ICELAND The Insiders' Guide

Your guide to Iceland’s scenic wonders, top adventures, and must-do experiences by our local experts. Contents Overview

Contents Surrounds& Reykjavik

Overview 3 East Iceland 32 Top 10 Experiences in Iceland 3 The Highlands 34 Climate and Weather 5 Where to Stay 6 Vatnajökull National Park 36 Getting Around 7 Adventure in the National Park 38 Greater Cultural Highlights 8 Iceland Pronunciation Guide 10 Adventure in Iceland 39 Best Side Trips 11 Camping 40 Responsible Tourism 13 Hiking and Trekking 41 Visa Information 14 Diving, Kayaking, and Rafting 42 National Park National Winter Activities 44 Vatnajökull Reykjavik and Surrounds 15 Caves and Glaciers 45 Reykjavik Must See and Do 16 Iceland's Hot Springs 47 Nightlife 18 How to See the Northern Lights 48 Day Trips 19 Where to See Wildlife 50 Adventure

Greater Iceland 21 Essential Insurance Tips 51 Outdoor South Iceland 22 Our Contributors 52 West Iceland 25 See Our Other Guides 53 Northwest Iceland 27 Get a Quote 54 North Iceland 29

2 Welcome! From thundering waterfalls to Viking legends to the mesmerizing Northern Lights, Iceland is for lovers of nature and culture alike – and despite its chilly name, you won’t find friendlier people anywhere.

Our Insiders' Picks Contents of the Top 10 Westfjords Experiences Akureyri in Iceland Lake Mývatn Overview Stand behind a waterfall Snaefellsnes Peninsula

East Fjords Iceland features stunning waterfalls Vatnajökull Þingvellir National Park of all sizes and descriptions, but at National Park Reykjavik Seljalandsfoss, in South Iceland,

you can actually walk behind the Surrounds& Reykjavik curtain of water. Vik

Swim between two continents Go inside a volcano At the Silfra Fissure in Þingvellir National Take a cable car into the massive Park, you can snorkel or scuba dive in the magma chamber of the volcano Greater crack between the North American and Þríhnúkagígur – the only place in Iceland Eurasian continents. Fed by Langjökull the world where this experience glacier, the water in the fissure is is possible. Don’t worry – it’s been famously clear, with exceptional visibility. dormant for 4,000 years. National Park National Sink neck-deep in Vatnajökull a hidden hot spring Natural hot springs are everywhere in this geothermal country, and if you’d prefer to soak in solitude rather than among the throngs Adventure

at the Blue Lagoon, head to the Outdoor secluded Lanbrotalaug spring on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula or Hörghlíðarlaug, overlooking the sea in Blue Lagoon the Westfjords.

3 Explore an ice cave The astounding cave in Langjökull glacier is the largest man-made ice cave in Europe – but for walls and formations of a truly stunning electric blue, visit the Crystal Ice Cave within Vatnajökull glacier. Contents Walk on a black sand beach Landscapes don’t get much more impressive than Reynisfjara, on the Southern coast. Competing with the black sand for your amazement is an enormous cliff made of volcanic Overview basalt columns. Off shore are the rock formations called Reynisdrangar, said Hvitserkur to be trolls turned to stone by the breaking of dawn.

Vatnajökull is so vast that it covers not Surrounds& Go paddling with puffins one, but several, active volcanoes. The Reykjavik For walls Kayakers on gorgeous Breiðafjöður views are epic as you cross this massive and Bay in West Iceland are likely to have ice field and explore its ridges and formations close encounters with these adorable cravasses. of a truly birds, along with seals and even stunning whales. Gaze at the Aurora Borealis Greater

electric Iceland Winter nights are long in Iceland – blue, visit Hike on one of Europe’s all the more time to view nature’s the Crystal largest glaciers greatest light show. The Northern Ice Cave The biggest glacier in Iceland, Lights are visible here from mid- within September to early April. National Park National

Vatnajökull Vatnajökull glacier. Join the Djamm (Party) in Reykjavik Reykjavik is world-renowned for its nightlife, and the party doesn’t even get started until after midnight. After Adventure

mingling with the townsfolk and Outdoor sampling Brennivin (aka “Icelandic Black Death”) at local institution Prikið, head to Paloma, the best place to dance till daybreak.

4 Climate and Weather Iceland’s climate is surprisingly mild, and despite what many think, the country experiences four distinct seasons. However, Contents the popular Icelandic joke “If you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes” is entirely accurate – weather in Iceland is very unpredictable. Overview Spring Beginning in April, spring breathes life Godafoss, in the Diamond Circle back into the country, and longer days melt snow to reveal verdant green fields.

Though most of the country is safely brown, and orange. Storms batter the Surrounds& accessible, sunny days can quickly turn to countryside, leaving behind a crispness Reykjavik Summer rain or even snow. Temperatures hover in the air, and temperatures linger is best for between 32-50°F (0-10°C). It's a great between 32-50°F (0-10°C). exploring time to explore popular spots around This is one of the best times to the furthest the south coast and Golden Circle circuit catch the northern lights dancing over reaches of without the summer crowds. Iceland’s surreal landscapes, especially Greater the country, Iceland at Kirkjufell Mountain or Jökulsárlón including Summer Glacier Lagoon. the June signals the start of the Icelandic uninhabited summer, bringing with it the most Winter highlands stable weather and long, sunny days. Stretching from November until National Park National

which are Vatnajökull Temperatures can reach up to 68°F March, the dark winter months are the inaccessible (20°C), but spells of misty rains can also stormiest, bringing with them snow for the rest bring it back down to a chilly 50°F (10°C). and ice that close smaller roads and of the year. Summer is best for exploring the possibly parts of the main route as well. furthest reaches of the country, including However, temperatures are remarkably the uninhabited highlands which are mild with the average just below 32°F Adventure inaccessible for the rest of the year. (0°C), actually warmer than New York. Outdoor The freezing temperatures offer Fall the best opportunities to experience Summer vanishes at the end of August, the electric-blue ice caves beneath the and the landscape turns to hues of gold, behemoth glacier Vatnajökull.

5 General Where Cost Guide Cost of a street- to Stay food meal – kr. 515- 1,550 (US $5-$15) Traveling in Iceland is easy Cost of a casual and safe, and as the country restaurant meal – becomes even more popular, kr. 1,550-2,580 (US there are an increasing number $15-$25) Contents of options for accommodation Cost of an upscale restaurant meal – and transport, from no-frills kr. 3,620-5,680 (US to ultra-luxe. No matter what $35-$55) for entree you choose, you’ll travel among only; kr. 6,720- 9,300 (US $65-$90) some of the most stunning including appetizer, landscapes in the world – and entree, and dessert Overview many that look like another Cost of a cup of Reykjavik coffee – kr. 310-620 planet altogether. (US $3-$6) Cost of a beer – kr. Hostels and guest houses offer guests the chance to meet the 930-1240 (US $9-

These are plentiful in Reykjavik and animals, chat with farmers, and learn $12) Surrounds& Reykjavik along the Ring Road. A simple hostel about life in rural Iceland. Rates start at Car rental – kr. dorm bed ranges from kr. 3,100-5,160 around kr. 10,320 (US $100) per night. 3,100 -20,670 (US $30-$200) per day (US $30-$50) per night. Guesthouses Camper van rental and B&Bs are more homey, and include Hotels – kr. 10,330-31,00 breakfast or a guest kitchen. Rates Icelandic hotels run the gamut in style (US $100-$300) per range widely, as can the level of service, and cost. Characterless rooms start at day Greater but expect to spend at least kr. 10,320- around kr. 10,320 (US $100), with more Hostels – kr. 3,100- Iceland 5,170 (US $30-$50) 15,490 (US $100-$150) per night. plush options costing as much as kr. per night 41,250 (US $400) per night. The latter Guesthouses – kr. Apartments are most often found in Reykjavik, but 10,330-15,500 (US Apartment rentals are gaining in you’ll find some surprisingly elegant $100-$150) per night National Park National popularity in Iceland, particularly in options in the countryside. Farmstays – kr. Vatnajökull Reykjavik, where a stylish one bedroom 10,330 (US $100) per night rents for around kr. 15,490k (US $150) Camping per night. In the countryside, a modest Camping is the most economical way to cabin or cottage costs kr. 10,320-20,650 see Iceland, but it’s only recommended (US $100-$200) per night. during the short window from June Adventure

to September. There are dozens of Icelandic Outdoor Farmstays official campgrounds around Iceland. hotels run These are a great option for cozy The average cost is around kr. 1,030 (US the gamut accommodation in the countryside. $10) per night, and most don’t require in style Often located on working farms, they reservations. and cost.

6 Getting Reykjavik, but rarely practical outside the capital region. Fares are standardized Around and tipping is not expected. They’re not cheap, though. The 30mi (48km) ride Iceland is 39,769 mi² (103,000 from the airport to Reykjavik is around kr. km²), much of it sparsely 12,920 (US $125). A 10-minute ride from populated, rugged, and remote. Reykjavik’s downtown to the outskirts Route 1, or the Ring Road, is will be around kr. 2,070 (US $20). a 828mi (1,222km) national it’s illegal Contents to sleep in a road that circles the island Rental cars campervan and connects the main towns. Several companies offer rentals ranging outside Though many of the most from compact cars to monstrous 4x4 campgrounds popular attractions can be seen vehicles. Rates vary from kr. 3,100 or urban by bus, a rental car or guided (US $30) per day for a small manual areas Overview tour is recommended if you want transmission car up to kr. 20,670 (US without the to get off the beaten path. $200) or more for a Land Rover suitable landholder’s for the highlands. permission. Bus travel

Buses are an easy, affordable way to get Camper vans Surrounds& to and from Keflavik Airport, around Save on hotels as you roam the country. Reykjavik the Ring Road and Golden Circle, and to These range from kr. 10,330-31,000 (US larger towns throughout the country. $100-$300) per day, depending on the Service is far more frequent in summer size and season. Note, it’s illegal to sleep – in winter, routes are greatly reduced, in a campervan outside campgrounds if running at all. In high season, many or urban areas without the landholder’s Greater long-distance buses stop at tourist permission. Iceland attractions, take a short break at the final destination, and then return to Self-driving vs guided tours Reykjavik, so you can use It’s easy to see much of Iceland the bus as a DIY day trip from the city. independently by car, stopping at every National Park National spectacular vantage point without Vatnajökull Internal flights being beholden to a tour guide’s Internal flights depart from Reykjavik’s schedule. However, in certain areas, domestic airport, near downtown, and it may be safer to leave the driving to serve several areas of the country all someone more experienced. If you’re year round. Flights last under an hour planning a trip to the remote interior, Adventure and typically cost kr. 7,230-10,330 (US or want to do a lot of exploring off Outdoor $70-$100) each way. the Ring Road – especially in winter – a guided trip is best if you aren’t used to Taxis driving on unpaved roads, and saves Taxis are easy to hail and safe to use in the expense of renting a 4x4 vehicle.

7 Cultural Highlights When people think of Iceland, they think of fire and ice. Maybe Eyjafjallajökull too, if they can pronounce it. Contents But that’s only the tip of a very big iceberg.

Festivals Icelanders love festivals, especially during the summer. There’s a special Icelandic Overview word, útihátíð, to describe outdoor festivals, since they can only happen Culture day in Reykjavik

around July or August. Along with Sif Einarsdottir Katrin popular music festivals like Þjóðhátíð,

other festivals worth a go are Gay Pride, celebrated all over the country, but Surrounds& Reykjavik Culture Night, the Reykjavik Art Festival, only really happens on the island of Icelanders and the Food and Fun Festival. Vestmannaeyjar, which swells from 4,000 love Winter festivals are all about feasting. to nearly 20,000 inhabitants the last festivals, Try to get invited to a family gathering weekend of July or the first weekend especially for Þórláksmessa just before Christmas of August. There’s been a new song during the Eve to sample fermented skate, or join written for the festival every year since

summer. Greater Iceland the larger community gatherings during 1874 and the location – a tiny valley with There’s Þorrablót in January to eat sour food. enormous, volcanic cliffs rising around a special the natural amphitheater – is unbeatable. Icelandic Music If you’d like a smaller, more local word, Iceland has one of the highest ratio of experience, check out Bakkaferði in útihátíð, to Park National Vatnajökull bands per capita, and music festivals Borgafirði eystri for Bræðslan at the end describe happen all year long, starting with Aldrei of July or Gæran in Sauðárkrókur in mid- outdoor fór ég suður, a free event celebrating the August. festivals. diversity of Icelandic music, held annually When útihátíð time has passed, the in Ísafjörður on Easter weekend. But the show for musicians must still go on. season really kicks off with the Secret Reykjavik´s biggest music festival of the Adventure

Solstice music festival on June 21-22, year is the five-day Airwaves festival held Outdoor when the sun circles the horizon without in late October/mid-November. Locals ever setting. and tourists alike flock here to see over Þjóðhátið means “Nation’s 200 artists from near and far at dozens Celebration,” and is, in theory, of venues.

8 Folklore Traditional food Icelanders are still Vikings at heart. Fish of every variety is at the center of Though Even Christian traditions incorporate traditional Icelandic cuisine: dried fish Icelanders pagan beliefs – like the 13 yule lads, (harðfiskur), pickled fish (síld), rotten have a very one for every day of Christmas, who shark (hákarl), and once in a while, some fun-loving steal candles, harass sheep, and make whale (hrefna). Since beer wasn’t legal culture, other types of mischief. Icelandic until 1989, Icelanders wash down their these children fear the lads’ troll mother, hákarl with Brennivín schnapps, aka traditions Contents Grýla, who sends her devilish cat to eat Black Death. are not to naughty kids. The Þorrablót sour food festival, be laughed References to the old Norse Gods celebrated since the Viking age, is held at. are everywhere. Icelanders like to the first Friday after January 19th each believe every rainbow is the Bifröst year. To find this type of food, look for bridge to Ásgarður, the center of the the cross-eyed, pink pig logo of Bonus, Overview world and home of the twelve Norse a common supermarket, or try your gods. Place names from the Norse luck at Kólaportið, the weekend flea- Sagas still exist all over the countryside, market held near Reykjavik´s downtown and the four land spirits – the Dragon, harbour. Other traditional foods to try

Viking, Bull, and Eagle – still protect the are horse (hestakjöt and folaldakjöt) and Surrounds& four quarters of Iceland. reindeer. Reykjavik Though Icelanders have a very fun- loving culture, these traditions are not Craft brews and spirits to be laughed at. Icelanders really do If you like local, small-batch microbrews believe in elves and huldufólk (hidden and craft spirits, you’re in luck. Keep people), and say they only reveal an eye out for Ölvisholt, Steðji, Kaldi, Greater themselves to a human who truly Gæðingur and Segull 67 craft beers, and Iceland believes. A highway in Iceland was even Iceland´s first-ever single malt whisky, moved because its planned location Flóki, just released in 2017. fell on some sacred elf sites. Street food National Park National Nearly all fuel stations around the Vatnajökull country have a grill and sell a decent, affordable burger and fries. The creamy, old-style ice cream called “gamli ís” is another staple. But the king of all street foods is no doubt the Icelandic hotdog. Adventure

Order one “with everything” from Outdoor any gas station, corner store, or from Iceland’s longest running restaurant and most iconic food stand – Baejarins Beztu Fermented shark in downtown Reykjavik.

9 Pronunciation Guide Iceland is an isolated country and its language has stayed pure and close to its roots – it’s the closest you can get to Old Norse. Today many Icelanders speak English, Contents but it’s always nice to be able to say place names properly, and The famous Baejarins beztu in Reykjavik fun to know appropriate phrases for the occasion. means “Thanks for the last time [we

met]” and is used when meeting a friend Overview One Pronunciation or friends one has spent time with charming Most consonants are pronounced recently. phrase that similarly to English. Accent marks over Thank you can be an informal takk doesn’t vowels change their sound, usually from (thanks). Takk fyrir mig (thank you for seem to

short to long. me) is more formal, and a must when Surrounds&

have an Reykjavik standing up from the table if someone equivalent a as in car, á as ou in shout has served a meal. in English e as in bet, é as in ye in yet Cheers!: Skál (pr: scowl) is Takk fyrir i and y as bin, í and ý as ee in seek Yes: Já (pr: yow) siðast (pr: o as the a in all, ó as ao in boat No: Nei (pr:ney) tahk fi-rir u as u in under, ú as oo in toot Hello: Hae (pronounced as the English Hi) Greater

see-thast). Iceland æ like i in ice or Hallo. It means ö like u in fur Goodbye: Bless, often said twice. “Thanks for Þ, þ like th in thin Please is not used as frequently as in the last time Ð, ð like th in thunder English. A request of viltu (will you) gives [we met]”. ei, ey like ai in aide the equivalent of please. National Park National ll (double L) pronounced tl Excuse me: Afsakið (pr: Av-sock-ith) Vatnajökull J like y in yes Where is the toilet? Hvar er klósettið? R is rolled (pr:Kvar er kloe-set-tith?) hv pronounced kv How much does it/that cost? Hvað f in the middle of a word changes to a v kostar það? (pr:Kvath kostar thath?) Accent always on the first syllable Adventure

Longer words look challenging but are Outdoor Useful Icelandic phrases often smaller words strung together, like One charming phrase that doesn’t seem Eyjafjallajökull. Eyja-fjalla-jökull, island- to have an equivalent in English is Takk mountain-glacier. Break up the words to fyrir siðast (pr: tahk fi-rir see-thast). It make them easier to pronounce.

10 Best Side Trips Iceland is more than the Ring Road. Equally fascinating and easily accessible are these short side trips that go beyond waterfalls and geysers. Contents

Secret lagoon in Fluðir Here is where most of Iceland´s produce comes from. Some of the greenhouses are open to the public and Overview usually have shops where you can buy strawberries, cucumbers, mushrooms, Secret Lagoon Hot Pool

potatoes, and tomatoes. Fluðir also has Emily Kydd an old swimming hole (Gamla Laugin

or Old Pool) that is increasingly being Stokkseyri. Here, culture and art Surrounds& Reykjavik referred to as the “secret lagoon”. reign supreme. There is a ghost Fluðir also The water’s pleasantly warm and the museum, an Icelandic folk tales has an old surroundings very natural. This is also a museum, and a wildlife museum. What swimming great place to spend the night – there Icelanders often seek in Stokkseyri hole (Gamla are many charming cottages for rent as is the langoustine bisque served in Laugin or well as excellent camping facilities with Fjöruborðið (The Beach Table). It’s said Old Pool) Greater Iceland free WiFi. the local fishermen commune with that is mermaids to get the freshest catch. increasingly Time travel to Eyrarbakki being Icelanders drive to this South Iceland Wicked witches of the west referred town to get a glimpse of how life In Iceland´s Westfjörds is the town to as the Park National Vatnajökull was for Icelanders in the 1800s. This of Holmavik, which you could loosely “secret charming seaside village has well- refer to as Iceland´s Salem. The town lagoon.” preserved historical houses making you is famous for Galdrahúsið, a magic and feel that you´ve stepped back in time. witchcraft museum. You are handed Don’t forget to drop by the Þuriðubuð a small booklet as you enter. Exhibits Fólk Museum. A completely experiential can become a tad academic, but have Adventure exhibit, museum attendants often a go at saying the spells and take a Outdoor dress in period costume. peek at the necropants. Made from the skin of dead men, necropants are Ghosts of Stokkseyri said to generate endless amounts Next to Eyrarbakki is the town of of money.

11 exhibit. The collection is a labor of love and many who visit have a strong Stories say reaction to seeing these wonderful that these rocks and minerals. sorcerers were Herring adventure responsible in Siglufjörður for the Just one hour away from Akureyri is scandalous Contents this charming fishing village that has behavior enjoyed a resurgence because of an of women influx of capital from a hometown boy attending who made it big in the United States. mass at Painted in bright primary colors, the Árnes

town now has a five-star hotel, a bar, church. Overview and new shops sitting on top of a boardwalk by the harbor. This created an impetus for other townies to move Scandals and sorcerers back, including a fantastic New York

of Trékyllisví pastry chef who now has a coffee Road Trip Surrounds& Population 20, this cove has a creepy shop on the main street. Siglufjörður Playlist Reykjavik Our local experts history and is actually where the also has the largest herring museum share their picks witch era craze started in Iceland. in Europe, chronicling the herring for an Iceland You can ask for directions to the era in north Iceland. Winters don’t soundtrack. cliff called Kistan (The Coffin) where slow Siglufjörður down, either. It’s Emilíana Torrini – three sorcerers were burned in 1654 a fantastic skiing destination and a Jungle Drum Greater by the town sheriff. Stories say that haven for winter sports enthusiasts. Of Monsters and Iceland Men – Little Talks these sorcerers were responsible for Sigur Rós – the scandalous behavior of women Into the Arctic Circle Hoppípolla attending mass at Árnes church. A in Grimsey For a Minor more recent claim to fame: this area They say that in the old days, the Reflection – Dansi National Park National (near Gjögur airport) was where most priest´s bedroom on the island of Dans Vatnajökull of the Justice League movie was shot. Grimsey was halfway inside the Arctic Seabear – I Sing I Swim Circle. Accessible by air and sea from FM Belfast – Petra´s stone and Akureyri, Grimsey is the only place in Vertigo mineral collection Iceland where it’s possible to cross Sóley – I’ll Drown Collected over an 80-year period by into the Arctic Circle. The islanders are Of Monsters and Adventure an Icelandic woman named Petra, this said to be partially descended from Men – Dirty Paws Outdoor immersive exhibit is in Stöðvarfjörður, trolls – easy to believe since they’re Svavar Knutur – Wanderlust East Iceland. The constant stream of a hardy lot. Grimsey also has a large Sigur Rós – All visitors to her private home forced population of puffins and other Alright the family to formally open a nature sea birds.

12 Responsible aware of what you’re doing at all times. Stick to designated paths Don’t Tourism and remember, a photo isn’t worth answer dying for. The nature here is like the call of nature, in nothing else, and as more Avoid the crowds admirers flock to Iceland’s nature. Even Though Iceland is undoubtedly though a shores, it’s vitally important popular, there are still many locations to travel responsibly, helping lot of the Contents that aren’t yet on the tourist radar. country to protect and preserve the Instead of the Golden Circle, opt unique environment we’re all seems instead for the sights of the Diamond untamed, here to enjoy. Circle in the north, landscapes shaped Iceland over millennia by violent eruptions. has indeed There are a number of ways to Worthwhile stops here include tamed the Overview help lower your impact – including the mysterious Hljóðaklettar rock art of public taking the Iceland Tourism Board’s formations, beautiful Lake Mývatn, bathrooms. Icelandic Pledge. and mighty Dettifoss. Want to enjoy Iceland’s hot springs?

Don’t venture off-Road Escape the hordes at the Blue Lagoon Surrounds& It might be tempting to blast off into and head to Laugarvatn Fontana Reykjavik the unknown, but always stick to Geothermal Spa, located within the roads and tracks. If you do wander off, Golden Circle area. The very brave can fragile ecosystems that take centuries run down to the nearby lake and jump to recover could be destroyed in your in the freezing water before rushing wake. Others might follow in your back to the warmth of the pools. Greater footsteps as well, causing even more Avid hikers might be eyeing the Iceland damage. popular Laugavegur Trail, but if you prefer to enjoy nature in solitude, head Use public bathrooms to the protected Hornstrandir nature whenever possible reserve in the Westfjords. Hikers are National Park National This might sound obvious, but it’s rewarded with an isolated region full Vatnajökull a serious problem in Iceland. Don’t of spectacular mountains, deep fjords, answer the call of nature, in nature. waterfalls tumbling into the ocean, Even though a lot of the country and the best chance to spot the elusive seems untamed, Iceland has indeed arctic fox. tamed the art of public bathrooms. Lastly, to avoid the crowds at Adventure

Jökulsárlón, there is a smaller glacier Outdoor Respect nature lagoon just before it called Fjallsarlon Accept that the Icelandic nature is in which sees far less traffic, allowing you charge here. A lot of it isn’t cordoned to really ponder life as you listen to the off behind fences or rails, so stay soft, deep cracking of the glaciers.

13 Visa Information

Just visiting Iceland is a signatory of the Schengen agreement, so if you already have a visa for the Schengen region or are Contents a resident/citizen of Schengen´s visa exception countries, it is not necessary Berserkjahraun to get one. You can stay for 90 days without a visa. However, passports must be valid for three months over residence permits, including: the date of departure from Iceland. Au pair: Valid for one year only and Overview Getting into Get the full list of countries whose not renewable or convertible to the country citizens don’t need a visa here: http:// another residence permit. with utl.is/index.php/en/who-does-not- Family reunification: Applies to the intentions need-a-visa. spouse, cohabiting partner, parent of staying

If your country is not on the list, a over the age of 67, parent of a minor Surrounds&

and working Reykjavik visa is necessary. Here is a checklist in Iceland, or minor with a parent in can be of requirements: http://utl.is/index. Iceland. The closest family member php/en/application-basic-requirement. must be an Icelandic or Scandinavian difficult. Except for Beijing and Moscow, citizen, or a foreign citizen with Icelandic embassies do not accept visa a permanent residence permit in applications. Iceland. Greater Work-based: Given to those who are Iceland Looking to stay coming to Iceland based on a shortage Getting into the country with of workers, those who are athletes intentions of staying and working can of exceptional talent, or are qualified be difficult, depending on your answer professionals with contracts. This type National Park National to these questions: hinges on employer sponsorship. Vatnajökull • Are you a citizen or a permanent Students: Applies to those who resident of an EU or EEA country? already have an acceptance letter • Do you have a specialized skill that an from an accredited Icelandic Icelander or EU/EEA citizen does not university, an exchange student, or have? someone who is doing an internship as Adventure

A “YES” means you can move to part of his/her studies. Outdoor Iceland without too much trouble. If Volunteers: Those with proven you answered “NO” to both, there is a relationships with charities and non- longer road ahead. government organizations may apply There are several categories of for this permit.

14 Contents Overview & Surrounds& Reykjavik

Greater Iceland HH National Park National REYKJAVIKand Surrounds Vatnajökull

mall in size but large in personality, Reykjavik packs a plethora of interesting Ssights, renowned restaurants, and hopping nightspots into a few walkable districts. And you Adventure Outdoor Outdoor don’t need to go far from town to experience Iceland’s natural wonders, from geysers and hot springs to glaciers and waterfalls.

15 REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDS Reykjavik Must See & Do The world’s northernmost capital, Reykjavik, is a colorful and bustling waterfront city. Contents Compact and walkable, it nonetheless warrants two to three days of exploration to really get under its skin

and uncover its culture – Overview rich, creative, friendly, and effortlessly cool. Downtown Reykjavik

101

The 101 district is the beating heart Where to stay Surrounds& Reykjavik of Reykjavik, where an exciting mesh Hostels, hotels and guesthouses No trip to of sights, culture, and cuisine come abound throughout the city, but there’s Reykjavik together to create one of the coolest nowhere cooler than Kex, a biscuit is complete capital cities in the world. Laugavegur is factory turned hostel/bar/eatery. Enjoy without the main drag, turning into Bankastræti the beautifully-designed interior, live trying a hot and eventually Austurstræti, where music, great food, and an even better Greater

dog from Iceland you’ll find the old town and seat of location. Prices for a bed in a dorm Bæjarins government. Join one of the free room start at kr. 2,100 (US $20) a night. Beztu walking tours to learn about the history Pylsur. of this remarkable city. Where to eat For a delicious and hearty breakfast, National Park National Bergsson Mathús in the old town is Vatnajökull loaded with charm. No trip to Reykjavik is complete without trying a hot dog from Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, and dinner at the elegant Matur og Drykkur will be an experience you’ll never forget – Adventure

especially if you order the cod’s head. Outdoor

Where to shop To acquire an authentic Icelandic Hotdogs from Baejarins beztu lopapeysa, the Handknitting

16 REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDS

105 Cross over the threshold of Hlemmur, As November and you’ve entered 105. This spacious and the neighborhood might seem quiet and winter roll residential on the outside, but there in, so too are a few spots worth checking out. does Iceland First, head into Hlemmur Mathöll, Airwaves, a newly-developed food hall in the transforming Contents old Hlemmur Bus Station. Grab some the whole coffee around the corner at Reykjavik Reykjavik city center city into one Roasters before heading to the nearby big music and Klambratún Park, where on a clear day arts festival Association of Iceland has a store at you can join in on a round of Frisbee

Skólavörðustígur 19, and Húrra on golf with the locals. Overview Hverfisgata is where you can pick up local Reykjavik fashion. 66 North 107 and Cintamani are both very popular 107, also referred to as Vesturbær, is brands when it comes to buying the quiet seaside neighborhood west

beanies, gloves, or heavy winter of downtown, enjoying life at a more Surrounds& jackets, and both have locations along relaxed pace. Kaffihús Vesturbæjar Reykjavik Laugavegur. makes the trip to this part of town worth it alone – a coastal cottage What to see of a café that serves up amazing The magnificent church Hallgrímskirkja coffee and food without a hint of lies at the top of Skólavörðustígur pretentiousness. Greater – explore the stark interior before Iceland taking the lift to the top for the view Festivals over the city (kr. 900 or US $9). For As November and the winter roll a different perspective, head up to in, so too does Iceland Airwaves, the observation deck of the Perlan, transforming the whole city into one National Park National the former geothermal plant-turned- big music and arts festival for a week as Getting Vatnajökull museum dedicated to the natural artists pour in from around the world. Around Downtown wonders of Iceland (kr. 490, around US If you don’t have (or don’t want to buy) Reykjavik is easily $4.50). a ticket, grab a guide and hunt down walkable, but for Perched on the edge of the water the off-venue gigs, where you can service to the on the bay is the glittering Harpa catch free performances from artists outer suburbs

hop on a Straeto Adventure

Concert Hall, reflecting all kinds of Outdoor attending the festival. bus. Tickets are light from inside and out. A short Culture Night in August is an exciting kr. 440 (around stroll further along the harbour is mix of Viking battles, live music, art US $4), giving you unlimited transfers the wonderfully modern sculpture exhibits, and food offerings, topped off within 1.25 hours. Sólfarið, ode to the sun. with a mighty fireworks display.

17 REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDS Nightlife Beer Completely at odds with its fanatics size, Reykjavik’s nightlife has should head achieved legendary status to the cozy amongst the European basement capitals. Skál! that is ?

Micro Bar, Contents Surviving the djamm (party) renowned Going out on the town in Reykjavik for its is expensive. Take advantage of the relaxed happy hours first – once they’re over, atmosphere you’ll be left with wistful memories a ceiling made of mirrors helping to and wide of the time when beer cost merely a distract from the cold weather outside. selection Overview small fortune. But it’s also important of Icelandic to pace yourself, because nights in Icelandic institutions craft brews. Iceland start late – locals don’t even Pay homage to Reykjavik by jamming think about leaving their houses until yourself in to Kaffibarinn, one of the

1am or after. city’s old guard bars, with its iconic Surrounds& London tube sign in front. Afterwards, Reykjavik The best happy hours head to Prikið, more of a crowded The bar Bravó has one of the best house party than a bar. Its two floors happy hours in the city, stretching a are perfect for frantic dancing and lengthy nine hours from 11am until meeting the locals, who will no doubt 8pm. Gently-lit tables and colorful encourage you to sample the “Icelandic Greater cushions give this place a loveable Black Death,” also known as Brennivín. Iceland charm, serving up beers for around kr. 725 (US $7). Another good option is the Dance the night away suave bar at the Kex Hostel, frequented Though the dance floor at the Húrra by locals and travelers alike – from 3pm seems endless, it does get busy around National Park National to 7pm, beer and wine is kr. 620 (US $6). 2am with a young, enthusiastic crowd. Vatnajökull Afterwards, head next door to Paloma, Craft beers and cocktails the best spot to dance till dawn. Beer fanatics should head to the cozy basement that is Micro Bar, renowned Late night bites for its relaxed atmosphere and wide Fortify yourself for the walk home with Adventure selection of Icelandic craft brews. a stop at Nonnabiti. Possibly the final Outdoor If you fancy a cocktail, check out rite of passage before you can safely Pablo Discobar. You’d be forgiven for call yourself a Reykvíkingur, the tasty thinking you’d stumbled into a tropical subs here always help to stabilize even disco, with jungle-themed walls and the most beer-befuddled individual.

18 REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDS Day Trips For those staying in Reykjavik who don’t have the time to explore the entire country, there are a number of day trips that reveal Iceland’s dramatic and elemental core. Here are a few Contents of the best.

The Golden Circle The famed Golden Circle circuit’s first stop is Þingvellir National Park, location of the first democratic Overview parliament in the world, and also where you can witness two tectonic Strokkur

plates slowly ripping apart. Next up James Taylor is the erupting Strokkur at Geysir,

shooting forth a plume of water over waterfall Faxi, and you can retrace Surrounds& Reykjavik 100ft (30m) into the air every three to your steps back from Geysir to find There four minutes. Further on is Gullfoss, Bruarfoss, a waterfall with stunningly are many Iceland’s most famous waterfall blue water. Also near to here is marvelous that thunders down the River Hvítá, Efstidalur, a family-run farm with their sights hidden glaciers glittering on the distant very own ice cream store, or take route within the horizon. 35 down south to come across Kerið, Greater

southwestern Iceland To go beyond these three, take a a volcanic crater filled at the bottom tip of Iceland, car and visit some of the little-known with a milky blue water. which is but no less exciting sights around this overlooked area. Nearby to Gullfoss is the small Reykjanes Peninsula by most There are many marvelous sights travelers. Park National hidden within the southwestern tip Vatnajökull of Iceland, which is overlooked by most travelers. Drive back towards the airport and take road 42 leading towards Kleifarvatn Lake, surrounded by contorted cliffs of lava that hide Adventure

countless walking trails. Further south Outdoor is Krýsuvík, a steaming geothermal area, and Grænavatn, a volcanic crater filled with a milky green water Gulfoss thanks to a cocktail of minerals within.

19 REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDS

minutes’ drive from Reykjavik, it’s easily accessed by either a self-tour For an or by joining a guided tour – horse- experience riding tours are available starting at kr. that you can 14,470 (US $140). If on a self-tour, make have nowhere use of the long days and either wake else in the up early or go in the evening to avoid world, join the throngs of people that you’ll find the "Inside Contents soaking there during the day. the Volcano Don´t forget to pick up a loaf of Tour". rugbrauð at the bakery beside the Bonus supermarket in the nearby town of Hveragerði. Rugbrauð is traditionally

baked for 24 hours in steaming Overview geothermal fields, of which there Avoiding are plenty in the area. Also, in the Natural Inside the Volcano tour Hazards in Dana C.Dana Getz same building (between the bakery Iceland and supermarket) is a large fissure Iceland’s famous

Closer to the coast is yet another on the floor that appeared during an Surrounds& geysers and Reykjavik geothermal area, Gunnuhver, and earthquake in 2003. It’s been covered waterfalls are lonely lighthouses are strung along the over with glass and strategically spectacular, but they can also be cliffs that teem with bird life. lighted. dangerous. In geothermal areas, Day hikes Tours to join be sure to stick to The Mount Esja trail is a Reykjavik Some attractions in Iceland lie out signed and marked

paths. Off the Greater Iceland hiking rite of passage, and from the of reach without the help of a tour path, the ground top on a good day the resulting vista or guide. For an experience that you underfoot can be spans Reykjavik and the whole of the can have nowhere else in the world, thin and next thing you know, you're surrounding capital area. Take bus join the "Inside the Volcano Tour" waist deep in number 15 from Hlemmur bus station, and delve into the dormant volcano scalding hot water. National Park National transferring onto bus number 57 in Þríhnúkagígur to explore its magma Waterfalls are Vatnajökull Mosfellsbær. For a more adventurous chamber. beautiful to behold in their natural hike, at the bottom of Hvalfjörður just For your safety, any activities glory, with no north of Reykjavik lies the challenging involving the mighty glaciers also railings or ropes trail leading towards Glymur, one of must be undertaken on a tour. cordoning off Iceland’s tallest waterfalls. Snowmobiling, ice climbing, and the precipitous

heights. But the Adventure glacier hikes on either Sólheimajökull rocks are sharp Outdoor Reykjadalur hot springs or Langjökull are an amazing and and the currents Another popular day trip from unforgettable experience to have and quick, so keep a safe distance from Reykjavik is the hike towards easily accessed in a day from Reykjavik the edge. Reykjadalur hot spring river. Only 45 on a tour.

20 Contents Overview & Surrounds& Reykjavik Greater GREATER Iceland National Park National ICELAND Vatnajökull

or many who think of traveling here, Iceland means the cheerful streets of Reykjavik and the geysers and waterfalls Fof the Golden Circle. But, those who venture further will find ample rewards: black sand beaches in the south, fascinating Adventure Outdoor Outdoor lava tubes in the west, the secluded Westfjords cliffs, the striking volcanic landscapes of the Diamond Circle, the snug fishing towns of the eastern fjords, and the mighty glaciers, dazzling ice caves, and iceberg-strewn lagoons of Vatnajökull National Park.

21 GREATER ICELAND South Iceland South Iceland contains many of the storied landscapes that visitors here ache to see, filled with craggy peaks, thunderous waterfalls, and brooding but Contents beautiful black sand beaches. This makes it one of the more crowded corners of the country, but stay awhile and you’ll discover your own little Overview quiet corner.

Reynisfjara Beach Towns of the South Hveragerði is well known for its hike

to Reykjadalur hot spring river, but home to the recently-renovated Secret Surrounds& Reykjavik there’s more to this unlikely town. Lagoon hot spring. Brightly-lit Horse riding tours of the area’s lava greenhouses fields, lush heaths, and woodlands are Þjórsárdalur surround available starting from kr. 8,000 (US East of Flúðir lies the unexplored valley the humble $76), and bike tours from kr. 16,900 of Þjórsárdalur. Seek out the waterfall country (US $160). Hjálparfoss, two waterfalls flowing Greater

town of Iceland Brightly-lit greenhouses surround strongly together down a small cliff. At Flúðir, an the humble country town of Flúðir, Stöng, you can explore the dilapidated agricultural an agricultural oasis in the middle of ruins of an old Viking farm, out the oasis in the the Golden Circle region. The town is back of which is a short trail leading middle of to the valley Gjáin where more lovely the Golden Park National Vatnajökull waterfalls await. Afterwards, head Circle to Þjóðveldisbærinn, a reconstructed region. Viking farm (kr. 1,030 or US $10), or opt for the 6mi (10km) hike to Háifoss.

Þórsmörk Adventure

For those with a 4x4, a challenging Outdoor F-Road (mountain road) leads to Þórsmörk, a beautiful nature reserve nestled between glaciers. Great hiking Þórsmörk awaits here in this valley named after

22 GREATER ICELAND

Seljalandsfoss is a beautiful fall with a path that lets you go behind the curtain of

water. Contents Overview

Seljalandsfoss

Thor, the Viking God of Thunder, but before crashing into the river below. Surrounds& getting here involves dangerous river Also not to be missed here in the Reykjavik crossings. For the inexperienced, it’s little settlement of Skógar is the Folk probably best to get the bus which Museum. leaves from Reykjavik and connects at small towns along the way – Hella is The Westman Islands the most convenient (kr. 4,600 or US Vestmannaeyjar is an archipelago Greater $48). made up of 15 volcanic islands, sitting Iceland just off of the south coast of the Waterfalls country. Heimaey is the only inhabited Spilling over the precipice of the isle, renowned for its giant population highlands are a number of waterfalls, of Atlantic puffins in the summer. The National Park National tumbling down onto the southern ferry leaves from Landeyjahöfn to sail Vatnajökull plains before draining out to the sea. staunchly in between the towering Seljalandsfoss is up first, a beautiful cliffs that flank the town’s harbour. fall with a path that lets you go behind Eldheimar Museum focuses on the the curtain of water. Just a five-minute 1973 volcanic eruption that forced the walk to the north is Gljúfrafoss, a island to evacuate (kr. 2,270 or US $22). Adventure hidden cataract tucked into the crevice Outdoor of a cliff – cross a small stream into the Vík narrow canyon to see it. Further south, Vík is no doubt one of the prettiest Skógafoss is a much larger waterfall, towns in Iceland. Set against a flowing down in a perfect, pearly sheet formidable cliff face along the coast

23 GREATER ICELAND of black sand, the small town of 318 is a great place to stop and have a poke around. Off shore lies Reynisdrangar, three basalt stacks that legend says are trolls turned to stone by the breaking of dawn. Just before you reach the hamlet, stop by at Dyrhólaey Peninsula, Contents offering stunning views out over black sand beaches and towards the glaciers dominating the interior. Nearby, Reynisfjara is the most popular of black sand beaches thanks to the stack of volcanic basalt columns at one Overview end. (The waves are very dangerous at these beaches – be sure to heed the Fjaðrárgljúfur gorge warning signs.)

East towards Vatnajökull running through the bottom. Surrounds& East of Vík, the horizon will soon Nearby is the last settlement of any Reykjavik Carved fill with Europe’s largest glacier note that you’ll see for a while, the out by an Vatnajökull, and many might be tongue-twisting Kirkjubæjarklaustur. ancient tempted to charge on through to West of town you’ll see the vast glacial reach it. But road 206 off of the main Eldhraun lava field and the remains of river, this route holds a surprising beauty – farms destroyed in the 18th century Greater

serpentine Iceland Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon. Carved out by eruption of Laki, one of the largest and canyon an ancient glacial river, this serpentine most devastating in recorded history. displays canyon displays vibrant contrasts It’s said that when the lava neared the vibrant of greens and browns, with a river town, the church pastor delivered what contrasts became known as the “Fire Sermon,” National Park National

of greens Vatnajökull and the lava came to a halt. and browns, with a river Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon running A stunning glacial lake filled with through the floating icebergs, Jökulsárlón is bottom. understandably famous – visitors can Adventure

paddle a kayak among the bergs or Outdoor explore the lagoon by boat. It can get crowded, though. For a more serene experience, stop instead at Fjallsarlon, Jökulsárlón the smaller lagoon just before it.

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West Hvalfjöður Iceland Western Iceland and Snæfellsness Peninsula are steeped in Viking history and sagas. Come here to learn all about these heroic tales, or Contents explore the rugged lava fields and majestic glaciers that inspired them.

Hvalfjöður Overview With the new tunnel under the fjord diverting local traffic, Hvalfjörður is Hraunfossar now off the beaten track – and Glymur, Iceland‘s second-highest waterfall,

is at the east end of the fjord. You’re of Barnafoss and Hraunfoss (which Surrounds& Reykjavik in Iceland to see waterfalls, right? The streams straight from a lava-tube It’s worth the trek if you have four highlight of river). Or take a guided tour of hours to do the hike. The deserted Borganes Viðgelmir, the largest cave in Iceland, WW II British military base and the is the which lies to the east. abandoned whaling station offer Settlement excellent photo opportunities. Visit a family farm Greater

Center, a Iceland museum Farmers in Iceland have to work in Borganes harmony with the delicate landscape, with The highlight of this picturesque town fascinating and they put the local geothermal is the Settlement Center, a museum exhibits energy to good use. Stop in to with fascinating exhibits about buy fresh berries and vegetables about Park National Vatnajökull Iceland´s first settlers. Iceland´s from Sólbyrgi in Kleppjárnsreykir first settlers. greenhouse village, heated by thermal Reykholt waters. Home to Iceland’s most famous medieval poet, Snorri Sturluson, Gerðuberg Reykholt is a major center of Norse As Hwy 54 turns west, look for signs Adventure mythology. Dive into the history at to this impressive wall of cliffs with Outdoor the Snorrastofa Cultural and Medieval striking geometric basalt columns. Center, or if that’s not your thing, check out the nearby hot springs of South Snæfellsnes Peninsula Deildartunguhver and the waterfalls Búðir, Arnarstapi, and Hellnar offer

25 GREATER ICELAND places to stay the night. Walk the paths through lava fields and along sea cliffs while puffins fly above.

Snæfellsjökull National Park Malarrif Visitors‘ Center offers free, guided hiking tours from park rangers with information about the area’s Contents history, geology, and biology. The lava-tube cave tour at Vatnshellir is worth the price of admission – there’s also an abundance of organized glacial adventures and hiking paths throughout the park. Overview

Kirkjufoss Stykkishólmur This waterfall, with iconic, cone- shaped Kirkjufell just beyond, is one of

the most photographed landmarks in visit includes tastings of dried and Surrounds& Reykjavik Iceland. If your heart’s set on taking a This small fermented shark, an experience not to snap, you’ll find it between the towns scenic be missed. of Ólafsvík and Grundarfjöður. village is Berserkjahraun known Sample some shark Opposite Hwy 54 from Bjarnarhöfn, for its Far more off the beaten path is a dirt road takes you through the Greater

collection of Iceland Bjarnarhöfn, a small family business old Danish “Lava Field of the Berserkers,” a moss- on the way to Stykkishólmur. Their trading covered fairyland of lava formations. Shark Museum tells of generations houses, as The name comes from an Icelandic of shark fishing and processing – the well as its saga about fierce warriors (berserkers) from Sweden who met their untimely excellent Park National Vatnajökull Volcano end here. Museum. Stykkishólmur This small scenic village is known for its collection of old Danish trading houses, as well as its excellent Volcano Adventure

Museum. Watch their film about Outdoor the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull to comprehend the natural forces that created everything you’ve been Snæfellsjökull, Snæfellsnes peninsula

Emily Kydd observing since arriving in Iceland.

26 GREATER ICELAND Northwest Iceland Probably Iceland’s least explored region, the northwest of the country is split into two completely different areas – the Contents intimidating fjords and table- topped mountains of the Westfjords, and to the east, gentle hills and meadows with a scattering of lonely Overview farmhouses.

Latrabjarg cliffs Flatey Island Travelling across Breiðafjörður

to the Westfjords via the Baldur The Westfjords Surrounds& Reykjavik ferry (leaving twice a day from The dramatic scenes awaiting in the At the end Stykkishólmur, kr. 8,780 or US$85 for Westfjords will leave you in silent awe. of one a person and car) will give you the Towering table-topped mountains of those opportunity for a brief stopover on dominate small fishing villages lawless Flatey Island. Teeming with bird life strung along windswept coasts, and dirt roads and dotted with colorful houses, the deep valleys cut into the mountains, Greater

that are so Iceland island is a charming place to while waterfalls spilling down on all sides common away a few hours. Note that in the to stream towards the ocean. Only six in the off-season, the ferry only operates percent of all tourists visit the area, so Westfjords once a day. come here to find the adventure and lies one of isolation that you’ve been craving. Iceland’s Park National Vatnajökull Ísafjörður is the capital of the biggest region, and acts as a great base for and most booking any outdoor activities. Skiing, striking horse riding, whale watching, bike attractions tours, and kayaking are all available – the here.

Látrabjarg Adventure cliffs. Outdoor Látrabjarg At the end of one of those lawless dirt roads that are so common in Hornstrandir the Westfjords lies one of Iceland’s

27 GREATER ICELAND biggest and most striking attractions – the Látrabjarg cliffs. Stretching for 9mi (14km) along the south western tip of the Westfjords, this is Iceland’s easternmost point and the best spot for bird watching in Europe.

Dynjandi Contents Considered the crown jewel of the Westfjords, Dynjandi is a series of waterfalls crashing over a set of cliffs down into the fjord. An easy track leads up to the largest and most impressive of the falls, Fjallfjoss, Overview which flows over a series of seven cliffs, growing in size as it gets closer Dynjandi waterfall to the bottom.

Hornstrandir side lies the large, brooding rock Surrounds& The last untouched wilderness in formation Hvitserkur – a troll turned Reykjavik Considered Iceland, Hornstrandir is perhaps the to stone by the breaking dawn as the crown most scenic of places in the country. he tried to destroy a monastery at jewel of the Inhabited up until 1950 and now Þingeyrar (where a striking stone Westfjords, protected, it has become a haven for church now stands instead). Dynjandi is hikers and the arctic fox. Mountainous Greater

a series of Iceland passes give way to sandy fjords, cliffs Skagafjörður waterfalls swarming with birds, and countless Spend a bit of time in this quiet crashing waterfalls tumbling to the sea. There fjord to discover rural Iceland at its over a set of are no services available here, so go best. The glacial rivers running out cliffs down prepared or take a tour. The region towards Skagafjörður provide some National Park National

into the Vatnajökull is accessed via ferry from Ísafjörður – of the best white-water rafting in the fjord. prices start from kr. 10,020 (US$97). country – tours are available from kr. 24,390 (US$236). At the end of Vatnsnes Peninsula road 748, a ferry leaves for Drangey The squat peninsula of Vatnsnes makes Island, a volcanic outcrop teeming a ruggedly-beautiful detour and is a with seabirds (fares from kr. 12,190 Adventure great place to watch seals rollicking or US$118). On the eastern coast of Outdoor along the coast. The western side of the fjord at Hofsós, a magnificent the peninsula offers amazing views swimming pool sits just above the towards the coastline of Hornstrandir, shores, offering an amazing view while in the ocean on the eastern over the whole fjord.

28 GREATER ICELAND North Iceland Just short of the Arctic Circle, Iceland´s northern towns still exude an easygoing, Scandinavian country lifestyle. Farms are remote but because Contents survival depends on help from neighbors, everyone is connected even over hundreds of miles. Overview Lake Myvatn Geothermal Baths Hljóðaklettar Set alongside a volcanic lake and surrounded by magnificent scenery,

these springs are definitely natural and Húsavík Surrounds& Reykjavik less commercialized than the famed Famous for its whale-watching Steam vents Blue Lagoon. expeditions, there’s more to the and lava town than that. Húsavík is also where formation all Krafla Lava Fields Apollo astronauts trained. Peek into around give Steam vents and lava formation the Exploration Museum, an exhibit of this place all around give this place a surreal, man´s history as explorers as well as Greater

a surreal, Iceland otherworldly feel. artifacts from the astronaut training otherworldly Be sure to follow the signs – going center. feel. off the path might bring you to areas that are too hot to walk on. Hljóðaklettar Known as the Singing Cliffs, these National Park National basalt rock formations were twisted Vatnajökull into strange shapes when glacial river floods washed away portions of volcanic craters, creating eerie sounds as the wind passes through. Do not attempt to climb the dangerous Adventure

formations without proper equipment Outdoor – fatal accidents have occurred.

Ásbyrgi Canyon Lake Myvatn According to legend, this horseshoe-

29 GREATER ICELAND Contents Overview

Arctic Henge

shaped canyon was formed when the which includes Raufarhöfn and Surrounds& Reykjavik Norse god Odin’s eight-legged horse, Kópasker, is often forgotten. As it’s If you’re Sleipnir, put down his hoof. Ásbyrgi hard to give exact directions, it’s much interested is a popular camping and hiking better to ask your local host once in seeing area during summers. The warmest there. There is nothing spectacular the temperatures in Iceland have been or extraordinary in the prairie – what Northern recorded here. is special is the absolute absence of Greater

Lights, Iceland civilization. consider a Arctic Fox Prairie & Viking If you get lucky, your host might night here – Burial Mound point you towards an ancient Viking Raufarhöfn Melrakkaslétta (Arctic Fox prairie), burial ground, right by the lighthouse is the best marking Iceland´s northernmost point. place to see Park National Vatnajökull All the locals know about it, but you the Aurora would be hard-pressed to find it in Borealis in official guide books. They say a warrior winter. is buried there.

Kópasker Adventure

There’s little to see in the town of Outdoor Kópasker, but the Snartastaðir Folk Museum just 1.25mi (2km) outside the town is worth a visit – it has a good Husavik collection showcasing life in the region

30 GREATER ICELAND during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Arctic Henge Often referred to as the village at the edge of the Arctic, Raufarhöfn is Iceland’s northernmost town, with a population of less than 200. It’s also home to Heimskautsgerði (Arctic- Contents henge), a modern henge that evokes ancient religious practices and was strictly built according to instructions in ancient Icelandic Sagas – it’s supposed to harness the power of the

Arctic sun during solstices. Overview If you’re interested in seeing the northern lights, consider a night here – Raufarhöfn is the best place to see the Aurora Borealis in winter. Although Akureyri

its population is small, Raufarhöfn has Surrounds& two B&Bs and one hotel. A campsite Reykjavik Local’s Guide to Akureyri by the swimming pool is also well- Akureyri, the second-largest city in Iceland, offers a wonderful mix of sheltered and has facilities for grilling, cosmopolitan vibe and small-town atmosphere. showers, laundry, and electric outlets. Where to eat Take advantage of the swimming pool, Bautinn, in the town center, is the place to go for traditional Icelandic as its water is heated by geothermal food. Múlaberg, overlooking the town center, serves a delicious lamb Greater

burger. Akureyri Fish and Chips has the best fish soup in town. Berlin Iceland power, pleasantly warm with a Restaurant, a block off the main street, is hugely popular for breakfast. fantastic view of the sea. Entertainment For the nightlife, just take an evening stroll down Hafnarstræti. Græni Langanes Peninsula Hatturinn is a popular music venue for locals. Experience the genuine crush of an Icelandic crowd. Made up of the towns of Þórshöfn Culture Park National and Bakkafirði, the peninsula is one of Vatnajökull For a town of only 18,000, Akureyri has a museum for everyone: aviation, the most remote regions of Iceland. motorcycles, toys, industry, history, and art. The Botanical Gardens are A worthy destination in the area is one of the northernmost in the world. Skoruvíkurbjarg, with a platform slung Unique Soak Thirty minutes north of Akureyri is Bjórböðin Spa, where you can soak for out over the high, steep cliffs, perfect 25 minutes in a wooden tub filled with beer. for bird watching but not for those Adventure afraid of heights. Outdoor Birdlife in north Iceland is much hike or walk around the prairie. richer than the rest of the country. Birds love cannonballing on human During summers, most B&Bs have heads during nesting season and boy, hardhats ready for guests who want to does it hurt!

31 GREATER ICELAND East Iceland More remote and less traveled than the Westfjords, the eastern fjords will offer adventure, wilderness, and the best summer weather in

Iceland. Contents

Fljótsdalshérað This is the largest county in Iceland and the least-inhabited area of the country, with more reindeer than people. Hallormsstaðaskógur, Iceland’s Overview largest forest, is only a few minutes’ drive into the Fljótsdalur valley from Hengifoss Egilsstaðir, the area´s main commercial hub. This is a wonderful place to rent a

summerhouse, hike through the bush, of Fljótsdalur. With a guesthouse, Surrounds& Reykjavik go for a forest ride, or look out for the This is a museum, and horse rental, this is glacial river monster, the “Lagarfljót wonderful your starting point for a guided trek Worm.” Don´t miss the easy hike up place to or ride up to Snæfell, Iceland´s tallest to Hengifoss, located just beside the rent a freestanding mountain. A day or two road near the farmstead Skriðaklaustur, summer- gets you to Laugarfell mountain hostel, which features monastic ruins, a cafe, where you can relax your muscles in Greater

house, hike Iceland and a center dedicated to local author through the a natural hot tub, and then another Gunnar Gunnarsson. bush, go day or two to hike or ride to the Base yourself at the Wilderness for a forest Snæfellsskáli lodge, with spectacular Center, or Óbyggðasetur, at the bottom ride, or look views of Vatnajökull, Europe´s largest glacier. out for the Park National Vatnajökull glacial river Borgarfjörður monster. At the far end of Route 94 is one of East Iceland´s most charming coastal villages: Bakkagerði. Borgarfjörður eystri, or eastern Borgafjörður, not to Adventure

be confused with the one in the west, Outdoor has a harbor and an airport strip. Very little traffic passes through except when the Bræðslan music festival Riding on Fljotdsdalsheidi heath under Vatnajökull

Katrin Sif Einarsdottir Katrin happens at the end of July. But, for

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a skateboard, Walter-Mitty style (this is where that scene of the film was shot).

Fáskrúðsfjörður Carrying on south through the Eastern fjords, head thru the tunnel to Reyðarfjörður and over the heath to Fáskrúðsfjörður, a one-time station for Contents French cod fishermen – the village road The signs are in both French and Icelandic. Icelandic Fljotdsdalsheidi heath Horse

Katrin Sif Einarsdottir Katrin Stop in on the third weekend of July for Iceland is home the annual French Days festival, which to over 80,000 those hikers willing to make the drive, celebrates the area’s French legacy and Icelandic Horses, setting up camp in town and taking the ongoing friendship between France which is impressive Overview for a country with advantage of the dozens of well- and Iceland, or check out the museum only 334,000 marked trails is a must-do. Find maps in the old French hospital. people. Bred for Seyðisfjörður for Víknaslóðir, the “trails of the inlets,” If you´re looking for a more active both riding and and choose a hike that suits your fitness adventure, just south of town are two companionship, the Icelandic

– walk less than an hour to Álfaborg hill intense mountain hikes. Start the 743 Horse came to the Surrounds& Reykjavik (aka the Elf Queen Castle), or take a full summit up Sandfell on the trail head island nation of day to get up and down Dyrfjallstindur between the farms Víkurgerði and Iceland with the first settlers from or over to Loðmundafjörður. Vík, or for something a little more Norway over 1,100 challenging, the iconic Digritindur will years ago. Due to Seyðisfjörður take you an entire day to complete. its isolation, the breed is one of the You´ll have to drive back inland to There isn’t a well-marked trail – simply purest in the world. Greater Egilsstaðir to pick up the road to start the steep ascent from the Iceland Icelandic Horses Seyðisfjörður, the main eastern abandoned farm Sævarendi. (Do this are no bigger than gateway out of Iceland by car or boat. one on a day with good visibility.) a large pony, but Weekly ferries run to the Faroe Islands, are known for their sure-footedness Denmark, and Germany during the

and their ability Park National summer, and starting or ending your to cross Iceland’s Vatnajökull trip in this village will definitely leave rough and diverse terrain. In addition you with warm, fuzzy feelings for to the typical Iceland. Hiking up from the bottom of gaits, the Icelandic the fjord will lead you past waterfall Horse has two after waterfall, and if you’re brave special gaits called

the tolt and the Adventure enough for a four-hour climb up the “flying pace.” Both Outdoor north face of Bjólfur mountain, you’ll gaits are fast and have terrific views down to the town smooth and can reach speeds up to and out to the end of the fjord. You Fáskrúðsfjörður 30mph (48kmph).

may be tempted to go down the hill on Sif Einarsdottir Katrin

33 GREATER ICELAND The Highlands While everyone else is busy planning their trip around the Ring Road in a Yaris, why not head straight for the highlands where driving a car Contents is optional (and superjeeps are mandatory)?

Hekla

Respected as one of Iceland´s most Overview dangerous active volcanoes, yet still one of its most beautiful mountains, Start of Fjallabak hike

Hekla is infamously called the “Gateway Sif Einarsdottir Katrin to Hell.” This ticking time bomb has

regularly devastated Iceland since Fjallabak and Surrounds& settlement times. Covered in snow and Landmannalaugar Reykjavik Covered small glaciers all year round, Hekla can in snow Hekla is located in the Fjallbak, or be hiked in half a day. You can get there and small “mountain back,” range of mountains from route 26 to Gunnarsholt Trail, or glaciers all sitting north of the Eyjafjallajökull and from the village of Leirubakki, where year round, Myrdalsjökull glaciers. One of the best public buses run to and from Reykjavik. hikes in the area (a 16mi or 26km trek Greater

Hekla can Iceland Though Hekla’s seismic activity is be hiked in possible in a day or two) is actually monitored closely, hikers should be half a day. between these glaciers, starting at aware that it could erupt with little Skogafoss and ending in Þórsmörk. warning. From Þórsmörk, you can continue on for four or five days to Landmannalaugar, National Park National a steamy, geothermal wonderland of Vatnajökull colorful hills and hot rivers. Don’t miss a visit to Gjáin, a river canyon in Þjórsárdalur full of hiking trails, waterfalls, lush greenery, and basalt columns. After snoring your Adventure

nights away at well-equipped campsites Outdoor and mountain huts, you won’t need to walk back, since buses make the trip from Landmannalaugar to Reykjavik Lake Viti city center several times a day (kr. 9,300

34 GREATER ICELAND

a mountain hut, camping, and hiking area with some natural hot springs. No mountaineering experience is needed to explore the so-called “Women’s Mountains.” Most of the Kjölur crossings stop at Hveravellir, the rumoured home of Iceland´s most infamous outlaw Fjalla Contents Eyvindur, and site of the biggest natural hot pool in the highlands. Several fjords Kjölur can be followed from here to the north coast, but if you’re riding, definitely end or US$90 one way). You can also try to up in Skagafjöður, the horse capital of hitchhike, but be sure you pick a 4x4 Iceland. Overview you trust for river crossings, since the highland road isn’t for just any car. Sprengisandur This long, extreme highland pass starts Kjölur and Kerlingarfjöll near Hekla in the Fjallabak region, and

From the south, the main entrance to ends up near Lake Myvatn. There are Surrounds& Kjölur´s F35 dirt road is just beyond still folk songs sung about how difficult Reykjavik Gullfoss in the Golden Circle area. this pass is to ride on a horse, and it’s Thousands of tourists visit Gullfoss nearly impossible on foot without the every day, but few wander further help of a boat or car (there are several north across this ancient, highland pass unpredictable glacial rivers that should Crossing between Langjökull and Hofsjökull Rivers in not be waded). Greater glaciers. It´s possible to hike or Your 4x4 Once you reach the desert area of Iceland snowmobile on Langjökull, or even Fording rivers Sprengisandur, between Hofsjökull and cross it east to west in a superjeep, but (crossing in the Vatnajökull, only a few raging, sediment- don’t try to do the same on Hofsjökull, shallow part) can filled glacier rivers will supply you with be exciting and a glacier notorious for unstable caps fun, but make sure water. Past Nyidalur hut, you can head National Park National and crevices. that you are totally northwest past Laugafell hut and stop at Vatnajökull You can walk (a week), horseback ride confident that you a hot spring there, go straight north past can ford a river (five days), mountain bike (two days) or the photogenic Aldeyarfoss, or head before doing so. drive (two hours) the south-north Kjölur Insurance will not northeast above Vatnajökull glacier. pass, and with newly-maintained roads cover damage to Though this last route is the least the car or rescue. and bridges, it can be driven in a Yaris. In traveled, the reward of arriving at When in doubt Adventure settlement times, this was the shortest either find another Askja crater and seeing Lake Viti Outdoor walking or riding route from the North to road or wait for glistening at the bottom of it is Reykjavik or Þingvellir, and many of those more experienced indescribable. If you’re there on a dry, drivers to show you trails are still in use. the way. mild day, you may be able to take a dip Slightly east of Kjölur is Kerlingarfjöll, in the bath-warm water.

35 Contents Overview & Surrounds& Reykjavik VATNAJÖKULL Greater

NATIONAL Iceland HH National Park National

PARK Vatnajökull

overing 13 percent of Iceland, Vatnajökull is the largest national park in Western Europe, and Cencompasses other smaller, equally amazing national parks including Skaftafell and Jökulsárgljúfur. Adventure Outdoor Outdoor

36 VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK Adventure in the National Park As varied as it is vast, this extraordinary park offers glaciers, ice caves, canyons, and Contents waterfalls enough to suit any outdoor enthusiasts.

Skaftafell

Skaftafell is one of Iceland’s true hot Overview spots, with breathtaking geological features like the bird-rich shelter of Vatnajokull glacier Bæjarstaðarskógur, the Öræfajökull Volcano, the glass-black basalt columns

beneath Svartifoss, and more. Instead of heading straight down, Surrounds& Reykjavik There are plenty of trails in Skaftafell, consider passing over the wooden Remember but one of the most popular is the bridge near the cascading water and to never relatively easy 90-minute day hike hiking up an additional 1,300ft (400m) attempt up to Svartifoss waterfall. Another for a viewpoint that offers stunning hiking on popular walk leaves directly from the vistas over the surrounding area. a glacier visitor’s center and heads up to the Greater

without an Iceland Skaftafellsjökull glacier. Be sure to Dettifoss experienced dress warmly, and remember to never This is one of a series of falls (including guide. attempt hiking on a glacier without an Selfoss, Hafragilsfoss, and Rettarfoss) experienced guide. that crash along the Jokulsa a Fjollum river. All are awe-inspiring, but Dettifoss National Park National Svartifoss takes the cake. With over 130,000 Vatnajökull Also known as Black Falls, this natural gallons of water cascading over the wonder is one of the most popular sharp cliff every second, this is the most sites in Vatnajökull. The waterfall is powerful waterfall in all of Europe. surrounded by a concave wall of glassy The falls are located around 60mi black volcanic columns. (90km) from the town of Húsavík and Adventure

The falls are about a 1.25mi (2km) are a popular stop on the 126mi (260 Outdoor hike up from the car park and the trail is km) Diamond Circle Loop. If you prefer well sign-posted. It’s a pretty steep slog to make your way there by foot, you up the hill, but the falls are definitely can also reach them by hiking the scenic worth the effort. 22mi (35 km) trail from Asbyrgi canyon.

37 VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK

Getting There & Around The best way to explore Iceland, including a visit to Vatnajökull National Park, is with your own rental car or

campervan. Contents To get to the park by public transport, most people take one of the twice

Jokulsargljufur, Hljodaklettar Area daily summer bus services that

connect Reykjavík Overview and Skaftafell via Entrance to the park is free, and To get to Jökulsárgljúfur, you can the Ring Road, while it’s pretty easy to get there take a bus from Akureyri to Ásbyrgi stopping at the on your own, you can also go with (changing buses in Húsavík) for around park. an organized tour. Day tours start at kr. 5,580 (US $54). With your own rental From mid- September through

around kr. 29,140 (US $282) and will car there are plenty of places to access Surrounds&

May, three weekly Reykjavik take in the falls and usually some other the park, including Route 862 from Þingvallaleið buses sites like Lake Mývatn. Route 85 in the west, or from Dettifoss. connect Reykjavík Getting around the park is simple and Höfn, stopping opposite Hótel and trails are very well marked. Many Jökulsárgljúfur Skaftafell which is Just 19mi (30km) north of Dettifoss, people choose to hike across the about 3mi (5km) you’ll find Jökulsárgljúfur (meaning length of the park, camping mid-way at east of the park Greater entrance. Iceland Glacial River Canyon). Formerly its own Vesturdalur. This takes around two days national park until the formation of and covers 21mi (34km). Keep in mind that while the lowlands Vatnajökull National Park in 2008, this of the national park region is blessed with some of Iceland’s Vatnajökull Glacier are accessible for most stunning natural wonders. Vatnajökull, the glacier for which the most of the year, most roads in the Park National The Jokulsargljufur Canyon is the national park is named, is the largest Vatnajökull highlands are only largest and most impressive river canyon glacial mass in Iceland, and second accessible by 4x4 in Iceland. It stretches for over 15mi largest in Europe by area, measuring during the summer months and early (24km) with its widest point being over around 3,166mi² (8,200km²). If you autumn. 1,640ft (500m). actually want to walk on the glacier, Another one of Jökulsárgljúfur’s top you should go with a reputable tour Adventure sites is Hljóðaklettar or “Singing Cliffs.” operator or licensed guide. Outdoor There's a 1.75mi (3 km) walking trail There are plenty of tours around from the parking area that will take the region that will take in a glacier around this series of strange, swirling walk as well as other sites like the honeycombs and basalt columns. Crystal Ice Cave.

38 Contents Overview & Surrounds& Reykjavik Greater

ADVENTURE Iceland HH National Park National IN ICELAND Vatnajökull

ith vast glaciers and iridescent ice caves to explore, mighty mountains Wto summit, and raging rivers to tame, Iceland is an adventure lover’s dream. Adventure Outdoor Outdoor

39 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Camping With over 200 inexpensive, backpacker-friendly campsites, Iceland is one of the world’s best destinations for camping.

But, it’s still important to understand Contents the law. Use designated campsites where they do exist, and don’t camp on somebody’s farm or within sight of somebody’s house without asking permission.

If there is no sign and the land Overview isn’t being used to grow crops, you can camp for a single night before you need to move on. You can even park your car on the side of the road,

if there’s a layby. But don’t drive Surrounds& off-road as you can damage the Reykjavik Skogafoss environment and more often than not, the land will be owned by someone. If you can afford it, a campervan Top Tips for Happy Camping is by the far the best way to explore Don’t underestimate the weather. Icelandic weather can be wild and change abruptly. The weather forecast is pretty reliable and it’s Iceland – you can sleep soundly even worth keeping a close eye on the Icelandic Met Office warnings: If Greater Iceland if the weather turns. We strongly you know which way the clouds are heading, you can travel in the recommend downloading the free opposite direction. offline maps app, maps.me, to ensure Help may not be around the corner. Some of Iceland’s most you dont get lost on the road. stunning areas, such as the Highlands, are largely uninhabited, which means if you do get into trouble, you may be on your own.

Bring a mobile hotspot so you can stay in the loop on weather and Park National road conditions. Vatnajökull Bring the right gear. With the right camping equipment, you can stay warm and dry in most conditions. Don’t rely on a single-skin tent – you’ll come to regret it. A self-inflating air mattress is also worth bringing – you will lose a ton of heat to the ground without one. If you don’t have your own equipment, it’s possible to rent quality gear in Reykjavik. Adventure

Camp responsibly. If you are camping in the wild, follow these Outdoor principles for disposing of waste: https://lnt.org/learn/7-principles. Always carry a headlamp. For breakdowns, midnight toilet-runs or hiking in the dark, a headlamp is an essential piece of kit and you should always travel with one – it could just save your life.

40 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND

Top Tips Hiking and for Happy Trekking Hiking Keep an eye on With hikes for all abilities, the weather. The from easy day hikes to multi- weather in Iceland can change rapidly day expeditions, Iceland has and without something for everybody. Here warning. Bring are five of the best. multiple layers Contents of windproof, waterproof clothing The Laugavegur and make sure you have a hat, down multi-day trek jacket, and snacks The 34mi (55km) hike between in case you have Laugavegur Trek

Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk is to wait out a bad Overview patch of weather. doable in four to five days – most hikers stay in overnight cabins along trails by National Geographic and Bear in mind the length of the days. the way. This is one of Iceland’s most passes through some of the most In the summer, popular treks and for good reason – diverse and beautiful scenery in all of there can be up to 23 hours of

the views are simply stunning. Start Iceland. Cross glacial rivers, chill out in Surrounds&

daylight. In the Reykjavik the trek in Landmannalaugar where a geothermal hot tub, and get up close winter, there are you can explore hot springs, rhyolite and personal with some of Iceland’s sometimes only 4 mountains, and vast fields of lava. most pristine glaciers. hours of daylight, so plan accordingly. You’ll find yourself hiking past colorful mountains, crossing raging rivers, Hvannadalsnukur Pack the right gear. For any hiking exploring lush green valleys, and Summit day hike adventure, a proper Greater passing fascinating rock formations on The highest peak in Iceland, backpack with a Iceland your way to Þórsmörk. Hvannadalsnukur involves a good hip belt is essential. Decent challenging 10-15-hour hike across hiking boots or Glymur Waterfall day hike difficult glacial terrain and gaping shoes are also If you’re not keen on a multi-day hike crevasses. Hvannadalsnukur towers crucial and well National Park National but do want to do something epic, above Vatnajökull glacier, the largest worth investing in. Vatnajökull consider hiking to the highest waterfall glacier in Europe, and offers stunning Plan ahead. If you are hiking in the in Iceland. Glymur is located at the end views. Highlands, call the of Hvalfjörður (the Whale Fjord) and mountain huts it’s a fairly easy three-to-four-hour hike Mount Esja day hike along your route to get up-to-date to get up there. One of the easiest and certainly the intel on the current Adventure most accessible hikes in Iceland, Esja conditions. If you Outdoor Laugavegur & Fimmvorduhals is within spitting distance of Reykjavik are going on an multi-day trek itself and can be conquered in just a few ambitious multi- day trek, it’s worth This four-to-eight-day trek was recently hours. If you’re very short on time while investing in a GPS. named one of the world’s best hiking in Iceland, this is the hike to aim for.

41 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Diving, Kayaking, and Rafting Iceland is crossed by dozens of glacial rivers and surrounded by ocean. To properly explore Contents it, you’re going to have to get your feet wet.

Snorkeling and scuba diving

Want to swim between two tectonic Overview plates? Visit the famous Silfra fissure in Þingvellir, a huge rift between Silfra Fissure the North American and Eurasian continents. This meltwater-fed fissure

has become a mecca for divers thanks with dancing volcanic sands and Surrounds& Reykjavik to the incredible visibility of up to multi-colored sediments turning the This 330ft (100m), allowing for sweeping riverbed into a rainbow. meltwater- 360° views of stunning underwater For divers, Iceland is famed for fed fissure geology. unique experiences. Want to see how has become Not yet Padi-certified? No problem life could exist on a planet without a mecca – simply don a snorkel mask and a a star? Check out the hydrothermal Greater

for divers Iceland wetsuit and you’re good to go. vents Strytan and little Strytan in thanks Iceland is very snorkel-friendly Eyjafjordur. These are the only known to the – if you have time, be sure to visit underwater geothermal chimneys incredible Litlaa, a geothermally-heated river shallow enough to be reached by the visibility average diver. They attract abundant allowing for Park National Vatnajökull marine life and it’s been speculated sweeping that they provide perfect conditions 360° views for life when there is no solar power of stunning source available. underwater geology. White water rafting Adventure

If you want to kick the adrenaline up Outdoor a couple of notches, Iceland’s raging rivers offer some of the best white water rafting in all of Europe. The most famous spot is the relatively chill Hvita

42 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Contents Overview

Isafjordur

River in the South, which is perfect for on your toes as you glide, perhaps not Surrounds& beginners. Commonly known as the so gracefully, through the amazing Reykjavik White River, this Class II river is just a glacial landscape of the Austurdalur If you want couple of hours’ drive from Reykjavik. wilderness. more of a Want even more adrenaline? personal Jökulsá Austari, known as the Beast Kayaking experience of the East, is a Grade IV river offering If you want more of a personal with Greater turbulent white water, steep drops, experience with Iceland’s stunning Iceland’s Iceland and the need to work as a team. landscapes, kayaks are the best way stunning Challenging rapids like the "Alarm to explore the country’s serene glacial landscapes, Clock" and "Deep Fry" will keep you lagoons and sparkling bays. One of kayaks are the best kayaking destinations is the the best National Park National gorgeous Breiðafjöður Bay in West way to Vatnajökull Iceland – paddlers here are likely to explore the have encounters with puffins, seals, country’s and even whales. serene Or go kayaking between icebergs glacial in the dazzling glacial lagoons at lagoons and

sparkling Adventure the edge of the massive Vatnajökull Outdoor glacier. Jökulsárlón is the most bays. famous, but kayaking tours of the more peaceful Heinabergslón lagoon are also available.

43 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Winter Activities With a name like Iceland, it’s no wonder that this 39,769 mi² (103,000 km²) Nordic island nation has a lot of winter activities on offer. Contents

Skiing & snowboarding If the Norse god of weather is in a good mood, you’ll enjoy some spectacular slopes in Iceland. Overview Hlíðarfjall near Akureyri, the largest town in Northern Iceland, is a great Snowmobile on Vatnajokull Glacier place for off-trail ski junkies with plenty of chutes, peaks, cornices, pipes, and

cliffs. Day passes here will cost around hour rides starting at around kr. 24,280 Surrounds& Reykjavik kr. 4,750 (US $46) for adults and kr. 1,340 (US $235). You can get (US $13) for children. For those looking off your to get some style points, there’s also an Snowshoeing snowmobile excellent snow park here. There are plenty of snowshoeing tours for a while Siglufjörður is another great spot for but some of the most scenic will again be and head backcountry skiing, while Oddsskarð around Akureyri and Reykjavik. down into Greater Iceland has two tow lifts and a beginners’ lift. From Akureyri, you can do two-to- the depths Just a 25-30-minute drive from the city four-hour tours that run through the of an ice of Reykjavik, Bláfjöll is the largest ski hill hills, past waterfalls, and along the cave. around, with two double-seater chair nearby fjord. You can also do an amazing lifts, a detachable quad, and nine tows. six-day snowshoe tour that includes a National Park National hike up to Lake Mývatn, which is set in an Vatnajökull Snowmobiling active volcanic zone. The scenery here is Some of Iceland’s best snowmobiling breathtaking and while the hike is a bit is also near Reykjavik and Akureyri. The strenuous at times, only a reasonable Langjökull Glacier is the second-largest level of fitness is required. glacier in Iceland and after riding across From Reykjavik, you can join a tour Adventure it, you can also get off your snowmobile and head to Drangshlid and Skogafoss Outdoor for a while and head down into the waterfall, or hike up the beautiful Mount depths of an ice cave. Hengill. Prices for three-to-four-hour The hills around Akureyri are also snowshoeing tours usually start at spectacular for snowmobiling, with one- around kr. 12,340 (US $120).

44 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Caves and Glaciers They don’t call it the “land of fire and ice” for nothing. No one should visit Iceland without exploring its spectacular lava caves and Contents vast ice fields.

For your safety, all glacier hikes and cave trips Crystal Ice Cave must be conducted with a reputable guide.

Sólheimajökull Glacier (south) Mýrdalsjökull Glacier Overview Just a two-hour drive from Reykjavik (south Highlands) During is beautiful Sólheimajökull, an outlet This is one of Iceland’s most interesting your hike, glacier of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, the glaciers. You’ve probably heard of the you’ll need fourth largest in Iceland. Eyjafjallajökull volcano that erupted to strap

During your hike, you’ll need to strap in 2011, causing flight delays across on some Surrounds& Reykjavik on some crampons, don a helmet, Europe? There's a much larger volcano crampons, and grab yourself an ice pick. You’ll sitting beneath the Mýrdalsjökull don a explore ice formations and pass by deep Glacier, and it’s just a matter of time helmet, cravasses before arriving at an ice wall before that one erupts as well. But, and grab for you to climb. This is where the ice at the time of writing, tours are still yourself an picks come into play. continuing to run and no dangers ice pick. Greater Seeing the black volcanic rock peeking are imminent. Iceland out from the teal blue ice is a sight in The glacier can be seen by air itself. If you’re looking for a day trip (helicopter), by snowmobile, or by foot. from the capital, this glacier hike should You can also enter the ice caves, but feature prominently on your itinerary. note that they aren’t as dramatically National Park National blue-colored as the Crystal Ice Cave. Vatnajökull Vatnajökull Glacier (southeast) Lofthellir Lava Cave Located in the National Park of the (northeast) same name, Vatnajökull glacier is After hiking over the beautiful Búrfell the largest in Iceland, covering eight lava field for around 20 minutes, you’ll Adventure percent of the country. Within, you’ll arrive at a gaping hole in the ground. Outdoor find the stunning Crystal Ice Cave. The This is where you’ll descend deep into natural light filters through the thick the 3,500-year-old Lofthellir cave to blue ice, illuminating the cave – it’s a discover the largest ice sculptures found photographer’s dream. in a lava cave anywhere in the country.

45 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND

This cave is for the adventurous – but maybe not for the claustrophobic. You’ll need to squeeze through several small, icy openings before arriving at a spacious cavern filled with ice sculptures in all sizes and shapes.

Langjökull Glacier Contents (mid-west highlands) This is the second largest glacier in Sólheimajökull Iceland, and as of a few years ago, it’s also home to the biggest man-made ice cave in all of Europe. Hrolleifsborg isn’t overly difficult, but The most popular ways to see this trip is considered demanding Vatnajökull Overview Langjökull are by snowmobile tour and because anything can happen out on the glacier is jeep tour, and of course, entering into glacier. Bad weather can roll in making the largest the 1,640ft (500m) tunnel. The tour runs the driving conditions difficult. If this in Iceland, year-round and, if you’re brave enough happens, you’ll be required to help out covering

to leave the light of day behind, you’ll be in any way possible (maybe shoveling the Surrounds&

eight Reykjavik rewarded with icicles and brilliant colors. vehicle out of the snow if needed!). And, percent of LED lights have been installed deep in depending on weather, the hike could be the country. the ice, which lets you see the natural tricky as well. blue hues. Note: Under no circumstances are Hallmundarhraun (west) travelers allowed to walk on the glacier, This massive lava field was formed Greater as there are numerous dangerous around the year 930 when a volcano Iceland cravasses. The tunnel tour costs kr. sitting underneath Langjökull 19,120 (US $185). glacier erupted. If you make your way to Drangajökull Glacier Hallmundarhraun these days, you’ll be National Park National (westfjords) rewarded with numerous lava caves, Vatnajökull This is the most northern of all the the most famous being Víðgelmir, glaciers in Iceland and the only one that Surtshellir, and Stefánshellir. hasn’t receded in recent years. To see At 5,249ft (1600m) long, the it, join one of the super jeep tours that remarkable Víðgelmir cave is quite easy depart from the town of Ísafjörður. to navigate due to a new walkway, Adventure

During the trip, you’ll drive on but you can choose to go on an Outdoor the glacier before hiking up to the extended tour that leaves the walkway Hrolleifsborg Peak with spectacular behind. Inside, you’ll find stunning ice views across the Westfjiords. formations, lava stalactites, stalagmites, At 2,513ft (766m), the summit of and unique rock formations.

46 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Iceland’s Hot Springs The endless supply of hot water bubbling up from underneath Iceland’s volcanic landscapes means there are scenic swimming holes Contents everywhere. From checklist- famous to tucked-away, here are some of the best.

The Blue Lagoon Overview This is Iceland’s most famous hot spring: sparkling pools of turquoise Reykjadalur water carved into the blackened debris of an ancient lava field on the

Reykjanes Peninsula. Expect lots of partitions to get changed behind. Important Surrounds& people and astronomical entrance fees, Hot Spring Reykjavik but although it’s a well-known tourist Hörghlíðarlaug Etiquette trap, it’s an unforgettable experience. To really escape the crowds, head to Before you jump in, if there are the Westfjords and seek out this small, showers, it is Mývatn Nature Baths remote spring perched on the eastern expected that Come here for a more charming and edge of Mjóifjörður. Take road 633 you nude up and Greater serene bathing experience with a along Mjóifjörður and look out for the wash yourself Iceland thoroughly marginally lower price tag than the green hut next to the rectangular pool, (separate men’s Blue Lagoon. Overlooking beautiful but remember to ask permission from and women’s Lake Mývatn (65mi or 105km east the owners living on the nearby farm. facilities are provided). If you of Akureyri) and surrounded by

find yourself at Park National Vatnajökull landscapes lifted straight from a Landbrotalaug any of the local fantasy novel, it’s a favorite with Another off-beat hotpot, this tiny swimming pools, tourists and locals alike. pool on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula you’ll be expected to do the same. is so deep that you’ll sink up to your So, don’t be shy Reykjadalur neck, but only has enough room for – but do put your The river running through the valley two to three people. Head 1.75 hours swimsuit back on

before you leave Adventure

Reykjadalur is one of Iceland’s best north from Reykjavik to Borganes, Outdoor the change room. natural springs. Get there via a 1.75mi then turn onto road 54. After the farm (3km) hike beginning behind the town signed Skjálg, take the first left, an of Hveragerði. Boardwalks line the unassuming dirt track that ends at the river on either side, and there are small holy grail of secluded springs.

47 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND How to See the Northern Lights The Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, are a natural phenomenon that occurs when Contents electrically-charged solar particles enter the earth’s atmosphere. The resulting show of colors dancing across the

night sky can be spectacular. Overview

Best time of year Glacier Lagoon The Northern Lights are only visible from mid-September to early April,

on clear, dark nights with high another important factor in whether or Surrounds& solar activity. With so many factors not the Northern Lights are visible on Reykjavik affecting their visibility, there’s never Earth. The Aurora Borealis can still put The Aurora a guarantee that they’ll make an on a dramatic show when the forecast typically appearance, even in the middle of is a 3 or 4. At a 5 or 6, you’re nearly operates winter. The lights can be active at guaranteed to see some Aurora so long in cycles, any time of the night from sunset to as the sky is clear. If the forecast shows with two to Greater sunrise, and the show might last for a a 7 or above, you’re likely in for one three nights Iceland few minutes, or a few hours. of the most incredible experiences of of strong The Aurora typically operates in your life. activity cycles, with two to three nights of The forecast is published a few followed by strong activity followed by four to five days in advance, and includes four to five National Park National nights with low or no activity. For a projected cloud cover at various times nights with Vatnajökull higher chance of seeing the Northern throughout the night, so if your plans low or no Lights, it’s best to stay in Iceland for at are flexible, plan your viewing attempt activity. least six to seven nights. for the clearest locations and most active times for a better chance of Getting forecasts a sighting. Several companies offer Adventure

The Icelandic Meteorological Office guided Northern Lights tours and Outdoor forecasts the Northern Lights based on cruises that depart from Reykjavik, and solar activity on a scale of 0 (little or no many countryside hotels even offer activity) to 9 (extremely high activity). wake-up calls should the lights appear The forecast also shows cloud cover, late at night.

48 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Contents Overview Aurora Borealis above Kirkjufell

Best viewpoints Tips for Photographing When the Northern Lights are the Northern Lights The best camera is a DSLR with a full frame sensor and a fast wide

particularly strong, they can be seen Surrounds& dancing over the city of Reykjavik. Even angle lens, like the Canon 16-35mm/f2.8. Reykjavik on nights when activity is moderate, Another gear essential is a sturdy tripod. It will allow you to shoot at longer shutter speeds, which are essential to photograph the they are sometimes visible from the dancing lights. Grótta lighthouse in Seltjarnarnes, A remote shutter release or timer will drastically improve the a popular viewing point just a few sharpness of the photos. minutes’ drive outside the city center. And remember to be patient and keep trying – the reward is worth it. Greater However, in most cases, the ideal places Iceland Get Your Camera Settings Right to see the Aurora are away from city 1. Switch your camera to manual focus and set it to infinity. lights, out in the Icelandic countryside. 2. Adjust your camera settings to the highest ISO possible, without If you’re looking for a particularly the image becoming too noisy/grainy. striking backdrop, consider the multi- 3. Open your aperture as much as possible by selecting the lowest National Park National tiered Dynjandi waterfall in the possible F-number. Vatnajökull Westfjords, the cone-shaped Kirkjufell 4. To capture details in an Aurora shot, depending on its current activity level, you should stick to shutter speeds between ¼ of a mountain on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, second to 15 seconds. or the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon on the Sometimes the aurora moves incredibly quickly, dancing effortlessly south coast. But the weather in Iceland in the skies. Sticking to higher shutter speed will allow you to capture can be fickle – and as a result, the more detail. Adventure Northern Lights can be elusive – so the Protecting Your Gear Outdoor best place to see the Northern Lights The most important gear is your fingers. Keep them warm with is wherever you happen to be standing down mittens. when they make their appearance A wireless shutter release remote will came in handy, allowing you to shoot from a distance of up to 100m while thawing in your car. above you.

49 ADVENTURE IN ICELAND Where to See Wildlife Iceland’s pristine environment is home to a variety of unique animals. Since you’re unlikely to see them frolicking by the roadside, make your way to the Contents following locations or book a tour – you won’t regret it. Whale watching near Husavik

Puffin Viewing From early April until September, the the coast is the biggest seal colony in Whale Overview toothy cliffs around the island act as Iceland. Stop in Hvammstangi at the Watching breeding ground for the Atlantic puffin. bottom of the peninsula to visit the Seal Iceland is one of Vestmannaeyjar off the south coast Museum and learn more about them. the best countries in the world for has the biggest puffin colony in Iceland, whale watching

and is accessed by a 35-minute ferry Arctic fox – the water off Surrounds& ride from Landeyjahöfn. For up-close The beautiful and elusive arctic fox the coast is a rich Reykjavik feeding ground views of the quirky birds, Látrabjarg in is Iceland’s only native land mammal. for over 20 the Westfjords and Borgarfjörður Eystri Sightings are rare but not impossible different types of in the east are remote spots with few – your best bet is the protected whales, including crowds. Hornstrandir region in the Westfjords, blue whales and humpbacks. You which has the biggest population of can spot these Greater Birdwatching arctic foxes. Accessed via a ferry from gentle giants Iceland Alongside puffins, innumerable seabirds Ísafjörður, the region is best explored on from April until September, flock to Iceland during summer. a tour. especially in the Látrabjarg Cliffs in the Westfjords offer north – Húsavík is arguably the best birdwatching in all of Reindeer the most popular National Park National

port. If you’re Vatnajökull Europe, attracting gannets, guillemots, A strictly-controlled population of short on time, and razorbills. Lake Mývatn in the north around 3,000 wild reindeer exists in the tours also leave draws its own array of birds – but bring east, brought to Iceland by Norwegians from Reykjavik. insect repellent, because summer also during settlement times. The reindeer brings an unfathomable amount of roam towards the interior in warmer buzzing midges. months, but during winter, you Adventure

might see them near the main route, Outdoor Seals especially near Snaefell (northeast To spot mirthful seals basking and of Vatnajökull) – but plan your trip playing, head to the Vatnsnes Peninsula. carefully, as it’s a very lonely part of A dirt road loops around the area – off Iceland.

50 Essential So if you’re not from one of those three countries, please take note. Apart from If you’re on your trip and your flight Insurance Tips the weather out of Iceland is cancelled because Iceland has firmly cemented (and packing of severe weather, some policies itself as a haven for tourists, correctly), may cover trip interruption/trip delay nature lovers, foodies, and you’ll need expenses such as meals and additional to know adventure seekers alike. And accommodation expenses until you’re what type Contents with World Nomads travelers able to continue traveling. However, of activities trying new experiences and there are of course limits on what we’ll you’ll be pushing their boundaries when cover, and the plans vary, so it’s essential doing on they travel, it’s essential that you read your policy to see if this applies your trip, you match up the level of cover to you, so you’re not disappointed if you so that you for the activities you’re doing, need to make a claim. Overview can buy the with the travel insurance policy Should your flight be cancelled due to correct level severe weather, you should go straight you buy to cover your trip. of coverage to the airline and get a letter stating at the time Flight cancellation the reason for cancellation and what of purchase. compensation they’re offering. Iceland’s long, dark winters can see Surrounds& unpredictable weather. Snow storms, Reykjavik ice, and high winds can occasionally Hiking and Trekking force the cancellation of flights in and Apart from the weather (and packing out of Reykjavík. Unfortunately this is correctly), you’ll need to know what the time when many travelers head to type of hiking/trekking/skiing you’ll be Iceland in search of the Northern Lights. doing in Iceland, so that you can buy Greater Depending on what stage of your trip the correct level of coverage at the Iceland you’re on, travel insurance for flight time of purchase. Many parts of Iceland cancellations can vary. are thinly populated and remote. If you Trip cancellation cover only applies don’t have the right insurance, a heli- if you are an Australian, New Zealand evac to get you to medical care can be National Park National or US Resident. If you have to cancel very expensive. Be Vatnajökull your trip before it starts because severe World Nomads travel insurance Prepared Weather conditions weather stops your flight from leaving policies are designed so that you can can change quickly (in some cases the services have to have choose the right policy for the activities in Iceland, so it’s stopped for 24 hours for cover to apply), you’re doing, giving you access to the best that you’re US, Australian, and New Zealand policies help you need when you need it. If you prepared. Search

and rescue isn’t Adventure can cover trip cancellation expenses do get injured in the mountains, it’s covered in any of Outdoor such as your non-refundable pre-paid essential that you get in touch with our our policies, so accommodation and airline ticket. emergency assistance teams straight make sure you know where you are at all There’s no cover in any other policies for away, so that they can support you from times. trip cancellation due to severe weather. the time you fall sick or get injured until

51 the time you recover. They’ll be able to SCUBA diving in Iceland can see you help you get to the nearest hospital, navigating waters that are near freezing. If you and if you’re banged up badly enough, And while that may contribute to higher visit our take you home, so that you can get the visibility, it also means that you need to helpdesk ongoing medical care that you need. more aware, so that you’re not putting or read However, once you’re home, cover yourself at needless risk. through the stops, so you’ll need to have access to We’ve tried to give you the freedom activities government health care or your own to learn or hone your diving skills by section Contents private medical insurance for those costs. helping cover some of those nasty of the If you visit our helpdesk or read accidents when you’re: purchase through the activities section of the • Recreational scuba diving (qualified path, you’ll divers to 30 or 40 metres) purchase path, you’ll be able to see the be able to • Discover scuba dives (with professional level of cover that you will need for your see the level qualified instructors) Overview particular policy. All plans are different of cover and may require an upgrade (for an • Shark cage diving, cavern, cave, and that you additional premium) for certain activities. wreck diving (some plans only, check will need Read the policy wording carefully to yours carefully) for your choose the right plan and/or adventure • Snorkelling, island escapes, live-aboard particular

sport option for your trip. trips and more Surrounds&

policy. Reykjavik Call out box: Weather conditions can However, not all of our policies are the change quickly in Iceland, so it’s best that same, so you’ll need to see what your you’re prepared. Search and rescue isn’t policy covers before you buy it. If you covered in any of our policies, so make select the right policy for the type of sure you know where you are at all times. diving you’re doing, you can be covered for medical expenses including: oxygen Greater Scuba or hyperbaric treatment, sea level Iceland Iceland’s waters provide some of the evacuation, overseas hospitalisation, and most unique diving spots in the world. out-patient treatment. However, they can also be challenging For full terms, conditions, limitations and pose additional dangers. Most and exclusions read the policy wording. National Park National obvious is the water temperature - Vatnajökull

All of the information we provide about travel insurance is a brief summary only. It does not include all terms, conditions, limitations, exclusions and termination provisions of the travel insurance plans described. Coverage may not be available for residents of all countries, states or provinces. Please carefully read your policy wording for a full description of coverage. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited (ABN 62 127 485 198 AR 343027) at Governor Macquarie Tower, Level 18, 1 Farrer Place, Sydney, NSW, 2000, Australia is an Authorised Representative of Cerberus Special Risks Pty Limited (ABN 81 115 932 173 AFSL 308461) and is underwritten by certain underwriters at Lloyd's. World Nomads Travel Lifestyle (Europe) Limited (CN 601852) markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited (CN 601851), First Floor, City Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork, Ireland. Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited markets and promotes travel insurance products of

Nomadic Insurance Limited (License No.1446874), at PO Box 1051, Grand Cayman KY1-1102, Cayman Islands. World Nomads Limited (05443592) is an Appointed Representative Adventure of Millstream Underwriting Limited (FCA Firm ref: 308584) at 52-56 Leadenhall Street, London, EC3A 2DX, United Kingdom. World Nomads Inc. (1585422), at 520 3rd Street, Outdoor Suite 201, Oakland, CA 94607, plans are administered by Trip Mate Inc. (in CA & UT, dba, Trip Mate Insurance Agency) at 9225 Ward Parkway, Suite 200, Kansas City, MO, 64114, USA, with 24-hour and Assistance Services provided by One Call Worldwide Travel Services Network, Inc. and plans underwritten by Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and affiliated companies, Columbus, OH. World Nomads (Canada) Ltd (BC: 0700178; Business No: 001 85379 7942 RC0001) is a licensed agent sponsored by AIG Insurance Company of Canada at 120 Bremner Boulevard, Suite 2200, Toronto, Ontario, M5J 0A8, Canada. World Experiences Seguros De Viagem Brasil Ltda (CNPJ: 21.346.969/0001-99) at Rua Padre João Manuel, 755, 16º andar, São Paulo – SP, Brazil is an Authorized Partner (Representante) of Zurich Minas Brasil Seguros S.A. (CNPJ: 17.197.385/0001-21) at Av. Getúlio Vargas, 1420, 5th floor, Funcionários, Belo Horizonte, State of Minas Gerais through the SUSEP Process 15414.901107/2015-77. All World Nomads entities listed above, including Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited and Nomadic Insurance Limited, are subsidiaries of nib holdings limited (ABN 51 125 633 856).

52 Contents Overview

Thanks to our See our other guides contributors:

Katrin Sif Einarsdottir & Surrounds&

Marvi Gil Reykjavik Japan Insider's Guide Katie Hammel With awe-inspiring temples and Will Hatton world-famous cuisine, there’s plenty Marta Kulesza to love about Japan. Katelyn Michaud Margo Renner Greater James Taylor India Insider's Guide Iceland Nick Wharton Watch the sunrise in southern India, or find solitude in the far northern Himalayas. National Park National Vatnajökull Nepal Insider's Guide From things to do in Pokhara and Kathmandu, to delicious dishes and trekking tips. Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Gap Year Guide 400+ tips, hacks, advice, and personal stories from our Nomads to All images from stock libraries unless otherwise credited help you plan your big adventure.

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