f\ THE g~\ GATEWAY GUIDE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Fall 1984 JEFFERSON NATIONAL EXPANSION MEMORIAL

Joseph Matthews © 1981 All Rights Reserved A Monument for Our Time

At 630 feet, the Gateway Arch is truly the Arch, which commemorates the past, whatever means necessary, and the idea of you is still considered the land of oppor­ an engineering marvel of the 20th cen­ you must study the pattern of American that Jefferson masterminded took on a tunity. The Gateway Arch is a monument to tury. This towering memorial stands in history between 1800-1900 which is force of its own. It was finally given flesh the spirit of those people in the last century silence but dominates the St. Louis skyline. presented in the Museum of Westward Ex­ when a continental United States bordered who accepted the challenge of that oppor­ As out of town visitors traverse the pansion. on two oceans. tunity. highway systems of downtown St. Louis, Thomas Jefferson set the stage for a The giant steel Arch is symbolic of a -Bobby Norfolk they are taken by complete surpTise the series of events in United States and world time when massive growth, cultural Published by first time they witness this spectacle of history that persists even today. His vision upheavals, and technological ad­ Jefferson National Expansion 42.878 tons of stainless steel and concrete. was in purchasing the Louisiana Territory vancements dominated the western scene. Historical Association As you descend into the Arch's visitor from Napoleon of France, an act which Quietly consider these thoughts as you center you will discover a museum unique doubled the size of the United States. The gaze from the windows at the top of the I I North Fourth Street in design and rich in culture. To understand frontier West was eventually rolled back by Arch. The West spreading forward in front St. Louis. Mo 63102 We're One Stop You May Need to Make in St. Louis

We're MedStop, a new alternative in health care. Our doctors can take care of general medical problems like colds, flu, cuts, sprains, minor breaks and other minor urgent care conditions. We're open when you need us and where you need us. Our downtown location at 6th and Pine Streets is open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday and from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday. Most patients are seen, treated and released in less than one hour. No appointment is necessary. We provide most medical tests and treatments including allergy shots, throat cultures, blood pressure checks, blood counts and other laboratory work. 5 locations throughout the Metro area including 600 Pine Street. 600 Pine Street MedStop 621-0610 WELCOME 3 Have Folklife Lives! The Folklife Program at lefferson Na­ a Safe Visit tional Expansion Memorial presents tradi­ tional performers and craftspeople at the The National Park Service places great Gateway Arch and Old Courthouse. Tradi­ emphasis on providing a safe environment tional culture-reflecting the themes, story for all visitors. Please help us maintain our and artifacts of the Museum of Westward park's good safety record. Expansion and the Old Courthouse is Parents, please keep your children with presented through public programs, you at all times, or under direct observa­ seminars, community contacts, festivals and tion, especially near the outdoor ponds. exhibits. The Folklife Program attempts to Watch for stairs, uneven floor levels and steps in the Old Courthouse. Watch for sudden steps, roped areas and uneven floor levels in the Museum. Gateway to The West Keep children off the fountain in the Gateway Arch lobby. The water they splash "Gateway to the West" examines the War to the arrival of steamboats in St. Louis creates slick spots where others may fall. history and growth of St. Louis in relation­ is depicted. Other forces and events which Uniformed park rangers patrol the park ship to America's westward expansion. The shaped the West are discussed in the grounds. IF YOU NEED ASSISTANCE. majority of people heading west in the movie, including the war with Mexico, the ANY PARK RANGER CAN HELP YOU. 19th century used St. Louis as their outfit­ gold rush and the construction of the ting and organizing city. St. Louis served as railroads. the emporium supplying the West with St. Louis served as the Gateway to the commercial goods. West for many years as people and goods install an appreciation for the traditional arts Disabled Access The 30 minute film highlights early headed west, funneling through the city's which are as vital today (though changed French settlement and influence along the streets. The film celebrates this rich over time) as they were in the early times of Mississippi River Valley. The early history heritage. It is shown daily in the Old Court­ We encourage disabled visitors to con­ the West. of the region from the French and Indian house. tact us in advance to arrange special ser­ Demonstrations of such crafts and vices. Please stop at the information desk trades as sheepraising. blacksmithing. sad- for immediate assistance. Time of The West dlemaking. quilting, cooperage (barrel mak­ ing) and basketmaking are scheduled for the Museum of Westward Expansion from May FOR DEAF VISITORS "Time of the West"' presents an ex­ majestic mountains and the prairie cellent overview of the history of the West grasslands, one feels the same attraction through the summer. Musical programs Teletype units are available at the infor in the 19th century. This 35 minute for the western landscape that the ex­ ranging from cowboy singing and old time mation desk; the park information phone. movie creates an eloquent mood as the Old plorers and settlers felt in the last century. fiddling to recanters of the blues are also (314) 425-4465. also provides this service. West is brought to life on the screen. The The harmony created on the screen be­ planned for the spring and summer months. movie transports the audience back to the tween the beauty of the West and the During the rest of the year, the Folklife time of Lewis and Clark, the mountain men. sounds of western life conveys a feeling of Program plans activities for Black Heritage FOR BLIND VISITORS the gold rush, and the railroads. respect for the men and women who ven­ Month, the St. Louis Storytelling Festival Time of the West" delicately blends tured forth in the time of the West. The film and other special events. For more informa­ Special tours of the Museum of westward expansion history with the is shown daily in Tucker Theatre. Arch tion call (314)425-6004. Westward Expansion are available. Please Visitor Center lobby. make arrangements at the information physical beauty of the West. Viewing the desk, or call (314) 425-6010 for tour reser­ vations.

FOR VISITORS IN WHEELCHAIRS Because of steps at the loading areas, the ride to the top of the Arch requires assistance. Visitors must be able to be lifted from their wheelchairs into and out of the tram cars. Access is possible with assistance from friends or relatives. Please state that tickets are for a person in a wheelchair when purchasing. Monument to The Dream ACCESSIBLE RESTROOMS ARE lefferson National Expansion Historical Associa­ AVAILABLE AT THE OLD COURTHOUSE. "Monument to the Dream" depicts the of stainless steel and pour the concrete to tion publishes the GATEWAY GUIDE in cooperation MUSEUM OF WESTWARD EXPANSION. construction of the Gateway Arch. create the 630-foot Arch. with the National Park Service. America's tallest monument. The construc­ The Gateway Arch honors the ex­ The association is a non-profit corporation which AND VISITOR CENTER LOBBY. exists solely to support the National Park Service in tion of the Arch is traced from its concep­ plorers, settlers, and pioneers who helped programs of interpretation, education, research and tion on the drawing board to the placement expand America's boundaries to the West publications. of the last stainless steel section. Coast. The Arch is also a tribute to the men OPERATION HOURS The 28 minute film examines the in­ who had the courage and foresight to build Editor: Sharon A. Brown genuity and complexity of the Arch design this colossal structure — an engineering Writers: Harold Bailey lr.. Diane Banta. Sharon A. Visitor Center: summer — 8:00 am to Brown. Mark Coppersmith, Ian Dolan. Barb Lau. as the narrator guides the audience on a masterpiece and symbol of America's pro­ 10:00 pm; winter — 9:00 am to 6:00 pm gress. The film is shown daily in Tucker Gerald McGill. and Craig Sheldon visual journey through each phase of con­ Design and printing: Hartmann Publishing Co Old Courthouse: year round — 8:00 am Theatre. Arch Visitor Center lobby. to 4:30 pm struction. As the movie proceeds, the Photos courtesy lefferson National Expansion viewer watches the workers weld the plates Memorial, unless otherwise credited. 1985 IS A DOUBLE ANNIVERSARY YEAR! 50 YEARS AGO — THE JEFFERSON NATIONAL EXPANSION 20 YEARS AGO - THE GATEWAY ARCH CONSTRUCTION MEMORIAL WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1935 WAS COMPLETED IN 1965 ARCtl 4 Honoring the Past

In 1934 a group of St. Louis citizens sion. The city was the source for western formed the Jefferson National Expansion commercial and economic ventures. Memorial Association. Led by lawyer St. Louis also served as the starting Luther Ely Smith and Mayor Bernard point for many pioneer journeys. Steam­ Dickmann. the group wanted to establish a boats lined the levee, which was cluttered park and memorial on the city's riverfront with cargo. The city streets were filled with to honor Thomas Jefferson. The associa­ blacksmith and gun shops, taverns, fur tion succeeded in capturing the interest of trading headquarters, general stores and Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes and warehouses. As early as 1803-04 President Franklin D. Roosevelt. As a Meriwether Lewis acquired supplies here result, on December 21. 1935. Roosev It while William Clark drilled and trained men established the Jefferson National Expan­ in preparation for the expedition to the sion Memorial National Historic Site as part Pacific Ocean. Twenty years later of the National Park System. rendezvous-bound caravans left from here What then, is the relationship between with supplies needed by mountain men in the Gateway Arch and the Jefferson Na­ the Rocky Mountains. California and tional Expansion Memorial National Oregon-bound emigrants, anxious to pur­ Historic Site? Why was an arch built? Why is sue their dreams, purchased their covered the park located in St. Louis? These are all wagons and supplies here. Soldiers could frequent questions that the National Park be found milling about awaiting orders Service rangers are asked. The clues to the sending them to frontier army posts. From answers are in the name of the park. here their dreams of the westward trek became ' The first clue is "Memorial.'' As defined a reality. The original city site on the river­ in Webster's Dictionary, a memorial is front is the national historic site being com­ something that keeps remembrances alive memorated. or something that commemorates. The association members had a strong idea as © Art Grossmann Pholos Finally, why was an arch built? In to what they wanted the memorial to be: 1947-48 an architectural competition was The purpose of the Memorial is not only strong Custer. The memorial symbolizes held to determine the design of the to commemorate the past but also, and Bethenia Owens Adair's struggle to prac­ memorial. Eero Saarinen submitted the win­ especially, to keep alive in the present and tice medicine in Oregon, and Elinore P. ning entry. Born in 1910 in Kirkkonummi. in the future the daring and untrammelled Stewarts attempt to homestead by herself Finland. Saarinen moved with his family to spirit that inspired Thomas Jefferson...: the in Montana. the United States in 1922. His father. Eliel. spirit that moved pioneers and heroes of Ordinary folks were drawn to the was a prominent architect and in 1936 Eero thought and action from all the world to western reaches of our country, hoping for joined his father's firm — Saarinen, press westward with a constructive energy a better place to live, work and raise Saarinen and Associates. When the Jeffer­ and courage scarcely equalled in history; children. The park memorializes the strug­ son National Expansion Memorial competi­ the spirit that conceived and made possible gles and defeats, as well as the triumphs of tion was announced, both father and son the territorial integrity and national the people involved in the westward expan­ submitted designs. Eero's stainless steel greatness of the United States of America.'' sion movement. Think of Sacajawea. the Gateway Arch won over I 71 competitive This memorial was built to honor the young Indian guide, interpreter and mother entries. Saarinen submitted a design which people who left their eastern and who was the only woman to accompany the was simple, familiar.yet very unique and im­ midwestern lifestyles for the unknown Lewis and Clark Expedition. There were pressive. The Gateway Arch became the adventures awaiting them on the western homesteaders whose crops were symbol of pioneer spirit, the gateway to the frontier. Such people included carpenter devastated by weather, grasshopper West, and the memorial to Jefferson's James Marshall, who worked at Sutter's Fort plagues or prairie fires. Imagine the feeling dreams. in California. He found the first gold nug­ the overlanders felt at seeing 100 fresh As you gaze at this beautiful, immense get in 1848 — a discovery which altered graves in as many miles. These victims of 630-foot structure, take a minute to reflect the course of western history. William cholera epidemics and accidents never on exactly what the Gateway Arch is sym­ Ashley recruited young men to trap for realized their dreams. Put yourself in the bolizing. Think of Thomas Jefferson envi­ beaver pelts in the early 1820s and found­ place of the American Indian, agonizing sioning a continental nation. Think of ed the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. over diminishing buffalo herds and less pioneer women walking alongside covered William H. Jackson was an artist who im­ and less land on which to hunt and roam. wagons, mountain men trapping beaver, mortalized the Oregon Trail with his sket­ These are the people the Gateway Arch the explorer encountering grizzly bears ches. He was also the first photographer to commemorates. and a sodbuster living in her sod house. Im­ capture images of the Yellowstone region The second clue is "National Historic agine the excitement, anticipation, and fear. for the country to see. Then there was Site.'' "It is a national policy to preserve for Remember too the American Indian tradi­ Elizabeth Bacon, who was swept off her public use historic sites, buildings, and ob­ tional way of life which was drastically feet by a young, ambitious West Point jects of national significance for the inspira­ Ecro Saarinen altered by the impact of westward expan­ graduate. She accompanied her soldier tion and benefit of the people of the United sion. The Gateway Arch memorializes all husband to the frontier and spent her life States.'' decrees the National Historic Sites 1764 by Pierre Laclede and Auguste these things — the price paid, the energy defending his reputation after his con Act of 1935. The riverfront area was Chouteau as a fur trading post. In the late required, and the dreams realized in troversial death at the Battle of the Little chosen for the park because it is the 18th and early 19th centuries St. Louis settling the American West. Bighorn. He of course, was George Arm- original site of Old St. Louis, founded in played a significant role in westward expan­ —By Barb Consolo ' 621-9606 Hours Y It's not a fable. 736 So. Broadway 11:00 A.M. - 1:30 A.M. \ St. Louis, MO 63102 Lunch 11:00 A.M. - 3:00 P.M. In St. Louis' Forest Park 2 Blks So. of Busch Stadium Dinner 5:00 P.M. - 11:00 P.M. you will find in harmonious coexistence "The Original" andthe Broadway Oyster Bar BEAUTY BEASTS formerly Burkhardt's Oysters — R - in Season Dinner Specials Cajun Creole Cuisine Fresh Seafood Daily HAPPY HOUR 4 - 6 P.M. JAZZ & BLUES NIGHTLY FEATURING St. Louis' Hottest Live Entertainment 9 pm til Close No Cover Charge

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A Trial for Freedom

Dred Scott. The name sounds familiar to the visitor standing in the west hallway of the Old Courthouse. Memories of high school history class are stirred. Wasn't Dred Scott a slave who sued for his freedom? What was the outcome of his trial? For many visitors a few moments are needed to remember the particulars of the Dred Scott case. For others. March 6. 1857 is a date in American history which is hard to forget. On that date Supreme Court Chief Justice Roger B. Taney read the Court's decision in the Dred Scott case. The deci­ sion declared that because he was both a Negro and a slave Dred Scott was not a citizen of the United States and therefore had no right to sue in a court of law. The Missouri Compromise of 1820. which had prohibited slavery in the western territories, was declared unconstitutional on the Harriet and Dred Scott grounds that Congress did not have the power to pass legislation forbidding slavery. Such laws deprived citizens of their father. The doctor died soon afterwards, Mrs. Emerson then moved to In February 1856. almost lOyears after private property. The decision thus denied leaving the Scotts to his wife. Three years Massachusetts and married Dr. Calvin Clif­ the Scotts filed their initial suit, the case Scott's bid for freedom and returned him later the slaves began legal proceedings ford Chaffee, an abolitionist physician. was argued before the Supreme Court. to slavery. against Mrs. Emerson in pursuit of their When she left St. Louis her businessman After several consultations, the justices The lasting significance of this decision freedom. brother. John F. A. Sanford. took over her became deadlocked and ordered the case was its impact on the nation. It further How did Dred Scott, an illiterate slave, legal affairs. It was wrongly assumed from to be reargued at the next term, in divided Americans over the issue of know to sue for his freedom? All the details this time on that the ownership of the Scotts December 1856. slavery. This division eventually led to civil are not known, but strong evidence points to had been transferred from Mrs. Emerson to On March 4. 1857 James Buchanan was war between the southern and northern a white abolitionist lawyer. Francis Butter her brother John Sanford. sworn in as the 15th president of the sections of the country. Murdoch, and to Reverend John R. Ander­ The Missouri Supreme Court appeal United States. In his inaugural address he Dred and his wife Harriet probably did son, a former slave. Both men had lived in was heard in November 185 I and the court proclaimed that the Supreme Court would not realize how far-reaching the conse­ Alton. Illinois during the Elijah P. Lovejoy announced its decision in March 1852. soon hand down a decision that would set­ quences of their action would become abolition riots and murders. Murdoch had From all indications the case, as appealed, tle the slavery question once and for all. when they entered the St. Louis Court­ served as city attorney and Anderson had was still a genuine "freedom'' case. At this Nothing could have been further from the house on April 6. 1846 to file charges of operated Lovejoy's printing press. Both time, however, the Missouri Supreme Court truth. The Court's decision of March 6. trespass for false imprisonment against men moved to St. Louis, where Murdoch justices injected politics into the case. 1857. which deprived Negro slaves of their their owner, Irene Emerson. This procedure practiced law and Anderson was the pastor This was done in an effort to keep citizenship rights and nullified the Missouri had been followed many times before by of the Second African Baptist Church Missouri's antislavery Senator Thomas Hart Compromise, intensified the already ex­ Missouri slaves attempting to secure which Harriet Scott attended. It is possible Benton from winning re-election. His isting tension between the North and freedom. If Scott and his attorney could that Anderson convinced Murdoch to act enemies on the court hoped to crush Ben­ South. Violent reactions against the Court prove that Scott had lived for a time in free- as the Scotts' counsel. It was Murdoch who ton by overthrowing all past decisions based and against any more compromise resulted territories which prohibited slavery, the performed the required legal work to in­ on the Northwest Ordinance of 1787 in the bloodiest war this nation has known. state of Missouri would grant him and his itiate the suit, but he left for California which prohibited slavery. The supreme Shortly after Dred's final bid for family their freedom. before the case came to trial. court thus reversed Missouri's "once free freedom was denied, ownership of the always free" principle, reversed the lower It appeared to be an easy task. Dred Murdoch's departure left the Scotts Scotts was transferred to Taylor Blow, the court's decision, and sent Dred Scott back Scott had been born around 1800 in without a lawyer. At this time the sons and son of Peter Blow. On May 26. 1857 Dred into slavery. Virginia. His first owner. Peter Blow, settled sons-in-law of Peter Blow. Dred's former and Harriet Scott appeared in the St. Louis in St. Louis in 1830 and had brought Scott owner, helped with the suit. They posted On November 2. 1852 Dred Scott's Courthouse with Taylor Blow, who formally with him. Blow then sold Scott sometime bond, secured attorneys, and took over the new lawyer. Roswell Field, filed suit in freed them. They made their final official before 1833 to Dr. John Emerson, a physi­ process of seeking the Scotts' freedom. federal court against John F. A. Sanford. appearance in the building on May 4, 1848 cian residing in St. Louis. In December. The first trial occurred on lune 30. The assumption that Sanford now was the to receive licenses to remain in Missouri as 1833 Emerson began a military career as 1847. in a courtroom on the first floor, legal owner of the Scotts made the case- "free Negroes." Dred Scott died on an army doctor. He served at both Fort west wing of the St. Louis Courthouse. The eligible for the federal court system. Scott, September 17. 1858 after enjoying a little Armstrong at Rock Island. Illinois and at Scotts lost this case on a legal technicality. as a citizen of Missouri, suing Sanford. as a over I 5 months of freedom. He is buried in Fort Snelling in Minnesota, then a part of A motion for a new trial was granted but citizen of New York, created a federal case St. Louis' Calvary Cemetery. the Wisconsin Territory. Dred Scott was three long years passed before the second on the grounds of diversity of citizenship. Today, visitors to the Old Courthouse with Emerson at both forts until 1842. even trial occurred. On January 12. 1850. in the Dred Scott v. John F.A, Sqnford was can stand in the west hallway where the though slavery was prohibited in Illinois by same courtroom as the first trial, the se­ heard by the federal circuit court in a historic case had its beginnings. They can its state constitution and the Northwest Or­ cond trial was held and was decided in the rented room on the second floor of the view plaques bearing the portraits of Dred dinance of 1787. and in Minnesota by the Scotts' favor. Dred and Harriet Scott were Papin Building, which once stood near Scott and his family. The Scotts' faces are a Missouri Compromise of 1820. now free people. Their freedom was only where the north leg of the Arch is located reminder of the human dignity involved In 1842 Emerson was sent to Florida. temporary, however, for Mrs. Emerson ap­ today. The verdict returned was in in the case which began so simply, but He left his wife and Dred. now married to pealed the decision to the Missouri Sanford's favor. Field then appealed to the which caused so much tragedy. Harriet, in St. Louis with Mrs. Emerson's Supreme Court. United States Supreme Court. —by Jody Adkins INSIDE THE COURTHOUSE 7

Inside the The Old Old Courthouse Courthouse Sometimes a building becomes such New Orleans, and the Eero Saarinen, 1965 Business Core — Metered street Once the focal point of a populous Locust St. river's great basin territory was known Visitor Center and Museum of spaces; see map key for parking lots and as Louisiana. German parish, this baroque building garages. Westward Expansion (free): is being restored with community sup­ 27 Kiel Auditorium St. Louis was founded by Pierre de Summer — Daily 8 a.m. -10 p.m. Memorial Plaza — Metered street port and much volunteer labor. LaBeaume & Klein, 1934 Laclede in 1764 as a French trading Winter — Daily 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. spaces; lots, garages. center, but the east bank Illinois coun­ Gateway Arch Tram: Halls for expositions, conventions and try already had been transferred to Summer — Daily 8:30 a.m. - 21 Cupples Station concerts and municipal courtrooms are Parking Meters England, and the west bank territory, 9:30 p.m. Eames & Young, c. 1892 in this unit of Memorial Plaza devel­ Nickels —15 minutes; including St. Louis, to Spain. France Winter —Daily 9:30 a.m.- This harmonious group, originally opment. In a house at the rear of the quarters — 1 hour. later regained Louisiana, and Napoleon 5:30 p.m. 18 warehouses, was designed for rapid site, Frankie Baker killed her lover, sold it to the United States in the 1803 $1.50 adults, 504 children transfer of railroad freight by switching Allen Britt, in 1899, inspiring the More Information and Louisiana Purchase. The stars and cars into the basements. song, "Frankie and Johnny." stripes first flew over St. Louis on March The 630-foot stainless-steel Gateway Literature 10,1804. Arch, our tallest man-made national St. Louis Convention and Visitors Bu­ monument, is both an engineering feat 28 Robert Campbell The great river had eastern and reau, 421-1023. and a stirring symbol of St. Louis' role northern connections up the Ohio and House Downtown St. Louis, Inc., 621-5747. Illinois rivers, respectively. Its largest in the opening of the West. Displays William Fulton (?), 1851 St. Louis Visitors Center, 421-1799 tributary, the Missouri, stirred tantaliz­ in Visitor Center Museum interpret Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. or 241-1764. ing visions of a northwest passage to rich pioneer life. South leg of the arch rises Sunday 12 p.m. - 5 p.m. India trade as well as immediate access from the site of Pierre de Laclede's house (Closed January and February.) How to Find It Downtown to beaver pelts in the American West. and trading post. $2 adults, 504 children From all parts of the metropolitan Its strategic location made St. Louis for Within the plain exterior is one of the area, downtown St. Louis is easy to reach many years the market center for the 2 The Levee rare museum houses in which all fur­ — a convenient place to shop, eat, work, fur trade and the provisioning point for For much of the 19th-century, the nishings are original with the family and live and be entertained. western travel, exploration and settle­ riverfront was a forest of smokestacks true to their period. Campbell was a The map shows attractions and ac­ ment — the Gateway to the West. with steamboats moored two and three prosperous fur trader, and his opulent tivity centers, principal highways and The original village of St. Louis was deep. Belgian-block paving provided 22 City Hall residence is the only survivor of old bridges, how streets are numbered (and within the present site of the Jefferson footholds for dray horses and stabilized Lucas Place. Two recluse sons kept which are one-way), where to find National Expansion Memorial, but its the slope. The levee served as an open Eckel & Mann, Harvey Ellis, 1896 everything intact for a half century. 42,000 off-street parking spaces, and blocks were soon extended north into warehouse piled with cargo that some­ Weber & Groves, interior court where to buy gasoline. the Laclede's Landing area — where the how found its way to the right boat or The Paris Hotel de Ville was the in­ Bi-State bus lines of the entire met­ streets retain their original steep slope wagon. Though not so picturesque, to­ spiration for this competition-winning ropolitan area converge on downtown. to the levee — and to the south of the day's barges carry more tonnage than design. A spectacular feature is the four- Bus routing information can be ob­ Poplar Street Bridge. A Spanish pali­ steamboats at their peak. Adjoining museum open daily. and murals by Carl Wimar. Historical American Bowling Congress and Wom­ $3 bills-. From the internationally story interior court with two grand tained Monday through Friday by call­ sade was built around the village with 5 Goldenrod Showboat 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Admission 254 exhibits in first-floor rooms. en's International Bowling Congress Hall distinguished numismatic collection of marble staircases. ing 231-2345. The same area is served stone corner towers and a main tower Capt. W. R. Markle, 1909 The first cathedral west of the Mis­ of Fame. Eric P. Newman. Podium level of the by several taxicab companies. at approximately 4th and Walnut streets, After years of entertaining river towns, sissippi, its site reserved by Laclede in 10 Kiener Plaza Mercantile Tower. Terminals of Greyhound and Trail- ways buses and Amtrak trains are con­ site of Fort San Carlos. the Goldenrod tied up in St. Louis in 1764. Two log churches and a brick ca­ Early roads converged on this block 13 Eugene Field House 23 Gateway Merchandise veniently located. Air travelers in and The Creole settlers built houses of 1937 and today presents musical re­ thedral preceded this building which with its easy Market St. slope to the levee Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. 16 555 Washington square-hewn vertical logs, plastered and views and ragtime. Buffet dinners. stimulated Greek Revival style in this out of Lambert St. Louis International and old riverfront city market. West­ Sunday 12-5 p.m. Mart Airport, 14 miles northwest of down­ whitewashed, with steep hip roofs that region. Its rank of minor basilica, be­ ward travel over St. Charles Rock Road $1 adults, 504 children Avenue Isaac S. Taylor, 1888 projected over broad porches. Each stowed by Pope John XXIII, recognizes town, have excellent taxi and limousine 6 First Street Forum to cross-state Boone's Lick Road began The boyhood home of the "children's Dollar Store, Lee & Annan, Washington Ave. became a wholesale service into the city. Travelers by private household had the use of a common early service as mother church to the here. Plaza and fountain (The Runner, poet" is now a children's museum of his before 1875; Weber & Groves, Tuesday-Saturday 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. center with loft factories once the rail­ plane can save time by using Bi-State field, a strip about 192.5 feet by 1.5 miles, Middle West. William Zorach) draw visitors and of­ toy and doll collections, some manu­ renovation, 1898 extending west to present Jefferson Ave. Sunday (April-September) 1-5 p.m. roads could cross the river on Eads Parks Airport in Illinois, 3.5 miles south fice workers for sack lunches and scripts. Most furnishings are from Field's Ackley Building, 1876 The settlers shared large outlying com­ Bridge. This splendid Romanesque of downtown. Exhibitions of up to two months often sunning. Chicago home. This was one in a 12- 29 St. John's Catholic mons, bordered by rail fences, for 3 Eads Bridge Thomas Market, Hatch & Miller, warehouse, built for Liggett & Meyers Street addresses make any down­ are complemented by related perfor­ house row of c. 1845; the other units Tobacco Co., was one of many that pro­ Church woodcutting and stock grazing. James Buchanan Eads, 1874 mances and lectures in this non-profit 1888 town location easy to find. Most north- were razed in 1936. claimed the city's new commercial em­ Patrick Walsh, John Mitchell, 1860 After the great fire of 1849 destroyed This was the world's first steel truss art and cultural center on the first floor 11 Sports Hall of Rime This group of dilapidated but hand­ south streets are numbered according inence. It rises from a massive granite From the Old Cathedral's decline un­ all that remained of the Creole build­ bridge and the first in the United States of Raeder Place. Daily 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. some buildings is the sole survivor of to how many blocks they are from the 14 Mercantile Library base in bold compositions of granite, til 1886, this was the St. Louis pro-ca­ river and are designated "north" or ings in the riverfront blocks, the area to have piers built within pneumatic $2 adults, $1 children the Washington Ave. retail district that was developed after the opening of Eads brick and terra-cotta. thedral. After that, masses were mainly "south" with Market St. the dividing line. was rebuilt with warehouses and com­ caissons. Its chrome steel was an in­ Great players and events of baseball, Henry G. Isaacs, 1889 Bridge in 1874. The Ackley has one of for downtown workers. It was refur­ For example, 801 N. 11th St. is eight mercial buildings that made extensive novative material. The steamboat was 7 Laclede's Landing football, hockey, tennis, golf and other Monday-Friday 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. the city's few iron fronts. Restoration bished when the area was redeveloped blocks north of Market and 11 blocks west use of the new technology of iron in­ doomed when railroads reached St. A 19th century warehouse district on 9 Old Courthouse sports are commemorated in lower-level On the 6th floor of the 510 Locust 24 Soldiers' Memorial terior columns and ornamental cast-iron hall of Busch Stadium. Equipment, Bldg., this subscription library holds an for offices and shops has begun for 1986 for apartments. of the river. East-west streets are named, Louis via the now unused lower deck original granite-paved levee slope Henry Singleton, Robert S. Mitchell, opening. & Museum and blocks are numbered progressively facades. All these buildings were re­ joined to south-side yards by a tunnel adapted to restaurants, offices, galler­ uniforms, trophies, photos, films, well- outstanding collection of Western Mauran, Russell and Crowell and moved in clearance for the Jefferson William Rumbold, 1839-1862 stocked souvenir shop. Americana. Its rooms have been little from the river. So, 705 Olive St. is in under 8th St. ies and entertainment. Region's most Preston J. Bradshaw, 1938 30 Centenary United the 700 block, between 7th and 8th Sts. Memorial and construction of the Gate­ notable iron facade at 1st and Morgan. Daily, 8 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. changed in this century. 17 Union Market way Arch, but some of the same build­ In various periods until 1930, city, Daily 9 a.m. -4:30 p.m. Methodist Church The map shows, along Market St., the 4 The Admiral 12 National Bowling Hall Building Thomas Dixon, J. B. Legg, 1871 ing types survive in the Laclede's county, state and federal courts were 15 Mercantile Money Military personnel who gave their addresses of east-west blocks, and on Landing blocks. Mazie Krebs, 1940 8 Old Cathedral convened in this and earlier buildings of Fame and Museum E. E. Christopher, 1925 lives in both world wars are commem­ Monday-Friday 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. Tucker Blvd. (formerly 12th St.) the ad­ The vacant mooring south of Eads on the site. The first two trials of the Daily 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Museum Markets occupied this and a previous orated here and in the Court of Honor. One of the city's first Protestant dresses of north-south blocks. Bridge awaits the return of the biggest Joseph C. Laveille and George historic Dred Scott slavery case were in $3 adults, $1.50 children Monday-Friday (except holidays) building from 1866 until 1982 when a The museum displays military artifacts churches, the "Catheral of Methodism Where seasonal changes are river excursion boat ever built. The Morton, 1834 the west wing. Rumbold's iron dome, a Traces the history of bowling from 9 a.m. -4 p.m. study of new uses was begun. Planned and memorabilia. Memorial Plaza was in St. Louis" dates from 1821. It has been Published by Downtown St. Louis, Inc. indicated in admission schedules, streamlined Art Deco craft is to be re­ Cathedral open daily. year older than the U.S. Capitol dome, 5200 B.C. to present. Hands-on com­ Exhibits from the history of coins and renovation calls for continuation of developed between 1923 and 1960 as a a potent downtown influence. The white- ©Copyright 1984, written by George "summer" is Memorial Day to conditioned for permanent docking as Summer — 6:30 a.m. - 9 p.m. was an engineering innovation. The ro­ puterized games, turn-of-the-century paper money with rare misprints, market function, addition of restau­ civic-center replacement for blocks of walled auditorium with black walnut McCue, retired art and urban design Labor Day, inclusive. an amusement and shopping attraction. Winter — 6:30 a.m. - 5 p.m. tunda, 161 feet high, has four galleries and modern bowling lanes and the counterfeit specimens — and genuine rants and shops. shabby buildings. woodwork is on the upper level. critic, St. Louis Post-Dispatch. WESTWARD EXPANSION 10 ticularly none of waterways. The near half The Westering of the West was broad grasslands which would soon be labeled "the great American desert." unfit for agriculture. The far half Man was mountainous with a fertile, hospitable coast. Thomas Jefferson President Jefferson foresaw little im­ mediate need for the Upper Louisiana Ter­ At the entrance to the Museum of ritory, expecially after he found that no Westward Expansion stands a statue of commerce across it with the Pacific could Thomas Jefferson. His gaze turns west, be effected. He envisioned the area as an west from the Mississippi, west along the exclusively Indian territory where their Missouri, west across the Stony Moun­ societies could gradually and peacefully tains, west down the Columbia to the learn to live on less land and learn to take Pacific. up livelihoods which would fit in with the Casually he stands, undaunted by the American main culture. Eventually. Jeffer­ scope, accepting the vastness and the son thought, the Indians would be able to grandeur, contemplating the potential. be assimilated into American society. The eyes of Thomas Jefferson first turn­ By the last year of Jefferson's presiden ed west when he was a private citizen of the cy. Indians from east of the Mississippi had 18th century, a member of its in­ begun to move west. Most notable were tellectual elite, a member of the American the Cherokee, a people Jefferson had Philosphical Society of Philadelphia. These known and admired since his childhood. It fellows of the sciences looked upon the would take until 1840 before "removal" vast unknown and sought knowledge, was substantially completed. Difficult as it knowledge that would fortify opportunity, was. removal of the Indians from east of opportunity that would open to progress. the Mississippi to west of it was ac­ progress that would lead to improvement complished. Removal of the white residents of the human condition. They looked west. from the Upper Louisiana, in order to leave With the dawn of the 19th cen­ it wholly to the Indians, proved to be inef­ tury, the gaze of Thomas Jefferson could fectual. But. more significantly, it proved to turn west in an official capacity. In 1801. be impossible to hold back the ever wester­ Jefferson assumed the presidency of the ing flood of emigration into the newly ac­ young United States which he had been so quired territory. instrumental in establishing. The country By 1820. the foreseeable settlement of loomed large, brash, ambitious. It was. the West demanded that plans be made for however, vulnerable on its western boun­ dividing the area into territories which dary, as long as another nation controlled .could eventually become states. Ominously the Mississippi River. a trattle arose over whether those states Thomas Jefferson had prepared himself could endorse slavery. With the Missouri well for leading his people with regard to Compromise of 1820. the Congress pro­ their western interests. He had researched vided that any state carved out of the ter­ and built a significant library of writings ritories below the 36° 30' latitude could and maps on the American West, materials enter as a slave state; those above the line in French. Spanish and English. There was would be free states. Missouri, however, not enough known about the land west of was allowed to enter as a slave state. the Mississippi, however, to satisfy Thomas With the passage of the Missouri Com­ Jefferson. He convinced Congress to fund a promise. Thomas Jefferson wrote to a Corps of Discovery to travel up the friend, "...the firebell in the night awakened Missouri, find its origin, and locate, if and filled me with terror." He feared that possible, connections to rivers leading to the extension of the "infamous practice" of the Pacific. Meanwhile, negotiations were slavery into the West would only serve to taking place by Americans in France to further drive in the wedge that would be secure American access to the Mississippi the death knell of the Union. The question River. sure access to the Mississippi. Citizen- munication with the waters of the Pacific of individual rights (slavery) versus state's With unexpected good fortune. Presi­ scholar Jefferson saw the fulfillment of a ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregon. Col­ rights did, of course, result in a terrible dent Jefferson and Congress found that dream to explore and to come to know the orado, or any other river may offer the clash of forces in the United States, but Jef­ France was offering tor sale its large tract American West. Political philosopher Jeffer­ most direct and practicable water com­ ferson's beloved Union stood. of land west of the IWssissippi. the Loui­ son saw another step taken in the fulfill­ munication across this continent for the When the death bell rang for Thomas siana Territory. The offer presented the ment of a dream of a nation which would purposes of commerce .... Jefferson on July 4. 1826. the United States United States the opportunity to double its span the continent from coast to coast with — draw maps, chart longitudes and was well on its way to fulfilling Jefferson's size without going to war. to secure the a government nurtured from "the nest latitudes, makeyourself acquainted with the continental dream for it. The West and East Mississippi River, and to have a reserve of from which all America(s), North and names of the nations and their numbers, Floridas were part of the United States by land and other resources with "conse­ South, is to be peopled." their languages, customs, etc.... 1819. In a little over 30 more years, the quences" which would "extend to the most Spring 1804. The Corps of Discovery — notice the soil, its growth and southwestern, western and northwestern distant posterity." headed by Meriwether Lewis and William vegetable productions, present animals and sections of the present day continental For the first time, the nation considered Clark sat in Illinois across from the mouth evidence of extinct ones.... states would follow. None of the areas were the advisability of an expansionist of the Missouri. They were preparing to — Treat the natives in the most friendly added with the political finesseof the Loui­ philosophy. Questions of the constitutionali­ embody the spirit and mind of Thomas Jef­ manner... siana Purchase, however. But each were ad­ ded with increased tribute to the man who ty of such an act arose. Questions of how ferson and carry them west, west across the TH. J. PR. U.S. of A. to pay for such a purchase occupied much plains, west across the mountains, west to saw the destiny of the American republic discussion. Questions of ability to govern the Pacific. In part. Jefferson's instructions reaching from coast to coast. the "distant" land seemed reasonable. Jef­ to them read: January 1807. Lewis reported to Con­ John Adams, who died just hours ferson convinced Congress to act on the gress and the president on approximately before Jefferson on that Fourth of July, offer, to make the purchase and deal with To Captain Meriwether Lewis, esq. Capt of 8.000 miles of experience. Eventually, jour­ thought Jefferson had out-lived him and the details later. For Jefferson, no question the 1st regimt of Infantry of the U.S. of A. nals of the expedition would be published, said in his final moments. Thomas Jeffer­ of why prevailed, no question of how to maps would be printed. Thomas Jefferson son still lives." Figuratively. Adams was cor­ seemed a worthy deterrent. The object of your mission is to explore finally knew the American West. Plans rect. Thomas Jefferson still lives, not only in In the Louisiana Purchase. President Jef­ the Missouri River, and such principal could be made. memory, but in the spirit of America. ferson saw a secure western border and stream of it, as. by its course and com­ No easy northwest passage existed, par­ —by Paul F. Sullivan INSIDE THE MUSEUM 11

Inside the Museum of Westward Expansion

History satisfies a fundamental human need. All of us need our past to help us define our sense of self. In the Museum of Westward Expansion we are reminded of the western history which shaped so many of our collective American characteristics. Barbed wire, sunbonnets and a plow remind us of the work involved with settling the West. Buffalo, long-horned cattle and beavers remind us of the bountiful animal life once on the land. Tipis. lances and eagle-feathered headresses remind us of a past culture — the casualty of progress. Walk through the museum to sense the past. Your sense of self will be heightened by the western faces, material belong­ ings, and homes which remind you of your own individual past.

"We had proceeded only a few days' travel, when the American character was fully exhibited. All appeared to be determined to govern, but not to be governed...." Lansford W. Hastings, overlander RANGER PROGRAMS 12

Two of the most frequently asked questions at the Museum of Westward Expan­ sion are: "When is the next tour?" and "Where should we start?" Throughout the day. National Park Service rangers and volunteers provide the answers to these questions by offering scheduled interpretive programs and tours.

A Westward Journey "Journey through the West" is a general tour of the museum offered daily. By spend­ ing an hour with a ranger you can get an understanding of how the museum is designed and the interrelationships of the differing peoples who lived in the West. While journeying you can feel a buffalo hide, learn to trap a beaver, or handle a ri­ fle. You can also learn a blessing in Indian sign language or try to spin a whimmydid- dle both ways. Are these skills you would need to perfect if you lived in the West? Perhaps. By joining a ranger for a "lourney through the West" you can travel the West and unlock its secrets, lourney with us!

The Old Courthouse Going Overland Beckons Imagine traveling more than 2.000 miles overland in a covered wagon jammed » You must come and tour the Old Court­ with all those "necessities" to start a new house. This superb building was once the life. A few extra items are "memories" of most magnificent "Temple of Justice" west the life left behind. Which belongings do of the Mississippi. Historical courtrooms you take? Is it necessary to bring along recall the administration of justice that set­ your grandmother's guilt or your sister's tled the land and ruled the West. Visitors doll? from around the world admire with Beginning in the 1840s families headed aesthetic "ahs" the courthouse's collossal to Oregon and California for better land masonry works, cast iron columns and and homes. What were the experiences of durable limestone floors. Even the these people as they undertook this Explorers and Exploration basements beg a question. Were there ever westward journey? Learn about the every­ jail cells, torture chambers, dungeons and secret tunnels here? day occurrences of trail life by hearing Captain Meriwether Lewis . . . Major with official United States government ex­ about Helen Carpenter, a young overlander. General Gouverneur Kemble Warren . . . peditions or private, profit-seeking groups, Come and view with spell-bound- Hear how Heinrich Lienhard survived the Lieutenant William Clark . . . Major lohn these men mapped and charted the land verbosity the two mystical, incomprehensi­ journey with the aid of Indians who fed him Wesley Powell . . . Major Steven Harriman west of the Mississippi River. They wrote ble spiral staircases. One of them leads to roots. Long . . . Ferdinand Vandeveer Hayden volumes of journals containing information the top of the 256.000 lb. cast iron dome, The challenge of 19th century . . . Lieutenant Zebulon Montgomery about the plants, animals and American In­ an acclaimed ornamental masterpiece. The transcontinental immigration can still be ex­ Pike . . . dians who lived on the land. artistic works of Carl Wimar and Ettore perienced in the Museum of Westward Ex­ Do you recognize these names? These You can retrace the western travels of Miragoli which bedeck the dome walls are pansion. Ask yourself. "Would I have gone men and many others explored the area in these explorers by joining a National Park breathtakingly unique and endlessly ex­ on such a journey in an effort to improve the United States from the Mississippi River Service ranger or a volunteer on an inter­ quisite. my life?" Perhaps you will be able to answer to the Pacific Ocean and from the Canadian pretive program in the Museum of Come and experience this building this question after attending a ranger-led border to the Mexican border. Whether Westward Expansion. which contains the spirit of St. Louis, the program on the overlanders. State of the Union and the way of the West. Ftonaynes

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ON LACLEDE'S LANDING JUST NORTH OF THE ARCH Shopping Under The Arch

The Museum Shop under the Gateway Arch is an exciting place to discover western history. The shop offers "specialty" items which evoke the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial's theme. The items are special in the sense that they offer visitors information about America's western expansion or they serve as mementos of a visit to the Gateway Arch.

Today you can choose from 600-700 books and magazines ranging in topics from the American Indians to folklore to national parks. The shop not only offers western history, but publications on St. Louis and Missouri history as well. A children's section features Laura Ingalls Wilder's Little House on the Prairie books among others. The Museum Shop is rapidly earning a reputation for offering western-themed publications which are hard to find in other St. Louis area book stores.

Visitors to the Museum Shop may also purchase one-of-a-kind Indian rugs, pieces of jewelry and pottery. Jefferson National The rugs are individually handwoven Expansion Memorial, by women from the Navajo reservation the Gateway Arch in New Mexico, Arizona, Utah and Colorado. An example of this type of and Old Courthouse, rug is the "Ganado Red," which hangs commemorates not only the past in the Museum Shop. By looking at the rug's design you can determine where it but continues to inspire was woven. The "Ganado Red" rug that daring and spirit was thus woven in Ganado, Arizona. which moved pioneers and heroes to press westward with Members of the Zuni, Navajo and Hopi tribes created the individual a constructive energy and courage pieces of jewelry which are available scarcely equalled in history. for purchase in the shop. Earrings, rings, bolo ties, necklaces, bracelets Help us keep that spirit alive! and pins are hand-crafted in silver, turquoise and coral. Become a Friend of the Arch today Friends of the Arch i •for all the yesterdays Pieces of pottery, some of which are 11 North 4th St. St. Louis, MO 63102 that inspire our tomorrows. signed by the artist, are also one-of-a- kind works. All of the rugs, jewelry and pottery are selected on the Photo by Art Grossmann 1981 reservations for eventual sale in the shop. I am interested in finding out more about about Browsing is always encouraged in Friends of the Arch. Please send me Name the Museum Shop. It is a comfortable — more information about Friends of the place where you can choose reading Arch Address material to last the winter, post-cards — a free calendar of Arch and Old Courthouse to mail to friends and family, or hand­ events City State Zip crafted pieces to wear or display — a complimentary Friends of the Arch proudly. It is also a place where history Newsletter Phone( ) is offered on every shelf. Clip and mail to: Friends of the Arch, 11 North 4th Street St. Louis, MO 63102 Mak^ Reservations for 1886. Instead of dining in another restaurant Of course, no riverboat would be complete tonight, step on board the Lt. Robert E. Lee. without a dinner theater. Our Natchez River And dine in another century. Just like the Revue famed paddlewheelers of Mark Twain's day, features six the Lt. Robert E. Lee's three dining rooms will of the most take you on a stylish journey from appetizer to talented dessert. Without ever leaving port. On the young Seafood Deck, our delicious seafood and fresh performers fish will make your mouth water. Starting with this side of succulent the King Crab Legs Mississippi. on ice. Or our As well as Prime Rib, famous Pot Shrimp of Steamed Creole, Clams. Entrees Chicken Cordon Bleu and Fresh Fish. Call for include showtimes and reservations. Lobster And for private parties of up to 14, the Thermidor, Wheelhouse will make you feel like you're Jumbo seated at the captains table. Exquisite silver, Shrimp, fine china and 5-course gourmet meals are all Bouilla­ standard fare. baisse, and So come to a restaurant where the past is Swordfish. And for dessert, nothing could be still very much present. Make reservations on finer than a selection from our tempting tray of the Lt. Robert E. Lee. You'll see that 1886 was desserts. a very good year. You'll also love the Open 7 days for lunch and hearty cuts of Prime Rib, dinner. Complete banquet juicy steaks, and fabulous facilities are available for Fresh Fish in the private functions and profes­ Sternwheeler. sional meetings. The Lt. Robert E. Lee has seating capacity up to 500 with com­ bined rooms, making it perfect for weddings, recep­ tions, and other special occa­ sions. 10: ^ROBERT Eo CEE On The Levee, St. Louis 241-1282