©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 358 architecture 19, 316 Grímsey 202 Arctic Fox Center 171 Arctic Fox Research Station 171 Hrísey 201 Arctic foxes 35, 37, 171, 276, 311, 36 Ingólfshöfði 276 Arctic Henge 234-5 Krýsuvíkurberg 94 Arctic terns 312 Látrabjarg 162 Ari the Learned 303, 323 Mývatn region 222-3 Arnarson, Ingólfur 46 Papey 261 Arnarstapi 153-4 Reykjavík 52 Arnarvatnsheiði 142 Sandgerði 93 Árnes (Norðurfjörður) 178 Skálanes 255 Árnes (Þjórsárdalur) 101-2 Skrúður 259 Árskógsströnd 201 Snæfellsjökull National Park 152 100 Crater Park 93 arts 315-20 Stykkishólmur 143 101 Reykjavík 316, 318 Ásatrú 324-5 Viðey 80 4WD tours 227, 236, 242, 282 Ásbyrgi 232-3 Bjarkalundur 159 Áshöfði 233 Bjarnarfjörður 177 Bjarnarflag 223-4 A Askja 217, 294-5, 293 Bjarnarhöfn 148-9 accommodation 20, 332-5, see also Askja Way 292-5 individual locations Ásmundarsafn 50 Björk 317 activities 22, 24, 32-8, see also ATMs 339 Bláa Kirkjan 251 individual activities aurora borealis 9, 25, 37, 59, 9, 179 Bláfjöll 57 Aðalból 247 Austurengjar 94 Blue Lagoon 6, 58, 88-9, 6-7 Age of Settlement 301 Austurvöllur 49 Blönduós 191-2 air travel 344, 345 boat tours, see also kayaking Akranes 135, 138 Heimaey 131-2 B Akureyri 203-15, Hvítárvatn 288-9 204-5 Baðstofa 153 accommodation 209-11 Ísafjörður 167-8 Bakkagerði 247-50 activities 207-9 Jökulsárlón 277 Bárðarlaug 153 drinking 212-13 Stykkishólmur 144-5 Básendar 93 emergency services 213 boat travel 345, 346 beaches entertainment 213 boating 32-3 Breiðavík 162 festivals 209 Bolungarvík 170 Hvallátur 162 food 211-12 books 298, 315-17 Ingjaldsandur 165 history 203 history 300, 303, 304, 305, 306 Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach 53 internet access 213 plants & animals 309, 313 Rauðasandur 162 medical services 213 Borg á Mýrum 139 Reynisfjara 118 shopping 213 Borgarbyggð 135-42 Snæfellsjökull National Park 152 sights 203, 206-7 Borgarfjörður 140-2 Vöðlavík 257 tourist offices 213-14 Borgarfjörður Eystri 11, 183, 247-50 beer 21, 201, 328-9 tours 209 Borgarnes 138-40, Beer Day 21, 329 138 travel to/from 214 Breiðafjörður 143 Bergþórshvoll 111 travel within 214 Breiðamerkurfjall 277 Bersekjahraunsvegur 148 Aldeyjarfoss 291 Breiðamerkursandur 276-7 berserkers 150 Álfaborg 248 Breiðárlón 277 Berserkjahraun 148 Álftavatn 123 Breiðavík 154-5, 162 Berufjörður 261 Almannagjá 96-7 Breiðdalsvík 260 bicycle travel, see cycling Alþing 96, 301-3 Breiðdalur 261 Bíldudalur 163-4 Alþingi 49 Brennisteinsalda 121-2 birds 37, 183, 270, 312, 182-3, see animals 18, 35, 37, 38, 183, 311-12, also individual species brennivín 329 , see also individual species 182-3 museums 223 breweries 201 books 309 birdwatching 37 Bridge Between Two Continents 93 Árbæjarlaug 53 Borgarfjörður Eystri 248 Brjánslækur 159 Árbæjarsafn 51 Dalvík 201 Bruggsmiðjan 201 196 Brunnar 162 Brunnhorn 284 000 Map pages 93 Flói Nature Reserve 105 Bræðslan 24, 249 000 Photo pages Garðskagi headland 92 Búðaklettur 154 359 Búðardalur 156 cinema 298, 318-19 economy 298, 299, 307-8 Búðavík 154-5 climate 16, 21-5, 336, 340 Egil’s Saga 139, 141, 316 budget 16, 17 Columbus, Christopher 153 Egilsstaðir 239, 242-5, 242 Búlandstindur 261 consulates 337 Einar Jónsson Museum 50 Búrfell hydroelectricity plant 102 costs 16, 17, 333 Eiríksstaðir 155-6 bus travel 346-7, 351 courses 63 Eistnaflug 23-4 Ring Road 31 craters, see volcanoes & craters Eldey 93 tours 59 credit cards 339-40 Eldfell 130, 131 e IN business hours 335 culture 299, 321-5 Eldfellshraun 131 D Byggðasafn 190 currency 340 Eldfjallasafn 143 Bæjarstaðarskógur 273 customs regulations 336 Eldhraun 223 X B-F cycling 31, 33, 252-3, 272, 345-6, 351 electricity 337 tours 52, 216-17 C Eliasson, Olafur 320 campervan hire 348-9 embassies 337 canyons D emergencies 341, 353 Ásbyrgi 232-3 Dagar Myrkurs 25, 243 Emstur 123 Drekagil 294 Dalir 155-7 environmental issues 314 Fjarðrárgljúfur 268 Dalvík 200-1 Erik the Red 156, 302 Kolugljúfur 191 dangers 340-1, 349-51 Erpsstaðir 156 car & motorcycle travel 17, 347-50 Days of Darkness 25, 243 Erró 320 driving licences 347 Deildartunguhver 141 Esja 135 Eskifjörður 256-8 F roads 31, 348, 350 Dettifoss 234, 10, 186 Fjallabak route 125 Dimmuborgir 221 etiquette 299, 325 hire 348-9 disabilities, travellers with 342 events, see festivals & events insurance 349 diving & snorkelling 35 exchange rates 17 internet resources 347 Eyjafjörður 207 Eyjafjallajökull 114, 180, 298-9, 308, parking 349 Grímsey 207 181 Eyjafjörður 207, 215 Ring Road 11, 30-1, 306, 10, 307 Reykjavík 56-7 Eyjan (Ásbyrgi) 232 river crossings 350 Þingvellir 97 Eyjan (Vesturdalur) 233 road distances 44, 85, 134, 158, djammið 74 Eyrarbakki 105 187, 238, 263 Djúpadalur 159 Eyrbyggja Saga 150, 316 road rules 349 Djúpalón 152 Eystrahorn 284 Rte 85 235 Djúpalónssandur 152 Rte 590 155 Djúpavík 177 Rte 870 235 Djúpivogur 261-2 F Rte 917 237 dolphins 38, 257, 312 F roads 31, 348, 350 safety 340, 349-50 Drangey 196 Faeroe Islands 78 Sprengisandur Route 290-2 Drangsnes 176-7 Fagrifoss 269 caves Drekagil 294 Fálkí 152 Kverkfjöll 295 drinks 328-9 Fáskrúðsfjörður 259-60 Lofthellir 217 Dritvík 152 ferry travel 345, 346 Loftsalahellir 117-18 driving, see car & motorcycle travel festivals & events 21-5, see also Raufarhólshellir 104 DVDs 338 individual festivals & locations Sönghellir 154 Dynjandi 164 films 298, 318-19 caving 57-9, 98 Dýrafjörður 165 Fimmvörðuháls 12, 116, 186, 12 cell phones 341 Dyrfjöll 250 financial crisis 298, 307, 308 children, travel with 335-6 Dyrhólaey 117-18 fishing 53, 149, 166, 201, 222, 227, Christianity 325 260, 261 churches industry 306-8 Akureyrarkirkja 203, 206 E Fjallabak route 125 earthquakes 94, 103, 229, 234 Bakkagerðiskirkja 249 Fjallsárlón 277 east 41, 238-62, 240-1 Dómkirkja 49 Fjarðrárgljúfur 268 accommodation 238 Hallgrímskirkja 46, 23 Flatey 148 food 238 Hólar í Hjaltadalur 197 Flateyri 165-6 highlights 240 Húsavíkurkirkja 225 Fljótsdalsheiði 246 eastern Húnaflói 190-2 Papey 261 Fljótshlíð 113 eastern Mývatn 221-2 Stykkishólmskirkja 143 Flói Nature Reserve 105 Eastfjords 247-62 Þingeyrar 191 Flókalundur 159 360 Flúðir 101 geothermal power 223, 224, 314 Hallmundarhraun 142 Fólksvangur Neskaupstaðar 258 geysers 98-9, 310-11 Hallormsstaðaskógur 245 Fontana 97-8 Geysir 98-9 handball 324 Fontur 236 Gjástykki 225 Harðráði, Harald 302 food 20, 326-30, see also individual Gjógv 78 Hårfagre, Harald 302 locations glaciers & ice caps 311 Harpa 48, 319 books 330 hikes & walks 33, 57 Hauganes 201 costs 328 Kvíárjökull 276 Haukadalur 165 e IN customs & celebrations 329 Mýrdalsjökull 117 health 337-8 D fish & seafood 326 safety 341 Héðinsfjörður 198 X hákarl 148-9, 327 Skaftafellsjökull 273 Heimaey 14, 128-33, 129, 14 F-H hot dogs 330 Snæfellsjökull 151-2, 180 Heitulækir 273 language 353 Sólheimajökull 57, 117 Hekla 109, 180, 181, 302 meat 327 Svínafellsjökull 275, 180 Helgafell (near Heimaey) 131 self-catering 330 Vatnajökull 180, 266, 282, 311, 180 Helgafell (Stykkishólmur) 147-8, 149 skyr 327 Öræfajökull 275 Helgustaðanáma 257 sweets & desserts 327-8 Glaumbær 194 Hella 109-11 vegetarians & vegans 330 glíma 324 Hellisgerði 81 football 323-4 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum 80 Hellisheiði 237 Foss á Siðu 268 Gljúfurárbui 113 Hellissandur 151 Fremrihnaukur 273 Glymur 135 Hellnar 153 Frostastaðavatn 122 Goðaborg 258 Hengifoss 245 frostbite 338 Goðafoss 215 Héraðssandur 237 Fræðasetrið nature centre 93 Goðaland 116, 126 Herðubreið 294, 293 fumaroles 311 Golden Circle 39, 58, 95-102 Herðubreiðarlindir 293-4 fungi 313 golf 198, 200, 209 Herjólfsdalur 131 graphic design 319 Herring Era Museum 198 G Greenland 77 Herring Festival 24, 198 galleries, see museums & galleries Grenivík 215 Hestir 78 gardens, see parks & gardens Grettir’s Saga 196, 316 hidden people 20, 81, 324 Garðskagi headland 92 Grettislaug 196 highlands, the 41, 285-96, 286-7 Garður 92-3 Grímsey 176, 202 highlights 286-7 Gauksmýri 191 Grímsvötn 271, 308 travel within 288 Gay Pride festival 24 Grindavík 93-4 hiking & walking 18, 33-4, 186 gay travellers 24, 73, 337 Grjótagjá 221 Akureyri 208-9 genetic research 323 Grótta 52 Ásbyrgi 233 geography 309-11 Grundarfjörður 149-50, 13 Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss 186, 232 geology 309-11 Grænalón 271 Askja Trail 292 geothermal areas, see also lagoons; Grænavatn 94 Borgarfjörður to Seyðisfjörður 249 pools, spas & hot-pots Guðmundsson, Guðmundur 320 Bæjarstaðarskógur 273 Austurengjar 94 Gullfoss 99 Dettifoss 234 Bjarnarflag 223-4 Gunnarsson, Gunnar 245-6 Dimmuborgir 221 Djúpadalur 159 Gunnuhver 93 Dyrfjöll 250 Hveragerði 102-3 Fimmvörðuháls 12, 116, 186, 12 Hveravellir 289 Goðaborg 258 Hverir 224 H Háafjall 194 Grænalón 271 Krafla 224-5 Haarde, Geir 308 Hekla 109 Kverkfjöll 295 Hafnaberg 93 Hellnar to Arnarstapi 154 Landmannalaugar 58, 121-2 Hafnarfjörður 81-4, Herðubreið 294 Reykhólar 159 82 Hafnarfjörður Viking Festival 22 Hlíðarfjall 223 Reykjadalur 103 Hafnarhólmi 248 Hljóðaklettar 233 Reykjavík 53 Hafnarhús 50-1 Hólmanes Peninsula 257 safety 341 Hafnir 93 Hólmatungur 233 Seltún 94 Hafursey 121 Hornstrandir Peninsula 173, 174, 7 Háifoss 102 Hringbrautin 290 Hvannadalshnúkur 275-6 000 Map pages hákarl 148-9, 327 Hvannagil 283 000 Photo pages Hallgrímskirkja 46, 23 Hveragerði 103 361 Kerlingarfjöll Loop 186, 290 Hólmáfossar 233 Höfn 279-83, 280 Krafla 224 Hólmanes Peninsula 257 Höskuldsstaðir 156 Kverkfjöll route 295 Hólmatungur 233-4 Landmannalaugar 121-2 Hólmavík 175-6 I Langanes 236 Hornbjarg 171 ice caps, see glaciers & ice caps Laugavegurinn (Landmannalaugar to Hornstrandir Peninsula 173-5, ice skating 57 Þórsmörk) 123-6, 186, 124, 186 172-3, 7 Iceland Airwaves 25 Lónsöræfi 283, 284 horse riding 35, 36

Iceland Design Centre 319 e IN Mjóifjörður 255 Akureyri 208

Iceland Phallological Museum 50 D Morsárdalur 273 Hella 110 Icelandic Horse History Centre 197 Mývatn region 216-17 Húsavík 227 X

Icelandic language 352-4 H-K Neskaupstaður 258 Hvammstangi 191 Icelandic names 322 Núpsstaðarskógar 271 Landmannalaugar 121 Illugastaðir 191 Nýidalur 291 Mývatn region 217 Imagine Peace Tower 80 Old Kjalvegur route 290 Neskaupstaður 258 immigration 344 Rauðanes 235 Pólar Hestar 215 Indriðason, Arnaldur 317 Rauðhólar 233 Reykjavík 55-6 Ingjaldsandur 165 Reykjanesfólkvangur 94 Varmahlíð 193 Ingjaldshóll 151 horse shows 193 Reykjavík 52, 57 Ingólfshöfði 276 horses 311 river crossings 340 insurance 338, 349 hot-pots, see pools, spas & hot-pots Royal Horn 174, 186 internet access 338 hot springs 310-11, see also safety 340-1 internet resources 17, 299, 342, 347 geothermal areas Seyðisfjörður 251-2 Ísafjarðardjúp 170-3 Hrafnkell’s Saga 247, 248 Siglufjörður 198, 12 Ísafjörður 166-70, Hrafnkelsdalur 247 168 Skaftafell (Vatnajökull National Íslendingabók 303, 323 Park – South) 272-3 Hrafnseyri 165 itineraries 26-9, 47, 184, 26, 27, 29 Snæfell 247 Hrafntinnusker 123 Stafafell 283 Hraundrangi 194 Stórurð 250 Hrauneyjar 291 J Valahnúkur Circle 127 Hrísey 201-3 Jaðarsvöllur 209 Vesturdalur 233-4 Hrossaborg 292 Jónsson, Ásgrímur 319 Þingeyri Peninsula 165 Hrútafjörður 190 Jónsson, Einar 50 Þingvellir 96 Hrútey 191 Jónsson, Rikarður 262 Þórsmörk 126-7 huldufólk 324 Jökulfell ridge 272 Hindisvík 191 Humarhátíð 22, 280 jökulhlaup 271 history 19, 300-8 Húnaflói 190-2 Jökulsá á Dal 247 2008 financial crisis 298, 307, 308 Húsafell 141-2 Jökulsá á Fjöllum 230 Alþing 96, 301-3 Húsavík 183, 225-30, 226 Jökulsárgljúfur 230-4, 231 books 300, 303, 304, 305, 306 Húsey 244 Jökulsárlón 9, 58, 277-8, 8 Danish rule 304 Húsið á Eyrarbakka 105 Hvalfjörður 135 independence 305-6 K Hvallátur 162 Sturlung Age 304 Kaldalón 172-3 Hvalsnes 93 US military presence 92 Kaldbaksvík 177 Hvammstangi 190 Vikings 301, 302 Kaldbakur 165 Hvammur 156-7 WWII 305-6 Kaldidalur Corridor 142 Hvannadalshnúkur 275-6 hitching 350-1 Kálfaströnd 222 Hvannagil 283 Hjálparfoss 102 Kántrý Dagar 24, 193 Hjarðarholt 156 Hveragerði 102-4, 103 Kántrýbær 193 Hjörleifshöfði 121 Hverasvæðið 103 Kárahnjúkar 246 Hlíðarendi 113 Hveravellir 289 Karl og Kerling 233 Hlíðarfjall 223 Hverfell 216, 221 Katla 119, 180 Hljóðaklettar 233 Hverir 224 Katla Geopark 119 Hnjótur 162 Hvítárvatn 288-9 kayaking 32-3, see also boat tours HNLFÍ Health Clinic & Spa 103 Hvítserkur 191 Ísafjarðardjúp 171-2 Hof 276 Hvolsvöllur 111-13 Ísafjörður 167, 168 hydroelectricity 102, 246, 314 Hofsós 197 Seyðisfjörður 252-3, 11 hypothermia 338 Hólar í Hjaltadalur 196-7 Stokkseyri 106 holidays 340 Höfði 221-2 Keflavík 89-92, 90 362 Keldur 111 Landmannalaugar 58, 121-2, 2-3, 184 marimo balls 223 Kerið 101 Landnámabók 303, 323 measures 338 Kerlingarfjöll 14, 289, 15 Langanes 235-6 Meðallandssandur 270 Kerlingarfjöll Loop 186, 290 language 352-4 medical services 337-8 Ketildalir 164 Látrabjarg bird cliffs 162 Melanes 162 Ketildyngja 216 Látrabjarg Peninsula 162-3 Melrakkaslétta 235 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 266-8 Laufás 215, 19 Menningarmiðstoð Kópavogs 81 Kirkjufell 149 Laugafell 291 Menningarnott 24, 23 e IN Kistan 178 Laugar 156-7 midges 216 D Kjalvegur 288-90 Laugar Spa 53 midnight sun 22 X Kjarnaskógur 207 Laugarás 100 military bases 92 K-M Kjarval, Jóhannes Sveinsson 249, Laugardalslaug 53 Mjóifjörður (east Iceland) 255 319-20 Laugardalur 51, 184 Mjóifjörður (Westfjords) 172 Kjarvalsstaðir 51 Laugarvatn 97-8 mobile phones 341 Kjölur route 288-90 Laugavegurinn (Landmannalaugar Móði 180 Klappir 233 to Þórsmörk) hike 123-6, 186, money 16, 17, 339-40 Klaustursel 247 124, 186 Morsárdalur 273 Kleifarvatn 94 lava fields Mosfellsbær 80 Kolugljúfur 191 Berserkjahraun 148 motorcycle travel, see car & Kópasker 234 Dimmuborgir 221 motorcycle travel Kópavogur 81 Eldhraun 223 mountain biking 252-3, 272 Krafla 224-5, 218-19 Hallmundarhraun 142 museums & galleries Kristínartindar 273 Krafla 224-5 Akureyri Museum 206 Krossneslaug 178, 185 Lakagígar 269 Árbæjarsafn 51 Krýsuvík 94 Ódáðahraun 292 ASÍ Art Museum 51 Krýsuvíkurberg 94, 95 Raufarhólshellir 104 Birdland Exhibition 201 Kverkfjöll route 295-6 lava tunnel tours 57-9 Bustarfell 236 Kvíárjökull glacier 276 Laxá river 222 Byggðasafnið Hvoll 200 Laxdæla Saga 155, 316 Centre for Visual Arts 206 Laxness, Halldór 80, 317 Culture House 225 L legal matters 338-9 Einar Jónsson Museum 50 Lagarfljót 245-6 Leif the Lucky 302 Eldfjallasafn 143 Lagarfljótsormur 245 Leirhnjúkur 218-19, 224 Fransmenn á Íslandi 259 lagoons, see also geothermal areas; pools, spas & hot-pots lesbian travellers 24, 73, 337 Gallerí Fold 51 Lindarbakki 248 Gallerí Snærós 260 Blue Lagoon 6, 58, 88-9, 6-7 Listahátið í Reykjavík 22 Gerðarsafn Art Museum 81 Jökulsárlón 9, 58, 277-8, 8 Listasafn Árnesinga 103 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum 80 Lakagígar 269 Listasumar á Akureyri 23 Hafnarfjörður Museum 81-2 lakes literature 315-17, see also books Herring Era Museum 198 Frostastaðavatn 122 Lítlanesfoss 245 Húsavík Whale Museum 225 Grænalón 271 Litlibær 171 Húsið á Eyrarbakka 105 Grænavatn 94 Lítlihöfði 131 i8 51 Hvítárvatn 288-9 Ljótipollur 121 Iceland Phallological Museum 50 Kerið 101 Lofthellir 217 Icelandic Aviation Museum 206-7 Kleifarvatn 94 Loftsalahellir 117-18 Icelandic Emigration Center 197 Lagarfljót 245 Lón 284 Icelandic Folk & Outsider Art Laugarvatn 97-8 Lóndrangar 152 Museum 215 Mývatn 215 longhouses 316 Icelandic Folk Music Centre 198 Systravatn 266 Lónkot 197 Icelandic Horse History Centre Þingvallavatn 97 Lónsöræfi 283-4 197 Þórisvatn 291 lopapeysur 80, 213 Íslenska Striðsárasafnið 256 Öskjuvatn 295 Lystigarðurinn 207 Kjarvalsstofa 249 Laki 267, 269 Lögberg 96 Kling & Bang 51 Landeyjahöfn 113 Listasafn Árnesinga 103 Mánárbakki Museum 230 M Menningarmiðstoð Kópavogs 81 magazines 338 Map pages Minjasafn Austurlands 239 000 Magni 180 000 Photo pages Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & maps 339 Witchcraft 175-6 363 National Gallery of Iceland 51 Vatnajökull National Park 11, 230-4, calendar of events 21-5 National Museum 49 266, 272-5, 314 children, travel with 335-6 Nonnahús 207 Vatnsfjörður Nature Reserve 159 Iceland basics 16-17 NÝLO 51 Þingvellir 96-7, 314 Iceland’s regions 39-41 Reykjavík 871 +/-2 48 Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach 53 internet resources 17 Reykjavík Art Museum 50 necropants 175 itineraries 26-9, 184 Reykjavík Museum of Neshraun 152 Ring Road travel 30-1 Photography 50 Neskaupstaður 258-9 travel seasons 16 Safnahúsið 258 newspapers 338 plants 309, 312-13 e IN D Saga Museum 49 Night of Lights 89 poetry 108, 316 Selárdalur 164 Njál’s Saga 111, 112, 275, 276, 316 polar bears 312 X Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 223 Njarðvík 89 politics 298, 308 M-P Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum 51 Njarðvíkurskriður 250-1 Pollurinn 163 Sjóminjasafn Austurlands 257 Norðfjörður 258-9 pools, spas & hot-pots 6, 19, 35, Skógar Folk Museum 115 Norðurfjörður 178 184-5, see also geothermal areas, Studio Umbra 51 Norðurnámur 121 lagoons Sögusetriðis 111 Norse Eddas 108 Akureyri 207-8 Tryggvasafn 258 Norse religion 324-5 Árbæjarlaug 53 turf farms 194 north Iceland 40, 187-237, 188-9 Blue Lagoon 6, 58, 88-9, 6-7 Tækniminjasafn Austurlands 251 accommodation 187 Deildartunguhver 141 Víkin Maritime Museum 50 food 187 Drangsnes 176 Westfjords Folk Museum 167 highlights 188-9 Egilsstaðir 239 Þjóðmenningarhúsið 49 northeast circuit 234-7 etiquette 325 Þórbergssetur 278 Northern Lights 9, 25, 37, 59, 9, 179 Fontana 97-8 music 298, 317-18 northern Mývatn 223-4 Grettislaug 196 festivals 23-4, 25, 193, 242, 249, Núpsstaðarskógar 271 Hafnarfjörður 82-3 258-9 Núpsstaður 271 HNLFÍ Health Clinic & Spa 103 Mykines 78 Nýidalur 291 Húsavík 227 Mýrdalsjökull 117 Nyrðrihnaukur 273 Hveravellir 289 Mýrdalssandur 121 itineraries 184, 184 Mývatn Nature Baths 216, 185 Kópavogur 81 O Mývatn region 215-25, 218-19 Krossneslaug 178, Ódáðahraun 292 185 activities 216 Oddi 108 Landmannalaugar 121, 184 history & geology 215-16 Ofanleitishamar 131 Laugar Spa 53 tours 216-17 Ólafsfjörður 199-200 Laugardalslaug 53 travel to/from 217 Ólafsson, Sigurjón 51 Laugarvatn 97-8 travel within 217 Ólafsvík 150-1 Lýsuhólslaug 154 Mælifell 120-1 opening hours 335 Mývatn Nature Baths 216, Möðrudalur 237 outlaws 289 185 Pollurinn 163 overgrazing 314 N Reykjavík 53 Námafjall 224 Selárdalslaug 236 National Day 22 P Seljavallalaug 114 painting 319-20 National Gallery of Iceland 51 Seyðisfjörður 253 Papey 261 National Museum 49 Stykkishólmur 144 parks & gardens, see also national Sundhöllin 53 national parks & nature reserves parks & nature reserves 314 Sundlaugin á Hofsós Austurvöllur 49 Álfaborg 248 197 Kjarnaskógur 207 Flói Nature Reserve 105 Tálknafjörður 163 Lystigarðurinn 207 Fólksvangur Neskaupstaðar 258 Vesturbæjarlaug 53 Reykjavík Botanic Gardens 51 Herðubreiðarlindir 293-4 Þjórsárdalslaug 102 Skrúður 165 Hólmanes Peninsula 257 population 298, 299, 321-2 passports 342 Hrútey 191 postal services 340 Patreksfjörður 159, 163 Ingólfshöfði 276 pseudocraters 222 Perlan 49 Lónsöræfi 283-4 ptarmigan 201 phonecards 341 Skálanes 255 public holidays 340 planning, see also individual regions Snæfellsjökull National Park puffins 15, 22, 37, 131, 183, 248, 151-2, 314 activities 32-8 312, 15 budgeting 16, 17 364 Q Reynisfjara 118 Sjómannadagurinn 22 quad biking tours 52 Rif 151 Sjónarnípa 273 Ring Road 11, 30-1, 306, 10, 307 Sjónarsker 273 river crossings 350 Skaftafell 272-5, 273 R Royal Horn 174, 186 Skaftafellsheiði Loop 273 radio 338 Rte 1, see Ring Road Skaftafellsjökull 273 rafting 57, 100, 192-3, 288 Rte 85 235 Skagaströnd 193 Rauðanes 235 Rte 590 155 Skálanes 255

e IN Rauðasandur 162 Rte 870 235 Skálholt 100

D Rauðfeldsgjá 154 Rte 917 237 Skallagrímsgarður 139

X Rauðhólar 233 runtur 203 Skallagrímsson, Egill 139

Q-S Raufarhólshellir 104 Skansinn 130-1 Raufarhöfn 234-5 Skarðsvík 152 reindeer 311-12 S Skeiðarársandur 270, 271 religion 299, 324-5 safety 340-1, 349-50 skiing réttir 24 Saga Age 303 Akureyri 209 Reyðarfjörður 256 Saga Museum 49 Oddsskarð 257 Reykhólar 159 sagas 315, 316 Ólafsfjörður 200 Reykholt (Golden Circle) 100 Egil’s Saga 139, 141, 316 Reykjavík 57 Reykholt (upper Borgarfjörður) 140-1 Eyrbyggja Saga 150, 316 Seyðisfjörður 253-4 Reykir 196 Grettir’s Saga 196, 316 Skarðsdalur 198 Reykjadalur 103 Hrafnkell’s Saga 247, 248 Skógafoss 115 Reykjahlíð 218-21 Njál’s Saga 111, 112, 275, 276, 316 Skógar 115, 117 Reykjanes Peninsula 88-95, 88 Laxdæla Saga 155, 316 Skriðuklaustur 245-6 Reykjanesbær 89-92 Saknussemm, Arne 151 Skrúður (east Iceland) 259 Reykjanesfólkvangur 94-5 salmon fishing 222 Skrúður (Westfjords) 165 Reykjarfjörður 172, 177 Saltverk Reykjanes 172 skuas 270, 276 Reykjavík 39, 44-84, 45, 54-5, 60-1, sandar 270-1 Skútustaðagígar 222 3, 13, 28 Sandfell 259 Skútustaðir 222 accommodation 44, 63-7 Sandgerði 93 skyr 327 activities 52-63 sandstorms 340-1 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling drinking 13, 72-3 Sauðaneshús 235 Snorralaug 141 entertainment 73-4 Sauðárkrókur 194-5 Snorrastofa 140-1 festivals & events 21, 22, 24-5, 63 Saurbær 135 snowboarding 57, 209 food 44, 68-72 Saxhöll 152 snowmobiling 33, 57, 153-4, 282 highlights 45 scenic flights Snæfell 246-7 history 46 Mývatn region 217 internet access 76 Reykjavík 62-3 Snæfellsjökull ice cap 151-2, 180, 180 itineraries 47 Skaftafell 274 Snæfellsjökull National Park 151-2, 314 medical services 76 sculpture 320 Snæfellsnes Peninsula 13, 58, 142-55, 144-5, 13, 36 shopping 74-80 seals 37, 190, 191, 312, 183 Snæfellsstofa 246 sights 46-52 Sel 273 Snæfjallaströnd 172-3 tourist offices 76-7 Selárdalur 164 Sólheimajökull 117 tours 52-63 Selfoss 106-8, 107 southeast Iceland 41, 263-84, travel to/from 77 Seljalandsfoss 113-14 264-5 accommodation 263 travel within 77-9 Seljavallalaug 114 food 263 Reykjavík 871 +/-2 48 Seltjarnarnes 51-2 highlights 264-5 Reykjavík Art Museum 50 Seltún 94 southern Mývatn 222 Reykjavík Botanic Gardens 51 senior travellers 338 southwest Iceland 39, 85-133, 86-7 Reykjavík International Film Festival Seyðisfjörður 11, 251-5, 252-3, 11 accommodation 85 24-5 shopping 339, see also individual Reykjavík Jazz Festival 24 locations food 85 Reykjavík Marathon 24 lopapeysur 80, 213 highlights 86-7 Reykjavík Museum of Photography 50 Sigfússon, Sæmundur 108 spas, see pools, spas & hot-pots speedboating 57 Reynisdrangur 118-19 Siglufjörður 198-9, 12 Sigur Rós 317 sport 323-4 Sigurðardóttir, Jóhanna 308 Sprengisandur Route 290-2 000 Map pages Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 223 Staðarskáli 175 000 Photo pages Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum 51 Stafafell 283 365 Stafnsnes 131 Tjörnes Peninsula 230 14, 128-33, 183 Stakhólstjörn 222 Tjörnin 48 Vestrahorn 284 Stakkatorfa 235 Tófugjá 233 Vesturbæjarlaug 53 Stakksholtsgjá 127 Tórshavn 78 Vesturdalur 233-4 Stapafell 154 tourist information 341-2 video systems 338 Stefánshellir 142 tours 38, see also individual tour Viðey 80 Steinasafn Petru 260 types 167 Stokkseyri 106 4WD tours 227, 236, 242, 282 Vík 118-20 Stóragjá 221 Askja 292-3 Víkin Maritime Museum 50 e IN Stóraklif 130 boat 131-2, 144-5, 167-8, 277, 288-9 Víkingaheimar 90-1 D Stóra-Mörk III 114 bus 59 Vikings 301, 302 X Stórhöfði 131 caving 57-9, 98 Vindbelgjarfjall 222 S-W Stórihver 122 cycling 52, 216-17 Virkisfell 295 Stórurð 250 diving 56-7 visas 342 Strandir Coast 175-8 Heimaey 131-2 Víti (Askja) 295 Strokkur 98 ice climbing 57 Víti (Krafla) 224 Sturlung Age 304 Kverkfjöll 296 volcanoes & craters 309-10 Sturluson, Snorri 108, 140, 141 Laki 269 Askja 294-5 Stykkishólmur 143-7, 146 Northern Lights 59 Búðaklettur 154 Stöðvarfjörður 260 quad biking 52 Eldfell 130, 131 Stöng 102 Reykjavík 52-63 Eyjafjallajökull 114, 180, 298-9, Súðavík 171 scenic flights 62-3, 217, 274 308, 181 Suðureyri 166 Skaftafell 273-4 Grímsvötn 271, 308 Súgandisey 143 snowmobiling 57, 153-4, 282 Heimaey 130 Sumardagurinn Fyrsti 21-2 travel to/from Iceland 344-5 Hekla 109, 180, 181, 302 Sumartónleikar í Skálholtskirkju 23 travel within Iceland 345-51 Helgafell 131 Summer Arts Festival 209 trekking, see hiking & walking Hrossaborg 292 Sun-Craft 49-50 trolls 20, 176 Hverfell 216, 221 Sundhöllin 53 Tröllahellir 233 Katla 119, 180 supernatural, the 20, 81, 324 Tröllaskagi Peninsula 12, 196-203, 12 Ketildyngja 216 133 Tungustapi 157 Krafla 224-5 Surtshellir 142 turf houses & farms 19, 196, 215, Lakagígar 269 247, 19 Svartifoss 272-3, 28 Laki 267, 269 museums 194 Sveinsson, Ásmundur 50 Leirhnjúkur 218-19, 224 Svínafell 275 Ljótipollur 121 Svínafellsjökull 275, 180 U Rauðhólar 233 Svödufoss 151 Urriðafossar 233 Snæfell 246-7 Svörtuloft bird cliffs 152 Útstekkur 257 Vatnsborg 152 swimming 35, see also geothermal volunteering 171, 342-3 areas; lagoons; pools, spas & Vopnafjörður 236-7 hot-pots V vacations 340 Vöðlavík 257 Systrafoss 266 Vaðalfjöll 159 Systrastapi 266 Valahnúkur 93 Systravatn 266 W Valahnúkur Circle 127 walking, see hiking & walking Sögusetriðis 111 Varmahlíð 192-4 walking tours 52, 57 Sönghellir 154 VAT tax 333 waterfalls 20 Vatnajökull ice cap 180, 266, 282, Aldeyjarfoss 291 T 311, 180 Dettifoss 234, 10, 186 Tálknafjörður 163 Vatnajökull National Park 11, 266, 314 Dynjandi 164 tanneries 195 North (Jökulsárgljúfur) 230-4, 231 Fagrifoss 269 taxes 333 South (Skaftafell) 272-5, 273 Foss á Siðu 268 taxis 351 Vatnsborg 152 Gljúfurárbui 113 telephone services 341 Vatnsfjörður Nature Reserve 159 Glymur 135 time 341 Vatnshellir 152 Goðafoss 215 Tindafjöll 113 Vatnsnes Peninsula 190-1 Gullfoss 99 Tindastóll 196 vegetarians & vegans 330 Háifoss 102 Tindfjöll Circle 127 Veiðivötn 291 Hengifoss 245 tipping 340 Verslunarmannahelgi 24 Hjálparfoss 102 366 waterfalls continued Hauganes 201 Þjórsárdalslaug 102 Hólmáfossar 233 Húsavík 225-7, 229 Þjórsárdalur 101-2 Lítlanesfoss 245 Ólafsfjörður 200 Þórbergssetur 278 Mjóifjörður 255 Reykjavík 53-5 Þorbjarnardóttir, Guðriður Seljalandsfoss 113-14 whales 15, 229, 312, 182 153 Skógafoss 115 museums 225 Þórðarson, Þórbergur 278 Svartifoss 272-3, 28 whaling 308, 313 Þorgilsson, Ari 303 Svödufoss 151 white-water rafting 57, 100, 192-3, e IN Þórisvatn 291 Systrafoss 266 288 D Þorlákshöfn 104-5 Urriðafossar 233 wildlife 18, 35, 37, 38, 183, 311-12,

X Þorrablót 21, 327 weather 16, 21-5, 336, 340 182-3, see also individual animals W-Ö Þórshöfn 235 weights 338 Winter Lights Festival 21, 23 Þórsmörk 58, 126-8 west Iceland 40, 134-57, 136-7 women in Iceland 323 accommodation 134 wrestling 324 food 134 WWII 305-6 Æ highlights 136-7 Ævintýraland 249 western Mývatn 222-3 Þ western Skagafjörður 192-6 Þingeyrar 191 Ö Westfjords 6, 40, 158-78, 160-1, 7 Þingeyri 164-5 Ögur 171-2 accommodation 158 Þingvallavatn 97 Öndverðarnes 152 food 158 Þingvellir 96-7, 314 Önundarfjörður 165 highlights 160-1 Þjóðhátíð 24, 132 Öræfajökull 275-6 Westfjords Folk Museum 167 Þjóðlagahátíð á Siglufirði 23 Öskjuleið route 292-5 whale watching 22, 38, 183 Þjóðmenningarhúsið 49 Öskjuvatn 295 Dalvík 201 Þjóðveldisbær 102 Öxnadalur 194

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 356

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Brandon Presser the last edition and wrote to us with help- A huge thank you to three very special people: ful hints, useful advice and interesting Manny, Pálli and Nanna Hlín – I couldn’t have anecdotes: done it without you. Takk fyrir to the inspir- Irisa Albion, Greg Barbutti, Paul Bennett, ing Vilborg Árna, the intrepid Siggi Bjarni, Amy Billings, Greta Maria Bjornsdottir, Maja the thoughtful Sigursteinn, and to Ester Rut, Branovacki, Douglas Buck, Benoit Cambron, Bergþór Karlsson, Rósa Björk, Kristján Páls- Ling Chan, Natalie Cherchas, Dan Chiasson, son, Gústaf Gústafsson, Addý Ólafssdóttir Kit Conn, Lianne Damen, Inge De Kort, Clive and Jón Trausti. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Deacon, Paul Dest, Silke Diedenhofen, Anke everyone on the editorial and production team Dijkhuis, D Drake, Elisabet Engdahl, Val Feath- who helped put this book together, especially erby, Irini Gavrielidou, Mario Giaquinto, Steve Katie, Kristin, Fran, Sasha and James. A mas- Glennie-Smith, Koen Goorman, Maria Gough, sive thank you to Joanne for always being Elísa Gyrðisdóttir, Julia Haag, Marije Hettinga, there, and finally to Carolyn Bain, my genius Ben Hosford, Jelly Julia, Trip Kennedy, Steph- coauthor, for the endless laughs and Pinochet anie Klempfner, Martin Kooiman, Matthias candy. Kranke, Alastair Learmont, Jenny Littlefield, Janine Luck, Siobhan Madden, Meghan Carolyn Bain Makielski, Coco Manson, Ilse Marien, Ruben Huge thanks to Katie O’Connell at Lonely Planet Mooijman, Christian R Musil, Serge Nadeau, Ivo for commissioning me for my dream job, and Nemec, Karvel Ogmundsson, Mary Paul, to Yarctic explorer Jenny Blake for coming to Dalia Petersil, Laurel Plewes, Juri Rebkowetz, play for a few days in Niceland. I could list half Charles Scheim, Sam Simonds-Gooding, the Icelandic phonebook given the number Katarzyna Skawińska, Pétur Snaebjornsson, of friendly, generous and wise locals who Marijana Sostaric, Pnina Spector, Rebecca helped me out on this trip – instead, I’ll say a Stephany, Lucy and Stuart Stirland, Ondrej sincere takk fyrir to everyone, but especially to Valina, Pieter Van Der Woude, Matt Vitug, Bergþór Karlsson, Ásbjörn Björgvinsson, Co- Kristi Weidlein, Ed Weiss, Simon Wickens, sima Zewe, Regína Hreinsdóttir, Helga Árnadót- Moritz Ziegler, Hrafnhildur Ævarsdóttir tir, Sigrún Lóa Kristjánsdóttir, Arny Bergsdóttir, Egill and Sæmundur Þór Sigurðsson, Kristján 357 at Glacier Jeeps, Mirjam and Halldóra, Emilia Katie O’Connell and Kristin Odijk for patience and Juan Carlos, Kiwis Karen and Diane, and in the face of procrastination. Heartfelt Cathy Josephson. Finally, my heartfelt grati- thanks to Erpur S Hansen of Náttúrustofa tude goes to my coauthor and friend, Bran- Suðurlands for such an articulate and com- don Presser. BP, from trip planning in Tallinn prehensive overview of Icelandic bird life. to the Djúpavík welcome and the Blue Lagoon debrief, it’s been a pleasure working with you. T N h B

A million thanks for your professional gener- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS E osity, for sharing your local knowledge and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, I contacts, for support during write-up, and for Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated D the many laughs along the way. World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate H

Fran Parnell Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System E

Sciences, 11, 163344. S

Thanks to fellow authors Brandon Presser C Cover photograph: Strokkur geyser, Geysir; and Carolyn Bain for all their input, and to E Richard I’Anson/LPI N

Lonely Planet’s in-house team, particularly E S

Coordinating Editors Austin, Pat Kinsella, Rosie THIS BOOK Carolyn Boicos, Kristin Odijk Nicholson, Christopher Pitts This 8th edition of Lonely Coordinating Cartogra- Cover Research Planet’s Iceland guidebook pher James Leversha Naomi Parker was researched and written Coordinating Layout Internal Image Research by Brandon Presser, Carolyn Designer Mazzy Prinsep Chris Girdler Bain and Fran Parnell. The 7th Managing Editor Sasha Language Content edition was written by Fran Baskett Branislava Vladisavljevic and Brandon, and the 6th edi- Joe Bindloss, tion was written by Fran and Senior Editors Andi Jones, Thanks to Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Etain O’Carroll. This guidebook Catherine Naghten Larissa Frost, Trent Paton, was commissioned in Lonely Managing Cartographers Kirsten Rawlings, Raphael Planet’s London office, and Anita Banh, Adrian Persoglia Richards, Jessica Rose, Kerri- produced by the following: Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart anne Southway, Gerard Walker, Commissioning Editor Clifton Wilkinson Katie O’Connell Assisting Editors Janet ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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