© Lonely Planet Publications 234 lonelyplanet.com GRANDE COMORE •• History 235 Aside from being the largest island at GRANDE COMORE 60km by 20km, Grande Comore is also the Comoros most economically developed of the three pop 360,000 independent islands that make up the Union The biggest (and most politically bullying) des Comores. Grande Comore (known as of the three islands, Grande Comore is also Ngazidja by the Comorians) wields the most dominated by the largest active volcano in political power of the three islands from the the world, Mt Karthala (2360m) – over the seat of its handsome main town, Moroni. The Haphazardly scattered across the Indian Ocean, the mysterious, outrageous and enchanting last 200 years it has consistently erupted once island is fringed by solidified lava and sandy Comoros islands are the kind of place you go to just drop off the planet for a while. Far every 11 years on average. The last eruption beaches of various hues, where brilliant white removed from the clutter that comes with conventional paradises – sprawling hotels, neon spewed lava for a full 14 days in December meets dark volcanic grey and molten black. discos – the Comoros are so remote even an international fugitive could hide out here. 2005. It flattened villages, contaminated What little agricultural land is still available drinking water and killed at least one child. is found in the south, where there are ba- COMOROS Rich in Swahili culture, and devoutly Muslim, the charming inhabitants come from a This came on the heels of the tourism crisis of nana, breadfruit, cassava, vanilla, ylang-ylang legendary stock of Arab traders, Persian sultans, African slaves and Portuguese pirates. The 2002, when the islands’ switch to a new consti- and coconut plantations. Most of the island’s four developed islands offer everything from relaxing on white-sand beaches by turquoise tution had foreign state departments warning population and activity is concentrated on COMOROS COMOROS seas to hiking through rainforests on the lookout for giant bats. people to steer clear for a while. Mt Karthala’s the west coast. The sparsely populated and eruption only further decimated the island’s dramatically beautiful east coast remains quiet Nicknamed ‘Cloud Coup-Coup’ land because of their crazy politics, the three independent already struggling tourism industry. This is a and traditional, with only a few tiny thatched- islands (the fourth, Mayotte, is still a part of France) have experienced almost 20 coups since shame, because two years after the explosion hut villages. Couples looking for a simple but Grande Comore has picked up the pieces. romantic holiday away from everyone else gaining independence in 1975! In fact, a Comorian president is lucky if there’s time for his And the good news that has come out of the will like it here. official portrait to be taken before armed men are once again knocking on the door. In the volcano’s latest blast is the spectacular desert last decade, however, the quarrelsome tiff-prone independent islands agreed to put their landscape it created on the mountain – the History differences aside and fly under the joint banner of the Union des Comores. hiking is particularly fantastic, and unique, For information on the history of the Co- these days. moros, see p29 . Holidaying in the Comoros isn’t for everyone; travel will kick your arse at times. But it teaches lessons in patience, humility and resilience. Everything moves mora mora (slowly slowly) and 0 60 km THE COMOROS 0 40 miles tourism facilities are far from plush. Islam, and all its traditions, is evident everywhere. Women are expected to show modesty and cover up, and alcohol is a no-no for both sexes. Mitsamiouli Grande But if your idea of the perfect holiday is less about drinking rum punch in a skimpy bi- Comore kini at a swank resort, and more about long, lazy days sipping tea and talking politics with I N D I A N Hayahaya Airport the locals, then a safari in the exotic Comoros will probably be the kind of unpredictable, O C E A N swashbuckling adventure you’ve been craving. Moroni U N I O N D E S Foumboni C O M O R E S Ferries HIGHLIGHTS Ferries Wandering the labyrinthine stone streets of Anjouan Moroni’s old Arab quarter ( p241 ) Moroni Ferries Mutsamudu Exploring the smallest, wildest and most interest- Sima ing Comore, Mohéli ( p245 ), with fabulous beaches Fomboni Domoni Moya and turquoise seas Mt Karthala Nioumachoua Anjouan Mohéli (FRANCE) Hiking through the cool, misty highlands and Mohéli clove and ylang-ylang scented beachside planta- tions of Anjouan ( p249 ) M A Y O T T E Swimming with sea turtles off the coast of Mayotte in Sazilé Mozambique Channel Mamoudzou ( p261 ) Petite Terre Sazilé Grande (Pamandzi) Camping in the desert landscape created by the 2005 eruption of Mt Karthala UNION DES COMORES Terre Dzaoudzi ( p237 ) Ngoudja HIGHEST POINT: 2360m PRINCIPAL LANGUAGES: Arabic, French, Shimashiwa (Swahili) COLLECTIVITÉ TERRITORIALE DE MAYOTTE 236 GRANDE COMORE lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GRANDE COMORE •• Orientation 237 0 10 km Orientation dollars) to get a taxi to your hotel and to last GRANDE COMORE 0 6 miles Grande Comore’s Prince Saíd Ibrahim Air- until you get to a bank. ACB D port lies about 19km north of Moroni, the El Maarouf Hospital (Map p240 ; %73 26 04; Rte Ma- capital, in the village of Hayahaya. Boats ar- goudjou, Moroni) has been revamped with a large riving in Grande Comore come into the port injection of overseas aid, and is now just about 4 3 Lac Salé in central Moroni. Moroni is the only place on acceptable for minor medical problems al- 1 Bangoi- ὄὄὄMitsamiouli Kouni Goula'ivoini the island with any real infrastructure, but tar- though it still routinely runs out of plasters mac roads in reasonably good condition run and medicine. If you can’t get to the hospital, N'Droude around the perimeter of the island, with those and you are badly hurt, you can try ringing in the north being in the best condition. the police (Map p240 ; %74 46 63; Ave des Ministères, Koua Hantsindzi After a short time travelling around Grande Moroni) for help. They are also useful for non- Comore, you will notice one annoying factor: medical emergencies. You should have travel Simboussa ὄὄὄMaouéni there are no signposts anywhere. To know insurance, as any major medical problems will COMOROS N'Tsaouéni Moidja 2 where you are and where you are going, you require you to be airlifted to South Africa. Dimadjou Bambadjani 2 Ivembéni will have to guess, follow a detailed map or (1084m) Bouni 1 keep asking people. Activities COMOROS COMOROS RN1 La M'béni Grande Comore’s water activities are pretty Grille Bangohozi Touaifa (830m) Touadzaha (860m) Information much limited to the dive company listed here, ὄ ὄ Grande Comore, like the other islands in the but the island is home to some good swim- Prince Said group, is overwhelmingly (and tolerantly) Mus- ming beaches and fabulous volcano hikes. Ibrahim Airport RN3 lim. Visitors are asked to dress modestly when Hayahaya G r a n d e away from the beach, meaning no shorts or DIVING C o m o r e SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES low-cut tops for women, and no bare-chested Grande Comore is the only island of the in- Itsihoudi Comores Vanille et Plantes.......1 C2 3 Mosquée Djumbe Foumou.......2 B2 men. Topless swimming or sunbathing are not dependent Comoros that has a proper dive Mosquée Miraculeuse...............3 B1 acceptable. During the holy month of Ramadan centre. Itsandra Plongée (off Map p240 ; %73 29 76; Trou du Prophète.....................4 B1 ὄVoidjou M'Tsamdou (see p266 ), the population of the Comoros fasts [email protected]; 1 dive/5 dives CF20,000/75,300, NAUI Koimbani from dawn to dusk and most restaurants are Open Water course CF115,000), based on the beach in Bahani Chomoni closed. Shops and other businesses open earlier the village of Itsandra, is French-run and by Hatsambou Ntsudjini and close earlier during this period as well, all accounts fairly reputable. It’s not always Lac especially on Fridays. Travellers should respect open, however, so it’s best to ring or email Itsandra Hantsangoma the sensibilities of the population and refrain them in advance. ὄ RN3 I N D I A N from eating, drinking or smoking in public 4 during daylight hours. During the rest of the HIKING O C E A N Moroni Idjikoundzi year, nearly everything in the Comoros shuts Grande Comore has some very reward- M'vouni Tsangadjou down between Friday afternoon and Monday ing hikes, including to Mt Karthala and La Mt Karthala morning – be prepared. Grille. Mikazi (2360m) Iconi Grande Comore has telephone and postal ὄ Boboni services in the larger cities. The island also Mt Karthala Pidjani boasts a limited, but growing, mobile phone This is one of the world’s most active vol- Ferry Bandamadji network. Note that even with a local SIM card canoes and forms the base for much of the Tsinmoipanga calls are still very expensive. There are now island. The volcano last erupted in 2005, 5 Mitsoudjé Nioumbadjou internet cafés all around the island, not just which was both tragic – one child died and in Moroni ( p239 ), although whether they are villages were damaged – but also beautiful, open depends on whether Grande Comore as its lava carved a stupendous desert out of Singani RN2 has any power, which is never a given. the mountain landscape. It’s possible to climb 1977 Lava Flow Kourani The BIC (%73 12 04; Pl de France) in Moroni can Mt Karthala in a very long day, but it’s much Foumboni Dembéni change cash and travellers cheques and does more fun to carry camping equipment and Mindralou Visa cash advances when the phone lines are spend a day or two exploring the summit.