. CuTTNARYHrsroRnr{s oF Npw YoRr . Volume24, No.2 Spring2011 Touring;Shopping, Cooking, Equals Banquet Text:Donna Gelb I LindaPelaccio Photos:Donna Gelb

\ fOLUNTEERING has its V perLs as a few ofus discovered in February. We had agreed to make some Chinese recipessent in by our scholarship program speaker,Willa Zhen, to be served at her February 17th CHNY program tided, "Can- tonese Cooking Schools: tansmit- ting Knowledge and Ti'ansforming Cuisine." Sincewe neededhelp translating and shopping for ingredients like Volunteerc(. to r) Anne Mendelson,Carolina Capehart (with her backtarned), Kinn Larn Kho, Charity Robey,Linda Pelaccio,and Andy Coe,aisit a dried store in Chinatown. osmanthus flower honey and facing- food heaven chilies, blogger and cooking Chinatown: a large swath south of Our first stop was outside a mar- instructor Kian Lam Kho agreed to Canal Street; a section farther East ket on Mott Street where rows of lead us on a shopping tour of Man- under the Manhattan bridge which basketsfilled with dried mushrooms, hattan'sChinatown and then assistin focuses on regional specialties; and fruits, and fish awaited identification the meal's preparation a week prior an areaNorth of Canal Street from and descriptions for use. Next door to the event. Mulberry to Chrystie between Hes- was a vegetable stand where we dis- Kian explained that there are ter and Grand, which is where we covered fresh water chesrruts looking three different shopping areas of spent the day. Continued.on page 6

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the two clich6s that us, and all the glitches E\ORGIVE have been I' will form the core of this chair- addressed.My thanks to everyone man'sletter: "silenceis golden" and for their cooperation and especially CHNY Boaid of Directors "a picture is worth one thousand to Kathrym and Holley for their hard 2010-2011 words." work. On the "silence" front, all the This edition of the CHNY , very diligent efforts of the indefati- Newsletter is a departure from our gable KathnTn McGowan and Hol- normal, highly verbal format. Rather ley Atkinson have paid off with our than attempt to summarize so many switch to our on-line renewal system of the events that have contributed for memberships. The transition to the successof the 2010-11 sea- from paper to e-commerce has saved son, we are sharing pictures of our the organization time and money two trademark events, the CHNY (helping to keep your membership Scholar's Grant presentation and feesdown, hint, hint), hasminimized the 2010 Amelia Award program. our impact on the environment, and The Scholar's Grant program this has made it possibleto time renew- year included some of the behind- als more accurately,so that each the-scenes action that folks who member gets the full benefit of her are not part of the Programming or his annual membership, rather Committee would have missed: a than using an arbitrary September Chinatown shopping adventure with renewal date. cooking instructor and chef Kian All of this was accomplished in a Lam Kho and master cooking class transition that was both gentle and with Kian and Zhen in www culmaryh rstofl ansny.org Willa advance i quiet: the few members who dis- ofher program on Cantonesecook- covered bugs in the software before ing schools. These photos ought to Pleasesend/e-urad;;, we did whispered the problems to encouragefolks to contribute time to ,l&*::"ry't*' , T:T:l.Spenceil:lt",-- -":$ '

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theArnelia Award at theAstor Center. the Programming Committee. Our Searchingfor the AmericaEats most elaborateprogram of the season Archive was a panel discussion tided Heir- and Gettinga Thsteof 1930sAmerica loom Seedsand Heritage Breeds: CamilleB€gin How Our Agricultural Past Informs the Way We Eat Today. Held in the spring of 2007 JN honor of Betty Fussell'sreceipt of the Ithe CHNYheld a one- 2010 Amelia Award, it brought out day symposium on the a huge crowd and some of the most 1930spioneering gov- influential actors working today in ernment-sponsored food heri tagelheirloom foodways. study entitled America Eax. A,project of the New Deal's Federal Writers' Froject (FWP) the book aimed at documenting To invoke one more clich6, I American regional food- wish I could report that "no news is ways. Yet, America Eats good news." IJnfortunately, I have never reached publica- the sad chore of reporting the death tion and, although pre- of Rheda Brandt, a member of the cious files are archived at Programming Committee aswell as the Library of Congress, the National Arts Club's Culinary state and local archives Arts Committee, after a brief ill- still hold the bulk of the ness. Rheda's signature sryle will be groundbreaking FW?'s sorely missed, as well as her energ'y food writing. and enthusiasm for making every The goal of the CHNY event a success.No iob was 2007 srrmposiumwas the ever too large, or, asimportandy, too launch of an ambitious Cookingspaghetti and frying chickenfor spaghenisupper at GrapeFestiaal, Tbntitown, small, for the elegandy coifed Rheda project aimed at establish- Arkansas,Aagust 16, 1941. to undertake with gusto, whether it ing a comprehensive survey of the The demanding task of unearthing was brainstorming program ideas or America EaB archive throughout the the entire collection was daunting picking up the trash after an event United States.Notonlyis rheAmerica to do alone so I decided to consider while managing, somehoq to main- Eats archive a record of culinary tra- the America Eats project in connec- tain a flawless manicure. Wb will miss ditions and regional cuisine, it is a tion with the FWP's folklore collec- her. vivid and crucial historical document tion. The resulting dissertation is a eTva for understanding the evolution of sensory narrative of 1930s America American taste in the 20th century. attentive to the role food and taste The full record of the American Eats played in the making of race, ethnic- papers would enable historians to ity, and nation in the interwar United i further researchthe assumption that States. I ScHor-entsGnRr.m WWII and the post-war advancesin Photographsprepared for the Dneornw food processing were key causesof Americn Eats project encapsulate The deadline for filing for change in contemporary American the culinary pluralism of Americans the 2011 Culinary llistorians tastes. and ethnic Americans in the inter- Scholar'sGrant is Tuesday, As a first year doctoral student, war period. Consider for instance Mry 31, 2011. Information I attended the CHNY symposium the above picture of the annual and applicationsare available and exchanged conversation with Grape Festival's spaghetti dinner in at www.culinaryhistoriansny. scholars, students, gourmets, and Tontitown, Arkansas. The caption orglamelia.html. connoisseursabout the scopeand the and image reveal that the Italian- I location of {te Americn Eats archive. I Continuedon page 10 I i l_.. dinner's venison shoulder (he finally buys one). My favorite section con- BOOKREVIEWS cerns a cow's head, in which he man- agesto shove everything you'll ever FervNrr'sLesr Supprn: the wrong side of the tracks. Never need to know about the purchasing, Rn-cnnerrNc ONp AMAZTNG mind. Kimball was in love and soon skinning, cleaving and cooking of MBar-FRoM FarvNrn FanuBn's discovering treasures in the once said head,just in caseyou lose your 1896Coornoox elegantstreets, including the Boston marbles and want to try. by ChristopherKimball (Hyperion Cooking Schoolfromwhich Farmer By the time Kimball escorrs us 2010) ruled. This led to what can only be to the anticipated evening, you will Reviewedby PatWillard called a happy mania as a seemingly feel like a true Victorian, knowing saneidea takesshape: recreate from not just about cooking but life itself llACH issueof Cook'slllustrated, scratch a classic Victorian dinner in the late 1800s.The dinner prepa- LChristopher Kimball'sidio- menu from Farmer's cookbook. He rations, which are tackled by five syncratic, wonderfully democratic would prepare all twelve coursesfor assistantsand Kimball over several magazine, is a great ball of recipes, twelve very lucky guests. days, encompassmore drama, near techniques, and cultural and culi- Where would the humor be in disasters,and vaudeville skits than nary history. But for all its virtues, such a chore? From the first page to the average food book reveals. But it's not a magazine that has ever the last, asit turns out. Minutes into by the time the guests-all lumi- seemed to acknowledge, let alone his pursuit, Kimball admits that he's naries dressed to the nines-arrive, embody, what I think is essentialin over his head. But then he'stoo fabu- everything is miraculously in place, a kitchen-a sense of humor about lous a reporter to let go of the fun including a fanciful ice swan. The the glorious absurdity of cooking. he'shaving researching and speaking last courseis clearedby one a.m. and Without humoq cooking can turn with everyone he can find that may the photographs provided proved into drudgerywhich leadsto resent- know something about anything that they all had an inordinately ment, which often results in a table touching on the dinner. Most of all, swell time. Even the kitchen help, full of anything but a generous feast. Kimball sinks into a true writer's exhaustedas they should be, claimed Kimball. asmuch asI admire him passion-bringing to life what is lost it was the most fun they ever had. and his magazine, has never seemed and gained by the passageof history. And that's the beautyof Kimball's to be someone I would like to horse In telling Farmer's personal story book Fannie'sLnst Sapperreminds us around with in the kitchen and be he accomplisheswhat is often left what the Victorians knew very well, certain there would be a joyfr:l dinner out of culinary history: endowing and which Farmer's cookbook, in its at the end. Wonderfullyknowledge- the reader not only with historical way, encapsulates.By taking on this able, generous in his wish to tell his knowledge but with an intimate great adventure Kimball seems to readersall kinds ofnuanced, quirky understandingof people long gone. have had a rousing good time enter- details-he would be exciting to As eachdish in the menu is tested taining his friends and readers alike stand beside at the stove. But I never and tested and tested again, Kimball by bringing them to the table with could envision us sitting over a glass piles on more tidbits-how to cook a munificent serving of equal pars ofwine and laughing about the happy on a Victorian-era stove; how food wisdom and merriment. pratfalls that are inherent to all culi- and cooking methods evolved; how Pat Willard. is the author of nary endeavors. counfiJr girls left service for the fac- America Eats!: On the Road with Thatwas before I read Kimball's tories; how the middle classchanged the WPA (Bloomsbary,2008),aing superb new book, Fannie'sLast Sap- almost everything in the city. All the WPA papers as a basisfor her own per: Re-creating One Amazing Meal along, he's dealing with modern ercploratiln of foods acrossthe czuntry; from Fannie Farmer's 1896 Cookbook. concerns,not the leastofwhich is the Secrets of Saffron, The Vagabond IIe starts when his family move possibility of his houseburning down Life of the World's Most Seduc- into a Victorian townhouse in the from the two lovinglyrestoredwood tive Spice @eaconPress, 2001). Her South End of Boston. If the house and coal burning stoves.There is also cornpletebio including other booksand. was perfect, the neighborhood was the travesty of his hunting adventure recent magazine articles can befound down-at-the-heels and literally on for the deer that would provide the on www.patui llard. com. Eiuprnpsor Fooo: Fusr. conclude that "nested bioregional- FeurNe,AND THE RrsB eNo ism," a mixture of local and global, Fhr-r op Cryrr,rzATroN trMPIRES would hopefullyfend offdisaster and Evan D. G. Fraser and Andrew OF put an end to monoculture agricul- Rimas(Free Press, 2010) ^irr ture. But in their generalizations, rooD they provide few definitive solutions Reviewedby Cynthia D. Bertelsen to the impending doom that they predict and they ignore the power of pmpires of Food,Evan D. G. modern science in effecting change -Lz Fraser and Andrew Rimas's in agriculture. latesttrendy foray into the world of As for specific criticism about food history predicts a dire future Empires of Food,a nagging suspicion for modern large-scaleagriculture. Fnnsr, FxivuNr, alrD THE Rrsn mln Feu, persisted throughout the reading And obviouslyfor the humanbeings or. Crvgrznrrol.ls of this book: the authors set out who dependupon that agriculture. to prove a firm conclusion and not Fraser and Rimas'sprevious joint to test a hypothesis. In that regard effort, Beef:The UntoldStory of How they resemble the English historian, Milk, Meat, and Mascle Shapedthe Arnold Toynbee, with his "challenge- World,appeared in 2008. Fraser,a a 17th-centuryFlorentine trader and-response" theory of history. geographeqlectures at the lJniver- namedFrancesco Carletti. "a minor Comparative history not being in sity of Guelph and the University of cherubin the historicalfresco," who vogue these days, it is easy to dis- Leeds,while Rimasworksas manag- providesa sort of picaresque,Don- miss the work and point an accusing ing editor at the ImproperBostonian Quixote-like presencethroughout finger, saylng something like, "Ah, magazine. the narrative.And the modern-day but they are not historians, and Their premise in Emp iresof Fo o d? Three Gorges Dam in China's neither is Jared Diamond, another Food empires(or civilization aswe YangtzeValley provides the other geographer, who wrote Collapseand. know it) only exist (and survive)if Ariadne-likefilament. Guns, Gerrns,and Steel." In addition threecriteria occur: "Farmers need fu much as Fraserand Rimas's to hanging on to their fixed theory to grow more food than they eat; initial ideasmight resonatewith the authors make a few factual blun- they need a meansof trading it to contemporaryfoodexperts, the book ders in basic history and interject willing buyers;and they need a way readschoppily at times, crazilyrico- too many modern allusions into to store it so it doesnt dissolveinto cheting through the whole gaundet their discussions of food from the sludgebefore reaching its economic of human history in nine chapters, past; the worst offender is a section apotheosis." On the surface,this startingwith the "Desert Fathers" in Chapter Two, titled "Ilannibal soundsreasonable. After all, food and endingwith "Fair flade." On Lectured." Fraser and Rimas also fail playedan immenselyimportant role one page,In 1662Charles II of to mention Edo-eraJapan,as well as in humanhistory a fact that hasbeen England takesas his wife a Catho- the work of human ecologist Robert convenientlyignored in academia lic, Portugueseprincess Catherine Netting and agricultural economist until recently. of Braganza,who wanted her tea, Ester Boserup, who wrestled with The authors suggestthat large please.Tro pageslater, in a leap of questions of food and population. food systemsare not sustainableand two centuriesas quick asthe snapof As long as the reader doesn't never have been. Human societies two fingers,Victorian Englandfinds hold it against the authors that the of today facesure demise,they say, itself immersedin the teaand opium book is neither a true history nor of because"the lesson from history trade. the highest standards of academic is that big civilizationsare built on fu proponentsof Slow Food, scholarship, newcomers to the field ground no firmer than the mud Fraserand Rimas state simplistically of food studies will find Empires of undertheir rice paddies." that, "All the evidencetells us that Fooda quirky and entertaining intro- Fraserand Rimastie their ideas industrial farming is unsustainable, duction to the problems of provid- together via two flimsy threads. but the world has been bribed into ing nourishment for humans over The first hinges on the travels of blindnessby a hamsandwich." They Continuedon page 10 \blunteers like daffodil bulbs in their papery brown husks. Continaedfrom page 1 Kian told us theywere in seasonfor only a short time each year, which prompted a few of us to make a quick purchase.We also found there the flat, green Chinese chives and stalks of fresh garlic chivesthat were necessaryfor the recipeswe were to prepare. Farther along was a fish stand offer- ing an incredible variety of fresh,frozen, and live fish and crustaceansas well as giant buckets full of hefty frogs and slithering eels. Wirg Fat Company, on Grand Street, was much like a museum of science and natural history. Dried fish and flowers, day-lily buds, crocodile skins,sea horses and flying lizards were among the desiccatededibles that play a dual role of both food and medication in contemporary Inspecting dried vallops and d.ried.rad.ishes (in Kian's hand.). Chinese life. Here, too, the controversial dried shark fin was offered in varying forms at astro- nomical prices. Spanning the block between Mott and Elizabeth Streets is the Deluxe Meat Market, where we headedfor porkbelly and fresh ducks. Nesded in the display casenext to the traditional cuts of meatwere stacksof chicken feet and trays ofbirds'beaks, and at the end ofthe counter sat a box filled with dark, leathery turde meat. Walking further into the marketwe arrived at Kian's promised treat, a room filled wit-h cases of prepared noodles, rice, vegetables,fried meats and fish, bakery sweets, and a few tables and chairs at which to enjoy them. Time for a lunch break, but not for long. We had more shop- ping to do. The Hong Kong Supermarket on Flester Street has two floors filled with botded Annepointing at driedfennel. sauces,jars and barrels ofpreserved foods, exotic canned goods and spices,fresh, dried, and frozen noodles, in addition to fresh meat, produce, and fish. By this time our bags were bulging with foods that would flavor the dishes to be served at the following week's program. The day of the talk fell on the Lantern Festival, the last day of the Lunar New Year celebrations.Willa chosedishes typically served in Canton, including a version of Pork Belly with PreservedMusard Greens from the Hakka people of eastern Guangdong Province, and Glutinous Rice Balls with Osmanthus Flower Honey and Wine Syrup, a traditional Lantern Festival sweet. Kian showinga packetof dried bamboopith. Continued on page I Wruing aarioas dried plants and seafood. Andy looking oaerdisplays at Wing Fat.

A luncboffried pork chopsand stickyrice.

Anne inspectingdried lily bulbsegment. Variousgrad.a of dried.f.sh blad.derand gelatine. Volunteers with minced garlic and ginger, soy and oyster sauces, Continaedfrom page 7 and shaoxingwine. Thenwe blanched the meat, pricked At one o'clock on February 17,with hours until show the skin, coated it with a mixture of dark soy sauceand time, the cooks got down to businessin Donna's Upper honey, and slowly browned it in the wok until the skin West Side kitchen with Kian and Willa in charge. We became a deep mahogany. We carved the belly into started with the pork belly, a dish calling for meticulous quarter-inch-thick slices with sharp, clean cuts of the handling since its final appeal lies in the rich burnished cleaver,taking care to keep them in their original order color of the intact skin after the dish is unmolded. to maintain the shape of the uncut belly. We arranged We began by thoroughly draining the preserved the slices skin side down in a large stainlesssteel bowl, mustard greens,which had been soaking in water. Anne and covered them with the mustard greens.After wrap- Mendelson sliced them crosswise.then stir-fried them ping the bowl tighdywith foil, we placediton a rackover water in a covered lobster pot to steam for two hours. The meat and greenswould be unmolded together into a wide serving bowl at the event. While the porkwas steaming, Kian showed us how to hack the duck into bite-sized pieces, which we then browned with sliced ginger, whole chilies (we used bird chilies. which Kian assuredus had faced heaven while on the vine), star anise, cloves, garlic, and cassiabark and then braisedthe piecesin beer. The longevity noodles, which Anne purchased pre- fried and dried, just needed to be boiled and stir-fried with slivers of smoky tofu, sliced cabbage, Chinese mushrooms, carrots, scallions, garlic, soy and oyster sauces,and shaoxingwine. Heaps of Chinese broccoli were blanched to a brilliant green and lighdy seasoned with soy. With covered pots and shopping bags in tow we headed acrosstown to set up just in time for the pro- gram. The food was a hit. It disappearedin a flash, and Aboae,Kian beginshacking ap a fiae poandduck into 32 pieces. the experience and lessonsfor the few luckyvolunteers Below,he continaes hackingbefore carefully browningand braising was well worth the time and effort. the duckin beerwitb wbolespices and. garlic chael

Willa overseesAnne asshe stirfria mustardgrems. Abooe, Elizabeth &ryangessticky rice stafftd with roast pork and Maxer Classparticipants: (left n right) Kian Lam Kho, Elizabeth mushroomsand wrapped in lotus leauesboaght at the rnarket as a Alston, Donna Gelb, Willa Zhen, Cbarity Robey,andAnne Men- snack for the "chefs."Below, Anne beginsseraing. delson.On the table are Boiled Crreens,Pork Belly with preserved Mastard Greens,Beer Dack, Longeuity Noodtcsiln{ront are New Year'sCapcakes and SesarneCookia (rigbt) and a traditional Can- toneseLantent Festiaal treat, Glatinous Rice Bafis in Osmanthus Flower Honey and Sweet Wine Syrup.

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gar| Btt/g wtL 9 racnd,\,twtard Donna Gelb is a food writer and reciped.euehper in New Erww York City. She deaeloped.the recipesfir Seven Fires: BarbNctr. Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallman and Peter Knminsky (Artisnn 2009). She has taaght wood /- orgw ttg N oo / la wrtL g rcnd foJa (/o't f.re griiling at Saueur Langued.ocin soathem France and Ja6alL) will be offtriog cookingclasses in NYC in June focasing on ind.oorgrilling and.home cookingbasics. Boibl $rccn",

Linda Pelaccio is a culinary media coachand the radio host Wl,ttckicc of 'A Thsteof th ePnst" on www.HeriugeRad.ioNetwork.com.

$lutrtow 8,,icoB a/b tn Om^q.]LtkuFLowa Kian Lam Kho is a chef,food writery teacherand.food (7, ax/ SwvctWr rc Sgr-rgi consubantspecializing in Chinesecuisine. He is the meatnr "V of the Chinesehome cooking blog Red Cook (hnp://www. Cl*nacXcwloari Swcetr redcook.net),which is a fnalist for the 2011 JamesBeard Foundation Award.. He is alsoa co-aathor of a cookbook Knack Chinese Cooking: A Snp-by-Sup Guidn to Authentic DishesMad.e Easy (I(nack: Make it Easy). Empires of Food Continuedfrom page5 the millennia. Other recent books on the subject of food and popula- tion include Pandora'sSeed (2010), by Spencer Wells and Hangry City (2008), by Carolyn Steel. But the EARLYJLTNE,date TBA definitive historyof empires and food ClaudiaRoden on her new book, remains yet to be written. TbeFood, of Spain(Ecco, 2011). A member of tbe Nntional Book Critics Circle, writer, historinn, and THURSDAY,JLINE 16 nutritionist Cyntbia D. Bertelsen "ReconstructingHistoric Royal writes a food history blog, "Gberkins Kitchens," Marc Meltonville, dJ Tbmatoes/ Cot"nichonsd, Tomates" Food Historian,llampton Court (hnp: // gherkinstomatoes. com), coa ering Palace,England. A fully illus- the cuisinesof France nnd her former trated talk looking at the work colonies.Cynthin's forthcoming book, beingdone in the Tirdor kitchens Mushroom: A Global History, will of Henry VII and a peek into be pablished by Reaktion Books. She the newly discoveredkitchens of also works with the Peacock-Harper GeorgeIII. Culinary History Friends at Wrginia Tbch.

America Eats Continaedfrom page j American communityhad a taste for food folklore and sayings.Finding nt the Uniuersity ofTbronto.A scholarof both an iconic ethnic dish, heaped the remaining gemsof the America American cubural histoU, ber research plates of spaghetti, and an old-time Eats projectwill require dedicated focuseson food and.sensory bistory aswell southern favorite, fried chicken. recruits acrossthe country will- as on material cuhure. Part of her work Immersion in the FWP archive ing to not only hunt for the FWP on tbe FWP is published in the Spring and scholarship persuadedme that culinary trail but also take on the 2011 issae of the Radical History the CHNY's call for an archival taskof applyingfor grant and spon- Review on "Radical Food." Sbe zttill survey of the America Ea.tsproject sorship. Researcherswill have to also bepresenting at tbe Associationfor should not be overlooked. A com- be ready to rummage through the the Stady of Food,and Society (ASFS) prehensive catalog of the America more than sixty state institutions Canfermcein fune 2011 . Beforerelocat- Eatsprojectwould provide an abun- in possessionof FWP materials. ingtoTbronto, Camille eamed'her MA dant and reliable source material The reward? Hours of gripping at the Sorbonne Uniaerity in Paris, for scholars of food, history and mouth-watering reading as well France. folklore researching a variery of as a deeperunderstanding of the subjects. To name a few: regional making of American taste in the foodways, women's history culinary 20th cennrry and of the roots of tourism, the rise of the supermar- the contemporaryfood movement. ket. the historv of the restaurant. Cami.lleBdgi.n is a PhD candidate

10 In January at the Top 100 Chinese MemberNews RestaurantsAwards ceremony in San Francisco,Jacqueline M. Newman (CHNY's 2009 Amelia Award Win- JeffBerry', medieval culinary histo- Turkish ice cream its interesting ner) received, in addition to other rian, has recendy launched his new extensible and nutritional qualities awards, a medal for "Excellence in website, www.aspiringluddite.com, Chinese Cuisine" and was inducted which features food writings (not Judith Klinger has published her into the Chinese Restaurant News all medieval),aswell as occasional first cookbook, Cooking Simply:The category of "Influential Person- philosophical meanderings. halian Way! An e-book published alities in the Restaurant Industry." by Vook.com, it is an enhanced Rynn Berry, author of The Wgan e-book with classic Italian recipes On March 18th, Linda Pelaccio Guide to New York City, the first and integrated videos. It has been was interviewed byAmyEddings on exclusivelyvegetarian guideboolg has featured by Apple's iBooks store as the Last Chance Foods segment on madethe 2011 edition availableas an "New & Notable." Created for the NPR's All Things Considered..They iPhone app. Owners of an iPhone home cook, Cooking Simply builds talked aboutthe historyof curry*ith may purchase it from the Apple app the viewer's cooking skills. It's like Colleen Thylor Sen,a recent guest on store. having a cooking class in your own Linda's radio show,AThste ofthe Past. home, or better yet, in her home in The complete show can be heard at Cynthia Bertelsen (http://gherkin- Italy. With respect for ingredients http ://www.heritageradionerwork. stomatoes.com)is writin g Mushroam: and the seasons,Judith invites the com/archives? search=Colleen+ A GlobalHistory for theEdible Series viewer to relax and enioy time in Taylor+Sen produced by Reaktion Books (tIK). the kitchen. Her biographical sketch of the Mexi- Susan Mclellan Plaisted, propri- can cooking expert, Diana Kennedy, Nora Maynard's essayabout obso- etress,Heart to Hearth Cookery will appeared in IcunsofAmerican Cooking, lete food words, tided "Word Love: be teaching the art of hearth cooking published by ABC-CLIO in March. Eat a Prandicle," appearedin Leite's using early l9th-century receipts at She is also writing an entry on the Culinaria in February. She presented Historic Speedwell, Morristown, French chef Jean-Georges Vong- her seminar, "Classic Cocktails, NJ in May and October. Informa- erichten for the second edition of Classic Film" at the FilmColumbia tion about the classescan be found The Oxford Enq,clopediaof Food and Festival in October. She presented at www.hearttohearthcookery. com. Drink in America. another in her cocktails-in-film series at the Astor Center in April Peter G. Rose gave a talk in Patricia Gadsby helped shepherd and will again at the Manhattan the Netherlands at the Westfries the Falmouth Farmers'Market on Cocktail Classic in May. She read a Museum in March. She will speak Cape Cod through another year new essayat the Think[.]Drink read- at various venues in New York State while writing on local food, farmers, ing series in March. Nora has three including the Pember Library in and shell fisherman for the Falmouth spirits-related articles in the Drink Granville (almost in Vermont) and (MA) Enterprise. She has begun segment of www. Foodrepublic. com. the Millbrook Library New Paltz experimenting with salt*making, She continues in her role ascocktails Huguenot Historical Sociery and once a thriving industry on the and spirits columnist for the Kitchn the King Manor Historic Ffouse Cape. In New York, as Experimen- segment of www.apartrnenttherapy. Food Festival in Queens. Seehttp:// tal Cuisine Collaborative member, com. wwv/.peterrose.comfor her complete she participated in a project on schedule. She has recendy submit- "stretchy ice cream," a Tirrkish ice On March 30, Marion Nesde was ted her manuscript tided, Child.hood cream that's high in fiber, low in honored asthe year'sNational Public Pleasares:Dutch Child.ren in the Seu- fat, and can be stretched like tafii. Health Hero by the University of enteentbCentar!, to be published by The aim was to find a sustainable California School of Public Health SyracuseUniversity Pressin 2012. replacement for the endangered at Berkelev. Continued,on page 12 orchid root that gives the original

11 Member News myriad milk products;the Afghans, of salt, a lot of love, and just the right Continaedfrompage 11 fragrant breadsand tender kebabs; amount of self-destruction. Check it A book review by David Lin- the Persians,saffron-scented cream all out on www.cookinandjammin. coln Ross of The WgetnbleGarden andnut sauces,thickened with white com and margaretmedia.com. (Taschen,2011) recendy appeared poppy seeds.Villagers had their inThe Daily Benst.The reviewtided kitcherees-stewsof ginger-infused "VegetablesFit For A King" (htq:/ / lentils and basmatirice. Princeshad bit.lylelDUQ8), gives the histori- their goats stuffed with chickens, cal backgroundof the reproduction stuffed with partridge and costly of illustrationsby notablebotanical fruits, nuts and spices.All the pro- artists of the 1800sand originally ceedsfrom the book go to building commissionedby \tlmorin-Andrieux schoolsin Punjabvillages. ICe Ciearn & Cie, a Parisianseed company. In A Global Historl- a feature article about Armagnac Andrew F. Smith is scheduled louo B.I{6;s (http:/ /bit.ly ldQbLXs), posted on to teach three classesat the New TbeDnily Beastin February 2011, he School in June and July: "Drink- tracesthe history of France'soldest ing: Fifteen Beveragesthat Shaped brandyfrom Gascony. American History" "Professional Food Writing," and "FIow to Get a Valerie Saint-Rossy has a story CookbookPublished. " In September appearingin the spring 2011 issue he is scheduledto teach"American YIlf rD]fi],r 5[trft of Ed.ibleBrooklyn about food prepa- CulinaryHistory."He hascompleted .. ration for the annualGreek church two new bookswhich were released festival in June held in Brooklyn in April: StaruingtbeSouth: How the Ice Cream: A Global History by Heights. Nortb Wanth e Cia il War(St. Martin\) Laura B. Weiss (Reaktion Books) andPotato: A GlobalHistory (Reaktion was released in April. Ice Cream Books).He has completeda third takes readers on a lively journey book Junk Foodand. Fast Food:An around the globe, charting the Enryclopediaof Wat WeLoae to Eat development of the world's favorite scheduledfor publicationin Decem- dessert. From the American soda ber. For more information. visit his fountain to modern-day China, website:www.andrewfsmith.com ice cream is adored everywhere. Contact [email protected] Sandy Warren's culinary memoir, or Carrie Adams, University of Art BlakeyCookin' and Jammin' : Reci- Chicago Press, cadams@press. pes and Remembrances from nJazz Life uchicago.edu for review copies, or (Margaret Media, Inc.) is here and log on to www.foodandthings.com. receivingpraise from foodiesand jazz fansalike. Blakey, who died in 1990, was one of the greatestjazz dntm- mers in history. The book is a love storyentwined with 100or sorecipes from BlakeyandWarren's kitchens as The history of Punjabi food is the well asfrom hot plateson the road, topic of Menusand MemoriesFrom andis interspersedwith photosfrom Panjab:Meals to Nourish Bodyand the Blakey family album. Reviewer Soul by Veronica "Rani" Sidhu. ElsaHahne callsit a lovestory about Countlessinvaders left their culinary two peopletrylng to figure out how footprintsin that region:the Aryans, to balancea life togetherwith a pinch

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