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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Alexis Averbuck My work on Iceland was a labour of love supported Many thanks to the travellers who used the last by many. Big thanks to Heimir Hansson (Westfjords), edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Jón Björnsson (Hornstrandir), Dagný Jóhannsdóttir advice and interesting anecdotes: Anna Brunner & Jessica Brooke, Bart Streefkerk, Cliff & Helen Elsey, (Southwest), Kristján Guðmundsson (West), Rag- Daniel Crouch, Elena Kagi, Eyþór Jóvinsson, Fiorella nheiður Sylvía Kjartansdóttir (Reykjavík and every- Taddeo, Gudrun Stefansdottir, Helen Simpson, Ildiko where!), Einar Sæmundsen (Þingvellir) and Helga Lorik, Janire Echevarri, John Gerrard, John Malone, Garðarsdóttir (Laugavegurinn). Svava Guðjónsdóttir Joshua Wood, Keela Shackell-Smith, Klavs Hendil, kept my statistics accurate. Edda and Páll made Linda Moore, Ling-Shao Chang, Lisa Romano, Lori Húsafell so, so special! Carolyn was once again a Zoras, Marco Conti, Marianne Backman, Marlies Van brilliant, generous, astute collaborator. Respect to Hoef, Martin Fettke, Matt Kurz, Melanie Zahnd, Peter James for his great care. Rachel, Jenny, Oren and Gordon, Peter Madsen, Peter Stern, Richard Owen, Timothy were amazing BOB-sters, making Icelandic Ryan Nix, Sarah Britton, Sebastian Steel, Semir Jahic, escapades a family adventure. Ryan = peachy. Sonia Martinez, Steve Eldridge, Sylvia Perez, Terry Bedard, Victoria Courtney, Vidal de Freitas Mansano ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson WRITER THANKS BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Carolyn Bain Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. I wish I had the space to thank every Icelander (and expat and fellow traveller) who, over the course of my Cover photograph: Geothermal field, Kerlingarfjöll, visits, has helped me see more, understand more and Martin M303/Shutterstock © enjoy more – from guesthouse owners and national park rangers to highland tour drivers. A heartfelt takk fyrir to so many people for great conversations, invaluable information and so many acts of kindness. Cheers to James Smart for my favourite gig, and bouquets to my superb project collaborator, Alexis Averbuck. 412 This guidebook was produced Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, THIS BOOK by the following: Saralinda Turner This 10th edition of Lonely Destination Editor James Cartographer James Leversha Planet’s Iceland guidebook Smart Cover Researcher Naomi was researched and written Product Editor Tracy Whitmey Parker by Carolyn Bain and Alexis Senior Cartographer David Thanks to Imogen Bannister, Averbuck. The previous edition BEHIND THE SCENES Kemp Dan Corbett, Gemma Graham, was also written by Carolyn Cam Ashley, Jane Grisman, Paul Harding, and Alexis. The 8th edition was Book Designers Gwen Cotter Victoria Harrison, Andi Jones, written by Brandon Presser, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor, Carolyn Bain and Fran Parnell. Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Bella Li, Anne Karyn Noble and Victoria Mulvaney, Kristin Odijk, Smith ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 413 ALPHABETICAL ORDER The Icelandic letters Þ and Ö appear at the end of the Index alphabet after the letter Z. 100 Crater Park 109 architecture 23, 376 Berserkjahraun 185 Breiðamerkurfjall 327 Arctic Fox Center 212, 213 Berufjörður 308-9 Breiðamerkursandur 327 Arctic foxes 39-40, 212, bicycle travel, see cycling Breiðavík (Snæfellsnes) 192 A 213, accommodation 23, 388-91, 130 Bíldudalur 203-4 Breiðavík (Westfjords) 200 392 see also individual Arctic Henge 281 birds 40, 367 Breiðdalsvík 308 locations area codes 397 birdwatching Breiðdalur 307-8 activities 24, 38-47, see also Árnarhóll 65 Borgarfjörður Eystri 295 Brennisteinsalda 146 individual activities Arnarstapi 191-2, 31 Langanes 283 Brennugjá 112 Áfangar 98 Arnarvatnsheiði 180 Látrabjarg Bird Cliffs 201 Bridge Between Two air travel see also flight Árnes 129 Stórhöfði 166 Continents 109 tours art galleries, see museums western Mývatn 267-8 Brimurð 166 children’s fares 391-2 & galleries Þúfubjarg bird cliffs 190 Brjánslækur 200 to/from Iceland 400 Ásbyrgi canyon 278-9 Bjarnarfjörður 219 Brydebúð 161 within Iceland 401 Ásgrímur Jónsson Bjarnarhafnarfjall 186 Búðahraun 192-3 Collection 65 Akrafjall 171 Bjarnarhöfn Shark Búðardalur 194-5 Akranes 171 ASÍ Art Museum 64 Museum 185-6 budgeting 19, 385 Akureyri 242-57, 244, 234 Askja 16, 348, 349, 16 Blue Lagoon 20, 101-5, Búðir (Fáskrúðsfjörður) 306 accommodation 247-9 Askja route 346-9 9, 159 Búðir (Snæfellsnes) 192, 34 activities 243-5 Ásmundur Sveinsson Blönduós 226 Búðir (Þingvellir) 113 sculpture 105 drinking & nightlife 251 boat tours Búland 139 ATMs 394 entertainment 251 Akureyri 247 Búlandstindur 308 aurora borealis 9, 27, 73, festivals & events 247 Heimay 167 Búrfell 129-34 156-7, 323, 2, 5, 9, 133, food 249-50 Hofsós 232 bus tours 156-7 shopping 256 Reykjavík 68-70 Mývatn 262 Aurora Reykjavík 59 sights 243 Siglufjörður 233 Reykjavík 70-1 Austurvöllur 55 tourist information 256 Stykkishólmur 183 bus travel tours 245-7 boat travel accessible buses 398 travel to/from 256-7 B to/from Iceland 400-1 children’s fares 392 travel within 257 Baðstofa 191 within Iceland 402 within Iceland 402-3, 407 weather 392 Bakkagerði 295-7 boating 42 business hours 395, 396 Akureyri Art Museum 243 Bárðarbunga 350 Bobby Fischer Center 126 Bustarfell 283-4 Akureyri Museum 243 Bárðarlaug 191 Bolungarvík 211-12 Byggðasafnið Hvoll 240 Aldeyarfoss 259 beaches books 352, 372-3 Aldeyjarfoss 344 Breiðavík 200 culture 377, 381 Almannagjá 112 Djúpalón Beach 190 fauna 368 C cafes 13 Alþingi 55 Hvallátur 200 food 382, 384 camping 20, 391, 389, 392 Alþingi Site 112-13 Ingjaldsandur 205 geology 365 car travel 403-7, see also Nauthólsvík Geothermal angelica 368 Borg á Mýrum 177-8 road trips Beach 67 animals 21, 131, 366-8, see Borgarbyggð 171-81 bringing a vehicle 403-4 also individual animals Rauðasandur 200 Borgarfjörður Eystri 14, driving licences 404 Árbæjarlaug 67 Reynisfjara 155 295-7 F roads 406 Árbær Open Air Museum 66 Skarðsvík 194 Borgarfjördur Museum 175 hire 405 Sólheimasandur 154 Borgarnes 171-7, 174 insurance 405-6 beer 88, 332, 385 Bræðslan 26, 296 internet resources 401 Map Pages 000 festivals 24 Brákin 175 maps 394 Photo Pages 000 microbreweries 82, 86, Breiðafjörður 181 88, 242 petrol 404, 407 414 car travel continued customs regulations 392 Eldfellshraun 166 Flatey 186 road conditions 406 cycling 44, 67, 68, 401-2, Eldgjá 139 Flateyri 206 road rules 394, 406-7 see also mountain Eldheimar 164 flight tours 73-4 safety 396, 401, 404, biking electricity 393 Akureyri 247 406 electronica music 373 Eyjafjallajökull 142 spare parts 404-5 D elves 380 highlands 339 INDEX cathedrals, see churches & Dalir 193-5 embassies 392 Mývatn 262 cathedrals Dalir Heritage Museum 195 emergencies 19, 398, 409 Möðrudalur 270 caves, see also ice caves Dalvík 240-1 emigration 231-2 Reykjavík 73-4 C-G Arnarstapi 192, 193 dangers, see safety energy 368-70 Skaftafell 321 Grjótagjá 265 design 23, 376 environmental Fljótsdalsheiði 294 Hallmundarhraun 180 Dettifoss 280, 32 hazards 396-7 Fljótshlíð 140-1 Hellnar 191, 192 Dimmuborgir 266 environmental issues 353 Flóahreppur 125-6 Hljóðaklettar 279 disabilities, travellers Erpsstaðir 195 Flói Nature Reserve 123-4 Höfði 266 with 398 Esja 171 Flókalundur 197-200 Lofthellir 266 discount cards 397 Eskifjörður 303-4 Flosagjá 112 Sönghellir 193 diving & snorkelling 44, 73, events, see festivals & flowers 367-8 Tindastóll 230 113, 242, 45 events Flúðir 119-20 Vatnajökull National Djúpalón Beach 190 exchange rates 19 Flögufoss 307 Park 276-7 Djúpivogur 289, 309-10 Exploration Museum 271 Fontana 114 Viðgelmir 180 dog sledding 235, 262, Eyjafjallajökull 253, 362, food 23, 80, 382-6 caving 72 364, 234 253 language 409 cell phones 397 Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Dómkirkja 56 tours 383 children, travel with 391-2 Centre 142 Drangey 230 foxes, Arctic 39-40, 212, churches & cathedrals Eyrarbakki 123-4 Drangsnes 218-19 213, 130 Akureyrarkirkja 243 Eyvindur of the Draugasetrið 124-5 Freysnes 324 Cathedral (Hólar) 231 Mountains 345 Drekagil 348 Frostastaðavatn 146 Dómkirkja 56 Drekkingarhylur 112 frostbite 393 Hallgrímskirkja 59 drinks 88, 384-5, see also F fumaroles 365-6 Húsavíkurkirkja 271 beer F roads 406 fungi 367-8 Landskirkja 166 language 409 Fagrifoss 318 Ólafsvíkurkirkja 188 water 393 Fálkí 194 Reykholt Old Church 179 driving, see car travel farmhouse accommodation G Gallerí Fold 64 Saurbæjarkirkja 171 Duushús 105 389-90 galleries, see museums & Stafkirkjan 164