Cu/Fh 220 Art, Design & Fashion in France
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
CU/FH 220 ART, DESIGN & FASHION IN FRANCE IES Abroad Paris BIA DESCRIPTION: The course aims to enrich students’ general knowledge of the fields of art and fashion over the past century. Additionally we will work on key concepts in fashion advertising, by acquiring a base in the history of fashion and in the evolution of technics in fashion marketing throughout the twentieth century. Upon completion of this course, students will be able to anticipate trends. Furthermore, this course will allow students the opportunity to develop their creativity in the field of communication. CREDITS: 3 credits CONTACT HOURS: 45 hours LANGUAGE OF INSTRUCTION: English PREREQUISITES: None METHOD OF PRESENTATION: • Lecture • Class discussion REQUIRED WORK AND FORM OF ASSESSMENT: • Course participation - 10% • Short Quizzes - 30% • Midterm Exam - 30% • Final Exam – 30% Course Participation A short daily quiz will be given at the beginning of each class. Midterm Exam The Midterm will be a written exam given in class on Monday, October 17th, which will last for 1.5 hours. Final Exam The final exam will be an analysis of a fashion marketing campaign, which will last 1.5 hours. For example the movie "Reincarnation" made by made by Karl Lagerfeld, and exercises on notions mentioned in the courses. LEARNING OUTCOMES: By the end of the course students will be able to: • Know the major players in the fashion industry. • Articulate the main steps in the evolution of fashion advertising • Identify major actors in the world of fashion marketing and important new trends in the field. • Analyze fashion with appropriate technical vocabulary • Identify principal periods in the history of fashion ATTENDANCE POLICY: Since IES BIA courses are designed to take advantage of the unique contribution of the instructor and since the lecture/discussion format is regarded as the primary mode of instruction, regular class attendance is mandatory. Absences for documented medical problems or family emergencies will be excused. Absences for any other reason will not be excused. If you are absent due to illness, you will be asked to present a medical certificate. If a student shows a pattern in absences, in violation of this policy, students may be subject to an Academic Review including but not limited to a letter sent to their school and a probationary period or exclusion from the program. CONTENT: Week Content Assignments Week 1: HISTORICAL CONTEXT For next week: January 23rd Introduction APRAXINE Pierre – 1. Definition of « Haute Couture » and the La Divine Comtesse: Photographs of the Countess de movements that influenced French Castiglione society at the end of the XIXth and . 2000, 193p beginning of the XXth century Read from p89 to p155 1.1 the second colonization Google books link: 1.2 Ethnography and World exhibitions https://books.google.fr/books?id=iFCPHyL9PJoC&pg=PA79&d 1.3. Scientism and industrial revolution: q=casati+castiglione&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q the case of World Exhibition =casati%20castiglione&f=false 1.4 the Context: 1.4.1 Revival of the greek style 1.4.2 Dandysm 1.4.3 Crinolines 1.4.5 the fashion leader: Empress Eugenia 1.4.6 Who founded the “haute couture”: Charles Worth (1825- 1895) 1.5.Artistic movements which influenced the “haute couture” 1.5.1 Historicism: the case of Viollet le duc & Jones Owens 1.5.2 The Japonism in Europe 1.5.3 Shungas 1.5.4 Samuel Bing 1.5.4.1 Art Nouveau (1890- 1914) 1.5.6 Arts and crafts (c.1860 to 1910) 1.5.7 Aesthetism: the case of Huysmans 1.5.8 Russian Ballets 1.5.9 L’hygienism 1.5.10 The sports: the case of Olympic games 1.5.11 Beginning of communitarianism 1.5.12 Feminism Week 2: SHORT QUIZ For the next week: Tungate Mark - Fashion Brands: Branding Style from Armani January 30th ’Fashion icons between 1860 to 1914’ to Zara 2nd edition - 2008, 263p 1. Famous names who gave examples in Read from p9 to p17 fashion between 1860 to 1914 who are still references Google book link: 2.1 fashion icon : Castiglione (1837-1899) https://books.google.fr/books?id=1C73D94TwNYC&printsec=f 2.2 Fashion designer : Charles Worth rontcover&dq=fashion&hl=fr&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage& (1825-1895) founded the « Haute q=fashion&f=false Couture » 2.3 Fashion designer : Madeleine Laferrière (1847-1912) 2.4 Fashion designer : Jean Paquin (1891- 1956) 2.5 Fashion designer : Lady Daff-Gordon (1863-1935) who created the fashion show 2.6 Fashion designer: Paul Poirte (1879- 1944) who created the sportswer 2.7 Fashion designer: Jean Patou 2.8 Luisa Casati (1881-1957) 2.9 Loie Fuller (1862-1928) 2.10 Colette 2.11 Sarah Bernhard (1844-1923) 2.11.1 Alphonse Mucha 2.11.2 Lalique 2.12 Calamity Jane (1850-1903) 2.13 Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) 2.13.1 Aubrey Beardsley 2.14 Robert de Montesquiou (1855-1921) 2.15 Proust (1871-1922) 2.16 Mata Hari (1876-1917) 2.17 Isadora Duncan (1877-1927) Week 3: SHORT QUIZ For next week: February 6th ‘1914-1945’ Watch “Secrets of Selfridges” – 54 min – 3. Movements that influenced French society 2014:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWlstWRC8WQ between 1914 and 1945 3.1 Before the WI 3.1.1Revolution in art with Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) 3.1.2 Chicago school 3.2 fashion after the WI, or the revival of grek style 3.2.1 Fashion designer: Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) 3.2.2 Fashion designer: Madame Grès (1935-1986) 3.5 Black Tuesday 3.6 movement which founded during this period the “garçonnes” 3.7 Fashion designer: beginnings of Chanel 3.8 Revolution in architecture: Adolf Loss (1870-1933) 3.9 Consequences in arts with the Bahaus 3.10 Painter and fashion designer: Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) 3.11 the Art Déco movement 3.12 architecte: Le Corbusier (1887-1965) 3.12.1 Mallet Stevens 3.13 American fashion movement: The zoot movement 3.14 Zazou movement 3.15 the Edelweiss Pirates in Germany 3.15 stars in Hollywood studios 3.15.1 Marlène Dietrich (1901- 1992) 3.15.2 Vivien Leigh (1913-1967) 3.15.3 Ingrid Bergman (1915- 1982) 3.15.4 Greta Garbo (1905-1990) 3.15.5 Rita Hayworth (1917-1982) 3.15.6 Lauren Bacall born in 1924 3.15.7 Ginger Rogers (1911-1995) 3.16 - 1936 and the Popular Front Week 4: SHORT QUIZ February 20th ‘changing strategies’ 4. How to sell 4.1 Le Bon Marché 4.2 Old England 4.2 Selfridges 4.3 Galeries Lafayette 4.3.1 adviser: Jean Paul Gould 4.4 “Salon des Arts Ménagers” [1923- 1980] 4.5 Edouard Leclecq 4.6 Prisunic 4.7 Walmart 4.8 Interior designers 4.8.1 Dorothy Draper (1889- 1969) 4.8.2 Sister Prish (1910-1994) 4.8.3 Eero Saarinen (1910-1961) 4.8.4 Pierre Paulin (1927-2009) 4.8.5 Andrée Putman (1925- 1978) 4.8.6 Jacques Garcia 4.8.7 Buttazzoni 4.8.8 Chalan Minassian 4.8.9 Tristan Auer 4.8.10 François Joseph Graf 4.8.11 Pierre Yovanovitch 4.8.12 Alberto Pinto Week 5: SHORT QUIZ REVIEWS February 27th ‘ Café Society or the new opportunity to sell Read for next week: ‘Haute Couture’ STEELE Valerie – 5. Café Society or the new opportunity to sell Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now – 1997 - 171p ‘Haute Couture’ 5.1 Context: Read from p1 to p13 5.1.1 Gentlemen club in Paris 5.1.2 “Dîner de la Marmite” an Google books links: example of think tank between https://books.google.fr/books?id=xqEt6Dpb4TYC&printsec=fr 1873-1914 ontcover&dq=new+look&hl=fr&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj- 5.1.3 Cornet Club :1860-1934 haag56HKAhWG1hoKHaQhAJkQ6AEIMjAC#v=onepage&q=ne 5.1 Café Society: w%20look&f=false 5.1.1 definition 5.1.2 parties between 1920 to 1971 5.1.3 example of communication for these cultural events 5.1.4 V.I.P. who organized & participed: 5.1.4.1 : Etienne de Beaumont (1883-1956) 5.1.4.2 : Man Ray (1890-1976) 5.1.4.3 : Vicomtesse de Noailles (1876-1933) 5.1.4.4 : The Mitford Family 5.1.4.5 : Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) 5.1.4.6: Jean Cocteau (1889- 1955) (§ Orphée on youtube) 5.1.4.7 : Lady Mendl (1865- 1950) 5.1.4.8 : Hélène Rochas (1927- 2011) 5.1.4.9 : Wallis Simpson (1896-1986) 5.1.4.10 Comtesse Jacqueline de Ribes born in 1929 5.1.4.11 Baron Alexis de Redé (1922-2004) 5.4.4 Guy de Rothschild (1909-2007) 5.4.5 The Queen Elizabeth II (§ the first travel made in Paris by the Queen in 1958) Week 6: ‘ from the New Look to the ready to wear’ March 6th 6. from the New Look to the ready to wear 6.1 The Dior revolution 6.2 all fashion designers followed him 6.3 opposition with Chanel 6.3 Chanel, the opposition 6.4 Followers and new generation: 6.4.1 Balenciaga 6.4.2 Jacques Fath 6.4.3 Lucien lelong 6.4.4 Pierre Balmain 6.4.5 Nina Ricci 6.4.6 Mainbocher (1929-1971), American adventure 6.5 New Idea of communication : Elizabeth Arden 6.6 The ready to sell: the ready to wear 6.6.1 Chloé 6.6.2 Carvern Midterm Exam Monday, March 6th Week 7: SHORT QUIZ Read for next week: March 13th ‘ How the ready to wear changed the world of MESHER Lynne – fashion’ Basics Interior Design 01: Retail Design 7.