Description of more than 300 places all around Iceland

With High-quality photos and maps

With Contact information and QR-code to use with your smartphone

With Colour-coded sections for easy reference and reading

Additional online content and updates at ISBN 978-9979-72-292-2 www.icelandictimes.com Iceland celandic Times Extra is an extensive and informative book about the Icelandic Tourist Industry. It contains articles from the first 16 issues of Icelandic Times magazine as well as a number of brand new articles onI nature, natural wonders, birds and wildlife, towns and villages, museums and galleries, swimming pools, activities, curiosities, accommodation, restaurants, design and handicraft – and the endless exciting possibilities available to our guests. The winter wonders with the Nordic Lights, the summer season with the Midnight Sun. Whether it is fising, sailing, horse-riding, skiing, snow-mobiling, adventure tours, hiking, mountaineering, river-rafting, glacier-tours, hang-gliding, or just plain relaxation in the tranquil nature, here you will find the best possibilities on offer in Iceland. The book travels clock-wise around Iceland, starting in Reykjavík – at 08.00 – with maps for villages and towns, as well as greater areas. There is vast information on each of the ten main areas, their specialities and interest points; Reykjavík, West Coast, Westfjords, North-West, North-East, East, South-East, South, South-West and, of course, the Highlands. The tourist industry is an ever-growing field and thus we do not claim to give a complete account of the possibilities – but we are close. You can be pretty sure you‘ll fid everything you need in this book.

Editor in Chief and Publisher

IcelandicInformation about Iceland Times at Your Fingertips Extra t took a volcano to bring Iceland to the centre stage in the eyes The autumn brings change as the sheep are gathered from the of the world. From being Europe’s Best Kept Secret, the country mountains and sorted by farm in the réttir – fast becoming a popular wasI suddenly thrust into the limelight, making Iceland a top tourist tourist attraction. The light and colours transform the landscape. destination. Many thousands of people all over the world are seeking In winter, the ski slopes draw enthusiasts from many countries information about Iceland and the number of visitors is burgeoning. while the awesome Northern Lights fill the night skies, sometimes This first issue of the Icelandic Times Extra introduces Iceland in for hours on end. Hikers and mountaineers are rewarded by breath- all its facets. It provides a valuable resource of information that you taking views in the silence and solitude of the snow-covered land can use to plan your trip and use as you travel. It answers those basic away from the towns. Super-jeep tours take anyone, regardless of questions of where to stay, where to go, where to eat and what to physical fitness, to the glaciers and peaks of the Highlands, which do and buy. It contains a wealth of information about the country, are especially spectacular during winter months. its nature, culture, customs, history, recreational activities and lifestyle. You will be taken around the country, just as if you were The Life of the Night driving from Reykjavík, visiting the towns and villages, with their The nightlife and restaurant scene in Iceland is legendary. Some museums, restaurants, hotels and camp sites, handcraft shops and of the best restaurants are found in little villages. Visitors find galleries. Travelling through the countryside, the natural wonders themselves welcomed and drawn into the enjoyment of the nights are revealed, the birds and wildlife captured in spectacular photos by wherever they find themselves. Christmas and New Year bring age- renowned expert, Jóhann Óli Hilmarsson and the Northern Lights old traditions and modern parties to life with displays that draw recorded by famed photographer, Olgeir Andrésson, making it a tourists from all over the world. fascinating read for anyone interested in the Land of Fire and Ice. About the Icelandic Times The Life of the Seasons This, then, is Iceland and the Icelandic Times Extra will guide you This is a country that dramatically changes with the seasons. The through it, help you find out more information about any aspect that spring brings the birds from all over the world and the bird watchers interests you and provide you with a comprehensive picture of this and photographers follow them. The summer brings golfers to play country that still holds many secrets for you to discover. under the midnight sun; campers, hikers, and nature lovers to It is updated on a bi-monthly basis on the Icelandic Times website, explore the countryside. Round the coast, whale- and seal-watching where you will also find much more information and videos about combine with enjoying sights like the puffin and fishing, whilst the country and its people. All this can be accessed easily on your inland, horse-riding tours, glacier walks, mountaineering, river- smartphone using the QR codes that are included in the contact rafting and bathing in geothermal pools vie for attention with the information throughout the book. magnificent and unique natural wonders that are making Iceland We hope you enjoy reading the book and it inspires you to such a thrilling place to visit. experience what we love: Iceland in all its flavours.

3 Contents Contents Gems of Iceland ...... 6 First and last stop in Iceland ...... 112 Let the River Sing You to Sleep ...... 205 The Mystery of Randulf’s Sea House ...... 304 Fantasy Tours ...... 338-339 Another taste of Ethiopia ...... 365 The Golden Circle ...... 8-9 Skies Covered in Colours ...... 114-115 Refreshments on the Road ...... 206 Between Mountains and Fjord ...... 305 True Comfort Food ...... 340 The Chocolate Innovator ...... 365 A Very brief History of Iceland ...... 10 Adrenalin Pumping ...... 117 Live Like an Outlaw ...... 206 The French Connection ...... 305 Experience Excellence ...... 341 A Taste of Wild and Sweet...... 366 The Alþingi at Þingvellir ...... 11 The Grindavík Experience ...... 118-119 Unrequited Love ...... 207 Sleep by the Seashore ...... 306 Skógar Folk and Transport Museum ...... 342 Within The Golden Circle ...... 367 Iceland symbolised in clothes ...... 12 The Fisherman’s Friend...... 120 Coffee with the Schoolmaster ...... 207 What One Woman Can Do ...... 308-309 Hotel Skógar ...... 343 Down Into the Depths...... 367 Land of Contrasts ...... 13 A Different Iceland ...... 120 Capital of Country ...... 209 Just Begging to be Explored ...... 311 Hvolsvöllur: The Door to the Highlands ...... 345 The Land of Health ...... 368-369 Forging the Future ...... 14-17 Mamma Mia ...... 121 Horses, History and Nature ...... 210-211 Comfortable Hótel Bláfell ...... 312 The Perfect Base Camp ...... 346 A Spring Evening in Stokkseyri ...... 370 Lessons from the Eruptions ...... 18-19 The Place to Stay in Grindavík ...... 122 Skagafjörður’s Treasure Trove ...... 212-213 Embraced by the Nature of East Iceland ...... 313 Souvenir Candy ...... 346 Elegant Eating ...... 371 Lighting the night ...... 20-21 Stakkavík ...... 123 Light in the North ...... 214-215 The Gateway to East Iceland ...... 315 Sitting Pretty ...... 347 Birds of Southern Iceland ...... 372-373 Enjoy the Lights ...... 22-23 Nature’s Nuances ...... 124 Make Friends in History ...... 216 Fashion design goes all-natural ...... 316-317 The Old Cowhouse Restaurant-Café-Bar ...... 347 Geothermal Cycling ...... 374 Europe’s Only Fish Tannery ...... 24 A Mecca for Seafood Lovers ...... 127 A Dream Come True ...... 217 Hotel Framtíð of Djúpivogur ...... 318 Southern Fantasies ...... 348-349 Adrenalin High ...... 375 Leather from the Sea ...... 25 Man, Sea and Nature ...... 128 A Boutique Lifestyle in the North ...... 218 East Iceland ...... 320-321 Travelling Green ...... 351 Viking Tours of the Westman Islands ...... 377 Best in Birdwatching ...... 26-27 Sail with Charcot ...... 129 Dine in the Danish Era ...... 218 Dine by the Riverside ...... 352 A Weekend in the Westman Islands ...... 378-379 The Icelandic Sheep ...... 28-29 Rare Sights of Reykjanes ...... 130-131 Far From Home ...... 219 South Iceland ...... 323 Árnesinga Folk Museum ...... 352 Tender is the meat ...... 30-31 The Pearl of Drangey ...... 220 The Vast Vatnajökull ...... 329 A Man and His Horse ...... 353 The Highlands ...... 381 Men Who Made Iceland ...... 32-33 West Iceland ...... 133 The Most Valuable Servant ...... 221 Sleep Under the Glacier...... 330-331 Touring Iceland from above and below...... 354-355 Landmannalaugar ...... 386-387 Men Who Made Iceland ...... 34-35 Designer with a Golden Touch ...... 139 Outdoor Life to the Full...... 223 Humarhöfnin of Höfn ...... 332 The Oldest Eco-Village ...... 356-357 A Glacier Walk made possible ...... 388-389 A Cultural Celbration ...... 36-37 Eat like the locals ...... 139 Hannes Boy Café & Kaffi Rauðka ...... 224 Eating well in Höfn ...... 333 Make Your Trip Memorable ...... 358-359 Between the Glaciers ...... 390-391 The Call of the Wild ...... 38-39 They Love Life ...... 140 The Klondike of the North ...... 225 On of the World ...... 334-335 Travel With a Friend ...... 360 Beyond the mountains ...... 392-393 Art in forment ...... 40-41 The Saga Land of West Iceland ...... 143 Singing and Silence...... 226 Discover an Ice-Blue World ...... 336 Slakki Zoo & Play centre ...... 362-363 Kerlingarfjöll the untouched beauty ...... 394-395 Contemporary Art in Iceland ...... 42 Stay and See the Midnight Sun ...... 144 Enjoy Akureyri on a Budget ...... 229 Oasis Under the Glacier ...... 337 Take a Break at the Waterfall ...... 364 Jökulsárgljúfur - Vatajökull Natonal Park ...... 400-401 Reykjavík Art Museum ...... 43 The English House With History and Soul ...... 144 Where Fitness Folk Eat ...... 229 Index ...... 402 Treasures and Riches ...... 44-45 Settling for More ...... 145 The Deep Valley in the North ...... 230 Enjoy Icelandic Farm Life ...... 146 Básar Guesthouse in Grímsey ...... 231 The Greater Reykjavik Area ...... 46 Golfi ng in the Dales ...... 146 The Northern Playground ...... 232-233 Something old and new ...... 54-55 Deep in Natural Wonders ...... 147 The Old Town of Akureyri ...... 234-235 We’ll meet in the Pool ...... 56-57 Goats and Roses ...... 147 Winter Whale Watching from Akureyri ...... 236-237 An Icelandic Icon ...... 58 History Brought to Life ...... 149 A Hundred Years of Flowers ...... 238 Enter the Volcanic Café ...... 59 It’s Time to Enjoy Life ...... 150 The Café in the Flowers ...... 239 The Brave get the Best ...... 60 The Ideal and Idyllic ...... 151 The North Eats Thai ...... 240 A Changing of the Seasons ...... 61 Black & White or Colour? ...... 152-153 Pure and Natural ...... 241 Harbourside Sushi ...... 61 Between the Mountains and the Sea ...... 154 A Perfect Day in Hrísey ...... 242-243 A Gourmet Experience ...... 62 Superb Views and Food ...... 155 Enjoy the Peace and Nature ...... 244 The Chef’s Subtle Blend ...... 64 The Life of the Town ...... 156 Home to the Raven’s Roost ...... 245 Art to Enjoy and Own ...... 65 Snack in the Sun at Snæfellsnes ...... 157 An Outdoor Paradise ...... 245 Flavours of the Orient ...... 66 Dining in the Old Town ...... 157 Riding the North ...... 246 Leather Designer...... 67 Birds in Breiðafjörður ...... 158-159 The Pristine Quality of Winter ...... 247 Focus on Fashion ...... 68 Iceland to Yourself ...... 160 Þingeyjarsveit County ...... 248 The Aesthetic Wonderland ...... 69 Snæfellsnes Peninsula ...... 161 It’s a Bird’s Life ...... 250-251 Jewels & Art by the Sea ...... 70 Experience a Fantasy World ...... 162 Birdwatching in paradise ...... 252-253 Map Legend Opening The Treasure Chest ...... 70 I Discovered America First ...... 165 The Magical Mystery ...... 254 Handknitters United ...... 71 Prepare for Lunar Landing ...... 255 Hospital / Clinic Police station Graveyard Gulf course Life of Whales ...... 72 Westfjords ...... 167 Invigorate Yourself in Another World ...... 256 See Iceland With Fresh Eyes ...... 73 Mystic History ...... 173 Winterland Wonders ...... 258-259 Best way to see the city ...... 74 Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel ...... 174 The Culture House ...... 261 Post office Sports area Chemist Swimming pool Self-Driving Made Easy ...... 76 Sailing Breiðafjörður Bay...... 174 The Biggest Bones You’ll Ever See! ...... 262 Gifts from the viking ...... 78-79 Magnifi cent Westfjords ...... 175 A Stay by the Park ...... 263 Church Boat trips Ski slopes Place of interest Come out to play ...... 81 Breathtaking Landscapes and Museums of Fun ...... 177 Gentle Giants of the Sea ...... 264 Food Fit for Kings ...... 82 Peace with Nature and Birds ...... 178 As Far As You Can Go ...... 267 Airport Information centre Museum Campsite Travel Back to the Viking Era ...... 85 Dine with the Vikings ...... 178 At the End of the World ...... 268 Celebrate Horse Riding ...... 85 A Travellers’ Haven ...... 179 The Highlands in North East Iceland ...... 270-271 Hafnarfjörður the Town in the Lava ...... 86-87 Pirates in Patreksfjörður ...... 179 Credits Icelandic language How to make use of QR codes At the Lava’s Edge ...... 88 Hrafnseyri ...... 180-181 East Iceland ...... 273 Rent a Second Home in Iceland ...... 88 North by Northwest ...... 183 A Farm with a Long History ...... 279 Elín Bára Einarsdóttir Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir Icelandic is one of the European Gourmet dishes at fair prices ...... 89 Experience a Fishing Village ...... 185 Guarded by a Firey Dragon ...... 280-281 [email protected] Sigrún Pétursdóttir Elín Sigríður Ármannsdóttir root languages, like Latin. There Radiant Jewellery and refl ectors ...... 90-91 Adventure at Sea...... 185 Stefán Helgi Valsson The Hiking Paradise ...... 282-284 [email protected] is no ‘c’ or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, Can we invite you over? ...... 93 Iceland’s fi rst settler ...... 186 Kingdom of the Wyrm ...... 287 Erna Sigmundsdóttir Súsanna Svavarsdóttir except in foreign words. However, Wonders at My doorstep ...... 94-95 Life through the Lens ...... 187 Cowshed Corner ...... 288 [email protected] Vignir Andri Guðmundsson Halla Lúthersdóttir VIDEO & TV DEPARTMENT It still contains some letters not The Mansion of the Icelandic Soul ...... 96 Beauty in Remoteness ...... 188 Eastern Lakeside Resort ...... 288 [email protected] Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Your own piece of Iceland ...... 97 A Nature Paradise ...... 189 In Your Private World ...... 289 Hrönn Kristbjörnsdóttir found in most other languages. EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER Gabriel Rutenberg Travel in Touch ...... 97 Where East is West ...... 190 [email protected] At the Eastern Crossroads ...... 289 Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir This basic list provides a general [email protected] Stay Warm this Winter ...... 98 Hólmavík’s Harbour House ...... 190 A Fresh Place to Stay ...... 290 [email protected] ART DIRECTOR idea of their sounds, using familiar Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or Connoisseur’s Delight ...... 99 Of Sorcerers and Witches ...... 191 Hidden Pearls of the Highlands ...... 291 PROOFREADER ARTICLES WRITTEN BY Vilhjálmur Árni Langfeldt iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be Andrew Scott Fortune words rather than phonetics. downloaded free for all makes of smartphones Baked to Perfection ...... 100 Trolling the Westfjords ...... 192 The Reindeer Centre ...... 292 [email protected] Andrew Scott Fortune LAYOUT & DESIGN The Crafty Side of Mosfellsbær ...... 101 The Natural Pearl of the East ...... 295 SALES AND MARKETING Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir Sigrún Pétursdóttir Character Pronunciation Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir Elaine Marie Valgarðsson Svafar Helgasson á Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ Icelandic Times North Iceland ...... 195 Trendy Seyðisfjörður ...... 296 [email protected] Júlíana Björnsdóttir FRONT COVER PHOTO The Reykjanes Peninsula ...... 103 Who’s Watching Whom? ...... 201 Eat, Drink, and Enjoy ...... 297 Delphine Briois æ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ [email protected] Hrafnhildur Þórhalsdóttir Landmannalaugar - Olgeir Andresson ð Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ A Cultural Metropolis ...... 109 The Life of Salmon ...... 202 Síðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík Eyjólfsstaðir Guesthouse ...... 297 þ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’ The World of the Vikings ...... 110 Family leisure, comfort and beauty ...... 202 A Birdwatcher’s paradise ...... 298-299 +354 578 5800 Harbour Dining in Old Kefl avik ...... 111 Gateway to the Vatnsnes Peninsula ...... 203 Quintessentially German ...... 301 [email protected] The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily refl ect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though the Salmon in every possible form ...... 111 A Guesthouse with History ...... 204 Home Away from Home ...... 301 content of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content. www.icelandictimes.com I wish I could stay longer...... 112 Cosy Nostalgia ...... 204 Meet the Locals ...... 302-303 This fi rst edition published January 2013 by Land og saga ehf. All rights reserved Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Company Gems of Iceland

Blue Lagoon ...... 124

Mývatn ...... 250-254

Geysir ...... 8-9 Landmannalaugar ...... 386-387 Akureyri ...... 232-235

Dynjandi ...... 175

Látrabjarg ...... 177 Jökulsárlón ...... 336 Westman Islands ...... 378-379 Þingvellir ...... 11

6 7 Geysir If you get close to the falls, you will produce. It lies in a thermal For a country named, ‘Iceland’, there is an undoubtedly get soaked by the spray but, hotspot under the Hellisheiði mountain amazing amount of heat in evidence and by climbing the staircase up to the top of plateau and has hot springs bubbling up nowhere more dramatic than the famous the cliff , you will fi nd a café and giftshop all around it, with plumes of steam visible Geysir. Until a recent earthquake, it had gone where you can both dry off and enjoy their around the mountainside. These heat the quite quiet but when it does erupt, sending delicious hot soup and snacks. greenhouses, along with the bright electric boiling water up to 70 metres high, it dwarfs lights that make them clearly visible for its brother, ‘Strokkur’, which erupts every Hekla miles around. A lot of food is grown here 5–8 mins. Strokkur is nevertheless a dramatic Named ‘The Gateway to Hell’, the Hekla and the town has a flower festival every Travel through the Treasures of the North sight, sending a plume 18–30 metres high. volcano is one of the most famous and active year in June that attracts thousands. With The Golden Circle Surrounding these two giants are smaller volcanoes in Europe. It is clearly visible from a good hotel, golf course, good trout geysers, bubbling hot mud pools and bright Gullfoss or Geysir, rising out of the plain in the and char fishing in its rivers, numerous isitors come to Iceland for something Halldór Laxness, which has now been fi nally set up in 1930. It was then placed on blue-coloured clear pools of hot water. east, normally covered by a large snow cap. It famous artists and authors, it is another different, away from the norm. turned into a museum, the quaint little the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2004. A beautiful hotel with a restaurant, has erupted about every 10 years since 1970 and example of Iceland’s unique character. LetV others head south to the sun-baked houses in the rocks reminding the visitor Th e Þingvellir area is part of a fi ssure zone café and giftshop is at the site to provide its eruptions are usually quite explosive. It is due beaches—they want to experience of the Huldufólk or Hidden People or the that runs through Iceland. Th ese faults and refreshment and a place to enjoy the sights to erupt once again, though it has not shown Hellisheiði something unique. In that respect, southern episcopal see at Skálholt, also fi ssures mark the boundaries of the Eurasian in comfort over coff ee or a larger meal. any signs of doing so, at the time of writing. Leaving Hveragerði in the valley, there is the whole of Iceland meets that desire. the site of Iceland’s first school. and North American tectonic plates of the a climb up the steep side of Hellisheiði. However, for some, they do not have the However, what makes the Golden Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The effects of the Once at the top of this mountain, there is time to see everything the country off ers Circle so famous—and popular—are the shifting of the plates can be seen dramatically an awesome view of the countryside to the and taking the Golden Circle is like seeing three key sites that tours focus on: here as they slowly pull apart in the fractured south and east. Lava fi elds are punctuated a microcosm of the whole. ground and rocks. by plumes of steam rising high into the The Golden Circle generally refers Þingvellir (Th ingvellir) National Park Besides history, natural beauty and a air that turn golden in the evening sun. to a trip to see some key sites: the Þingvellir (‘Parliament Plains’) is the site rare geological site, Lake Þingvallavatn is Coming down off the mountain, the world’s oldest parliament in Þingvellir on which the world’s oldest parliament, the largest natural lake in Iceland. South of visitor can see an odd snake-like pattern (Thingvellir) National Park; the hot the ‘Alþingi’, an open-air assembly, was Þingvellir is the largest high-temperature area of pipes carrying hot water to the capital springs at Geysir, after which all the rest held in 930. It continued to meet for two in the country, where water, heated by contact from the new power stations that tap into of the world’s geysers are named; and the weeks a year until 1798. Following Ingólfur with the rock still hot underground, is forced the geothermal waters heated by the rocks power of the waterfall at Gullfoss. Arnarson’s landing in 870 AD, many others to the surface, where it much of it is converted beneath the mountain. It is possible to take a trip around the followed and the population grew steadily. into electricity and household heating. The Golden Circle encapsulates the Golden Circle in a few hours but the longer Th at brought the need for laws and a place unique flavour of Iceland in all its forms you can allow, the more you can see and to settle disputes and the Alþingi was the and beauty, its culture and history, past experience. Th ere are several tour companies result. and present. A brief article like this can who can take you on a Golden Circle Tour However, Þingvellir is not just a only hit some highlights but it’s worth and their experience is very valuable, as they fascinating historical site. It possesses a taking the time to investigate all the can point out a lot of features on the way very unusual natural beauty that could many features that surround the tour. that you might otherwise miss. have been lost to posterity had it not been Gullfoss Hveragerði Then, if you have the time available, All along the route you will find for the efforts of two early-20th century Just a few kilometres from Geysir stands Returning towards Reykjavík, the garden the rest of the country will only build features that are synonymous with—and men, Matthías Þórðarson and Guðmundur the spectacularly powerful double waterfall town of Hveragerði is a popular place on what you have seen on this, the most often unique to—Iceland such as the Davíðsson. Citing examples of protection of of Gullfoss (Golden Falls) on the Hvítá to stop for refreshments and buy local popular tour of Iceland. caldera at Kerið (Kerith, crater lake) or such special sites in the USA, the two lobbied (White River). Th e Hvítá has its source in the home of Nobel prize-winning author, for a national park to be established. Th is was the Hvítávatn lake on the Langjökull glacier, 40 km away in the highlands. Th e glacier is clearly visible amidst the mountains of the highlands from Gullfoss. It’s a wild spot and, as the river fi rst plunges down a three-step staircase and, in two wide steps, plunges into a 32 metre-deep crevice, it throws up a terrific spray that displays multiple rainbows in the bright sunshine. A bust has been erected to a nearby farmer’s daughter, Sigríður Tómasdóttir, who fought to preserve the falls when the government of the time was considering building a large hydroelectric power plant there, destroying one of Iceland’s natural wonders. The nation stood behind her and the government purchased the land for a national park instead. 8 9 rights. Alþingi continued to be held at Þingvellir until 1798. Today Þingvellir is a protected national A Very brief History874-930 of Iceland shrine. According to the law, passed in The Settlement of Iceland by the Vikings started in 874 and was largely completed by 930 AD. It was 1928, the protected area shall always be the precipitated largely by internal struggles in Norway between King Harald the Fairhaired and other property of the Icelandic nation, under the nobles. King Harald won a major victory late in the 8th century, after which he drove his enemies to the preservation of Alþingi. Scottish Isles, which he then later conquered. Many fl ed onwards to Iceland. The fi rst Viking settler in Iceland is believed to be Ingólfur Arnarson. He started a farm in Reykjavík. The A World Heritage Site years between 874 and 930 AD saw increasing numbers of Viking settlers arriving from Scandinavia Þingvellir National Park is not only impressive (bringing with them Celtic women and slaves) and claiming land in the habitable areas. for it’s historical importance, it is also a treasure in its own right. In the last few decades, 930 research has made it clear that Þingvellir is one of the natural wonders of the world, with Parliament: The Alþingi, Iceland’s present-day parliament, is the world’s oldest existing national the geologic history and biosystem of Lake assembly. A constitutional law code was written and the Alþingi parliament established. Founded at TheThe World’s Alþingi Longest Running at Parliament Þingvellir at the Continental Divide Þingvallavatn forming a unique entity. Þingvellir in 930 AD, the country’s democratic system of government was completely unique in its day. ingvellir National Park is perhaps Th e heathen lawmaker, named Þorgeir Being able to witness the evolution and The judicial power of the Alþingi was distributed among four regional courts, together with a supreme the most important historical site in Ljósvetningagoði, went to rest under a fur formation of new species in a place like court which convened annually at the national assembly at Þingvellir. The Alþingi assembled for two Iceland. From 930 to 1798 Þingvellir hosted blanket, under which he stayed the whole Lake Þingvallavatn is of immense value. Th e weeks every summer and attracted a large proportion of the population. Þ the Alþingi, a general assembly where many night, before he gave his verdict: Iceland Þingvellir area is part of a fi ssure zone running 1000-1106 of the major events in Icelandic history took would adopt Christianity, although through Iceland, being situated on the tectonic place. It is included on the list of UNESCO’s heathens could practice their religion plate boundaries of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. Christianity was peacefully adopted at Þingvellir in the year 1000 AD. The fi rst diocese was established world heritage sites as it is considered giving secretly. Th is coined a common saying in Th e faults and fi ssures of the area make the at Skálholt in South Iceland in 1056 and a second at Hólar in the north in 1106. Both became the ‘a unique reflection of mediaeval Norse/ Iceland, ‘to lie down underneath the fur,’ rifting of the earth’s crust evident. country’s main centres of learning. Germanic culture and one that persisted in which is said whenever a matter needs to Preservation measures at Þingvellir were essence from its foundation in 980 AD until be given serious thought. modelled on the national parks that had 1120-1230 the 18th century.’ been established somewhat earlier in the The Sagas include some of the classics of world medieval literature and are written in the ancient Parliament Under the King United States to stem changes to the natural Viking language—Old Norse. Between 1120 and 1230, the Norse Sagas were written down on vellum A Nationwide Assembly of Free Men The Alþingi took on a different role in environment there resulting from encroach- th in Iceland. The fi rst literary medium to emerge was poetry, which tended to be heroic in theme. Th e Alþingi initially was a general assembly the later part of the 12 century, when the ment by settlers. National parks conserved Poetry was then replaced by epic and dramatic tales of early settlement, romance, disputes and the of the nation, where the country’s most executive power was transferred to the King large uninhabited areas, which people could development of Iceland. eminent leaders gathered to set laws and settle of Norway with the adoption of the new visit and enjoy - but not settle or develop. 1244-1262 disputes. Th e Alþingi was considered the most legal corpora of the codex Járnsíða in 1271 important social gathering of the year and and Jónsbók in 1281. Now Alþingi shared Conquered: Norway laid a claim to Iceland and conquered the island in 1262 in a navy battle which Preserved for the World’s Enjoyment lasted two weeks each time. All free men were formal legislative power with the king and Iceland identifi ed a similar need to preserve resulted in the infamous Sturlung Age, a turbulent era of political treachery and violence, dominated allowed to attend and the event frequently both the king and Alþingi had to give its certain natural and historical sites for future by Sturla Thurdason and his sons. Iceland became a Norwegian and later a Danish province and didn’t drew a large crowd of farmers, traders, consent for laws to be passed. Toward the generations to enjoy them in their original regain it’s independence until 1944. storytellers, travellers and, of course, those end of the 14th century Norway and Iceland state. Today, Þingvellir is one of the most 1855-1890 who had disputes to settle. Th ese guests would were brought under the control of the frequently visited tourist sites in the country. each set up their own camps during Alþingi Danish monarchy through royal succession. Each year, thousands of visitors go there to Emmigration: In the last quarter of the 19th century, the Icelandic nation was beset by problems of and fragments of around 50 booths built from In 1662 Alþingi relinquished its autonomy become better acquainted with Iceland’s hardship, overpopulation, disease and famine. Icelanders had been emigrating west to North America turf and stone can still be found there today. to the Danish Crown, including legislative greatest historical site and jewel of nature. since 1855, but the fi rst organised journey was undertaken in 1873 when a large group sailed from At the centre of the assembly stands Akureyri. The greatest exodus to the west took place shortly after 1880 and the situation lasted until Lögberg, or Rock of Law, on top of which 1890, when living conditions began to improve. an appointed offi cial would direct the events and recite the laws of the land. 1904-1930 Home Rule came to Iceland with the appointment of the fi rst Icelandic government minister. In 1918, Decisions that Changed History Denmark, recognised Iceland as a fully sovereign state, united with Denmark under a common king. Many important decisions were taken at Denmark, though, retained responsibility for Iceland’s defence and foreign affairs. In 1930 there were Þingvellir and perhaps the most important huge celebrations at Þingvellir in honour of the millennial anniversary of the founding of the Alþingi one was the adoption of Christianity in the parliament. year 1000. At that time, Iceland was divided into two factions: heathens and Christians. 1944 Each faction had its own lawmaker and Independence: When the Germans occupied Denmark in April 1940, Iceland took over its own foreign refused to acknowledge the other group’s policy and proclaimed its neutrality. The island’s vulnerability and strategic value became a matter of legislation, thus threatening to dissolve concern for the Allies, who occupied Iceland in May 1940. Following a plebiscite, Iceland formally Alþingi. Famously, the two lawmakers became an independent republic on June 17, 1944. decided that the heathen lawmaker would decide which faith should prevail. 10 11 Volcanic Eruptions Every Five Years Iceland is one of the most active volcanic regions on earth, with eruption frequency of about 20 events per century. Iceland is home to more than 100 volcanoes and on average, a volcano erupts about every 5th year. Volcanoes define a wide spectrum of forms, ranging from a crack in the ground to the stately strato volcanoes like the Hekla volcano. Icelanders have learned to live with natural disasters and there is a risk that eruptions could take place at any time. Laki’s great eruption in 1783 is the largest lava eruption known to the world in historical times. Enormous quantities of lava poured out and devastated immense areas of land. Poisonous gases and ashes from the eruption led to crop failure and livestock deaths. In the famine that followed, one fi fth of Iceland’s population died. Fortunately for Iceland, such cataclysmic events are rare. A recent major eruption took place in 1973 when, without warning, a new volcano erupted on the eastern side of Heimaey in the Westman Islands. In 1963, further south, accompanied by columns of fi re, clouds of ash and rumbles of thunder, a completely new island emerged from the sea. Th is island is called Surtsey after Surtur, the fi re giant from Nordic mythology.

Melting the Ice Age Away After the last Ice Age, the land had changed and great mountain ranges had grown from the sub-glacial eruptions. Composed mainly he Icelandic National Costume holds of crumbly rocks, like easily eroded tuff and great signifi cance in the minds of most rhyolite, they are the beautifully coloured th Iceland Icelanders.T Every independence day (17 June), mountains at Landmannalaugar, the moss- an Icelandic actress is chosen to represent the clad cliff s of Þórsmörk and the grey ridges Fjallkona (the lady of the mountains) who that transect the northern desert. symbolises Iceland as a whole. Th e Fjallkona symbolised Where the eruptions were long enough, appears in full traditional garb; the splendid they broke through the ice and a hard cap Skautbúningur, complete with elaborate LandThe geology ofof Iceland Contrasts of lava formed. After the ice melted, flat- embroidery, belt of linked silver, silver brooch in clothes celand is a land of contrasts and diversity to be fed by a deep mantle plume. At the topped ‘table’ mountains appeared, of which and a high white headdress. where beautifully colored lava, wide plate boundary the two major plates, the Herðubreið is the most striking. History preserved expansesI of sand, and the power of its Eurasia and North America Plates, move The older parts of Iceland, the east, Independence costume In order to preserve knowledge of the waterfalls all interplay. Only a short drive apart today with a velocity of about 19 north and north-west of the island were Th e origin of the Icelandic costume is unclear, Icelandic traditional costume and the making from Reykjavík one fi nds oneself in a vast mm/year. Th e divergence continues today eroded during the Ice Ages and steep- as historical evidence is scarce before the 16th of these costumes, the Ministry of Education wilderness where lava formations resemble and is accompanied by earthquakes, sided valleys and fjords were formed. century. But from the 16th and 17th century and Culture established a National Costume modern sculpture, bubbling holes of mud reactivation of old volcanoes and creation Th ose mountains are made of many layers evidence is more readily available from paintings Board in 2001. Th is board has since collected with superheated water are found, glaciers of new volcanoes. The best place in the of basalts from eruptions that built the and manuscripts. Interest in the traditional and supported extensive research on the fi ll valleys and geysers explode. world to study divergent plate boundaries foundations of the island. Because of costume grew considerably in the 19th century Icelandic traditional costume. is Þingvellir (Thingvellir), a short drive Iceland’s location, on the Mid-Atlantic when Iceland’s campaign for independence Th roughout its history the national costume Geological Hot Spot from Reykjavík where one can observe Ridge, the island will be in the process from Danish rule gained momentum. The has developed and adjusted to diff erent fashion You can catch a glimpse of the Icelandic On a geological time scale, Iceland is a both faults and tension fissures related of formation and transformation. Its old costume proved a useful tool for a nation with a landscapes and now has several variations, National Costume at Árbæjarsafn. very young country. It is situated astride a to the rifting and drifting of the North parts, the east and west carried away by growing sense of national identity and became including: Peysuföt, Upphlutur, Kyrtill, divergent plate boundary, the Mid-Atlantic American and Eurasian plates away the elements, while new parts are created a symbolic icon for Iceland’s spirit. Skautbúningur and Faldbúningur. Further information at www.buningurinn.is Ridge, and on top of a hotspot presumed from each other. by volcanic action. 12 13 Forging Iceland Pioneers Clean Energy has proven to have serious weaknesses, as shown with 14 other organisations throughout he world of tomorrow will no longer by the major incidents at Three Mile Island, Scandinavia, both in academic and business be powered by polluting fossil fuels. the FutureChernobyl and Japan. Nuclear waste is also a arenas. Tidal energy is also being researched WithT the world’s oil, coal and gas reserves very challenging issue, for which no truly safe at the university. dwindling, attention is being focussed on and eff ective solution has been found. alternative forms of energy generation. Hydrogen Power Although a very small country, Iceland is on Renewable Energy Resources In an eff ort to reduce dependence on oil, Global the cutting edge of both research and use of According to fi gures compiled in 2007, hydro Energy prize winner, physicist Þorsteinn Ingi clean energy resources. Th e country has shown power led the field in installed capacity at Sigfússon and his team at the University of that it is possible to use clean energy, even 87.5%, followed by Biomass with 4.5%, Wind Iceland and Innovation, (the government- close to the Arctic Circle. Whether houses is well under way to address the remaining According to research published by Dr. with 6.6%, Geothermal at 1% and Solar at sponsored centre to promote development and amount of time and investment that has are heated by geothermal energy or powered 18% of energy requirements: that of Ingvar Friðleifsson, Director of the UN 0.4%. Th e potential for each of these resources marketing of new ideas), Daimler-Chrysler, been poured into the internal combustion by hydroelectricity, Iceland has shown that it transportation. Experiments with hydrogen- University in Reykjavík, 70% of the world’s is so great, however, that all the expected Norsk Hydro and Shell Hydrogen, have engine, progress has been very signifi cant. is not only possible but an environmentally powered buses, methane or electric cars have population uses less than a quarter of the future energy needs could technically be met already got probably the world’s most crowded Th is work is not being done in isolation very friendly way to power a modern society. proven the feasibility of these alternative energy per capita of W. Europe and one sixth through renewable resources. hydrogen station in the world running in but is being shared with the international By having the political will, support from energy sources. In other areas, recycling has of the USA. Two billion people or one third Reykjavík, currently serving 2,000 cars. community. An example of this is Russia’s the business and academic sectors and an led to towns being powered through energy of the world’s population have no access to Iceland’s Role Th e potential power gains from hydrogen investment in the establishing of a large environment that encourages innovation, a lot generated from waste disposal and bio diesel energy resources. Th is is not only a moral Iceland uses not only its natural resources fuel cells far surpass the capacity of current centre for renewable energy at the university of progress has already been made. is freely available at fuel stations. issue but a societal challenge of immense but the intellect and skills of its people. battery storage technology, making them an in the 400 year-old city of Tomsk, in Siberia. Whilst, clearly, each country has to proportions, especially given the anticipated Since 1951, Icelandic geothermal experts ideal power source for vehicles. Hyundai is Taking another approach, Reykjavík assess its own resources and capabilities, if A Worldwide Challenge increase in the world’s population. A key have worked as consultants in over 50 introducing a hydrogen-powered car with a City has installed recharging centres for a small nation such as Iceland can develop In this fast-changing world, countries are still issue, therefore, is how to improve the living countries on all continents. When the UN range of 500 km, opening the door for the battery-powered cars and the N1 energy a renewable energy policy that currently heavily dependent on fossil fuels for their energy standards of the poor and, in this context, discussed the need for the development of further expansion of the concept. company has installed some of its service meets 82% of its needs, then larger and more needs. A full 79% of current energy needs are met energy plays a vital role. alternative energy forms, Iceland stepped up Using hydrogen to power fuel cells with stations with methane pumps for the affl uent societies can fi nd hope in reducing by oil-based products yet, with the developing Th e only conceivable way to increase world and opened a UN university in Reykjavík battery storage for the excess energy, the increasing number of hybrid cars. their dependence on fi nite fossil fuels. world’s energy needs growing and oil reserves energy supply is to develop renewable energy in 1978 focusing on the geothermal aspects. vision of the non-polluting electric car is A transportation system whose only Such is the impetus to become as dwindling, alternative energy forms are needed resources. Nuclear energy, once thought Hydrogen use is actively pursued. Wind steadily becoming reality. However, there byproduct is clean water would have a major independent of fossil fuels as possible that the to fi ll the void. At present, all renewable energy capable of providing all the world’s needs, research is currently under way by a team in are still great challenges and problems to impact on the world with a drastic cut in development of hydrogen-powered fuel cells forms contribute only 14% of the world’s energy. currently supplies 7% of the world’s energy. It the University of Iceland, in collaboration be overcome but when compared to the pollution and health issues to name just two. 14 15 16 discipline, each from talents their combining work together, can who teams By training America. Central to Africa to China from countries developing 44 from scientists 424 trained has Reykjavík in Programme the University UN Geothermal Training years, 30 past For the source. energy powerful this into tap to needed technologies the all electricity. and heat -both sources geothermal from came energy of primary 66% By 2009, spa. health Blue Lagoon now-famous of the creation the was peninsula Reykjanes the in off unexpected stations these of shoot one of power. supply to One source geothermal this using stations generating electricity to Th steam. and of hot water is sources led new many produced centuries, many hot after still rocks, volcanic into Drilling more. much for potential was there on that early realised was However, it hot tubs. and pools swimming in used been also has water the hot springs, in ground the upfrom Bubbling Reykjavík. in installed was heating 1930, geothermal In of Iceland. parts many in houses heat to used been now, has hot water years For many Basement the in Fire the Using A wealth of experience has been gained in in gained been has of experience A wealth map of the country, showing the most the showing country, of the map awind built has Office Meteorological ‘IceWind’. Icelandic The named a project on working are companies Scandinavian and universities other with conjuction in of Iceland, University the at a professor Jónasson, by Kristján led Ateam, generation. wind for potential the has definitely effigreater power. and ciency develop to undertaken being research of deal agreat still is However, there worldwide. applied being is that technology amature is generation power Wind Wind the in Blowing times that of hydroelectricity. that times 100 is potential technical Its applied. be can technology the where worldwide locations many are there and power solar and wind unlike of energy, supplies consistent most off resources the er Geothermal programme. acost-effective provide to maintained is communication close and professionals Icelandic bythe area each done in is Follow-up programme. development acomprehensive develop can countries Iceland, living under the jet stream, stream, jet the under living Iceland, the production of aluminium. of production the for glacier Vatnajökull of the north area the in electricity generates which MW), (690 Kárahnjúkavirkjun is byfar station hydroelectric power. power The largest through been has generation electricity of 80% power. Over hydroelectric for developed now been have that country the 1904. Thin throughout sites many are ere fi built was station power hydroelectric rst Th waterfalls. powerful most e and glaciers of Europe’s some largest has Iceland Water Power 13 times that of hydroelectricity. that 13 times almost is worldwide energy of wind potential 2% Th of world energy. produces technical e currently power. Wind constant produce to hydro and wind combine to is one plan model, mathematical acomplex Developing utilised. be can capacity generating greater amuch height, 100 min about windmills tall byusing so levels, lower at than consistent more and stronger much mor more is of 90 Th Búrfell. height atawind near project e pilot a planning company, is energy country’s the Landsvirkjun, farms. wind for sites potential these fj by the these pipeline in already were ords fjfor Bridges turbines. the to house ords adjacent across built be will crossings two constructed, is barrage the if bonus: added an Mw. is 75-80 But there be fjintoBreiðafj emptying ords would örður the from harnessed be can that power real the that He found he says. tides,” high low and between difference height the measure former. “It will the with tidal current plant. a and plant barrage a tidal envisaged: years. few next the in functional Westfjbeto expected and of Iceland ords the in located be to are sources innovative simple. and safe relatively is technology osmotic that power, says tidal and energy of osmotic development the with involved been also has who (ICI), Iceland Centre Innovation the at Sigfusson Ingi Þorsteinn needs. energy future meet to power tidal and osmotic at now looking are scientists and energy to it comes when ambitious are Icelanders Power Tidal Bjarni M. Jónsson has been involved been has Jónsson M. Bjarni are types power, two tidal for As these tapping plants power Prototype transform them in the same way. same the in them transform help to best its doing is and countries developing of needs the of understanding an has Iceland century, last of the particular. in countries, developing and community international the to benefit of great be will that worldwide home at and both resources renewable of development for force the adynamic created has Centre, Innovation Kefl at university theand Keilir new avík Ththe UN University, the with along is, energy. renewable and fi engineering of elds the in research and of learning top centres one of the being as 2011, recognised is in centenary its celebrated of Iceland, University now the and population student university the in growth amassive been World Second War, of the end has there the Since education. their gain to abroad travel to had engineers and scientists its all and Europe in country poorest the considered was 1900, Iceland Around to Plenty From Poverty would combine both projects. projects. both combine would plan the so Authority, Roads Icelandic the From its humble state at the beginning beginning the at state From humble its – asF 17

Images by Olgeir Andresson moved repeatedly by wind and water erosion large areas, in total over possibly causing further abrasive damage. 2,170 ha of land, where existing vegetation Risks can be reduced by a build-up was either strengthened with fertilizer of healthy ecosystems, which increases distribution or areas were reseeded in order resilience and provides a better capability to reduce damage from post-eruption storms for surviving ash fallout. The common of re-suspended ash. range lands in the highlands that are The Soil Conservation Service of now degraded pose Iceland’s most serious Iceland and the Road Administration were environmental problem. Existing vegetation instrumental in flood prevention actions, in common range lands is generally sparse repairing various river bank barriers that and low growing and is therefore vulnerable were damaged due to fl oods of glacial melt- to disruption. Ash fall onto such land can be water caused by the volcanic activity and catastrophic—as seen in recent events. then later by repeated rain-induced fl oods Resilience to catastrophic events can be in ash fi lled river channels. drastically improved by land reclamation efforts. Distribution of fertilizer and sometimes seeds or tree-planting can provide degraded ecosystems with the extra help they need on the road to recovery. Use of the natural succession of vegetation over a long- time period is the only reasonable method to achieve signifi cant results over the large areas that need assistance, for both economic reasons and also lack of machine accessibility. Th e future land use is an important aid The Soil Conservation Service of in this respect. Sustainable management Iceland has, for more than a century, is important, revegetation of land and promoted encouragement of sustainable restoration of natural birch forests and land use and appropriate management of willows (up to 500 m elevation) now has fragile ecosystems through better land- increased importance. Th e vegetation cover use planning and development activities. increases the surface roughness, lowers the Now the build-up of Iceland’s degraded wind speed near the surface and limits the ecosystems has the additional aim of damaging eff ects of wind erosion of tephra preventive measures to reduce the risk and How Iceland responded to the volcanic disasters and future plans and ash material that is repeatedly blown vulnerability to natural hazards. –aMÁ Lessons up into the atmosphere, years and even from the Eruptions centuries after the eruption has ceased. Sagnagardur is the information- and celanders have had to deal with 205 Ash deposition can also affect hydrology come. For example, there is the need to buried, seasonal timing, water availability, Eff ective governance through alignment visitor centre of the Soil Conservation volcanic eruptions since the island and air quality. strengthen existing vegetation; and the toxicity etc. Vigorous ecosystems with tall of policies, e.g.: land use planning and Service of Iceland. wasI settled 1100 years ago. Recently the Nearby farming communities suffered destruction of grazing land calls for changes. vegetation generally have greater endurance zoning, natural resources management, world’s modern lifestyle also had a little damage to their fi elds, rangelands, livestock How well vegetation can tolerate this ash capability; the sheltering effect minimizes agricultural policies, mitigation action In Sagnagardur, which was opened in 2011, the taste of this medicine when an eruption in and property where ash fallout occurred. disturbance, or how resilient ecosystems are the secondary wind transport of ash, and against climate change through revegetation history of ecological degradation and soil erosion Eyjafj allajökull caused enormous disruption Th e uncertainty of the immediate eff ects of against deposition of volcanic ash depends hastens the incorporation of ash into the and carbon sequestration, restoration of in Iceland is presented in text and pictures. to air travel across northern and western the hazard has now worn off . on various factors eg: the depth of burial, soil. Whereas when ash falls onto areas with natural birch forests, along with coherent The exhibition presents the battle against the Europe over an initial period of six days The uncertainty involved what was species’ capability of regeneration when little or no vegetation, it is unstable and easily legislation, multi-sectoral coordination with harsh forces of nature and consequences of in April 2010, and again in 2011 when happening, where, for how long; health eff ective knowledge sharing, are important volcanic eruptions and gives an account of the the Grímsvötn volcano erupted. Volcanic concerns; the fl ood risks; care concerns for in successful risk management. pioneers in land reclamation. Some light is shed activity is prevalent in Iceland, with active people and animals with limited housing Recent eruptions clearly taught the on the general attitude and public disbelief in regions covering 30% of the land and with capacity during the lambing period; value of assistance in emergency response, land reclamation during the early years and a a historical eruption frequency of 20–25 concerns ensuring livestock’s access to recovery measures and preventive review is presented of the 100 year history of events per 100 years. clean water and suffi cient food; the diffi cult measures against natural hazards. The soil conservation and land reclamation efforts There is considerable risk for tephra or living conditions when fi ne ash penetrates Soil Conservation Service of Iceland in Iceland. Furthermore, the exhibition shows ash deposits to occur, as 80% of historic everywhere. Th ere were fi nancial concerns, aided farming communities hit under the the approach and methods applied in today’s eruptions have been explosive eruptions all the decisions to be taken; whether to stay latest eruptions, as it had revegetated land soil conservation endeavours, major schemes with tephra fallout. Ash can damage or or evacuate and, in areas further away, what available that could be used as emergency in land reclamation and ecosystem restoration destroy vegetation by the initial direct the wind direction would be that day and grazing lands, so livestock could be are listed, as well as participation in international burial or with sandblasting effects from who would be next? transported from the area most aff ected by programs. post-eruptive transport either by water However today, months after the eruption the ash fall to temporarily safe rangeland or wind, extending the area of influence has ceased, the eff ects are ongoing and will areas. Also, the Soil Conservation Service sagnagarður will be open 9:00-16:00, June 1st - september 15th far away from the initial deposition area. continue to affect the area in the years to of Iceland executed recovery measures over 18 19 Lighting theThe spectacular Northern Lights night captured by Olgeir andrésson for all to enjoy

inter in Iceland is a complete the solar cycle reaches its peak. Across Th eir shape and patterns change by the contrast to its summers. Th ose long the entire country on almost every clear moment and they really do appear to be Capturing the beauty of the Northern Lights summerW nights, when the sun barely dips night, these brilliant, swirling lights in the dancing as they sweep across the sky. Whilst has been a life-long project for Olgeir below the horizon are replaced by darkness sky Th ere is never one night the same as they can be seen in Reykjavík, the city lights Andrésson. He travels for hours to fi nd the settling in early in the afternoons. However, another. Th ey appear, dance across the sky don’t allow their full beauty to be visible and spots he feels they will be at their best and all is not blackness as the snows transform in a ballet of light, only to disappear as so it has become popular to take a tour out then spends hours fi lming them, sacrifi cing sleep and comfort to get the best shots. the landscape into an ethereal picture of abruptly as they came. into the countryside or to travel to diff erent Over the years, he has developed numerous beauty unlike any other. Not only that, Th is will be the best time to view them and parts of the country to enjoy them. © Immages: Olgeir Andrésson techniques to portray both them and his but those frosty nights, when the skies are the time when the chance of viewing them Just as they are never the same any given surroundings at their best. Using a good crystal clear, the unique Aurora Borealis can is higher than in past years. Experiencing night, so they appear diff erently according to camera with long exposures, he has produced fi ll them with works of art that are constantly the Northern Lights display in person can where you are viewing them in the country. some stunning displays of this phenomenon changing in an entrancing display that draws be awesome. Th e nights generally need to Photos you see are a moment, frozen in time that most would never get the opportunity to many to Iceland just to enjoy them. be chilly and clear. Any time from 6 pm of an event that will be very diff erent just see in their lifetime. He has become a master Th e 2012—2013 winter is expected to onwards, the Lights can appear, starting as a minute later. Th us, this is a performance in his craft and his masterpieces could adorn provide the most spectacular season of a glow and frequently becoming so bright that can be enjoyed every night they appear, any art gallery, company or home. Northern Lights for the next decade as that everything around is clearly visible. often for hours at a time. –asF How to Get the Best Pictures and Memories of the Northern Lights

What to Wear Naturally, coming to Iceland in winter Th e L ns e good pictures but also for your own safety. Enjoyrequires diff erent clothing than the summer the LightsSecondly, a wide-angle lens is important to Icelandic weather can change very quickly months. However, the weather is not usually be able to shoot as wide a picture as possible and you don’t want to be out on a distant as bitter as in many other European or North to get the greatest impact. The faster the glacier in when a sudden snowstorm American countries. Nevertheless, being lens, the better, of course. strikes! If you plan to travel with a out for several hours at night, standing and tour, they will know the weather report watching or photographing the Northern A Tripod and they have good communications Lights, you do need to be warmly dressed Given that you are going to be taking long equipment with them. and especially, a warm hat, gloves, scarves, exposures, some solid form of stabilisation socks and good shoes or boots. Of course, is essential. Th at means a good tripod. You Where to Go? you can buy these here from the people who can’t rely on a perfectly shaped rock to You will fi nd the Northern Lights all across know the weather conditions the best. always be conveniently available and you the country but the main criterion for good will not be happy if you miss these once-in- viewing is to be away from the lights of the out on the Reykjanes peninsula but he has How to get the Best Photos Th e Camera number of consumer cameras that have a-lifetime shots! city. There are many spots not far from also been known to frequently travel to Olgeir has been taking photos of the Firstly, a simple point-and-shoot camera this feature and it is not absolutely a town or city where the light pollution the West or the South to get those special Northern Lights for many years and has won’t give you the features you will need necessary to have a professional level Th e Weather Report is not. However, because you will be pictures for which he is so famous. developed techniques that make his photos for this specialist-type of photography. A camera. You may need to consider the Th e Icelandic Weather bureau issues daily shooting with long exposures, it’s especially Remember that the photos you take will special. However, that doesn’t mean that you digital SLR camera with exposure control working temperature of your camera if reports on the weather and the likelihood worthwhile taking the countryside into be a unique record. The same image will can’t take impressive photos yourself but that allows you to leave the shutter open you are planning to be out for long on a of viewing the Northern Lights and it is account so you will get photos of both never again be taken by anyone else. You will

there are some basics you will need. on a timer is best. Th ere are an increasing particularly cold night. important to check these—not only to get the landscape and the sky. Olgeir is often have that to treasure when you get home. © Immages: Olgeir Andrésson 22 23 Europe’sFive Years from Fish Soup Only to Soft Leather Fish Tannery LeatherFabulous Fish Creations fromfrom Sútarinn’s the Tannery Sea une 10th marked the offi cial opening of tanneries that were donated by Glaumbaer, potted leopard print leather in turquoise cow or sheep leather with its variety of Still a skeptic? Th en come take a look at Sútarinn, the last remaining Icelandic which collaborates in projects to preserve and chartreuse leaps from glossy patterns, which change according to the Sútarinn, Atlantic Leather’s economuseum tanneryJ and now economuseum. The Skagafj örður’s history. Smagazine pages. But these daring spots species of fish. Wolf fish sports spots, in Sauðárkrókur. Guests can take a tour to museum guides guests through the tanning Sútarinn uses fish skin, which would come from wolf fish tanned at Sútarinn, perch has rough and raw scales, while see the process fi rsthand and walk away with process from stripping the fat off translucent otherwise be thrown away. Most of its fi sh Iceland’s only tannery. Shocking as it may salmon leather is thin and moulds to fi t any some of the latest fi sh leather fashions. fi sh skins to adding fi nishing details to dried skins come from a factory in Dalvík, a seem, fi sh is the latest trend in leather and contour. Th ough skins are dyed and treated skins. Th e idea to start a museum came when town an hour away. Th e majority of skins has begun to climb its way from the bottom visitors to the town of Sauðarkrókur got are exported, but some Icelandic designers of the sea to the top fashion world. wind that Europe’s only fi sh leather tannery have decided to work with the new material. Though the idea for using fish leather was operating nearby. Last year, Sútarinn A shop in Sútarinn features products from is not novel, the process has been refi ned. received between four and five thousand Icelandic designers and fi sh skins themselves Fish leather shoes were worn in Iceland visitors. It was then that they had to decide for purchase. Traditional double hundreds of years ago, but their quality whether to open their doors completely or face sheepskins, calf skins, was questionable. A popular joke was to ask fi rmly shut the tannery to guests. and ostrich skins are also how many fi sh leather shoes it took to get to enhance their pattern, they are simply a processed at the tannery. from one place to another. This dilemma soft and scentless version of nature’s original A Crazy Invention was solved by the inventive Atlantic Leather design. All chemicals used in the tanning Aided by IMPRA, a branch of the Icelandic Five years later, they had developed a process company, which and dyeing process are EU approved. Innovation Centre committed to aiding and created Atlantic Leather. By 2000, their takes fish skin companies starting new projects and work fi sh leather had the same softness as leather byproducts Out of Weakness, Made Strong developed by entrepreneurs and inventors, from cows and no residual smell; the process from Dalvík, in Th e questions in everyone’s minds revolve Sútarinn has grown from an experiment in was perfected and Sútarinn remained the North Iceland around the quality and durability of fish the inventive search for new materials into only tannery left in Iceland. and turns them leather. Fish leather is surprisingly strong, a rapidly developing for-profit museum. into skins that even stronger than other kinds of leather While other tanneries struggled to compete A Rare View of Tanning can be made into because it has cross-hatched fibres rather with each other, Sútarinn opted for a new Sútarinn’s determination has made it what shoes, bags, clothes than fi bres that run in only one direction. approach and began working with fi sh skins it is today and is part of the reason for –KB and furniture. Despite the normally pungent smell of –KB Sútarinn Atlantic Leather in 1989. the econo-museum, which gives visitors a fish, the treatment eliminates any smell “People thought that we were crazy in rare view of tanning from start to finish. so that few people can even recognise the Borgarmýri 5 • 550 Sauðárkrókur From Waste to Haute Couture Borgarmýri 5 • 550 Sauðárkrókur those early years,” grins Gunnsteinn, owner Sútarinn combines their tannery tour with +354 512 8025 Couture clothing designers like Alexander diff erence between fi sh and other types of +354 453 59 10 of both companies working at Sútarinn: a historical overview of tanning in Iceland. [email protected] Wang, Sigerson & Morrison and Helmut leather. Better yet, fi sh leather is a byproduct [email protected] Atlantic Leather and Loðskinn. “All we had Sútarinn has tools used in tanning, early www.sutarinn.is Lang have all bought skins from Atlantic of food processing so it creates value from www.atlanticleather.is at fi rst was thousands of litres of fi sh soup.” photographs, and clothes produced from old Leather. Fish leather trumps more mundane something otherwise thrown away. 24 25 BestWhere and when to watch birds inin Iceland BirdwatchingOther target species mid-April to mid-May, when the nesting the Gulf Stream, while inland, some bodies Iceland represents the southernmost limit of season begins. Th is peaks in June, and peters of water remain unfrozen throughout the op sites: You don’t need to go far to the Westfj ords, the Flói Nature Reserve in the breeding range for several High Arctic out in July. Autumn migration lasts from winter due to geothermal springs or spring- watch birds in Iceland as there are good southern Iceland and the Vestmannaeyjar birds. Few places offer better opportunities late July until the end of October. fed rivers, and so Iceland’s winter birdlife is birdwatchingT sites almost anywhere, even in archipelago off the south coast. Perhaps the than Iceland to see Pink-footed Goose, Long- Coastal seas, especially off the southwest, quite varied. central Reykjavík. Among the places most most famous birdwatching site in Iceland, tailed Duck, Ptarmigan, Gyr Falcon, Red are relatively warm due to the infl uence of regularly visited by overseas birdwatchers however, is the Mývatn-Laxá area in north- Phalarope, Red-necked Phalarope, Glaucous Th e origins of Iceland’s birds are the Snæfellsnes peninsula in western east Iceland, where more species of duck Gull, Brünnich’s Guillemot and Snow Bunting. Iceland’s flora and fauna is largely Iceland, the vast sea-cliff s at Látrabjarg in breed than anywhere else in Europe, 14 Red Phalarope, Gyr Falcon and White-tailed European (Western Palearctic) in origin. species in total, in addition to numerous Eagle all enjoy special protection and visiting a Several species, however, have colonised other species. However, birds can be found nesting site of these species is strictly prohibited. the country from the west, and Iceland can throughout the country and the best areas Another popular bird is the Atlantic Puffi n, therefore said to be the meeting point of are often close to water. Th is is especially which is best seen in the Westman Islands east and west. Iceland furthermore marks true in winter, when birdwatching on the archipelago, the islands of Breiðafj örður bay, the southern breeding limit for several coast is almost always more rewarding than the cliff s at Látrabjarg or in Borgarfj örður eystri. species and the northern limit for several Images by © Jóhann Óli Hilmarsson inland. Many European birdwatchers are others and, as such, is also the meeting particular keen to see Iceland’s ‘Big Four’, When they can be seen point of north and south. –JÓH i.e. Harlequin Duck, Barrow’s Goldeneye, Birdwatching is an all-year activity in Jóhann Óli is President of BirdLife Iceland Gyr Falcon and Brünnich’s Guillemot, all of Iceland. Th e best time of year, in the view and author of the Icelandic Bird Guide. which are relatively easy to fi nd at the right of the author, is from mid-April to the end Translation by Edward B. Rickson time of year or in the right areas. of June. Spring migration is at its peak from 26 27 The Icelandic

strong and hardy, Icelandic sheep contributed to the nation’s survival their father is and on which dates his lambs Th e Réttir (Round-up) After the sheep have been herded into heep. They seem to be everywhere, forces: water, wind, fi re and ice, as well as are due. It’s important to know the date Farmers gather their fl ocks in the autumn. the correct pens they are divided up. Those wandering freely all over the mountains and the encroachment of men and animals has, of delivery so that he can keep the mother Systematically, they round up the sheep all destined for the slaughterhouse are removed Shighlands as if they own the country. Th ey are in the course of time, disturbed the layer indoors when she gives birth and to be able to over the country. There is practically no from the flock. Those destined to live graze one of the most common animals in Iceland. of surface vegetation. When destroyed, a shelter the newborns on their fi rst days. Each place in the wilderness of the highlands of on fi elds on or near the farm, until November, SheepIcelandic sheep are so called short–tailed chain reaction of soil erosion begins which farmer has a special earmark, cut into one of Iceland where sheep cannot be found during when they are housed for the winter . animals, an ancient Nordic Breed which was is diffi cult to stop. Th is shows how hard the the lamb’s ears soon after its birth. the summer—except maybe on the glaciers. Sheep used to be sheared before they were formerly common in the north part of Western struggle for survival has been in Iceland. This traditional book-keeping method Th e round-up is conducted on horseback or released to roam the pastures. Nowadays, most Europe, but now only found in a few areas of The sheep has been called one of the keys would make it easy for farmers to provide on foot with the assistance of sheepdogs. Th e farmers shear them in winter when they are the world. It is a strong, hardy breed which has to survival the country in the old times. Th e a genealogical tree of the meat you are entire process may take up to a week and, indoors, as this wool fetches a higher price. adapted well to Icelandic conditions. animals could survive on winter grazing, and purchasing! Today, the lambs are also tagged during this time, participants stay overnight The Icelandic sheep is special in many the people fed themselves on their meat and with modern plastic eartags. in mountain huts, where they pen in the A Valuable Resource ways. Part of the breed is called ‘leader milk and made warm clothes from the wool. Nowhere else in the world are sheep bred sheep they have gathered so far, then hang Wool was one of the country’s most sheep’ and possesses unique qualities, not Since the last decades of the 20th century, steps by this method because in most countries the up their damp clothes, uncork their hip important exports during the Middle Ages found in any other sheep breed in the world. have been taken to fi ght erosion by reforestation, sheep simply have their lambs outdoors and no fl asks and swap stories and songs. (along with dried fi sh, known as stock fi sh). Many stories have been told of their rescuing reseeding and other programmes to protect one knows anything about their genealogy. When the search is over and all the It became the basis of a valuable export both men and other sheep from danger. sensitive areas from overuse by men and Th e lambs are born in May and stay with sheep are accounted for, the fat frisky industry again in the 20th century. Around 1980, there were about 10 times animals. Government regulation now prohibits their mothers all summer long. After the fi rst lambs, ewes and rams are herded down The fleece of the Icelandic sheep, which more sheep than people in the country or unsustainable use of land. One of these steps few days indoors, they graze on grass fi elds on to the lowlands and into a corral called a varies in colour from white through grey and around 2,000,000 sheep (including the has been to reduce the number of sheep so now the farm for 3-4 weeks. Then they are sent ‘réttir’, where they are identifi ed by their browns to near black, is made up of two layers. summer lambs) and 226,948 inhabitants. there are 475,000 adult sheep in the country or out to graze the hills and mountain pastures earmarks and sorted into the correct pens, Th e inner layer of short, fi ne fi bres, called ‘thel’ The number has now been reduced by 1,100,000, including the summer lambs. all over the country, running free until the belonging to individual farms. was used for knitting delicate laces, underwear almost half, because of overgrazing in some middle of September, feeding on the rich and The réttir is a popular event across the and baby clothes while the coarser, longer, cases but also market developments. Lambing Time nourishing vegetation. During the intervening country and most Icelanders like to take part outer fibres, called ‘tog’ were used for warm In former times, sheep were allowed to The mating season is in December. The time, the farmer harvests the hay to feed his in it, be they bureaucrats or bankers, school- and water resistant winter garments. Today graze freely all year round, even in winter. farmer registers the individual matings, and sheep during the winter. Only about 1% of children or teachers, sailors or seamstresses. the soft spun ‘lopi wool’ is used in traditionally Th is had disastrous eff ects when the climate their dates. So when the lambing season Iceland is cultivated. Th is means that most of Some travel companies offer foreign patterned hand knitted sweaters, the most became cooler. The interaction of natural starts, he can look into his book to see who the grass and plants the sheep feed on is wild. travellers the opportunity to participate also. popular souvenirs from Iceland. –aMB 28 29 Nutritional Facts carcass weighs around 16 kg (35 lbs). In an environment where consumers are The muscle has a high proportion of increasingly conscious of their health, Omega-3 fatty acids and iron, giving food must be safe to eat, pure and the meat its wild game flavour. The It is Lamb-season in Iceland when the year’s fresh meat is celebrated throughout the country nutritious. For these reasons, Icelandic distinctive taste is a result of the wild Tendercelanders love their lamb and autumn Sheep isfarming in Icelandthe is as old as the clean airmeat and an abundant supply of fresh lamb meat is becoming recognised pastures; the grass and the aromatic and is the traditional lamb-season with settlement of Iceland itself. To this day mountain water make the use of pesticides throughout the world for its healthy spicy herbs on which the lambs graze. theI 4–5 month-old livestock being farmers are rearing their sheep by a method and herbicides unnecessary. Th e cool climate nutritional value and unique taste. The Some subtle differences have been slaughtered after roaming the highlands established by centuries of tradition, with protects the land against many diseases and Icelandic sheep is a direct descendant of noted between the flavour of meat from throughout the summer. Closer to most farms still family-owned and operated. pests which plague agriculture in warmer the sheep first brought to the island by the lambs grazing in the highlands, the game than farm-animals, the meat is Th e breed is still the same as in the time of latitudes. Due to Iceland’s geographical Viking settlers. It has not been crossbred lowlands, and by the seashore. The meat exceptionally tender, its texture fine and the Vikings—sturdy small animals, well isolation and agricultural regulation, by importing other breeds. is very tender and has a fine texture due nutritious enough to have carried many adapted to the environment. which prohibits the importing of live The cold climate influences the to its high amount of red muscle fibres, an Icelander, adult and child, through animals, many common animal diseases are composition of the plants the sheep which is influenced both by the breed relentlessly harsh winters. Th e Protective Cold unknown in Iceland. graze on. The lambs also move freely and its grazing habits. The tenderness is Much of Iceland’s lamb production is Th e lambs are entirely reared outdoors. through extensive wild pastures in enhanced by electrical stimulation and Traditional Quality simply based on sustainable harvesting Th eir natural diet of sedge, willow, thrift, pristine mountainous landscapes. strict control of chilling rates. When producing high quality meat, you of the bounties of nature. The use of mass campion, and berries makes the This, and the young age at slaughter And the best thing about the need unpolluted raw materials and Icelandic hormones is prohibited and antibiotics are Icelandic lamb instantly recognizable for its (4–5 months), gives the meat unique Icelandic lamb: It is the perfect match sheep farmers can guarantee as much. strictly regulated. The Icelandic weather, delicious and distinctive taste. quality and properties. The average to any kind of herbs and spices. –ss 30 31 drawn to the Romanticist and Reform movements like the Unitarian church. He read the works of Ralph Waldo Emerson and was said to be Iceland’s most able proponent of the liberal religious position. He translated many works from different languages, including a number of Shakespeare’s works, but it was his prolific poetry that made him popular. He wrote his most famous poem for the 1,000 year celebration of Ingólfur Árnason’s pioneering of the country. This was destined to become Iceland’s national anthem. He was the first poet to be granted a pension and the title of National Poet by the Alþingi, the Icelandic governing body HalldórThe Nobel Prize-winning Laxness Writer from Iceland in 1900, when he retired as a clergyman. alldór Laxness (1902-1998) stands as a The Writings of a Master Through his religious poetry, hymns luminary amongst the other Icelandic In the 1920’s, he wrote a modernist novel and funeral elegies, along with his heroic writersH of the 20th century. He was a prolific with a surrealist overlay, ‘The Great Weaver narrative poems, he continued to preach author during his long career, writing 13 from Kashmir’ (1927), as well as progressive Christian faith and humanity. major novels, five plays and a dramatisation poetry, while in the 1930’s, he wrote social of one of his novels, not to mention his realist novels, including ‘Independent People’ collections of short stories, essays and (1934-35) about Bjartur, the farmer of memoirs. His books have been translated Summerhouses, “the story of a man who sowed MenMatthías Jochumsson, who Madepoet and writer Iceland of Iceland’s national anthem into 43 languages and published in more his enemy’s field all his life, day and night. he Westfjords have produced some The play tells the story of the outlaw Skugga than 500 editions. His career was unique, Such is the story of the most independent of Iceland’s outstanding leaders in and his companions and their conflicts with the diversity of his works almost without man in the country”, as it says in the book. In differentT fields, particularly in the 19th the locals, and was inspired by the stories of parallel and, with every book, he can be said the 1940’s, he embarked on historical novels, century, at a time when many of the outlaws living in the Icelandic wilderness. It to have approached his readers from a new including ‘Iceland’s Bell’, his contribution to his works. He began his writing career as world’s greatest names were born. has since been performed many times and and unexpected direction. Iceland’s campaign for independence, which a Catholic, then turned to socialism, but Matthías Jochumsson (11. November, Matthías, who had been planning to become a was published 1943-46. Among other well later lost interest in all dogma—except 1835 – 18. December, 1920) was born on businessman, discovered his love of languages known works by Laxness are ‘World Light’ perhaps Taoism. He never attempted the Skógar farm on the south part of the and literature that was to define his life. (1937-40), ‘The Atom Station’ (1948), ‘The Fish to disown the earlier views which he Westfjords to a poor farming family. He did On graduating, he became a priest but, Can Sing’ (1957) and ‘Paradise Reclaimed’ subsequently repudiated, regarding not begin school until a comparatively late when he lost his second wife, it led to great (1960). Laxness wrote absurdist plays in the them instead as an instructive part of his age when his talents were recognised and mental anguish and a reconsideration of 1960’s and, 40 years after ‘The Great Weaver psychological development. Yet, from the he attended the Latin School in Reykjavík. his religious beliefs. He took a break from from Kashmir’ and, at nearly 70 years old, earliest period to the latest, it is possible During the Christmas holiday in 1861, the priesthood for some years, becoming he began to flirt anew with the modernist in to detect the same basic themes in his he wrote a play called, ‘The Outlaws’ the editor of the most popular weekly novel, along with a new generation of Icelandic books. He looked at things differently which his fellow students performed Icelandic journal, Þjóðólfur. novelists, in ‘Under the Glacier’ (1968). from other people, his writings were the following year. It became an instant Although he returned to the Lutheran He moved to the northern town of Akureyri, often barbed, and yet he always managed success, thereby distinguishing Matthías priesthood, his was a liberal thinking in where he built a house in 1903, where he lived Ideals and Beliefs to see the comic aspects of his characters as a major poet, which marked the contrast to the harsh religious dogmatism until his death. The house is now open as a Laxness’ ideals and beliefs changed with and their actions. His sympathy was beginning of modern Icelandic drama. of the day. He travelled extensively, being museum and study centre. –asf time, as reflected to a certain extent in invariably with the underdog. –ss 32 33 On graduating, he was given a grant to do scientific research in Iceland, which gave him the opportunity to follow his interest in botany. He had only really just begun to formulate his ideas when he fell down the stairs at his home in Denmark. Blood poisoning set in and led to his untimely death.

A Literary Legacy Thus, it is for his poetry that he is best known, rather than his scientific work. He first published many of his poems in Fjólnir. His poetry expresses his love for his country, its beauty and landscapes that so influenced his early life, in particular. He is considered to be a founding father of the Icelandic Romanticist movement and his style completely changed the direction and form of Icelandic poetry, breathing new life

Image by © Gabriel Rosenberg MenJónas Hallgrímsson Who changed Made the face ofIceland Icelandic poetry and vigour into its expression. inventions in agriculture and industry. any of Iceland’s greatest heroes were and natural sciences, excelling in both. Such was his influence on Icelandic Within 6 months, he received the not fearsome warriors but all were Revolutionary fervour was sweeping Europe, literature that his birthday, 16th zof Danish king’s approval. fightersM for what they passionately believed with independence movements fighting for November, is celebrated as Icelandic MenSkúli Magnússon Who Made Iceland He became known as ‘The Father in. They were not from the cities, as Iceland freedom from the established order. With Language Day. Each year, the Minister of here are a number of people who “Weigh it right” - meaning to cheat the poor of Reykjavík’ and was the only one didn’t possess any. Their education was three friends, he founded a magazine, Fjölnir, Education gives the Jónas Hallgrímsson had a great influence on the nation customers. This made him very angry and he bringing news and information to the not in a monolithic ediface, churning out for which he wrote for the rest of his life. Its Award to an author in recognition of their throughT their lives and work. swore to use his life to replace the dishonest country. Reykjavík was little more than spiritless robots but in the home and the goal was to inspire patriotism in Iceland. contribution to Icelandic literature. –asf In the 1700’s, Iceland was under Danish rule. merchants and set up a trading system to a smattering of houses, farms and fields fields and on the sea, where character was They held a trading monopoly and the merchants improve the living standards of the people. at this time. built in the face of adversity. were often corrupt, whilst the communities were In 1732-34, he studied at Copenhagen Skúli built simple factories, focussing Jónas Hallgrímsson was born the third of small and wielded little economic power. university, though he didn’t gain his degree. on agricultural machinery, sulfur four children in 1807 in the beautiful valley Skúli Magnússon (1711-1794) was Instead, he took a position in South Iceland processing, a wool weaving centre, of Öxnadalur, a narrow dale enclosed on both born in the remote village of Keldunes in as the county magistrate before moving 3 dyeing, rope-making, leather work, sides by high mountains with jagged peaks. North-East Iceland. His family moved to years later to Skagafjörður in the north. shipbuilding and fishing. He wanted From these humble beginnings, Húsavík, where his father was a priest. In the first year in his new position, a Dutch Icelanders to use decked boats so they surrounded by a culture of oral story-telling As a teenager, he worked in a Danish trading ship foundered in the fjörd. Skúli, on could fish in deeper seas, increase their of folklore, poetry and sagas, in the pristine merchant’s company, learning the way business discovering the sailors illegally trading with catches with less risk to life than the open beauty of the nature he would later write was conducted. The merchant told him to the local people, seized their ship and its cargo rowing boats used at the time. about, he rose in his short lifetime to become which he used to build the village of Akrar. The only building from that time the nation’s most loved and popular poet. He also procured new type for the printer, still standing is Aðalstræti 10, in enabling the printshop to run the year round. Reykjavík’s centre, which operated as A Stale Diet His vision was to use his wealth and a factory until 1803. From the sagas of the Middle Ages, Icelandic power to destroy the corrupt system and It then became a private residence poetry had fallen into a stale regimen of strengthen the country. In Skagafjörður, where some of Iceland’s most prominent pathos and criticism. Even the poems of he sued one of the monopolistic merchants citizens have stayed, including Jón Jónas’ role model, Eggert Ólafsson, who for selling poor iron and mouldy flour Sigurðsson, the leader of the 19th century broke new ground with his writing, are and for selling over the maximum price Icelandic independence movement. considered stale and dull by comparison. allowed. He won the case and became Around 2000, the conservationists Jónas was schooled for six years at the Latin very popular with the people. renovating it wanted a business reflecting school in Bessastaðir, now the home of the He was known as ‘Skúli fógeti’ as he was the Skúli’s spirit of innovation and design to Icelandic president, with a rigorous training king of Denmark’s representative and when use it. Kraum was the company chosen. in Latin and Greek classics that would stand the country’s Danish Governor was dismissed Skúli set up a farm on Viðey island and him in good stead. He developed an interest in 1749 for drunkeness and bankrupcy, Skúli built Viðeyjarstofa as his official house in science that was ahead of his time but was appointed to his position—the first between 1753-55. He worked tirelessly didn’t live long enough to codify his ideas. Icelander to become Governor. before finally retiring in 1793. He died He moved south to Bessastaðir in the following year. University in Revolution 1750 and established a commercial In 1954 a statue of Skúli Magnusson was In 1832, he sailed to Copenhagen, where enterprise in competition with the Danes erected to commemorate the centenary of he started studying law at the university. which would make enhancements and free trade in Iceland. –asf After 4 years, he switched to literature 34 35 Hall of Fire in rich red with black Th e radical design extends to each of the trimmings. Even ‘up in the gods’ in the upper four halls, whose names correspond to the gallery, the sound quality was amazing. Every elements of air, earth, fi re and water. word was crystal clear. A lot of work has gone Eldborg or ‘Fire Castle’, named after the into the advanced system of controls for the famous volcanic crater in the East of Iceland, sound quality. Th e seating is very comfortable. is the grand concert hall, seating up to 1800 However, the experience is not just in guests, providing a dramatic backdrop to the hall. Th ere are large, open areas on each any production or event. fl oor for socialising, fl owing staircases with ingenious small lounges set at diff erent levels Northern Lights fi ll the air along their length - and then, there is the Representing air, Norðurljós or ‘Northern view. Part of Harpa is built out into the Lights’ is a smaller recital hall, whose harbour. Th is is where its glass façade comes vivid blue decor is equally as dramatic. into its own, with its uninterrupted view The colouring can be configured with over the harbour and bay to the mountain different themes to create the optimum range of Esja beyond. Th e view in almost atmosphere and ambiance. It is an ideal any weather is beautiful - and when the location for conferences, concerts by rainbows arch over the bay, it is stunning. sinfoniettas, chamber groups, jazz bands or similar performances, receptions and A Vibrant Inspiration of Top Artists other such events. The hall, situated A wide range of events take place at Harpa between Eldborg and Silfurberg can be and performers have included British pop connected to them for larger events. sensation Jamie Cullum; German tenor Jonas Kaufmann; world renowned pianist Maria Earth’s Translucent Crystal Joao Pires, violinist and conductor Maxim Silfurberg, representing earth, is Harpa’s Vengerov, conductor Gustavo Dudame and conference hall. Its name comes from a crystal the Gothenburg Symphony Orchestra. With of translucent calcite that is rarely found other the annual Airwaves music festival, Björk than in Iceland. It can accommodate up to and Yoko Ono have received rave reviews for 750 seated guests. The stage is movable and their performances. Upcoming events include expandable. Th e hall can be divided into two ‘You Are In Control’ and Eve Online Fanfest. parts, each accommodating 325 seated guests, Already, since it’s opening in May 2011, over with a soundproofed retractable partition. Th e 350,000 guests have attended events there - hall is very suitable for all types of conferences, more than the total population of Iceland. receptions or concerts, especially if they are amplifi ed. It is specially designed as a conference State of the Art Facilities hall and features the best available technological Th ere is an underground car park, so guests equipment. The acoustics are adapted to the are unaff ected by inclement weather and all spoken word and are confi gurable. the services are in the top echelons of such international venues, including a state-of-the- Water - the Changeable Element art Business Centre, with high-speed Internet Kaldalon or ‘Cold Lagoon’ representing connections and translators’ booths with the water, is named after the beautiful blue bay provision of headsets, where applicable. in the Westfj ords. It is the birthplace of one of There are three quality restaurants in Iceland’s most celebrated songwriters, Sigvaldi Harpa and, being in the centre, all of the The Harpa Concert and Conference Centre opens to wide acclaim Kaldalóns. This is the smallest of the halls, city’s other restaurants are close by. seating just under 200 guests. Coloured yellow, A Cultural Celbration the scheme can nonetheless be changed to Th e New Icon of the North match the theme of the event. It is well suited As the Opera House in Sydney became he opening of a new concert hall in any Glass like Crystallised Basalt Columns and consists of quasi bricks inspired by for all types of music, as well as for conferences, synonymous with Australia, so Harpa is country is a very prestigious event. It The spectacular glass building would not crystalised basalt columns, such as those meetings, fi lm screenings, and lectures with a destined to become an iconic symbol of neverT ceases to amaze people that a country be out of place in one of the world’s largest found at Skógarfoss waterfall. Natural moveable stage and a fl oor that can be used as Icelandic culture. of 300,000 people - that’s a country, not a cities but for it to be in Iceland’s capital, light is a key element in the design as the a stage, as well. It features collapsible writing Harpan –asF town or a city - can have such a rich cultural with a population of under 120,000, is changing daylight alters the reflectivity tables and power outlets for use with laptops.

life. Art galleries abound, theatres, schools all the more remarkable and testament and colours of the glass. At night, when Ingólfsgarður • 101 Reykjavík for each of the performing arts and now, the to the emphasis this country puts upon the façade is lit, the whole building glows Th e Harpa Experience +354 528 5008 jewel in Reykjavík’s crown: the new concert the cultural aspects of life. The unique dramatically against the background What is Harpa actually like? I attended the [email protected] and conference hall complex, situated right glass façade was designed by Ólafur of the harbour and, across the bay, the centennial anniversary of the University of www.harpa.is on the waterfront by Reykjavík’s harbour. Elíasson and Henning Larsen Architects mountains of Esja. Iceland held in Eldborg. Th e decor is dramatic 36 37 The Call Enter the lives of the seamen and fi shermen at Reykjavík’s Maritime Museum, Víkin

he sea has helped the Icelanders survive imagine just what it must have been like to they were landed, many’s the time that they impossible, due to the weather. It carried down through the centuries but it go out in a small open boat, rowing for your would also go out on the boats to ensure doctors, nurses, supplies and rescue workers ofhasn’tT been a free ride. Whilst the shoals of fi sh life when the skies filled withWild storms and their family’s livelihood and very survival. from Reykjavík in atrocious, violently swim the oceans surrounding this remote the waves rose as high as houses. It was a With the modernisation and mechanisation stormy weather when an avalanche struck Today, the Óðinn is a living museum Th ere’s nothing sterile about this museum. northern country, getting them to the dining battle for survival that everyone took part of the fishing industry, conditions have in the Westfj ords, serving as a base of rescue that visitors can tour. It has the feeling It’s an action museum where visitors get the table can be challenging, to say the least. in together - men, women and children. Th e improved considerably. Using real and operations while there. of being lived in, with everything still in feeling of becoming part of the seafaring Iceland’s fishing grounds have provided a communities pulled together and worked reconstructed collections and dramatic When Iceland had to defend its fishing place from its times of active duty. Th is community. Th is is heightened when meeting rich harvest for generations of fi shermen but together to harvest the sea’s bounty. The video footage, the museum gives a very rights in each of the three Cod Wars, it was the provides a very special opportunity to see some of the former crew of the Óðinn who often, the cost has been very high. young grew into responsibilities at an early clear understanding of Iceland’s maritime Óðinn that fended off British frigates, trawlers what life is like on the high seas for adults regularly get together in the museum’s cafeteria Until recent years, almost all international age in this tough environment. Th ough the history down through the years, covering and tug boats and enforced the fi shing limits and children alike. A DVD story of its with wives (or husbands) and friends. trade was conducted by sea. In today’s women generally took care of the hard work each of its periods with its hands-on realistic designed to protect fi sh stocks that were being history, available in the museum’s shop, Th e museum is located at Grandi - just industrialised world, most people know of processing and cleaning of the fi sh once exhibitions. Where else could you jump into severely depleted by foreign fi shing boats. makes very interesting viewing. at the end of the road that runs along the little of the life of the seaman and the a fi sherman’s bed without upsetting someone? harbour, and a 5-minute walk from the fi sherman and their communities. Th eir It was not only the fi shermen who braved centre of town and it is open daily in winter, fi sh appears in the supermarkets in shrink- the seas but also the Icelandic coastguard, from Tuesday to Friday from 11am to 5pm, wrapped polystyrene packets. So it’s a part of whose role was to rescue ships that weekends from 1pm to 5pm. Summer special experience to enter into the world got in distress. For all those that were lost in opening times are from daily from 10am to and lives of the fishermen and sailors - the wild storms and winter blizzards, there 6pm, from 1st June–1st September. something that brings out a childhood were many more that were rescued. Just in –asF Víkin Sjóminjasafn wonder at being able to see, touch, feel the 46-year service of the Óðinn, the fi rst

and even dress like they did. modern Icelandic coastguard ship, over 200 Grandagarður 8 • 101 Reykjavík Th e Icelandic Maritime Museum is fi lled ships were rescued and more crews were +354 517 9400 with the feeling of life with the sea. You can saved, often in extreme weather conditions. [email protected] see how former generations struggled with Its crew also took part in rescue operations www.sjominjasafn.is

the challenges and the boats they used. You when land transport was practically © Immages Gabriel Rutenberg 38 39 From placid landscape beginnings to a dynamic diversity Returning to Iceland, many artists planted the n a country where culture plays a major was an awakening for the nation. Ásgrímur seeds in others who were to take art in diff erent In 1965, an exhibition was held under the Artrole, art has been held in high regard.in Jónsson wrote informent 1903 about the importance directions. Th ey faced strong opposition from name of SÚM, a movement that was soon to Nonetheless,I it has had a tumultuous history, of a nation having its own artists, “if only to several sections of society. shake up the art scene in the sixties. Some as aficionados and artists alike struggled to teach the public to appreciate the beauty of In 1925, Finnur Jónsson returned to of its members were invited to exhibit in the come to terms with a changing world and nature around us…” Iceland, holding an exhibition in Café Pompidou in Paris at its opening in 1977. dialogues and embracing latest technological until, in 1988, it found its home opposite the changing defi nitions of what is considered art. However, only two years later, mirroring Rósenberg. Th is was the fi rst major exhibit In the 1990’s, video art made its debut developments by digitising its collection with ‘pond’ next to Fríkirkja - the church that Iceland was under Danish rule at the end of the spirit of independence in the country, of avant-garde abstract art. and visitors found a new expression through a view to making it available on the Internet. borders the lake. It is housed in what used to be the 19th century, when revolution ary fervour the struggle to break free from a restrictive Around 1930, artists began investigating new interactive participation in works of art. Exhibitions and lecturers travel the country an frozen fi sh storage. A dramatic glass addition was sweeping Europe and the desire for inde- concept of art was already beginning, a themes and methods of modern art. Nonetheless, the stormy debate over the years so everyone can benefi t from them, no matter highlights its modern outlook. pendence was expressed in bloody upheavals struggle that was to continue to the present 1940-41 were characterised by much debate has barely abated, with every push in a new how remote they are from the capital. Schools It is open daily from 11 am to 5 pm, except in many countries. Iceland’s drive for freedom day, with young new artists continually about the character and substance of art that split direction leading to debate and controversy, pay regular visits and special attention is Mondays and visitors will fi nd it well worth was lead by the wise counsel and argument of seeking new expression, interpretation and the Icelandic art world for decades following. with each generation of artists pushing the devoted to them, as it will be from them that taking some time there. Th ere is a bookstore Jón Sigurðs son in the courts of the Danish forms for their art. Some politicians demanded art be easily envelope to discover new means of expression. the next generation of artists will arise. with many beautiful publications and a range king while art was expressing an Ice landic At the end of the 19th century and in understood and in close connection to nature, Iceland’s short, but rich history is evident “Then and Now” is an exhibition that of interesting articles and upstairs, a café identity to its people through its landscapes. the beginning of the 20th, most aspiring whilst numerous artists wanted to see modern in the number of works the Gallery has - not gives an overview of the country’s art history serves delicious meals and snacks. Founded in 1884, the National Gallery artists went to Copenhagen to further art that emphasised the role of structure, form to mention those hanging in offi cial buildings with samples from each time and genre. It –asF Images by Gabriel Rutenberg of Iceland exhibited works in Parliament their studies. The vibrant art scene there and colour fi nd a place in Icelandic art, which and embassies worldwide. With over 10,000 demonstrates how much effort is put into Listasafn Íslands

House. Artists travelled the country, was in the throes of a rebellion by young resulted in a lot of experimentation. works to choose from, a number that is every aspect of each exhibition. Fríkirkjuvegi 7 • 101 Reykjavík painting its beauty for the public to see. For artists against traditional art styles. Th e late 1950’s saw two major artists bring growing with contributions from upcoming The National Gallery has moved several +354 515 9600 many, it was the fi rst time to see the nation’s International exhibitions were held dramatic new themes to the art world here: artists, the Gallery maintains a high level times. From the Parliament, it moved to the [email protected] natural treasures. Travel was diffi cult and frequently, offering an opportunity for Erro introducing Pop art and Dieter Roth, of interest from the public by having top fl oor of a new building designed for it and www.listasafn.is few undertook the arduous treks, so this new inspiration and direction. the Fluxus movement. regularly changing exhibitions, educational for the National Museum next to the university 40 41 ReykjavíkWhere It all started Art Museum lthough Iceland is a young nation in Th e Kjarvalsstaðir museum is dedicated terms of art history, you’d be surprised to permanent exhibitions of Kjarval’s toA discover the quality and unique character of works, a sizable portion of which he Iceland’s fi nest artists. Reykjavík Art Museum donated to the city of Reykjavík before his offers the chance to experience the best of death, as well as exhibitions of paintings, classic and contemporary art in Iceland in one sculptures and design by established enlightening day. Th e museum is situated in Icelandic and international artists. three different buildings in the city centre: Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundarsafn, each with its own theme and character.

Th e M u s t - e S Those wondering who the stately gentleman staring at you from the 2,000 krónur bill is, would be well advised to visit Kjarvalsstaðir, housing the work of Iceland’s most beloved Erró, The Grand Children of Mao, 2007 Árni Bartels Hrefna Víglundsdóttir painter, Jóhannes S. Kjarval (1885-1972). Kjarval, Mountain Milk, 1941 While it is hard not to be inspired by Iceland’s the Mediterranean, the domed buildings colourful landscape, few have managed to Get With the Times of the Middle East, and the pyramids of capture its essence and tie it so securely into the While Kjarvalsstaðir covers the more Egypt. Ásmundur’s sculptures can be found Icelandic psyche as Kjarval did. conventional forms of artistic expression, surrounding the house and on the inside, Among the dozens of celebrated Hafnarhúsið has the liberty to experiment making a magical land inspired by Icelandic paintings you’ll fi nd now on display the and take on ambitious projects with landscapes, literature and its people. exquisite Fjallamjólk, which Icelandic art contemporary artists from all over the world. scholars claim has contributed more to the While Hafnarhúsið has six different All in One Day Icelandic identity than any other painting, galleries devoted to the most exciting current Th e famous landscapes of Iceland are well making it an absolute must-see and worth happenings, one of them is dedicated to a known and easily accessible, but only the trip to Kjarvalsstaðir by itself. permanent exhibition of the works of Erró, through the eye of the artistic mind can one the acclaimed pop-artist who has donated fully comprehend their signifi cance to the over 2,000 works to the museum. nation‘s identity, making it an unmissable Being located close to the city centre in an part of your discovery of Iceland. Reykjavík intriguing building and due to its ambitious Art Museum off ers its guests a chance to undertakings, Hafnarhúsið has become a do it all in one day with their museum day Helena Morland Helena Morland center of-sorts for the creative arts in Reykjavík. passes. What really makes it an outing worth your time is that it also gives you Th e Hidden Pearl the chance to experience the culture of Probably the least known of the three Reykjavík while you stroll between the buildings is Ásmundarsafn, which is quite museums and relax in their coffee shops remarkable considering that it is dedicated where patrons of the arts spend their time. to the wonders of one of Iceland’s foremost You can even get souvenirs and informative sculptors, Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982). books to commemorate your day. The museum is housed in a unique Look out for Reykjavík Art Museum’s building, designed mostly by the artist autumn programme for upcoming exhibitions. himself, who sought inspiration from www.artmuseum.is –VaG Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík

Contemporaryeykjavík Art Gallery is Iceland’s ArtReykjavík inArt Gallery Iceland is open every largest art gallery. Th e gallery exhibits day from 12 to 18. andR sells artwork by about 20 active artists Reykjavík Art Gallery at any given time. The many different

artists all offer their unique version of Skúlagata 30 • 101 Reykjavík contemporary Icelandic art. +354 893 6653 Th e gallery welcomes the Swedish artist [email protected] Helena Morland, who works with Icelandic www.Reykjavíkart.is –## landscapes, to its ranks. Kjarvalsstaðir, Flókagata, 105 Reykjavík Ásmunarsafn, by Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík 42 43 Treasures The National Museum Holds the Nation’s Wealth t is always a special experience to visit a people and country, from the early days of crossed the unpredictable ocean with the Craftsmen Before the Age of Plastics from a young age all the way up to university new country and to see its sights and enjoy the Settlement right through to modern most rudimentary of instrumentation from Between the two cultures, the Celts, with students, with each presentation being both allI that makes it diff erent from one’s own. Its times. It offers a fascinating perspective their Viking homeland to the high-tech their writing and the Vikings with their geared to their age and maturity level and culture, its people, the beauty of its landscape on many aspects of life and society airport of today, handling many thousands craftsmanship, a rich tapestry of life has the national curriculum. and its man-made creations. throughout Iceland’s short history. of travellers. Using about 2,000 objects and been handed down to us today. Children visiting with their parents can However, its true wealth lies in what has Being the last European country to andbe 1,000 photographs, this is the next best RichesTemporary exhibitions add an additional enjoy the quizzes and hand-outs the teachers made it what it is today as each generation has populated, Iceland doesn’t have the relics thing to personal time travel. perspective on Iceland’s heritage, with have made—as well as having fun dressing added their own contribution to the country’s of the Romans, the architecture of the When visiting the museum, you can opt thousands of photographs showing life over up and re-enacting lives of the past. heritage. What you see in today’s society is Greeks or the dynasties of China. What it to take one of four themed routes through the last century. For example, there is an This is the way to learn history— The museum offers refreshments and a the result of all its previous generations and possesses is a unique mingling of two very the exhibition: Work and the Way of Life; exhibit containing a range of ornamentally- hands on and seeing it first hand. The shop so you can continue your time travelling. is what makes it truly unique. diverse cultures, living under incredibly Homes and Settlement Patterns; Arts and carved drinking horns. Your imagination multimedia presentations build on the Iceland values it’s historical narrative highly Th e National Museum of Iceland is located diffi cult conditions and the powerful story Crafts; Social Culture and Language. can take you back to see the care and skill of displays to provide adults and children and the National Museum is but the fi rst step next to the University of Iceland and holds a of their struggles and overcoming great To enrich your experience, there are the craftsman at work, transforming these alike with a fascinating, engaging in a journey that will take you around the sample of the lives previous generations have adversity to become the independent nation multimedia presentations that allow you to gain bovine horns into objects of art—practical experience that educates without you country. It provides a foundation that puts left. Here is where you will gain so much Iceland is today, with its rich culture. Many greater insight and active involvement in a more drinking goblets that have disappeared from even knowing it! everything else in context. – greater insight of what makes Iceland today people fi nd its cultural diversity absolutely immersive experience. Likewise, there are two modern mass-produced plastic society. Images by © Gabriel Rutenberg Þjóðminjasafn Íslands asF and the value attached to each individual’s life. incredible for a population so small. rooms that are especially popular with families Stay for a Day in Time on the second floor which are dedicated to You can choose how long and how much you History is for Children Suðurgata 41 • 101 Reykjavík A Young Nation with a Mature History Travel Th rough Time hands-on experiences. Dress like a Viking; have a Museums can make a very special want to get into the details of the exhibition +354 530 2200 ‘The Making of a Nation’ is the museum’s The exhibition is conceived as a journey mock sword fi ght; try out some of the puzzles and contribution to a child’s development. but even a cursory look will take some time. [email protected] permanent exhibition, displaying the through time, beginning with an example games—and come away with a new perspective Recognising that, museum educators For those wanting an in-depth view, you will www.thjodminjasafn.is heritage and history of the Icelandic of one of the ships in which early settlers on the country through the best medium: fun! make presentations for schoolchildren undoubtedly want to stay longer. 44 45