ISSUE #47 MARCH 26, 2021

A Publication of WWD

ONEAssessing YEAR COVID's LATER Impact THE BUZZ 2 MARCH 26, 2021 Beauty Bulletin

SK-II will release as “leftover” in Chinese culture. eight original The company's #ChangeDestiny films through its newly formed campaigns over the years also include By the SK-II Studio. “The Expiry Date,” “Meet Me Halfway” and its “Timelines” docuseries, Numbers: created in partnership with Katie Couric. Trendalytics' “All of these stories have been about the limitations that society has placed Top 10 on women, forcing them to make choices that they don't necessarily Beauty want to make,” Seth said. “We felt the need to make this brand purpose Trends much more integral. Over the last year, Data from Trendalytics across the world, a lot of unfortunate points to a return to things have been said and done. We normalcy by summer. felt that SK-II needs to take a stronger stance and have a point of view and be BY JAMES MANSO that force for good.” CONSUMERS ARE getting ready Along with its studio, SK-II has set to show their faces to the outside up a #ChangeDestiny fund, to which it world — masked or otherwise. will contribute $1 per view of its films. Trendalytics' top March trends Total contributions will be capped at point to the masses anticipating $500,000, with proceeds benefiting a return to normalcy, perhaps organizations with which SK-II has a by this summer. relationship. “People are trying to prepare Asked for the company's stance themselves for the fact that on the rise in global anti-Asian hate they’ll have to be appropriate for SK-II to Release Original Films crimes since the onset of COVID-19, human consumption sometime YoeGin Chang, SK-II Global's senior soon,” said Cece Lee Arnold, chief executive officer of Trendalytics. brand director, said the company Via New Studio Division “It's like, 'We’re very close to stands for our Asian, Pan-Asian, “ the end of this. SK-II is investing in original last year after being diagnosed with Pacific Islander employees partners, I should probably touch up my storytelling. leukemia in February 2019. friends and family.” roots or do my nails.'” The company has formed SK-II “At SK-II, we've always believed in “The work that we're doing with SK-II The list is still reflective of some Studio, a global film studio division storytelling and that's been a core Studio, and also the work that we lingering trends from the height and content hub, through which it will part of how we've been engaging have been doing as a brand for the of the pandemic, like an emphasis release eight original films this year. with our target audiences across last seven years, since 2014, has on . Growing eye makeup Based in Singapore, the division is the world,” said Sandeep Seth, chief always been around elevating stories trends suggest prolonged mask made up of about 50 employees. executive officer of Global SK-II. [of] courageous women overcoming usage. “This list has all the eye trends, because masks probably SK-II Studio's first film, “The Center SK-II has released a number of limitations and featuring Asian faces aren’t going way that soon,” Lane, will be released on March 29. notable short film campaigns, such as in our work,” Chang said. “We want to ” Lee Arnold said. Here, its 2016 “Marriage Market Takeover,” continue doing that and SK-II Studios Directed by Hirokazu Koreeda, the film Trendalytics' top 10 trends is one definite way of doing that. follows Japanese swimmer Ikee Rikako, which highlighted how unmarried ” for March, as ranked by who returned to competitive swimming women of a certain age are labeled —Alexa Tietjen year-over-year search growth.

TOP 10 TRENDS Cassandra Grey Pivots Amid Store Closure business and shoppers turning to e-commerce, Grey has had to pivot. 1. hydrocolloid patches As the world has gone fully +1,019 percent digital, so has Grey, who now 2. mask stick offers #VioletAtYourService, a +961 percent personal shopping resource for 3. headband wig Tk Caption customers to use via text. She’s +837 percent also producing content through 4. refillable deodorant celebrity profiles in editorial shoots +487 percent as part of a series titled “Screen 5. bloat supplement Tests.” Violet Grey’s latest subject +483 percent is actress Emma Roberts. 6. quercetin As a way to tie-in products +384 percent alongside the stories, Grey has kicked off “Shop Their Bag,” which lists a 7. niacinamide serum Cassandra Grey celebrity's beauty items of choice in +338 percent ¬ Cassandra Grey has closed shopping experience with a a shoppable page on violetgrey.com. 8. rice water the doors of her Violet Grey shop decor that’s reminiscent of an She has also introduced a short-form +332 percent and turned it into a temporary old-world boudoir, has been on video series on the site called “Behind 9. smudged eyeliner work space. trendy Melrose Place in West the Counter,” which is “similar to the +255 percent The luxury boutique, an Hollywood, Calif., since 2014. But likes of QVC and HSN,” according to 10. floating eyeliner intimate and highly curated with COVID-19 disrupting the retail the company. —Ryma Chikhoune +240 percent POWERED BY:

UNILEVER PRESTIGE AND WWD PARTNER TO LAUNCH: Project Connect—Bridging the Digital Divide The grant program presents opportunities for innovative entrepreneurs whose products and services will advance the retail industry.

nilever Prestige and “We want to restore confidence in the WWD have announ- industry,” said Smith. “Confidence that ced a new initiative to there are technologies and innovations showcase next-gener- that can rebuild the marketplace and pro- ation business lead- vide advancements for future success. This ers whose products, program is all about purpose and empow- services and solutions ering the next generation of entrepreneurs Uprovide industry advancements that gives us the greatest purpose of all.” involve the connection between technol- Eligible entrepreneurs who wish to ogy and the human touch. apply for the Project Connect grant must COVID-19 has undoubtedly caused have the following. immense acceleration in technology in every aspect of life including everyday Vasiliki Petrou, • A future-focused mindset that interactions – proving that in a post-pan- Executive Vice Amanda Smith, prioritizes pandemic rebuilding demic world, technology and virtual com- President of President, Fairchild across industries. munication will be core elements. Though Unilever Prestige Fashion Media • A business plan that serves to while technology continues to allow prog- humanize technology for the ress amid disruption and enable near-con- of connection across all industries. next generation of consumers stant communication, research shows that “Having spent my career raising aware- and entrepreneurs across all 50 percent of people are reporting feeling ness of future focused brands, I’m excited industries including beauty, tech, isolated this year, compared to 23 percent to find new and innovative entrepre- fashion, CPG, etc. just two years ago. To truly serve neurs whose business models push the • Products or services that demon- With Project Connect, Unilever our consumers boundaries of what we’re used to,” said strate humanity with technology Prestige and WWD aim to harness com- Vasiliki Petrou, Executive Vice President and virtual communication by bined expertise and power of storytelling now and in the of Unilever Prestige. “Brands with pas- associating them with human to promote a human-centered approach sion and purpose tackle a mission bigger touch through virtual means. that highlights the “heart and soul” future, we need than life, and there’s no escaping that dig- • Social impact aligned with efforts behind technology and help bridge the to enrich that ital experiences have been the future for that promote an inclusive plat- digital divide. The technology product or a long time now. But COVID has really form and progressing market- solution to be showcased in this program space at the expedited that process, and personally for place values within the business. will serve as a way to keep us connected me, coming from brands where human • Industry-wide implications even as the pandemic moves us into a intersection touch and face-to-face interactions are so through scalable technology that more isolated state. vital to the customer experience, it’s felt help to drive consumer adoption “As we look forward to a post- of our digital like there is a missing piece. To truly serve of technology solutions and COVID-19 world, we need to pivot and lives and our our consumers now and in the future, we professionals to adapt to a future rely on innovative technology more than need to enrich that space at the intersec- marketplace. ever,” said Amanda Smith, president of need for human tion of our digital lives and our need for Fairchild Media. “There is nothing more human connection.” Applications must be submitted by exciting for WWD then partnering with connection.” Eligible entrepreneurs will be asked April 30, 2021 and will be reviewed by a Unilever Prestige to power our portfo- Vasiliki Petrou, to submit an application to be overseen full panel of industry experts including lios with purpose and celebrate trail- Executive Vice President of by a panel of industry experts, including Amanda Smith and Vasiliki Petrou. blazers who are the next generation of Unilever Prestige members of the WWD and Unilever business leaders.” Prestige executive teams. The winning By scaling innovations in technology entrepreneur(s) will be presented with All interested in applying for that will create a bridge to the future, grant funding and a robust prize pack- the “Project Connect – Bridging across industries, and aid people around nections and partnerships. Together, age of resources that include mentorship, the Digital Divide” grant: the world in engaging today’s tech with a unified goal to bridge the digital opportunities to help scale the business, driven market, a post-pandemic world divide with human touch, WWD and and exposure of your brand to new indus- APPLY HERE will require collaboration and new con- Unilever Prestige will guide a journey tries and audiences.

The pandemic caused Organizers said an immense acceleration innovations in in technology in every technology will create aspect of life including “a bridge to the future.” everyday interactions. NEWS FEED 4 MARCH 26, 2021

Sustainability Key Topic at WWD China's Beauty Inc Awards Speakers also addressed the buying habits of skin care loving Gen Z consumers. BY JENNY B. FINE

KEY LEADERS FROM China’s

Sephora Collection is a bestselling beauty industry came together at Mohit Dhanjal brand for the retailer in . WWD China’s second annual Beauty Inc Awards ceremony and Beauty for Future Summit in Shanghai How India Aims to Reach the last month to discuss the future of beauty there. Sustainability was a key topic, as guests including Changing Indian Beauty Consumer Zhuang Mudi, secretary of the party CEO Mohit Dhanjal has identified key pockets of opportunity. committee of Fengxian District, Rene “ ” Co, chief sustainability officer of P&G BY MAYU SAINI Greater China, and Jenny Chen from the Jala Group addressed the “new — As the pandemic Indian beauty market, with retailers of the fastest categories to recover.” normal in the post-COVID-19” era as turned a corner in India, beauty like Nykaa and Shoppers Stop Other growing categories include the green industry develops. sales have seen recovery, along with increasingly targeting the category. bath and body and men’s products. “Sustainability is not about some change in direction. Mohit Dhanjal, though, is firmly focused Dhanjal said consumer attention environmental protection only,” said Dhanjal, who took over as chief on the fast-changing $16 billion to Indian brands has also been Lena Yang, chief executive officer executive officer of Sephora India beauty market in India, particularly increasing. “Recently we introduced of WWD China. “We should think on Jan. 1 in a changing of the guard on what he describes as “pockets of Simply Nam, a makeup cleaner, about how to achieve sustainability for the biggest international beauty opportunity.” which is a reusable towel to clean in commerce, humanities, culture retailer in India after five years, has As for one of the biggest? off makeup. It has a low carbon and the environment.” very quickly taken the reins of this “Skin care,” Dhanjal said, footprint because it is reusable Mudi spoke of the commitments changing market. unequivocally. for up to 90 times. We launched that the Fengxian government has “Sephora has done a very good Pre-COVID-19, makeup had taken it mid-December and it is doing enacted to help facilitate companies job in regard to the brand mix the lead at Sephora India, but the really well.” Other key Indian brands doing business in the region, while in India, the categories that we balance is changing. “The pandemic include and Kama, Co shared insights about P&G’s work in, to identify the gaps in the continues to bring up protection and launching this summer. sustainability efforts and how the Indian retail space, whether it is sanitization issues. People are going In terms of international brands, company is addressing packaging online or offline. The fundamentals to continue to protect themselves Benefit, a Sephora exclusive in India, issues in a time of unprecedented are there,” Dhanjal said, in an and be more hygienic. There is also and Dior have been top performers, e-commerce activity. exclusive interview with Beauty Inc. a shift to technology-led skin care, as has Sephora’s private label That's why Procter & Gamble “Now we have to ensure that this be it ingredients or application,” products. has innovated their packaging pandemic — which has caused so Dhanjal said. “Our differentiator is the Sephora materials and launched degradable, much disruption — also gives us The other major change isn’t what label, which is present across all the environment-friendly packaging the chance to look at the changing consumers are buying, but how. categories of the beauty segment. that can protect products during market. I’m not looking at a shift in Dhanjal said consumers in India are It is by far our largest brand,” said transportation and be recycled strategy, but more at the pockets of in the “the early transition curve” of Dhanjal. “This is amply supported afterwards. P&G has also made the opportunities that the pandemic has experimenting with buying beauty by more than 30 of our Sephora- packaging patent available for the raised and looking at it as a way to online. Normally, experimentation exclusive brands that add vibrancy entire industry in the hope that all satisfy changing consumer needs.” took place in physical stores in and freshness to our various practitioners would act together to Sephora India opened in 2015 India. But all of the Sephora doors categories.” achieve sustainable development of with a license for Bengaluru-based are in malls, and the 2020 lockdown Dhanjal pointed out that the the beauty industry. Arvind Fashions Ltd., which has had a significant impact. beauty consumption in India was Sun Xiaocheng from CBNData brought a host of global brands to Stores are starting to reopen, still very low, especially compared shared insights from the company’s India including Tommy Hilfiger with 95 percent reopened by mid- to Southeast Asian and other recent Gen Z Beauty Report. and Calvin Klein, but has never a January and single-digit growth global markets, but said the Among the key learnings: Gen Z presence in beauty. It was Sephora’s posted for February. Dhanjal expects rapidly growing middle class will females from tier 1 and 2 cities third partnership in the country the online behavior to become part be eager to try new products and are the main online shoppers for in as many years, and has grown of a bigger trend, with the growth of innovations. “We can expect that skin care, with a much higher than to 24 stores. technology and the work put in by the large set of consumers who are average spending and growth rate This is also Dhanjal’s first foray retailers and brands. now experimenting with beauty than from tier 3 cities and below. into beauty. Earlier, he was business Fragrance sales were surprisingly will only increase substantially,” he The report also found that Gen head of textile manufacturer and strong online, for example. “A lot of said, predicting double-digit growth Z has started to adopt skin care retailer Raymond in India, and fragrance brands ran very attractive in the coming years. “We know routines at a much younger age has also worked with multisector offers, so that got a lot of people a that awareness combined with the than previous generations, and that industries. He takes over at a time chance to try them for the first time,” increasing disposable income will the price they are willing to pay for of growing competition in the said Dhanjal. “Fragrance has been one lead to greater sales.” products has increased every year. NEWS FEED 5 MARCH 26, 2021

Intercos Teams With Italian University for Joint Lab The leading manufacturer and the University of Milano-Bicocca will join efforts in conducting scientific researches to develop new solutions for beauty. BY SANDRA SALIBIAN

MILAN — In an unprecedented managed to do that,” said Ferrari, idea and product in the cosmetics move in the Italian beauty landscape, underscoring that more than 1,000 industry, as we know all the brands leading cosmetics manufacturer Intercos employees work in R&D. and have privileged relationships Intercos Group has inked a five- “We have always worked in-house. with key companies,” Ferrari said. year agreement with the University We know that research and innovation For the university's dean Giovanna of Milano-Bicocca to team up in are things you can't buy: they are Iannantuoni, the collaboration could conducting scientific research the result of years of work, and you also provide key learning helping the on formulations and sustainable have to create them from the inside,” institution in improving its courses processes aimed at developing continued Ferrari, highlighting that to match the real demands of the innovative beauty products. Intercos will specifically bring to the industry. A shared laboratory hosting collaboration its know-how in raw “Cosmetics are often considered the researchers and tech equipment from materials and active ingredients, 'poor relatives' of pharmaceuticals both parties will also be established Intercos Group's president and founder developed over the last 25 years, as but there's a lot of people applying Dario Ferrari signing the agreement with the on one of the university's campuses, University of Milano-Bicocca. well as its knowledge of the market. for this industry because it has specifically the one at Vedano al At the signing of the deal, The executive identified the main been making progress in leaps and Lambro, a 20-minute drive from Intercos’ founder and president challenge of the partnership in bounds and it moves faster than Intercos headquarters. Dario Ferrari recalled previous, creating a common language “since pharmaceutical. We move in a more Dubbed “Joint Lab,” the laboratory one-off collaborations with the as of today we speak two different agile way, which is rooted in the will officially kick off its activities multidisciplinary university but ones” but said the collaboration will be nature of our business itself, so we in September. The initial, shared defined the new, long-term agreement fruitful and result in new solutions in can bring a way of thinking that's investment in the operation was more as “one-of-a-kind.” cosmetics. innovative and faster,” Ferrari said. than 1 million euros. “Since the very beginning of this “The result will be proportional to Founded in 1972, Intercos supplies A technical scientific committee company, we understood that research our ability to turn [discoveries] into makeup and skin care to around comprising four representatives and innovation was the only way to efficient, commercial opportunities 450 customers globally. It employs of each party will set the general grow. We wanted to be the company and take them to the market. This about 5,800 people worldwide, guidelines for the development that could invest more money, energy will be our goal and, presumption distributed through 11 research of activities and definition of and workforce in innovation in the aside, I believe Intercos is really the centers, 15 production plants and operational projects. world of cosmetics globally, and we ideal vehicle to promote any new 15 sales offices on three continents.

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awareness to unite and promote positive change. As an organization, we have Vision and Commitment embraced this ethos that serves as a powerful daily inspiration and a reminder that, when people come together and share authentic experiences, it builds for a Brighter Future bonds, strengthens connections, and fosters a more dynamic and multifaceted As Eder Ramos steps in as Symrise’s new Global President of the exchange of ideas and creativity. Fragrance division, his sights are set on promoting growth via innovation, FMG: Can you speak more to the company`s values and how they inspire sustainability, diversity and inclusion. innovation across the company? E.R.: We are a disruptive company working with raw materials, intellectual capital and t the end of 2020, Symrise, including a more robust rollout human relations. Symrise has six corporate Symrise announced of diverSym, the company’s mission and values, all of which are equally important: new leadership his hopes for the future. creativity, excellence, sustainability, com- changes, including the mitment, integrity and added value. promotion of Eder Fairchild Media Group: What is the For me, creativity, or the idea of “always Ramos to Global company’s approach and philosophy in inspiring more,” is prevalent throughout President of the terms of inclusivity and diversity? the Fragrance division — from Supply AFragrance division. As a leader in the Eder Ramos: Diversity and inclusion Chain to Perfumery. Creativity is in our industry, Symrise has built its success on are global themes with regional and local DNA and I am always proud of my team the foundations of sustainability, innova- nuances. However, Symrise is commit- for their work to inspire new ideas, inno- tion, and inclusion. Under Eder’s lead- ted to ensuring equality and is currently vation and disruption. ership, the company aims to amplify its engaged in projects that actively move Eder Ramos, commitment to these key pillars, while this mission forward. In a greater sense, Global President FMG: How would you define the also dedicating focus towards the people the appreciation of diversity and inclusion company’s mission? and talent that will transform and solid- at Symrise is a commitment we reaffirm Symrise? E.R.: Our mission is to help our cus- ify Symrise’s position as an employer of every day through our core values and our E.R.: There are many layers to the topic of tomers improve the lives of everyone by choice for years to come. organizational culture, which is the foun- diversity & inclusion and because of this, actively partnering to increase consum- In 2019, while heading the global dation of our success. we tapped into our employee network to ers’ well-being, happiness and health; this Cosmetic Ingredients group, Eder spear- We invite each and every employee to gather insights and collaborate on defin- serves as our motivation in the Fragrance headed the launch of the diverSym initia- reflect on their role in promoting inclu- ing our vision. division. We strive to conduct our business tive. Through this program, the Symrise sive practices and learning more about Essentially, diverSym is the “embrace” activities in harmony with people, society Brazil community served as architects of these topics, which are part of who we are that supports, comforts and celebrates. and nature. That’s why we develop supe- what has now become the blueprint for and who we want to be as a company. Our mission is to generate dialogue, rior sensory solutions and ingredients for D&I initiatives across the organization. value plurality and differences to promote existing and emerging consumer needs in Here, Eder Ramos talks to Fairchild FMG: Can you explain what diverSym Diversity & Inclusion within Symrise. It’s fine fragrance, personal care, home care, Media Group about his top priorities at is and how it is defined as a part of about listening, engaging and exercising and other everyday products. DEEP DIVE COVID's Long-Term Impact 6 MARCH 26, 2021

Gates predicted a “hangover effect” from COVID-19 when it comes to consumers and testers. “Do I want to be testing and trying things that I know a million other people have touched?” she said. “How can we get more innovative with sample programs?” Hygiene will extend into payments, as well, noted Greene. “You're going to see a lot more voice activation, contactless, BioID payments,” she said.

corporate social responsibility The heightened focus on diversity and inclusion that followed the killing of George Floyd in May is here to stay, experts said. Beauty brands are tasked with examining equity and inclusion in their organizations as consumers continue to spend with companies that align with their values. “A lot of what we saw in the news over the last year was corporate America being a lot more performative. Now it's time for them to actually double down and create opportunity,” Behari said.

sustainability Experts said coming out of the pandemic, consumers will be and clean beauty. People are focusing increasingly focused on sustainable on things you can see outside the shopping, paying attention to product How the mask, so to having clean and healthy packaging, but also reconsidering hair, it's getting back to taking care of buying volumes. your skin,” said Mousumi Behari, an “In the beginning of the pandemic, Coronavirus e-commerce expert at Avionos. sustainability was a huge thing In terms of wellness, an evolution because things were scarce. It made is also underway, said futurist people think, ‘should I be using all Changed Beauty Lucie Greene. this plastic? Should I be using all this “The idea of spending a fortune water?’” Gates said. “People had to get Shoppers' focus on self-care and corporate social on all these luxury boutique on- really survivalist in the beginning, and responsibility are here to stay, experts said. BY ALLISON COLLINS demand classes and supplements and that type of thing carries over — you refillable bottles and weird ingestible reflect on how much we did waste, or THE CORONAVIRUS pandemic the increasing democratization of products…it's a very Millennial, how much we overconsumed.” has altered the beauty and shopping beauty, acceleration of e-commerce yuppie idea, a very luxury idea, Gates is seeing beauty brands look habits of many consumers, who and purpose as a cornerstone of of wellness,” Greene said. into postconsumer recycled plastics or have spent the last year cutting their brand building. And it's on its way out, in favor recycling ocean plastics, or refillable own hair, filing their own nails and This past year saw two major retail of a more holistic approach. options. “I don't think people want to performing other odd grooming tasks partnerships: and Target, “[There is] a desire for more go back to being wasteful,” she said. at home. and Sephora and 's. Those deals simplified wellness, where you can Consumers want to make sure Some initiatives that have gained each bring higher-end items into walk, where you're in nature, and products they use “don't destroy the traction over the past year, including lower-priced ecosystems, and are seen where you're doing it as much for environment,” or have workers in an increased focus on self-care and as moves toward democratization. your mental health as anything,” “terrible factory conditions,” Behari said. corporate social responsibility, are And while those partnerships Greene said. “It's become more here to stay, experts said. But others — have major IRL shopping in mind, elemental — good food, fresh air, time digital especially the DIY haircuts — are not. consumers will continue to shop with family, community. There's been Store shutdowns during the “No one really wants to run around online, experts say. E-commerce a great paring back.” COVID-19 pandemic caused many with a raggedy head of hair,” said accelerated during the pandemic, “Outdoors oriented personal care shoppers to head online for beauty Neil Saunders, managing director at and is expected to continue to play a will continue to grow,” she added, purchases, driving a massive uptick GlobalData Retail. major role in sales going forward. including SPFs and barrier creams. in e-commerce sales. That prompted As more and more people become Here are the beauty and shopping companies to provide better online vaccinated, many are expected trends that experts predict will hygiene shopping assistance and try-on tools. to seek out services, including outlast the pandemic. Experts predict the need for hygiene Those tools helped to propel , , , — both in terms of in-store trial growth for brands like home hair- and brow offerings. Self- self-care and in personal care products — color business Madison Reed. care is expected to evolve as people Beauty marketers had been peddling will linger long after the pandemic. “There has been a huge amount find themselves with more social skin care as self-care for years, but Unilever's Dove, for example, has of innovation in how to deliver engagements and less time for that concept hit the mainstream ramped up marketing for Anti- these services at home with online pampering. And hygiene, which has during the COVID-19 pandemic as Bacterial Body Wash. tutorials,” Greene said. been top of mind will play a major consumers increasingly added beauty “There's been a trend of hygiene Livestreaming is also here to say, factor going forward in both the rituals into their wellness routines. and self-care that has expanded,” Saunders said. “Just from the supply personal care and sampling arenas. Going forward, the concept is said Cecilia Gates, chief executive point of view, there will be a lot more There have also been major expected to endure, but evolve to be officer of Gates Creative. “During the retailers out there experimenting developments that are expected to less materialistic. pandemic we launched an oral beauty with livestreaming,” he noted, ticking forever change the industry, including “There's a movement toward natural brand for Colgate for Gen Z.” off Walmart and Nordstrom. POWERED BY: Cultivating a Culture of Empowerment With a female trifecta at the top, Paula’s Choice proves that bringing its brand DNA of empowerment to the forefront is key to finding success.

mpowerment, includ- ing empowerment of women, is a message that has carefully woven throughout the DNA of Paula’s Choice since its inception – a quality Eshe counts as the key to the brand’s over- all success. In its 25 years, Paula’s Choice has earned a loyal following through a ded- ication to its consumers, empowering them to make the best skincare decisions possible by providing transparency, edu- cation and research-backed products that work. But what consumers don’t know is that the work of empowerment starts long before production, and in fact is part of the brand’s core philosophy at every stage. Erika Kussmann, “Throughout my 40-year career in chief marketing Paula Begoun, Tara Poseley, chief beauty I have always focused on empow- officer at founder of executive officer ering people through research, facts, Paula’s Choice Paula’s Choice at Paula’s Choice and education so they can make the best skincare decisions possible,” said Begoun. practice the team is then able to take the those around her. “Paula was a real beacon “And I know that whatever we are trying best part of an idea and collaborate to of that, enabling me to step into my role to accomplish in life, that the way to create the best outcome. with confidence. I do better with strong self-esteem, self-confidence, and heal- “To run a truly creative or agile orga- In corporate women and men, and Paula’s embodiment ing is following the path of knowledge nization, where the people doing the of these values were important to me and to improve our own lives and the lives of work are the people making the decisions, culture, we how I could use her as a mentor.” others as well.” has to mean creating space for making Today, alongside her, Begoun has been a wrong decision, balanced with being don’t give Leading with kindness joined by a force of female leadership accountable and taking responsibility Further Poseley applauded her colleagues with Tara Poseley, chief executive officer for improving our own processes,” said enough for leading with kindness which she has at Paula’s Choice and Erika Kussmann, Poseley. “It’s essential for people to be credit to how seen as being as indispensable for creat- chief marketing officer at Paula’s Choice, stretching, learning and pushing to drive ing a culture across the entire company along with an all-female team of general creativity and innovation.” operating for an open dialogue where employees managers across Europe and Asia, to fur- When it comes to life lessons, Begoun bring ideas to the table. “Leading with ther bring her focus to life. said, “I wish I had known that if I’m the with kindness kindness changes everything in business smartest person in the room I’m in the and respect for the better because when people feel Female trifecta wrong room. Surrounding yourself with compassion and empathy they do incred- Together, in the past two years, the smart people with different backgrounds can drive ible things and come to work with pride trio has led the brand to achieve two helps you form better ideas and make the and excitement ready,” said Poseley. times the sales growth, four times the best well-informed balanced decisions.” business Echoing the sentiment, Kussmann Instagram following and over four times “In corporate culture, we don’t give told WWD, “Human beings should treat the customer acquisition . In 2020, enough credit to how operating with results.” one another with respect. That’s how Paula’s Choice was named one of the kindness and respect can drive business Tara Poseley, I operate as a leader and those are the five most talked-about beauty brands on results,” said Poseley. “Leading with chief executive officer expectations I set for my organization. I Reddit and, thanks to its Tik Tok popular kindness and respect doesn’t mean we at Paula’s Choice learn from my team every day and they products, was among the top four brands don’t hold ourselves to an incredibly high are why our brand has the momentum gaining the most traction via search standard of professionalism but we do it we’re experiencing today.” according to Google and Spate. without antagonism or rivalry. We learn Moreover, Begoun said it is important According to Begoun, Poseley and from each other and focus on how we can well-rounded, open leadership style. For to recognize that a company can only Kussmann, these accomplishments, and motivate ourselves and our teams to the Poseley, joining Paula’s Choice four years truly be successful when the people they on a larger scale the brand’s strength next level of excellence and success whilst ago felt like a new chapter, one where she bring together are in the right environ- in consumer connection, should be maintaining a collective spirit”. was able to contribute to building a cul- ment to grow together, establish ways to attributed to the corporate culture from ture that she believed in. encourage and focus on equal opportuni- within Paula’s Choice. Put simply, by cul- Collective value “It was the first time I could really ties – all are recognized. tivating ethos that empowers from within, “We rolled out the agile way of work- unleash all those parts of me and show “I’m proud to say Paula’s Choice the brand can share those values with the ing across our organization so that we up to an organization, full-throttle as Skincare is fueled by intelligent, talented consumer in an authentic way. can work together, collaboratively, as me. It was liberating and exciting,” said and caring women and men too,” said The goal is to help everyone on the high-performing teams to effectively Poseley. “I said on the first day, leave Begoun. “I have been privileged to work team bring out big, out-of-the-box ideas deliver the most value to the customer as your ego at the door. I get excited about with so many amazing people at Paula’s by advocating for all employees to be a brand,” said Kussmann. hiring super smart people around me, Choice Skincare. Whether it’s my bril- proud of their concept that they believe Notably, Begoun, Poseley and thought partners with incredible judg- liant research team, eloquent writers, will ultimately help the company. As a Kussmann have a diverse set of pro- ment who I can constantly learn from. I creative geniuses, financial gurus or com- leader Poseley says she goes into every fessional backgrounds prior to joining want to keep learning.” passionate managers they have all been meeting with the mindset of allowing her forces at Paula’s Choice – something that From Begoun, Poseley said she felt a dedicated to their work and they create opinion to be altered. Putting this into the team has embraced and has led to a new confidence that she in turn shares with magic on a daily basis.” DEEP DIVE COVID's Long-Term Impact 8 MARCH 26, 2021

shift in buying online, he also noted the “general feeling of 'support local' when business opens up.” Romano Brida, founder and chief executive officer of men’s grooming brand and barber shop chain Bullfrog, also witnessed the trend, as the turnover his company generated through “small, neighborhood shops” and independent retailers — including barber shops, perfumeries and its franchising network — grew and exceeded sales registered in its direct stores, usually located in bigger cities. For instance, the Bullfrog barber shop in Monza — a 40-minute drive from Milan — tripled its turnover in 2020, despite the restrictions. The new attention to local stores and shift to online platforms enabled customers to discover niche brands, formerly hampered by not being distributed by traditional channels. Hervé Bouvier, global brand director of Comfort Zone, underscored that the “market fragmentation and the emergence

A Bullfrog barber shop of niche or indie brands” has been a in Bergamo, Italy. growing trend for the last five years but forecast that local labels will grow players that saw a surge of online quicker than imported ones in the sales, up 48 percent. Throughout respective markets. Adding to their Italian Beauty 2020, the company also adjusted appeal, local labels are perceived as its product launches according to more sustainable for the reduced consumers' changing preferences, environmental impact caused by Executives Adapt which veered toward skin care and self transportation, for instance. care products, nail care, as As all companies agreed that shifted from salons to homes, and sustainability will be the only way To New Times lastly, no transfer cosmetics. forward, for the packaging industry “Beauty, including color cosmetics, this will have to be combined with Digitalization and flexibility were the immediate solutions, continues to play an important role heightened expectations in hygiene. while regionalization and customization are set to shape in consumers’ life.” said Linnemann, “Many of the new behaviors and the future of the beauty scene. BY SANDRA SALIBIAN confirming that makeup's use was needs emerged in recent months, such driven also by the frequent video as the attention to hygiene, safety and MILAN — The pandemic pushed “Like everyone else, we had to calls — although that wasn't enough prevention, will continue to be part Italian cosmetics companies’ manage the consequences of the to combat sluggish sales. of our daily life. This also includes boundaries further in terms of agility pandemic on customers' demand, Yet for Ferrari, color cosmetics the increased popularity of packaging and flexibility, not only accelerating which led to calendar shifts and will regain traction when the that keep the product sterile, such their digitalization significantly, revisions of order's quantity, also in restrictions to social life will cease, as pump applicators, airless options, but also creating seismic shifts in relation to the different countries positively forecasting a comeback sprays that are anti-bacterial and their approach to business — which of distribution and [our clients' in the second half of the year. sometimes even self-cleaning, as veered from global to local — and in own] business model, with a greater Overall, the slowdown in makeup well as sustainable products,” said drawing attention to niche brands, penalization for the less online- demand hampered Italian suppliers' Romualdo Priore, marketing director sustainability and customization. oriented ones,” said Cecilia Schena, performance, as local manufacturers at packaging specialist Lumson. Even if it imparted valuable senior vice president of marketing and are specialists of color cosmetics. In light of their increased lessons, COVID-19 inevitably came business development of Chromavis. A diversified production helped awareness on sustainable matters, with a negative impact sales-wise. “The context of uncertainty and poor Intercos to counterbalance the consumers will demand a return According to preliminary data visibility on the future turned into an performance of makeup with those of to essentiality and ask for product released by Cosmetica Italia, in inevitable challenge to become more the skin care and categories. novelties “not to be launched just for 2020 total sales of Italian beauty flexible and commit to increasingly Intercos' global scale also played the sake of it but to actually bring companies were down 12.8 percent to adopt a start-up approach.” in Ferrari's favor, securing the added value,” Priore said. 10.47 billion euros compared to 2019. To this end, the company turned its continuity of the corporate activity. For Fabio Franchina, president Exports decreased 16.5 percent to “one-to-one relationship with clients The executive believes its spread-out of professional hair care company 4.1 billion euros, with the cosmetics into an opportunity” with the Atelier presence across three continents will Framesi, today’s consumer no longer suppliers being the most affected project enabling clients to create further be strategic as regionalization seeks the lowest price but “the most by the contraction in international small batches of customized products gained importance compared to correct one for a certain standard of demand as their sales were down 17.5 and take them to the market in just globalization throughout 2020, and product and service.” In addition to percent to 1.37 billion euros last year. three weeks. will remain central for the future. the eco-friendly trend, he cited time Intercos Group's founder and “Consumers are looking for “We have a very large global as key driver in the future. president Dario Ferrari confirmed that personalization and in this context footprint which helped us to try “Hair salons have learned to optimize one of the company's key changes was suppliers are being asked to become and anticipate the effect of the their schedules out of necessity, but “the management of the volatility of more consumer-oriented,” confirmed pandemic from the learnings we had they will continue to do so to guarantee demand and of a large number of new Kiko's general brand manager Heike from addressing the East,” said the a top service. Those who will offer projects of smaller scale compared Linnemann. general manager of Davines' hair high-quality services in less time will to the past, which is attributable to With its physical units closed for care division Mark Giannandrea. be decidedly more competitive and client's greater attention on stocks.” months, Kiko is among the beauty While confirming the consumers' winning,” said Franchina. DEEP DIVE COVID's Long-Term Impact 9 MARCH 26, 2021

Chinese shoppers trying on beauty products Tourism Investment Development to in a duty-free shop on Hainan Island, China. open the second-largest downtown duty-free store in Sanya. Driven by attractive discounts and the warm weather, over the Chinese New Year holiday, which ran from Feb. 11 to 17, duty-free stores on Hainan Island saw sales exceed 1.5 billion yuan, or $231.2 million, doubling the amount recorded in the same period for 2019. Building on this momentum, Haikou will also host the first China International Consumer Products Expo from May 7 to 10. Confirmed participants include Galeries Lafayette, DFS Group, Tapestry Inc., Swatch Group, L’Oréal Group, and Kao. While international beauty companies fight to enter the market and go after China's affluent shoppers, some of the largest Chinese beauty groups were dealing with a different set of challenges. Shanghai Jahwa, which relies heavily on traditional sales channels, saw its revenue down by 7.43 percent in 2020 due to the pandemic. But Jahwa's premium and specialist offerings like Vive, Gaofu, Dr. Yu and Herborist Derma, still managed to achieve to open its first store in Shanghai in healthy growth in the second half. the fourth quarter of 2021, and The In the third quarter, the company China's Beauty Body Shop’s first store in China is set also adjusted its e-commerce business to open in 2022. structure, optimizing livestreaming No brand will probably say no to and cultivating streaming talents to Market Reconfigures duty-free shops in China nowadays, improve profitability. Highlights in the past year include livestreaming, clean and as this sector has seen exponential For the more digitally savvy Proya growth since China's tightened its Cosmetic, its 2020 beauty sales cruelty-free beauty, domestic duty-free shopping and niche broader control. are estimated to increase by more brand acquisitions. BY TIANWEI ZHANG Cities such as Shenzhen, Shanghai, than 10 percent. The company cited Beijing and Hainan Island's capital e-commerce as the main driver of LONDON — While the world is still was among the first to sell via Haikou and tourist hotspot Sanya that growth. Its gross merchandise disrupted by the virus, China has livestreaming in an attempt to save have all made strategic moves in value on Alibaba's platforms alone been largely COVID-19 free for almost the company from bankruptcy, as order to take a bigger share of this grew 40 percent and surpassed 1.89 a year. With global traveling a no-go, half of its points of sales across lucrative market, where beauty and billion renminbi, or $292 million. The and mask-wearing here to stay, the China were shut due to government fragrances are the biggest sellers. In company also set up an incubation nation's beauty market has adjusted regulations and safety concerns. fact, both L’Oréal and Estée Lauder program with Alibaba's Tmall to to this new reality with major Its best-known organic camellia oil cited spectacular growth in China forester start-ups in the beauty sector. developments in sales-driven online was later marketed as a product that during their latest earning calls. The newly listed Yatsen Holding initiatives, clean and cruelty-free can repair the damage to nurse’s skin Not long after the central Ltd., the parent company of cosmetics beauty, domestic duty-free shopping after they wear masks for a long period government loosened regulations on and skin care brands Perfect Diary, and niche brand acquisitions. of time. The brand is now one of the this lucrative sector last June, DFS Little Ondine, Abby’s Choice and “Because of the wearing of masks, the bestselling skin care brands on Tmall. Group, the Moët Hennessy Louis Galénic, posted an increase of 72.6 demand for clean beauty has grown, Another hot topic that has emerged Vuitton-owned travel retail operator, percent on revenue in 2020. A and the need for cleansing and during 2020 was the revision to acquired a 22 percent stake in pioneer of the direct-to-consumer maintenance has also increased,” said China’s cosmetics animal testing rules. Shenzhen Duty Free Ecommerce Co., model in China, Perfect Diary was Mao Geping, one of China's most Earlier this month, China's National which is majority-owned by Shenzhen also the bestselling Chinese beauty celebrated makeup artists. Medical Products Administration Duty Free Group. The two recently brand during last year’s Singles’ Day During the pandemic, like many announced that imported ordinary unveiled the first phase of their shopping festival on Tmall. others, he began to work with cosmetics will not be required to new downtown duty-free shopping The company recently doubled influencers and vloggers to share undergo animal testing from May 1, complex in Haikou Mission Hills. down on niche brand investments to makeup skills or promote his label opening the way for a wave of new China Duty Free Group, the largest future-proof its profitability. In March, via livestreaming. A video of him beauty brands to enter the country duty-free operator in China, also it announced plans to acquire the transforming the face of China's that had previously avoided the world’s announced expansion plans with London-based beauty brand Eve Lom. most-followed fashion vlogger second-largest beauty market — the Sanya Phoenix International Airport to Omnichannel brand partner Teacher Xu has near 1 million views U.S. is the largest — over ethical values. open duty-free shops in the airport to Ushopal, which announced the close on China streaming site Bilibili and For example, Brazilian beauty further capture the influx of tourists. of a $100 million round of funding half million on YouTube so far. conglomerate and cruelty-free beauty In January, Dufry unveiled a in early March, is another Chinese Also benefiting from the leader, Natura & Co., the parent cooperative agreement with Hainan player that has been active in niche livestreaming trend is the Shanghai- company of and Development Holdings and opened beauty brand acquisitions. based clean beauty brand Forest announced days later that both brands its first shop on Jan. 31, at the Global The group has already invested in Cabin, or Lin Qin Xuan in Chinese. are eyeing for China market entry. Duty Free Plaza at the Mova Mall in several of its brand partners, such as During the pandemic, the Roberto Marques, chairman of Haikou. At the same time, Lagardère Natura Bissé from Spain and

company's cofounder Sun Fuchun Natura & Co., said Aesop is expected formed a partnership with the Hainan label Juliette Has a Gun. Photograph by Imaginechina via AP Images BRIDGING THE DIGITAL DIVIDE

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women earn 98.2 percent of what men earn. The intention is to close that gap by 2023, the company said. As companies look to progress toward parity, they will need to address systemic issues, including ensuring women are hired and promoted across different lines of business. “Women have tended to end up in less of the line functions and more on the staff functions like HR and marketing and general counsel,” said Hariton. “There’s bias through the whole chain of processes.” Women are affected by the “Goldilocks syndrome,” Hariton said, which often lands them in “caring roles” rather than leadership positions. And too often, men hire and promote “within their own image,” Hariton said, drawing from groups that lead to the hiring and promotion of more men. Beauty companies should implement inclusive hiring and promoting practices, but also consider mentorship programs for women starting at the Are Women Moving Up Beauty’s entry level, Hariton said, as well as provide training for managers. “You need to build an inclusive culture at Corporate Ladder? every level,” she said. The lack of women in leadership In the top 20 beauty manufacturers, women hold only 15 percent of CEO titles. positions is slightly less pronounced BY ALLISON COLLINS with smaller and mid-sized beauty companies. THERE ARE MORE women chief is leading fast-growing hair care Hariton said, speaking about bias in “When you get to some of the executive officers in beauty today business Olaplex. Founder Vicky the workplace. smaller brands and mid-sized brands, than there ever have been, but at the Tsai is back in the CEO seat at skin The beauty industry should have some of the VC and private equity- world’s biggest beauty companies, care business Tatcha, following the a minimum of 50 percent women backed businesses, you certainly will men remain in charge. departure of former CEO Jean-Marc leaders, given the numbers of women see a lot more women at the helm The incoming CEO of L’Oréal, the Plisson. And Nicola Kilner is CEO at in the workforce and the female as CEO than you’re going to at the world’s biggest beauty company by Lauder-owned Deciem. dominant consumer base, Hariton bigger companies,” said Lisa Marie sales, Nicolas Hieronimus, is male; While Mary Dillon has been CEO of said. “In the beauty industry, we should Ringus, executive vice president for Alan Jope, CEO of the second-largest Ulta Beauty since 2014 and will remain be at parity, because there’s certainly global client strategy and growth at beauty manufacturer, Unilever, is in the position until June, her successor enough women at the bottom and the recruitment agency 24 Seven. “That’s male; the CEO of the third-largest is a man — Dave Kimbell, who is consumers are women,” she said. because there’s been more opportunity beauty manufacturer, the Estée currently president of Ulta. There's also “[Women] are the mass consumers extended. Someone might have to wait Lauder Cos., Fabrizio Freda, is male. Roz Brewer, who started as Walgreens of beauty products, and I don't think for the right timing to step into the Of the top 20 beauty Boots Alliance CEO earlier this month, consumers understand and know CEO position at a large company.” manufacturers, only three — 15 becoming one of two Black women who's actually at the top of these Some of those jobs may not open percent — are led by women CEOs. leading a Fortune 500 company. corporations,” said Nicole Mason, up for a while. Hieronimus at L'Oréal None are women of color. Beauty's indie brand landscape is president and CEO of the Institute for was just recently appointed, for In 2020, Sue Nabi, a trans woman, also host to countless female founder- Women's Policy Research. example. He is in his mid-fifties, and was appointed CEO at Coty Inc., CEO hybrids. “Externally facing, many beauty will have years to lead the L'Oréal the sixth largest beauty company, But at the highest levels of the companies go above and beyond to business before mandated retirement and Angela Cretu was named CEO industry, more progress needs to be relate to women, to pull them in, at age 65. His predecessor, Jean-Paul of , the 18th largest made for women to reach parity. telegraphing messages of women's Agon, has been CEO since 2006. beauty manufacturer. Alex Keith has According to Lorraine Hariton, empowerment,” Mason continued. Shella Abe, co-head of the CEO/ been CEO of P&G Beauty, the fourth president and CEO of Catalyst, the “There's a gap between what we as Board of Directors practice for beauty, largest beauty company, since 2019. upper echelons of the beauty industry consumers understand and who is fashion and retail at TrueSearch, has That 15 percent figure represents mimic the Fortune 500. leading the companies.” started to see demand for women progress from a few years ago. In Pre-pandemic, women had reached Some companies have outlined leaders from mid-sized beauty brands. 2018, when Beauty Inc looked into parity in the entry-level workforce plans to increase representation and “In the past year, year and a half, women CEO figures, only one of the in the U.S., but the coronavirus has equity for women, including Lauder. there is a huge mandate,” she said. “I've top 20 beauty manufacturers was run disproportionately affected women and The company said it will reach parity never had founders or investors or by a woman — Debbie Perelman at set them back. In middle management for Black women at all levels of the owner-entrepreneurs be so aggressive . She still holds that position, positions, women represent around business in the U.S. by 2025, and about hiring female leaders.” though Revlon is no longer a top 25 percent to 30 percent of workers, that it will achieve gender parity on But historically, women have not 20 beauty manufacturer. Hariton said, and in the CEO seat at the board and in senior leadership always been given those types of There are women CEOs at smaller Fortune 500 companies, women make positions globally by 2025. Currently, leadership opportunities, and the beauty companies, and at beauty up 8 percent of leaders, up from 4.5 women make up 44 percent of pool of women with the experience to retailers, too. percent from when Hariton started the Lauder's board, and 55 percent of the step into the CEO role isn't as big as Annie Young-Scrivner was Catalyst job two and a half years ago. executives at the vice president level it should be, Abe noted. appointed CEO at newly formed “There are a lot of systemic and above are women. “It makes sense — they weren't Co. in 2020. Cara Sabin is issues that are still challenges for Lauder also conducted a gender given the opportunities way back when. CEO of Sundial Brands. JuE Wong corporations to get closer to parity,” pay-gap analysis and found that But if you and I are having this same  ANALYZE THIS 12 MARCH 26, 2021

WOMEN IN Women Who've ReachedC-Suite the BEAUTY'S WORKFORCE Major beauty companies provided WWD with data on the percentages of women working across levels of their businesses.

COTY C suite: 3/5 (60%) identify as women

Executive level employees: 39% identify as women

Total workforce: 61%

E.L.F. BEAUTY C Suite: 3/7 (43%) identify as women

Director level and above: 65% identify as women

Total workforce: 75% identify as women

THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS. Executive Team: 6/15 (40%) identify as women

Vice President and above: 56% identify as women

Total workforce: 83% identify as women

JOHNSON & JOHNSON Leadership Team: 3/11 (27%) identify as women

Executive level employees: 14.3% identify as women

Total workforce: 47% identify as women

L’ORÉAL Executive committee: 5/19 (26%) identify as women

Executive leadership positions: 54% identify as women

Total workforce: 69% identify as women

P&G BEAUTY C-Suite: 5/9 (55%) identify as women

From Top Left: Sue Y. Nabi; Executive level employees : 48% identify as women Alex Keith; Angela Cretu; Cara Sabin; Jue Wong; Total workforce: 55% identify as women Annie Young-Scrivner; Tatcha Vicky Tsai; Nicola Kilner; Anastasia Soare; REVLON Elana Drell Szyfer; C-Suite: 6/11 (55%) identify as women Gillian Gorman Round; Rose Fernandez; Executive level employees : 50% identify as women Savannah Sachs; Tara Poseley; Nancy Twine; Total workforce: 65% identify as women Alicia Yoon; Desiree Rogers; Kendra Kolb Butler; Heela Yang

SEPHORA conversation in five years, something To really make change, The second step toward C Suite : 5/8 (63%) identify as women is royally [messed] up,” Abe said. companies should start with parity, according to Hariton, is Executive level employees: 68% identify as women Right now, women across commitment, Hariton noted, implementing measurement industries, including beauty, have including from male leadership. systems that track representation, Total workforce: 82% identify as women been disproportionally affected by “There needs to be a lot of pay equity, hiring, promotion and the COVID-19 pandemic. “We know intentionality,” she said, highlighting where people are by job category. SHISEIDO CO. LTD. from studies that women have taken the successes of Jane Fraser at Citi, From there, companies should C-Suite : 6/19 (31.6%) identify as women on a huge burden of working from who is the the first woman to head put policies in place that support Executive level employees: Did not disclose the percentage home, and caretaking for children, a major bank. Fraser joined Citi equity — like having all genders who identify as women and homeschool and running their in 2004 and started in investment take parental leave to eliminate Total workforce: 61% identify as women executives lines in a work-from- banking before moving up the the stigma that surrounds home environment,” Ringus said. ranks to lead different banking maternity leave, and measuring ULTA BEAUTY “How does that impact divisions and regions. Earlier this all employees based on the work C-Suite: 7/11 (64%) identify as women opportunities that might have year, she was named the bank's first they produce versus time spent been presented to them or in woman CEO, and has been credited in the office. Executive level employees: 64% identify as women their hemisphere, and how has with helping to shape Citi into the The last step toward greater Total workforce: 91% identify as women that affected women executives?” business it is today. gender parity, according to

Ringus posed. Hariton credited Citi with Hariton, is to create sponsorship UNILEVER Now, companies are tasked supporting Fraser on her path to programs that help women to get Leadership Executive Team: 4/13 (31%) identify as women not only with inclusion and the top. “They put her in the right into the “line jobs,” which can vary Management level employees: 50% identify as women job promotions for women, but jobs, they managed that with a lot by category but include managing helping to accelerate their careers of intentionality so she was really a P&L, “and allow them those Total workforce: 35% identify as women as we come out of the pandemic, in a position to take on the next experiences that will then enable *DATA FOR THE TOP 10 GLOBAL BEAUTY COMPANIES, AS RANKED BY WWD BEAUTY INC BASED ON 2019 CY SALES.

Ringus said. role,” she said. them to get those top jobs.” ■ Rogers photograph by Nathan Becker; Keith Stephen Leek; Wong J. Ryan Robert Sjryan@jryanrober; Tsai Miki Chishaki; Soare by Dominique Maître; Szyfer Nathaniel Johnston; Sachs Andrei Luca andrei-photography.com sustainability summit VIRTUAL · APRIL 21–22

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Dior's Dior collection through the years. Sealed With a Kiss Reviewing Christian Dior’s long love affair with . BY JAMES MANSO

WHEN CHRISTIAN DIOR under past and present image started offering limited-edition directors Serge Lutens and Peter to VIPs at his collection Philips, including the most recent presentation in 1950, there were only iteration that launched in January 350 units produced, coordinated to of this year. Bourdelier said such match the red and orchid dresses in reinterpretations require a constant the collection. Within three years, conversation with the brand’s past. Dior started manufacturing lipsticks “Peter and the team are always commercially, called Rouge Dior, for very excited when we discover a export to foreign markets, and the new archive find, for example” he rest is history. said. “Today, very few houses are as Although Dior’s work in fashion invested in heritage.” Here, some of predated the brand's beauty launches, the images and ads from the Dior the designer always had ambitions archives that have had a lasting in beauty. “The dream of Dior was impression on beauty. the New Look, obviously, but also the total look: to dress women from head to toe, including the smile,” said Frédéric Bourdelier, director of brand culture and heritage at Parfums Christian Dior. “At the end of the war, we were in a moment of optimism, glamour, seduction and happiness. So, Rouge Dior is synonymous with this joie de vivre,” he said. It’s also a core piece of the brand’s offerings today. “The link is obvious — it’s perfection, glamour, couture and creativity,” Bourdelier said. “It’s a pillar of the brand in terms of image.” That first foray into color cosmetics — the only one during Christian Dior’s lifetime — has

been reincarnated over the years Photographs courtesy of Parfums Christian Dior