DOCSLIB.ORG

Engineering Perfumes

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text

Load more

ENGINEERING PERFUMES Dissertation presented to the FACULDADE DE ENGENHARIA DA UNIVERSIDADE DO PORTO for the degree of Doctor in Chemical Engineering by Paula Cristina Baldaia M. S. Gomes Supervisors Professor Alírio E. Rodriges Doutora Vera G. Mata Departamento de Engenharia Química Faculdade de Engenharia Universidade do Porto May 2005 i TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF FIGURES viii LIST OF TABLES xv CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Relevance and Motivation 1 1.2 Objectives and Outline 3 CHAPTER 2 PERFUMERY œ A REVIEW 5 2.1 The F&F Industry 6 2.2 The regulatory context 14 2.3 The sense of smell 15 2.4 Classification of perfumery materials 17 2.4.1 The chemistry of flavour and fragrance materials 18 2.4.2 Aroma chemicals 18 2.4.3 Natural materials 21 2.5 Production of aromatic plants in Portugal 25 2.6 Production methods of natural perfumery materials 27 2.6.1 Distillation 28 2.6.2 Expression 30 2.6.3 Solvent Extraction 31 ii 2.6.4 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 33 2.7 Adding value to naturals 34 2.8 Formulation and production of perfumes 35 2.8.1 Perfume structure and evaporation 37 2.8.2 Classification of perfumes 40 2.8.3 Creation of perfume 42 2.8.4 Manufacturing of perfumes 44 2.9 The scientific contribution to perfumery 46 2.9.1 Isolation methods 46 2.9.2 Analytical methods 47 2.9.3 Physical basis 49 2.10 Conclusions 52 2.11 References 53 CHAPTER 3 CHARACTERIZATION OF TWO PORTUGUESE NATURAL 5 MATERIALS 6 3.1 Introduction 57 3.2 Portuguese-grown Geranium-rose (Pelargonium sp) essential 59 oil 3.2.1 Organoleptic characteristics 61 3.2.2 Perfumery and cosmetic applications 62 3.2.3 Review on geranium characterization 63 3.2.4 Materials and methods 64 3.2.5 Results and discussion 67 iii 3.2.6 Conclusions 76 3.3 Cistus (Cistus ladanifer) essential oil growing wild in Portugal 76 3.3.1 Organoleptic characteristics 78 3.3.2 Perfumery and cosmetic applications 78 3.3.3 Review on rockrose 79 3.3.4 Materials and methods 83 3.3.5 Results and discussion 84 3.3.6 Conclusions 90 3.4 References 90 CHAPTER 4 PRODUCTION OF ROSE GERANIUM OIL USING 93 SUPERCRITICAL FLUID EXTRACTION 4.1 Introduction 94 4.1.1 Fundamentals of supercritical technology 94 4.1.2 Description of plant material and its processing before extraction 100 4.1.3 The supercritical extraction process 101 4.1.4 Description of separation methods 103 4.2 Design and construction of a SFE equipment 104 4.2.1 Description of SCRITICAL equipment 106 4.3 Materials and methods 110 4.3.1 Plant material 110 4.3.2 Methods 111 4.4 Results 114 iv 4.4.1 Comparison of SFE extract with products obtained using traditional 114 techniques 4.4.2 Effect of operating parameters 117 4.4.3 Organoleptic description 130 2.5 Conclusions 131 4.6 References 132 CHAPTER 5 REFINING OF NATURAL MATERIALS USING PREPARATIVE LIQUID CHROMATOGRAPHY 135 5.1 Introduction 136 5.1.1 Deterpenation using adsorption 138 5.2 Preparative chromatography 139 5.3 Description of the preparative chromatography model 142 5.3.1 Model equations 142 5.3.2 Definition of operation modes 144 5.3.3 Numerical solution 145 5.3.4 Performance criteria 146 5.4 Case study: Fractionation of lemon oil 147 5.5 Experimental 148 5.5.1 Materials 148 5.5.2 Packing material 149 5.5.3 Description of equipment 149 5.5.4 Operating conditions 150 5.5.5 Samples 151 5.6 Results 151 v 5.6.1 Determination of the isotherm parameters 151 5.6.2 Optimisation of the separation of limonene/citral by simulation 154 5.7 Conclusion 160 5.8 References 160 CHAPTER 6 PERFUME DESIGN WITH SCIENTIFIC BASIS 163 6.1 Introduction: odour value concept 164 6.1.1 Objectives of this work 167 6.2 Case study: simple binary perfume mixture 167 6.2.1 Effect of the solvent on the OV 170 6.2.2 Effect of adding another fragrant note on the OV 173 6.3 Ternary perfume mixtures 175 6.3.1 Perfumery ternary diagram (PTD) concept 176 6.3.2 Perfume test case 177 6.3.3 Effect of the liquid non-ideality on the PTD 179 6.3.4 Effect of ethanol on the PTD 181 6.4 New case studies 183 6.5 Design of a perfume: how to choose the initial mixture? 190 6.6 Conclusions 191 6.7 References 192 CHAPTER 7 EXPERIMENTAL VALIDATION OF PERFUMERY TERNARY 193 DIAGRAM METHODOLOGY 7.1 Introduction 194 7.1.1 Odour threshold concentration 195 vi 7.1.2 Headspace concentration 198 7.2 Experimental 198 7.2.1 Measurement of odour threshold values 198 7.2.2 Headspace analysis 203 7.3 Results 207 7.3.1 Determination of odour threshold values 207 7.3.2 Comparison of headspace analysis methods 209 7.3.3 Binary perfume mixtures 212 7.3.4 Perfumery Ternary Diagrams as a predictive tool 221 7.3.5 Validation of PTD methodology 222 7.4 Conclusions 227 7.5 References 229 CHAPTER 8 CARACTERISATION OF ODOUR PERFORMANCE USING A 230 PERFUME DIFFUSION MODEL 8.1 Introduction 231 8.2 Description of diffusion model 233 8.2.1 Gas phase 233 8.2.2 Liquid phase 234 8.2.3 Boundary and initial conditions 235 8.2.4 Numerical solution 235 8.3 Case study 236 8.3.1 Caracterisation of the case study system 236 8.3.2 Effect of the top note 237 vii 8.3.3 Effect of middle and base notes 241 8.3.4 Evaporation over distance 245 8.3.5 Study of odour performance criteria 247 8.4 Conclusions 250 8.5 References 251 CHAPTER 9 CONCLUSIONS AND FUTURE WORK 252 9.1 Conclusions 252 9.2 Future work 255 APPENDIX A CALCULATION OF THE ACTIVITY COEFFICIENTS USING THE 257 UNIFAC METHOD APPENDIX B CALCULATION OF THE DIFFUSION COEFFICIENTS USING 262 THE FULLER ET AL. METHOD APPENDIX C CALCULATION OF ODOUR THRESHOLD VALUES 264 viii LIST OF FIGURES CHAPTER 2 Figure 2.1 Worldwide geographical distribution of top 10 F&F companies. 6 Figure 2.2 Market share of Flavour & Fragrance Industries in 2003 (source: Leffingwell & 7 Associates, in Leffingwell, 2004). Figure 2.3 The worldwide market of F&Fin 2002 (source: Freedonia Group and C&EN 7 estimates, in Short, 2002). Figure 2.4 Market of F&F industry by category of product in 2002 (source: Freedonia Group 8 and C&EN estimate, in Short, 2002). Figure 2.5 Sales volume of F&F products by application: (a) Fragrances; (b) Flavours (source: 9 Leffingwell & Associates and IAL consultants in Rouhi, 2003a). Figure 2.6 Production of naturals in poor countries: (a) harvest of jasmine flowers by handpick; 11 (b) distillation using rudimentary equipment. Figure 2.7 Cultivation fields of lavender and distillation unit, in Grasse, France (source: a- 12 Newman, 1998; b-Pybus and Sell, 1999). Figure 2.8 Volume of Imports and Exports in Portugal, for 1995 and 2002: (a) Essential oils, 13 Resinoids, Cosmetics and Perfumery products; (b) Perfumes and Eau de Toilettes (source: INEl, 2002). Figure 2.9 The olfaction mechanism (Nobel-prize.org, 2004). 16 Figure 2.10 Some examples of chemical structures of flavour & fragrance materials. 19 Figure 2.11 Capturing new scents by portable headspace analysis (source: Newman, 1998). 20 (Newman, 1998). Figure 2.12 Distribution of fields used for growing aromatic plants (source: INE, 1999). 26 Figure 2.13 Estimative of production per hectare for some aromatic plants with viability of being 27 cultivated in Portugal (source: INETI, 1982). Figure 2.14 Industrial methods used to produce natural materials. 28 Figure 2.15 Distillation process for producing essential oils. 29 Figure 2.16 Expression process to produce citrus essential oils. 31 Figure 2.17 Process of extraction with organic solvents to produce natural extracts (source: 32 Newman, 1998). Figure 2.18 Industrial plant for supercritical fluid extraction (Flavex,Germany). 34 Figure 2.19 Triangular structure of a perfume and relation between top, middle and base notes 39 for a perfume formulation used in the concentration of 12% to 18% in alcohol (Calkin and Jellinek, 1994). Figure 2.20 Odour profile during evaporation of a perfume with a triangular structure. 39 Figure 2.21 Classification of fragrances according to Poucher (1955). 42 ix Figure 2.22 Polarity of different kinds of fragrant compounds and the relation with other 51 physical properties (Calkin and Jellinek, 1994). CHAPTER 3 Figure 3.1 Aromatic garden in Fundação de Serralves, Porto (Portugal). 57 Figure 3.2 Aromatic garden created within this work, Vila da Feira (Portugal). 57 Figure 3.3 Pilot planting of geranium, Oliveira do Douro e Miramar (Portugal). 57 Figure 3.4 Rose-geranium plant (Pelargonium graveolens) and the trichomes that contain the 58 essential oil. Figure 3.5 Worldwide production and imports of geranium oil (source: Dermarne, 2002). 59 Figure 3.6 Composition of two perfumes with geranium note: (a) men‘s fragrance, Hugo, Hugo 61 Boss(1995); (b) women‘s fragrance, Paris, YSL (1983). Figure 3.7 Leaves of rose geranium fresh plant : (a) green;(b) yellow. 63 Figure 3.8 Equipment used for isolating the essential oil: (a) Clevenger apparatus;(b) Collection 64 of essential oil; (c) rotary evaporator under reduced pressure. Figure 3.9 Gas chromatography equipment Varian CP-3800, with FID (Varian) and MS 65 (Saturn2000) detectors. Figure 3.10 GC/MS chromatogram of Portuguese-grown geranium oil obtained from fresh green 67 foliage of Pelargonium sp.
Recommended publications
  • Effect of Different Extraction Methods on Yield and Quality of Essential Oil from Four Rosa Species

    Effect of Different Extraction Methods on Yield and Quality of Essential Oil from Four Rosa Species

    Floriculture and Ornamental Biotechnology ©2007 Global Science Books Effect of Different Extraction Methods on Yield and Quality of Essential Oil from Four Rosa Species Adnan Younis1* • Muhammad Aslam Khan1 • Asif Ali Khan2 • Atif Riaz1 • M. Aslam Pervez1 1 Institute of Horticultural Sciences, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan 2 Department of Plant Breeding and Genetics, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan Corresponding author : * [email protected] ABSTRACT In the present study rose oil was extracted from the petals of four Rosa species i.e. R. damascena, R. centifolia, R. borboniana and Rosa 'Gruss an Teplitz' through solvent extraction through hexane, solvent extraction through ether and steam distillation. R. damascena yielded (0.145%) of absolute oil, R. centifolia yielded 0.11% whereas R. 'Gruss an Teplitz' yielded the least (0.035%) absolute oil. Solvent extraction through hexane yielded more absolute oil (0.11%) than steam distillation (0.075%) and solvent extraction (0.07%) through ether on petal weight basis. Gas-chromatography of the rose oil was carried out for the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the oil constituents. Major compounds identified were citronellol, methyl eugenol, geraniol, geranyl acetate, phenyl ethyl alcohol, linalool, benzaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, rhodinyl acetate, citronellyl acetate, benzyl acetate and phenyl ethyl formate. Both techniques (solvent extraction and steam distillation) yielded oil with differences in the percentage composition of each component, but solvent extraction through hexane proved better (i.e. higher yield and more components) than steam distillation for extraction of essential oil from roses. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Keywords: citronellol, essential oil composition, Rosa centifolia, solvent extraction, steam distillation INTRODUCTION essential oil, which is slowly liberated from the plant material (Durst and Gokel 1987; Wilson 1995).
  • Male Fragrances That Evoke a Feral Growl, Full-Blown Tempests Or The

    Male Fragrances That Evoke a Feral Growl, Full-Blown Tempests Or The

    A WHIFF OF DANGER Male fragrances that evoke a feral growl, full-blown tempests or the swaggering brio of ancient Rome are a bullseye for those who embrace their masculinity, says Lucia van der Post. Photograph by Omer Knaz he first scent I ever truly fell in love with was Schiaparelli’s Shocking, made by the great Jean Carles, and I came across it because my father wore it. I still remember the shock of pleasure when that first light floral note hit me, then the sense of surprise as the herbs, sandalwood and honey began to emerge, and finally it became sexier and more earthy as the oakmoss and what I now know Tto be civet took over. I remember, too, old-fashioned child that I was, that I thought it strange that my markedly heterosexual father wore a scent that seemed so voluptuous and so clearly aimed at women. Today, nobody would think anything of it. Speak to connoisseurs of perfume and as one they reject the notion of male and female scents. As Roja Dove, éminence grise of the perfume world, puts it: “For years floral notes were associated with feminine perfumes and – since men were considered strutting, predatory things – woody, mossy, earthy materials were linked with masculine ones, but the boundaries nowadays have become much more blurred. A rose, after all, has neither a penis nor a vagina – a rose on a man is a masculine rose, a rose on a woman is a feminine rose.” Violet, a note that one would have thought was largely feminine, was much beloved by Italian dandies in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and it was an overdose of violet that made Geoffrey Beene’s Grey Flannel (£45 for 60ml EDT, to which much-respected perfume scholar Luca Turin awards five stars, calling it “a masterpiece”) such a success when it was launched in Clockwise from far left: 1975.
  • Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification

    Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification

    Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification Miguel A. Teixeira, Oscar Rodríguez, Paula Gomes, Vera Mata, Alírio E. Rodrigues Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering (LSRE) Associate Laboratory Department of Chemical Engineering Faculty of Engineering of University of Porto Porto, Portugal P. Gomes and V. Mata are currently at i-sensis company S. João da Madeira, Portugal AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier The Boulevard, Langford Lane, Kidlington, Oxford, OX5 1GB, UK 225 Wyman Street, Waltham, MA 02451, USA First published 2013 Copyright r 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangement with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein). Notices Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary. Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods, compounds, or experiments described herein.
  • Copyright 2015 Agilex Fragrances A

    Copyright 2015 Agilex Fragrances A

    Fragrance Glossary 2015 Copyright 2015 Agilex Fragrances A Absolute Concentrated, highly aromatic oily mixtures extracted from plants. The method by which they are extracted affects the odor of the absolute. Accord A blend of materials targeting a specific odor or odor type that can be used as the basis of a fragrance or added to build complexity. Ambergris A biologic substance expelled from the digestive tract of the sperm whale. Upon aging on the open water, exposed to sun and salt, it develops a unique warm, balsamic odor. It is highly prized for this odor and its fixative properties, but is rarely used. Amber Amber, as it is used in perfumery, is not related to the fossilized resin of the same name. A perfumers Amber is an accord, usually based on labdanum, which imparts a warm, sensual, lightly sweet, balsamic odor. Animalic An odor group used to describe the sharp, tangy, sensual, and warm characteristics of the extracts made from certain animals: civet, beaver, musk deer and sperm whale. With the exception of the Sperm Whale, harvesting the materials results in the death of the animal. To ease consumer sensibilities a variety of similar synthetic chemicals have been developed. Aromatic Traditionally used to describe the very large group of plants and herbs used as flavorings in various cuisines. A few examples are: Basil, Anise, Sage, Dill, Lemongrass, Spearmint. B Balsam A resin or sap which forms on various trees and shrubs such as myrrh and evergreens. Balsamic odor classification is warm, rich, and slightly sweet. Base The foundation of a fragrance, the base delivers the undertones that modify and enhance the layers above it, and becomes more evident as the fragrance is worn.
  • Herbs, Spices and Essential Oils

    Herbs, Spices and Essential Oils

    Printed in Austria V.05-91153—March 2006—300 Herbs, spices and essential oils Post-harvest operations in developing countries UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna International Centre, P.O. Box 300, 1400 Vienna, Austria Telephone: (+43-1) 26026-0, Fax: (+43-1) 26926-69 UNITED NATIONS FOOD AND AGRICULTURE E-mail: [email protected], Internet: http://www.unido.org INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION OF THE ORGANIZATION UNITED NATIONS © UNIDO and FAO 2005 — First published 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduction and dissemination of material in this information product for educational or other non-commercial purposes are authorized without any prior written permission from the copyright holders provided the source is fully acknowledged. Reproduction of material in this information product for resale or other commercial purposes is prohibited without written permission of the copyright holders. Applications for such permission should be addressed to: - the Director, Agro-Industries and Sectoral Support Branch, UNIDO, Vienna International Centre, P.O. Box 300, 1400 Vienna, Austria or by e-mail to [email protected] - the Chief, Publishing Management Service, Information Division, FAO, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00100 Rome, Italy or by e-mail to [email protected] The designations employed and the presentation of material in this information product do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization or of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal or development status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
  • University of Oklahoma Graduate College

    University of Oklahoma Graduate College

    UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA GRADUATE COLLEGE GEOGRAPHIES OF KNOWLEDGE IN THE INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY A DISSERTATION SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE FACULTY in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY By BODO KUBARTZ Norman, Oklahoma 2009 GEOGRAPHIES OF KNOWLEDGE IN THE INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY A DISSERTATION APPROVED FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF GEOGRAPHY BY ___________________________ Dr. Fred Shelley, Co-Chair ___________________________ Dr. Bret Wallach, Co-Chair ___________________________ Dr. Robert Cox ___________________________ Dr. Karl Offen ___________________________ Dr. Darren Purcell ___________________________ Dr. Laurel Smith ___________________________ Dr. Andrew Wood © Copyright by BODO KUBARTZ 2009 All Rights Reserved. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The ‘discovery of the world’ has been a stereotypical focus of human geography. However, the research helped me to discover a new world for myself. The fragrance industry delineates a rich landscape of sensorial stimulations. I appreciated not only the experience of smelling perfumes in different environments and the ‘look behind the scenes’ but the diversity of approaches to perfumery in this artistic industry. Therefore, my first ‘thank you’ goes to the industry experts that spend their precious time with me and opened their doors for me in France, Germany, and the United States. Thank you very much for introducing me to a world that you experience, develop, and change every day. Second, a dissertation is a long journey. This one has seen different companions until it came into being. It developed quite a bit over time. My friends in the United States and in Germany contributed through their critique, mental support, active interest, questions, guidance, and feedback. Thus, the second ‘thank you’ goes to all companions.
  • Nez, La Revue Olfactive

    Nez, La Revue Olfactive

    5/15/2017 The Art and Olfaction Awards à Berlin, les nouveaux horizons de l'art olfactif - Nez, la revue olfactive The Art and Olfaction Awards in Berlin, the new horizons of art olfactory Jeanne Doré 2 reviews (http://www.nez-larevue.fr/notre-actu/the-art-and-olfaction-awards-a-berlin-nouveaux-horizons-de-lart-olfactif/#comments) 12 May 2017 Berlin is a human, warm and inspiring city. It is for this reason that Saskia Wilson-Brown, founder of the (http://artandolfaction.com/) Los Angeles-based Institute of Art & Olfaction (http://artandolfaction.com/) , and Awards (http://www.artandolfactionawards.org/2017awards/) of the same name, decided that the fourth award ceremony will be held this year in this city. Because an event that declares itself international and which wishes to bring together the authors of artistic perfumery from all over the world could not really be conned to the west coast of the United States and we were the rst to be delighted to be able to attend rst time. Thursday 4 May Our ight Paris Orly-Berlin Schönefeld is already olfactory, invaded by the body uids swollen with hormones of a class of high school students as excited and noisy as it is sparkling. On the Alexander Platz U-Bahn quay, it is a currywurst aroma that welcomes us, and reminds us that in Berlin one can calm its hunger at any time, anywhere. On arrival in Mitte, the city is bathed by a cold, tight drizzle, which does not prevent us from going to dinner in a Vietnamese canteen of the district with the scents of phở, frankincense and urinal.
  • GC-MS Composition and Olfactory Profile of Concretes from the Flowers of Four Nicotiana Species

    GC-MS Composition and Olfactory Profile of Concretes from the Flowers of Four Nicotiana Species

    molecules Article GC-MS Composition and Olfactory Profile of Concretes from the Flowers of Four Nicotiana Species Venelina Popova 1 , Tanya Ivanova 1, Albena Stoyanova 1, Violeta Nikolova 2, Tsveta Hristeva 2 and Valtcho D. Zheljazkov 3,* 1 Department of Tobacco, Sugar, Vegetable and Essential Oils, University of Food Technologies, 4002 Plovdiv, Bulgaria; [email protected] (V.P.); [email protected] (T.I.); [email protected] (A.S.) 2 Tobacco and Tobacco Products Institute–Bulgarian Agricultural Academy, 4108 Markovo, Bulgaria; [email protected] (V.N.); [email protected] (T.H.) 3 Department of Crop and Soil Science, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331, USA * Correspondence: [email protected] Academic Editor: Daniela Rigano Received: 22 May 2020; Accepted: 1 June 2020; Published: 4 June 2020 Abstract: The genus Nicotiana (Solanaceae) includes over 70 species, with a long history of traditional use; many of them are nowadays used in bioengineering, biosynthesis, molecular biology, and other studies, while common tobacco, N. tabacum L., is one of the most economically important industrial crops worldwide. Although Nicotiana species have been extensively investigated, relatively less research has focused on flowers, especially research related to obtaining aromatic products for cosmetic and perfumery use. On the other hand, there is evidence that Nicotiana flowers accumulate various secondary metabolites with a distinct aroma and biological activities, and the flowers represent a biomass available in sufficient quantities. Therefore, this study aimed to determinate the chemical composition (by GC-MS) and the olfactory profiles of a specific type of natural aromatic product (concrete), obtained from the flowers of four Nicotiana species, in a direct comparison between them.
  • The Emperor's New Theory

    The Emperor's New Theory

    book review Alas, nouveau vibration theory fails to The Emperor’s new theory take the world by storm. Their interest piqued by his fragrance reviews, Turin is The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, approached by the “Big Boys”, the multina- tional companies that create and supply Obsession, and the Last Mystery of the Senses perfume for many of the world’s most famous brands. They offer him a tantaliz- by Chandler Burr ing sniff of their vast smell libraries, Random House, New York, 2002 $24.95 glimpses of proprietary databases, and invi- hardcover, pp 318 tations to posh parties. They flirt, but ulti- ISBN 0-375-50797-3 mately send him off, along with the theory he rode in on. To Burr, this proves that the Reviewed by Avery N. Gilbert Big Boys are threatened: they believe Turin’s theory is powerful enough to loosen their oligarchic grip on the market. At the same time, Turin is sandbagged I hear the sound of a gentle word ting it published. But this giddy and over- by the entrenched academic establishment. On the wind that lifts her perfume through wrought account by Chandler Burr is more His attempt to publish the theory in a lead- the air than a standard scientific biography; it’s ing British scientific journal is (gasp!) reject- I’m pickin’ up good vibrations part hagiography and part legal brief. ed. This deliberate refusal to acknowledge She’s giving me excitations Burr portrays Turin as a Goethe-like the brilliance of Turin’s paper is, according polymath, a brilliant, intellectually rest- to Burr, clear evidence of “scientific cor- —The Beach Boys, Good Vibrations, 1966 less, self-educated aesthete.
  • FEMA GRAS Assessment of Natural Flavor Complexes: Lavender, Guaiac Coriander-Derived and Related Flavoring Ingredients

    FEMA GRAS Assessment of Natural Flavor Complexes: Lavender, Guaiac Coriander-Derived and Related Flavoring Ingredients

    Food and Chemical Toxicology 145 (2020) 111584 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Food and Chemical Toxicology journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/foodchemtox FEMA GRAS assessment of natural flavor complexes: Lavender, Guaiac Coriander-derived and related flavoring ingredients Shoji Fukushima, M.D., Ph.D. a, Samuel M. Cohen, M.D., Ph.D. b, Gerhard Eisenbrand, Ph.D. d, Nigel J. Gooderham, Ph.D. e, F. Peter Guengerich, Ph.D. f, Stephen S. Hecht, Ph.D. g, Ivonne M.C. M. Rietjens, Ph.D., Professor of Toxicology c, Thomas J. Rosol, DVM, PhD, MBA h, Jeanne M. Davidsen, Ph.D. i, Christie L. Harman, MPH i, Vivian Lu i, Sean V. Taylor, Ph.D. i,* a Japan Bioassay Research Center ,2445 Hirasawa, Hadano, Kanagawa 257-0015, Japan b Havlik–Wall Professor of Oncology, Dept. of Pathology and Microbiology, University of Nebraska Medical Center., 983135 Nebraska Medical Center, Omaha, NE 68198-3135, USA c Division of Toxicology, Wageningen University, Stippeneng 4, 6708 WE Wageningen, The Netherlands d Senior Research Professor of Food Chemistry & Toxicology, University of Kaiserslautern (Retired), Kühler Grund 48/1, 69126 Heidelberg, Germany e Dept. of Metabolism, Digestion and Reproduction, Imperial College London, Sir Alexander Fleming Building, London SW7 2AZ, United Kingdom f Tadashi Inagami Professor of Biochemistry, Dept. of Biochemistry, Vanderbilt University School of Medicine, Nashville, TN 37232-0146, USA g Wallin Professor of Cancer Prevention, Masonic Cancer Center, Dept. of Laboratory Medicine and Pathology, University of Minnesota, MMC 806, 420 Delaware St., S. E., Minneapolis, MN 55455, USA h Department of Biomedical Sciences, Heritage College of Osteopathic Medicine, Ohio University, 1 Ohio University, Athens, OH 45701, USA i Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association, 1101 17th Street NW, Suite 700, Washington, DC 20036, USA ABSTRACT In 2015, the Expert Panel of the Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) initiated a program for the re-evaluation of the safety of over 250 natural flavor complexes (NFCs) used as flavor ingredients.
  • About SP PRIVATE PERFUME with MIGUEL MATOS @ the PERFUME GUIDE by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez

    About SP PRIVATE PERFUME with MIGUEL MATOS @ the PERFUME GUIDE by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez

    About SP PRIVATE PERFUME WITH MIGUEL MATOS @ THE PERFUME GUIDE by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. As owner of the brand SP PARFUMS and perfumer for SP PRIVATE PERFUME WITH MIGUEL MATOS I am disappointed with the "Art of judging" regarding "The Perfume Guide 2018" by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. It's a fact, that objective parameter should be the basement for any kind of criticism. Sadly I can't find this in the reviews and ratings for SP PRIVATE PERFUME WITH MIGUEL MATOS. The words the authors used are full of personal aggression and sarcasm against Miguel Matos. I miss any kind of respect !I don't know the reason for that 'personal hate' against Miguel. Miguel and me did these perfumes to honour his Portuguese roots. And, respectfully, I don't want to have perfumes I have created as tools ( or weapons) for a personal revenge ( or fight) ! At last the authors of the book gave SUNTANGLAM, LISBON BLUES and FUNFAIR bashing 1 star ratings. Just to give you an impression, the community at FRAGRANTICA voted : SUNTANGLAM 4,05 (from 5) with 25 votes LISBON BLUES 3,08 (from 5) with 12 votes FUNFAIR. 3,13 (from 5) with 16 votes. In their reviews the authors of the book gave no information regarding the background of the perfumes or a serious description of their character and structure to explain their ratings. In May 2016 Luca Turin published a positive review of the ESSENTIAL COLLECTION / SP PARFUMS in his perfumeblog 'perfumesilove'. But in the 2018 Guide sadly no other perfume by SP PARFUMS was reviewed.
  • Socio-Economic Impact Study of the Naturals Rose

    Socio-Economic Impact Study of the Naturals Rose

    8 WORLD WORLD 9 SOCIO-ECONOMIC IMPACT STUDY OF THE NATURALS ROSE THIS REPORT IS PART OF A SERIES OF REPORTS BEING PRODUCED BY THE IFEAT SOCIO-ECONOMIC SUB-COMMITTEE ON THE IMPORTANCE OF SPECIFIC NATURALS TO THE LIVELIHOODS OF THOSE INVOLVED IN THEIR PRODUCTION. INTRODUCTION carried out by family farms without high-income expectation. communist system in +/- 1992 the government centralised PRODUCTION IN OTHER COUNTRIES There are four major species of rose plants which are Although because of all these challenges, rose oil production Bulgarska Rosa organisation splintered into numerous privately Historically, Iran may be one of the first producers of rose oil, cultivated for industrial applications: still exists because it is a traditional local product and a part of held companies. There is some concern that the quality/yields though rose water is their signature product. This precious rose cultural heritage, and provides a certain income to its producers,” may have deteriorated since this time; the state-run organisations water, so culturally important to this country, was first produced 1 Rosa Damascena Miller • Rosa Centifolia • Givag and Kant clearly state in their 2010 report . At that time, closely controlled the nursery feed-stock and all aspects of by the Persian physician, Avicennia, in the 10th century. Damask there were some 10,000 families involved in the production of production which resulted in a consistent quality from all of the the lesser white coloured Rosa Alba • Rose Rugosa. Rose is commonly called the Flower of the Prophet Mohammed ca.1,400 kg of oil. Most rose flower production comes from growing regions.