The Western Fjords

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The Western Fjords (PDF Chapter) Edition 6th Edition, May 2015 Pages 46 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Page Range 207–252 • Flåm • Florø Useful Links • Aurland • Måløy • Lærdalsøyri • Åndalsnes Want more guides? (Lærdal) Head to our shop • Geiranger • Balestrand • Ålesund Trouble with your PDF? • Sogndal Trouble shoot here • Molde • Fjærland • Averøy Need more help? • Jostedalen & • Kristiansund Head to our FAQs Nigardsbreen Stay in touch • Stryn Contact us here

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The Western Fjords

Includes  Why Go? Flåm...... 210 Scoured and gouged by glaciers, ancient and modern, Gudvangen & western Norway’s deep, sea-drowned valleys are pincered Nærøyfjord. . . . . 213 by steep, rugged terrain. It’s a landscape that is so utterly Lærdalsøyri (Lærdal). 214 unique and so profoundly beautiful that it is one of the most Jostedalen & desirable destinations in the world. Nigardsbreen . . . . 222 Although overshadowed by the sublime fjords, the coast- The Northern line is nonetheless extraordinary, blasted by an often fero- Fjords...... 231 cious ocean and backed closely by deep green mountain peaks. Ålesund...... 240 Ferries are a way of life in the west. These reliable work- Molde...... 246 horses make navigating the insane geography possible but Kristiansund. . . . .249 are also an enjoyable part of your journey, offering staggering, otherwise inaccessible, panoramas. This is great hiking country, whether wild walking, following one of the many signed trails or lumbering along in a guided glacier-walking group. And if, after so much fresh Best Places to air, you crave some small-town sophistication, the bijou art Eat nouveau settlement of Ålesund has that in spades. ¨¨Maki (p244) ¨¨Anno (p244) When to Go ¨¨Restaurant Arven (p211) Ålesund °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨Sødahl-Huset (p234) 40/104 12/300

20/68 8/200 Best Places to Stay 0/32 4/100 ¨¨Juvet Landscape Hotel (p235) -20/-4 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Hotel Aak (p234) ¨¨Villa Norangdal (p239) Early Jul Norsk Mid-Jul Molde Late Aug Savour ¨¨Hotel Brosundet (p243) Fjellfestival in parties all week Ålesund’s seafood stunning Ån- long during haul during the ¨¨Flåm Camping & Hostel dalsnes, a folk Moldejazz. town’s Norwegian (p211) and outdoor Food Festival. ¨¨Eplet (p219) celebration.

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------Y UM CLING AKING AILWA Y Y C E MUS KA 57 63 33 63 57 and the % ( Haugastøl C R ENIC SC

augastølvegen, Haugastølvegen,

A 20km-long en A 20km-long Njord operates 8.30am-8pm Jun-Aug, Jun-Aug, 8.30am-8pm adult/child wayone adult/child h is in the train station. train is in the

Cyclists can descend the Cyclists 32 08 75 64; 32 08 75

touristoffice www.njord.as) % (

2-day bike hire incl return transport from from transport return incl hire bike 2-day

This little museum is right by the This little Sights www.visitflam.com; Activities 9am-7pm May-Sep, shorter hours rest of year) of rest hours shorter May-Sep, 9am-7pm 91 31 66 28; The seasonal

h % offers a two-hour sea-kayaking induction sea-kayaking a two-hour offers fjord paddle(Nkr350), three-hour gentle (Nkr550) and four-hour paddle and hike trips (Nkr710), kayaking, hik plus multiday ing and camping trips. routes superimposed upon aerial photos. Riding the Rallarvegen (www.rallarvegen.com) Rallarvegen, the service road originally used who constructed the Flåms by the navvies from Haugastøl for 83km bana railway, (1000m) or an easier 56km from Finse. can rent bicycles from the You Turistsenter Haugastøl; Nkr480/580) Flåm weekday/weekend include that packages also offers company accommodation. Njord ( It of a beach. handkerchief from Flåm’s up to 10 departuresdaily in summer. Museum Flåmsbana ( F how not, It’s platform. Flåmsbana Railway are fascinat there just about railways: ever, ing photos of construction gangs and life in and around Flåm before cars and buses made it this far up the fjords. 2 the shoreline or for simply pedal along To something fromstrenuous, more bike rent a (Nkr50/250 per hour/ the tourist office easy-to- six has also The tourist day). office interpretsheetsfree walks,local describing varying hours, withminutes to five from 45 13; Sep) & May 8.30am-4pm 1 Railway Flåmsbana (www.flaamsbana.no; Nkr400/300) return Nkr300/150, of alti hauls itself up 864m gineering wonder of 20 tunnels. At a gradient tude gain through runs that steepest railway the world’s 1:18, it’s 45 full a takes It wheels. rack or cable without on the bleak, tree minutes to climb to Myrdal past thundering plateau, less Hardangervidda awesome a photo stop at waterfalls (there’s with runs year-round, Kjosfossen). The railway - - - - - A great intro great A Detailed cover Detailed Covers the re the Covers Great for the whole for Great Equally comprehen Equally Møre og Romsdal og Romsdal Møre WESTERN FJORDS WESTERN FJORDS (www.norled.no) operates a daily daily a operates (www.norled.no)

Getting There & Away 8

www.stavechurch.com plus in-depth churches, stave duction to the major ones. of coverage www.fjordkysten.no northern coastline. gion’s www.sognefjord.no environs. and its Sognefjord of www.visitmr.com of host with a website official region’s links. useful www.fjordnorway.com region. the fjords of age www.nordfjord.no about Nordfjord. sive WEBSITES will help in your websites These planning. POP 450 visitors end up here at the same time. the visitors end up here at year. It’s a charming place, but this piece of It’s year. of those can turn hellish if too many heaven popular Norway in a Nutshell tour, this tiny this tour, in a Nutshell popular Norway 500,000 visitors every over receives village Flåm, at the head of Aurlandsfjorden, sits insits Aurlandsfjorden, of head the at Flåm, spectaculartruly a setting. As stopa theon Flåm (Nkr545, 3¾ hours). Several local ferries also link Sognefjord towns, and there’s an extensive, network. bus infrequent, if hours), stopping along the way at 10 small towns including Vik (Nkr510, 3½ hours) and Balestrand express boat between Bergen and both Flåm (Nkr750, 5½ hours) and Sogndal (Nkr645, 4¾ Norled of abrupt cliff faces and cascading waterfalls. faces and of abrupt cliff 8 its narrower arms, such as the deep and love arms, such as the its narrower for idyllic views to Gudvangen, ly Nærøyfjord elsewhere supports shoreline a gentler The and villages. farms, orchards broad, into but cruise main waterway is impressive, western Norway. In places, sheer walls rise In Norway. western while the water, 1000m above more than (203km) and Norway’s deepest(1308m) and Norway’s (203km) cutsfjord, of the map slash across a deep SOGNEFJORDEN second-longest Sognefjorden,world’s the

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The Wes 210 211 The Western Fjords SoSFlåmleepignefjngorden ------UB s/d s/d €€€ €€€ €€€ W P W

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t leaves Flåm ou can also hop

A haunt of fly-fishing A haunt ) www.flamsbrygga.no; www.fretheim-hotel.no;

Fretheim Hotel; Fretheim

piW All but two of the rustic, All but two

At the Fretheim Hotel’s restau Hotel’s At the Fretheim Eating Drinking &

Getting There & Away 8 57 63 20 50; 20 63 57 00; 63 63 57 57 63 63 00; 63 63 57 The hotel will arrange and advise on and advise The will arrange hotel % % % BOAT From Flåm, boats head out to towns around is Flåm from trip scenic most The Sognefjorden. Gudvangen to Nærøyfjord up ferry passenger the way/return(one Nkr295/400). I at 3.10pm year-round and up to five times daily between May and September. Y aboard in Aurland. Gudvangen, At a May–mid-Sep, from 6pm rest of year) of 6pm rest from May–mid-Sep, church, Æegir Brew a stave like all the world flagstones,and woodwork appealing all ery, all beer, kinds of draught six different offers crea also does a tasty, brewed on the spot. It on Norwegian comfort take tive food as well to Nkr210). and pizzas (Nkr160 as burgers 8 sourced from the region’s agricultural col sourced from the region’s can also sample locally raised You lege. in the kid, grilled lamb, reindeer and goat barbecue hut. Bryggeri Æegir (www.flamsbrygga.no/bryggeri; at the top). at Flåmsbrygga ( Nkr1390/1790) rooms in this modern dockside placewoody making for some superb a balcony, have but super a busy location, fjord vistas. It’s handy to everything, including the attached Æegir Bryggeri.pub and restaurant, 5 Arven Restaurant ( Nkr545/464) meat their own chefsrant, salt and smoke and local’ menu, an ‘ecological and there’s Hotel Fretheim ( Nkr1195/2190; the aristocracyEnglish in the 19th century, size,its despite 122-room vast, Fretheim, and welcoming. intimate to be In manages 1870sthe original rooms have building, 17 been restored al to their historic selves, modern comfort, with full though the while contempo are straight-up American wings raryluxe. the trips. Exertions over, walking and bike 3rd-floor range a great does bar in the tower place to enjoy theof beers and is a pleasant viewverythe for (but climb best panorama, staircase eyrie to the glass-floored the spiral

- - - ) €

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adult/child 1½hr trips adult/child

www.flaam-camping.no;

www.heimly.no; If you’d like to paddle your like If you’d www.flammarina.no;

Sleeping Flåm Camping Flåm Camping 57 63 35 55; 63 57 57 63 23 00; 23 63 57 57 63 35 55) 63 57 Overlooking the water on the fringethe on water the Overlooking 57 63 21 21; 21 63 57 It has been consistently judged by Hostel has been consistently judged It ) % % % % 4 o & Hostel tiller, Flåm Marina og Apartement, a five- Flåm Marina tiller, hires out rowing minute walk from the jetty, and canoes and motorboats. boats ( the sit back at own canoe, row or simply hubbub, this 1930s home has basic rooms. magnificentThe more expensive ones have views right down the fjord. Heimly Pensjonat ( W from all the port and away of the village apartments, sleep can comfortable two, for (Nkr300 extra per bed); living up to five fjord views bedrooms are but spaces have away. tucked edge, offers a magnificent outlook down outlook magnificent a offers edge, of the fjord from the terrace the length of its small bar-cafe (dishes Nkr110 to self-catering 10 Its to all. Nkr185), open way and the world. and way Apartement Flåm Marina og ( Thisthe water’s right at modern block, too. In a gorgeous spot a few minutes’ walk a gorgeous too. In from the station. as one of the best in Nor ling International every aspect Rooms, from operation. of this dorms to ensuite doubles, are spread across of simplicity a stylish lush site, each with the their own. Campsites are idyllically located caravan sites Nkr215/220, dm/s/tw/q dm/s/tw/q Nkr215/220, sites caravan bath with shared Nkr300/500/865/1255, Nkr230/390/650/950; room built on the site of their old and Family-run into gone a lot of love family farm, there’s ( Flåm Marina Flåm Marina Hire Boat Apartement og exhilarating scoot across the waters. Trips, Trips, the waters. scoot across exhilarating with stops, last 1½ hours (adult/child from to three hours (adult/child Nkr510/310) Nkr610/380). Nkr480/290, 3hr Nkr690/420) 3hr Nkr480/290, a Zodiac/RIBof the see more to inflatable The less time. fjord in full- team supplies – you’ll kit waterproof length need it for this Safari Fjord (www.fjordsafari.com;

- - - €

€€ €€ d/f HIKE UND L TEL L TEL

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HO HO May-Sep; campsites campsites

PGRO CAM make up this make FREQUENCY (DAILY) FREQUENCY 2-6 2-6 4-8 4-8 2-6 At this 30-room, www.aurland-fjordhotel.com; www.vangsgaarden.no;

3-11pm Jun-Aug) 3-11pm Four 18th-century Four buildings www.lunde-camping.no; )

h c

DURATION 20min 20min 15min 1¾hr 45min 3hr Sleeping Eating &

Duehuset (Dovecot) Cafe & Pub 99 70 47 01; 47 99 70 This small campsite nestles agreeably 57 63 35 05; 63 57 57 63 35 80; 63 57 The section, final usually open between ) % % % ( with Nkr600, bathroom with outdoor cabins Nkr240, Nkr820; 3-bed apt Nkr1050, bathroom W Kitchen 1.2km up a side valley. beside a river, and toilet facilities are impeccable. Vangsgaarden from source to sea as you tramp one of the tramp from source to sea as you eastern and routes between oldest trading can you mid-July, From Norway. western starttheon Finse, in walk four-day this stops at line, with overnight rail Oslo–Bergen Geiterygghytta, and Østerbø. Steinbergdalen from Øster September, and late early June (95m) is the most bø (820m) to Vassbygdi dayenjoyable hugely a for makes and scenic (allow six to seven hours). Buses runhike Aurland and both Vass daily between twice (15 minutes) and Østerbø (one hour). bygdi 4 & Camping Lunde Gard only means of land communication betweenonly means of land communication three hours. Allow around villages. the two Hike Aurland to Geiteryggen The Aurlandsdalen from classic trek down Geiteryggenstream to Aurland follows a parlour – and the gardens are pretty. Fjordhotell Aurland ( Nkr920/1240) from s/d fjordfamily-owned hotel, most rooms have ( per Nkr1250 (linen per 4-bed cabins Nkr1100/1350, Nkr65); son sea level andalong with six cabins down at the Nkr129; from friendly prime waterfront place. Some rooms others are style, in antique are furnished – the dining room,atmospheric It’s simpler. for example, grandmother’s be your could - - HIKE - PRICE (NKR) PRICE 52 36 184 95 330 slo and Bergen Aurland is much less hectic than

, where the route is superimposed Activities

It also marks the end of the spectacular also marks the end of the It DESTINATION Sogndal Sogndal Lærdalsøyri Bergen Gudvangen Aurland BUSES FROM FLÅM TRAIN POP 777 POP Flåm, passing by Otternes. Until 1919 and Until Flåm, passing by Otternes. constructionthe the coast of was theit road, solitude, hike the 12km trail that mainly that the 12km trail solitude, hike Aurland andfollows the old road between Hike Aurland Flåm to consistently outstanding views and near For walks upon an aerial photo. The Aurland and Lærdal tourist offices have The have Aurland and Lærdal tourist offices sheetsproduced six walker-friendly of local Aurlandsdalen hiking route. 2 lake-strewn high mountain plateau in the lake-strewnmountain plateau high middle. Your choice: speed and convenience, or a choice: speed and convenience, Your hair-raising, view-feast on the ascent and descent, and an eerily serene, waterfall and vangen. It’s a fast alternative to the sinu to a fast alternative It’s vangen. ous and seasonal 45km-long SnøVegen. Bergen; before its completion traffic had before its completionBergen; traffic to ferry-hop Lærdal between and Gud world’s longest road tunnel. This longest essential world’s connects and Oslo highway E16 the in link along the fjord. These days it’s renowned it’s Thesethe fjord. along days as one end of Lærdalstunnel the (24.5km), Peaceful Peaceful Flåm, a mere 10km south its neighbour, Aurland link, via the magnificent Flåmsbana railway. There are train connections to O Myrdal. at Flåm is the only Sognefjorden village with a rail at least one daily express boat (Nkr695, 5½ hours) via Balestrand (Nkr265, hours). 1½ sells all ferry tickets, plus the Flåm to Voss fer there’s Flåm-Bergen, From combination. ry-bus bus takes you on to Voss, where you can pick up the train for Bergen or Oslo. The tourist office

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CHUR - rømmegrøt, tumbles from , a restored restored a , www.otternes.

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length a Unesco World World a Unesco length 57 63 11 32; 63 57 % (

fjord, only 250m across at itsfjord, only 250m across at Originally built as a stave church in Originally built as a stave admission/tour Nkr50/80, children free; children Nkr50/80, admission/tour Sights

If you are staying nearby, book for book nearby, staying are If you 10am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep) 10am-6pm Kjelsfossen waterfall Kjelsfossen pancakes. where dinners, the traditional one of like dishes sample can you with served porridge a rich sour-cream and meat cured locally of thin shavings lamb from organic featuring sometimes hillsides. very these OTTERNES Otternes no; h the fjord, high above perches hamlet, The 27 Aurland. Flåm and between dating the oldest buildings, scattered lived were century, 17th the early from the initi largely It’s in until the 1990s. the ebullient Laila one person, of ative to one-hour her half- Follow Kvellestad. daily) times four (in English, guided tour a Plan farm. and working the houses of made organic to lick a locally break rest or eat apple juice sip fresh cream, ice Gudvangen Nærøyfjord & narrowest point, are towering 1200m-high point, are towering narrowest waterfalls farms, and plum isolated cliffs, meting can easily be vis from the heights. It excursionited as a day from Flåm. valley, Nærøydalen of wall southern the 1 Church Undredal Nkr30/free; (adult/child mid-Sep) vil 40, this barrel-vaulted and seating 1147 church is the smallest still-operationallage Scandinavia. mainland in worship of house Look the roof with its charmingly na up at Christ roof paintings of angels, ive on the surroundedcross and other biblical figures, stars.by stylised its 17km Nærøyfjord, of Flåm. Beside the Site, lies west Heritage deep blue to Gudvangen. Best of all, take the bus out, Best of all, take to Gudvangen. spectacularwalk down the valleyalong the road and return by boat lightly trafficked blinking yellow the switch beside the (press alertto jetty the beside wall cafe the on lamp the next passing ferry). - - - €

- E CAF A typical 57 63 33 13; www. % ( 10am-9pm) xpress buses to/from h

9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5.30pm9am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat h Getting There & Away Information 8 8 Undredal is 6.5km north of the E16 downUndredal Undredal’s local claim to fame is its chees Undredal’s Watch out for the speed cameras in Lærdal Undredal POP 112 a narrow, steeply threading road (until its a narrow, construction in 1988, the only access was the at by bus, get off by sea). If travelling leadseastern end of the 11km tunnel that slightly sweet variant, made from the boiled sweet made slightly variant, can pick up You whey. and concentrated the shop; it’s the village a hunk of each at light-blue building beside the shore. yield per nipple). Farmers from the valley per nipple). Farmers yield remaining dairies – two supply the village’s still 10 – which produce theonce there were cheese and its brown, Undredal yellow firm delicatessens within Norway. Around 500 within Norway. delicatessens freely roam the surrounding grassy goats them theyslopes and between provide the milk for around 10 tonnes of cheese per impressive a hugely it out: that’s (work year tranquillity is at risk. is at tranquillity not exactlyas you’ll fame, only findes. Well, them in a few cheese shops and specialised tional quality sustained – because you need sustained – because you quality tional to get of extra bit effort there. that to make as a it has recently been added However, brief and its former tours stop to some boat Undredal, tucked midway between Flåm between midway tucked Undredal, vil little is a truly lovely and Gudvangen, – and its tradi its pleasures enhanced lage, stunnelen – all 24.5km of them. to six times daily between Aurland and Lærdal (Nkr83, 30 minutes). E Bergen (Nkr300, three hours) call in up to six daily. times 8 Buses run up to eight times daily between Aurland and Flåm (Nkr36, 15 minutes) and up 8 OfficeAurland Tourist alr.no; & Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) The tourist office is beside the village church. little terrace overlooking the rippling river overlooking terrace little plus all- into Aurlandsfjord, where it flows beer and wine. day small-town Norwegiansmall-town a neat cafe but with Aurlandskafeen Nkr110-170; (mains views and balcony. It’s old-fashioned, but old-fashioned, It’s views balcony. and both comfortable and friendly.

- - - - S Lærdal Lærdal

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fishing

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57 66 66 95; 57 There’s free There’s For Up toeight buses daily run to/from Flåm % POP 2200 tual casting. Sport Lærdal og Rekreasjon ( Grandavegen; Fritidspark, Ferie-og O 10pm, upper reaches of the Lærdalthe of reaches upper goodare river from the permits are available for trout (day or nearest campsite). tourist office free leaflet also sells of walks in the area. It a much more detailed (Nkr139) at local map a scale of 1:50,000. Senter Villaks Norsk (www.norsk-villakssenter.no; Nkr90/60; wild salmon and sea trout can watch You viewingthrough excellentan see windows, lifecycle, 20-minute the salmon’s about film tryof you to tie flies to increase the odds vir do a little own and hooking one of your rounding area was loaded on Bergen-boundrounding area was loaded through streets swept A fire in theboats. and while in early 2014, southwest town’s devastating those who lost for and homes the town’s injured, has not affected were charm for visitors. 1 The historic centre (Gamle Lærdalsøyri) for pleasant strolling through itsmakes well-preserved18th- 19th-century and heart. There a hundred loving over are well fish and warehouses homes, maintained ly shacks to explore here. The tourist erfolk’s describes that has a free town map office the best of them and sets out a walking route. up to five times daily in summer. A car ferry runs three timesdaily to/from Lærdal (car and via hours) three Nkr665/280, driver/passenger (Nkr630/280). Kaupanger (Nkr52, 20 minutes) and Aurland (Nkr65, 30 minutes). Lærdalsøyri (Lærdal) The of village Lærdal, green dale of the lovely is where the same name – whose fertile reaches lower produce the juiciest of cherries – meets the it was oncefjord. A quiet place nowadays, a busy port, produce from the sur where

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57 63 39 26; 39 63 57 993 80 803; 80 993 pine-clad structure is striking to look at, is striking pine-clad structure just push you to mention designed to not rather zone, comfort your a little out of itself. Norway like whole route, drive the first 8km from 8km the first drive whole route, the magnificent to Aurland observation point the biomorphic below, way the fjord over are still deep-frozen even in late June – in late even still deep-frozen are Tour as a National has been designated coach the before there get so Route, ist the for opt don’t if you Even on. catch es high plateau that separates Aurland Aurland that separates high plateau This heart- (Lærdal). and Lærdalsøyri for summertime – strictly drive stopping tarns and line the road banks as snow The 45km The 45km Oct) precipi twisting level, sea from climbs boulder-strewn the desolate, to tously SNØVEGEN The but is wondrous approach by boat mid-Apr–mid-Sep) % %

(one way/return(one Nkr295/400) via Aurland run 8 Scenic ferries between Gudvangen and Flåm tle between the road and the river. tle between the left 1km out of side of the E16, around these cabins and campsites nes Gudvangen, ( Nkr300-500, bathroom outdoor with cabins Nkr100, Nkr950-1200; with bathroom Vang Camping Vang is a well-equipped campground at the base at campground is a well-equipped of sheer cliffs. h from the ferry 1km justE16, over port, this ( bath with outdoor cabins 2-/4-person Nkr120, sites Nkr820/1290; with bathroom Nkr420/480, room Camping Gudvangen overwhelmed and coach traffic. boat with 4 Gudvangen itself, like a mini Flåm only like itself, Gudvangen more constricted, can disappoint when across the fjord! metre, 50m a second and, local leg at move right can bowl a herd of goats end reckons, vangen. The powerful avalanches here typi The powerfulvangen. avalanches cally provide a force of 12 tonnes per square above Gudvangen village. Notice too the Notice village. Gudvangen above scheme protection avalanche

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8 8 tourist office Flåmsbana railway to Flåm – is truly to railway Flåmsbana and takes within the nutshell the kernel The elements. dramatic in all the most Flåm at 9am leaves boat Gudvangen you brings train and the Flåmsbana home at 4.55pm. NORWAY IN A NUTSHELLNORWAY do the classic visitors Although most either from tour in a Nutshell Norway do a mini can also you or Bergen, Oslo Nkr775/400). (adult/child version to Flåm – boat from route This circular Myrdal, to train Voss, bus to Gudvangen, the spectacular down again then train Three daily car ferries run to/from Gudvangen f you’re drivingf you’re south, you have the choice POP 2731 of Vik is this splendid stave church, about church, of Vik is this splendid stave 1km from the centre. Built in 1130 and Nor second oldest, it escaped demolition way’s Inside, 19th in the late by a whisker century. the original canopy paintings of the elabo preserved carved theirrately baldaquin have (car and driver/passenger Nkr620/265, three three Nkr620/265, driver/passenger and (car hours) via Kaupanger (Nkr605/245). Vik small splendid Vik has two Nkr80/70) adult/child bined entry their existence present form to the and 19th-century de Blix (who architect Peter sta of the signed, among much else, many line). railway tions on the Oslo–Bergen 1 Church Stave Hopperstad Nkr60/50; (adult/child Sep) 8 The no;Ø occupies lovely a old clapboard house, once the bank,town’s set back from the main street. I has a neat little photo exhibition on early Lærdal point. internet free a and 8 I between the world’s longest road tunnel, linking Aurland and Lærdal (mercifully, it’s toll free), or, in summer, climbing up and over the mountain, following the Snøvegen. E from Bergen (Nkr385, 3¾ hours) two to six times tunnel. the via daily

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campsites Nkr250, 2-/3-/4-bed cabins 2-/3-/4-bed Nkr250, campsites s/d Nkr850/950, with shared bathroom bathroom with shared Nkr850/950, s/d Sleeping Eating &

57 66 69 00; 66 69 57 57 66 86 20; 86 66 57 57 66 66 95; 66 57 57 66 64 04; 64 66 57 Their pale floorboards and bright walls % % % % Salmon Centre offers substantial meals. It Salmon Centre offers dispenses tempting snacks and sandwiches then morphs into a res during the daytime, from 6pm to 9pm. taurant Laksen ( Nkr210-275; the Wild at formal Laksen & Restaurant Pub contrast nicely with beautiful antique ironcontrast beds. There are cosy armchairs and big win the garden. Thedows overlooking restau servesrant (Nkr365). a nightly buffet baroque for good measure, has neat rooms has neat measure, baroque for good follow suit. Thethat 19th-century ones are too. stylish ’60s block across the road. The latter, a ’60s block across the road. The latter, and libraries, charming warren of lounges mid-century with splendid original filled design and some Norwegian Scandinavian tral fifth-generation family-run hotel is fifth-generation tral a beautiful Swiss-style divided between gabled building in a garden and the main ( Nkr900/1200; picture window that give a magnificent pan a magnificent picture give that window of the fjord. orama Hotell Lindstrøm Nkr995/1095/1195, motel s/d Nkr500/595; s/d motel Nkr995/1095/1195, edge, This the water’s almost campsite, at ‘motel’ views Its fjord. the sweeping of has facilities, plushas communal self-catering and broada common room with a terrace Lærdal Ferie Ferie Lærdal og Fritidspark ( com; It retains its and cosy scale of It the simplicity but is furnished with care and a cleverera, families or small groups, eye for detail. For a nearby apartment. they also have Nkr550/490, apt Nkr1300) apt Nkr550/490, this charming historicfor almost years, 100 house was restored and returned to its origi in 1994. and Hallvard nal use by owners Jon 4 Pensjonat Sanden ( 9; ta hiking and biking trips ranging from three ranging biking trips and hiking Nkr230,tours from (bike to full days hours from Nkr75). hiking range of bikes for hire here (from Nkr45/125 (from here hire for bikes of range They guidedalso arrange per hour/day).

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Sleeping Activities 57 69 42 00; 69 57 57 69 11 38; 69 57 57 69 13 03; 13 69 57 57 69 42 40; 69 57 95 06 72 61; 95 06 72 91 32 66 28; % % % % % % for guests, is moored. Breakfast, with three andkinds of pickled herring, hams, prawns more, is a meal in itself. Hotel Kvikne’s ( Nkr1110/1720; rooms and decent self-catering facilities. rooms and decent self-catering Hotell Balestrand ( Nkr850/1340; a friendly, family-run hotel, is mertime-only, eschews place that the tour intimate jolly, beds elsewhere in so many fill groups that more for inspi worth well paying town. It’s views the fjord. over rational Hotel Midtnes ( Nkr850-1290; this 32-room family-run place, has a break an viewsfast room with great of the water, extends that and a lawn terrace attractive free where a rowing boat, down to a jetty, Sjøtun Camping Sjøtun ( bathroom with outdoor 4-/6-bed cabins Nkr210, Nkr300/400; campsite, a 15-minute walk south along the can pitch a tent on soft amidfjord, you grass a veryapple trees or rent a sweetat cabin reasonable price. Kringsjå Vandrerhjem ( Nkr690/890/990, with bathroom s/d/f Nkr290, all incl breakfast; family-run HI- from the dock, Balestrand’s outdoor an hostel is nowadays affiliated It activitiesyear. centre during the school started life as a hotel, and this shows; it’s with comfortable place lodge-style a fine 2 pamphlet free Thetourist office’s Activities in Balestrand for gestions manding. also stocks It with1:50,000 at map walking good a (Nkr70), up. marked trails Njord ( of guid in a range Balestrand the fjord off lasting tours, from three hoursed sea-kayak multinight trips.(Nkr600) and including Reserve the tourist office. at 4

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This new museum is housed King Bele King eiselivsmuseum; The region’s oldest stone building, The region’s Sights POP 1337 cludes an hour of canoe or rowing-boat hire. cludes an hour of canoe or rowing-boat then tour the 24 aquariums in which lurkthen tour the 24 from Sognefjord, creatures large,saltwater small and very small. The entry price in (adult/child Nkr70/35; (adult/child View the 15-minute audiovisual presentation Aquarium Sognefjord the lover of King Bele’s daughter, peers acrosspeers daughter, Bele’s King of lover the the fjord from Vangsnes). mythology, he regularly spent his holidays mythology, here prior to WWI (a similar funded by the Kaiser and honouring Fridtjof, of legendary Kaiser Wilhelm II. Obsessed with Nordic ny’s of a boat, two skeletons, jewellery two of a boat, and several by a statue One mound is topped weapons. Less than 1km south along the fjord, excava tion of this pair of barrows revealed remnants owner of Midtnes Hotel has the key. Hotel owner of Midtnes Age Barrows Viking Green, who married a local hotel-owner. It’s It’s Green, who married a local hotel-owner. it closed, the find just up the hill; should you style of a traditional stave church, was built church, was stave of a traditional style of English expat Margaret the instigation at Olav St of Church Thischurch (1897), charming wooden in the flects the surrounding rocky landscape. flects the surrounding rocky (Norsk R (Norsk livsmuseum.no) in a beautiful piece of architecture re that Norwegian Museum Museum Norwegian & Tourismof Travel holiday resortholiday ever since the 19th century, itself. and can sometimes out-twee 1 of fjord, at its rear an impressive mountain its rear an impressive of fjord, at small-scaletranquil, been a has It backdrop. Balestrand sits facing an impressive stretch sits facing an impressive Balestrand roof beams and the external gables. Balestrand stract wall painting of nave and chancel, thestract of nave wall painting in the legend from Norse figures wooden dating to the late 12th century, this church this 12th to the late dating century, Blix’s retains Peter its original form beneath Thisab includes the makeover. elaborate (adult/child Nkr50/40; (adult/child mid-Aug) Church Stone Hove the Hove stone south, is 1km to the church, the Hove Nkr80/70. freshness of colour. A combined ticket combined A for of colour. freshness

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Buy your ticket at the visitors centre, centre, at the visitors ticket Buy your xpress buses link Balestrand and Sogndal where an exhibition (included in the an exhibition where this pecu on admission) your of price as as well phenomenon liarly Norwegian a nearby finds from Viking early recent dis evocatively dig are archaeological cir two-hour a nice also There’s played. and tracks on ancient paths cular hike and ends at the church. that starts BORGUND STAVE CHURCH STAVE BORGUND of Lærdalsøyri southeast 30km Some 12th-century the E16, along the Borgund Stave Church Nkr80/60; 5pm O eastern between routes the major trade to St Dedicated Norway. and western most known, the best one of it’s Andrew, the best and certainly photographed churches. stave Norway’s of preserved and sublimely interior inky simple, Its it Beside deeply moving. are rustic alter wood medieval is the only free-standing in Norway. remaining en bell tower The scenic Gaularfjellsvegen ( From June to August, a daily ferry E POP 7050 (www.dhs.museum.no; Nkr70/30; O Mon-Fri 10am-3pm Aug, Sogndal between is museum folk open-air than beside the Rv5. More and Kaupanger, 30 buildings, including farms, a schoolhouse citing drive to Førde, on Førdefjord, on citing Førde, drive to negotiating hairpin bends and skirting Norway’s greatest waterfalls. roadside concentration of Sogndal prettiest Sogndal, though not the area’s and makes town, has a nice community day magnificent a trio of base for good a Nigardsbreen, and Jostedalen drives: and the spectacular and Lustrafjord Urnes, Sognefjellet circuit. 1 Folkmuseum Sogn (Nkr240/390 one way/return, hours, 1½ twice Fjærlandsfjorden to narrow the follows daily) Fjærland, gateway to the glacial wonderlands of Jostedalsbreen. (Nkr128, one hour, three daily). ------€

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h Within a fruit farm that produces Within a fruit farm that Eating S Getting There & Away Information

8 8 mains Nkr140-250; Near the tourist office, this kooky-as- the tourist office, Near 98 47 77 65; 98 47 915 62 842; 62 915

Do savour one of the desserts of organicDo savour Balholm Bar og Bistroog Bar Balholm serves andsnacks xpress boats run to/from Bergen (Nkr545, % % 8 E 45 (Nkr240, Sogndal and hours, twice daily) 3¾ daily). once minutes, local, is opposite the ferry quay. I bicycles for Nkr70/170/270 per hour/half-day/ full day. Tourist office Tourist estrand.no; 5pm Mon-Fri May This & Sep) tourist office, run by an extremely knowledgable and helpful lop of equally organic, locally made ice cream. Sjøtunsvegen,Signs for Ciderhuset run off which runs inland from Villavegen. 8 fresh herbs and cherrythe climb tomatoes panes. fruit from their orchards, enhanced by a dol traditions. Theytraditions. produce wherev use local er possible; even the dinnerware by is fired ter first-floor the on Dine potter. local a where house, glass cosy the inside or race Aug) fruits, cider bottled organic juices, jams, this happy restaurant and cider brandy, culinary and Mediterranean fuses Nordic 32; ers adorning the tables, is justers adorning the tables, the spot. Ciderhuset ( tric art gallery. The is sim food, by contrast, tric art gallery. locally caught sea trout, stuff: ple, traditional If or meatballs. sausage reindeer elk patties, with freshly cut the terrace, flow sunny, it’s Pilgrim ( 185) into Det place is integrated little anything an equally eccen (Golden House), Gylne Hus outside and in. Theoutside and a point just hotel is on ferrysouth of the landing. 5 dated for the price. dated drinks your can take and you light meals at to look plenty there’s the salon where into Norwegiana aestheticand its lounges in all but 25 are 190 rooms, halls. Of its dining newerin the building, erected 1960s. in the They’re comfortable to a fault, but a little pale-yellow, timber exterior of Kvikne’s Ho exterior timber of Kvikne’s pale-yellow, late-19th- the more-is-more tel belies ------€

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ovevegen 2; Information 8 & Guiding Lodge Sogndal 57 62 76 00; 76 62 57 57 62 99 88; 57 The outdoor pool’s heated and there are heated The outdoor pool’s You can organise kayaking, can organise climbing, You % % & Sep) Sogndal’s& Sep) seasonal tourist office, a five-minute walk east of the bus station and at the back of a convenience store, can book ac commodation. I and local guides, rents bike per (Nkr70 and day) (Nkr150). permits fishing one-week issues and open to all-comers. Kaffé Galleri Krydder (www.gallerikrydder.no; Nkr80-95; sandwiches, 110, & Sun) 11am-5pm Sat this friendly cafe attached at guaranteed to an artgallery – mostthe town pass of some timees through for a double shot at and swings a trampoline There’s of the day. salads,next to eat a big terrace door and sandwiches and super-size brownies. 8 office Tourist no; H 11am Sun mid-Jun–Aug, limited hours May volving all of the above through the lodge. through all of the above volving They also do an interesting culinary tour, food produc traditional exploring the area’s and bikes also rental of kayaks, ers. There’s paddleboards. Hotel Fjord Hofslund ( Nkr1095/1395; has century, its first bed hotel, approaching been run by the same family for four gener enjoys a wonderful most location; It ations. and view of the fjord a balcony rooms have water. down to the sweeps lawn and a neat gear, and fishing a couple of rowing boats guests.free to loaned The has restaurant value good that’s (Nkr295) a nightly buffet ers, is great value. Nine of its 12 rooms have have rooms its 12 of Nine value. is great ers, facil are self-catering and there a bathroom a rooftopities and terrace. o ( 10; ningen Nkr3600) whole house Nkr850/1260/1600, rooms with 12-bed is sparkling new, lodge nice plus in style, are Scando-simple that be may It lend character. to finds vintage with but, middle of the village right in the ex local guiding owners Sigrid and Sander’s pertise, serves as a direct into the gateway surrounding landscape. glacier walks and skiing, trips in or longer

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www.hihostels.no/sogndal;

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10am-3pm or 5pm May-Sep) 10am-3pm This summer well-equipped, adult/child Nkr60/50; adult/child h

The area’s main attraction was raised main attraction The area’s Sleeping Eating &

57 67 87 00; 87 67 57 57 62 75 75; 75 62 57 57 67 45 80; 45 67 57 Kjørnes Camping is 3km from Sogndal, Children can pet build theiranimals, the % % % restaurant, and run by the restaurant’s own by the restaurant’s and run restaurant, ( the China place above House small, central boarding school during the rest of the year. Pensjonat Loftesnes time-only HI-affiliated hostel, near the time-only HI-affiliated carries the Rv5, functions that bridge as a Nkr310/410/620, d with bathroom Nkr755; with bathroom d Nkr310/410/620, Jun–mid-Aug) ( 9-10; gheimsvegen off the Rv5, in the direction of Lærdal.off Vandrerhjem Sogndal forest at your back and the fjord before you. your forest at side terrace and heated floors; there’s a few floors; there’s and heated side terrace almostbe to alone with the you allow that improved facilities, enjoys a gorgeous fjord- a gorgeous facilities, enjoys improved side setting. Choose cabin with fjord- a large door bathroom Nkr410/580, apt Nkr800; apt Nkr410/580, door bathroom This campground, well-maintained large, expanded andowners have the young where ( with out Nkr900/1350, 2-/5-bed cabins Nkr240, Kjørnes Camping Kjørnes Celtic-style chancel arch is unique. Celtic-style 4 musical annotation, while vine and flow while musical annotation, around the chancel. Theer motifs entwine from a fundamental renovation in the 17thfrom a fundamental renovation featurenave the paintings in Wall century. in 1184. It impresses from within by its sheer impresses from within by its in 1184. It see dates you what height, although much of (Kaupanger; Jun-Aug) in timber for then-booming Bergen’s needs. Bergen’s in timber for then-booming Church Stave and equipment, and some strikingand equipment, and some pho old in particulartos, illustrating the coastal trade the Rv5, this museum has a collectionthe Rv5, this museum has of 19th- and 20th-century and freight boats fishing (Kaupanger; also on Folkmuseum, Sogn larger the much picnic spots. Fjordmuseum Sogn own log cabin and indulge in other back in other and indulge own log cabin activities, woods gorgeousare there plus els (reception has English translation sheets). has English translation els (reception wegian and English. There English. and wegian are three short, pan with informative walking trails themed original sites and embedded in the surround in sites and embedded original documented well is Each Nor in woods. ing and a mill, have been brought from their from brought been have a mill, and

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Sognefjellet Na Sognefjellet www.eplet.net;

Among a bountiful apple orchard andorchard apple bountiful Among a Sleeping ) Eplet 41 64 94 69; 94 64 41 % cycle route. 4 o ( iW circled by raspberry and blueberry canes hostel special this bushes, setis terraced in buildings, rustic wooden two in gardens, along with some garden campsites. From viewsits windows there are magnificent of (theyLustrafjord seem even nicer from a garden). Rooms are sweetlyin the hammock furnished with local touches. For a delightful four hours of peaceful of hours four a delightful For Lustrafjord, on smooth-as-silk paddling a colo to cruise among chance and the of the daily with one sign on of seals, ny based at FjordSeal, tours of kayak guided north of 17km the Rv55, just off Marifjøra, Svolvorn. Circuit Mollandsmorki a This circuit25km travels Solvorn from and finally sealed, gravel of combination dirtstunning with roads, views ofmuch for not easygoing, with some the distance. It’s sections of dirt ruggedrequireenough to incredibly but it’s and push, to get you off despite its modest dis rewarding. Some say, tance, even more so than Rallarvegen (p Nkr100, dm Nkr200, s/d Nkr500/600; s/d dm Nkr200, Nkr100,

in ark ark AKING Y and KA sizeable chunk of the magnificent the magnificent chunk of sizeable adult/child adult/child

(Route of the Peaks) keeps climbing, just above the treeline, until the treeline, just above climbing, keeps the Peaks) of (Route , meanders along a lonely, lightly travelled single-lane road that single-lane road lightly travelled a lonely, along meanders , tta hours). (4¼ www.fjordseal.com; tours 9.30am daily May-Sep) daily 9.30am tours

h Tindevegen Solvorn is everything you’d want everythingis Solvorn you’d

To return to Sogndal, turn right to leave the Rv55 and head for Årdal. The narrow road, road, The narrow Årdal. for and head the Rv55 leave turn right to Sogndal, to return To At wind-battered Turtagrø you can continue along the Rv55, which runs through which runs through along the Rv55, continue can you Turtagrø wind-battered At From Sogndal, head out on the Rv55 to the northeast as it hugs, for the most part, for the most as it hugs, the northeast to out on the Rv55 head Sogndal, From Getting There & Away Activities 8 95 77 41 96; 95 77 41 xpress passenger boats connect Sogndal Sogndal connect boats passenger xpress There are two very different, but equally veryThere are two different, the pass (1315m) and a toll booth (Nkr75 per vehicle). Then it’s a plunge down through through down a plunge Then it’s per vehicle). (Nkr75 booth and a toll (1315m) the pass and the undistin Årdalsvatnet of waters the emerald-green to spindly birch of woods between via the ferry you, takes Rv53 the here, From Årdal. Øvre of guished village Sogndal. to back and Mannheller, Fodnes Jotunheimen National Park, up and over northern Europe’s highest road pass (1434m) (1434m) pass road highest Europe’s northern up and over National Park, Jotunheimen Lom. and on to as known ancient highway where for centuries, when it was no more than a rough track, fish and track, than a rough no more when it was centuries, for where ancient highway from and hides butter for iron, exchanged to be the coast be hauled up from would salt deep inland. communities fjord level. The trip can’t be done by public transport and cyclists will need to be very fit, to be will need and cyclists public transport be done by trip can’t The level. fjord days. a few it over and attempt About 5km beyond waters. of the to Skjolden at the head way all the Lustrafjord lovely an following You’re and climb. twist seriously to starts the road settlement, this tiny A spectacular circular, day-long driving route, the Sognefjellet circuit runs beside one of one of runs beside circuit the Sognefjellet driving route, day-long circular, spectacular A a climbs fjords, loveliest Norway’s Route Tourist tional to more once in a knuckle-clenching descent, then plunges the heights, across threads THE SOGNEFJELLET CIRCUIT SOGNEFJELLET THE Twice-daily buses (mid-June to late August) August) late to buses (mid-June Twice-daily Bus destinations include Kaupanger (Nkr32, (Nkr32, Kaupanger include destinations Bus E % Solvorn & Around Nkr550/400; 2 FjordSeal ( appealing,here,options accommodation wonderfula it making yourselfbase to place least a fewfor at days. fetchingly pretty, quiet but with as a mouse fetchingly pretty, all that locals. It’s warm, welcoming best striking distance region’s of some of the hiking, biking and paddling. Diminutive to be: spectacularlya fjord-side village sited, (Nkr94, hours, 1¼ three per day). P National Jotunheimen past northeast head to Lom (3¼ hours) and O Bergen (Nkr645, 4½ hours, twice daily). 20 minutes, up to 12 per Fjærland day), (Nkr73, 30 minutes, up to six per Balestrandday), Sogndal has Sognefjord’s only airport, which has has airport, only which Sognefjord’s has Sogndal two daily flights to/from Bergen and three to/ slo. O from and daily) minutes, 45 Balestrandwith (Nkr175, 8 . ------UND www. Eids

car/caravan car/caravan PGRO CAM

57 68 61 88; 57 % ( , the valley that runs, the valley that

Along the Rv55, 3km 10.30am-5.30pm Jun-Sep) 10.30am-5.30pm dm 250, s/dNkr545/755, all s/dNkr545/755, dm 250,

99 23 15 00; www. hostel 11am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug; mid-Jun–mid-Aug; 11am-7pm % www.vassbakken.com; h

( come with a bathroom. May–mid-Sep) Mørkridsdalen h .

Sleeping ou can hire bicycles (Nkr75/120 per half/ Information Getting There & Away 8 8 57 68 61 88; 57 East of Skjolden, the Rv55 at first runs first East at of Skjolden, the Rv55 TheAustrianhome to was philos village ) Y % POP 500 8 office Tourist sognefjord.no; W full and day) kayaks (Nkr75/140 per half/full opher Ludwig Wittgenstein between 1913 between opher Ludwig Wittgenstein their The fjords obviously worked and 1914. magic – it was one of the most productive of his life. years 4 & Camping Kro Vassbakken ( with cabins Nkr25, plus per person Nkr120/140 site with bathroom cabins Nkr480, bathroom outdoor Nkr850; from Skjolden, this smallish campsite is set pop a a surging waterfall. There’s beneath here and all rooms inular cafe-restaurant its HI-affiliated hihostels.no/skjolden; incl breakfast) Skjolden the northernSkjolden is at of Lus limit its main building,Fjordstova, In trafjord. you’ll under tucked matters most that find a cafe, a swim one roof: the tourist office, and evenming pool, a climbing wall a shoot The bit of industrial-looking ing gallery. outside is a turbine from thejunk on display station. hydropower Norsk glacial lake turquoise beside the lovely vatnet for some excel north makes of the village, lent hiking. Nkr2500, linen extra; linen Nkr2500, here stables,Once farm accommodation the a cabin, apartment with or B&B op is lovely, rustic in a modern, All are decorated tions. simple, earthystyle: warm. The and cabin is particularly The atmospheric. cafe sells punnets home fields, of fruit fresh from the rasp – strawberry, and its own juices cakes gooseberry and blueberry. berry, 8 A car and passenger ferry (adult/child/car Nkr33/17/90, 20 minutes) shuttles hourly from 9am to 4.50pm between Solvorn and Urnes; most drivers prefer to leave their vehicles on the bank. Solvorn

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Urnes Gard Gard Urnes

May-Sep; h

Hotell Walaker 57 68 20 80; 68 20 57 If you want to stay or catch something or catch want to stay If you Ticket prices include an interesting The wing, Tingstova the oldest, has four Everything you’d expect self- of in terms you’d Everything % Urnes Nkr400/700, cabins & apt 3-night minimum & apt cabins Nkr400/700, to eat, tryto eat, the very next ferry, so relax a while at Urnes Urnes so relax a while at the very next ferry, Gard cafe, just below the church. waits for no one. It’s also worth noting that, waits for no one. It’s to catch time have won’t you visit over, your a 20-minute uphill walk from the ferry to as the guided tour the church: don’t dawdle, 45-minute tour in English. Be aware that it’s 45-minute it’s that tour in English. Be aware tifs – on the north wall, all recycled from the original church, and the simple crucifixion carving, set wall. the chancel above wooden carvingswooden in struggle,– animals locked intertwined bodies and abstractstylised mo 1070, while most of today’s structure was1070, while most of today’s are elaborate Highlights a centurybuilt later. the fjord from Solvorn, it gazes out over Lus it gazes out over the fjord from Solvorn, Thetrafjord. original church was built around Norway’s oldest preserved is of worship place Norway’s Site. Directly across Heritage World a Unesco Church Stave Urnes Nkr80/45; (adult/child and cherry to all. trees, which is available markable. Not least of the hotel’s pleasures is least of the hotel’s markable. Not and garden of lilac, roses, apple lawn its lovely beautiful historical rooms, with stunning inrooms, Standard furniture. painted hand the ’60s annex, are comfortable but unre paper, and two have claw-foot baths. claw-foot have and two paper, the main one has evocatively decorated (but decorated the main one has evocatively unfussy) historical rooms with antique wall greeted by Ole Henrik, the current owner, current the greeted owner, by Ole Henrik, three buildings, Spread between himself. hotel. In the hands of nine generations of the hands of nine generations hotel. In you’ll back to 1640, the Nitters, probably be credibly atmospheric place, sitting right place, sitting credibly atmospheric oldest family beside the fjord, is Norway’s ( 2700; the extraordinary hike. Molden o cyclist.They letcan bestthe on in cycle you including around, trails routes and walking is an environmental geologist, seasoned geologist, is an environmental and serious long-distance climber traveller, lambs to pet and free bikes to borrow. Eplet to petlambs to borrow. and free bikes Trond Henrik: Agnetheby run is Trond and catering facilities are provided, as well as aas well provided, facilities are catering a croquet course, factory, organic juice small

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57 69 32 88; 69 57 %

www.kayakandglacier.com;

www.boyumcamping.no;

adult/child Nkr120/60; adult/child May-Aug 10am-4pm, or by appoint by or 10am-4pm, May-Aug

(Nkr80) at 1:50,000, which comes 1:50,000, which (Nkr80) at h lists 12 marked walking routes, lists 12 marked

Sleeping Eating & At the small fjord-side shack, you can At the small fjord-side shack, you

Activities Museum Glacier Norwegian 57 69 32 52; 69 57 92 85 46 74; 46 85 92 % % Bøyum Camping Bøyum ( Nkr315- without bathroom d dm Nkr200, Nkr190, Nkr890/1100; 4-/8-bed cabins 400, and 3km from Beside the Glacier Museum ferry Fjærland the landing, CampingBøyum join one of its daily guided kayaking trips,join one of its daily guided kayaking to a full from 2½ hours (Nkr420) ranging (Nkr950). day Walking free sheet, The tourist office’s Asphalt, varyingminutes to three hours. For from 30 detail,greater supplement this with Fjærland complete and trails with route descriptions boots and you’re pull on your indicated; walks follow routes the local Most away. re used until quite have shepherds would cently to lead their flocks to higher summer pastures. 4 executed museum, 3km inland from the can learn how You ferryFjærland jetty. a 20-minutefjords are formed, see audio Jostedalsbreen, on presentation visual 1000-year-oldtouch way your wind ice, penetrates the mockthrough a tunnel that ice and even see the tusk of a Siberian wool ly mammoth who met an icy demise 30,000 ago. years 2 Kayaking & Glacier Fjærland Kayak ( daneset; ment) or canoe, motor or rowing boat hire a kayak, touch the ice. Ice blocks from here were used were here from blocks ice. Ice the touch Olympics in Winter the 1994 at as podiums Lillehammer. Bøyabreen Bøyabreen, more spectacuAt blue, creaking the to the eastlar than Supphellebreen over happen upon glacial calving might hill, you la into the melt-water as a hunk tumbles glacier tongue. the beneath goon o Bremuseum; (Norsk museum.no; & O Sep Apr-May, 10am-4pm Jun-Aug, story on flowing ice and how it has sculpt ed the Norwegian landscape, visit this well ------, is at IER GLAC v55, check your (www.bokbyen.no)

Jostedalsbreen Glacier Jostedalsbreen Jostedalsbreen, mainland Jostedalsbreen, Jostedalsbreen Turkart Jostedalsbreen Fjærland, also called Mundal, also called Mundal, Fjærland, largest icecap, crept countercurlargest Jostedalsbreen National Park. National Jostedalsbreen brochure, available at tourist offices tourist offices at brochure, available Sights GettingThere Away & 8 The virtually from Oc village hibernates The best hiking map for the region is Stat It’s still a powerful player, though, eroding still a powerful player, It’s f you’re headingf you’re north on R I POP 310 1 Supphellebreen to within 300m of the Sup can drive You andwalk right up then phellebreen glacier, tober onwards, then leaps to life in early then leaps to life in tober onwards, when the ferry runs again. May, Book of Norway Town shops dream, with a dozen a bibliophile’s of used books, mostlyselling a wide range in Norwegian, but with lots in English and other European languages. Most come to experience its pair of particuMost larly accessible glacial tongues, Supphel lebreen and Bøyabreen. Others come to be This place, known as the tiny bookworms. at the head of scenic Fjærlandsfjorden, pulls the head of scenic Fjærlandsfjorden, at year. as 300,000 visitors each in as many highlands of Sogn og Fjordane county. The county. highlands of Sogn og Fjordane outliers are protectand several main icecap ed as the an estimated 400,000 tonnes of rock each 400,000 tonnes an estimated km and in plac sq of 487 With an area year. the rules over es 600m thick, Jostedalsbreen Europe’s Europe’s while most glaciersrent, slowly advancing retreating.elsewhere were in the world Now itself has succumbed and is Jostedalsbreen also withdrawing. The of village hensive list of glacier walks, their levelshensive and guiding companies. Fjærland ens Kartverk’s ens Kartverk’s 1:100,000. The free Walks a compre gives other venues, and many JOSTEDALSBREEN mighty years For fuelgauge; Skjolden’s petrol stations are the last 77km. for 8 153 Sogndal Bus connects with Skjolden (Nkr130, hours) 1½ three to five times daily. day) fromday) here, which can also supplyyou with a brochure (Nkr20) on signed walks in the area. - - v5 - - t displays The two local ladies ladies local two The 57 69 32 33; www.fjaerland. % ( 10am-6pm Jun-Aug, to 4pm Sep-May) Jostedalen valley pokes due north valley pokes from Jostedalen Getting There & Away Information h 8 8 Buses bypass the village and stop on the R Lustrafjord’s Gaupne. This sits slim finger Lustrafjord’s long estab parks: national two between side and, on the west lished Jostedalsbreen a It’s Park. east,its to National Breheimen spectacular as the road runs beside the drive and bus trips to Balestrand that take in the musuem. and glacier 8 A car ferry (Nkr275/360 one way/return, 1¼ hours) runs twice daily between Balestrand and Fjærland in July and August (in June May, and ferry). passenger daily a there’s September near the glacier museum. Three to six run daily to/from Sogndal (Nkr73, 30 minutes) and Stryn (Nkr200, two hours). Jostedalen & Nigardsbreen The there and in your face, it’s like you’re in an you’re like face, it’s there and in your real. cinema, only it’s Imax 8 office Tourist org; office tourist friendly exceptionally Fjærland’s is within the Bok & Bilde bookshop on the main street, 300m from the ferry point. I together options, accommodation of list full a with prices, on the main door and rents bikes (half/full day Nkr40/160). Also ask about ferry

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Do visit the Brævasshy the visit Do www.hotelmundal.no;

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(www.lustrabui.no;

Lusterfjord’s northern bank between Solvorn and Skjolden, makes for a divert makes Skjolden, and Solvorn between bank northern Lusterfjord’s pi

The naive 16th-century paintings in the chancel were revealed only in the 1950s, when only in the 1950s, revealed were in the chancel paintings 16th-century The naive Hotel Mundal Hotel 8am-8pm May-Sep) 8am-8pm 57 69 31 01; 69 57 For Nkr500 extra, you can sleep the night Nkr500 extra, you For the whitewash was removed. was the whitewash and elaborately painted western entrance (the work of a typically near-anonymous ec near-anonymous typically of a work (the entrance western painted and elaborately 1600s. early in the added were that Painter’) ‘Nils the simply as artist known clesiastical from the church’s are pulpit fine multicoloured and arch the chancel The crucifix above days. earliest espresso too. espresso Kyrkje Dale shouldn’t stone, built of church, parish a medieval of but this little gem here, tion around tower wooden style with a in mainly Gothic it’s 1250, around Constructed be overlooked. behind this traditional bakery trained with Bakeriet i Lom’s Morten Schakenda, who is Schakenda, Morten i Lom’s Bakeriet with trained bakery behind this traditional with minimal by hand, is made sour dough All natural baker. best Norway’s considered tables are There for. miles that people drive goods the sweet it’s although ingredients, your enjoy to LUSTER STOP LUSTER on Luster, offer. on sustenance earthly and more divine both with stop, ing pit Lustrabui May-Sep; h % cier’s latest major advance, even if it’s only even if it’s major advance, latest cier’s glacier rightthe With for a cup of coffee. ( of Bøyabreen gla built into the moraine tta, map of Sognefjorden. Cafeteria Brævasshytta On one wall of its Mikkel Kaffe, a mountain Kaffe, On one wall of its Mikkel 1898 a giant, evocative eering theme, there’s traditional four-course Norwegiantraditional dinners need to book by 6pm.(Nkr360). Non-guests ceptionist explains, on the same occasion). The serves restaurant carefully prepared family came from Mundal, and the present family came from Mundal, Queen of Norway (not, as the charming re in the tower’s one suite, complete with wrap in the tower’s around views fjord and glacier – as did of whose Mondale, ex-vice president Walter US are traditional, but pretty and light. but pretty are traditional, armchairs made by local craftsmenby local armchairs made and a Rooms of a 1920s remodel ‘modern’ parlour. original local furniture with the odd bit of Viennese Thonet, paintings, rugs, leather ever since it was built in 1891, this beauti ful hotel retains much of its period interior: Nkr850/1200, water-view s/d Nkr1200/2100; s/d water-view Nkr850/1200, h o ( of the Bøyabreen glacier at the head of the at of the Bøyabreen glacier valley. has something for all pockets and sleeping viewpreferences, not to mention a great

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57 68 32 50; 57 If you’re an experienced walker and fan an experienced walker If you’re Of the Jostedalsbreen glacier tongues vis Of the Jostedalsbreen Flor (98k % Jostedalsbreen National Park National Jostedalsbreen 1 Centre Visitors Breheimsenteret ( braided glacial streams at Fåbergstølsgran glacial streams at braided glacialbig the creates that to the dam dane you’ll Styggevatnet. Along the way lake, find scenic glacial tongues and valleysseveral of fering excellent wild hiking. fers the best glacier walks. cy communing alone with (but not on) the ice, continue further road past up the the dramatic and easy to approach, and also of dramatic Nkr60/free; & Sep) May–mid-Jun displays,has a small museum of geological spectacularwith cafe a and shop a views eastern flank of ible from below, milky turquoise river, tumbling beneath the tumbling beneath river, turquoise milky

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225 has ‘troll Josted at the eastern at v55 Sognefjellet R Olden Briksdalsbreen. More Briksdalsbreen. More Briksdalsbreen attracts Briksdalsbreen attracts Oldedalen Skyss Oldedalen (No 160; Glacier Bus; www. www.oldedalen-skysslag.com)

Getting There & Around & There Getting 8 It’s about a 5km-return to the Briks walk It’s Even if you’re not staying, not can enjoy you if you’re Even From the Breheimsenteret visitors centre, a a centre, visitors Breheimsenteret the From From mid-June to mid-September, f you’re driving,f you’re leave the R per person). From their turnaround point, per person). From still a 15-minute on a rough path hike there’s up close in the gla breathe to see the ice. To a guided trip in an inflatable face, take cier’s Nkr250/125), Dinghies (adult/child dinghy. (p by Briksdal Adventure operated We part hourly in summer. approximately hordes of tour buses. It’s a temperamental hordes of tour buses. It’s its fur to glacier; in 1997 the tongue licked then retreatthest point for around 70 years, 2005, the reaches ed by around 500m. In andclamber would walkers glacier where for the and splintered. So stridecracked on Briks hikes guided no are there moment, dalsbreen, but capricious as she is, this may change. dal glacier face, either up the steepish path cart gentler Alas, track. or along the longer, the plied pony-carts that the traditional trans longer no years 100 over for route port visitors, but 68 05; 87 carts giant golfing (Nkr195 like vehicles cars’, 3.5km-long toll road (Nkr35 per vehicle), or a pleasant walk with interpretive panels, leads to the car park at Nigardsvatnet, the lagoon at the glacial snout. From mid-June to August, a ferry (Nkr48 return, 10am to 6pm) shuttles overthe lagoon. From the landing, it’s a sturdy walk over rocks to the glacier face itself. Briksdalsbreen the small town of From a scenic road leads 23kmend of Nordfjord, along Oldedalen past and Brenndalsbreen, glacial tongues offrom there on to the twin and Melkevollbreen easily accessible, the valley for cafe or come from the outlook for theand vegetables milk Meat, dinner. family farm. from the come restaurant 8 I at Gaupne and head north up Jostedal along the Rv604. alsbrebussen jostedal.com/brebussen; adult/child Nkr136/68) runs from Sogndal (with connec tions from Flåm,Balestrand and Lærdal) via Solvorn to the foot of the Nigardsbreen glacier, leaving at 8.45am and setting out on the return journey at 4.50pm.

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www.jostedalhotel.no;

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57 68 31 19; 57 57 68 39 14; 39 68 57 57 68 31 11; 57 Astrid, after many years travelling and Astrid, travelling after years many All cabins are neat, clean and cosy, but the clean and cosy, All cabins are neat, ) miss the last ferry shuttle back over over back ferry shuttle the last miss a rowing always there’s Nigardsvatnet, use the at the landing point for left boat the tardy. of Should you be unfortunate enough to enough to be unfortunate Should you % % % can accommodate up to five guests. up to five can accommodate pretty views. There pretty are also family rooms facilities that(Nkr1360) with self-catering family for three generations and is currentlyfamily for three generations rooms renovated care. Newly under Laila’s are very very comfortable, light and have of the Breheimsenteret visitors centre, this friendly hotel has been run by the same ( f Nkr1320; Nkr1070, Hotel Jostedal happy to provide itinerary suggestions. In an excellent this is starting point for winter, skiing.off-piste three-bedroom is particularly swish. Astrid of local walks and ishas researched a range dows overlooking the river’s rapid course. rapid the river’s dows overlooking tiful new communal kitchen, lounge terrace, and dining space with floor to ceiling win well kept campsite, right beside the Jostedal right beside the Jostedal campsite, kept well are impeccable, with a beau Facilities river. working overseas, returned overseas, vil her home to working and with her partnerlage runs this bucolic, caravan sites Nkr180/190, cabins Nkr390-1300; cabins Nkr180/190, sites caravan W o ( Two fascinating and friendly sisters and friendly the run fascinating Two most tempting sleeping options. valley’s 4 hour (Nkr760) walks on the ice include thehour (Nkr760) walks on lake. brief trip across Nigardsvatnet boat child Nkr260/130). Fees for the two-hour child Nkr260/130). Fees and five- (Nkr525) (Nkr460), three-hour to the glacier snout and brieflyand snout glacier the to its along adult/ one hour on the ice, tongue (around ( 760) TheNigardsbreen. easiest is the family walk Breførarlag Jostedalen Jostedalen river (Nkr800) and, for the truly and, for (Nkr800) river Jostedalen (Nkr1300). riverboarding hardy, (www.riverpig.no; rafting on the white-water offers Riverpig Riverpig

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(Nkr50; PGRO CAM VENTURE AD www.briksdal-adventure.com;

www.sande-camping.no; , up a short, up valley side to

Olden og Oldendalen og Olden Briksdal Adventure, also known Briksdal Adventure, You could spend an active day or could spend an active day You Sleeping Activities info 57 87 68 00; 68 87 57 info 57 87 45 90; 45 87 57 Stryn, Olden and Loen are not so much The apartments for urban are strangely Bødalsbreen May-Sep) % % POP 498 Olden serves to Briksdalsbreen. gateway as a pick walks in and around the valley, For up the map 15describes and indicates which 1:50,000), signed trails. NORDFJORD TO THE TO NORDFJORD COAST the 100km-long Nord most travellers For fjord is but a stepping stone between Sognefjorden and Geirangerfjorden. These a road thatby fjords are linked popular two past thewinds around the head of Nordfjord and Loen of Byrkjelo, Olden villages to the town of Stryn.larger but each makes in themselves, destinations and Kjenn for Briksdalsbreen base good a dalsbreen glaciers. Olden the location, though the cabins remain re the location, liably retro. 2 Adventure Briksdal ( h as Briksdal Breføring, Briks is based at of the blacktopthe end Fjellstove, dalsbre road, the next tongue north glacial of Briks dalsbreen. There to six-hour are daily five- leave Walks (Nkr600). hikes glacier guided crunch the ice crampons 10am and your at for about half the total time. the east, provides a couple of good hikingthe east,couple of good provides a possibilities. 4 Camping Sande ( Nkr450/600, cabins 2-/4-bed Nkr225, campsites Nkr950) apt Camping, of Sande environs in the lovely two near the northern end of Lovatnet. There’s boats, and, for hire, rowing also a free sauna small cafe-restaurant Its canoes and bikes. can tryserves or you from the lake fresh fish own line (rods luck and dangle your your Nkr70). per day - - - - - €€ €€

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This cosy PGRO CAM glacier is a delight a is glacier www.briksdalsbre.no; lden. There’s no bad positions There’s

www.melkevoll.no;

May-Sep) h

Sleeping Eating &

Kjenndalsbreen Getting There & Away 8 57 87 68 00; 87 57 57 87 38 64; 87 57 While the larger cabins are veryWhile the larger well % % to the glacier viewing point. You may not may to the glacier viewing point. You alone but you’ll yourself find be in far less Briksdalsbreen, just over than at company the mountain. you track parallel to the intensely turquoiseintensely to the parallel track you Lovatnet.of roada lake glacial After paying spot where little a lovely toll (Nkr40), there’s canoe or row can snack and hire a bike, you beforeundertaking ing boat, 5kmthe final to Oldendalen, from the Nordfjord village to Oldendalen, from the Nordfjord of Loen. The least visited of the four best- known glacial tongues, it vies with Nigards breen for the most approach as beautiful Kjenndalsbreen & Bødalsbreen The ful 21km run up Lodalen, valley a parallel Briksdal (Nkr75, one hour) once or twice daily, twice daily, or once hour) one (Nkr75, Briksdal calling by Loen and O (Nkr260). 8 Between June and August, buses leave Stryn for mountain lodge has six comfortablemountain lodge rooms, servingcabins and a cafe-restaurant deli cacies such as trout (Nkr200) and reindeer bed and reindeer skin in the ‘stone-age cave’ cave’ the ‘stone-age bed and reindeer skin in (Nkr125). Fjellstove Briksdalsbre touches that look like they’ve look like touches that styled been a gorgeous for a hipster magazine. There’s green campsite with stacks of space be can nab a rock pitches, or see if you tween eastwards, the Briksdalsbreen glacier blockseastwards, the horizon. basic camping hutsequipped, the far more ’70s with folky here are cute as buttons glacier is sticking out towards its tongue long, and the spin west you, slim Volefossen waterfall cascades, turn north and the long reach of Oldevatnet shimmers, while lake Nkr170, cabins Nkr700-800, with outdoor bathroom bathroom with outdoor Nkr700-800, cabins Nkr170, Nkr350; here. Look south and the Melkevollbreen Nkr890/1190, 4-bed cabins Nkr980) 4-bed cabins Nkr890/1190, ( ( often groups. up by tour snapped 4 Bretun Melkevoll strongly recommend advance reservation strongly advance recommend are places as and dinghies cars troll both for

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€€ ct- €€€ €€€ UND B&B pW L TEL L TEL

HO HO restestegen Bøavegen 6; Bøavegen s/d Nkr750/ Nkr750/ s/d

P PGRO CAM

s/d incl breakfast incl breakfast s/d

The facilities are mid-May–Sep; h

Jun-Sep, Fri-Sun only O only Fri-Sun Jun-Sep, h

year-round) www.visneshotel.no; www.loenfjord.no; www.strynvertshus.no;

h www.stryn-camping.no;

The waterside Loenfjord offers

) Stryn’s favourite cafe has five simple cafe has five favourite Stryn’s ) W Sleeping piW

57 87 10 87; 10 87 57 57 87 11 36; 87 57 57 87 50 00; 87 57 57 87 05 30; 87 57 To feel like royalty, request thein room a royalty, like feel To s Nkr900, d Nkr1495; s Nkr900,

% % % % Stryn POP 2300 and there are also a couple of large familyand there are also a couple of large rooms (Nkr1950). was building that style’ smaller 1890 ‘dragon occupiedduring hisKing Rama V of Siam by or the one where King Oscar of 1908 tour, Stryn Vertshus B&B Stryn Vertshus ( 1250; and Anne couldn’t rooms upstairs and Fred be more welcoming. The original house’s add charm, plus bones hundred-year-old suites. en they have all Hotel Visnes ( 1; Thefor sixfamily same run by the Visnes, list magnificent occupies two generations, ed properties, each with its own character. building, larger the in are rooms con Most furnished in period structed in 1850. It’s but with a rustic Thestyle restraint. more stunning viewsfjord expensivehave rooms upper Nordfjord, is a modern regional hub. is a modern regional Nordfjord, upper but retains some of its orig sprawl, does It and, in houses along the river inal wooden case, its ‘real’ is nicely energising ifvibe any been in the wild for a while. you’ve 4 Stryn Camping ( with outdoor 4-bed cabins Nkr180/260, campsites with bathroom 3-/6-bed cabins Nkr350, bathroom Nkr750/1050; friendlywelcome maintained and the well the eastern at Stryn neat at Camping. It’s the blocks uphill from end of town, just two main street. since 1884, it’s managed nowadays by the nowadays managed it’s 1884, since are deals family Summer fifthgeneration. good. Loenfjord Hotel ( Nkr1210/1640; from May; less expensive a little that’s accommodation than the Alexandra, belongs. It’s to which it on the eye,altogether less crowded gentler hire. bicycle and rowing-boat and offers TheStryn, small town of de facto capital of ------€

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L TEL L TEL HO HO s Nkr930- s

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Walking in Loen & piW May-Sep)

5787 31 26; www.nordfjord. www.olden-hotel.no; May–mid-Sep) www.lo-vik.no;

www.alexandra.no; %

h (

(Nkr50; 1:50,000), which describes

10am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Next door door Next mid-Jun–mid-Aug) 10am-4pm Sleeping Eating &

Sleeping Information 8 h

57 87 50 00; 87 57 57 87 76 19; 76 87 57 57 87 04 00; 04 87 57 Like Olden, it makes a good base for hik a good Olden, it makes Like % % % POP 398 nis court as a family hotel and marina. Run It offers two restaurants, two cafes, bars, a cafes, two restaurants, two offers It nightclub, swimming pools (both indoor centre, a ten and open), a spa and fitness disputed centre of action is a full-service resort tourism in the valley. and dominates ( Nkr1670/2540; from fast Alexandra Hotel spot at the northernspot at end beside the fjord, a peaceful green area that’s where there’s noise. traffic from away well bathroom Nkr695-1290; bathroom a yourself site is in the centre of town; find ( with Nkr495, bathroom with outdoor 4-bed cabins 4 Camping Lo-Vik nual uphill race. more than the course record of under one hour 10 minutes for La Sportiva Skaala an gins at a signed car park 2.5km east a signed car park 2.5km of Loen.gins at Allow seven to eight hours – considerably hike leads to the Skålatårnet tower, atop the atop leads to the Skålatårnet tower, hike 1848m-high summit of Skåla. The route be Lodalen though strenuous, great, One walks. 20 day glacial tongues. with ers. Arm yourself glaciers. From this tiny village, a road leads a road village, this tiny glaciers. From to the spectacular Bødalen and Kjenndalen Loen, at the mouth of dramatic Lodalen Loen,val dramatic of mouth the at to the nearby Olden, a gateway is, like ley, Loen to the fjord-side supermarket; they have a free suggested walks. with map Tourist office Tourist and bustling,warm and is but the welcome fjord views andmost have of the rooms balconies. nearly all have 8 Nkr1200/1750; no; 1170, d Nkr1260-1670, all incl breakfast; all incl d Nkr1260-1670, 1170, Olden Fjordhotel ( stunningly pretty sites. stunningly pretty There route along the campsites are several them occupy of and many to Briksdalsbreen 4

tern Fjords NordSLoeleepin fjngord To The Coast

The Wes 226 227 The Western Fjords NordEatFlorøingfj ord& Dri Tonk Theing Coast

------UM - - E MUS exhibits on Brendøyvegen;

lden (Nkr59, 15 15 (Nkr59, lden 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon- Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm The museum build first h

the lake steamer, was steamer, the lake kyst.museum.no;

sleepy settlement whose coat of whose coat sleepy settlement Lodalen, Sights 57 74 22 33; 22 74 57 minute climb up the Storåsen hill fromminute climb up the Storåsen For a scenic overview, it’s an easy it’s overview, scenic a For islands is easi offshore A group of several Nowadays, wealth comes from the oil in comes wealth Nowadays, Bergen (Nkr538, 6¾ hours, three daily) via ¨ % POP 8450 ( Nkr60/30; adult/child noon- Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Jun-Aug, Sun & Sat 4pm & Sun Sep-May) 3pm Sat fishing,to dedicated is ing model a including home and family’s 1900 fishing what diminished role. what 10- on Havrenesveien. the Florø Ungdomsskule by local ferry accessible ly for anmakes and signif of number a to trip day atmospheric inicant historical sites from which to take beauty. their incredible natural 1 main Florø’s Strandgata, around and On street, 19th-century most the significant signed and docu timbered houses are well mented in both Norwegian and English. Kystmuseet og Fjordane Sogn ¨ O and minutes) 10 (Nkr52, Loen minutes) Florø westernmost is a town, Florø, Norway’s pleasant if herrings three appropriately, arms features, rampant. The Fjord Base, just northeast large dustry. town, servesof giant Snorreankeret the off Florø is also enriched by fishshore oil field. and shipbuilding – the herring,farming the some a plays d’être, raison original town’s

- R €€ €€ BA On ANT ANT ANT ANT Tonnings

R STAU R STAU RE , RE , erhusvegen 11; erhusvegen P

FISH E CAF Both inside and Both inside 9am-1am Mon-Thu, Mon-Thu, 9am-1am h

10pm-2.30am Sat) 10pm-2.30am h

6pm-midnight mid-Jun–Aug, 6pm-midnight mid-Jun–Aug, h

www.strynvertshus.no; www.bryggja.info;

Dine on the tiny outside terrace Dine on the tiny LOVATNET DISASTERS LOVATNET mains Nkr180-230;

Eating Drinking &

A path signed Pilgrimssti (Pilgrim’s Path; indicated by blue markers), descends steep descends by blue markers), Path; indicated (Pilgrim’s signed Pilgrimssti path A ellesylt (Nkr105, one hour), from where Getting There & Away 8 Stryn Vertshus 57 87 05 30; 87 57 90 16 81 34; 90 16 100m before the toll road signs to Kjenndalsbreen. On the way, besides a series of edify of a series besides the way, On Kjenndalsbreen. signs to road the toll before 100m beached steamer the lake Lodalen, of remains the rusting spot can you tracts, ing biblical to 45 35 Allow two. one and disasters of on the waves being carried inland after this far walk. this out-and-back for minutes bigger scar on the mountain, but fortunately claimed no lives. but fortunately on the mountain, scar bigger the a memorial to of the site that marks cross a simple wooden to birchwood ly through found can be It cataclysm. 1936 in the away swept – itself disaster the 1905 victims of into the lake in three separate calamities. In 1905, when the resulting giant wave swept swept giant wave when the resulting In 1905, calamities. separate in three the lake into – found ever were whom people – only nine of 63 away rock crashed of 1 million cubic metres an estimated In 1936, inland. 400m deposited a left 1950, in The third, higher. even and lifting the steamer killing 72 wave its down, THE into split the lake that nearly be islands to what appear see you’ll Lodalen, Ascending down and crashed Ramnefjell from dislodged were that giant rocks in fact are These two. Måløy (Nkr240, two hours, three daily) hours, three two (Nkr240, Måløy Ålesund (Nkr255, 3¾ hours, one to four daily) ¨ ¨ xpress bus destinations include the following: % % ¨ ¨ via H the ferry runs to Geiranger gets its disco on as the night progresses. 8 E (there are only 30 seats; it’s wise to book). it’s (there are only 30 seats; Camp Base 31; Tonningsgata fl (1st most popular bar the main street, Stryn’s location. If it rains, the staff simply pulls over the staff If it rains, location. as Fish is done simply, the sail-shaped cover. fondant. chocolate are desserts a good like The space nautical interior is an intimate ( mains Nkr170-310; 4pm Sun) from riversidemost the of the gorgeous to make lunchtime burgers and salads (both Nkr130)lunchtime burgers (Nkr210), steaks (Nkr180) and tapas platters and pasta (Nkr160). Bryggja on its flower-bedecked terrace, this happy terrace, on its flower-bedecked best coffee hub servesvillage the town’s (they a Illy beans, and there is use Italian legion of European baristas), tastyvaried o ( 19; gata Sun) 11am-8pm & Sat, 2am Fri to serves local made from dishes traditional produce. 5 Sweden and Norway rested Norway and in 1913. head his Sweden building, larger Thethe hotel’s in restaurant,

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€€ €€ PUB L TEL E CAF ANT ANT - HO piW

R STAU Strandgata 23; Strandgata

UB, RE UB, P dishes Nkr106-130; dishes 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri,

h www.nordicchoicehotels.no;

57 74 30 00;57 74 www.fjord www.tokokker.as; % Strandgata 33; Strandgata

s/d from Nkr1100/1400; from s/d

One of a couple of pubs where (

Come here for well-priced fare Come here for well-priced Eating Drinking & Drinking & Entertainment & Drinking

Information Getting There & Away

8 8 57 75 75 75; 75 75 57 57 75 22 33; 75 57 57 74 01 22; 01 74 57 9am-10pm) Florø is the first stop on the Hurtigruten coast slo and Bergen and four times a week from % % % Widerøe flies here up to four times daily from O Stavanger. al ferry as it heads north from Bergen. ly featuring halibut, cod or salmon. You can salmon. You halibut, cod or ly featuring barge. outdoors on its moored also eat 6 Shamrock 58) (Strandgata to down a beer, folk of Florø head the young nibble on a snack or let their hair down at also shows all disco. It the Saturday-night major football matches. 8 office Tourist kysten.no; Strandgata 30; 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Jun-Aug) 8 Kokker To Bistro ( h portions than atmosphere.and large rather and other squid, salmon, monkfish There’s seafood served sauce and mash, with cream sal good and chips, burgers, as fish as well ads and pizzas. The special dish of the day for a song (Nkr97).goes Hjørnevikbua ( dinner mains Nkr255-285) Nkr65-169, lunch dishes The on the 2nd restaurant floor of Hjørne serves interior, vikbua, with its ship-like soups, then fish includes mean lunch that ambitious evening most meals, some rather meadow, though a trek to the toilets,to the trek a though is a meadow, delight. tent camper’s Florø Hotel Quality ( 11; Hamnegata right beside the marinaOn the quayside, and constructed a dockside of in the style banqueting present (the warehouse isarea best ac store), this is Florø’s a former fish Rooms with sea viewscommodation. cost made ‘boatno extra have a couple and beds’, Bryggekanten,of recycled rowing boats. its sources mostrestaurant, of its food locally a visit in its own right. and warrants 5

- - - - - € €

apt Cy

- UND 57 75 Kro ) % NTS TMENTS (

W campsites campsites AR

AP PGRO CAM exploitation of www.florbu.com; Krokane Kai; Krokane display – in a display

herring, potatoes, potatoes, herring, rents out rowing boats www.krocamp.no; 57 74 81 00; 74 57

Krokane Camping Krokane % www.florbu.com; ( (Nkr10), and has map sheets

Snorreankeret

These excellent, family-owned, hires motor boats (Nkr200 to(Nkr200 boats motor hires

www.krocamp.no)

Sleeping Tours Activities

57 75 22 50; 75 57 91 39 28 88; 91 39 table’s cleared away, the festivities con the festivities away, cleared table’s tinue all weekend. running track, straightened out and out straightened running track, of laden with plates and charge, of all free and drinks, bread the once Then, the scene. got you’ve HERRING TABLE HERRING a herring June, in Friday third the On in the heart 400m long is erected table 400m standard imagine a Just Florø. of THE WORLD’S LONGEST LONGEST WORLD’S THE % % peninsula 2.5km east of town. The shoreside cabins Nkr675/975, all with bathroom; all Nkr675/975, cabins kane Camping occupies site on a a wooded ( 5-/6-bed Nkr450/550, cabins 2-/4-bed Nkr150, a boat or kayak and putter around the fjord). and putter or kayak a boat Camping Krokane fully furnished flats are right beside a tiny in beside a tiny are right fully furnished flats can hire their own moorings (you let and have ( Nkr650-1000) 4 Rorbu Florø Pick up its leafletvenues. of summer Between June and August, the tourist office June Between runs a number of tempting guided tours. T cling in Flora in cling on local hikes. Hiking & Cycling & Hiking sells a useful booklet,The tourist office (Nkr100 per day) and motor boats (from and motor boats (Nkr100 per day) Nkr200/300 per three hours/day). per day), while per day), 22 50; Krokane Kai) Krokane (Nkr200 and sea kayaks Nkr400 per day) Boating Rorbu Florø platform that first pumped the country’s oil – the country’s pumped first that platform and the exploration illustrates fields. the North Sea oil and gas 2 al boats. Theal boats. oil has the shape of the original building that ring trading post barely 150 years ago. A ago. post years barely 150 ring trading collectionsecond houses a coast typical of the foundation of the island as a small her the foundation

tern Fjords NordAFlctorøivfjitordies To The Coast

The Wes 228 229 The Western Fjords NordGeIslanttifjngdsord AroThere Toun The d& FAl waCoorøyast - - - - - Lake - , check out single-track single-track (Josted

Batalden 10am-4pm or 10am-4pm h

Stryn Summer Ski has a prehistoric Troll Cave, Cave, has a prehistoric Troll , a bleak place outside the short outside place a bleak , has a beautifully restoreda beautifully has 12th- Kinn Askrova (old Stryn mountain road) over the over road) Stryn mountain (old adult/child Nkr80/40; adult/child

the gallery Batalden and small museum at in their sensitively can overnight You Havbu. B&B. restored cottage century been built church, believed to have by British Celts sheltering from religious stimulating off-the-beaten-track day trip. day off-the-beaten-track stimulating can reserveThe ferries and tourist office also advise on island accommodation. never been ex deepestwhose depths have plored. On the island of . There’s a worthwhile and informative and informative a worthwhile There’s . - Fugle Oppstryn www.stryn.no/sommerski)

Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre Park National Jostedalsbreen www.jostedalsbre.no;

as it runs alongside the river that descends from Lake Strynevat Lake from that descends the river alongside as it runs . It took a team of local and immigrant Swedish navvies more than more navvies Swedish and immigrant local of a team It took . Gamle Strynefjellsvegen in the village of of in the village connect the mainland Rv15 before diving into the first of three long tunnels that will bring you back to back you long tunnels that will bring of three the first diving into before Rv258 (Stryn Sommerskisenter;

The Gamle Strynefjellsvegen is normally free of snow from June to October. Electronic Electronic October. June to from snow of is normally free The Gamle Strynefjellsvegen After the completion of these three linked tunnels in 1978, the old road was overshad was old road the tunnels in 1978, linked three these of the completion After After crossing the watershed 10km beyond the ski centre, there begins a much more begins a much more there the ski centre, beyond 10km the watershed crossing After The steep ascent behind you, continue along a good-quality unsurfaced unsurfaced good-quality continue along a you, behind ascent The steep Some 9km along the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, you reach reach you the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, 9km along Some The climb to the high plateau is spectacular, enhanced by thin threads of water tum water of thin threads by enhanced is spectacular, the high plateau The climb to At an interpretive panel and sign 17km beyond the National Park Centre, turn right Centre, the National Park beyond and sign 17km panel an interpretive At After 20km, stop to visit the stop 20km, After xpress boats call in twice daily on the run nated a National Tourist Route, it again enjoys a share of a new, if softer, limelight. softer, if of a new, a share enjoys it again Route, Tourist a National nated is indeed open. name) official (its ‘Strynfjellet’ if the indicate signs along the Rv15 the National Park Centre and onward, retracing your steps back to Stryn. back steps your retracing and onward, Centre the National Park of 27km against along a wide road 12 speedy kilometres alternative: younger its by owed always But the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen no comparison. was – there winding single track desig freshly Now, wild scenery. of with time on their hands and lovers travellers drew close. run beside two-lane smooth, a fast, for left Turn the Rv15. rejoin to descent gentle Breidalsvatn summer skiing; most of those photos of bikini-clad skiers you see around were snapped were see around you of bikini-clad skiers photos of those summer skiing; most right here. bare, by overlooked tarns turquoise milky of a necklace that runs above road the ground hugs vegetation the sparse on this upland plateau, Here rock. boulder-strewn viewing platform above Videfossen, where the water churns beneath you. churns beneath the water where Videfossen, above platform viewing Centre extensive most Norway’s it offers July, time in until some May late But from season. of the country. Until well into the 1950s, a team of some 200 workers, armed only with armed workers, 200 some of a team the 1950s, into Until well the country. of snow. metres-high of miles several digging through in winter, it clear keep would spades, There glacial melt. carrying torrents roadside roaring of and a trio the heights bling from the particular, in Savour, strip. this narrow you ascend as points stopping several are to take the take to the lay to years 10 to opened of civil engineering at the time, a masterpiece considered The road, mountain. part route in this east-to-west was the principal it years, than 80 For more 1894. in traffic variety of stuffed wildlife. Outside, enjoy its unique garden with more than 300 species of than 300 species with more garden its unique enjoy Outside, wildlife. stuffed of variety of picnic cluster A and French. English Norwegian, labelled in each endemic vegetation, the lake. over vista a spectacular offers tables impressive as anywhere in the country. as anywhere impressive Nasjonalparksenter; alsbreen 6pm May–mid-Sep) falls and a rock and avalanches illustrating exhibits plus film about the glacier 10-minute GAMLE STRYNEFJELLSVEGEN: A DRIVING TOUR FROM STRYN FROM TOUR DRIVING A STRYNEFJELLSVEGEN: GAMLE from eastwards Head hours. four a comfortable takes route 130km This spectacular Stryn along the as views ride with mountain an inspirational It’s itself. shore the lake then follows net, f you’re driving,f you’re the most scenic way north to E I skjærskaia Quay skjærskaia small islands, each making for a to several Florø from Florø’s Local ferries leaving Måløy by road is via Bremanger island. Offshore Islands Around between Bergen (Nkr630, 3½ hours) and Måløy (Nkr255, one hour).

------€ € €

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caning HO T MARKET , E CAF PGRO CAM Kannestei Gate 1 49; Gate

10am-4.30pm Mon- 10am-4.30pm h dinner mains Nkr250-

‘Yours and Mine’ is a and Mine’ ‘Yours This and unex modern, ) Gate 1; Gate This dockside place is both www.steinvik-camping.no;

www.torgethotell.no; Gate 1 44) Gate pW

57 85 23 36; 23 85 57 The nearest campsite to Måløy %

11am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-1am Fri & Sat) Fri 11am-1am Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Eating Sleeping h , rising from the sea like the tail of a the sea like from the , rising

57 85 12 60; 85 57 57 85 18 75; 85 57 57 85 10 70; 10 85 57 95 33 31 33; A short of town west 10km for about drive year round) year % % % % before you. Kraftstasjonen ( 350; the freshest ofRita and Arne Andal offer Come for cod, halibut and monkfishfish. Snorre Sjømat Snorre (Havfruen; Sat) 10am-2pm Fri, forced to work’a wet shop (‘Born to fish, fish plaque on the wall) and small cafe, the says serving with mash (Nkr90), salm cakes fish on and shrimp sandwiches (Nkr45), various dishes and, of course, cod andstockfish chips (Nkr130). Din & Min ( hole.drinking night late and cafe little busy or some sip a coffee the word; And small’s the or nibble a snack within thing stronger In interior. of its agreeably woody confines climb to the upstairs ter warmer weather where you’llrace, the harbour spread have Hotell Torget ( Nkr1090/1190; pectedly hotel is friendly and infor stylish, occupiesmal. It was once an old what balconiesfactory: rooms have of its 17 half and look directly the waterfront across and open loft a great far mountains. There’s can drink you space on the top floor where dock from floor to ceil boats tea and watch ing mansard windows. 5 places to a cluster of three good find You’ll and drink veryeat near the express boat jetty. brings you to the bizarre rock to the bizarre you brings nen whale. 4 Camping Steinvik ( Nkr500-750; apt Nkr400-900, cabins Nkr200, sites h spectacularhas lanesea busy the views over and a particularlywith cosy common room get there, cross the sofas and armchairs. To to the eastright after bank, turn bridge 2km down track the follow and school a beside credit cards. hill for 1.2km. No - - - -

- - - -

tourist ). Outdoor Pur Måløy, at the at Måløy, Knutholmen www.fordkysten.no;

with the fishing boats with the fishing boats www.knutholmen.no;

, enjoy the hiking and pass by . To while away the time be away while To . 48 14 04 88; 48 14 % (

Svanøy 57 79 69 00; 69 79 57 8am-midnight) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon- Sat, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm

% Vågsøy island and neighbouring Selje areSelje neighbouring and island Vågsøy On At 233m, the highest point on Tansøy h you. right before brewed specially for the restaurant, on the restaurant, specially for brewed of terrace the dockside ( Nkr595; platters seafood mains Nkr298-319, 4pm Sun Jul–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Mon-Fri 10am-4pm Jul–mid-Aug, 4pm Sun year) of rest of shrimps, a plate scoff ferries, tween a beer, or down claws crab split some around 10,000. You can still visit a cou a still visit can You 10,000. around at the quayside them; ask ple of office h processing factory on its outskirts that outskirts on its factory processing and mack when the herring operates peak But at its near. come shoals erel houses 50 herring salt had over Kalvåg of workforce a seasonal that employed ing point at Smørhamn to the small, the small, to ing point at Smørhamn of fishing village preserved sensitively picture-postcard it’s Nowadays Kalvåg. one giant fish- just and there’s pretty KALVÅG and Florø between travelling If you’re make do island, via Bremanger Måløy land the ferry from the 5km detour POP 3500 suits: Selje & Vågsøy Communes laced with sea-view hiking routes (pick up the 1:50,000 walking map real, working town. real, working it’s linked to the mainland by the graceful linked it’s S-curve Commercial bridge. Måløybrua a refreshingly it’s ply up and down and boats Nestling beneath a pair of rounded hills, beneath Nestling a pair of giant breasts, like for all the world The little fishing town of fishing The little island. lies on Vågsøy mouth of Nordfjord, Måløy offers great panoramic views the sur panoramic over great offers rounding archipelago. the small deer centre. will savour the dramatic landscapes, par the dramatic will savour ticularly cleft. the Kinnaklova pageant, which celebrates the history which celebrates pageant, of the on the island. Climberschurch hikers and persecution. second or third week On the the site of the Kinnespelet it’s end in June,

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v618, or aboard the twice-daily % ( The Selje Hotel is right beside The Hotel Selje cafe Åndalsnes: by road through thethrough road by Åndalsnes: tunnels and fortifications. and tunnels II 9am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter shorter 9am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, Getting There & Away Information 8 8 h 57 85 88 80; 85 57 Stunning Geirangerfjord, a Unesco World World Geirangerfjord,Stunning Unesco a from this tour mecca though andStray Thearchitecturally portunique of Local buses run between Måløy and Selje % POP 2244 Åndalsnes to ways equally dramatic There are two approach pass or along Romsdalen as you Trollstigen ride the spectacularly scenic Raumabanen. More islet-strewnMore coastline and ever more push fur as you deeply incised fjords await ogther northwards into the region of Møre Romsdal. Site, a must on most tours and a fa Heritage for cruise ships, staggers anchorage vourite its summer influx. beneath you’ll the waterways find and roads less and the scenerycrowded just as arresting. theand deservesÅlesund least wander, a at pass is one of the the Trollstigen over drive most spectacular. world’s artisans and food producers, as well as sug gesting walkingtrails and beaches. They are region’s the about knowledgable incredibly also to routes pilgrim its from heritage, cultural rich WWits 8 From Måløy, you have two stunningly attractive ways of reaching Selje the – splendid fjord-side drive along the R Nordfjord express boat (Nkr83, 25 minutes). (Nkr106, one hour) six times daily on weekdays and once on Sunday. THE NORTHERN FJORDS and bright bright and year) of rest 10am-3pm Hotel Selje ( Nkr975/1700) a ’60sthe beach, shaped-stone and wood butseason, expensivein are rooms Its pile. a spa. There’s comfortablesuper and there’s a nice retro charm to it all. 8 office Tourist no; hours rest of year) Selje’s tourist office, at the apartments and cabins of list a keeps harbour, in the area and can give you directions to local

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Selje , 32km by road from Selje, 57 84 50 77; Gate 1; urtigruten coastal ferry also % www.doktorgarden-selje.no;

( Selja IslandSelja Vestkapp slo (Nkr620, 11 hours) via Stryn (Nkr180, Sights Sleeping Getting There & Away Information 8 8 90 92 97 71; 97 92 90 Nettbus express runs three times daily to/ % Selje & Selje POP 700 shared bathroom Nkr1090; bathroom shared 4 Doktorgarden ( panorama. From mid-June to mid-August, mid-June From panorama. guided two-hour arranges the tourist office transporttours, including boat (adult/child Nkr200/100), departing 10am and 1.15pm. at the church of St Sunniva on Selja Island date Island Selja on the church of St Sunniva from the 11th and 12th centuries respective forly: this has been a place of pilgrimage stillis tower 40m-high A years. 1000 over intact and can be climbed for a splendid 1 monastery Selja The monastery haunting ruins of Selja and isn’t Norway’s westernmost point despite isn’t Norway’s stillit but name, the seasuperb provides can surf the point break at views. You or the more reliable beach one at Few visitors make it to make visitors Few edge on the western the charm of this village of pristine, with its strand white of Norway, beach.

in at Måløy. The H calls in. from O two hours). 8 The express boat to and from Bergen (Nkr790, 4½ hours) to Selje (Nkr83, 25 minutes) puts 5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Jul, 10am- 4pm Mon-Sat Jun & Aug) the second floor of this lovely old house upthe second floor of this lovely They share a large, the hill from the harbour. and guest kitchen. Down spotless bathroom a and Karin also have stairs, Anna, Torkjell bookshop excellent little basement gallery, hill from the port, you can wake here to seahill from the port, can wake you cakes. viewsbaked freshly of aroma the and big, rooms occupy carefully decorated Four 8 office Tourist (Nkr140) is tasty too. On weekends, live acts live weekends, too. On is tasty (Nkr140) elevated sometimes little up on the take afterstage dinner. prepared a variety of ways, plus one of theone of plus of ways, a variety prepared soup fish starters. style international Rita’s

- - - - - Y at HIKING AILWA , a a , C R ENIC SC Romsdals-Fjella Refviksanden Geiranger Trollstigen An excellent half-day day An excellent half-day Activities Aksla/Nesaksla Thecleared and open from pass is usually dalsvegen, 50m north dalsvegen, of the roundabout before the Esso petrol takes It station. around an hour to 90 minutes to reach the (715m),summit of Nesaksla the prominent Åndalsnes. The rises above peak that ascent rewards with the most astonishing views of to August from Åndalsnes’ lakeside stationto August lakeside from Åndalsnes’ or station the at Book 600m. at Bjorli, to up tourist office. 2 Hiking The pamphlet (Nkr30) describes seven signed hiking trails supple to need You’ll area. Trollstigen the in ment this with the map carries both. The1:80,000. The tourist office mountain walks of can arrange tourist office guide. four to six hours with a qualified o (www.romsdal.com) Roms begins right in town, along hike soundtrack. Around you as you descend are as you Around you soundtrack. Nation the open reaches of Reinheimen established Norway’s in 2006 and al Park, still where wild reindeer third largest, crop the mosses and soft grass. to mid-October; May late early in the sea trip through a popular an impressive son it’s cross-countrywallshigh between field, ski of snow. Raumabanen along this spec run daily year-round Trains tacular route, meetingmain line, after the also a tourist Dombås. There’s at 114km, return one Nkr460/230, (adult/child train free) with on-board child per adult travels commentary daily from June runs twice that valley below, as well as a perputal waterfall as well valley below, ste Nkr3950, d Nkr3150, with shared bathroom bathroom with shared d Nkr3150, Nkr3950, ste

------, in CLIFF C DRIVE ENIC SC KRÅKENES LIGHTHOUSE KRÅKENES (krakenesfyr.com; South of Ån of South

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, slice down its flanks.

Sights Kråkenes Lighthouse Kråkenes The road rolls over treeless, windswept grassland, runs past a long line of twirling of a long line runs past grassland, windswept treeless, over rolls The road

At the top, a visitors centre has been THE ROLLING ROAD including stops. hours, of couple in a driven be comfortably trip can round This 42km Lighthouse). (Kråkenes Fyr Kråkenes for signs follow then Måløy, from the Rv617 Take visit to detour signed the short, worth it’s or back, there the way On Nkr2100, minimum 3 nights) minimum Nkr2100, and of the cliffs with stunning views romantic spot a it’s or stormy, Sunny shoulder. B&B or bridal suite. its in stay to possible It’s pounding ocean. 1.4km reach of white sand, voted Norway’s finest beach in a 2010 online poll. 2010 beach in a finest Norway’s voted sand, white of reach 1.4km and right here) sited why they’re you’ll understand car and your outside windmills (step steep cliffs. of views staggering offers panormas of the snaking road and the lush here are dramatic viewing platforms that jut viewing that platforms here are dramatic and offer abyss the and there over here out to both withstand the extreme and terrain textures. Leadingto mimic its many from built from concrete,rusted steel and glass, fectively single lane. Several dramatic water fectively dramatic single lane. Several falls, including the thundering 180m-high Stigfossen extra daredevil element to its 11 hairpin much of it is ef bends and a 1:12 gradient, tional Tourist Route, it was completed in tional Tourist add an To 1936 afterof labour. eight years dalsnes, the Troll’s Ladder is a thriller of a dalsnes, the Troll’s climb or descent. Recently declared a Na Trollstigen (www.trollstigen.net; from the valley floor, is considered the ulti from the valley floor, among mountaineers. challenge mate vertical mountain wall in Europe, its ragged and often cloud-shrouded summit, 1800m quered in 1958 by a joint Norwegian and The highest skywards. rears team, English which the valley features). Near Åndalsnes, Near which the valley features). con first Wall), (Troll Trollveggen dramatic might have a sense of déjà vu if you’ve seenif you’ve vu a sense of déjà might have Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince Trollveggen line drop in Dombås, the E136 and rail From northwest down to Romsdalen (youparallel 1 and the surrounding landscapes are abso are landscapes surrounding the and lutely magnificent. town, nestled beside Romsdalfjord might locals are delightfulbe nondescript, but the by sheer walls and plummeting waterfalls. WWII, the modernBadly bombed during The route down from Dombås ploughs rail through a deeply cut glacial valley flanked

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Festivals & Events This welcoming, HI-affiliated, sod- This welcoming, HI-affiliated, Sleeping

) , who can also organise ski guides. , who can also dm/s/d/f Nkr290/500/710/935; dm/s/d/f 71 22 13 82; 71 22 13 97 17 94 42; 17 97 71 22 68 99; 7168 22 A week-long get of A week-long together for lovers

See www.romsdal.com and www.kirketa and See www.romsdal.com % % % Resort Trollstigen ( from 4-/5-bed cabins Nkr190/200, sites caravan Nkr500/1150; this well- its entrance, troll at ping wooden campsite is 2km along the Rv63 highwaykept pW roofed hostel Åndalsnes train is 1.5km from a on the E136, directionstation Ålesund. It’s buildingsnice garden complex of separate area. A big breakfast lounge with a great The Ålesund is included in summer. buffet meets byright passes that bus train the as does the morning bus to Geiranger via Trollstigen. jumping was invented in Åndalsnes; thisjumping was invented contest is held in mid-August. 4 Setnes Vandrerhjem Åndalsnes ( no; the fjord, with the most common catches turbot,haddock, cod, pollack, coalfish, being halibut, whiting, herring and mackerel. z Fjellfestival Norsk Festival; Mountain (Norway no) eventsfolk of plenty with outdoors great the thrown in. Early July. Rock Rauma (www.raumarock.com) in early days outdoor rock gathering. Two August. Race Base World (www.worldbaserace.com) metressteep of where from slopes, downhill Spring to the fjord. ski right down can you once the skiing is possible summer and early opens as well. road Trollstigen ski guid For ket.com for more information. or contact ing see www.skiromsdal.no Aak Fishing Trips Fishing John Kofoed ( per rod) plus Nkr 75 Nkr350/175, 3-hrs adult/child tours three-hour fishing runs Kofoed John times daily inon Romsdalsfjorden three Reserve directly the or through summer. in fish There 68 different are tourist office. ------HIKING Klatring i i Klatring (1439m) is one of the Roms is (1439m) (Nkr300), which includes rock- Kirketaket Other spin-off hikes from here include hikes Other spin-off This can also be the start trail for walking Utilising a series of steel walkways, theof steel a series walkways, Utilising of fjords and wild peaks awaiting those whoof fjords and wild peaks awaiting down challenges. are up to its ski up/ski hours three to five and takes dalen ‘classics’ 1000 vertical over to ascend but delivers Skiing Romsdalen is considered among the best with the rewards skiing areas in the country, viewscontinuous and powder untouched of Romsdal in both Nor and ice-climbing information and English. wegian Serious climbers should buy The best local climbs are the less extreme sections of the 1500m-high rock route on and the 1550m-high Roms Trollveggen of others.dalshorn, but there are a wealth for a gentle, forrested walk, or, for some forrested walk, or, for a gentle, more challenging,thing continue up to the steeper section along Stigfossen. Climbing Kløvstien Kløvstien the on the RV63, Beginning in Isterdalen, initial valley section is good Kløvstien path’s the straightforward ascent of the summit of (991m) and a trek on to Åkesfjel Høgnosa along the traverse let (1215m). Alternatively, and descend to route 5km eastward marked the head of Isfjord. at village, Isfjorden walk in reverse. You can buy ticketsbuy can thefrom in reverse.walk You at Wear hotels and campsites. tourist office, of water. least and bring plenty sturdy trainers From July to September, a bus (Nkr125, in to September, July From leaves information) cluding map and trail every mornning Åndalsnes for Vengedalen 9.30am, at do the to making for an easy way Romsdalseggen, and you can walk from bothRomsdalseggen, and you directions, from Åndalsnes to Vengedalen and back to Åndalsnes. or from Vengedalen section natural a series of is Romsdalstrappa, sher stonestairs Nepalese of a team (built by metalpas) leading to a 6.5m-long grid that it a ‘viewingjuts into thin air (calling plat just to do it justice). doesn’t seem form’ summit of Nesaksla (715m),summit of Nesaksla more gets a little in the steeperhandrails but includes tricky section aver your and did not seem to phase The most spectacular Norwegian toddler. age initial stage of the walk is easy enough to is easy of the walk stage initial in balletbe done first the After flats. Nebba, to the onward path viewing point, the marked the Romsdal Alps, the Rauma river and the and river Rauma the Alps, Romsdal the fjord. Romsdal

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koselig Eating Drinking &

Sødahl-Huset s/d Nkr1195/1550, dinner mains Nkr275-325; Nkr1195/1550, s/d 71 22 75 00; 71 22 75 Even if you’re not in the need of suste if you’re Even The the E136, in a quiet hotel lies beside into straight can walk the hotel, you From Modern rooms are simple and spacious,are simple rooms Modern restaurant dinner only Mon-Sat; dinner only restaurant omsdalsvegen 8; omsdalsvegen

% local artisans (including the multitalented an enthralling and there’s ladies themselves) vin knits, selection of sheep skins, leather, clothes, jewellerytage poke to ceramics and around. At night there are beer tastings and performances.live the interconnecting town library, cinema andcinema interconnectingthe library, town auditorium, or to the public pool, 110m away. 5 o (R shorter Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 2-7pm & Sat, Fri year) of rest hours ‘localcake, coffee, burgers, homemade and And, ice cream – served ladies’. by lovely and Rannveig all true. Owners Mari, it’s yes, the food here is and Sissel are indeed lovely proudly local, from the berry sorbets to the to the coffee pour-over cheese) burger. ofnence, this social hub also sells the work corner of the Romsdalen Valley, 4km from Valley, corner of the Romsdalen town. Bellevue Hotel Grand ( 5; h hotel, up on its own hill, is the town’s large true centre. After a recent, smart renova glamorous.tion, its busy lobby is now rather views fine and lots of its 86 rooms have Most most of light. The is the town’s restaurant col with a fascinating formal and decorated lection of local paintings, though the food is less remarkable. capsulates the region’s rustic but is appeal, region’s the capsulates on to a new switched and stylish super gen of traveller. eration andhistoricwhile are atmospheric rooms views and of mountains have bold – all equally cosy retreats each are afterfields, Guests and nonguests can an active day. simple suppers from dinner, prebook for feasts to three-course (Nkr595) in(Nkr179) the the stunning dining room; it’s pine-clad verypicture of brimming with wildflow candles and vases madeers. Dishes are hearty and flavourful, local produce and nicely finessed.with great to Breakfasts, too, show the same attention detail.

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svele the char s/d Nkr995/1400; s/d

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www.hotelaak.no;

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Hotel Aak Hotel 71 22 71 71; 71 22 16 29; 71 22 16 sprinkle of sugar between the folds, or folds, the between sugar sprinkle of of with a slice stuffed sublimely simple smear of butter and butter of sublimely simple smear acteristic caramelised brown cheese of cheese brown caramelised acteristic the region. of hartshorn, along with a measure of of along with a measure hartshorn, of in the toppings. Plus it’s buttermilk. tart jam, Forget stunning fjord scenery, makes a makes scenery, stunning fjord cake- satisfying particularly A unique? the come from and flavour texture like salt an unusual rising agent, addition of crossings. Ferries have served served have Ferries crossings. 1970s the early since their cafeterias guarded closely their own and have the expe from apart what, So recipes. of one in the presence eating of rience that’s all its own. own. all its that’s and at cafes be found can pancake, tradi but, the region, throughout hotels fjord for choice snack of the it’s tionally, SVELE AHOY SVELE devotion its for known is well Norway fjords western but the the waffle, to treat afternoon sweet a have and coast mid-Jun–Aug, restaurant 4-10pm; restaurant mid-Jun–Aug, % % h all with a light touch that beautifully en all with a light touch that family. Kristine and Odd Erik Rønning – lo Kristine family. super-experienced travellers, cals, dedicated imbued and skiers – have climbers, hikers One of the oldest tourist hotels in Norway is now in the hands of a charming young ( o canoes (Nkr50/200 per hour/day) and bikes canoes (Nkr50/200 per hour/day) from reception. (Nkr50/200 per hour/day) low the peaks. There’s a good cafe and a cosy a good low the peaks. There’s can order fresh room, and you TV/recreation up each morning.bread to be picked Hire this friendly campsite enjoys a dramatic set this friendly campsite enjoys a dramatic and nestled Rauma be ting beside the River bathroom Nkr490, 7-bed cabins with bathroom with bathroom cabins 7-bed Nkr490, bathroom Nkr950; ( with outdoor 4-bed cabins Nkr235, sites caravan popular with skiers in winter. Camping Åndalsnes cabins have bathrooms and the two-bedders bathrooms cabins have it’s are smartly Open year-round, renovated. ing the River Rauma and embraced by moun Rauma and embraced ing the River tains, is scenic and peaceful. All but one of the from Åndalsnes, direction Geiranger. The from Åndalsnes, direction Geiranger. overlook and the location, warm welcome’s

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Nkr1450; HO

10am-5pm Tue- 10am-5pm E UTIQU O h B Syltegata;

(salt-cod) the star of May-Sep, May-Sep, restaurant cafe- h

One of Norway’s most One of Norway’s www.baer.no; Alstad; per person Alstad;

S bacalao This artisan onproducer jam www.fjellro.no;

) W About 6km up the Åndalsnes

At cheerful ‘Mountain Peace’, just Peace’, At cheerful ‘Mountain Sleeping Eating &

Shopping Hotel Landscape Juvet May-Sep) 70 25 75 13; 25 75 70 Breakfasts and evening meals (Nkr500 Mar-Sep; h % 7 Safteri Valldal (Syltetøysbutikken; shorter & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pm Sat Fri, year) of rest hours church, the road behind and east of Valldal’s munal table in the rustic, reimagined barn, reindeer, with local produce such as venison, wild salmon or pastriesand Breads bymade are show. the to ensure that Note an elderly neighbour. casual visits are not allowed. guests’ privacy, Jordbærstova ( honours Jordbærstova road from Valldal, Stop in for strawberry. mighty the valley’s a spongea slice of their strawberry cake, cream and strawberrywith strawberries, butsound prosaic enough, may that purée of rapture. into a state could just send you TheyNorwegian buffets traditional do also lunch. at weekends. At the rear is a tranquil garden At the rear is a tranquil weekends. for children. with a small playground o (www.juvet.com; h com hideaway remote this hotels, exclusive contemporary architecture withbines brave it seems mytholog so compelling a setting luxury, of notions traditional Forget ical. cabin, with the reinvented have instead you sublimely simple interiors of dark wood. Theseallow the landscape outside to glow cin winter white through green or summer eclipsing all floor to ceiling windows, ematic else. com long a around place take person) per down the Valldøla River or gentler stand or gentler River Valldøla the down This (Nkr590). up paddleboarding outfit’s headquarters the tourist is 200m from of of and a variety hire kayak offers also It fice. outdoor activitiesother such as wilderness ski trips. moonlight in winter, camping and, 4 Turisthotell Fjellro ( Nkr785/1180; breakfast 7-10pm) is the welcome church, near Valldal’s a There’s cared for. warm and rooms nicely inspecialises that too, here, cafe-restaurant open at and a pub on the ground floor, fish, - TS - €€ PUB Sit - ANT ANT SPOR R STAU ER WAT slo–Trond (pancakes), , RE , E CAF svele 10am-9pm Mon-Thu, to Mon-Thu, 10am-9pm , usually on the last idsdal ferry and the the and ferry idsdal E h

agle’s Way), runagle’s Way), twice daily 71 22 16 22; www.visitan E The Grand Hotel Bellevue’s Bellevue’s The Hotel Grand 9am-8pm Jun-Aug, rest of year ombås (Nkr230, hours) 1½ run % From Valldal you can experican you Valldal From ( h rnevegen ( Getting There & Away Information Activities 8 8 from 10pm Sat) 10pm from There are also services to Molde (Nkr145, 1½ oute to Geiranger (Nkr265, three hours), via h Valldal & Around TRAIN BUS 2 Naturopplevingar Valldal (www.valldal.no) rush (Nkr790)ence a four-hour white-water cherries thrive and you’llcherries thrive strawberries find in an annualin profusion, commemorated Strawberry Festival in July. weekend journey from Geiranger. Perched in a nick Perched journey from Geiranger. its agricultural surroundsof Norddalsfjord, northernmost to being Europe’s claim lay apples, pears and even orchards. Here tend to pass travellers that is a place Valldal to or from the famousthrough, on the way pass or after the blissful ferry Trollstigen daily with the express bus service to Ålesund Molde. via Trains to/from D O with synchronisation in twice daily heim trains. Trains connect in Åndalsnes twice steep Ø mid-August. and between mid-June hours, up to eight daily) and Ålesund (Nkr295, 2¼ hours, four times daily). Buses along the spectacular National Tourist R Linge– the Trollstigen, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) At Åndalsnes train station. station. Åndalsnes train At Mon-Fri) 9am-3pm They rent bikes (hour/day Nkr60/185). 8 8 office Tourist dalsnes.com; cellar bar, backlit in startlingly pink citified cellar bar, the town meetsand lime green, is where on dance and nights to drink, chat Saturday until late. old Norwegian favourites: old Norwegian favourites: pizza and burgers. Kjellar’n ( 11pm Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun mid-May–Aug) noon-9pm & Sat, 11pm Fri enjoy and edge jetty’s the relax at back and in this panorama pretty and one a drink The place. in thosewelcoming menu takes Kaikanten Nkr150-225; (mains

------UM WPOINT E MUS VIE adult/child Nkr100/50; adult/child

). TheNorwegian Fjord Centre 238 still to the towering, cling near-sheer Sights You’ll be overawed for another reason ifreason another for overawed be You’ll coming or go you’re And whichever way If you arrive from Hellesylt, Geiranger from Hellesylt, arrive If you 10am-6pm) POP 250 rock Flydalsjuvet, usually with a figure gaz rock Flydalsjuvet, usually with a figure in Geirangerfjord. a cruise ship ing down at Thesignpostedpark, car about Flydalsjuvet, 5km uphill from Geiranger on the Stryn view a great of the fjord and the road, offers 1 Fjordsenter Norsk (www.verdsarvfjord.no; h has tools, artefacts and even whole build brought been uprooted and have ings that the essential themes – thehere, illustrating the building of ear mail packet, avalanches, have ly roads and the rise of tourism – that located shaped the land and its people. It’s up the hill along the Rv63, just past the Ho (p tel Union Flydalsjuvet classic photo,Somewhere seen that you’ve the overhanging of brochures, of beloved system as you mingle with the waves of the waves mingle with system as you year by bus and ship. Every those delivered presence of overGeiranger wilts under the than 150 cruise600,000 visitors and more ships. drop from the northyou down the Ørneve super as the final, Way, the Eagle’s gen, spectacular 7km of the Rv63 from Åndalsnes is called. As down the almost sheer it twists aslope in 11 hairpin bends, each one gives yet glimpse along the nar more impressive row fjord. ing, once the last cruise ship and tour bus returns pulls out, serenity to thisof the day port.tiny Geiranger most farms, aban long cliffside Scattered doned, walls of twisting, 20km-long emerald-green Heritage World Geirangerfjord, Unesco a – the Seven Sisters, the Suit Site. Waterfalls and and more – sluice the Bridal Veil or, tumble. The one-hour scenic ferry trip along and Hellesylt Geiranger between its length trans mini-cruise as means of is as much port no particular it even if you’ve – take reason to get to the other end. the at location its fabulous despite village, theto shock a as comes fjord, the of head - UM noon- E MUS h

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adult/children Nkr100/60; adult/children

Gudbrandsjuvet tourist office

Sights Getting There & Away Information 8 8

qually scenic is the spectacular ferry It’s also worthalso thatroad the taking It’s E the stresses this 96m-high structure has to tolerate. drops to the crumbling bridge at the dam’s the dam’s at drops to the crumbling bridge rangeclose at feel you where base, narrow reservoir; after it passes through a bizarre corkscrew a couple of kilometres tunnel, higher up there is a short route that walking climbs from the village up to the Zakarias up climbs from the village tube slide and indoor climbing wall make ittube slide and indoor climbing wall make extra fun for kids. detail the advent of hydroelectric power indetail power of hydroelectric the advent A long avalanches. rock slides and the valley, 5pm mid-Jun–early Aug) 5pm mid-Jun–early now-defunct,exhibitions station, power (Kraft og skredsenter; (Kraft net/museum; 1 Museum Station Power Tafjord Fjørra and Tafjord. Fjørra hillside. It crashed into Korsnæsfjord and into Korsnæsfjord crashed hillside. It washed that a 64m-high tidal wave created inup to 700m inland and claimed 40 lives high and 22m long – in all, a whopping 8whopping a all, in – long 22m and high million cubic metres loose from the – broke Tafjord 1934 an enormous chunk of rock, 400m In Nkr370/190, 2¼ hours) thatruns twice daily between Valldal and Geiranger from mid-June to mid-August. cruise (adult/child single Nkr240/130, return from Valldal, where the river sluices and thrash es through a 5m-wide, 20m-deep canyon. spectacular Trollstigen pass. I at pause that runs twice daily from mid-June to August between Åndalsnes (Nkr125, hours) 1¾ and Geiranger (Nkr85, hours), 1¼ up and over the Valldal lies on the ‘Golden R hour/day). 8 rents bikes (Nkr25/100 per and hour/day) can also arrange motor-boat hire (Nkr85/400 per visitalesund-geiranger.com; visitalesund-geiranger.com; Jun–mid-Aug, rest of year 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Valldal’s Valldal’s from local farmers. from local 8 pressed and simmered in the small factory in the and simmered pressed in the mainand sourced the shop behind has a huge selection a huge has juices, and jams of

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70 26 30 68; 30 26 70 31 20; 26 70 47 37 97 71; 97 37 47 27; 75 95 10 A popular longer trek begins with a ride begins with trek longer A popular % % % % site Nkr160; site short walk from the ferry terminal, Gei Camping is sliced through by aranger fast-flowing torrent. Though short on shade pleasant and handy for an early morning it’s ferry getaway. tion with well-maintained facilities and par tion with well-maintained cabins. Good well-decorated ticularly pretty, are available. rates longer-stay Hytteutleige Grande og Camping ( bath with outdoor 4-bed cabins Nkr220, campsites Nkr980; from with bathroom Nkr430, room Oct; bestthe for fields northernmost two its of views also hires out sea kay It up the fjord. a boat and can arrange gear aks and fishing taxi to the fjord farms, accessible only by sea or on foot. Camping Geiranger ( ( Gågata; equipment Nkr450/225) (1038m), from up to Djupvasshytta you scenical gentle, can coast for 17 where you ly splendid kilometres down to the by bike also rents hours. It fjord; allow a couple of per hour/day). (Nkr50/200 bikes 4 are often out by package booked Hotels tours months in advance. Feriesenter Geirangerfjorden ( Nkr850; from cabins Nkr260, campsites Apr–mid-Sep; photographed photographed of between walks for 18 signed ideas gives and 5km. 1.5km Fjordservice Geiranger on the sightseeing A steep 45-minuteboat. from the ascent to Skageflå, you brings Skagehola at landing You perched hillside farm. a precariously stepscan retrace the landing, to your where stops request; (on the boat tell the crew on stretch your To out or just wave). the way and the mountain over legs more, continue and return via Preikestolen to Geiranger Homlung. Cycling Adventure Geiranger - - - - AT O sea B

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Dalsnibba lookout Dalsnibba Activities 70 26 30 07; 26 70 91 11 80 62; These include daily kayaking-with- For that, you’ll that, 150m about drop to have For % % and life’s altogether quieter. All aroundAll altogether quieter. life’s and hikingsigned great are there Geiranger routes to abandoned farmsteads, waterfalls aerial- and vista points. The tourist office’s er, 15-seater scuds (Nkr390/190) that boat er, deeper and fasterfjord. into the Hiking from the seethingGet ferry away terminal tours (adult/child Nkr 110/45, sailing four Nkr 110/45, tours (adult/child kiosk is to August). Its times daily June From within the Geiranger tourist office. small a August,to operates also it mid-June Boat Tours Fjordservice Geiranger ( 1½-hour sightseeing boat offers operation hiking trips, lasting five to six hours. Ashiking trips, lasting his five these are ‘the with pride, says flyer publicity have in Geiranger that only trips available impact’. no environmental walk. He rents sea-kayaks and does dailyand does sea-kayaks rents He walk. hiking and canoeing trips to four of the fin est around the fjord. destinations ferry terminal), this much recommended Bendiksen, a is run by Jonathan company Territories Canadian from the Northwest almost before he couldwho learnt to kayak Geiranger Camping (a short walk from the Odyssey Coastal ( Nkr150/450/800, per hr/half-day/day kayaks Nkr800-1250) trips kayaking-hiking June and mid-August. June 2 KayakingSea (Nkr85 per car) that climbs from the Rv63(Nkr85 per car) that to the returnNkr180/90) runs three (adult/child mid- between times daily from Geiranger Dalsnibba the highest most and perhaps stunning For stunning viewsof the many of the Geirang toll road the 5km er valley and fjord, take down gingerly and with the utmost care todown gingerly about 50m further the overhang along, or walking advise care when we selfie, a if it’s backwards. down the hill, then descend a slippery descend a the hill, then down and in indistinctYour to the edge. rather track to scramble subjecttrepid photo have will green river valley, but doesn’t provide the provide doesn’t but valley, river green postcardview last down to the detail. - - - - - €€ A - E CAF E OLAT lunch ANT ANT 10am-

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% ( 9am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep) Located Located 9am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep) (pancakes). It’s fully licensed and open fully licensed and It’s (pancakes). Getting There & Away Information Shopping 8 8 Sjokolade Geiranger h 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun Jun-Aug, Jun-Aug, Sun 10am from 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 70 26 13 06; 13 26 70 Out of season, if the shop’s closed, pop closed, Out of season, if the shop’s It’s the perfect summer evening spot to It’s h % BOAT 8 The popular, hugely recommended runbe tween Geiranger and H Nkr320, adult/child single Nkr160/79, return Nkr215/115; one hour) is quite the most spec 8.30pm May-Sep, Nov & D Nov May-Sep, 8.30pm far as the dock can reach as scented trail as he handcrafts his wares in a basement nose and your Follow of an old boathouse. pick up a selection in of his inspired work, with brown cheese flavoured cluding truffles instantfor go or cloudberry, with filled or in the form of ice cream or hot gratification chocolate. downstairs and knock. 8 office Tourist no; pier. the beside right Skysstasjon Geiranger ( year) of rest hours shorter black- lovely this benches at and footpath the look over stained shopfront Swiss-style port out of the nicely action you keep but cappucci thick of it. The great cafe makes and deli coffee, Jacu nos, using Ålesund’s cious homemade svele some evenings quiz nights and tapas – for ask for upcoming dates. 7 o (geirangersjokolade.no; cafe with great carrot cake (Nkr45), all day (Nkr45), cake carrot great with cafe coffee. and good snacks Posten Brasserie ( Nkr168-228; dinner Nkr99-124, steaks, fish of salads, burgers, simple menu the norm by aabove elevated and pizza is chef local Heel sources his who passionate dairysylt, organice Røros and makes from the most The herbs and vegetables. of fresh atmos interior is bright and modern Scando wins. terrace pheric, but the fjord-side of local cured and meats enjoy their platters Slogenof glass a and (Nkr189) fish smoked pale ale.

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Occupying Geiranger’s old general Occupying Geiranger’s Gard Westerås 70 26 32 30; 32 26 70 70 26 83 00; 83 26 70 70 26 96 60; 26 70 93 26 44 97; 26 93 Their (Nkr530) gargantuan dinner buffet From the farm you can do a 45-minutefarm you the From % % % % and house-smoked goat; all fish and meat all fish goat; and house-smoked are local. Downstairs is a colourful, casual range of international-style dishes and goodand dishes international-style of range poached salmon rouladelocal standards like Nkr120-135; 6pm) upstairs does a restaurant store, the pretty Olebuda & Cafe Olé Olebuda & Cafe ( a local, seasonal multicourse à la carte menu (one to eight courses Nkr325-815). 5 is good, and available even if you’re not stay even if you’re and available is good, ing. The hotel’s are nothing special. Nkr350). Public areas have the air of luxury areas have Nkr350). Public best, but rooms expect the town’s at you’d complex a couple of includes a spa with that access for non-guests(day and sauna pools spectacularly situated Union is high onspectacularly Union situated a long history, got town. It’s the hill above modern the form of a large takes but today ( 1600/2200; Hotel Union Hotel over a century later. Rooms, however, are Rooms, however, a centuryover later. more prosaic. small and a little Geiranger (take Rv63, direction Rv63, (take Geiranger theGrotli), constructedfamily-owned Utsikten, in 1893, still has stunning views town and fjord over King Rama V of Siam when he stayed dur he stayed King Rama V of Siam when on the hill above High tour. ing his grand ‘A temple to lift spirits’ – so observed your ‘A utsikten; Utsikten Hotel ( Hole Bru, where you’llHole see the sign for the farm road. with many other lovely routes. Around 3km routes. Around lovely other with many you’ll reach from the centre of Geiranger, walk to the Storsæterfossen waterfall, along taurant, where Arnfinn and Iris serve dishes and Iris Arnfinn where taurant, own produce. made with their ments, or there are five pine-clad cabins. are five ments, or there The to a res to 1603, is home dating barn, narrow road dizzingly high above the bus the dizzingly high above narrow road farmhouse apart the two in one of tle. Stay beautiful old working farm, 4km along the farm, 4km old working beautiful end of a the sits at towards Grotli, Rv63 o ( Nkr1150; apt Nkr950, cabins

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Getting There Away & 8 Norangdal Villa 70 26 10 84; 10 26 70 This enchanting ‘mountainpolitan style’ This style’ ‘mountainpolitan enchanting Downstairs, the traditionally decorated, at decorated, Downstairs, the traditionally Beside the road about 2km south of Øye, The boulder-strewn scenery unfolds of plenty and climbers will find Hikers ) % n summer, some ferries from Geiranger connect mospheric lounge has a log fire, there’s a spec there’s fire, has a log mospheric lounge tacular dining room and an outdoor jacuzzi. Thethe door freeride skiing from outside andis excellent and in summer kayayking climbing oppurtunities hand. It’s are close at a magical place, in a fairytale location. W guests in 1885. Thehotel began welcoming a descendent of the hotel’s current owner, after it in 2007, restoration began founder, for decades. Six rooms are abandoned lay 20th-century to a different each an homage designdecade, utilising iconic Scandinavian pieces, including Norwegian by Nora gems and GreteGulbrandsen Prytz Kittelsen. (1586m), a long,tough haul from Urke. an a monument to one CW Patchell, there’s who lostmountaineer English his heart to the valley. o ( of Øye. farm ruined peaks, snowy towering among In steads and haunting mountain lakes. partupper the Urasætra, valleythe of at ruinsthe are lake, mountain dark a beside on, stone of several crofters’ huts. Further of one-time can still see the foundations you the surfacefarmhouses beneath of the pea- Langstøylvatnet,green lake 1908 in created down the slopeswhen a rock slide crashed of Keipen. peaks of the adja scope in the dramatic cent Sunnmørsalpane, including the lung- ascent of Slogensearingly steep scrambling Rånasuperb the and from Øye (1564m) this site is more than compensated for byfor compensated than more is site this to the and proximity location its fjord-side ferry pier. 8 I with buses to/from Stryn (Nkr115, one hour) and hours). 2¾ (Nkr195, Ålesund Norangsdalen is one of the most inspiringNorangsdalen of the northern crannies yet little-visited fjords. This hidden valley glorious connects with the Leknes–Sæbø ferryHellesylt on via the villagethe scenic Hjørundfjorden,

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90 20 68 85; 90 20 70 26 51 28; 26 70 The From mid-April to mid- Almost as scenic is the ferry that runs twice % % Hellesylt BUS POP 250 back up the hill. Camping Hellesylt ( Nk190; campsites HI-affiliated hostel perches on the hillside HI-affiliated ain but flash, not It’s Hellesylt. overlooking askbus, by arriving you’re If spot. beautiful a long slog to save off to drop you the driver Vandrerhjem Hellesylt ( d Nkr390/640, bathroom with shared s/d Nkr260, Nkr750; bathroom with (three daily in English). There’s an attached an attached (three daily in English). There’s cafeteriaoverlook windows big lovely with ing the fjord. 4 only-in-the-fjords extravaganza, bas-reliefonly-in-the-fjords extravaganza, carvingswood fashioned by local chippy Gynt legend, the Peer illustrate Oddvin Parr along with a 35-minute show audio-visual 1 Galleriet Gynt Peer Nkr120/60; (adult/child 5pm mid-Jun–Aug) it carries hikers, For cyclists, 1:50,000, and for map at Map Biking Mountain The old Viking port of Hellesylt, throughThe old Viking port of Hellesylt, which a roaring waterfall is alto cascades, if far less breathtaking, than gether calmer, nearby Geiranger.

make the spectacular run over Trollstigen to Åndalsnes (Nkr265, three hours) via Valldal (Nkr85, hours). 1½ For Molde, change buses in Åndalsnes; for Ålesund, change at Linge. Ålesund (departs 9.30am) to Geiranger (departs (departs Geiranger to 9.30am) (departs Ålesund 1.30pm) on its northbound run. From mid-June to mid-August two buses daily child single Nkr240/130, return Nkr370/190, 2¼ hours). A minicruise in itself, it runs from mid- June to mid-August. tigruten coastal ferry makes a detour from ber (every 90 minutes until 6.30pm, June to August). (adult/ Valldal between and Geiranger daily tacular scheduled ferry route in Norway. I four to eight sailings daily from May to Septem

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Jugendstil Senteret Senteret Jugendstil Ticket price also covers entryTicket price also covers to Jugend Ticket price also covers entryTicket price also covers to KUBE, POP 23,000 Ålesund’s celebrated Sunnmøre Museum is Sunnmøre Museum celebrated Ålesund’s the site of at 4km east of the centre. Here, centre, trading the old Borgundkaupangen active from the 11th to 16th centuries, over been relocat buildings have 50 traditional the collection of will savour ed. Ship-lovers including replicasaround 40 historic boats, KUBE and R (Møre 16; tekergata Sep-May) Tue-Sun 11am-4pm Jun-Aug, primary contemporary art space highlights Norwegian artists, as hosting the as well occasional design and architecture focused The building’s old Bank of Norway show. upstairs gallery has a wonderful also view of the harbour. stil Senteret, next door. Museum Sunnmøre (www.sunnmore.museum.no; Nkr80/30; adult/child O noon-4pm Sun May- stilsenteret.no; Nkr75/40; Sun Sep-May) is documentedheritage phar in a former monument listed the first Jugendstil macy, own in Ålesund. Apartfrom the building’s exquisite and almost entirely extant interior, including a sinuous staircase and florid din textiles,include ceramics, displays room, ing Even furniture, posters and other ephemera. aesthete, keen not a a ‘Time Ma if you’re ‘From fun, presenting capsule is great chine’ multime a 14-minute Ashes to Art Nouveau’, dia story of the rebuilding of Ålesund after fire. the great next door. Ålesund largest TheNorway’s base for home fleet,cod-fishing De peninsula. sea-bound fishhook-shaped spite its primary income, this is no source of Norwegianregular port. After devastatinga in curva was rebuilt city in 1904, the fire – art and – style nouveau ceous Jugendstil most complete remains Scandinavia’s today exampleand harmonious the era. of 1 o Nouveau (Art

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Tours Kniven viewpoint Kniven 70 11 44 30; 70 STORDAL and Valldal between travelling If you’re a short do make on the Rv650, Ålesund at Stordal’s stop kyrka; mid-Jun–mid-Aug) 1789 in constructed it was the outside, church, stave an earlier of on the site Inside retained. which were of elements walls roof, the the surprise: comes sumptuously last pillar are and every the Bible and from with scenes painted naive in an engagingly saints of portraits high baroque. of interpretation % faris, including one to Runde, fishing trips fishing faris, including one to Runde, and cruises through Hjørundfjord. They can a Zodiac out in you or yacht, and createtake customised itineries. See them also for bike hire. and kayak glass windows, especially those in the north nauticalaisle with their appropriately theme. T Walk Guided Town Nkr100/free; (adult/child mid-Aug) ture with a knowledgable local, sign on for excellent 1½- to two-hour touristthe office’s guided town walk, which runs daily during the summer. 62° Nord ( a number highly respected offers operation of top-end excursions such as wildlife sa Aksla The 418 stepsto the splen up Aksla hill lead did and islands. Follow surrounding mountains Lihauggata from the pedestrian shopping pass the street Kongensgata, and begin the 15-minute to the top of the puff road to the crest; also a cheat’s hill. There’s east from the centre, then fol Røysegata take low the Fjellstua signposts up the hill. Church Ålesund (Aspegata; parish church has stone in 1909, Ålesund’s a strikinglyevery wide chancel, square inch of the wide sweep in frescos over covered too are the stainedits tunnel arch. Notable

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In summer, a special bus (adult/child bus (adult/child a special summer, In Should your visit coincide with its re with visit coincide your Should million-litre aquarium appeals to everymillion-litre aquarium on area entrance Its oil. processing of cod-liver an old groceryrecreates shop, a delight in itself. The 1861 Holmbua warehouse (one of the The 1861 Holmbua very few to survive buildings the 1904 fire) has exhibitsthe development on of fishing across the centuries and special sections Ole Brude). Fiskerimuseet 10; (Molovegen & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep) noon Sat from Mon-Fri, rebirth and the German occupation during also a collection and of boats WWII. There’s ships, including the across the Atlantic in 1904 by an intrepid Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) noon-4pm Sat Fri, the historylustrates of sealing, fishing, ship ping and industry in the Sunnmøre region, Jugendstil town’s of 1904 and the the fire 9.55am to 3.55pm, Monday to Saturday. 9.55am to 3.55pm, Monday Museum Aalesunds (www.aalesunds.museum.no; 16; gate bunkers and gun batteries). bunkers leaves admission) including Nkr200/100, from beside the town hall hourly from can dangle a line for crabs or feed theor feed crabs can dangle a line for in the touch pool while the enormous fish 4- superb coastalscen one. Thegrounds offer ery (look out for WWII and walking trails aquarium can consume a whole day. Be a whole day. aquarium can consume teem Atlantic’s introduced to the North and the astonishinging undersea world richness of coastal and fjord life. Children no; 11am-4pm Jun-Aug, Sat 10am-4pm 7pm Sun-Fri, Sep-May) Tue-Sun extreme,this 3km from the town centre, way of life of the west Norwegian west of life of the coastalway this thriving community. folk who inhabited Atlanterhavsparken O (Atlantic Museum. Displayed around excavations of excavations around Displayed Museum. documented centre are well the old trading artefacts on site and reproduc discovered depictingtions of medieval illustrations the 613, 618 or 624. 613, 618 stricted– as overlook hours, don’t opening Age visitors oftenmany do – its Medieval of Viking-era ships and a commercial trad a commercial and ships of Viking-era bus Take AD 1000. from around ing vessel - - - -

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Kipervikgata 1; Kipervikgata

Apotekergata 5; Apotekergata Skaregata 1; Skaregata Apotekergata 9B; Apotekergata

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bacalao 70 12 42 53; 70 70 11 45 00; 11 45 70 71 70 70 77; 70 71 70 There pan- are also local specialities like The chunks soup, with its generous fish 5pm-midnight Mon-Sat) % % % Genovese (with pesto and potato) or Spanish pesto and potato) Genovese (with ‘red’ sauce). (with fried cod tongues with scallops and sour platter fish a straight-up cream (Nkr140), (Nkr340) and steaks (Nkr310). his stripes as a ship’s cook and his trawler cook and his trawler his stripes as a ship’s connections means he gets the best seafood an internation along the coast. Dishes have the simple, letting al slant, though all is kept produce shine. Thegreat street-side bar is a wine, as is down place for a glass of great stairs by the fire. Diner XL ( h further greasy diner than this from a trad 1st-floor the overlooking restaurant fish Seductively lit harbour. no doubt about so there’s line the entrance, This quintessential the house speciality. in a variety ly Norwegian dish is offered of 335, pizza Nkr139-189; pizza 335, & Sat) 3am Fri to a va caters and crowd a young attracts pizzas are the riety Wood-fired of moods. in the lounge,real deal and can be ordered din for their more formal table book a or described with keyner menu. All dishes are from provinence, such as veal ingredient’s just out well, Sognefjord from, and fish there. a subtle foam, and scallops, roe and of fish is superb. The kitchen is open until 10pm. Maki ( mains Nkr345) menus Nkr720/850, portside earnt restaurant Brosundet’s Hotel for their weekly seafood buffet and well- buffet seafood weekly their for glasses of wine. chosen Lyspunktet (www.lyspunktet.as; 169; place, join the youthful At this great-value sofa. There on its deep crowd free re are and soft drinks, and the west for coffee fills sandwich is coast and coleslaw pulled pork soup. with its fish along a local favourite, There cafe standards too, international are of Syd as a ‘slice carne, as well chili con like ney’ focaccia. Anno (

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sandwiches Nkr99; sandwiches Apotekergata 9; Apotekergata

Apotekergata 16; Apotekergata 10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 11am-4pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Invit does central Ålesund’s Ålesund’s does central Invit Within Jugendstil Senteret Within Jugendstil

arkgata 18; arkgata www.invit.no; h

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), this stylish, friendly little place of friendly little ), this stylish, Eating Roastery Jacu Coffee

70 15 66 44; 15 70 70 10 49 70; 49 10 70 97 15 89 85; 89 15 97 Attention to detail is not just in the de Attention 8.15am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight Thu, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 8.15am-4.30pm 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) 10am-2pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm 11am-5pm) 240 % % % delight, flavoured with seasonal berries or delight, flavoured in town on a lemons and limes. If you’re in luck – book in Thursday evening, you’re cor, with even the complimentary a water cor, stairs at one of the beautiful big woodenstairs at tables. the nutty, fragrant cakes are homemade. If cakes fragrant the nutty, the streetside bar is full, spread out down Daily changing salads are super fresh and soups are warming and healthy inventive, 10am-4.30pm Sat) 10am-4.30pm lunch spot. and is its most stylish best coffee ads Nkr135, Thu eve seafood buffet Nkr300-450; buffet seafood Thu eve ads Nkr135, h Invit ( wiches, big slices of cakes and fresh coffee and fresh wiches, big slices of cakes and has its own changing art exhibition. h this unpretentious cafe serves sand door, Nomaden ( ads, made from top quality local produceads, made from top quality providore. a Stranda sourced from Matbuda, fers excellent coffee and cake. They and cake. also dofers excellent coffee and sal lunch menu of sandwiches a good Tue-Sun Sep-May) Tue-Sun (p ( Nkr50; around beans, they also host art exhibitions. Apoteker’n fee scene, you can trycan you scene, fee tastingsthe of one and classes. Apartthe best churning out from pastries and lunch sandwiches. If you’re keen pastries and lunch sandwiches. If you’re more about the Norwegian cof to discover modelled industrial space. Drop in for an breakfast filter, espresso or a made-to-order coast’s most highly respected coffee roast most respectedhighly coffee coast’s ery is head-quartered re in this sensitively o (www.jacu.no; h front beside Skansegata. front beside of fresh shrimps procuredof fresh shrimps directly the from harbour along the moor that boats fishing food a highlight. While midrange choices While midrange food a highlight. past a scoop can’t go you aren’t so plentiful, 5 with sea good, dining is top-end Ålesund’s out the day, along with a guest along sauna. day, out the light evening meal and free waffles through eveninglight waffles free and meal

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ctober, to Flybussen nternal nternal O in the fishing urtigruten makes slo to 10 times (up slo (Nkr915, 12½ lighthouse Along the Streets of . For that end-of-the-world that . For Around noon-6pm Jun-Aug) Alnes ts booklet h

(Nkr30) details the town’s architectural architectural town’s the details (Nkr30) Getting Getting There Away & 8 8 n its northbound run, the H xpress buses run to/from Bergen (Nkr686, E O dinburgh and London (Gatwick). I (Gatwick). London and dinburgh Offshore Islands Around BUS AIR BOAT Nkr20/10; of station feeling, climb to the circular via the balcony structure. floors of this all-wood Eachfive Norwegianof artist canvases the displays and Godøy resident Ørnulf Opdahl. buses depart from Skateflukaia ferry terminal and the bus station approximately one hour before the departure of domestic flights. Ålesund in the four offshore can take you With a car, and Godøy Giske Vigra, islands of Valderøy, trip from Ålesund. All offer in a pleasant day excellent short hill or coastal walks. Godøy At the furthest, northern of Godøy, extremity from Ålesund, is island furthestthe offshore picturesquethe 1876 Geiranger, departing at 9.30am. at departing Geiranger, Local buses run to/from Åndalsnes (Nkr295, 2¼ hours, four times daily). 9¼hours, one to three times daily), H (Nkr190, 2¾ hours, up to five daily), Molde (Nkr155, hours, 1½ hourly), O 7½ (Nkr1094, Trondheim hours, twice daily), hours, one to three daily) via Molde (Nkr173, 2¼ hours), and Stryn (Nkr304, 3¾ hours, one to four daily). 8 Ålesund’s airport is on Vigra island, connected to the town by an undersea tunnel. (www.flybussen.no; Nkr115, 20 minutes) airport Sep-May) I Ålesund tour. walking a in highlights 8 Norwegian has direct summertime flights to E destinations include Bergen (three times daily), Trondheim (twice daily) and O daily). An express boat speeds down the coast daily to Måloy (3¾ hours). a popular detour, mid-April to mid-

- - - - S S R R BA BA GLASS RE WA E ANTIQU RE GLASSWA HOME You’ll find You’ll 11am-4.25pm 11am-4.25pm Molovegen 6b; Molovegen

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Kaiser Wilhelmsgata 52; Wilhelmsgata Kaiser

Thu 3pm-1am, Fri & Sat & Sat Fri Thu 3pm-1am, This wonderful hotch 6pm-2am Tue-Thu, 3pm-3am Tue-Thu, 6pm-2am Tue- 70 15 76 00; www. h A laid-back bar with a steep Apotekergata 9; Apotekergata

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Shopping 8 70 12 01 00; 12 01 70 70 15 66 44; 66 15 70 8.30am-6pm 9am-4pm Jun-Aug, Mon-Fri 10am-4pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Thu) Tue-Sat, 10am-4pm 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) 10am-5pm % % 8 Tourist 1; Skaregata visitalesund-geiranger.com; h studio,is designed to be where each piece yetstylish functional. The the front, kiln is at the rear. the shop at Celsius (www.celsius-glass.com; h of this small glass is the motto everyday use’ everythingpracticalfrom bowlsand glasses with spiky chickens multicoloured to quirky, cockscombs. (www.ingridsglassverksted.no; 7 Interior Invit Fri, noon-3am Sat) noon-3am Fri, bands sometimesrear garden; live use its 28 beers on tap, There’s roof as a stage. flat and there are and fun, is young the crowd cold outside. cosy spots if it’s h as well as things that defy description. The as things that as well bar too is an eccentric delight. coffee Ingrids Glassverksted Though there are few bargains, there’s an Though there are few bargains, there’s amazing stockcuriosities, of nautical tradi tional Norwegian crafts, mid-century cer best known designers maics from Norway’s Trankokeriet Antikk Trankokeriet ( h dream. potch antique shop is a collector’s Tue-Sat) forward the very this shop displays town, modern furniture and Scan best of creative and home appliances. kitchenware dinavian ( delivery depot. Piano 1b; (Kipervikgata known to neck a glass of the white stuff, stuff, a glass of the white known to neck cocktails beer on tap and wines, good it’s the name comes the locals here; draw that as a milk former role from the building’s Milk 1B; (Skateflua 2.30am) to and open is right on the water bar that Norwegians While grown indeed are late. 6

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(adult/child Nkr80/free; Nkr80/free; (adult/child

adult/child Nkr80/50; adult/child

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% % % Nkr1195/1445; sail. silver a huge out into the sound like verybut corporate undeniably pleasant; It’s restaurants onsite to choose from. restaurants Hotel Seilet Rica ( Kviltorp Camping Kviltorp ( 142; trandveien Nkr950-1020) with shower 4-bed cabins Nkr620, This fjord-side campsite occupies a poten of the airport the end tially noisy spot at very little fortunately but there’s runway, and sweetly Cabins are bright traffic. air Bus 214 year-round. furnished and available and the Flybussen pass right by. Molde Fjordstuer ( 6; solid forms the squat, Fjordstuer replicates modernin a fisherfolk cottages of typical fjord business hotel. Superior rooms have views seafood There and balconies. are two oil factory, cottages and fishermen’s shacks, and fishermen’s cottages oil factory, and collection schoolroom bringtiny of boats cultures coastalthe life to fishing thearound from the mid-19thmouth of Romsdalsfjorden century During opening hours, the onwards. runs return Nkr100/free) (adult/child boat 11am and 5pm; between hourly from Molde buy tickets from the tourist office. 4 has a number of private The tourist office homes on its books, mostwith self-catering facilities and costing from Nkr500 per per Jazz International son. During the Molde temporary a large campsite, there’s Festival, of the centre. 3km west Jazzcampen, um, shiftedum, Romsdal the around from here and store barns, farms Among the region. short a street town typical of there’s houses, reconstructed and a small houses chapel rescued with adornments from abandoned churches. After around the ample rambling a break in grounds, take functionshouse that as a summertime cafe. there are very worthwhile summer, In ed tours 6pm Jun–mid-Aug) Fiskerimuseet (Hertøya; Aug) Jun–early small island of Hjertøya, is a 10-minute boat cod- terminal. Its Torget ride from Molde’s

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(1:50,000), the best urtigruten coastal ferry ferry coastal urtigruten 71 20 10 00; www.visitmolde. Årø airport 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, % h ( Moldejazz Molde Fraena Molde pulls in up to 100,000 fans and a fans 100,000 pulls in up to For this year’s events, see the see events, this year’s For The town parties all the way from from all the way parties The town it out in Perspiration jazz belts Trad Getting There & Away Information 8 8 doors near the Romsdalsmuseet and the Romsdalsmuseet near doors supporting events, of plenty are there from parade, including a daily street the Rådhus. of in front noon onwards website. MOLDEJAZZ July, Every no) The line-up is pri of jazz greats. host few though every marily Scandinavian liners top international includes years Bobby Rollins, Sonny of along the lines and Herbie Hancock. McFerrin con 100 Of over Saturday. to Monday while free, are one-third a good certs, at priced reasonably very are big events Nkr600. Nkr50 to out perform big draws while the Hall, xpress ferries also operate from Molde. The nland buses run hourly to and from Kristian BOAT BUS AIR up to six planes daily to/from O Norwegian; Widerøe has frequent daily fligths to Bergen and a couple a day to Kristiansund and Trondheim. H the Northbound, leaves at 10pm (6.30pm mid-September to mid-April); southbound, it leaves at 9.30pm. E express-ferry terminal is on Torget, the main square. I sund (Nkr195, hours). 1½ Much more attractive and scarcely longer is the coastal run that rolls Atlanterhavsveien. the along 8 office Tourist com; Torget 4; Sat, noon-5pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, rest of year 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) I square near the express ferry terminal, this office is super well stocked and friendly. Ask for the Nkr95 hiking map of the area. 8 shoreside Molde’s is 5km east of the city centre. Local bus 701 (Nkr35, 10 minutes) from Molde’s bus terminal passes by the airport at least hourly. There are ------€ €

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Beautiful local produce like halibut and halibut Beautiful local produce like 71 20 30 00; 71 20 71 20 37 50; 37 71 20 71 20 37 75; 37 71 20 93 09 13 33; 09 13 93 % % % % panorama. Wines – reds mainly from Ita from mainly – reds Wines panorama. their perfect – have whites from France ly, platters accompaniment in the proscuitto (Nkr125). Mon-Sat) the the night but Norwegian for ‘south’, this wine bar faces. Looking way out over an inspirational offers the fjord, its terrace ner choices such as fillet of lamb in a red-wine vegetables. sauce with ginger-glazed Syd (www.motsyd.no; 319, bistro mains Nkr129-199) mains bistro 319, and panelled wood is all attractive restaurant and has a bistro menu of pas bare brickwork tas, salads and sandwiches and tempting din you’ve had your fill of seafood on the coast of seafood it fill had your you’ve beefhas good and reindeer too. Vertshuset ( (www.xn-grvell-bya.no; 315) turns up on the menu at from Averøya crab most though if elegant restaurant, Molde’s and welcoming cafe with a huge range of range huge a with cafe welcoming and buns and cakes. sandwiches, pizza slices, filled Gorvell and offer water views. water and offer 5 Rød turally less exciting than Molde’s waterside less exciting than Molde’s turally Fjordstuer Seilet and here hotels, the decor a balconyis pleasing, and most rooms have & salads Nkr90-110; salads & bonara. Note that it’s open until 3am right it’s that Note bonara. through Moldejazz. Godt Fole ( expect good value meals all day and someexpectall day meals value good on. Daily spe fun as the night wears rowdy fed, the kids well aim to keep cials (Nkr145) with reindeer stew car be that or a spaghetti ( mains Nkr139-189; 139, Sun) 1-9pm & Sat, 2am Fri student main accommodation, of the town’s ( Nkr1280/1440; at the waterside lobby bar or lots of cloud bar or lots lobby the waterside at from the 15thand sea floor skybar. Quality Alexandra Hotel rooms have large picture large and mag windows have rooms watching of boat lots views. nificent There’s ------CH €€

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95 86 44 25; 71 26 11 11; 71 26 % % 5 i Bud Bryggjen armaments and a network of bunkers and bunkers of a network and armaments quarterssoldiers’ the around are dispersed and store deep sunk bay the sick hill with the mountain. inside Smokehouse Draagen ( caught where freshly set operation, up this with pure local are smoked salmon Aukra after and herbs, wood tiring of the poor one of only a industrial product.quality It’s fewleft salm in Norway and the resulting ‘smakup the elusive have on does indeed quality. – a melt-in-your-mouth plevelse’ and sample process, the see to here Come buy. tury, though it was rebuilt in the 17th. tury, Inside 300-year-old ship and un are a large votive 15th-centuryusual Vir the with altarpiece, to Catholic prominently, figuring gin Mary such altarpieces weremany core. While the the time of the Reformation, at destroyed Averøy has all the silence and wild beauty has all Averøy islands, but the offshore of one of Norway’s connectiontunnel a of advantage definite along with directto Kristiansund access to those the excellent Atlantic Ocean Road. For road-tripping along the coast, or here to ex perience the Atlantic Ocean Road, its rocky far more atmos a make villages sea-swept Thepheric base than Kristiansund. accom either offer options mentioned modation nightly meals or are self-catering. 1 Church Stave Kvernes Kvernes; (Fv247, late-Jun–mid-Aug) 5pm 14thearly the from dates church stave cen ( 180; of rest & Sat noon-8pm Fri noon-6pm Mon-Thu, year) if they weep ‘People ple from miles around. lady in the said the it closed,’ and find arrive justvisitors centre, with perhaps a touch of Theyexaggeration. coastalfor come comfort ball, varieties fish of two soup, fish food: (Nor klipfish and, of course salted coalfish, klipfish-drying largest sheds are just way’s up the road). Averøy - - - - T - FOR 10am- scurry h

could v64, the Tussen Gossen Krigsminne Gossen Serving as a WWII museum adult/child Nkr80/35; adult/child

8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri Jul–mid- Mon-Fri 8.30am-3.30pm h (

Sights , a former Nazi wartime airstrip, a former Nazi built

egular buses run to/fromÅlesund (Nkr162, Bus 352 travels regularly between Molde Molde regularly between travels Bus 352 From Molde, you can visit Ona by public you Molde, From rgan Kystfort; rgan R CAR & MOTORCYCLE was erected by Nazi forces in 1940. Various forces in 1940. Various was erected by Nazi 6pm Jun-late Aug) 6pm Jun-late and memorial, this defensive fortification Fort Coastal Ergan (E 1 and Bud (one hour; four to seven times dai except Sunday). ly, Trondheim. 16th and 17th centuries Bud was the great and Bergen centre between est trading village of Bud, huddled around its compact of Bud, huddled around village to believe, but in the difficult It’s harbour. The Rv664 coastal route between Molde The Rv664 coastal Molde route between to a scenic alternative is and Kristiansund fishing the faster the little E89. En route lies Bud on the island) and hop on the ferry there. Molde at 6.35pm. If you have wheels, leave wheels, leave 6.35pm. at have If you Molde an encumbrance (it’s in Småge vehicle your around and leave by the noon ferry. Better Better by the noon ferry. around and leave the 3.35pmto take from Ona, then boat reach to linking bus in Småge the 5.10pm which stops at three islands en route and which stops at You 11.10am. Ona at docks at to the ferry point at Småge. From here, to the ferry From Småge. point at the 9.35am trip by a gorgeous ferry, it’s transport in a day. Take the 8am bus 561 Take transport in a day. sen. The summer-house village abandoned a brief stop.of Bjørnsund also warrants Aug) on the low island of Gos POWs by Russian want to stop off at at want to stop off samling lighthouse, is still home to an offshore lighthouse, is still home to an offshore a popular day makes It community. fishing may buffs En route, WWII trip from Molde. The islet beautiful outer of Ona, with its landscapes and picturesque bare rocky Ona Around Molde Travelling northwards on the R tunnelen shortcut avoids a dog’s leg and lops a good 15 minutes off travel time. 2¼ hours, hourly) and Åndalsnes (Nkr148, 1½ hours, up to eight daily).

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Gomalandet;

Lossiusgården This museum, in the 1749 This 1749 the in museum, Dødeladen Café in the traditional way. From the From way. in the traditional , Kristiansund’s old town lives on in old town lives , Kristiansund’s Sights Just north of this museum are two oth north two are museum this of Just Kristiansund also plays a significant role a significant also plays Kristiansund three islands; itsThe over town ranges If you don’t have any luck out there, it’s it’s there, luck out any have don’t If you klippfisk Kristiansund POP 24,135 of ferry the Sundbåt town centre, take ask and to be dropped off. er classic buildings, both normally closed to the public: Hjelkrembrygga, a former its eastern end, was the distinguished home of an 18th-century merchant. The venerable 300-year-old can still get a meal and a drink, hosts cul a 20-minute and musical events. It’s tural but thebridge, across the Heinsgata walk here is on the of getting most enjoyable way ferrystubby Sundbåt from Piren ferry port. Klippfiskmuseum Norsk (www.nordmore.museum.no; Nkr70/free; tour guided incl child Aug) Jun-early late Milnbrygga warehouse on Gomalandet pen insula, presents the 300-year history of the dried-cod export industry in Kristiansund. continues to produce modest quantitiesIt in servicing Norway’s North Sea oilfields, in servicing Norway’s restautantswith its hotels, bars and cater workeroil (with workers oil off-duty to ing to spend). wages duringport bombed heavily and centre was archi of little with replaced were and WWII tectural note. 1 sights hug the port or are in its gridMost of streets centre. in the postwar Byen a part with clap of the island of Innlandet, back to the 17th date board buildings that The grandiose century. possible to buy fresh fish to cook at your at to cook fish to buy fresh possible own cabin. The and drying historic cod-fishing town stilllooks below the sea of Kristiansund are the waters though Even for its wealth. of hauls – the huge so bountiful no longer yesteryear source of tales as tall are now the remains im – cod-processing angler’s as any portant. amount of the world’s A significant is curedklipfish town, in and around the and chaotic, unkempt while Mellemværftet, boatyard. hangs on as a working ------€ d

€€€ €€€ DIVING L TEL Seivåg NS INS CAB

NS INS CAB , Håholmen; C HO ORIC warehouse E US

HIST campsite Nkr190, Nkr190, campsite HO ST

This enchanting E GU klippfisk guided dives per person per person guided dives Lie in bed and watch Lie in bed and watch Ekkilsøy; )

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www.haholmen.no;

This dive outfit offers easy offers This outfit dive late-Jun–mid-Aug) h

The coastal cabins here have nice The coastal cabins here have d Nkr1450;

Sleeping Sveggvika 40 01 81 92; 40 01 71 51 72 50; 71 51 72 Ytterbrugga, its restaurant, servesrestaurant, its theYtterbrugga, is on the island of Geitøya, on the Parking % % this converted 1920sthis converted the reflection clouds track pink of tiny bay the of still across the water way their or experience a ferocious North Sea storm if simple, rooms in in – the stylish, sweep organise deep-sea trips, or you can hire aorganise deep-sea trips, or you and sling your with or without motor, boat, with skipper own line (from Nkr480 per day, Nkr2300 for three hours). ocean views, along with cute porches to enjoy it from, or there are simple rooms The warehouse. in a former fish owners, fisherfolk,commercial former themselves Bryggecamping Skjerneset (www.skjerneset.com; cottage 4-bed Nkr450, cabins 2-bed fishermens Nkr820) Atlanterhavsveien, from where a motor boat Atlanterhavsveien, leaves It sea journey. the five-minute makes between the roadside car park on the hour, 11am and 9pm, or by appointment. rustic than others, with exposed timber, but rusticwith exposedthan others, timber, all are charming. freshest of fish. on its own islet just off Averøy. Rooms here Averøy. on its own islet just off are 18th- and 19th-century mostly cottages, for doubles, though there are a couple of multi-bedroomed ones too. Some are more Håholmen Havstuer ( Nkr1900; ‘hotel’ is in fact village a small former fishing make you feel part you of the coastalmake landscape Breakfast and din the weather. whatever ners are excellent too. 4 o ( neset; They have the full range of rental equip of rental the full range They have courses and accomo PADI ment and offer packages. dation Resort Dive Sveggvika (www.sveggvika.com; Nkr250) from coral along with the rich access to wrecks this part life of and fish coast. of the west luck: the church narrowly escaped demoli narrowly escaped church luck: the it was erect one beside the larger tion when ed in 1893. this one luckily survived, one luckily this stylised a although More in 1695. added was surround Lutheran

------€ € € €€ €€€ APHY L TEL IC MUS AN GIAN L TEL L TEL NS INS CAB OGR , MO , WE HO s/d from from s/d T HO Part of Part h UND

NOR Fiskergaten Fiskergaten alaveien 22; alaveien PHO

Out along Da mains Nkr115-189; PGRO CAM

Located on out ) Storgata 41; Storgata

Recently overhauled, A late-June week-long late-June A ) pW

Innlandet; www.havfiske-kristiansund.no; This hostel and camp

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www.atlanten.no;

www.thonhotels.com; piW

www.rica.no;

pW Large fine-art photography festi Large fine-art photography

Eating Sleeping s/d Nkr895/1395; s/d 71 57 30 00; 30 71 57 71 67 30 25; 71 67 71 57 12 00; 12 71 57 71 67 11 04; 11 71 67

noon-11pm Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) 2am Fri to Tue-Thu, noon-11pm % % % % including a sauna. It regularly books out and regularly including a sauna. It its public areas are often hectic. 5 Café Dødeladen (www.dodeladen.no; h Kristiansund Thon Hotel ( 12; 20-minutegood this hotel is a Innlandet, be well could but that centre, to the walk a bonus. The1915 converted rooms in the usual warehouse combine this chain’s clean, modern lines with historic beams harbour a great and big windows. There’s to the dining room attached side terrace are fantastic.and the views back to the city Kristiansund Hotel Rica ( Nkr1300/1750; overlookrooms that fjord-side Rica has the standardcomforts, chain and your the water Nkr595/795; ground is an easy 20-minute walk from the and the motel has a friendly place, centre. It’s the rooms in kitchen, TVs a well-equipped for sporting lounge and a big screen in the recently beenevents. facilities have Camping apart and the furnished fully renovated deal for small groups. ments are a great Bergan Dala these cabins are only a 10-minutelaveien, awalk from the centre, although they have bathrooms, All have rustic seaside location. Bed platforms. sunbathing sweetly, and, TVs linen can be hired. Festivalen Tahiti (www.tahiti-festivalen.no) held on Innlandet. festival music Light Nordic Festival Photo (www.nle.no) big names and up to 70,000 attracts that val exhibitionsto its invisitors and workshops, September. 4 Camping Atlanten & Motell ( bath with outdoor 4-bed cabins Nkr170, campsites s/d motel Nkr995, with bathroom Nkr595, room ( Nkr600/1200) 2-/12-bed cabins

------CH E US ARD IC MUS ). It’s It’s ). CENTRE CHUR A HO A SHIPY 251 adult/child adult/child OPER Architect

INTERPRETIVE 11am-4pm Jun-Aug) lav V’s gate 1) gate V’s Olav Kong

Storkaia 9; Storkaia

9am-3pm Sun-Fri) 9am-3pm www.oik.no; h

A two-week opera festival in ear festival opera A two-week warehouse dating from 1835, and 1835, from dating warehouse Festivals 71 58 99 60; Behind the church lies Vanndamman Vanndamman lies church Behind the % ly February. Operafestukene (www.oik.no) resides here, along with the city’s opera fes opera city’s the with along here, resides to a new although these will move wa tival, terfront cultural centre by 2017. z ing is usually open during business hours or company oldest opera call ahead). Norway’s veau interior that’s definitely worth definitely a peek interior that’s veau for architecture and history (the build buffs umental theatre, although rather austere rather although umental theatre, art nou from the outside, has an attractive ( mon Kristiansund’s Constructed in 1914, patch on the Norsk Oljemuseum in Stavanger. on the Norsk patch Festiviteten of oil and gas upon contemporary Norway. of oil and gas upon contemporary Norway. not a There are some nice models, but it’s film, models, an exhaustiveguided tour and film, mind-numbing megastatistics, the impact Presenting the modern face of Kristian Presenting through this centre portrays, sund industry, (www.petrosenteret.no; Nkr75/50; incl guided tour viewpoint. Petrosenteret Park, with plenty of greenery, walking tracks of greenery, with plenty Park, watchtower Varden and the eagle’s-eyrie heaven’. colours at the base, theycolours at become paler and, light of the ‘celestial the top, replicate at 320 panes of stained glass at the rear of theof rear the stainedof panes 320 at glass earthy upward from the chancel. Moving bombs. The angular exterior, where copper bombs. The exterior, angular and concrete is sober and meas alternate, all lines direct the eye to theured. Inside, Odd Østby’s inspirational church was built inspirational Odd Østby’s by Nazi destroyed in 1964 to replace the one Church Kirkelandet 41; (Langveien workshop and workers’ quarters. and workers’ workshop clutter, but it includes the remnants of Kris but it includes the clutter, 19th-century tiansund’s a forge, a shipyard, best on foot along the quayside approached (p Fiskerestaurant Smia the from the amid what out what’s to make difficult Something of a nautical junkyard, Melle Something of a nautical junkyard, mværftet, time, isfree and accessible any Mellemværftet Woldbrygga, a barrel factory constructedWoldbrygga, in 1875. klippfisk

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On the 1st floor of www.eideauto.no;

newspaper once once newspaper 1pm-midnight) 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) 10am-5pm h www.smia.no;

Storgata 17) Storgata

90 77 30 63; Guardian and the north, take the new the new take and the north, % (

Drinking & Entertainment & Drinking

Shopping 71 57 03 00; 03 7157 gratin does nicely for mains (Nkr249). gratin 71 67 11 70; 71 67 % % a little scary on. a little as the night wears 7 Klippfiskbutikken 25; (Fosnagata Garshol, a member of the Knut Smia Fiskerestaurant ( mains Nkr240-295; is in an old restaurant garlanded Smia fish ceiling with black adorned from wall to forge, smiths tools – plus a couple of whale verte The and a hanging split cod. brae soup fish starter great a the and makes (Nkr130) lao 6 Bar Christian’s ( Bar is an Christian’s Kristiansund, Hotell has the decor of place that oddly fascinating hipsterWilliamsburg a attracts but haunt, they look like will probably getpunters that dinner menu allows you to stay snacky or snacky to stay dinner menu allows you smokedopt for more ambitious choices like withpork or purée pear with duck Vestfold and asparagus. spring cabbage Eide Auto

Kristiansund ------€€

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buses link Molde and Kristiansund year-round, via year-round, link Molde and Kristiansund buses lunch OOD

AF 11.30am- SE R BA ANT, h Skolegata 8; Skolegata

klippfisk R STAU Storkaia 1; Storkaia RE

(pancakes) and waf (pancakes) noon-midnight Mon-Sat) , a little over 10km north of Bud, you can venture out onto a beautifully a beautifully out onto venture can you Bud, north of 10km a little over , h lashed bridges of Atlanterhavsveien (Atlantic Ocean Road), recently recently Road), Ocean (Atlantic Atlanterhavsveien of bridges lashed svele , hit the coast at Bud; from at Bud; from hit the coast ,

www.fireb.no; www.sjostjerna.no;

Molde , an island off the southwest of Averøya; the suspended walkway is made of is made walkway the suspended Averøya; of southwest the island off an , Askevågen ) or take the bus from the centre head ) or take Whichever your direction, rather than driving the Rv64, which cuts across inland across which cuts driving the Rv64, than rather direction, your Whichever steam, own under your travelling If you’re From From A newly opened rest area and walking path float about the wet marshland of wet marshland the about float path walking and area opened rest newly A At eturn day ticket adult/child Nkr150/100) adult/child ticket day eturn Bryggekanten 71 67 61 60; 71 67 71 67 87 78; 87 71 67 You can get here on the Sundbåten ferry can get here on the Sundbåten You R you buy the although if round trip, a 2¼ hour It’s Atlanterhavsveien. and route the coastal on two six departures, are week there During the at will. off hop on and can you ticket day and one on Sundays. Saturday sub-sea road tunnel that connects with Bremsnes. tunnel that connects road sub-sea the around that loops Kvernes, signed for road, prettier quieter, the choose Averøya, no longer. takes and coast southern island’s simple glass fronted viewing platform, which not only gives you a 360-degree panoramic panoramic a 360-degree you only gives not which platform, viewing fronted simple glass of experience if protected, but a close, shore, and the the ocean the archipelago, of view here. ocean the of force the intense husøya information a kiosk, is also There on poles. secured terrain, the above floating latticework here. and toilets park car boards, crowned it the ‘world’s best road trip’. For a highway that is barely 8km long, the weight of weight the 8km long, barely that is a highway For trip’. road best ‘world’s it the crowned the autumn storms During scenic. hugely certainly but it’s great, be too may expectation for whales look out season, And in dramatic. most at its wrath nature’s experience you’ll offshore. and seals THE ATLANTIC OCEAN ROAD ATLANTIC THE storm- The eight 17 connecting serpents, sea twist like buck and Route, Tourist a National designated UK’s The Averøya. of and the island Vevang between islets 252 % % 10.30pm Mon-Sat, bar until 2.30am Wed, Fri & Sat) Fri Wed, until 2.30am bar Mon-Sat, 10.30pm This cheerful sits right beside the brasserie and night. both day harbour and is convivial make mussels, pizza and bruschetta Burgers, while thefor hearty lunches on the terrace, o ( dinner mains Nkr298-310; Nkr159-192, ners and its jaunty marine-themed interi ners and its jaunty or is a hoot, although the outlook from its street-side pedestri on a windswept terrace, anised plaza, is grim. Sjøstjerna ( mains Nkr195-279; din fish traditional The menu here offers festival after-hoursfestival club. (p ing towards Hønebukta. standards including fish soup, standards including fish burgers, tomato, of the annual Tahiti also the office fles. It’s into its own as the when it comes Festival, Gamle Byen on the city island of Innland on the city Gamle Byen et, back to the dates this cafe-restaurant-bar early 1700s. serves It a menu of west-coast - - - late- M/S h

dates from the dates (www.gripexpressen.no; plies the 14km between plies the 14km

stave church stave

From late May to late August, the to late May late From The last gave permanent inhabitants The island’s In the early 19th century, after a drop the early 19th In century, boathouse and restored to its rightful placeboathouse 1930s.the in The nave the in frescos lively whitewash revealed when later waswere stripped off. Gripexpressen May–early-August) Piren terminal and Grip (40 Kristiansund’s Nkr305/150 return) minutes; adult/child journey3½time is Total daily. or twice once principle, In ashore. time including hours, within the a guided tour included there’s fare. yourself on the island saved three hours of on the island saved yourself the mainland. from hard rowing each way today’s among wander you as Imagine, seasons, fishing sprinkle of houses, spring fisherfolkwhen more than 1000 hunkered down here. a small pho There’s in 1974. up the fight with an accompanying display tographic sheet storehouses. in English in one of the A summertime cafe serves snacks in what (only three pu school was once the village leftpils were for the last when its bell rang time in 1972). altarpiece, discarded at 15th Its late century. the time of the Reformation, was found in a Around Kristiansund Grip island as rocky together on a tiny Huddled though for protection against gales, Atlantic Grip with its pastel-painted of the village islets of 80 an archipelago houses sits amid The 47m- the is skerries. and elevation only on a nearby lighthouse tall Bratthårskollen skywards. built in 1888 and prodding skerry, powerful storms, thein cod hauls and two practicallywas itBut abandoned. village dur swelling bounced back, its population season when basinging the cod-fishing - - - n n - - - 71 68 30 9am-6pm 9am-6pm % h ( iren pier at the , to eat in or take in , to eat airport (www.sundbaten.no; (www.sundbaten.no; bacalao nnlandet, Nordlandet and and Nordlandet nnlandet, 71 58 54 54; www.visitkris % ( urtigruten coastal ferry also calls in olmakaia.

Getting Around Getting Information Getting There & Away 8 8 8 Sundbåten ferry Sundbåten

Buses travel regularly to/from the airport the to/from regularly travel Buses xpress boats connect Kristiansund with Trond nland buses run hourly to Molde (Nkr156, 1½ BUS BOAT AIR to Saturday; the full circuit takes 20 minutes. and the islands of I of islands the and Gomelandet. They run every half hour, Monday sake and for the special perspective it gives of the harbour. Boats leave from P foot of Kaibakken hill, linking the town centre for these small, squat boats tobear. Whatever the history, it’s well worth the ride for its own to be ‘the world’s oldest public transport system in uninterrupted That’s use’. a heavy reputation The Nkr85) claims ticket day Nkr30/15, adult/child is much more impressive and scarcely longer. Northwards, there are up to three buses daily to Trondheim (Nkr400, 4¾ hours). 8 hours) and on to Ålesund (3¾ hours). The coast al run that rolls along the Atlanterhavsveien I skaia). The H H at daily E heim (3½ hours, up to three daily from Nordmør (Nkr60, 15 minutes, up to eight daily) to meet incoming flights. 50) is on Nordlandet island. There are frequent frequent are There island. Nordlandet on is 50) flights daily to/from both Oslo and Bergen. The town’s Kvernberget Kvernberget town’s The 8 Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) I the centre, back up the hill from the waterfront. tiansund.com; Kongens plass 1; 11am-4pm Sat, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, mid- Sun 8 office Tourist away. temple to the mighty cod. Try his grand his Try cod. mighty the to temple recipe for mother’s buttonhole you and enthusiastically and pro you buttonhole this splendidthe virtuesclaim at of klipfish slow-food ecogastronomy movement, will movement, ecogastronomy slow-food

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