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The Western Fjords PDF Norway The Western Fjords (PDF Chapter) Edition 6th Edition, May 2015 Pages 46 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Page Range 207–252 • Flåm • Florø Useful Links • Aurland • Måløy • Lærdalsøyri • Åndalsnes Want more guides? (Lærdal) Head to our shop • Geiranger • Balestrand • Ålesund Trouble with your PDF? • Sogndal Trouble shoot here • Molde • Fjærland • Averøy Need more help? • Jostedalen & • Kristiansund Head to our FAQs Nigardsbreen Stay in touch • Stryn Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd The Western Fjords Includes ¨ Why Go? Flåm ...............210 Scoured and gouged by glaciers, ancient and modern, Gudvangen & western Norway’s deep, sea-drowned valleys are pincered Nærøyfjord .........213 by steep, rugged terrain. It’s a landscape that is so utterly Lærdalsøyri (Lærdal) 214 unique and so profoundly beautiful that it is one of the most Jostedalen & desirable destinations in the world. Nigardsbreen .......222 Although overshadowed by the sublime fjords, the coast- The Northern line is nonetheless extraordinary, blasted by an often fero- Fjords ..............231 cious ocean and backed closely by deep green mountain peaks. Ålesund ............240 Ferries are a way of life in the west. These reliable work- Molde ..............246 horses make navigating the insane geography possible but Kristiansund ........249 are also an enjoyable part of your journey, offering stagger- ing, otherwise inaccessible, panoramas. This is great hiking country, whether wild walking, fol- lowing one of the many signed trails or lumbering along in a guided glacier-walking group. And if, after so much fresh Best Places to air, you crave some small-town sophistication, the bijou art Eat nouveau settlement of Ålesund has that in spades. ¨ Maki (p244) ¨ Anno (p244) When to Go ¨ Restaurant Arven (p211) Ålesund °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ Sødahl-Huset (p234) 40/104 12/300 20/68 8/200 Best Places to Stay 0/32 4/100 ¨ Juvet Landscape Hotel (p235) -20/-4 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Hotel Aak (p234) ¨ Villa Norangdal (p239) Early Jul Norsk Mid-Jul Molde Late Aug Savour ¨ Hotel Brosundet (p243) Fjellfestival in parties all week Ålesund’s seafood stunning Ån- long during haul during the ¨ Flåm Camping & Hostel dalsnes, a folk Moldejazz. town’s Norwegian (p211) and outdoor Food Festival. ¨ Eplet (p219) celebration. 208 ERN FJORDS FJORDS FJORDS FJORDS ERN ERN ERN T T T WES WES WES THE THE THE ts H G I L H G I H S ORD J F N ER st WE S THE Dyrnesvågen #\ The Smøla Western Fjords Grip Highlights 1 Cruise between Geiranger and A T L A N T I C Hellesylt in the O C E A N \# Kristiansund embrace of the Bremsnes #\ towering cliffs of Atlanterhavsveien /·E39 Geirangerfjord \# Vevang \# #6 #\ (p236). Averøya Kvernes 2 Ride the dramatic Flåmsbana railway Bud \# (p210) between wild Hardangervidda and Aukra \#Sylte Ona /·E39 Flåm. f#Småoge 3 Take the other- Molde #\ worldy Trollstigen rden Roms gfjo (p232) between an road da L Åndalsnes and lfjor den MØRE OG Valldal. ROMSDAL #\ 4 Get your boots Blindheim #\ /·E39 Isfjorden damp on a tiny icy Valderøy Åndalsnes \# Giske /·E136 tongue of the vast Trollvegen #\ Godøy #\ Romsdalshorn Jostedalsbreen #5 Spjelkavik R(1550m) Ålesund icecap (p222). \#Runde /·RV63 #\ R /· 5 Immerse yourself Sykkyluen Trollstigen om E136 #\Stordal 443 # s in the Jugendstil era Route da in architecturally /· l E39 \# Raumabanen unique Ålesund Linge #\ Valldal Gurskøy Stranda #\ 44 Railway Bjorli (p240). \# \# Eidsdal \#Ta fjord /·60 D /· #\ #\Zakariasdammen 665 Øye 4 Dombås (55km) Geirangerfjord Ørnevegen Langstøylvatnet \# #1 444\#Geiranger 444 Kråkenes#õ #\Selje #\ R Lighthouse #\Kråkenes Hellesylt 44444 Dalsnibba /·E39 0¸RV618 (1496m) 6 #\ Witness the Måløy #\ Grotli ferocious power of Nordfj 444 4 /·15 the sea along the ord #\Nordfjordeid Gamle #\Stryn Atlantic Ocean Road, #\Bremanger Strynefellsvegen \#Loen Atlanterhavsveien Smørhamn D #\ n Olden\# Frøya sjøe 4 44444444444 4 Otta (70km) (p281). \# ø Kalvåg Fr 7 Drive or ride the Styggevatnet spectacular Snow 444 4444444#\ Byrkje4lo #4 44444444 Jostedalsbreen Road, SnøVegen Batalden /· (p214), between SOGN OG E39 #\ 66/·RV55 Florø \# Norddal FJ ORDANE #÷ Aurland and Lærdal. Stardal Gjerde t Kinn e 4444444Rive4Jostedalsbre4en 4#\ 444444 l 444444 r l #\ National Park e Skei j Askrova f n e Svanøy \#Naustdal o g Tansøy 0¸RV611 S r e 4444444444444444Skjolden \#444#\ #\ Tu4rtagrø 4444444 iv #\ Førde R Fortun a # tr Luster\ øls 66 J \# d Fjærland Gaupne#\ or 444444444444444 fj 444444444 a r t #\ Sande /·5 s u L Øvre Ardal Fjærlandsfjorden \# /·RV13 Solvorn\# \#Urnes /·E39 4 44 4 Høyanger #\ #\ Dragsvik Sogndal\# Balestrand #\ 66 Kaupanger #\ Vangsnes #\ A \#Mannheller den u efjor r \# gn la Fodnes So n /·E16 d s \# \# f Lærdalsøyri Vik j o SnøVegen r Borgund 4 d #7 ) e m \# n k .5 /·RV13 4 2 l jord ( L æ r d a yf l #\ rø e Otternes Gudvangen \# n 4#\ Næ 4n u Undredal T #\Aurland #\ #\Flåm Østerbø /· #\ Vinje #\ E16 Flåmsbana #2 D Railway D THE WES WES WES THE THE THE ERN FJORDS FJORDS FJORDS FJORDS ERN ERN ERN T T T THE WE S THE ts H G I L H G I H S ORD J F N ER e# 05st 0km DHardangervidda Geiterygghytta 209 025miles Myrdal Bergen (99km) \# 4(30km) (6km) 44444 210 SOGNEFJORDEN The seasonal tourist office (%57 63 33 13; www.visitflam.com; h8.30am-8pm Jun-Aug, Sognefjorden, the world’s second-longest 8.30am-4pm May & Sep) is in the train station. (203km) and Norway’s deepest (1308m) fjord, cuts a deep slash across the map of 1 Sights western Norway. In places, sheer walls rise more than 1000m above the water, while Flåmsbana Railway SCENIC RAILWAY elsewhere a gentler shoreline supports (www.flaamsbana.no; adult/child one way farms, orchards and villages. The broad, Nkr300/150, return Nkr400/300) A 20km-long en- main waterway is impressive, but cruise into gineering wonder hauls itself up 864m of alti- its narrower arms, such as the deep and love- tude gain through 20 tunnels. At a gradient of ly Nærøyfjord to Gudvangen, for idyllic views 1:18, it’s the world’s steepest railway that runs of abrupt cliff faces and cascading waterfalls. without cable or rack wheels. It takes a full 45 minutes to climb to Myrdal on the bleak, tree- 8 Getting There & Away less Hardangervidda plateau, past thundering waterfalls (there’s a photo stop at awesome Norled (www.norled.no) operates a daily Kjosfossen). The railway runs year-round, with express boat between Bergen and both Flåm up to 10 departures daily in summer. (Nkr750, 5½ hours) and Sogndal (Nkr645, 4¾ hours), stopping along the way at 10 small towns Flåmsbana Museum MUSEUM including Vik (Nkr510, 3½ hours) and Balestrand (h9am-7pm May-Sep, shorter hours rest of year) (Nkr545, 3¾ hours). Several local ferries also F This little museum is right by the link Sognefjord towns, and there’s an extensive, Flåmsbana Railway platform. It’s not, how- if infrequent, bus network. ever, just about railways: there are fascinat- ing photos of construction gangs and life in and around Flåm before cars and buses Flåm made it this far up the fjords. POP 450 Flåm, at the head of Aurlandsfjorden, sits in THE WES 2 Activities a truly spectacular setting. As a stop on the To simply pedal along the shoreline or for popular Norway in a Nutshell tour, this tiny something more strenuous, rent a bike from village receives over 500,000 visitors every the tourist office (Nkr50/250 per hour/ T year. It’s a charming place, but this piece of ERN FJORDS day). The tourist office also has six easy-to- heaven can turn hellish if too many of those interpret free sheets describing local walks, visitors end up here at the same time. varying from 45 minutes to five hours, with routes superimposed upon aerial photos. WESTERN FJORDS Riding the Rallarvegen CYCLING SOGEF WEBSITES (www.rallarvegen.com) Cyclists can descend the låm Rallarvegen, the service road originally used tt gn These websites will help in your by the navvies who constructed the Flåms- I E ng planning. fj bana railway, for 83km from Haugastøl THERE& A ORDE www.fjordnorway.com Detailed cover- (1000m) or an easier 56km from Finse. age of the fjords region. You can rent bicycles from the Haugastøl (%32 08 75 64; Haugastølvegen, Turistsenter N www.nordfjord.no Equally comprehen- Haugastøl; 2-day bike hire incl return transport from sive about Nordfjord. Flåm weekday/weekend Nkr480/580) and the WA www.visitmr.com Møre og Romsdal company also offers packages that include region’s official website with a host of Y accommodation. useful links. Njord KAYAKING www.fjordkysten.no Covers the re- (%91 31 66 28; www.njord.as) gion’s northern coastline. Njord operates from Flåm’s handkerchief of a beach. It www.sognefjord.no Great for the whole offers a two-hour sea-kayaking induction of Sognefjord and its environs. (Nkr350), three-hour gentle fjord paddle www.stavechurch.com A great intro- (Nkr550) and four-hour paddle and hike duction to stave churches, plus in-depth trips (Nkr710), plus multiday kayaking, hik- coverage of the major ones. ing and camping trips. 211 Fjord Safari ADVENTURE Fretheim Hotel HOTEL €€€ (www.fjordsafari.com; adult/child 1½hr trips (%57 63 63 00; www.fretheim-hotel.no; s/d Nkr480/290, 3hr Nkr690/420) Bounce along in Nkr1195/2190; piW) A haunt of fly-fishing a Zodiac/RIB inflatable to see more of the English aristocracy in the 19th century, the fjord in less time.
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