South Mexico – December 2005

South Mexico – December 2005 Petri Hottola [email protected] Bird-tourism in 'Post-Wilma' South Mexico: Cozumel Island, Yacatan, Chiapas, Oaxaca and Veracruz in December 2005. In December 2005, I had a three week birdwatching vacation in Southern Mexico. Starting from Merida, about 5000 km was driven in the search for birds and animals. A total of 454 bird species were recorded on the way, the main dip outs being White-bellied Chachalaca, White-faced Quail-Dove, Pacific Screech-Owl, Unspotted Saw-Whet Owl, Longtailed Sabrewing, Cozumel Emerald, Ocellated Trasher, Lovely Cotinga, Blue-Crowned Chlorophonia, Rose-throated Tanager, Stripe-headed Tanager and Plain-breasted Brushfinch, as explained in the text. My trip was a serious birding challenge with little else included, and some nocturnal driving to see or hear the owls and nightjars. One night (Calakmul) was spent in the rental car, the excellent Nissan Tsuru. I made my personal year record in 2005, 1713 species, and also reached the 5000 marker (life list) on this journey, in Puerto Arista. A full species list could not be produced due to time restrictions, but most key species are included in the following comments. The idea is to provide some up-to-date information on the sites visited, regarding species, access, accommodation and other practical matters, especially in reference to Steve Howells A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico (1999). Many of the comments in the text can only be understood in relation to this guidebook, which still today is the main reference to birdwatching in Mexico. Most of the information in Howell was discovered to be accurate, six years after the publication. Hurricane Wilma did, however, change the situation in Cozumel and some other coastal locations in the NE Yucatan, especially regarding endemic bird species. Unfortunately, some of these negative changes may be of permanent nature. P indicates Mexican pesos (P40 is forty pesos) in the text and km (e.g. km5) to kilometers. All the room rates refer to single occupancy without breakfast, unless stated otherwise. There was little difficulty in finding the rooms, even during Christmas in Catemaco (Los Tuxtlas; cf. Lonely Planet). Only the first night in Merida (Hacienda Inn; next to the airport and along main access to highways) was reserved beforehand. Euro was accepted (and sometimes preferred) in all currency exchange points encountered. I had three weeks of mostly sunshine, and temperatures between +2°..+32°C, depending on altitude. The hottest place was NE Yucatan, and the coldest La Cumbre (north of Oaxaca City) and the ridges above Valle Nacional. On the whole, the conditions were mostly quite agreeable, or even pleasant. Driving was mostly pleasant, but there were certain problems, as well. The most stressful part was, once again, navigating the cities, with their one-way system. Potholes and topés were a good second, and finding parking places the third. Few words regarding car rental: I had a very satisfactory deal with a local, trustworthy company (several other travelers can confirm this); Mexico-Rent-A-Car in Merida. I can only recommend this local company, with its hard to beat rates (about 50% of Avis, Hertz, Budget etc.) and well-maintained & insured cars. I had a Nissan Tsuru (P7600 in cash for 21 days 1 and full insurance, P6000 (500) deductible (only in the case of total loss of the vehicle; minor damage was 100% covered), a perfect choice to mingle in the local traffic unnoticed, and a car with high clearance to deal with all the topés on the way. There were no problems at all with the vehicle. Roads and highways were in good or perfect condition in Yucatan, Chiapas and most of Oaxaca, but often potholed or otherwise damaged in Veracruz (and Tabasco), excluding the as a rule dependable cuotas. The cross-Yucatan cuota may yet not be on par with other Mexican tollways but it is being improved at the moment. Buy the latest Guia Roji (Road Atlas) on arrival, or order it from the Internet dealers (e.g. Amazon.com). Please notice that everything in this report refers to the situation in December 2005. I have recorded how things appeared to me during fleeting single (in some cases two to four) visits in the following locations. Things do change and even when they do not, individual perceptions may be quite variable. There is no guarantee on the birds species seen in these sites. The English language bird names in this report refer both to full species and subspecies, and also to some taxonomic borderline cases. It is up to you to decide which taxonomy to follow. YUCATAN Merida airport The capital of Yucatan is a good choice to enter the region if you are planning to visit Chiapas, as well. I had four flights from Savonlinna to Helsinki (Golden Air), Helsinki to Paris (Air France), Paris to Mexico City (AF) and Mexico City to Merida (Aeromexico). In Merida, there is a small and efficient international airport with easy to follow access (wide boulevard with at least two different names on road maps) to the main highway and Uxmal, Celestun, Progreso, among others. The domestic airline Aeromexico had good service, far better than Air France in my case. For example, AF lost my luggage both ways, with 12 hour delay in Mexico and 5 day delay in Finland. Do not go via Paris if you desire to arrive with your luggage! There is an ATM, prepaid taxi counter and many other services. A practical choice for accommodation is Hacienda Inn (P550 for a double, Internet reservation possible, I did not pay beforehand, plenty of space available), 3 minutes from the airport by a prepaid taxi (P70), along the same boulevard. Met my car rental representative at the hotel and thereby did not have to waste time going downtown. Downtown Merida is said to be complicated with its narrow streets and one way system. Returning the car, we also met at Hacienda Inn, and I got a ride to the close-by airport. Rio Lagartos The village is a nice, laid back place where I would have loved to spend more time. There is water, mudflats and birds everywhere, and a nice breeze from the sea. The waterfront had a large variety of herons, waders, gulls and terns, and the odd American Flamingo (1 flashy adult in deep red plumage). Hotel Vila dos Pescadores was a good choice, with its price (P350), ok rooms, location at the waterfront, secure parking (gate open at 6 am) and nice owners. Just continue through the village to the waterfront and youll find the place. Alternatively, ask the prospective bird/boat trip guides, who will soon approach you as you enter the village, in a friendly and polite manner. There are some expert bird guides around. Ask for Ismael, for example, if you desire to be guided. 2 There is a nice marsh along the access road to Rio Lagartos, on both sides of the road after Tizimin, with Clapper Rail, Sora, ducks, grebes, Northern Jacanas and swallows. Rancho San Salvador junction (cf. Howell) and forward was productive especially early in the morning and late afternoon, with interesting species such as Yucatan Bobwhite, Zenaida Dove, Yucatan Woodpecker, Ruddy Crake, Mexican Sheartail and Yucatan Wren, the last three being rather difficult to find. The Wrens are apparently not regular at the junction anymore, but need more exploration (and luck) along the main road, and on the nature trail to the right. The guides also know other relatively reliable sites for this rarity. Orange Orioles were common here. There were also few Golden Warblers around, presumably blown to the coast from Cozumel or other islands (Isla Mujeres?) during the hurricane (??). A White-tailed Deer (Yucatan subspecies) was seen by the Merida-Cancun cuota. Felipe Carillo Puerto Stayed three nights here, with one longer night trip. Hotel El Faisan y El Venado (Pheasant and Deer) is an ok place to stay – very convenient because its close proximity to Vigia Chico road (to Sian Kaan reserve), attached restaurant and reasonable rates (P230; some rooms are better than others). The main problem is finding a place for car, with very limited space in the hotels secure parking. I parked on the narrow and busy street/highway in front of the building, without problems. The local police frequently dines at the restaurant, and guides the traffic close by, providing additional security (Yes, the police in Mexico can be trusted in most cases!). Bird tour groups also often stay in El Faisan y El Venado when visiting the Vigia Chico road. Several interesting species such as Yucatan Parrot, Wedgetailed Hummingbird, Yucatan Flycatcher, Caribbean Elaenia, Northern Bentbill, White-browed and Whitebellied Wren, Orange Oriole and Yucatan Jay were more of less readily seen on the Vigia Chico road. I was also lucky to see a Mexican Ant-thrush, a rather difficult skulker, and a Cape May Warbler there. Magnolia and Hooded Warblers, and four species of Vireos were quite common. Black Catbirds were clearly outnumbered by Grey ones, the latter species also often appearing quite dark in the shadows of the forest. For nightjars, the most productive part of the road was between km15 (the large, open meadow) and km17. Pauraque was common here and both Yucatan Poorwill and Yucatan Nightjar were present, the former (2) on the road and the latter calling shortly around dusk. After km17 the road was too flooded for a sedan. My last morning also produced a Green-backed Sparrow, a common but not always easy species to see, at km3. A splendid Speckled Racer, the only snake of the trip, was also seen on the Vigia Chico road.

Load more