characteristics: texture, pore size, blemishes, and fine lines. The T-Zone is the t-shaped region of the face that includes the Since your skin type can change over time due forehead, nose and chin. The skin to things like natural aging, change of seasons, here is often different from skin in the cheek and eye areas health, and lifestyle, it's important to be in tune because it is usually somewhat to the needs of your skin at any given time and oilier than the rest of the face. care for it accordingly.

Here are the characteristics of the different types of skin:

NORMAL SKIN "Normal" skin is the least common skin type; most people have combination skin. But if you're one of those lucky few who do have normal skin, you'll recognize it by these characteristics:

 Uniform texture and pigmentation  Clear, soft, and supple appearance  No oily sheen or dry spots  Few or no blemishes  Small pore size  Few or no lines © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 35

The goal is to maintain balance. Recommended skin care regime:

 Wash with a gentle, water-soluble cleanser twice a day  Apply moisturizer after cleansing  Use sunscreen every day  Use masks and exfoliate occasionally

When your skin doesn’t cause you problems, it’s easy to neglect it – but don’t! If you keep up a simple regime of cleaning and moisturizing, you’ll be able to maintain that “perfect skin” for years to come.

DRY SKIN Dry skin occurs when the body fails to produce enough sebum (oil) to keep the skin moisturized. It feels dry and flaky to the touch, lacks suppleness, and tends to wrinkle easily. Common in older people, dry skin can also be caused by cold weather, hot sun, and low humidity.

You probably have dry skin if:

 Your skin appears taut, fragile, or dull  Your forehead is prone to fine lines  You have fine pores  Blemishes are rare  Your skin is prone to flaking  You have fine lines around your eyes and mouth

The goal is to keep the dry areas moist. Mature skin is like dry skin, only drier, Recommended skin care regime: thinner, and with more lines. Since mature skin doesn't retain moisture, it  Wash face at night only with a needs emollient-enriched moisturizers non-drying product that supply adequate oil and help bind  Apply rich moisturizer twice a water to skin. day

 Use sunscreen every day  Use a retinal or alpha-hydroxy product once a week

Avoid skin products that contain alcohol and keep masks, peels, and exfoliations to a minimum. Using too many products too often will further dry the skin.

OILY SKIN Oily skin occurs when the body produces an excess of sebum (oil), usually in the “T-Zone.” It can look shiny and feel oily and is prone to blackheads and acne.

You probably have oily skin if:

 You have an oily sheen throughout the day  Enlarged pores, especially on the nose and chin  A lot of blackheads  Frequent breakouts  Your skin does not hold makeup well  The skin appears soft and supple around the eyes  There are minimal fine lines around the eyes and mouth

The goal is to clean the skin without stripping it of essential oils. Recommended skin care regime:

 Wash skin twice daily with a non-soap cleanser designed for oily skin  If you have frequent breakouts, try a cleanser with salicylic acid  Use light moisturizers that are oil-free and non-comedogenic  Use oil-free sunscreen every day  Exfoliate and use masks once a week or as needed

Many people with oily skin tend to skip the moisturizer in their regime. Do so with caution. You can still get wrinkles if you have oily skin, so pay attention to how your skin feels. If it feels tight and dry, add moisturizer.

COMBINATION SKIN Combination skin is perhaps the most common type of skin, with a combination of two types of skin on the face. Some parts may be normal to dry or normal to oily, and it can be tricky to care for. You probably have combination skin if:

 Cheeks may feel dry or very dry, depending on the weather

The goal is to balance care of the normal skin with the oily or dry skin. Recommended skin care regime:

 Wash face twice a day with a gentle, non-soap cleanser  Apply a light-weight, oil-free moisturizer to the oily parts and a rich moisturizer to the dry parts twice a day  Apply oil-free sunscreen every day  Exfoliate with alpha-hydroxy acids once a week or as needed

Taking care of two types of skin on one face can be a challenge, but it’s worth the effort to maintain a calm, clear complexion.

SENSITIVE SKIN Sensitive skin is thin and fine-textured and tends to be found most frequently in natural blondes and red-heads. Sensitive skin burns easily, becomes red in the cold, and reacts strongly to abrasive products.

You probably have sensitive skin if:

 You burn easily in the sun  Your skin turns red in cold weather or in strong wind  You sometimes have adverse and/or allergic reactions to substances like makeup, soaps, alcohol, sunscreen, perfume, and certain fabrics  You have thin, fine-textured skin

Because the skin is thin and sensitive, it’s important to read labels carefully when looking for products. Recommended skin care regime:

 Wash with a gentle fragrance-free, dye-free cleanser. Avoid anything with alcohol or acids  Use a gentle, scent-free moisturizer  Use an unscented, non-comedogenic sunscreen; avoid products with PABA  Apply cream antioxidants once a week or as needed

Seasonal Skin Care

Once you get the daily basics down, you need to be aware that you skin can act differently in summer and winter. Too much heat and humidity can make skin go from normal to oily seemingly overnight, just as cold weather and dry central heat can dry out otherwise normal skin. So keep those extremes in mind each season -- or if you travel to a climate that has temperatures very different from where you live.

SUMMER SKIN CARE

When the temperature heats up and you’re lounging in the sun, you can find yourself with oily skin because of the heat and humidity -- or dry, sun-damaged skin from too much time in the water and sun. In general:

Wash carefully to clean excess oil and apply moisturizer as needed.

Use Lighter Moisturizer

Sebum oil production general increases in the heat, so switch to a lighter formulation of moisturizer than you use in the dead of winter.

…Except

If you’re in the water or out in the sun a lot, moisturize with a heavier formulation to help put back essential oils. If your skin feels particularly dry, try a soothing moisturizing mask.

Use Sunscreen

Whatever your skin color, whatever your skin type, the sun will cause you to age. Protect your body against its rays and avoid its harmful effects.

Treat Sunburn Seriously

There are some great after-sun products on the market that can help soothe sunburn. Use them. Then stay out of the sun for a few days to give the burned areas a chance to heal.

WINTER SKIN CARE

Dry, cold air will rob your skin of essential moisture, leaving you feeling tight and dry. So stop the itching – and unnecessary aging – before the coldest weather sets in.

Moisturize

Whatever your skin type, you need to moisturize in the winter. Heaters and furnaces dry the air they heat and cause your skin to dry even more. The colder it is, the more often they run, and the more moisture that gets sucked from your skin. That’s why your face feels taut and your lips crack so often this time of year. If you can, use a humidifier during the winter to add moisture back to the air.

Bathe Less Often

If you have normal or dry skin, consider bathing less often—say every other day instead of every day. Excessive bathing can strip the skin of oil and cause it to crack and peel.

Also, since many bath soaps are drying to the skin, you may want to switch to a cream cleanser this time of year. Be wary of deodorants and creams that contain alcohol, which can also be very drying. Use a moisturizing skin cream that does not contain perfumes (perfume contains alcohol), especially after bathing.

Drink Plenty of Water

I know—you’re tired of this one, but it’s true. Hydrate from within, and keep your skin soft and supple. Want another reason? It will fill up your stomach and keep you from snacking as much. You’ll fit into your swimsuit more easily come summer time.

Don’t Forget the Sun Screen

Although there are fewer hours of sunlight during the winter, damage from the sun is still a concern. Always use sunscreen with a SPF of 15 or greater when out in the sun for any duration.

If you snow ski, sunscreen becomes extra important. The sun's rays are reflected off the shiny surface of snow and ice, and can be almost as intense as the summer sun. Yes, you can get sunburned. What’s more, the altitude puts you that much closer to the sun, so this extra step is a must for healthy skin.

If you tend to forget about daily sun protection, select makeup with sun-blocking properties. There are many on the market that contain both SPF and UVA and UVB protection, so why not go the all-in-one route and give yourself one less thing to worry about?

NOTE TO TRAVELERS: If you’ll be traveling to a region different than your own, remember that you may need to adjust your skin care again at your new destination. If you’ll be heading to the mountains for some skiing, for example, stock up on the moisturizer, sun screen, and lip balm. If you’ll be relaxing in the tropics away from the cold, take lighter moisturizers and plenty of sunscreen.

Keeping your skin soft and supple during the cold winter months can be a challenge, particularly if you’re trying to do it with products more suitable to warm weather. Go lighter on the cleansers, heavier on the moisturizers, and always use plenty of sunscreen.

Acne and Rosacea

Now that we’ve talked about the different types of skin, let’s take a look at two of the most common skin care problems people encounter: acne and rosacea.

ACNE Acne is the term used to describe plugged pores (blackheads and whiteheads), pimples, and deeper lumps (cysts and nodules) that occur on the face, neck, chest, back, and upper arms. Nearly 100% of people between the ages of 12 and 17 have at least an occasional whitehead, blackhead, or pimple, regardless of race or ethnicity. While many are able to control Normal follicle them with over-the-counter solutions, approximately 40% of teenagers turn to a © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 41

dermatologist for help.

Boys tend to get acne worse than girls, but are less likely to seek professional help. Girls, on the other hand, tend to get acne more intermittently due to hormonal changes associated with their menstrual cycle, and with the use of cosmetics. For some, it may last their entire reproductive Whitehead comedone life. Pictures courtesy of Acne.org Hormones

Studies reveal that many menstruation-age women tend to see an increase in acne the week before they menstruate, and may experience breakouts for 7 to 10 days. While many women with chronic acne see an improvement during pregnancy, some breakout more than ever while they’re pregnant. It’s directly attributed to the levels of estrogen and progestin in their bodies, and can be treated with hormone therapy.

Medication

Some medications can also contribute to acne, particularly those containing hormones. Typical culprits include:

 Testosterone  Gonadotrophin  Anabolic Steroids  Corticosteroids  Anti-epileptic  Anti-tuberculosis  Lithium  Cyclosporin  Medications containing iodine or bromine

Always tell your dermatologist which medication you’re taking in order to ensure the best care possible.

Genetics

Does acne run in families? Since some families do seem to suffer from it more than others, it certainly appears to be the case. But while many scientists agree that there is an apparent genetic tendency, there is no “acne gene.” The best thing a person with a familial history of bad acne can do is to consult a dermatologist to help moderate the disease.

Cosmetics

Many people break out simply because they’re either allergic to the cosmetics they use or the product clogs their pores. Others find that dirty makeup tools— sponges, brushes, fingertips—can aggravate their condition.

If you suffer from acne, make sure that the products you use are non- comedogenic -- meaning that they don’t cause comedones (a.k.a. pimples). The package should say non-comedogenic; if it doesn’t, do NOT assume that it is. What’s more, even if it says it’s non-comedogenic, discontinue use if you break out. Some combinations of products can plug pores, even if they’re not supposed to.

Finally, regularly clean or replace your application tools. Why contribute to the problem any more than necessary?

How to Combat Acne

One of the first things most people do when they see a whitehead or blackhead on their skin is get close to the mirror, put fingers on either side of the offending eruption, and squeeze like there’s no tomorrow. It’s one of those knee-jerk reactions, like stomping on the brakes when your car starts spinning on a patch of ice.

Don’t do it.

Not only will you risk spreading the contents of the clogged pore to the skin surrounding the pimple, aggressive squeezing can damage your skin. Oh, you may think you’re getting away with it in your teens and twenties, but your skin will start to tell the tale by the time you’re 35. And it’s not pretty.

So what can you do instead?

Here are the basic guidelines recommended by dermatologists:

1. Do NOT pop, squeeze, or pick acne. Comedones should only be removed by an experienced health care professional.

2. Gently wash your face twice a day with mild cleanser and pat dry. Vigorous scrubbing can irritate your skin and even cause comedones to break, spreading their contents. Use acne products to treat acne – don’t try to scrub off pimples.

3. Use “non-comedogenic” cosmetics and toiletries.

4. Avoid things that can irritate your acne, like oils, airborne grease, perfumes, fingernail polish, resting your head in your hand, etc. Also be sure to change your towels, pillowcase, and sheets regularly.

5. Give acne products time to do their job. While you may hope your pimple clears up overnight, it might actually take a few days or a week. Ask your dermatologist or pharmacist how long it should take for the product to work.

6. Since some acne products can make skin UV sensitive, avoid sunlight and tanning booths while using them. Wear protective clothing and use ample sunscreen.

There are many good acne treatment products on the market including:

Proactiv® Solution www.proactive.com

Murad® Acne Complex Kit www.sephora.com

What if your acne doesn’t respond to over-the-counter treatments? Then consult a dermatologist. There are lots of new formulations that are available by prescription. You’ll no doubt find the one that’s right for you.

So what’s the bottom line with acne?

Everyone gets some form of acne at some point in her life. If you know the triggers—things like hormones, medication, and cosmetics—you can work with

your dermatologist to manage your breakouts with ease. Use cosmetics sparingly, particularly if you have a history of acne, and discontinue use promptly if breakouts occur.

You may not be able to eliminate acne, but you can certainly manage and minimize its impact.

ROSACEA Rosacea [roh-ZAY-sha] is often confused with acne because it causes facial redness and swelling. While scientists still don’t know what causes the disease, both heredity and environmental factors seem to play a part. Also, fair skinned, blue-eyed people tend to contract roseacea more than any

other group. From Rosacea.org

Many who have the disease don’t know they have it. Their face becomes red and acne-like, and they tend to blush or flush easily. Over time, it progresses to a persistent redness, with pimples and visible blood vessels in the center of the face that might eventually involve the cheeks, forehead, chin, and nose. Famous rosacea suffers include W.C. Fields and former President Clinton.

About half the people who have rosacea get it around the eyes and on the eyelids. They might also experience burning and grittiness of the eyes—known as conjunctivitis—and find that their vision blurs and their eyes become bloodshot. If the condition goes untreated, it can lead to serious vision problems.

So what triggers rosacea?

Sun exposure, emotional stress, alcohol, spicy foods, exercise, cold wind, and hot food, drinks, and baths can all lead to a breakout. Even persistent coughing has been known to trigger the condition.

While rosacea can be controlled by medication and lifestyle changes, it’s best done under a dermatologist’s supervision. While it mimics other skin care conditions, over-the-counter solutions do not work well on rosacea. Early diagnosis and treatment are the keys to preventing serious harm and extensive scarring.

Skin Care as You Age

“You can tell yourself that you’re not aging,” my brother told me on his 40th birthday, “But when you see your kids grow and change, you can’t deny the passage of time.”

Nor should you.

While you may look and feel the same as you did ten or fifteen years ago, your body’s needs are changing. Just as you transformed from a girl into a woman during puberty, so will you change as your menstrual cycles end. The raging hormones that sent your feelings and acne into overdrive as a teenager will have an equally profound effect on your body before, during, and after menopause.

Knowing what’s going on with your skin during all of this can have a huge impact on how you care for it. Don’t use the same products year after year JUST because that’s what you’ve always used. Give it more thought than that, particularly if your skin is suddenly not responding as expected to a product you’ve used for a long time.

Instead, if you adapt your skin care to mirror your body’s needs as the years pass, you can stave off the effects of hormonal changes and look younger longer. There’s no need to be “over the hill” at 40 anymore, thanks to the wonders of science. Determine what your skin needs and treat it accordingly. You’ll be astounded by the results.

To get an idea of how your skin changes, here’s what happens as the decades pass:

20’s

In your 20’s, your skin’s top layer renews every three weeks. You may still get pimples like you did as a teen, but they tend to go quickly because of your rapid cell turnover. Keep makeup light and in line with your skin type (dry, normal, oily). Also start to take care of the delicate skin around your eyes. To keep skin healthy and sufficiently moisturized, use a mild glycolic or salicylic

acid-based face cream at night. Ziyi Zhang

30’s

In your 30’s, cell turnover slows, leaving you with an uneven skin tone. Opt for concealer to even things out, and adapt your skin care to include retinoid, a Vitamin A derivative that’s available in many skin care lines. Continue to take extra special care of the skin around your eyes. Cate Blanchett

40’s

In your 40’s, estrogen levels fall and your skin starts to dry out. You may also start to gain weight from the foods you’ve always eaten as a result of the lower hormone levels, becoming thick through the middle. Reduce the amounts of carbohydrates you eat (chips, potatoes, desserts), increase the amount of protein you eat (meat, fish, dairy), and fill your skin care drawer with hydrating

products. For night, try an anti-aging cream that contains phytoestrogens such as soy or wild yam. And don’t forget Angela Bassett about the skin on your neck – moisturize, or it will start to show age soon enough.

50’s

In your 50’s, your skin may begin to sag as diminished estrogen levels reduce your skin cell renewal rate to a snail’s pace. To combat lines and wrinkles that may appear around the eyes, nose and mouth, try a prescription-strength retinoid to minimize wrinkles and improve skin tone. Also continue to adapt your moisturize to drier and drier skin,

including that around your eyes and neck. Ellen Barkin

60’s +

In your 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s, normal to dry skin are most common and age spots may be very noticeable. How you cared for your skin in your youth will become obvious now, including acne scars, sun damage, and smoking. Increase elasticity with plenty of moisturizer, including some retinol products

Joan Collins Images courtesy of WireImage.com

So what can you do every day to maintain a youthful glow? We talked about some of these earlier:

1. Stay Out of the Sun

Sun damage is the #1 reason why skin ages quickly. There’s no such thing as a “healthy” tan, so don’t fool yourself. Apply sunscreen diligently when you’re out in the sun, and use a self-tanner if you want the look of a tan without the skin damage that comes with it.

2. Don’t Smoke

Besides the obvious health risks of cancer, osteoporosis, respiratory disease, and the like, nicotine also constricts the blood vessels, which interferes with a healthy circulatory system. The result? Saggy, puffy, sallow-looking skin that suddenly appears in the late 30’s or early 40’s in people who started smoking in their teens. If you smoke, do yourself a favor: quit!

3. Drink Alcohol in Moderation

Alcohol, like nicotine, constricts the blood vessels. When used in high doses for a long period of time, it can also make skin saggy, puffy, and sallow-looking, aging it before its time. Use in moderation or not at all.

4. Eat a Balanced Diet

Remember the food pyramid that you learned about in grade school?

Grains, meats, fruits, vegetables, and dairy are all essential for a healthy body and luminous skin. Skip the chocolate, go light on the lattes, and avoid foods with ingredients you can’t pronounce. Your budget, waistline, and skin will all thank you for it.

5. Get Plenty of Rest

If you took a poll around your office or social circle, you’d probably find that most of the people would describe themselves as “sleep deprived.” You can only burn the candle at both ends for so long before it takes its toll and ages you before your time. Schedule time to yourself, and aim for the recommended eight hours of sleep. You’ll be amazed how refreshed you’ll feel.

Adjusting your skin care as you age isn’t difficult, and the result can be profound. There’s no need to glance in the mirror one day when you’re in your 50’s and wonder who in the world that old lady is looking back at you. Give your skin the nourishment it needs as the years pass and keep people guessing about your true age.

Remember: This is the only skin you get. If you don’t take care of it, no one will.

Product Glossary

Skin care is a multi-billion dollar industry, and there seems like there are a billion products on the market. Do you need all of them? No. In fact, using too many peels or exfoliants can strip the skin of essential oils, drying it out, while slathering on too much oil-ladened moisturizer can clog pores and lead to breakouts. The key is moderation. Here is what you should have on hand for daily use:

 Cleanser, to remove dirt, makeup, excess oils, pollutants, etc.

 Toner, to remove any residue left behind from the cleansing step and to prepare the skin for moisturizing (usually appropriate for oily skin or combination oily skin)

 Moisturizer, to hydrate skin and create a barrier that slows natural moisture loss

 Sunscreen, to protect the skin from harmful UV rays that age and break down skin. Many moisturizers and makeup foundations have sunscreen built right in these days.

Once you have your daily routine down with products that work well for your skin type, you’re well on your way to beautiful skin. But do you need anything else? Maybe. It depends on special needs you may have.

Other products on the market that you might use on a daily or occasional basis might include:

 Eye Makeup Remover is specially formulated to dissolve makeup, including waterproof mascara. Eye makeup removers are gentler on the delicate eye area than most face cleansers.

 Eye Balms are moisturizers specifically TIP formulated for use around the delicate eye area, and can help slow aging in the area for those When applying products to with dry or normal skin. the eye area, use the fourth finger of your hand, the one nearest the pinky. It’s  Exfoliating Scrubs help accelerate the skin's the weakest finger and will natural exfoliation process without scratching the apply the least amount of skin's surface. They can also give a quick boost pressure to the delicate eye to tired, dull-looking skin. area.

 Deep Cleansing Masks are usually made with special clays, and they are particularly beneficial when skin feels oily. They cleanse, purify, and unclog pores. Do NOT use one on the same day you use an exfoliating scrub, as you may strip your skin of essential oils.

 Hydrating Masks are really beneficial when the skin is dry and dehydrated, like in the dead of winter when you're stuck inside with hot, dry central heat.

 Alpha Hydroxy Formulas usually tighten and tone the skin's surface while enhancing the performance of regular moisturizers.

 Night Time Moisturizers are designed to revitalize dry skin while you sleep; heavy-duty night time treatments are becoming more and more popular with baby boomers.

So what’s the key to successful skin care? Moderation. Again, don't suffocate dry skin with the heaviest moisturizer you can find or strip oily skin of every drop of oil. Your goal is moisturize where dry, and remove excess oil as necessary without drowning or over processing your skin with products.

Proceed slowly when trying new products, particularly if you have sensitive skin. Your skin may react favorably or negatively within minutes of trying the new product, or it may take a couple of days to rebel. Don't change your entire skin care regime the week before your wedding, or your big silver anniversary bash, for example, or you could have a crisis on your hands.

Do Higher Priced Products Deliver Higher Quality?

If you pay premium prices for cosmetics and skin care, you no doubt do so because you feel that the higher price translates to higher quality goods. Department store brands MUST be better than drugstore brands, or they wouldn’t charge so much more for them -- right?

“Not necessarily,” says consumer advocate Paula Begoun, author of The Beauty Bible and Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me. “Price has its own tricky, elusive attraction. The ingredient list is the only place where a consumer can readily find the truth about what she is buying.”

That said, many high priced brands cite exotic ingredients like bovine extraction, wild yam extract, emu oil, royal jelly, and the like to justify the sometimes downright outrageous price tags they put on their goods. But if you study the ingredient list, you’ll often find these special items listed near the bottom of the list, meaning that they’re only present in trace amounts. Is it enough to justify the price? Probably not, according to Begoun.

So why the huge difference in price?

Often, it has nothing to do with the product, but everything to do with the packaging, advertising, store rental, and sales staff required to get the product to you. There’s a certain cachet involved with buying high-priced cosmetics at an

exclusive store, and the luxury brands darn well know it. In fact, they’ve worked hard to cultivate the perception.

Have you ever noticed that department store cosmetics never go on sale? They’ll offer free gifts with purchases over a certain amount, but the cosmetics themselves are never discounted. Ever.

That’s because while consumers will happily snap up their favorite designer apparel and accessories on sale at department stores, this same type of discounting just doesn’t translate well to the cosmetics counter. It cheapens them in the consumers’ eyes, so it’s not done.

What’s more, if you think about it, most department stores participate in price fixing of cosmetics, so you end up paying the same price for the same brand whether you buy it at Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Nordstrom’s, or wherever. No, it’s not talked about to avoid raising questions of antitrust, but yes, it does happen.

Want yet another head scratcher on this price versus quality issue? Take a look at just who owns whom in the cosmetics game:

Estée Lauder L’Oreal Procter & Gamble

Aramis BioMedic Cover Girl Aveda Biotherm Max Factor Bobbi Brown Lancôme Olay Clinique La Roche Posay Crème de la Mer Maybelline Johnson & Johnson Tommy Hilfiger Helena Rubinstein Jane Vichy Aveeno M.A.C. Clean & Clear Origins Neutrogena Prescriptives RoC Stila

So does a company like L’Oreal, who owns both department store brands and discount store brands, buy the raw materials for their products from different manufacturers, based on the end usage?

No, according to Begoun. In fact, there are no gradations on most cosmetic ingredients. Either the products are approved for use in the countries where they’re sold, or they’re not.

Now the crux in all of this is that most women tend to be very brand loyal. They’ll find a brand of cleanser, moisturizer, mascara, or lipstick that they really like, for example, and because the sales clerk tells them that the products in the line work best with the other products in the line, they faithfully buy a range of products from that line – and then can’t figure out why they don’t like some of them.

It all goes back to the ingredient list. Cosmetic lines are made to appeal to a vast array of skin types. So while some of the products may work beautifully for you, others may not. Don’t despair. Stick with the ones you like, return or dispose of the ones you don’t.

The key is to EDUCATE YOURSELF. If you don’t, you’ll spend a lot more money than you need to for status brands that may work for you at best, or create an adverse reaction on your skin at worst.

To benefit from others’ experiences BEFORE you plunk down your hard-earned money at a cosmetics counter, take a few minutes to peruse some of the skincare and makeup review sites on the web, including:

 CosmeticConnection.com http://www.cosmeticconnection.com

 CosmeticsCop.com http://www.cosmeticscop.com

 MakeupAlley.com http://www.makeupalley.com

Just because a skincare or makeup line costs a lot of money DOESN’T necessarily mean you’re getting a superior product. Determine your skin’s needs (whether it be dry, oily, acne-prone, or whatever), learn what products help or exacerbate the situation, and start reading labels. You may be able to find precisely what you need at a price that doesn’t make you see red.

Great Skin Care Sites

Looking for more information on getting your skin in tip-top shape? Try some of these sites:

Neutrogena http://www.caringforyourskin.com

Read articles, take a skin evaluation test, and stroll through their online library of skin care problems and solutions.

DermNet NZ http://www.dermnet.org.nz/index.html

Looking for more information about a skin condition you have? Check out this comprehensive resource from The New Zealand Dermatological Society.

Skinema http://www.skinema.com/

Vail Reese, MD, a dermatologist and movie buff, has put together a fun and informative site about skin care conditions in the movies. What kind of skin does the villain always have? What do you look for in a heroine’s complexion? See for yourself at Skinema.com.

So...there you have it. Lots of information, but well worth learning:

 Find your skin type  Develop a daily routine the works  Treat trouble spots  Consider seasonal changes  Consider changes as you age

If you do that, you’ll have beautiful skin for years.

3 THE BASICS OF MAKEUP

“Beauty, to me, is about being comfortable in your own skin. That, or kick-ass red lipstick.” --Gwyneth Paltrow

Women have been using makeup since Greek and Roman times to enhance their features and downplay their negative attributes. The premise is still true today, but a glance around any shopping mall, grocery store, or business office shows that while some women understand how to apply makeup and use it to their advantage, just as many don’t.

Too much makeup says cheap and unsuitable. Too little says incomplete or unsophisticated. Inappropriate or incorrectly applied color or placement says unschooled or outdated.

Since studies show that women in the corporate world who wear properly applied makeup earn 20 percent more than women who don't, taking a little time to polish your business face could mean a nice increase in your income.

Now obviously there are times when little or no makeup is appropriate, like when exercising, swimming, sleeping, etc. But if you want to take advantage of all the opportunities that come your way, knowing how to appropriately apply makeup for different situations will help you reach your goals faster. You don’t wear the same clothes and shoes for all your activities; neither should you wear the same makeup for everything.

No makeup needed Soft and simple works Powerful business Go glam for evening when exercising for most attire calls for a informal situations strong face

So where do you begin to learn about makeup?

With color.

The Importance of Color

All colors are derived from the three primary hues: red, yellow, and blue.

Yellow is warm, blue is cool, and red is neither warm nor cool but “in-between.” When you add yellow, you get a warmer tone. When you add blue, you get a cooler tone.

People can likewise be classified as having either "warm" or "cool" undertones depending on their unique combination of melanin, carotene, and hemoglobin. The undertone you're born with never changes; it simply deepens with a tan and fades with age.

So based on your yellow or blue undertone, you'll look best in colors that are either yellow or blue based. Your skin, hair, and eyes react to the colors around them, absorbing colors that match your undertone and reflecting colors that oppose it. That’s why some brides look great in white but others look better in ivory. It’s also why you look great in some colors and completely washed out in others.

So what does all of this have to do with makeup?

You need to know your skin tone to find the best makeup colors for you. Ever struggled to find the right color of foundation or lipstick? Don’t know if black or brown mascara looks better on you? Then determining whether you’re a cool or warm should help clear things right up.

There’s a whole chapter on color and color analysis in Wardrobe Magic, so I’ll direct you there for further details. But here’s a thumbnail sketch:

Sometime when you’re without makeup and preferably in natural light, hold up something silver and then something gold against your face (jewelry works well) as you look into a mirror.

Which one looks better against your skin and makes your eyes sparkle?

Do the same thing with a few garments you like and wear all the time and a few that fit but you never seem to wear.

What do you see?

 If you look better in silver than gold, red than orange, and navy blue than lime green, you probably have blue undertones in your skin and are a cool.

 If you look better in gold than silver, orange than red, and lime green than navy blue, you probably have yellow undertones in your skin, and are a warm.

Once you determine your undertone, there are a couple of simple rules you need to keep in mind when putting color on your face:

 Match the undertone of the colors you buy to the undertone of your skin.

 Wear colors from the same color family. Cool colors look best with other cool colors, warm colors look best with other warm colors.

Don't "mix and match" the color families, as this young woman did on the left:

This strawberry blonde has yellow This strawberry blonde has yellow (warm) undertones. Her pale pink skin tones, and her yellow-based lipstick seemingly drains the color makeup and lipstick make her skin from her face, making her look pale. look bright and vibrant.

See what a difference color choice can make? Using an opposing color palette with your skin tone will make you look washed out.

Types of Makeup

Now that we're straight on color, let's take a brief look at the different products you'll need for that professional look.

Background Makeup

Using background makeup on your face is like preparing a canvas for paint. It should conceal the imperfections and even out the skin tone without calling attention to itself.

Foundation

Besides clear, clean skin, the best way to create a flawless background is by using the right foundation makeup.

First, determine your skin's needs:

 If you have normal-to-oily skin or live in a hot, humid climate, you'll probably want an oil-free or powder

foundation.

 If your skin is normal-to-dry or if you live in a dry or cold climate, a liquid or cream foundation will better suit.

Second, match your skin tone as closely as possible. Makeup that is too light will look chalky and mask-like. Foundation that is too dark can accentuate fine lines and wrinkles.

Foundation should complement your skin's undertone.

 Choose a blue-based foundation if your skin is cool with a pink-blue undertone. Cool colors might have names like ivory, bisque, or mocha.

 Choose a warm, yellow-based foundation if your complexion is warm with a yellow or golden undertone. Warm colors might have names like honey, beige, or natural.

If you can, try them on a clean face in natural light before you buy to determine the closest match. If you can't find precisely the color you need, do what makeup © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 58

artists do: mix colors from the two closest-matching shades. There’s nothing like a unique formulation to get precisely the right color.

Also remember that facial color can change with the seasons, depending on if you tan. Foundation color needs to be adjusted accordingly.

Concealer

Concealer provides extra coverage for dark under-eye circles, birthmarks, blemishes, and any other skin imperfections. Again, it should match your skin tone and be formulated for your skin type.

Loose Powder

Loose powder sets foundation and helps it last longer. It's also great for reducing oily shine any time of day. Use sparingly if you have dry skin, or look for moisturizing formulations.

Feature Makeup

Feature makeup goes on after the background has been applied and is used to enhance eyes, cheeks and lips.

Eye shadow adds shape, color and contour to eyes. You’ll use two or three different shades from the same color family to highlight and accent your eyes.

Eye Liner outlines, defines and further enhances the eyes. Some women prefer eyeliner pencils while others swear by liquid liner. Use whichever you prefer.

Mascara further enhances the eyes by creating thicker, fuller

lashes.

Blush provides natural color and contour to cheeks. It comes in both cream and powder formulas.

Lipstick adds color to the lips and can include sun block and or/lip moisturizers to protect and moisturize the lips.

Now that you've gathered your arsenal of products, let's go over some basic application techniques.

Basic Application

Let's begin with foundation.

1. Dot foundation on to forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin.

2. Using a cosmetic sponge, blend foundation across forehead, toward the temples, and out to the hairline.

3. Then blend down the nose, cheeks, and chin, wrapping and blending away at the jawline. Always apply in a downward motion to minimize appearance of facial hair.

4. Make sure foundation is blended carefully, especially around the nose and eyes.

5. Be sure to bring foundation up to the bottom lashline.

When applied correctly, foundation should be invisible and look natural. If foundation is visibly sitting on the skin, then one of two things is happening:

1. You've applied too much. Remove excess with a clean sponge.

2. Foundation is too dry for your skin type. Try a different formulation with a heavier moisture base.

Once you’ve put on your foundation, you may discover that you need additional coverage in some areas. Grab your concealer. Use concealer when you want to downplay skin imperfections like dark circles under the eyes, freckles, blemishes, etc. © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 60

 To conceal a dark area, use a concealer that's a shade lighter than the skin tone. If you’re trying to hide dark circles under your eyes, opt for products that are specially designed for the delicate eye area.

 To hide birthmarks, freckles, or blemishes, use a concealer that's the same shade as your skin. Avoid oil-based products that might clog pores.

 To hide redness, apply a tinted neutralizer for your skin tone under your foundation.

Dot concealer on the problem area and blend with fingertips or a cosmetic sponge. Apply again if necessary.

Don't overcorrect or you'll draw more attention to whatever it is you're trying to hide.

Once you’ve smoothed out your complexion and minimized all the imperfections, it’s time for a dusting of loose powder. Loose powder sets foundation and helps minimize shine.

For a light application, dip powder brush into loose powder. Tap off excess and dust lightly over face.

For a heavier application, use a powder puff and work powder into foundation with a patting and rolling motion. Brush away any excess with your powder brush.

Be sure to blend everything carefully. Too much loose powder will cake in fine lines and look chalky and mask-like.

Because loose powder is messy, don’t carry it around in your handbag for touch-ups during the day. Instead, opt for a pressed powder compact instead.

Once you have the background makeup in place, it's time to move to your feature colors.

Now earlier I said that you should vary your makeup for the different activities in your life, like downtime, work, and special occasions. You should also keep current with different colors and area emphasis (eyes, lips), since those vary from season to season in the fashion industry. Doing so will allow you to look current and trendy without spending a lot of money to do so.

For example, you can use makeup to:

Call attention to the eyes… …or to the lips… …or match face to clothes

Don’t fall into a makeup “rut.” Use different makeup color and application techniques to draw attention to your assets.

That said, let’s look at some basic, day-to-day ways to apply feature makeup.

Eyebrows frame the eyes and are one of the most expressive features of the face. We’ll talk about eyebrows in more detail in a later chapter, so I’ll just give you some basic guidelines here:

 Brush brows with an eyebrow brush to groom and shape.

 Tweeze any hairs that obviously lie outside of the brow's natural shape.

 Use an eyebrow pencil in a shade similar to your hair to add color to brows that are colorless, require shape correction, or to fill in sparse areas.

Eye shadow, eye liner, and mascara can produce a number of effects, depending on how it's applied.

Here’s a basic two-shade design that you can use for everyday wear.

1. Apply a light shade from lashline to brow.

2. Apply a medium to dark shade in the crease and blend up toward the brow bone. After applying color, use an eye pencil to further outline, define, and enhance the eyes. Experiment with different colors to brighten and accent the eyes.

3. The simplest technique is to line the eyes close to the lashline to shape and enhance.

A thin line at the base of the lashes makes lashes appear thicker. A thick line gives eyes more drama.

4. Blend with a foam-tip smudger to soften the line.

5. Opt for liquid liner if you want a more dramatic effect.

Use mascara to emphasize long lashes or enhance short or light lashes.

6. Tilt head back and apply mascara to upper lashes with upward, rotating strokes. Then tilt head forward to apply mascara to lower lashes. Allow mascara to dry, then add a second coat, if desired.

Cheek color is designed to give a natural and subtle glow to the cheeks while also adding contour to the face. You can match it to your clothing, if you're so inclined, or you can stick with the same neutral shade if that suits your fancy. Cheek color should appear as a natural, light flush, and should not be obvious.

To apply, locate the cheek bone and apply cheek color directly underneath, blending up slightly.

Blush should not be placed any lower than the nose and no further in than the edge of the iris.

Keep blush away from the center of the face. Color applied too close to the nose closes in the face.

Don't apply blush in the area under the eyes because it will appear as a dark circle.

Remember to always dust-not paint-cheek color on to cheeks. Keep colors natural and subtle.

If you prefer cream blush, dot blush in an arc along cheekbone using a cosmetic sponge or finger. Extend color from just under the pupil of the eye out to the hairline, and blend.

For fade-proof color, apply cream blush, loose powder, powder blush, and loose powder again. Make sure blush is applied lightly and is well-blended to avoid any harsh lines.

Use a cotton ball or loose powder puff to blend the edges of cheek color into the surrounding skin.

Lip color is that all-important finishing touch that pulls your look together. Many women depend on lip color more than any other cosmetic to add brightness and to freshen up their appearance. Often, it's the last thing checked and the first thing renewed in a spare moment. What's more, changing colors is the fastest way to give a different look.

To apply, begin by choosing a lip liner that most closely matches your intended lipstick color. Lining lips gives shape and definition to the mouth. But don’t do what was so popular in the late 1980’s: lining lips with a dark color and filling in with a much lighter color. That style is outdated.

Place two dots on the upper lip on the area called the cupid's bow. Directly below, place two more dots on the lower lip. Then join the dots starting from the upper lip and working down and around.

Using a lip brush, apply your color inside and on the line you created with your lip liner.

That's it! Use these few steps for your most basic look. With a little practice, you can get application time down to five minutes or less.

Evening Makeup

What’s the difference between daytime and evening makeup? The lighting! Or more specifically, how natural or artificial lighting determines how colors are perceived.

In the daytime, natural light and the intense artificial lighting found in most office buildings render colors more intensely—which means that a little color goes a long way. If you put on an intense color of eye shadow or lipstick, it will be as clear as a bell to those who see it.

But darkness subdues colors. In order to appear “natural” in evening light, you need to exaggerate color and shape in order for them to be seen. Here’s how you do that:

1. Be heavier-handed for evening. Use more product or more intense color to bring out your eyes or your mouth. Remember: emphasize your eyes OR your mouth...not both at the same time. People won’t know where to look first.

2. Add glimmer and sparkle. Try that sparkling eye shadow you picked up on sale and aren’t sure what to do with. Dust your décolletage and shoulders with body glitter. Try that silver lipstick you’ve been thinking about.

3. Lay on the drama. Try some false eyelashes to make your eyelashes look longer and your eyes larger. Copy the intense eye makeup you’ve seen in your favorite fashion magazine. Or wear the most intense red lipstick you can find that matches your skin tone.

Evening is a fun time to get daring with clothes, hair, and makeup, so go for it. The more you play with makeup, the more you learn about it. So what if you don’t like it? Wash it off! It’s one of the easiest, regret-free ways to change your look. Give it a try!

Makeup as You Age

Once you have the basic application down, what should you think about as the years pass? Lots of things. Just as your body changes over time, so should your makeup products and routine. Here are some things to consider:

20’s

You’re just coming into your own and learning who you are. Experiment with different trends and different types of products and learn what looks good on you and what doesn’t. When in doubt, remember that mascara (black for cool skin tones, brown for warm) and translucent powder are appropriate for any occasion. Keira Knightley

30’s

Still play around with the trends, certainly, but by now you should have a good idea of what works for you and what doesn’t. Work on creating a signature look with your greatest asset, like your eyes or lips. You’re a grownup -- don’t be afraid to be “known” for something. Gwen Stefani

40’s

Update your signature style with a slightly toned-down look. As your skin begins to show the signs of age, you still want to call attention to your assets, but not to the imperfections that seem to sprout around this time, like creases around the eyes or mouth. Once you find the perfect concealer, you and your makeup should get along

just fine. Felicity Huffman 50’s

How do you conceal all those lines and wrinkles that have suddenly appeared? By keeping them AWAY from concealers and powders. That’s right. As you age, less becomes more. Moisturize more, conceal less, and you’ll discover that you’ll look and feel younger. Don’t hide behind makeup now – it will settle into lines and make

you appear older. Jane Seymour

60’s +

Repeat this word: neutrals. That’s what you want to have in your makeup drawer once you hit the big 6-0, because they work well with aging skin without calling attention to lines and wrinkles. Bright colors will call attention to the lines around them; neutrals won’t. So get a current haircut, moisturize heavily, and opt for neutral colors –

and look years younger than you are. Tina Turner

Looking great as the years pass doesn’t have to be traumatic. Find a look that’s uniquely yours and stay with it, adjusting as necessary as your skin ages. It’s the secret to looking great at any age.

Makeup Drawer Maintenance

If it’s been awhile since you’ve gone through your makeup drawer or sifted through the “quick fix” bag in your purse or even ventured into that shoebox of

makeup you keep under your bathroom sink, let me give you a good reason to do so: it’s probably expired.

Yep, makeup has a shelf life.

You may never know that by looking at the label because it’s not required by law to reveal that on the packaging. But industry experts and dermatologists agree that makeup can be easily contaminated.

When left unattended for months on end, it can spoil, discolor, and lose its potency. When used on moist skin, then closed up and tucked away in a dark purse or drawer, it can become an incubator for bacteria—which may lead to yeast, fungi, and mold. Want to put those kinds of things on your skin? No, probably not.

So how do you know if your makeup has gone bad? Here’s a guide to shelf life and spoilage indicators for various products:

MAKEUP SHELF LIFE

Foundation

Liquid Foundation lasts 3-6 months; cream foundation, 4-6 months.

Bottled foundation should last 3-6 months, but wide

mouthed jars can expose the product to more air and should probably be tossed sooner. Always apply with a sponge instead of your fingers. You'll know it's time to purchase a new bottle when the ingredients begin to settle or separate, the texture thickens or thins, or it develops a clay-like smell.

Concealer

Concealer lasts 6-8 months when dispensed from a tube; can last longer when in a large pencil-size format. As with liquid foundation, apply liquid concealer with a sponge instead of fingertips. Pencil concealers can be applied directly to face, but sharpen regularly to keep bacteria to a minimum.

Lipstick

Lipstick typically lasts one to three years. Oil-based lipsticks are a little less prone to contamination and tend to last longer when stored in the refrigerator. Signs of spoilage include color change or rancid smell. If it stings on application, or has a particularly nasty taste, throw it out.

Eye & Lip Pencils

Eye and lip pencils can last one to three years because the wax tends to minimize bacteria growth. Sharpen pencils once a week and keep the cap on when not in use to inhibit microbiotic growth. If the product is dry or crumbles in use, it’s time to throw it away.

Mascara

Mascara should be replaced every three months, just like your toothbrush. Never touch anything but your lashes with the brush, and don’t “pump” the applicator, since air tends to push bacteria back into the tube. Never share mascara your mascara with others.

Loose Powder

Loose powder can last for years, but may deteriorate if overexposed to light or heat. Keep tightly closed when not in use. If it looks lumpy or clumps, it's come into contact moisture and should be discarded.

Powder Compacts for Face/Cheek/Eye Color

Powder compacts typically last from one to three years. Signs of age include ghostly color, chalky texture, or cracking.

Nail Polish

Nail polish lasts one to two years, and is sometimes stamped with an expiration date. Over time, pigments separate, so shaking is necessary. If a good shaking doesn't mix it, get rid of it. Signs of spoilage include being excessively thick, dried out, or hard to apply smoothly.

Perfume

Perfume lasts up to three years. Store it in a cool dark place, out of the reach of direct sunlight. Watch for darkened color or a vinegary smell.

Natural Cosmetics

Natural cosmetics last about six months. Products labeled as "all natural" usually contain plant-derived ingredients (which are conducive to bacterial growth), or have no preservatives, and are therefore prone to spoil more readily than their synthetic counterparts.

SKIN CARE SHELF LIFE

Facial Cleansers & Moisturizers

These last about six months. Wide-mouth moisturizers, like wide-mouthed foundations, are more easily contaminated than pump or small-opening dispensers. If product separates, changes consistency, or develops an odd smell, discard.

Facial Toners

These can last up to one year. Apply to skin with a sterile cotton ball or pad instead of a washcloth.

Eye Creams

Eye creams last about one year. If your eyes water, burn, or puff up upon product usage, immediately discontinue use.

Tools

Just as your skin care and makeup products become contaminated, so too, can the tools that you use to apply them pick up oil and bacteria. Clean and replace regularly to ensure hygienic use.

Makeup Sponges

Opt for inexpensive, disposable makeup sponges to apply foundation and blend colors, and wash after each use. Replace once every two weeks or if the sponge begins to tear.

Brushes

Wash natural-bristle brushes once a month and synthetic brushes once a week. Run the brush bristles under warm water, and using mild soap or baby shampoo, work into a slight lather. Rinse brushes under cool running water until the water runs clear, then wrap the brushes in a clean hand towel and gently squeeze out any excess water. Lay the brushes flat and allow them to air dry overnight in a well lit, well ventilated area.

Keep Down Contamination

So now that you’ve looked at how to maintain your products, what’s the best way to keep contamination to a minimum? Here are some tips:

1. Always start skin care or makeup application with clean hands.

2. Whenever possible, avoid touching the product in the container by pouring it out into your hand or by using an applicator.

3. If you pour out too much into your hand, rinse it down the drain; don’t try to put it back into the container.

4. Don’t share your products with others.

5. Keep containers tightly closed when not in use.

6. Don’t use water, or even worse, saliva, to extend the product’s use or return it to its original consistency. Both can introduce bacteria into the mix and break it down that much faster.

If you buy a product that causes a skin reaction or doesn’t really work for you for whatever reason, try to return it to the store as soon as possible after you

discover this. You may be able to get your money back, or you may not, depending on the store’s policy.

Whatever you do, don’t just shove it to the back of your makeup drawer or medicine cabinet to deal with later. Not only will it take up space, it will probably go bad before you do something with it.

So what’s the easiest way to avoid such costly mistakes?

Use sample sizes whenever possible when trying new products. Many skin care lines offer such samples, and more and more cosmetic companies are following this trend. I recently picked up a package of 3 lipstick samples for $1.19, and will probably purchase one of the colors in a full size version very soon. To find sample sizes of products you’re considering, make a point of routinely checking the makeup aisle or counter where you usually buy your cosmetics.

So what’s the long and short of maintaining your makeup drawer?

1. Buy products that you’ll use up before they expire. 2. Discard anything that looks funny, smells funny, or changes consistency. 3. Touch the product as little as possible with your fingers. 4. Clean your application tools regularly. 5. Return or discard anything that doesn’t work for you.

If you follow these rules of thumb, you’ll be more inclined to only buy what you need, treat it properly, and succeed in getting your money’s worth before it spoils or looses its potency. Don’t gamble with contamination of your skin care or makeup products; treat them like the personal hygiene products that they are.

Great Makeup Sites

As with skin care, there are several good makeup sites on the web where you can learn more about makeup products and trends.

Here are some of my favorites:

Makeup Reviews

Want to try some different brands of makeup but afraid to make a mistake? Start your investigation on these sites, to see what others have to say:

 Cosmetic Connection http://www.cosmeticconnection.com

 E Make Me Up http://www.emakemeup.com

 Makeup 411 http://www.makeup411.com/

Makeup Techniques

Looking for some basic techniques? Try this site:

 Makeup Tip http://www.makeuptip.com

Makeup Super Sites

Where can you find great makeup online? Look here:

 My Beauty Center http://www.mybeautycenter.com

 Sephora http://www.sephora.com

4 YOUR EYEBROWS

“Discretion is being able to raise your eyebrow instead of your voice.” --Anonymous

Eyebrows are one of your face's best features. When they're well groomed, they enhance your eyes, frame your face, and even give you a signature look. But getting the shape right can take some practice. If you start with the basic shape that nature intended, you’re well on your way to finding the right look.

So does that mean that you shouldn’t pluck that Cro- Magnon “uni-brow” or fill in those skimpy hairs hooding your eyes? Not at all. It simply means that if you start with the basic shape you’re given, plucking or filling in as necessary, you’ll probably arrive at the most flattering

look. Trying to follow trends can lead you into rough waters, and doing nothing can make you come across as unkempt.

So let’s take a look.

There are five basic eyebrow shapes:

Round Angled Soft Angled Curved Flat

Lisa Kudrow Tyra Banks Angelina Jolie Salma Hayek Brooke Shiields

Images courtesy of WireImage.com

While eyebrow shapes have fallen in and out of vogue over the years, it doesn’t change the fact that there better and worse eyebrow shapes for each face shape. The key is to find the best shape for you. Here are some guidelines:

If your face is… Your best shape is… Your worst shape is…

Oval A brow that’s too highly Soft Angled. This enhances arched. It will give the the oval-shaped face best. face a look of perpetual surprise. Round

Soft Angled. It will make Round. It will make your your face look longer and face look rounder. thinner.

Heart-Shaped

Round. This will soften the Flat. This does nothing “pointed” chin. to balance the chin.

Oblong

Flat. It shortens the face, Soft Angled. It will making it look wider. make your face look longer.

Square or Angled or soft angled. Rounded. It won’t These balance the face and balance a square jaw. pull attention away from the square jaw.

Diamond or Flat. This will make the Angled or curved. These face appear shorter and visually narrow the face. wider than it is.

Now that you have the basic shapes, how should you go about getting them?

 If your brow is too thick or unruly, wax or pluck it into shape.

 If it’s too thin or too light, use an eyebrow pencil or powder to fill it in and enhance what you feel should be there. Keep colors in line

with your skin tone (no dark black brows for a red head, for example), and practice a bit if it’s unsteady at first.

Photos courtesy of Eyebrowz.com

So how do you go about this? Start with your face as a guide:

Brows should begin directly over the tear duct at the inner corner of the eye and rise in a gentle curve along the brow bone. The highest point in the arch should be just about even with the outer edge of the eye's iris, tapering down and ending at the outside corner of the eye.

To define the ideal brow length, line up a pencil parallel to the bride of the nose and then at an angel across the outer edge of the eyes.

Once you’ve determined the right length, arc, and width, it’s time to finish those brows.

Here’s what you’ll need:

 Slanted-tip tweezers  An eyebrow brush  Astringent to soften skin and anesthetize the area.  A well-lit (non-magnifying) mirror.  Small scissors to trim excess hair  Brow powder, a brow pencil and tinted brow gel  Brow stencil kit (optional)

Tweezing or Waxing Your Brows

If you have excess hair above, below, or between your eyebrows, consider plucking or waxing off that extra hair to get a more polished look. Here’s how:

 Brush brows upward.

 Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Don’t take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

 Soak a cotton ball in astringent and carefully wipe the area to be plucked.

 Hold tweezers at a 45º angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair growth. Use your natural shape as a guide. If you over- tweeze them into a different shape, they may not grow back in full.

 “Set” brows with a clear or tinted brow gel to hold them in place.

Filling in Your Brows

If your eyebrows are sparse and in need of filling in, grab an eyebrow pencil that complements your skin tone and hair color and draw on brows to add polish. Here’s how:

 Using a freshly sharpened eyebrow pencil, fill in sparse areas with light, quick strokes to draw in hair.

 For a natural finish, apply brow powder with a thin brush. Sweep it up and outward over brows.

 Use a clear or tinted brow gel to set brows in place. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.

Again, use your face as a guide to find the perfect shaped brows.

The Most Common Brow Mistakes

Over-Plucking

If a little is good, a lot is great, right? No! Over-plucking takes time to correct, and may not fill in completely. Let hair grow in for a month or so before you pluck again. Fill in any bare spots with eyebrow powder that matches or is Before After one shade darker than your brows.

Thin Ends

When the ends of your brows aren’t easily seen, you need to add a little color to balance them out. Fill in brows starting at the middle of the arch and work your way toward the end.

Too Short

If your brows end at the arch, they’ll make your eyes look smaller. So grab a pencil and fill them in along the brow bone. Make sure to use a pencil the same color as your brows for a natural look.

Unshapely

If you’ve over or under-plucked your brows, you need to fix them. Use a brow stencil to find the right shape and fill it in with an eyebrow pencil or brow powder. Carefully tweeze any hair that falls outside the stencil Before Using Stencil After shape.

Unruly

If you have never tweezed your brows or haven’t tweezed them in a while and they’re bushy and unruly, trim them with small scissors before tweezing to get rid of the excess hair. Then brush them back into place so you can see the natural shape. Carefully tweeze anything that is above or below the natural brow line.

Photos on this page courtesy of Eyebrowz.com

Waxing, Tweezing, and Threading

Should you wax, tweeze, or thread?

While all three methods can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing tends to offer the most defined shape. But it’s not for the novice. If you put wax in the wrong place, you could end up pulling off more hair than you want, and it may take its time growing back. So if you want a crisp look, see a professional. You may be able to

maintain them at home once the aesthetician has shaped your brows, but if in doubt, don’t.

Note: Waxing is not recommended for women who have sensitive skin, who are sunburned, or who use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

Tweezing is easy and inexpensive to do once you have a good pair of tweezers, but it’s easy to over-pluck if you’re not careful. Use tweezers if you prefer, or use them to pull stray hairs in-between waxing or threading appointments.

A popular method of hair removal in both Europe and Asia, threading is where you roll a piece of cotton thread across the unwanted hair. The hair wraps around the thread and is pulled from the root. It offers a flawless finish, but is best left to a trained professional. It can be expensive and painful.

The Worst Ways to Remove Eyebrow Hair

So if waxing, tweezing, and threading are among the most popular methods of removing hair, which rank among the least?

Depilatories -- The FDA warns against using chemical hair dissolvers near the eyes since an accidental drop into the eye can lead to blindness. Such chemicals also tend to be particularly harsh on the sensitive skin around the eye.

Shaving – While some women swear by shaving their brows and there are even miniature razors available for use around the eyes, it’s really easy to take off too much with a careless swipe. The hair also grows back faster and tougher than it does with other methods of removal. Proceed with caution. Eyebrow Razors Eyebrowz.com © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 79

Should You Dye Your Brows?

Dyeing your eyebrows is one way to make a big impact in a small amount of time. If you have very dark brows, going a shade or two lighter will make your eyes appear larger. If you have very light brows, going a shade or two darker will add more definition to the

area. If you color your hair, coloring the brows the same or similar color may make your hair color seem Make light brows darker more natural. for more definition

A word of caution: because of the close proximity to the eye, you need to handle coloring chemicals with care. You don’t want them to end up in your eyes. Have them professionally done or get someone to help you if doing it at home.

Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face so if you’ve never given your brows much thought, I encourage you to investigate further. Since grooming your brows is a simple, inexpensive way to look better—or worse, if you do too much or too little—it makes sense to review this part of your beauty regime from time to time.

Sites for further study:

 Anastasia http://www.anastasia.net

 Eyebrowz http://www.eyebrowz.com

 Tweezerman http://www.tweezerman.com

5 YOUR PEARLY WHITES

“You don’t have to brush your teeth – just the ones you want to keep.” --Author Unknown

Few people are born with perfect smiles. Those million- dollar mouths you see plastered all over magazines and television are often the result of many trips to the dentist or orthodontist, and can be yours for a few thousand dollars and some time in dental chair.

Is it worth it? Many times, it is. If you’re self-conscious about your teeth, it’s probably affecting the way you communicate. Whether you rarely smile or always smile behind your hand, you’re telling the world one of two things: you’re either a sour puss or you have something to hide.

Don’t let this happen to you, especially since there are so many affordable alternatives these days. If you want a long lasting way to improve your image and boost your self-esteem, invest in your smile.

Regular Dental Care

Let’s begin with the easiest and most obvious way to get a great smile: regular dental care. Brush and floss your teeth at least twice a day, visit your dentist every six months. You’ve probably been doing it all your life...but do you know exactly why?

Here’s what it boils down to:

Your mouth is a breeding ground for bacteria. Dark, warm, and moist, it’s a haven for microscopic organisms. That’s why regular care is so important, to keep that bacteria at bay. Left on its own, it can lead to tooth decay and gum infections. The most persistent pest is plaque, which is that sticky, colorless bacteria that forms on the teeth and creates the toxins that can lead to periodontal disease if neglected.

Regular brushing removes the plaque, just as regular flossing will dislodge any food particles left behind by brushing. Routine visits to the dentist, which usually include a cleaning and a checkup, will remove any residual plaque buildup and ensure a clean bill of dental health.

Now while this is an easy way to stay on top of the basics, let me say right now that a lot of people never make it this far. Fear of the dentist ranks right up there with fear of public speaking, so many people take the easy way out and just don’t go. I once worked with a woman who bragged that she hadn’t been to a dentist in forty years. Another man in that same office claimed that he’d sworn off dentists in the early 1970’s. You know what? The woman very rarely smiled and the man had the worst case of Halitosis I’ve ever encountered. Both of which could have been avoided with a little routine maintenance.

Here are some other general tips to consider in your everyday mouth care:

 Change your toothbrush regularly. Every three months is ideal, so get a new brush as each new season rolls around.

 If you’re getting over a cold, sore throat, or some other short-term illness, immerse your toothbrush in boiling water for a few minutes to kill any lingering germs.

 Don’t forget the fluoride. Many cities add fluoride to the tap water these days and you can always buy toothpaste with fluoride. But if you live in the country and you’re on well water, you’re going to need a fluoride supplement (infants and small children in particular need this additive). Ask your Internist for a prescription.

 Always wear protective mouth gear when participating in contact sports. If you play football, box, engage in martial arts, or regularly take part in similar contact sports, don’t forget your mouth guard.

 Don’t neglect your teeth when dieting. Fad diets, crash dieting, and fasting all take their toll on teeth and gums because calcium and vitamin requirements are often neglected. Diet pills are also hard on the mouth as they create dry mouth, which can ultimately lead to tooth decay.

Precautions: Take Vitamin (B-2, B-12, D) and Calcium supplements when dieting and increase your water intake to ensure adequate saliva production.

 In the event of dental trauma, remain calm, cool and collected and call your dentist as soon as possible. If you’ve lost or chipped a permanent tooth during the mishap, take it with you to the dentist.

WARNING: These two are a little graphic:

 Always brush your teeth after you throw up. That bitter taste in your mouth is acid—chemicals your stomach uses to break down and digest food. It’s okay for the stomach, but bad for the mouth, and can lead to tooth decay and other oral problems in time. Eroding tooth enamel is one of the easiest ways to spot a Bulimic. In fact, 28% of all bulimia cases are first diagnosed during dental exams.

 Skip the piercing. While tongue piercing is “all the rage” now, particularly among the teen crowd, it’s not a good idea. In fact, it’s a terrible one. Remember all that bacteria we talked about a moment ago? Combine all those organisms with an open sore and you have the number one problem associated with oral piercing: infection. Some people’s tongues have swollen so large, they’ve closed the airway! Piercing can also cause uncontrollable bleeding and nerve damage, so “just say no” if this ever becomes a consideration in your life.

Now that you have the day-to-day stuff down pat, let’s look at some other ways to brighten your smile.

Teeth Whitening

Another simple way to improve your smile (and take years off your appearance) is to whiten your teeth.

Everyone’s teeth yellow with age, according to the American Dental Association, so lightening them a little can take years off your smile. Other culprits that contribute to staining include:

 Coffee  Tea  Tobacco products  Tetracycline  Excessive Fluoride  Trauma

While almost everyone’s teeth can be lightening by whitening products, there are some cases where it won’t work (like on teeth that have turned gray due to trauma or medical conditions). Consult with your dentist before trying any whitening product to determine what’s best for you.

There are a couple of things you need to consider before whitening:

Age

The older you get, the duller and more discolored your teeth become. Trying to recreate the white shade of teeth from your youth is a dead giveaway that your teeth have been artificially lightened. So don’t go for blinding white – just go a few shades lighter than your current color. It will work wonders for your smile.

Skin Tone

As with makeup, hair coloring, and clothing, your skin tone will have an impact on your best tooth color. If you have yellow undertones, keep some ivory or yellow in your teeth. If you have pink undertones, your teeth will look best with a hint of blue or gray in them. An experienced dentist with whitening experience should be able to match the tones appropriately.

So which whitening method is best? It depends on what you’re trying to do:

Whitening Toothpastes

In general, whitening toothpastes like Rembrandt® are safe if you don’t over-brush with them. The results will be limited because they really only work on surface stains. Most don’t have bleach or don’t remain on the teeth long enough to make a significant change. However, many do contain abrasive substances that can wear tooth enamel over time, so don’t use them for prolonged periods of time. © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 84

Strips

Whitening strips work well for people with mild discoloration who want a quick boost. The strips are pressed onto your teeth like tape on a package and are typically worn for 30 or 60 minutes at a time, five to seven days in a row. You should have noticeably whiter teeth at the end of the treatment period. While these strips contain a low level of peroxide, discontinue use if the strips irritate your gums or make your teeth tingle.

Trays

Whitening trays are shaped like a mouth guard and come with several tubes of peroxide-based gel that you squeeze into the tray and insert into your mouth for 30 or 60 minutes at a time. They’re the best over-the-counter solution for more darkly discolored teeth that require more lightening than toothpaste or strips can handle.

These over-the-counter trays resemble what you might get in a take-home bleaching package from your dentist, except they don’t have a custom mouth tray. A poorly fitting tray may allow you to ingest bleaching agent or it might allow the bleach to seep onto and irritate gum tissue. Still, if you like the price tag, here are some tips to follow:

1. Try to find a kit that allows you to customize your mouth tray to some extent. While these aren’t as good as what you might get from your dentist, they are better than the standard, “one-size-fits-all” approach.

2. Try to get a recommendation from someone who has used the product to see what their results might have been.

3. If you experience pain, changes in gum tissue color, or increased sensitivity to hot or cold foods, discontinue use and contact your dentist immediately.

Dentist Supervised Take-Home Bleaching Systems

This is becoming an increasing popular method for teeth whitening and is much simpler than systems available even just a few years ago. The dentist takes a mold of your teeth and creates a custom tray for you. You’re given several tubes of bleaching agent that you squirt into the tray. You wear the tray for a half hour every day or at night for about two weeks, and you’ll have noticeably whiter teeth at the end of the period. You can repeat the procedure as needed every six to twelve months.

While this pretty much resembles what you do with the over-the-counter products, there’s a huge difference in effectiveness and price. Over-the-counter products contain 6% peroxide and run less than $50 while professional treatments contain up to 35% peroxide and can run up to $600. You’re paying for the dentist to analyze your particular situation, give you the appropriate bleaching agent, and customize a tray for you. Depending on your situation, it may be well worth it.

Dentist Office “Power” Bleaching

One of the quickest and most effective ways to whiten your teeth is called “Power Bleaching,” which requires deep pockets and session in the dentist’s chair.

The dentist isolates and protects your lips, gums, and the inside lining of your mouth. A powerful bleaching agent is then applied to your teeth. A powerful light source is applied that activates the bleaching agent.

This is an extremely quick and effective way to whiten your teeth under a dentist’s supervision. But it is a bit pricey, typically $600 to $1200 to whiten both upper and lower teeth.

Get a Hollywood Smile

Not quite satisfied with just whitening your teeth? There are alternatives. Let’s move into the Hollywood Tricks/Deep Pockets arena with these techniques:

Bonding

Bonding is a process in which enamel colored composite resin (plastic compound that looks like ceramic) is used to fill in broken, chipped, cracked, or unevenly spaced teeth. The resin is usually mixed in several shades to closely match your natural tooth color.

The resin material isn’t as strong as your natural teeth, and can be chipped by chewing ice, popcorn kernels, hard candy, and the like. It’s also prone to staining from coffee, tea, red wine, and other staining foods.

Usually completed in one visit (depending on how many teeth are being done), and typically done without anesthesia, bonding costs about $150 per tooth.

Porcelain Veneers

Veneers are thin, porcelain shells bonded to the surface of the teeth to mask stains, close spaces, and repair broken or chipped teeth. A thin layer of enamel is removed from your tooth, an impression is taken, and a veneer is fabricated to fit on the front of the tooth (like putting paneling on a wall). Need your tooth wider? Longer? Fuller? Then veneers might be a solution for you. .

Veneers offer a brilliantly white smile and resist discoloration much better than the resin in bonding. But the technology doesn’t come cheap. If you opt for veneers, you can expect to pay $250 (or more!) per tooth.

Caps

If your teeth are in BAD shape—broken down, badly chipped, deteriorating, etc.—the best alternative may be a cap. In this process, the tooth is ground down and replaced with a porcelain or metal-fabricated crown. Here’s a drawing of what’s entailed, from the Smile Doctor, smile-dr.com.

While crowning can achieve amazing results, it does come at a price. Expect several painful visits, and bring your checkbook. It’s going to run you around $1500 to $1800 per tooth.

So now that we’ve exhausted how to whiten and brighten your teeth, let’s look at some other ways to spruce up your smile.

Orthodontic Treatments

One of the most popular ways to bring about a healthy smile is through orthodontia. While most people assume that braces are only used to straighten teeth, they can actually be used for a variety of dental challenges.

Crowded teeth, overbites and under-bites, incorrect jaw position and disorders of the jaw joints can all benefit from orthodontic treatment. According to the American Association of Orthodontists, nearly 70% of the U.S. population is in need of some sort of orthodontic treatment.

When teeth are crooked or incorrectly placed in the mouth, they will wear unevenly. This can lead to gum problems and ultimately, to tooth loss. Positioning them correctly can alleviate a lot of these problems. This is done with braces.

Braces are usually put on children between the ages of 10 and 14. The child has typically lost all of his baby teeth by then, and since the head and mouth are still growing, teeth are more accessible to straightening.

But don’t assume that kids are the only ones who should wear braces. Far from it. Many adults can benefit as well. In fact, nearly 25% of all new Orthodontic patients are adults. Many of them report that either their parents didn’t have the money to straighten their teeth when they were kids, or their problems defied the orthodontic technology at the time.

Perhaps the biggest difference between adult and teenage patients is the length of treatment. Since kids are still growing, they rebound quickly from the routine tightening and can have a reshaped mouth within 24 months, depending on the extent of their problem. Adult patients have to move a little slower. Instead of having their braces tightened every 2-4 weeks like teenagers, they need to wait for 3-6 weeks. This draws out the length of treatment. They may expect to see results in 30 months that their teenager can get in 24, for example.

But you needn’t despair over looking like a “metal mouth” while your teeth are shifting around. Today’s new materials allow you many more options than were available even 15 or 20 years ago. These include:

 Metal or plastic brackets. These bond to teeth and are far less noticeable than their banded predecessors. They can be metal, clear, blue, gold,

purple—you name it! Just ask your orthodontist for Stylish Braces (tm) or Outrageous Braces (tm) if you want to be a real trendsetter.

 Lingual braces. These are brackets that attach to the back of the teeth and are hidden from view.

 Bands. These are the old fashioned variety which cover most of your teeth with metal bands and wrap around the teeth.

Not sure of how you’ll look in braces? Why not get a free computer-generated photo of yourself from the American Association of Orthodontists? All you need to do is send a close up, front-view picture of yourself smiling. Include your name, address, and telephone number and send it to:

Smiles American Association of Orthodontists 401 North Lindbergh Blvd. St. Louis, MO 63141-7816

Invisalign

So what if you don’t want to wear braces? What are your options?

If your teeth don’t need to be moved a lot, you might consider the Invisalign System. You may have seen these advertised on TV or in a magazine. Basically, it’s a system of customized aligners that produces a series of nearly- clear orthodontic appliances that are worn by the patient to move the teeth into their goal position.

Each aligner moves teeth in small increments and is worn for about two weeks before it’s replaced by the next aligner in the series. They can be removed for brushing and flossing, which makes maintenance a snap. Unlike conventional braces, there are no wires, braces, or metal to create abrasions to the teeth or skin in the mouth.

The pluses: Discreet, easy to maintain, cutting edge technology.

The minuses: Works best on mild cases, costs up to 50% more than traditional braces.

If you’re not dissuaded, click on the Invisalign site to find an Invisalign-certified doctor near you,

So...are you ready to whip your smile into shape? Then get busy and call your dentist. Once you get that movie-star smile, you’ll be amazed how your confidence will soar.

6 BODY

“Thirty-five is when you finally get your head together and your body starts falling apart.” -- Caryn Leschen

Thus far, we’ve talked extensively about how to look great from the neck up. But is that where your beauty regime should end? Of course not! You have a whole lot more skin to maintain, and keeping is toned, moisturized, and hair-free will allow you to look good, feel good, and turn heads for decades. All it takes is a little information to get on the right path.

CLEANSE The best place to start is with your daily care. Whether you bathe or shower every day or every few days, the products that you use on your skin can have a lasting impact on how it looks. You want to cleanse your skin without stripping it of essential oils, wash away the bacteria without clogging pores.

The problem is, many of the popular bath soaps, shower gels, and bubble baths on the market tend to do just that: strip your skin of oils and leave them squeaky clean. You don’t want that. It will dry out your skin unnecessarily, aging it before its time.

Products to avoid include:

 Deodorant Soaps – these contain bacteria-killing chemicals that can dry out skin. Regular soaps should kill the bacteria just as well.

 Antibacterial Soaps – these are great for cleaning your hands if you work in a bacteria haven like a doctor’s office, school, or day care – or if you’re prone to acne on your back. But they tend to over-dry.

 Shower Gels and Bubble Baths – if the label says sodium laurel sulfate, don’t use it because it will dry out your skin.

So what other options do you have? Plenty! You just have to remember that the best products to use will depend on your skin type. Here are some skin-friendly alternatives:

What What it Does Who it’s For

Hand-Milled Also called French-milled Anyone, Soap soap (or a variation, triple- particularly those milled soap), these are with normal to dry vegetable-based soaps that skin. have been combined with essential oils and/or Crabtree- fragrance. They are gentle, Evelyn.com lather well, and are great for everyday use.

Glycerin Soap These transparent soaps are People with dry or made of oil and glycerin sensitive skin. Also and are extremely gentle on works great on the skin. They produce a babies. light lather and clean well without stripping essential Fruits- Passion.com oils from the skin.

Moisturizing Loaded with rich Those with dry, Soap emollients like olive oil, sensitive, or itchy goat’s milk, cocoa butter, skin. these creamy soaps slather you in moisture, making

your skin soft to the touch. Crabtree- Evelyn.com

Exfoliating Rough and gritty with Use occasionally to Soap ingredients like jojoba slough off dry skin; or oatmeal, these soaps use regularly on exfoliate as they wash. oily skin. Great for loosening Southern Soap blackheads and ingrown Store.com hairs on oily skin. © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 92

Body Wash If you dislike the mess that Those with dry, comes with bar soaps, try normal, or sensitive creamy or cleansing body skin. washes instead. Some add moisture, some simply clean, but most of them

leave skin soft and supple. Crabtree- Evelyn.com

Finding the best solution for you may require some experimentation, but one thing’s for certain: once you see what a difference the proper product can make to the texture and feel of your skin, you’ll never go back to your old bathing routine.

PREPARE Cleansing skin is just the first step in creating that healthy glow. You’ll need to give it a little extra TLC every now and again to keep it looking good and feeling great. Exfoliate to slough off dead skin, moisturize to keep skin supple, and adjust your routine and products as needed to combat the heat of summer and the cold of winter. Here are some simple ways to do that:

Exfoliate

Regular exfoliating invigorates the skin and helps slough off dead skin cells. To keep skin soft and supple, exfoliate once a week with either a loofah-like product or an exfoliating scrub. Always exfoliate before you use self tanner to ensure a smooth application; do not exfoliate on sunburned skin or

skin that you’ve recently shaved or waxed. It will further Crabtree- irritate it. Evelyn.com

Moisturize

You should moisturize your skin year ‘round regardless of your skin type. Those with dry skin need rich creamy formulations; those with oily skin will benefit from water-based lotions. Apply moisturizer right after bathing when your skin is still damp and adjust the creaminess of the product with the seasons as necessary.

While most basic moisturizers will keep your skin hydrated, there are products on the market that can help specific trouble zones:

 Alpha-hydroxy acids and retinol boost the skin’s natural exfoliation process and leave the skin silky and smooth.

 Lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, and urea help draw moisture to the skin’s surface and are particularly effective on rough areas like elbows, knees, and heels.

Crabtree-Evelyn.com  Antioxidants with vitamins A, C, and E minimize damage caused by the sun.

So read those labels carefully and opt for products that help you get the smoothest skin possible.

Prevent Odor

Once you have silky-smooth, touchable skin, make sure you don’t send people running in the opposite direction because of the body odor coming from your arm pits.

The body cools itself by perspiring. That’s why you start to “glow” whenever you engage in robust activity. Sweat by itself is generally odorless. It’s when it combines with bacteria on your body surface that it develops an odor.

So how do you combat it? Use a deodorant with an antiperspirant. One combats odor, the other, perspiration. There are a number of formulations on the market, so try several until you find one that works for you. Always keep a spare in your desk at work, and carry a travel size in your purse or car. You never know when you’ll need to reapply...

Mitchum.com TheCrystal.com CertainDri.com

Another trick? If all else fails, dust your armpits with baby powder. This absorbs extra moisture and leaves a pleasant scent.

If you perspire profusely and nothing on the market seems to work, consult a dermatologist. Excess sweating on the underarms, hands, groin, and feet is called Hyperhidrosisis, and requires a doctor’s care to control. Consult with a dermatologist to determine the best solution for you.

Did you know?

Your body’s chemical composition can change over time, like when you’re pregnant, nursing, or going through menopause, and what might have worked for years suddenly stops doing its job. Try different products again until you find one that works with your new composition.

The Breast Cancer Rumor

There’s been a rumor making the email rounds for a while linking the use of antiperspirants to breast cancer. It’s not true. You can read the story and research behind this at BreastCancer.org .

PROTECT Once you’ve cleaned, smoothed, and moisturized your skin, you need to take care to protect it. How do you do that?

STAY OUT OF THE SUN.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you probably know by now that sunbathing is bad for your skin. While you may think your skin looks better in a darker shade, whatever your race, ethnicity, or skin tone, allowing the sun’s rays to bake your skin over time can lead to a number of bad things, from getting wrinkles at an early age to life-threatening diseases like skin cancer.

So why, in spite of all the warnings, do people continue to tan?

It’s a status thing, like wearing corsets used to be, which defies logic and persists in spite of medical evidence that it’s harmful.

Remember the line from Snow White, “Skin as white as snow?” For centuries, white or light skin was cherished as the sign of a lady. Tanned skin on women was a sign of the working class. Wealthy women stayed out of the sun or protected their skin with parasols, hats, and gloves. Working women didn’t have the means or the interest to do so.

That all changed in the 1920’s when Coco Chanel stepped off a yacht in the south of France sporting the tan she’d picked up while on board. By the 1930’s, a tan stood for health, wealth, and style.

Amazing what a little spin can do, eh?

Yes, I know it feels good to lie in the sun. I know a tan looks hot. But unless you take the necessary precautions, you’ll do irrevocable damage.

So, regardless of your skin color (yes, black skin can get sunburned), you need to protect your skin. Here are some tips for summer sun worship:

1. Always use a sunscreen. Apply 20 minutes before you go into the sun to allow your skin time to absorb it. Re-apply as needed throughout the day, particularly after a swim.

2. Wear broad-rimmed hats, light-colored coverups, and UV protective sunglasses when in the sun.

3. Whenever possible, stay out of the sun between 10am and 2pm to avoid exposure to the most intensive rays.

4. Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration and heat stroke.

5. Apply cool compresses to sunburned skin to help reduce the area temperature. Never exfoliate or use a mask on sunburned skin until the area has healed, and be sure to go light on your favorite perfume until the burn is gone.

Sunburn products on the market that will help you heal and peel less include:

 Coppertone Cool Beads www.coppertone.com

 American Vitamin Company Re-hydrator www.gloskincare.com/avc/beauty.asp

 Clinique After-Sun Rescue Balm www.clinique.com

REMEMBER: If you are severely sunburned, consult a physician as soon as possible for treatment of your first degree burn.

Facts about Sunscreen

So what exactly do all those letters and numbers on your bottle of sunscreen mean?

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. Most dermatologists recommend daily use of a sunscreen with an SPF of 15, as this will generally protect you while you’re walking to the car, taking a stroll through the neighborhood, or having an impromptu picnic on a bench in the park.

If you’re going to be out in the sun for an extended period of time to garden, play sports or socialize, look for a sunscreen with an SPF of 30. This will help combat extended exposure to the sun’s rays.

UV or Ultra Violet protection comes in two formulations to combat the two types of solar rays: UVA and UVB. UVA rays cause wrinkles; UVB rays lead to sunburn.

In the United States, this is a hotly contested area of product reporting. The FDA allows a manufacturer to claim that their sunscreen blocks UVA rays even if it blocks only a low percentage of them. To make sure you’re getting the protection that you need, look for one or more of the following ingredients on the label:

 Avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789)  Titanium Dioxide  Zinc Oxide

Next, consider your skin type. Dry skin may prefer an emollient cream while oilier skin types might opt for a formulation with no added humectants or moisturizers. There are lots of UV protective options available, including:

Dry-Normal

 Avon Age Block- SFP 15 http://www.avon.com

 Peter Thomas Roth Oil Free Sunblock- SPF 30 http://www.sephora.com

 Murad Daily Defense Hydrating Sunscreen, SPF 15 http://www.sephora.com

 Shade UVA guard- SFP 30 http://www.coppertone.com

Oily-Combo

 DDF Matte Finish Photo-Age Protection- SFP 30 http://www.sephora.com

 Origins Silent Treatment- SFP 15 http://www.origins.com

 Christian Dior Ultra-UV Coat For The Face - SFP 30 http://www.sephora.com

 Revlon New Complexion Even Out Make-up- SFP 20 http://www.revlon.com/cosmetics/newcomplexion

Finally, replace your sunscreen every year. It doesn’t have a long shelf life, so if you’re using last year’s bottle, chances are, you don’t have the protection you need.

Getting That Sun Kissed Look

So how can you get the look of a tan without risking the danger of sitting in the sun? Use a bronzer or self-tanner.

Tanning gels, or “fake tans” have been around for a couple of decades. They were originally designed as a shortcut for people who didn’t have the time or inclination to sit in the sun, but frankly, they weren’t very good. They streaked, had an orange tint, and often came off on everything they came into contact with, including clothes, car seats, and furniture. What’s more, most of the women who used them did so only on their legs, which made the skin on the lower half of their body not match the skin on the upper half -- a dead giveaway that something was amiss.

Today’s tanning and bronzing gels are about as far away from those dinosaurs as cooking by fire is from using the microwave. Today’s products go on smooth, dry quickly, have staying power, and come in a variety of shades to meet the needs of many different skin tones. If you’re thinking about a tan but don’t want to lie in the sun, maybe you should consider a sunless tanner or tanning bronzer.

Here are some tips for using them correctly:

To begin with, choose a bronzer that’s close to your skin tone. If you’re fair, pick light to medium; if you’re dark, select medium to deep. Going from stark white to dark brown won’t fool anyone. Drugstore.com

 Start with clean, smooth skin. Exfoliate, shave or wax. The smoother the surface, the smoother the application will be.

 Remove all jewelry and pull your hair off your face if applying the product to your face.

 Put a dollop of tanner in your hand, and mix with an equal amount of moisturizer. Don’t use a moisturizer with exfoliating properties like retinol or alpha hydroxy. These speed the turnover of surface cells, which will make the color fade faster.

Perspiration will cause the color to run and make your skin look blotchy. Use in a well ventilated room, not your shower-steamed bathroom.

 Apply a thin layer using a circular motion. If you’re using the bronzer on your face, be sure to get the “tricky” parts like ears, jawline, and neck. Use a cotton swab to help with application, if necessary.

If you’re using an “instant” bronzer, you’ll need to wait about five minutes for the product to set. If it’s not instant, you’ll need to wait at least an hour. Keep your hands off your skin and sit someplace that won’t leave tell-tale signs on your skin. You can apply additional layers once the first layer has dried. Made a blotchy mess of it? Whoops! You’ll have to wait for it to wear off. You can speed up the process by exfoliating every day or by using a glycolic moisturizer.

Here are some of the most popular bronzing/self-tanning products:

 Au Courant Instant Sunless Tanning Mousse http://www.aucourant.com

 Ban de Soleil® Radiance Eternelle™ Self Tanning Creme http://www.baindesoleil.com

 Clinique Body Self Tanning Lotion http://www.clinique.com

 Coppertone’s Endless Summer http://www.coppertone.com

 Estée Lauder Quick-Dry Sunless Spray http://www.esteelauder.com

 Lancôme Flash Bronzer http://www.lancome.com

 Neutrogena Instant Bronzer for The Face http://www.neutrogena.com

Aren’t sure which product would be best for your skin type, skin tone, and level of experience with self-tanners? The “Product Picker” at www.Sunless.com should get you pointed in the right direction.

Too afraid to try one of these self-tanners yourself, but want the results they offer? You’re in luck! Like manicures, pedicures, and eyebrow waxing, this is now a service offered by many salons, starting at around $50. If you want a no- streak, professional look, this could be the easiest way to go. Ask your favorite salon if they do this, or ask them to recommend a good one that does.

Too timid to go the “fake town” route? Try powders that wash right off, like:

 Guerlain Terracotta Moisturizing Bronzing Powder http://www.sephora.com

 Stila Stila Sun Bronzing Powder SPF http://www.sephora.com

 Sugar Cosmetics Tropic Tan http://www.sephora.com

Or how about a tinted moisturizer, like:

 Bobbi Brown SPF Tinted Moisturizer http://www.bobbibrown.com

 Neutrogena Healthy Skin Enhancer Tinted Moisturizer http://www.neutrogena.com

 Stila Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer http://www.sephora.com

Finally, remember that sunless tanners, bronzers, and powders are NOT sunscreen lotion. While some have SPF (sun protection factor) ingredients in them, don’t be lulled into thinking you don’t need additional protection. You do. Slather on sunscreen whenever you go in the sun.

While there’s no such thing as “a healthy tan,” you can get that sun-kissed look WITHOUT the associated risks by using a self tanner. All it takes is a little time, money, and patience to look like you spent an afternoon in the sun – perhaps enjoying the South of France, like Coco Chanel used to do.

Common Skin Care Problems

When you have great skin, your clothing options seem endless: sleeveless tops, backless dresses, daring décolletages, and even thigh-high skirts. But when you have bumps and dimples and other things best kept under cover, that’s what you tend to do: cover up.

NeimanMarcus.com You have plenty of company. Nearly 50% of the population has skin problems of some sort, from bumps on the back of the arm to razor burn to large-looking pores on the legs.

But what’s a gal to do?

Well, don’t wrap yourself in oversize clothes to hide your imperfections and sweat like you’re in a sauna! There’s no need! Instead, here are a few tips and tricks to get you on your way:

Keratosis Pilaris

“Chicken skin,” those pesky little bumps on the backs of your arms – is a harmless yet annoying hereditary condition. It may appear at an early age and become less pronounced in time. It can’t be cured but it can be treated by using mild cleansers, light exfoliation, and moisturizes with an alpha hydroxy acid. For severe conditions,

consult a dermatologist for a prescription. HelpForKP.com

“Bacne” (Back Acne)

As we saw before, acne occurs when pores get plugged with sebum or dirt. While people often get acne on the face, it can occur anywhere on the body including the chest and back. Back acne is usually the result of perspiration and oil getting trapped by tight-fitting, non-breathable fabrics, and it’s very common among athletes. To combat it, opt for loose-fitting clothes in breathable fabrics like cotton, and wash the back with an antibacterial soap. Treat affect areas with benzoyl peroxide and use only noncomedogenic sunscreen when out in the sun. Also be sure to change bed linens at least once a week.

Rough Elbows, Knees, and Heels

Elbows, knees, and heels can get rough and scaly over time and prevent many people from showing them in public. To combat, get areas moist in the bath or shower and scrub lightly with a pumice stone, loohfah, or exfoliating product. Follow with a deep-moisturizing cream or salve to help re- hydrate the area.

Razor Burn

Razor burn, which results in tender skin and red, blotchy bumps, is often the result of poor skin preparation, a dull razor blade, or pressing too hard when shaving. The skin can become irritated or trap ingrown hairs. To prevent this, change your blade often, usually after every 3 uses, and allow hair to get wet and soften before shaving. Also wait to apply moisturizer to the area you shaved to allow pores to close. Treat the burn with aloe vera gel.

Large Pores

Large-looking pores on your legs are often the result of frequent shaving. Shaving stimulates hair growth, which results in seemingly instant stubble that can make the pores on your legs or underarms look large. To combat it, shave less often. Yes, you will get stubble, and yes, it will take time to retrain your hair follicle growth patterns. But you’ll notice a difference in just a matter of months as pores appear smaller and less noticeable.

Cellulite

Cellulite, that bumpy, puckered, and dimpled collection of fat that resides in many women’s buttocks, is the bane of plenty of lives. It occurs when fat pushes through the collagen fibers that hold the fat under the skin, creating bumps and dimples.

To reduce the appearance of cellulite you need to increase your diet and exercise routine by:

 Eating a well-balanced diet that includes all the food groups.

 Reducing the foods that heighten fluid retention, like salt and diet drinks.

 Toning the muscles in the hips, thighs, and buttocks with area-specific exercises like walking, swimming, and cycling.

 Vigorously massaging the cellulite areas for 10 minutes each day to breakdown the fat globules and redistribute the mesh.

You might also try one of the anti-cellulite products that have come on the market in recent years. Anti-cellulite creams contain a caffeine derivative that helps shrink the puckers and dimples associated with cellulite. You’ll see a difference if you use their products in conjunction with diet and exercise.

Two of the most popular firming lotions on the market include:

 Neutrogena® Anti-Cellulite Treatment http://www.neutrogena.com

 RoC Actif Pur Anti-Cellulite Treatment http://www.roc.com

But remember: these produces should be used with a regimented diet and exercise program – not instead of.

Stretch Marks

Known in the medical community as striae, stretch marks appear when the skin’s collagen and elastin cannot keep up with its need for growth. They typically appear after pregnancy, rapid weight gain, or a growth spurt, and can appear in both men and women.

Stretch marks initially appear as red or purple lines of varying length or widths on the breasts, lower abdomen, buttocks, and thighs. Sometimes they are wrinkled and shiny. In time, they fade to a shade lighter than the surrounding skin.

The most effective treatment to date is a topical solution called Tretinoin. A form of Retin-A, Tretinoin—when applied in high doses—can cause the collagen to realign, thus leading to a less pronounced appearance. Studies indicate that stretch marks made recently respond better to Tretinoin than older marks.

Other treatments include laser procedures to resurface the skin, and collagen injections to smooth the skin layers. Many of them are costly and not often covered by medical insurance. Consult your dermatologist for details.

Finally, if you just can’t stand the sight of stretch marks and don’t have a lot of time or money for medical treatments, you can always camouflage the damage with cosmetics. Find them at:

 Sacha Cosmetics http://www.sachacosmetics.com/camouflage.htm

Age Spots (Liver Spots)

Age spots, also know as liver spots, are those dark little spots that can pepper your face, hands, and chest occur when the skin is repeatedly bombarded by ultraviolet rays. You know, sun damage. If left untreated over time, age spots can become very noticeable around the age of fifty. http://www.nlm.nih.gov

If the spot isn’t too dark, you may be able to lighten it with an over-the-counter bleaching product, like Porcelana®. These commercial solutions contain a 2% solution of hydroquinone and can work effectively. Follow the product’s directions carefully, and discontinue use if skin becomes irritated. Darker spots require a 3% solution, which is only available by prescription.

You can also minimize the effect by regularly using an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) lotion. AHA’s loosen old, dead cells on the skin’s surface and can get rid of age spots by exfoliating superficial pigmentation.

Keep in mind that since this damage occurred over time, it’s going to take a little time to fix. Don’t expect miracles overnight. Some people have reported improved results in as little as 60 days while others have had to wait a year. So

keep at it—and be diligent in your sun protection routine to prevent any further damage.

So what’s the bottom line on these common skin problems?

A healthy lifestyle that includes a well-balanced diet, regular exercise, plenty of rest, and limited sun exposure will prevent many of the ailments described above.

Seek professional help when necessary. While there are plenty of good over-the- counter treatments available, they won’t clear every problem to your satisfaction. Know when to “say when” and call in a dermatologist when necessary.

Just as pocked, scarred skin can have a negative impact on your self-esteem, so can beautiful skin lift your self-image to amazing heights. Life is too short to go around being ashamed of your bad skin. Take “the bull by the horns,” as they say, and tame your skin problems today!

7 HAIR REMOVAL

“Getting ideas is like shaving: if you don’t do it every day, you’re a bum.” --Alex Kroll

People have been removing unwanted hair for thousands of years. Ever wonder who came up with the bright idea of shaving legs? It was the Ancient Egyptians. They removed all hair from head to toe in order to keep cool; and they did so using a pumice stone. Ouch! Like clothing, the fashions for hair removal have come and gone over the centuries.

Let’s begin by looking at the different ways to remove hair. Some of these options have been around since the beginning; others have cropped up within the last few decades. All of them are effective in differing degrees.

Types of Hair Removal

Plucking involves using a set of tweezers to pull out one hair at a time. The oldest method of hair removal, plucking works best when used on small areas like eyebrows. You can also pluck stray hairs left behind by shaving, waxing, etc.

Threading is an ancient technique that involves using a 100% cotton thread to wrap or lasso hair and pull it out. Common in the Mid and Far East, threading is usually limited to facial hair only and can take anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes at the hands of a skilled cosmetician.

Shaving is the quickest form of hair removal and involves using a razor pulled across the skin’s surface to cut off unwanted hair. This is the most popular method for removing hair but it’s also the most temporary, usually lasting only a few days.

Sugaring was Cleopatra’s hair removal method of choice and involves blending water, sugar, and citrus juice (lemon, lime, or orange) into a warm paste. The paste is applied to hair and pulled off quickly using strips of linen or muslin. Hair must be at least ¼“ long to work effectively. © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 107

Waxing is similar to sugaring in that warm wax is applied to the skin and pulled off quickly using wax or linen strips. Waxing is the most popular method of hair removal in salons, as the results can last up to six weeks. Hair must be at least ½“ long to work effectively.

Depilatory Creams are combinations of chemicals applied directly to the skin’s surface to dissolve visible hair. They’re left on for a certain amount of time, then rinsed with water. These creams are known for their unpleasant odor, and can cause severe allergic reactions on some people. Always test a small area before using on larger areas of your body.

Electrolysis involves placing a disposable sterile needle into each individual hair follicle and transmitting a low-level electrical current to the hair root. This slows down the hair growth, resulting in finer, thinner hair. First used over 100 years ago, electrolysis is both time-consuming and costly, but offers excellent long- term results.

Laser hair removal uses laser technology to emit a gentle beam of light that passes through the skin to the hair follicle where it is absorbed by the hair. The laser energy is then transformed into heat, which disables the hair follicle. Laserit.ca

Because laser light is attracted to dark colors, people who have white skin and dark hair will see the best results. Lasers don’t work on white, blonde, gray, or red hair, so this is not an option if you have lighter colored hair. Similarly, people with dark hair and skin will see poor results, as the skin pigment will absorb some of the light energy that’s intended for the hair.

So which hair removal treatment is right for you? It all depends on your situation.

Most women use a combination of techniques on different parts of their body. If you have sensitive skin, a low threshold for pain, or certain medical conditions like diabetes, you may be limited to plucking and shaving. If you hate to shave and can stand the pain, sugaring or waxing might be suitable alternatives. Want the lowest maintenance available? Try electrolysis or laser hair removal.

Hair to Remove

So now that you’ve had a run down of the different techniques, what hair should you remove? It depends on your culture and geographic location. Here are some general rules of thumb, going from head to toe:

Eyebrows

We talked about this in the chapter on eyebrows: tweeze or wax eyebrows to remove unruly hairs or any hair between brows. Follow your natural brow shape instead of the latest trends—brows tend to re-grow slowly or sometimes not at all. You don’t want to be stuck with an over-tweezed look.

When having your brows waxed at a salon, consider these tips:

1. Avoid using Alpha Hydroxy skin care products for at least a week before having brows done. These peel skin, as does waxing. Give your skin a break between the treatments.

2. Make sure the technician you go to knows what she’s doing. This is not always a given. Ask about her training and experience if you’re using her for the first time.

3. Don’t allow the technician to apply heavy creams to the skin right after waxing, particularly if you’re prone to breakouts. To calm pain and irritation, use a baby teething pain remedy like Oragel™.

4. Skip waxing if you have sensitive skin.

For best results when tweezing:

1. Start with a sharp, clean pair of tweezers. Professionals prefer Tweezerman . They cost more than the typical pair of tweezers, but they offer lifetime sharpening and will last you for years.

2. Tweeze right after your shower, when the skin is soft and malleable. If that’s not possible, place a warm washcloth over the brows for 5-10 minutes before plucking to soften the area.

3. Use natural light whenever possible.

4. Pull skin taut and remove unwanted hairs as close to the root as you can AND in the direction of growth.

5. Close pores with an astringent as soon as you’ve finished plucking.

Did You Know?

In the Middle Ages, when it was fashionable to wear large and outrageous headdresses, women removed all hair from eyelashes, eyebrows, and temples by plucking and shaving every day. Beginning around 476 A.D., this practice was still in vogue during the reign of Elizabeth I.

Upper Lip, Cheeks, and Chin

Remove hair from your face by waxing, tweezing, threading, or using depilatories. DO NOT shave, as you’ll get re-growth with stubble. Another alternative is to use bleach to lighten and disguise hair.

Back of Neck

If you wear your hair short, ask your hairdresser to trim the hair on the back of your neck. She’ll probably do this without asking, but if she forgets, be sure to mention it.

Underarms

Hairless underarms have been popular in the United States since 1915, when the May issue of Harper’s Bazaar that year featured a woman in a sleeveless dress with no underarm hair. A marketing campaign by a leading razor blade company quickly convinced women that underarm hair was both unhygienic and unfeminine, and within two years, shaving underarms became the accepted norm in the United States. It’s been handed down from mother to daughter ever since, and is slowly gaining acceptance in other parts of the world.

Shave, wax, use depilatories, or get electrolysis or laser treatments to remove underarm hair.

Use anti-perspirants with caution after hair removal, particularly waxing. The chemicals in the deodorant can burn, sting, and irritate freshly waxed skin, so allow for some time between the treatment and the deodorant application.

Arms

Have unwanted hair on your forearms? Bleach, wax, sugar, use depilatories, or get electrolysis or laser treatments to get rid of that long hair on your arms. Don’t shave—you’ll get stubble and coarser hair.

Breasts, Stomach, and Back

If you have unwanted hair on your breasts, stomach, or back, bleach, wax, sugar, use depilatories, or get electrolysis or laser treatments to remove what you want gone. DO NOT shave these areas—you don’t want the stubble.

Bikini

Removing hair from the bikini area can be tricky and very uncomfortable, particularly if you don’t do it that often. Start with a pair of scissors and trim as much as possible.

If waxing:

 Apply thin strips of wax in the direction of hair growth to the areas that grow at and outside of the edge of the bikini leg.

 Place strips of linen firmly over the wax. With a quick, deliberate motion, pull linen back off in the opposite direction in which you applied the wax. It will sting.

 Apply a cool compress to help close pores, and use an anti-inflammatory to help combat any lingering pain. Many at-home waxing treatments include one of these remedies with the kit; you can also use a baby teething solution like Oragel™.

If shaving:

 Apply shaving gel to the area and allow it to sit for several minutes.

 Shave in the same direction as hair growth. Rinse.

 Repeat until the area is smooth.

 If necessary, go back several hours later with an electric razor to pick up any stray hairs that you missed.

You may experience itching, redness, and red bumps after removing hair here. It’s normal and should go away in a day or two. If you’re tidying this area in preparation for a scanty outfit like a bikini, leotard, or short shorts, make a point of removing hair a few days beforehand to allow for irritation to subside. If you’re not limber enough to inspect the area closely for stray hairs, try using a magnifying mirror to help in your examination.

Legs

Many women routinely remove hair from the ankles to knees year ‘round, and the whole leg during the summer months when shorts and beachwear rule the wardrobe. Shaving, waxing, sugaring, depilatories, electrolysis or laser treatments can all be used to remove leg hair.

Feet

Have hair on your toes? Use a razor, wax, sugaring product, or depilatories to remove these pesky little hairs. A real “must do” before wearing sandals.

How to Shave

Proper shaving can mean the difference between getting soft, supple skin and ending up with bumpy, irritated skin. Take this task seriously and you should come out okay.

Here’s what to do:

 Start with a sharp blade for a clean cut and to prevent razor burn. Most experts recommend changing blades regularly, after about 3 uses. This could mean once a month or once a week, depending on how often you shave. Try different razors to determine which one works best for you.

 Allow the area that’s going to be shaved to get wet for several minutes before you begin shaving. This softens hair and makes it easier to remove.

 Exfoliate skin to remove dead skin cells that might clog the razor. You can do this with an exfoliating scrub or by gently scrubbing the area with a wash cloth, loofah, or exfoliating gloves.

 Use a shaving gel or foam to prep the skin. Men’s shaving cream and women’s shaving cream or virtually formulated the same. Women’s products generally offer a nicer smell.

 If you have sensitive skin or if shaving products sting or irritate your skin, try prepping the area with shower gel or hair conditioner instead.

 Shave against the hair growth (on you legs) using 2-3 light strokes.

 Shave by feel—not by sight. Using wet fingertips, run your fingers over the shaved area in a circular motion to check for missed areas. Hair grows cross-directionally and may be missed by simply shaving up and down.

 Rinse the shaved area with cool water to close the pores.

 Dry the area thoroughly using gentle, dabbing strokes.

 Apply a good post-shaving lotion. Avoid products with AHA as these may irritate skin.

As you can see, a little TLC goes a long way when shaving.

How to Wax

Like shaving, there are certain ways to prep your skin before waxing to ensure smooth, irritation-free results. Here’s how:

 Grow your hair for two to three weeks. Hair should be at least ¼” long.

 Set aside adequate time to wax if you’ll be doing it yourself. A half hour or more is not uncommon.

 Choose your product and read the instructions carefully.

 Heat the product for recommended amount of time. Do NOT over-heat.

 Test the temperature to make sure it’s tolerable. A lot of women miss this step and burn themselves. Don’t let this happen to you.

 Start with dry skin.

 If you’re waxing (or sugaring) for the first time, test a small area to see how your skin will respond.

 Apply a thin layer of product in the direction of hair growth.

 Press removal strip firmly over wax.

 Starting at the bottom of the strip, turn a small area back against the strip. It should be resting flat against the strip about to be removed.

 With your other hand, gently apply pressure to the skin below the strip so as to hold it taut.

 Lift the end of the strip and pull back in the opposite direction in which you applied the wax or sugaring product. Do not pull up. Pulling back is the correct way to do this.

 Repeat the procedure if you’ve missed a few hairs.

 Continue with the rest of the area until it’s hair free. If it’s your first time waxing or sugaring, you might want to do a small area and wait 24 hours to see how the skin responds before proceeding with the rest of the area.

If you choose professionally waxing over do-it-yourself methods, remember that it can get costly. Think carefully and study your budget before going this route.

Hair Removal Issues

In a perfect world, you end up with smooth, glowing skin once you’ve removed the hair. But the world’s not perfect. Ever get ingrown hairs, razor bumps, or skin irritation when you remove hair? Here’s why:

Ingrown Hairs occur when hair starts to grow back after being removed. Instead of growing back up through the follicle, the hair curls into the follicle and never exits the skin’s surface. It’s a common problem for people with curly hair and afflicts both men and women.

Razor Bumps are a different type of ingrown hair. Instead of curling back into the hair follicle, the hair grows out, curls under, and burrows back into the adjacent skin. This foreign body can become inflamed and create a bump. Like ingrown hairs, this is a big problem for people with curly hair. Black men in particular experience this on their shaved faces and necks.

This product claims to help combat both ingrown hairs and razor bumps. I have not tested it myself:

 Tend Skin http://www.tendskin.com

Skin Irritation can result from many of the things we’ve already talked about, including dull blades, inadequate moisture, allergies to shaving lotions, etc. If you have sensitive skin on your face, assume that you have sensitive skin all over and test each new product carefully. Never try something new a few days before a big event.

Resources

Some other places to learn more about hair removal and after-removal care include:

 Nair http://www.naircare.com

 Sally Hansen http://www.sallyhansen.com

 Shick http://www.schick.com

So what’s the bottom line with hair removal?

There are lots of different ways to remove hair that will leave you with soft, beautiful skin. Find the method that works for you and that fits into your lifestyle and budget, and you’re more likely to stick with it.

8 HANDS, FEET, AND NAILS

“You can always tell a lady by her hands” Scarlett O’Hara, Gone With the Wind

Once upon a time, women wore gloves nearly all the time. They wore them during the day, to evening functions, and during cold weather. Heck, they even wore rubber gloves to clean toilets and wash dishes. Why the obsession with keeping hands covered?

Because you could always tell a lady by her hands: smooth, supple, and unmarred. You still can.

Why we don’t put as much emphasis on ladies and gentlemen and polite behavior as we did even a generation ago, you can still tell a lot about a woman (or a man) by the condition of her hands. Women with dry, callous hands and cracked nails tend to work with their hands;

women with soft, supple hands and smooth nails tend to work with their heads.

While this isn’t always true – plenty of brainy people use their hands to type on keyboards, lecture with chalk in hand, and scrub hands in between treating patients, for example – the perception is that if you have lady-like hands, you either don’t make your living with your hands or you have the money to maintain them so they look like you don’t.

Yes, it’s a bit status-y, but there’s another facet to it: since your hands are one of the first places to show age, neglecting them will make you look older faster. You may be able to throw people (including potential employers) off your actual age with your hair,

makeup, and clothing, but it’s hard to fool them with the hands. They’re a Faye Dunaway is five months younger than dead giveaway. Raquel Welch, and they’re both 66 at this writing. Look at their hands. Who would you say is younger? Photos courtesy of WireImage.com © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 117

So what can you do to keep your hands smooth and supple and looking young for decades? Just use a little TLC.

Basic Hand Care

To have beautiful hands, you need to treat them with respect. Even if you routinely abuse them during the course of the day with frequent washings, by sticking them in chemicals, working with dirt, oil, paint, or whatever, you still need to treat them kindly – perhaps more than kind, given all the abuse.

Here are the basics:

 Always use a moisturizing lotion after you wash your hands. Keep lotion in your bathroom, in your handbag, and in your office desk for easy access.

 Wear gloves when working with tools or equipment that may rub and cause calluses, like when you garden, lift weights, or ride horses.

 Wear cotton-lined rubber gloves when handling chemicals or working in water, like when you clean the bathroom or wash dishes.

 Wear gloves when it’s cold outside (duh!) instead of shoving your hands into your coat pockets or just going without.

 Keep cuticles and nails from getting cracked and dry with soothing products.

 Keep nails trimmed and filed to a uniformed length.

If you’ve been neglecting your hands and follow just these simple steps, your hands will look nicer in a matter of weeks. Be consistent and make a concerted effort and you’ll be surprised by how quickly they’ll recover.

Hand Care as You Age

Now that you have the basics down, you can further protect your hands as you age by catering to their changing needs as the years go by. You expose them to the sun, immerse them in water and use them for just about everything. Here’s how to offer a little extra TLC as the decades pass: © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 118

20’s: Sun Protection

If you get into the habit of protecting your hands like you do your face whenever you’re in the sun, you’ll never have to deal with age spots as the years go by. Look for hand lotion with SPF (there are many on the market) and apply it every time you wash your hands. Also get into the habit of using cotton- lined gloves when you wash dishes, clean your bathroom, or

garden. Wear gloves in cold weather. Hilary Duff

30’s: Soften

If you wash your hands frequently to prepare food, see patients, care for small children and the like, you rob your skin of the oil it needs to keep hands soft and supple. To combat this, try a paraffin treatment at home once a week, or apply a cuticle oil to nails and hands, wrap them in plastic wrap, and cover them with a hot towel for ten minutes for an intense moisturizing session.

(Tip from manicurist Deborah Lippman). Kate Winslet

40’s: Plump Them Up

As you age, your skin loses collagen and becomes very thin and frail-looking. The skin on the back of your hands can start looking bony and taut. To combat this, look for products that contain botanical ingredients, like Clinique’s Stop Signs Hand Repair. For a more dramatic change, consider seeing a doctor, for a procedure where fat is harvested from elsewhere on your

body and injected into your hands to plump them up. Julianne Moore

50’s+: Zap Veins

Visible veins may start to show, making your hands look old and weathered. Retinol can help combat this and drugstore products like Sally Hansen’s Age Correct Retinal Hand Crème can help. For faster, more dramatic results, see your doctor. He can perform a procedure called sclerotherapy, where an irritating solution is injected into the veins to reduce the size.

Or, he may recommend a laser treatment to vaporize smaller Iman veins. Photos courtesy of WireImage.com

Common Hand Problems

If you’ve neglected your hands for some time or have had to abuse them over the years in order to put food on the table, you may find that a little TLC just isn’t enough. What can you do if you find yourself with age spots, swollen hands, or extremely dry hands? Take a look:

Age Spots

As I said earlier, age spots (also called liver spots) don’t necessarily go hand-in-hand with age. Those dark little spots that can pepper your face, hands, and chest occur when skin is repeatedly exposed to ultraviolet rays from the sun.

If the spot isn’t too dark, you may be able to lighten it with an over-the-counter bleaching product, like Porcelana. These commercial solutions contain a 2% solution of hydroquinone and can work effectively. Follow the product’s directions carefully, and discontinue use if skin

becomes irritated. Darker spots require a 3% solution, which is only available by prescription.

Keep in mind that since this damage occurred over time, it’s going to take a little time to fix. Don’t expect miracles overnight. It may take a few months to a year to see a difference. Just keep with it -- and be diligent in your sun protection routine to prevent any further damage.

Swollen Fingers

Your fingers can swell for a variety of reasons, including allergies, PMS, pregnancy and kidney problems. The medical term is edema [i-dee-muh], and it occurs when fluid accumulates in a part of the body where it doesn’t belong.

Here’s what you can do to reduce routine causes of edema:

1. Maintain a high-fiber diet.

2. Increase your protein intake.

3. Decrease salt intake and limit salty foods.

4. Avoid alcohol, caffeine, and pickled foods.

5. Exercise daily.

6. Add a high-potency B-complex supplement (like B6, 50mg) to help reduce water retention.

7. Get tested for food allergies. Allergy is the most common reason for retaining fluids.

If these steps don’t seem to sufficiently reduce the swelling, see your doctor.

Extremely Dry Hands

Very dry hands are often the result of too much hard work and too little TLC. If your hands are frequently exposed to harsh chemicals, frequent washings, and too little moisturizing, give them the care they deserve.

Start by moisturizing with a heavy cream or lotion after every hand washing. If hands are extremely dry and cracked, try products specially formulated for dry hands, like Corn Huskers Lotion or AmLactin.

For cheap, deep moisturizing, slather your hands with

Vaseline Petroleum Jelly™ before you crawl into bed Corn Huskers Lotion at night, put on cotton gloves, and sleep in them. Your Drugstore.com hands will be amazingly soft the next morning. Repeat as often as needed.

So what do you need to remember when caring for your hands? If you take care of them, they’ll take care of you. Moisture and pamper to keep them soft and supple, and they’ll take you gently into old age.

How to Get Beautiful Nails

Beautiful nails. It seems that either you’re born with them, or you’re not. Keeping them can be a challenge. No sooner do you get all ten nails one length, it seems, then they start breaking or chipping of their own accord. Why is that? More importantly,

what can you do about it?

Let’s take a look:

BASIC NAIL CARE

The nails on the fingers and toes are made of a hard protein called keratin. The nails help to protect the fingers and toes from trauma, and usually do a good job of it under normal circumstances. The average nail takes about 90 days to grow from base to tip. Like hair and skin, nails will become brittle and weak if subjected to neglect and poor diet.

Want great looking natural nails without a lot of bother and fuss? Here’s how you do it:

 Eat foods that are rich in iron, calcium, vitamin B and potassium, like dairy products, seafood, celery, and soy.

 Drink 8 glasses of water every day to hydrate the body, including your nails. Weak and splitting nails can often be traced to poor water intake.

 Remember that sun and chlorine can make nails brittle. Use sunscreen on your hands, and moisturize well after swimming.

 Wear gloves when cleaning with harsh chemicals, washing dishes, or gardening. Keep gloves handy in your work areas and use them religiously.

 Avoid using perfumed lotions that contain alcohol if your nails are brittle. This will only exacerbate the problem.

 Don’t bite your nails.

 Don’t use your nails as tools to open letters, boxes, scrape stuff off surfaces, etc. Use the pads of the fingers instead. Not only will this save your nails, it makes you look more graceful as well.

 Always use a hand lotion or cream after washing your hands. Soaps and cleaners dry out hands and nails.

Keeping your nails neat and tidy is as important as clean hair and pressed clothes. People notice the details, so take time to attend to them. A few minutes is all it takes to have a nice looking set of nails. We’ll get to basic manicures in just a moment, but first, let’s look at what kinds of nails are best for you.

NAILS FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE

So, do you need to have a long, lovely set of nails? Maybe, maybe not. If you have the time and budget to maintain them and you’re in the spotlight a lot, then perhaps it’s appropriate. But if your days are spent on an archeological dig or on your hands and knees scrubbing floors, maybe not.

Here are some suggestions for nail lengths and manicures, depending on your line of work:

Medium to Long, Painted

This length is popular in image related businesses like advertising, cosmetics, entertainment, fashion, interior design, jewelry, perfume, speaking, etc. Long, lovely nails imply that you have the time and money to maintain them, and that you don’t do a lot of manual labor.

Short to Medium, Painted

This is the choice of many professionals, like accountants, architects, attorneys, business consultants, physicians, teachers, writers, etc. Nicely maintained short to medium length nails show that you don’t let your nails interfere with your work, but that you have the time and resources to maintain a manicure. © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 123

Short, Clear Polish

If your hands are your livelihood, this is probably your manicure of choice. Chefs, gardeners, tailors, and many artists will opt for this look, because it allows them to look professional without having to dig stuff out from under their nails all the time. Neatly trimmed with a clear polish, it shows the world that you care about how your hands look, but

longer nails would interfere with your work.

If you’re in a business environment, always opt for classic nail colors like red, burgundy, pink, or clear, or wear a French manicure (white tips). Long nails in wild colors or patterns are best saved for weekends and vacations because they pull attention away from the business at hand.

Whatever you choose, do be consistent in your care and your nail length. Nothing looks worse than an old, chipped manicure, or two long nails surrounded by eight short neighbors. “People look at your paws,” a modeling agent once told me. She’s right. So take care of them.

One man I knew, a jeweler, had a standing appointment with his manicurist. “You can’t show expensive jewels with a workman’s hands,” he once told me. Since he made very good money, he obviously knew what he was talking about. Consider what your nails say about you.

MANICURES 101

Want a nice manicure, but your schedule or budget won’t allow for a weekly trip to the salon? No problem! Just do it yourself.

The Basic Manicure

Set aside a few minutes (15-20) every week to look after your nails.

1. Assemble the tools you’ll need for the job, including:

. Bowl of Warm Soapy Water . Orange Stick . Nail File or Emery Board . Nail Brush . Hand Cream . Clear Nail Polish . Nail Polish

2. Remove any old nail polish. Moisten a cotton ball or pad with polish remover and press over the nail for about 10 seconds to soften the polish. This helps dissolve the polish without overly rubbing nails and cuticles.

3. Shape the nail using a file or emery board. File from corner to center. Do NOT file in a seesaw motion as this will create ridges in the nail and may lead to splitting.

Never file deep into the corners of the nail. Filing the corners weakens the sides of the nail, which are very important for overall strength. Allow your nail to grow out at the sides so they’ll look longer and wear better.

4. Soak hands in warm, sudsy water for a few minutes and use a clean nailbrush to remove any dirt under the nails, if applicable. Gently clean under the tip with an orangewood stick. Dry thoroughly.

5. Should you use the orangewood stick to push back the cuticle at this point? There are two schools of thought. One would say yes, absolutely. The second would say no, pushing back the cuticle might lead to infection. You decide.

6. Massage a good moisturizer into and around the nail bed and hands and remove any excess with a cotton swab or a piece of cotton wrapped around the orangewood stick.

7. Apply clear nail polish to the nail and allow it to dry. This helps protect the nail from discoloration and creates a smooth surface for your colored polish.

You could also use a base coat, ridge filler, or nail strengthener in lieu of the clear nail polish, if you like. Since all of these products pretty much do the same thing, clear polish keeps the process simple and inexpensive.

8. Apply a thin layer of colored polish. Start at the base of the center of the nail, and use three strokes to cover the entire surface. Middle, left side, right side, you’re done! Allow this coat to dry and apply a second using the same technique.

9. Once the second layer of color is dry, apply another coat of clear polish to “seal” in the color and help prevent the color from chipping. You could use a product described as a “top coat”, but again, using clear polish keeps everything simple.

Allow the final coat to dry thoroughly before putting on jewelry, getting dressed, folding laundry, etc., or you could smudge and smear your way into a fix job. Also, forget about trying to polish your nails right before you go to bed. No matter how much time I’ve allowed the polish to dry, the crisscross pattern of sheet fabric always seems to appear come morning. Go figure.

So what if you don’t like to polish your nails or don’t have time for four coats of polish to dry? Opt for one layer of clear polish to make your nails shiny and give them a little protection.

The French Manicure

If you’re a little more adventuresome and adept at working with polish, you might want to consider trying a French Manicure. With this style, you paint the tips white and leave the rest of the nail neutral. It’s classic, easy to maintain, and usually looks very elegant.

Here’s how you can do it yourself:

1. Hit the drugstore or beauty supply center to pick up the necessary tools: clear polish, tip guide, neutral polish, and white polish. Neutral polishes are very pale, very sheer shades in pink, beige, or peach, and should approximate your natural nail color while complimenting your skin tone. Some French Manicure kits offer everything in one box, which makes it very convenient.

2. Clip and shape your nails to prepare them for polish. Tend to your cuticles, if that’s your preference, then wash and dry them thoroughly.

3. Apply one coat of clear nail polish as a base coat and let it dry.

4. Peel off a guide strip and affix it below the tip of the nail, following its natural curve. Can’t figure out where to place the guide? Go by the length of your nails. Generally, the longer the nail, the longer the white tip should be. Make sure the arch of the guide is smooth and rounded and that all your tip lengths are relatively consistent. Use the tip of the orange stick, if necessary, to help you apply the guides, and cut yourself some slack if it’s not perfect the first time. Remember, practice makes perfect.

Can you paint without a guide? Of course. But since it allows you to paint an even white tip with ease and precision, you’ll save yourself time and frustration by using a guide. Go freehand when you’re more experienced.

5. Paint each nail tip white, taking the brush from the top of the guide to the end of the nail. Try not to get any white polish on the body of the nail below the guide. Let the tips dry.

6. Remove all the guides. If you have any leftover adhesive, you can usually remove it by gently rubbing a cotton swab dipped in alcohol over the area.

7. Apply two coats of the neutral polish, allowing the first coat to dry in between. If your neutral color is very opaque, opt for one layer only of the neutral shade. When the second coat is dry, finish the job with a thin layer of clear or top coat.

If the classic French Manicure is a little too conservative for your tastes, try different combinations of colors on the weekend or when you’re going on vacation. Instead of white and neutral, try white with silver or gold tips, red with ChristiesNails.com black tips, or any combination that you prefer.

Other Nail Polish Tips

Here are some polish tips to keep in the back of your mind:

 If your nail polish is too thick, use nail polish thinner.

 Keep polish in the refrigerator to make it last longer.

 Try not to use nail polish remover more than once a week, as it causes nails to dry out. Dry nails crack and split more easily than nails that are hydrated (moisturized).

 If your nails are stained from nail polish, dirt, or bacteria, you can apply a bleach solution with a cotton swab to get the stain out. Mix 10 parts water to one part bleach, soak your cotton swab (or cotton ball attached to an orangewood stick) in it, then rub the cotton over the stain on your nail. This should remove all or most of the stain.

Did You Know?

Nail polish was invented in China about 5,000 years ago, and red and black were the most popular colors. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), polish was made from a combination of beeswax, egg whites, gelatin, vegetable dyes and Arabic gum. The polish we use today is a refined version of car paint.

THE PROS AND CONS OF ARTIFICIAL NAILS

So, should you get “fake” nails? Many women really like them. If you have weak or brittle nails or if you’re “all thumbs” when it comes to do-it-yourself beauty, artificial nails may be an option. Just be sure to go into the situation with your eyes open.

Like hair color or a short haircut, having artificial nails requires a commitment of both time and money. Here’s what you’ll need to consider:

Pros  Consistent nail length  Professional application  Regular grooming  Lovely nails

Cons  Regular maintenance, approximately every two weeks  $20-$30 per salon visit, + tip  Emergency repairs extra  Long-term wear weakens natural nails

If you’re thinking about getting your nails done for a special occasion, like a wedding, anniversary, or reunion, and are not planning on keeping them up after © 2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age 128

the big event, tell that to your nail technician and see what she suggests. Acrylics never look nice as they grow out, and most women I know damage their natural nails by scraping or picking off the artificial nail. See if you can find a good-looking alternative for your special day, like just a simple shape and paint job.

Tips on Traveling

When you travel, maintaining your nails can be a chore. Here are some suggestions for a trouble-free trip:

1. Opt for a French manicure. It goes with everything and generally shows less wear and tear than colored polish.

2. Take nail polish remover pads instead of a bottle of nail polish remover, which may leak.

3. Keep your polish in a zipped plastic bag to contain leaks during travel.

4. If it’s vital that your nails look perfect for a special event in your destination city, and you wear sculptured or acrylic nails, hit the Internet before you go to find nail salons in the town where you’ll be staying.

Find one or two that look promising and print out their web site information. Put the pages in your “personal documents” folder for reference. You may never need them, but if you must look great no matter what, having a “Plan B” is a smart move.

5. Always take along clippers and a fingernail file. Even if you don’t paint your nails, you should keep them neat, clean and a consistent length.

Basic Foot Care

Now that we’ve looked at hands, let’s take a quick look at feet. Since they often take a lot of abuse over the years -- just like your hands -- take extra care with them so they’ll look and feel good whatever time of year.

Here’s how:

 Use a pumice stone regularly to remove cracked and dry skin. Take it into the bath or shower with you. Just before you’re ready to get out, when your feet are good and moist and your skin is malleable, lather up a little soap on your heel and rub the pumice stone across it for several seconds. This will help exfoliate the dry skin.

 Always put lotion on your feet after bathing. Once you’re out of the tub and have dried off, slather you feet with lotion and sit for a few minutes to allow the moisturizer to sink in.

 Keep toenails trimmed and of a uniform, short length.

 Wear slippers around your house in the winter to keep feet warm and reduce exposure to temperature extremes.

 Wear shoes that keep your feet warm and dry in inclement weather. If that style doesn’t work with the clothes you want to wear, take the fashion shoes with you to wear at your destination.

 For a quick fix, try the same moisture-intense treatment that you did for your hands: before you crawl into bed at night, slather your feet in Vaseline Petroleum Jelly™, put on a pair of cotton socks, and sleep in them.

Doing just these few things should keep your skin soft and supple year around. Remember, just because your feet are stuffed in shoes all winter doesn’t mean you should neglect them until sandal weather. In fact, if you maintain them all year long, getting them “beach ready” won’t be a problem.

Common Foot Problems

Sometimes, routine care just isn’t enough. Because of the abuse they take carrying us around every day, feet can still end up with problems. Here are some of the most common:

Athlete’s Foot

Athlete’s foot is a fungus that usually develops between the toes. Wet, damp feet kept in dark, moist socks or shoes can lead to Athlete’s Foot or other fungal infections, which is why swimming pools, showers, and locker rooms – places where athletes frequent – are ideal breeding grounds for the APMA.org fungus. Here’s how to protect yourself:

1. Dry your feet carefully after bathing, showering, or swimming. Be sure to dry in between toes.

2. Wear shoes made from leather or natural materials. Don’t wear waterproof or rubber shoes everyday if you can avoid it. These materials hold moisture.

3. Wear 100% cotton socks and change them frequently. If you’re prone to sweaty feet, take an extra pair of socks with you and change them during the day.

4. Wear shower shoes or flip flops when using community showers.

5. Rotate your shoes, particularly gym shoes. Don’t wear the same pair every day; allow them to dry in between each wearing.

6. Consider shoe liners. Some reduce foot moisture.

Cracked Heels

Cracked heels, also known as heel fissures, are commonly caused by dry skin. If the cracks are deep, they can be painful to stand on and the skin can bleed.

Factors that can exacerbate cracked heels include: ePodiatry.com

 Prolonged standing  Being overweight  Thin-soled shoes  Open-heeled shoes  Medical conditions like psoriasis and eczema

To combat cracked heels:

 Use a pumice stone regularly to break down the dry skin  Apply lotion twice a day, in the morning and at night  Wear thick-soled, closed-heeled shoes

Never try to remove the dry skin with a razor or other sharp instrument; it could lead to infection. See a podiatrist for severe cases.

Corns and Calluses

Corns and calluses develop when your shoes repeatedly rub your feet the wrong way. These extra layers of hard, dry skin develop to protect the pressure points of your foot. If a corn grows thick enough to press on the nerves, it can hurt.

To treat this pesky problem, soften the corn by soaking your feet in plain lukewarm water for five or ten minutes. Then, while feet are still immersed, use a pumice stone or synthetic ePodiatry.com abrasive pad to rub off the dead skin a little at a time. Dry thoroughly and use a moisturizing cream to help keep your skin soft.

Cushion the worst offenders by tucking a tuft of lamb’s wool (available at drugstores) between your toes. If you feel compelled to use one of the adhesive- backed, doughnut-shaped pieces of moleskin to pad the corn while it heals, remember to wear shoes large enough to accommodate the padding. Don’t exacerbate the problem by stuffing your foot into tight shoes.

Bunions

Bunions develop when the knobby lump that forms at the outside of the big-toe joint becomes sore and swollen, irritating nearby nerves. This usually happens when your feet have been encased in shoes that press

To reduce the pain:

 Try ice. If your bunion feels hot and swollen, it may be inflamed. Cool it down by applying a cloth-covered ice pack. Apply for 10 or 15 minutes, then remove for a few minutes to let your foot warm up before applying again.

Caution: If you have diabetes or chronic circulation problems in your feet, avoid ice for any foot problems.

 Measure your foot. Give bunions plenty of space. Get the pressure off your bunions by wearing the right size shoe. Always get your foot measured when buying shoes.

 Try men's footwear. If you can’t find your width in women’s shoes, try men’s. They’re usually cut wider.

Get arch support. This also helps distribute your body weight evenly across your entire foot surface.

Have a problem that’s not listed here? You can learn more about other kinds of foot problems at Epodiatry.com and at The American Podiatric Medical Association website, APMA.org .

It all boils down to this: as with so many things, if you take a few minutes every day to care for your feet, they’ll look great with a minimum of fuss. Wear shoes that fit properly, attend to anything abnormal, and take care of your feet. They’re the only pair you’re going to get.

PERFECT PEDICURES

Warm weather and pedicures go hand in hand. If you take a few minutes to get your feet in shape, you can slip on a sexy pair of straps or sandals with only a moment’s notice.

Here’s how:

1. Soak you feet for about ten minutes and pat them dry.

2. Clip toenails straight across, or if you prefer, use an emery board (wait until toenails are dry).

3. Remove any rough areas with a pumice stone.

4. Apply foot lotion and massage into each foot. Remove any excess lotion.

5. If you want to apply polish, use the same technique as you did for your fingernails: one clear coat, two coats of color, one clear coat to finish. Paint one stroke down the center of the nail, then a stroke down either side to fill in the color.

6. Clean clippers with alcohol and store until the next use.

Taking the time to keep your feet groomed pays big dividends. Not only will you look great in sandals, you’ll have healthy feet that will take you wherever you want to go.

9 FRAGRANCE

“To attract men, I wear a perfume called ‘New Car Interior.’'' – Rita Rudner

Whenever I catch a drift of Estee Lauder’s “Youth Dew” wafting through the air, I think of my friend, Pat. Light and spicy with a hint of the orient, it’s her signature scent. When I told her how much I liked it one time, she gave me a bottle of it for my birthday. But I only wore it once. Why? Because it’s HER scent. It just didn’t smell the same on me.

Sound familiar?

Perfume is such a personal choice, and with prices the way they are, not one to be taken lightly. Finding the “right” scent can be a challenge...unless you know what you’re looking for. Let’s take a few minutes to shed some light on this intoxicating accessory.

A Brief History of Perfume

The use of fragranced materials goes back thousands of years. The word "perfume" comes from the Latin per fum –meaning "through smoke" - reflecting one of the oldest uses of aromatic materials: the burning of incense and herbs as a religious offering. The Ancient Egyptians were particularly famous for their use of perfumes, and they used them in many forms.

Frankincense and myrrh were exuded from the resin of local trees and were used widely throughout the Mediterranean. Fragrant extracts of many other plants such as rose, henna, lily and peppermint were produced by steeping the plant in oil or fat to produce salves or ointments. These could then be rubbed on the skin.

Around 1400 B.C., the most refined people in Egypt would place a cone of scented grease on their heads, which would slowly melt with the heat of the body and the warm atmosphere to bathe their head and body in rare perfumes, and leave their clothes clinging to their body, revealing their shape. Salves and resins were also used in the embalming process and in funeral rituals.

Just as perfumes have been around since ancient times, so too, has the tradition of encasing perfumes in expensive and beautiful containers. Popular materials among the Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks included alabaster, onyx and elaborately blown glass.

As trade routes expanded from the Mediterranean region to India and China, new materials became available. By the Middle Ages, sandalwood, cloves and cinnamon from the Far East were important in Western Europe. The spices

were used in perfumes and medicine as well as for food. Cloves Pomanders (balls made of resins, powdered spices, scented oils and water) were a popular form of perfume at the time. They could be worn as necklaces or bracelets or held in the

hand and sniffed to mask foul odors, which were abundant at this time. They were also used to try to ward off the plague Cinnamon and other diseases.

After the Arabs developed the process of distillation in the 7th or 8th century, perfume masters were able to produce essential oils and scented waters. These were used for a variety of purposes, including scenting rooms and linens.

Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed gloves became popular in France and in 1656, the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established. The use of perfume in France grew steadily. The court of Louis XV was even named "the perfumed court" due to the scents which were applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture.

Eau de Cologne was first introduced in 1710 and was met

with immediate success. This refreshing blend of rosemary, neroli, bergamot and lemon was used in a multitude of different ways, including being diluted in bath water, mixed with wine, eaten on a sugar lump, as a mouthwash, etc. The variety of eighteenth-century perfume containers was as wide as that of the fragrances and their uses. Glass became

increasingly popular, particularly in France when the Baccarat factory opened in 1765.

The development of organic chemistry in the 1800’s allowed the production of synthetic perfume materials, which greatly reduced the cost of creating fragrances. Colorful, unstable, quirky, and expensive, natural essences

demanded an exacting science that kept the cost of production high and the recipes for perfumes much-coveted secrets. After synthetics were introduced, perfume became affordable to the masses and the billion-dollar perfume industry was born.

When French perfumery hit its peak in the 1950’s, designers like Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Nina Ricci, Pierre Balmain and others started creating their own scents. It’s a tradition that continues throughout couture today.

Did You Know?

The best selling perfume in the world is STILL Chanel No. 5? Created for Coco Chanel by Ernest Beaux in 1921, Chanel No. 5 was the fifth in a line of fragrances Ernest Beaux presented her. Another popular Chanel fragrance? Chanel No. 19.

How Perfume Is Made

So now that we’ve learned a little bit about how perfumes and other scents have evolved, what actually goes into perfume?

At its most basic level, perfume is a solution of pleasant-smelling materials in solvent, usually alcohol plus water.

Since a single scent is pretty boring, the art comes in mixing the scents, sometimes dozens of them chosen from among thousands, to create something unique and different. Composed of three “notes” or layers, a typical mixture usually contains very volatile scents for the initial top note, less volatile scents for the sustained aroma, and persistent scents for the final end note. Fixatives alter the rates of vaporization and allow the scent to sustain its smell.

So what are the “notes” again?

The Top Note is the most volatile and quickest to evaporate. While it’s the first thing you smell, it’s also the first scent to dissipate. Typical oils used in top notes include anise, basil, chamomile, coriander, lavender, mandarin, marigold, and spearmint. Lavender Field

The Middle Note is the balancing and most therapeutic layer, and generally forms the greatest proportion of the blend. Oils used in middle notes include

cinnamon, frankincense, ginger, hyacinth, jasmine, myrrh, nutmeg, orchid, oriental rose, thyme, and violets.

The Base Note is the least volatile, longest lasting, and slowest to evaporate. These are usually roots, gums, or resins, and include things like benzoin, cedarwood, heliotrope, olibanum, sandalwood, and vanilla. Vanilla Beans

Did you know that you can select fragrance by scent categories, just as you would select a fine bottle of wine? Popular women’s categories include:

Floral - This is the largest category, and it includes fragrances whose primary ingredients are derived from flowers such as jasmine, rose, violet, carnation, orange- blossom, gardenia, ylang-ylang, etc.

Examples: Carolina Herrera, Paris, White Diamonds

Oriental - Generally full-bodied compositions that create an exotic, warm impression due to the inclusion of ingredients like spices, musk, balsams, and resins. Examples: Shalimar, Royal Secret, Contradiction

Chypre - pronounced "sheepra", chypre is French for "Cyprus" and was first used by François Coty to describe his impression of aromas he encountered on the island of Cyprus. He created a woodsy, mossy, citrusy perfume named Chypre, which is no longer made, but the word is still used to describe fragrances that are made in that style. Chypre fragrances generally owe their soft, sweet, earthy natures to ingredients like bergamot, oakmoss, citruses, and that 60's favorite, patchouli (making a comeback!). Examples: Y, Dalimix

Citrus - These are compositions where citrus fruits like lime, lemon, tangerine, mandarin and bergamot are blended to create a fragrance that has effervescent or exhilarating qualities. It’s more common in men's fragrances, but increasingly popular in women's, too. It’s also one of the oldest fragrance categories, dating back to ancient times. Example: CK One

Fougère - pronounced "foozh-air", French for "fern", these are fragrances with fresh, herbaceous notes on a mossy, fernlike base. Example: Cool Water

Green - These are compositions where the predominant notes are derived from green plant parts and notes such as pine, juniper, grass, leaves, and herbs. Example: Safari, Bvlgari Extrême

When you think of all the natural materials that can be evaporated, mashed, distilled, or whatever to make essential oils (or synthetics thereof), the combinations are almost limitless…which is probably why there are so many perfumes on the market today!

The Strength of Perfumes

So what’s the difference between perfume, eau de toilette, slash cologne, etc?

It’s the ratio of essential oil to water and alcohol.

Perfume is the strongest, while splash cologne is the weakest. Here’s a visual to help you see the differences:

Type of Liquid Amount of Essential Balance of Alcohol Oil

Perfume 15-30% 90-95% Eau de perfume 8-15% 80-90% Eau de toilette 4-8% 80-90% Eau de cologne 3-5% 70% Splash cologne 1-3% 80%

In case you were wondering, eau is the French word for water. The more water a fragrance has, the less essential oil it contains. Since the oil is the most expensive component, prices decrease as the amount of oil used decreases.

Who Knows? The “Nose”!

Ever heard of a “nose”? In the perfume industry, it’s the person who creates fragrances. There was a time when the job of perfume-maker was handed down from father to son, but times have changed and now there are several schools dedicated to the science of perfume-making. Today, there are only three major French perfume-makers (Chanel, Guerlain, and Jean Patou) that have heir own in-house blender. Most of the other designers license their name to third party perfume makers.

The Wear and Care of Your Favorite Scent

So now that you have an understanding of why perfume is so costly, are there any special tips you need to know regarding its wear and care? You bet! Here are a few guidelines for getting the most of this product:

1. Use It or Lose It

Unlike fine wine, fragrance does not get better with age. So use it or lose it, baby! For maximum shelf life, store fragrance away from bright sunlight, in a cool, dark area, with the cap tightly secured. Fragrance oils can turn rancid or evaporate if improperly stored.

Colognes and eau de toilettes (not parfum) may be kept in the refrigerator in order to maintain their freshness. Fragrances usually last 3 years from the date they were manufactured, not the day you buy it. Buy from department stores and other reputable sources to ensure the quality of the fragrance.

2. Apply With Care

When using an eau de cologne, eau de toilette, or eau de parfum, spray or dab liberally on the skin. These versions of fragrance are designed to be used all over. Spray in the air and walk into a cloud of scent for an even, head to toe experience!

Perfume, the most concentrated version of scent, is designed to be applied at the pulse points, on the wrists, behind the neck, in the décolleté, behind the ears, or even behind the knees. Your body warmth will radiate the scent.

3. Linger, Not Overpower

Ever been gagged by a heavy-handed perfume wearer? Me too. Want to know who usually falls into this category? Older women. Why? Because fragrance doesn’t last as long on dry and maturing skin as it does skin with normal or heavy oil content. The oil holds the scent. So to compensate, they apply more to begin with.

Don’t do this. If you have dry or mature skin, try

changing to a lighter version of what you are wearing, perhaps an Eau de Toilette. Or try "layering" fragrance by using several products in a line. Begin with scented soap or bath oil, follow with body lotion or crème, dust with powder to set the fragrance, and follow with

perfume at the pulse points, or an all-over spritz of eau de parfum. Use body crème for extra nourishment in cold winter months.

4. Stay Out of The Sun

What do you get when you mix alcohol and fire? A burn. What do you get when you mix the alcohol in perfume with the sun’s rays? The same thing. So don’t spritz yourself with scent and then lay out in the sun. The alcohol promotes burning and may even leave you with brown spots on your skin.

5. Beware the Watch Band

If you wear a watch, the perfume can react to the plastic or leather strap. So don’t spray the pulse-point on your wrist. Instead, try some of these other areas:

Behind your ears Behind your knees Between your breasts In your hair

6. Reactive the Scent

You can reactivate the faded scent on your skin by simply rubbing it.

7. Change with the Seasons

There are certain fragrances that are more appropriate for summer and other, stronger scents that would be better for winter use. Citrus scents are perfect for summer while Orientals are better for winter.

8. Develop a Perfume Wardrobe

How many different types of fragrances should you

have and wear? The Fragrance Foundation, an industry association, suggests a minimum of four scent types to start a wardrobe: a floral, an oriental, a chypre, and a green. These will carry you through various climates and occasions, and you can enhance your wardrobe from there.

9. It’s All In The Chemistry

Have you ever adored a scent for years, only to have it suddenly stop working for you? You’re not alone. There are a number of reasons this can happen.

If you have changed your diet, moved to a new climate, began taking a new medication, or if you are under more stress than usual, your body chemistry can affect your skin’s reaction to a fragrance. The rise and fall of hormone levels can do the same thing. So it’s not your imagination...it’s your chemistry!

Create Your Signature Scent

Perfume snobs compare buying fragrance in a store to going to a drive thru for dinner: it’s okay for the masses, but not for connoisseurs. True aficionados have scents made for them. Whether they do it themselves or engage someone else to do the chemistry, there’s nothing like having a scent made just for you. Except, perhaps, having clothes made just for you.

Here are some places that can make scents just for you:

 Bourbon French Perfumes http://www.neworleansperfume.com

 My Pampered Rose http://www.mypamperedrose.com/

 RomanceHer.com http://www.romanceher.com/perfume.htm

 Scent Design http://www.scentdesign.net

Whether you have a scent created just for you or go with the “for the masses” option, DO find a scent that says “you,” so whenever someone else smells “your” scent, they’ll immediately think of you.