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AUGUST 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN How to Top events stay cool and places to be Our pick of the best in Turin seasonal trends

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

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RELLI SALES SUPPORT MANAGER WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN VIA BORGARO AUGUST 2019 VIA SARGIO ERRICO AN V PARCO V I A V I I Bosco BIO C O R S O T A R A N T O BARRIERA GIACHINO VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLE BIB RTO CORSO LOMBARDIA C O R S O T O S C A N A GUB ELLA SALUTE VIA BORSI L VIA VIA MO MA How to V I A LEMME Paola Grilli ([email protected]) BORGATA O MA IA T Top events A ESA D DI STURA

VI SSAIA and experimentation and places to be V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A T I C I N O CHI V I A A S S I S I stay cool V I A F O R L I ’ VIA Our pick of the best M A SI ICHELE VI CORSO GIULIO CESARE seasonal trends VIA LAURO ROSSI in Turin FRASSATI VIA RENA VIA A NT V E N E Z A VIA GOTTARDO V I A V E R O L E N G O A G.TARTINI ONIO VIBO’ Piazza Chiesa della Salute ROS VI TOP IN TOWN THE REGGE SABAUDE VIA CERESOLE 4 18 V AS I T R A D E L A PIAZZA combine daily to give life E TE VIA VEROLENGO HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER N E ANCINA GHIRLANDAIO V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O L PIAZZA CORSO VERCELLI THIA’ ENEZIA MONT N Parco della Conuenza V VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE CORSO VIA BOCCARDO SA VIA VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Parco Aurelio VIA GASPARI SPONTINI VIA Maria Granata ([email protected]) CORSO A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENA Enjoy the city, starting Some of the best examples Peccei to customized cocktails. VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLE S O T T O PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O CIGNA

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VIA LEINI VIA CERVINO VIA ALESSANDRO CRUTO A B O L O G N C M I I PO In addition to a selection of rare and beautiful works, RELLA BARRIERA V & MUSEUMSCORSO VENEZIA Teatro Monterosa Centro Piero A VIA BALTEA SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS D O R A R I P A R I A VIA SOAN A VIA ERRICO PETRELLA PIAZZALE SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN R O S A della Francesca PIAZZA DELLA DORA LIGURIA Stazione Torino Dora GTT VIA GIOVANNI PAISIELLO VIA MADDALENE Turin’s Royal Library (below) hosts severable priceless V I A P CORSO VERCELLI VIA ALESSANDRO SCARLAT TI AUGUSTO CROCE DI MILANO O REGIO PARCO PIAZZA ROSTAGNI ROSSA REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 A Z Z E N A I P A I V Turin’sGENERALE Egyptian Museum RS Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp ANTONIO C O R S O V I G E V A N O Giardini del COVER E LLA CO manuscripts by Leonardo da Vinci, including his VIA PIETRO COSSA BALDISSERA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA Parrocchia EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 O C I G N A VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene HOT DATES DISCOVERING A NV I T O CON ECI C H I RSO GIULIO CESARE 8 20 C O UROS M A BRI PIAZZA CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI CEC C O R S O V I G E V A N O Della Pace C O R S O U M B R I A FRANCESCO DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH ANTONELLO MARANGI O VIA ERRICO PETR ‘Codex on the Flight of Birds’ (on the right), featuring CO is a star of the museum CRISPI VIA SANTHIA’

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E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina E LUIGI DAMIANO Parco del Meisino Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I A LARGO VIA CUNEO R E G I O VIA PISTOIA VI BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O and local attractions.Mario Carrara cuisine and marvelous landscapes. A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI RSO in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA 44 ESSENTIALS VIA TOLLEGO CO LIVORNO VIA BRA A CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VI VIA CREMONA VIA FOSSANO A like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO IELL VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O VIA NOVI V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S B Information and tips VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO published in the next issue. LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO I A V PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O CORSO SVIZZERA RI VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BA COOLING OFF FASHION OUTLETS to experience the best V I A C O M O 12 CORSO LECCE 23 V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE C O R S O B R E S C IA V V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S A CORSO GIULIO CESARE P A A I I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any L PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPEL ODDON V I A R O V I G O

V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA SAN DONATO ' V D O V VIA LEVANNA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI IE VIA FR IA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE LIVORNO I A A I S E S O G R O B A I V R VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA A consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. VIA Il Fungo di Corso Telesio VI A B that Turin hasA to offer. PIE TRO COSSA Several go-to shopping CI NCESCO PEROTTI V IA S A S S A R I IN THE HILLS OF TURIN PALERMO VIA ROMAGNANO VI VIA OMEGNA VIA CORSO REGIO PARCO VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI PIAZZA VIA BA RAVENNA V I A C I R I E ' VIA ARONA VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Giardino C O RNSO O V A RA Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. TOMMASO Ospedale Marino E C O C I G N A S O R VIA CARDEZZA VIA CASERTA Ferraro C Maria Vittoria RIO VIA BOLOGNA VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI CAMPANELLA STRADA ANTICA DI Parrocchia Chiesa VIA BRINDI RNO San Pietro in Vincoli A C O R S O B R E S C IA CO VIA LUIGI GALVANI

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E PILONETTO AZZIO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I VIA ST ELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO PROSPERO RICHELMY

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE

NITÀ D'ITALIA NIZZA U

C O R S O T R A IA N O R S O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CO Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi [ SIGHTSEEING]

MORE AT PAGE 40 Top in town MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 4 7 13 5 wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum LUCA SANTILLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © © © © of Cinema. 11

151 15 9 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant- garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of CKTRAVELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which © © © rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

REGGIA DI MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to France, who took up residence here in 1600. magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to . Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower remains of its original 18th century decorations absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its is spectacular. 4 and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie Christine of France from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy the second in terms of the value and quality of VILLA DELLA REGINA Mollino, the only part of the original building Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named LINGOTTO Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT UNESCO world heritage site. 15

4 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 5 | WHERE NOW LANDMARK VIA PO PROMENADE

− Via Po was built in the 17th century and is one of the − The Church of Gran Madre di Dio is located beyond the centre’s historic streets, connecting two of the city’s landmarks, Vittorio Emanuele I bridge in the Borgo Po district. This church Piazza Castello and Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Its characteristic was built in the style of the Pantheon in Rome between 1827 and arcades are amongst the longest in Turin, making it a favourite 1831 to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I to Turin, destination of shoppers, who go there to browse its historic after the defeat of Napoleon (1814). ‘botteghe’, bookstores, boutiques and cafés. − Monte dei Cappuccini (on the right), whose noteworthy − During the 19th century, covered walkways were built along features include a convent and a church complex of the via Po to allow members of the Royal court easy access to the Capuchin friars, offers a 360 degree view over the city and its Church of Gran Madre di Dio, in the event of rain (on the left). surroundings. FABIO MANCINO PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM FABIO © WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN AUGUST HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

VIDEO ART AND PERFORMANCE

THE BIM RELOCATES ◀ For the first time in its history, the BIM - Biennale de l’Image 21 30 en Mouvement will temporarily JUNE SEPTEMBER relocate from its historic headquarters in Geneva to the spaces of the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni in Turin. Under the guidance of Andrea Bellini, Director of the Centre d’Art Contemporain, and Andrea Lissoni, Senior Curator of film and international art at the Tate Modern, the Turin-based exhibition space will present a program of video art and performances tailored to blend in with the venue’s spectacular post-industrial architecture.

Biennale de l’Image en Mouvement 2019 The Sound of Screens Imploding OGR - Officine Grandi Riparazioni Corso Castelfidardo, 22. Map A5

© GIORGIO PEROTTINO www.ogrtorino.it

8 WHERE TURIN I MAYAUGUST 2019 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN

ART

FROM THE FESTIVALS METAPHYSICAL TO POST- 18 25 MODERNISM APRIL AUGUST ▼ The exhibition at GAM titled “Back to the Future. Neo-Metaphysical and Contemporary Art” showcases the works of renowned Italian artist Giorgio de Chirico alongside those of MINOR ART contemporary artists, who drew inspiration from his paintings from the 1960s to the era of Pop Art. Seventy works of art explore de Chirico’s last creative period, a prelude to post-modernism in the 1980s, which influenced not only the visual arts, but also literature, films and even videogames and video clips. 13 14 JUNE OCTOBER Giorgio de Chirico. Back to the Future. Neo-Metaphysics and Contemporary Art THE GOLDEN AGE GAM - Galleria d’Arte Moderna. Via Magenta, 31. www.gamtorino.it OF MAIOLICA COLLECTIONS © DANIELE BOTTALLO ▲ An extraordinary collection of Renaissance maiolica produced by the most prestigious Italian THE MAN WHO LOVED ART manufacturers. For the first time ever, more than ▲ The exhibition “I mondi di Riccardo Gualino” at 200 works that tell the story of the golden age of Turin’s Musei Reali is dedicated to a renowned Italian maiolica, from the second half of the 15th 7 3 collector and his extraordinary story. It features century to the first half of the 16th century, are JUNE NOVEMBER 150 masterpieces including works by Botticelli, gathered together under one roof. The exhibition Duccio da Boninsegna, Veronese, Manet, Monet is hosted by one of the most striking buildings and Casorati. A unique opportunity to admire paintings, sculptures, furnishings and in the city, the Civic Museum of Ancient Art at photographs on loan from Turinese and national museums and institutions, private Palazzo Madama, whose permanent collections collections and archives. include more than 600,000 paintings, sculptures The worlds of Riccardo Gualino. Collector and entrepreneur and decorative arts from the Byzantine era to the Musei Reali, Sale Chiablese 19th century. Piazzetta Reale, 1 Renaissance Italy. The splendour of maiolica www.museireali.beniculturali.it Museo Civico d’Arte Antica, Sala Senato Palazzo Madama. Piazza Castello www.palazzomadamatorino.it CAR DESIGN

Deerhunter

19 10 A WEEKEND JUNE NOVEMBER MASTERS GAMES OF MUSIC

THE GREAT ▲ TOdays Festival, PROJECT PAGES 23 25 now in its fifth edition, “Il Progetto Raccontato”, a celebratory exhibition marking FESTIVAL ► AUGUST runs from early the 40th anniversary of the prestigious Auto&Design OF SPORT afternoon until late magazine, is currently showing at Turin’s Museo Nazionale 26 4 The European Masters Games at night. It features a stellar line-up of international artists dell’Automobile. The exhibition covers four decades, from JULY AUGUST is held every four years to including legends and rising stars. Among others, big-names the Eighties to the present day, and shows how the work of a promote physical activity, create on the program include Hozier, Jarvis Cocker, The Cinematic leading magazine in the automotive industry has changed in social interaction and involve athletes from all over the world. The Orchestra, Nils Frahm and Spiritualized. parallel with the evolution of car design. The exhibition also event features numerous sports including track and field, football, The festival will be hosted at several, unique locations features several spectacular concept cars accompanied by rowing, cycling, dance, golf, judo, karate, basketball, handball, tennis, including sPAZIO 221, Turin’s Mercato Centrale and the old their original designs. clay pigeon shooting, as well as fringe events throughout the city. Incet Factory. Auto&Design. Il Progetto Raccontato European Masters Games Turin 2019 TODAYS Festival MAUTO-Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile. Various locations across the city - www.torino2019emg.org www.todaysfestival.com Corso Unità d’Italia, 40. www.museoauto.it

10 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Cooling off in the hills of Turin

Cascata di Fondo

DIVE AND SWIM If you have at least one day at your disposal, the ideal option, when temperatures are soaring, is to head to the mountains, where you can swim in a natural waterway. The is home to numerous bathing areas, and the mountains hide several fabulous spots where you can cool off. These include ravines, rivers and lakes enhanced with real beaches and amenities for tourists. In Valchiusella (1,5 hours from Turin), in the small commune of Traversella, you’ll find the Cascata di Fondo, traversed by an ancient bridge which leads to a pool filled with crystalline, emerald green water. A dip in the pool is a great way to cool off and beat the heat. Located just a few kilometers from Turin, in , in Val di Messa, a swim in Goja del Pis, a small lake surrounded by rocky walls, into which a 15-meter waterfall flows, is an absolute must. This is a peaceful, uncontaminated area which can be reached on foot, after a pleasant stroll in natural surroundings. However, take note. The area does not have any tables, chairs, bins or toilets. Another must for lovers of mountain lakes are the Guje di Garavot, located 70 kilometers from Turin, in the lush green surroundings of Valchiusella. Eroded over time by the river, they are two interconnecting pools of water, surrounded by grayish-blue rock faces. A perfect place to relax on the banks of the river, dive from the rocks and swim. Villa della Regina

Lots of useful tips to take refuge emperatures in Turin can soar sky- tourists a chance to hike and commune Parco della Rimembranza will astonish you where you can stroll and take refuge from offered refreshment to locals and tourists high in August! Luckily the city offers with nature less than two kilometers from with its wealth of flora and the beauty of its the heat. who have come here to cool down and from the heat and summer’s numerous options: from a hilly area the centre. In 2015, the Piedmont capital landscapes. The park is located at an altitude Parco Europa is equally attractive, but much sample traditional Piedmontese cuisine at soaring temperatures while located just steps from the centre obtained a prestigious award, when the of 715 meters above sea level, near the smaller than the Maddalena. It is situated affordable prices, for over one hundred years. whereT you can enjoy an alfresco dinner or Parco del Po and the Collina di Torino were summit of the Bric della Maddalena (not to at the highest point of Cavoretto, a hilly Parco di San Vito lies to the east of Turin staying in the city. Discover aperitivo, to water parks, nearby lakes and designated a ‘UNESCO Italian Biosphere be confused with the Colle della Maddalena, area characterized by Torinese Liberty-style and is like a natural terrace overlooking the hidden treasures, unique places natural waterways, and aristocratic ‘palazzi’ Reserve’. The reasons for this award include which is an Alpine pass). One of the park’s buildings dating back to the early 20th city. The park is crossed by a trail and has a far removed from the tourist track boasting age-old gardens where you can the area’s impressive biodiversity, its main attractions is an arboretum that was century. The park is a romantic kaleidoscope sprawling lawn where you can sunbathe. and cool mountain retreats. cool down. Here are our suggestions to make numerous wetlands, its closely-knit hills planted to commemorate the 4,787 Torinese of sloping lawns and tree-shaded benches, All these places can be accessed via public the most of your summer stay in the city. densely populated with woods, and an soldiers who died during World War I. The all built on stone terraces crossed by avenues transport or the Sassi-Superga tram from the BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI increasing variety of flora and fauna. What arboretum comprises the same number of and paths, enhanced by lush vegetation, centre of the city (ask your concierge), but, ESCAPE THE SUMMER could be better than finding respite from the trees, one for each victim, belonging to more including thick clusters of pines, plane trees heat permitting, we personally recommend There’s a quick, effective way of escaping heat in the city’s green belt, an area offering than 400 different botanical species. Parco and cypresses, magnolia bushes, monumental that you head there on foot, along the trails the summer heat in Turin: the locals call it a unique natural refuge, amidst belvederes, della Rimembranza covers over 90 hectares hawthorns, a garden of irises and an olive that wind through the countryside and ‘cooling off in the hills’. Few other cities can vineyards, private chapels, 18th–century villas, of land and boasts more than 20,000 trees, grove. While in the area, make a stopover at woods. Guided tours to the Torinese hill and boast historic cultural itineraries that offer panoramic restaurants, orchards and gardens? as well as kilometers of footpaths and trails Bocciofila Cavorettese, a restaurant that has the areas of the Parco del Po are available and

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DINNER WITH A VIEW if you’re traveling with children, don’t miss a When taking refuge from the heat, the visit to Zoom, a bio park that will make Torinese head to the hills to eat. Do you prefer you feel as though you’re holidaying a picnic, a trattoria or elegant dining? All this is in an exotic location, surrounded possible here. You can sit at a table and enjoy by all types of animals. At Malawi a unique panoramic aerial view of Turin while Beach, you can swim next the sampling creative cuisine that focuses on the hippopotamus pool and tropical best locally sourced ingredients and the great fish tank, while at Boulders classics of Piedmontese cuisine. This dream Beach, a replica of a beach on comes true at Villa Somis, a beautiful Italian the South African coast of Cape Liberty-style villa located just a few minutes Town, you can swim with South from the centre of the city (www.villasomis.it). African penguins. Zoom is located in Alternatively, at La Ciacola, a laid-back version Cumiana, a 40-minute drive from the of the adjacent Il Ciacolon restaurant, you centre (www.zoomtorino.it). Villa Somis can enjoy specialties from the Triveneto area. Located in the foothills, on the road that leads to Cavoretto, it offers a fast-casual dining experience and a charming terrace that immediately helps you feel in a holiday mood. Choices include either an antipasto or a dish and a main course, plus an evening aperitivo accompanied by an array of tantalizing snacks (www.ilciacolon.it). Birilli, another restaurant located in the foothills of Turin, serves fish dishes that vary according to the season, plus homemade pasta and desserts, as well as Piedmontese cuisine. Its relaxed atmosphere, walls covered Villa Somis with family photographs and a charming indoor garden, where you can dine alfresco on include a year-round action-packed calendar summer evenings, are the highlights at of events (www.areeprotettepotorinese.it). this locale (www.foodandcompany.com/ ristorante-birilli). HISTORIC CULTURAL ITINERARIES If you want to cool down while enjoying BEACHES AND SWIMMING POOLS a little culture and history, your go-to Not everyone knows that Turin has a beach. destination is the magnificent Villa della This is the beach at Parco del Meisino, on Regina. Situated just a few minutes from the banks of the Po river, a stretch of the river the centre of the city, it is visible from characterized by an extensive sandy bay. Turin’s centrally located Piazza Vittorio. This Although the beach is located some distance magnificent 18th century villa was the from the centre of the city, it can be easily residence of Savoy queens for centuries and accessed via public transport. During summer owes its name to its illustrious inhabitants. and on weekends, the lido on the banks of Fashioned in typical Baroque style, the the river, known as the Lido dell’Amicizia, villa’s interiors host several striking Chinese is dotted with umbrellas and beach towels. Monte dei Cappuccini

cabinets in gold, lacquered wood, in addition Inside this protected area, which is a part of © MARCO SARACCO | DREAMSTIME.COM to numerous works of art. The Italianate Turin’s Parco del Po, you’ll also find a riding gardens surrounding the villa, are enhanced school, football, beach volley and bowls with pavilions, fountains and farmland, and Birilli pitches, plus numerous urban vegetable offer visitors a wonderful sense of peace and gardens. It’s also a great place for a number coolness (www.residenzereali.it). between 1600 and 1800, plus numerous for a visit is at sunset, when Turin is bathed in of outdoor activities, including birdwatching. Parco di Superga is another ideal spot green spaces. This dense network of trails a golden glow. Other highlights include the If you’re a fan of water parks, you’ll be spoilt for those looking to combine culture and offers spectacular views of the city and Baroque church of Santa Maria al Monte, for choice. In Orbassano, located half an nature. For the Torinese, Superga is associated allows you to discover the protected area which stands at an altitude of 283 meters hour from the centre, you’ll find Blu Paradise, with the tragedy of the ‘Grande Torino’ through pleasant walks and excursions above sea level and can be easily accessed via an aquatic park featuring slides and an area which occurred on 4 May 1949. However, (www.basilicadisuperga.com). a small road that leads from the Gran Madre equipped with deckchairs and umbrellas in addition to the basilica and the places Another landmark attraction of the Torinese district. If you’re fantasizing about snow- (www.bluparadise.it). In Pinerolo, a 40-minute commemorating the dramatic plane crash, hill is Monte dei Cappuccini, located on the capped peaks, visit the interesting Museo drive from Turin, there’s Atlantis & Lost World, which killed all the members of one of the right bank of the River Po. In addition to its Nazionale della Montagna “Duca degli a theme park dedicated to Neptune, featuring world’s greatest football teams, you’ll find fascinating history, it offers a breathtaking Abruzzi”, which can be reached from the green spaces, beach volley and beach soccer a complex of villas and farmhouses built view over the city and the Alps. The best time panoramic square (www.caitorino.it/museo). fields (acquatlantis.com). Finally, and especially Zoom bio park

14 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | PROMENADE WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

◄ GUCCI A gold metal frame defines this geometric shape, creating a subtle contrast against the pink lens. The temples end in a fork GIFT detail with the Interlocking G, a distinctive code of the House. GUIDE www.gucci.com

We’ve compiled a short guide offering ideas for him and her. A great opportunity to spend some pleasant moments browsing the boutiques in the centre HERMÈS ► ‘Un Jardin sur la Lagune’ – the new ‘Parfum- of Turin, while enjoying the Jardin Hermès’ from the bath line signed discreet, elegant charm of by Christine Nagel – is inspired by a secret the Piedmontese capital. walled garden in Venice. Its floral bouquet comprises saltwort, pittosporum, white lilies and magnolias. www.hermes.com

◄ LOUIS VUITTON The ‘So Sweet Monogram’ shawl in finely textured cotton Turin porticoes tempers the bold, large-scale ◄ MICHAEL KORS The centre of Turin is a ‘drawing room’ featuring eighteen kilometers Monogram print with classic Printed with a graphic logo in a rainbow colours. The iconic Louis palette, these black ‘Gilmore’ slide sandals of covered walkways. Here is a short guide that will help you to Vuitton signature offers a from the MICHAEL Michael Kors line feature enjoy a fascinating blend of history and interesting facts amidst sophisticated yet playful touch. crystals for a fresh take on the season’s it.louisvuitton.com coveted silhouette. www.michaelkors.it ROSSHELEN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

historic cafés and captivating shops. ©

f you’re a fan of figures and statistics, gold, in the shadow of the colonnade, give its storied past as the historic supplier of you’ll be interested to know that many of the locales an austere, old-world pastries to the House of Savoy. In piazza this city boasts 18 kilometres of appearance, when you cross their thresholds, Carignano, you’ll find several other historical porticoes, 12.5km of which are you’ll find several contemporary treasures. establishments including Gelateria Pepino interconnected to form one of the For a relaxing break, head to one of the (www.gelatipepino.it). Established in 1884, largest and most convenient pedestrian area’s many historic cafés, like Caffè Florio, it was here that the ‘pinguino’, the famous areasI in Europe. Turin’s porticoes have given established in 1780 in via Po (www.caffefiorio. chocolate-covered ice cream on a stick was IL FRUTTO PERMESSO ► it the nickname of a ‘drawing room city’ it). In the same street, Caffè Abrate, the invented. In the 20th century, Il Platti in corso Made from a variety of PRADA ► because, whatever the weather, you can stroll, ‘official supplier’ of breakfast to the Scuola Vittorio Emanuele II was the favourite haunt Piedmontese apples This upbeat hemp and stop for a chat, drink a cup of coffee, choose Regia di Cavalleria, was patronized by an of Turin’s ruling class, including the founders renowned for their rich transparent PVC bag features an item of jewelry or try on a dress, as if you illustrious roster of artists from the nearby and managers of Fiat and Lavazza complex flavour, tartness a lively mix of colours and were in a drawing room, while sheltered by its Teatro Regio, including Puccini, Rossini and (www.platti.it). and good balance between textures. The bag is completed colonnades. In addition, they are renowned Tamagno. Other must-visit locales in piazza When it comes to shopping, you’ll be spoilt sweetness and sourness, by a fabric shoulder strap, for their striking beauty – from the grey stone Castello include the Caffè Baratti e Milano for choice! Turin’s arcades boast among this cider can be served as double handles and a of via Po to the marble of via Roma, Turin’s (www.barattiemilano.it), an art nouveau the highest density of shops in the world, an accompaniment to a removable hemp fabric pouch. porticoes are one of the world’s greatest jewel, designed by architect Casanova, and there’s one every 75 square metres. The city’s meal or as an aperitif paired www.prada.com architectural, aesthetic and socio-economic the Caffè Mulassano (www.caffemulassano. twelve, unbroken kilometers of arcades host with charcuterie and wonders. com), where, in 1926, Angela Demichelis approximately one thousand shops, for a cheeses. Available at Eataly A stroll through the centre of Turin is a truly Nebiolo invented the ‘sandwich’, a fact noted total of 2,250 window displays. The list Torino Lingotto. delightful experience, not only because of its by a plaque in the locale. includes the stand-alone boutiques of some www.fruttopermesso.com architecture. Above all, it will allow you to get Beneath the arcades in piazza San Carlo, of the world’s most prestigious brands, multi- www.eataly.net into the spirit of the city. Although traditional the opulent decor of Confetteria Stratta brand clothing stores, small vintage gems, window displays, edged with black and (www.stratta1836.it) reminds visitors of perfumeries, bookstores and more.

16 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Regge Sabaude

In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testifies to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from accessible by bus or car from the era, including Amedeo di , Piazza Castello. Turin, and are among some of Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo In addition to being used for long hunting the best-preserved examples Juvarra, who designed many of its most expeditions in the company of members of 17th and 18th century beautiful and widely photographed spaces, of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often European architecture. They including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of chosen by members of the Savoy household are a living testimony to the prestige of the Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century for celebrations and dynastic weddings. T th local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20 century, Queen kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the in Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia headquarters of the Furniture Museum, of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct the and a space for events and concerts. In Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge history of court life, while the apartments of addition to its original furnishings and © Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as lodges and country residences, embellished Castello della Mandria, are open for public The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal with gardens that reflect the sophistication viewing, as is the room hosting the collection gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are of courtly life. of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of above the monumental corridor known as of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can public www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. Located inside the Park of La Mandria, enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil The courtyard of the castle is also home in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin- CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer complex built in the mid-17th century as a Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

18 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 19 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN Discovering Piedmont

© MARCO SARACCO | DREAMSTIME.COM

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy his is UNESCO’s official reason stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy to the building’s panoramic terrace and its it). After the long walk up to the castle, of world-class cuisine and for adding the wine-growing of changing colours and softly rolling hills. among the area’s many tourist attractions ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). take a break and treat yourself to a marvelous landscapes. All of regions of the Langhe- Although geographically the Langhe, Roero are its numerous castles, including that of After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido Roero and Monferrato and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century in the village of La Morra, better known restaurant located in the nature reserve of these things have earned the to its world heritage list in they all have different morphologies, and currently home to the headquarters as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). areas of the Langhe, Roero and 2014. “An exceptional living and cultural characteristics. The region’s of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the spectacular views, and head to Massimo Monferrato UNESCO World Ttestimony to the historical tradition of grape varied landscape provides fertile soil for castle, in addition to stocking several of Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous MONFERRATO growing and winemaking processes, of a an impressive array of local specialties: the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it). Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of Heritage status, resulting in social context, and a rural economy based from superlative wine, to the prized white also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum In addition to other specialties, the area the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area an elite tourist destination. on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe- truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other must- is renowned for its famous three-lobed occupies a fertile tract of terrain between Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive sees include the Castle of Barolo and its hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI example of man’s interaction with his natural from Turin, these regions can be accessed surrounding town, which gives its name Indication’ status and used to make various addition to numerous historic, cultural surroundings.” by car (several of the larger centres can also to the most famous Italian red wine and is sweet treats. If you want to purchase these and outdoor activities, Monferrato is This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ be reached by train). Other options include thought to date back to mediaeval times. tantalizing specialties and see how they’re renowned for its gastronomic specialties. which is symbolic, because man has one of the many organized wine and tasting The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal Nature, culture, art and religion combine managed to shape it, giving it the unique tours on offer. Ask your concierge. museum that takes visitors on an immersive workshop (www.giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to characteristics that it boasts today. journey through the history of viticulture via absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte In this area, the vineyards of several of the THE LANGHE light, film and installations. The museum is and architecture is a visit to the Castle of di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro set over three floors of the village’s stunning Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved feat of architectural design that encompasses Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, River and Liguria, between the provinces medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit Gothic stronghold (www.castellodiserralunga. Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn,

20 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 21 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN [ DAILY TOURS ]

is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a Fashion outlets type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. In addition to informing visitors about the history, landscapes and art Not far from Turin, in Piedmont, don’t miss a of Monferrato, the museum also organizes trip to these shopping destinations initiatives and events targeted at highlighting offering discounts all year-round. the historical characteristics of the place. For LUGANO some years now, the museum has undertaken MENDRISIO the arduous but worthwhile task of taking BERGAMO BRESCIA an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. Vicolungo NOVARA The Style Outlets TRIESTE ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, ? MILANO carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real Torino ? Outlet Village underground tunnels. These works of arts, TORINO carved and modeled by artists, were either ALESSANDRIA used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, ? PIACENZA Torino Outlet Village Vicolungo The Style Outlets BOLOGNA MAR because the temperature inside them remains Mondovicino ? GENOVASerravalle ADRIATICO constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are Outlet Village Designer Outlet open for public viewing, especially during THE APPENNINI The Mall MOUNTAIN RIDGE RIMINI the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special Sanremo ? MAR LIGURE occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni.it). PISA Serralunga d’Alba castle FIRENZE If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be VENTIMIGLIA spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, LIVORNO ANCONA SIENA Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good Serravalle Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting PERUGIA VICOLUNGO THE STYLE SERRAVALLE DESIGNER MONDOVICINO OUTLET the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE OUTLETS OUTLET VILLAGE Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th With over 90 stores of top Italian Situated 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from Situated one hour from Turin, century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place and international brands, as well Turin, this is the ideal place to Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, to taste and purchase some of the area’s best as a selection of carefully selected PESCARA CORSICAspend a stylish day out where is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it). eateries, guest services, and amenities for families, this is an shopping, entertainment and Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, relaxation combine to satisfy all setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful ROERO elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, requirements. Open 7 days a week luxury designerROMA brands with the surroundings and appealing Roero is situated in the northeastern part 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public from 10 am to 8 pm. beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands Open daily, from of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the holidays 10am-9pm). • WHERE: take the A4 Torino- • WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm. Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, • WHERE: located in Settimo Milano motorway andMAR exit at TIRRENOand A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- this area is renowned for its enogastronomic Torinese, just 15 minutes from the Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the centre of Turin, 30 minutes from service, departing at 10am from service departs daily (9am to Mondovì.NAPOLI A free shuttle service, Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. the main cities in Piedmont and 75 Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso The castle is located in the province of minutes from Milan, near the exits front of the Porta Nuova train of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal from the A4 and A5 motorways, station) is available from Milan. For Scrivia and Novi Ligure. Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning residences of the House of Savoy the Outlet is easily accessible by information and reservations: 02 • WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located car. The outlet provides a daily MIKEDOTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. just a short distance from Alba, the Castle shuttle bus service from the SARDEGNA • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 of Monticello is one of the most imposing city centre and a weekly service Historic wine cellar in Langhe from the main tourist resorts in stores, including Armani, Missoni, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com.

and best-preserved medieval buildings in PHOTOS © Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including has been owned and inhabited by the Roero For real foodies, an absolute must is the di Pollenzo is well worth your time. Built in • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1a Classe, family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello. famous of Bra, a delectable product 1833, as a country residence for the House lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and Casadei, at up to 30-70% less year- Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, it). There’s nothing that says ‘royal highness’ made from lean and bacon. Since it of Savoy, it now hosts the first University brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, beauty products at discounted round. Multiple customer services, Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with more than a castle. Experience what it feels requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year- of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, prices of up to 70% year-round. including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, like to be a prince or princess for one night round and traditionally served raw, usually as This university was founded and promoted Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used by the international Slow Food association, more) specializing in apparel, Vicolungo The Style Outlets also well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and important stopover on the Piedmontese to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese which studies, protects and disseminates the accessories, footwear, homeware, hosts art exhibitions, events and make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel pasta) or polenta (www.salsicciadibra.it). agricultural and enogastromic traditions of sports gear and personal care, with other initiatives for an entertaining experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www. Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to countries worldwide year-round discounts of up to 70%. day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it castellodiguarene.com). the architectural complex of the Agenzia (www.agenziadipollenzo.com). www.torinooutletvillage.com

22 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ACCESSORIES W The Guidelines M H E O Atelier Nina Tauro R C This directory, grouped by category, is a list of E . T E R Established in 2006 in the R A V E L establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. vibrant San Salvario district, this workshop produces a variety MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of hat styles, including unique, @DIEGO PAOLUCCI @DIEGO PAOLUCCI

© at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the handmade models in fabric, coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). felt, leather and crochet. All materials are carefully selected, SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from with a particular focus on 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take quality. Inserts and details, the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed including flowers, buckles, lace on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and trimmings, are prevalently Crafted in butter soft calfskin, VERSACE’s ‘Virtus’ and on Monday mornings. vintage. In addition to winning is interpreted in a variety of styles including Ask your concierge. the ‘Eccellenza Artigiana’ award shopping bags, top handle bags, belt bags, Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is from Piedmont in 2009, in 2010 the shoulder bags and evening clutches. generally included in the price of goods. Atelier was awarded the Slow Fashion registered trademark by CNA Turin TAX-FREE SHOPPING which guarantees 100% Made in Italy quality and Parfumeurs, cosmetics and makeup. The Arcade » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to workmanship. The Atelier also creates made-to- also offers a wide range of home fragrances and reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased order hats for brides and special occasions. Open scented candles, select bijoux, facials and makeup and exported from the EU: before finalizing Tues-Sat 11am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Via S. Anselmo, 26/C. sessions. www.larcadedesparfums-profumeria.it. a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant Off Map Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Ombrellificio Torinese Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 74/F. T: 011 5621148. Map D5 UnionPay Service Hotline: Located in the ancient Barriera di Milano district, 00 800 800 95516 this artisanal workshop has created bespoke Jo Malone London e-mail: [email protected] umbrellas since 1931. In his shop, Carlo, the fifth The entire product range of this prestigious British generation of the founding family, makes numerous UnionPay is an international bankcard association brand is showcased at the airy boutique located in models, sewing the rib tips by hand and assembling based in China and serves the world’s largest the city’s central via Lagrange. Perfumes, candles, the multi-coloured fabrics and materials. Customers cardholder base. With more than 7 billion diffusers, bath and body care and home products, can personalize their own umbrellas, choosing cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become all featuring the iconic fragrances of Jo Malone from different fabrics, embroidery, shafts and the mayor payment method of the outbound London that can be combined to create your own edgings. The handles in acacia or transparent resin Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 bespoke scent. All customers visiting the boutique can be filled with copper threads, shells, ribbons merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for are offered a relaxing, scented hand massage. or dried flowers… a real sartorial, tailor-made payment, among which 10,000 merchants are www.jomalone.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat umbrella. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 9.30am-6pm; Tues located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands 10am–7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Lagrange, 4/a. 9.30am-12noon/2pm-6pm; Thurs by appointment of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their T: 011 4546467. Map F4 only; Sat 8am-12noon. www.ombrelli.it. Via Sesia, favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work 23/b. T: 011 852104. Melissa with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente Off Map Just steps from the Mole Antonelliana, Melissa is department stores, McArthurGlen Designer much more than a herbalist. Customers visiting the Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, Regina space will find a vast selection of organic products, to provide special discount or services for Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this including makeup, cosmetics, hair products, natural UnionPay cardholders. shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy soaps, candles, cups and teapots, perfumes and your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash herbal teas, plus teas and infusions of all types. Its DINING biker boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura Reservations for most restaurants are strongly interior, decorated with flower-patterned wallpaper, The best luxury brands at outlet prices pumps, Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s hat stands, velvet sofas and vintage furniture, is advised. In Italy, service is included in the jeweled sandals. It also stocks a selection of price meaning that although tipping is not reminiscent of a French boudoir. In addition to This shopping paradise, located just a few minutes from Turin, is a go-to destination for those looking for bags, bijoux and auteur fragrances. www. organizing events, its owners often pamper their compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as reginashoes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed high-quality items at discounted prices. A pleasant, engaging shopping experience. By Chiara Zaccarelli a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include clientele with makeup artists or manicurists. www. 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat melissatorino.com. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; the word “coperto”, a small surcharge 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, corresponding to the cost of the service and 3,30pm-7,30pm. Via G. Ferrari, 4. T: 011 8395813. 3. T: 011 8193029. Map I6 Map H4 visit to Torino Outlet Village in Jil Sander, La Perla, Michael Kors, Nike, The shopping experience at Torino Outlet bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de is an absolute Roberto Cavalli and Trussardi. Village features an unparalleled range of BEAUTY rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars CLOTHING Amust for shopping lovers or those Spread over 20,000 square metres, the guest services, including valet parking, are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ Alkemy MEN & WOMEN searching for an item of designer clothing, Village’s architectural design carries the personal shoppers and home delivery, all area is specifically offered. This small space in the centre of Turin concocts or an accessory without a hefty price tag. signature of Claudio Silvestrin. The well- designed to enhance, facilitate and make your Set meals: prices are per person and usually magical alchemies for body, face and haircare. The Antonioli Alkemy line includes strictly natural nutricosmetics Located only 10 minutes from the centre of the known architect’s concept includes two stone shopping experience as seamless and pleasant refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). This multi-brand boutique for men and women € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / and dermoactives, whose effectiveness lies in the in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s Savoy city and the Caselle airport, the Village and white lime promenades measuring as possible. In addition to a collection of €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. power of the natural plants and ingredients used, main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of is strategically positioned for easy access to approximately 290 meters that extend carefully selected eateries, offering a variety which no other company in the world combines or unconventional, prestigious designer labels several of the region’s top tourist resorts that horizontally, offering visitors an elegant, of culinary delights to suit all tastes, Torino SIGHTSEEING makes available, including Klamath, the ultimate including Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne wild superfood. www.myalkemy.it. Mon-Fri are renowned for their cultural attractions, contemporary architectural setting for a Outlet Village boasts a wellness and beauty The information provided on museums and Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth monuments is verified as meticulously as 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-6pm. Via V. Alfieri, 6. T: 011 Pugh. The choice of designer labels and the store’s skiing, nature and food and wine. Open relaxed, engaging shopping experience. area to add to the enjoyment of your visit. possible. However, data such as telephone 5581755. Map E4 interior decor are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s year-round, the outlet boasts 90 stores of The main artery, lying parallel to the entrance, numbers, opening hours, prices and the L’Arcade des Parfums personal style. His philosophy is based on blending top Italian and international brands, including is distinguished by an 85 meter-high obelisk >> Torino Outlet Village accessibility of sites are all subject to change, This niche perfumery, whose name is inspired by contemporary taste with alternative solutions in men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, which the architect intended to act as a Via Torino, 160. on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration the arcaded porticoes of Corso Vittorio Emanuele a practical manner. www.antonioli.eu. Open Mon footwear, homeware, sports gear, beauty ‘link between the earth and the sky’, T: 011 19234780. work, museum loans or changes II, conducts ongoing research on its signature style. 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm. Piazza Carlo of management. Ask your concierge. Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253. products, lingerie and beachwear. Standouts connecting the Village’s structure to Settimo Torinese (10 minutes from Turin) Take an olfactory journey amidst luxury perfume brands, fragrances created by illustrious Maître Map G5 include Adidas, Armani, Coach, Ferrari, Gucci, the surrounding environment. www.torinooutletvillage.com

24 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 25 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] [ RINASCENTE] Top Brands One-stop shop

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com A stroll through the streets 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: of the centre, amidst elegant Map F4 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm- royal porticoes (that extend 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm- HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. for 18km across the city), and 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: T: 011 3852651. Off Map squares embellished with 011 546971. Map F4 sumptuous architecture, is a WOLFORD—www.wolford.it ITALIA INDEPENDENT— Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am- unique opportunity to soak www.italiaindependent.com 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am- up the city’s authentic charm. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. T: 011 531348. Map F5 It’s also a great destination for Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704.

shopping enthusiasts. In the Map F5 heart of the city, often referred L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- the best fashion brands. In 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. particular, the austere and T: 011 19468000. Map F5

elegant via Roma and the LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com parallel via Lagrange, do Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. justice to the exquisite Italian T: 011 5620678. Map E5 The best shopping and international fashions on MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com display. Alternately, a reference Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. point for young, trendy Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 in Turin fashion is via Garibaldi – one MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Head to Rinascente: located in the of the longest pedestrian Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- heart of the Savoy city, it offers new streets in Europe – which 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 aesthetics and new spaces for a runs from Piazza Castello to unique shopping experience Piazza Statuto. The ideal place MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com for lovers of antiques and Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- 7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. vintage items is via Po, Map E5 which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. Map F4 The Rinascente department store in Turin has floor, visitors will find themselves immersed when it comes to sneakers. Brands include ASPESI—Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat implemented a dynamic global restyling in a world of contemporary fashion. Fans Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat process that has now provided the building of denim will be spoilt for choice, thanks to Puma, Reebok, Superga and more. The fourth T: 011 5613577. 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. with a new façade overlooking Via Lagrange iconic brands like Armani Exchange, Calvin floor is the kingdom of classic ready-to-wear Map F4 T: 011 5618744 Map F4 in order to optimise the retail space inside and Klein Jeans, Diesel, Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, featuring the timeless allure of the latest BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com give the new Turin Rinascente store a more accompanied by a selection of streetwear collections by Aspesi, Emporio Armani, Fabiana www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. distinctive identity. Following the opening of labels. Another groundbreaking addition Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph Lauren, MaxMara 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 the -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design is the creation of an outdoor clothing area, Weekend and other brands renowned for T: 011 4407207. Map F4 and food, the ground floor hosts the new where brands showcased include EA7, Napapjri their contemporary classic style. The floor’s PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat Beauty Hall, featuring high-end makeup or The North Face. As part of the unique, 1,200 square metres also host an area devoted CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. brands, including Tom Ford, Mac and Nars elevated shopping experience, the spotlight to lingerie, in a visually striking architectural T: 011 5613226. Map F4 Map F4 and prestigious brands from the world of is also focused on footwear. The third floor display, infused with a romantic mood; the beauty, such as Guerlain, Clarins, Lancôme and presents contemporary ready-to-wear, collections include items from Wolford, Paladini, CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Estée Lauder. The first floor instead acts as a expressed to perfection for a complete day- Emporio Armani, Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, showcase for classic collections, with a focus to-night lifestyle look. The focal point of the and Lejaby. The children’s collections, wwT: 011 5066699. Map F4 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3 on outerwear by brands including Emporio floor is a 250 square meter area dedicated featuring on-trend picks by big-name brands GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— Armani, Fay and Polo Ralph Lauren. The other to footwear. Brands showcased include complete the shopping experience at the store. This longuette dress Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, www.ferragamo.com side of the floor hosts more contemporary Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, Sergio by GIORGIO ARMANI 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. comes in pleated printed offerings, with brands like Corneliani Collection Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, >> Rinascente Torino • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 and coated organza. and Hugo Boss, or more relaxed options, Michael Kors and numerous others. Lovers www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. T. 011 5625977. Map F4

SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE including Aspesi or Eleventy. On the second of a casual-chic look will be spoilt for choice Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.

26 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING

Kristina Ti Additionally, its homeware department features The standalone store of famous Torinese brand furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful DEPARTMENT STORE Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine collections selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. Rinascente designed by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, www.sosanlorenzo.it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end welcoming space, located just a stone’s throw from Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 shopping is located in the city’s highly central via piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, 883531. Map G5 Lagrange. This department store offers the best independent women, who are not prepared to Top Ten in fashion for men, women and children, alongside sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati. Located in the central via Soleri, this two-level space a selection of accessories, design, homeware and it. Open Mon 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- has been, since its inception, a reference point for the beauty by the best Italian and international brands. 7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural style At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Map F4 is reflected in its meticulous, well-defined choice of Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of Turin Via Roma, 290 SO San Lorenzo brands, ranging from the avant-garde to the most prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought-after prestigious international brands like Comme des floors (women’s fashion). www.rinascente.it. Open style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a few. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am- established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via 8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5 Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5

Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16

Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 It’s sale time at Vicolungo Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK The Style Outlets! 50 46 36 36 Until 25 August, Vicolungo The Style Outlets is where it’s at! On the occasion of the 52 48 38 38 summer sales, the centre’s 150 boutiques will be offering additional discounts of up 54 50 40 40 to 70% on the outlet price of its spring/summer collections of more than 300 prestigious 56 52 42 42 FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM Italian and international brands of clothing, accessories, homeware and beauty products. 58 54 44 44 Thanks to year-round discounts from 30% to 70% on the retail price, the shopping

60 56 46 46 PHOTO © experience at Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers a perfect combination of style and value for money that will appeal to fashion addicts and mountaineering and outdoor sports BARI - BOLOGNA - CATANIA - FIUMICINO - LECCE - LUGANO - MALPENSA aficionados alike. In fact, the centre stocks important sports brands including Colmar, Men,s shoes The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo, MANTUA - MILAN - PADUA - TAORMINA IT EUR US UK Under Armour, and many others. Vicolungo The Style Outlets is easily accessible by car 40 40 7.5 6 (A4 motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit), and is connected to the centre by a convenient 41 41 8 7 shuttle service which departs on Saturdays and Sundays from Piazza Carlo Felice, in front 42 42 8.5 8 of the Porta Nuova railway station. Customers visiting the centre can also enjoy an array of Rocca is the only high-end Italian jewellery and watch-making company that has distributed and proposed, 43 43 9 9 special services including tax free shopping and free Wi-Fi. To end your day’s shopping for over 200 years, the most esteemed Brands in its Boutiques, in compliance with the concessions. 44 44 10.5 10 on a relaxing note, make sure to sample the typically offered by Vicolungo 45 45 11.5 11 The Style Outlet’s numerous bars and restaurants. 46 46 12 12 For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

28 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 SHOPPING

JEWELLERY La Belle Histoire accessories) store for men offers customers an Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for & WATCHES retrò-style atelier, overlooking a picturesque its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and Astrua 1860 find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri Astrua 1860, one of the ROLEX RETAILER wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. oldest watchmakers in Europe, is located in The store offers a selection of almost exclusively www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 the heart of Turin, between the First Italian Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of 94755460 ([email protected]). Parliament and the National Library. A key visitor French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia Map G6 attraction at the entrance to the boutique is an and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights elevator operated with a visible gear mechanism include a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear Hole reminiscent of those used in watches. At its and a homeware line.www.labellehistoire.it. This multi-brand store located in the heart of the historic store, boasting an innovative, modern Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; city sells high-quality footwear distinguished by concept, Astrua presents its contemporary 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix of jewelry creations, exquisite leather goods and Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199. Map H3 trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma and precious accessories. In addition to several of the Strategia, alongside models by Italian and internal world’s most coveted watch brands, including Rrriot shop artisanal producers. Also sells bags and accessories. Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am- Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, IWC, of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its 2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30am/3.30pm- Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines and Montblanc, minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing 7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 5176602. Maison Astrua 1860 stocks Murano glass by with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, Map E3 Venini, creations by Tudor, luxury accessories, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot Edward Green footwear, Amouage fragrances and strives to offer its customers a range of products Cribì Pasotti umbrellas. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat that are always different and innovative. Its aim is Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.astrua.com. Via to introduce Turin to Northern European brands central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store Cesare Battisti, 15 corner of Piazza Carlo Alberto. designed exclusively for the Italian market. www. selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, T: 011 5613873. Map F4 rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm- featuring a combination of craftsmanship and 19.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. Rocca 1794 experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines. T: 011 19500239. Map F7 Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. SHOES 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm- Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a Bottega Velasca 7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. selection of the world’s most prestigious brands Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east Map F5 including Damiani, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and Breitling, Blancpain, Venini and Salvini. Rocca is acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4 LEATHER & LUGGAGE Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www. maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Map E4 Exquisite leather goods by Astrua The new Astrua collection of travel bags embraces the aesthetics of a contemporary, PASSION SHOPPING elegant style, and is characterized by several highly distinctive design features. The innate Culti House Torino aptitude for research on materials and the study of details, shapes and colours are a tribute At this small, charming boutique decorated in to those who have made exclusivity and sophistication a part of their everyday lifestyle. shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture The careful selection of precious skins, the nuances and details in rose gold, combined of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a with the savoir faire of expert craftsmen, make the products created for Astrua unique. mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space The new collection is named after the bay of Portofino on the Ligurian Riviera whose houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, colours and magical atmosphere Valter Franco Ricci wished to celebrate by extending his candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www. passion for the creation of jewelry to luxury accessories and designer objects. culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm- www.astrua.com 7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4

30 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN FOOD SHOPS Borgiattino Pastry Shops A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth Italian and European regions including Reblochon discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4 CAFFÈ PLATTI Eataly Torino Lingotto If you visit just one of Turin’s historic Located in Turin’s Lingotto district, Eataly is a cult locales, then it has to be the illustrious, destination dedicated to Italian gastronomy, offering belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in numerous gift ideas to satisfy every palate. Set in a large converted factory, this 11,000-sq-metre 1870, it soon became a social and cultural emporium, houses a vast array of eateries, serving reference point for 20th century Turin. traditional Italian and Piedmontese specialties. A Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, go-to destination for a sweet or savoury breakfast, a inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI quick lunch, a tantalizing afternoon tea, a dinner at a medallions, you can sample Piedmontese pizzeria or a gourmet restaurant, without forgetting specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vicina (entrance ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. from via Nizza 224). Open daily 10am/10.30pm. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run T: 011 19506801. www.eataly.net. Via Nizza, 230. by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the Off Map king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Gastronomia (La) Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you T: 011 4546151. can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with GHIGO meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovy- This historic pastry shop, located just free Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located chocolate, served with freshly whipped in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San cream and marrons glacés (a candied Torteria Berlicabarbis DIEGO DOMINICI Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). © Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat At Christmas, Ghigo excels itself with its 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a ‘’ covered with a butter icing and a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere Làit e Formagg generous sprinkling of icing sugar. where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin Located just steps from the centre, this small, www.pasticceriaghigo.it boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy The house of gelato cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses PASTICCERIA VENIER candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing Alberto Marchetti’s philosophy of authentic ice cream is based on the use of high-quality ingredients Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of options are also available. berlicabarbis.com sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional sourced from Slow Food Presidia and processed according to the strictest regulations. By Chiara Zaccarelli specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera the centre, is another go-to destination to Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. (a type of biscuit which translates literally as start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet famous for its ‘’ (coffee served or some time now, the name Alberto pistachio, hazelnut or chocolate, Farina Bona, >> Casa Marchetti - Alberto Marchetti treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO Marchetti has been associated with made using only the finest cornmeal produced www.albertomarchetti.it cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find base, topped with foamed milk and a A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon high-quality gelato. This master ice cream in the Valle Onsernone (between Ticino and Piazza C.L.N., 248. T: 011 544383. sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also created in the rooms of an old apothecary F 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm- its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful maker recently rose to fame after being chosen Piedmont). At present, Alberto Marchetti has 8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a by Starbucks to combine the Italian tradition of three ice cream parlours in Turin, one in Alassio T: 011 6699407. Off Map Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di fabulous assortment of pastries by chef artisanal gelato with the taste of quintessential and one in Milan. To learn more about the art Pescheria Gallina dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, American coffee. But who is Alberto Marchetti? of this master ice cream maker, head to Casa Now run by the fourth generation, this historic and two amaretti instead of shortcake. Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, The son of ice cream makers, he grew up Marchetti, one of his three outposts in the Savoy fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, surrounded by ‘fiordilatte’ and hazelnuts and he city: an ice cream parlour with a workshop and an mercato has been in business for over a century. hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth made them his profession. His products are an open-plan warehouse but, above all, a place to Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS mention are the locale’s savoury offerings Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just example of artisanship, with an almost maniacal meet and exchange ideas. Visitors can participate In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your which include sandwiches, savoury 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers attention to raw materials. Fresh milk and cream, in cooking demos and make purchases from snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. can choose their order directly from the counter lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry sugar, seasonal fruit and numerous ingredients the shop dedicated to select producers or from or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the shop that turns out approximately A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. sourced from Slow Food Presidia, purchased from the standalone stores of Marchetti’s partners, catch of the day, , a glass of house wine 20 different cakes a day, including farmaciadelcambio.it. select local producers. These are the ingredients including Altalanga, renowned for its hazelnut and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. that make the flavours of Marchetti’s gelato so specialties, maître chocolatier Guido Gobino and Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Barberino Designer Outlet special. Scoops to seek out include traditional coffee roaster San Domenico. Map F2

32 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Michelin-starred restaurants Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin- Seven starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. (C. Z.) chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern CANNAVACCIUOLO flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, BISTROT TORINO codfish with tomatoes, eggplant ravioli Established to offer diners an with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with elegant, unique experience, this blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk restaurant highlights the essence cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. of the famous Neapolitan chef €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 culinary art, which sees traditional ingredients from his homeland Casa Amelie mixed and matched with those A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, from Piedmont. The space has and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef been designed in keeping with Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top the philosophy of Feng Shui. ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative T: 011 8399893. Vintage 1997 yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it and exotic fare, premium-quality ingredients and Map I6 seasonal products that will delight your taste MAGORABIN buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat CARIGNANO Just steps from the Mole, this starred 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. At the restaurant located inside the Grand restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. an eclectic Chef with a strong personality. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, You can dine à la carte, or enjoy the Cianci Piola Caffè re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, restaurant’s tasting menuJust a little further A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition on, in the same street, the chef has opened (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers with a few forays into the nearby region of Magorabin Alimentari, a bottega/bistro with authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. an adjacent bakery where you can purchase With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer Liguria. His menu features traditional dishes or taste specialty products. months, this delightful locale in the heart of the re-imagined and re-adapted in keeping with Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, contemporary techniques and tastes. Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. ‘’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), Via Carlo Alberto, 35. T: 011 5170171. T: 011 8126808. ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 www.magorabin.com Map H4 antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great CASA VICINA SPAZIO 7 selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm- Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re 11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3 restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, The best of Italian tradition Consorzio for five generations have embraced the the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and part of the Foundation. Consistent with the philosophy of spreading the culture of Italian cuisine, Eataly Torino Lingotto Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in is the ideal place to sample ‘personalized’ options throughout the day. By Giulia Minero ingredients. The wine list is extensive and young Chef who arrived here after working Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates at several of Piedmont’s most historic beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza with Eataly, customers can choose from the restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: Monferrato and freshly picked, garden-grown young, contemporary and open to innovation. or over 12 years, Eataly in Turin has been carte choices, foodies can take advantage of vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar. Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. The wine list features the classics of Piedmont linked to Italy’s high-quality culinary the ‘counter-to-table’ options, and guided by tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map and its neighboring regions in France. tradition. Located in the heart of the Eataly’s expert staff can choose their favourite wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best F local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Via Modane, 20. T: 011 3797626. Lingotto district, this unique temple of ingredients from among over 50 different cuts of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve DEL CAMBIO www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map taste is more than a large covered market meat, fish and seafood from the fishmonger, plus a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- Established in 1757, it was among the where you can find a wide selection of local charcuterie and cheeses. It’s then up to the chefs 2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count VINTAGE 1997 specialties. It is also a go-to destination to prepare the customized recipes. Highlights ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de As its name suggests, it’s renowned T: 011 2767661. Map E3 offering a rich array of counter dining and include steamed or baked specialties, grilled, Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and for its old-world atmosphere. traditional restaurants, where you can barbecued or fried dishes, raw fish and meat È Cucina the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition. Rather than bold, creative sample straightforward, tasty cuisine based offerings, and naturally leavened , which This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese on top quality ingredients and a selection of means that even the most discerning customers Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary traditions, which he reinterprets with a specialties including truffles, cheeses and authentic Italian products. The Cucine del will find the option best suited to their palate. décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for Mercato located in the middle of the fresh contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth the past twenty years with traditional product counters epitomizes the marriage >> Eataly Torino Lingotto underlying philosophy is based on the search Piedmontese professionalism. for premium-quality ingredients with a particular a visit. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. between locally sourced products and Via Nizza, 230. T: 011 19506801. www.vintage1997.com Map E4 focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes www.delcambio.it Map F4 traditional cuisine, in a menu that features Open daily 10am-10.30pm. Off Map are served with a side, at no additional charge) and meat, fish and vegetables. In addition to à la www.eataly.net © FEDERICO CARDAMONE conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from

34 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING

a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by In addition to classic regional recipes, including Oriental Daily by Kiki homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed Map E3 Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Piedmont food glossary Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, infused Map E7 sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s with a decidedly French atmosphere. The menu cherries and wild berries. Excellent value for money. is divided into small tapas-style antipasti (referred Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao buns topped This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, with brisket and barbecue sauce, codfish cheek Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map with chard and a meat consommé. Mains include della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials version with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, accompanied by an extensive wine list, including rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. A Casa di Pulcinella several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues- Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. An informal locale which, as its name suggests, Thurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12noon- a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For serves a fabulous , accompanied by We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute Piedmontese Mixed Fry 2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www.filibertiviniefornelli. an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to must-tastes. By Chiara Zaccarelli it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730. its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough Map E2 the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include 10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned BAGNA CAUDA AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN Le Vitel Etonné Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 The standout at this restaurant located in the heart but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, This typical winter specialty consists of a These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a Vitello Tonnato ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at ETHNIC CUISINE Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include Hafa Storie sausage.Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm- 10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso and chopped nuts can also be added. or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, fairly common because the city’s second largest Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and

served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ foreign community is the Moroccan community, Bakery Restaurant & Pizza pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues- it encourages conviviality, on the other, agnolotto you pinch the two sheets Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, of pasta together. Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners you might find people avoiding you Map G4 are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven- can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, because you reek of it! PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO Plin & Tajarin vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this with a few regional references including sausage and This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of Bagna Cauda

11am-3pm/5pm-12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun This uniquely rich local specialty of veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder BOSCHERINO PHOTO © GIOVANNI SHUTTERSTOCK.COM masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto Piedmont consists of a combination and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2 with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked Map B3 accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, for several hours in boiling water. It is natural culinary technique that is used to Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, Crudo fa la Pizza! accompanied by pan-fried carrots or accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It including ice cream. Open Mon-Sat mixed vegetables. Not a dish for the a side of vegetables. One of the favourite traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for preserves the softness of the dessert and 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. faint-hearted. dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. facilitates the formation of a delicious crust forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature only the finest producers. It has now taken on the and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito Map B3 dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. misto’ even has its own brotherhood. on its surface. Porto di Savona marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the VITELLO TONNATO American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th- carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino. of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. and walls decorated with period paintings and com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with Map F2 Map F3 photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello Oh Crispa! Gusto Madre tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a lemon juice, salt and pepper. good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked come to the right place. The kitchen is headed by a numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese crepes If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, BONET ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the by now there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with pork any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials that processed to a minimum and combined with the Map H5 be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from vary from day to day. All the dishes featured on creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough- Scannabue the menu are made from carefully selected, strictly making techniques, are the reasons for the success sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues 6.30pm-11pm; of this healthy, easy-to-digest, multi-award winning biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-11pm; Sun pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www. Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, PHOTO © TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Bagna Cauda Bonet that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. CAZZANTI PHOTO © VALENTINO SHUTTERSTOCK.COM laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via Belfiore, 16bis/d. gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map Map G6

36 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and theatre of the highest standards and presents an AFTER DINNER contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family Hiroshima Mon Amour it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon- T: 011 5169555. Map F4 go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Teatro Nuovo over the years it has become a reference point for Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5 Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to Italian and international artists, exhibitions and Lanificio San Salvatore the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre Jazz Club Torino accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Highlights include an interesting wine list, including operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed its offers a diverse program of concerts with an evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm- Teatro Regio emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and- 2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7 Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Wed-Thurs 8.30pm-midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; THEATRES Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub. Teatro Carignano linked to several of the world’s most illustrious torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5 the place where the king went to watch plays (opera Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and Les Arcades was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it. a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3 the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6 Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the

© ALBERTO CHIARIGLIONE © ALBERTO offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso Discover a temple of mixology Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4 At Centràl Cocktail Bar, tradition, research and experimentation combine daily to give life to customized APERITIVI cocktails designed to reflect the tastes of even the most discerning guests. By Giulia Minero Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the f you want to spend a pleasant evening expert bartenders create bespoke cocktails >> Centràl Cocktail Bar centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great after dinner in the open air, or find a place every day that are tailored to suit customers’ Via Luigi des Ambrois, 5. selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity where you can sip an expertly mixed individual tastes, regardless of whether T: 011 5836620. Map G5 non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular I lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun cocktail, you’re in luck. Centràl Cocktail Bar these are based on a few simple ingredients, www.centralcocktailbar.com 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. in the beating heart of the Savoy capital is or spur-of-the moment inspiration. Map D5 a stylish locale with a vibrant atmosphere, These include a variety of alcoholic or non- Beena The Reggia shines at night where music and mixology take centre alcoholic options, enhanced with , Special evenings at the Reggia di Venaria and its magical gardens. The Summer This venue offers a delectable Indian-style stage. Sit comfortably in one of its indoor and created by balancing flavours and apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a evenings at the Reggia event, part of the larger Palchi Reali 2019 extravaganza lounges, decorated with vintage and post- aromas to make your after-dinner drink, dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a featuring shows and performance at Turin’s Royal Residences (www.palchireali.it), includes industrial furnishings, perfected by a few or aperitivo, a unique experience. cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table the extended opening of this magnificent residence every Friday and Saturday until 24 and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori contemporary details, or outdoors, with a Make sure to combine your expertly crafted August from 7pm to 11.30pm. The program includes harp concerts, jazz performances, oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours view over Piazza Carlina, where even the cocktail with one of the venue’s delightful of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. a stimulating video mapping show projected on the façade of the Galleria Grande, the most discerning customers will appreciate culinary offerings including crudités served Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7 Water Theater at the Fountain of the Stag (night show with water jets, sounds and lights) their wide selection of beers and Italian with a dill-flavoured Greek yoghurt dip La Drogheria and an installation titled ‘Illuminare il Barocco-Illuminating the Baroque’ (see photo). and international wines. And when it comes or platters of charcuterie and cheeses Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, Finally, don’t miss the ‘Il Giardino di notte’ (The Garden at Night) event, a moonlit tour of to cocktails, forget the concept of a fixed accompanied by traditional Torinese La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an the Reggia’s gardens. www.lavenaria.it © ALBERTO CHIARIGLIONE © ALBERTO menu! In addition to classic favourites, rubatà grissini. international feel. The atmosphere is just right and

38 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium to the above, this must-visit museum offers a shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and international artists. The Art Library and the a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, Football Club whose home matches have been Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, played here since 2011, the year when the facility www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. compatible facilities in the world, in addition to J-Museum (Juventus Museum) net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. being one of the two architectural symbols of Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the Off Map modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is Mole Antonelliana major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex dedicated to the history and triumphs of the The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The of the world’s best and most innovative sports Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by J-Museum, the first official football museum of the museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a of national unity. At the time of its construction it www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Off Map also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 Basilica di Superga rises through layers of windows and pseudo- September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat- Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). deliverance from the French siege of 1706, star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. The ticket office closes one hours before the the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium- according to the style of the era with a colonnaded atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the e-museum. Via 153. T: 011 4530486. portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ 360-degree observation platform at the top of Off Map convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine Lingotto Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass can also access the panoramic deck on foot by and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of more stunning when viewed from the top of the Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana apartments, you can walk around the building to of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Map H4 football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map A record-breaking museum Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Turin’s Egyptian Museum, founded in the early 19th century when collecting mummies and Egyptian The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of amulets was a fashionable pastime, is a star of the museum world. By Elena Peverata Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the ave you heard of Jean-François up by TripAdvisor, it was ranked number one to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the Champollion? A French archaeologist among Italy’s most popular museums, ninth from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Hand Egyptologist and the director in Europe and fourteenth in the world. The If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, of the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, British newspaper The Times listed it as one of know where to begin your tour, get an audio Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa he is the man who deciphered the mystery the 50 best museums on the planet. Despite its guide. It’s free and allows you to choose and Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone longstanding history and historic headquarters personalize your itinerary to suit individual Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. in 1822. It is also thanks to Champollion’s – the imposing Palazzo delle Accademia delle requirements. A tip? The Restoration Area Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. expertise that we owe the defining statement: Scienze, dating back to the 17th century – the on the first floor that allows visitors to watch Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes museum is extremely modern in terms of both animal mummies being restored. Off Map through Turin.” When mentioning Turin, he its layout and immersive visitor experience. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e © MICHELE D’OTTAVIO was referring to its unique and extraordinary Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer The ticket office closes one hour before the Contemporanea Egyptian Museum, the world’s first Egyptian Dante Ferretti in 2015, the exhibition space museum. Museum full ticket price: €15. GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of MUSEO NAZIONALE DEL CINEMA museum founded in 1824, the second in terms was doubled, following massive renovations, 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Featuring a spectacular layout, this unique ‘vertical museum’, housed in the city’s landmark of the value and number of artifacts (around and is now spread over four levels, three above >> Museo Egizio Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. Mole Antonelliana, is dedicated to the history of cinema. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, 40,000) outside of Cairo, and the eighth most ground and one below ground, organized in Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, it spirals upwards, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an widely visited museum in Italy. chronological order. Here you’ll find mummies, T: 011 4406903. installations, videos and photos, plus one of the evocative, interactive itinerary. www.museocinema.it It’s so well-known that in a classification drawn tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related www.museoegizio.it most important collections of video art. In addition

40 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events Palazzo Carignano TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza cup at the entrance. This Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7 when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Piazza San Carlo comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence collections through an evocative, interactive Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the itinerary. In addition to a vast film library Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of Castellamonte, while building on the latter began it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing Museo della Sindone big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am- several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with 11pm. Closed on Tues shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the Palazzo Carignano, built between 1679 and The exhibition space, re-opened to the public showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 1684 by Guarino Guarini at the request of in 2011, includes two original parliamentary the property of the House of Savoy), as well as by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European Map H4 Prince Emanuele Filiberto the Mute, is an chambers: the Chamber of the Subalpine the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred impressive Baroque building, featuring a Parliament and the majestic salon designed the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade to host the Chamber of the Parliament of the on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened that anticipates the layout of its interior , featuring vaults frescoed by approximately seven hectares of land, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) spaces (see photo). Francesco Gonin (see photo). and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a The palace houses the base of a central Inside the museum, the period of the beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and and former opulent splendour. Due to culture. The venue hosts a rich program of elliptical tower in the ‘Salone delle Feste’, Risorgimento is narrated from a European Museo Egizio exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique ongoing renovations, today only a portion of an ornate room decorated with stuccoes viewpoint. In addition to a display of 2,579 Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian and electronic – as well as events dedicated to collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 and frescoes, which was transformed into original artifacts, the 30 plus rooms, the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani a parliamentary chamber where the decorated in different colours, have been important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works Subalpine government met during the enhanced with films created with images in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and process of Italian Unification in 1848. from more than 194 European museums, expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance housed in the new underground space lying T: 011 4365832. Map G4 The interior of the palace, headquarters which can be viewed on large screens. adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Parco del Valentino of the National Museum of the Italian Visitors can choose from among three PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Risorgimento since 1938, has numerous different itineraries: short, standard and lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. historical treasures, including a highly in-depth. stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. specific library and archives. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts houses numerous treasures including the Castello Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, Off Map official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty Teatro Regio 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, between the 18th and 19th centuries. your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, for educational purposes and open to the public and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind Mollino, the only part of the original building on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. or partially sighted visitors are also available. that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO an 18th century building that, over the T: 011 4406903. Map F4 Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from centuries, was used as a residence for cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Museo Lavazza members of the Savoy family, house paths. The park is always open, but the Castello Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands the temporary exhibitions of the Royal del Valentino is not open to the public. The artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, is one of the most important Italian theatres on Museums. Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di the European scene, and offers an action-packed advertisements and celebrities that have become an Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and integral part of its public image. The museum uses a Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. circular route to focus on its creative collaborations di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

42 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle LUCA MACELLARI Airport

© If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person Malpensa making the call is physically located and will pass Airport this information to the emergency services. OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city of the Alps from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Fast train network from Turin ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash www.italotreno.it. payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway T PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS available on the website). Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Airports One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open the Lingotto Fiere terminus. 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, to Milan Malpensa airport. 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: Extending over a surface area of less than to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is motorway junction. The junction is connected only pay €5 for your ticket. longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. www.wetaxi. depart from there. www.aeroportoditorino.it One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan • Connections to the airport Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm fee for night or holiday travel). rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. www.trenitalia.com. Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

44 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 45 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

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ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

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V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE Piscina scolastica comunale E8 PIAZZA VIA FRANCECO CIGNAVIA PINEROLO GIOVANNI D O R A R I P A R I A CORSO POTENZA VIA BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I VIA VIA LIVORNO VIA GIOVANNI PACINI VIA ANDRA CASTAGNA V IA B E IN A S C O VIA PINEROLO CORSO PALERMO LARGO VIA MONTE ROSA L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I FRANCECO VIA ANTONELLO DA MESSINA VIA CUNEO C O R S O N O V A R A VIA MUZIO CLEMENTI CIGNA VIA AOSTA VIA TREVISO D O R ARP I A RA I

E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina Parco del Meisino C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I VIA CUNEO LARGO VIA PISTOIA VIA LUIGI DAMIANO BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O Mario Carrara A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA VIA BRA VIA TOLLEGO CORSO REGIO PARCO CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VIA FOSSANO VIA LIVORNO VIA CREMONA CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA CARMAGNOLA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S VIA NOVI VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio V I A B I E L L A PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O CORSO SVIZZERA VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BARI V I A C O M O V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO CORSO LECCE L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE ' C O R S O B R E S C IA P A VI V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S CORSO GIULIO CESARE I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA CHIVASSO PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A R O V I G O

VIA SAN DONATO CIRIO FRANCESCO VIA V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA LEVANNA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI D O V A VIA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE

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O R A Z Z A G O F A I V Parrocchia VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE NICOLA SAN DONATO Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice VIA NICOLA FABRIZI BRESCIA I A CARLO PEDROTTI FABRIZI S. Alfonso Maria V VIA CARLO BOSSI VIA SAN DONATO AURORA Ex Scalo Vanchiglia Dè Liguori A VIA DURANDI B C D E F G H CORSO TELESIO VIA LE CHIUSE I L

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V I A L E C E R T O S A VIALE CERTOSA DOMODOSSOLA VIA AUSILIATRICE Chiesa VIA VINCENZO MARIA MIGLIET TI V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA Torino Caselle VIA S. GIUSEPPE VIA SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI C O RSO VE RO N A VIA NETRO Juventus VIA LUDOVICOBELLARDI 14 Reggia di Nostra Signora 12 Milano Malpensa GIAMPIETRO EYRON VIA GIACOMO MEDICI del Suragio Chiesa di S. Gioachino VIA BOLOGNA Stadium  (TRN) Airport Piccola Casa della (MXP) Airport

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VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE NIZZA C O R S O T R A IA N O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi Where Milan Magazine

ESSENTIALS

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Your personal travel assistant now in the The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the own car and staying in a hotel in the central city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Where Turin Magazine best hotels in Turin! car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. and departure only, filling out a form at the [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] Information desk T: 02 232323. hotel reception (ask your concierge for more www.milanomalpensa-airport.com information). • Connections to the airport In the same way it is possible to reach paid Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also the same parking lot with the request for transit from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. authorization no later than 11am. FREE FREE HOTSPOT www.aeroportoditorino.it Tourist Information CALLS INTERNET WIFI CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 aeroporto.cuneo.it 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. • Connections to the airport TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. connection from Turin with departure and arrival Open daily 9am-6pm. of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Special Tours & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS Getting around Turin CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Line A to explore the city center and the hill; Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 village and the medieval fortress; Bike Sharing 0672000. Line B to access various sites including the GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri more than 140 stations scattered around the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and 5 STARS 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; city from which to pick up and deposit rental Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di bikes. Various subscription options are available: Map E4-5 and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting annual €25, weekly €8 or daily €5. The use is free Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost point: at any bus stop. for rides of less than 30 minutes, even several Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino times a day, after which the rate provided for by Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language • your Map F5 subscription formula is applied by scaling can be collected after 48 hours from the time of commentary. 4the STARS amount from the credit on the card. To loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Acaccess Hotel Torino the service by Marriott you – need Via Bisalta, to be 11 •a Off credit Map card Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also Artholder. Hotel BostonFor more Torino information – Via A. Massena, and 70 other • Off typesMap Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus available. Artof Hotelsubscription Olympic – visitVia Verolengo, the website 19 • Off www.tobike.it Map . or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin BestGreen Western Line Crystal 800 548040. Palace Hotel Store – Via [TO]Bike Nizza, 11 Via • Map Santa E6 minutes on buses, trams or metro. BestChiara, Western 26/f. Hotel Open Luxor Mon-Fri – Corso 10am-7pm.Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 MOBIKE• Off Map – this ‘free floating’ system allows you Bestto book Western a bike Plus Hotelvia a Genovasmartphone – Via P. Sacchi, App, 14/Bidentify • Map E6 Concordthe position – Via G.L. of Lagrange, the bike 47 •nearest Map F6 to you and then TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD Dinastyleave itSuites in any – Piazza authorized Carlo Felice, parking 7 • Map E5area in the city. DiplomaticCost: 1 euro – Via deposit, Cernaia, 42 and • Map 0.30 C3 euros every 30 Doubleminutes. Tree Forby Hilton more Turin informations Lingotto – Via visit Nizza, 230 • Offwww.mobike.com. Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • OFO – Ofo, the world largest station-free bike Off Map sharing company, has launched in Turin. Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Operating across 180 cities worldwide, Ofo’s Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 mission is to provide a convenient, affordable Hoteland Principelow carbon di Torino method – Corso ofMoncalieri, travel. 85Users • Off canMap Lancasterdownload Torino an –App Corso on Filippo their Turati, smartphone 8 • Off Map to find J nearbyHotel – Via bikes Traves, and 3 • Offscan Map the QR code located on Nheither Collection the frameTorino Piazzaor smart Carlina lock – Piazzato unlock Carlo Emanuele them. II, 15The • Map company’s G5 yellow bikes have airless tyres Nh(to Torino prevent Centro punctures) – Corso Vittorio and Emanuele a 3-speed II, 104 gear • Map shift. B4 NhCosts: Torino 0.20 Lingotto euros Congress for the – first Via Nizza, half 262 hour; • Off 0.30Map euros Nhfor Torino the secondSanto Stefano half hour; – Via Porta 0.50 Palatina, euros 19for • Mapevery F2-3 30 Novotelminutes Torino thereafter Corso Giulio and Cesare 5 euros – Corso per Giulio day. Cesare, RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© 338/34For more • Off informationsMap visit www.ita.ofo.com This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map OBIKEStarhotels - oBike Majestic is a –global Corso Vittorio leader Emanuele in bike-sharing II, 54 • Map E6 free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and Thewithout Originals stations Hotel Turin offering Royal – an Corso innovative Regina Margherita, service the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also 249for • Offshort Map distance transport. The platform is offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on TownHousecurrently 70present – Via XX on Settembre, 3 different 70 • Map continents F3 for a Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Turintotal Palace of 26 Hotel states – Via and P. Sacchi, over 840 • Map cities E6 worldwide. For more information www.turismotorino.org VictoriaThe app, Torino which – Via N.can Costa, be 4 downloaded • Map F5 comfortably Villaon Savoiayour smartphone, – Corso Sicilia, 1, allows angolo Corso users Moncalieri to locate • Off and Map *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. rent bicycles using a completely innovative www.manetmobile.com [email protected] 48 WHERE TURIN I AUGUST 2019