HISTORIC LANDMARKS Our Annual Look at Some of the State’S Most Iconic Places FEBRUARY 2016

HISTORIC LANDMARKS Our Annual Look at Some of the State’s Most Iconic Places FEBRUARY 2016

GRAINS SUPREME ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE The Return of HAYDEN FLOUR — SENECA

“Travel and change of place impart place of and change the mind.” new vigor to “Travel

Painted Desert Inn, Petrified Forest National Park

plus: SAVING A FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT LANDMARK • HIKING THE ARIZONA TRAIL RED ROCK CROSSING • CROWN KING • ESTHER HENDERSON • AVENUE HOTEL B&B Grand Canyon National Park

Petrified Forest 46 QUITE WRIGHT National Park February Flagstaff Of the 532 Frank Lloyd Wright designs that were Prescott built, some experts say the David and Gladys Shumway 2016 Wright House in Phoenix is among the 20 most important. Although it had long ago faded from the public imagination, it was thrust into the PHOENIX 2 EDITOR’S LETTER spotlight in 2012, when a developer planned to Organ Pipe Cactus demolish the iconic structure to make way for National Monument Santa Rita CONTRIBUTORS Mountains 3 new homes. That’s when a kid from the neigh- Bisbee borhood stepped in. Rio Rico 4 LETTERS Douglas By Matt Jaffe POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE 5 THE JOURNAL Photographs by Mark Boisclair People, places and things from around the state, including a look back at iconic photographer Esther Hender- 52 SCENIC DRIVE son; Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument; and the Prescott to Crown King: This scenic drive, which history of Sedona, which at one time was known more begins and ends among towering ponderosa for its orchards than for its gift shops. pines, features a range of ecosystems in between, as well as some interesting Arizona 16 HISTORIC PLACES history. Our fourth annual salute to the state’s most historic By Kathy Montgomery landmarks. This year’s class includes the Painted Desert Inn, Slaughter Ranch, Shumway School, the Pioneer 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH Museum and the Copper Queen Hotel. Arizona Trail — Kentucky Camp: The Arizona By Noah Austin Trail runs for 800 miles from north to south Photographs by Mark Lipczynski across the state. Some of the most beautiful ◗ Sunrise creates silhouettes of miles can be found in the grasslands of Monument Valley’s Mittens as the 28 RED ROCK CROSSING Southern Arizona. moon sets behind the crook of a barren tree. Adam Schallau Along with the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley and the By Robert Stieve CANON EOS 5D, 30 SEC, F/11, Photographs by Jeff Maltzman saguaro forests of the Sonoran Desert, the red rocks of ISO 320, 32 MM LENS Sedona are recognized around the world. And of all the FRONT COVER: The Painted Desert red rocks, the most famous is Cathedral Rock, which 56 WHERE IS THIS? Inn at Petrified Forest National anchors a place called Red Rock Crossing. Park dates to the 1930s and is now a A Portfolio by Derek von Briesen National Historic Landmark. Mark Lipczynski CANON EOS 5D MARK III, 38 GRAINS SUPREME 1/40 SEC, F/5.6, ISO 320, 28 MM LENS

Jeff Zimmerman moved to Arizona from North Dakota BACK COVER: Gregg Arch emerges in 1972. In 2011, he reincarnated Hayden Flour Mills. And from the Lukachukai Mountains today, he’s part of a growing national movement of in Northeastern Arizona. farmers, chefs and food artisans working not only to David Muench revive heritage grains, but also to mill them properly, CANON EOS-1DS MARK II, 0.3 SEC, F/11, ISO 100, 50 MM LENS thereby retaining their flavor and nutrients instead of refining them to a fluffy, flavorless fare-thee-well. By Nikki Buchanan Photographs by Jacques Barbey

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2 OCTOBER 2015 PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER CONTRIBUTORS

The inn is one of five places featured in MATT JAFFE our annual salute to the state’s most historic Matt Jaffe grew up visiting Frank Lloyd Wright-designed

landmarks. The others are the Copper Queen FEBRUARY 2016 VOL. 92, NO. 2 houses in his native Chicago, so he says he was “astound- Hotel, Shumway School, the Pioneer Museum ed” when he heard Phoenix’s David and Gladys Wright and Slaughter Ranch, which is named for John 800-543-5432 House (see Quite Wright, page 46) was on the verge of www.arizonahighways.com Slaughter, who served as Cochise County sheriff demolition. “It seemed impossible that such a distinctive in the wake of the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral and significant building would be lost forever,” he says. PUBLISHER Win Holden and later turned to ranching. As Noah Austin “Then, once the house was saved, I really wanted to get EDITOR Robert Stieve writes in Historic Places, “During its peak, the inside and learn more about it.” In doing so, Jaffe became ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, ranch employed 150 people, controlled 100,000 DIRECTOR OF familiar with one of the famed architect’s most personal SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero “HOORAY FOR RAYMOND.” acres in the U.S. and Mexico, and supplied beef projects. “Descriptions of Frank Lloyd Wright tend to MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn That’s what Frank Lloyd Wright scribbled on an and produce to area towns and military posts.” either be overly reverential or revel in how demanding ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin entrance wall in the home of Raymond Carlson, The ranch, like each of the places in our story, has and difficult he could be,” he says. “I wanted to convey that this American icon was a real EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel the editor emeritus of Arizona Highways. The two an interesting history. And so does Hayden Flour. person, too.” Jaffe’sTwo Men and a Truck, a November 2014 story for Arizona Highways, PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida men were good friends. Still, the note, which was When most Arizonans hear that name, they recently was honored at the 2015 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards, and he’s CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney written with a thick black pencil, was probably unexpected, considering the think of the grain elevator and white silos that sit working on a story on oil development in Southern California for Los Angeles magazine. ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney man who wrote it wasn’t known for doling out compliments. Or maybe he was next to the century-old mill in Tempe. Although MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey being sarcastic. Regardless, here’s the story that gets told around the office: the complex has been dormant since 1998, the PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi It begins in the 1940s, when Mr. Wright learned that our founding father name was resurrected in 2011, when an entrepre- MARK LIPCZYNSKI and his wife were living in a small apartment in Central Phoenix. For what- neur named Jeff Zimmerman purchased the WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow Photographer Mark Lipczynski’s assignment ever reason, that seemed insufficient to the renowned architect. In fact, he was trademark and reincarnated Hayden Flour Mills. CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman for this issue took him to five of Arizona’s so concerned, he said: “I’ll design a new home for you. For free. All you have to But he didn’t do it for mass production. As Nikki FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen iconic landmarks (see Historic Places, page 16). do is buy a lot and provide a construction crew.” The house was built in 1949. Buchanan writes in Grains Supreme, Zimmerman OPERATIONS/IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis That meant Lipczynski got to see parts of A year or so later, Mr. Wright stopped by to say hello. No one was home at “saw firsthand what happened to wheat-farming the state that he hadn’t visited in a long the time, but the front door was unlocked, so the confident man walked in and to wheat itself in the 1960s, when old-fash- CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 time — or ever. “I finally was able to take and noticed that the chairs he’d designed for the home weren’t being used. ioned agriculture gave way to new-fashioned SPONSORSHIP SALES time to photograph the steam locomotive REPRESENTATION On Media Publications Instead, the Carlsons were using inexpensive but comfortable chairs they’d agribusiness.” Lesley Bennett on display at the Pioneer Museum in purchased in town — like most of the furniture Mr. Wright designed, the As a result, Zimmerman is part of a growing 602-445-7160 Flagstaff,” he says, “and I enjoyed learning Carlsons’ custom chairs were visually spectacular but ergonomically unfit. national movement of farmers working to revive about the history of Slaughter Ranch.” But Whether the scribbled note was a sarcastic jab or a rare compliment, no one heritage grains and mill them properly, thereby LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] it wasn’t without challenges, most of them caused by Mother Nature. “It rained on me at 2039 W. Lewis Avenue really knows, but the two men remained friends, and 60 years ago this month, retaining their flavor and nutrients. It’s admira- Phoenix, AZ 85009 the Pioneer Museum, Slaughter Ranch and Painted Desert Inn, and I got rained on at Mr. Carlson dedicated our February issue to the legacy of Mr. Wright. ble work, and it’s catching on — his flour is being Shumway School, too!” he says. “Usually, a good rain shower makes for crystal-clear light

In addition to a lengthy piece about Taliesin West, the architect’s win- used by the best chefs in Arizona, and products GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey and puffy clouds, but at Painted Desert Inn, it was completely overcast. I was worried ter home, the issue featured the Raymond Carlson House and the Phoenix bearing the iconic name are available at retailers about dealing with that in my photos, but in the end, some of my favorite photos from the DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT home of David and Gladys Wright. Of the 532 Frank Lloyd Wright designs throughout the Southwest. OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski assignment came from there.” Lipczynski is a frequent Arizona Highways contributor

that were built, some experts say the home he choreographed for his son is All we need now is a plan for the original mill ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION whose recent work has also appeared in Preservation and WestJet magazines. among the 20 most important. and its iconic white silos. Ideally, history will BOARD CHAIRMAN Kelly O. Anderson “He went for it, design-wise,” says Zachary Rawling, who recently pur- repeat itself, and some inspired disciple of Frank VICE CHAIRMAN Joseph E. La Rue chased the 64-year-old home. “This house was a culmination of a life spent Lloyd Wright will offer to make it a home for MEMBERS William Cuthbertson MARK BOISCLAIR in architecture. You can see elements from his entire career.” Arizona Highways. It would be a great place for Deanna Beaver Mark Boisclair specializes in architectural photography, and he says he primarily makes Despite its significance, the home was nearly demolished in 2012. As Matt our world headquarters. And, for what it’s worth, Jack W. Sellers photos of new projects for architects, interior designers and homebuilders. So his Jaffe writes in Quite Wright: “When the house was sold after Gladys’ death we’d use whatever furniture it comes with. Michael S. Hammond assignment for this month’s issue, photographing the David and Gladys Wright House in 2008, the Wright family assumed the new owners would preserve it. But ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR (see Quite Wright, page 46), was unfamiliar territory. “I wanted to see what kinds of then the house was sold again in 2010, this time to a development company Follow me on Instagram: @arizonahighways Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by the Arizona photographs I could make of this well-documented, that planned to split the lot and build new homes.” Department of Transportation. Subscription price: $24 a year in the U.S., historic home,” Boisclair says. He’d seen photos of the According to Sarah Levi, Frank Lloyd Wright’s great-great-granddaughter, a $44 outside the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432. Subscrip- house’s exterior but had never visited it. Once he did, tion correspondence and change of address information: Arizona High- demolition permit had been issued, but after seeing the house he was hired to ways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Periodical postage paid at he says, he was surprised by its “rather impractical” tear down, the contractor, concerned that a Wright design might be destroyed COMING IN Phoenix, AZ, and at additional mailing office. CANADA POST INTERNA- construction methods and the wear and tear visible in error, contacted the city, which voided the permit. That’s when Rawling, TIONAL PUBLICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT (CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION) SALES on the house. “In many ways, though, it’s kind of a AGREEMENT NO. 41220511. SEND RETURNS TO QUAD/GRAPHICS, P.O. BOX who grew up in the neighborhood, stepped in and saved the property. MARCH ... 875, WINDSOR, ON N9A 6P2. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Ari- sealed time capsule,” he says. “Historical photographs In Matt’s story, you’ll learn more about the narrow escape. In this month’s Next month, we zona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Copyright © 2016 of the kitchen from the 1950s look exactly how the cover story, you’ll learn about another close call. Like the David and Gladys feature the work of by the Arizona Department of Transportation. Reproduction in whole or in room appears today. Overall, it’s a visually beautiful Emry Kopta, who part without permission is prohibited. The magazine does not accept and exercise in design.” Boisclair’s other recent projects Wright House, the Painted Desert Inn near Holbrook was facing demolition made rare photo- is not responsible for unsolicited materials. until a last-minute public campaign preserved it. With hindsight, that was a graphs of Native include photographing the Seven Canyons golf club in blessing, because in 1975, the inn was listed on the National Register of His- Americans between Sedona and several Todd & Associates architectural PRODUCED IN THE USA toric Places, and 11 years later, it became a National Historic Landmark. 1912 and 1925. projects in the Phoenix area. — NOAH AUSTIN

2 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP PAUL MARKOW ABOVE EMRY KOPTA PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP TO BOTTOM BECKY MANFREDINI, MARK LIPCZYNSKI, MARK BOISCLAIR www.arizonahighways.com 3 LETTERS [email protected] THE JOURNAL

YOUR DECEMBER 2015 ISSUE, which was dedicated to longtime photog-

rapher David Muench, was outstanding. A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY & JEFF KIDA What a pleasure to go through your magazine. I was completely mesmerized by the 7 DECADES OF beauty of the landscape compositions; IN JANUARY 1955, WE WELCOMED DAVID MUENCH David MuenchTO THE PAGES OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. HE GOT true works of art. THE COVER THAT MONTH, AT THE AGE OF 18. Jean-Pierre Ferrat, Geneva, Switzerland SINCE THEN, THERE HAVE BEEN TOO MANY PHOTOGRAPHS TO COUNT. WHAT WE DO KNOW IS THAT MR. MUENCH HAS BEEN SHOOTING FOR US FOR PARTS OF SEVEN DECADES, AND HIS BODY OF WORK IS AS IMPRESSIVE AS IT IS EXTENSIVE. Two of a 10 DECEMBER 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 11

December 2015 Kind This shot of Antelope Canyon near Page is an exercise in the abstract. very issue I receive leads me to was stopped, and none was coming up, pictures cannot explain this adventure Photographer John Barra thought think, This is the best ever. And some- either. Looking up at the other side, we back in time. It was nice to get a little his shots of the canyon were E how, it’s true. The pictures by David noted a large 18-wheeler blocking traf- more information on just how hard the looking too similar, so he created Muench [December 2015] are simply fic. It took us about 45 minutes to walk wonderful staff works to make our visit a mirrored image of one of them spectacular (although not simple). Just as across the bridge, up to the semi. The even more special. I’m looking forward and rendered it in black and white. with my first view of the “Great Gulch” driver told us a rockslide and mudslide to riding back down and staying two In the words of Photo Editor Jeff (the Grand Canyon), I can’t stop looking had pushed his truck across the road, nights. One night just isn’t enough. Kida: “He took something that was already an abstraction and at the view before me. On our first trip to almost to the far edge. Then he told us Beth Ann O’Toole, Warrington, Pennsylvania kicked it up to the next level.” Arizona, we stayed up and watched the he had “to go into the back of his truck” For more information on Antelope sun set over the Canyon, and then got up to change his clothes. Eventually, we n your July 2015 issue, you had a short Canyon, visit the Navajo Nation early the next morning to watch the sun returned to our vehicle and the road was story [Not Her First Rodeo] that refers to Parks & Recreation website, rise over the Canyon. Similarly, I can’t cleared, but not in time for us to report I roping a calf, but I think the ropers are www.navajonationparks.org. stop looking at — can’t get enough of — to work Monday morning. No one at roping a roping steer, not a calf. When CANON EOS 40D, 1/13 SEC, the pictures by David Muench. The best work believed my story when I phoned, cowboys rope a calf, it’s only one man F/9, ISO 100, 35 MM LENS issue ever? Yes. That is, until next one, until The Arizona Republic ran the story a roping. Also, tell Tyler Williams maybe. Please, never stop. Never stop few days later. [Contributors, September 2015] and coming up with “the best issue ever.” The Rev. Ruth H. Deaton, Newberry, Florida Robert Stieve, editor, they really need to P.W. (Bill) Miller, Columbus, Ohio put clothes on before their picture is y name is Helen Yun from China. taken. I’m so sick of seeing people who assume that the “D” shape of White Today, I bought a [hardbound col- have no pride in their appearance. Why Mesa Arch on the back cover of the M lection] of Arizona Highways (1976) can’t people see how bad that looks? I’m I December 2015 issue is a tribute to from the Goodwill store of Central so tired of seeing shorts and sandals! David Muench. Very clever. Arizona. The magazine is so wonderful, There really are very few people’s legs I Mike Dant, Green Valley, Arizona and I’m deeply moved. I also Googled care to see. I see tons of them daily, and “Arizona Highways” and browsed the it’s disgusting. Have mirrors been out- our beautiful feature on the Salt website. I love the content and style of lawed and someone didn’t tell me? I River Canyon [Another Grand Canyon, the site. I will tell my friends about it, wouldn’t go out to feed cattle dressed Y November 2015] brought back a vivid for when they visit Arizona. like that. memory. Sometime in 1955, my husband, Helen Yun, Beijing, China Georgia Tucker, Sahuarita, Arizona our 4-year old son and I had been on a week’s vacation with friends, fishing at was so thrilled to see the wonderful contact us If you have thoughts or com- Big Lake. Vacation over, we headed back article on Phantom Ranch [Desert Oasis, ments about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d to Phoenix on Sunday afternoon so as to I November 2015]. I just returned from love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@ arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis be at work Monday morning. Partway the overnight mule ride with an over- Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information, down into Salt River Canyon, all traffic night stay down at the ranch. Words or visit www.arizonahighways.com.

4 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN BARRA J national parks centennial

EDITOR’S NOTE: In August, the National Park Service will celebrate its 100th anniversary. Leading up to that milestone, we’re spotlighting some of Arizona’s wonderful national parks.

A man poses with an organ pipe cactus in the 1920s or ’30s — possibly before Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument was created.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

KAYLA FROST

As hot as Arizona can be, most drive five scenic roads, three of of the state isn’t warm enough them requiring high-clearance year-round for the organ pipe vehicles, or venture out on foot cactus. Thus, this columnar on maintained trails (or simply cactus primarily lives in parts with a map and compass, of Mexico, where freezing tem- backcountry style). To stay peratures are less common, overnight and fall asleep under but its range extends into the brilliant stars to the howls of southernmost section of Ari- coyotes, choose between two zona. A unique section of the campgrounds or get a permit Sonoran Desert, Organ Pipe for the backcountry. Cactus National Monument

protects most of Arizona’s YEAR DESIGNATED: 1937 wild population of organ pipes, (national monument) whose many limbs can grow AREA: 330,000 acres higher than 25 feet. (approximate) From its mountains and WILDERNESS ACREAGE: canyons, marked with long- 312,600 acres (approximate) ANNUAL VISITATION: gone volcanic activity, to its 224,548 (2014) lowland plains, there is much AVERAGE ELEVATION: to explore in the monument’s 1,755 feet 517 square miles. Visitors can Along with its namesakes, the monument is home to 25 other cactus species, including saguaros and chollas. NEAR AJO www.nps.gov/orpi

6 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH: ARIZONA HISTORICAL SOCIETY PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM DANIELSEN www.arizonahighways.com 7 J history photography J

THIS MONTH IN HISTORY

■ Construction workers lay the final stone in the original Roosevelt Dam on February 5, 1911. ■ Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West, the architect’s winter home in Scottsdale, is added to the National Register of Historic Places on Febru- ary 12, 1974. ■ President Abraham Lin- coln creates the Arizona Walter Jordan Territory on February 24, takes his daughters for a 1863, by signing an act tractor ride at that partitions it from the Jordan Ranch in New Mexico Territory. the 1930s. ■ The city of Phoenix, with a population of Walter Jordan about 2,000, is incorporated on February 25, 1881. When Walter Jordan moved to Sedona in 1928, fruit orchards, not gift shops, dotted the ■ President Woodrow landscape. Although most of the orchards closed by the 1960s, there was a time when Wilson signs a bill to make The distant Tuzigoot Grand Canyon National National Monument Jordan Ranch included 5,000 grapevines, 700 peach trees and more than 300 apple trees. looms over fall color Monument the country’s along the Verde River KATHY MONTGOMERY 17th national park on near Clarkdale. February 26, 1919. oday, Sedona is best known for its orchards. When deer and rabbits damaged vortexes and red rocks, but until the their trees, he and Ruth replaced them, plant- In Memoriam: Tom Danielsen, 1935-2015 1960s, it was famous for fruit. And ing carrots, beans and strawberries between PHOTO EDITOR JEFF KIDA Walter Jordan was one of the area’s the rows until the trees could bear fruit. Wal- 50 YEARS AGO T IN ARIZONA HIGHWAYS most successful growers. ter and George also devised an innovative irri- Walter’s father, Will, established an gation system, and their orchards thrived. One TOM DANIELSEN WAS A STORYTELLER. Phoenix earlier than planned. He digital tools of the trade, including PHOTO WORKSHOP orchard and farm in Clarkdale, where Walter of Walter’s Hal-Berta Giant peaches reportedly The above photo of Tuzigoot passed away several days later at Photoshop. Later, Tom discovered National Monument, which I a Phoenix hospital. Lightroom, another post-process- was born. Fleeing smoke from the smelters, weighed 1.5 pounds. chose because of Tom’s pas- Tom’s widow, Barbara, says ing program. He bought a couple Will bought land in Sedona in the 1920s, and “I gave that peach to a lady from Sun City, sion for Indian ruins, is a good Tom loved to be out in nature, of books and watched some he and his sons, Walter and George, planted on the condition that she show everyone she example. Most photographers like making photos. They were mar- online tutorials, and soon, he was an orchard of peach trees there. met that the best peaches in the world grow in to shoot ruins up close, but for this ried for 35 years, and even though teaching Chuck how to do it. “When I first arrived in Sedona in 1928, it Oak Creek Canyon,” he told Highways. shot, Tom pulled back, provid- Barbara is an amateur, the two When I look at Tom’s photos, I was just like God built,” Walter told Arizona In its prime, Jordan Ranch included 5,000 ing a sense of place and turning would hike for days in search admire his natural eye. Nothing Missions, Highways in 1987. “There were rattlesnakes, grapevines, 700 peach trees and more than Tuzigoot into the odd element in of ruins and other scenes to looks forced or contrived. And Barrios a beautiful environment. It’s like photograph. Tom taught biology his patience is evident: He was & Urban deer, mountain lions and even bear. But there 300 apple trees. It shipped fruit all over the Streetscapes weren’t many people.” country, as well as to England and Thailand. Our focus in February 1966 giving a landscape the Where’s at Phoenix College for more than known for waiting and waiting for Waldo? treatment. three decades, so he clearly had a the perfect light, wind or weather February 26-28, Tucson The census counted just 116 people in But after losing most of their crop in 1970 and was Lake Havasu, one of At this workshop, led by Tom, a longtime and frequent passion for the outdoors. conditions to make a shot. That Sedona in 1930. That was a big year for Walter. ’71, Walter and Ruth decided to sell. In 1972, Arizona’s most popular photographer Steven contributor to Arizona Highways His teaching wasn’t confined patience led to a long and prolific He married schoolteacher Ruth Woolf, bought they sold all but a few acres. They harvested recreational destinations. Meckler, the Old Pueblo’s and other publications, died to the classroom. Fellow photog- photography career, and it’s the historic barrios and out his father’s interest in the farm and broke their last commercial crop in 1973. The issue also highlighted November 1, 2015. He was 80. rapher Chuck Lawsen befriended reason one of Tom’s prints holds nearby Mission San Xavier the importance of the ground on a one-room cabin. Over the next Following Walter’s death in 1987, Ruth Tom took his last photo trip in Tom at a meeting of Arizona High- a cherished place in the living del Bac provide unique settings for lessons on seven years, Ruth gave birth to three children sold the homestead and remaining land to lake, which was named October, looking for fall color ways contributors in 1995. At that room of our publisher, Win Holden. — Annie, Ruthie and Walter Jr. — and the Jor- Sedona for $5. The land is now part of Jordan for the Havasupai word composition, lighting in the Chiricahua Mountains of time, photography was making Though we mourn Tom’s pass- and more. Information: dan home grew with the family. Historical Park, and the homestead houses the for “blue water,” as a Southeastern Arizona. He became the transition from film to digital, ing, we’re grateful for his stunning 888-790-7042 or www. By then, Walter had begun to plant his own Sedona Heritage Museum. source for irrigation and ill and decided to return home to and Chuck helped teach Tom the body of work. ahpw.org an economic resource for SEDONA Sedona Heritage Museum, 928-282-7038, www.sedonamuseum.org surrounding areas. To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com/photography.

8 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH: SEDONA HISTORICAL SOCIETY PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP TOM DANIELSEN ABOVE, RIGHT IVAN MARTINEZ www.arizonahighways.com 9 J iconic photographers

Esther Henderson

KAYLA FROST

sther Henderson didn’t plan on country until, in the mid-1930s, she decided to becoming a photographer, but set up her own studio in Tucson. when she wanted to trade her life After she proved her talent, Henderson E as a showgirl for something more made her living from making portraits in her professional, she flipped through the classified studio, but it was her landscape photographs ads until she figured out something she could of the Southwest that brought her worldwide do without a college education. Born in Illinois acclaim. She often traveled and worked but living in New York at the time, Henderson alongside her husband, photographer Chuck immediately bought a camera and enrolled in Abbott. Both photographers contributed to the New York Institute of Photography. When Arizona Highways for many years. In 2008, her three-month course was over, Henderson Henderson died at age 97 in Santa Cruz, worked in photography shops around the California.

ABOVE: Esther Henderson said she decided after meeting her future husband, Chuck Abbott, that “it might be pretty nice to have a man carry my equipment and drive the car.” RIGHT: Henderson’s photo of a trio of sycamores along Tucson’s Rillito River appeared in the December 1951 issue of Arizona Highways.

10 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPHS: ABOVE ARIZONA HIGHWAYS ARCHIVES RIGHT ESTHER HENDERSON www.arizonahighways.com 11 J dining nature J

a space in a Rio Rico shopping center, the former site of several failed Italian and Black-Necked Mexican restaurants. “In this area, there was no place for a Stilts good burger,” Rendon says. He gutted Black-necked stilts (Himantopus mexicanus) what was left of the previous Mexi- are frequently found wading on their thin, rosy can joint and turned it into Nickel’s, a legs through shallow water in open country. 1950s-themed diner that serves breakfast Their diet consists primarily of invertebrates, and lunch seven days a week. Why the tadpoles and seeds from aquatic plants. They ’50s? “Back then,” he says, “people did are gregarious, scattering while foraging and things right. People were honest.” roosting in smaller groups, and although It seems the town was ready for some- appearing delicate with slim features, they thing new, too. Rendon says business can thrive in sizzling temperatures. The sexes look the same, except during breeding season, has boomed since he opened in 2012, and when males develop a green gloss on their many loyal customers visit several times normally ebony-colored wings and back. a week — or even twice a day. One devo- These birds are all about equality — both tee, seated at the bar, tells a story about sexes help in nest construction, and both two people who visited from Phoenix a parents tend to their young. — Emily Lierle while back and asked him if the food was any good. “I told them, ‘Well, it’s been open for two years, and I haven’t left yet,’ ” he says, laughing. As you’d expect, bacon cheeseburgers and Philly cheesesteaks are popular lunch items, as is the slow-roasted barbecue, offered Monday through Friday. Meat lovers can get their choice of barbecued beef, chicken, ribs or pulled pork, along with two sides, for a mere $7. Breakfast includes French toast, omelets and fresh- baked cinnamon rolls and blueberry muffins. And the whole menu is always available. “You can show up at 6 a.m. and get a burger, or you can show up at 2 p.m. and have an omelet,” Rendon says. During a recent weekday lunch hour, the place is packed, as usual. Rendon Nickel’s Diner alternates between English and Spanish as he chats with his regulars. There’s an Before Nick Rendon opened Nickel’s Diner in 2012, Rio Rico was hurting for a easy, small-town camaraderie, and Ren- good burger. Now, happy patrons flock to the ’50s-themed space — sometimes don and his staff — many of whom have twice a day — for Rendon’s signature burgers, barbecue and breakfast plates. been showing up since opening day — take pride in making their customers feel NOAH AUSTIN right at home. That includes not having to deal with GENERALLY SPEAKING, lettuce and grilled, seasoned chicken breast with just the U.S. Mint’s most maligned denomi- tomatoes are the supporting actors of the the right amount of kick. nation. There aren’t any pennies here, sandwich world: If you notice them, it’s That comes as no surprise, though, because Rendon rounds all checks to the probably because they’re doing some- given that Nickel’s owner Nick Rendon nearest nickel — hence the name. “Pen- thing wrong. But on the spicy chicken knows his fruits and veggies. A native of nies are just a pain,” he says. sandwich at Nickel’s Diner, the crisp the Rio Rico area just north of Nogales, So, the worst-case scenario is that you lettuce and bright-red, juicy tomatoes Rendon spent 30 years in the produce might pay a few cents extra at Nickel’s make a compelling case for more screen industry. When he was ready to move on, Diner. Think of it as a worthwhile sur- time, forming a perfect complement to a he bought himself a “retirement gift”: charge for the best tomatoes around.

RIO RICO Nickel’s Diner, 1060 Yavapai Drive, Suite 1, 520-281-1040, www.nickelsdiner.com

12 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVEN MECKLER PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE D. TAUBERT www.arizonahighways.com 13 J lodging VACATION WITH FOREVER RESORTS Your Host to Southwest Canyonlands and Lakes

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Agua Prieta cooperative. Avenue Hotel B&B A barber pole still identifies the There was a time when guests at the Avenue Hotel would pay 50 cents second-floor barbershop, which contains to bathe in used bathwater. Things have improved dramatically since the a barber chair and shelves stocked with straight razors, various tinctures and a old building opened as a B&B in 2013. pair of dental-extraction forceps — early KATHY MONTGOMERY barbers also performed dentistry. Forever Resorts Vacations Houseboat/Powerboat Rentals Down the hall, one of the original guest Antelope Point Marina, Lake Powell, AZ HOSPITALITY AT THE AVENUE HOTEL B&B family closed the hotel in 1973 and used rooms serves as a media room stocked • Fully-furnished Houseboat Rentals Callville Bay Marina, Lake Mead, NV has come a long way since the adobe the building as a private residence. with films shot in Douglas or Southern Cottonwood Cove Marina, Lake Mohave, NV building’s early days. In 1901, the hotel Robin Brekhus, who managed the Arizona, including Arizona Dream, Termi- • Historic National Park Lodging Houseboats: 800.255.5561 featured a street-level café, 11 second-floor nearby Gadsden Hotel for 25 years, pur- nal Velocity and The Life and Times of Judge rooms with no heat or running water, a chased the building in 2007 and reopened Roy Bean. The hallway is decorated with • Colorado River Scenic Raft Tours Lodging shared bathroom and a barbershop. A bath it as a B&B in 2013. She retained histori- posters and movie memorabilia, including • Daily Powerboat & PWC Rentals Grand Canyon Lodge – North Rim, AZ in those days cost $1, though economy- cal features such as push-button lights, leggings and signed posters from Dances (opens May 15, 2016) minded guests could bathe in used water skylights and an annunciator, which With Wolves, which also has a local connec- Lodging: 877.386.4383 for 50 cents. guests used to signal the front desk. tion. Book author Michael Blake reportedly Mormon Lake Lodge 928.354.2227 A brick extension added a faux-marble “There never were phones here,” she says. had lost his job as a dishwasher in Bisbee lobby (pictured) and more than doubled She also preserved the restaurant, with when Kevin Costner asked him to work on Travel-Forever.com/16azhf Rafting the number of guest rooms in 1915. The its card room overlooking the dining the screenplay. Black Canyon River Adventures, NV Bruno family purchased the hotel in the room and bar. Guests are served break- The rooms in the original hotel still Rafting: 800.455.3490 late 1920s or early ’30s and operated it for fast daily, and on Friday and Saturday share a bathroom, though rooms on the decades as a railroad hotel, catering pri- nights, dinner is open to the public — “modern” side offer private lavatories. marily to railroad employees and ranch- reservations required. The house coffee is Even so, two bathing rooms and a water ers. Having lost its primary clientele after Café Justo (strongest flavors, maximum closet remain. Fresh water flows freely. the railroad pulled out of Douglas, the caffeine), roasted across the border at an No extra charge. facebook.com/travelforeverresorts DOUGLAS Avenue Hotel B&B, 1415 G Avenue, 520-234-3901, www.avenuehotelbb.com

Forever Resorts is an authorized Concessioner of the USDA Forest Service, the National Park Service and the Department of Interior to serve the public in the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Antelope Point Marina is owned and operated by Antelope Point Holdings L.L.C., an authorized Concessioner of the National Park Service, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. 14 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVEN MECKLER ARIZONA HIGHWAYS HISTORIC PLACES

Our fourth annual salute to the state’s most historic landmarks. This year’s class includes the Painted Desert Inn, Slaughter Ranch, Shumway School, the Pioneer Museum and the Copper Queen Hotel. BY NOAH AUSTIN PHOTOS BY MARK LIPCZYNSKI

16 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.comSlaughter Ranch17 HISTORIC PLACES

DIRECTIONS: From Douglas, go east on 15th Street, which turns into Geronimo Trail, SLAUGHTER RANCH for 16 miles to San Bernardino Road. Take Near Douglas a slight right onto San Bernardino Road, a well-maintained dirt road, and continue ohn Slaughter spoke softly and carried a big stick long employed 150 people, controlled 100,000 acres in the U.S. and 0.6 miles to Slaughter Ranch Museum, on 1884: before Teddy Roosevelt made it cool. Elected Cochise Mexico, and supplied beef and produce to area towns and mili- the left. The ranch is open from 9:30 a.m. John Slaughter, a Louisiana native County sheriff in 1886 — five years after the Gunfight at the tary posts. And, except for when Pancho Villa’s men showed to 3:30 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays; who previously ranched in Texas, buys a 99-year lease on 65,000 a $5 donation is requested for adult visitors, O.K. Corral — Slaughter patrolled the streets of Tombstone up, no shotgun was necessary. Ranching continued for nearly acres along the U.S.-Mexico border. Jwearing a pearl-handled .44 and packing a 10-gauge shotgun. six decades after the Slaughter family left the property. Today, and children are free. He politely asked troublemakers to leave town. And he didn’t it’s officially known as San Bernardino Ranch and is adjacent to CONSTRUCTED: 1893 (ranch house; 1887: ask twice: Legend has it the lawman killed at least a dozen San Bernardino National Wildlife Refuge. Its centerpieces are approximate) The ranch’s buildings are destroyed men “who had it comin’.” Slaughter is credited with helping to a large pond, built by Slaughter and fed by natural springs, and BUILDER: John Slaughter in a magnitude-7.6 earthquake. tame the Arizona Territory, and after four years as sheriff, he the restored ranch house, now a museum that gives visitors a INFORMATION: Slaughter Ranch, 520-678- The quake’s epicenter is in Sonora, Mexico, about 20 miles southeast of retired to his ranch east of Douglas. During its peak, the ranch glimpse of ranching the way it used to be. 7935 or www.slaughterranch.com the ranch.

1891: CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Slaughter Ranch’s cattle serve A U.S. claims court rules that only as ambassadors for the property and reminders of its 2,300 acres in the U.S. belong to history. The ranch is shown in the early 1900s. Sheep Slaughter, though he later buys and head for the ranch’s barn as a rainstorm approaches. leases about 100,000 acres on both The restored ranch house’s interior appears much as it sides of the border. did when John Slaughter called it home. 1893: Around this year, Slaughter completes the adobe ranch house that stands today. Its hipped rooflines and wide verandas recall Slaughter’s Southern roots.

1915-16: Pancho Villa, a leader of the Mexican Revolution, conducts raids on American and Mexican settlements near the border, including the Mexican side of Slaughter Ranch. The U.S. cavalry builds a small outpost on the American side of the ranch; its remains are still visible today.

1922: The Slaughter family leaves the ranch, leasing it to various tenants before selling it in 1937.

1966: Slaughter Ranch (officially San Bernardino Ranch) is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

1982: The Johnson Historical Museum of the Southwest buys the property to turn it into a museum. The restored ranch house opens in 1985.

18 FEBRUARY 2016 HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPH: ARIZONA STATE LIBRARY, ARCHIVES AND PUBLIC RECORDS www.arizonahighways.com 19 HISTORIC PLACES

1924: PAINTED DESERT INN Herbert Lore builds the original Petrified Forest National Park Painted Desert Inn, also known as the Stone Tree House, using local petrified wood held together with a tock-market turmoil took a toll on construction proj- mud mortar. ects in the 1930s, but the Painted Desert Inn was an exception. In 1936, the National Park Service bought 1936: the original inn, built 12 years earlier, with the intent The National Park Service purchases Sof rehabilitating it and adding running water and electric- the inn. Over the next four years, it ity. But that building was later deemed a lost cause. It wasn’t replaces the Stone Tree House with politically correct to fund new construction during the Great the new Painted Desert Inn, which features six small guest rooms with Depression, so the Park Service proceeded under the guise corner fireplaces. of “rebuilding,” even though little of the original structure was preserved. And when crews gathered wood for the inn’s 1940: roof from national forests, the Park Service called it “forest The new inn, managed by the Fred thinning” to avoid scrutiny. Lyle Bennett designed the new Harvey Co., opens to the public. It structure, which features the adobe façade and pine-beam ceil- later closes during World War II ings typical of the Pueblo Revival style. The inn hasn’t hosted before reopening in 1946. overnight guests since the 1950s, but today, the Park Service 1947-48: operates it as a museum and gift shop, and it endures as one of Fred Harvey architect Mary Jane the few Depression-era structures in America’s national parks. Colter redesigns the inn’s interior and commissions murals by Hopi DIRECTIONS: From Holbrook, go additional fee to visit the inn. artist Fred Kabotie. east on Interstate 40 for 26 miles CONSTRUCTED: 1937-40 to Petrified Forest National Park BUILDERS: Civilian Conservation 1963: (Exit 311). The Painted Desert Corps and National Park Service The Fred Harvey Co. abandons the inn. Inn is located along the main INFORMATION: Petrified Forest road through the park. There is National Park, 928-524-6228 or 1975: a fee to enter the park but no www.nps.gov/pefo After a public campaign prevents its demolition, the Painted Desert Inn is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Eleven years later, it becomes a National Historic Landmark.

2006: The restored Painted Desert Inn reopens as a Park Service museum.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Murals painted by Hopi artist Fred Kabotie grace the restored interior of the Painted Desert Inn, which now serves as a museum and gift shop. The inn’s adobe façade dates to the late 1930s. Stools at the ice cream and soda bar reference the building’s Native American heritage. The inn is shown in 1940, the year it opened.

20 FEBRUARY 2016 HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK SERVICE www.arizonahighways.com 21 HISTORIC PLACES

COPPER QUEEN HOTEL 1902: The Copper Queen Hotel opens. The Bisbee four-floor hotel, built by a subsidiary of Phelps, Dodge & Co., has 72 rooms, ou wouldn’t guess it today, but Bisbee once was Ameri- to build: Part of the mountainside had to be blasted away, and DIRECTIONS: The Copper plus an adjacent courtyard building ca’s largest community between St. Louis and San Fran- water had to be pumped uphill from Main Street. Once the Queen Hotel is located at with offices. cisco, with a population of more than 20,000 in the early hotel opened, though, it was state of the art: It featured 2-foot- 11 Howell Avenue in Bisbee. 1900s. The town owed its prosperity to the Mule Moun- thick walls to keep it cool in the summer, along with Tiffany- CONSTRUCTED: 1898-1902 1920s: Ytains’ abundant minerals — particularly copper, which earned glass fittings on the Palm Room’s cathedral ceiling. Today, the BUILDER: Copper Queen Prostitute Julia Lowell hosts Bisbee the nickname of “Queen of the Copper Camps.” Into Tiffany glass is gone, but the hotel retains much of its original Consolidated Mining Co. customers at the Copper Queen. According to legend, she falls in the mining boom came the Copper Queen Hotel, constructed charm, along with other reminders of the past: At least three INFORMATION: Copper love with one of the men, and after around the turn of the century as a place for dignitaries and ghosts of people who died at or near the Copper Queen are pur- Queen Hotel, 520-432-2216 he rejects her, she takes her own Copper Queen Mine investors to stay. It wasn’t an easy hotel ported to haunt its halls. or www.copperqueen.com life. Today, she’s purported to roam the third floor, especially Room 315, which is named for her.

1955: The crime drama Violent Saturday hits theaters. The movie, which stars Lee Marvin and Ernest Borgnine, features the Copper Queen and other locations in Bisbee.

1975: Phelps Dodge Corp. closes the Copper Queen Mine. The following year, the Queen Mine Tour, an idea spearheaded by Bisbee Mayor Chuck Eads, opens to help offset the economic hit from the mine closing.

1990s: A major renovation is completed. Today, the Copper Queen rents 53 rooms, including nine specialty rooms, and is considered the oldest continuously operating hotel in Arizona.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: History lives on at the Copper Queen Hotel’s restaurant, which boasts that “98 percent” of its menu is priced at $10 or less. The hotel is shown around its opening in 1902. The Copper Queen’s lobby includes the original oak desk and mosaic- tile floor. The hotel remains an icon of once- bustling Bisbee.

22 FEBRUARY 2016 HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPH: ARIZONA STATE LIBRARY, ARCHIVES AND PUBLIC RECORDS www.arizonahighways.com 23 HISTORIC PLACES

SHUMWAY SCHOOL 1900s: Shumway The Shumway School building is completed. Over the years, the new arry Muder was one of the last students to attend class at building is used for school, church Shumway School. Later, Muder told a newspaper reporter services, holiday parties, dances and about “Giant Stride,” one of the games he and other kids even funerals. would play at recess: A long pole in the ground had five 1915: Lor six chains attached to the top, and children would grab a The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- chain and run around the pole until their feet left the ground. day Saints organizes a ward in “Sometimes one person would take it out really far and catch Shumway. the other kids,” he said. “It was a dangerous activity, but we were tougher than kids are now.” Toughness was a necessity in 1940s: the tiny, remote community of Shumway, founded by Mormon Shumway’s ward is absorbed into settlers in the late 19th century. The one-room schoolhouse, Taylor’s ward after it becomes difficult to staff. The Shumway made of locally fired red bricks, is tough, too: It’s been stand- School is abandoned, and the ing since the 1900s, though it hasn’t been used for school since town’s children are bused to Taylor the 1940s. In recent years, it’s undergone a massive renovation for school. by the Taylor/Shumway Heritage Foundation, which stabilized its foundation and repaired its brick walls. Guided tours of the 1979: restored building are available by appointment. The tours do The deteriorating building is added not include Giant Stride, but that’s probably for the best. to the National Register of Historic Places.

DIRECTIONS: From Show Low, and Old Mill roads. 1990: go north on State Route 77 for CONSTRUCTED: 1900 Shumway residents replace the 11 miles to Shumway Road. Turn BUILDERS: Various Shumway schoolhouse’s roof, the first major right onto Shumway Road and residents improvement to the building in continue a quarter-mile to the INFORMATION: Taylor/Shumway decades. schoolhouse, located on the Heritage Foundation, 928-243- northwest corner of Shumway 2608 or 928-536-7665 1999: The Taylor/Shumway Heritage Foundation is incorporated, and the schoolhouse site, owned by Navajo County, is deeded to the group. Over the next few years, the group completes a massive restoration of the building, funded in part by an Arizona State Parks grant.

2001: The restored schoolhouse is dedicated. It features vintage furnishings and photographs, and visitors can see where schoolchildren etched their names into the soft bricks.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Students haven’t filled the desks at the meticulously restored Shumway School since the 1940s. Carmen Shumway, a member of the town’s founding family, leads tours of the restored schoolhouse. Photos of former teachers are displayed above a roll-top desk at the school. A photo of the building from before renovation shows its deterioration.

24 FEBRUARY 2016 HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK SERVICE www.arizonahighways.com 25 HISTORIC PLACES

DIRECTIONS: From downtown Flagstaff, go PIONEER MUSEUM north on Humphreys Street for 0.6 miles to Fort Flagstaff Valley Road. Turn left onto Fort Valley Road and continue 1.3 miles to the Pioneer Museum, located he building that today houses the Pioneer Museum is decades as a boarding house before becoming a museum, which at 2340 N. Fort Valley Road. The museum is open 1908: 108 years old, but if you want its true origin, you’ll have today is operated by the Arizona Historical Society. It provides from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. The Coconino County Hospital for to go back further — a lot further. Half a million years a glimpse of life in Flagstaff’s early days through exhibits on Admission is $6 for adults but is free for Arizona the Indigent is completed. Patients grow vegetables in the hospital’s ago, Elden Mountain, a lava-dome volcano northeast of ranching, logging and transportation. There also are remnants Historical Society members. yard, earning the hospital the TFlagstaff, blew its top, ejecting a type of volcanic rock called of the building’s hospital days, including an iron lung and CONSTRUCTED: 1908 nickname of “the poor farm.” pumiceous dacite that proved to be fireproof and lighter than antique surgical equipment. And train buffs will appreciate BUILDER: Coconino County sandstone. That rock was used to build the Coconino County Locomotive No. 12, a 1929 Baldwin steam engine that’s wel- INFORMATION: Pioneer Museum, 928-774-6272; 1917: Hospital for the Indigent, which served the county’s poorest comed visitors to the museum since 1994. In short, there’s Arizona Historical Society, www.arizonahistorical Salaries at the hospital include $90 patients for 30 years. After that, the building spent another two plenty to see. That is, until Elden Mountain erupts again. society.org/museums a month for the superintendent and $60 a month for the cook.

1938: After the start of federal and state programs to care for the indigent, the county hospital closes.

1960: The Northern Arizona Pioneers’ Historical Society buys the structure, which had been serving as a boarding house, with the intent of turning it into a museum.

1963: The first floor of the building opens as a museum. A few years later, the museum expands to the second floor.

2014: The Pioneer Museum undergoes refurbishing to bring it closer to its historical roots. It also adds a non- circulating library that is open for public research.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Coconino County Hospital for the Indigent is shown in 1914. Ponderosa pines surround the building, now the Pioneer Museum. A 1929 Baldwin steam engine marks the museum’s location on Fort Valley Road. The museum’s Doney Cabin once was the home of Benjamin Doney, a prominent Flagstaff rancher, prospector and politician.

26 FEBRUARY 2016 HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPH: ARIZONA HISTORICAL SOCIETY www.arizonahighways.com 27 Trees along a reflecting pool at Red Rock Crossing show their autumn colors in early November. “I would guess I’ve photographed Red Rock Crossing and Cathedral Rock more than anywhere else in the world,” says photographer and Sedona resident Derek von Briesen. “There’s such diversity of subject matter, and every season has its characteristics.” RED

Along with the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley and the saguaro forests of the Sonoran Desert, the red rocks of Sedona are recognized around the world. And of all the red rocks, ROCK CROSSING the most famous is Cathedral Rock, which anchors a place called Red Rock Crossing. A PORTFOLIO BY DEREK VON BRIESEN

28 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 29 PRECEDING PANEL: Trees along Oak Creek at Red Rock Crossing show their late- autumn colors below Cathedral Rock. “I would guess I’ve photographed Red Rock Crossing and Cathedral Rock more than anywhere else in the world,” says photographer and Sedona resident Derek von Briesen. “There’s such diversity of subject matter, and every season has its characteristics.” LEFT: Von Briesen made this photo on New Year’s Eve in 2014. “The coldest and lowest-elevation storm in Sedona in almost 50 years draped the bare trees along Oak Creek in 6 inches of snow,” he says. “I’d waited 13 years for a snow like this. Clear skies the next day made for an incredible start to the new year.” ABOVE: Beneath Cathedral Rock, mature cottonwoods and sycamores flank old buildings at Crescent Moon Ranch. Von Briesen calls this classic composition “a moment of winter calm and soft light.”

30 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 31 “Catch Sedona in the summer, with a dramatic monsoon storm as a backdrop and the summer sun at its closest, and you’ll see some of the most dramatic light on the planet,” von Briesen says. “This rainbow lasted for almost 45 minutes and was the most intense I’ve ever experienced.”

32 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 33 LEFT: A winter sun creates deep shadows on the face of Cathedral Rock. Von Briesen notes the “strikingly clear sky” in this photo. RIGHT, ABOVE: Oak Creek reflects what von Briesen calls “an electric-green kaleidoscope of spring grasses.” He adds that the photo is a good reminder: “Don’t forget to look down.” RIGHT: Emerald, gold and sapphire hues are reflected as the creek flows over shadowed riffles. Von Briesen likes the “abstract realism” of this photo.

34 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 35 A shadowed pool on the creek reflects the sandstone buttes, green foliage and blue sky. “A move of mere inches can frame one of these “Though it’s rarely without a tripod in position during the waning hours of the day, I still find Red Rock Crossing a special place — quiet, peaceful and full of spiritual energy.” — DEREK VON BRIESEN priceless gifts perfectly,” von Briesen says.

36 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 37 GRAINS SUPREME Jeff Zimmerman moved to Arizona from North Dakota in 1972. In 2011, he reincarnated Hayden Flour Mills. And today, he’s part of a growing national movement of farmers, chefs and food artisans working not only to revive heritage grains — robust, farmer-maintained ancient varieties that do not include artificially induced genetics — but also to mill them properly, thereby retaining their flavor and nutrients instead of refining them to a fluffy, flavorless fare-thee-well.

BY NIKKI BUCHANAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACQUES BARBEY

38 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 39 Arizona boasts purple mountain majesties visionary who’s making it happen. like no other, but when it comes to amber Like Ringo Starr, he gets by with a waves of grain, we’re probably not the little help from his friends, and they’re a pretty high-powered bunch. Five years first — or even the fifth — state that comes ago, when Zimmerman started asking to mind. So here’s the shocker: Among lots of seed-related questions to anyone who might have answers, agricultural grain gurus, Arizona is known for grow- ecologist, ethnobotanist and author ing the highest-quality durum wheat in Gary Nabhan, who also founded Tuc- son’s Native Seeds/SEARCH, stepped the world. Hot days, cool nights and lack up, putting him in touch with pioneer- ing grain preservationist Glenn Roberts, of rain during the harvest period produce near-perfect who founded the famous Anson Mills in wheat, dry and unspoiled by sprout damage. In 2014, South Carolina. As it turned out, Rob- erts had been supplying flour to James according to the federal Department of Agri- Beard Award-winning pizza culture, Arizona produced nearly 8 million savant Chris Bianco (of Pizzeria Bianco and Pane Bianco in Phoe- bushels of durum wheat; in the U.S., that nix), who had told Roberts, more trailed only North Dakota and Montana. times than Roberts could count, how much he lamented not being But most of Arizona’s wheat is shipped to able to use local wheat for his Italy to be turned into pasta, which partly breads and pies. To Zimmerman and all con- explains why Arizona’s wheat industry has cerned, it felt like destiny was remained a secret. knocking. Roberts donated thou- sands of pounds of heritage seeds You’d think Jeff Zimmerman, owner lihood, and the impact of that stayed to Native Seeds/SEARCH, which, in of the recently reincarnated Hayden with him for years. His consciousness turn, donated 2,000 pounds of white Flour Mills, would find these statistics was raised even further by his wife, Sonora wheat to Zimmerman’s cause. heartening. He’s got one of only two Maureen, a registered dietitian nutri- Roberts’ donation was the kick-start mills in a state that produces bushels tionist and sustainability teacher who Zimmerman needed, and white Sonora, and bushels of wheat (the state’s other fed the family humanely raised meats which represented the cultural “patri- mill is Bay State Milling in Tolleson). and locally grown, heirloom vegetables mony” Roberts had urged Zimmerman But the modern wheat varieties that long before “heritage” was the buzz- to find, made the perfect gift. farmers worldwide cultivate for their word du jour. “We were way ahead of White Sonora has a rich history in the high yields hold no interest for this for- the curve on that one,” he says without mer North Dakota farm boy, whose fam- a trace of one-upmanship. But all that ily moved to Arizona in 1972. healthy eating got him thinking: If peo- Zimmerman saw firsthand what hap- ple were interested in heirloom meats pened to wheat-farming and to wheat and vegetables, why not heritage grains? itself in the 1960s, when old-fashioned Zimmerman now is part of a grow- agriculture gave way to new-fashioned ing national movement of farmers, chefs agribusiness. Thanks to Norman Bor- and food artisans working not only to laug’s “Green Revolution” (when high revive heritage grains — robust, farmer- wheat output saved the lives of starving maintained ancient varieties that do not people in Third World countries), wheat include artificially induced genetics — soon became a different plant from the but also to mill them properly, thereby one our ancestors knew. retaining their flavor and nutrients Zimmerman also witnessed how instead of refining them to a fluffy, fla- disconnected his farming friends had vorless fare-thee-well. Here in Arizona, become from their land and their live- Zimmerman is the mild-mannered

RIGHT: Sheaves of heritage wheat are stored at Hayden Flour Mills in Queen Creek. With a stem length of 36 to 40 inches, heritage wheat grows much taller than modern wheat, which typically is about 18 inches tall. OPPOSITE PAGE: Hayden Flour miller Ben Butler, right, and his assistant, Jonathan Young, transfer grain from a large bag into a smaller bag so it can be milled.

40 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 41 West, as Nabhan describes in The Rising Sonora for decades after the been growing for decades. of White Sonora Wheat, a 2012 article in Gila and Salt rivers were The seeds were in the Heirloom Gardener magazine. Introduced dammed, the wheat’s heyday ground, and Zimmerman to the people of the Sonoran Desert in was over by the 1930s. By would soon be ready to use the mid-1600s by Spanish missionaries the time Zimmerman was his traditional stone mill. It (who would use it for Holy Communion nurturing his seedling of an was imported from Austria, wafers), it’s a wheat with soft, blush- idea, white Sonora had been one of a handful of European colored grains that make faintly sweet, forgotten by all but a handful countries where both mill- wonderfully stretchy dough, perfect for of food historians and preser- ing and baking are small-batch tender baked goods and flour tortillas. vationists. traditions. For those of us who are The grain became a staple crop through- Scoring the seeds of what was once Arizona bred and buttered, it’s hard to out northwestern Mexico, California the region’s most popular wheat was imagine that Zimmerman’s 1,600-pound and the Southwest, and remained so for a coup, but then Zimmerman had to wooden mill could easily fit into some- hundreds of years. Enterprising Pima find farmers willing to grow what must one’s living room. We can’t shake the Indians grew it for export in the late have seemed too precious a product image of the Hayden Flour Mill (circa 1800s. Although a few Native American for a boutique market. Steve Sossa- 1918). Made of reinforced concrete, it tribes continued to dry-farm white man, whose great-grandparents started still sits on Mill Avenue at downtown farming in Queen Creek in 1919, was Tempe’s northern edge. But it is not the the first farmer Zimmerman says was original, river-powered mill founded by Early in the morning, Ben Butler, the miller at “crazy enough to do it.” In 2011, Sos- Charles Trumbull Hayden in 1874; that Hayden Flour Mills, jots down his mill plan for the day. The facility mills four or five types of saman planted 30 of his 800 acres in mill was lost to fire 20 years later. Nor is grain each day to fill incoming orders, owner Jeff white Sonora, red fife and emmer farro, it the second, adobe incarnation, which Zimmerman says. reserving the rest for cattle feed he’d burned to the ground in 1917. The grain

TOP: Al James, a Pima Indian, is a longtime farmhand at Sossaman Farms, where Hayden Flour Mills is located. “White Sonora wheat is what Al’s grandparents and great-grandparents would have grown,” Zimmerman says. ABOVE, LEFT: A 1960s-era Case tractor serves as a reminder of Sossaman Farms’ history. ABOVE: Miller Ben Butler displays a photo of the July 2015 harvest on his iPhone.

42 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 43 CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Ben Butler elevator and massive silos that stand nessman who brought the community Zimmerman space for his mill in the includes his daughter Emma, who man- referring to Emma, Ben and Sossa- examines flour by hand after grinding it in east of the mill we see today were built together through the mill. He was the backroom of Pane Bianco, and Hayden ages day-to-day operations, and his man’s two daughters, Taylor Tolmachoff Hayden Flour Mills’ 1,600-pound wooden mill. Grain enters the mill from a hopper, in 1951, and despite the name, they have sort of guy who somehow misplaced his Flour Mills was reborn. meticulous miller, Ben Butler — have and Caroline Sossaman, who also are and a piece called a damsel helps feed far less to do with Hayden than they do ledger after a devastating flood, thereby Five years later, more than 15 Arizona recently moved operations to a renovated involved with the mill. it into the millstones. Various sifting with modern-day industrial milling. wiping clean the debt his customers farms have jumped on Zimmerman’s pole barn at Sossaman Farms in Queen At the moment, however, Zimmer- screens are used to produce different types of flour. Butler displays a scoop Nevertheless, Zimmerman jumped and friends would have been hard put not-so-zany bandwagon by growing Creek. Ever the idea guy, Zimmerman man busies himself with a new product of finely sifted flour from the mill. at the chance to buy the Hayden Flour to repay. nearly a dozen different heritage grains, has big plans for the sparkling space, line: Hayden Flour Mills wheat crackers Mill name, which represented Arizona’s Zimmerman liked these stories. He including barley, rye and Chapalote including solar-power installation. made with white Sonora, red fife, blue agricultural history so well. It became liked thinking about bringing a modern corn. Local restaurants such as Crudo, In the years to come, Zimmerman beard durum and farro. Zimmerman available when, after a 17-year-run, Bay community together in much the same Essence Bakery Café, FnB, Gertrude’s, and Sossaman envision what they call a likes the tagline “Taste the Grain,” State Milling ceased operations at the way that Hayden had. He also thought Otro, Southern Rail and Tarbell’s buy “heritage corner,” where grain-oriented which seems to fit for a guy who has original mill site in 1998. Zimmerman’s it might be worthwhile to educate the milled grain from Hayden Flour Mills, operations such as a bakery and a brew- already proved that going against the extensive research told him that Hayden public about flour and encourage people as do dozens of restaurants elsewhere in ery might open on the property. Down grain often has its sweet reward. — the co-founder of Tempe, and the to think as Europeans do: that freshness the state and as far away as Pennsylva- the road, Zimmerman says, “the old Hayden Flour Mills is located at 22100 S. Sossaman father of Arizona’s beloved Senator Carl and quality take precedence over price. nia, Texas and New York. hippie guys will move on, letting the Road in Queen Creek. For more information, call 480- Hayden — was a kindhearted busi- In 2011, Bianco, a kindred spirit, offered Zimmerman and his crew — which millennials carry this forward.” He’s 557-0031 or visit www.haydenflourmills.com.

44 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 45 ∂ ∂ ∂ ∂ ∂

Of the 532 Frank Lloyd Wright designs that were built, some experts say the David and Gladys Wright House in Phoenix is among the 20 most important. QUITE WRIGHT Although it had long ago faded from the public imagination, it was thrust into the spotlight in 2012, when a developer planned to demolish the iconic structure to make way for new homes. That’s when a kid from the neighborhood stepped in.

BY MATT JAFFE ∂ PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK BOISCLAIR

The unique shape of the David and Gladys Wright House conjures many interpretations. Some visitors say it resembles a coiled rattlesnake; others see a Gila monster.

46 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 47 ∂∂∂∂∂

OPPOSITE PAGE: The house’s living room features whimsical carpet and a curving ceiling s I catch my first glimpse of the David and made of Philippine Gladys Wright House in Phoenix’s Arcadia mahogany panels. BELOW: Towers and neighborhood, one word pops into my head: chimneys lend the playful. It doesn’t seem like that could be the structure a castle-like proper reaction to a building with this one’s quality. architectural pedigree. Built between 1950 and A1952, the circular concrete-block house opposite Camelback Mountain was designed by none other than Frank Lloyd henever I walk into a landmark building, I feel like Wright, David’s father. I’ve entered the architect’s mind — and Wright’s I associate a lot of words with Frank Lloyd Wright: genius, W brain is quite a place to spend the afternoon. As demigod, visionary. But Wright was not only an icon — he was colorful as the living room’s balloon-inspired carpet may be an iconoclast, too. So, over his 91 years, he earned a host of less (Wright filled his children’s toy room with balloons on their flattering descriptions, some of which he happily embraced: birthdays), it’s the complex geometry of the curving Philippine imperious, arrogant, megalomaniacal. Of course, the positives mahogany ceiling that commands my attention. Hand-cut on and negatives were by no means mutually exclusive for a man site, the ceiling is an intricate puzzle, with no two pieces the as complex as Wright. same size. I stay back a distance, then take a walk around the house Ever in control, Wright took few chances with how he for a closer look. The curving, cantilevered living quarters sit wanted people, including David and Gladys, to experience the atop a set of piers, while towers and chimneys add a castle-like house. Levi points out the built-in headboards in the bedrooms character to the building. The roofline extends over windows and how Wright was directing the view from the moment a trimmed with weathered wood, and under sunlight soft- sleeper woke up. The same is true of the house’s orientation ened by monsoonal overcast, the concrete-block walls almost to Camelback, which Rawling says was clearly stage-managed. resemble shingles. Sections of the house also remind me of the “There are too many clues that suggest he wanted to force your wide-brimmed pork pie hats, always worn to jaunty perfection, mind to look at it from certain angles,” he says. “If altered to that Wright preferred. any degree, the impact wouldn’t be the same.” Several people descend the graceful spiral ramp that follows the house’s rounded contours. Among them are Zachary Rawling, who bought the structure in 2012 after it was nearly demolished, and Sarah Levi, Wright’s great-great-granddaughter and now the house’s scholar-in-residence. The soft-spoken and friendly Rawling has a hint of formality about him; Levi, a relaxed ease. We exchange the usual pleas- antries before I say: “I’ve been to a number of Wright houses, but this one seems a bit different. It has an almost whimsical quality about it.” Rawling smiles and replies, “Oh, yes. There’s no question Wright was having fun with the design. There’s a lot of joy in it. This was one of only two homes that he created for his children. He went for it, design-wise. He was 84 when he received the letter from his son [asking him to design it], and this house was a culmination of a life spent in architecture. You can see elements from his entire career that are integrated and emphasized here.” Though Wright was no literalist, people project many interpretations onto the house. This is architecture as Rorschach test. Some notice the tooth-like detail running along the fas- cia and see a dragon’s head. More appropriate to the desert, visitors have envisioned the building as a Gila monster. Still others construe the way the building circles back in on itself, and around a garden and pool, as Wright’s attempt to conjure a coiled rattlesnake. It’s also natural to speculate whether Wright, ever attuned to ancient forms, drew inspiration from the familiar spiral symbol present in Native American petro- glyph panels. Especially because he titled the architectural drawings for the house How to Live in the Southwest.

48 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 49 ∂∂∂∂∂

OPPOSITE PAGE: “He was 90-some years old and would still be up in the trees Having been saved from demolition, the with a chain saw, trying to trim branches or pick oranges,” Wright House could Levi says. soon see new life as a cultural center and onsidering the building’s significance, both on its own performance venue. BELOW: A circular merits and as a precursor of sorts to Wright’s most window brings ample famous circular design — the 1959 Solomon R. Gug- light into the house’s C kitchen. genheim Museum in New York — it’s almost inconceivable that the Wright House was days away from demolition in 2012. Of the 532 Wright designs that were built, some experts place the Wright House among the 20 most important build- and the possible commercialization of the property. In an open ings of the architect’s career. But the structure had long ago letter to Rawling, one resident decried the prospect of the house faded from the public imagination. Except for its kitchen tower, being “turned into a Graceland of sorts to honor Mr. Wright.” the house remained virtually invisible from the street. Even Inspired by the tradition of music and dance events at many Arcadia residents didn’t know it existed. Though few Taliesin West and other Wright locations, Rawling says he outsiders ever saw the Wright House, it remained a place of believes architecture should incorporate all the arts: “If it’s pilgrimage for architects and students at Taliesin West, some simply a house museum where people take a tour and leave, of whom trespassed for a view. “People tell me, ‘Oh, I tried to it’s not a living tradition. We want people to form their own get on the property and your great-grandfather chased me off,’ ” memories and to be active participants in continuing the legacy Levi says. “It’s kind of fun, because that’s how he could be.” of the house. And we plan to be maximally deferential to both When the house was sold after Gladys’ death in 2008, the the historic structure and the neighborhood.” (At press time, Wright family assumed the new owners would preserve it. But the process of obtaining a permit for Rawling’s plans for the then the house was sold again in 2010, this time to a develop- site is ongoing.) ment company that planned to split the lot and build new homes. The lot division “ran through the front door of the house,” Levi says, and a demolition permit was issued. After seeing the house he was hired to tear down, the contractor, concerned that a Wright design might be destroyed in error, contacted the city, which voided the permit. Rawling grew up less than 3 miles from the Wright House, at Wright thought of any house that he built as somehow his David didn’t shy away from pushing back against his formi- 36th Street and Medlock Drive. His mother, Katharine, an ele- own, but David and Gladys added their own tangible presence dable father. mentary-school teacher, had attended architecture school at Ari- and turned a masterpiece into a home. An interior curtain hangs In 1953, Wright was dissatisfied with the way the house zona State University and came to revere Wright. Once Rawling from a decidedly non-Wrightian fishing rod, and one of Gladys’ appeared in a magazine shoot by Pedro Guerrero, with whom learned to ride a bike, he and his mother would pedal along the old wooden cooking spoons props open a kitchen window. he had worked closely since 1939. Although the publication, Arizona Canal to see the Wright-influenced Arizona Biltmore Now it’s Levi’s turn here. “I can still walk into the bath- House and Home, was perfectly happy with the photography, and peek at the Wright House. Eventually, they took architec- rooms and smell their soap,” she says. “Even with the change Wright insisted on a follow-up session. Guerrero returned from tural road trips to visit Wright buildings around the country. All of ownership, Wrights have been the only ones to live in the New York, probably for just a couple of pictures. four years of college at the University of Virginia, Rawling kept a home. I grew up coming here, but it’s different to experience At the house, Wright didn’t like the way the bougainvillea poster of the Wright House on his dorm-room wall. the house as a living structure for myself, versus someplace I fell from the roof terrace, Guerrero recalled. David loved his An attorney by training, Rawling was working in Las Vegas just visited as a child.” bougainvillea and had trained the vine just the way he wanted. building custom homes when noted architect Wallace Cun- Among life’s truisms, the notion that you should never go David noticed Wright and Guerrero fussing with the plant and ningham, a onetime Taliesin West student, told him about the into business with family is among the most irrefutable. That confronted them. Father and son then engaged in a tense stare- Wright House’s possible demolition. Almost immediately, Raw- We settle into the master bedroom to take in what must be goes double for designing and building a house with relatives. down before the great man angrily roared off in one of the ling moved to purchase the house, closing the deal in late 2012. the definitive view of Camelback. There’s a break in the mon- But if you’re David and Gladys Wright and you just purchased more than 50 cars he owned — most of them painted Cherokee If not a fixer-upper, the Wright House needs fixing up. soonal clouds, and their shadows race across the mountain’s 10 acres 16 miles from your renowned father’s Taliesin West, red — but not before taking two bushels of grapefruits from “The building, overall, is fragile,” Rawling says. “In the 1950s, face as the light in the room brightens and dims almost by the you can’t exactly call up and say, “Pops, we’ve decided to go the citrus grove. Wright was pushing all of the materials to the limit of their second. The house, Camelback and the clouds seem of a piece. with Paolo Soleri for the new digs.” David apologized to Guerrero, explaining, “If I let Dad win physical capacities. Our cantilever is out of level almost “Every time of day, every season of the year, the light on the While two of his brothers followed their father into archi- this one, I will never win another one.” The bougainvillea, by 2 inches and continuing to fall. The restoration is all about mountain does different things,” Rawling says. “From here, tecture, David was no slouch when it came to building. He the way, still grows at the house. bringing life back to the original materials. And we want to Camelback looks gold on some mornings at sunrise. A lot of worked for the Besser Co., which manufactured machinery David and Gladys spent five decades in the house. He lived make sure the structure lasts for centuries.” days, it goes bright red right at twilight. Then, as the mon- that fabricated concrete blocks. “I’m a pretty good amateur to 102, she to 104. When they moved in, no homes cluttered Rawling earned plaudits for saving the house, but his ambi- soons come, you get the storm light and lightning behind the engineer,” he told Wright biographer Brendan Gill, and David Camelback’s lower slopes. Orange groves stretched along Arca- tious plans to make the Wright House the focus of a cultural mountain’s silhouette. This house is a never-ending celebration ended up acting as general contractor during construction. dia’s dirt roads, and from the house’s elevated perspective, the center that would include an underground educational facility of desert life.” Wright had planned to build the house of wood, but David Wrights could look toward Camelback over the tops of their and a sunken garden pavilion, which could accommodate per- helped influence the switch to concrete block, which for- citrus trees, a blanket of greenery so unbroken that it came to formances and community gatherings, drew heated criticism For more information on the David and Gladys Wright House, call 602-689-6140 tunately was a favorite building material of his father’s. But be known as “David’s Lawn.” from some Arcadia residents. They worried about noise, traffic or visit www.davidwrighthouse.org.

50 FEBRUARY 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 51 scenic DRIVE

PRESCOTT TO CROWN KING This scenic drive, which begins and ends among towering ponderosa pines, features a range of ecosystems in between, as well as some interesting Arizona history. BY KATHY MONTGOMERY

eton and concrete base at Mile 10. Operating off and on from 1865 to the 1930s, the mine was one of the longest- running operations in the Bradshaws. The men who staked the claim included Territorial Governor John Goodwin and Secretary Richard McCormick, who later became governor. The mine’s name may tering through backlit oaks and bigtooth the community once was a booming have stemmed from the men’s ambitions maples. mining town with a railroad and several for Arizona statehood and ascension to A little more than halfway, we come saloons. Today, it’s home to about 100 the U.S. Senate. to Palace Station, a hand-hewn log build- full-time residents, along with cabin After crossing the Hassayampa ing that served as a stage stop until 1910. rentals, a historic saloon-hotel and a gen- River, just a creek here, the road nar- Continuing on, Gambel oaks give way to eral store. Return the same way, or take rows, becoming rough enough to slow evergreen oaks and, ultimately, desert the gentler route through Bumble Bee to us down to 10 to 15 mph, but we don’t scrub oaks. But up ahead, we see the Interstate 17. mind. It’s a beautiful stretch, with pon- ponderosa pine forest that shelters our derosa pines mixing with Douglas firs destination. and Gambel oaks. Once the road again begins to climb, SCENIC We nearly miss the turn onto Forest we move quickly back into the pines. We DRIVES of Arizona’s ADDITIONAL READING: Best Back Road 52, marked only by a post on which pass the site of Bradshaw City — named 40 Roads For more adventure, pick up a copy of our book Scenic Drives, someone has written “C. King” and an for William Bradshaw, who discovered which features 40 of the arrow to the right. As the road descends, minerals in these mountains in the mid- state’s most beautiful back beautiful vistas open up: distant moun- 1860s — before arriving at Crown King. roads. To order, visit www.

Edited by Robert Stieve shoparizonahighways.com/ tains falling away in layers, the light fil- Named for the Crowned King Mine, and Kelly Vaughn Kramer books.

he routes to Crown King are as oldest streets in Prescott. Here, mature prospected this area in the 1860s. numerous as the mines that once elms shade well-tended lawns and fine At about 6 miles, we reach the turnoff TOUR GUIDE Tdotted the Bradshaw Mountains, examples of Craftsman bungalows and for the Groom Creek Schoolhouse. Now Note: Mileages are approximate. where the popular tourist destination is Victorian homes, which document the owned by the U.S. Forest Service, the LENGTH: 37 miles one way located. The 37-mile drive from Prescott evolving tastes of the Territorial capital. historic two-room stone building served DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of Gurley Street and Mount Vernon Avenue in Prescott, go south on Mount along Senator Highway is one of the In a half-mile, the road becomes Sena- as a school until the 1950s. The day-use Vernon Avenue, which becomes Senator Highway (Forest nicest. It begins and ends in ponderosa tor Highway, named for the Senator Mine. area includes a picnic area and a paved Road 56), for 12.5 miles to Forest Road 52. Turn right onto FR 52 and continue 24.5 miles to Crown King. pine forest and takes in a little of every- The oldest section was built in 1866 as a interpretive trail. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: A high-clearance, four-wheel- thing in between — from mixed-conifer toll road. It was extended to the Senator Past Groom Creek, the pavement ends. drive vehicle is recommended. Don’t attempt the drive in forests with bigtooth maples and Gambel Mine in 1875, then to Crown King, bit by On the right side of the road, we watch for wet weather. oaks to high-desert chaparral — all rich bit, over the following decade. the remains of Maxton, where the Senator WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of with history. It’s a beautiful, half-day The first few miles are paved, passing Mine was located. We spot a steel skel- water. Don’t travel alone, and let someone know where drive on a road that becomes narrow, Goldwater Lake — a small kayaking lake you are going and when you plan to return. rutted and slow-going in spots, making it and city park — and the small commu- ABOVE: Once a booming mining town, Crown King is INFORMATION: Bradshaw Ranger District, 928-443-8000 popular with ATVs and dirt bikes. nity of Groom Creek, named for Robert now home to roughly 100 full-time residents. or www.fs.usda.gov/prescott OPPOSITE PAGE: Senator Highway, named for the Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial From Gurley Street, we head south Groom. The Army colonel from Kentucky Senator Mine, was extended to Crown King piece by 511 to get information on road closures, construction, on Mount Vernon Avenue, one of the surveyed the first Prescott town site and piece between 1875 and 1885. delays, weather and more.

52 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPHS: OPPOSITE PAGE MARK LIPCZYNSKI TOP JEFF KIDA MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY www.arizonahighways.com 53 HIKE of the month

THE ARIZONA TRAIL: KENTUCKY CAMP The Arizona Trail runs for 800 miles from north to south across the state. Some of the most beautiful miles can be found in the grasslands of Southern Arizona. BY ROBERT STIEVE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF MALTZMAN

onoita, Arizona, isn’t what most About 20 minutes in, you’ll pass as hikers, and this stretch is especially people think of when they think of through another gate and see a giant popular with equestrians. SArizona. The area doesn’t feature Emory oak on the right. The big trees, Continuing southeast, the trail crosses any saguaros or grand canyons or red which are evergreens, can reach heights into Fish Canyon and starts switching rocks. Instead, it’s dominated by rolling of 60 feet, and their acorns feed quail, uphill into a thicket — look for gray- hills and grasslands, with several impres- Steller’s jays, turkeys, squirrels, deer and breasted jays, whose calls include a loud, sive mountain ranges on the perimeter. other resident wildlife. The oaks are a ringing week given singly or in a series. In some ways, the topography looks more common sight along the trail. Keep your Fifteen minutes later, the trail emerges like Oklahoma than Arizona, which is eyes peeled for horses, too — the AZT on a high ridge that offers long views of one reason Rodgers and Hammerstein was built as much for horseback riders the Santa Rita, Patagonia, Huachuca and Whetstone mountains. At the top, the down at your feet, you’ll see the rust- for another 75.1 miles to the U.S. border filmed the exterior scenes for Oklahoma! trail connects with Forest Road 4111 and ing remains of an old pipeline that was with Mexico. It’s a beautiful stretch that in the nearby San Rafael Valley. It’s a follows the rocky road to the southwest. installed by the Santa Rita Water and features mountains, canyons and, as Rod- unique environment that provides a If you use your imagination, this part Mining Co. There’s buried pipe through- gers and Hammerstein discovered, the beautiful backdrop for Passage 5 of the of the trail is reminiscent of trekking out the area, but because of the outcrop- rolling hills of Oklahoma!. Arizona Trail. through the Italian countryside. Without pings of hard limestone in this area, the Known as the Santa Rita Mountains the small villages. pipe couldn’t be buried as deep. segment, Passage 5 runs for 13.5 miles on After 30 minutes on the high road, Continuing downhill, the trail winds the leeward side of the range for which it’s you’ll see a sign on your left for the Ari- through a grove of beautiful trees and ADDITIONAL READING: named. This month’s Hike of the Month is a zona Trail — the AZT is extremely well arrives at a ridge that overlooks Gardner For more hikes, pick up a copy of segment of that segment, one that begins marked. Alligator junipers and yuccas Canyon. From there, it’s a steep drop Arizona Highways Hiking Guide, which features 52 of the state’s at Kentucky Camp, which was built more line the narrow path, along with the tall for a quarter-mile to the Gardner Can- best trails — one for each than a century ago as the headquarters for grasses that are ubiquitous to the region. yon Trailhead, which is the turnaround weekend of the year, sorted by seasons. To order a copy, visit the Santa Rita Water and Mining Co. It Ten minutes later, you’ll arrive at a gate point for this listing. However, if you’re www.shoparizonahighways. later served as a ranch headquarters, and and begin a gradual descent. If you look up for more, the Arizona Trail continues com/books. in 1989, it was acquired by the Coronado National Forest. Today, it’s a great place to begin a hike. TRAIL GUIDE From the trailhead, a narrow jeep LENGTH: 7.5 miles round-trip road leads downhill for a quarter-mile to DIFFICULTY: Easy the camp, which consists of five adobe ELEVATION: 5,446 to 4,986 feet buildings: the ranch headquarters, an TRAILHEAD GPS: N 31˚44.867', W 110˚44.506' DIRECTIONS: From Tucson, go east on Interstate 10 for assay office, the remains of an old barn approximately 21 miles to State Route 83. Turn right onto and two cabins — one of the cabins can SR 83 and continue 21.2 miles to Gardner Canyon Road. be rented through the “Rooms With a Turn right onto Gardner Canyon Road and continue 0.8 miles to Forest Road 163. Turn right onto FR 163 and View” program. On the other side of the continue 4.4 miles to the parking area for Kentucky camp, the trail passes through a gate and Camp. The trailhead is at a gate to the left. enters Kentucky Gulch, a narrow passage VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None of grama grasses, scattered junipers and DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) HORSES ALLOWED: Yes a steady stream of oaks. You’ll also notice USGS MAPS: Mount Wrightson, Sonoita some low mounds and shallow pits. INFORMATION: Nogales Ranger District, 520-281-2296 or They’re the remains of small-scale mining www.fs.usda.gov/coronado; Friends of Kentucky Camp, efforts that began in the 1870s. www.kentuckycamp.org LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES: • Plan ahead and be out all of your trash. prepared. • Leave what you find. RIGHT: Emory oaks and tall grasses line Passage 5 • Travel and camp on • Respect wildlife. of the Arizona Trail near Kentucky Camp. durable surfaces. • Minimize campfire OPPOSITE PAGE: The trail’s views of the Santa Rita • Dispose of waste impact. Mountains are particularly striking at sunrise. properly and pack • Be considerate of others.

54 FEBRUARY 2016 MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY www.arizonahighways.com 55 DWH AZ Hiways Dec._Layout 1 12/3/15 11:26 AM Page 1

WHERE IS THIS? WELCOME TO THE DAVID WRIGHT HOUSE

Under the Bridge The mountain lions and bobcats are long gone, but this bridge and old building stand as reminders of a pit stop along a famous roadway through Arizona. Like many such pit stops, business dried up after the interstate came along. However, the site still looks good in pictures. V I S I T F R A N K L L O Y D W R I G H T ’ S L A S T R E S I D E N T I A L M A S T E R P I E C E

Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location pictured at left and email your answer to editor@arizona Proud to celebrate our 60th Anniversary in Arizona Highways highways.com — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009 (write “Where Is This?” on the envelope). Please include your name, address For more information or to arrange a tour, and phone number. One winner will be chosen in a random drawing of visit www.DavidWrightHouse.org or call qualified entries. Entries must be postmarked by February 15, 2016. Only the winner will be notified. 602-689-6140. The correct answer will be posted in our April issue and online at www.arizonahighways.com begin- DavidWrightHouse WrightHouseAZ ning March 15.

56 FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE BARTH