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TUSCANY TRAVELS THROUGH ART

Searching for brilliance in the footsteps of , important historical figures, poets and musicians TRAVELS THROUGH ART Searching for brilliance in the footsteps of scientists, important historical figures, poets and musicians

The first guide that leads to the discovery of poets, and musicians, scientists and religious figures, politicians and revolutionaries, great historical figures who, over the centuries, have made their home in Tuscany, and who have left an indel- ible mark of their presence in the region, making it famous worldwide.

Page after page give visitors on the road an opportunity to discover a different Tuscany through the lives and achievements, the inventions, the words and mu- sic of these geniuses; new routes are revealed across cities and borghi, famous sites and hidden corners. A fresh interpretation of the area for locals too, to find out more about the great people of the whose names now identify our squares and streets.

Tuscany is a region that has always been a source of to great men and women: through their biographies, the places where they worked and lived, accompanied by a wealth of images, we find, in this travel guide, a new way to perceive the true soul of this extraordinary land that continues, century after century, to attract visitors from across the world.

SOME PLACES ALONG THE ITINERARIES ARE MARKED FOR RELEVANCE. ** NOT TO BE MISSED * INTERESTING

AND TO AVOID GETTING LOST ALONG THE WAY, EACH SECTION IS WELL MARKED

SCIENTISTS HISTORICAL FIGURES POETS AND MUSICIANS

Enjoy the read and the journey! Index of artists

SCIENTISTS HISTORICAL FIGURES POETS AND WRITERS MUSICIANS

4 Barsanti e Matteucci 32 Anna Maria Luisa De' Medici 77 Carlo Lorenzini detto Collodi 107 Luigi Boccherini 6 Andrea Cesalpino 36 Sant'Antonino 79 Gabriele D'Annunzio 109 Ferruccio Busoni 7 Paolo Dal Pozzo Toscanelli 40 San Bernardino Da 81 110 Giulio Caccini 8 Egnazio Danti 42 Santa Caterina da Siena 83 112 Enrico Caruso 10 Enrico Fermi 44 Francesco Datini 85 Francesco Guicciardini 114 Alfredo Catalani 12 Galilei 46 San Francesco 86 116 Luigi Cherubini 14 50 Leone X 87 117 Guido Chigi Saracini 15 Antonio Meucci 52 Lorenzo de' Medici detto 89 119 Luigi Dallapiccola 16 Pier Antonio Micheli "Il Magnifico" 90 Niccolò Machiavelli 120 Ruggero Leoncavallo 18 Francesco Redi 54 Napoleone Bonaparte 92 Curzio Malaparte 122 Pietro Mascagni 20 Niccolò Stenone 56 Pietro Leopoldo d'Asburgo Lorena 93 Fosco Maraini 124 Guido Monaco d' 21 Giovanni Targioni Tozzetti 58 Pio II 95 126 23 60 Beato Vivaldo Stricchi 96 128 24 Giovanni Da Verrazzano 97 Giovanni Pascoli 130 Gioacchino Rossini 26 Amerigo Vespucci 98 Francesco Petrarca POETS AND WRITERS 28 100 Guido Piovene 30 Leonardo Ximenes 62 101 Agnolo 64 Alighieri 103 Vasco Pratolini 68 Pietro Aretino 104 Salvatore Quasimodo 69 Ludovico Ariosto 105 Federigo Tozzi 70 Giovanni Boccaccio 106 72 Dino Campana 74 Giosuè Carducci 76 discovery eugenio barsanti felice matteucci

guarantee protection of the patent. Barsanti, who had left for Seraing to check on production, died two months after his arrival in Belgium, in April 1864. In 1877, when Matteucci was faced with the invention of the combustion being attributed to Nikolaus August Otto, he claimed ownership by adducing registration of the patent in numerous European countries, but never managed to receive recognition

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY for himself or Barsanti. Felice Matteucci rests in the chapel of Montalvo in , where he was town councillor from 1865 to 1875. Below are photos of Barsanti and Matteucci.

(LU)

eugenio Barsanti CHIESA DI S. AGOSTINO (Pietrasanta, 1821 – Seraing, 1864) Via Sant’Agostino, 1

Cenotaph with Bust of father Felice matteucci Eugenio Barsanti, by Leone (, 1808 – [lucca], 1887) Tommasi, copy of the original in Santa Croce.

It was they who invented the internal combustion engine. Eugenio Barsanti was born in Pietrasanta, in via Giuseppe Mazzini n. 77 – a plaque marks the MUSEO PADRE EUGENIO BARSANTI  LUCCA  event – and when he was just twenty years old he was professor of philosophy, Palazzo Panichi, via Marzocco, 1 and elementary at the College of San Michele in Volt- FONDAZIONE BARSANTI E * OSSERVATORIO XIMENIANO erra. He was ordained a priest in 1845, in 1849 he arrived in Florence, and was Relics of father Eugenio Barsanti MATTEUCCI Piazza San Lorenzo, 6 called to the Ximeniano Observatory by the Scolopi fathers. Felice Matteucci brought back from Seraing by his Via San Micheletto, 3 www.ximeniano-florence.it brother Luigi in 1864. www.barsantiematteucci.it also lived in Florence, though he was born in Lucca, in piazza del Giglio n. 2, as Reproduction of Barsanti and the plaque tells us; in 1838 he had married Giulia Ramirez di Montalvo, last de- MUNICIPIO  (PI) Matteucci’s internal combustion scendent of a noble family of Spanish origins, and she moved to Campi Bisen- Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 29 engine zio. In 1851 he met father Eugenio Barsanti and was fascinated by his revolu- PINACOTECA E MUSEO CIVICO tionary ideas about the internal combustion engine. From that moment on Bust of father Eugenio Barsanti Via dei Sarti, 1 * BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE ntonio Bozzano, ca. 1909, marble. Piazza di Santa Croce they worked together to develop the invention. In Florence the two men built Original instruments belonging an internal combustion engine, the first in the world which, with a mixture of www.santacroceopera.it  to Barsanti air and hydrogen, was able to lift pistons with greater power than the steam (LU) Commemorative plaque and bust engine. Indeed, not only did Barsanti and Matteucci develop the combustion of Eugenio Barsanti, by Leone Via Padre Eugenio Barsanti, 11  CAMPI BISENZIO (FI) engine, they also invented the hydrogen engine. The invention was patented Tommasi. Also conserved here are in 1853 at the Accademia dei Georgofili and in 1854 the process began to patent Bust portraying father Eugenio VILLA MONTALVO, the ashes moved from the Florentine in , England, Prussia, Belgium and , by means of the creation Barsanti copy of the bust by Leone Via di Limite, 15 church of San Giovannino degli Scolopi in 1954. of a company. At that time, however, was not yet united and could not Tommasi. The tomb of Felice Matteucci, chapel. 6 Paolo dal Pozzo toscanelli IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY (Florence, 1397 – , 1482) IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY

andrea Cesalpino Mathematician, astronomer and cartog- Portrait of Toscanelli, detail (arezzo, 1524 ca. – , 1603) rapher, his friendship with Filippo Bru- ,1556-1558.

nelleschi was the catalyst for the dome of ** GNOMONE, CUPOLA Born in Arezzo, in Corso Italia (a plaque Adolfo De Carolis, Aretini illustri, Santa Maria del Fiore (1420-1436), where SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE 1922-1924, fresco. Toscanelli devised the highest gnomon at number 152 commemorates his place Piazza del Duomo of the era (1475 ca.). Brunelleschi also of birth) into a family originating from www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it Lombardia (Gallia Cisalpina, hence his sur-  PISA sought his help in erecting the church of Santo Spirito. The , who resided Cappella di Santa Croce name) Cesalpino. He moved to Pisa in 1544 to take lessons in botany and medicine OSPEDALE DI S. CHIARA in Piazza Pitti, determined the position at the university; here, after graduating, Via Roma, 67 of several comets, tracing their orbits on * BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE star charts. He would also participate in , 16 he first became Prefect of the Botani- A plaque marks his anatomical studies. www.santacroceopera.it cal Gardens then, sixteen years later, re- meetings helped by the Humanists at the ceived the tenure of the faculty of medi- convent of Santa Maria degli Honoroary monument ARSENALE cine. Ill feeling with colleagues and an Lungarno Ranieri Simonelli Angeli. Toscanelli is thought to have de- accusation of heresy pushed him to move signed a planisphere based on Ptolemy’s * PALAZZO DAL POZZO A plaque reminds visitors that from Geography, and his letter to King Alfonso TOSCANELLI to Rome in 1592, to serve Clement 1544 to 1563 this spot was a botanical V of Portugal, in which he wrote that the Piazza Pitti, 18 VIII. He wrote many treatises, his papers garden. focused on the heart and the circulatory fastest route to East Asia was via the At- Commemorative plaque

system: this is the reason why Cesalpino’s ** ORTO BOTANICO lantic, has become famous: Christopher statue, located in one of the alcoves in the Via Luca Ghini, 5 Columbus knew of it and had transcribed VIA TOSCANELLA Loggiato at the , shows him as he www.ortobotanicoitalia.it/toscana/pisa it in one of his own books. Property of the Toscanelli family, holds his wrist and takes his pulse. with the remains of the famous "well"  FLORENCE  FLORENCE ["Pozzo"]  AREZZO * LOGGIATO DEGLI UFFIZI ** SALA DI COSIMO IL VECCHIO PALAZZO DELLA PROVINCIA, SALA DEL MUSEO DI CONSIGLIO (SALA GRANDE) Pio Fedi, Andrea Cesalpino, 1854, Piazza della Libertà marble museicivicifiorentini..fi.it

8 9 10 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY in Rome and became Bishop of Alatri, where he died. the Gregorian Calendar, elaborated He in1582. held many important positions pal mathematician inthe Vatican State and participated inthe reformation of I, was not particularly fond of Danti and had himmoved to . He was pa - nines –was finally abandoned once and for all. Francesco I,successor of Cosimo with acanal and system of locks, artificial lakes and tunnels under the Apen- his great project to connect Florence with the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic seas – the Dominican convent, . Following the death of Cosimo I, ematics at the universities of Florence, Pisa and Bologna and lived for while at build aconvent inhiscity of birth. He received tenure at the faculty of math- in Palazzo Vecchio. He was highly esteemed by Pope Pius V, who invited him to panels set inthe wardrobes lining the walls of the Hall of Geographical Maps, Bonsignori, he painted 53 cartographies of the regions of the world on wooden and astronomical studies. In collaboration with the Olivetan brother, Stefano rapher at the Medici Court, contributing to the of mathematical Florence by Cosimo I to teach hischildren Mathematics and he became cosmog- where he cultivated mainly hismathematical studies. he Inwas 1562 invited to in hisfather’s workshop, later, asayoung man, entering the and He was aDominican bishop of the , astronomer, 1536–alatri,(perugia, 1586) Danti egnazio geographer. Born into anoble family, he began working life asagoldsmith mathematician

egnazio Danti discovery painting andterrestrial globe * Hall of Geographical Maps,53 www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it Piazza della Signoria  Medici andCardinal Ferdinando. astrolabes builtfor Cosimo de’ * Instruments, world maps ad www.museogalileo.it Piazza dei Giudici, 1 armilla andagnomon. to whichheadded anequinoctial quadrant withseveral sundials, On thefaçade hebuiltamarble www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it Piazza Santa Maria Novella * 1562-1571. PALAZZO VECCHIO GALILEO MUSEO DI STORIA SCIENZA DELLA BASILICA DI S.BASILICA MARIA NOVELLA FLORENCE discovery enrico fermi

nucleus. In 1938 he received the Nobel prize for physics and in the same year moved to the Columbia Uni- versity of New York in the USA. In 1942, at the University of Chicago, he built his first nuclear pile, and from 1943 to 1945, in a team with others, directed the construction of the first nuclear bombs. In 1944 he became an American citizen, president of the American Physics Society and he received a gold medal from Congress for having participated in the building of the first atomic bomb. He was also an associate IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY of the Lincei Academy and the Accademia d’Italia and he held his last conference in Como, at the Ital- ian Physics Society. He died of stomach cancer in Chicago and was buried in Oak Woods Cemetery. Many places in Tuscany still maintain the memory of his presence there, such as the Osservatorio di Arcetri, where one of the first atomic “Fermi seas” took place, and the commemorative plaque inside the Basilica di Santa Croce, again in Florence.

enrico fermi (rome, 1901 – chicago, 1954)

A scientist and researcher, lived in Italy, and the USA; he received a Nobel Prize and is considered the father of Nuclear Physics and of the great- est conceptual revolution following those of Galileo and Newton. After passing the entrance exam in 1919, he studied at the Normale School of Pisa (photo), in piazza dei Cavalieri and at the age of twenty, before graduating, he began to publish his works. He then studied at Göttingen and Leiden, where he met Ein- stein in 1923, and in the two years from 1924 to 1926 he became lecturer at the Università degli Studi di Florence, in Via dello Studio, where he formulated his particle statistics called “fermions”. In 1926 he was in Roma, where he won his first competition for the first of theoretical physics in Italy. In 1928 The Roman School of Physics was founded, also known as the school for “kids in via Panisperna”, directed by Corbino, and it was where Rasetti, Segré and Trabacchi were students. In 1933 Fermi elaborated the theory of “radioactive beta decay”, coining the term “neutrino”. In 1934 he turned to nuclear physics and discovered the effect of slow low energy neutrons which produce radioac- tive substances that are suitable for bombarding and penetrating the atomic 12 discovery galileo galilei

1632; with this work Galileo, for political reasons that went beyond the scientific debate, fell out of favour with Pope Urban VIII. He was therefore brought to trial by the Inquisition (1633) and forced to withdraw his ideas. He spent a brief period in “confinement” at Palazzo Piccolomini in Siena under the protective wing of archbishop Piccolomini. He moved to Florence once again and spent the last years of his life at Arcetri, completing the fundamental Discourses and Mathematical Demonstrations Relating to . On January 8th, 1642, by then completely blind, he died at his home in Arcetri. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY

 FLORENCE * VILLA DELL’OMBRELLINO OPERA DELLA PRIMAZIALE PISANA Piazza Bellosguardo, 11 Piazza del Duomo, 17 ** BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE www.regione.toscana.it/-/villa- www.opapisa.it Galileo Galilei Piazza di Santa Croce, 16 dell-ombrellino

(Pisa, 1564 – Florence, 1642) www.santacroceopera.it * GALILEO’S HOUSE ** MUSEO DOMUS GALILAEANA A scientist, astronomer and inventor, he is considered one of the greatest Galileo’s tomb , ARCETRI Via Santa Maria, 26 Made by Giovan Battista Foggini with www.domusgalilaeana.it geniuses in the history of man. The son of a musician, Galileo spent his Via del Pian de’ Giullari 42 childhood between Pisa and Florence, conducting his university studies at the his sons Giulio and Vincenzo with www.msn.unifi.it/villa-il-gioiello Girolamo Ticciati, 1737.  SIENA , though never completing them. This did not stop him from teaching mathematics in Pisa (1589) and in (1592). His first essays, concerning GALILEO’S HOUSE  PISA PALAZZO PICCOLOMINI the determination of the barycentre and military architecture, date to this Costa S. Giorgio, 19 (OR PALAZZO DELLE PAPESSE) period. It was this ability to adapt that led him, during a period of financial * BIRTH PLACE Via di Città, 126 Via Giusti, 24-26. www.comune.siena.it difficulty, to tutor young noblemen privately in and military ** architecture. Galileo supported his teaching work with a technical workshop, Piazza dei Giudici, 1 - www.museogalileo.it

run by Marcantonio Mazzoleni, which produced and sold, with a fair degree of success, geometric and military compasses, set squares and other mechanical LOGGIATO DEGLI UFFIZI instruments, also later telescopes. The essay entitled Le mecaniche (1593- Galileo, Aristodemo Costoli, 1851, marble. 1599) was written in the same period, dedicated to the exposition of simple devices. From 1604 he began to support the heliocentric theory, based on his * MUSEO astronomical observations with a telescope. This won him esteem from the Via Romana, 17 - www.msn.unifi.it scientific community and financial stability, thanks to his appointment as mathematician and philosopher to the Grand Duke of Tuscany. In August of Galileo’s astronomical tower and Tribune the same year he received a copy of Kepler’s work Mysterium cosmographicum, in which the heliocentric theory was supported with mathematical and ** SALA DI GIOVE symbolic reasoning, and Galileo declared his agreement with the idea that the GALLERIA PALATINA Earth moves. This opinion, despite Cardinal Bellarmino’s mediation, cost him - Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 condemnation by the Inquisition in 1616, though this did not stop him from publishing Dialogue Concerning the Two Chief World Systems in Florence in Justus Sustermans, Galileo, 1636, 14 oil on canvas.

16 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY tronomer Hack would say about horoscopes. As- “It’s all justfoolishness!” Margherita (florence, 1922 –,2013) margherita hack liant academic career which culminated to stellar physics and undertook abril- ardo in Arcetri. She turned her research Aldo De Rosa inthe church of SanLeon- . she married In 1944 first astronomical observations at the a classof variale stars, carrying out her a final dissertation about the attained adegree inphysics with in1945 discovered astronomy at university and her youth she was abrilliant athlete. She summer holidays at Bobolino. During Galileo lyceum, spending her childhood the San Gaggio primary school and the Ximenes with her family. She went to ence, invia Caselli, later moving to via for civil rights. She was born inFlor - religion. She was dedicated to the fight lieve inany form of supernaturalism or vegetarian and animal lover, did not be- and science communicator, Cepheids , www.arcetri.astro.it Largo Enrico Fermi, 5 ** OSSERVATORIO ASTROFISICO www.museogalileo.it Piazza dei Giudici, 1 GALILEO ** MUSEO  husband. Sant’Anna in Trieste, next to her She isburied inthe cemetery of some original autobiographies. numerous non-fiction books and to scientific essays, she wrote pean observatories. In addition important American and Euro - astronomy, working at the most tigious societies of physics and was amember of the most pres- the with the directorshipin 1964 of DI ARCETRI FLORENCE Observatory of Trieste. She

as the the as Meucci States United recognise did the year 2002 the until Not idea his own. fees patent afew paying the and later made years Bell stopped Meucci ties, Unfortunately, worked that perfectly. difficul totelephone financial due a Statesbuilt United he where itwas in the –but spoken words electrically Teatro Gran to atthe him dell’Avana of transmitting possibility –the in Cuba idea came of telephone the The used. is which still telephone ated acoustic an Teatro atthe operator machine della cre Pergola, he where assistant come –Teatro of theatres in anumber della Quarconia, Teatro –to be then Alfieri Gallo, Tusco-Emilian then San army. exciseman worked atPorta Meucci an as for is which the now abase Caterina, exconvent of in the Santa were taught subjects Science chemistry. and physics mechanics, learned also he subjects to in Florence artistic for where, in addition years, six Arti demia delle Belle Acca atthe Hestudied plaque. acommemorative –now markedChiara with via time atthat –called in via de’ Serragli 44 in Florence, atnumber born was Meucci telectrophone, telephone, the Famous first for the inventing (Florence, –newyork, 1808 1889) meucci antonio true inventor of the telephone . - - - -

17 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY discovery pier antonio micheli

In the statue sculpted in 1856 by Vincenzo Consani, for one of the alcoves in the Loggiato of the Uffizi, he is shown holding this plant and some mushrooms. In fact, he was the first scientist to demonstrate that mushrooms reproduce by way of spores, and is indeed considered the father of micology. A ceno- taph by Girolamo Ticciati with a bust and an inscription commemorate him in the Basilica of S. Croce in Florence. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY

 FLORENCE

* ORTO BOTANICO Via Micheli, 3 www.ortobotanicoitalia.it/toscana/ uniflorence

BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE Piazza Santa Croce pier antonio micheli www.santacroceopera.it (florence, 1679 – 1737) Cenotaph by Pier Antonio Micheli Girolamo Ticciati, 1737. Reading sparked his passion for Botany when his father sent him to work in a book shop at the age of fourteen. The determining event was his meeting * LOGGIATO DEGLI UFFIZI with naturist, Bruno Tozzi from Vallombrosa, who introduced him into the Florentine scientific community where he found protectors who presented Vincenzo Consani, Pier Antonio Micheli, 1856, marble. him to the court of Cosimo III. Micheli was, therefore, able to participate in numerous journeys on behalf of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, which enabled him to further his knowledge by collecting and drying a great quantity of * GIARDINO TORRIGIANI Via de’ Serragli, 146 plants. In 1718 he was nominated Director of the Botanical Gardens, at the www.giardinotorrigiani.it time known as the Garden of the Semplici of San Marco, whose management and care had been entrusted to the Florentine Botanical Society founded A column at the entrance recalls the two years earlier by Micheli himself. In 1723 his first tract was published, work of the botanist who, in 1716, had but it was six years later, with his first and only publication of the great let out part of the land for the cultiva- tion of 525 different species of plant; work Nova plantarum genera (New genera of plants) – financed by Grand the garden became famous as “sacred Duke Gian Gastone – that Micheli earned a position of prestige amongst his ground to the science of herbs”. academic peers, so much so that Linnaeus named a plant genus after him: “michelia”, belonging to the family of Magnoliaceae. 18 discovery francesco redi

 AREZZO their select wines. , * CATTEDRALE DEI SANTI in , was also famous for its PIETRO E DONATO white wines “What wine is that that Piazza Duomo runs / That has that golden hue? / It will be Malvagia, / Which has already Funeral monument to Francesco Redi honoured Trebbio» (vv. 358-361, Id.) IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY

 ** ARTIMINO E CARMIGNANO FLORENCE Famous for the Medici Villa and the * LOGGIATO DEGLI UFFIZI Rocca close to the Montalbano range Piazza Duomo and for their wines, for which Cosimo francesco redi III drew production boundaries: “But (arezzo, 1626 – pisa, 1698) Pietro Costa, Francesco Redi, 1855, marble. of that which is so pure / Harvested in Artimino / I go to tipple more than a cask”, (vv. 36-38, Id.); “But if I take a Scientist, poet, naturalist and doctor, Francesco Redi was born in Arezzo, * GIARDINO DI BOBOLI jar in hand / Of brilliant Carmignano, studied in Florence at an Institute of Jesuits, and in 1647 he graduated in Piazza de’ Pitti / Such gratitude fills my chest, / that Philosophy and Medicine in Pisa. He travelled across Italy, studying experi- Designed by Tribolo behind Palazzo I envy Jupiter neither ambrosia nor mental Biology, and later returned to Tuscany where he was assigned the Pitti, home to the Accademia del nectar” (vv. 720-723, Id.)

post Archiater to the Grand Duke Ferdinand II (1666) and then to the heir Co- Cimento and ice houses for the Medici in Montepulciano, well-known for the simo III. He focused his studies on modern languages and taught at the Stu- court: “And bring me ice / From the  LAMPORECCHIO sale of this vino Nobile celebrated dio Fiorentino; member and President of the (1655), caves at mount Bòboli” (vv. 307-308, by the poet. Photograph on adjacent and scholar of the Cimento. A plaque marks his burial place in the Duoma of Bacco in Toscana). “With the Topaz pressed in Lampo- page.

his native city and a statue of him is located in the Loggiato of the Uffizi, in recchio / A famous castle for that MONTERAPPOLI Masetto” (vv. 286-288, Id.). Florence. His most famous literary work is Il Bacco in Toscana (1685), the ana-  creontic dithyramb with which he praises wine as medicine for the body, the A hill near : “Come, come, pour soul and the intellect: “When wine is very gentle / it is soon digested / and out for me / the purple one / that in  **MONTALCINO (SI) “I, of Pescia, the Buriano / the Trebbi- is never a bother”. Tuscan wines are considered excellent, from the robust Monteràppoli / hangs in black bunches ano, the Colombano / I drink heartily” / So lovely to squeeze” (vv. 389-393, Homeland “Of the so divine / (vv. 141-143, Id.). to the sweet Vernaccia, at its best when consumed in moderation. Id.). Moscadelletto / of Montalcino” (vv. Cosimo III was certain that the excellent wines of his grand duchy would 70-72, Id.). Now famous for the Brunel-  ** achieve international success, within the context of both political prestige lo and Moscadello of Sant’Antimo. SAN GIMIGNANO (SI) * VILLA MEDICEA DI CASTELLO and economic value; therefore he favoured consolidation of the enological City of beautiful towers and old tale to whose successful building Redi had contributed. He was one of the Home to the Accademia della Crusca  **MONTEPULCIANO (SI) farms, famous because “If there is founding members of the Accademia dell’Arcadia (1685) under the pseudo- since 1965 (established in 1582); adja- anyone, who does not like / Vernaccia cent to the other named della Petraia: nym of Anicio Traustio. Famous for its select wine, / Harvested in Pietrafitta / Demented “Di Petraja and di Castello / Was first “Montepulciano is the king of all / Cursed / Get out of my sight” (vv. planted Moscadello” (vv. 57-58, Id.). 20 wines” (v. 973, Id.). Cantine del Redi, 511-516, Id.). The two were well-known for 22 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY of morality for a prince a for morality of He went on a pilgrimage to Loreto, where to Loreto,where apilgrimage on went He of the Most Holy Annunciation. image of infront the first his brated cany, he published and in 1669 ogy geol studied also He Duke. Gran the with afavourite always inBoboli, del Cimento Vecchio, Accademia the frequented he Palazzo later the at and Larga invia lived anatomical an laboratory disposal, his . He at had, he Nuova, Maria of Santa hospital home”. “true his found had he Here, inthe felt he was that it inFlorence but II inPisa, Ferdinando Duke Gran the met He in 1666. inLivorno arrival his France, and until gium –in Bel duct" "Stensen the as known duct, parotid the discovered he –where dam inAmster research his continued Stensen prohibition on dissecting cadavers, Niels of the because country his leaving After 1674, in Florence, he published his (copenaghen, –schwerin, 1638 1686) niccolò stenone and and minerology , travelling across Tus across , travelling and in 1675 he cele he in1675 and De solido De Treatise Treatise . In . In - - - - - atified was be Stenone Niccolò 1988, In sarcophagus. inaRoman served Lorenzo, con inSan remains his de' who, in1687, Medici received III Cosimo by there back brought was way from Florence, but long a died He status. toed Episcopal was promot Germany, he where and to Rome on then hausted, ex lacerated and arrived he with epigraph inLatin. Photo above. Chapel of the right transept, histomb www.basilicasanlorenzoflorence.com Piazza diSan Lorenzo *  BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO DI SAN BASILICA FLORENCE by Pope Giovanni Paolo II. Paolo Giovanni Pope by - - - - ing History, particularly the history of Tuscany. This led to his work entitled of Tuscany. entitled to work led his This history the particularly History, ing to focus study there on time his used and Library Magliabechiana of the prefect became he 1739 In Micheli. of place Antonio inthe Gardens, Botanical the to direct was appointed he that to this was it thanks and parasites etal veg on research Botany attheStudioFiorentino important out carried . He professor became and Micheli Antonio Pier under Botany of studied he then Doctor (Florence, 1712–1783) tozzetti targioni giovanni and grandchildren also became important naturalists. important became also grandchildren and His children in Florence. history of natural museum the at conserved tion, collec litho-mineralogical of important was He founder an epidemics. and floods starvation, as such issues with Tuscany, scientifically dealt he and le of topography physical and acartography redrafting region, of the aspect osservare per geographical the Piombino). tackled also He Marittima, (Volterrano, Toscana della area boric to the description parti to ascientific give first was He the Architecture. diverse in even and Zoology, Mineralogy Botany, Medicine, concerned that 12 volumes fatti viaggi d’alcuni Relazioni produzioni naturali e gli antichi monumenti di essa di monumenti antichi gli e naturali produzioni , he graduated from Pisa in Medicine and philosophy; philosophy; and inMedicine naturalist from and Pisa graduated , he . The second edition had had edition second . The - - -

23 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY discovery giovanni targioni tozzetti

 FLORENCE

* GIARDINO DEI SEMPLICI MUSEO GALILEO BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE Orto Botanico Piazza dei Giudici, 1 Piazza dei Cavalleggeri, 1 Via Pier Antonio Micheli, 3 www.museogalileo.it/istituto/bibliote- www.bncf.florence.sbn.it www.ortobotanicoitalia.it/toscana/ ca-digitale-tematica/targionitozzetti/ IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY uniflorence home-it.html The Magliabechiana Library is part of the National Library.

* MUSEO DI MINERALOGIA E * MUSEO DELLA SPECOLA LITOLOGIA Via Romana, 17 * BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE Museo di Storia naturale www.msn.unifi.it Piazza Santa Croce www.santacroceopera.it Via la Pira 4 www.msn.unifi.it/collezioni/mineralo- Formerly Palazzo Torrigiani, home of the Reale Museo di Fisica e Storia The tomb of Galileo Galilei: he partici- gia-e-litologia-2 pated in the move of Galileo’s remains. naturale, Tozzetti rearranged the col- lections which formed the museum. * ACCADEMIA DEI GEORGOFILI The tomb of Giovanni Targioni Tozzetti, with plaque and commemorative bust. Via dei Georgofili – Logge Uffizi corti evangelista torricelli www.georgofili.it (rome, 1608 – Florence, 1647)

Tozzetti was one of the founders. See photo adjacent. Throughout his lifetime, this great physicist and mathematician showed extraordinary qualities, thus leaving science an important legacy. He was educated by the Jesuits, and was a student and assistant to religious scholars such as Castelli, a high-ranking member of the clergy, and to Ciampoli, Cama- ldolese, a , then on to the court of Galileo – whom he assisted during the months immediately preceding his death – and taking over the title of math- ematician and philosopher to the Grand Duke of Tuscany. A skilled lens maker, he accrued a fortune selling them. His most significant bequest, however, covers a variety of the sciences and fields of mathematics, where he was the precursor of modern infinitesimal analysis, stretching to statics and hydrau- lic engineering. He discovered atmospheric pressure, proving the possibility of the vacuum in nature, thanks to an instrument called the “Torricelli Tube” which then became more widely known as the barometer. He died of Typhus as a young man and was buried in the Basilica of San Lorenzo, in Florence.

25 discovery Giovanni da verrazzano

America on the search for a passage to the Pacific. The enterprise was ‘sponsored’ by the King of France and financed by a group of Bankers from Lyon in association with the Florentine family Rucellai, who had a branch office in Rouen. However, he left with just one ship, his faithful Dauphine, and arrived in Florida, where he veered north and began exploring the then unknown east coast of North America, or New France, eventually reaching Newfoundland. During this expedition he entered a great bay with an IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY island at the mouth of a river, discovering the future New York. Verrazzano undertook two more voy- ages to America and in 1527 commanded an expedition towards Brazil. His last voyage began in 1528 from Dieppe with three ships, touched the shores of Florida, the Bahamas and finally the Lesser Antilles. In March 1529 he dropped anchor off the coast of a small island – most likely Guadeloupe – and went ashore. According to some sources, he was murdered and eaten by a group of indigenous cannibals.

 FLORENCE

* GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 Giovanni da verrazzano www.uffizi.beniculturali.it (Florence or , 1485 ca. – Guadalupa?, 1529 ca.) 1st corridor of the Gallery, portrait of Giovanni da Verrazzano in the Gioviana Merchant and navigator, he discovered the bay of New York and the Hudson series. River. He lived with his parents and numerous siblings in a house at Santa Croce in Florence – in the road that bears his name, at number 20, where the * VIA GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO spot is marked with a plaque – but he would soon go to Lyon where he began his A plaque marks his house. training as navigator. He sailed across the Mediterranean as far as the North

Atlantic; he appears to have been on the French shipowner, Thomas  Aubert’s expedition which left Dieppe in 1508 and reached Newfoundland. He GREVE IN CHIANTI (FI) then joined the services of Francis I of France as ship captain and commander, ** FATTORIA E CASTELLO DI and he was based in Lyon with the ports of Rouen and Dieppe nearby, from VERRAZZANO where many merchant ships left for the Cape of Good Hope and the East. Many Via Castello di Verrazzano, 1 pirate galleons also raised their anchors here, competing with the English www.verrazzano.com

for Spanish and Portuguese cargo ships laden with gold and precious wares. Giovanni became famous for his corsair: one of his trophies was the “treas- ** PIAZZA G. MATTEOTTI

ure ship” in 1522, full of Mexican gold and silver, which Cortès had sent to Monument to Giovanni da Var- Charles V. The achievements of his two fellow countrymen, Florentine Amerigo rezzano Vespucci and Giovanni Caboto in the service of , stimulated his disposi- Romeo Pazzini, bronzo, 1913. tion for exploration, and in 1524 he accepted a contract to lead four ships to 26 discovery amerigo vespucci

They were undertaken for commercial purposes and represented important opportunities for geo- graphical and anthropological discoveries, as can be gleaned from his famous letters. Upon his return to Seville, he took Spanish citizenship and obtained the title of “primo Piloto Mayor della Casa de la Contratación”, with the task of examining captains whose aspiration was to embark on transoceanic expeditions and update the geographical maps of the New World. If Amerigo’s fame is connected to his IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY name, and used to baptise the New World, this was not in fact his idea but rather that of German geogra- pher, Martin Waldseemüller, who, in 1507, unbeknownst to Vespucci and Cristoforo Colombo, wrote for the first time the name America on the Planisphere along with the Cosmographie Introductio: “a quarter part [of the world] has been discovered by Amerigo Vespucci and I do not see why anyone should have the right to oppose the idea that this part be called Amerigen, as in land of Amerigo, or America, from the wise man who discovered it , given that and Asia were given feminine names”.

 FLORENCE  GREVE IN CHIANTI (FI) amerigo vespucci * CHIESA DI OGNISSANTI ARCHIVIO DI STATO * CASTELLO DI MONTEFIORALLE

(Florence, 1454 – Sevilla, 1512) Borgo Ognissanti, 42 Viale della Giovine Italia, 6 www.chiesaognissanti.it Casa Vespucci, identified by a wasp Some of Amerigo Vespucci’s letters are on the architrave above the door, at Compianto sul Cristo morto conserved here. number 21 of the internal circular road Son of notary Nastagio dei Vespucci, a family which moved into the com- , fresco, the of the hamlet. munity of Ognissanti from the Florentine suburb of Peretola – their houses first figure on the left is presumed to used to be where the Hospital of San Giovanni di Dio is located in Florence, as be the portrait of a young Amerigo. marked out by a commemorative plaque – Amerigo received a good education For the church, see the photo on the and was introduced into the Medici . After the in adjacent page; for the fresco, the 1478, Lorenzo the Magnificent entrusted Amerigo’s uncle, Guido Antonio, with adjacent photo.

a delicate diplomatic mission to France. So, Amerigo travelled to Paris with the task of managing correspondence. Eleven letters remain of that experience PONTE AMERIGO VESPUCCI Lungarno Vespucci and they are conserved in the State Archive of Florence. Once he had returned to Florence in 1482, he entered the services of Lorenzo di Pierfrancesco, known Plaques illustrating the places of as the Popolano, cousin of the Magnifico, to manage his affairs and mingle in Vespucci’s explorations (1955). intellectual circles. In 1491 he moved to Seville to deal with a number of com- mercial and financial transactions; it was here in Spain that Amerigo met * PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI Giannotto Berardi, the most important Florentine merchant of Andalusia, Gaetano Grazzini, Amerigo Vespucci, and Christopher Columbus. Making Lisbon his base at the turn of the century 1846, marble. Amerigo’s period of transoceanic voyages began (it is unclear whether there were two or four of these), which led him to the South American coastline. 28 discovery vincenzo viviani

base for all later biographies of Galileo. In 1656 he wrote the first edition of Galileo’s writings. As Galileo had died in 1642 under the cloud of heresy, he had been granted a modest burial in a space next to the capella del Noviziato in the Basilica di Santa Croce; only in the 1730s did the Church consent to moving Galileo’s remains inside to a more honourable, richly decorated tomb, a contribution to which were some funds left by Viviani especially for this purpose, so this monument might become the sepulchre of both IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY men. On the adjacent page, a 16th century time quadrant which belonged to Viviani.

 FLORENCE

* PALAZZO DEI CARTELLONI Via Sant’Antonino, 11 BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE Piazza Santa Croce Designed by architect Giovan Battista www.santacroceopera.it Nelli, 1686-1697, this was the scien- vincenzo viviani tist’s home. * Funeral monument to Galileo (Florence, 1622 – 1703) Galilei Left nave, designed by Giulio Foggini * MUSEO DELLA SPECOLA with sculptured by Giovan Battista, Via Romana, 17 A disciple of Galilei and Torricelli, his occupation was with hydrodynamics and Vincenzo Foggini and Girolamo Ticciati, www.msn.unifi.it other issues concerning physics, and indeed mathematics. Of the experi- 1737, where Vincenzo Viviani is also ments he conducted we remember those determining the speed of sound and Tribuna di Galileo buried, bearing a commemorative the rotation of the Earth in relation to the , almost two centuries inscription. Bust and medallion depicting Vincenzo before Foucault’s famous demonstration. Appointed court mathematician to Viviani sculpted by Aristodemo Costoli Ferdinando II, he was a key member of the , and his am- and Luigi Magi, 1841. * VILLA IL GIOIELLO

bition was to study natural phenomena following the experimental Galilean Via Pian dei Giullari, 42 www.unifi.it/visita-2/villa-il-gioiello-2 method. He was also fellow of the Royal Society of and academic of * MUSEO GALILEO France. The French king assigned him a pension which permitted him to have Piazza dei Giudici, 1 Galileo spent the last years of his life www.museogalileo.it architect Giovan Battista Nelli build his Florentine home in via Sant’Antonino here in the company of Viviani, who (formerly via dell’Amore), on the site where previously the houses of the Gi- An elderly Galileo with his disciple gathered information for his biogra- phy of the master. ocondo family had been. The house is nicknamed “dei Cartelloni” because of Viviani the two large marble scrolls on the front which bear information about Viviani Painting by Tito Lessi, 1892, and and Galileo, whose lives and discoveries are described. As a science historian, various scientific instruments devised he reconstructed book V of the Chronicles of Apollonius and, in 1690, he wrote by Viviani such as the paper-ribbon hygrometre. an edition of Euclid’s Elements, but his greatest contribution is without doubt his , written in 1654, published in 1717, which constitutes the 30 discovery leonardo ximenes

 FLORENCE

** OSSERVATORIO XIMENIANO Piazza S. Lorenzo, 6 www.ximeniano-florence.it

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY

 PISA

S. GIOVANNI ALLA VENA Frazione di (Pi)

Ximenes’ Floodgates

 CASTIGLIONE leonardo ximenes DELLA PESCAIA (GR) (trapani, 1716 – Florence, 1786) * FABBRICA DI CATERATTE DETTA CASA ROSSA Born in Trapani to a family of Spanish origin, this great scientist entered the www.castiglionepescaia.it/casa-rossa- ximenes Order of the Jesuits at a very early age and from 1736 lived in Florence. Child prodigy in the sciences, as geographer he was appointed by the Grand Duke Photo on adjacent page. Francesco Stefano di Lorena to redraft a cartography of Tuscany. He escaped the 1767 purge of the Order of the Jesuits thanks to his genius. He continued his work in various fields leaving important traces of his studies. He focused on astrology perfecting the use of a meridian in the Duomo of Florence and making observations for approximately thirty years. The most astounding re- sults came from hydraulic engineering with his studies of the movement of flows, which culminated in manuals of hydrometrics and, above all in practi- cal applications such as the realisation of an emissary between Lake and the river , land reclaim works in , with the construction of a floodgate plant, fundamental for land observation.

32 discovery anna maria luisa de’ medici

 FLORENCE CAPPELLE MEDICEE GALLERIA PALATINA GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini Palazzo Pitti Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 www.beniculturali.it Piazza Pitti, 1 www.uffizi.it www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY **Burial of Anna Maria Luisa de’ * Portrait of Anna Maria Luisa dei Medici, in the crypt. * Madonna con Bambino Carlo Dolci, anna maria luisa de’ medici Medici, Antonio Franchi, oil on canvas, *Bronze statue crafted by Alfonso with sumptuous frame of ebony, gold (Florence, 1667 – 1743) 1687, West Loggiato, entrance hall, Boninsegni, in the crypt. plated bronze and hard stones, Alcove ground floor. Located on the outside of the Sagres- of the Royal apartments, previously **Portrait of the Palatine Elector tia Nuova, towards via dell’Ariento, is sent to Düsseldorf as a gift to Anna “Her Serene Electress cedes […] to His Royal Highness […] all furniture, be- Johann Wilhelm von der Pfalz the*Marble Statue representing Maria Luisa who brought it back to Florence in 1717. longings and rarities […] such as Galleries, Paintings, Statues, Libraries, with consort Anna Maria Luisa de’ The Palatine Electress sculpted by Jewels and other precious objects […] on the express condition that, of that Medici, Jan Frans Van Douven, oil on Raffaello Salimbeni in 1970. *Series of portraits of the Pala- canvas, 1708, deposits (formerly the tine Electors Jan Frans Van Douven, which is Ornament of the State, for public use and to attract the curiosity of (such as the Portrait of Anna Maria ). TESORO DEI GRANDUCHI foreign visitors, nothing will be transported and taken out of the Capital and Luisa de’ Medici as she dances). of the State of the Grand Duchy”, such is the wording of the third article of Palazzo Pitti * BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO Piazza Pitti, 1 Series of miniatures with the so-called family Pact, an agreement signed in 1737 between Anna Maria Piazza San Lorenzo, 9 www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti Mythological objects, Richard Van Luisa, the last of the Medicis, and the Habsburg-Lorraines who became the www.operamedicealaurenziana.org Orley, such as the sacrifice of Venus, new sovereigns of Tuscany. It is thanks to her foresightedness that the ar- **Jewellery with precious stones, Corridoio delle Colonne. tistic patrimony conserved in the palaces and churches of Florence and the * Gloria dei Santi Fiorentini ivory and “baroque” pearls (such Noli me tangere Grand Duchy, accumulated over centuries of patronage was not lost to the Vincenzo Meucci, fresco of the dome, as the Cradle with child in gold and Michael Posner, copy by Federico 1742, commissioned by Anna Maria pearls, Dutch ca. 1695 of which Anna Barocci. world. She married Elector Palatine Johann Wilhelm II in 1691 and was forced Luisa (see photo on page 35). Maria Luisa was so fond, hall XV. to leave her beloved city of birth for Düsseldorf. There were no heirs and in Bell tower, designed by architect Cameo with bust of Anna Maria MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO 1717, following the death of her husband, she returned to Florence where, in Ferdinando Ruggeri, commissioned Luisa de' Medici Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 9b matters of state she supported and worked alongside her inept brother Gian by Palatine Electress and completed German, onyx. Gastone, who was surrounded by dissolute figures and bad advisors. It was in 1740, with inscription dedicated *Workshops of the Grand Duchy The Glyptic collection was increased then, with her family lineage destined to disappear, that the Palatine Elec- to her. In the first cloister, a plaque on drawings by Giovan Battista and made public by the Palatine Electress. tress stipulated the family Pact, appointing Francis of Lorraine universal commemorates the improvements to Foggini, Collection of the Palatine the Basilica carried out in 1713 for Anna heir and, at the same time, avoiding for Florence the artistic plunder that Elector’s Cabinet, ebony, gold plated Maria Luisa de’ Medici. bronze, mother of pearl, hard stones, FONDAZIONE CR FLORENCE

had happened in other Italian cities. She also continued the family tradition 1709, sent to Düsseldorf as a gift from Via Bufalini, 6 for artistic patronage (her passion was jewellery and silver furnishings), Cosimo III, brought back to Florence www.fondazionecrflorence.it overseeing the restoration and decoration of the Basilica of San Lorenzo - in 1717. the Medici church par excellence and family mausoleum – it was here that she Portrait of Anna Maria Luisa de’ was finally laid to rest on February 18, 1743. Medici in mourning dress, un- known artist, oil on canvas, post 1717. 34 discovery discovery anna maria luisa napoleone bonaparte de’ medici

ARCHIVIO DI STATO  PISA Viale della Giovine Italia, 6 www.archiviodistato.florence.it MUSEO DI SAN MATTEO

Piazza San Matteo in Soarta, 1 * “Copy of the Italian translation www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it of the original in Franzese” reedited in 1737, of the family Pact * Portait of The Palatine Electress that was signed in (where the in mourning dress original is to this day, Haus Hof und Jan Frans Van Douven, 1717. Staatarchiv, Fondo Lorena).

VILLA LA QUIETE Via di Boldrone, 2 http://www.villalaquiete.unifi.it

Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici stayed here from 1724 and commissioned renovation of the * giardino all’italiana. She also had her apartment overlooking the garden decorated by Benedetto Fortini with Views of the , 1731.

(FI)

MUSEO DEL TESORO DI SANTA MARIA DELL’IMPRUNETA Piazza Buondelmonti, 28

Calice di Augusta Franz Ignaz Stadler’s studio, gift from the Palatine Electress who was devoted to the Virgin of Impruneta.

36 discovery sant’antonino

 FLORENCE

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO La Provvidenza domenicana ORATORIO DEI BUONOMINI DI Piazza San Marco (or Mensa di san Domenico): SAN MARTINO * Frescoes with the removal Sant’Antonino crowning the scene, Piazza S. Martino IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY and recognition of the body of Giovanni Antonio Sogliani, 1536, Refet- www.buonominidisanmartino.it torio nuovo. Sant’Antonino, Passignano, 1589; ** Terracotta bust Giambologna and collaborators. See Procession Standard with Sant’Antonino in adoration of the at the altar depicting Sant’Antonino sant’antonino photo on page 39. attributed to Verrocchio. Crucifix, Francesco Botticini (attr.), (Florence, 1389 – 1459) Bas relief in bronze with episodes of the life of Sant'Antonino, second half XV century, Sala dello Stendardo. CHIOSTRO DELLO SCALZO He was a theologian, Catholic bishop and literatus. He was born into an old 1581-1587, Cappella Salviati or Via Cavour, 69 Sant’Antonino (left wing of the ** Fresco with Christ in Limbo and wealthy Florentine family; his father was a notary. At the age of approxi- Beato Angelico and assistant (Benozzo www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it mately fifteen, he met the Dominican friar, Giovanni Dominici, promoter of transept). * Sepulchre of Sant’Antonino Gozzoli?), 1440-1443, Cell 31, thought Bust depicting Sant’Antonino a reformation at the heart of the Domincan Order. Antonio Pierozzi, known to be that inhabited by Antonino Giambologna, bronze. Florentine sculptor, polychrome, XVI as Antonino because of his minute frame, entered the Dominican Order in Pierozzi. Parato di Sant'Antonino based on a century. Santa Maria Novella and in 1414 went to complete twelve months of novitiate design by Alessandro Allori, Sagrestia.

in Cortona. He travelled a great deal, and was sometimes given great respon- CONVENTO DI SAN MARCO GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI sibilities. He was in , Foligno, Napoli and Rome. Once he had returned Via Cavour, 56 MUSEO DI SAN MARCO Piazzale degli Uffizi to Florence, he was appointed Prior of the Basilica di San Marco from 1439 to Piazza San Marco, 3 * Discesa dalla croce e Morte www.uffizi.it 1444, during the period that was supervising the restructuring www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it di Abele con Santi tra cui Portrait of Sant’Antonino works and Beato Angelico was frescoing the interiors. He became archbish- ** Lunettes frescoed with Sant’Antonino, , Cristofano dell’Altissimo, end XVI op of Florence in 1446; he concentrated on reorganising the archdiocese and the stories of the life of 1936-40, Sala Capitolare. century, the Gioviana series.

promised reformation of the Florentine charitable institutions: in 1442 he Sant’Antonino,early XVII century, founded the Compagnia dei Buonomini of San Martino, to assist the rich and cloister named after Sant’Antonino, * TORRE DEI PIEROZZI PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI noble who had fallen into disgrace. When the members of the Compagnia terminate by Michelozzo before 1440. Angolo Via della Canonica e Via dello no longer had any money in the cash box, they would light a candle near the , Beato Studio ** in niche with Crocifissione con santi Angelico, fresco, 1441-1442; Antonino Sant’Antonino oratory door; this is where the saying “reduced to a flicker” comes from, to Antonino’s home added to the circles below the Giovanni Duprè, 1847-1854, the only mean the absence of resources and in urgent need of charity. He was a great Commemorative plaque dated Crucifixion towards the end of the man of the church present. expert on canonical law: his most important writings include the Summa 1731 and terracotta bust depicting XV century in the genealogy of the Theologiae and the Chronicon, conceived as sections of wider treatises that Sant’Antonino attributed to Verrocchio. Dominican Order, Sala del Capitolo. were to express the purpose of the monastic life; in the Summa Moralis al- ** Pala della Signoria or Sacred though he recognised the importance of commerce, he sided against usury. Conversation with Florentine Antonino died, already seriously ill, at Villa dei Vescovi fiorentini in Montu- saints including Sant’Antonino, ghi, near Florence, destroyed in the seige of 1529. He was sanctified in 1523 Fra Bartolomeo, 1510, Sala di Fra 38 and from 1959 he has been co-patron of Florence with San Zanobi. Bartolomeo. discovery sant’antonino

CATTEDRALE DI SANTA MARIA PALAZZO VECCHIO DEL FIORE Piazza della Signoria CHIESA DI SAN PAOLO Piazza San Giovanni www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it/ Via della Rosa, 39 palazzovecchio www.diocesipistoia.it/parrocchia-san- The archishop Sant’Antonino paolo Antonio Bortone, end XIX century, Relief portrait with Sant’Antonino tabernacle in the great pillar, 1st from Florentine modeller, second half XV * Sacra Conversazione con the right, façade. century, painted stucco. Sant’Antonino, Fra Paolino, 1528.

GALLERIA DELLO SPEDALE DEGLI VIA SANT’ANTONINO, 27 INNOCENTI Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 12 Bust depicting Sant’Antonino www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it Florentine modeller, polychrome ter- racotta (?), ca. XVII century. * Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Antonino Pierozzi consecrating BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA the Church of Santa Maria degli NOVELLA Innocenti, dais panel of the Adorazi- Piazza Santa Maria Novella one dei Magi by Domenico Ghirlandaio www.smn.it 1485-1488. Bust depicting Sant’Antonino Bust depicting Sant’Antonino Florentine sculpture, second half Florentine modeller, end XV century, 1500s – early 1600s, polychrome chalk polychrome terracotta, south wall, right transept. and papier mâche.

BASILICA DI SANTO SPIRITO  FIESOLE (FI) Piazza Santo Spirito www.basilicasantospirito.it CHIESA DI SAN DOMENICO Piazza S. Domenico, 4 An artist who was close to Lorenzo di Credi Madonna in trono tra santi Bust depicting Sant’Antonino fra cui con Sant’Antonino, post in the choir of the church, unknown 1523 (canonisation of Sant’Antonino), artist, XIX century. Cappella Cavalcanti, right nave.

discovery San Bernardino da Siena

tion of the Earth, with the inscription manifestavi nomen tuum hominibus. His facial expression was captured by a funeral mask, which has faithfully preserved his features. The artists of Siena were the main contributors to the iconography, including Sano di Pietro (panels in Siena, Tivoli, Viterbo, Mon- talcino, Capistrano, and in Acquapendente), Sassetta and others. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY

 SIENA

* BASILICA DELL’OSSERVANZA Strada dell’Osservanza, 7

San Bernardino da Siena Also known as the Basilica di San (massa marittima, 1380 – l’aquila, 1444) Bernardino da Siena, who lived there. See adjacent photo.

Bernardino degli Albizzeschi was one of the most fervent preachers in Italy in the 15th century. He studied Rhetoric and philosophy, but he soon ac- PINACOTECA NAZIONALE knowledged his vocation for the cloth: in 1401 he entered the Franciscan Via s. Pietro, 29 pinacotecanazionale.siena.it Order and, after leaving all his personal belongings to religious institutions, he took his vows in 1404. From 1405 he began his preachings in the villages Works by Sano di Pietro and Sassetta. around Siena; fame arrived in 1417 when he went to Lombardia and was suc- cessful in stirring mystical religious fervour within the people. He had a sin- MUSEO DELL’OPERA DEL DUOMO gular ritual for the name of Jesus and recommended worship for him with DI SIENA

the initials IHS, which his followers painted or sculpted everywhere. From Sano di Pietro, two panels with the 1405, in accordance with the new regulations, he had established the con- sermon in and the vent of Capriola, near Siena; between 1417 and 1438, on pilgrimage around sermon in front of the Church of San Italy, he reformed others of them and founded new ones. Six years after his Francesco. See adjacent photo.

death in 1444 in L’Aquila, he was canonised in 1450 at Pentecost by Pope Nic- colò V. San Bernardino left us four Lenten sermons written in and other  MASSA MARITTIMA (GR) works. It was Benedetto di Maestro Bartolomeo who collected the Saint’s 45 sermons given at piazza del Campo in Siena, between August and Septem- CASA NATIA Corso della Libertà ber 1427, which are proof of his eloquence. Other sermons in the Vernacular remain unpublished in Florence (), in Siena (Biblioteca Comunale) and in Pavia (Biblioteca Universitaria). The Saint is represented as CHIESA DI S. AGOSTINO Piazza Socci a slim figure wearing a Franciscan habit; he is featured carrying a table with the Name of Jesus on it, and is often posed against a schematic representa- Remains of the Saint. 42 discovery Santa Caterina da Siena

 SIENA  MONTEPULCIANO

** CASA NATALE DI SANTA CHIESA DI SANT’AGNESE SEGNI CATERINA Piazza di Sant’Agnese Fontebranda Dominican convent visited by the Saint IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Contrada dell’Oca Costa Sant’Antonio of Siena to venerate the body of the Santa Poliziana. A true sanctuary with a wealth of objects connected to the memory of the Saint and works of art.  FLORENCE Santa Caterina da Siena (Siena, 1347 – rome, 1380) ** BASILICA DI SAN DOMENICO BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA Piazza San Domenico NOVELLA “Love cannot be gained except with love and from love” (Letter 113). Caterina Piazza Santa Maria Novella Benincasa was born in Siena to Jacopo Benincasa, fabric dyer. She was admit- The Saint’s head is conserved in www.smn.it ted into the Domenican Order of Sisters in 1363. After years of meditation, a chapel, inside a marble altar by Altar dedicated to the saint. she dedicated her life to charitable work and participated in the political Giovanni di Stefano (1469). events of the time, demonstrating an uncommon mettle. All her activities Ecstasy of Saint Caterina and Saint * PALAZZO SODERINI focused on defending the peace between Christians and for the return of Caterina is stunned after receiving the stigmate, Sodoma, 1526 ca. Lungarno Soderini, 21 the Pope from Avignon to Rome. In 1374, she gathered friends and disciples in Florence, hosted at Palazzo Soderini. In summer, in Siena, she assisted vic- Portrait of Saint Caterina The marble plaque that indicates Andrea Vanni, 1375, inside the Cappella tims of the plague, and in autumn of the same year she went to the Domini- the place where the Saint stayed is delle Volte; the face is believed to be a conserved on the ground floor. can in Montepulciano, founded by Saint Agnese. In 1375, at the true portrait of Caterina. Church of Santa Cristina on the Lungarno in Pisa, she received stigmata but later prayed and secured their remaining invisible. In 1376, she travelled to * OSPEDALE DELLA SCALA  PISA Avignon to ask Pope Gregory XI to return to Rome. In 1378, she defended Ur- Piazza del Duomo ban VI in the renewed schism, in Rome, and there she died in 1380, at the age * CHIESA DI SANTA CRISTINA Oratorio di Santa Caterina della Notte, Lungarno Gambacorti, 7 of just 33. She was buried in the Basilica of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. Later, in remembrance of the Saint amongst the Saint’s head was taken to the Church of San Domenico in Siena, whilst her the sick in the hospital and confrater- Here the Saint received her stigmata.

body is still beneath the altar inside the Roman basilica. In 1461 she was can- nity of the same name. onised by Pope Pius II. In 1866, Pius IX proclaimed her co-patron of Rome and in 1939 Pio XII named Saint Caterina and Saint Francis patron saints of Italy. In 1970, Paul VI recognised Saint Caterina the title of Doctor of the Universal Church: she was the first woman to merit such a title, until that moment re- served exclusively for the clergy. 44 discovery Francesco Datini

form a welfare institution, Il Ceppo dei Poveri di Francesco di Marco, to feed and assist the destitute, located in Datini’s house. He left a thousand Florins to the Ospedale di S. Maria Nuova, which were spent in 1419 to buy the land on which the would be built. Datini is buried in the Church of San Francesco in . IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY  PRATO  FLORENCE

** CHIESA DI S. FRANCESCO ** MUSEO DELL’OSPEDALE Francesco Datini Piazza di S. Francesco, 10 DI S. MARIA NUOVA Fondazione di S. Maria Nuova (Prato, 1335 – 1410) Burial of Francesco Datini. Piazza di S. Maria Nuova 1 www.fondazionesantamarianuova.com

“In the name of God and of gain”, was how this merchant from Prato entitled ** MUSEO CASA DI FRANCESCO his ledgers. Francesco di Marco Datini founder of a system of firms whose DATINI ** MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI Via Ser Lapo Mazzei, 43 Piazza della SS. Annunziata, 13 archive, now in the State Archives of Prato, has survived to the present day. www.museocasadatini.it www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it Datini was a part of mercantile and commercial business for almost his whole life. He was the son of a butcher but lost both parents to the plague in 1348 See detail in the photo below. ** PIAZZA DEL COMUNE and was entrusted to a relative, Piero di Giunta dei Rosso. After a period of work in Florence, in 1350 he tried his fortune in Avignon, which at that time Monument to Francesco di Marco was a papal seat: he may have found work as an errand boy for some Floren- Datini, Antonio Garella, 1896.

tine merchant, investing his personal capital in goods and money. He became a partner in some firms up until 1373, when he founded one of his own. Fi- MUSEO CIVICO DI PRATO nancial security enabled Datini to marry Florentine Margherita di Domenico Palazzo Pretorio - Piazza del Comune www.palazzopretorio.prato.it Bandini: it was a successful marriage but the couple had no children. The company in Avignon developed branches in France, Spain, and Lombardia Portait of Francesco di Marco Datini and stopped in 1383. Datini, by then a rich man, returned to Prato and opened Lodovico Buti, 1588, oil on canvas.

three more warehouses in Pisa, Florence and Prato, which he managed per- sonally and he also opened a bank in Merchato Nuovo, in Florence. He dedi- * VILLA DEL PALCO cated time to his estate, which, as well as his elegant home built on the corner Via del Palco 228 www.sanleonardoprato.it of Porcellatico in Prato, also included the Villa del Palco. During their final years, Datini, under the guidance of his friend Lapo Mazzei, notary of the Florentine Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova, embarked upon a process of faith and charity. In 1410, before his death, he made out a will and bequeathed his immense patrimony to the poor: a large part of his inheritance was used to 46 discovery san francesco

 CHIUSI DELLA VERNA (AR)  CAPRESE (AR) 

CASTELLO DEL CONTE ORLANDO EREMO DELLA CASELLA CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO Piazza San Francesco Where he was received On the ridge of Alpe di Catenaia, there is evidence of the Franciscans. Dating to the end of the XIII century.

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY  MONTE DELLA VERNA (AR)  CERBAIOLO (AR)  SIENA ** IL SACRO MONTE * EREMO DI CERBAIOLO * BASILICA DI SAN FRANCESCO The Calvary of Tuscany, with Sasso Spicco. Piazza San Francesco San Francesco Near Pieve Santo Stefano, documented ** SANTUARIO DELLA VERNA as a Franciscan place from 1216. Built in the XIV century, it is full of (assisi, 1182 – 1226) examples of Franciscan art with the It was the first Franciscan convent, Patron Saint of Italy, whom Dante praised in canto XI with Assisi and  Oratorio di San Bernardino to its side. with the Chapel of Stigmata, where AREZZO his land – “Dentro vi nacque l’amoroso drudo / de la fede cristiana, il santo he received his wounds, the rock that atleta / benigno a’ suoi ed a’ nemici crudo” – he was the son of a merchant pulled back to defend him from the CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO ** CHIESA E CONVENTO Piazza San Francesco DELL’OSSERVANZA named Pietro di Bernardone and Madonna Pica. Before his conversion, Fran- devil, the bed on bare rock, the Chiesa Maggiore and Santa Maria degli Angeli, Strada dell’Osservanza cis was a participant in the culture of courts and knights of the time. When ** Crocifisso con san Francesco he was twenty years old he was involved in the conflict of Collestrada, he was the corridor, dormitories, kitchens, Master of San Francesco (attr.), Founded by Saint Bernard following the welcoming areas. See detail in photo. captured and taken prisoner in Perugia; in 1205 he became a knight in the ser- tempera on panel, 1250. order of Saint Francis.

vice of Conte Gentile and left to set off for Puglia when, upon his arrival in ** Cappella Maggiore with the  Legend of the True Cross, frescoes by Spoleto, he heard the voice of God and decided to return to Assisi to spend SANSEPOLCRO (AR)  CETONA a year in prayer and dedicate his time to assisting the lepers, until in 1206 he . * CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO ** San Francesco di fronte renounced his family inheritance. He wore a robe and began to restore * CONVENTO DI SAN FRANCESCO Piazza San Francesco al papa Onorio III Guglielmo de some of the churches in Assisi. In 1208, the first brothers began to follow him Founded in 1212. Marcillat, stained glass. Dating to 1285. and in 1209 he went to Rome to ask Pope Innocence III for approval of an order  PIENZA founded on poverty, chastity, obedience and love. In 1219 he went to Egypt  where he was received by the Sultan and in 1223 the order was approved by  MONTECASALE (AR) CORTONA CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO Pope Honorius III; in the same year, in Greccio, Francis celebrated the birth of * EREMO DI MONTECASALE * CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO Corso il Rossellino, 26 Christ by making the first real nativity, with human beings. In 1224, the hum- It is linked to the conversion of the Via Berrettini ble monk went to La Verna with Friar Leone and on September 17 received his There are traces of frescoes from the brigands and the legend of the “cab- It is the first church founded by Francis- stigmata, “on the rough rock between the and the Arno / he took the XIV century. bage in the vegetable garden”. cans after the death of Saint Francis. final seal from Christ / that his limbs bore for two years”. His composition, Cantico delle Creature, dates to the last two years of his life. He died between  ANGHIARI (AR) * CONVENTO DELLE CELLE October 3 and 4 in the year 1226. He was canonised by Pope Gregory XI in 1228 Case Sparse, 73 and in 1230 his body was placed in the Church of Saint Francis in Assisi. * CASTELLO DI MONTAUTO 48 Here he was a guest of Conte Alberto. Probably visited by Francis.

discovery san francesco

 COLLE DI VAL D’ELSA ** Vita e Miracoli di San Francesco  Jacopo Ligozzi and finished by * CONVENTO DI SAN FRANCESCO , frescoes, in ** BOSCO AI FRATI Via San Francesco, 13 the cloisters. Via San Francesco

Founded in 1229, it is one of the oldest Church and convent founded in the in Tuscany. OSPEDALE DI SAN PAOLO year 1000 with references to the Piazza Santa Maria Novella Franciscan re-foundation in 1212, sug-

gestive **Wooden Crucifix in the  FLORENCE ** Decorazioni robbiane small museum attributed to . glazed terracotta with references to ** BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE Saint Francis and the embrace with Piazza Santa Croce Saint Domenic.  PISTOIA www.santacroceopera.it * CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO ** Vita di San Francesco , * CHIESA E CONVENTO DI SAN SALVATORE AL MONTE Piazza San Francesco frescoes, inside the Cappella Bardi. ** San Francesco e storie della Scalinata del Monte alle Croci * Stories of Saint Francis, frescoes, sua vita tempera on panel, XIII Dating to the XV century. 1343, attributed to a Bolognese master century, on the altar of the Cappella similar to Dalmasio degli Scannabec- Bardi.  chi, in the Cappella Maggiore Storie della Vera Croce FIESOLE * The tree of Life and Crucifixion Agnolo Gaddi, fresco, inside the Cap- in the Chapter hall. * CONVENTO DI SAN FRANCESCO pella Maggiore. Via San Francesco ** Crocifisso, Donatello, wood, inside * MUSEO CIVICO the Cappella Bardi. With the fascinating cells that can be Piazza del Duomo *Albero della Croce e Ultima Cena, visited, the small cloister and the mu- Taddeo Gaddi, in the refectory. seum. San Francesco predica agli *Saint Francis and Stories of

uccelli, Baccio Maria Bacci, fresco, his life and miracles, Coppo di BASILICA DI S. TRINITA 1906 (see the adjacent page). Marcovaldo (attr.), ca. 1250, tempera Piazza di S. Trinita on panel.

 PISA * Cappella Sassetti  Frescoes by Ghirlandaio illustrating PESCIA the Stories of Francis. MUSEO NAZIONALE DI S. MATTEO ** CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO Piazza S. Matteo in Soarta, 1

* CHIESA DI OGNISSANTI Crucifix painted by Giunta Pisano and Saint Francis and stories of his life Piazza Ognissanti other works inspired by Saint Francis. Bonaventura Berlinghieri, painted panel, 1235. This is the oldest work * Gloria di San Francesco dedicated to Saint Francis. Giuseppe Romei, fresco. discovery leone x

He was a sensitive patron and promoted the progression of great works: in Rome relating to San Pietro and the Vatican rooms; in Florence the extension of the San Lorenzo complex. He also entertained rela- tionships with the most important artists of the time, including Michelangelo and Raffaello.

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY  FLORENCE  POGGIO A CAIANO (PO)

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA PALAZZO VECCHIO * VILLA MEDICEA DI POGGIO NOVELLA Piazza della Signoria A CAIANO Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18 museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it/ Piazza de’ Medici, 14 www.smn.it palazzovecchio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it

* Cappella dei papi * Sala di Leone X Salone di Leone X Pontormo e Ridolfo by Ghirlandaio, Vasari, 1555-1562. Pontormo, , Fran- 1515, fresco. See photo below. Papa Leone X benedicente ciabigio Andrea di Cosimo Feltrini,

Bandinelli, ca. 1542, marble. 1513-1520, fresco. leone x (florence, 1475 – rome, 1521) * BASILICA DI S. LORENZO Piazza S. Lorenzo

A figure as great and as controversial as the era in which he lived, Giovanni His architectural projects: tenders for the façade and new sacristy. di Lorenzo de' Medici was predestined, from a very early age, for a career in the Church by his father, Lorenzo il Magnifico, who needed him as a pawn in GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI restoring relationships with the Papal State. At fourteen, he received the Piazzale degli Uffizi bishop’s hat from Innocence VIII, which he would wear three years later, but www.uffizi.it he was already the owner of a number of including Badia a Pas- signano. After the exile of the Medici (1494), he travelled across Europe to ** Portrait of Leo X with Cardinals then settle in Rome, where he began to weave the right network of alliances Giulio de' Medici and Giulio de to reconquer the city of Florence and aim for the highest office in the heart Rossi Raffaello, 1518, oil on panel (see photo of the Church, that of Pope. He was successful on both counts: in 1512 he took on previous page). Florence following the dramatic siege of Prato; the following year he as- cended to the Papal Chair as successor to Julius II. An Italian peninsula shaken by expansionist goals, interference from France and Empire, the division of Via Cavour, 1 Christianity in Germany that began with Martin Luther were just a few of the Medici family residence. events that he had to face with a spirit that swayed between diplomacy and marked nepotism. He was an educated man who was well-versed in every- thing of beauty and pleasure. 52 discovery lorenzo de’ medici, detto "il magnifico"

 FLORENCE  POGGIO A CAIANO (PO)

PALAZZO PITTI BASILICA DI ** VILLA MEDICEA DI POGGIO A Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 - Museo degli Argenti Piazza Santa Trinita CAIANO www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti Piazza dei Medici, 14 * Cappella Sassetti www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it ** Sala di Giovanni da san Giovanni IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Giovanni da san Giovanni, 1635. Frescoes by Ghirlandaio with portrait Giuliano da San Gallo, 1480. * Lorenzo de’ Medici’s funeral of Lorenzo the Magnificent. mask.  VOLTERRA PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI PALAZZO VECCHIO Via Cavour, 1 Piazza della Signoria * FORTEZZA lorenzo de’ medici, detto "il magnifico" museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it/ ** Cappella di Benozzo Gozzoli via Rampa di Castello, 4 palazzovecchio www.lafortezzadivolterra.it/volterra With a portrait of a young Lorenzo. (Florence, 1449 – 1492) * Sala di Lorenzo il Magnifico Rebel city to the Florentine govern- Son of the elder, upon his father’s death in 1469, accepted the Giorgio Vasari, 1556-1558. See the ment, and sacked in 1472 by Lorenzo, “care of the city and the state” whilst officially remaining a private citizen. adjacent photo. who then had the Fortress built (1472- From that moment he was the true gentleman of Florence. City regulations 1474, visiting not permitted as it is now a prison). were partly modified in order to make his power more solid and legal, and he CATTEDRALE DI SANTA MARIA became life-long member of the Consiglio dei Cento. He survived the Pazzi DEL FIORE conspiracy in 1478, began a policy of alliance, agreements and balance, thus Piazza del Duomo www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it reinforcing his authority. During the war of , he allied himself with Ercole d’Este, the Duke of and King Ferdinando of , to stall the * Sagrestia delle messe expansionist objectives of the Pope and the Venetians. Peace was restored, Provided safety to Lorenzo in 1478. in part thanks to Lorenzo, who established “the needle on the scales of Italy”. Around him a circle of poets, artists and philosophers formed whom he sup- CAPPELLE MEDICEE ported and befriended: the Pulci brothers, Poliziano, Verrocchio, Pollaiolo, Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 , , , Pico della Mirandola. www.operamedicealaurenziana.org

In Lorenzo’s view, patronage was an element in the art of governing, as well ** Tomb as a sincere necessity for his soul. He invited the most famous masters of phi- The new sacristy, Michelangelo Buon- lology, philosophy and law to study in Florence and Pisa. Never before had arroti, 1520-1534. Florence been so bustling and active with projects and the arts as it was un- der his administration. As Macchiavelli said, his intense literary activity was VILLA MEDICEA DI CAREGGI deeply connected to his political activity. A skilled and refined poet, Lorenzo Viale Gaetano Pieraccini, 17 contributed to the shift of humanism from Latin to the vernacular, which was * Place of birth and death of the most remarkable historical event of the second half of the 15th century. Lorenzo the Magnificent. 54 discovery napoleone bonaparte

 PISA TEATRO DEI VIGILANTI  FLORENCE Piazza

* SCUOLA NORMALE SUPERIORE The curtain painted by Vincenzo MUSEO STIBBERT Piazza dei Cavalieri, 7 Antonio Revelli with dressed Via Federigo Stibbert, 26 www.sns.it www.museostibbert.it as Apollo is conserved here.

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Founded by Napoleonic decree in 1810, * Petit Costume d’Italie di Napoleone: Carducci, Pascoli, Fermi and Rubbia ** PALAZZINA DEI MULINI this was worn by Napoleon I for the studied there. Piazzale Napoleone - Portoferraio coronation of the King of Italy in Milan in 1805. It is composed of a cloak, waist- napoleone Bonaparte Napoleon’s town mansion, with a lot of coat, trousers and socks (the tail coat (ajaccio, 1769 – Isola di Sant’elena, 1821)  original furniture. (PI) that completed the outfit is missing) in silk and silk velvet embroidered in gold. PALAZZO FORMICHINI He is one of the most well-known, researched historical figures and great ** VILLA SAN MARTINO Napoleon and Maria Luisa of Via IV Novembre, 45 Località San Martino - Portoferraio , ca. 1811, the wedding date, military tactician. The Florentine origin of the family, embraced by Napoleon, the Bonaparts are thought to have been Ghibelline refugees in the 1200s first At that time, this was Palazzo Napoleon’s country residence: miniature, enamel on copper. * Napoleon in the hunting attire of in San Miniato and later in Corsica, but this has recently been questioned, and Buonaparte; today it houses the between 1851 and 1856 Anatolio Demi- Cassa di Risparmio di San Miniato, art the imperial guard with the cordon origins from Lunigiana are now presumed. In 1796, he came to Italy leading the doff had the magnificent gallery built collection. in memory of Napoleon, whose niece, of the legion of honou Miniature, Italian Army, invited by Ferdinand III of Habsberg Lorraine to visit the neutral Matilde, he had married. possibly dating from the period of

Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Napoleon stayed in Florence for just one day, never * ACCADEMIA DEGLI EUTELETI exile.

to return. He visited the Uffizi, the Vassari Corridor and Palazzo Pitti, he went Piazza XX Settembre, 21 SORGENTE DI ACQUA to the Accademia di Belle Arti and admired the anatomical models at the Mu- OLIGOMINERALE * GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA Napoleon’s funeral mask is seum of Physics and Natural History. Following the French invasion in 1799, he Località Poggio, a valle del monte Capanne Palazzo Pitti conserved here. constituted the from 1801 to 1807 and then its annexation Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 Commemorative plaque. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti

to France; in 1809, Napoleon conferred government to his sister Elisa Bacioc- chi, previously princess of Lucca and Piombino. There were many reforms:  ISOLA D'ELBA (LI) * SANTUARIO DELLA MADONNA Il giuramento dei Sassoni a Napo- from infrastructure to reclamation of coastal land, from mining industries DEL MONTE leone, oil on canvas. * CHIESA DELLA MISERICORDIA to agriculture, the registry office was created and road names. Florence wel- On the slopes of monte Giove, Marciana Bust of Napoleon, Manufacture of Salita Napoleone - Porto Ferraio comed artists and enjoyed an international ambience, whilst the Empirical Sévres, 1807, bisque porcelain. Napoleon loved to come to this spot to style dictated fashion, art and manufacturing, increasing the economy. Elisa Commemorative plaques and Museum Portrait of Napoleon, Jean Georget admire the wonderful view which also and all the Napoleonic family members lived in Tuscany and stayed there well of Napoleonic relics, including the flag da François Gerard, 1810 included Corsica. after the fall of Napoleon himself. Indeed, there are a number of residences with three gold bees, crest of Napo- which still today bear the signs of their presence. After his fall, the emperor leon on Elba and the funeral mask. * PALAZZO XIMENES PANCIATICHI * SEDIA DI NAPOLEONE Borgo Pinti, 68 arrived on the Island of Elba on May 4th, 1814 – commemorated with a plaque Località Chiessi - Marciana on the Municipal building at Portoferraio – where he carried out improve- * CASA DROUOT In 1796 this was the French Embassy. ments and received visitors. He abandoned the island on February 26, 1815 in Piazza del Pesce, 6 - Poggio It is said that the emperor would sit on Napoleon was a guest here during his these rocks facing Corsica and observe pursuit of fresh glories, which, however, he did not find. brief stay in Florence. 56 With original furniture and books. the panorama.

discovery pietro leopoldo d’asburgo lorena

 FLORENCE  ABETONE (PT)

* ARCO DI TRIONFO FATTORIA GRANDUCALE ALLE Sulla strada per Piazza della Libertà CASCINE The Pyramids (1777) by L. Ximenes. Piazzale del Re Work by J.N. Jadot (1739), welcomed IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Francesco Stefano of Lorraine (1739). 1785-1787 See photo below.  PISA

OSPEDALE DI BONIFAZIO Via San Gallo * PIAZZA SANTA CATERINA ** PALAZZO PITTI Piazza de’ Pitti pietro leopoldo 1787. Monument to Pietro Leopoldo www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti A. Gherardesca and L. Pampaloni, 1833.

d’asburgo lorena Palace of the Habsburg-Lorraine CIMITERO DI TRESPIANO (vienna, 1747 – 1792) Via Bolognese, 70 GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA Palazzo Pitti - Piazza de’ Pitti This was the first cemetery built In 1737, the death of Gian Gastone, the last Grand Duke de’ Medici, left a he- www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti outside the city in 1784, following the reditary vacuum due to a lack of heirs. As neither his brother Ferdinando nor law of 1783, which prohibited burial in * Portrait of Peter Leopold Grand churches. his sister Anna Maria Luisa had had children, the inheritance passed to the Habsburg Lorraines. So, Francesco Stefano became the new sovereign, but Duke of Tuscany, Innocenzo Spinazzi (or Francesco Carradori), ca. 1771-1774, continued to live in Vienna, leaving a Governing Council in charge of Tuscany. bust in marble. When he died, he was succeeded by the second born Peter Leopold who reigned from 1765 to 1790, the year in which his brother Giuseppe II ascended to the im- * KAFFEEHAUS perial throne of Vienna. Over these years in Tuscany he made many reforms in Giardino di Boboli - Piazza de’ Pitti all fields of interest: he established freedom of commerce, renewal of local ad- www.uffizi.it/giardino-boboli ministration, he formed the Chambers of Community and introduced agricul- Built by order of Peter Leopold. ture reform; he also reclaimed the malaria infested swamp lands, attempted to reform the Church, and on November 30th 1786 he abolished, by law and for * MUSEO DELLA SPECOLA always, the death sentence and torture. In 25 years of good governance and Via Romana, 17 his reform policy, the little Tuscany became one of the most modern states of www.msn.unifi.it Europe and saw the horizons of its innovation stretch to every corner of the Grand Duchy. Called to ascend the imperial throne of Vienna he missed his Flor- Established in 1775 by request of the Grand Duke. ence for the remaining two years of his life.

58 discovery pio ii

 FLORENCE  PIENZA (SI)

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI ** PALAZZO PICCOLOMINI Via Cavour, 3 Piazza Pio II www.palazzo-medici.it www.palazzopiccolominipienza.it

Bernardo Rossellino, second half of

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY ** Cappella dei Magi Benozzo Gozzoli, 1559, fresco: the XV century, finished by Pius III, Pius II is portrayed in the horse ride. with a portrait of Pope Pius II.

** CATTEDRALE DI SANTA  SIENA MARIA ASSUNTA Piazza Pio II ** PALAZZO PICCOLOMINI www.pienza.org/duomo_it.html pio ii Via Banchi di Sotto (Corsignano, poi Pienza, 1405 – ancona, 1464) Designed by Bernardo Rossellino Bernardo Rossellino and P.P. Porrina, (1459-1464). 1469. “When I was Aeneas no one knew me, now I am Pius, everyone calls me un- cle”. Born to a noble but fallen family of Siena, Enea Silvio Piccolomini was a * PIEVE DI CORSIGNANO * LOGGE DEL PAPA (PIO II) Via delle Fonti and Abbreviator at the council of Basel, and word soon spread about Via Logge del Papa his public speaking skills and judicial culture, supporting conciliarism. Sec- XI century, baptismal font of Enea retary to the antipope Felice V, he was invited to visit emperor Federico III, Antonio Federighi architect, 1462. Silvio Piccolomini (see photo below).

who graduated him as poet and invited him to join the imperial chancery. Having re-established relations with Pope Eugene IV, he took holy orders in * PALAZZO DELLE PAPESSE Via di Città 1446: he was elected bishop of Trieste and then of Siena. He collaborated ac- tively with the reconciliation of the Church with the emperor and the German Bernardo Rossellino-Antonio Fed- princes, and, after the fall of Constantinople, he supported the battle of the erighi, 1460-1495.

Christians against the Turks. Two years after becoming Cardinal in 1456, he was elected Pope. He tried to organise a crusade against the Turks in order to OPERA DELLA METROPOLITANA re-conquer Constantinople, but his diplomatic efforts did not succeed in at- Piazza del Duomo, 8 www.operaduomo.siena.it tracting the interest of the Christian princes. Death surprised him in Ancona, where he was waiting in vain for ships and troops for the crusade. He was a * Duomo, north transept man of the world, diplomatic and not immune to nepotist tendencies. He was Giuseppe Mazzuoli,statue of Pius II, also a humanist and writer and used this for his politics. He was a patron: he 1694, marble. had buildings and fortifications in Rome restored and in the city of Saint Pe- ** Libreria Piccolomini ter’s . He adorned his town of birth, which took his name of Pienza, Pinturicchio, frescoes that illustrate the life of the Pope, 1492-1502 with monumental buildings, the work of Bernardo Rossellino, and expanded (see the photo on the previous page). 60 the papal library with illustrated codices. discovery Beato vivaldo Stricchi

 FLORENCE  SAN GIMIGNANO (SI)

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA * CHIESA DI SANT’AGOSTINO DEL CARMINE Piazza Sant’Agostino Piazza del Carmine - Sala Vanni

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY , Chapel and * Ritratto del Santo funeral monument to Bartolo the Master of San Vivaldo (attr.), de- blessed, co-patron of San Gimignano, tached monochrome fresco, end of the 1495. XIV century. Beato vivaldo Stricchi (San Gimignano, 1260 ca. – San vivaldo, 1320)  (FI) ** CONVENTO DI SAN VIVALDO The life of Ubaldo the blessed or Vivaldo Stricchi, commonly called San Viv- It was built on top of a little church aldo, is cloaked in legend. He was born in San Gimignano to a wealthy family which was passed to the Franciscan and in 1285 bought Palazzo della Consuma in Siena, with eleven other friends, Friars Minor (1497). On the Sacro squandering his fortune on parties and overindulgence until he was penni- Monte of San Vivaldo between 1500 less. Following the example of Bartolo the blessed, parish priest of Picchena, and 1515 "Jerusalem in Tuscany" was and fellow townsman, Vivaldo decided to change his life radically by enter- devised by Fra Tommaso from Flor- ing the Third Order of the Franciscan brothers: he lived in a leper colony near ence and Fra Cherubino Conzi, with the objective of pilgrimage without Cellole, later withdrawing into the woods of Camporena, near Montaione, reaching the Holy Land. where he lived as a hermit in prayer and penitence. In that wild place there was merciful to those who went there was a hermitage and a church looked after by Franciscan , but it is said to pray. Of the original 34 chapels, that Vivaldo lived in the hollow of an ancient chestnut tree, where on May today 17 remain (accessible), housing 1st, 1320 he was found dead. His remains were taken to Montaione and ini- suggestive terracottas painted by the tially buried under the high altar inside the church of the castle, then in the Florentine Robbiana school (beginning XVI century). See the adjacent photo. church of the convent built on the first oratory, where it still stands today. The Chestnut soon disappeared because everyone went to take a small piece ** CHIESA DI SAN VIVALDO as a relic. Vivaldo was beatified in 1908 despite the concern of father Faus- Cappella della Natività tino Ghilardi, but he has always been praised, called and prayed to as saint of the people, until giving his name to the convent and the village. Initially, The remains of San Vivaldo are con- the Church neither acknowledged nor contested his sainthood. Indeed, the served here. In the same chapel there is a panel with Madonna and Saints by church made no objections when Vivaldo was painted in a fresco in the Chiesa Raffaellino del Garbo with a portrait of del Carmine in Florence, with his eyes closed as though in ecstasy. the saint. See adjacent photo. 62 64 IMPORTANTGRANDI ARTISTI FIGURES IN IN TOSCANA TUSCANY Lucca, Pisa, and Siena in 1766. Following his first tragedy, first his Following in1766. Siena and Livorno Pisa, Lucca, Florence, Tuscany In visited he to travelling. himself to dedicate abandoned he which was military, undertook Alfieri career family, anoble into first the Born 1749(asti, –florence, 1803) alfieri vittorio tive to “Tuscan purity” ( purity” totive “Tuscan sensi to become artists important the amongst to Florence, first returned and Cleopatra and were focused on hate towards tyranny, such as as hate towards on were such tyranny, focused was atragedian Alfieri poet and Lucca. di Bagni and Terme Giuliano Tuscan San of at the frequenter spas avid an wasHe also of works. his actor and director as success with performed Here he poet. the of death the after even writers, and for artists continued, which in Florence cosmopolitan most of the was one entertainment own their and out, points plaque Trinita, acommemorative nr. as Santa Ponte Corsini the at 2, Lungarno the on to Gianfigliazzi, Florence, to d’Albany Palazzo returned Countess and Alfieri inParis, stop abrief After Foscolo. Ugo and Bonaparte Luigi and lina Pao Byron, Staël, de Lord Madame as figures such well-known for inviting families, Roncioni the and Prini the by organised occasions to social invited was frequently he Pisa In . the loved lover, horse great particularly and a nr. furthermore, was, plaque); (with he Rossi dei via acommemorative 104 time of current Teresa the at Mocenni, was often aguest he Regoli na, where in Sie stayed he 1777 In in 1788. died husband the when down calmed only part in that scandal provoked agreat This throne. for English the aspirant Catholic d’Albany, Count to the married still origin, of woman German a noble Stolberg, (1775), he decided to study the Italian the Literary (1775), to study decided he Language and Vita , IV, 1). Here he met his future companion Louise , IV, Louise 1). companion future his met Here he Della Tirannide Della , and many of his works of works his many , and (1777) and and (1777) Anthony Anthony Del Del - - - the statue of Italian history. art first allegorical personification in principe e delle lettere delle e principe vittorio alfieri discovery Louise Stolberg, ** Portrait of Vittorio Alfieri and www.uffizi.it Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 Alfieri, ** Funeral Monument to Vittorio www.santacroceopera.it Piazza diSanta Croce Architecture. Technological Science of University now the premises of the Library of Residence of the Counts d’Albany, Via Pier Antonio Micheli, 2 *  seat of the contrada of the Liocorno. esco Gori Gandellini, which istoday the Epigraph inLatin on the tomb of Franc- Via Follonica, 82  Fabre, (see 1793 detail to the side). Santa Croce, celebrated in Santa in erected to be monument funeral the to produce time, of the sculptor prestigious most the Canova, GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI DI SANTABASILICA CROCE DELLA STAFFADELLA GIOVANNINO DICHIESA SAN PALAZZO CLEMENTE DI SAN FLORENCE SIENA , 1806-1810; Italia Piangente Italia François-Xavier (1778-1786). He died in Florence in 1803 and the Countess d’Albany commissioned d’Albany commissioned Countess the and (1778-1786). in 1803 in Florence died He isthe Sepolcri by Foscolo. Ugo slept isconserved. printed; inthe villa the bed where he edition of histheatrical works was He stayed here in1783 when the first Via diGeggiano, 1 Località Pianella *  Here he read in 1777, some of hisworks. Via diCittà, 36 ACCADEMIA DEI ROZZI BERARDENGA (SI) VILLA DI GEGGIANOVILLA CASTELNUOVO took arole asactor. little theatre, inwhich the writer also In 1795, Lungarno Mediceo, 16 * commemorative plaque. composed anumber of pieces of prose; a guest of the family Prini here and Between 1785and 1786,the poet was Via Santa Maria, 36 *  PALAZZO RONCIONI PALAZZO VENÉRA PISA Saul was performed he inthe discovery

ing adopted the common language of Florence – vernacular – in many of his works. The Commedia was a great success and vernacular was used by many other writers, so much so that over the centuries, Florentine became the literary language of poets.  FLORENCE VIA DANTE ALIGHIERI MUSEO DI PALAZZO VECCHIO BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE * Plaque with the main monuments of Piazza della Signoria IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Piazza Santa Croce Dante’s time. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it/ www.santacroceopera.it palazzovecchio

PIAZZETTA DI VIA SANTA Dante alighieri Dante’s Cenotaph * Dante’s mask (florence, 1265 – ravenna, 1321) MARGHERITA Stefano Ricci, finalised in 1830. ** Wooden intarsia with effigies * Andrea Orcagna, fragment of Dante Francione and Giuliano da Writer, poet and politician, he is considered to be the father of the Italian Bust of Dante of fresco, ca. 1345, refectory. Augusto Rivalta, bronze. Maiano, 1480, Sala dei Gigli. language. Dante, short for Durante, was born in the heart of Florence, just a few paces away from the Corso. Member of the gentry, he studied with the ** PIAZZA SANTA CROCE *CAPPELLA DEL PODESTÀ * BASILICA E MUSEO DI SANTA writer , in a ‘courtly’ environment, striking friendships with Museo del , MARIA NOVELLA a number of poets of the Dolce Stil Novo school. He fell in love with Beatrice Via del Proconsolo, 4 Piazza Santa Maria Novella - www.smn.it Enrico Pazzi, 1864-1865 Portinari when he was nine, but was promised to Gemma Donati when he was www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it twelve: in fact, Beatrice, who would become the protagonist in Paradiso, was (see photo on page 67). *Cappella Strozzi di Mantova Representation of the kingdoms of of a wealthy but middle class family, in contrast to Gemma who belonged to a Portrait of the poet ** BATTISTERO DI SAN GIOVANNI Giotto and studio, frescoes. heaven according the plan in the Com- secondary branch of the noble Donati family. From this marriage, Jacopo, Pie- Piazza San Giovanni media: to the right is Purgatory (at tro, Antonia and perhaps a fourth child, Giovanni were born. From 1295, Dante the top) and Hell (at the bottom), to * SASSO DI DANTE Dante was baptised here as he recalls the left is Paradise. On the wall in the actively entered political city life. At the age of thirty-six he was elected as Piazza delle Pallottole in the Commedia (Inf., XIX, 16-18). background is the Universal Judge- one of the priors of the Signoria, the highest office of the city. In 1302, on a ment: to the top left is the Portrait of diplomatic mission to Rome, however, he was found guilty of contempt and GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI * MUSEO CASA DI DANTE Dante, Nardo di Cione, 1350-1357. fined 5000 florins, sentenced to death at the stake and the destruction of his Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 - www.uffizi.it houses amidst false accusations including barratry, extortion and fraud. The Via Santa Margherita, 1 www.museocasadidante.it Portrait of Dante, Andrea del Cast- * Via Veritas, Ritratto di Dante poet did not return to his home city and began his bitter pilgrimage: first to Andrea di Bonaiuto, 1365-1367, fresco, Verona, to the court of the Scaligeri, then on to Treviso, Padova, Bologna, in Rebuilt and organised in 1911 on the agno, from the Uomini Illustri series, ca. 1450, San Pier Scheraggio. Cappellone degli Spagnoli. Lunigiana, France as a guest of the Counts in Casentino. He died of ma- spot of Alighieri’s old houses. See photo on adjacent page. Portrait of Dante, Cristofano laria in 1321 near Ravenna, where he is buried, as he was returning from a dip- dell’Altissimo, late XVI century. PALAZZO DELL’ARTE lomatic mission on behalf of Guido Novello da Polenta, lord of the city. Stroll- Portrait of Dante the Gioviana series. DEI GIUDICI E NOTAI ** CHIESA DI S. MARGHERITA ing around Dante’s Florence, it is possible to read tercets, inscribed on marble Bronze, 1532-1533, sala 65. Via del Proconsolo, 16r DEI CERCHI plaques, from the Commedia, composed according to experts between 1304 Via Santa Margherita ** Cycle of frescoes with Dante ca. and 1321; in it – as Giotto did in painting – Dante understood and described the PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI 1360, believed to be the oldest portrait Also known as the Church of Dante, realities of his time, creating roots for a new cultural climate, which would * Sculpture depicting Dante on record. some historians believe Beatrice trigger Humanism. Dante is a fundamental figure to Italian history for hav- Emilio Demi, 1842. 66 Portinari is buried here.

discovery dante alighieri

PALAZZO DEI VISACCI he was a guest at the castle during his  POPPI (AR) Borgo degli Albizi, 18 exile. The frescoes in the central hall,

by Gaetano Bianchi (1882), represent ** CASTELLO DEI CONTI GUIDI Herma portraying Dante the old friendship between Dante and Piazza della Repubblica, 1 Giovan Battista Caccini, 1604 ca. Malaspina. www.castellodipoppi.it

CATTEDRALE DI SANTA MARIA The Counts hosted Dante Alighieri here DEL FIORE  MULAZZO (MS) in 1310, where it is said that he wrote Piazza San Giovanni canto XXXIII of Inferno; on the ground www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it MUSEO DANTESCO LUNIGIANESE floor is the Museum of the Battle of Via Pompeo Signorini, 2 Campaldino, in which Dante partici- ** Dante e i suoi mondi www.terredilunigiana.com pated as a mounted knight. Domenico di Michelino, 1465, tempera on panel, left nave. See previous page.  * PIANA DI CAMPALDINO MONTEFEGATESI (LU) Strada Regionale Consuma SOCIETÀ DANTESCA ITALIANA Palagio dell’Arte della Lana Monument to Dante Dante’s Column, marks the place Via Arte della Lana, 1 F. Petroni, bust, 1908; Dante stayed where he participated in the Battle of www.dantesca.org here during his exile; legend has it that Campaldino in 1289. Inferno was inspired by nearby Orrido di Botri.  (FI)  (AR) ABBAZIA DI SAN GAUDENZIO  PISA * CASTELLO DI PORCIANO Piazza Dante Alighieri www.castellodiporciano.com * TORRE DELLA FAME Mosaics portraying saints and well- (O TORRE DELLA MUDA) Owned by Count Guidi, Dante was a known figures including Dante, in Piazza Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, 4 guest here during he exile and in 1311 remembrance of the convention held he wrote three famous letters: Ai by Dante and the other expelled White Where Count Ugolino, remembered Principi e Popoli d'Italia, Ai Fiorentini, Guelphs and Ghibellines, on June 8th, in the Commedia (Inf., XXXIII), was Ad Arrigo VII. 1302, ca. 1929, apse. imprisoned; today it is a museum dedicated to the event.  PRATOVECCHIO (AR)  FOSDINOVO (MS) CAMPOSANTO * CASTELLO DI ROMENA CASTELLO MALASPINA Piazza del Duomo Pieve di Romena www.opapisa.it/visita/camposanto/ Via Papiriana, 2 www.castellodifosdinovo.it Property of the Counts Guidi, Dante **Inferno, part of the cycle of stayed here during his exile. **Dante’s bedroom where, accord- frescoes by Buonamico Buffalmacco, 1336-1341, inspired by Dante’s Inferno. ing to tradition, the poet slept when IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Pietro aretino ludovico ariosto (arezzo, 1492 – venice, 1556) (reggio emilia, 1474 – ferrara, 1533)

Born to a modest family of the San Pier of princes” and, as a result of his once and for all, where he wrote Piccolo contrada – in via Cesalpino, a questioned morality, his writing The poet, who in Orlando Furioso, start- his Commedies and, in 1527, he plaque marks the spot – Aretino soon was banned after his death and ed in 1504, escorts us with smiling irony married his beloved Alessandra. left Arezzo to move to Perugia where, in editions became rare. He is bur- amidst “women, knights, arms, loves” 1512, he published his first collection of ied in Venice, in the Church of San did not have an easy life. The death of his verse. He then went to Rome, to the court Luca; his tombstone reads: Here father and burdensome family commit-  CASTELNUOVO ments obliged him to become Court of- of Pope Leo X, but because of his Pas- lies Aretin, Tuscan poet, of whom (LU) quinate, satyrical poems which directed all spoke badly, except Christ, ficial and accept the most inconvenient accusations at the Curia, he was forced who apologised saying, ‘I don’t tasks. In 1503, he entered the services ** ROCCA ARIOSTESCA to move to other courts, which included know him’. of Bishop Ippolito d’Este, brother of the Piazza Umberto I

that of Bishop Giulio de’ Medici in Flor- Duke of Ferrara, Alfonso, for whom he ence. With the election of Clement VII  AREZZO carried out the functions of secretary  FLORENCE he returned to Rome, but once again his and messenger. He stayed in Florence * PALAZZO DEL COMUNE political satire got him into trouble: the several times, such as on June 24th 1513 ** PALAZZO BUONDELMONTI Piazza della Libertà Knight Giberti tried to have him stabbed when, during the feast of San Giovanni, Piazza S. Trinita, 2 www.comunearezzo.it Ariosto met Alessandra Benucci, his fu- by a servant, in 1525, luckily without kill- Commemorative plaque. Portrait of Sebastiano del Piombo. ture companion. In 1517 Ariosto refused ing him. First, Aretino hid with Giovanni delle Bande Nere in Emilia and then, in to follow Ippolito d’Este to Budapest: he 1527, in Venice with the printer Francesco  FLORENCE was sacked, but he entered the services Marcolini of Forlì; here he conducted of Duke Alfonso. From 1521 to 1525 he ** GALLERIA PALATINA a comfortable life, becoming famous served as governor of Castelnuovo Gar- Palazzo Pitti - Piazza de’ Pitti fagnana. Here he revealed rare admin- across Italy for his literary antipedantism www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti and for never having adhered to Human- istration talents and wrote some of his ism. He had so many political enemies, Portrait of Aretino, Satires. In 1525, he returned to Ferrara 70 Tiziano 1545, see photo above. 71 that Ariosto defined him “the scourge discovery giovanni boccaccio

important books for the whole of western narrative. His final years, characterised by economic dif- ficulty, were for Boccaccio ones of meditation: his rediscovery of the classics always corresponded with his fervent interest in Dante, to whom Boccaccio dedicated Trattatello in laude (1365, but the first edition dates to some years earlier) and a series of public speeches of Dante’s Commedia in Florence. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY  FLORENCE

** CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA * VILLA DI POGGIO GHERARDO ** CHIESA DI SS. MICHELE E JACOPO NOVELLA Via di Poggio Gherardo Piazza SS. Jacopo e Filippo Giovanni Boccaccio Piazza Santa Maria Novella Believed to be the background location Here lie the remains of Giovanni Boc- ( or Florence, 1313 – Certaldo, 1375) Cappella di Filippo Strozzi to . caccio. On the wall there is a marble "In the venerable church of Santa bust of the writer and an epitaph by Maria Novella, one Tuesday morning, Giovan Francesco Rustici (1503). Fruit of an illegitimate relationshing involving merchant Boccaccino di Chel- as hardly anyone else was present, […]  CERTALDO (FI) lino, he was brought up by his father in Florence. In 1327 he left for Naples, to seven young ladies were found”. In his learn the mercantile or banking professions, though here he was lost in en- Decameron, Boccaccio often referred * PALAZZO PRETORIO  SETTIGNANO (FI) tertainment at refined environments of the Angevine Court and he started to the “illustrious city of Florence”. Piazzetta del Vicariato * VILLA BOCCACCIO to become interested in the Latin classics and masterpieces in Vernacular, Formerly the castel of the Conti Alber- Via di Corbignano above all Dante. He composed various poems, including Caccia di Diana and * CAPPELLONE DEGLI SPAGNOLI ti, it was the home of the Florentine Chiostro Verde di Santa Maria Novella Vicariate in Val d’Elsa. Adjacent to it is Owned by the father of the writer, Filostrato; a common characteristic of these works is the sentiment of love, often autobiographical. In fact, behind the name Fiammetta, his muse, he the Church of San Tommaso, perhaps who spent his youth here. Trionfo della Chiesa Militante linked to the novella by Fra Cipolla. masks Maria d’Aquino, presumed daughter of King Robert of Anjou. In 1340, Andrea Bonaiuti, fresco, depicted here See photo on the adjacent page. as a result of economical problems, Boccaccio returned to Florence and con- is the presumed portrait of Boccaccio  SIENA centrated on his own literary production: he wrote the Comedy of the Flor- and his muse, Fiammetta. ** CASA MUSEO entine Nymphs, an allegorical-didactic poem, Amorosa visione e l’Elegia di Via Boccaccio ARCHIVIO DI STATO Madonna Fiammetta, in which the female protagonist, stepping away from * LOGGIATO DEGLI UFFIZI Banchi di Sotto, 52 Rebuilt in 1947 with a well-stocked literary traditions of the time, tells of her sufferings in love, occupyiing a Statue of the writer, in marble Boccaccio’s will is conserved here. library. It is home to the National Cen- role that was decidedly active and original for the time. The Ninfale Fiesolano Edoardo Fantacchiotti, 1837-1843. tre of Studies on Boccaccio. A fresco

also dates from this period, a poem in octaves on the love of Africo and Men- by Pietro Benvenuti (1826) portrays sola, with which Boccaccio sought to celebrate, through myth, a Florence of * GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI the writer, as the owner at the time, antique times. After the plague of 1348 he began his masterpiece, the De- Piazzale degli Uffizi Marchess Carlotta Lenzoni de’ Medici, cameron, which would conclude in 1351: the work, a collection of a hundred www.uffizi.it wanted him.

novels narrated by three young men and seven maids in ten days, is not only Andrea Del Castagno, Portrait of Boc- the most famous of the florentine writer’s works, but it is a real summary of caccio from Villa Carducci in Legnaia. the whole municipal and mercantile world of that time and one of the most See the page adjacent. 72 discovery Dino Campana

(FI)  (FI)  DA MARRADI A LA VERNA

CASA NATALE * VILLA DI CASTELPULCI A pilgrimage made in 1910, on foot and Via Celestino Bianchi. by bicycle, crossing the appennine Formerly a psychiatric institution. See passes and the villages of Eremo, San Destroyed in WWII. photo below. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Benedetto, Muraglione, San Godenzo, Falterona, Stia, Bibbiena and La Verna, * CASA CAMPANA ** ABBAZIA DEI SANTI SALVATORE later described lyrically: Via Pescetti. E LORENZO A SETTIMO Badia a Settimo - via S. Lorenzo a Settimo, 15 Castagno d’Andrea (Fi) «Little stone houses scattered across * CENTRO STUDI “ENRICO Burial place. the slopes». Dino Campana CONSOLINI” (marradi, 1885 – scandicci, 1932) Via Castelnaudary, 5 «a green black and silver Falterona […] www.dinocampana.it  (FI) swelling like a huge stone horse». This Poet, with a gift for storytelling, and an extraordinary visionary, was * CASETTA DI TIARA Stia (Ar) born in Alto Mugello. He always remained on the edges of official literature,  FLORENCE «white and elegant amidst the green, melodious with calm manor houses […] which was consumed in elegant Florentine cafés, and Giovanni Papini’s mis- Commemorated with a plaque, it was here that he met in ladies on their balconies, leaning their placement of the original manuscript of Campana’s ‘first work’ was paradig- LE GIUBBE ROSSE Piazza della Repubblica, 13/14 1916, “A woman in white with a large pure profiles languidly in the evening: matic; luckily it was found again decades later in Ardengo Soffici’s attic. A hat”, admirer of his Canti Orfici. the hour of the day of clemency, rest dramatic event which forced him to rewrite the whole canto from memory, Literary Café. and oblivion». and which became known as the Canti Orfici, and one which shook his already fragile nervous disposition leading progressively to madness. His verses, however, were anything but provincial and he was approached by great con- Via san Salvi, 12

temporary European intellectuals. A restless spirit, he roamed in pursuit of Formerly a psychiatric institution. the peace that he never found, and emotions to capture and immortalise in poetry. A journey that began in Tuscany, in Marradi connects to the many  places which fed his outlook and cultural influences, reaching, in his need LASTRA A (FI) to escape his “dark evil”, , Bologna, , France and, in 1907, * CASA DI CAMPANA Argentina and South America. The Canti Orfici are a snapshot of his world: Via Arione, 33 from his first getaways to the Appenines as a boy, to literary approaches Commemorated with a plaque, it was with Florentine scholars and snobs, and to his desperate love for poetess here that he met Sibilla Aleramo in Sibilla Aleramo, and finally to his painful experiences in psychiatric hospitals 1916, “A woman in white with a large and in Castelpulci where, after a lengthy commital from 1918, he died. hat”, admirer of his Canti Orfici.

74 76 IMPORTANTGRANDI ARTISTI FIGURES IN IN TOSCANA TUSCANY Gravia, Giambi ed Epodi, Rime Nuove, Odi barbare, Rime e Ritmi e Rime barbare, Odi Nuove, Rime Epodi, ed Giambi Gravia, Giosuè Carducci Giosuè works that had already been published in six collections ( collections in six published been already had that works poet’s of the print into volume a single put Zanichelli 1901, In publishers. of students, including Giovanni Pascoli, and collaboration with the biggest veristy of Bologna. This assured him long-lasting prestige, an abundance was offered professor as tenure Carducci old of attheUni- atwenty-five year government, Sabauda new the Under Greek. and of Latin professor as Forteguerri Liceo the at inPistoia continued then he Barbera, named pulishers the with break ashort after when, of 1957 September until Tedesco Miniato al of San Ginnasio the at of teacher as Rhetoric reer started Carducci’s car 1956. inJuly Normale Scuola the at filology and philosophy in graduate him saw Pisa Castagnaio. Pian at and Celle at Amiata, Mount on family his with holidays summer by punctuated Giovannino, aSan Scolopi the at was educated he where in hispoetryrecalled city was. Florence the heart inhis place the inCastagneto, then inBolgheri to first 1849, from 1838 up him brought that Maremma rugged the was –it then di netto later to For and to moved Serravezza, family his –from Valdicastello doctor was a father his Michele where of Carducci, If birthplace was the (valdicastello –bologna, dipietrasanta, 1835 1907) he was the first Italian to Nobel receive the Prize Italian first was the he 1906, In poet. official its becoming and Italy of ideals aunited to the hering ad interval, republican empassioned an experienced Carducci years, fifty of aperiod Over Maremma. of the memory and myth for Greek the longing his effusions, patriotic remembrance, historical tone, of intimate an lyrics for literature. Juvenilia, Levia Levia Juvenilia, ), alternating ), alternating - - - Giosuè Carducci discovery A bronze bustwith plaque. Via Romana, 135  to1875 1894. later1849, to return asaguest from He lived here from to April June 1848 Via Carducci, 59 *  adjacent page. photo the See on the fiftieth anniversary of hisdeath. there is anobelisk that was erected on at the beginning of viale dei Cipressi, and on theto Vecchia 1848, Aurelia, plaque recalls hisyouth, from 1838 In Piazza Alberto acommemorative  ** Case della memoria. been part of the National Association, Carducci’s house. Since 2016it has Via Valdicastello, 186 **  CASA CARDUCCI CASA CENTRO DI VALORIZZAZIONE PIETRASANTA FLORENCE CASTAGNETO VALDICASTELLO CARDUCCI (LI) CARDUCCI (LU)CARDUCCI BOLGHERI (LI) A poem dedicated to Fiesole. *  Commemorative epigraph. Piazza Santa Croce to 1852. the college of the Scolopi from 1849 A plaque remembers the student at Via de' Martelli, 9 BASILICA DI SANTABASILICA CROCE GALILEO LICEO Via S.Francesco FIESOLE (FI) FIESOLE 1856-1857. A plaque inthe entrance hall, Via Rondoni, 6  His family lived here from to 1858. 1856 www.casedellamemoria.it Via Carducci, 29  S. MINIATO AL TEDESCO (PI) S. MARIA A MONTE (PI) 78 IMPORTANTGRANDI ARTISTI FIGURES IN IN TOSCANA TUSCANY Cassola died of a heart attack in Montecarlo di Lucca in1987. Lucca di inMontecarlo attack of died a heart Cassola 63), (Gruppo intellectuals Italian and writers important most the against the “Disarmament League” movement. Following more writing and battles founded he where Party, Radical the approached he which during period the was That Lucca. di to Montecarlo then and Castagneto di to Marina first tired began to roll in, until his success with with success his to in, until roll began awards The Einaudi. with contract exlusive an in1959, arranged and, panion into into pain his of wife his death poured the by and 1949, was In distraught he tino. ajournalist as working however, to to move in1945, him began Florence politics, he where pushed for Volterra; di passion his Carducci Liceo at post to teaching his returned he Liberation, the after resistance; the joined he 1943 In was arrested. and disobeyed he Manarola, up blowing with was charged he when but, up to sign awriter. as was called he working 1941, In Falchi began Rosa and married and met He Cecina. at Philosophy and inHistory tenure received first his Cassola (rome, 1917–montecarlo dilucca, 1987) Cassola Carlo novels writing on purely concentrate could Cassola that meant security Financial Strega. Premio of the winner novel was elected before the just name, same of the afilm to produce rights the bought Comencini Luigi director film that great was so of book this success The resistance. “Baffo” the Ciandri during Renato partisan with meeting his and of of Giorgi Nada story Il taglio del bosco del taglio Il , going on the win another Strega in 1971 with with Strega in 1971 another win the on , going . He moved back to Cecina where he met his new com new his met he to where Cecina back moved . He at the Nazione del Popolo and the Giornale del Mat Giornale the and del Popolo Nazione the at La ragazza di Bube di ragazza La Paura e tristezza e Paura , inspired by the the by , inspired . He re. He - - - lived for along time at hisbrother’s villa Belriposo inCastello, justbelow the ideas for the landscapes and with biographical details of the author, the places which provided the original tion. Some academics have traced and cross-referenced allusions inthe book of employment, and the ethics of sacrifice as an instrument of social redemp- tina era, with some emphasis on the hard-working and transforming virtues vein of vernacular Tuscanisms. The values expressed are those of the Umber- atic allegory of great fantastical and moral effect. The language isalive with a by farmers artisan and merchants. There is a motherly Fairy; it is an emblem- ful children’s books inthe world. Itisset inthe Tuscan countryside, inhabited from to in the 1881 “Giornale 1883 dei bambini” and is one of the most success- tique. His masterpiece, lampione" and "La scaramuccia", writing political articles andliterary cri - to Florence, where he founded the humouristic and theatrical magazines "Il he participated1848, in the battle of Curtatone and Montanara, and returned abandoned his studies and became interested in the liberal ideas of Mazzini. In used to be, and from where it islikely that he took the name for hispuppet. He the seminary inColle diVal d’Elsa, where the so-called ‘Spring of Pinocchio’ at n.21via Taddea, inthe heart of Florence. Carlo studied from at to 1837 1842 – and who gave birth to her son at her home near the noble family’s mansion, a village near Pescia –she was the cloakroom attendant for the Ginori family Carlo Lorenzini took hispseudonym from hismother, who was born in Collodi, (Florence, –1890) 1826 collodi lorenzini, detto carlo The Adventures of Pinocchio of Adventures The adventures of Pinocchio. We know that Lorenzini , appeared inepisodes

79 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY buried inthe Cappella Lorenzini. In SanMiniato aMonte. The writer is Via delle Porte Santa, 34 ** CIMITERO DELLE PORTE SANTE  Via Pasquinelli, 6 Villa Arcangeli previous page. Giovanni Michelucci. See photo on Venturi, Emilio Greco and the architect including Pietro Consagra, Venturino and Sixties by avariety of artists, in Collodi’s story, made inthe Fifties inspired by the places and characters With scultures and architecture www.pinocchio.it Via San Gennaro, 3 ** PARCO DI PINOCCHIO  the story: the city of Simple Simons. status of capital city to Rome, found aplace in real estate speculation following the shift in post-1870 Florence, impoverished by debt and onnata and the surrounding countryside. Even to saunter inthe gradens of Villa Gerini inCol- the osteria; he often went to , with the locals, the carpenter’s workshop and of Vittorio Emanuele II.Here the writer mingled Villa Petraia which at that time was aresidence CARLO COLLODI FONDAZIONE NAZIONALE FLORENCE COLLODI (PT) Carlo lorenzini detto Collodi discovery eroi, Il Piacere Il eroi, Amongst hismost famous writing is the literary field, but also inthose of politics, the military and the ideological. some essays, demonstrating histalent. He received great honours not only in made contact with this brilliant literary movement of the time and composed lished hisfirst volume of verse at the age of sixteen. After moving to Rome, he symbol of Decadentism. He studied at the collegio Cicognini of Prato and pub- tory will remember thisman asthe Imaginative, the prophet of the Vittoriale, Epic and lyric poet –gardone 1938) 1863 riviera, (pescara, Gabriele D’annunzio was hisinterventionism inWWI and the post war period. silia, at Cortona and at Volterra. The period of hisstay inFrance was intense, as measure” than Florence. He travelled in Tuscany and stayed in Casentino, Ver- the world was able to protect the sleep and wakefulness ofinequal anartist the Florentine hills of Settignano, because he thought that “no other city in Iorio (1904) and (1904) (1889), (1889), Il Notturno Il , novel writer and playwright, memorialist and patriot, his- Il fuoco fuoco Il (1916). In 1898, tired In (1916). 1898, of Rome, he rented avilla on (1900), Laudi del cielo, del mare, della terra e degli degli e terra della mare, del cielo, del Laudi Francesca da da Francesca (1902), La figlia di di figlia La

81 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY See the photo below. relationship with the writer. intense love affair and professional actress Eleonora Duse,who had an Porziuncola, and it was the home of D’Annunzio called thisplace La Via della Capponcina, 75 * some of hismajor masterpieces. beautiful furniture” and composed naissance lord’, with dogs, horses and Here D’Annunzio lived “alife of ‘are- Via della Capponcina, 32 Settignano *  CASA DEI CIPRESSI CASA CAPPONCINA LA VILLA FLORENCE Gabriele D’annunzio discovery collection. here for Eleonora Duse;he found inspiration of the 1900swith hiscompanion summer season here at the beginning D’Annunzio spentBuilt in1886, the Viale Enrico Morin, 16 *  poet composed part of the During asummer break (1901),the *  VILLA LA VERSILIANA LA VILLA CASTELLO DI ROMENA FIUMETTO (LU)FIUMETTO PRATOVECCHIO (AR) La pioggia nel pineto nel pioggia La Alcyone .

Hall XXIV. BC, which D’Annunzio called Bronze dating from the IIIcentury Via Don Giovanni Minzoni, 15 * Here the poet wrote Via dei Marchesi, 11  della Sera della che no che ALBERGO NAZIONALE MUSEOETRUSCO “GUARNACCI” VOLTERRA (PI) (1910). , because of its long shape, Forse che sì forse forse sì che Forse L’Ombra L’Ombra Croce powerful patriotic sentiment inhimwere the tombs of theGreats inSanta the VIII, acting as a background to a vision of love, but what really sparked the epistolary novel of the same name. It was also immortalised in a sonnet, been evoked by the alter ego of the poet, exile Jacopo Ortis, protagonist of lowing year. The city, with its domestic battles and pleasant landscapes had of Campoformio, and then from December until March 26th1800 of the fol- already visited Florence on two other occasions: inApril after 1797, the treaty Quattro Nazioni, on Lungarno Corsini, now Palazzo Gianfigliazzi. In fact, he had throne of the . First, Foscolo stayed at the Hotel delle on AugustAt 17,1812. the time, Elisa Bonaparte, sister of Napoleon was on the With the rank of captain and on authorised sick leave, he arrived in Florence –london, 1778 1827) (zante, ugo Foscolo of of same subject; composed the tragedy Ricciarda; and completed the translation Magiotti and other Florentine noblewomen, and frequented the parties given Chierico. He entertained sentimental relationtionships with Quirina Mocenni wrote wrote here, aplaque remembers hisstay here. Itwas afruitful period for Foscolo: he villa Calamai inBellosguardo, which was later joined to villa dell’Ombrellino: apartment in Borgo Ognissanti. At the beginning of April he 1813, moved to October Foscolo 4th,1812, left the Hotel delle Quattro Nazioni and rented an A Sentimental Journey Sentimental A , who inspired himto write the ode Le Grazie Le , anode dedicated to Canova who was sculpting agroup of the by Laurence Sterne under the pseudonym Didimo Dei Sepolcri Dei , published On in1807.

83 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY pedestal with the three Graces. Antonio Berti erected the statue of the poet wrapped upwarmly, donning anexpression of pride, on a to return, except after hisdeath when in1871, hisashes wer transferred to Santa Croce: here in1939, French painter who had painted the renowned couple. He left Florence on November never 15th,1813, miration, still lingered. His portrait was François Xavier Fabre (see photo on previous page), the same by Countess Albany, where the spirit of Alfieri, dramatist and poet, for whom Foscolo nurtured deep ad- pregne divita». «Te beata, gridai, per le felici aure Piazza Bellosguardo, 11 *  VILLA DELL’OMBRELLINOVILLA FLORENCE ugo foscolougo discovery serbi l’itale glorie, uniche forse». «Ma più beata che inuntempio accolte www.santacroceopera.it Piazza S.Croce DI** BASILICA SANTA CROCE Machiavelli. with Michelangelo, Galilei, Alfieri and de' forti» and here the poet isburied Qui «ilforte animo accendono l’urne the cemetery that honours many famous of the Risorgimental era. era. Risorgimental of the Italians famous many honours that cemetery the to name gave their which Sante of Porte those near Monte, Miniato al of San Basilica inthe was buried and Capponi, Palazzo at Gino Marchese of the guest was a he inFlorence, where died He Risorgimento. of the years the during lar erate (1846), (1846), This lyrical and satyrical satyrical and lyrical This –florence,(monsummano terme,1809 1850) Giuseppe Giusti Grand Duchy, and he wrote Duchy, wrote he and Grand II’s of the Leopold and government of Austria powers the “scherzi” against was head he of the Civic Guard in1848 where Pescia, satyrical his wrote . He to moved family his and He Trinita. S. inPiazza Buondelmonti Palazzo inside was which Vieusseux Gabinetto the frequented and to 1840, from 1836 Pinti, career. of Borgo academic Ximenes inFlorence, Palazzo lived at He bumpy arather after of Pisa, University inlaw the at degree his to attain him allowed owners, land and Provost’s His family, notables Pietro. of wealthy office San the Alto, at Montecatini and Monsummano between infancy his spent and and was an officer of the Civic Guard. His writing was particularly popu was particularly His writing Guard. Civic of officer was an the and Cronaca dei fatti di Toscana di fatti dei Cronaca poet La ghigliottina a vapore a ghigliottina La was born in the small spa town in Val spa small Nievole, di in the was born (1845-1848). He participated in the mod inthe (1845-1848). participated He (1833), (1833), Sant’Ambrogio Sant’Ambrogio - -

85 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY discovery giuseppe giusti

 MONSUMMANO TERME (PT)  FLORENCE ** BASILICA DI ** MUSEO NAZIONALE DI * CAPPELLA DEL BARGELLO Via delle Porte Sante CASA GIUSTI Via del Proconsolo Viale Vincenzo Martini, 18. In the counterfaçade, a sepulchral When this portrait of Dante was di- monument in marble of the poet by IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Many pieces of antique furniture and scovered in 1840, attributed to Giotto, Emidio Santarelli, with the epigraph mementoes are conserved here. Giusti composed the ode Nell’occasio- dictated by for his See photo on preceding page. ne che fu scoperto a Florence il vero friend. Francesco Guicciardini ritratto di Dante fatto da Giotto. (Florence, 1483 – 1540)

** GROTTA GIUSTI Viale della Grotta Giusti Born to a rich Florentine family – a plaque he retired to his villa of Arcetri: Discovered in 1849 on the properties of on Palazzo Guicciardini marks his birth here he concentrated on his most the poet’s father, it became a world- – he attained his degree in 1505 and in significant piece: The unfinished famous spa, visited by and . 1508, against his father’s wishes, he History of Italy (1492-1534). married Maria Salviati. At this time, he wrote the Florentine Stories, related to PIAZZA GIUSTI  the years from 1494 to 1509. In 1511, the FLORENCE A monument to the poet Cesare named him Ambas- Fantacchiotti can be found, 1879 * CHIESA DI SANTA FELICITA sador to Ferdinando il Cattolico di Spag- Piazza Santa Felicita, 3 (see photo on adjacent page). na; with the return of the Medici, in 1512, Tomb of Francesco Guicciardini Guicciardini vowed loyalty to the new governors of the city and, with the bless- ing of Pope Leo X, he acquired important ** PALAZZO VECCHIO Piazza della Signoria duties. Following a number of political museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it/ vicissitudes and the sack of Rome in 1527, palazzovecchio of which he was partly accused, he re- tired to his villa outside Florence, where Hall of Clemente VII, Assedio di Firenze, painting by Stradano. he drafted his Considerazioni intorno ai Discorsi del Machiavelli sopra la prima * PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI Deca di Tito Livio. Only in 1531 was Guic- ciardini able to return to Florence, where Luigi Cartei, Guicciardini, 1847, marble.

he participated in the reformation of the government, but as he no longer enjoyed * VILLA RAVÀ O DELLA BUGIA the support of the Medici or the Pope, Pian de’ Giullari, 71 87 GRANDI ARTISTI IN TOSCANA IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY giacomo leopardi IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY (recanati, 1798 – naples, 1837)

“I also quite like the look of Pisa. That lung’Arno, on a fine day, is an en- chanting sight: I have never seen anything of the sort […] this sun, this sky, are ornaments which you will not have found outside Italy”, wrote Giacomo Leopardi, to his friend Vieusseux, on November 12th, 1827, from Pisa (see photo above). In fact, as soon as he arrived there from Florence, he was fas- cinated by the city. In Florence, which he was not fond of, he participated in the ‘Cabinet’ evenings, where he met Vieusseux, , Gioberti, Manzoni carlo levi and a whole constellation of intellectuals of liberal catholic orientation, who (, 1902 – rome, 1975) fuelled the historical-polical debate of the period. In fact, during his first stay in Florence, from October 21st to November 1st, 1827, he was troubled by an eye condition that obliged him to stay in the dark. His last visits to Flor- «Fascists and Germans searched for me, and I spent most of the day in a ence, between 1830 and 1833, were characterised by a sentimental disap- secret house, with false papers and a false name; I wrote, sitting at a small pointment with Fanny Targioni Tozzetti and by terrible economical difficul- table near the window. Piazza Pitti in front of me», is how, in L’Orologio, ties. It was Florence where the poet consolidated his friendship with Antonio Carlo Levi, remembers when – hidden inside Pensione Ichino, marked by Ranieri and composed the last two Operette Morali, the more lucidly disen- a plaque – he wrote Cristo si è fermato a Eboli, wholly written in Florence. chanted, Dialogo di un venditore di almanacchi e un passeggere and Dialogo Levi often came to Florence: in 1925 for military service, in the Thirties he di Tristano ed un amico. Whereas in Pisa he composed two of his most famous contacted the literary circle, Giubbe Rosse. Political militance was one of lyric poems: A Silvia and Il Risorgimento. the preponderant aspects of Levi’s life: arrested for antifascist activity in 1935, he was sentenced to imprisonment in Grassano, Basilicata, and then to  FLORENCE  PISA Aliano. Favoured in 1936, he moved to France for some years. Upon his return to Italy in 1941, he travelled to Florence, as a guest of Drusilla Tanzi, to see ** VIA VERDI ** PALAZZO SODERINI his companion Paola Olivetti, who had moved to San Domenico di Fiesole, Commemorative plaque. Via della Faggiola, 13 and who encouraged him to settle in Florence. So he rented a small studio

The poet’s residence with apartment in Piazzale Donatello, at numbers 18 and 19. He later went to Tu- * PALAZZO BUONDELMONTI rin; he was arrested on June 26th, 1943 and was transferred to the Florentine Piazza S. Trinita, 2 commemorative plaque. prison, Murate, until July 26th, 1943. In that period, Levi got back in touch Original location of the Vieusseux with members of Giustizia e Libertà, an established movement that founded 88 Cabinet. 89

discovery carlo levi

the Partito d’Azione, and he went underground, sheltering in the house-Pensione Ichino. From here he also directed the administration body of the Liberazione Nazionale Toscano committee, Nazione mario luzi del Popolo. Levi aandoned Florence for Rome in 1945, where he died in 1975. He is buried at Aliano, in (Florence, 1914 – 2005) Basilicata, the place that inspired his novel. His 90th birthday celebrations in Florence, at Palazzo Panciatichi and the Teatro della Compagnia in via Cavour were overflowing with people and IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY banners. In the year 2000, the poet, playwright and art critic, Mario Luzi, appointed senator for life, had dedicated his lyrical poem, Ab Inferis, to the  FLORENCE first "Festa della Toscana". It is written on the walls of the staircase inside * LE GIUBBE ROSSE ** GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI ** PIAZZA PITTI the Consiglio Regionale building, which also houses a portrait of the poet by Piazza della Repubblica Piazzale degli Uffizi “Nano” Campeggi. His parents were from Semproniano, in the Grosseto area, www.uffizi.it At number 14, ex boarding house but Luzi was born – and is buried – in Castello, a hamlet in the north-west Literary café. belonging to Anna Maria Ichino; com- quarter of Florence. He followed his father, a railway worker, to Rapolano Autoritratto memorative plaque of Carlo Levi’s stay where he studied in Siena, and later in Florence, at the classic lyceum Galilei, ** LE MURATE C. Levi, 1937, oil on canvas here. See photo on previous page. graduating in French literature at the University there. He was involved with Piazza delle Murate the editorial team for the “Frontespizio” and the Caffè delle Giubbe Rosse. Former prison, today literary café. He travelled abroad extensively, and published his first collection La barca

in 1935, which was followed by a poetic itinerary that embraced the whole of ** CIMITERO DEGLI INGLESI the 1900s. He taught in San Miniato, Massa and Florence, then moved Piazzale Donatello to Letterature comparate at , then finally to a tenure at the University This was the meeting place for the of Florence for French Literature, from 1972 to 1989. He settled in Pienza with Partito d’Azione for the whole period his studio in via del Bacio 4. In 2005 he died and his funeral was held in Santa of the Resistance. Maria del Fiore Cathedral, in the presence of the President of the Republic,

Ciampi. ** MUSEO NOVECENTO Piazza S. Maria Novella, 10  FLORENCE GABINETTO VIUSSEUX www.museonovecento.it Piazza Strozzi ** CAFFÈ “LE GIUBBE ROSSE” Paesaggio ad Alassio, The “Fondo Luzi”. Piazza della Repubblica C. Levi, 1933, oil on canvas Giovane donna  SIENA C. Levi, 1934, oil on canvas. * BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE Piazza Santa Croce www.santacroceopera.it * PIAZZA PROVENZAN SALVANI Home of Luzi as an adolescent. It is In the temple of the Itale Glorie the one of his "places of the soul" with a poet is remembered with a plaque. plaque. 91 92 IMPORTANTGRANDI ARTISTI FIGURES IN IN TOSCANA TUSCANY and inPoppi inCasentino where some of hismissives are still conserved. Florence, the tour can continue to Albergaccio in Sant’Andrea in Percussina, following hisreturn to Florence, Machiavelli met other men of culture. Leaving tinue towards the historic centre, to visit the Giardino degli OrtiOricellari: here, rous intrigue that occurred inthe area of via dell’Amorino. The tour can con- zo Medici in via Larga, now via Cavour, and the story seems to refer to anamo- most famous comedy: the work would appear to have been performed at Palaz- It may alsobe interesting to visit to the spots mentioned in Guicciardini at number which 18, was rebuilt following its destruction inWWII. on the plaques on hishouses inSant’Andrea inPercussina and inFlorence, invia which did not rely on foreign powers. These concepts have been immortalised and foresaw the importance of astable and motivated military organisation, fragmentation of Italy into many small states was the cause of its weakness famous letters inthe history of Italian literature. Machiavelli realised that the in Sant’Andrea inPercussina, where he wrote ern day stands, invia Ghibellina. He retired to hiscountry house and tortured inthe prison on the Isola delle Stinche, located where the mod- Florentine Republic, but in1512, with the return of the Medici, he was arrested satyrical poems and letters. He was elected Secretary of theChancery of the thanks to hismost famous book: Il Principe, 1513 –but he alsowrote comedies, Historian and writer, he isconsidered to be the father of political sciences – (florence, 1469 –1527) niccolò machiavelli Il Principe Il and one of the most Mandragola , his , his balls are set inthe reconstruction of the walls asascornful symbol towards Florence. made by the Florentine attack, fruit of a decision by Machiavelli, can still be seen; the florentine canon Finally to Pisa for avisit to the ancient city defenses: near the Bastione Stampace, the breach that was niccolò machiavelli discovery Innocenzo Spinazzi, 1787. Machiavelli Burial and funerary monument to www.santacroceopera.it Piazza diSanta Croce ** remembered with aplaque. Destroyed by German mines, it is Via Guicciardini, 24 MACHIAVELLI* CASA Machiavelli, marble, 1846. , Statue of Niccolò Portrait of Machiavelli mask. possibly created from hismortuary ** Bustinpolychrome terracotta fi.it/palazzovecchio/ http://museicivicifiorentini.comune. Piazza della Signoria  Tito, see photo adjacent page. see on Tito, LOGGIATO DEGLI UFFIZI PALAZZO VECCHIO BASILICA DI SANTABASILICA CROCE FLORENCE , Santi di , Santi di see photo below. Machiavelli’s country house; www.villamachiavelli.it via Scopeti, 64 Località Sant’Andrea inPercussina ** ALBERGACCIO  Fondo Machiavelli –Serristori. www.vieusseux.it Piazza Strozzi GABINETTO VIESSEUX SAN CASCIANO SAN VAL PESA (FI) DI Breach of the walls of Pisa.. Via Porta aMare, 17 STAMPACE* BASTIONE  Letters. www.castellodipoppi.it Piazza della Repubblica, 1  DEI CONTI GUIDI BIBLIOTECA DEL CASTELLO PISA POPPI (AR) 94 IMPORTANTGRANDI ARTISTI FIGURES IN IN TOSCANA TUSCANY in Paris. From 1957to 1961, Malaparts’s he travelled alot, frequently staying allied troups asa liaison officer. Later Shortly after that he enrolled with the marked his detachment from . written between and which 1941 1943, an ErichKurt Suckert, hisreal name, was His most famous works include society. he In was 1940 called-up to fight. writing articles and mingling with high for me”. Before reaching he thirty was a bad end, whereas things will go better Malaparte because Bonaparte came to quired why he answered, “Ihave chosen changed hisname; to Mussolini who en- march on Rome in1922, and in1925 he fascist movement, he particiapted inthe valour. Asa signed-up member of the earned himabronze medal for military inscription to WWI at the age of sixteen conversion to catholicism. His voluntary philocommunism and finally to uncertain years’ confinement in1933,at Lipari), to then antifascism (which cost himfive several times, first supporting fascism, his ideological inclinations changed a complex and independent character: a plaque marks hisbirthplace –he was in via Magnolfi –at number where 56, (prato, –rome,1957) 1898 curzio malaparte essayist, novellist and poet Kaputt . Born , had expressed in his famous work a hill near Spazzavento, awishhe Prato, and eventually buried on chapel at the City Cemetery of remains were given a space in a in the mid 1930s. es von Siemens, belonged to Malaparte by architect Carl Sattler for Herta Harri- Also known asVilla Apuana, builtin1899 Via  See photo above. ** MAUSOLEO DI CURZIO  Malaparte was often here asayoung man. Piazza del Collegio, 13 *  Toscani Maledetti VILLA SIEMENS VILLA MALAPARTE CICOGNINI SPAZZAVENTO (PO) CONVITTO NAZIONALE STATALE FORTE DEI MARMI (LU) MONTE DI PRATO (1956). fànfole cated hisattentions to literary experiments, such asinthe book and which he had hidden inacell inKyoto during the war. In later years he dedi- Museum of Anthropology the objects he had collected from the Ainupeople of study in Tibet, in the Himalayas and inJapan. He donated to the Florentine daughter Dacia, future writer). After the war, he alternated between periods fascist ideals he was imprisoned with his wife and children (including hiseldest Ainu people. During the war, he taught Italian at Kyoto, but because of his anti- in 1939 he settled in Sapporo, Japan, for his Natural Sciences, Fosco Maraini, in1937 he set off on anexpedition to Tibet and Japanese literature at anumber of different universities. After hisdegree in He was anethnologist andphotographer , (florence, 1912 –2004) fosco maraini tional Japanes garden at the foot of the Florentine . Kyoto, afruitful cultural exchange, exemplified by the realisation of atradi- , and he was the author of the twinning of Florence and Italian. He donated hisoriental book collection and collection of photos to the (1978), where Maraini usesaninvented language, comically similarto writer andteacher of Italian and anthropological research the on Gnòsi delle delle Gnòsi

95 IMPORTANTGRANDI ARTISTI FIGURES IN IN TOSCANA TUSCANY www.vieusseux.it Palazzo Strozzi -Piazza Strozzi * The collection of Ainuobjects. www.msn.unifi.it Via del Proconsolo, 12 Sezione diAntropologia ed Etnologia ** MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE Viale Giuseppe Poggi, 2 Giardino delle Rose (see photo below) *  LETTERARIO G.P.LETTERARIO VIESSEUX GABINETTO SCIENTIFICO GIARDINO GIAPPONESE SHORAI DI FLORENCE FLORENCE fosco maraini discovery buried. cemetery, where he requested to be Maraini’s tomb inthe small mountain  IN GARFAGNANA MOLAZZANA ALPE DI SANT’ANTONIO (LU) was writing was writing Levi 14: Pitti, Ichino’s inPiazza Maria inAnna house lived boarding writers two The Saba. Umberto and Levi Carlo met he 1944 and 1943 between winter the In Fascist of Party. the amember was not he as Vieusseux Gabinetto the of director as position was from his removed Montale 1939 December In gi. in Montereg of Sant’Ilario church the at in 1962, married only in love, though fell Eugenio and Drusilla Tanzi, of poetry: of his wife much Drusilla Mosca the and Marangoni Matteo critic, of art home to the guest, apaying moved, as tor of the Gabinetto Guelfa, and Parte di Vieusseux Palagio inthe , located direc 1929, In was appointed he - house. boarding Colombini inthe settled and Bemporad, publishers, the at asecretary as was employed he collection; Imperiale to Galluzzo. On the plaque, as was his wish, only his name appears. name his only wish, was his as plaque, the On to Galluzzo. Imperiale Poggio at villa the connects that road the Felice of Ema, at along San etery to wife his cem the in next was He buried died. he to where moved Milan, he 1948 In Apuana. Vittoria called then Marmi, dei Forte at artist pictorial and agraphic as work his began poet the again, once in1945, D’Azione and Partito the joined he 1944, In culture. inItalian role important to an play continued toria del Canzoniere del toria ing the cliff», are the opening words of words cliff», the ing opening the are overhang mount the /on men customs of«You the house the know not do (genoa, 1896 – milan, 1981) –milan, (genoa, 1896 eugenio montale arrived in Florence, in 1927, he had already written inFlorence, in1927, written arrived already had he (see above). photo Montale della Repubblica When inPiazza Rosse Giubbe Le to similarly artists many by frequented time was that at which name, same the poet poet the Antico Fattore award in 1931, established in the Osteria of the of the Osteria inthe Fattore established Antico award in1931, the Cristo si è fermato a Eboli a fermato è si Cristo . So, despite this dramatic phase in its history, Florence Florence history, in its phase dramatic this despite . So, , and Saba the essay, the Saba , and La casa dei doganieri dei casa La Ossi di seppia di Ossi Storia e cronis e Storia , which won won , which , his first first , his - - - -

97 IMPORTANTGRANDI ARTISTI FIGURES IN IN TOSCANA TUSCANY 98 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY moved to Rome, where he wrote Santa Maria, see photo above) has twice been adapted for television. He later other such artists asRosai, Marinetti and Papini, are conserved inthe archive. friends. Original documents and postcards, which Palazzeschi exchanged with in Fiesole, home to the Primo Conti Foundation with whom Palazzeschi was his famous futurist evening event was held in1913,coming to Villa Le Coste and Lorenzo Viani. The visit could then continue toawards Teatro Verdi where studio of Giovanni Fattori, where he would meet hisfriends Plinio Nomellini between the two wars; avisit to the Accademia diBelle inFlorence, Arti to the delle Giubbe Rosse, aplace where intellectuals would meet during the period tine itinerary inthe footsteps of Aldo Palazzeschi includes astop at the Caffè the Faculty of Letters and Philosophy at the . AFloren - ied at the cemetery of Settignano. He named asuniversal heir to all hiswealth tinued hisliterary activity. Shortly before hisdeath in1974, he asked to be bur- following hislaurea honoris causa at the University of Padova (1962), he con- magazine, "Lacerba". After writing hismasterpiece, avantguards. He and Marinetti adhered to Futurism and collaborated with the movement, of fiery temperament, was one of the fathers of the historical Pseudonym for Aldo Giurlani, who was apoet andwriter of thecrepuscolari (Florence, –rome,1974) 1885 Palazzeschi aldo famous book, he turned to journalism, collaborating with the "". His most Sorelle Materassi Sorelle of 1934 (set of 1934 in Coverciano and at the church of I Fratelli Cuccoli Fratelli I (1948) and (1948) Il codice di Perelà di codice Il Roma (1953),and , in1911, (san mauro di romagna, 1855 –bologna maurodiromagna, 1855 1912)(san Giovanni Pascoli published printer, with Livorno, he Raffaello Giusti, In poems. some compose and Maria, and Ida sisters his to host was able he where in Massa, lyceum Rossi Pellegrino the at letters of tenure ancient the otained in1882, graduated He inBologna. ters Faculty of inthe Let enrolled he then and Giovannino, inSan Scolopi, the with again studies, his toFlorence terminate in arrived he 1872 In inUrbino. Scolopi the of school the to had abandon he which of because of deaths family aseries and of father his murder the by was marked Pascoli’s mirrored which infancy nest father, to the returned they as killed his and swallows the between analogy the of 1896: Marzocco” summer inthe “Il magazine Florentine in the appeared lated in the lyrical poem poem lyrical lated inthe The The professor of Greek andLatingrammar was nominated he and Castelvecchio, in to ahouse rent decided Maria and he Ida’s after D’Annunzio. 1895, In marriage, lection, which provoked admiration in of Pascoli is encapsu worldof Pascoli poetic Myricae , in 1891, his first col first his , in1891, X Agosto X , which , which - - - www.casedellamemoria.it via Caprona, 6 MEMORIA DELLA ** CASA  poemetti Nuovi nook where he loved to loved withdraw. he where nook ingle the with in Castelvecchio, house the to buy him permitted which inAmsterdam, poetry of Latin prize international the Certamen, at won medals many the by punctuated were years They of Dante. studies his also Castelvecchio duced duced pro he which during years fervid were Carducci’s. been Those had ure of Italian Literature which ten the took he where in 1905 to Bologna returned finally and (1898-1903), Pisa (1903-1904) follow, at lectured he To University. Bolognese the at PASCOLI (LU) CASTELVECCHIO Primi poemetti Primi , Poemi conviviali Poemi , Odi e Inni e Odi , Canti di di Canti , but - - - ,

99 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY 100 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY collected them in Poet (arezzo, –arquà, 1304 1374) Francesco Petrarca for Laura, whom he met and inthe in1327, allegorical poem of S.Maria Assunta. interested in Italian political affairs. He died here and was buried at the church in the Colli Euganei at Arquà, he lived out the final years of thislife, alsobeing Mantova, Milan (honoured by the Visconti), to Padova and to Venice. Finally, and obtained the crown of poet laureats), Florence (where he met Boccaccio), Napoli (sent by Roberto d’Angiò), to , Rome (where he met Cola di Rienzo In he 1337 settled inthe remote village of Valchiusa, then went once again to was welcomed everywhere asone of the most scholarly academics of histime. vanni Colonna at the papal seat of Avignon; he travelled around Europe, and Montpellier and Bologna. He was later taken into the service of Cardinal Gio- at Carpentras inProvence (1312).The poet and hisbrother Gherardo studied in first to Incisa and then on to Pisa, following the death of Emperor Enrico VII, From hishome invia dell’Orto, today aMuseum,Francesco’s family moved from Florence, and Eletta Canigiani, both originally from Incisa inValdarno. as Latin. He was born in Arezzo to ser Petracco, a white Guelph notary, exiled tion, and elevated the Romanic language created by Dante to the same level Throughout hislifetime, spent inItaly and inFrance, he enjoyed great recogni- sidered to be the first of thegreat humanists who promoted the renaissance. his written work inLatin, and indefense of the classic tradition, he was con- and humanist, he wrote hislyrical poems inthe celebrated vernacular and Canzoniere , anintimate diary of histrue and idealised love I Trionfi I . Thanks to francesco petrarca discovery (see photo on previous page). Alessandro Lazzerini, 1928, marble Monument to Francesco Petrarca presso la * birthplace and was rebuilt in1948. XV century on the site of the poet’s e Scienze. The house was builtinthe Accademia Petrarca diLettere, Arti Museum, library and home to the Via dell’Orto, 38 DEL PETRARCA ** CASA  Andrea marble. Leoni, 1843-1845, Statue of Francesco Petrarca * Andrea del Sarto, 1528, Oil painting * Dama col ‘Petrarchino’ (see1450 adjacent photo). from the “Ciclo degli Uomini illustri”, Andrea del Castagno, detached fresco ** Portrait of Francesco Petrarca www.uffizi.it Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6  to 1833. Founded and in1828 builtfrom 1830 Via Guido Monaco, 12 TEATRO PETRARCA GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI PARCO “ILPRATO” LOGGIATO DEGLI UFFIZI AREZZO FLORENCE here. born til 1311),and hisbrother Gherardo was Here the poet spent hischildhood (un- Loc. Castello Piazza Benassei MUSEO ** CASA  INCISA VALDARNOINCISA (FI) 102 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY that of ice». light. Marble has the strength of irradiation, a still splendour, greater than Carrara Baciocchis, and lined with sycamore …did not create any disharmony». tury, baroque, neoclassical insertions […]Even piazza Napoleone, work of the over the centuries indifferent styles with Gothic, fifteenth and sixteenth cen- and which sits inasingle glance […]The fabric of Lucca has been embroidered Lucca the French call rêverie». Pisa petto selvaggio silibera dalle aggiunte umane». da ogni altro mare italiano, e stupendo non appena, scendendo asud, ilsuo as- Livorno olive oil and aromatic herbs». by aveil of ash[…]restaurants still offer panada and vegetables, dressed with Volterra twisted around each other». Siena magic of aprecision optical instrument». of the[…]Florence 1800s isacity of stone. The architecture possesses the equal in Greek cities, or Paris in the years between the revolution and the end tic monument […]Amodel city, paradigm of all public events, it only finds its Florence concise observations are still true today. Writer andjournalist , hismost famous work is 1907–londra, 1974)(vicenza, guido piovene another, with his “nature isarranged for And art”. wandering across Tuscany from one city to Piovene’s view, was the most beautiful region of the whole world, because here he had jotted down during hisposition at RAIfrom 1953to Tuscany, 1956. in tographed our country, inanappendix to that inventory of Italian things that toms, habits, traditions, languages, racial heritage”. This ishow Piovene pho its landscapes but alsointhe quality of its minds; it isablend of tastes, cus- is varied, not complex. Itchanges from one kilometer to the next, not only in «isacity of fantasies and rest: aplace and amoment suited to that which , a city that is «mysterious, in that it is built like a spiral, with streets is«anexemplary city, whose historic design isconserved almost intact, «èviva, popolare, eccessiva; e ha per sfondo unmare collerico, diverso , the mines of the Apuane, «astupendous mountain of absolute white «dominates, monochromatic, because all the roofs look to be covered «lies at the centre of adipinthe hills, which isaltogether- anartis Viaggio in Italia in Viaggio inhand, one soon realises that hisprecise and Viaggio in Italia in Viaggio (1957).“Italy - here he completed completed he here Gonzaga: to to Mantova, travelled Tuscany Cardinal and abandoned he 1479 In war, fear and death and great for future”. the “between past of the pain and for him began period A dramatic conspirators. Pazzi the by 1478 26th, April on de’ (1475), Duomo Medici Giuliano inthe del magnifico ostra assassinated be buried in Domenican robes in the Chiesa di San Marco. San di Chiesa inthe robes inDomenican buried be to him allowed Republic, the dominated who Savonarola, and in1494 Florence in died humanist great The Cardinal. (Borgia) him VI to invain appoint sandro Ales asked Magnifico, Pope of the Piero, son and career areligious embraced Studiorum the Fiorentino at aprofessorship Florence, him offering . Poliziano to his son Piero. In this climate, he composed composed climate, he this In Piero. to son his tutor to private family, his as him welcomed him a few had years employing the the poet Ambrogini – Poliziano from his place of birth, in Latin, inLatin, of place from his birth, –Poliziano Ambrogini Agnolo of time, his writers the mostoriginal the genius amongst Arguable –florence,(montepulciano, 1494) 1454 Poliziano agnolo Iliad . At sixtten he began the translation from Greek to Latin of to from Greek Latin translation the began he humanist. At and sixtten , which earned him protection from Lorenzo il Magnifico who within within who il Magnifico from Lorenzo protection him earned , which Favola di Orfeo di Favola (1480). Later, to return him had Lorenzo Le Stanze Le Mons Politianus Mons cominciate per la gi per cominciate – was a –was a - - 103 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY discovery agnolo poliziano

 **MONTEPULCIANO (SI) ** GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Piazzale degli Uffizi Here is the home of the poet and the www.uffizi.it theatre dedicated to him. In the halls of Botticelli: La Primavera and La Nascita di Venere, inspired by the poetry of Poliziano. vasco Pratolini IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY  FLORENCE (florence, 1913 – rome, 1991) BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA CHIESA DI SAN MARCO NOVELLA Piazza San Marco Novelist, journalist and screenwriter, books and he worked as screen- Piazza Santa Maria Novella Cappella Tornabuoni ** Tomb of Agnolo Poliziano Pratolini was born in the heart of Flor- writer with Visconti, Rossellini, Marble plaque ence, in via dei Magazzini – a plaque Bolognini, and . He was

** Stories by San Giovanni Battista, marks his birthplace and difficult child- buried in Florence. “Annuncio a Zaccaria”  POGGIO A CAIANO (PO) hood – to a working class family. He  FLORENCE Domenico Ghirlandaio fresco, 1488- would find most of his inspiration from 1490. Poliziano’s portrait can be his origins, which forced him into a vari- identifiied in the group of humanists * VILLA MEDICEA * VIA DEL CORNO in the foreground; he is third from the ety of jobs. At twenty-one he fell ill and Luigi Catani, Il Poliziano incorona Cronache di poveri amanti is set here left. See photo on previous page. was admitted to a sanitorium in . and in via Vinegia, piazza San Florence con l'alloro il busto di Omero, He returned to Florence in 1936, found- monochrome fresco, ca. 1809. and in via de’ Neri. See photo above. CHIESA DI SANTA TRINITA ed and directed “Il Bargello” and the Piazza Santa Trinita fortnightly “Campo di Marte” (1938), * QUARTIERE DI SAN FREDIANO Cappella Sassetti mouthpiece for the hermetic move-

ment. With Il tappeto verde, Via de’ These are the places where, once, you ** Stories of San Francesco could feel the atmosphere of the arti- Domenico Ghirlandaio, fresco, Magazzini and Le amiche, published be- san quarters described in Le ragazze di 1480-1485. In the scene of the upper tween 1941 and 1943, he marked the be- San Frediano. register, Approvazione della Regola, ginning of his narrative elegiac activity, there is a portrait of Poliziano (see “la storia di un’anima”. During the war, adjacent photo). VIA GHIBELLINA he worked with the Roman resistenza, whereas after the war he taught at the With the Murate prison, piazza SS. PALAZZO VECCHIO Istituto d’Arte of Naples and from 1950 Annunziata, the new district along the Piazza della Signoria he lived in Rome. Among his master- Mugnone and Rifredi, these are the Sala di Lorenzo il Magnifico places of the narrative in Metello. pieces we remember Il Quartiere (1944), ** Giorgio Vasari and collaborators Cronache di poveri amanti and Cronaca * CIMITERO DELLE PORTE SANTE Lorenzo receives homage from the familiare (1947), Le ragazze di San Fredi- men of letters, fresco. There is a por- San Miniato al Monte ano (1949-1952), Metello (1955), Lo scialo trait of the poet’s unmistakable face. (1960), Allegoria e derisione (1966). Nu- Place of burial.

merous films have been taken from his 105 106 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY the in translating ancient Greek poetrywon , the Antico Fattore prize for Ed èsubito sera. In 1932, he was awarded Solaria, which includes the hermetic poem lyptus e altri versi altri e lyptus terre e Acque “Solaria”. In the same year the collection published three poems in the magazine erary circles, he met Montale and in1930 , he was introduced into lit- to 1930: summoned by hisbrother in law Tuscany, staying inFlorence from 1929 above). The in the small Tuscan town (see in1965 photo bowmen of Sansepolcro, which he wrote his Lyrical poem dedicated to the cross- di amanti», This ishow Quasimodo opens della balestra /elanciano le armicon ansia ale. I ragazzi / tendono con forza la corda colpire uncentro /con una freccia mediev- tamburi vittoriosi, / tentano la sorte di nella piazza della città toscana, /senza «Vestiti dibroccati vivaci ibalestrieri / (modica, 1901-naples, 1968) (modica, Salvatore quasimodo Nobel prize poeta was published by Edizioni di for literature in1959. . The Poet, who excelled had already visited to Odore di euca di Odore - plaque at the entrance to the Museum. Quasimodo’s poetry isinscribed on a www.museocivicosansepolcro.it Via Niccolò Aggiunti, 65 ** MUSEO DI SANSEPOLCRO www.balestrierisansepolcro.it  between and artists intellectuals. Historic location for gatherings Via Lambertesca, 3 ** Literary café. Piazza della Repubblica **  PALIO BALESTRA DELLA TRATTORIA ANTICO FATTORE LE GIUBBE ROSSE SANSEPOLCRO (AR) FLORENCE (siena, 1883 –rome,1920) 1883 (siena, tozzi federigo the poetry of poetry the wrote he 1911 In Palagi. Emma married from this experience that he produced produced he that experience from this at for railway worked He the of Siena. ers writ historic by of anthologies number and city library. His debut work was work His debut library. city the at time to spend began and reading love for agreat developed he studying, inhis behaviour. inconsistencies Despite of bad because in1895 was expelled he where of Provenzano, Arcivescovile gio Colle the at and seminary the at school author. realist to went He primary and was a writer he origins, modest Of Ricordi di un giovane impiegato giovane un di Ricordi Vergine la mous novels: novels: mous fa most his wrote to he Siena, returned he of father his death in1908, the upon Torre”. wife his with to moved Rome He “La magazine the founded he Giuliotti Domenico with inpartnership in 1913, Il podere Il , and following that he edited a a edited he that following , and (1921). year he same the In and in Florence, and it was was it in Florence, and and La zampogna verde zampogna La chiusi occhi gli Con Città del Città . When, When, . , whilst (1919) - - - - here (see the photo above). Federico Tozzi was aregular visitor Via della Sapienza, 5 memorates hisbirth inBanchi diSopra. childhood memories. Aplaque com- These are the areas with family ties and  inSiena. cemetery, erino Lat in the is He buried mously. posthu published were, in part, which materials his all organised Glauco, His son, magazines. and newspapers amongst scattered his mostly unpublished, works, awriter.as Tozzi Federigo left magazines, achieving recognition literary and newspapers with and son, Glauco, collaborating DEGLI INTRONATI BIBLIOTECA COMUNALE ZONALA DELL’ARCO DE’ ROSSI SIENA - - 107 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY 108 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY entitled ence. In 1919he published the collection poems for the magazine “Lacerba” inFlor- and(1916), in1915he published several his return to Italy in1921, he published ing to Paris, where he married. Following wrote in the trenches, in hisfirst collection of poems which he his experience on the Front istranscribed and fought on the Carso inthe Great War; years. In 1914 Ungaretti returned to Italy Severini. His first poems belong to those with such artists asBergson, Apollinaire, went to Paris, where he met and socialised Italian immigrants from Lucca. In 1912he structures. He was born inAlexandria to posing innovative lyrical forms and metric tackled the theme of fraternity by pro- Sentimento del tempo del Sentimento One of Italy’s most prominent of Rome, published the collections rary Italian literature at the University man, he taught ture, returning to As anolder Italy in1942. a teaching post inBrazil for Italian litera- accepted he conditions financial difficult promessa (alexandria, egypt,(alexandria, 1970) –milan, 1888 Giuseppe ungaretti Allegria di naufragi di Allegria (1950)and modern andcontempo- Il taccuino del vecchio del taccuino Il in1933, but due to Il Porto sepolto Porto Il before mov poets La terra terra La , he he , -

the archive. ini and Piero Bigongiari isconserved in His correspondence with Giovanni Pap- Via Giovanni Dupré, 18 Villa Le Coste, ** FONDAZIONE PRIMO CONTI  his poem Nile and the Seine; it ismentioned in poet’s childhood companions with the The River of Lucchesia, one of the  been placed on the Palazzo Ducale. land, acommemorative plaque has wife. In Lucca, hisparent home - was buried inRome next to his 1969. He died inMilan in1970 and first landing on July 20th di Florence, the day after man’s poesia elaluna” at the Università an acclaimed conversation on “la poemheld the remembered that western civilisation. It should be disappointment infalse values of where(1960), he manifested his FIESOLE I fiumi I . (lucca, 1743 –madrid,1805) luigi boccherini of Napoleon, who came to the Embassy in Madrid, and for whom he wrote wrote he for and whom in Madrid, Embassy to the came who of Napoleon, brother Bonaparte, inLuciano patron final his found he Guglielmo, Federico of death the despite however, disease; health, to lung due deteriorated His remarried. he and in1786, composer personal his him appointed who II of Prussia, for Guglielmo Federico correspondence by to work continued He a pension. him III granted Carlo where protector, to Madrid, returned he of wife his death his the after and 1785, In compositions. some sent had he acello lover, of Prussia, Guglielmo Federico to whom Prince with spondence corre epistolary his began and Pedro San de Arenas l’Infante to inexile Las followed he Luigi 1775 In played court. at himself he which violoncello, ond a sec added he four strings, traditional to the in addition which, into tets, quin and quartets music, chamber symphonies, six his composed cherini Boc brilliant. were most his years following The children. six had they and Pelliccia, Clementina Compagnia, of the amember also soprano, Italian an married He of Spain. King of the courst the at italiana, Compagnia the with to work to to Madrid, go invited was He then inParis. successfully formed the the formed furthermore, Boccherini, to 1779. from 1764 Palatina, Musicale pella Cap the at cellist first became he in Lucca and quartets, first his composed he in Rome then of Vienna, court imperial father his the at with concerts was performing he soon very and of thirteen age the at career his began Composer , the first stable quartet on record, and he also per Quartetto also he record, on and Toscano quartet stable first , the and cello and player , his talent became clear at a very early age. He He age. early avery at clear became talent , his ------109 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY discovery luigi boccherini

Stabat Mater. His final years were compromised by numerous family bereavements: the deaths of his three daughters and his second wife. Many places in Lucca are linked to him, such as the house between Via Fillungo and Via Buia, where he was born; the Battistero of Saints Giovanni and Reparata, where he was baptised in 1743, and the Cathedral of San Martino where in 1751 he debuted as a child in the choir. He performed at the Teatro del Giglio and the Palazzo Ducale. His success remains connected to his original and innovative chamber music for strings, which made his name famous across Europe. Sadly, IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY many of his manuscripts were lost, causing problems of attribution and chronology. ferruccio busoni  LUCCA (empoli, 1866 – berlino, 1924)

* BASILICA DI SAN FRANCESCO Piazza San Francesco The great composer received his mu- orchestral works, pieces for the sical education from his parents. He piano, pages for the organ and Boccherini’s remains were brought was a true enfant prodige: he gave choral pieces, including Fantasia here from Spain in 1927. his first piano concert in Vienna at contrappuntistica and Fantasia the age of nine. Open to all modern indiana (1913) and four operas: La * VIA FILLUNGO experiences – in the german tradi- sposa sorteggiata (1912), Arlec- The composer’s birthplace between tion – from Bach to Mozart and Bee- chino (1917), Turandot (1917) and via Fillungo and via Buia, with thoven – he played a key role in the Doktor Faust (1924), which was a commemorative plaque. creation of contemporary musical concluded by his student, Philipp

language, so much so as to be con- Jornach. He is buried in Berlino at * ISTITUTO MUSICALE sidered the pioneer of electronic the Friedenau. His famous motto BOCCHERINI music. He established himself as one sums up his positive relationship Piazza del Suffragio, 6 of the most talented pianists, and with art and life: “Only those who Statue of the musician collocated in performed concerts in Germany, Rus- look ahead have a look of delight”. front of the Institute. sia, Finland and the United States. He

wrote essays of musical critique, and  EMPOLI (FI) dedicated himself wholly to teach- ing; Jean Sibelius was a student of ** CASA MUSEO his. During WWI he retired to Zurich, Piazza della Vittoria, 16 www.csmfbcentrobusoni.org in Switzerland, and for a short pe- riod he directed the Lyceum of Music Centro Studi Busoniani and museum. in Bologna. He composed Lieder and 110 111 112 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY (tivoli [?], 1545 ca. –florence,(tivoli ca. 1618) [?],1545 Giulio Caccini at the church of San Nicola in Pisa, which was annexed to the mansion where where mansion to the was annexed which in Pisa, Nicola of San church the at celebrations inliturgical and parties court at performed family Cacciari the of family: his were members students first his and school asinging founded also had Caccini of music. history inthe opera first the to be is considered it for and of it airs anumber composed also Caccini Peri. by composed sic – de’ Medici Antonio of Don apartment time that – at Pitti Palazzo at Bianca year, Sala same ofin the the 6th celebrations, for again wedding October On is located. Prints and of floor, Designs Chamber the today first where the was on in1889, was demolished which theatre, the 1600; 9th, October on Teatro IV, inthe Enrico de’ Uffizi and Maria tween Medici degli performed that was that Following inFlorence. Tornabuoni inPalazzo was performed which Caccini of collaboration the with in1594 was Dafne, composed considerations their they but goal their achieve not did They style. drammatic its to pristine to restore and theatre Greek cient an of rebuilding objective the with Bardi dei Maria Giovanni of patron, sion scientist’s man the Galilei, the at father. Vincenzo toand meet used They Peri Jacopo Rinuccini, Ottavio as such scientists, and artists of intellectuals, a circle Bardi, dei Camerata to the doors the opened talents His singing 1565. I in of Cosimo services entered the Caccini man, a young As fathers. of the call call we that emotions the and music of up the made magic, the isFlorence where Euridice opera Il rapimento di Cefalo di rapimento Il , began. Giulio Caccini, Caccini, Giulio , began. was performed, whose lyrics were written by Rinuccini and mu and Rinuccini by were written lyrics whose was performed, did invent themelodrama of fruit first . The , composed by Caccini for the wedding be for wedding the Caccini by , composed lyric singer, harpist and and composer , was one , was one - - - - the myth of Orfeo ed Euridice. opera on the previous page and, below, performed here. See the draft for the Giulio Caccini discovery ** The first opera inhistory, www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 Palazzo Pitti *  Annunziata. Santissima the at was buried in1618 inFlorence Easter. died and and musician The Carneval to between live came Dukes Grand the * The Camerata dei Bardi from 1582. Via Tornabuoni, 16 and 1582. The Camerata dei Bardi between 1572 Via de’ Benci, 5 Commemorative plaque. Via G. Capponi, 42 * Tomb of Giulio Caccini http://annunziata.xoom.it/ Piazza Santissima Annunziata PALAZZO CORSI TORNABUONI SALA BIANCA SALA BASILICA SS.BASILICA ANNUNZIATA CASA DI CACCINICASA PALAZZO BARDI FLORENCE Euridice , was 114 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY (naples, 1873 –1921) (naples, 1873 enrico Caruso place at the Teatro Cimarosa of Caserta in 1895 with with in1895 Teatro the at place of Caserta Cimarosa took repertoire grand the into debut true his but theatre, Napoli di Nuovo the at debuted he master. to asinging him 1894 In entrusted siano, who Mis of eye baritone, the caught he resort, abeach at attendant an as ing he he inFlorence, then Strigelli, Palazzo bought he 1903 In acclaim. wide world receive would Caruso tenor’s moment, from that the sealed success; which was performed Fedora first Milano, the di Lirico the at 1898, In children. two had and relationship astormy started tenor the whom with ason, with ried was occupied at the Teatro Goldoni of Livorno with with Teatro of the at Livorno was occupied Goldoni in 1897, he abroad; and whilst in Italy both to sing began He Mascagni. by 1906, he bought Villa Bellosguardo in , now called Villa Caruso. Caruso. Villa called now aSigna, inLastra Bellosguardo Villa bought he 1906, He sang at the Metropolitan, in Metropolitan, the at sang He tor. firstto was He the artist make records amillion. than more sold he and Vic record company the with contract exclusive York an to sign again once year, Pini", "I Villa same the the In Florence. near was inNew he bought he in glory, cloaked in 1904, to Italy York. returned of he New Once ropolitan La famous A manina Puccini, at , obtaining a semi-tone reduction for the asemi-tone reduction Torre at obtaining Puccini, del Lago, crossed in theAtlantic appearances to make 25 aria. Mimì was Ada Giachetti, originally of Sesto Fiorentino, mar Fiorentino, of Sesto originally Giachetti, was Ada Mimì aria. tenor and and , he began as a very young cantor in church. As he was work he As inchurch. cantor young avery as began , he Elisir d'amore Elisir , totalling 607 performances in 17 seasons. In In seasons. in17 performances 607 , totalling , , Tosca La Traviata La , Rigoletto La Bohème La Cavalleria Rusticana Cavalleria at the Met the at , he went to went , he , Pagliacci Gelida Gelida - - - - - ,

enrico Caruso discovery * PALAZZO STRIGELLI  for funeral. his people 80000 with filled del Plebiscito Piazza 1921. 2nd, August on died he where was taken to he Naples of and July, middle fever the his In returned to Sorrento. on tinued con and inNaples, arrived they Gloria, little and Dorothy In1921, with too. stage, on occasionally pain, physical with struggled he season opera of the start the to With Italy. brought he whom Benjamin, Dorothy a young married and films in two performed Caruso in 1918 separation, their After losguardo. inBel home luxurious intheir lived unfaithful; she was being companion his discovered 1907,In Caruso Piazza d’, 42. FLORENCE

www.villagisella.it Largo Enrico Caruso, 1 – GISELLA I PINI * VILLA  SESTOFIORENTINO (FI) below. photo See The Home Museumof Caruso. www.museoenricocaruso.it Via diBellosguardo, 54 BELLOSGUARDO** VILLA  LASTRA A SIGNA LASTRA (FI) - - discovery alfredo Catalani

The composer died, weakened by tuberculosis, and was buried in the cemetery of Sant’Anna outside Porta San Donato, in Lucca. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY  LUCCA

alfredo Catalani * CASA NATALE (lucca, 1854 – milan, 1893) Via Cernaia, 19

Commemorative plaque with relief Musician and composer from Lucca, he studied at the Boccherini Conserva- depicting the face of the composer. tory of Lucca, where he attained a diploma in composition, and performed a Mass for four voices, choir and orchestra which met with success fromboth ** BALUARDO DI SAN PAOLINO critics and the public. He studied at the Conservatory of Paris and that of Opera in bronze by sculptor Francesco Milan, where he moved finally in 1873. It was then that he developed his re- Petroni dedicated to Catalani. lationship with the progressist artistic movement of Scapigliatura, and his study of the manuscripts of Wagner whose influence was notable. Catalani * CIMITERO DI SANT’ANNA received a professorship in composition at the conservatory of the Lombard Outside Porta San Donato capital from 1888 to 1893 following on from Ponchielli. Lucca, however, re- The composer’s burial place. mained as the place to return to for periods of calm. In 1875 Catalani com- posed the eclogue La Falce on the libretto by , the opera Dejanice (1883), the symphonic poem Ero e Leandro (1885), the opera Edmea (1886), followed by Elda (1886-1887), which was reshaped in (1890), and the masterpiece Wally (1891) on the libretto by , performedat in Milan and defined by Verdi as “a German opera”. At the Giglio theatre in Luc- ca (see photo at the top of the page) the operas of Catalani were performed and, in 1892, Wally was successfully performed by , who had always been a great admirer of his. There are many places in Lucca where his concerts were performed – and where they still are to this day – such as the Chiesa dei Servi, the Auditorium Chiesa San Romano, the Chiesa di San Fredi- ano, the restored Chiesa di San Francesco, the Chiesa di San Pietro Somaldi and that of San Giovanni, without forgetting the Duomo, where the famous Mass in E minor for solos, choir and orchestra was performed, or Mottettone, 116 composed for the festival of Santa Croce in the month of September. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY

luigi cherubini (Florence, 1760 – Paris, 1842) Guido Chigi Saracini (Siena, 1880 – 1965) Cherubini can be compared to the pa- he was celebrated as one of the rabola of a star, though Florence – in most important composers of the spite of the invention of opera by the period, primarily by Beethoven Descending from an old Patrician family, Count Chigi Saracini began his Camerata de’ Bardi – was never gene- himself. His Medea and in studies at the Cherubini conservatory of Florence, graduating in violin. rous with great musicians. Born in 1760 Re minore still figure amongst the Family affairs, however, forced him to take care of the family patrimony: in via Fiesolana, where now there is a operas performed at many inter- he abandoned his studies, though on occasions he would dedicate time to commemorative plaque, he studied national theatres. He left behind lyric compositions for voice and pianforte. His passion was the promotion music with several Florentine masters, copious works, which feature of musical institutions and the organisation of concert agendas in his city, one of whom was Felici, and as a child numerous operas, quartets and starting in 1908 from the Quintetto senese per archi e pianoforte, which there is no doubt that he knew about religious music. was the first example of the Chigi formula of art at the service of charity: Mozart’s visit to Florence in 1770. After the Count, “impresario at a loss”, financed concerts, whose takings were an apprenticship in Bologna with Sarti,  FLORENCE destined for charitable organisations. He struck up friendships with the financed, it is said, by the Grand Duke most famous musicians of the time, including Arrigo Boito, who was his * VIA FIESOLANA Pietro Leopoldo, his music was recei- advisor on the occasion of the first centenary of the birth of Verdi in 1913, ved with interest by a number of Ita- Birthplace, with plaque celebrated with the Messa di requiem in the church of Saint Francesco. lian cities. True recognition came when Immediately after the war, he began restoring Palazzo Chigi Saracini, cre- he moved to Paris. There he estalished * BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE ating a concert hall, which in 1928 hosted the VI festival della Società per Piazza di Santa Croce himself as a composer of operas, la musica contemporanea, during which, for the first time ever, music by www.santacroceopera.it whose spirit effectively counterpoin- Prokofiev, De Falla, Walton, Casella and Ravel was performed. In 1932, with ted the passion and drama of events Cenotaph Chiesa di Santa Croce just twenty-two students enrolled, the Accademia musicale Chigiana came

in France at that time. He lived for to life, and in 1939 the Settimane musicali senesi were started. At the Acca- a long time in Paris, not missing out * CONSERVATORIO LUIGI demia, the chamber groups that were formed were destined to widespread CHERUBINI fame: in 1939 the Quintetto chigiano, in 1942 the Quartetto italiano, in 1950 118 on occasional visits to Vienna, where Piazza delle Belle Arti, 2 119

discovery guido saracini

the Madrigalisti dell’Accademia Chigiana. In 1958 Accademia finally became the Fondazione Accadem- ia Musicale Chigiana.

 SIENA IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY ** PALAZZO CHIGI SARACINI via di Città www.chigiana.it

Home of the Accademia Musicale Chigiana. See photo on the previous page. luigi DallaPiccola (Pisino d'istria, 1904 – Florence, 1975) ** DUOMO DI SIENA Piazza del Duomo http://operaduomo.siena.it Composer, didactician and himself ble to the public at the Gabinetto a critic, Dallapiccola was born in the Vieusseux and the Biblioteca Na- Cappella Chigi or del Voto Here there are famous in Trieste area of reconquered territory zionale Centrale of Florence (see marble by Bernini. but found his adopted home in Flor- photo above). ence, where he completed his studies at the conservatory, taught comple-  FLORENCE mentary piano and composition, and * CASA DI ANNALENA where, finally he spent his whole life. Via Romana, 34 International recognition, as both Commemorative plaque. composer and director, arrived at the end of the war. His musical language * FONDO DALLAPICCOLA responded to elements of dodacofo- BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE DI nia with effective dramaturgical writ- FIRENZE ing, according to the Italian tradition Piazza dei Cavalleggeri, 1 of opera, with particular attention to www.bncf.florence.sbn.it

the themes of exile, persecution and suffering, which had characterised * FONDO DALLAPICCOLA his youth. His wife donated to Florence GABINETTO VIEUSSEUX his immense library and some musical Archivio Contemporaneo “A. Bonsanti” Palazzo Corsini Suarez instruments, such as the piano he had Via Maggio, 42 -www.vieusseux.it used when composing, today accessi- 121 discovery ruggero leoncavallo

milieu of the era. Overburdoned with debt, he was forced to sell it in 1916 and he spent the WWI period in Tuscany. It was probably the attraction of great personalities like Toscanini, Gui, Puccini and Masca- gni that beckoned him to Montecatini Terme, where he appears to have established himself from 1913, albeit in a number of different locations. Here he composed Mameli (1916) and other operettas, whose performances he frequently directed. Although sometimes embittered by bad feelings with collea-

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY gues, in addition to being in debt and in poor health, this composer is remembered here as a generous and exhiliarating protagonist of high society. It was in Montecatini that the operattas Prestami tua moglie (1916) and, on Luigi Bonelli’s libretto, Il primo bacio, probably completed the same year as his death in 1919, were shown for the first time.

 PISTOIA  MONTECATINI TERME (PT)  (LU)

* CAFFÈ VALIANI * VIA ARCIMBOLDO GIANNINI, 20 * BAGNO NETTUNO Via Cavour, 55 Via Eleonora Duse, 12 The composer lived here, with com- Opened in 1864, it was a meeting point memorative plaque. See photo below. Frequented by Leoncavallo and other for Leoncavallo, Puccini, Verdi, Rossini musicians, as reported in numerous ruggero leoncavallo and Bellini. letters. (naples, 1857 – montecatini terme, 1919)

He was an Italian composer, author of lyrical opera and operetta. During his childhood, his father’s profession as a royal magistrate, took his family on extensive travels across the south of Italy; he himself tells the story of how Pagliacci was inspired by an act of violence in the province of Cosenza. Upon his return to Naples he enrolled in the conservatory and began to frequent theatres, becoming very fond of opera. From 1879 to 1892 he lived in Egypt with a paternal uncle who was a music master in the Italian Community. La- ter, after a brief stay in Paris, he settled in Milan. Impressed by the success of Pietro Mascagni’s Cavalleria Rusticana, he also decided to compose a realist opera, Pagliacci, of which he was both librettist and composer, and was his greatest success. Composed in just five months, it was performed at the Teatro Dal Verme in Milan in May 1892, directed by Arturo Toscanini. He composed various operettas and songs – the most famous, Mattina- ta (1904), was written for Caruso. From the 1890s, Leoncavallo resided in Switzerland, in Brissago, where he built Villa Myriam; completed in 1905 but 122 today, destroyed, it was the meeting place for the cultural and theatrical discovery Pietro mascagni

 LIVORNO

CHIESA DI S. BENEDETTO IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY Piazza XX Settembre

Plaque on the organ balcony where a young Mascagni used to practise.

Pietro mascagni MAUSOLEO CIMITERO DELLA (livorno, 1863 – rome, 1945) MISERICORDIA Via dell’Ardenza, 5

A musician with a rebellious temperament, who began his studies in his * FAMEDIO E LAPIDE home town: commemorative plaques can be seen in piazza Cavallotti, where COMMEMORATIVA his house was, and on his villa in viale Antignano, n. 103. He later moved SANTUARIO DELLA MADONNA to the conservatory in Milan, where he had to interrupt regular courses DI MONTENERO Piazza di Montenero, 9 because of lack of discipline. He won a competition, that was held by Pu- www.santuariomontenero.org blishing House Sonzogno in 1890, with Cavalleria rusticana: the opera in a single act on the libretto by his friends from Livorno: Giovanni Targioni Toz- TEATRO GOLDONI zetti and Guido Menasci, based on the novella of the same name by Giovanni Via Goldoni, 83 Verga. Performed the following year at the Costanzi theatre in Rome, it met with triumphant success, so much so as to become the statement verism in On August 14th, 1890 Cavalleria rusticana was performed here and it opera, for itsinspired synthesis of melodic effusion and dramatic impetus. saw him return to the podium several The following year, the composer, attenuated the parts that had character- times (see some well-known faces in ised his masterpiece in L’amico Fritz: it did not achieve the same results as the adjacent photo) his debut work, nor did his later pieces which were, at times, appreciable butled to him attaining a prominent role on the Italian music scene with fre- TERRAZZA MASCAGNI quent foreign tours. Director of the Music Lyseum in Pesaro from 1895, he Located on the sea front, this was built founded an orchestra that he directed for the last time at the inauguration in the 1930s and after the war was ceremony of the monument to Rossini at Santa Croce, in Florence, on June named after the composer 23rd, 1902. In 1940, Cavalleria rusticana was recorded in vinyl with Mascagni (see photo above). directing the orchestra at La Scala. Upon his death on August 4th, 1945, in an Italy that had only just been liberated, a crowd in Rome paid him an af- fectionate tribute before his body was transferred to Livorno. 124 discovery guido monaco d'arezzo

place to be the village of Talla, on the road that climbs from Rassina to Pratomagno. He visited Rome twice to be received by the pope; he returned to Pomposa where he may have visited the hermitage of Camaldoli. His presence in Florence has not been proved. Each year, since 1952, the polyphonic compe- tition is celebrated in Arezzo, and Gregorian chants are performed. In Prato, a famous choir is named after him. IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY  AREZZO  TALLA (AR)  PRATO

** PIAZZA GUIDO MONACO * CASA NATALE * CORALE “GUIDO MONACO” www.ecomuseodelcasentino.it Via San Vincenzo, 12 Monument dedicated to the monk (see photo below). According to tradition, here in Rassina, Founded in 1878, ex monastery of San in the hamlet of La Castellaccia, stands Clemente. The “Guido Monaco” archive the birthplace of Guido d’Arezzo. is also housed here (see photo on * COLLE E PARCO DEL PIONTA previous page). The old cathedral of Arezzo once stood guido monaco d'arezzo here but was destroyed in the 16th  FLORENCE (talla o arezzo, 992 ca. – fonte avellana?, 1050) century. Some remains can still be  LIVORNO seen. * PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI CORALE POLIFONICA Lorenzo Nencini, Statue of Guido “GUIDO MONACO” Guido d’Arezzo, Benedictine monk, elaborated the Gregorian chant and ** FONDAZIONE “GUIDO D’AREZZO” Monaco, 1837, marble. via Donnini, 167 is considered to be the inventor of musical notation. A marble sculpture Corso Italia www.polifonico.org by Salvino Salvini (1882), at the centre of the great tree-filled square in Arezzo, named after him, depicts this famous figure: he has a long beard, a Since 1952 the foundation has been white gown and, in one hand, he carries an antiphonary with a piece of the organising the Concorso polifonico hymn to San Giovanni Battista by Paolo Diacono; the pedestal is carved with internazionale, nazionale e di compo- episodes from his legendary life. He studied at the Benedictine monastery sizione, and each year, on June 21st, it celebrates the great Guido, Monk in Pomposa, near Ferrara, which he left in 1025 to be a guest of Teodaldo, of Arezzo. bishop of Arezzo, at the old cathedral in Pionta: it was to him that he dedi- cated his famous treaty on the theory of music, the Micrologus Guidonis. * FILARMONICA GUIDO MONACO His innovative teaching method was founded on written annotation, which www.arezzoweb.it/2009 permitted singers to learn and sing in tune songs that they had never heard Founded in 1809, it organises events. before. The monk assigned names to the notes that corresponded to the first six syllables of Diacon’s hymn (hemistich) and marked them, square in shape, on the lines of a tetragram. He also invented the diatonic scale and the method known as “solemnization”. In Arezzo, the house where he was 126 born in via Cesalpino is marked, whilst tradition prefers to have his birth- discovery Jacopo Peri

ves, dances, intermedi and tornei: in 1605, at the Casino di Antonio dei Medici in Scandiano, the first ever performance of the musical fairytale Il Natal d’Ercole on the libretto by Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger; in 1619, he composed the music for the festival of love and beauty in piazza Santa Croce Guerra, and in 1624 he wrote La canzone delle lodi dell’Austria performed at Villa di Poggio Imperiale. He was buried in the church of Santa Maria Novella, in the family tomb of his wife, who died shortly IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY after him. The burial spot is marked by a modern plaque.

 FLORENCE

BASILICA DELLA SS. ANNUNZIATA * BASILICA DI S. MARIA NOVELLA Piazza SS. Annunziata Piazza di Santa Maria Novella annunziata.xoom.it www.smn.it

The composer’s place of burial. Jacopo Peri Via del Proconsolo, 11

(rome, 1561 – Florence, 1633) * PALAZZO BARDI Via de’ Benci, 5 He was an opera singer, composer and musician. He spent almost his entire career in Florence: beginning as a young singer of lauda at the organ of the Between 1572 and 1582, this was the Camerata dei Bardi. Santissima Annunziata; later he was organist in the Badia (1579-1608) and singer in the choir of San Giovanni Battista (1586-1590). He began to visit the * PALAZZO CORSI TORNABUONI court, becoming music teacher to the Medici princesses, and he was intro- Via Tornabuoni, 16 duced to the Camerata dei Bardi, a circle of artists that was also frequented The Camerata after 1582. by his colleague-rival Giulio Caccini. The circle met inside the Palace of pa- tron Giovanni Maria de' Bardi whose intention was to bring Greek tragedy VIA DEI FOSSI, 19 back into vogue. Whilst they did not succeed in this, they generated a new musical genre: the melodrama. Peri, after writing compositions of fairyta- Peri’s former home. les in music such as Dafne, performed for the first time at Palazzo Corsi in 1598, he composed the oldest opera that has survived to the present day: * SALA BIANCA - PALAZZO PITTI Euridice was put on the stage on October 6th, 1600 in Palazzo Pitti for the Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 wedding of Maria dei Medici and Enrico IV King of France. The librettist was www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti

Ottavio Rinuccini, but some sections had been composed by Giulio Caccini, Here the first opera, Euridice was who published his own complete Euridice before his rival. Peri came back perfomed. 128 from this checkmate by composing successful musical fairytales, recitati- 130 IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY harmonist. Among his main interests was hunting, so much so that in1900 in1900 that so much so was hunting, interests main his Among harmonist. refined was amodern, he procedures; polyphonic and to contrapuntal turn usually not did Puccini century. nineteenth of the elements new embracing whilst elegance, and intensity with tradition musical century nineteenth ras, amongst the most significant in the of history melodrama, continued to: to: editor the by Ricordi supported group, awork formed he gave rise , which whom with Giacosa, Giuseppe and Illica Luigi as such writers, and journalists of anumber with libretti of opera review the on collaborated He to Monza. moved he scandal, was agreat which Bonturi, Elvira named from Lucca lady Teatro aseparated the at with eloping After del Verme. in1884 appearance first his made he ofhere Milan: conservatory the at studies his perfected singer. rising He Teatro ayoung the at accompanying del Giglio, performed also he a pianist as but parish, family was Donato, inthe in 1877, which and Paolino of Santissimi Church acomposer, as inthe and, cians debut his made of musi son was He the lifetime. his during success wide world achieved A great composer of opera Verdi, of heir Giuseppe the to be , considered (lucca, 1858 –Bruxelles,(lucca, 1924) 1858 giacomo puccini la Boheme la (1896), (1896), Tosca (1900) and Madame Butterfly Madame (1904). His ope - - giacomo puccini discovery baptised here Museo diPuccini, he was born and www.puccinimuseum.org Corte San Lorenzo, 9 NATALE ** CASA  composed he and House Opera an of building dreamed he tion: Lake the on villa of Massaciuccoli to turreted moved his he inspira great found he that was here . It together at least twice. tion: the two met artists and worked Important for precious documenta- Caprona Location  Celle dei Puccini Via Meletoli  Piazza Cittadella in 2008, and has 3100 seats. Puccini’s Torre of di chapel Villa is inthe tomb del Lago. seats. 3100 has and in 2008, Puccini aTorre summer, Teatro was built which Grande the at every Puccini del held Festival, Lago.The the founded he in 1930, indeed, director: writer, and comedy Forzano, Giovacchino librettist to friend his thanks maestro’s the true Following came death. dream his after his death, completed west MONUMENTO A PUCCINI CASA MUSEO DI G.CASA PASCOLI PUCCINIMUSEO DI CASA LUCCA BARGA (LU)BARGA (LU) (1907-1910), La rondine La (1914-1916) and Viale Buonarroti   VILLA PUCCINIVILLA PUCCINIVILLA VIAREGGIO (LU) VIAREGGIO CHIATRI (LU) il Trittico il (1913-1918). La Boheme La Turandot composer. Mausoleum and burial place of the www.museogiacomopuccini.it Viale Puccini, 266 MUSEO** VILLA PUCCINI Piazzale , 4 **  DI MASSACIUCCOLI TEATRO ALL’APERTO TORRE DEL LAGO (LU)TORRE DELLAGO , was the last of his works, of works, his last was the Tosca and and La Fanciulla del del Fanciulla La Festival di - discovery Gioacchino rossini

Chamber and sacred compositions date to this period, particularly the Petite Messe Solennelle. He was buried in the Paris cemetery, Père Lachaise, but later his body was moved to a place established by his wife, a wish he had expresed in his will, and Pélissier chose Florence: on May 7th, 1887, the musician’s body arrived at the station of Santa Maria Novella and, on a funeral carriage designed by artist, Nicco- lò Barabino, he crossed the city to piazza Santa Croce, where three hundred singers sang the preghiera IMPORTANT FIGURES IN TUSCANY del Mosè. His tomb, placed in the Tempio delle Itale Glorie, was sculpted by Giuseppe Cassioli and re- calls those of the Renaissance.

 FLORENCE

** MONUMENTO FUNEBRE BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE Piazza Santa Croce www.santacroceopera.it

Gioacchino rossini On the right nave, sculpted in marble (Pesaro, 1792 – Passy, parigi, 1868) by Giuseppe Cassioli, terminated in 1900 (see adjacent photo).

The son of musicians, he studied in Bologna and had his first successes in Venice and Rome, composing numerous amusing and serious operas. In 1816 he wrote his masterpiece, Barbiere di Siviglia, in just fifteen days. Following that, he became involved with the Teatro San Carlo of Naples, but was not averse to visiting Vienna (where he met Beethoven), London and Paris, where he, as music maestro and conductor, and his wife, soprano Isabella Colbràn, were both appreciated. His triumph at the Paris Opéra dates to 1829 with the drama Guillaume Tell. He then settled in Bologna, where he interrupted his work as a composer and withdrew into private life, collabo- rating with theatre staging and writing. This was a choice dictated by both poor health and altered musical taste, which continued to become more di- stant from graceful eighteenth century style. In 1846, after the death of his first wife, he married Olympe Pélissier. In 1848 he settled in Florence, and traces of his presence thereare found in the commemorative plaques of via Cavour, n. 13, and in the stables of Villa Stibbert. Nonetheless, because of his depression, this was not a happy period. He, therefore, set off once again 132 for Paris, where he stayed unitl his death at his villa in Passy. Editorial project: Librì progetti educativi and Toscana Promozione Turistica In collaboration with: Centro Guide Turismo Firenze e Toscana Editor: M. Cristina Zannoner Editorial coordination: Roberta Masselli Scientific coordination: Mario Carniani Texts and fact cards by: Mario Carniani, Enzo Emilio Cusumano, Alberto Desideri, Marco Edigati, Guia Fantuzzi, Sara Innocenti, Antonella Massa, Andrea Padovano, Duccio Pieri, Ilaria Taddei, Elisa Tagliaferri, Rita Tambone Translation: Lucy Claire Smith Editing: Fabio Leocata Graphics and pagination: Tommaso Vignoli Technical Department: Michele Andreuccetti

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