CU/FH 220 ART, DESIGN & FASHION IN FRANCE IES Abroad Paris BIA

DESCRIPTION: The course aims to enrich students’ general knowledge of the fields of art and fashion over the past century. Additionally we will work on key concepts in fashion advertising, by acquiring a base in the history of fashion and in the evolution of technics in fashion marketing throughout the twentieth century. Upon completion of this course, students will be able to anticipate trends. Furthermore, this course will allow students the opportunity to develop their creativity in the field of communication.

CREDITS: 3 credits

CONTACT HOURS: 45 hours

LANGUAGE OF INSTRUCTION: English

PREREQUISITES: None

METHOD OF PRESENTATION: • Lecture • Class discussion

REQUIRED WORK AND FORM OF ASSESSMENT: • Course participation - 10% • Short Quizzes - 30% • Midterm Exam - 30% • Final Exam – 30%

Course Participation A short daily quiz will be given at the beginning of each class.

Midterm Exam The Midterm will be a written exam given in class on Monday, October 17th, which will last for 1.5 hours.

Final Exam The final exam will be an analysis of a fashion marketing campaign, which will last 1.5 hours. For example the movie "Reincarnation" made by made by Karl Lagerfeld, and exercises on notions mentioned in the courses.

LEARNING OUTCOMES: By the end of the course students will be able to: • Know the major players in the fashion industry. • Articulate the main steps in the evolution of fashion advertising • Identify major actors in the world of fashion marketing and important new trends in the field. • Analyze fashion with appropriate technical vocabulary • Identify principal periods in the history of fashion

ATTENDANCE POLICY: Since IES BIA courses are designed to take advantage of the unique contribution of the instructor and since the lecture/discussion format is regarded as the primary mode of instruction, regular class attendance is mandatory.

Absences for documented medical problems or family emergencies will be excused. Absences for any other reason will not be excused. If you are absent due to illness, you will be asked to present a medical certificate.

If a student shows a pattern in absences, in violation of this policy, students may be subject to an Academic Review including but not limited to a letter sent to their school and a probationary period or exclusion from the program.

CONTENT:

Week Content Assignments

Week 1: HISTORICAL CONTEXT For next week: January 23rd Introduction APRAXINE Pierre – 1. Definition of « » and the La Divine Comtesse: Photographs of the Countess de movements that influenced French Castiglione society at the end of the XIXth and . 2000, 193p beginning of the XXth century Read from p89 to p155

1.1 the second colonization Google books link: 1.2 Ethnography and World exhibitions https://books.google.fr/books?id=iFCPHyL9PJoC&pg=PA79&d 1.3. Scientism and industrial revolution: q=casati+castiglione&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q the case of World Exhibition =casati%20castiglione&f=false 1.4 the Context: 1.4.1 Revival of the greek style 1.4.2 Dandysm 1.4.3 Crinolines 1.4.5 the fashion leader: Empress Eugenia 1.4.6 Who founded the “haute couture”: Charles Worth (1825- 1895) 1.5.Artistic movements which influenced the “haute couture” 1.5.1 Historicism: the case of Viollet le duc & Jones Owens 1.5.2 The Japonism in Europe 1.5.3 Shungas 1.5.4 Samuel Bing 1.5.4.1 Art Nouveau (1890- 1914) 1.5.6 Arts and crafts (c.1860 to 1910) 1.5.7 Aesthetism: the case of Huysmans 1.5.8 Russian Ballets 1.5.9 L’hygienism 1.5.10 The sports: the case of Olympic games 1.5.11 Beginning of communitarianism 1.5.12 Feminism

Week 2: SHORT QUIZ For the next week: Tungate Mark - Fashion Brands: Branding Style from Armani January 30th ’Fashion icons between 1860 to 1914’ to Zara 2nd edition - 2008, 263p 1. Famous names who gave examples in Read from p9 to p17 fashion between 1860 to 1914 who are still references Google book link: 2.1 fashion icon : Castiglione (1837-1899) https://books.google.fr/books?id=1C73D94TwNYC&printsec=f 2.2 Fashion designer : Charles Worth rontcover&dq=fashion&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage& (1825-1895) founded the « Haute q=fashion&f=false Couture » 2.3 Fashion designer : Madeleine Laferrière (1847-1912) 2.4 Fashion designer : Jean Paquin (1891- 1956) 2.5 Fashion designer : Lady Daff-Gordon (1863-1935) who created the fashion show 2.6 Fashion designer: Paul Poirte (1879- 1944) who created the sportswer 2.7 Fashion designer: 2.8 Luisa Casati (1881-1957) 2.9 Loie Fuller (1862-1928) 2.10 Colette 2.11 Sarah Bernhard (1844-1923) 2.11.1 Alphonse Mucha 2.11.2 Lalique 2.12 Calamity Jane (1850-1903) 2.13 Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) 2.13.1 Aubrey Beardsley 2.14 Robert de Montesquiou (1855-1921) 2.15 Proust (1871-1922) 2.16 Mata Hari (1876-1917) 2.17 Isadora Duncan (1877-1927)

Week 3: SHORT QUIZ For next week: February 6th ‘1914-1945’ Watch “Secrets of Selfridges” – 54 min – 3. Movements that influenced French society 2014:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWlstWRC8WQ between 1914 and 1945

3.1 Before the WI 3.1.1Revolution in art with Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) 3.1.2 Chicago school 3.2 fashion after the WI, or the revival of grek style 3.2.1 Fashion designer: Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) 3.2.2 Fashion designer: Madame Grès (1935-1986)

3.5 Black Tuesday 3.6 movement which founded during this period the “garçonnes” 3.7 Fashion designer: beginnings of 3.8 Revolution in architecture: Adolf Loss (1870-1933) 3.9 Consequences in arts with the Bahaus 3.10 Painter and fashion designer: Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) 3.11 the Art Déco movement 3.12 architecte: Le Corbusier (1887-1965) 3.12.1 Mallet Stevens 3.13 American fashion movement: The zoot movement 3.14 Zazou movement 3.15 the Edelweiss Pirates in Germany 3.15 stars in Hollywood studios 3.15.1 Marlène Dietrich (1901- 1992) 3.15.2 Vivien Leigh (1913-1967) 3.15.3 Ingrid Bergman (1915- 1982) 3.15.4 Greta Garbo (1905-1990) 3.15.5 Rita Hayworth (1917-1982) 3.15.6 Lauren Bacall born in 1924 3.15.7 Ginger Rogers (1911-1995) 3.16 - 1936 and the Popular Front

Week 4: SHORT QUIZ February 20th ‘changing strategies’ 4. How to sell 4.1 Le Bon Marché 4.2 Old England 4.2 Selfridges 4.3 Galeries Lafayette 4.3.1 adviser: Jean Paul Gould 4.4 “Salon des Arts Ménagers” [1923- 1980] 4.5 Edouard Leclecq 4.6 Prisunic 4.7 Walmart 4.8 Interior designers 4.8.1 Dorothy Draper (1889- 1969) 4.8.2 Sister Prish (1910-1994) 4.8.3 Eero Saarinen (1910-1961) 4.8.4 Pierre Paulin (1927-2009) 4.8.5 Andrée Putman (1925- 1978) 4.8.6 Jacques Garcia

4.8.7 Buttazzoni 4.8.8 Chalan Minassian 4.8.9 Tristan Auer 4.8.10 François Joseph Graf 4.8.11 Pierre Yovanovitch 4.8.12 Alberto Pinto

Week 5: SHORT QUIZ REVIEWS February 27th ‘ Café Society or the new opportunity to sell Read for next week: ‘Haute Couture’ STEELE Valerie – 5. Café Society or the new opportunity to sell Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now – 1997 - 171p ‘Haute Couture’ 5.1 Context: Read from p1 to p13 5.1.1 Gentlemen club in Paris 5.1.2 “Dîner de la Marmite” an Google books links: example of think tank between https://books.google.fr/books?id=xqEt6Dpb4TYC&printsec=fr 1873-1914 ontcover&dq=new+look&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj- 5.1.3 Cornet Club :1860-1934 haag56HKAhWG1hoKHaQhAJkQ6AEIMjAC#v=onepage&q=ne 5.1 Café Society: w%20look&f=false 5.1.1 definition 5.1.2 parties between 1920 to 1971 5.1.3 example of communication for these cultural events 5.1.4 V.I.P. who organized & participed: 5.1.4.1 : Etienne de Beaumont (1883-1956) 5.1.4.2 : Man Ray (1890-1976) 5.1.4.3 : Vicomtesse de Noailles (1876-1933) 5.1.4.4 : The Mitford Family 5.1.4.5 : (1890-1973) 5.1.4.6: Jean Cocteau (1889- 1955) (§ Orphée on youtube) 5.1.4.7 : Lady Mendl (1865- 1950) 5.1.4.8 : Hélène Rochas (1927- 2011) 5.1.4.9 : Wallis Simpson (1896-1986) 5.1.4.10 Comtesse Jacqueline de Ribes born in 1929 5.1.4.11 Baron Alexis de Redé (1922-2004) 5.4.4 Guy de Rothschild (1909-2007)

5.4.5 The Queen Elizabeth II (§ the first travel made in Paris by the Queen in 1958)

Week 6: ‘ from the New Look to the ready to wear’ March 6th 6. from the New Look to the ready to wear 6.1 The revolution 6.2 all fashion designers followed him 6.3 opposition with Chanel 6.3 Chanel, the opposition 6.4 Followers and new generation: 6.4.1 Balenciaga 6.4.2 6.4.3 6.4.4 6.4.5 6.4.6 Mainbocher (1929-1971), American adventure 6.5 New Idea of communication : Elizabeth Arden 6.6 The ready to sell: the ready to wear 6.6.1 Chloé 6.6.2 Carvern

Midterm Exam Monday, March 6th

Week 7: SHORT QUIZ Read for next week: March 13th ‘ How the ready to wear changed the world of MESHER Lynne – fashion’ Basics Interior Design 01: Retail Design 7. How the ready to wear changed the world – 2013 - 85p of fashion 7.1 context Read from p10 to p30 7.1.1 Vietnam war 7.1.2 Hippy movement Google books links: 7.1.3 Conquest of the moon https://books.google.fr/books?id=Et4TMl0in_0C&printsec=fr 7.1.4 Charvet ontcover&dq=retail&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiAzsfT9KHKA 7.2 first brands of ready to wear hWFWxoKHePqC6EQ6AEIJzAB#v=onepage&q=retail&f=false 7.2.1 Chloé 7.2.2 Carven 7.2.3 Cardin 7.3 revolutions in art 7.3.1 Pop Art 7.3.1.1 Andy Warhol 7.3.1.2 Roy Lichtenstein 7.3.2 Nouveaux Réalistes 7.3.2.1 Yves Klein 7.3.2.2 Jean Tinguely 7.3.2.3 Arman 7.3.2.4 Niki de Saint Phalle 7.3.2.5 Jean Pierre Raynaud

7.3.2.6 César 7.3 first teenager movements 7.3.1 Mods 7.3.2 Greasers 7.4 - 60’s New generation of fashion designers: 7.4.1 Courrège 7.4.2 Paco Rabanne 7.4.3 Mary Quant 7.4.3.1 Vidal Sasoon 7.4.4 Yves Saint Laurent 7.5 Mai 68: new ideology 7.6 - 70’s New generation of fashion designers: 7.6.1 Kenzo 7.6.2 Sonia Rykiel 7.6.3 Vivienne Westwood 7.7 - 80’s the too much 7.7.1 Studio 54 (1977-1981) 7.7.1.1 Divine 7.7.2 Palace years (1978-1983) 7.8 - 80’s New generation of fashion designers: 7.8.1 Thierry Mugler 7.8.2 Castelbajac 7.8.3 Kenzo 7.8.4 7.8.5 Chantal Thomass 7.8.6 Maryvone Herzog

Week 8: SHORT QUIZ For next week: March 20th ‘Key numbers & visit’ GECZY Adam 8. Key numbers about different brands Fashion and Art 8.1 Inditex 2012, 241p 8.2 H&M 8.3 LVMH Read from p1 to p12 8.4 Gucci 8.5 Chanel google books link: 8.6 Lanvin https://books.google.fr/books?id=hUMfAAAAQBAJ&printsec= 8.7 Longchamp frontcover&dq=fashion+art&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi8pNq 8.8 Furla C8KHKAhVDOBoKHcqZDf4Q6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&q=fashion 8.9 Levi’s %20art&f=false 8.10 Wrangler 8.11 Mellerio 8.12 Chaumet 8.12 Cartier 8.13 Boucheron 8.14 Boucheron 8.15 Hermès 8.16 JPG

8.17 we are going to visit together the avenue Montaigne with all luxury shops to study their retail, their interior design, their strategy, and their references

Week 9: SHORT QUIZ March 27th For next week: ‘ Fashion versus Art in communication’ 9. When fashion uses a work of art as an PERES Michael inspiration: homage or communication effect? The Focal Encyclopedia of Photography 9.1 Hokusai (17620-1849) 2013, 845p 9.2 Van Gogh (1853-1890) 9.3 Arts & Craft (1860-1910) Read from p198 to p204 9.4 Klimt (1862-1918) 9.5 Schiele (1890-1918) google books link: 9.6 Gaudi (1904-1906) https://books.google.fr/books?id=NMJxyAwGvKcC&pg=PA19 9.7 Picasso (1881-1973) 9&dq=photographies+fashion&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=on 9.8 Kandinsky (1886-1944) epage&q=photographies%20fashion&f=false 9.9 Bahaus (1919-1933) 9.10 Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) 9.11 Matisse (1869-1954) 9.12 Mondrian (1872-1944) 9.13 Vasarely (1906-1997) 9.14 Salvador Dali (1904-1989) 9.15 Andy Warhol (1928-1987) 9.16 Jeff Koons 9.17 Damien Hirst 9.18 Yayoi Kusama

Week 10: SHORT QUIZ For next week: April 3rd ‘Contemporary photographers’ MAZZEO J 10. How is photography used to communicate The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the in the fashion world? World's Most Famous ... Important contemporary photographers: – 2010 -286p 10.1 Jean Paul Goude 10.2 Bjorn Giesbrecht Read from pXIII to XIX 10.3 Jacque Olivar 10.4 John Rawlings Google books Link: 10.5 Roberto Cavalli https://books.google.fr/books?id=AKmWBNpoSfYC&printsec= 10.6 Timothy Saccenti frontcover&dq=chanel+history&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjO 10.7 Toscani t- 10.8 Marcel Wanders a59qHKAhWFrRoKHTfHBNYQ6AEIIjAA#v=onepage&q=chanel 10.9 Avedon %20history&f=false 10.10 Tyen 10.11 JeanloupSieff 10.12 Guy Bourdin 10.13 Jacques Olivar 10.14 William Klein 10.15 Conde Nast

10.16 Horst 10.17 Valentin Perrin

Week 11: SHORT QUIZ For next week: April 10th ‘Contemporary communication for brands’ Watch “Goddess Guide’s Channel - A MORNING WITH PAUL SMITH” 11. How to create a communication strategy – 20 mn - 2012 – for a brand? Link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mY2WVBYcuvU 11.1 An old brand

11.1.1 Chanel - n°5 11.1.2 Cartier - Odyseum 11.1.3 Guerlain – Shalimar

11.2 A new brand 11.2.1 Coppelia Pique 11.2.2 Stephane Pagan 11.2.3 Liste Noire

11.3 A ghost brand 11.3.1 Schiaparelli 11.3.2 Worth 11.3.3 Jacques Fath 11.34 Jean Patou

Week 12: SHORT QUIZ April 21st ‘From the fashion designer to the designer’

12. How to imagine communication in fashion and art in the short future 12.1 The fashion show 12.2 Fashion week 12.3 The Art Fair 12.4 The web revolution 12.5 referenced advertising 12.6 When the Fashion designer became only designer 12.6.1 Pierre Cardin 12.6.2 Paul Smith 12.6.3 Karl Lagerfield

Final Exam week of April 24th, exact date TBA

REQUIRED READINGS: HISTORICAL CONTEXT: . APRAXINE Pierre - La Divine Comtesse: Photographs of the Countess de Castiglione -2000, 193p – Read from p89 to p155 Google books link: https://books.google.fr/books?id=iFCPHyL9PJoC&pg=PA79&dq=casati+castiglione&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q =casati%20castiglione&f=false

FASHION CULTURE: . Tungate Mark - Fashion Brands: Branding Style from Armani to Zara 2nd edition -2008, 263p – Read from p9 to p17 Google book link: https://books.google.fr/books?id=1C73D94TwNYC&printsec=frontcover&dq=fashion&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage &q=fashion&f=false

. STEELE Valerie – Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now – 1997 - 171p Read from p1 to p13 Google books links: https://books.google.fr/books?id=xqEt6Dpb4TYC&printsec=frontcover&dq=new+look&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj- haag56HKAhWG1hoKHaQhAJkQ6AEIMjAC#v=onepage&q=new%20look&f=false

. PERES Michael - The Focal Encyclopedia of Photography - 2013, 845p Read from p198 to p204 Google books link: https://books.google.fr/books?id=NMJxyAwGvKcC&pg=PA199&dq=photographies+fashion&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=on epage&q=photographies%20fashion&f=false

CHANGING STRATEGIES: . YOUNG Anthony - New York Cafe Society: The Elite Meet to See and Be Seen, 1920s-1940s - 2010, 212p Read from p4 to p8 Google books Link: https://books.google.fr/books?id=ol5iCQAAQBAJ&pg=PA127&dq=caf%C3%A9+soci%C3%A9ty&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi So-ud5KHKAhVDuRoKHZknDScQ6AEIUDAE#v=onepage&q=caf%C3%A9%20soci%C3%A9ty&f=false

. GECZY Adam - Fashion and Art -2012, 241p Read from p1 to p12 Google books link: https://books.google.fr/books?id=hUMfAAAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=fashion+art&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi8pN qC8KHKAhVDOBoKHcqZDf4Q6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&q=fashion%20art&f=false

. MESHER Lynne – Basics Interior Design 01: Retail Design– 2013 - 85p Read from p10 to p30 Google books links: https://books.google.fr/books?id=Et4TMl0in_0C&printsec=frontcover&dq=retail&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiAzsfT9KHKAh WFWxoKHePqC6EQ6AEIJzAB#v=onepage&q=retail&f=false

COMMUNICATION TODAY: . MAZZEO J- The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World's Most Famous ... – 2010 -286p Read from pXIII to XIX Google books Link: https://books.google.fr/books?id=AKmWBNpoSfYC&printsec=frontcover&dq=chanel+history&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjO t-a59qHKAhWFrRoKHTfHBNYQ6AEIIjAA#v=onepage&q=chanel%20history&f=false

DOCUMENTARIES All documentaries are accessible on YouTube • Goddess Guide’s Channel - A MORNING WITH PAUL SMITH – 20 mn - 2012 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mY2WVBYcuvU

• Secrets of Selfridges – 54 min - 2014 -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWlstWRC8WQ

RECOMMENDED READINGS: BOOKS • Robb YOUNG & Pamela GOLBIN - Power Dressing, Merrel, London, 2011, 192p

DOCUMENTARIES • “McQueen and I” – 46 mn- 2012-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNK2mKT8n9o