©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 358 architecture 19, 316 Grímsey 202 Arctic Fox Center 171 Heimaey Arctic Fox Research Station 171 Hrísey 201 Arctic foxes 35, 37, 171, 276, 311, 36 Ingólfshöfði 276 Arctic Henge 234-5 Krýsuvíkurberg 94 Arctic terns 312 Látrabjarg 162 Ari the Learned 303, 323 Mývatn region 222-3 Arnarson, Ingólfur 46 Papey 261 Arnarstapi 153-4 Reykjavík 52 Arnarvatnsheiði 142 Sandgerði 93 Árnes (Norðurfjörður) 178 Skálanes 255 Árnes (Þjórsárdalur) 101-2 Skrúður 259 Árskógsströnd 201 Snæfellsjökull National Park 152 100 Crater Park 93 arts 315-20 Stykkishólmur 143 101 Reykjavík 316, 318 Ásatrú 324-5 Viðey 80 4WD tours 227, 236, 242, 282 Ásbyrgi 232-3 Bjarkalundur 159 Áshöfði 233 Bjarnarfjörður 177 Bjarnarflag 223-4 A Askja 217, 294-5, 293 Bjarnarhöfn 148-9 accommodation 20, 332-5, see also Askja Way 292-5 individual locations Ásmundarsafn 50 Björk 317 activities 22, 24, 32-8, see also ATMs 339 Bláa Kirkjan 251 individual activities aurora borealis 9, 25, 37, 59, 9, 179 Bláfjöll 57 Aðalból 247 Austurengjar 94 Blue Lagoon 6, 58, 88-9, 6-7 Age of Settlement 301 Austurvöllur 49 Blönduós 191-2 air travel 344, 345 boat tours, see also kayaking Akranes 135, 138 Heimaey 131-2 B Akureyri 203-15, Hvítárvatn 288-9 204-5 Baðstofa 153 accommodation 209-11 Ísafjörður 167-8 Bakkagerði 247-50 activities 207-9 Jökulsárlón 277 Bárðarlaug 153 drinking 212-13 Stykkishólmur 144-5 Básendar 93 emergency services 213 boat travel 345, 346 beaches entertainment 213 boating 32-3 Breiðavík 162 festivals 209 Bolungarvík 170 Hvallátur 162 food 211-12 books 298, 315-17 Ingjaldsandur 165 history 203 history 300, 303, 304, 305, 306 Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach 53 internet access 213 plants & animals 309, 313 Rauðasandur 162 medical services 213 Borg á Mýrum 139 Reynisfjara 118 shopping 213 Borgarbyggð 135-42 Snæfellsjökull National Park 152 sights 203, 206-7 Borgarfjörður 140-2 Vöðlavík 257 tourist offices 213-14 Borgarfjörður Eystri 11, 183, 247-50 beer 21, 201, 328-9 tours 209 Borgarnes 138-40, Beer Day 21, 329 138 travel to/from 214 Breiðafjörður 143 Bergþórshvoll 111 travel within 214 Breiðamerkurfjall 277 Bersekjahraunsvegur 148 Aldeyjarfoss 291 Breiðamerkursandur 276-7 berserkers 150 Álfaborg 248 Breiðárlón 277 Berserkjahraun 148 Álftavatn 123 Breiðavík 154-5, 162 Berufjörður 261 Almannagjá 96-7 Breiðdalsvík 260 bicycle travel, see cycling Alþing 96, 301-3 Breiðdalur 261 Bíldudalur 163-4 Alþingi 49 Brennisteinsalda 121-2 birds 37, 183, 270, 312, 182-3, see animals 18, 35, 37, 38, 183, 311-12, also individual species brennivín 329 , see also individual species 182-3 museums 223 breweries 201 books 309 birdwatching 37 Bridge Between Two Continents 93 Árbæjarlaug 53 Borgarfjörður Eystri 248 Brjánslækur 159 Árbæjarsafn 51 Dalvík 201 Bruggsmiðjan 201 Drangey 196 Brunnar 162 Brunnhorn 284 000 Map pages Eldey 93 Flói Nature Reserve 105 Bræðslan 24, 249 000 Photo pages Garðskagi headland 92 Búðaklettur 154 359 Búðardalur 156 cinema 298, 318-19 economy 298, 299, 307-8 Búðavík 154-5 climate 16, 21-5, 336, 340 Egil’s Saga 139, 141, 316 budget 16, 17 Columbus, Christopher 153 Egilsstaðir 239, 242-5, 242 Búlandstindur 261 consulates 337 Einar Jónsson Museum 50 Búrfell hydroelectricity plant 102 costs 16, 17, 333 Eiríksstaðir 155-6 bus travel 346-7, 351 courses 63 Eistnaflug 23-4 Ring Road 31 craters, see volcanoes & craters Eldey 93 tours 59 credit cards 339-40 Eldfell 130, 131 INe business hours 335 culture 299, 321-5 Eldfellshraun 131 d Byggðasafn 190 currency 340 Eldfjallasafn 143 Bæjarstaðarskógur 273 customs regulations 336 Eldhraun 223 X B-F cycling 31, 33, 252-3, 272, 345-6, 351 electricity 337 tours 52, 216-17 c Eliasson, Olafur 320 campervan hire 348-9 embassies 337 canyons d emergencies 341, 353 Ásbyrgi 232-3 Dagar Myrkurs 25, 243 Emstur 123 Drekagil 294 Dalir 155-7 environmental issues 314 Fjarðrárgljúfur 268 Dalvík 200-1 Erik the Red 156, 302 Kolugljúfur 191 dangers 340-1, 349-51 Erpsstaðir 156 car & motorcycle travel 17, 347-50 Days of Darkness 25, 243 Erró 320 driving licences 347 Deildartunguhver 141 Esja 135 Eskifjörður 256-8 F roads 31, 348, 350 Dettifoss 234, 10, 186 Fjallabak route 125 Dimmuborgir 221 etiquette 299, 325 hire 348-9 disabilities, travellers with 342 events, see festivals & events insurance 349 diving & snorkelling 35 exchange rates 17 internet resources 347 Eyjafjörður 207 Eyjafjallajökull 114, 180, 298-9, 308, parking 349 Grímsey 207 181 Eyjafjörður 207, 215 Ring Road 11, 30-1, 306, 10, 307 Reykjavík 56-7 Eyjan (Ásbyrgi) 232 river crossings 350 Þingvellir 97 Eyjan (Vesturdalur) 233 road distances 44, 85, 134, 158, djammið 74 Eyrarbakki 105 187, 238, 263 Djúpadalur 159 Eyrbyggja Saga 150, 316 road rules 349 Djúpalón 152 Eystrahorn 284 Rte 85 235 Djúpalónssandur 152 Rte 590 155 Djúpavík 177 Rte 870 235 Djúpivogur 261-2 f Rte 917 237 dolphins 38, 257, 312 F roads 31, 348, 350 safety 340, 349-50 Drangey 196 Faeroe Islands 78 Sprengisandur Route 290-2 Drangsnes 176-7 Fagrifoss 269 caves Drekagil 294 Fálkí 152 Kverkfjöll 295 drinks 328-9 Fáskrúðsfjörður 259-60 Lofthellir 217 Dritvík 152 ferry travel 345, 346 Loftsalahellir 117-18 driving, see car & motorcycle travel festivals & events 21-5, see also Raufarhólshellir 104 DVDs 338 individual festivals & locations Sönghellir 154 Dynjandi 164 films 298, 318-19 caving 57-9, 98 Dýrafjörður 165 Fimmvörðuháls 12, 116, 186, 12 cell phones 341 Dyrfjöll 250 financial crisis 298, 307, 308 children, travel with 335-6 Dyrhólaey 117-18 fishing 53, 149, 166, 201, 222, 227, Christianity 325 260, 261 churches industry 306-8 Akureyrarkirkja 203, 206 e Fjallabak route 125 earthquakes 94, 103, 229, 234 Bakkagerðiskirkja 249 Fjallsárlón 277 east Iceland 41, 238-62, 240-1 Dómkirkja 49 Fjarðrárgljúfur 268 accommodation 238 Hallgrímskirkja 46, 23 Flatey 148 food 238 Hólar í Hjaltadalur 197 Flateyri 165-6 highlights 240 Húsavíkurkirkja 225 Fljótsdalsheiði 246 eastern Húnaflói 190-2 Papey 261 Fljótshlíð 113 eastern Mývatn 221-2 Stykkishólmskirkja 143 Flói Nature Reserve 105 Eastfjords 247-62 Þingeyrar 191 Flókalundur 159 360 Flúðir 101 geothermal power 223, 224, 314 Hallmundarhraun 142 Fólksvangur Neskaupstaðar 258 geysers 98-9, 310-11 Hallormsstaðaskógur 245 Fontana 97-8 Geysir 98-9 handball 324 Fontur 236 Gjástykki 225 Harðráði, Harald 302 food 20, 326-30, see also individual Gjógv 78 Hårfagre, Harald 302 locations glaciers & ice caps 311 Harpa 48, 319 books 330 hikes & walks 33, 57 Hauganes 201 costs 328 Kvíárjökull 276 Haukadalur 165 INe customs & celebrations 329 Mýrdalsjökull 117 health 337-8 d fish & seafood 326 safety 341 Héðinsfjörður 198 X hákarl 148-9, 327 Skaftafellsjökull 273 Heimaey 14, 128-33, 129, 14 F-H hot dogs 330 Snæfellsjökull 151-2, 180 Heitulækir 273 language 353 Sólheimajökull 57, 117 Hekla 109, 180, 181, 302 meat 327 Svínafellsjökull 275, 180 Helgafell (near Heimaey) 131 self-catering 330 Vatnajökull 180, 266, 282, 311, 180 Helgafell (Stykkishólmur) 147-8, 149 skyr 327 Öræfajökull 275 Helgustaðanáma 257 sweets & desserts 327-8 Glaumbær 194 Hella 109-11 vegetarians & vegans 330 glíma 324 Hellisgerði 81 football 323-4 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum 80 Hellisheiði 237 Foss á Siðu 268 Gljúfurárbui 113 Hellissandur 151 Fremrihnaukur 273 Glymur 135 Hellnar 153 Frostastaðavatn 122 Goðaborg 258 Hengifoss 245 frostbite 338 Goðafoss 215 Héraðssandur 237 Fræðasetrið nature centre 93 Goðaland 116, 126 Herðubreið 294, 293 fumaroles 311 Golden Circle 39, 58, 95-102 Herðubreiðarlindir 293-4 fungi 313 golf 198, 200, 209 Herjólfsdalur 131 graphic design 319 Herring Era Museum 198 G Greenland 77 Herring Festival 24, 198 galleries, see museums & galleries Grenivík 215 Hestir 78 gardens, see parks & gardens Grettir’s Saga 196, 316 hidden people 20, 81, 324 Garðskagi headland 92 Grettislaug 196 highlands, the 41, 285-96, 286-7 Garður 92-3 Grímsey 176, 202 highlights 286-7 Gauksmýri 191 Grímsvötn 271, 308 travel within 288 Gay Pride festival 24 Grindavík 93-4 hiking & walking 18, 33-4, 186 gay travellers 24, 73, 337 Grjótagjá 221 Akureyri 208-9 genetic research 323 Grótta 52 Ásbyrgi 233 geography 309-11 Grundarfjörður 149-50, 13 Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss 186, 232 geology 309-11 Grænalón 271 Askja Trail 292 geothermal areas, see also lagoons; Grænavatn 94 Borgarfjörður to Seyðisfjörður 249 pools, spas & hot-pots Guðmundsson, Guðmundur 320 Bæjarstaðarskógur 273 Austurengjar 94 Gullfoss 99 Dettifoss 234 Bjarnarflag 223-4 Gunnarsson, Gunnar 245-6 Dimmuborgir 221 Djúpadalur 159 Gunnuhver 93 Dyrfjöll 250 Hveragerði 102-3 Fimmvörðuháls 12, 116, 186, 12 Hveravellir 289 Goðaborg 258 Hverir 224 h Háafjall 194 Grænalón 271 Krafla 224-5 Haarde, Geir 308 Hekla 109 Kverkfjöll 295 Hafnaberg 93 Hellnar to Arnarstapi 154 Landmannalaugar 58, 121-2 Hafnarfjörður 81-4, Herðubreið 294 Reykhólar 159 82 Hafnarfjörður Viking Festival 22 Hlíðarfjall 223 Reykjadalur 103 Hafnarhólmi 248 Hljóðaklettar 233 Reykjavík 53 Hafnarhús 50-1 Hólmanes Peninsula 257 safety 341 Hafnir 93 Hólmatungur 233 Seltún 94 Hafursey 121 Hornstrandir Peninsula 173, 174, 7 Háifoss 102 Hringbrautin 290 Hvannadalshnúkur 275-6 000 Map pages hákarl 148-9, 327 Hvannagil 283 000 Photo pages Hallgrímskirkja 46, 23 Hveragerði 103 361 Kerlingarfjöll Loop 186, 290 Hólmáfossar 233 Höfn 279-83, 280 Krafla 224 Hólmanes Peninsula 257 Höskuldsstaðir 156 Kverkfjöll route 295 Hólmatungur 233-4 Landmannalaugar 121-2 Hólmavík 175-6 I Langanes 236 Hornbjarg 171 ice caps, see glaciers & ice caps Laugavegurinn (Landmannalaugar to Hornstrandir Peninsula 173-5, ice skating 57 Þórsmörk) 123-6, 186, 124, 186 172-3, 7 Iceland Airwaves 25 Lónsöræfi 283, 284 horse riding