©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1129 Almodóvar, Pedro 1038 Akrotiri (Santorini) 615 Alonnisos 639 Asklipieion (Kos) 630 Alpe di Siusi 788 Avebury Stone Circle 208 Alpirsbach 521 Brú na Bóinne 674 Alps (Bavarian) 500-3 Conimbriga 919 Alps (French) 374-81 Delos 608 Alsace 353-8 Delphi 596 Altea 1006 Empúries (Costa Brava) 987 Amalfi 820 Évora 915 Amalfi Coast 818-20 Hall of the Red Earl (Galway) Amalia, Anna 475 693 Ambleside 256 Herculaneum 816 Ireon (Samos) 633 A Amboise 363-4 A Coruña 1001 Ameland 880 Kamiros (Rhodes) 628 A Tramp Abroad 516 Amélie 427 Knossos (Crete) 620 Aachen 540-2 Amenábar, Alejandro 1039 Lindos (Rhodes) 628 Abd al Malik 427 Amiens 339-40 Mérida 1035 Abélard, Peter 316 Amrum 557 Mycenae 593 Aberdeen 279-81 Amsterdam 19, 851, 852-64, 853, Olympia 596 accommodation 1106-7, see 854, 856 Ostia Antica 759 also individual locations accommodation 858 Palatino (Rome) 731 Acconci, Vito 66 Canal Belt 853 Parco Archaeologico della Neapolis (Syracuse) 831 Acropolis (Athens) 575, 20 De Pijp 855-7, 863 Phaestos (Crete) 620 activities 30-3, 1108, see drinking 860 also individual activities entertainment 860-2 Pompeii 816, 27 Adams, Gerry 718 food 859-60 Pont du Gard (Nîmes) 393 Aegina 604 Jordaan 855 Rock of Cashel 682 Aeolian Islands 828-30 Museumplein 853-5 Roman Forum (Rome) 731, 12 Agia Roumeli 623, 624 Nieuwmarkt 857, 863 Skarkos (Ios) 613 Agiasos 637 Plantage 857 Stonehenge 209 Agios Georgios 625 Red Light District 852, 862 Teatro Greco (Taormina) 830 Agios Gordios 642 shopping 862-3 Terme di Caracalla (Rome) 746 Agios Nikitas 642 sights 852-7 Trier 528 Agios Nikolaos 625 tourist information 863 Vaison-la-Romaine 407 Agrigento 833 transport 863-4 Valley of the Temples (Agrigento) Ahn 149 An Eternity and One Day 649 833 Aínsa 991 Anavatos 634 Vézère Valley 384 air travel 25, 1115, 1116 Andorra 984, 985 Areopoli 595 Aix-en-Provence 401-3 Aneto 991 Argostoli 643 Ajaccio 422-3 Anglet 390 Arkadia 593 Albarracín 991 Annecy 377-9 Arles 406 Arnhem 876 Albert of Monaco 418 Antiparos 610, 609 Arp, Hans Jean 354 Alcaeus 648 Antwerp 102, 115-23, 118-19 Arroyo, Eduardo 942 Alcalá de Henares 960 Aonach Eagach (Glen Coe) 282-3 Arsac-en-Médoc 388 Alexandroupolis 601 Apollinaire 316 art 29, see also culture Alfonso VI of Spain 1036 Appel, Karel 855 Artà 1009 Algarve 909-14, 910 Appenzell 1088 artists, see individual artists Algeciras 1029 Appenzellerland 1088 Assisi 807-8 Alghero 836-7 Appian Way, the (Rome) 751 Assmannhausen 526 Alhambra (Granada) 16, 938, 1022, 16 apple-wine 533 Asturias 997-8 Alicante 1005-6 Aragón 989-91 Athani 642 Alkmaar 864 Aran Islands 661, 697-9 Athens 571-87, , Allihies 685 Aranjuez 960 572-3 580 accommodation 578-81 Alloway 262-3 Arc de Triomphe () 313 drinking 583 Arçais 386 entertainment 583-5 archaeological sites & ruins food 581-3 000 Map pages Acrocorinth 591 history 574-5 000 Photo pages Acropolis (Athens) 575-6, 20 1130 Athens continued Baptistère St-Jean (Poitiers) 387 Belgium 17, 38, 99-155, 102-3 itineraries 575-658 Barceló, Miquel 973, 1007 accommodation 99, 152 safety 585 Barcelona 969-85, 970-1, 974-5 activities 152 shopping 585 accommodation 978-80 basics 99-100 sights 575-7, 578 drinking 982-3 budgeting 100 tourist information 586 entertainment 983 climate 99 tours 577 food 980-2 culture 150-1 travel to/from 586 shopping 984 drinking 100, 151-2 IN travel within 586-7 sights 969-78 embassies & consulates 153 DEX ATMs 1111 tourist information 984-5 food 99, 100, 151-2, 153 Attersee 80 tours 978 highlights 102

A-B Auden, WH 223 travel to/from 985 history 149-50 Augsburg 505 travel within 985 holidays 153 Austen, Jane 166, 207, 212, 289 Barcelos 928 internet resources 100 Austria 38, 44-98, 46-7 Bardem, Javier 1039 itineraries 100 accommodation 44, 93-4, 95 Bari 821-2 language 150 activities 94 bars 27, see also drinking opening hours 153 architecture 92 Basel 1085-7 travel to/from 100, 153-5 arts 92 Basque Country 991-5 travel within 155-6 basics 44-5 Bastia 419-21 Bellini, Giovanni 422, 774 budgeting 45, 55 Bastogne 139-40 Bellinzona 1089 climate 44 Bath 18, 160, 210-14, 210 Ben Nevis 283 drinking 45, 92-3 Baudelaire, Charles 427 Benidorm 1006 embassies 94 Bauhaus School 452, 480, 561 Bentley, John Francis 167 food 44-5, 92-3, 94 Bavaria 489-512 Berchtesgaden 502-3 highlights 46-7 Bavarian Alps 500-3 Berdorf 149 history 91-2 Bayeux 342-3 Bergen 139 holidays 95 beaches 27 Bergen-Belsen 545 itineraries 45 Britain 220 Berlenga Grande 917 money 94-5 390, 410, 415 Berlin 441-64, 444, 446-7 resources 45 Greece 629, 642 accommodation 455-8 telephone services 95 Netherlands 868 Charlottenburg 453-5, 457-8, tourist information 96 Portugal 907, 927 459, 454 travel to/from 45, 96 Spain 992, 1012 drinking 459-60 travel within 97-8 Beara Peninsula 685 entertainment 460-2 visas 96 Beatles, the 251, 252, 253 Friedrichshain 452-3, 457, 458-9, Avignon 403-6, 404-5 Beaton, Cecil 853 450-1 Ávila 960-1 Beaufort 148 history 441-4 Beaune 366-8 itineraries 441 Becket, Thomas 202, 286 Kreuzberg 452-3, 457, 458-9, B 450-1 Bach, Johann Sebastian 472, 477, 561 Beckett, Samuel 666, 719 Mitte 455-7, 458 Bacharach 526-7 Beckmann, Max 473 Potsdamer Platz 450-2 Bacon, Francis 167, 193, 231 Beddgelert 261 Prenzlauer Berg 455-7, 458 Bad Ischl 77-8 Beefeaters 173 Reichstag 444-8 Baden-Baden 518-19 beer 26, 137, 151, 497, 562, 855, see also breweries Scheunenviertel 448-50 Badron Gorge 593 Beethoven, Ludwig van 54, 58, shopping 462-3 Baleal 917 538, 561 sights 444-55 Balearic Islands 1006-13 Before Sunset 327 tourist information 463 Ballycastle 712 Beilstein 528 travel to/from 463 Baltimore 684 Belfast 703-12, 704-5 travel within 463-7 Balzac 316 accommodation 708-9 Berlin Wall 14, 450 Bamberg 442, 510-11 drinking 710-11 Berlusconi, Silvio 839 Banksy 214 entertainment 711 Bern 1052, 1066-70 Bannockburn 278 food 709-10 Bernard, Emile 854 sights 706-8 Bernese Oberland 1071-8 000 Map pages travel to/from 711 Bernhardt, Sarah 316 000 Photo pages travel within 712 Bernina Pass 1053 1131 Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 740, 741 Brighton 160, 203-6 Buckingham Palace (London) 169 Bernkastel-Kues 528 Bristol 214-98 budgeting 24 Besançon 381-2 Britain 39, 157-298, 160-1 Bundoran 702 Betjeman, Sir John 224 accommodation 291-3 bungee jumping 1073, 1076 Betwys-y-Coed 261 activities 293 Buoninsegna, Duccio di 802 Beuvron-en-Auge 340 basics 157-8 Burano 775 Beuys, Joseph 539, 561 budgeting 158 Buren, Daniel 385 Biarritz 390-1 climate 157 Burg Eltz 528 IN Big Ben (London) 167 culture 289-90 Burgos 966 DEX Bilbao 994-5 drinking 158, 291 Burgundy 364-74 Binz 488 Burns, Robert 262, 271 embassies & consulates Birmingham 230 294 Burren, the 692-3 B-C Bizet, Georges 427 food 157, 158, 291, 294 bus travel 24, 1117 Black Forest 442, 519-22, 520 highlights 160-1 Bushmills 713 Blair, Tony 288 history 286 business hours 1108, see Blake, William 167 holidays 295 also individual countries Blarney 682 itineraries 158 Byron, Lord 231, 907, 1063 Blois 359-60 language 294 BMW 494 money 294 C boat travel 25, 1108, 1115-16, 1117 opening hours 293 Cabo da Roca 909 Boca do Inferno 909 population 289 Cabo de São Vicente 914 Bodensee see Lake Constance religion 289 Cabo Espichel 908 Boleyn, Anne 173 resources 158 Cabo Ortegal 1001 Bologna 729, 784-6 telephone services 295 Cabot, John 214 Bolzano 788 time 295 Cabril 929 Bon Voyage 427 tourist information 296 Cáceres 1034-5 Bonifacio 423-4 travel to/from 158, 296-7 Cadaqués 987, 988 Bonn 538 travel within 297-8 Cádiz 1030 Bonvicini, Monica 561 visas 296 Caesar, Julius 838 books, see individual writers and Brittany 345-50 cafes 27, see also drinking works Brittas Bay 674 Cage, John 973 Boppard 526 Broadway (Britain) 227 Cagliari 834-6 Bosch, Hieronymus 871, 881, 884 Brockenbahn 483 Caherciveen 689 Botticelli, Sandro 313, 422, 467, 493, Brontë, Anne 236 Caherdaniel 688 532, 741, 789, 793 Brontë, Charlotte 166, 236 Cala Gonone 836 Bouillon 138 Brossa, Joan 973 Calais 338-9 Bordeaux 387-9 Brown, Gordon 288 Caldas de Monchique 913 Bourscheid 148 Brú na Bóinne 674 Calella de Palafrugell 987 Bouzianis, George 649 Bruegel the Elder, Pieter 49, 101, 740, Calpe 1006 Bowness 256 871, 937 Calvi 421 Braga 928-9 Bruges 102, 128-35, 130 Calvin and Hobbes 553 Brahms, Johannes 54, 58, 561 Bruna, Dick 877 Cambremer 340 Braille, Louis 308 Brunelleschi, Filippo 789 Cambridge 231-4 Braque, Georges 328, 428, 774 Bruni, Carla 426 Cameron, David 288 Braveheart 278 Brusselmans, Jean 151 campervans 1117 Brecht, Bertolt 445 Brussels 101-15, 102, 104-5, 6 Camus, Albert 427 Bregenz 90-1 accommodation 109-10 Canaletto 169, 379, 764, 937 Bregenzerwald 90 drinking 112-13 Canazei 788 Bremen 547-8 entertainment 113-14 Cancale 347 Breughel the Younger, Pieter 125, 151 food 110-12 Cannes 412-14 breweries 108, 116 shopping 114 Cantabria 997 Abdij St-Sixtus (Westvleteren) 137 sights 101-9 Canterbury 201-3 Alpirsbacher Klosterbräu 521 tourist information 114 Cap de Creus 988 Beck’s Brewery (Bremen) 547 travel to/from 114 Cap de Formentor 1009 Brouwerij De Halve Maan (Bruges) travel within 114-5 Cape Keri 645 129 Buçaco Forest 920-1 Capel Curig 261 Guinness Storehouse (Dublin) 663 Buchenwald 475 Capri 815-17 Heineken Experience (Amsterdam) Buchs 1093 855 car travel 25, 1117-19 1132 Caravaggio, Michelangelo Merisi da Chatsworth House (Peak District) cell phones 1114 49, 340, 356, 740, 741, 793 231 Celle 544-5 Carcassonne 394 Citadelle de Besançon 381 CERN (Geneva) 1056 Cardiff 257-9 Coca Castle (Castilla y León) 961 Cézanne, Paul 49, 267, 307, 328, 401, Carinthia 66 Conwy Castle 262 402, 404, 428, 493, 532, 744, 1071 Carlos III of Spain 937 Dover Castle 203 Chagall, Marc 314, 379, 385, 409, 527, Carlos IV of Spain 1037 Edinburgh Castle 265 543, 636 Carnac 302, 345 Hampton Court Palace (London) Chamonix 21, 374-7, 375-7 IN Carpaccio, Vittore 774 185 champagne 350, 351, 352 DEX Carracci, Annibale 740 Harewood House (Leeds) 236 Champagne 17, 350-3 Carrantuohil 686, 687 Hofburg (Innsbruck) 81 Charlemagne 424

C Carrère, Emmanuel 427 Hofburg (Vienna) 48 Charles VII 343, 350, 424 Carrick-a-Rede 712 Kaiserburg (Nuremberg) 508 Charles VIII 363 Carroll, Lewis 223 Kensington Palace (London) 177 Charles, HRH Prince 231 Cartier-Bresson, Henri 853 Kilkenny Castle 676 Chartres 334-5 Casais do Baleal 917 Leeds Castle 204 Chateaubriand, François-René 347 Cascais 909 Malahide Castle 673 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 410 Cashel 682 Palace of Holyroodhouse Chaucer, Geoffrey 166, 193 Casino de Monte Carlo 416 (Edinburgh) 267 cheese 344, 353, 864, 869, 1098 Cassis 396 Palácio Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 916 Chester 250-1 Castilla y León 960-6 Palacio Real (Madrid) 942 children, travel with 1109 Castilla-La Mancha 966-9 Palaio Frourio (Corfu) 641 Chillida, Eduardo 942, 992, 994, 1039 castles, fortresses & palaces 26 Palais des Papes (Avignon) 403 Chinchón 960 Alcázar (Segovia) 963 Palais du Tau (Reims) 350 Chios 633-5 Alhambra (Granada) 16, 938, Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte Chipping Campden 227 (Naples) 812 1022, 16 Chirac, Jacques 426 Pedraza de la Sierra (Castilla y Aljafería (Zaragoza) 990 Chocolat 427 Leon) 961 Blarney Castle 682 chocolate 152 Peñafiel (Castilla y León) 961 Blenheim Palace (Woodstock) 226 Belgium 129 Ponferrada (Castilla y León) 961 Bouillon Castle 138 Germany 536 Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra) 907 Burg Eltz 527 Switzerland 1090, 1098 Residenz (Munich) 492 Caerphilly Castle (Cardiff) 259 Chopin 316 Residenz (Würzburg) 506 Cardiff Castle 257 Christmas markets 33 Residenzschloss (Dresden) 466 Castell Coch 260 354 Schloss (Heidelberg) 516 Castle Howard (York) 243 Nuremberg 508 Schloss Belvedere (Vienna) 53, 17 Château d’Azay-le-Rideau Vienna 55, 61 Schloss Charlottenburg (Berlin) (Loire Valley) 362 churches & cathedrals, see also 453 Château d’If (Marseille) 396 convents & monasteries, Schloss Eggenberg (Graz) 66 Château de Bourscheid mosques, synagogues (Luxembourg) 148 Schloss Hellbrunn 76 Aachener Dom (Aachen) 541 Château de Chambord Schloss Hohenschwangau (Füssen) Abbaye de Jumièges 343 504 (Loire Valley) 360 Bamberger Dom (Bamberg) 510 Schloss Neuschwanstein (Füssen) Château de Chaumont Basílica de Nuestra Señora del 504 (Loire Valley) 361 Pilar (Zaragoza) 990 Schloss Nymphenburg (Munich) Château de Chenonceau Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi) 494 (Loire Valley) 362 807 Schloss Schönbrunn (Vienna) 49 Château de Cheverny Basilica di San Lorenzo (Florence) (Loire Valley) 360 Stirling Castle 278 793 Château de Chillon (Montreux) Tower of London 172 Basilica di San Marco (Venice) 773 1063 Vaduz Castle (Liechtenstein) 1092 Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli Château de Gruyères 1064 Vianden Castle 147 (Rome) 745 Château de Versailles (Paris) 333-4 Wartburg Castle (Eisenach) 477 Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 822 Château de Villandry (Loire Valley) Warwick Castle 230 Basilique St-Rémi (Reims) 350 362 Windsor Castle 200 Canterbury Cathedral 201 Château Royal de Blois Castletownbere 685 Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua) (Loire Valley) 359 Catalonia 969-89 771 cathedrals see churches & cathedrals Catedral (Burgos) 966 000 Map pages Causeway Coast 15, 712 Catedral (León) 965 000 Photo pages caves 79, 138 Catedral (Palma de Mallorca) 1007 1133 Catedral (Toledo) 967 Rosslyn Chapel (Edinburgh) 269 Agias Varvaras Rousanou Catedral de Santiago de Salisbury Cathedral 208 (Meteora) 597 Compostela 998 Shrewsbury Abbey 228 Agiou Nikolaou Anapafsa (Meteora) Cathedral & Giralda (Seville) 1013 Sistine Chapel (Rome) 739 597 Cathédrale de Notre Dame de St Paul’s Cathedral (London) 169 Agiou Stefanou (Meteora) 597 Paris 309 St Peter’s Basilica (Rome) 738 Begijnhof (Bruges) 129 Cathédrale St-Étienne (Metz) 357 St-Baafskathedraal (Ghent) 124 Convento de las Descalzas Reales (Madrid) 943 Cathédrale Notre Dame (Amiens) Ste-Chapelle (Paris) 309

339 Megalou Meteorou (Meteora) 597 IN Stephansdom (Vienna) 49

Cathédrale Notre Dame (Chartres) Monasterio San Juan de los Reyes DEX 335-6 Wells Cathedral 217 (Toledo) 967 Westminster Abbey (London) 166

Cathédrale Notre Dame (Reims) Monastery of St John the C 350 Westminster Cathedral (London) Theologian (Patmos) 631 Cathédrale Notre Dame (Tournai) 167 Monestir de Montserrat 986 137 Winchester Cathedral 206 St Michael’s Mount (Penzance) 222 Cathédrale Notre-Dame York Minster 238 Stift Melk 64 (Strasbourg) 354 Churchill, Winston 167 Varlaam (Meteora) 597 Cathédrale St-André (Bordeaux) cider 340 Conwy 262 387 Cinema Paradiso 840 Coo 138 Cathédrale St-Bénigne (Dijon) 365 cinemas Cook, Captain James 288 Cattedrale di Monreale (Palermo) Austria 60 Córdoba 1019-22, 1020 828 Belgium 113, 123 Corfu 639-42, 640 Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore Britain 196 (Florence) 789 Corfu Town 640-1 Greece 585, 637 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo Corinth 590-1 Ireland 671, 711 (Rome) 741 Cork 678-92, 680-1 Italy 798 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute Corot, Jean-Baptiste-Camille 313 Luxembourg 145 (Venice) 775 Corsica 419-24 Portugal 905 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli Cortina d’Ampezzo 788 Cinque Terre 762-3 Domtoren (Utrecht) 877 Costa Blanca 1006 Ciutadella 1012 Duomo (Florence) 789 Costa Brava 987-8 Claus, Emile 125 Duomo (Milan) 766 Costa da Caparica 907 Claus, Hugo 150 Duomo (Pisa) 799 Costa da Morte 1001 Clear Island 684 Duomo (Siena) 801 Costa de Almería 1025-6 Clervaux 148 Durham Cathedral 243 Côte d’Opale 338 Clifden 700 Église St-Sulpice (Paris) 309 Cotswolds 160, 226-8 Cliffs of Moher 693 Ely Cathedral 234 Coulon 386 climate 24, see also individual Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida Count of Monte Cristo, The 397 (Madrid) 943 countries County Wicklow 674-5 Exeter Cathedral 218 climate change 1115 Cranach the Elder, Lucas 81, 493, 560 Frauenkirche (Dresden) 466 Clinton, Bill 226, 260, 518 credit cards 1112 Heilig-Bloedbasiliek (Bruges) 128 Clovis 350 Crete 617-25, 618-19 Kaisergruft (Vienna) 49 Cobh 683 Crown Jewels (London) 173 King’s College Chapel (Cambridge) Coimbra 891, 919-20 232 Colette 316 Cruz, Penélope 1039 Kölner Dom (Cologne) 536 Cologne 442, 535-9 cuckoo-clocks 521 La Catedral (Barcelona) 972 Colosseum (Rome) 730 Cuenca 969 La Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 23, Columbus, Christopher 760, 972, Cuillin Hills 284 938, 976, 23 1014, 1037 culture, see individual countries Marienkirche (Rostock) 486 comic strips 108 Cunard 253 Melrose Abbey 263 concert halls, see theatres & concert Curie, Marie 308 Mezquita (Cordoba) 938 halls currency 1111 Münster (Constance) 524 Conimbriga 919 Cushendall 712 Münster (Freiburg im Breisgau) Connemara 699-700 Cushendun 712 522 Conrad, Joseph 202 customs regulations 1109 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal Constable, John 167, 232, 267 Cyclades 605-17 (Antwerp) 115 Constance 524-5 cycling 25, 1108, 1116-17 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Bruges) consulates 1109-10, see Austria 63, 68, 86, 90, 97 129 also individual countries Belgium 114, 152, 155 Pantheon (Rome) 739 convents & monasteries Britain 220, 231, 236, 293 Rievaulx Abbey (Helmsley) 243 Agias Triados (Meteora) 597 France 316, 338, 358, 378, 436 1134 cycling continued Derrygimla 700 Durham 243-4 Germany 566 Dessau-Rosslau 480 Dürnstein 64 Greece 656 d’Estaing, Valéry Giscard 426 Dürrenmatt, Friedrich 1097 Ireland 724 Deventer 880 Dursey Island 685 Italy 847 Diakofto 590 Düsseldorf 539-40 Liechtenstein 1093 diamonds 117 Dutch (language) 1123 Luxembourg 149, 155 Diana, Princess of Wales 177 Dutch East India Company 883 Netherlands 18, 887 Dickens, Charles 166, 174, 193, 289 IN Portugal 896, 907, 909, 929, 934 Diekirch 148 DEX E Spain 1047 Digne-les-Bains 412 Ebensee 80 Switzerland 1072, 1073, 1088, 1103 Dijon 364-6

C-E Echternach 147-8 Cyrano de Bergerac 427 Dilofo 603 Edam 876 Dimitsana 593 Eden Project 221 Dingle Peninsula 690-1 D Edinburgh 22, 161, 263-71, 264-5 Dingle Town 690-1 da Vinci, Leonardo 49, 181, 232, 313, accommodation 268-9 disabilities, travellers with 564, 654, 360, 363, 766, 789 drinking 270 723, 845 Da Vinci Code, The 269, 309 entertainment 270 Disneyland Resort Paris 333 Dachau 500 sights 265-7 diving 828, 914, 917, 987 Dalí, Salvador 204, 274, 493, 514, 871, tourist information 270 937, 942, 986, 1039, 1068 Dix, Otto 451, 560 tours 268 Damme 135 Doctor Who 258 travel to/from 270-1 Dante Alighieri 787, 839 Dodecanese 625-32 Edward I of England 287 Danube Valley 47, 63-6 Dogtooth 649 Edward V of England 166, 173 Dark Ages 286 Dolomites 788 Edward VI of England 287 Dartmoor 220 Donatello 793, 801 Edward VIII of England 166 Das Kapital 529 Donegal 702-3 Edward the Black Prince 201 David I 263 Doolin 692 Edward the Confessor 166, 286 D-Day Beaches 343-4 Dordogne 382-4 Eiffel Tower (Paris) 10, 301-6, 11 de Beauvoir, Simone 427 Dordrecht 874, 876 Einstein, Albert 223, 1067, 1095 de Chirico, Giorgio 744 Dover 203 Eisenach 477 de Echevarria, Juan 994 Doyle, Roddy 719 El Greco 267, 493, 649, 937, 943, 944, Drake, Francis 287 de Gaulle, Charles 426 967, 1039 Dresden 443, 466-71, de Kooning, Willem 855 468 electricity 1109 drinking, see individual locations de Oteiza, Jorge 994 Elies 596 driving, see car travel de Ribera, José 944 Eliot, TS 224 de Saint Phalle, Niki 542, 543 Dublin 20, 661, 662-73, 664-5 Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi) 48, 49 de Zurbarán, Francisco 944 accommodation 667-9 Elizabeth I of England 287 Debussy, Claude 428 drinking 670-1 Elizabeth II of England 169 Degas, Edgar 307, 314, 317, 404, entertainment 671-2 Ely 234 428, 493 food 669-70 Elytis, Odysseus 648 Deià 1009, 1009-10 itineraries 662 embassies 1109-10, see del Ponte, Giovanni 232 sights 662-7 also individual countries Delacroix, Eugène 309, 313, 316, tourist information 672 Emin, Tracey 167 341, 381 tours 667 England, see Britain Delanoë, Bertrand 301 travel to/from 672 Enkhuizen 876 Delémont 1086 travel within 673 Enniskillen 715-16 Delft 851, 870-1 Duchamp, Marcel 871 Ensor, James 151 della Francesca, Piero 789 Dumas, Alexandre 317, 397 entertainment, see individual Delos 608 Dun Laoghaire 673 locations Delphi 596-7 Duncan, Isadora 316 Entrevaux 412 Delvaux 128 Duncansby Head 285 Épernay 351-3, 352-3 Den Bosch 881 Dune du Pilat 390 Epidavros 593 Den Haag 851, 867-9 Dunmore Head 691 Erasmus 108 Derry 713-15 Dunnet Head 285 Erfurt 477-9 Dunquin 691 Ermida 929 Durbuy 138 Ernst, Max 560, 1085 000 Map pages Dürer, Albrecht 49, 381, 451, 466, 467, Escher, MC 884 000 Photo pages 493, 509, 532, 560, 937 Esch-sur-Alzette 145 1135 Estoril 909 Festa del Redentore (Venice) 776 Regata Storica (Venice) 776 Estremoz 916 Festa de’Noantri (Rome) 747 ReMap (Athens) 578 Eton 200-1 Festa di San Gennaro (Naples) 812 Riesling du Monde (Strasbourg) Ettelbrück 148 Festa di San Giovanni (Florence) 354 Eurail passes 1122 794 RomaEuropa (Rome) 747 events 30-3, see also festivals & Festa di Sant’Efisio (Cagliari) 835 Sanfermines (Pamplona) 996 events Festas de Lisboa (Lisbon) 896 Scoppio del Carro (Florence) 794 Évora 914-16 Festes de la Mercè (Barcelona) 978 Sechseläuten (Zürich) 1079 Exeter 218-19 Festival at Queen’s (Belfast) 708 Semana Santa (Seville) 1014 IN Extremadura 1033-6 Festival d’Avignon 405 Serralves Em Festa (Porto) 924 DEX Festival Off (Avignon) 405 Settimana della Cultura

Fête des Lumières (Lyon) 369 (Rome) 746 E-F F Sprinprozession (Echternach) 148 Fabre, Jan 151 Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre (Paris) 317 Stow Horse Fair 227 fado 904 Fêtes de Genève (Geneva) 1057 Street Parade (Zürich) 1079 Faro 911 Fiesta de San Isidro (Madrid) 944 Suma Flamenca (Madrid) 945 Faust 475 Formula One Grand Prix (Monaco) Titanic Belfast Festival 708 Favret, Eric 375 418 Trooping the Colour (London) 186 Feldkirch 1093 Galway Arts Festival 695 University Boat Race (London) 186 Ferdinand, Archduke Franz 91 Galway Oyster Festival 695 Venice Architecture Biennale 776 ferries, see boat travel Gay Pride (Brighton) 204 Venice Biennale 776 festivals & events 30-3, see also film Gentse Feesten (Ghent) 123 festivals, music festivals Veranos de la Villa (Madrid) 945 Glastonbury Festival 219 Art-Athina (Athens) 578 West End Festival (Glasgow) 274 Guinness Jazz Festival (Cork) 679 Athens Biennial (Athens) 578 Wexford Festival Fringe 675 Hay Festival (Hay-on-Wye) 260 Bienal de Flamenco (Seville) 1015 Wexford Opera Festival 675 Hellenic Festival (Athens) 578 Boardmasters (Newquay) 220 Wiener Festwochen (Vienna) 54 Jazz Marathon (Brussels) 151 Bregenzer Festspiele (Bregenz) 90 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Jodler Fest Luzern (Lucerne) 1072 Championships (London) 186 Brighton Festival 204 Kilkenny Arts Festival 677 Fiennes, Sir Ranulph 201 Carnaval (Maastricht) 30, 881 Las Fallas de San José (Valencia) Figueirinha 908 Carnaval de Nice 410 1005 film festivals Carnevale (Venice) 30, 776 Lehár Festival (Bad Ischl) 77 Belfast Film Festival 708, 711 Carnival (Cologne) 535 London Marathon 186 Berlin International Film Festival Cathedral Quarter Arts Festival Maggio dei Monumenti (Naples) 450 (Belfast) 708 814 Cork Film Festival 679 Celtic Connections (Glasgow) 274 Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Festival de Cannes 413 Comic-Strip Festival (Brussels) 108 (Florence) 794 Festival Internazionale del Film di Dia de Sant Joan (Barcelona) 978 Mercado Medieval (Óbidos) 918 Roma 747 Dolomitenlauf (Lienz) 89 Mondial de la Bière (Strasbourg) Musikfilm Festival (Vienna) 54 Domstufen-Festspiele (Erfurt) 477 354 Venice Film Festival 776 Ducasse (Mons) 139 Monsaraz Museu Aberto 916 Filoti 611 Edinburgh Festival Fringe 268 Natale di Roma (Rome) 746 fine dining 28, see also food Edinburgh International Festival Nice Jazz Festival 410 Fira 614 32, 268 Notting Hill Carnival (London) Firenze, see Florence Edinburgh Military Tattoo 268 32, 186 Fiskardo 643 Escalade (Geneva) 1057 Nuit Blanche (Paris) 317 flamenco 938, 955-6, 1014, 1018, Estate Romana (Rome) 746 Oktoberfest (Munich) 16, 32, 442, 1024, 1039-40 493, 494 Fashion Week (Paris) 316 Flanders (Belgium) 115-137 Opernball (Vienna) 54 Fasnacht (Lucerne) 1072 Flanders (France) 335-40 Palio (Siena) 802 Féile An Phobail (Belfast) 708 Flaubert, Gustave 427 Palio delle Quattro Antiche Feria de Abril (Seville) 1015 Fleming, Ian 201 Féria de Pentecôte (Nîmes) 392 Repubbliche Marinare (Venice) 776 Flims-Laax 1091-2 Féria des Vendanges (Nîmes) 392 Paris Plages 317 Florence 729, 788-99, 790-1 Festa de Nossa Senhora da Agonia accommodation 794-6 (Viana do Castelo) 927 Patras Carnival 589 drinking 797 Festa de Santo António (Lisbon) Pride (London) 186 896 Procession Eucharistique entertainment 798 Festa de São João (Porto) 924 (Lourdes) 389 food 796-7 Festa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo Queima das Fitas (Coimbra) 919 history 788 (Rome) 747 Ravenna Festival 786 sights 788-93 1136 Florence continued Freud, Sigmund 54 travel to/from 1059 tourist information 798 Freudenstadt 521 travel within 1060 tours 794 Friedrich I of Germany 441 Genoa 760-2 travel to/from 798 Friedrich, Caspar David 467, 488, George II of Greece 647 travel within 798-9 493, 560 George III of England 177 Flowers of Evil, The 427 Friedrichshöhe 483 Géricault, Théodore 313 Föhr 557 Friel, Brian 719 German (language) 1124 Fóia 913 Friesland 880 Germany 39, 439-568, 442-3 IN food 27, see also individual countries Frikes 644 accommodation 439, 562-3 DEX football 248, 498, 769, 862 Frisch, Max 1097 basics 439-40 Fornalutx 1009 Frisian Islands 880 climate 439 F-G Fornells 1012 Frost, Terry 221 culture 560-1 Forster, EM 180 Füssen 504-5 drinking 440, 561-2 Fort William 283-4 embassies & consulates 563 fortresses, see castles, fortresses G food 439, 440, 458-9, 561-2 & palaces Gabo, Naum 221 highlights 442-3 Fournier, Colin 66 Gaddi, Agnolo 792 history 558 Fra Angelico 793, 937, 1068 Gainsborough 167, 232, 267 itineraries 440 Fra Bartolomeo 422 Gainsborough, Thomas 451, 937 money 440, 564 Fragonard, Jean-Honoré 313 Gainsbourg, Serge 428 opening hours 563 France 39, 299-438, 302-3 Galapo 908 public holidays 564 accommodation 299, 430 Galeries St-Hubert (Brussels) 101 resources 440 activities 431 Galicia 998-1000 telephone services 564 basics 299-300 Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence) 789 travel to/from 440, 565-6 climate 299 Galway 661, 693-7, 694-5 travel within 566-8 culture 426-8 Gambier, Thomas 234 visas 564 drinking 429-30 Gap of Dunloe 661, 686 Gerolimenas 595 embassies & consulates 432 gardens see parks & gardens Ghent 123-8 environment 428-9 Gargallo, Pablo 942 Giacometti, Alberto 402, 1079 food 299-300, 429-30, 432 Garmisch-Partenkirchen 500-1 Giambologna 792 highlights 302 Garnier, Charles 314 Giant’s Causeway 15, 661, 712-13 hiking 380 Gateshead 245 Gibberd, Sir Frederick 252 history 424-6 Gaudí, Antoni 965, 976, 977, 1007 Gibraltar 1032-3 holidays 433 Gauguin, Paul 267, 428, 854 Giger, HR 1064 language 432-3 Gavalda, Anna 427 Gimmelwald 1078 money 300 gay & lesbian travellers 1110 Giorgione 774 opening hours 431-2 Belgium 113, 122 Giotto 771 planning 299-300 Britain 186, 195, 206, 294 Girona 986-7 resources 300 France 329, 432 Giverny 342 skiing 380 Germany 461, 498, 563 glaciers 375, 1065, 1097 telephone services 433-4 Greece 635, 652 Glasgow 271-7, 272-3 toilets 434 Ireland 722 Glastonbury 219 travel to/from 434-5 Italy 844 Glen Coe 282-3 travel within 436-8 Netherlands 861 Glenariff 712 visas 434 Spain 955, 1042 Glencairn 685 Franck, César 427 Switzerland 1101 Glencolumbcille 702-3 Franco, General Francisco 1037 Gefyra 594 Glendalough 674-5 François I of France 425 Gehry, Frank 539 Glengarriff 685 Frank, Anne 853 gelato 753, 797 Glens of Antrim 712 Frankfurt-am-Main 529-35, 530-1 Geneva 1051-60, 1052, 1054-5 Gmunden 80 Franz Josef I 48, 77, 91 accommodation 1057-8 Godefroid de Bouillon 106 Freiburg im Breisgay 522-3 drinking 1058-9 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von 472, French (language) 1123-4 entertainment 1058-9 473, 475, 516, 532 Freud, Lucian 167, 193 food 1058 Goldsworthy, Andy 236 itineraries 1051 González, Julio 1007 shopping 1059 Goslar 482 000 Map pages sights 1051-7 Gouda 869 Photo pages 000 tourist information 1059 Gounod, Charles 427 1137 Gouveia 921 Hag’s Glen 687 historical buildings & monuments 26 Goya, Francisco 381, 937, 943, 944, Hague, The, see Den Haag Acropolis (Athens) 575, 20 967, 990, 1039 Haider, Jörg 92 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 853 Granada 16, 1022-5, 1024-5 Halki 612 Arc de Triomphe (Paris) 313 Grand Canal (Venice) 773 Halkidiki 601 Bannockburn (Stirling) 278 Grand Place (Brussels) 101, 7 Hallstatt 78-9 Berlin Wall 14, 446, 450, 452, Grasmere 256-7 Hals, Frans 884 Big Ben (London) 167 Grasse 413 Hamburg 443, 548-54, 550-1 Bocca della Verità (Rome) 735 IN Graubünden 1091-4 Hamelin 545-8 Bodleian Library (Oxford) 224 DEX Graves, Robert 1009 Handel 166 Brandenburger Tor (Berlin) 445 Graz 66-8

Händel, Georg Friedrich 561 Buckingham Palace (London) 169 G-H Greece 20, 22, 39, 569-658, 571 Hania 621-2 Casa Amatller (Barcelona) 977 accommodation 569, 651-2 Hanover 542-4 Casa Batlló (Barcelona) 977 basics 569-70 Han-sur-Lesse 138 Casa di Giulietta (Verona) 770 climate 569 Hardy 166 Checkpoint Charlie (Berlin) 446 culture 648-9 Harrods (London) 197 Chester Beatty Library (Dublin) drinking 570, 650-1 Harz Mountains 482-3 667 embassies & consulates 652 Harzquerbahn 483 Christ Church College (Oxford) 223 environment 649-50 Haworth 236-7 Cinquantenaire (Brussels) 107 food 569, 570, 650-1 Haydn, Joseph 92 Colosseum (Rome) 730 highlights 571 Hay-on-Wye 260 Conciergerie (Paris) 309 history 646-8 health 1110 Corpus Christi College itineraries 570 Healy Pass 685 (Cambridge) 232 money 570, 653 Heaney, Seamus 224, 719 Dante’s Tomb (Ravenna) 787 opening hours 652 Heathrow Airport 199 Dove Cottage (Grasmere) 256 public holidays 653 Heckel, Erich 560 Eagle’s Nest (Berchtesgaden) 502 resources 570 Heidelberg 516-18 Eiffel Tower (Paris) 10, 301-6, 11 telephone services 653 Heiligenblut 89 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan) 766 tourist information 654 Héloïse d’Argenteuil 316 Glasgow School of Art 271 travel to/from 570, 654-5 Hemingway, Ernest 995 Grand Place (Brussels) 101, travel with 656-8 Henri IV of France 307 7 Hitler’s Bunker (Berlin) 445 visas 654 Henry II of England 286 Hofbräuhaus (Munich) 492 Greek (language) 1124 Henry IV of England 287 Holocaust Memorial (Berlin) 445 Green Venice 386 Henry VI of England 232, 424 Hôtel des Invalides (Paris) 308 Grenoble 379-81 Henry VII of England 287 Houses of Parliament (London) 167 Grevenmacher 149 Henry VIII of England 173, 185, 232, Grindelwald 1076-7 250 La Pedrera (Barcelona) 976 Gris, Juan 942 Hepworth, Barbara 167, 221, 236 Leaning Tower of Pisa 799 Groningen 880 Herculaneum 816 Les Catacombes (Paris) 307 Gropius, Walter 480, 561 Hergé 108, 360 London Eye 175 Grossglockner 89 Heron, Patrick 221 Manneken Pis (Brussels) 101 Grossglockner Road 89 Hesse 529-35 Memorium Nuremberg Trials 508 Grosz, George 451, 560 hiking 1108 Metropol Parasol (Seville) 1014 Grütschalp 1077 Austria 81, 86, 88, 89 Morbihan Megaliths (Carnac) 345 Gruyères 1063-4 Britain 220, 231, 236, 260, 262, National Wallace Monument (Stirling) 278 Gryon 1063 293 Panthéon (Paris) 308 Guarda 921 France 338, 422 Parthenon (Athens) 575 Guène, Faïza 427 Greece 596, 603 Piazza dei Miracoli (Pisa) 799 Guernica 937, 1039 Ireland 675, 687, 688, 690, 703 Piazza San Marco (Venice) 774 Guimarães 928 Liechtenstein 1093 Piccadilly Circus (London) 163 Günterstal 522 Luxembourg 149 Plaça Reial (Barcelona) 972 Gythio 594-5 Portugal 929 Spain 1042 Place de la Bastille (Paris) 315 Switzerland 1064, 1065, 1077, Plaza Mayor (Madrid) 942 H 1078, 1088 Plaza Mayor (Salamanca) 961 Haarlem 864-6 Hindeloopen 880 Pont Neuf (Paris) 309 Habsburg empire 48 Hippocrates 629 Pont St-Bénézet (Avignon) 403 Hadrian 759 hire (car) 1118 Pont St-Louis (Paris) 309 Hadrian’s Wall 160, 246-7 Ponte dei Sospiri (Venice) 774 1138 historical buildings & monuments Hogarth 167 drinking 660, 720 continued Hohe Tauern National Park 89-90 embassies & consulates 721 Real Mary King’s Close (Edinburgh) Holbein, Hans 49, 267, 532, 741 environment 720 266 Holburne, Sir William 212 food 659, 660, 720 Reichstag (Berlin) 444 Hollande, François 426 highlights 661 Roman Baths (Bath) 211, 18 Homer 614, 646, 648 history 716-19 Spanische Hofreitschule 60 Honegger, Arthur 1097 itineraries 660 Spanish Steps (Rome) 741 Hora Sfakion 624 language 722 IN St Peter’s Square (Rome) 738 horse riding 338, 690, 929, 1031 money 722 DEX Stasi Prison (Berlin) 453 Horta, Victor 107 opening hours 721 Temple of Athena Nike (Athens) Horton-in-Ribblesdale 238 public holidays 722

H-J 575 Hotton 138 resources 660 Theatre of Dionysos (Athens) 575 Hove 203-6 telephone services 722-3 Topographie des Terrors (Berlin) Howard, Catherine 173 tourist information 723 452 Hugo, Victor 315, 426 travel to/from 660, 723-4 Tower Bridge (London) 173 Hunchback of Notre Dame, The 426 travel within 724-6 Trafalgar Square (London) 162 Hundertwasser, Friedensreich 53, 67 visas 723 Trevi Fountain (Rome) 740 Hungry Hill 685 Isle of Arran 263 Trinity College (Cambridge) 231 Huxley, Aldous 201 Isle of Skye 284 Trinity College (Dublin) 662 Hydra 604-5 Isola Bella 830 Tyne Bridge (Newcastle) 245 Italian (language) 1124-5 Willow Tearooms (Edinburgh) 271 history see also individual locations, I Italy 40, 727-848, 729 WWI, WII Ibiza 1010-12 accommodation 727, 842 Anglo-Irish War 717 iceskating 54 activities 843 battle of Austerlitz 91 Igoumenitsa 603 basics 727-8 battle of Hastings 342 Il Postino 840 climate 727 battle of Trafalgar 288 Île de la Cité 309 culture 839-41 battle of Waterloo 91, 115, 288 Île Rousse 420 drinking 728, 841-2 Black Death 53 Île Ste-Marguerite 413 embassies & consulates 843 Bloody Sunday 713, 718 Île St-Honorat 413 environment 841 Byzantine Empire 646 Île St-Louis 309 food 727, 728, 841-2, 843 Celtic Britain 286 Îles Lavezzi 424 highlights 729 Crimean War 425 Ilha da Tavira 912 history 838-9 Easter Rising 663 Ilha Deserta 911 itineraries 728 Franco-Prussian War 425 Iliad 646 money 728, 844 French Revolution 301, 425 Ingleborough 238 opening hours 843 Good Friday Agreement 719 Inisfallen 686 public holidays 844 Hapsburg Empire 91 Inisheer 697, 698 resources 728 Hundred Years War, the 424 Inishmaan 697, 698 telephone services 845 Industrial Revolution 288 Inishmór 697, 698 tourist information 845 Maastricht Treaty 883 Innerrhoden 1088 travel to/from 728, 845-7 Moors 930 Innisfree 701 travel within 847-8 visas 845 Olympics 646 Innsbruck 47, 80-6, 82 Ottoman Empire 646 insurance 1110, 1118 Ithaki 644 Reconquista 1036 Interlaken 1073-5 itineraries 34-7, see also individual locations Roman Britain 246, 250, 286 internet access 1111 Iveragh Peninsula 688 Roman Empire 838, 1036 Interrail passes 1122 Vikings 239 Inverness 281-2 hitchhiking 1119 Ioannina 602-3 J HMS Belfast (London) 175 Ionian Islands 639-46 Jack the Ripper 175 Hochstein 89 Ios 613-14, 613 James I of England 287 Hodler, Ferdinand 1068 Iraklio 618-20 James IV of Scotland 278, 287 Hofburg (Vienna) 48 Ireland 40, 659-726, 661 James V of Scotland 267, 278 Hofmann, Albert 1095 accommodation 720 jamón 1040 activities 721 Jean de Florette 427 basics 659-60 Joan of Arc 340, 350, 424 000 Map pages climate 659 John O’Groats 285 000 Photo pages culture 719 Johnson, Boris 162 1139 Johnson, Samuel 166, 173, 193 Kos 629-31 Les Baux de Provence 406 Joyce, James 666, 673, 695, 719 Krems an der Donau 63 Les Calanques 396 Juan Carlos of Spain 1037 Krimml 87 Les Calanques de Piana 422 Jungfrau 1075-8 Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna) Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil 384 Jungfraujoch 1052, 1077 49 Les Misérables 426 Jura 381-2, 1086 Kythira 645 Les Rougon-Macquart 427 lesbian travellers, see gay & lesbian travellers

K L IN La Besurta 991 L’Escala 987

Kalavryta 590 DEX L’Estartit 987 Kampen 556 La dolce vita 740 Lesvos 635-7

La Roche-en-Ardenne 138

Kandinsky, Wassily 354, 385, 480, J-L 493, 744, 774, 855, 1071 La Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 23, Letta, Enrico 839 Kap Arkona 488 938, 976, 23 Leuven 116 Kardamyli 596 Lac d’Annecy 377 Levy, Marc 427 Karl I 48 lace 134, 338 Lewis, CS 224 Kärnten 66 Lacroix, Christian 318 Leysin 1063 Karpathos 628-9 Laganas Bay 645 Libeskind, Daniel 248 Kassandra Peninsula 601 Lagos 891, 912-13 Lichtenstein, Roy 409, 514 Kassiopi 641 Lake Constance 90, 523-5 Lido, the (Venice) 775 Kastraki 597 Lake District (Britain) 255-7 Liechtenstein 1092-3 Katzenthal 355 Lake Geneva 1051, 1060-4 Liège 139 kayaking 138, 261, 912, 919, 929 Lake Maggiore 1088 Lienz 88-9 Kazantzakis, Nikos 648 Lake Pamvotida 602 Lier 116 Kefallonia 643-4 Lake Windermere 256 Lille 335-8 Keighley & Worth Valley Railway 237 Lakones 642 Limerick 691-2 Keitum 556 Lakonian Mani 595 Limnionas 645 Kelly, Grace 418 Land’s End 223 Lindau 525 Keswick 257 Lange Wapper 117 Lindos 628 Keukenhof 866 Languedoc-Roussillon 391-5 Linz 65-6 Keynes, John Maynard 180, 201 Larne 712 Lipari 828 Khadra, Yasmina 427 Larochette 148 Lippi, Filippo 741, 793 Khnopff, Fernand 128, 151 Lasithi Plateau 624-5 Lisbon 20, 892-906, 894-5, 898 Kiefer, Anselm 561 Last Supper, the 766 accommodation 896-901 Kilkenny 676-8 Lausanne 1060-2 Alcântara 895-6 Killarney 685-8 Lawrence of Arabia 175, 224 Alfama 20, 891, 892-3, 897, 901, 20 Kilronan 698 Le Brocquy, Louis 701 Baixa 892-3, 896-7, 901 Kinderdijk 874 Le Brun, Charles 334-5 Belém 893, 902-31 Kinsale 683-4 Le Clézio, JMG 427 drinking 903 Kioni 644 Le Corbusier 636, 1097 entertainment 903-5 Kipling, Rudyard 166 Le Nôtre, André 334-5 food 901-3 Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig 451, 560 Le Strange, Henry 234 itineraries 892 Kirkwall 285 Lecce 822-3 Lapa 893-4 Kitchener, Herbert 169 Leeds 234-6 Saldanha 893 kitesurfing 293, 1031, 1042 Leeuwarden 880 Santa Apolónia 893-4 Kitzbühel 46, 86-8 Lefkada 642 shopping 905 Klagenfurt 68-9 legal matters 1111 sights 892-6 Klee, Paul 402, 451, 480, 493, 539, Léger, Fernand 402 tourist information 906 774, 973, 1067, 1071, 1097 Lehár, Franz 77 travel to/from 906 Kleine Scheidegg 1077 Leibovitz, Annie 853 travel within 906 Klimt, Gustav 49, 53, 54, 65, 66, Leiden 851, 866-7 Lissewege 135 92, 744 Leipzig 472-4 Listrac-Médoc 388 Knights of St John 627, 630 Lenbach, Franz 493 literature, see individual writers and Knossos 620 Lennon, John 252 works Koblenz 527-8 Lens 341 Litohoro 602 Kohl, Helmut 559 León 964-6 Liverpool 251-5 Kokoschka, Oskar 49, 92 Leonidio 593 Livingstone, Ken 162 Kollwitz, Käthe 560 Léopold II of Belgium 107, 150 Llafranc 987 Königssee 502 Leroux, Gaston 314 Locarno 1088-9 1140 Loch Lomond 277-8 Lough Erne 715-16 Madrid 937-60, 940-1, 946-7, 950 Loch Ness 281, 282 Lough Leane 686 accommodation 945-9 Locke, John 223 Louha 645 drinking 953-4 Locmariaquer 345 Louis IX of France 309 entertainment 954-7 Loire Valley 302, 359-64 Louis XIII of France 308 food 949-53 London 10, 160, 163, 170-1 Louis XIV of France 308, 333, 334-5, history 937 accommodation 186-90 381, 425 shopping 957-8 activities 185 Louis XV of France 308, 425 sights 937-44 IN Bayswater 189, 192 Louis XVI of France 301 tourist information 958 DEX Lourdes 389-90 Bloomsbury 180-1, 187-8, 194, 182 tours 944 Lousios Gorge 593 travel to/from 958-9 Camden 181, 192, 194, 184 L-M Loutro 624 Chelsea 176-7, 187, 191, 178 travel within 959 Louvre Museum 312, 313 Clerkenwell 174, 192, 194 Magdeburg 479 Lower Saxony 542-8 Docklands 181-3 Magritte, René 101, 125, 128, 151, Lower Slaughter 227 354, 871 drinking 193-4 Lowry, LS 248 Mainz 527 Earl’s Court 188-9 Lübeck 555-6 Málaga 1026-8 entertainment 194-7 Lucca 729, 803-5 Malahide 673-4 Farringdon 192, 194 Lucerne 1071-3 Malham 238 Fitzrovia 191 Ludwig II of Germany 493, 504 Malia 621 food 190-3 Lugano 1053, 1089-91 Malines 116 Fulham 188-9 Lugo 1001 Mallarmé, Stéphane 427 Greenwich 183, 189 Lüneburg 546 Mallorca 1006-10, history 159-62 1008 Luso 920-1 Mamma Mia 638 Holburn 174 Luther, Martin 477, 481, 558 Man Booker Prize 289 Hoxton 181, 189, 192-3, 194 Lutherstadt Wittenberg 481 Man Ray 871 itineraries 159 Lutyens, Edwin 252 Manchester 247-50 Kensington 176-7, 187, 191, 194 Luxembourg 38, 140-9, Manet, Edouard 307, 404, 428, 764 Knightsbridge 176-7, 187, 191 102-3 accommodation 99, 152 Mani, the 595-6 Marylebone 177-80, 191 activities 152 Mann, Thomas 445 Mayfair 168-9 budgeting 100 Männlichen 1077 Notting Hill 189, 192 climate 99 Manolates 633 Paddington 189, 192 culture 150-1 Mantegna, Andrea 770 Pimlico 166-8, 186-7 drinking 100 Manteigas 921 shopping 197, 198 food 100, 153 Mantel, Hilary 289 Shoreditch 181, 189, 192-3, 194 highlights 102 Manuel I of Portugal 931 sights 162-85 history 149-50 Maó 1012 South Bank 174-6, 187, 190-1, 193-4 holidays 153 Marathonisi islet 594 Spitalfields 181, 189, 192-3, 194 internet resources 100 Marie Antoinette 81, 301, 309, 333 The City 169-74, 187, 193 itineraries 100 markets tourist information 197 language 150 Albert Cuypmarkt (Amsterdam) tours 185-6 money 153 862 travel to/from 198 opening hours 153 Berlin Art & Nostalgia Market 462 travel within 198-200 planning 99-100 Bloemenmarkt (Amsterdam) 862 West End 162-3, 190, 193, 164-5 population 150 Borough Market (London) 198 Westminster 166-8, 186-7, 168 religion 150 Brick Lane Market (London) 198 London Eye 175 travel to/from 100, 153-5 Brixton Market (London) 198 Londonderry 713-15 Luxembourg City 19, 102, 140-7, 142 Broadway Market (London) 198 Lorca, Federico García 1038 Lyon 368-74, 370-1 Camden Market (London) 181, 198 Loreley Rock 526 Columbia Road Flower Market Lorenzetti, Ambrogio 801 (London) 198 Lorrain, Claude 356 M El Rastro (Madrid) 957 Lorraine 353-8 Maastricht 851, 880-2 Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 905 Lough Corrib 699 Macke, August 538 Flohmarkt (Vienna) 61 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 271, Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz (Berlin) 274 462 MacNeice, Louis 224 Freyung Market (Vienna) 58 000 Map pages MacTaggart, William 267 Grüner Markt (Salzburg) 74 000 Photo pages Madame Bovary 427 Karmelitermarkt (Vienna) 58 1141 Les Halles de Lyon 372 Menorca 938, 1012-13 Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz Marché aux Enfants Rouges Mercedes-Benz 514 (Toledo) 968 (Paris) 322 Mérida 1035-6 Mosque of Süleyman (Rhodes) Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Merkel, Angela 559 627 Vanves (Paris) 331 Messinian Mani 595-6 motorcycle travel 1119 Marché aux Puces de Montreuil Mesta 634 Moulin, Jean 308, 369 (Paris) 331 Metaxas 647 Moulin Rouge (Paris) 328 Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen Meteora 597-8 Mt Athos 601

(Paris) 331 IN Metz 357-8 Mt Etna 831, 841 Marché Bastille (Paris) 322 Mt Ida 620 DEX Marché Belleville (Paris) 322 Mezquita (Cordoba) 938 Michelangelo 49, 224, 313, 466, 738, Mt Kynthos 608

Marché Couvert (Metz) 357 M 739, 740, 745, 785, 789, 792, 793 Mt Olympus 601-2 Marché Couvert St-Quentin (Paris) Mt Psiloritis 620 322 Middelburg 879-80 Mount Pilatus 1074 Marché Raspail (Paris) 322 Middleton, Catherine 169 Mount Rigi 1074 Mercat de la Boqueria (Barcelona) Miffy 877 969 Mikro Papingo 603 Mourne Mountains 707 Mercat de Santa Caterina Milan 766-9, 767 Mozart, Wolfgang Amedeus 69, 72, 75, 92 (Barcelona) 976 Miró, Joan 451, 636, 937, 942, 977, Monastiraki Flea Market (Athens) 1039, 1071, 1085 Muckross Lake 686 585 Mithymna 636-7 Mukherjee, Raj 1095 Naschmarkt (Vienna) 58 Mitterrand, François 301, 426 Munich 16, 489-500, 490-1 Odos 1866 (Iraklio) 619 Mizen Head Peninsula 684-5 accommodation 495-6 Oxford Covered Market 224 mobile phones 1114 drinking 498 Petticoat Lane Market (London) Modigliani, Amedeo 316, 341, 744, 937 entertainment 498 198 Molière 316 food 496-8 Porta Portese (Rome) 756 Molyvos 636 history 489 Portobello Road Market (London) Monaco 417-19, 417 shopping 499 198 monasteries, see convents & sights 489-95 Sunday (Up)market (London) 198 monasteries tourist information 499 Viktualienmarkt (Munich) 492 Monchique 913 travel to/from 499 Waterlooplein Flea Market Mondrian, Piet 855, 868, 884 travel within 499-500 (Amsterdam) 862 Mondsee 80 Munster 353 Marlowe, Christopher 232, 287 Monemvasia 594 Murano 775 Marseille 396-401, 398-9 Monestir de Montserrat 986 Murcia 1001 Martini, Simone 789 Monet, Claude 267, 307, 340, 341, Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 493, 944 Marx, Karl 181, 445, 529 342, 354, 356, 379, 385, 402, 428, Mürren 1077, 1078 Mary I of England 287 467, 493, 514, 854, 893, 1071, 1079 Murten 1070 Mary, Queen of Scots 267 money 25, 1111-13, see also individual Musée du Louvre (Paris) 312, 313 countries Matera 729, 820-1 Museo del Prado (Madrid) 944 Monodendri 603 Matisse, Henri 379, 381, 402, 409, museums & galleries 428, 539, 636, 764, 855, 1071 Mons 139 Acropolis Museum (Athens) 575 Matterhorn 12, 1065, 1097 Monsaraz 916 Albertina (Vienna) 49 Maximilian I 60 Mont Blanc 376, 1097 Ashmolean Museum (Oxford) Mayrhofen 86 Mont St-Michel 302, 345, 429 224 McCarthy, Paul 871 Montand, Yves 316 BALTIC Centre for Contemporary McCourt, Frank 691, 719 Montaner, Lluís Domènech i 973 Art (Newcastle) 245 McDonagh, Martin 719 Monti, Mario 839 Benaki Museum (Athens) 576 McGuinness, Frank 719 Montignac 384 British Museum (London) 181 McPherson, Conor 719 Montreux 1062-3 Byzantine & Christian Museum measures 1114 monuments, see historical buildings (Athens) 577 Mechelen 116 & monuments Capitoline Museums (Rome) 735 Mecklenburg-Vorpommern 483-9 Moore, Henry 236, 744 Casa Museu Dalí (Port Lligat) 986 Meersburg 525 Morandi, Giorgio 784 Centre Pompidou (Paris) 313 Megalo Papingo 603 1032 Centre Pompidou-Metz 357 Meissen 471 Morrison, Jim 316 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía Melk 64 Moselle Valley 149, 527-8 (Madrid) 937 Melrose 263 mosques Cité de l’Espace (Marseille) 395 Memling, Hans 101, 129, 151 Fetiye Cami (Ioannina) Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias Menalon Mountains 593 Mezquita (Córdoba) 1019 (Valencia) 1001 1142 museums & galleries continued Musée Rodin (Paris) 307 music festivals Collezione Peggy Guggenheim Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire Astropolis (Brest) 346 (Venice) 774 (Brussels) 107 Donauinselfest (Vienna) 54 Dokumentation Obersalzberg Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Eurochocolate (Perugia) 805 (Berchtesgaden) 502 (Brussels) 101 Kilkenny Rhythm & Roots 677 East Side Gallery (Berlin) 452 Museo Archeologico Nazionale Les Transmusicales de Rennes 346 (Naples) 809 Fondation Beyeler (Basel) 1085 Les Vieilles Charrues de Carhaix Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence) 789 Museo Civico (Siena) 801 (Carhaix) 346 IN Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) Museo del Prado (Madrid) 937, 944 Meltdown Festival (London) 186 DEX 793 Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Rome) 741 Montreux Jazz Festival 1062 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin) 451 Museo di San Marco (Florence) 793 Noites Ritual Rock (Porto) 924

M-N Gemeentemuseum (Den Haag) 868 Museo e Galleria Borghese (Rome) Primo Maggio (Rome) 746 741-824 Glasgow Science Centre 272 Puccini Festival (Sienna) 803 Museo Guggenheim (Bilbao) 994 Goethe Haus & Nationalmuseum Salzburg Festival 73 (Weimar) 475 Museo Nazionale Romano (Rome) Sani Jazz Festival (Kassandra) 601 Goldenes Dachl & Museum 745 (Innsbruck) 80 Museo Picasso Málaga 1026 Torino Milano Festival Internazionale della Musica Great North Museum (Newcastle) Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (Milan) 768 244 (Madrid) 937 Umbria Jazz Festival (Perugia) 805 Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 128 Museu d’Història de Barcelona 973 mustard 366 Imperial War Museum (London) 175 Museu d’Història de Tarragona 988 Mycenae 593 Imperial War Museum North Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Manchester) 248 (Barcelona) 977 Mykonos 605-9, 606 Kunsthistorisches Museum Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 973 Mystras 594 (Vienna) 49 Museum Boijmans van Beuningen Mytikas 602 Kunstsammlung Nordrhein- (Rotterdam) 871 Mytilini 635-6 Westfalen (Düsseldorf) 539 Museum het Rembrandthuis Leopold Museum (Vienna) 52 (Amsterdam) 857 N Louvre-Lens 341 Museum Sammlung Rosengart Nafplio 591-3 (Lucerne) 1071 Louvre Museum 312, 313 Namur 138 Museumsinsel (Berlin) 448 M Shed (Bristol) 214 Nancy 356-7 MuseumsQuartier (Vienna) 49 MACBA (Barcelona) 973 Nantes 384-6 Madame Tussauds (London) 180 National Archaeological Museum Naples 729, 808-15, 810-11 Mauritshuis (Den Haag) 868 (Athens) 576 National Gallery (London) 162 Napoléon Bonaparte 48, 64, 115, MSK (Ghent) 125 149, 288, 308, 313, 419, 422, 425, Palazzo Ducale (Venice) 774 Mudam (Luxembourg) 141 883, 1037 Palazzo Pitti (Florence) 793 Musée d’Art Moderne et Napoléon III of France 301, 425 Paul Klee Centre (Bern) 1067 Contemporain (Strasbourg) 354 national parks & reserves Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 448 Musée de Grenoble 379 Brecon Beacons National Park 260 Residenzmuseum (Munich) 492 Musée de l’Annonciade (St-Tropez) Connemara National Park 699 414 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 855 Dartmoor National Park 220 Musée de l’Œuvre Notre Dame Sprengel Museum (Hanover) 543 Hoge Veluwe National Park 878 (Strasbourg) 354 Städel Museum (Frankfurt-am- Hohe Tauern National Park 89-90 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Lyon) 369 Main) 532 Killarney National Park 686 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Nancy) 356 Tate Britain (London) 167 Lake District National Park 255-7 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Nantes) Tate Liverpool 253 Parc Naturel Interrégional du 385 Tate Modern (London) 174 Marais Poitevin 386 Musée des Beaux-Arts et Tate St Ives 221 d’Archéologie (Besançon) 381 Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figures) 986 Terre 762 Musée d’Orsay (Paris) 307 Uffizi Gallery 789 Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês Musée du Louvre (Paris) 312, 313 Ulster Museum (Belfast) 706 891, 929 Musée Horta (Brussels) 107 Universalmuseum Joanneum Parque Nacional de los Picos de Musée Magritte (Brussels) 101 (Graz) 66 Europa 997 Musée National d’Art Moderne Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) Parque Natural da Arrábida 908 (Paris) 313 854 Peak District National Park 231 Musée Picasso (Paris) 315 Vatican Museums (Rome) 739 Pembrokeshire Coast National Victoria & Albert Museum (London) Park 260 176 Snowdonia National Park 161, 000 Map pages Walker Art Gallery (Liverpool) 252 260-2 000 Photo pages music 29 Swiss National Park 1094 1143 Yorkshire Dales National Park O’Kelly, Donal 719 Pale di San Martino 788 237-8 O’Toole, Peter 193 Paleohora 623 Nauman, Bruce 973 Oberammergau 501-2 Paleokastritsa 642 Navarra 995-7 Oberwesel 526 Palermo 824-8, 825 Naxos 610-12, 611 Óbidos 917-18 Palma de Mallorca 1007, 1007-9 Nazaré 918 Odyssey 644, 646 Pals 988 Nelson, Lord Horatio 169 Offenbach, Jacques 317 Pamplona 995-7 Netherlands 18, 19, 40, 849-88, 851 Oia 615 Panamarenko 151 IN accommodation 849, 885 Oktoberfest (Munich) 16, 32, 442, Pane e Tulipani 840 DEX basics 849-50 493, 494 Paolozzi, Eduardo 236 budgeting 850 Oliver, Jamie 192

Papandreou, George 647 N-P climate 849 Olymbos 629 paragliding 86 culture 884 Olympia 596 Parikia 609 drinking 850, 884-5 Omaha Beach 344 Paris 301-33, 304-5, 310-11 embassies & consulates 885 Omalos 623 accommodation 317-20 environment 884 On Her Majesty’s Secret Service 1078 activities 316 food 849, 850, 884-5, 885 Opal Coast 338 Bastille 317-18, 321-2, 327 highlights 851 opening hours 1108, see Champs-Élysées 325 also individual countries history 882-4 drinking 326-8 opera houses itineraries 850 entertainment 328-30 Arena di Verona 770 laws 885 food 320-6 Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona) money 885-6 history 301 969 opening hours 885 Île de la Cité 309 Grand Opera House (Belfast) 711 public holidays 886 Île St-Louis 309 Opéra de Lyon 373 resources 850 itineraries 301 Palais Garnier (Paris) 314 telephone services 886 Latin Quarter 318-19, 322-3, 327 Staatsoper (Berlin) 462 travel to/from 850, 886-7 Left Bank 301-9 Staatsoper (Vienna) 59 travel within 887-8 Les Halles 317, 320-1, 326-7 Teatro alla Scala (Milan) 766, 768 Neuchâtel 1070 Marais 317-18, 321-2, 327 Teatro Carlo Felice (Genoa) 760, Neuschwanstein 504 762 medical services 331 Newcastle (Ireland) 707 Teatro dell’Opera di Roma (Rome) Montmartre 317, 320, 328, 314 Newcastle-upon-Tyne (Britain) 244-6 755 Montparnasse 324-5, 325-6 Newquay 220 Teatro La Fenice (Venice) 781 Odéon 319, 323-4, 327-8 Newton, Sir Isaac 166, 231 Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie Pigalle 320, 325-6, 328 Nice 407-12, 408-9 (Brussels) 113 République 319 Nicholson, Ben 221 Orkney Islands 285-6 Right Bank 312-16 nightlife 28, see also entertainment Ortisei 788 shopping 330-1 Nijinsky, Vaslav 317 Orvieto 807 sights 301-16 Nijmegen 876 Orwell, George 194, 201 St-Germain 319, 323-4, 327-8 Nîmes 391-3 Ostia Antica 759 tourist information 331 Nolde, Emil 543 Otto I of Germany 479 tours 316 Nordhausen 483 Ouchy 1061 travel to/from 331-2 Norfolk Broads 231, 236 outdoor activities 28, see also travel within 332-3 Normandy 340-5 individual activities parks & gardens North Frisian Islands 556-7 ouzo 650 Canal St-Martin (Paris) 316, 323 North Rhine-Westphalia 535-42 Oviedo 997-8 Englischer Garten (Munich) 494 Northeastern Aegean Islands 632-7 Owain Glyndŵr 287 Green Park (London) 169 Northern Ireland 703-16, see Oxford 223-6 Herrenhäuser Gärten (Hanover) also Ireland Oyster Card 200 543 Notting Hill Carnival (London) 32 oysters 347, 389 Hortus Botanicus (Amsterdam) Nuremberg 507-10 857 Nydri 642 Hyde Park (London) 177 P Nyon 1060 packing tips 25 Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris) 307 Padua 771-2 Kensington Gardens (London) 177 Paganini, Niccolò 760 Keukenhof Gardens (Lisse) 851, O 866 O’Brien, Edna 719 palaces, see castles, fortresses & Kew Gardens (London) 183 O’Casey, Sean 719 palaces Park Güell (Barcelona) 977 O’Conaire, Pádraic 694 Palazuelo, Pablo 942 1144 parks & gardens continued Pitman, Sir Isaac 212 Pyla-sur-Mer 390 Park Sanssouci (Potsdam) 465 planning Pyrgi 634 Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid) budgeting 24-5 Pythagoras 633 943 calendar of events 30-3 Pythagorio 633 Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park countries 38-41 (London) 181 internet resources 24-5 Regent’s Park (London) 177 Q itineraries 34-7 Quedlinburg 482-3 Tiergarten (Berlin) 456 travel seasons 24-5, 30-3

IN Quiet Man, The 699 Paros 609-10, 609 Plymouth 219-20

DEX Quignard, Pascal 427 Parthenis, Konstantinos 649 Pocinho 927 Quimper 346-7 Parthenon (Athens) 575 Poitiers 386-7

P-R Partnachklamm 500 Pollença 1009 Pasterze Glacier 89 Pollock, Jackson 744, 774 R patisseries 321 Raeburn, Sir Henry 267 Pompeii 816, 27 rafting 86 Patitiri 639 Pompidou, Georges 426 Rainier III of Monaco 418 Patmos 631-2 Poperinge 137 Raleigh, Sir Walter 173, 287 Patra 589-90 Poros 604 Ramsay, Allan 267 Pauillac 388 port wine 923, 924 Paxi 642 Portinho da Arrábida 908 Randstad, The 864-78, 865 Pays d’Auge 340 Portmagee 689 Raphael 49, 224, 313, 341, 467, 493, Peak District 231 739, 740, 741, 793, 812, 937 Porto 891, 921-6, 922-3 Pelekas Beach 642 Rathen 472 Portugal 40, 889-934, 930-1, 891 Pelion Peninsula 597 Rauch, Neo 473 accommodation 889, 931-2 Peloponnese, the 589-96 Ravel, Maurice 428 activities 932 Pembrokeshire 260 Ravenna 786-7 basics 889-90 Peniche 917 Regensburg 443, 511-12 climate 889 Pen-y-Ghent 238 Rego, Paula 909 culture 931 Penzance 222-3 Reims 302, 350-1 drinking 890, 931 Peratallada 988 Rembrandt 49, 72, 169, 232, 267, 451, embassies & consulates perfume 413 466, 514, 532, 855, 857, 868, 871, 932 884, 893, 937 Pericles 574, 646 environment 931 Remich 149 Perugia 805-7 food 889, 890, 931, 932 Remouchamps 138 Peter Pan 177 highlights 891 Reni, Guido 741 Phaestos 620-1 itineraries 890 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 307, 341, 343, Philip II of Macedon 149, 575 money 890, 932 428, 532, 764, 893 Philippe-Auguste of France 312 opening hours 932 Republic of Ireland 662-702, see Piaf, Edith 316 public holidays 933 also Ireland Piana 422 resources 890 reserves, see national parks & Piano, Renzo 761, 1085 telephone services 933 reserves Picasso, Pablo 428, 1039 travel to/from 890, 933 resources 25, see also individual countries museums 315, 973, 1026-7 visas 933 Rethymno 621 works 49, 232, 354, 356, 379, 385, Portuguese (language) 1125 402, 404, 451, 493, 514, 539, Reyntiens, Patrick 252 Positano 819 543, 636, 764, 774, 855, 937, Rhine, the 15, 526-7 Potsdam 465-6 1039, 1068, 1071 Rhineland-Palatinate 525-9 Picos de Europa 997 Potter, Beatrix 256 Rhodes 626-8, 626 Pigadia 629 pottery 870 Rhône Valley 364 Pindar 648 Poussin 169, 267 Rías Altas 1001 Pindos Mountains 602 Powerscourt 674 Richard I of England 64 Pinhão 927 Prora 488 Richard III of England 173, 239 Piper, John 252 Proust, Marcel 315, 316 Prouvé, Jean 356 Richter, Gerhard 467 Piraeus 587-9, 588 Rimbaud, Arthur 427 Pisa 799-801 Provence 395-407, 396-407 Psyhro 625 Ring of Beara 685 Pisano, Bonanno 799 Ring of Kerry 688-90 Pissarro, Camille 267, 316, 341, 428 public transport 1119, see also individual locations Ring of Skellig 689 Puccini, Giacomo 804 Rio Douro 927-8 000 Map pages Pullman, Phillip 289 Riviera (French) 407-19 000 Photo pages Purple Mountain 686 road rules 1119 1145 Robert the Bruce 266, 278, 287 S Selketalbahn 483 Rochefort 102, 138 Sa Calobra 1009 Selva Gardena 788 Rochehaut 138 Sachsenhausen 464-5 Semois Valley 138 rock climbing 86, 261 safety 1113 Sempere, Eusebio 942 Rodin, Auguste 101, 307, 338, 381, Sagan, Françoise 427 senior travellers 1109 855 Sagres 914 Serra da Estrela 921 Rodrigues, Amália 931 sailing 54, 90, 614 Sesimbra 908 Roman Holiday 840 Salamanca 961-3 Settle-Carlisle Railway 243 IN Romantic Rhine 15, 526-7 Salisbury 208-9 Seurat, Georges 316 DEX Romantic Road 503-4 Salmond, Alex 289 Seville 938, 1013-19, 1016-17 Rome 12, 729, 730-59, 732-3, 736-7, Salzburg 21, 69-76, 70-1 Sgombou 641 R-S 742-3 Salzkammergut 47, 77-80 Shakespeare, William 166, 174, 229, accommodation 747 Samaria Gorge 622-3 287, 289 drinking 754-5 Samaris, Antonis 648 Shaw, George Bernard 719 entertainment 755-6 Shrewsbury 228 Samos 632-3, 632 Esquiline 745, 750-1, 754, 748-9 San Gimignano 805 Sicily 823-33 food 751-4 San Martino di Castrozza 788 Siena 729, 801-3 history 730 San Sebastián 938, 992-3 Sigefroi, Count of Ardennes 140 itineraries 731 Sanfermines (Pamplona) 996 Signac, Paul 415 medical services 756 Sant Antoni 1012 Signoret, Simone 316 shopping 756 Sant Feliu de Guíxols 987 Silves 913-14 sights 730-46 Santa Cristina 788 Sintra 891, 907-9 Termini 745, 750-1, 754, 748-9 Santiago de Compostela 938, Sisi, see Elisabeth of Austria tourist information 757 998-1000 Sisley, Alfred 341, 404 Trastevere 744-5, 749-50, 752-3, Santillana del Mar 997 Sithonian Peninsula 601 746 Santorini (Thira) 22, 614-17, 615, 22 Sitia 625 travel to/from 757 Sappho 635, 648 Sítio 918 travel within 758-9 Sardinia 834-7 Skala Eresou 635, 637 Vatican City 735-9, 740, 747, 751 Sargans 1093 Skellig Michael 661, 689 Romeo and Juliet 770 Sarkozy, Nicolas 426, 429 Skiathos 637-8 Ronda 1028-9 Sarlat-La-Canéda 382-4 skiing 1108 Room with a View 840 Saronic Gulf Islands 603-5 Austria 81, 83, 86, 87, 88, 89 Rosa, Salvator 232 Sartre, Jean-Paul 427 France 376, 379 Rosengart, Angela 1071 Saving Private Ryan 344 Germany 500 Rostock 486-7 Saxony 466-74 Italy 788 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 506 Saxony-Anhalt 479-83 Spain 1042 Rotterdam 851, 871-6, 872-3 scenic journeys 29 Switzerland 1065, 1076, 1077, 1091, 1093 Rouen 340-2 Schaffhausen 1087-8 Skipton 237 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 308, 426, Schiele, Egon 54, 65, 92 1097 Skopelos 638-9 Schiller, Friedrich von 475 Route des Vins d’Alsace 353 skydiving 1073 Schiltach 521 Route des Vins de Jura 382 Slaughters, The 227 Schilthorn 1078 Route du Chocolat et des Douceurs Slieve League 703 Schleswig-Holstein 555-6 d’Alsace 353 Sligo 701-2 Schloss Hellbrunn 76 Route du Cidre 340 Snowdon 261-2 Schloss Neuschwanstein (Füssen) Rowling, JK 289 504 Snowdonia National Park 260-2 Royal Flanders Ballet 151 Schlüter, Andreas 487, 560 Soane, Sir John 174 Royal Shakespeare Company Schmidt-Rottluff, Karl 560 soccer, see football 229 Schubert 54, 58, 59, 92 Solana, José Gutiérrez 942 Royal Yacht Britannia 267 Schull 684 Sóller 1009 Rubens, Peter Paul 49, 72, 115, 116, Somme, The 335-40 124, 151, 232, 267, 340, 356, 381, Schumann, Robert 561 467, 493, 532, 793, 937 Schwerin 484-5 Sorolla, Joaquín 937 Rüdesheim 526 Scotland 262-85 Sorrento 817-18 Rudolf I of Belgium 48 Scott, Sir Walter 271 Sorrow of Belgium, The 150 Rügen Island 488 Scottish Highlands 161 Sos del Rey Católico 991 ruins, see archaeological sites & ruins Seferis, George 648 Sougia 624 Runge, Otto 560 Segovia 963-4 Sound of Music, The 44, 69, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76 Seia 921 1146 Spain 41, 935-1048, 938-9 St Moritz 1092-4 travel within 1103-4 accommodation 935, 1041-2 St Ursanne 1086 visas 1102 activities 1042 St Wolfgang 79 Sylt 556-7 basics 935-6 Steiermark 66 Symi 629 climate 935 Stein am Rhein 1088 synagogues culture 1038-40 Stein, Gertrude 316 Alte Synagoge (Erfurt) 478 drinking 936, 1040-1 Stein, Isa 65 Neue Synagoge (Berlin) 449 embassies & consulates 1042 St-Émilion 388 Sinagoga (Córdoba) 1019 IN employment 1044 Stemnitsa 593 Sinagoga de Santa María La DEX environment 1040 Stendhal 317 Blanca (Toledo) 967 food 935, 936, 1040-1, 1042 Stenness 285 Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo) 967

S-T highlights 938-9 Stirling 278-9 Sinagoga Major (Barcelona) 973 history 1036-8 St-Malo 347-50, 348 Synge, JM 697 itineraries 936 St-Martin 149 Syracuse 831-3 language 1043 Stonehenge 161, 209 money 936, 1043 Stow-on-the-Wold 227 T opening hours 1042 Stralsund 487-9 Tamariu 987 public holidays 1043 Strange Journey of Mr Daldry 427 Taormina 830-1 resources 936 Strasbourg 353-5 tapas 952 telephone services 1044 Stratford-upon-Avon 229-30 Tàpies, Antoni 973 tourist information 1044 Strauss, Johann 55 Tarifa 1031 travel to/from 936, 1044-5 Strauss, Richard 561 Tarragona 988-9 travel within 1046-8 Stromboli 829, 841 Tavira 891, 911-12 visas 1044 Stromness 285 taxis 1119 Spanish (language) 1125 St-Tropez 414-16 Taÿgetos Mountains 594, 595 Sparta 593-4 Stuttgart 512-15, 513 telephone services 1114, see spas 67, 77, 212, 518 St-Willibrord 148 also individual countries Spetses 605 Styria 66 Tennyson, Alfred 166, 231 Spinalonga Island 625 surfing, see also kitesurfing, Teruel 991 Spitzweg, Carl 69, 493 windsurfing Texel 876 Sporades 637-9 Britain 220, 293 Thackeray, William Makepeace 193 sporting grounds Germany 493 The Hague, see Den Haag Amsterdam Arena 862 Ireland 690, 702 theatres & concert halls, see Camp Nou (Barcelona) 983 Portugal 914, 917 also opera houses Estádio da Luz (Lisbon) 905 Spain 1042 O2 (London) 183 Estádio Nacional (Lisbon) 905 Sweeney Todd 175 Abbey Theatre (Dublin) 672 Estadio Santiago Bernabéu Swift, Jonathan 666, 719 Almeida (London) 195 (Madrid) 957 Switzerland 41, 1049-104, 1052-3 Auditorium Parco della Musica Millennium Stadium (Cardiff) accommodation 1049, 1099-100 (Rome) 755 257 activities 1100 Barbican (London) 196 Old Trafford (Manchester) 248 basics 1049-50 Berliner Philharmonie (Berlin) 462 Stadio Giuseppe Meazza (Milan) climate 1049 BOZAR (Brussels) 113 769 culture 1097 Concertgebouw (Amsterdam) 861 SS Great Britain 214 drinking 1098-9 Concertgebouw (Bruges) 134 St Andrews 280 embassies & consulates 1100 Cultuurcentrum Brugge (Bruges) St Anton am Arlberg 88 134 environment 1097-8 St Francis de Assisi 807 Cuvilliés-Theater (Munich) 492 food 1049, 1098-9, 1100 St Gallen 1087 Donmar Warehouse (London) 195 highlights 1052-3 St Gilgen 79 Druid Theatre (Galway) 697 history 1094-6 St Goar 526 Elbphilharmonie (Hamburg) 549 itineraries 1050 St Goarshausen 526 La Cigale (Paris) 329 language 1101 St Gotthard Mountains 1098 Le Lido de Paris 329 money 1050, 1101 St Ives 220-2 Lyric Theatre (Belfast) 711 opening hours 1100 St John the Baptist 339 Millennium Forum (Derry) 715 public holidays 1102 Moulin Rouge (Paris) 328 resources 1050 Mozarteum (Salzburg) 75 telephone services 1102 Musikverein (Vienna) 59 000 Map pages tourist information 1102 National Concert Hall (Dublin) 672 000 Photo pages travel to/from 1050, 1102-3 National Theatre (Athens) 584 1147 National Theatre (London) 194 Torcello 775 Val di Fassa 788 Old Vic (London) 194 Torla 991 Val Gardena 788 Olympia Theatre (Athens) 584 Tossa de Mar 987, 988 Valais 1064-6 Palau de la Música Catalana Toulouse 393-5 Valencia 1001-5, 1002 (Barcelona) 983 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de Valentia Island 689 Philharmonie (Luxembourg) 145 307, 854 Valldemossa 1009 Royal Albert Hall (London) 196, 10 tourist information 1114, see Van der Rohe, Ludwig Mies 480 also individual locations Royal Court Theatre (London) Van der Weyden, Rogier 101 Tournai 137-9 IN 194 Van Dyck, Anton 49, 81, 169, 267, 937 tours 1119-20 DEX Royal Festival Hall (London) 197 Van Eyck, Jan 24, 128, 130, 151, Royal Opera House (London) 197 Tours 361-3 532, 871

Royal Shakespeare Theatre Tower of London 172 Van Gogh, Vincent 139, 307, 402, 404, T-V (Stratford-upon-Avon) 229 Traben-Trarbach 528 406, 493, 854, 884, 1079 Sadler’s Wells (London) 197 Tragaea 611 Vasiliki 642 Schlosskonzerte (Salzburg) 75 train travel 24, 1115, 1120-2 Vasilikos Peninsula 645 Shakespeare’s Globe (London) transport 1115-22 Vathy 632-3, 644 174 Traunkirchen 80 Vatican City 735-9 Southbank Centre (London) Traunsee 80 vegetarians 561, 1041 196 travel to/from Western Europe Velázquez, Diego 81, 493, 740, 937, Stadsschouwburg (Amsterdam) 1115 944, 1039 862 travel within Western Europe Venice 12, 729, 772-84, 773, 778-9, Swan Theatre (Stratford-upon- 1116-22 Avon) 229 782-3 travellers cheques 1113 accommodation 776-7 Teatro Comunale (Florence) 798 trekking, see hiking activities 775 Teatro Massimo (Palermo) 826 Trento 788 drinking 781 Teatro Olimpico (Rome) 755 Triberg 521-2 entertainment 781 Teatro San Carlo (Naples) 814 Trier 528-9 food 779-81 Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie Triesenberg 1093 (Brussels) 113 history 772-3 Troger, Paul 92 Tiroler Landestheater (Innsbruck) sights 773-5 85 Truffaut, François 317 tourist information 781-3 Tonhalle (Zürich) 1084 truffles 383 tours 775 Wales Millennium Centre (Cardiff) Trujillo 1033-4 travel to/from 783-4 258 Tübingen 516 travel within 784 Waterfront Hall (Belfast) 711 tulips 866 Ventabren 402 Young Vic (London) 195 Turin 729, 764-6 Verlaine, Paul 427 Thesiger, Wilfred 224 Turner, JMW 167, 267 Vermeer, Johannes 169, 267, 451, 467, Thessaloniki 598-601, 599 Turner Prize 167 532, 855, 868, 870, 884 Thira, see Santorini Tuscany 14, 787-805 Verne, Jules 385 Third Man, The 53, 54, 60 Tuymans, Luc 151 Verona 729, 770-1 Thomas, Dylan 193, 194 Twain, Mark 193, 516 Veronese, Paolo 422, 774 Three Sisters (Glen Coe) 282 Twombly, Cy 493 Versailles 333-4 Thun, Matteo 75 Tyrol, see Tirol Vesuvius 841 Thuringia 474-9 Tzermiado 625 Veurne 137 Ticino 1088-91 Vézère Valley 384 Via Appia Antica 751 Tiepolo, Giovanni 937 U Time 1114 Uffizi, see Galleria degli Uffizi Viana do Castelo 927-8 Tintin 108, 360 Ullmann, Michael 445 Vianden 147 Tintoretto 267, 740, 774, 775, 871, 937 Ulysses 673 Victoria of England 162, 288 tipping 1113 Umbria 805-8 Vienna 17, 48-63, 50-1 Tirol 80-90 United Kingdom 290, see also Britain accommodation 55-6 Titanic 661, 706 Unterseen 1073 activities 54 Titian 81, 232, 267, 313, 381, 422, 467, Upper Slaughter 227 drinking 58-9 493, 740, 774, 775, 793, 812, 871 Utrecht 876-8 entertainment 59-60 Tivoli 759-60 events 54 Toledo 967-9 festivals 54 Tolkien, JRR 224, 226 V food 56-8 vaccinations 1110 Tomar 918-19 highlights 46 Vaduz 1092 Tombeau du Géant 138 history 48 Vaison-la-Romaine 407 Toorop, Charlie 855 itineraries 54 1148 Vienna continued Werfen 76-7 WWI 92, 135, 136, 150, 162, 175, 425, shopping 58, 60-1 Wernigerode 483 441, 558, 883 sights 48-54 Westerland 556 battle of the Somme 339 tourist information 61 Westvleteren 102, 137 memorials 135, 136 tours 54 Westminster Abbey (London) Treaty of Versailles 425, 558 travel to/from 61-2 166 WWII 92, 139, 150, 162, 168, 175, 301, travel within 62-3 Westport 700-1 338, 343, 426, 441, 550, 558, 617, 838 Vikos Gorge 603 Wexford 675-6

IN Battle of the Ardennes 148 Vila do Gerês 929 whale-watching 1031

DEX D-Day 343-4 visas 25, 1114, see also individual Where Eagles Dare 76 countries Whernside 238 French Resistance 369, 379

V-Z Vivaldi, Antonio 840 whiskey 667, 713 Holocaust 53, 445, 464, 475, 500, 545, 857, 883 Volkswagen 544 Whistler 167 memorials 139, 141, 344 Voltaire 308, 426 White Cliffs of Dover 203 Nuremberg Trials 508 von Hildebrandt, Johann Lukas White Material 427 Wyk 557 53, 92 Wicklow Way 675 von Raitenau, Wolf Dietrich 73 Wieskirche 502 Vorarlberg 90-1 Wilde, Oscar 316, 666, 719 Y Voulismeni Lake 625 Wilhelm II of Germany 465 Yeats, Jack B 663, 701 Vourliotes 633 Wilhelm Tell 475 Yeats, William Butler 666, 701, 719 Vulcano 829 Wilkie, Sir David 267 York 160, 238-43, 240 Vyros Gorge 596 William, HRH Prince 169, 201 Yorkshire Dales 237-8 William the Conqueror 159, 166, 173, Ypres 102, 135-7 200, 230, 286, 342, 343, 424 W Winchcombe 227 Waddenzee 880 Z Winchester 206-7 Wagner, Otto 54, 66, 92 Zaanse Schans 864 Windermere 256 Wagner, Richard 561 Zagorohoria 603 windmills 864, 874 Wales 257-62 Zakros 621 Windsor 200-1 walking, see hiking Zakynthos 644-6 windsurfing 642, 1031, 1042, 1108 Wallace, William 266, 278 Zapatero, José Luís Rodríguez 1038 wine 26 Wallis, Alfred 221 Zaragoza 989-91 Austria 93 Wallonia 137-40 Zermatt 1053, 1065-70 France 355, 382, 388, 410 Walsh, Enda 719 Zernez 1094 Germany 562 War of Independence 288 Zettersfeld 89 Greece 591, 616 Warhol, Andy 65, 409, 493, 514, 536 Zola, Émile 308, 317, 401, 427 Italy 841 Warnemünde 486-7 Zonnebeke 136 Luxembourg 149 Warwick 230-1 zoos 49, 82, 117, 180 Spain 938, 1041 Wastell, John 232 Zorba the Greek 649 Wismar 485-6 waterfalls 87, 138, 521 Zugspitze 500 Wittdün 557 Waterloo 115 Zuloago, Ignacio 994 Wittenberg 481 Waterville 688 Zumthor, Peter 90 Woesten 137 weather 24, 30-3 Zürich 1052, 1078-84, 1080-1 Wolfgangsee 79-80 websites 25, see also resources accommodation 1081-2 Wolfsburg 544 weights 1114 drinking 1083-4 Wolsey, Cardinal Thomas 185, 223 Weimar 475-7 entertainment 1083-4 Woolf, Virginia 180 Wellenstein 149 food 1082-3 Wordsworth, William 255, 256 Wellington, Duke of 169 information 1084 Wörthersee 68 Wells 217-18 shopping 1084 Wouters, Rik 151 Wells, Patricia 324 sights 1078-9 Wren, Christopher 159, 169, 173, 223 Welsh (language) 258 travel to/from 1084 Würzburg 506-7 Wengen 1077 Zwolle 876

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 1126

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OUR READERS well as Margarita Kontzia and Kostas Kara- Many thanks to the travellers who used the katsanis, made it home. last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, Oliver Berry useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Geoff Mackay, Stephen Poplin Thanks to Cliff Wilkinson for the England gig, Ryan ver Berkmoes for keeping us on course, and David Carroll, Dan Corbett and the rest AUTHOR THANKS of the SPP team for being there whenever we needed you! Special thanks to Susie, Molly Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Gracie Berry, and to all the people I met Thanks to all the authors who worked so hard out on the road. on this guidebook. Meanwhile in the Nether- lands, thanks to a range of old friends who Kerry Christiani came through like windmills on a breezy day. A big Dankeschön to all of the super-efficient In Switzerland, thanks to Claudia Stehle for tourism professionals who made the road to beers, Damien Simonis for being himself and research a breeze, especially Cornelia Pirka in Judy Slatyer and Peter for a splendid night. Vienna, Maria Altendorfer and team in Salz- And big thanks to the eternally glistening burg and Colette Spiss-Verra in Innsbruck. Alexis Averbuck. Thanks to my Vienna friends Chiara and Karin for good times and invaluable tips. Thanks also Alexis Averbuck go to Ryan Ver Berkmoes, my fellow authors Hail Alexandra Stamopoulou for her spot- and the entire Lonely Planet production team. on recommendations. Marina Flenga was a superlative fairy godmother, connecting me Mark Elliott to those in the know. Marilee Anargyrou Kyri- In a sense I’ve been researching this book azakou and Cali Doxiadis (in Kerkyra), Eleni for nearly two decades since being dragged Doxiadi (in Lefkada) and Manita Scocimara- very willingly to Belgium by love and bubbles. Ponghis (in Kefallonia) shared their love and Sadly neither last forever, it seems. None- knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Lena theless, my admiration for the country has Lambrinou decoded the Acropolis and Elina outlasted everything. A million thanks to my Lychoudi the nightlife. Anthy and Costas, as unbeatable family for endless support, and to BEHIND THE SCENES 1127

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- - ­ - beijos Kylie Kylie Elin Berglund, Laura Jacqui Saunders Frost, Genesys India, Jouve Frost, India, Andi Jones, Darren O’Connell, DiannePaton, Schallmeiner, Trent Joseph Kerrianne Southway, Spanti, Navin Sushil, Gina Walker Gerard Tsarouhas, O’Brien, O’Brien, Katie Sara O’Connell, Jeanette Wall linda Turner, Assisting Cartographers JulieBasic, Fatima Dodkins, Alex James Leung, Gabriel Leversha, Lindquist, Laura Matthewman Assisting Layout Designer Cover Research McLaughlin Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Language Content Branislava Vladisavlijevic Thanks to Ryan Larissa Crawford, Evans, d had my daily quota of Mythos Mythos of daily quota d had my ’

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Michelle Freiling, Silke Neumann, Kirsten Schmidt, Schmidt, Kirsten Neumann, Silke Freiling, Christoph Münch, Christoph Michael Radder, Hom Danilo Schwarzkopf, Patrick Lehmann, Julia Richthofen, von Jasper Freiherr Dr mel, David course, of and, Jan Czyszke Schröder, respon team LP the entire to Kudos Peevers. book. such a kick-ass producing sible for LouisRegis St for Guida Moura thank to like I’d In Lisbon, Michael chef her friendship and hospitality, the and insight into his kindness Guerrieri for his mine for Teixeira João and dining scene, Italian out to go Thanks knowledge. local of Figini for and Cesare Silvia Luraschi travellers tourism all the helpful and to on Braga, tips always, As the country. across officials and Magdalena Cassandra, family my to their support. for Genevieve author Ryan Ver Berkmoes. In Melbourne, Melbourne, In Berkmoes. Ver Ryan author Handsaker, and Max Peter to thanks and love the fort. who held Craig McLachlan me who helped all those to thanks hearty A ex my to all, of but most out on the road, me who let Yuriko, wife, beautiful ceptionally when I know pitta. and gyros Andrea Schulte-Peevers wonderful all these to thanks Big heartfelt insights, plied me with tips, people who’ve (in and encouragement ideas information, Miriam Tidefjärd, Henrik order): no particular Frank Julia Schwarz, Gümmer, Petra Bers, Gindul ‘Cookie’ Heinz Walter, Myriel Engster, Renate Gretschel, Steffi Heiner Schuster, lis, - Chris Girdler

Jessica Rose Valentina Valentina who Designer Assisting Editors Bennett, Carly Hall, Elizabeth Holden, Anne Trent Harvey, Mason, Kate Anne Morgan, Karyn Mulvaney, Noble, Sally Commissioning Editors Joe Bindloss, Lucy Monie Hall, Helena Smith Coordinating Editor Samantha Forge Coordinating Cartog rapher Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Managing Editors Mertens, Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers AnthonyAdrian Persoglia, Phelan, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout madrileños - Western Western Europe on a on Europe Eastern Europe, Europe, Eastern guide. It was my great fortune fortune great my It was guide. and and . Lonely Planet also also Planet Lonely . Spain office, and produced and produced office, guidebook, which is is which guidebook, to Viviana and Lorenzo for the use the use for and Lorenzo Viviana to This guidebook was com This guidebook was London the following: by publishes phrasebooks for for phrasebooks publishes regions. these Planet’s in Lonely missioned Mediterranean Europe, Central Central Europe, Mediterranean Europe, Southeastern Europe, Scandinavia Shoestring of Lonely Planet’s Planet’s Lonely of Europe Europe Planet’s Lonely of part this in titles Other series. include series This Book helped have people Many edition 11th this create to Joe Bindloss. In California (or one of the one of (or In California Joe Bindloss. he regularly airports international numerous coordinating to thanks through), transits As always, many thanks to the staff of of the staff to thanks many always, As also Thanks Italy. throughout offices tourist coauthor Italy-based ever-helpful my to to thanks In London, Garwood. Duncan Smith and Helena editors commissioning this city a true place of the heart. And to Car And to the heart. of a true place this city greatest Madrid’s are you Valentina: and lota all. of gifts Virginia Maxwell decade in the city. A huge thank you to Dora Dora to thank you huge A city. in the decade Lonely of all the authors and to Whitaker Planet’s my meet arriving in Madrid to after a week who has made Marina, and soulmate, wife writing of this book, I’ll miss you. I’ll miss book, this writing of Anthony Ham all those to thanks Heartfelt my friends during call to been proud I have A toast to fellow scribes Virginia Maxwell and Maxwell Virginia scribes fellow to toast A a huge always, as and, Berkmoes, Ver Ryan Nello Salvati, To and Nick. Ben Lidia, hug to during the away who passed father-in-law my Grazie and Nino Fini Romano to and their flat, of Thanks it. into me break helping for Amato Matteozzi Federica Gudrun Selinger, to also in Genoa. advice their for and Marina Parodi Wieland de Hoon, Hans Rossel, Guy Jacobs, Jacobs, Guy Rossel, Hans de Hoon, Wieland de Valerie Devos, Lesley Systermans, Dani Taylor. Sharon and Kerpel Duncan Garwood uncountable folks who have helped me over me over helped have who folks uncountable notably the region, exploring of years many ­44 11, 1633 11, . ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger of Map World System Earth and Hydrology Classification’, Sciences, The Matterhorn, photograph: Cover Images. Tomlinson/Getty David Switzerland. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd - - email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions and conditions the terms See it. or resell know, you everyone email it to the right thing with ‘Do - the above saying of way a longer for on our site our content.’ to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other In other only. purposes non-commercial personal, it for use to ask you to mass site, a peer-to-peer to this chapter upload don’t please words, © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, use, to you for it easier make To Ltd. Pty Publications Planet © Lonely fair think it’s we In return, digitally restricted. is not this chapter to access fice staff all over Ireland, and to all those folk folk all those and to Ireland, all over staff fice advice who offered the road and on in pubs and recommendations. Thanks to the friendly and helpful tourist of tourist the friendly and helpful to Thanks Neil Wilson NicolaWilliams - resolute who coauthors France my to Kudos that, ambitious project with an ly persevered Tower Eiffel the scaling akin to felt at times, mille merci the road On stilettos. in on tiptoes Lehoux Vincent aficionado Corsica to fois recommendations); Ajaccio (unsurpassable (Corsica Tramuta Lindsay and Dietz Kasia (best Johnson Charlie Paris); of way by tips - hus travel-mad my camping); hidden beach tribe (only and our trilingual Matthias, band hair coastal of during 2000km sick once car pins covered at average speed of 38km/h). speed of at average pins covered

1128 BHNT E I D HE SCENES