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1 The Best of

On each trip to Iceland, we are always struck by how often other travelers are—or intend to be—repeat visitors. Many come year after year, never exhausting Iceland’s endless variations of magnificent scenery and adventure. Returning travelers immedi- ately recognize the crisp, invigorating polar air, and what W. H. Auden called “the most magical light of anywhere on earth.” Iceland’s astonishing beauty often has an austere, primitive, or surreal cast that arouses reverence, wonderment, mystery, and awe. Lasting impressions could include a lone tuft of wildflowers amid a bleak desert moonscape or a fantastical promenade of icebergs calved into a lake from a magisterial glacier. The Icelandic people—freedom-loving, egalitarian, self-reliant, and worldly—are equally exceptional. They established a parliamentary democracy over a millennium ago, and today write, publish, purchase, and read more books per capita than any peo- ple on earth. Reykjavík, their capital, has become one of the world’s most fashionable urban hot spots. In November 2007, the U.N. named Iceland the world’s best coun- try to live in, based on life expectancy, education levels, medical care, income, and other criteria.

1 The Best Natural Wonders • : Iceland’s tallest is • Blue Lagoon: The central activity nimble and graceful: Streamlets at this spa—Iceland’s top tourist descend like ribbons of a maypole attraction—is bathing in a shallow, into a fathomless canyon mantled in opaque, blue-green lagoon amid a bird nests and lush mosses. The hike jet-black lava field and smearing there is somewhat treacherous, but white silica mud all over yourself. those who brave it are rewarded with The lagoon was artificially created enchanting scenery—and possibly from pumped-in seawater and runoff total solitude—all within easy range from a geothermal power plant—not of Reykjavík. See p. 138. exactly a natural wonder, but it could • : This astounding waterfall make you feel like one. See p. 150. crownsCOPYRIGHTED and climaxes the “Golden Cir- • Raufarhólshellir: MATERIAL With the right cle,” Iceland’s most popular day tour preparations and precautions, anyone from the capital. Gullfoss looks almost can just saunter right into this lava- too perfectly landscaped to be real: tube cave and wander more than a 3 The Hvitá river hurtles over a low tier, kilometer ( ⁄4 mile) to its darkest turns 90 degrees, plunges into a cloud depths, past eerie ice candles and tor- of spray, and shimmies offstage tured lava formations. See p. 161. through a picturesque gorge. Clear • Látrabjarg: These colossal sea cliffs skies guarantee a rainbow. See p. 146. at Iceland’s westernmost point prove 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 2

2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ICELAND Iceland

Arctic Circle HornbjargHornbjarg Sandvík Hraunhafnartangi LLátraráttrarrar Grímsey Rauðinúpur DenmarkDenmark AAðalvíkðaalvlvík Horn Raufarhöfn str ARCTICA R C T I C OOCEANC E A N SæbSSæbólæból an Fontur StraitStrait ÍÍsafjarðardjúp d BolungarvBBolungarvíkolungarvík ssafjara lfirðir ir Þistilfjörður fja Jöku ReykjarfjRReykjarfjörðureykjarfjörörðurur rð Kópasker ardjar BolungarvíkBolungarvík dj úp Öxarfjörður SuðureyriSuðureyri DrangaDDrangajökullrangajökullkull Þórshöfn ÍsaÍÍsafjörðursafjörðurfjörður Siglufjörður Flatey FlateyriFlateyri Bakkaflói SúðavíkSúðavík Ólafsfjörður Skjálfandi á 635 NorðurfjörðurNorðurfjörður d n 61 MMálmeyálmeylmey a Bakkafjörður 60 745 SkagaSSkagafjö 76 S k Ásbyrgi ArnarfjAArnarfjörður ReykjanesReykjanes GGjGjögurjögurgur a Hrísey Húsavík r ÞingeyriÞingeyri g n Skagheiði a Tröllaskagi a DjDDjúpavíkjúpavpavík fjf Dalvík Árskógssandur r j PatreksfjPPatreksfjörð fj KaldbakurKaldbakur HHúnaflóiúnnaflaflói ö Jökulsárgljúfur a ör rrð tr ð 61 ð HofsósHofsós Hauganes ek uru uru National Park Vopnafjörður s r 643 SkagaströndSkagaströnd TindastTTindastöllindastöllll r fj DynjandiDynjandi StaðurStaður ör Vopnafjörður ðuru Eilífur á r BíldudalurBíldudalur SauSSauðárkrókurauðárkrókurárkrókur Svalbarðseyri el HólmavíkHólmavík S Héraðsflói TálknafjörðurTálknafjörður 60 DrangsnesDrangsnes BlönduósBlönduós Krafla BBreiðavíkreireiðavíkavík 612 Bakkagerði FlFFlókalundurlókalundurkalundur 75 Reykjahlíð BrjánslBBrjánslækurrjánslækuækur DjDDjúpidalurjúpidalurpidalur ÓsarÓsar Goðafoss (Borgarfjorður 1 Eystri) LLátrabjargátrabjargtrabjarg 605 Hrossaborg sá Háafjall of Dyrfjöll CliffsCliffs 61 711 HHópópóp VarmahlíðVarmahlíð Mývatn Hverfell H á J r ö ReykhólarReykhólar a k HvammstangiHvammstangi ð á u r k l 722 BlandaB V a s s

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THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS 3

Arctic Circle Hornbjarg SandvíkSandvík HraunhafnartangiHraunhafnartangi Látrar GrímseyGrímsey RauðinRRauðinúpurauðinúpurpur Aðalvík A R C T I C O C E A N 85 RaufarhöfnRaufarhöfn Sæból FonturFontur Strait Bolungarvík Melrakkaslétta Ísa ÞistilfjörðurÞistilÞistilfjfjörðuurr fj ökulfirðir ar J Reykjarfjörður KópaskerKópasker ða Langanes Bolungarvík rd 869 júp ÖxarfjörðurÖxarfjxarfjörðurur Suðureyri Drangajökull ÞórshöfnÞórshöfn Ísafjörður SiglufSSiglufjörðuriglufjörðurjörður FlateyFlatey 867 Flateyri BakkaflBBakkaflóiakkaflói Súðavík ÓlafsÓÓlafsfjörðurlafsfjörðurfjörður SkjSSkjálfandikjálfandilfandi á Norðurfjörður Tjörnes d 85 n Málmey Í Fjörðum a BakkafjörðurBakkafjörður S 82 S k ÁsbyrgiÁsbyrgi A Reykjanes Gjögur a HríseyHrísey HúsavíkHúsavík r Þingeyri g n a a Djúpavík f DalvíkDalvík ÁrskógssandurÁrskógssandur r j 85 P fj Kaldbakur Húnaflói ö 85 JökulsárgljúfurJökulsárgljúfur 864 a örð rð tr Hofsós HauganesHauganes ek u u NationalNational PParkark VopnafjörðurVopnafjVopnafjörðurur s r Skagaströnd Tindastöll r fj Staður 82 örð VopnafjörðurVopnafjörður u EilEEilífurilíffurur á r Bíldudalur Sauðárkrókur SvalbarðseyriSvalbarðseyri DettifossDettifoss el 87 SeláS HHéraðsflóiéraraðssflflói Tálknafjörður Hólmavík 1 KraflaKrafla Breiðavík Drangsnes Blönduós 917 BakkagerðiBakkagerði Flókalundur AkureyriAkureyri ReykjahlíðReykjahlíð Brjánslækur Djúpidalur Ósar GoðafossGoðafoss (Borgarfjorður(Borgarfjorður Eystri)Eystri) Látrabjarg HrossaborgHrossaborg 85 sá HáafjallHáafjallafjall of DyrfjöllDyrfjDyrfjöllöll Cliffs Hóp Varmahlíð MývatnMývatn HverfellHverfell F88 H á J r ö Reykhólar a k ð á u 1 94 r k l V B a s s

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4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ICELAND that the “ends of the earth” come with massive curtain of milky-gray glacial a bang, not a whimper. The sheer vol- water thundering over a 44m (144- ume of birds is unbelievable, and the ft.) precipice. To stand next to it is as puffins are particularly willing to have mesmerizing as it is bone rattling. their picture taken. See p. 191. See p. 270. • Hornbjarg: These sea cliffs in Ice- • Fja∏rárgljúfur: Iceland has several land’s far northwest aren’t easy to dramatic gorges, but this one’s spiky reach, but pilgrims are treated to the crags and vertiginous ledges virtually most arresting sight on the country’s summon the mystics and landscape entire coastline. An undulating, razor- painters. Fja∏rárgljúfur is close to the backed ridge is etched against the sky: Ring Road, near the village of On its inland side, a steep slope Kirkjubæjarklaustur in south Iceland, scoops down to a meadowed plateau; and the trail along the rim is a breeze. on its opposite side is a sheer 534m See p. 309. (1,752-ft.) drop to the sea. See p. 212. • Laki Craters: This monstrous row of • Aldeyjarfoss: In northwest Iceland, over a hundred craters, lined up along at the doorstep of the desolate high- a 25km (16-mile) fissure, is scar tis- lands, these pummeling falls crash sue from the most catastrophic vol- into a bizarre theater of columnar canic eruption in Iceland’s history. basalt. If you saw it in a science fic- Velvety coatings of grey-green moss tion movie, you might think they soften Laki’s terrible, bleak beauty. were overdoing it. See p. 250. See p. 309. • Hverfell: Of all the monuments to • Jökulsárlón: Hundreds of sediment- Iceland’s volcanism, this tephra streaked, blue-tinted icebergs, seem- explosion crater near M;vatn is the ingly the work of some mad sculptor, most monolithic: a jet-black bowl of waltz around this surreal glacial lagoon humbling proportions, with a stark, in the southeast, while seals join in the elemental authority. See p. 253. carnival procession. See p. 316. • Leirhnjúkur: In a country with no • Askja: This staggering whorl of vol- shortage of primordial, surreal land- canic mountains, circling an 8km- scapes, this lava field in the Krafla wide (5 mile) bowl formed by caldera of northeast Iceland out- collapsed magma chambers, is one of weirds them all. An easy trail wends Earth’s grandest pockmarks and the its way among steaming clefts, each most sought-out destination in Ice- revealing a prismatic netherworld of land’s desolate highland interior. Visi- mosses and minerals. See p. 254. tors can swim in a warm, opaque • Dettifoss: Europe’s mightiest water- blue-green pond at the bottom of a fall, located in northeast Iceland’s steep crater: a real “if my friends could Jökulsárgljúfur National Park, is a see me now” moment. See p. 359.

2 The Best Towns & Villages • Su∏ureyri: This traditional yet eco- fishing boat crew may not be your conscious fishing village in the West- idea of a fun vacation—but these are fjords is pioneering a tourism model authentic cross-cultural experiences that welcomes visitors into the daily you’re unlikely to forget. See p. 196. work rituals of Icelandic life. Touring • Ísafjör∏ur: The Westfjords region is a fish-processing factory or joining a almost a country unto itself, and its 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 5

THE BEST BIG-NAME HIKES 5 honorary capital has real vibrancy would have made this list for its setting despite its remoteness and small (and cute puffin population) alone. Its population. Credit the phenomenal distinctive local identity and heroic setting, thriving harbor, first-rate din- resilience in the aftermath of a devas- ing, hip cafes, and festivals ranging tating 1973 eruption only add to its from alternative music to solo theater luster. See p. 245. performance—and even “swamp soc- • Vík: This southernmost village in Ice- cer.” See p. 198. land wears its fine setting lightly, but • Siglufjör∏ur: With a single road lead- its landscape stays vividly etched in ing in, this isolated, untouristy fjord the mind: the lovely beaches of black town has a picture-perfect setting and volcanic sand, the spiky sea stacks off- an endearing nostalgia for its herring- shore, and on the neighboring Reyn- boom glory days—case in point, the isfjall cliffs, the most scenic walk on ambitious Herring Era Museum— Iceland’s south coast. See p. 303. and fabulous hiking. See p. 225. • Sey∏isfjör∏ur: The arrival point for • Akureyri: With a university, several European ferry passengers, and a fash- museums, fine dining, a distin- ionable summer retreat for Icelandic guished summer arts festival, lively artists, this dramatically situated East- downtown pedestrian streets, and fjords village has a cosmopolitan pulse active nightlife, this northern capital’s that squares perfectly well with its tiny 17,000 inhabitants think they have scale and pristine surroundings. everything Reykjavík has—minus the Chalet-style wooden kit homes from rainy weather. See p. 230. the 19th and early-20th centuries pro- • Heimaey: As the only town in the gor- vide a rare architectural historicity, geous Westman Islands, Heimaey— and the country’s first telegraph sta- surrounded by magnificent sea cliffs tion is now an interesting technology and two ominous volcanic cones— museum. See p. 340.

3 The Best Big-Name Hikes • Hornstrandir Nature Reserve: This the Norse god Ó∏inn’s eight-legged saw-toothed peninsula, the northern- steed. Each bend of the river brings a most extremity of the Westfjords, is succession of delights on a more for travelers whose eyes instinctually human scale: honeycombed basalt, roam to the farthest corners of the woolly willows, cascading springs. map. Protected since 1975, Horn- See p. 266. strandir has no roads, no airstrips, • Landmannalaugar: Your friends may no year-round residents—only the refuse to believe that your photos of beguiling coastline, flowering mead- Landmannalaugar’s astonishing rhyo- ows, and cavorting birds and foxes lite mountains—with marbled streaks the Vikings first encountered over a of yellow, red, green, white, and purple millennium ago. See p. 210. scree—weren’t “digitally enhanced.” • Jökulsárgljúfur National Park: This It’s not only the most celebrated hiking elongated canyon park formed by area in Iceland, but also the ideal Iceland’s second-longest river is book- launch point for the Laugavegurinn, a ended by Dettifoss, Europe’s mighti- world-renowned 4-day trek to Pórs- est waterfall, and Ásbyrgi, a U-shaped mörk through a cavalcade of inland ravine reputed to be the hoof print of scenery. See p. 289 and 292. 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ICELAND

• Pórsmörk: This verdant alpine oasis, • Skaftafell National Park: Close to the encircled by monumental glaciers and “Ring Road” (Rte. 1) on the southern river-braided valleys of silt, has the aura edge of Vatnajökull, Skaftafell is the of an enchanted refuge—a nice coun- most accessible of Iceland’s major hik- terpoint to the distinctly Martian ing destinations, with startling pano- appeal of most interior regions. The ramas of serrated peaks, shimmering Fimmvör∏uháls, an equally charmed icecaps, and barren flood plains 2-day trek threading a high mountain stretching toward the sea. At your feet pass between two glaciers, connects is pleasant scrubland resplendent with Pórsmörk to Skógar near the south wildflowers and butterflies. See p. 313. coast. See p. 298 and 300.

4 The Best Hikes Off the Beaten Track • Sveinstindur–Skælingar: Landman- • Lónsöræfi: Wonderfully removed nalaugar unjustly steals the limelight from civilization, this private nature from many nearby interior regions, reserve in the mountains east of Vat- most notably this amazing stretch of najökull is paradise for hikers who mountains and sediment-filled river enjoy lingering over each unfolding valleys between Landmannalaugar nuance along the trail: the subtle and Vatnajökull. Views from the peak spectra of a rhyolite rockslide; the of Sveinstindur over the glacier- ubiquitous and river chasms; gouged Lake Langisjór are among the the fine textures of moss and lichen most otherworldly and sublime in all and tiny wildflowers. Reindeer could of Iceland. See p. 292. make a cameo. See p. 324. • Pakgil: This idyllic campsite and its • Borgarfjör∏ur Eystri: This well- mountainous setting near the south- rounded coastal region combines east edge of M;rdalsjökull are sure to many geological marvels found in the become better known. Pakgil itself is interior—particularly rhyolite moun- in a perfectly sheltered, stream-fed tainsides and their marbled color gully. The surrounding tuff moun- patterns—with an abundance of tains, formed from compacted vol- flowering plants and the romantic canic ash, have been elaborately melancholy of its formerly inhabited sculpted by wind and water erosion; fjords and inlets. Locals have put trails lead right to the moraines of the great effort into designing maps, receding glacier. And with a brand- marking trails, and organizing Jeep new crop of snug cabins, you don’t tours of the area. See p. 345. even have to rough it. See p. 304. • Kerlingarfjöll: A short detour from • Núpssta∏arskógar: Accessible only the relatively accessible Kjölur Route to rugged 4WD vehicles and com- through the interior, this mountain mitted hikers, this magical enclave of cluster in the shadow of Hofsjökull scrubby birch, sculpted gorges, and has an astonishing range of scenery: luxuriant waterfalls along the Núpsá lofty mountains, chiseled ravines, river is virtually untouched by exotic geothermal fields, glimmering tourists. If you can’t get there on the icecaps. . . . The clinchers are the hot ground, consider an exhilarating aer- springs that form enormous natural ial tour from the Skaftafell airfield. Jacuzzis and the pleasant, private See p. 311 and 314. lodgings at Ásgar∏ur. See p. 355. 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 7

ICELAND’S BEST MUSEUMS 7 • Kverkfjöll: Deep within Iceland’s Though best-known for a mesmeriz- highland desert interior, this geother- ing glacial ice cave, Kverkfjöll is any- mally restless mountain spur pro- thing but a one-hit natural wonder trudes from Vatnajökull amid charred and merits 2 or 3 days to appreciate expanses of red, brown, and black its austere gravitas. See p. 362. rock dusted with lichen and moss.

5 Iceland’s Best Museums • Harbor House Museum (Reykjavík; • Settlement Center (Borgarnes; & 590-1200; www.artmuseum.is): & 437-1600; www.landnam.is): Born Gu∏mundur Gu∏mundsson in With state-of-the-art multimedia 1932, Erró—the most prominent exhibits dedicated to Egils Saga and Icelandic artist of the late 20th cen- the first 60 years of Icelandic settle- tury—has donated most of his life’s ment, this engaging new museum tries work to this contemporary art branch almost too hard to turn learning into a of the Reykjavík Art Museum. The kind of amusement park fun house— exhibit spaces are inside a 1930s-era but we’re not complaining. See p. 168. warehouse perfectly suited to the • Glaumbær (Skagafjör∏ur; & 453- vast, cartoon-styled montages for 6173; www.glaumbaer.is): Iceland which he is best known. See p. 113. has several museums inside preserved • National Museum of Iceland (Reyk- 19th- and early-20th-century turf- javík; & 530-2200; www.natmus.is): roofed farm buildings; but, if you see This museum’s permanent but ever- just one, make it Glaumbær in the evolving exhibit, “The Making of a northwest. Fish-skin shoes and other Nation,” covers the entire span of Ice- fascinating artifacts are on view, but landic history and culture. You might the most affecting moments are when anticipate a numbing encyclopedic you imagine the smell of burning survey, but the curators’ selective peat and the sounds of the family restraint manages to say more with clan puttering about these dark, less. Look out for impromptu appear- damp, and snug rooms through the ances by a youth choir singing haunt- long winters. See p. 222. ing scores from the past. See p. 115. • Museum of Small Exhibits (Near • Einar Jónsson Museum (Reykjavík; Akureyri; & 463-1261; www.sma- & 551-3797; www.skulptur.is): The munasafnid.is): “I collect old things,” work of Iceland’s most revered sculp- explains Sverrir Hermannsson, the tor draws heavily on classical mythol- eccentric carpenter behind this ogy and traditional folklore, with a strange and unique museum. Sverrir virtuosic command of gesture and has meticulously culled, categorized, ingenious meshings of human and arranged, and mounted all sorts of beastly forms. His romantic symbol- things—hammers, kettles, record- ism is sometimes difficult to inter- player needles, belt buckles—in an pret, but never fails to carry deep art of pattern, repetition, and varia- emotional and spiritual resonance. tion. The objects themselves may be Einar spent as long as 10 years per- ordinary and worthless, but as he fecting his works, many of which are cryptically notes, “The thought alone displayed exclusively here. See p. 115. can be of aesthetic value.” See p. 248. 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ICELAND

• Safnasafni∏ (Near Akureyri; & 461- most visitors to Húsavík take a 4066; www.safnasafnid.is): The cura- whale-watching tour, giggle at the tors of this inspiring art museum jarred penises in the Phallological comb the country for what they call Museum, and depart. Nothing wrong “honesty,” ignoring conventional dis- with that, but you might take some tinctions between contemporary art, time to enjoy the fascinating range of folk art, and “naïve” art. The museum regional artifacts on display here, is not anti-elitist so much as immune from a stuffed polar bear to necklaces to all aesthetic dogma. Whatever the made from human hair. See p. 261. grounding principles, the results are • Skógar Folk Museum (Skógar; compelling: Exhibits could spotlight & 487-8845; www.skogasafn.is): anything from women’s needlework- This is without a doubt the greatest of ing tools and wooden figurines whit- Iceland’s many folk museums, with an tled by a farmer to fine photography enormous artifact collection ranging and sculpture. See p. 249. from fishing boats to carved head- • Húsavík Museum (Húsavík; & 464- boards and makeshift mousetraps. Let 1860; www.husmus.is): Gu∏ni Hall- the staff lead you around; otherwise, dórsson, the intense and tireless cura- you won’t know what the hollow fish- tor of this prolific folk museum in bone was used for. See p. 302. northeast Iceland, is used to seeing

6 The Best Accommodations for Local Flavor • Hotel Glymur (Hvalfjör∏ur; & 430- down with an evening stroll on the 3100; www.hotelglymur.is): This styl- beach, followed by a drink at ish retreat is just 45 minutes from Europe’s westernmost bar. See p. 194. Reykjavík and 90 minutes from the • Faktorshúsi∏ í Hæstikaupsta∏ international airport—but feels worlds (Ísafjör∏ur; 456-3868; gistias@snerpa. away, especially when surveying the is): In the heart of the Westfjords’ hap- fjord from the vantage point of the hot pening capital, this painstakingly tub. The rooms, all duplexes, were restored 1788 house—with just one smartly remodeled in 2006. See p. 140. top-floor guest room—is as steeped in • Hótel Bú∏ir (Snæfellsnes Peninsula; Icelandic history as anyplace you’re & 435-6700; www.budir.is): This likely to encounter outside a museum. country-contemporary boutique hotel See p. 202. with an estimable restaurant is sur- • Heydalur Country Hotel (Ísafjar- rounded by nothing but ocean, broad ∏ardjúp; & 456-4824; www.heydalur. sandbanks, sprawling lava, stone ruins is): With a majestic fjord and friendly of fishermen’s huts, and a restored seal colony, this rustic farm retreat in 19th-century church, with Snæfell- the Westfjords has everything you sjökull loftily presiding over the need to craft a perfect day: horseback scene. See p. 182. riding, fishing, sea kayaking, home- • Guesthouse Brei∏avík (Látrabjarg cooking, and a blissful outdoor hot peninsula; & 456-1575; www. pool. See p. 206. breidavik.net): Around the corner • Hótel Djúpavík (Strandir Coast; from Iceland’s largest sea cliff, this & 451-4037; www.djupavik.com): warm and welcoming farmstay is in a Beautifully situated along the wild breathtakingly picturesque bay with and remote Strandir Coast, this for- Mediterranean-hued waters. Wind mer boarding house for seasonal 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 9

THE BEST ICELANDIC RESTAURANTS 9 herring workers is so warmly and • Fljótsdalur Youth Hostel (Markar- authentically connected to its past that fljót valley; & 487-8498; www.hostel. any luxury deficits are irrelevant. Orig- is): This charmed, turf-roofed hide- inal driftwood boards creak underfoot, away is nestled deep within the and the decaying herring factory Markarfljót valley, on the cusp of Ice- looms wistfully nearby. See p. 209. land’s interior. All beds are in bunk • Hótel Tindastóll (Sau∏árkrókur; rooms and the amenities are few— & 453-5002; www.hoteltindastoll. but, with civilization left safely behind, com): Each large, handsome room in things couldn’t be cozier. See p. 296. this lovingly restored 1884 Norwe- • Guesthouse Egilssta∏ir (Egilssta∏ir; gian kit home is an ideal synthesis of & 471-1114; www.egilsstadir.com): luxury and provincial charm. The Few travelers linger in Egilssta∏ir, the natural-stone hot pool in back is the transit hub of east Iceland, but for the finishing touch. See p. 228. many who pass through, this lovely • Hótel Reykjahlí∏ (M;vatn; & 464- manorial farmhouse offers sumptu- 4142; www.reykjahlid.is): Perched ous rooms, a fine restaurant, lake right on Iceland’s most celebrated views, and—that rarity of rarities—a and scenic lake, this stately country shady grove of tall trees. See p. 334. hotel has an understated elegance • Hótel Aldan (Sey∏isfjör∏ur; & 472- complemented by a first-rate restau- 1277; www.hotelaldan.com): Recent rant. See p. 256. refurbishment of this 19th-century • Country Hotel Anna (west of Skógar; Norwegian kit building struck an & 487-8950; www.hotelanna.is): An exquisite balance of period restora- appealing interlude for road trips tion and sleek modern design. Aldan along the south coast, this intimate is easily the Eastfjords’ most captivat- hotel is an ideal blend of an upscale ing hotel, in the region’s most capti- B&B and a rural farmstay, though vating village. See p. 344. prices reflect the former. See p. 305.

7 The Best Icelandic Restaurants • Sjávarkjallarinn (Seafood Cellar) most refined wine list—speak for (Reykjavík; & 511-1212): Culinary themselves. See p. 102. conservatives may distrust this restau- • Salt (Reykjavík; & 599-1020): rant’s radical experimentation and Housed in the minimalist-chic Radis- splashy presentation—lobster with son SAS 1919 Hotel, this recent truffles served in a Mason jar? But the entry has a prize-winning celebrity Seafood Cellar would be Iceland’s chef, but the menu—emphasizing best restaurant even if the food came natural flavors and traditional crowd- in Styrofoam containers at a drive- pleasers like trout with lemon and thru window. See p. 99. capers, or tenderloin with crispy • Fjalakötturinn (Reykjavík; & 514- potatoes and béarnaise sauce—is any- 6000): Traditional yet worldly (for an thing but an ego trip. See p. 102. appetizer, think smoked lamb carpac- • Vi∏ Tjörnina (Reykjavík; & 551- cio with chutney and celery root salad), 8666): If smoked lamb’s heart, fer- this stellar restaurant has a plain white mented shark, and salt-cod mousse dining room with a few photos of old can be made palatable, leave it to the Reykjavík on the wall. No glam appeal, maverick chefs at this offbeat Reyk- but the cooking—and the country’s javík institution. (Don’t worry: The 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ICELAND lamb fillet in port wine sauce is just as house on Iceland’s southwestern exceptional.) Check the wall for the coast. See p. 165. chefs’ “band photo,” and ask for a bag • Tjöruhúsi∏ (Ísafjör∏ur; & 456- of leftover bread to feed the ducks in 4419): Tucked away in an 18th- the pond outside. See p. 103. century fish warehouse, this no-non- • Prír Frakkar (Reykjavík; & 552- sense Westfjords restaurant serves up 3939): The hallmarks of a “real Ice- amazingly fresh and tasty pan-fried landic restaurant” are all here: nauti- fish without the slightest fuss or pre- cal decor; a wide selection of fresh tense. Ask the cook if the fish is ever seafood and seabirds, always comple- frozen and you’ll get a look of utter mented by potatoes, familiar vegeta- horror. See p. 204. bles, and rich sauces; and there’s • Fri∏rik V (Akureyri; & 461-5775): nothing dainty about the portions or This family-run affair, offering an presentation. See p. 103. impressive variety of modern European • Fjörubor∏i∏ (Stokkseyri; & 483- preparations, is the best restaurant out- 1550): Icelanders drive long dis- side the capital—and it’s written all tances—and sometimes even drop in over the faces of the waitstaff, who by helicopter from Reykjavík—to deliver lectures on each dish with well- butter their bibs at this famed lobster earned, unconcealed pride. See p. 238.

8 The Best of Iceland Online • www.icelandreview.com: Iceland • www.nat.is: The homepage of Review is an online magazine that Nordic Adventure Travel delivers on strikes a fine balance between serious its cheery promise: “We cover every- journalism and touristic concerns; the thing you are coming to enjoy! The travel articles are great for scouting des- whole island is air conditioned!” The tinations. All previous issues are endless links are particularly helpful archived and searchable, and a free for those planning a fishing, hunting, print version can be found in cafes and or hiking adventure. Click the trail hotel rooms across the country. The icons on a national map, and detailed site links to What’s On Iceland (www. trail maps and descriptions appear. whatson.is), excellent for catching • http://blog.icelandexpress.com/ wind of scheduled events. iceland: This blog, run by budget air- • www.samkoma.com: Samkoma, line Iceland Express, is titled “How which means “meeting place,” was set Do You Like Iceland?”—a question up to foster interchange between Ice- visitors are asked continuously. Entries landers and Canadians of Icelandic are much more informed, candid, descent, but it also contains the Inter- and amusing than you’d expect from net’s best collection of Iceland-related an airline website. links. • http://kort.bok.hi.is: Antique Maps • www.grapevine.is: The Grapevine, of Iceland has high-resolution digital a free left-wing magazine found all files of vintage, pre-1900 maps of Ice- over Iceland, is a terrific resource for land. Some 16th- and 17th-century reviews of art, music, dining, shop- maps include great captions for sea ping, and trips within Iceland. All monsters popping their heads out of issues are archived and searchable the ocean. One reads, “He hath been online. seene to stand a whole day together 04_178416-ch01.qxp 5/29/08 8:59 AM Page 11

THE BEST OF ICELAND ONLINE 11 upright upon his taile . . . and greed- Icelandic Music Export (IMX), is a ily seeketh after mans flesh.” great way to sample the country’s • www.edjackson.ca/19thcentury music scene. Features include news, iceland: Ed Jackson is a connoisseur events, downloadable videos, pod- of rare and long-forgotten Iceland casts, and links to homepages of Ice- travelogues, and his website Travels landic artists. The Icelandic Music in 19th Century Iceland presents Page (www.musik.is) is another absorbing extracts with period photo- excellent site with links for musical graphs and illustrations. Entries are events throughout the country. cross-indexed by location (Reykjavík, • www.halfdan.is/vestur/vestur.htm: Pingvellir, and so on) and themes The Emigration from Iceland to such as dress, customs and manners, North America is the best site for and children. non-Icelanders of Icelandic descent • www.icelandicmusic.is: This new to trace their ancestry and find living government-sponsored site, titled relatives.