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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 411

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Alexis Averbuck My work on was a labour of love supported Many thanks to the travellers who used the last by many. Big thanks to Heimir Hansson (Westfjords), edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Jón Björnsson (Hornstrandir), Dagný Jóhannsdóttir advice and interesting anecdotes: Anna Brunner & Jessica Brooke, Bart Streefkerk, Cliff & Helen Elsey, (Southwest), Kristján Guðmundsson (West), Rag- Daniel Crouch, Elena Kagi, Eyþór Jóvinsson, Fiorella nheiður Sylvía Kjartansdóttir (Reykjavík and every- Taddeo, Gudrun Stefansdottir, Helen Simpson, Ildiko where!), Einar Sæmundsen (Þingvellir) and Helga Lorik, Janire Echevarri, John Gerrard, John Malone, Garðarsdóttir (Laugavegurinn). Svava Guðjónsdóttir Joshua Wood, Keela Shackell-Smith, Klavs Hendil, kept my statistics accurate. Edda and Páll made Linda Moore, Ling-Shao Chang, Lisa Romano, Lori Húsafell so, so special! Carolyn was once again a Zoras, Marco Conti, Marianne Backman, Marlies Van brilliant, generous, astute collaborator. Respect to Hoef, Martin Fettke, Matt Kurz, Melanie Zahnd, Peter James for his great care. Rachel, Jenny, Oren and Gordon, Peter Madsen, Peter Stern, Richard Owen, Timothy were amazing BOB-sters, making Icelandic Ryan Nix, Sarah Britton, Sebastian Steel, Semir Jahic, escapades a family adventure. Ryan = peachy. Sonia Martinez, Steve Eldridge, Sylvia Perez, Terry Bedard, Victoria Courtney, Vidal de Freitas Mansano ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson WRITER THANKS BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Carolyn Bain Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. I wish I had the space to thank every Icelander (and expat and fellow traveller) who, over the course of my Cover photograph: Geothermal field, Kerlingarfjöll, visits, has helped me see more, understand more and Martin M303/Shutterstock © enjoy more – from guesthouse owners and national park rangers to highland tour drivers. A heartfelt takk fyrir to so many people for great conversations, invaluable information and so many acts of kindness. Cheers to James Smart for my favourite gig, and bouquets to my superb project collaborator, Alexis Averbuck. 412 This guidebook was produced Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, THIS BOOK by the following: Saralinda Turner This 10th edition of Lonely Destination Editor James Cartographer James Leversha Planet’s Iceland guidebook Smart Cover Researcher Naomi was researched and written Product Editor Tracy Whitmey Parker by Carolyn Bain and Alexis Senior Cartographer David Thanks to Imogen Bannister, Averbuck. The previous edition

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Kemp Dan Corbett, Gemma Graham, was also written by Carolyn Cam Ashley, Jane Grisman, Paul Harding, and Alexis. The 8th edition was Book Designers Gwen Cotter Victoria Harrison, Andi Jones, written by Brandon Presser, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor, Carolyn Bain and Fran Parnell. Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Bella Li, Anne Karyn Noble and Victoria Mulvaney, Kristin Odijk, Smith ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 413

ALPHABETICAL ORDER The Icelandic letters Þ and Ö appear at the end of the Index alphabet after the letter Z.

100 Crater Park 109 architecture 23, 376 Berserkjahraun 185 Breiðamerkurfjall 327 Arctic Fox Center 212, 213 Berufjörður 308-9 Breiðamerkursandur 327 Arctic foxes 39-40, 212, bicycle travel, see cycling Breiðavík (Snæfellsnes) 192 A 213, accommodation 23, 388-91, 130 Bíldudalur 203-4 Breiðavík (Westfjords) 200 392 see also individual Arctic Henge 281 birds 40, 367 Breiðdalsvík 308 locations area codes 397 birdwatching Breiðdalur 307-8 activities 24, 38-47, see also Árnarhóll 65 Borgarfjörður Eystri 295 Brennisteinsalda 146 individual activities Arnarstapi 191-2, 31 Langanes 283 Brennugjá 112 Áfangar 98 Arnarvatnsheiði 180 Látrabjarg Bird Cliffs 201 Bridge Between Two air travel see also flight Árnes 129 Stórhöfði 166 Continents 109 tours art galleries, see museums western Mývatn 267-8 Brimurð 166 children’s fares 391-2 & galleries Þúfubjarg bird cliffs 190 Brjánslækur 200 to/from Iceland 400 Ásbyrgi canyon 278-9 Bjarnarfjörður 219 Brydebúð 161 within Iceland 401 Ásgrímur Jónsson Bjarnarhafnarfjall 186 Búðahraun 192-3 Collection 65 Akrafjall 171 Bjarnarhöfn Shark Búðardalur 194-5 Akranes 171 ASÍ Art Museum 64 Museum 185-6 budgeting 19, 385 Akureyri 242-57, 244, 234 Askja 16, 348, 349, 16 Blue Lagoon 20, 101-5, Búðir (Fáskrúðsfjörður) 306 accommodation 247-9 Askja route 346-9 9, 159 Búðir (Snæfellsnes) 192, 34 activities 243-5 Ásmundur Sveinsson Blönduós 226 Búðir (Þingvellir) 113 sculpture 105 drinking & nightlife 251 boat tours Búland 139 ATMs 394 entertainment 251 Akureyri 247 Búlandstindur 308 aurora borealis 9, 27, 73, festivals & events 247 Heimay 167 Búrfell 129-34 156-7, 323, 2, 5, 9, 133, food 249-50 Hofsós 232 bus tours 156-7 shopping 256 Reykjavík 68-70 Mývatn 262 Aurora Reykjavík 59 sights 243 Siglufjörður 233 Reykjavík 70-1 Austurvöllur 55 tourist information 256 Stykkishólmur 183 bus travel tours 245-7 boat travel accessible buses 398 travel to/from 256-7 B to/from Iceland 400-1 children’s fares 392 travel within 257 Baðstofa 191 within Iceland 402 within Iceland 402-3, 407 weather 392 Bakkagerði 295-7 boating 42 business hours 395, 396 Akureyri Art Museum 243 Bárðarbunga 350 Bobby Fischer Center 126 Bustarfell 283-4 Akureyri Museum 243 Bárðarlaug 191 Bolungarvík 211-12 Byggðasafnið Hvoll 240 Aldeyarfoss 259 beaches books 352, 372-3 344 Breiðavík 200 culture 377, 381 Almannagjá 112 Djúpalón Beach 190 fauna 368 C cafes 13 Alþingi 55 Hvallátur 200 food 382, 384 camping 20, 391, 389, 392 Alþingi Site 112-13 Ingjaldsandur 205 geology 365 car travel 403-7, see also Nauthólsvík Geothermal angelica 368 Borg á Mýrum 177-8 road trips Beach 67 animals 21, 131, 366-8, see Borgarbyggð 171-81 bringing a vehicle 403-4 also individual animals Rauðasandur 200 Borgarfjörður Eystri 14, driving licences 404 Árbæjarlaug 67 Reynisfjara 155 295-7 F roads 406 Árbær Open Air Museum 66 Skarðsvík 194 Borgarfjördur Museum 175 hire 405 Sólheimasandur 154 Borgarnes 171-7, 174 insurance 405-6 beer 88, 332, 385 Bræðslan 26, 296 internet resources 401 Map Pages 000 festivals 24 Brákin 175 maps 394 Photo Pages 000 microbreweries 82, 86, Breiðafjörður 181 88, 242 petrol 404, 407 414 car travel continued customs regulations 392 Eldfellshraun 166 Flatey 186 road conditions 406 cycling 44, 67, 68, 401-2, Eldgjá 139 Flateyri 206 road rules 394, 406-7 see also mountain Eldheimar 164 flight tours 73-4 safety 396, 401, 404, biking electricity 393 Akureyri 247 406 electronica music 373 Eyjafjallajökull 142 spare parts 404-5 D elves 380 highlands 339 INDEX INDEX cathedrals, see churches & Dalir 193-5 embassies 392 Mývatn 262 cathedrals Dalir Heritage Museum 195 emergencies 19, 398, 409 Möðrudalur 270 caves, see also ice caves Dalvík 240-1 emigration 231-2 Reykjavík 73-4

C-G Arnarstapi 192, 193 dangers, see safety energy 368-70 Skaftafell 321 Grjótagjá 265 design 23, 376 environmental Fljótsdalsheiði 294 Hallmundarhraun 180  280, 32 hazards 396-7 Fljótshlíð 140-1 Hellnar 191, 192 Dimmuborgir 266 environmental issues 353 Flóahreppur 125-6 Hljóðaklettar 279 disabilities, travellers Erpsstaðir 195 Flói Nature Reserve 123-4 Höfði 266 with 398 Esja 171 Flókalundur 197-200 Lofthellir 266 discount cards 397 Eskifjörður 303-4 Flosagjá 112 Sönghellir 193 diving & snorkelling 44, 73, events, see festivals & flowers 367-8 Tindastóll 230 113, 242, 45 events Flúðir 119-20 Vatnajökull National Djúpalón Beach 190 exchange rates 19 Flögufoss 307 Park 276-7 Djúpivogur 289, 309-10 Exploration Museum 271 Fontana 114 Viðgelmir 180 dog sledding 235, 262, Eyjafjallajökull 253, 362, food 23, 80, 382-6 caving 72 364, 234 253 language 409 cell phones 397 Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Dómkirkja 56 tours 383 children, travel with 391-2 Centre 142 230 foxes, Arctic 39-40, 212, churches & cathedrals Eyrarbakki 123-4 Drangsnes 218-19 213, 130 Akureyrarkirkja 243 Eyvindur of the Draugasetrið 124-5 Freysnes 324 Cathedral (Hólar) 231 Mountains 345 Drekagil 348 Frostastaðavatn 146 Dómkirkja 56 Drekkingarhylur 112 frostbite 393 Hallgrímskirkja 59 drinks 88, 384-5, see also F fumaroles 365-6 Húsavíkurkirkja 271 beer F roads 406 fungi 367-8 Landskirkja 166 language 409 Fagrifoss 318 Ólafsvíkurkirkja 188 water 393 Fálkí 194 Reykholt Old Church 179 driving, see car travel farmhouse accommodation G Gallerí Fold 64 Saurbæjarkirkja 171 Duushús 105 389-90 galleries, see museums & Stafkirkjan 164 204, Faroe Islands 70 22 galleries Stykkishólmskirkja 183 Dýrafjörður 205 Fáskrúðsfjörður 306 Gamla Laugin 119 Víkurkirkja 161 Dyrfjöll 294 festivals & events 24-7 gardens, see parks & Þingeyrar 226 Bræðslan 26, 296 Dyrhólaey 154-5 gardens Þingvallakirkja 113 Folk Music Festival 233 Garðskagi headland 108 climate 18, 24-7, 392 Herring Festival 233 Garður 108 coffee 83 E Rauðasandur east Iceland 50, 285-310, gas stations 404, 407 consulates 392 Festival 201 286-7 gay travellers 394 credit cards 394, 395 Reykjavík Arts accommodation 285 Festival 374 genealogy 380-1 cultural centres Dagar Myrkurs 289 Þjóðhátíð 26, 167 genetic research 380-1 Duushús 105 food 285 film locations 375 geology 279, 364-6 Harpa 59 highlights 286-7 films 352, 370, 375-6 geothermal areas Kaupvangur 283 road distances 285 Bjarnarflag 268 Nordic House 65 Fimmvörðuháls 14, 144, 15 travel to/from 288 Hveragerði 120 culture 254-5, 352-3, Fischer, Bobby 126 travel within 288 Hveravellir Nature 377-81 fishing eastern Mývatn 265-6 Reserve 342 Culture House Breiðdalur 307 Hverir 269 (Húsavík) 271 Eastfjords 295-307 Flateyri 206 geothermal energy 368-9 Culture House economics 362 Reykjavík 70 geothermal pools 9, see (Reykjavík) 64 Eddas 137 Seyðisfjörður 299 also hot springs currency 395 Egil’s Saga 176 Fjaðrárgljúfur 325 Árbæjarlaug 67 Egilsstaðir 288-92, 290 Fjallabak Route 139 Blue Lagoon 20, 101-5, Einar Jónsson Museum 65 Fjalla-Eyvindur 345 9, 159 Map Pages 000 Eiríksstaðir 194 Fjallsárlón 327, 13 Bjarnarfjörður 219 Photo Pages 000 Eldfell 166, 167 Fláajökull 330, 331 Drangsnes 219 415 Fontana 114 Greater Reykjavík 98-9 travel to/from 342 holidays 395-6 Gamla Laugin 119 Greenland 73 travel within 338, 342 Hólmavík 218 Grettislaug 230 Grímsey 260-1 hiking 21, 39 Holuhraun 20, 348-9 Hveragerði 120 Grímsvötn 322 Akureyri 245 Hornstrandir Peninsula Hveravellir Nature Grindavík 109-10 Borgarfjörður to 214-17, 215 Reserve 342 Grjótagjá 265 Seyðisfjörður 296 horse riding 42, 72, 43

Laugafell 344 Grundarfjörður 186-8 Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi 278 Árnes 129 INDEX Laugardalslaug 67 Guðrúnarlaug 195 Dyrfjöll 294 Akureyri 246 Laugarvatn 114-15 117 eastern Mývatn 266 Borgarnes 175

Lýsuhólslaug 193 Gunnuhver 109 Egilsstaðir 289 Breiðavík 192 G-H Mývatn Nature Eskifjörður 304 Breiðdalur 307  Baths 268 Fimmvörðuháls 14, Eyjafjallajökull 142 Nauthólsvík Geothermal H 144, 15 Hafnaberg 109 Gauksmýri 226 Beach 67 highlands, the 346 Hafnarfjall 178 Geysir 116 Norðurfjörður 220 Hornstrandir 216 Hafnarfjörður 99 Grindavík 109 Reykjadalur 121 Hvannadalshnúkur 325-7 Hafnarhólmi 295 167 Reykjarfjarðarlaug 204 Ísafjörður 207 Hafrahvammagljúfur Hólmavík 218 Reykjavík 67 Kjölur 344 canyon 294 Húsavík 273 126 Landmannalaugar 146 Háifoss 134 Hveragerði 122 Seljavallalaug 142 Laugavegurinn 148-9, Hali 328 Ísafjörður 208 Suðureyri 206 151, 150 Hallgrímskirkja 59, Lýsuhóll 193 Sundhöllin 67 2 northern Mývatn 268 Hallmundarhraun 180 Neskaupstaður 305 Sundlaugin Hellu 136 safety 396-7, 404 Hallormsstaðaskógur Reykjavík 72 Tálknafjörður 203 Seyðisfjörður 299 292-3 Varmahlíð 227 Tindastóll 230 Siglufjörður 233 Harpa 59-64, 255 Þingvellir National Vesturbæjarlaug 67 Skaftafell 320-1 Haukadalur 116 Park 113 Gerðarsafn Art Snæfell 295 Þjórsárdalur 134-5 Museum 98-9 health 393 Vatnajökull National horses, see Icelandic Gerðuberg 193 Heiðmörk Nature Park 331 Reserve 66-7 horses geysers 365-6 western Mývatn 268 Heimaey 163-9, 165, 16 hot springs 365-6, 237, Geysir 116-17, 29 Þórsmörk 152 see also geothermal Heimaklettur 164 ghosts 380 history 22, 354-63 pools Heinabergsjökull 330, 331 Giantess 105 Danish rule 358 Gunnuhver 109 heitur pottur, see hot-pots Gjáin 134 financial crisis 361-3 Krauma 178 135, 253, glacier walks 42, 72 252 first national Landmannalaugar 146 glaciers & ice caps 366 Hekla Center 134 assembly 355-7 Reykhólar Sea Baths 197 Fláajökull 330, 331 Helgafell (Heimaey) 166 independence 359-60 Seltún 110 Heinabergsjökull 330, Helgafell (Stykkishólmur) Irish monks 354 hot-pots 9, see also 185, 188 331 Norwegian influence 358 geothermal pools Hella 136-8 Hoffellsjökull 330, 331 Saga Age 357-8 Hrauneyjar 344-5 Hellisgerði 99 Kverkjökull 349-50 Sturlung Age 357-8 179 Hellisheiði Geothermal Kvíárjökull 327 US military Hrífunes 316 Power Plant 121 Langjökull 180 presence 360 Hrísey 251 Hellissandur 189 Mýrdalsjökull 154 Vikings 354-5, 356 Hrútafjörður 224 Hellnahellir 134 Skaftafellsjökull 321 WWII 360 huldufólk 380 Hellnahraun 191 Snæfellsjökull 190 hitching 407 Húnaflói 224 Hellnar 191 Sólheimajökull 154 Hjálparfoss 129 Húsafell 179-80 Hengifoss 293 Svínafellsjökull 324 Hjalteyri 241 Húsavík 270-6, Herðubreið 348 272 Vatnajökull 329 Hjarðarholt 195 Húsavík Whale Herðubreiðarlindir 347-8 Gljúfurárbui 141 Hlíðarendi 141 Museum 270-1 Herjólfsdalur 166 141 Hljómskálagarður Húsey 300 Herring Era Museum 233 171 Park 57-8 Húsið á Eyrarbakka 124 Highlands National Goðafoss 258-9 HNLFÍ Health Clinic & Hvalfjörður 171 Park 347 Spa 122 Goðaland 152 Hvallátur 200 highlands, the 50, 338-50, Hof 326 Hvammstangi 180, 224-5 Golden Circle 48, 100, 340-1 111-20, Hoffellsjökull 330, 331 Hvannadalshnúkur 325-6 102-3 highlights 338, 340-1 golf 166, 245 Hofsós 231-2, 12 Hveradalir 343 history 345, 349 Grænavatn 110-11 Hólar í Hjaltadalur 231 planning 338, 342 Hveragerði 120-3, 121 great skuas 319 Hólaskjól 139 tours 339, 346-7 416 Hveragerði Stone & tourist information 398 Kling & Bang 64 Vatnshellir 190 Geology Exhibition 121 transport 401 Kolugljúfur 226 Viðgelmir 180 Hveravellir Nature Ísafjarðardjúp 212-17 Kópasker 281 Laxness, Halldór 111, 373 Reserve 342-3 Ísafjörður 207-11, 208 Kópavogur 98-9 legal matters 391, 394 Hverfisgallerí 64 islands Krafla 269-70, 262 Leifsbúð 194 Hverfjall 265 Drangey 230 Krauma 178 LGBTI travellers 90, 394

INDEX INDEX Hvítá river 118 Grímsey 260-1 Krýsuvík 99 Library of Water 181-3 Hvítárvatn 342 Hrísey 251 Kverkfjöll 349-50 lighthouses Hvítserkur 225 Viðey 98 Kverkfjöll route 349-50 Malarrif 190

H-M Hvolsvöllur 138-40 211 Kvíkan 109 Reykjanesviti 109 hydroelectric power 368-9 itineraries 28-35, 237, 28, Listasafn Árnesinga 121 hypothermia 393 30, 33, 34 literature 137, 371 L Höfn 333-6, 334 live music 374 Lagarfljót 292-4 Höfði 266 Ljósafoss Power Lagarfljótsormur 292 Hörðubreið lookout 139 J Station 113 Jeep tours 37, 69, 71 lagoons 21-2 Höskuldsstaðir 195 Ljótipollur 146 Askja route 346-7 Lakagígar 317-18 Lofthellir 266 east Iceland 289 lakes Lómagnúpur 318-19 I Egilsstaðir 289 Grænavatn 110-11 Lóndrangar 190 i8 64 Geysir 116 Kleifarvatn 110 Lónsöræfi 337 ice caps, see glaciers & highlands, the 342, Laugarvatn 114-16 ice caps lopapeysur 94, 255 346-7 Mývatn 259-69, 262 ice caves 235, , Lýsuhóll 193 235 252 Kjölur route 339 Tjörnin 55 Kverkfjöll 349-50 Lýsuhólslaug 193 Kverkfjöll route 349 Víti (Askja) 348, 349, 16 Skaftafell 321-2, 323 Lögberg 112-13 Lónsöræfi 337 Víti (Krafla) 269 ice climbing 72 Mývatn 261 Þingvallavatn 113 Icelandic Airwaves 27 Patreksfjörður 202 Öskjuvatn 348, 349 M Icelandic Emigration Vatnajökull 329, 330 Laki 317-18 Mælifell 163 Center 231-2 Vík 161 Landlyst 164 magazines 397 Icelandic Folk Music Þórsmörk 152-3 Magni 253, Centre 233 Landmannalaugar 146-8, 38 253 Jón Sigurðsson Memorial Landskirkja 166 Malarrif 190 Icelandic Folk & Outsider Museum 204 Art Museum 258 Langanes 283 maps 370, 394 Jónsson, Einar 65 Icelandic Goat Centre 179 Langisjór 139 measures 397 Jökuldalur 139 Icelandic Horse History Langjökull 180-1, 31 medical services 393 Centre 231 Jökulsárgljúfur (Vatnajökull Melrakkaey 187 National Park – North) language 408-10 microbreweries 82, 86, 88, Icelandic Horse Park – 276-80 Látrabjarg Peninsula 200-1 Fákasel 123 242, see also beer Jökulsárlón 11, 327-9, 2, Laugafell 344 Icelandic horses 123, 231, midges 265 5, 10, 41 Laugar 195 227, 367, , , see midnight sun tours 246 12 159 Laugar Spa 67 also horse riding Minjasafn Egils Ólafssonar Laugardalslaug 67 Icelandic language 408-10 Museum 200 K Laugardalur 66 Icelandic Museum of Rock Kaldidalur Corridor 180-1 Mjóifjörður 213, 302 Laugarvatn 114-16 ‘n’ Roll 105 Kárahnjúkar dam 294 mobile phones 397 Laugavegurinn hike 148-9, Icelandic Phallological Katla 253 Móði 253 151, 150, 38 Museum 64 Katla Geopark 160 money 19, 394-5 laundry 397 Imagine Peace Tower 98 kayaking 42-4 motorcycle travel 403-7, caves, see caves immigration 398-9, 400 Flateyri 206 see also car travel, lava fields Ingjaldsandur 205 Seyðisfjörður 299 road trips Bárðarbunga 350 Ingólfshöfði 326-7 Þórshöfn 282 mountain biking, see also insurance Berserkjahraun 185 cycling Keflavík 105-8, 106 car 405-6 Dimmuborgir 266 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 314 Kelduhverfi 276 health 393-4 Holuhraun 348-9 Lakagígar 318 Keldur 138 internet access 394 Lakagígar 317-18 museums & galleries, see Kerið 119 internet resources 59 Leirhnjúkur 269 also cultural centres Kerlingarfjöll 343 accessible travel 398 northern Mývatn 268 Akureyri Art Kervíkurfjall 166 LAVA – Iceland & Museum 243 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 314-17 Earthquake Center 138 Akureyri Museum 243 Kirkjufell 139, 186, 133 lava tubes 72 Árbær Open Air Map Pages 000 Kjölur route 339, 342-3 Snæfellsjökull National- Museum 66 Photo Pages 000 Kleifarvatn 110 Park 189-90 417 Ásgrímur Jónsson Museum of Icelandic Víkingaheimar 105 food 221 Collection 65 Sorcery & Volcano Museum 181 highlights 222-3 ASÍ Art Museum 64 Witchcraft 218 Westfjords Heritage itineraries 246 Bjarnarhöfn Shark National Gallery of Museum 207 road distances 221 Iceland 64-5 Museum 185-6 Whales of Iceland 59 Northern Lights 9, 27, 73, National Museum 65 Borgarfjördur Wilderness Center 293 156-7, 323, 2, 5, 9, 133,

Museum 175 Natural History Þórbergssetur 329-30 156-7 INDEX Museum 212 Brydebúð 161 music 373-4 northern Mývatn 268-9 Natural History Museum Bustarfell 283-4 music festivals Núpsstaður 319 Byggðasafnið Hvoll 240 of Kópavogur 99 -Bræðslan 26 Nýidalur 344  M Culture House Nonnahús 243 Eistnaflug 26 NÝLO 64  P (Húsavík) 271 Nonsense Museum 206 Folk Music Festival 26 Culture House Norska Húsið 181 (Reykjavík) 64 NÝLO 64 Iceland Airwaves 27 O Dalir Heritage Old Blacksmith’s Reykjavík Jazz Oddi 137 Festival 27 Museum 195 Workshop 204 Ofanleitishamar 166 Secret Solstice 25-6 Duushús 105 Old Bookstore in Ólafsfjörður 239-40 Skálholt Summer Einar Jónsson Flateyri 206 Ólafsvík 188 Concerts 26 Museum 65 Ósvör Maritime Ólafsvíkurkirkja 188 Museum 211-12 Mýrdalsjökull 154 Eldheimar 164 Old Blacksmith’s Mýrdalssandur 163 Exploration Museum 271 Pakkhúsið Workshop 204 (Hafnarfjörður) 99 Mývatn 259-69, Frakkar á 262 Old Harbour 58 Pakkhúsið (Ólafsvík) 188 Möðrudalur 270 Íslandsmiðum 306 Old Reykjavík 54 Reykjavík Art Gallerí Fold 64 Omnom Chocolate 59 Museum 55 Garður Folk Museum 108 opening hours 395, 396 Reykjavík Art Museum – N Gerðarsafn Art Námafjall 269 Orgelsmiðjan 125 Museum 98-9 Ásmundarsafn 66 Reykjavík Art Museum – names, Icelandic 379, 399 Ósvör Maritime Hafnarfjörður National Gallery of Museum 211-12 Museum 99 Kjarvalsstaðir 64 Iceland 64-5 outdoor activities 38-47, Herring Era Museum 233 Reykjavík Museum of Photography 55 National Museum 65 see also individual Húsavík Whale activities Saga Centre 186 national parks & Museum 270-1 reserves 368 Húsið á Eyrarbakka 124 Saga Museum 59 Sagnheimar Reykjanesfólkvangur P Hveragerði Stone & National Park 110-11 Byggðasafn 164 painting 376 Geology Exhibition 121 Snæfellsjökull National Selasetur Íslands 224 Pakkhúsið Hverfisgallerí 64 Park 189-91 Settlement Centre 171-5 (Hafnarfjörður) 99 i8 64 Vatnajökull National Park Pakkhúsið (Ólafsvík) 188 Icelandic Emigration Settlement 13, 276-80, 293, 319- Exhibition 54-5 310 Center 231-2 24, 326, 331, 320, 13 Sigurgeir’s Bird Icelandic Folk Music Þingvellir National Park Paradíshellir 98 Museum 268 Centre 233 111-14, 132 parks & gardens Sigurjón Ólafsson Icelandic Folk & Outsider Natural History Austurvöllur 55 Museum 66 Art Museum 258 Museum 212 Heiðmörk Nature Sjómannagarður 189 Icelandic Horse History Natural History Museum of Reserve 66-7 Centre 231 Sjöminjasafnið á Kópavogur 99 Hljómskálagarður Eyrarbakka 124 Icelandic Museum of Nauthólsvík Geothermal Park 57-8 Rock ‘n’ Roll 105 Skógar Folk Museum 143 Beach 67 Höfði 266 Icelandic Phallological Skriðuklaustur 293 Neskaupstaður 304-6 Lystigarðurinn 243 Museum 64 Skrímslasetur Icelandic newspapers 397 Reykjavík Botanic Sea Monster Museum Íslenska Nikulásargjá 112 Gardens 66 Stríðsárasafnið 302 203 Njál’s Saga 140 Skrúðgarður 271 Jón Sigurðsson Memorial Snorrastofa 178 Njarðvík 105-8, 106 Skrúður 205 Museum 204 Sorcerer’s Cottage 219 passports 398-9, 400 Kling & Bang 64 Steinasafn Petru 306-7 Nonnahús 243 Norðfjörður 304-6 Patreksfjörður 201-2 Kvíkan 109 Steinshús 214 Peningagjá 112 Landlyst 164 Steypa 188 Nordic House 65 Norðurfjörður 220 Perlan 65-6 Leifsbúð 194 Sudurnes Science & petrol stations 404, 407 Learning Center 108 Norðurnámur 146 Library of Water 181-3 phonecards 397 Listasafn Árnesinga 121 Sögusetrið 138 Norska Húsið 181 north Iceland 49, 221-84, planning, see also Minjasafn Egils Ólafssonar Veiðisafnið 124 individual regions 222-3 Museum 200 Víkin Maritime budgeting 19, 385 Museum 59 accommodation 221 418 planning continued Reykjarfjörður 213, 219-20 hypothermia 393 Skarðsvík 194 calendar of events 24-7 Reykjavík 48, 52-99, 53, trekking 404 skating 67-8 Iceland basics 18-19 56-7, 60-1, 8 Saga Centre 186 Skeiðarársandur 319 Iceland’s regions 48-50 accommodation 52, 74-9 Saga Geopark 171 skiing 235 internet resources 19 activities 67 Saga Museum 59 Akureyri 243-5 itineraries 28-35, 237, courses 68 sagas 371, 372 Eskifjörður 304

INDEX INDEX 28, 30, 33, 34 day trips 69 Egil’s Saga 176 Ólafsfjörður 239 outdoor activities 38-47 discount cards 65 Njál’s Saga 140 Seyðisfjörður 299 repeat visitors 20 drinking 13, 86-9 Sagnheimar Skarðsdalur 233 P- Ring Road travel 36 entertainment 89-90 Byggðasafn 164 Skógafoss 143, 234  S tours 44-7 food 13, 52, 79-86 Salurinn 99 Skógar 143-6  travel seasons 18, 24-7 highlights 53 sandar, the 318-19 Skógar Folk Museum 143 poetry 371-2 history 54 Sandfellsheiði 325 Skriðuklaustur 293-4 politics 353 information 94-5 Sandgerði 108-9 Skrímslasetur Icelandic pop music 373-4 internet resources 59 Sauðárkrókur 228-30 Sea Monster population 353 itineraries 54 Saurbæjarkirkja 171 Museum 203 postal services 395 nightlife 13, 86-9 Saxhöll Crater 190 skuas, great 319 Power Plant Earth 109 orientation 94 scenic flights see flight skyr 383, 255 pseudocraters 267 shopping 90-4 tours Skötufjörður 212 public holidays 395-6 sights 54-67 school holidays 396 sleeping-bag puffins 16, 40, 295, 367, 17, tours 68-74 scuba diving, see diving & accommodation 390 snorkelling 35, 131 transport 52 Slyppugil Valley 152 sculpture 376 travel to/from 95-6 smoking 397 seals 41-5, 224, , travel within 96-7 41 131 Snæfell 294-5 Q Selasetur Íslands 224 Snæfellsjökull 190, 253 quad biking 72-3, 109, 141 weather 392 Reykjavík Art Museum 55 Selfoss 126-8, 127 Snæfellsjökull National Park 189-91 Reykjavík Art Museum – 141, 159 R Ásmundarsafn 66 Seljavallalaug 142 Snæfellsnes Peninsula 12, 181-93, , , , Ráðhús 55 Reykjavík Art Museum – Seltjarnarnes 66 182 12 35 43 radio 397 Kjarvalsstaðir 64 Seltún 110 Snæfjallaströnd 213-14 rafting, see white-water Reykjavík Arts Festival 374 Settlement Centre 171-5 snorkelling, see diving & rafting snorkelling Reykjavík Culture Night 26 Settlement Exhibition 54-5 Rauðanes 282 Snorralaug 178 Reykjavík Museum of Seyðisfjörður 14, 297-301, Rauðasandur 200 Snorrastofa 178 Photography 55 298, 14 snowmobiling 42, 73, 190 Rauðfeldsgjá 192 Reykjavík Zoo & Family shopping 409 snowshoeing 235 Raufarhöfn 281-2 Park 66 Siglufjörður 233-9 Sólheimajökull 154 Raufarhólshellir 121 Reynisdrangur 161 Sigurgeir’s Bird religion 353, 379-80 Reynisfjara 155 Museum 268 Sólheimasandur 154 reserves, see national ride-sharing 407 Sigurjón Ólafsson Sorcerer’s Cottage 219 parks & reserves Rif 188-9 Museum 66 South Iceland visitor centre 123 restaurants 385-6 Ring Road 11, 36-7, 307- Silfra 113, 45 Réttin 98 10, 11 Sjómannagarður 189 southeast Iceland 50, 311- 37, Reyðarfjörður 302-3 road conditions 406 Sjöminjasafnið á 312-13 Reykhólar 197 road trips 289 Eyrarbakka 124 accommodation 311, 315 food 311 Reykholt (Golden Golden Circle 112 Skaftafell 319-24, 320 Circle) 117-18 Ring Road 11, 36-7, accommodation 323 highlights 312-13 Reykholt (Upper 307-10, 11 activities 320-1 road distances 311 Borgarfjörður) 178-9 Öndverðarnes 194 food 323-4 southern Mývatn 266-7 Reykjadalur 121 rock music 373-4 tourist information 324 southwest Iceland 48, 100- Reykjahlíð 263-5 69, , Route 917 284 tours 321-3 101 102-3 Reykjanes Peninsula 101-11 accommodation 100 travel to/from 324 Reykjanesbær 105-8 food 100 weather 323 Reykjanesfólkvangur S highlights 102-3 Sæheimar 164 Skaftafellsheiði 321-4 National Park 110-11 road distances 100 safety 162, 396-7 Skaftafellsjökull 321 Reykjanesviti lighthouse 109 spas, see geothermal pools car travel 396, 401, Skagafjörður 226-31 Sprengisandur route 344-6 404, 406 Skálanes 301-2 Stafafell 337 frostbite 393 Skálholt 118-19 Stafkirkjan 164 Map Pages 000 geological risks 396-7 Skallagrímsgarður 175 Stafnsnes 166 Photo Pages 000 hiking 396-7 Skansinn 164 419 Stakkabót 166 Tindfjöll 141 Vesturbæjarlaug 67 weather 18, 24-7, 392 Stakkholtsgjá Canyon 152 Tindfjöll Circle 152 Vesturdalur 279-80 safety 393, 396 Stapafell 193 tipping 395 Viðey 98 weights 397 Steinarr, Steinn 214 Tjörnes Peninsula 276 Viðeyarstofa 98 west Iceland 49, 170-95, Steinshús 214 Tjörnin 55 Viðgelmir – the Cave 180 172-3 Stekkjarkot 105 toilets 398 Vigur 211 accommodation 170

Steypa 188 tourism, effects of 352-3, Vík 160-3, 392 food 170 INDEX Stokkseyri 124-5 370 Víkin Maritime Museum 59 highlights 172-3 Stokksnes 337 tourist information 398 Víkingaheimar 105 road distances 170

-Stóraklif 164 tours 44-7, see also boat Vikings 353, 356 western Mývatn 267-8  S Stórihver 146 tours, flight tours, Jeep Víkurkirkja 161 Westfjords 11, 49, 196-220,  Þ tours, walking tours Strandir 217-20 visas 398-9 198-9 accessible tours 398 Strokkur 116 Víti (Askja) 348, 349, 16 accommodation 196 caving 72 Stykkishólmskirkja 183 Víti (Katla) 269 food 196 children’s fares 392 Stykkishólmur 181-5, Volcano House 55 highlights 198-9 food tours 383 184, 32 Volcano Museum 181 road distances 196 glacier walks 42, 72 Stöng 134 volcanoes 364-5 Westfjords Heritage highlands, the 339, Museum 207 Stöðvarfjörður 306-7 Askja 16, 348, 349, 16 346-7, 350 whale watching 131, Súðavík 212 Bárðarbunga 350 Hvannadalshnúkur 325-7 194, 133 Suðureyri 206-7 Eldfell 166, 167 Lakagígar 318 Akureyri 247 Sudurnes Science & Reykjavík 68-74 Grímsvötn 322 Learning Center 108 Dalvík 240 Skaftafell 321-3 Hekla 135, 253, 252 Súgandisey 181 Hauganes 241 southeast Iceland 330 Helgafell 166 Sun Voyager 65 Húsavík 271-3 Vatnajökull 328, 329 Katla 160 Sundhöllin 67 Reykjavík 68 traditional music 233, 374 Kerið 119 super-Jeep tours, see Jeep Öndverðarnes 194 Laki 317-18 tours Traustholtshólmi Private whales 16, 41-2, 59, 275, Island 129 Saxhöll Crater 190 168 130, see also whale travel seasons 396 Vatnsborg 194 Surtshellir 180 watching travel to/from Iceland volunteering 213, 399 sustainable travel 80 Whales of Iceland 59 400-1, 409-10 Vopnafjörður 283-4 320-1 whaling 369 travel within Iceland 401-7, white-tailed eagles 197 Sveinsson, Ásmundur 55, 409-10 66, 105 white-water rafting 42, 44 travellers cheques 395 W Svínafell 324-5 walking, see hiking Hvítárvatn 342 trekking, see hiking Svínafellsjökull 324 walking tours Reykholt 117-18 Tröllakirkja 152 Svörtuloft bird cliffs 194 East Iceland 289, 291 Varmahlíð 227 Tröllaskagi 12, 231-42 swimming 42 Reykjavík 68 wi-fi 394 Tungustapi 195 swimming pools 21-2, see water 393 Wilderness Center 293 TV 375-6, 379 also geothermal pools waterfalls 23 wildlife 21, 131, 366-8, see TV locations 375 Akureyri 243 Aldeyarfoss 259 also individual animals & birds Hofsós 232 Aldeyjarfoss 344 wildlife watching 39-42, 131 & Systravatn V Dettifoss 280, 32 314 vacations 395-6 Dyrhólaey 154-5 Dynjandi 204, 22 Sögusetrið 138 Valahnúkur 109 Grundarfjörður 187 Fagrifoss 318 Sönghellir 193 Valahnúkur Circle 152 Hvammstangi 224 Flögufoss 307 Varmahlíð 226-8 Ytri-Tunga 193 Gljúfurárbui 141 winter travel 240, 235 Vatnajökull 253, 252 Glymur 171 T women in Iceland 378 Tálknafjörður 203 Vatnajökull beer 332 Goðafoss 258-9 work 399 taxes 395 Vatnajökull National Park Gullfoss 117 13, 276-80, 293, 319-24, taxis 407 Háifoss 134 326, 331, 320, 13 Tectonic Plates 112 Hengifoss 293 Y Vatnsborg 194 Teigarhorn 308 Hjálparfoss 129 Ytri-Tunga 193 Vatnshellir 190 telephone services 397, Hraunfossar 179 399 Vatnsnes Peninsula 225 Seljalandsfoss 141, 159 Þ television 375-6, 379 vegan travellers 386 Skógafoss 143, 234 Þingeyrar 226 thermal pools, see vegetarian travellers 386 Svartifoss 320-1 Þingeyri 204-5 geothermal pools Veiðisafnið 124 Systrafoss & Systravatn Þingvallabær 113 time 397-8 Veiðivötn 345-6 314 Þingvallakirkja 113 Tindastóll 230 16, 163-9, 17 Öxarárfoss 112 420 Þingvallavatn 113 eastern 134-6 Öskjuvatn 348, 349 Þingvellir National Park western 128-34 Ö Öxará 112 111-14, 132 Þorlákshöfn 123 Ögur 213 Öxarárfoss 112 Þjóðhátíð 26, 167 Þórshöfn 282 Öndverðarnes 194 Öxnadalur 228 Þjóðveldisbærinn 134 Þórsmörk 152-4, 43, 159 Önundarfjörður 205-6 Þjórsárdalur Þúfubjarg 190 Öskjuleið (Askja

INDEX INDEX Route) 346-9  Þ - Ö 

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 421 NOTES 422 INDEX INDEX CLAARTJE SCHOUTEN CLAARTJE -  

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Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Tube station Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Carolyn Bain A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Petersburg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia, to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to the luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slovenia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.

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