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Basic Perfume Primer
THE INSTITUTE FOR ART AND OLFACTION BASIC PERFUME PRIMER TABLE OF CONTENTS • About the IAO o Mission statement o Philosophy o This primer • Taxonomies: o Top, middle, base o Fragrance families • Materials: o Aromatic chemicals o Naturals, synthetics, accords o Essential oil vs. absolute vs. etc. • Working with Scent: o Working with the materials o Lab safety basics o Pipettes, scent strips, beakers o Techniques for Smelling o IAO best practices ABOUT THIS DOCUMENT This document was prepared by staff and instructors at the Institute for Art and Olfaction, with a view of providing some foundational knowledge for IAO students and curious minds just coming to perfumery. Contributors include Ashley Eden Kessler, Minetta Rogers, Saskia Wilson-Brown and Timothy Van Ausdal, as well as online sources such as The Fragrance Society, The Perfume Expert, Mandy Aftel, Michael Edwards, Wikipedia and Science for New Students. We invite you to share this information under the guides of the Creative Commons Attribution- ShareAlike 4.0 International License. This license lets others remix, tweak, and build upon this work - even for commercial purposes - as long as they credit the IAO and other contributors, and license their new creations under the identical terms. With this license, you are free to share (copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format) and adapt (remix, transform, and build upon the material for any purpose, even commercially) this work. The IAO cannot revoke these freedoms as long as you follow the license terms. ABOUT THE IAO MISSION STATEMENT Founded in September 2012 in Los Angeles, The Institute for Art and Olfaction is a 501(c)3 non- profit devoted to advancing public, artistic and experimental engagement with scent. -
Analysis of Impression Evaluation of Fragrances Associated with ‘Omotenashi’ in Elderly People Using Perfumes – Including Comparative with Young People –
TInrtaenrsnaactitoionnasl Joof uJranpaal no fS Aofcfeiecttyiv oef EKnagnisneie Eringineering J-STAGE Advance Published Date: 2020.09.16 doi: 10.5057/ijae.IJAE-D-20-00016 ORIGINAL ARTICLE Analysis of Impression Evaluation of Fragrances Associated with ‘Omotenashi’ in Elderly People using Perfumes – Including Comparative with Young People – Harumi NAKAGAWA and Noriaki KUWAHARA Kyoto Institute of Technology, Matsugasaki, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto 606-8585, Japan Abstract: In this study, we used 6 different fragrances to better understand the tendency of scents to elicit a sense of omotenashi (hospitality) in elderly people. To first understand how elderly people perceive scents associated with feelings of omotenashi we performed an impression evaluation using SD method of 22 adjective pairs. We then analyzed the results taken from a questionnaire survey we conducted on 51 elderly Japanese men and women using a factor analysis, and extracted the factors that represent sensations of scents which produced a sense of omotenashi. Our subsequent examination of the main underlying factors indicated that scents with sensations of freshness, adulthood and pleasure hinted a sense of omotenashi in scents for elderly people. We also noted differences in the way the scent was perceived compared to young people. Keywords: Elderly, SD method, Fragrances Japan’s super-aged society, Shiizuka proposes a frame- 1. INTRODUCTION work for leveraging the ‘meta-kansei engineering’ method. The proposal, based on data from the White Paper on How much information do we receive and perceive Ageing Society published by the Cabinet Office, provides from scents in 24 hours of our daily lives? The informa- examples of training the five senses, including the sense tion on these scents is will differ depending on the kansei of smell and “expressing different fragrances” [4]. -
University of Cincinnati
UNIVERSITY OF CINCINNATI Date: August 13, 2006. I, Grettel Zamora-Estrada , hereby submit this work as a part of the requirements of the degree of: Master of Science (M.S.) . in: Pharmaceutical Sciences . It is entitled: Partitioning of Perfume Raw Materials in Conditioning Shampoos using Gel Network Technology________________________________________ ty . This work and its defense approved by: Chair: Gerald B. Kasting, Ph. D. _____________ R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D. Eric S. Johnson, Ph.D. Kevin M. Labitzke, A.S. _ . Partitioning of Perfume Raw Materials in Conditioning Shampoos using Gel Network Technology by Grettel Zamora-Estrada A dissertation proposal synopsis Submitted in partial fulfillment Of the requirements for the degree of M.S. Pharmaceutical Sciences University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy Cincinnati, Ohio July 23, 2006 ii ABSTRACT Gel network technology in conditioning shampoo represents an advantage over traditional silicone 2-in-1 technology due to its main benefits: dry conditioning, wet feel and lower cost. The purpose of this study was to do a proof of principle investigation and to study the main factors that affected partitioning of PRMs into the gel network system shampoos and determine the effect that perfume incorporation had on the shampoo stability of the different formulations . Gel network premixes (literally a conditioner) were formulated then incorporated into a standard shampoo base. Changes in formulation of the gel network such as chain length of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol ratios were done and its effect on stability and perfume migration studied. A technical accord with 25 PRMs with a very wide range of physical properties was used as a marker. -
Engineering Perfumes
ENGINEERING PERFUMES Dissertation presented to the FACULDADE DE ENGENHARIA DA UNIVERSIDADE DO PORTO for the degree of Doctor in Chemical Engineering by Paula Cristina Baldaia M. S. Gomes Supervisors Professor Alírio E. Rodriges Doutora Vera G. Mata Departamento de Engenharia Química Faculdade de Engenharia Universidade do Porto May 2005 i TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF FIGURES viii LIST OF TABLES xv CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Relevance and Motivation 1 1.2 Objectives and Outline 3 CHAPTER 2 PERFUMERY œ A REVIEW 5 2.1 The F&F Industry 6 2.2 The regulatory context 14 2.3 The sense of smell 15 2.4 Classification of perfumery materials 17 2.4.1 The chemistry of flavour and fragrance materials 18 2.4.2 Aroma chemicals 18 2.4.3 Natural materials 21 2.5 Production of aromatic plants in Portugal 25 2.6 Production methods of natural perfumery materials 27 2.6.1 Distillation 28 2.6.2 Expression 30 2.6.3 Solvent Extraction 31 ii 2.6.4 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 33 2.7 Adding value to naturals 34 2.8 Formulation and production of perfumes 35 2.8.1 Perfume structure and evaporation 37 2.8.2 Classification of perfumes 40 2.8.3 Creation of perfume 42 2.8.4 Manufacturing of perfumes 44 2.9 The scientific contribution to perfumery 46 2.9.1 Isolation methods 46 2.9.2 Analytical methods 47 2.9.3 Physical basis 49 2.10 Conclusions 52 2.11 References 53 CHAPTER 3 CHARACTERIZATION OF TWO PORTUGUESE NATURAL 5 MATERIALS 6 3.1 Introduction 57 3.2 Portuguese-grown Geranium-rose (Pelargonium sp) essential 59 oil 3.2.1 Organoleptic characteristics 61 3.2.2 Perfumery -
FM Perfumes Listing Catalogue 33 – 18 January 2021 X Numbers Are 'WHILE STOCKS LAST' Items
FM Perfumes Listing Catalogue 33 – 18 January 2021 X numbers are 'WHILE STOCKS LAST' items. Rank is an indication of how well a perfume sells. No 1 means the bestseller in its class over the last 4 years. None means it has not appeared in any of the top ten listings. FM Range Classical Family Fragrance Wheel Family Rank Same Family Group as 1 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Floral SOFT-FLORAL Musk Fresh None Simply Chic, Ange ou Demon Le Secret, and Escada S MOSSY-WOODS Citrus-Fruity 5 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Chypre Fruity No 9 Si, Gucci Rush, and Sofia Crisp 6 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Citrus Aromatic CITRUS Fresh None Happy for Men, Green Tea, and Dalimix 7 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Floral Fruity FLORAL Water Fresh No 26 Wild Bluebell, Acqua Di Gio, and Blue Glow FLORAL-ORIENTAL Green 9 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Floral None Blu, Naomagic, and Touch for Women Fresh 10 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Floral Fruity FLORAL Citrus-Fruity Fresh No 15 In Love Again, J'Adore, and J'Adore In Joy 12 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Oriental Vanilla WOODY-ORIENTAL Classic None Black Gold, Hypnose, and Helmut Lang EDP WOODY-ORIENTAL Citrus- Hemlock, Jimmy Choo EDP, and Black Pepper and 16 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Chypre Fruity No 3 Fruity Crisp Sandalwood 17 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Floral Fruity FLORAL Citrus-Fruity Crisp None Onika, Paris Hilton, and Private Collection 2 WOODY-ORIENTAL Citrus- 18 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Chypre Floral No 1 Miss Dior Le Parfum, Coco Mademoiselle, and Chance Fruity Fresh WOODY-ORIENTAL Gourmand 20 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Oriental Floral No 2 Viva La Juicy, Flowerbomb, and 212 Sexy Fresh 21 Ladies Pure £16.90 50ml Parfum Floral Aldehyde SOFT-FLORAL Classic No 10 L'Aimant, Chanel No. -
The Chemistry of Smellable Molecules → Volatility?
The chemistry of smellable molecules volatility? The chemical categories to which most odoriferous substances belong are : 1. Terpenes (= isoprenoides): e.g. Menthol, lemonene, thymol 2. Phenoles e.g. Coumarin, vanillin, heliotropin 3. Sulfuric compounds: e.g. Allyl isothiocyanate = volatile mustard oil 4. Amines e.g. Methylamine (dead fish) 5. Aldehydes e.g. Acetaldehyde (ripe fruits) benzaldehyde (bitter almond) 6. Esters & Lactones (cyclic esters) e.g. Allyl amyl glycolate (pineapple) 1. We smell only short molecules, large ones are no longer volatile and hence not odorous. 2. If molecule is very short, short is also its endurance, it will be a top note like e.g. dimethyl sulfide CSC – the transient smell of truffles 3. If a molecules carry a large net charges they will stick to each other and form hydrogen bonds. This prevents volatility. 4. Most olfactory molecules are made of C, H, O, N, S Perfumes – art, witchcraft or science? Perfumes are mixtures of raw materials: fragrant essential oils and other odorants, musk, fixatives, chemicals + solvents to give the human body, food, detergent, soap, juice, books etc pleasant smells. Why perfumes? Extracts from plants do not really smell like the real flowers but like a weak fake which might resemble but never match nature & original. The perfume maker therefore combines various raw materials to get something that resembles real flowers , or may even create some desirable fantasy smell The first perfume that used pure chemicals was in 1881Fougere Royal or Royal Fern by Parquet: it used lots of coumarin. Coumarin was used before but it was extracted from woodruff, vanilla leaf, & Tonka beans ($ 450/ kg), but not the pure, cheap chemical ($ 10/kg). -
Universidade Federal De Juiz De Fora Instituto De Artes E Design – Iad Curso De Especialização Em Moda, Cultura De Moda E Arte
0 UNIVERSIDADE FEDERAL DE JUIZ DE FORA INSTITUTO DE ARTES E DESIGN – IAD CURSO DE ESPECIALIZAÇÃO EM MODA, CULTURA DE MODA E ARTE Dalva Soares Pereira Magalhães A MODA DO PERFUME: um estudo sobre perfumaria, trajetória e influências Juiz de Fora 2015 1 2 Dalva Soares Pereira Magalhães A MODA DO PERFUME: Um estudo sobre perfumaria, trajetória e influências Trabalho apresentado ao Instituto de Artes e Design da Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora como pré-requisito à obtenção do título de especialista em Moda, Cultura de Moda e Arte. Orientadora: Profª. Dra. Isabela Monken Velloso Juiz de Fora 2015 3 Dalva Soares Pereira Magalhães A MODA DO PERFUME: Um estudo sobre perfumaria, trajetória e influências Trabalho apresentado ao Instituto de Artes e Design da Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora como pré-requisito à obtenção do título de especialista em Moda, Cultura de Moda e Arte. Comissão Examinadora: Profª. Dra. Isabela Monken Velloso (Orientadora) UFJF Profª. Drª. Patrícia Ferreira Moreno Christofoletti UFJF Profº. Ms. Javer Volpini UFJF Juiz de Fora, 30 de novembro de 2015. 4 Dedico este trabalho às pessoas queridas de minha vida: ao Walter, Bernardo, Gopi Devi, e Sophia, As razões de toda a minha alegria. 5 AGRADECIMENTOS Agradeço a todas as pessoas que conheci no decorrer deste curso. Parabenizo à coordenação do IAD (Instituto de Artes e Design), pelo seleto naipe de professores carismáticos, envolvidos, acolhedores, positivos no trato e ao passar tão maravilhosos ensinamentos, informações históricas e culturais diferenciadas. Ao querido João. Não posso deixar de mencionar em particular minha gratidão à professora Isabela Monken Velloso, pelo incentivo ao me orientar neste trabalho. -
Collection Osmothèque Juin 2015
Collection Osmothèque Juin 2015 Nom Marque Année lancement Conc Famille Sous famille Parfumeur 1 Parfumeur 2 Nom Marque Année lancement Conc Famille Sous famille Parfumeur 1 Parfumeur 2 Orchidée Blanche ACORELLE R de Rose ACORELLE 2009 EDP Acqua Di Parma Assoluta ACQUA DI PARMA 2003 EDC Hespéridé Hespéridé Jean-Claude Ellena Bertrand Duchaufour Colonia Intensa ACQUA DI PARMA 2007 EDC Boisé Chypré Alberto Morillas Blu Mediterraneo : Mandorlo Di ACQUA DI PARMA 1999 EDC Ambré Fleuri Boisé Sicilia Fico di Amalfi (Blu Mediterraneo) ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDT Boisé Vert Iris Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDP Floral Chypré Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDP Floral Musqué Françoise Caron Acqua Di Parma Colonia ACQUA DI PARMA 1916 EDC Hespéridé Colonia Intensa (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2007 EDC Hespéridé Cuiré Boisé François Demachy Colonia Leather (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2014 EDCC Aromatique Cuiré François Demachy Colonia Oud (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2012 EDCC Boisé Cuiré François Demachy Gelsomino Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2011 EDP Floral Vert Musqué François Demachy Mirto di Panarea (Blu Mediterraneo) ACQUA DI PARMA 2008 EDT Aromatique Hespéridé François Demachy Profumo (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2008 EDP Floral Chypré François Demachy Rosa Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2014 EDP Floral Musqué François Demachy Adidas ADIDAS EDT Adidas Action ADIDAS 1998 EDT Amore ADRIENNE VITTADINI 2006 EDP Début AIGNER 2013 EDP Ambré Floriental Thomas Fontaine Aknarf AKNARF 1994 EDT Boisé Epicé Bertrand Duchaufour Iquitos ALAIN DELON 1987 -
New Launches News
the scent post A MONTHLY UPDATE ON THE LATEST FRAGRANCE NEWS new launches top new videos tease dreamer | VICTORIA’S SECRET queen sun song rising sun ck one summer NICKI MINAJ LOUIS VUITTON SHISEIDO CALVIN KLEIN LIMITED EDITION NEW FRAGRANCE NEW FRAGRANCE LIMITED EDITION news mon paris parfum floral | YSL hugo boss fragrances and alex israel designs folie à plusieurs glithero designs its licensor coty launched louis vuitton cases for captures the smell of installations for podcast series new unisex fragrances the new museum perfumers exhibition dolce peony | DOLCE & GABBANA FRAGRANCE NEWS the new museum folie à plusieurs captures the smell of the new museum The Berlin- and New York–based perfumery Folie À Plusieurs recently released two new scents that, at first blush, don’t seem too unusual. Aspects n°1 , as clear as water, smells hot and musky; Aspects n°2, an opaque, rose-ochre color, is more floral and metallic. But they differ from typical perfume in that these scents are sold exclusively at the New Museum, and are intended to embody the art institution olfactorily. That is to say, their makers set out to create perfumes that emulate the actual smell of walking through the museum. Eau de musée, if you will. The first scent is said to include notes of, among other things, neon light effect, green, and animalic; the other scent is said to include notes of damp concrete, paper, and cold. The perfumery’s director, Kaya Sorhaindo, envisions for visitors to the New Museum to purchase the scents as they would a catalogue or a poster from the museum gift shop. -
(Chanel) Chypre Floral Bergam
CODE FEMALE INSPIRED BY CATEGORY TOP NOTE MIDDLE NOTE BASE NOTE F1 Miss Elegance Coco Madamoiselle Chypre Floral Bergamot, Orange, Mandarin, Green notes Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the valley Patchouli, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk Moschus (Chanel) F37 Lady Luck Chance (Chanel) Chypre Floral Lemon, Orange, Bergamot,White Pepper Hyacinth, Rose, Iris, Jasmine, Patchouli, Vetiver Woody, Spicy, Ambery, White musk F2 Sugar & Spice Aromatics (Clinique) Chypre Floral Lemon verbena, Clary sage, Chamomille, Aldehydes, Jasmine, Orris root, Orange blossom, Tuberose, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Corriander, Geranium, Rosewood, Bergamot Carnation, Rose, Ylang-ylang Incense F41 Chypre Knowing (Estée Lauder)Chypre Floral Aldehydes, Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Mandarin, Ylang- Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Iris, Gardenia, Mimosa, Patchouli, Cedar, Vetiver, Oak moss, Tonka, Vanilla, ylang, Rosemary Laurel leaves, Carnation, Geranium Musk F31 Yes! Si (Giorgio Armani) Chypre Fruity Blackcurrant buds, Vanilla Freesia, May rose, Patchouli Amberwood, Musks F38 Impulse Rush (Gucci) Chypre Fruity Peach, Plum Jasmine, Iris, Lily, Coriander, Galbanum Woddy, Mossy,Vanilla, Musk F3 Four Seasons Pleasures (Estee Floral Green note, Lilac, Pepper, Cypress, Needles Honeysuckle, Lily of the valley, Cyclamen, Jasmine, Patchouli, Vanilla Lauder) Violet leaves, Celery seed, Rose, Gardenia F4 Heavenly Le Parfum (Ellie Floral Petitgrain, Honey, Green note Orange blossom, Rose Cashmeran wood, Dry woods, Animalic Saab) F5 Forever Beauty (Calvin Klein) Floral -
Write a Scent Poem
WELCOME Dear Educator, We are delighted that you have scheduled a visit to The Art of Scent (1889-2012). When you and your students visit the Museum of Arts and Design, you will be given an informative tour of the exhibition with a museum educator, followed by an inspiring hands-on project that students can take home with them. To make your museum experience more enriching and meaningful, we strongly encourage you to use this packet as a resource, and work with your students in the classroom before and after your museum visit. This packet includes topics for discussion and activities intended to introduce the key themes and concepts of the exhibition. We have suggested writing, storytelling, and art projects so that you can explore ideas from the exhibition in ways that relate directly to your students’ lives and experiences. Please feel free to adapt and build on these materials and to use this packet in any way that you wish. We look forward to welcoming you and your students to the Museum of Arts and Design. Sincerely, Cathleen Lewis Manager of School, Youth and Family Programs [email protected] Lessons written by Petra Pankow, Museum Educator, in collaboration with the Museum of Arts and Design Education Department. Jennifer Kanyo, School, Youth, and Family Intern, developed the timelines. TABLE OF CONTENTS WELCOME 1 THE MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN 3 HELPFUL HINTS FOR YOUR MUSEUM VISIT 4 THE ART OF SCENT (1889-2012) 5 INTRODUCTION 6 THEMES FOR DISCUSSION / RECURRING QUESTIONS 7 PART 1: EXPLORING OUR SENSE OF SMELL 8 PART 2: TOWARDS A LANGUAGE OF SCENT 13 PART 3: AN ART HISTORY OF SCENT 17 PART 4: EXHIBITING THE ART OF SCENT 29 GLOSSARY 37 WEBOGRAPHY 38 2 THE MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN has been functioning as an international resource center for craft, arts, and design since 1956. -
Decadent Perfume: Under the Skin and Through the Page
Decadent Perfume: Under the Skin and through the Page Cheryl Krueger On 1 October 1912, the New York Times ran the provocative report ‘Perfume now Injected: Latest Fad in Paris. Skin Becomes Saturated with Aroma’. Similar articles had been circulating since at least 1896, when the L.A. Times called subcutaneous perfume injection a ‘Queer Fad of French Women’.1 Was it an urban myth? Were Americans overreacting to quirks of continental fashion? Or were French women in fact infusing themselves with perfume? Max Nordau had already deemed seekers of olfactory sensation degenerate (502), warning that pleasure in smell becomes a ‘malady of love […] from which only the degenerate suffer’ (501). Willful puncturing of the skin recalls an algophilic behaviour that one turn-of-the-century practitioner attributed to a ‘degener- ate’s fantasy’ frequently observed in hysterical women: sticking oneself with pins (Clérambault 29–30). The image of penetrating the body with scented liquid suggests fashionable drug fads of the period as well: ingestion and injec- tion of ether, opium eating, morphine shooting parties.2 At least one reporter emphasized the correlation between perfume injection and drug abuse: A Paris physician (says our correspondent) has nipped in the bud a habit which promised to be as dangerous as that of morphine. It appears that a well-known Parisienne had discovered that subcutaneous injections of certain perfumes gave their special fragrance to the skin, and that it was quite possible to exhale the lily, the rose, or any other floral scent. (‘Injec- tions of Perfumes’, New York Times, 1898) This attention to the biological intimacy of perfume injection, its perilous eccentricity and the physical alteration that results, bespeaks a suspicion of perfume abuse that seems to have intensified as fragrance products became more affordable, more available and more feminized in the nineteenth century.