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HISTORIC LANDMARKS Our Annual Look at Some of the State’S Most Iconic Places FEBRUARY 2016

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HISTORIC LANDMARKS Our Annual Look at Some of the State’S Most Iconic Places FEBRUARY 2016 HISTORIC LANDMARKS Our Annual Look at Some of the State’s Most Iconic Places FEBRUARY 2016 GRAINS SUPREME ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE The Return of HAYDEN FLOUR — SENECA “Travel and change of place impart place and of change the new mind.” vigor to “Travel Painted Desert Inn, Petrified Forest National Park plus: SAVING A FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT LANDMARK • HIKING THE ARIZONA TRAIL RED ROCK CROSSING • CROWN KING • ESTHER HENDERSON • AVENUE HOTEL B&B Grand Canyon National Park Petrified Forest 46 QUITE WRIGHT National Park February Flagstaff Of the 532 Frank Lloyd Wright designs that were Prescott built, some experts say the David and Gladys Shumway 2016 Wright House in Phoenix is among the 20 most important. Although it had long ago faded from the public imagination, it was thrust into the PHOENIX 2 EDITOR’S LETTER spotlight in 2012, when a developer planned to Organ Pipe Cactus demolish the iconic structure to make way for National Monument Santa Rita CONTRIBUTORS Mountains 3 new homes. That’s when a kid from the neigh- Bisbee borhood stepped in. Rio Rico 4 LETTERS Douglas By Matt Jaffe POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE 5 THE JOURNAL Photographs by Mark Boisclair People, places and things from around the state, includ- ing a look back at iconic photographer Esther Hender- 52 SCENIC DRIVE son; Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument; and the Prescott to Crown King: This scenic drive, which history of Sedona, which at one time was known more begins and ends among towering ponderosa for its orchards than for its gift shops. pines, features a range of ecosystems in between, as well as some interesting Arizona 16 HISTORIC PLACES history. Our fourth annual salute to the state’s most historic By Kathy Montgomery landmarks. This year’s class includes the Painted Desert Inn, Slaughter Ranch, Shumway School, the Pioneer 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH Museum and the Copper Queen Hotel. Arizona Trail — Kentucky Camp: The Arizona By Noah Austin Trail runs for 800 miles from north to south Photographs by Mark Lipczynski across the state. Some of the most beautiful ◗ Sunrise creates silhouettes of miles can be found in the grasslands of Monument Valley’s Mittens as the 28 RED ROCK CROSSING Southern Arizona. moon sets behind the crook of a barren tree. Adam Schallau Along with the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley and the By Robert Stieve CANON EOS 5D, 30 SEC, F/11, Photographs by Jeff Maltzman saguaro forests of the Sonoran Desert, the red rocks of ISO 320, 32 MM LENS Sedona are recognized around the world. And of all the FRONT COVER: The Painted Desert red rocks, the most famous is Cathedral Rock, which 56 WHERE IS THIS? Inn at Petrified Forest National anchors a place called Red Rock Crossing. Park dates to the 1930s and is now a A Portfolio by Derek von Briesen National Historic Landmark. Mark Lipczynski CANON EOS 5D MARK III, 38 GRAINS SUPREME 1/40 SEC, F/5.6, ISO 320, 28 MM LENS Jeff Zimmerman moved to Arizona from North Dakota BACK COVER: Gregg Arch emerges in 1972. In 2011, he reincarnated Hayden Flour Mills. And from the Lukachukai Mountains today, he’s part of a growing national movement of in Northeastern Arizona. farmers, chefs and food artisans working not only to David Muench revive heritage grains, but also to mill them properly, CANON EOS-1DS MARK II, 0.3 SEC, F/11, ISO 100, 50 MM LENS thereby retaining their flavor and nutrients instead of refining them to a fluffy, flavorless fare-thee-well. By Nikki Buchanan Photographs by Jacques Barbey GET MORE /azhighways ONLINE @azhighways @arizonahighways www.arizonahighways.com 2 OCTOBER 2015 PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER CONTRIBUTORS The inn is one of five places featured in MATT JAFFE our annual salute to the state’s most historic Matt Jaffe grew up visiting Frank Lloyd Wright-designed landmarks. The others are the Copper Queen FEBRUARY 2016 VOL. 92, NO. 2 houses in his native Chicago, so he says he was “astound- Hotel, Shumway School, the Pioneer Museum ed” when he heard Phoenix’s David and Gladys Wright and Slaughter Ranch, which is named for John 800-543-5432 House (see Quite Wright, page 46) was on the verge of www.arizonahighways.com Slaughter, who served as Cochise County sheriff demolition. “It seemed impossible that such a distinctive in the wake of the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral and significant building would be lost forever,” he says. PUBLISHER Win Holden and later turned to ranching. As Noah Austin “Then, once the house was saved, I really wanted to get EDITOR Robert Stieve writes in Historic Places, “During its peak, the inside and learn more about it.” In doing so, Jaffe became ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, ranch employed 150 people, controlled 100,000 DIRECTOR OF familiar with one of the famed architect’s most personal SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero “HOORAY FOR RAYMOND.” acres in the U.S. and Mexico, and supplied beef projects. “Descriptions of Frank Lloyd Wright tend to MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn That’s what Frank Lloyd Wright scribbled on an and produce to area towns and military posts.” either be overly reverential or revel in how demanding ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin entrance wall in the home of Raymond Carlson, The ranch, like each of the places in our story, has and difficult he could be,” he says. “I wanted to convey that this American icon was a real EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel the editor emeritus of Arizona Highways. The two an interesting history. And so does Hayden Flour. person, too.” Jaffe’sTwo Men and a Truck, a November 2014 story for Arizona Highways, PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida men were good friends. Still, the note, which was When most Arizonans hear that name, they recently was honored at the 2015 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards, and he’s CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney written with a thick black pencil, was probably unexpected, considering the think of the grain elevator and white silos that sit working on a story on oil development in Southern California for Los Angeles magazine. ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney man who wrote it wasn’t known for doling out compliments. Or maybe he was next to the century-old mill in Tempe. Although MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey being sarcastic. Regardless, here’s the story that gets told around the office: the complex has been dormant since 1998, the PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi It begins in the 1940s, when Mr. Wright learned that our founding father name was resurrected in 2011, when an entrepre- MARK LIPCZYNSKI and his wife were living in a small apartment in Central Phoenix. For what- neur named Jeff Zimmerman purchased the WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow Photographer Mark Lipczynski’s assignment ever reason, that seemed insufficient to the renowned architect. In fact, he was trademark and reincarnated Hayden Flour Mills. CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman for this issue took him to five of Arizona’s so concerned, he said: “I’ll design a new home for you. For free. All you have to But he didn’t do it for mass production. As Nikki FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen iconic landmarks (see Historic Places, page 16). do is buy a lot and provide a construction crew.” The house was built in 1949. Buchanan writes in Grains Supreme, Zimmerman OPERATIONS/IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis That meant Lipczynski got to see parts of A year or so later, Mr. Wright stopped by to say hello. No one was home at “saw firsthand what happened to wheat-farming the state that he hadn’t visited in a long the time, but the front door was unlocked, so the confident man walked in and to wheat itself in the 1960s, when old-fash- CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 time — or ever. “I finally was able to take and noticed that the chairs he’d designed for the home weren’t being used. ioned agriculture gave way to new-fashioned SPONSORSHIP SALES time to photograph the steam locomotive REPRESENTATION On Media Publications Instead, the Carlsons were using inexpensive but comfortable chairs they’d agribusiness.” Lesley Bennett on display at the Pioneer Museum in purchased in town — like most of the furniture Mr. Wright designed, the As a result, Zimmerman is part of a growing 602-445-7160 Flagstaff,” he says, “and I enjoyed learning Carlsons’ custom chairs were visually spectacular but ergonomically unfit. national movement of farmers working to revive about the history of Slaughter Ranch.” But Whether the scribbled note was a sarcastic jab or a rare compliment, no one heritage grains and mill them properly, thereby LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] it wasn’t without challenges, most of them caused by Mother Nature. “It rained on me at 2039 W. Lewis Avenue really knows, but the two men remained friends, and 60 years ago this month, retaining their flavor and nutrients. It’s admira- Phoenix, AZ 85009 the Pioneer Museum, Slaughter Ranch and Painted Desert Inn, and I got rained on at Mr. Carlson dedicated our February issue to the legacy of Mr. Wright. ble work, and it’s catching on — his flour is being Shumway School, too!” he says. “Usually, a good rain shower makes for crystal-clear light In addition to a lengthy piece about Taliesin West, the architect’s win- used by the best chefs in Arizona, and products GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey and puffy clouds, but at Painted Desert Inn, it was completely overcast.
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