Pocket Reykjavik 1
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REYKJAVĺK TOP EXPERIENCES • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY Alexis Averbuck 00--title-contents-pk-rey1.inddtitle-contents-pk-rey1.indd 1 115/01/20155/01/2015 112:09:092:09:09 PM In This Book 16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19 Before You Go Arriving in Getting Around QuickStart Reykjavík Laugavegur & Skólavörðustígur Need to Iceland’s primary international airport, Kefla- A car is unnecessary in central Reykjavík as Reykjaví k & Around Your Daily Budget (p48) vík International Airport (KEF) is 48km west it’s so easy to explore on foot and by bus. Laugavegur is Reykjavík’s of Reykjavík, on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Car and camper hire are best for countryside Know Budget less than Ikr20,000 Neighbourhoods premier shopping street Frequent, convenient buses serve central excursions. X Dorm bed Ikr4000–7000 and centre for cool cafes, Reykjavík. Golden Circle West Iceland For more information, X Grill-bar grub/soup lunch Ikr1200–1800 J Local Bus bars and restaurants. (p74) (p102) From KeÁ avík International Its arty cousin Skóla- E see Survival Guide (p137) X Golden Circle bus pass Ikr8500 A Strætó (%540 2700; www.straeto.is) oper- Whale Top Experiences E Top Experiences Airport vörðustígur leads to ates regular, easy buses around Reykjavík and Watching famous Hallgrímskirkja. Þingvellir Settlement Centre Currency Midrange Ikr20,000–35,000 Bus Flybus (%580 5400; www.re.is; W), its suburbs; it also operates long-distance # E E Top Experiences Geysir Icelandic króna (Ikr) X Guesthouse double room Ikr17,000–25,000 Airport Express (%540 1313; www.air- buses (p141). It has online schedules, a Snæfellsjökull Hallgrímskirkja Gullfoss National Park X Cafe meal Ikr1800–3000 portexpress.is; W) and discount operator smartphone app and a route book for sale Language K-Express (%823 0099; www.kexpress. at Hlemmur bus station (Ikr0.50). Many free Icelandic; English widely spoken X Small vehicle rental Ikr14,000 maps like the Welcome to Reykjavík City Map Guide is), whose stop is off-terminal, have buses also include bus-route maps. South Coast Visas Top End more than Ikr35,000 connecting the airport with Reykjavík (50 The fare is Ikr350 and can be paid on board (p88) Generally not required for stays of up to 90 X Boutique double room Ikr30,000–50,000 minutes). Flybus offers pick-up/drop-off at (no change given). Buses run from 7am days. Member of the many accommodations (Ikr1950 to Reykjavík, Old Harbour X Main dish in top restaurant Ikr4000–7000 until 11pm or midnight daily (from 10am on Schengen Convention. Ikr2500 to hotel), and also serves the Blue (p38) Sunday). A limited night-bus service runs Worth a Trip X 4WD rental Ikr30,000 Lagoon. Once primarily a working until 2am on Friday and Saturday. E Top Experiences Money harbour, this pretty, lively 0000 district now offers a fun 00000 Credit cards reign supreme, even in the Useful Websites Destination Best Transport K Car 0000000 Blue Lagoon most rural reaches of the country (PIN cluster of museums and E# 000000 Central Reykjavík Flybus, Airport The most common way for visitors to get Jökulsárlón required for some purchases, such as X Visit Iceland (www.visiticeland.com) Of- eateries, and is the Express, K-Express around outside of Reykjavík, cars are pricey Reykjavík 871+/-2: petrol). ATMs available in all towns. ficial tourism portal. launch-point for to hire but provide great freedom. A 2WD The Settlement Blue Lagoon Flybus: Blue Lagoon whale-watching boats. X Visit Reykjavík (www.visitreykjavik.is) vehicle will get you almost everywhere in Exhibition Mobile Phones Official capital site. E Top Experiences Your keys to under- summer (note: not into the highlands, or on 111111 Mobile coverage widespread. Visitors with At the Airport Whale Watching 111111 1 1 X Reykjavík Grapevine (www.grapevine.is) A F roads). Summer-only 4WD buses go to the 111111 1 1 1 GSM phones can make roaming calls; 111111 1 1 1 Great English-language newspaper/website. Keflavík International Airport The airport highlands, or you’ll need a 4WD or a tour. purchase a local SIM card if you’re 111111 1 1 has ATMs, money exchange, car hire, an Cars are available at both airports, the BSÍ staying awhile. X Iceland Review (www.icelandreview.com) 111111 1 1 News, current affairs, entertainment and more. information desk and cafes. The duty-free bus terminal and some city locations. 111111 1 shops in the arrival area sell liquor at far 111111 1 1 Time X Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ Regional Bus 111111 1 better prices than you’ll find in town. There’s J Old Reykjavík 111111 Western European Time Zone iceland) Destination information, traveller also a desk for collecting duty-free cash back Iceland has a decent bus network operating (p22) (GMT/UTC, same as London) forum and more. from eligible purchases in Iceland. The 10-11 from around mid-May to mid-September Reykjavík’s ancient 00000 convenience store sells SIM cards, and major between major destinations. Outside these heart lies here, with its 0000000000 Plugs & Adaptors National 000000000000 standing the city and Advance Planning tour companies like Reykjavík Excursions and months services are less frequent (or remains of a Viking E# HallgrímskirkjaHa0000ll000000gr0ím00skirkja Plugs have two round pins; electrical current Museum 0000000000000 Grey Line have desks. nonexistent). longhouse, interesting 00000000000E0#0 is 220V. North American visitors require an Three to six months before Book all 0000000000000 architecture and top 000000000 adaptor, and for non-compatible accommodation in Reykjavík and beyond. 000000000 A Regional Flights museums. 00000000 gadgets, a transformer. Demand always outstrips supply. If you’re short on time, domestic flights can E Top Experiences One month before Book adventure or bus help you maximise your stay. Tipping tours in the countryside. National Museum As service and VAT (value-added tax) are always One week before Reserve tables at top Reykjavík 871 +/-2: included in prices, tipping isn’t restaurants. Prebook airport bus if you The Settlement Exhibition required in Iceland. its surrounds– want to hit the Blue Lagoon on arrival. we help you decide Need to Know Neighbourhoods & what to do and how Tips for a Regions to do it smooth trip What’s where 8 Top Experiences 9 12 Local Life 13 PALL GUDONSSON;PALLGUDJONSSON.ZENFOLIO.COM/GETTY IMAGES © Whale Watching (p40) Whale-watching boats depart from Reykjavík’s Old Harbour in search of the Reykjaví k & Around Reykjaví k & Around magnificent leviathans diving, jumping and spouting off Iceland’s shores. You Top Experiences might spot minkes, humpbacks, fin whales and more, plus diminutive puffins. Local Life National Museum (p24) Insider tips to help you À nd the real city Iceland’s National Museum gathers together the country’s most priceless arte- facts, creating a trail of clues to life at Settlement and beyond. Peruse the finds and gain insight into the hardy hearts of Icelanders. Explore Reykjavík is small, approachable and charming, and in an absolutely gorgeous seaside setting, but its real magic is its people. A lively, creative, unself-conscious group, they live with inspiration and insight, they play hard, and they do it all with an easy aplomb. Laugardalur (p66) Other great places to experience the Reykjavik nightclub area like a local: Djammið Nightlife the geothermal springs. Reykjanes (p52 One of the largest pools, Peninsula (p72) Tiú Droppar (p60) MEGAN WHITTAKER/ALAMY © in Laugardalur, a valley of X Lively bars X Windswept Villages hot springs, sits alongside X Partying with locals X Volcanic landscapes Ostabúðin (p59 ) Some visitors come to a popular spa, botanic Yes, the Reykjanes Reykjavík just for its gardens, bustling chil- Peninsula is home to the Bæjarins Beztu dren’s park and excellent (p32 ) Reykjavík nightlife. You may not famous Blue Lagoon, realise it, but this tiny local art museums. but locals know it’s also town can get out and a land of fishing villages Lucky Records & 12 Tónar (p63 ) party. The local name for Viðey Island and lonely lighthouses, Reykjavík 871 +/-2: it is djammið – a booze- (p68) dramatic cliffs and Grái Kötturinn (p58 ) drenched parade through migrating seabirds. You’ll The Settlement X Secluded island the central Reykjavík find Reykjavikers hiking Exhibition (p26) X Coastal views Valdi’s (p44 ) streets, skipping from bar or ATV-ing along its The modern era meets Little Viðey Island, just to bar. offshore from Reykjavík, mineral lakes, volcanoes, Vestmannaeyjar the Viking longhouse at beaches and rugged lava Islands (p98) this exhibition centred was one of the first spots Laugardalur settled in Iceland. Now fields. around Reykjavík’s old- Stokkseyri & The best things to est ruins, and souped (p66) an uninhabited, dreamy haven, it’s dotted with Eyrarbakki (p92) up with fun, fascinating X Geothermal pools AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY © ARCTIC IMAGES/ALAMY © unique art installations space-age displays. X Parks & gardens South Coast Horse One of the the favourite and criss-crossed by love- HEMIS/ALAMY © Riding (p93) pastimes of Icelanders is ly walking and cycling a good soak and a chat at tracks – a favourite quick West Iceland’s see and do, getaway for Reykjavikers. Favourite Trails by neighbourhood Top Experiences Local Life and by region Make the most The insider's city of your visit 122 Reykjavík Art & Design 123 124 Best Eating Best Eating 125 1 Reykjavík the corner to classic 6 Harpa Larsen Architects, Art Museum – 1937 swimming pool, Concert Hall Icelandic firm Bat- Best Walks Kjarvalsstaðir Sundhöllin (p57 ), to Reykjavík’s dazzling teríið Architects, and see another example. Danish-Icelandic artist Best The Kjarvalsstaðir Harpa concert hall Reykjavík (p55 ) looks onto (p55 ), with its facade of Olafur Eliasson. Be sure Eating 4 Design Shops to zip inside to see its Miklatún Park, and is glimmering hexa- ICELANDIC PHOTO AGENCY/ALAMY © Art & Design vaulted glass panels NEIL JOHN SMITH/GETTY IMAGES © named for Jóhannes Icelandic artists and gons, opened in 2011 Yes , Icelanders love hot dogs, and there are 2The Walk Kjarval (1885–1972), designers create many and was designed by and wonderful harbour sightlines.