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Issue No. 242 Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Festive Guide

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+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 3 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE

Former Democratic Party leader and businessman Dragan Djilas announced in December that he will make a political comeback in the Belgrade mayoral elections in 2018. Photo: Beta

CONSTITUTIONAL The deadline for amending the con- which was passed the year before, “Yet the National Assembly elects, di- vember, the press service of the Coun- REFORM ON HOLD stitution has already passed, according had “all the hallmarks of an over-hasty rectly or indirectly, all members of the cil of Europe also said it had agreed to the European Movement in Serbia. draft”. High Judicial Council proposing judges with the Serbian Justice Ministry to In order to implement the judicial Even though recommendations for “The main concerns with respect for appointment and in addition elects send a former member of the Venice reforms necessary to be admitted into amendments were laid out by the Council to the constitution relate, on the one the judges,” it said. Commission as an adviser to Serbia. the EU, Serbia has to amend its constitu- of Europe's Venice Commission in 2007, hand, to the fact that individual mem- It criticised the lack of opportunity They will assist the ministry in drafting tion, which includes holding a referen- no changes have yet been implemented. bers of parliament are made subservi- for public discussion and said the pro- constitutional amendments. dum on the proposed changes. The Council of Europe recently an- ent [...] to party leaderships and, on the cedure raised “questions of the legiti- Stojanovic, however, says that stag- Stojanovic says that so far the pub- nounced that the Venice Commission other, to the excessive role of parlia- macy of the text with respect to the ing early parliamentary elections could lic debate on constitutional changes will be involved in drafting recom- ment in judicial appointments,” the general public”. push implementing constitutional has not addressed the crux of the is- mended constitutional changes that it document said. The Venice Commission found it changes back “a couple of months”. sue. hopes will pave the way for judicial re- The commission said that judicial inde- “particularly surprising” that the consti- “However, I don't think that [the rul- “The debate has been pretty sluggish, form in Serbia in 2018. pendence is “wholly necessary to ensure tution is “extremely rigid and that large ing coalition] sees this as a factor that Constitutional reform, talks on Kosovo and Belgrade mayoral elections are some of the issues that await the Serbian government in 2018. Photo: Beta and invisible [to the public],” Stojanovic In its opinion published in 2007, the that the constitution is not merely a paper parts are very difficult to amend”. would make them postpone the elec- told BIRN. council states Serbia's constitution, exercise but will be enforced in practice”. In its written response to BIRN in No- tions,” Stojanovic said. Challenges Facing Serbia in 2018

Some, including Boban Stojanovic, join the UN “while Serbia is friends with Others from the opposition, however, In the coming an assistant lecturer at the Belgrade Russia”, which has the power to “veto have warned that the Progressives can year, Serbia Faculty for Political Sciences, believe that decision”. SERBIA-KOSOVO overturn decisions in one day. Serbia will try to delay signing any deal “They say they will get a seat in the NEGOTIATIONS In December, the Socialists' Move- is expected for as long as possible. United Nations... like hell they will,” Dac- ment, which is part of the ruling coali- “Whether that tactic will be success- ic told the Serbian national broadcaster, tion, urged Vucic to reconsider any Serbia and Kosovo signed to not only ful… I really can't say,” Stojanovic said. RTS, in November this year. an agreement in Brussels moves for early elections. Others note it is likely international in 2013 to normalise their “Despite [the] decision, Vucic and complete difficult pressure to reach an agreement will be BELGRADE ELECTIONS relations. the Progressive Party will seek a way to stepped up. stage early parliamentary elections in negotiations “There are indications that those Another test for both the govern- Belgrade and Pristina have order to mitigate [their] impending fail- pressures are increasing, especially ment and the opposition will be the lo- since held negotiations on ure in Belgrade [city elections],” said the with Kosovo through the engagement of the US,” cal elections in Serbia's capital, where integrating Kosovo Serbs Free Citizens' Movement, which is led long-time journalist for daily newspa- around a quarter of the country's popu- into Kosovo institutions, by former Ombudsman and defeated but also hold per Politika and foreign policy expert lation lives. disbanding parallel Serbian presidential candidate Sasa Jankovic. heated Belgrade Bosko Jaksic told BIRN. Some analysts believe that the ruling institutions, regulating Rumours about snap elections were According to Jaksic, the US wants party fears it could lose control of the telecommunications and started by Vucic himself, who hinted elections and to put an end to the stalling of negotia- capital, recalling that the opposition's other issues. at the possibility in October which was tions which has been “tolerated” by the Belgrade victory in the 1990s served as then followed by a month of media implement EU so far. an “introduction” to the defeat of then Serbia is also expecting speculation. Kosovo Foreign Minister Behgjet Pa- President Slobodan Milosevic in other Kosovo to establish For political sciences assistant lectur- overdue colli's words echoed this expectation parts of the country. the Association of er Stojanovic, the Progressives' public when he told Kosovo's RTK television While Belgrade is important enough Municipalities within ethnic display surrounding the early election constitutional on December 11 that the negotiations on its own, analysts and opposition par- Serb majority areas, but dilemma seemed “staged”. with Serbia in Brussels will continue in ties have not ruled out the possibility the Constitutional Court of “I did not expect the Progressive Par- reforms. January with “increased intensity”. of snap parliamentary elections being Kosovo said this would be ty to announce there will be an election “I hope that the dialogue will end held at the same time – despite the rul- unconstitutional. [but] they are probably getting ready for with a peace agreement between Kos- ing Progressive Party's claim they will them,” Stojanovic said. ovo and Serbia because such an agree- be held as scheduled in 2020. Negotiations are ongoing. He claims that the ruling party needs Filip RUDIC ment is necessary to both [of them], and “I still believe that the parliamentary the parliamentary elections to give to everyone in the region,” Pacolli said. elections will take place [at the same them a boost in Belgrade, where some he cabinet of Serbian Pres- Jaksic said he expects the agreement time as the Belgrade elections],” said analysts claim that the Progressives ident Aleksandar Vucic will allow Kosovo to become a member Boban Stojanovic, when asked wheth- questioning the honesty of this govern- could lose power. will be engaged in several of the UN without forcing Serbia to for- er he believed the Progressives. ment's declared [support for] European Analysts have said that linking the lo- demanding tasks set be- mally recognise its former province's After much speculation over the pos- integration, Aleksandar Vucic and the cal Belgrade elections to national elec- fore the country as part of independence, declared in 2008. sibility of snap parliamentary elections, Progressive Party employ the already tions would enable the Progressives to Tits EU accession process. These will test “I expect that neither side will be in the managing board of Aleksandar seen method of distraction,” Democrat- harness Vucic's personal popularity his regime's popularity in the Serbian a position to delay the [signing],” Jaksic Vucic's Progressive Party voted on No- ic Party president Dragan Sutanovac ahead of the city vote, something any capital – and perhaps in parliamentary said, adding that a “frozen conflict” is in vember 18 against an early poll. told Beta news agency on November 18. other Progressive candidate would elections too. nobody's interest. The opposition Democratic Party Most opposition parties interpreted struggle to do. Authorities in Pristina expect to However, some Belgrade officials said that the Progressives deliberately the Progressives' decision not to hold Early elections would also be an sign a legally-binding agreement with have taken the hard-line approach to “distracted” citizens, even though early parliamentary elections as a sign excuse to stall negotiations with Pris- Belgrade by the end of 2018, which negotiations. Vucic's party “knew from the start” that that western countries did not support tina, since forming a new government analysts in Serbia say will require in- Serbia's Foreign Minister and Deputy the elections would not be held. the idea and demanded Vucic aban- would take several months, Stojanovic creased pressure placed on both sides. PM Ivica Dacic said that Kosovo will not “At the moment, when the West is don the plan. added. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 5 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE Top 7 Untrue Political Statements Made in 2017

tion of government control,” Domanovic As Serbian explained. politicians make 2. VUCIC: “I TOLD THE TRUTH promises very ABOUT SAVAMALA THE FIRST DAY” easily and just (GRADE: UNTRUE) Vucic told Serbian media in February love to give that he told the truth about the overnight demolition in the Savamala district of Bel- statements, grade in April 2016 immediately, and that it was clear that someone from the city was Istinomer brings behind this action. you the top seven Masked people demolished buildings, presumably to make way for construction false claims made of the controversial government-backed Belgrade Waterfront project. in 2017. He added that he would not criticise any- one if the demolition had taken place dur- ing the day. Maja ZIVANOVIC “Since Istinomer carefully followed this issue, we determined that Vucic only stated ilka Domanovic, from the Ser- about a month and a half after the demoli- bian fact-checking website Is- tion, and after a great pressure from the tinomer, has selected the top public, at a press conference on June 9, 2016 Mseven untrue claims made by that the city leaders were behind the demo- Serbian politicians in 2017. lition,” Domanovic said, adding that before 2017: The Year in Politics The Istinomer team give various grades then Vucic had not provided any specific The diplomatic crisis that arose between Serbia and Macedonia in August, reportedly had something with Macedonia supporting Kosovo’s bid to join Photo: Beta to evaluate the truthfulness of publicly- details. UNESCO. From left: the Prime Minister of Kosovo, Ramush Haradinaj and Zoran Zaev, the Prime Minister of Macedonia. made statements, and on this occasion it “Even today, a year and a half after the has selected those with the highest marks demolition, we do not know who was re- Mladic’s judgement ter which Serbian Prime Minister Alek- became Serbia’s first female prime min- tial “offensive actions” planned against march on September 17, which the for untruthfulness, and those that are so un- sponsible for the Savamala affair, who con- sandar Vucic dramatically accused the ister on June 29. Appointed by Vucic, Serbia. Both President Vucic and Foreign Prime Minister attended this year for true they are ridiculous, called “short legs” ducted it, and who ordered the demolition, Vucic is still criticized for not reveling who was behind the Savamala demolitions in 2016. Photo: Beta might be fresh in Kosovo government of trying to blow Brnabic is known for her pro-EU stance Minister Ivica Dacic said that “foreign the first time. . nor who is responsible for the fact that the up the railway line and of sending spe- and being Serbia’s first openly gay min- powers” were also implicated in the al- 1. VUCIC: “THE CONSTITUTIONAL TASK police did not go to the scene after citizens 4. ZORANA MIHAJLOVIC: “200 huge Serbian flag and added the money for more than 10 minutes of negative cover- mind, but the rest cial forces to attack the train. Kosovo ister. Although she was fairly unknown legations. The move came in the midst of OCTOBER OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE STATE called them, this Vucic statement also KILOMETRES MORE HIGHWAY [BUILT] this project would be taken from the budget age compared to 353 [minutes of] positive dismissed the charges. Serbian analysts to the public before the appointment, attempts to build good relations between IS TO CONTROL THE GOVERNMENT” qualifies as one of the greatest untruths in IN THREE YEARS” (GRADE: UNTRUE) surplus. [coverage] in the central newscasts of these of 2017 was hectic, called the dispatch of the train a provo- the right-wing organisation Dveri, spec- the two countries. EU’S CATALAN RESPONSE (GRADE: SHORT LEGS) 2017”. “However, it turned out that there is no stations during the election campaign,” cation that had only damaged relations ulated whether her appointment was LEAVES SERBIA FEELING The Serbian Minister of Construction surplus in the budget, as the budget deficit Domanovic said. a year of (yes, more) between Kosovo and Serbia. the choice of Vucic or “the choice of the SERBIA'S ICONIC B92 TV AGGRIEVED Milka Domanovic from Istinomer noted 3. MAJA GOJKOVIC: “PARLIAMENT told RTS on July 26 that Serbia then had an actually increased from 5.5 to 7.5 billion di- She added that blurring the wider picture West”. OFFICIALLY BECOMES HISTORY that Aleksandar Vucic's move from prime NEVER WORKED DURING additional 200 kilometres of highway than nars [from 45 million to 62 million euros],” by revealing only selected data is a com- elections, protests, FEBRUARY The European Union’s stance to- minister to president following the presi- [PRESIDENTIAL] CAMPAIGNS” three years ago. Domanovic said, who further clarified mon tactic used by Serbian politicians. firsts, lasts and SERBS MOCK NEW MUSICAL The renowned Serbian television wards Catalan and Kosovo independ- dential elections in 2017 meant he now has (GRADE: UNTRUE) However, according to the information that while it is true that budget revenues FIRST SREBRENICA TRIAL FOUNTAIN IN BELGRADE station B92, which came to prominence ence put a strain on Serbia’s already a more ceremonial role, rather than directly Istinomer got from the same ministry, increased, the deficit also increased be- 7. ALEKSANDAR VULIN: “NO ONE HAS scandals. OPENS IN BELGRADE while resisting Slobodan Milosevic’s tenuous relationship with Brussels. controlling government. The Serbian Parliament speaker, Maja Serbia had only 123.5 kilometres of new cause city authorities planned to spend SAID THAT I HAVE LIED” Belgrade officials test-ran the brand regime in the 1990s, was rebranded O2 In the aftermath of Catalonia, the EU Vucic said on March 6 that there had been Gojkovic, told the public broadcaster RTS highway between 2014 and the first half more. (GRADE: SHORT LEGS) Eight former members of a Bosnian new musical fountain at the Slavija television. Critics say the change came issued a statement reiterating that a rise in VAT collection and announced that on March 2 that parliament did not work of 2017. Serb special police unit were put on roundabout, receiving mixed reactions long after B92 “forfeited” the concept of they do not see Kosovo and Catalo- public sector pensions and salaries would during the presidential campaign. “Even if we count a section from [Serbian 6. ALEKSANDAR MARTINOVIC: “No one has said that I have lied [about] trial in a Serbian courtroom—never from the public. Supporters saw the resistance it was built on. Changing the nia as “comparable”. Vucic responded increase. He said that there was room for In order for the parliamentary elections cities] Pirot to Dimitrovgrad at the length “MOST REPORTS ABOUT VUCIC ARE anything I said, someone likes my sharp- Alexis TRAUSSI before has a case relating to the 1995 fountain becoming a must-see attrac- name marked a new chapter in the sta- by claiming the EU applied a “double investment in hospitals, schools and roads. to be called, Serbian parliament needs to of 30 kilometres, which was put into traffic NEGATIVE” (GRADE: UNTRUE) ness, someone does not like it, but no one Srebrenica massacre been prosecuted tion for locals and visitors to Belgrade, tion’s history. standard” on Serbia. In that context, he said that as president he be dissolved, but in the case of presidential [use] in September this year [two months has questioned what I said,” the Serbian or most followers of Serbian in Belgrade. The accused were charged while others criticised the grandiose would control the government and that it is elections, parliament continues its work. after the announcement], the sum is still The head of the Progressive MP's group Defence Minister was quoted as saying by politics, 2017 was definitely with organising and participating in the design and lavish spending required to SEPTEMBER NOVEMBER "the constitutional job of the president". “However, an example from 2004 when not 200 kilometres, but 153.5,” Domanovic said this during an interview for the region- the daily newspaper Danas on June 30, after fast-moving and compli- shooting of more than 1,300 Bosniak ci- build it. “In order to prove that the president can the assembly worked all the time during the pointed out. al public broadcaster RTV on April 18 and, critics claimed he was not competent to be cated. This year saw former vilians. The trial continues. SERBIA’S CHILD MIGRANTS FIND RATKO MLADIC legally influence the government, Vucic [presidential] campaign proves the oppo- according to Istinomer, it is the oft-repeated appointed defence minister. Prime Minister Aleksandar JULY ROAD TO SCHOOL LONG CONVICTED OF GENOCIDE, stated before the elections that the constitu- site,” Milka Domanovic told BIRN. 5. SINIŠA MALI: “FUNDS FOR [GIANT] line from various officials from Vucic's rul- “In this case, it was relatively easy to eval- FVucic elected president, and the first APRIL JAILED FOR LIFE tional work of the president of the state is to She recalled that later even Vucic and the FLAGPOLE FROM SURPLUS TO ing Progressives – that Vucic was not treat- uate Minister Vulin, since 50 per cent of his gay female Prime Minister, Ana Brn- VUCIC LAUNCHES SERBIA'S Schools in Serbia were having dif- control the government. However, there is head of his party's MP group - the Serbian BUDGET” (GRADE: UNTRUE) ed well by certain television stations during previously given statements we analysed abic, come to power as his top pick. VUCIC WINS SERBIAN ‘INTERNAL DIALOGUE’ ON ficulties regulating the enrolment and The International Criminal Tribunal no basis for this either in the constitution or Progressive Party MP's group - Aleksandar the presidential campaign. were "short legs",” said Domanovic, explain- Among this year’s high-profile trials, PRESIDENTIAL ELECTIONS KOSOVO retention of a large influx of migrant for the former Yugoslavia (ICTY) found in the Law on the President, where the com- Martinovic, also wrongly claimed that the Belgrade Mayor Mali announced in June “When we look at this entire survey and ing that he has been already been accused Ratko Mladic was finally sent to prison students. While some schools allowed former Bosnian Serb Army command- petencies of the president of the state are assembly never holds sessions at the time that the Belgrade authorities would install the total sample of six television stations, of and found to have made so many false for war crimes in Srebrenica. Voters Former Prime Minister Vucic won Serbian President Vucic in July, in an the students to join their classes, others er Ratko Mladic guilty of genocide and clearly outlined, and where there is no men- of a presidential election. one of the world's tallest flagpoles to fly a we can see that Vucic had only slightly statements previously. and protesters took to the streets that, the presidential election, with 54.9 per article for the daily newspaper Blic, that had parents protesting against the move crimes against humanity, convicting in the capital, have seen no end of road- cent of the vote, ensuring him a five-year the Serbian nation had to “stop bury- and a lack of funding further prevented him of some the worst atrocities in Eu- works and other projects, one of which term as the country’s leader. Vucic had ing its head in the sand” on Kosovo and more migrant children from attending. rope since World War II. He was sen- ORDER DELIVERY TO was a large new fountain in Belgrade’s the largest percentage of support, his start “an internal dialogue” about likely tenced to life in prison. The decision Find your copy of YOUR DOOR famous Slavija square. closest rival, Sasa Janokvic, came sec- solutions. PROSPECT OF HARADINAJ came after a four-year marathon trial in +381 11 4030 303 We said goodbye to the infamous ond with 16.2 per cent of the vote. The “We must try to be realistic, not lose RUNNING KOSOVO DIVIDES which appeals were made and Mladic Belgrade Insight here: [email protected] B92 television station, and hello to turnout was low with only 54.2 per cent or give away what we have, but not ex- SERBIA caused disruptions. www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight Christmas and New Year’s lights in Sep- of the country actually going to the polls. pect to receive what we lost long ago,” tember. Yes, September. Vucic said in the article on July 24, re- The Kosovo-Serb backing of Kadri DECEMBER Here, BIRN takes a look back at the PROTESTERS IN SERBIA ferring obliquely to Serbia’s loss of con- Veseli as Kosovo’s new Speaker of Par- MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL most important events we covered in DENOUNCE VUCIC'S POLL trol over the former province that pro- liament drew sharply divided reactions SERBIA'S DJILAS VOWS TO Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla Serbia during 2017. VICTORY claimed independence in 2008. across Serbia as many saw it as a path for RECAPTURE BELGRADE Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v In September, he declared the first an accused war criminal to gain power MAYORALTY HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A JANUARY Thousands of people took to the phase of this dialogue over. In October, in Kosovo. Veseli’s election would allow Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA streets of Belgrade and other Serbians the authorities stated they had opened his party’s PAN coalition ally, Ramush Former Democratic Party leader and SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 SERBIA SENDS CONTROVERSIAL towns and cities to protest Vucic’s elec- a second chapter. Haradinaj, the former Kosovo Libera- businessman Dragan Djilas announced HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 TRAIN TO KOSOVO tion victory. The protestors claimed tion Army guerrilla leader, to form a gov- that he will again run for mayor of Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA that his win marked the beginning of ernment. The move angered Serbian Belgrade, challenging Vucic’s ruling Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD Tensions between Pristina and Bel- a dictatorship and that the elections AUGUST officials who allege that Haradinaj com- Progressive Party’s as yet unknown CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE grade soared in mid-January, after the were rigged in his favour. mitted war crimes against Serbs in Ko- candidate. Djilas had already secured NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 train, painted in the colours of the Ser- SERBIA RECALLED DIPLOMATS sovo’s war of independence in the late support from the Free Citizens’ Move- FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade bian flag and bearing the words “Kosovo JUNE FROM MACEDONIA OVER 1990s. He denies all allegations. ment, led former Ombudsman and Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC is Serbian” in 21 different languages, in- 'OFFENSIVE' ACTIONS presidential candidate Sasa Jankovic. BISTRO BAR Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 cluding Albanian, set off from Belgrade BRNABIC NAMED SERBIA'S PM MAKES HISTORY, Djilas was formerly the mayor of Bel- Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Aerodrom pult Address: to the northern, Serb-run part of the SERBIA'S NEW PM-DESIGNATE Serbian embassy staff were abruptly JOINING PRIDE PARADE grade from 2008 to 2013, when his HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 town of Mitrovica. The Serbian authori- removed from their offices in Macedonia Democratic Party’s coalition partner, Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL ties stopped the train in Raska, southern Ana Brnabic, then minister of public after the Serbian government claimed to Several hundred LGBT activists gath- the Socialist Party of Serbia, formed a Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 Serbia, just before the Kosovo border, af- administration and local government, have obtained intelligence about poten- ered in Belgrade for the Pride Parade new majority.

6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 7 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE Christmas A Time for Giving Treats for While the end of the year is Belgrade the time of celebration and festivities, it is also Kids a time to offer OPEN HEART STREET The winter holidays (ULICA OTVORENOG SRCA) help to those less are just around the This is by far the most popular event fortunate. Here corner with dozens which traditionally takes place every Janu- ary 1 at noon sharp at the city centre Sveto- are some charity of fun seasonal gorska Street, which is transformed into an open-air carnival for parents and children. organisations that events and Every year people flock to Svetogorska, seeking the warm holiday atmosphere and would welcome activities awaiting the spirit of solidarity. The street is also full of stands selling hot drinks and food with your support. you and your all proceeds going to charity. Each year children. money goes to those who need it most, so last year the proceeds went to Belgrade’s children shelter. Milan RADONJIC Ivana NIKOLIC All across the street, you will see Santas, clowns, jugglers, magicians and children’s REFUGEE AID MIKSALISTE ith snow, presents and happy faces. You might also see some in- glittering decorations, teresting face paint on kids’ faces – most Miksaliste refugee hub and drop-in cen- Christmas and New commonly a red nose like the one that tre in Gavrila Principa Street offers initial Year’s Eve are probably clowns wear. basic shelter and education programmes children’s favourite time Apart from in the centre of Belgrade, for refugees and asylum seekers. It is an ofW the entire year. Many families decide to Open Heart Street will also take place at offshoot project of Mikser, the Belgrade spend the winter holidays at some of Ser- several other city municipalities: Cukarica, cultural organisation, and covers the bia’s famous mountain resorts, such as Zlati- Rakovica, Surcin, Mladenovac, Obrenovac needs of refugees who do not fall within bor a four-hour drive west of Belgrade or and Savski Venac. Entrance is free of charge. the scope of state institutions and inter- – most likely – Kopaonik, a four-hour drive national donor organisations. Miksaliste south of the city, where they can enjoy win- NEW YEAR'S CHILDREN'S offers language and computer courses, ter games, snowballing and sledding. FESTIVAL (NOVOGODISNJI visits to museums and concerts, and However, if you are staying in the city for DECIJI FESTIVAL) last, but not least, distributes humanitar- the holidays, don’t worry: Belgrade doesn’t ian aid to the most vulnerable, including fall short of winter magic and exciting This event takes place between De- families and minors. events, with ice rinks, street jugglers, magi- cember 21 and 22 at Kalemegdan Fortress. Miksaliste runs Children's Corner with cians, musicians and the traditional Open There will be four concerts performed the support of Save the Children and their Heart Street event at locations across the by children’s choirs who will sing famous local partner the Centre for Integration of city for around two months. songs celebrating the New Year. Entrance Youth. It provides creative activities for Like every year, all these events come is free of charge. unaccompanied refugee children, and under the Belgrade Winter programme, also serves as an information centre for which this year bears the slogan My Win- STARS FALL PROGRAMME families asking for help from state insti- The Belgrade Drop-in Shelter for children, Svratiste, in Krfska Street, would appreciate some new school equipment for the children. Photo: Facebook/Svratiste za decu,Beograd ter. It kicked off on December 1 and contin- (PADAJU ZVEZDE) tutions. Mothers' Corner offers care and ues until January 31, 2018. support for infants, but also mental health founded the drop-in shelter. “Therefore, Serbia. They have been active in the City Hall and local businesses provides and improving living conditions for their Apart from Belgrade Winter events, there This event takes place from December and other well-being services for women. school equipment is also a perfect form rebuilding of reception and aid centres Christmas presents (sweets and toys) families. They cite numerous success are also some other interesting activities. 25 to 29 at two locations: the newly-recon- The organisation says it would wel- of donation.” for refugees along the so-called Balkan for 1,000 children from Belgrade kin- cases of children receiving long-awaited Belgrade Insight has prepared a little guide structed plateau in front of the Dom Om- come volunteers and donations. route through Serbia, in Belgrade, Novi dergartens. medical treatment after public cam- for you, highlighting the most interesting ladine cultural centre and at Kosancicev “We are always open to the local com- Address: Krfska 7a Sad, Nis, Dimitrovgrad, Sjenica, Tutin, “We are constantly receiving pleas to paigns for financial donations, instigated places for our youngest fellow citizens. Venac. The full name of the programme is munity in terms of offering volunteer Contact: +381 11 3390258 Presevo, Sid, and Subotica, in coopera- provide Christmas presents for children by Support Life founder and Serbian ac- ‘Stars fall, fulfilling dreams, go to the street, positions,” says Teodora Jovanovic, Com- cim.org.rs tion with USAID and the Open Society from towns all over the country, so we tor Sergej Trifunovic. FAIRY TALE SQUARE Santa is calling.’ There will be various chil- munity Manager at Miksaliste. “Second- www.facebook.com/SvratisteBeograd Foundation. encourage those who are in position “Every case is equally important for us, (TRG BAJKI) dren’s events such as a costume ball, work- hand clothing, especially for the winter “After some time, we realised that to donate, to contact us,” says Radmila the same as promoting solidarity in our shops, ornament making for Christmas conditions ahead of us, will be put to good NOVAK DJOKOVIC local communities in which large refu- Ivetic, head of the Food Bank association. society as a whole, and this is why we will This kids-oriented show takes place trees, a drawing competition and so on. use here but also school equipment and FOUNDATION gees camps are located face numerous “They can help either by purchasing the continue to work on creating conditions in front of the Vuk Stefanovic Karadzic Entrance is free of charge. hygiene products.” problems and also need our support,” presents themselves or by financial do- for the wider community to take part cultural institution at Bulevar Kralja Alek- She says presents for all, men, women The Novak Djokovic Foundation will says Miljana Kercu, a spokesperson for nation.” in providing a better future for children sandra 77a St. It kicked off on December 1 MOSCOW CIRCUS ON ICE and children, are welcome these days, provide Christmas presents for 148 chil- the foundation, explaining how food in Serbia,” says Ratomir Antonovic, the and lasts until December 30, offering the and the same goes for Christmas decora- dren aged from 12 months to 10 years and hygiene products for refugees are Address: Kumodraska 158 foundation's manager. young, and the young at heart, the chance Even though it is not part of the Belgrade tions to make Miksaliste more colourful who are living with foster parents in the equally important to reinforcing the Contact: +381 11 2497263 The Support Life Foundation accepts to watch performances of the most famous Winter events, this is another performance and cheerful for people in dire need of towns of Sabac, and Loznica, (90 and infrastructure in local communities in www.bankahrane.org specific financial donations for children Serbian national fairy tales. Apart from worth visiting with your family. It takes some light in their lives. 140 kilometres South West of the capital which they stay. in need of medical treatment but also en- fairy tales, Fairy Tale Square will also host place on January 15, 2018, at the Sava Cen- respectively) and the Belgrade munici- The foundation provides help in SUPPORT LIFE courages those willing to help with daily other interesting events such as a small tar and tickets range from 1,800-3,000 di- Address: Gavrila Principa 15 pality Obrenovac. They will also put on emergency situations, supports eco- FOUNDATION activities to join their ranks. puppet theatre, children books promo- nars (around 15-25 euros). The show, which Contact: +381 11 2626068 a Christmas show for them at the Sabac nomic empowerment of local commu- tional events and meetings with writers, as has been performed in more than 50 coun- refugeeaidmiksaliste.rs theatre on December 24. nities, and would be glad for you to take The Support Life Foundation provides Address: Mitropolita Petra 15 well as ecological and educational work- tries, includes acrobatics on skates, spec- During the same period they will be part in their work or support them with support to sick and poor children by col- Contact: +381 11 4089785 shops and several stands featuring classic tacular light effects, clowns and more. BELGRADE opening a newly-renovated kindergar- donations. lecting financial aid for their treatment www.podrzizivot.com Serbian craftworks and handicrafts. Apart DROP-IN SHELTER ten in the town of Pozega in western from these events, kids will also have the PIRATES’ FAIRY TALE Serbia for some 720 children, in which Address: Ilije Garasanina 53a/7 opportunity to enjoy performances by jug- (GUSARSKA BAJKA) The Belgrade Drop-in Shelter for chil- the foundation invested 100,000 euros. Contact: +381 11 3341755 ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ glers, magicians and street musicians. All dren in Krfska Street provides protec- They too welcome donations and vol- www.divac.com/rs ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” events are free of charge. Pirates’ Fairy Tale is actually an Irish tion and educational programmes for unteers. RESTAURANT KOVAČ dance show for children and is per- children that live and work on the streets FOOD BANK modern ethno restaurant FUTURE PARK formed by youngsters from Erin’s Fiddle, of Belgrade. They could also make good Address: Boulevard Mihajla Pupina 10a BELGRADE a Belgrade-based Irish dancing troop. On use of winter clothing, shoes, underwear Contact: +381 11 2600010 Be sure to visit Hall 4 of the Belgrade Fair, December 21, the youngest performers and socks for children aged five to 15. The novakdjokovicfoundation.org The Belgrade-based Food Bank (Ban- which runs until December 24, and see the will take you on a one-hour pursuit of same goes for snacks, juice, hygiene prod- ka hrane) provides meals for the most biggest technological amusement park in lost treasure. The performance starts at ucts and, of course, toys. ANA AND VLADE DIVAC vulnerable in Serbian society, in coop- Europe! Visitors will have the chance to ex- 5.30pm at the Culture Centre Vlada Divl- “We currently have some 450 chil- FOUNDATION eration with numerous restaurants, perience virtual reality and jump into the jan in Mitropolita Petra St 8. Tickets range dren in our support programme, 80 food producers and business organisa- future as well as play some of the most fa- from 250-400 dinars (two to three euros] per cent are school age,” says Jasna The Ana and Vlade Divac Founda- tions. One of the Food Bank's traditional mous video games such as Counter Strike. and can be bought at Eventim ticket out- Braticevic, programme coordinator at tion has been a notable supporter of programmes is the New Year's box, Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com Entrance is free of charge. lets. Moscow on Ice comes to Belgrade on January 15. The show takes place at Sava Centar. Photo: Facebook/Moscow on Ice the Centre for Youth Integration, which the needs of migrants and refugees in which, in cooperation with Belgrade 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 9 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE Belgrade With a Bang: All The Best End of Year Parties

€20 sits you at the bar, but €150 puts you on a CAST OFF FOR table with four friends. Drop € 420 and you'll be 2018 - DRAGSTOR PLAY SPLAV spending NYE in a booth for six with a bottle of champagne, among Belgrade's beautiful. Cock- If you're looking for the Belgrade splav expe- tails are said to be good and resident DJs will be rience that everyone talks about, you can't go playing local and international deep house and wrong with Dragstor Play. You'll get that slightly disco. upscale experience without having to pay a lot to get in. Regionally renowned cover band Loco will Address: Crnogorska 12 be playing and DJ Lo will spin commercial house Price: €20 – €420 while the band takes a few breaks over the night. Contact: +381 69 830 0777

Address: Usce bb KICK ON AT KPTM Price: €20 Contact: +381 66 910 0000 KPTM is the place to go if you want to party long into the morning. Known as one of the best dance MINGLE IF SINGLE: clubs in the city, the doors stay open for as long as BELGRADE TRAFFIC LIGHT PARTY its busy, making it a great place to kick-on late. 6 eu- ros is just for entry, no drinks included, but at that Now in its 15th year, the Traffic Light party is a price it could be the best place to go for your 4th staple of Belgrade New Year's parties, even though or 5th party of the night or for those of us that just it's always in a different spot. The rules are simple: don't want to let 2017 go. wear a red bracelet if you're not interested in meet- ing anyone new, yellow if you are on the fence and Address: Zorza Klemsoa 22 green if you're single and ready to mingle. As al- Price: 6 euros ways, this will be a massive party (1,500-person ca- Contact: +381 11 339 2758 pacity), featuring six different stages with all types of music - from foreign rock to Serbian folk and DANCE TILL YOU DOT everything in between. And yes, entry guarantees everything is included with an open bar all night. Another great option for clubbing way past bed- time. This New Year's DOT has a huge line-up of Address: Sarajevska 24 DJs, both foreign and home-grown. Expect funk, Price: €15-€25 soul, r'n'b, nu disco, deep house, tech house and Contact: +381 60 650 7650 more and at 3 euros entry it might be the best- priced ticket going. Put it on the list if you're party- BELGRADE'S BERLIN CHIC AT BRANKOW hopping.

Brankow is one of the most popular, modern Address: Francuska 6 bars in the city so if you want to go on one of Price: 3 euros the biggest nights of the year, you'd better book. Contact: +381 69 368 2582

If you're looking for the Belgrade splav experience that everyone talks about, you can't go wrong with Dragstor Play. Photo: Facebook/Dragstor Play Splav

has seen global success as an accordion player, HIGH CLASS AT HYPE TRANZIT THROUGH A SAVAMALA NYE NY EVE AND DAY AT 0.5 Known as one of is clearly the star, but Vasil Hadzimanov (synth New Year's Eve bass, keyboards) and Srdjan Dunkic (drums) are If you want to dance but you're looking for If you don't really want to commit to one party, One cool thing 0.5's New Year's Eve deal is that the easiest places in both phenomena in their own rights. The spe- DARK TECH AT DRUGSTORE something a bit more high-end, you want to go to Tranzit Bar might not be a bad place to start your if you pay to come on the 31st, you get into the next cial Christmas Eve gig starts at 10pm and should Hype, a club in the old Mikser House, in Savamala. night. Tickets are fairly inexpensive and it's right party, the next day, free. If you're not that brave, Europe to find a good be top of the list for fans of experimental but Known for its dark and unrelenting electronic DJs will be local and there'll be a nice mix of more in the thick of Savamala's nightlife, making a po- this might not mean much, but what you should funky jazz/fusion, particularly if they also like music, Drugstore is undeniably the epicentre of commercial house, tech house and disco. It costs tential plan of bar-hopping very easy to achieve. know is that the Long Play Band will be playing all time any season, it a bit of an 'ethno-Balkan' twist thrown into the underground clubbing in Serbia, perhaps even the €20 to get in and mingle, but if you want to reserve Resident DJs Danijel Cehranov and DJ Malina night and you can expect to hear your favourite stew. region. This NYE, just like the last, they'll be putting a seat or a table, it'll cost a little more. €150 gets you will be playing and you can just show up and pay rock and pop hits from the last several decades. should be no surprise on two different parties on different stages. -Za five tickets and a high table by the bar, but the VIP at the door. But give them a call if you're coming With the price of admission, you get a free drink. there is no shortage Address: Brace Krsmanovica 4 dig, who has been a staple on the Parisian techno packages range between €300-€500, getting ten with a larger group, it won't cost you anything ex- You'll have to buy the rest on your own, but the Price: 5 euros scene since the 90s, will be headlining in the main of your friends into the party and a bottle of cham- tra. bar promises that prices will be the same as they of places to party in Contact: +381 11 3282370 room, supported by Anastasia Kristensen from pagne as well. always are, regardless of the big event. Copenhagen. Carlos Souffront, a don of the Detroit Address: Brace Krsmanovica 8 Belgrade as the New techno scene, will bring the deep and unexpected Address: Karadjordjeva 46 Price: €12 Address: Dobracina 30a BOWIE OF THE to the 'dark' room. Tickets are for the music, food Price: €20 - €600 Contact: +381 65 872 6948 Price: €12 Year approaches. BALKANS AT SAVA and drink are extra. Contact: +381 65 449 5555 Contact: +381 61 616 4393 CENTAR CATCH TWO Address: Bulevar Despota Stefana 119 CETINJSKA 4K18 FESTIVAL PARTIES AT KVAKA 22 DINNER, DRINKS AND A Some people refer to him as the Balkan's David Price: €17 BAND AT BISTRO JAZZ CAFE David GALIC Bowie, but after starting out with the band Dorian Contact: facebook.com/drugstore.beograd If you love the parties in Cetinjska Street and We've talked about this arty, cool semi-squat in Gray in the 80's he is now absolutely the portrait of wouldn't mind staying for New Year's as well, this recent issues because it's a chameleon of exhibi- But Bistro Jazz Cafe, a more refined and low- f you're going out but would rather not catch the Yugo-pop artist. Known for his incredible vo- TURKISH PSYCHEDELIA AT 20/44 party is good news. Four of the most popular spots tion space, music venue and bar with a cool pro- key New Year's option right in the heart of Bel- a cold at one of the freezing street parties, cals and long, illustrious musical career, Croatian in the old warehouse complex of Cetinjska - Za- gramme. On New Year's they'll have two different grade, might be more your speed. There won't here's some of the best parties happening at superstar Massimo Savic will be playing a special 20/44 has been one of the most eclectic clubs on okret, Sprat, Elektropionir and Lift - are throwing stages with two separate parties taking place on be any jazz, but there will be a live band play- IBelgrade's best venues, clubs and bars. concert at Sava Centar on December 24. This will the scene for some time now, and their New Year's a party together. All of the clubs will play different two different floors. One of them will have harder, ing both foreign and domestic hits at a reason- actually be number two at the Centar after his first parties don't disappoint. This year, they will have music, but a ticket and wristband for the event gets faster techno, the other will be a bit more casual, able level. The admission price gets you a table show on December 22 quickly sold out. Savic con- a visit from Baris K, a guru of Turkish psychedelic you into all four. with DJs playing popular r'n'b and pop-rock hits all reservation and the entertainment of course, Christmas Eve tinues to be the main event all over the former Yu- music and world-touring DJ. Eurasia, a compila- The 4k18 Party will see three of Belgrade's best night. Entry is really cheap, plus all drinks for the but they're also putting on a special New Year's goslavia because while his voice shows no signs tion he co-authored, was pretty much directly re- DJ collectives, Mystic Styles, Kisobran and Beyond night will cost 200 dinars (less than 2 euros) each. menu, which costs extra. If you want to check the EXPERIMENTAL of aging, his live shows are constantly evolving. If sponsible for the popularisation of Turkish funk, House, taking turns spinning music at all four ven- A great party for those who might have dropped bistro out on any other night around NYE, they're ' ETHNO-BALKAN' AT KC GRAD there's any ex-Yugoslav singer worth seeing multi- disco and psychedelic rock from the 70s. Drinks ues. If you want in, act fast. Only 700 tickets are too much on Chritstmas gifts and have to tighten also throwing matinee parties from 2 pm 'til mid- ple times a year - heck, even multiple times a week and food aren't covered by the ticket here either, available and we all know how crowded Cetinjska the belt. night every night from December 29 all the way - it's Massimo Savic. the price is just for expanding your mind. usually gets. until January 3. The Misko Plavi (aka Milivoje Petrovic) Trio Address: Ruzveltova 39 hardly needs introducing in Belgrade, especial- Address: Milentija Popovica 9 Address: Usce bb Address: Cetinjska 15 Price: 3 euros before midnight, Address: Obilicev venac 19 ly at KC Grad where the indefinable group plays Price: €16-€23 Price: 10 euros Price: €12 5 euros after midnight Price: 10 euros regularly. Petrovic, a multi-instrumentalist who Contact: +381 11 2206060 Contact: +381 63 848 4444 Contact: facebook.com/zaokret Contact: facebook.com/artspacekvaka22 Contact: +381 66 214 000 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 11 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE

A Belgrade New Year's Photo: Flickr/Sj liew

of the potential has-been international The end-of-year act that people might reluctantly turn up for, the city has gone ultra-populist, parties have offering shows by two of the biggest ever musical acts in these parts – Riblja already started Corba and Aca Lukas. For those unfamiliar with these two in Belgrade, but stars, Riblja Corba could be said to be don't worry, you the most popular rock band of former Yugoslavia and has been filling stadi- might just be ums for the better part of 40 years. Aca Lukas is equally huge and fashionably late equally popular, but in completely dif- ferent circles. If he isn't the king, then – now is when it he's certainly royalty when it comes to Serbian folk and the supreme ruler of Belgrade “splav” culture. In fact, his gets really good. Make no offences during the Serbian Orthodox Christmas celebration by following the tips below. Photo: Flickr/Miwok pseudonym, Lukas, (his real name is Aleksandar Vuksanovic) comes from David GALIC the name of the splav he cut his teeth in back in the day, one of the first and f you're anxious about having to most popular floating discos in the wait till Serbia does Christmas on city. How Not to Insult Orthodox January 7 to open your presents, While it may seem like the two main here's some consolation: the city acts are polar opposites, you might be already has a few gifts for you a surprised. Serbian pop culture and mu- Ibit early. Anyone looking for an actu- sic actually intertwines to a big extent Serbs at Christmas ally authentic Belgrade Christmas and and there's a real possibility that 80 New Year's should look for any one of per cent of Riblja Corba fans know the the events the city puts on as part of the words to every Aca Luka hit and vice After the calendar was reformed in that adults have tied either to one another Also, if you see straw scattered across And beware vegans, you won't usually Belgrade Winter series. Having already versa. There's little doubt that the rock- Orthodox the 16th Century, the Serbian Orthodox or to a chair. the floor, don't advise your host to get out get much of a choice as the main ingredi- begun at the start of December, “Open ers and the folkers, brought together Church, as well as the Orthodox Churches This is a common tradition on the the vacuum cleaner as the straw symbol- ent for meals is meat. Heart Square” kicked things off with a through alcohol and good cheer, will Christians in Serbia of Jerusalem, Russia, Macedonia, Georgia morning of Detinjci and, in order to be ises the stable where Jesus was born. Look out for one very important thing Christmas market at central Republic party together on the evening when have already begun and Ukraine, continued to calculate time untied, children have to give the adults a During this period, don't try to extin- before Christmas Day lunch: if you break Square, where you can treat yourself the world says goodbye to 2017 and according to the Julian calendar. present. guish any new fire that may be burning. On your tooth on something hard inside your early. It might even be dusted with snow. welcomes the new year. preparations for the While people now generally calculate While the third Sunday before Christ- this night, Serbs burn a part of the badnjak bread, don't be mad, as this means good But as the year draws to a close, the Bottom line, it's going to be one heck time using the Gregorian calendar, reli- mas is dedicated to children, the second in the house - if they have a wooden stove luck will follow you during the year. most important events become those of a party and might actually break re- three-day holiday, gious holidays are still celebrated accord- Sunday before is dedicated to mothers, or fireplace - or, if need be, in the apartment The bread traditionally eaten on that actually celebrate the year's end – cords when it comes to turn out and the ing to the Julian one. So Christmas for called Materice, and the last weekend be- block courtyard or back garden. Christmas Day is called cesnica and is the now famous New Year's concerts. number of tourists coming from far and here's our guide Orthodox believers is celebrated on Janu- fore is dedicated to fathers, called Oci. On Christmas Eve after dark, badnjak is a homemade loaf baked with a coin in- Traditionally, the city only puts on one near, especially old Yugoslav countries ary 7, two weeks later than the Catholic The same rule applies – do not try to even burned in front of churches across side. Before the meal starts, the family huge concert on December 31. But this One of the most popular rock band of former Yugoslavia, Riblja Corba, is holding a New Year-concert on December 31. Photo: Facebook/Riblja Corba like Slovenia and Croatia. to staying on your Church. free people who have been tied up as it the country, with much importance breaks the bread into pieces and each year, there will be not one, but three But if none of that floats your splav, But since preparations for Christmas will ruin the tradition. In order to be un- placed on making as many sparks fly as person start searching for a coin in his or open-air concerts, one each night until River Promenade, the new pedestrian The party continues the next day The third act for the night is Zeljko there's one more party on December host's good side this in Serbia start long before January 7, it is tied, adults have to give children gifts. possible when throwing your oak branch her slice. Good luck for the coming year the fireworks. area of the Belgrade Waterfront project with city officials putting on a little cur- Samardzic, who needs no introduc- 31, this one with a completely differ- Christmas. important to know that pressuring some- in the fire. The more sparks, the more is granted to whoever finds the coin. As a warm-up to all the parties, the and complex, located right on the river. tain-raiser to set the mood for the main tion among Balkan ladies. This dash- ent vibe. Jazz and classical fans will one to eat meat in the run up to Christmas BADNJAK BURNING good luck in the year to come. The Christmas celebration does not end city also organises a series of concerts The concert, no doubt aimed at throw- event on Sunday. ing Bosnian gentleman is the king of get to send 2017 off at the Sava Cen- might cause offence. And after all of this, if you were hop- on January 7, as it is a three-day festival. at Republic Square from December 25- ing a positive light on the controversial This gig will set up in front of the International Women's Day concerts tar, where top orchestras and soloists Many Orthodox Christians begin fast- But the main event for many begins on ing to get some proper meat on your During this period it is very important 29. Some of the acts set to perform this project, will feature popular Serbian National Parliament and features well- and has authored songs that work just will play popular pieces in an event ing 40 days before Christmas, which Christmas Eve, on January 6. Something plate, don't get too excited. The usual not to refuse alcoholic drinks offered by the year include blues gurus Texas Flood, rock bands Orthodox Celts and Nicim known Serbian musicians and bands, as well in intimate, smoky pubs as they called, with a wink, “Classy Celebra- Maja ZIVANOVIC means that Serbs observing the fast eat that would really insult a Serb host at this Christmas Eve dinner is substantial, but host, as it would be considered an insult. hip-hop stars THC La Familia, Prti BG, Izazvan. most notably the rock band Van Gogh, do in large arenas. So, if you're feeling tion of New Year“. Admission to this no meat, dairy products or eggs. stage of the holiday is for someone to restrictions on what may be consumed The most famous Christmas drink is and Bwana, indie rock legends Kanda Foreign tourists in Belgrade with a who, having been around since the particularly sentimental on this special one is free. hristmas for Orthodox Another perhaps surprising tradition is throw away an oak tree branch that they still apply. mulled red wine, spiced with little cinna- Kodza i Nebojsa, and DJs Kristijan Mol- taste for traditional Irish music should mid-1980s, have had more hits over Saturday night, pass by the National And if you have any energy left on Serbs is one of the most im- that in the three weeks before Christmas, have collected. Also note, on Christmas Day morning mon and sometimes vanilla or pepper. nar and Danijel Cehranov. definitely check this one out because, the years than you can count on both Parliament for some romance. the morning of January 1, check out the portant religious holidays family members give and receive gifts, but An oak tree branch - called badnjak - is it would be considered impolite to say And no matter how bad your morning With the last working day of 2017 even though they're home-grown, Or- hands. For those who don't like rock on When Sunday finally arrives, so does traditional event called “Open Heart and entails numerous the presents come in the form of a ran- a crucial ingredient to a proper Serbian the usual 'Good morning', as on this day hangover is, don't refuse to drink a small on Friday, December 29, it only makes thodox Celts are known for doing an a cold winter's night, the warmer, pop- the biggest party of the year. For those Street” in Svetogorska, a charity event traditions and customs, som. Christmas. On Christmas Eve morning, everyone is greeted with 'Isus se rodi' glass of rakija, as it is probably homemade sense to throw a party a day or two amazing job at interpreting Irish folk pier sounds of former Yugoslav band who decide to ditch the clubs and bars for children (and everyone else, really) Cwhich are good to know about if you So, on the third Sunday before Christ- Serbs go searching for a badnjak with (Christ is born) with the appropriate re- and, of course, very strong. early. Part one of the New Year's cel- classics in a hard rock style and their Zana will offer a retrospective of their and don't have a private party on, Bel- with music, shows, candy, costumes, want to ensure you don't inadvertently mas, which is dedicated to children and golden leaves, which is the local variant of sponse being 'Vaistinu se rodi´ (Truly, he With this insider guide, you should now ebration will take place on the Sava shows are always incredibly fun. best hits, old and new. grade has something special. Instead magicians, clowns and street food. offend your host. is called Detinjci, don't try to save children a Christmas tree. is born). be ready for Christmas in Serbia. Enjoy! 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 13 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE DINING OUT COMMENT

Some of the the food is of high quality. The bot- tom line is that this is a restaurant Hurdles for Vegans city’s gourmands not to be missed. Boasting a good wine selection too, it was recently have put their elected by website Before After as one of the top 10 bars in Belgrade. heads together The restaurant itself recommends in Serbia bubbles during December - from an to produce a list average prosecco to the Billecart- Salmon champagne. Rose wine is of great places only served in magnums because, according to the restaurant team, it “has to flow and it flows a lot”. They to enjoy a meal recommend the Rosé Château d'Esclans, the Whispering Angel or out during the Rock Angel. The bistro also offers live music evenings and, alongside holidays and the bubbles, it can be very pleasant indeed. The restaurant is open until throughout 2018. 7pm on New Year’s Eve and is closed on January 7.

Reviews by Duda&Vlada, Address: Nevesinjska 12 Gunnar SOMBY and Siri SOLLIE Phone: +381 600 162 856 Price guide: 1300-1600 dinars (12 – 14 uring 2017 the dining euros) per person for three courses out scene in Belgrade without drinks witnessed a number of changes – including the KAFANA CEDIC return of a number of Dyoung Serbian chefs who, having been If you feel like eating some tradi- trained abroad, have brought back in- tional Serbian food in the proper ternational flavours and dishes to local domaci (home) atmosphere, you restaurants. should check out Kafana Cedic. The Some restaurants appeared and oth- restaurant is a hidden gem and it ers disappeared, like the gourmand’s seems, by and large, only locals know favourite Oxalis, which some suggest about it. Located in the Cukarica dis- was one of the most creative restau- trict at Bele Vode, it is easiest to get to rants in the city last year. However, by taxi or car but, if you are looking fortunately, there are still many restau- to spend a nice evening with friends rants worth seeking out over the fes- or family, the trip is worthwhile. First tive period and throughout the year to of all, the atmosphere is just incred- come. ibly pleasant. The glass covered walls give you a feeling of being outdoors TRATTORIA CAMPANIA while sitting indoors, the service is excellent, the menu traditional and To put it simply, you will have a great the food is of high quality. We rec- time at Trattoria Campania. It serves ommend their speciality teletina simple, high-quality food made with ispod saca (veal steak prepared in a authentic regional ingredients. Bel- ceramic dish with baked potatoes). grade has some miles to go in terms of A Serbian classic that will fill your international cuisine, however, this Ital- stomach and complete your evening. ian Trattoria does not disappoint. We The restaurant is closed on January 1, loved everything – the concept, atmos- 6 and 7. If you want something different, healthy, a piece of art to be eaten, then vegan restaurants are a great place to go, writes the author. Photo: Facebook/Bananas - veggie & raw cuisine phere and food - and we will certainly be back for more as the a la carte menu Address: Vodovodska 119 Serbian cuisine is closely related to Church tradition. There are many with warm hearts and a soft touch. Certainly, bread remains the key promised as yet unexplored but eye- Phone: + 381 11 250 3509 or +381 631 Today, people the country's history and the many products in markets and stores that They are usually educated at various staple, followed by potatoes and then catching options. The restaurant serves 025 500 influences that brought different foods are marked as "posno" (items that do artistic faculties. There are many musi- beans. All of these basic traditional breakfasts, snacks and home cooking, Price guide: 1300-1800 dinars (11 – 16 can’t seem to to this region. There are still strong in- not contain meat, eggs and dairy prod- cians, painters and sculptors. With ve- foods are still present in the vegan diet. along with other authentic dishes from euros) per person for three courses fluences from Turkey and Germany, ucts). gan food, the main problem is the taste However, there are many reasons the Campania region, which could without drinks figure out how and also the Byzantine Empire. Today Christian fasting is not just absti- of the food for those meat eaters who for veganism: from ethical, environ- perhaps be enjoyed with a long spritz people cannot figure out how to eat nence from eating food but also from are unwilling to explore more of their mental, economical, to biological but drink. The restaurant is closed on Janu- The vegan dishes at Restaurant Mandala are created by the influential vegan chef Chad Sarno. Photo: Facebook/Mandala Restoran RESTAURANT to eat meat-free lunch without meat but, historically, bad thoughts, wishes and acts but also sense of taste. Therefore, these chefs also it means healthier living – and ary 1 and 7. MANDALA meat was, for the majority of people, it means multiplying love, prayers and prepare food skilfully and artistically, therefore happier living. Address: Brace Jugovica 3 RESTAURANT CREDO ATELJE KOD SMILJE but historically only on the menu for special occa- good deeds. Heading into Christmas combining many different ingredients According to statistics from the Address: Kneza Sime Markovica 10 Phone: +381 11 328 1701 Now, if you are vegan or vegetar- sions, such as weddings, Christmas, season in Serbia, it is a tradition to fast and thinking about the broad spec- non-profit vegan group ADAPTT, 150 Phone: +381 11 311 5531 Price Guide: 1300-1800 dinars (11 – 14 Nenad Jovanovic is one example of Another safe bet for a pleasant even- ian, Belgrade has a new casual din- most people Easter etc. 40 days before Christmas. As vegans trum of nutrients needed for healthy billion land and marine animals are Price Guide: 1500-1900 dinars (12-16 euros) per person for three courses a returning Serbian chef. After several ing is the cosy and friendly family-run ing and brassiere style vegetarian During Christmas and New Year's are always 'fasting', they share this ex- and delicious meals. killed every year. Some claim that euros) per person for three courses without drinks years at the three-star Michelin restau- restaurant Atelje kod Smilje, meaning restaurant located in the heart of only ate meat Eve celebrations, people spend much perience of purity of spirit: there is less From the start of the EXIT festival every vegetarian saves from 371 to without drinks rant Geranium in Copenhagen, and Studio at Smilja’s or Atelier chez Smilja. the centre at Kosancicev Venac 9. time with loved ones. In family circles, energy for gossiping about others and at the beginning of July until the end 582 animals from death annually. In RESTAURANT ENSO some years in Switzerland, he is now The restaurant does a bit of everything The restaurant opened in March on special only a minority are vegans but there is getting angry. It takes a lot less energy of summer, Novi Sad is full of foreign- terms of the economic arguments, just ENDORFIN GASTROPUB at Restaurant Credo. The restaurant is – serving as a guest house, a restaurant 2017 and has already managed to always some type of food for them on to love, understand people and give all ers who can choose from many good one kilogram of farmed animal meat Enso is not new but established it- located at the new Marriot Courtyard, with home-made food, and hosting oc- secure admirers. All the ingredients occasions such the dining table. back with a smile. vegan restaurants. Strangely enough, needs several kilograms of planted The Endorfin Bar was a newcomer to self in 2017 as the master of gourmet next to the National Theatre. Together casional art exhibitions and evenings are organic and the menu is fully There are vegan (posne) cabbage Skilfully prepared vegan food is in Belgrade there are fewer vegan res- food. Also, meat production requires the Belgrade restaurant scene in 2017. set menus paired with excellent wines with Hotel Manager Robert Gasser, they with live music. It is hidden in Smil- vegetarian, with as much as 70 per wrapped spring rolls, also bean cas- very rich in nutrients and also very taurants. Many restaurants in Novi Sad a much higher amount of water than Located in the Dorcol district at the and craft beers. Their recent five-course have turned a rather dull hotel restau- janiceva street in the heart of Vracar cent of the menu offering strictly as weddings serole, peppers stuffed with rice, a pea tasty. Many people don't have the wouldn't survive without vegan visi- vegetables. The Food and Agriculture corner of Brace Jugovica and Kneginje menu dégustation paired with five ex- rant into a gourmet heaven. Jovanovic district. We left with full bellies and vegan dishes. In terms of the wine stew, and for breakfast Serbian rata- financial means to eat regularly in tors to the EXIT festival. These young Organization of the United Nations Ljubice, it is closely connected to the cellent craft beers from Kabinet was an only uses local products and has cre- content hearts and will surely return, as selection, you have organic wines and Christmas. touille made with red peppers, onion restaurants. Guests are inspired with people occupy those small oases of ve- estimates the meat industry is respon- Kabinet Brewery as they serve many explosion in flavours from the combina- ated some new twists to local dishes. we found Atelje kod Smilje a fantastic to choose from, and the restaurant and tomato. For afters there are differ- healthy ingredients so they can copy gan food. Recently, there are more and sible for 18 per cent of all greenhouse of Kabinet’s excellent craft beers on tap, tion of food and drink. We suggest try- Try their Sunday Bubbly Brunch on option for a casual meal. The restaurant also seeks to collaborate with local ent pies: potato pie or fruit pies, such recipes at home. So vegans are stimu- more places in Serbian cities that offer gases released worldwide. This, in and a lot more international beers from ing one of the upcoming Wine Makers New Year’s Eve, December 31, a tradi- is closed on January 1 and 7. wineries such as the Winery Chicha- Goran BOROJA as cherry or apple pie with cinnamon lated to discover their own creative vegan food. In regular restaurants, ve- turn, fuels the environmental argu- bottles. Being also a gastropub, their dinners at Enso. For New Year’s Eve, the tion common at many fabulous hotel teau from Sremska Mitrovica. Try and nuts. cooking. They are usually inclined to gan options are often limited to salads ments for veganism in terms of land, excellent chef serves breakfast, lunch restaurant is preparing a Tasting Menu restaurants in Asia. The restaurant will Address: Smiljaniceva 40 their mushroom cheese burger or eing vegan in Serbia has its During these winter celebrations cook for others and welcome every- and some potato-based dishes. water and air pollution. and evening dishes, all created with a evening, the price is 5300 dinars (ap- also offer their Sunday brunch along- Phone: +381 11 344 0106 their avocado tartin with roasted sea difficulties because of the people gain some extra weight which one with their newly crafted cooking The potato was introduced to Serbia If the previous paragraphs were distinctly international taste and style. proximately 50 euros) without drinks. side live music and will stay open until Price Guide: 1300-1600 dinars (12 – 14 weed. The restaurant is open until widespread belief that it is not a problem for vegans because artistry. They are inspired to present at the beginning of the 19th Century - it read closely, perhaps one of your Attend one of their jazz nights at The restaurant will remain open at regu- 8pm. Credo will maintain regular work- euros) per person for three courses 8pm on New Year’s Eve and is closed is necessary to eat meat to they don't eat dairy cakes and cook- their veganism as "you can eat vegan was the most important widely culti- New Year's resolutions could be try weekends and order a tasty meal from lar working hours during the holidays. ing hours during the holidays. without drinks on January 7. stay healthy – particularly ies. But, vegans can easily prepare food and be fully satisfied". vated food throughout Europe at the out some vegan food and restaurants. their menu and drink Olga, an imperial Bin terms of blood tests – and new vegan chocolate balls with hazelnuts and If you want something different, time. The potato was widely used as Even just the cookies. There are only porter from Kabinet: pure bliss! Address: Mitropolita Petra 8 Address: Trg Republike, Vasina 2 CVECE ZLA Address: Kosancicev Venac 9 products are regarded as new-fangled. dates. Everyone will surely take a bite healthy, a piece of art to be eaten, then a cheap substitute for bread because self-imposed hurdles here, and why Endorfin is open every day during Phone: +381 63 594 924 Phone: +381 11 400 3003 Phone: +381 11 404 2222 The vegan viewpoint is usually ig- of these delicious cookies. vegan restaurants are a great place to mill workers took one tenth of flour for not try something that will definitely the holidays, and on New Year’s Eve the Price Guide: 2500- 4000 dinars (20– Price Guide: 3000 - 4000 dinars (27 – Cvece Zla – or flower of evil – is Price guide: 2500-3000 dinars (23– nored but luckily for vegans, plenty of There are no vegan communities go. their service, giving rise to the saying: put some extra smiles on our faces. restaurant will stay open until the early 35 euros) per person for three courses 37 euros) per person for three courses a favourite. The restaurant is an 27 euros) per person for three courses national dishes in Serbia do not con- in Serbia but many people fast before Business in vegan restaurants is not 'Potato is bread without usury (inter- That is all we wish for one another af- hours. without drinks without drinks alternative-experimental bistro and without drinks tain meat. Christmas as part of the Orthodox all about profit. Chefs prepare meals est)'. ter all. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 15 FESTIVE GUIDE FESTIVE GUIDE CLUBBING FINDING COUNT AND LIVE MUSIC

FRIDAY DECEMBER 22 • Danijel Cehranov All Night Long, • Idemo Na Mars, Drugstore, Bulevar VRONSKY IN SERBIA Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Massimo Savic, Sava Centar, Milentija 11pm • YES: Identified Patient (Pinkman Popovica 9, 8pm • Captain Hook live! Imago CUK, / Amsterdam), 20/44, Usce bb, Fact meets fic- There, Raevsky's troubles continued, • The Bestbeat - Beatles tribute, Dom Decanska 14, 11pm 11pm as Chernyayev apparently did not look Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm • Фake Casual, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, • Central Dance Event, Hangar, tion in one man's kindly on him and they even got into • Virvel, Baobab, Elektropionir, 7pm Knezopoljska 3, 11pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm • CDE promo party: Charlotte • At Four, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa a fight after Raevsky ordered a retreat • Lacni Franc, Dom Omladine, de Witte & La Fleur, Hangar, 22, 4am pursuit to uncov- from one position against the general's Makedonska 22, 9pm Knezopoljska 3, 11pm • Another Dimension - Pre New Year wishes. • Makao, BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita • Veliki Mir, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, event, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, er the real story Even though they made up, the worst Petra 8, 10pm 8pm 11pm , Ciglana, Slanacki put 26, 10pm , KPTM, was soon to come for the young count. • JJ 5 • PARTY at Four | 33.10.3402 behind one of • Jazz Duo, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Zorza Klemensoa 22, 4am SUNDAY DECEMBER 31 A little after two weeks since arriving in • Fish In Oil, Soul Society Club, Mira • Critical Bass, KPTM, Zorza literature's most Serbia, on 2 September 1876, Raevsky Trailovic Square, 10pm Klemensoa 22, 11pm • Di Luna Blues Band NYE Party, KOLARAC was killed by shrapnel from a Turkish • Plastic Sunday + The Filters, Kvaka • Fam, Secer Club, Svetogorska 17, Soul Society Club, Mira Trailovic famous home- grenade while defending the village of 22, Ruzveltova 39, 10pm 11pm Square, 10pm • Mile Voli Disko, Grad Cultural Centre, • Bikini Art Residency NYE, Androvac in Southern Serbia. PROGRAMME Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 24 Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana wreckers. His body was quickly buried in the • Kobosil (Ostgut Ton, MDR / DE), 115, 11pm grounds of the nearby St Roman Mon- Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana • Massimo Savic, Sava Centar, • NYE Drugstore w/ ZADIG, Carlos astery in Djunis, where a tombstone 115, 11pm Milentija Popovica 9, 8pm Souffront, Anastasia Kristensen, Srdjan GARCEVIC with his name still stands. However, • Schwabe (Disco Not Disco) All Night • Happy People | Marko Vuković b2b Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana Long, 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Petar Cvetković b2b Lale, KPTM, 115, 11pm after two weeks his remains were sent • Hot Fridays with DJ Malina, Tranzit Zorza Klemensoa 22, 5am • NYE party, O.U.R. Pub, Beogradska n 1878 Leo Tolstoy somewhat to Belgrade, where there was a major Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11pm 71, 10pm SUNDAY, DECEMBER 24 professor Marija Spengler abruptly ended the story of des- ceremony in his honour, and where his • Aleksandra Duende, Kaldrma Bar, MONDAY DECEMBER 25 • NYE Alternative 2018, Dorcol Platz, Production: Music Centre perate and broken Count Vron- mother received his body and buried it Skadarska 40, 8pm Dobracina 59b, 10pm Concert Hall, 11am Admission free sky in Anna Karenina by send- in the Raevsky family tomb. • k o s m o s [22.12], DOT, Francuska 6, • Misko Plavi Trio, Grad Cultural • Girls Boys and Toys, BitefArtCafe, 11pm Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Final Concert/ Opera Master Class ing him to Serbia to fight in the Although there are legends that his • CHV_city of pats, Ljubimac, Cetinjska • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), Mr. • NYE w/ BARIS K (Istanbul / TR) of Djordje Nesic WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 27 ISerbo-Turkish War of 1876-1878, where heart is still buried in St Roman, as a 15, 8pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am Dj Brka Klub, 20/44, Usce bb, Production: Music Centre he sought adventure, or even death, as token of his love of Serbia, Professor • Psihoaktiv Trip, KPTM, Zorza 10pm Admission free Concert Hall, 8pm Klemensoa 22, 11pm TUESDAY DECEMBER 26 • Diynamic Showcase NYE penance for his famously ill-fated affair. Potocan considers it unlikely, given the Symphony Orchestra & Choir A century and a bit later, this slightly Orthodox Church burial customs. Nev- • Overheat, Secer Club, Svetogorska w/ Kollektiv Turmstrasse, 17, 11pm • Rade Serbedzija, National Theatre Magdalena, Lehar, Hangar, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 24 RTS inelegant end to the story of one of the ertheless, there is a beautiful reminder • Dooshan & Nebojsa Intruder, in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8pm Knezopoljska 3, 11pm Conductor: Bojan Sudjic protagonists of this classic caught the of Raevsky's tragic last visit to Serbia: an Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Bez Buke (Javno Pakovanje), Ana • 39.2 NYE 2018, KPTM, Zorza Concert Hall, 8pm Programme: Handel/Messiah attention of Budimir Potocan while ornate Russian-style chapel built in the Avramov, Ana Curcin, Ilija Ludvig Klemensoa 22, 10pm Hypercube/ Concert Season Production: RTS Music Pro- he was studying world literature in village of Gornji Androvac by his sister- SATURDAY DECEMBER 23 and Kralj Cacka, Kulturni Centar • Tranzit NYE, Tranzit Bar, Brace 2017/2018. duction REX, Jevrejska 16, 8pm Krsmanovica 8, 10pm Belgrade. Knowing Tolstoy's habit of in-law. MUZIKON Chamber Orchestra • Obojeni Program, Vizelj, Dom • Malinada, Ludost bar, Karadjordjeva • NYE in Ciglana feat. Naked, Ciglana, moulding his characters on real people, The final mystery remains: was there Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm 44, 9pm Slanacki put 26, 9pm Soloist: Milos Petrovic, violin, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28 he was intrigued about the life of a man a tragic love - Raevsky's 'Anna Karenina' • Amaro Del, Ciglana Klub, Slanacki put • Dizel Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, • New Year's Eve at Ludost, Ludost concert master who was an inspiration for Count Vron- - that spurred him to join the war? 26, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 12am Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Programme: J S Bach, Men- Music Gallery, 6pm sky and his fate after arriving in Serbia. • Smoke’n’soul, Dom Omladine, • NYE 2018 Hype, Hype, delssohn , Mozart, Janacek New Year's Concert of Students Potocan, who is now a professor of Makedonska 22, 9pm WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 27 Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm Production: MUZIKON Music of the Music Workshop Magic After extensive • Electric funx, BitefArtCafe, • Kaldrma NYE Party, Kaldrma Bar, Association Flute journalism at Megatrend University in Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm • Girls are gonna get wild! (house), Skadarska 40, 8pm Belgrade, came back to the subject in • MaraQYa, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am • Rihanna Night NYE 2018, Secer Ticket fees: 800, 1000 dinars Ticket fees: 300 dinars 1987, when he was writing a piece for research, 9pm Club, Svetogorska 17, 10pm Politika, a Serbian daily for which he • Pera Krstajic E P I P H A N Y, Soul THURSDAY DECEMBER 28 • NYE 4K18, Cetinjska 15, 9pm MONDAY, DECEMBER 25 SATURDAY, DECEMBER 30 worked at the time. Using the extensive Potocan came Society Club, Mira Trailovic Square, • Polet NYE Party – Gistro Pop & 10pm • Nalex & Djaphex, Grad Cultural Ljubicice, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 9pm biographical detail that Tolstoy provid- Music Gallery, 6:30pm Concert Hall, 11am to the conclusion • Motha Afrika, Grad Cultural Center, Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm • NYE Party @ DOT, DOT, Francuska Concert of pupils of the Piano Small School of Bonton/How to ed for the character of Count Vronsky, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm • Digresija, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 6, 11pm School and Listen to the Music from his looks and military career to • KST Costume Ball, KST, Bulevar 15, 9pm • NYE @ Kvaka, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova the young pianists of the Music Host: Milos Milovanovic his education at Moscow's Lomonosov that Vronsky kralja Aleksandra 73, 10.30pm • FLESH COMMUNITY LIVE / 39, 10pm • Sonja Sajzor, Drugstore, Bulevar Workshop Magic Flute Production: Music Centre University, Potocan started to unearth HETEM / Neomodern / Koprivica was based on Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Zvonimir, 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm MONDAY JANUARY 01 Ticket fees: 300 dinars Ticket fees: 200 dinars the exciting story of his real world • Trole & Vlada Russ (Body'n balls), • Mthaza / Neutron / Knower, DOT, counterpart. Count Nikolay 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Francuska 6, 11pm • VIS Limunada, Beogradski MONDAY, DECEMBER 25 SATURDAY, DECEMBER 30 After extensive research, Potocan • Chavo Loco meets Mr. Merick, Slageri, Grad Cultural Centre, Brace came to the conclusion that Vron- Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Krsmanovic 4, 10pm Nikolayevich • Kanda Kodza i Nebojsa, SubBeerni Concert Hall, 8pm Hall, 8pm sky was based on Count Nikolay FRIDAY DECEMBER 29 Centar, Cetinjska 15, 9:55pm Belgrade String Orchestra Dusan New Trinity Baroque's Annual Nikolayevich Raevsky, scion of a fa- Raevsky, scion of • NY party vol.2, BitefArtCafe, Skovran Christmas Concert by Candle- mous Russian noble family and a dis- • Lezz go, BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Soloist: Sreten Krstic, violin light tant relative of Tolstoy's, who died fight- a famous Russian Petra 8, 10pm • Vatra, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Programme: Bach, Vivaldi, , Club Fest, ing against the Ottomans in Serbia in • Direktori, Mister No 11pm TUESDAY, DECEMBER 26 Corelli, Scarlatti, Teleman Gradski Park Zemun, 10pm • Kristijan Molnar All Night Long, 1876. noble family and • Bitipatibi, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Ticket fees: 500 dinars After his first story on the subject 15, 9pm Music Gallery, 6pm of Raevsky and Vronsky was well re- a distant relative • Tamara Jokic S V E T U S O B I, Soul TUESDAY JANUARY 02 Final concert of the piano course TUESDAY, JANUARY 3 ceived, Potocan decided to pursue his Society Club, Mira Trailovic Square, by prof. Jokut Mihailovic interest further and dig deeper into of Tolstoy's, who FREE COPY 10pm • Artan Lili, Elektropionir, Cetinjska Admission free Concert Hall, 12pm • Midnight Orient 2nd Birthday w/ 15, 9pm the story of this vagabonding cavalry The most prominent young Moussaka (live) & As Smooth • Hurleur/Switch, Jazz Bar Centar, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 27 musician for 2017 officer whose story turned out to be as died fighting Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. As, Grad Cultural Center, Brace Knez Mihajlova 6, 10pm exciting as the one of his fictionalised Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Krsmanovica 4, 11pm • Fast Forward the Future, Kinky ArtLink Award counterpart. against the Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 • Headless Horseman (Berlin), Club, Nikole Spasica 3, 11pm Music Gallery, 6pm Production – Music Centre and Much like Vronsky, who was de- Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana Cycle: Music Workshop ArtLink 115, 11pm THURSDAY JANUARY 04 scribed as "a perfect specimen of Peters- Ottomans in Concert of Students – class of Admission free BIRN editorial team: • Roll the Drums presents: burg's gilded youth", young Raevsky Serbia in 1876. Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, Halogenix & MC Fox, DOT, • Ilija Mihailovic Soul Bridge enjoyed the benefits of a distinguished Portrait of Count Nikolay Nikolayevich Raevsky. Photo: Wikipedia/PetarM belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Francuska 6, 11pm concert, Soul Society Club, Mira , Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, Trailovic Square, 10pm family and excellent career. His grand- eu.com • Mish Mash father achieved fame at Borodino, the vestigate the readiness of the Serbian from the likes of French novelist Victor Russian General Mikhail Chern- Potocan believes that there must 8pm Sales & Marketing: Marija • Last BeGeFank, KPTM, Zorza FRIDAY JANUARY 05 site of a decisive battle in Napoleon's artillery and cavalry and routes around Hugo and Giuseppe Garibaldi, a general yayev, victorious from campaigns in have been someone, given his exten- Petrovic Klemensoa 22, 11pm failed conquest of Russia, where he was Serbia and Bosnia, in preparation for and a key figure in the struggle for Ital- the Russian Far East, came to Serbia sive travels and as he left everything to Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Fuzzbox, Fest, Gradski Park 2, charged with a critical strategic posi- a potential new war against the Otto- ian unification. and pledged allegiance to Prince Milan go to Serbia and sacrifice himself. SATURDAY DECEMBER 30 Zemun, 11pm [email protected] tion, Raevsky redoubt, which is now mans. However, the greatest support came to lead the Serbian Army, and Tchaiko- Maybe we will find out at some • Hieroglyphics Decoded, Zappa Subscription & Distribution: marked by a monument. Born in 1839, After returning to Russia, where he from Russia, as in the 1870s the spirit vsky even composed a Serbo-Russian point, as Potocan remains determined • Sergio Lounge, Grad Cultural Center, Barka, Usce bb, 11pm TRA T T O R I A Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm • Mancha & Mark Panic, DOT, young Raevsky was educated in Maths fought in the far east and was promoted of Pan-Slavism, a movement for the March for the occasion. to continue his research and has re- Goran Knezevic +381 63 562 265 • Dza ili Bu, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, Francuska 6, 11pm PIZZER I A and Physics at Lomonosov University, to the rank of colonel, Raevsky was once emancipation of and co-operation be- Count Raevsky enlisted as soon as cently published a book on the subject: 10pm • Phonologic Beats, Kinky Club, named after his maternal ancestor, and again drawn back to Serbia as hostilities tween Slavic peoples, was in full bloom. the war broke out in June 1876, how- Vronsky in Serbia - Missions of Colonel [email protected] • Gift, BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita Petra Nikole Spasica 3, 11pm then joined an elite Russian cavalry with the Ottoman Empire flared up after Although Tolstoy as a pacifist was very ever, from the beginning things went Raevsky in 1867 and 1876. Printing: POLITIKA stamparija 8, 10pm d.o.o. • Popecitelji, Elektropionir, Cetinjska SATURDAY JANUARY 06 unit, the Imperial Guard Hussars. the 1875 Herzegovina revolt, led by eth- sceptical of Pan-Slavism, which even wrong for him. He complained to his Even without Karenina, it is no won- Nebojsina 8 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade 15, 9pm During his service he became in- nic Serbs against Ottoman rule, and the led to clashes with the editor of Anna sister-in-law that he was held back by der that the story of this tragic young • Robert Glasper Belgrade • Djura i Mornari, Elektropionir, 011/3863-999 Insight terested in the status of South Slavic subsequent declaration of war between Karenina, many Russian youths volun- administration from joining the fight- colonel, who in many ways encapsu- Experiment, Soul Society Club, Mira Cetinjska 15, 9pm [email protected] COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Trailovic Square, 10pm states and was sent on a secret mission Serbia and the Ottomans in 1876. teered to fight with their 'Slavic breth- ing. After a roughly three week delay, lated a part of Imperial Russian high www.restoranamici.rs to Serbia in 1867, as the Ottoman forces This war between the tiny Serbian ren', which was also in line with the Rus- he arrived in Belgrade via Odessa in society in the late 19th Century, served Circulation: 2,000 • Stuttgart Online, Kvaka 22, THURSDAY JANUARY 11 Ruzveltova 39, 10pm were retreating from their garrisons in state and the great Ottoman Empire be- sian Empire's pretensions to supplant August 1876 and reported for duty to as an inspiration for one of the most • Sergio Lounge, Grad Cultural Center, • Talasna D[r]uzina, KST, Bulevar Serbia. His correspondence from the came a bit of a cause celebre in Europe the ailing Ottomans in their control of General Chernyayev, who was leading famous homewreckers in world litera- Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm Kralja Aleksandra 73, 11pm period suggests that he was sent to in- with calls in support of Serbia coming the Balkans. the Serbian troops. ture. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 22, 2017 - Thursday, January 11, 2018 FESTIVE GUIDE

Opera, Ballet FRIDAY DECEMBER 29 • Video Tales - Once Upon the WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 27 SUNDAY DECEMBER 24 Balkans, Gallery Polet, Cetinjska 15, and Classical • Belgrade Philharmonic 6:30pm • Comics Books for Everyone, Dom • Ivanov (Chekov), National Theatre Orchestra, Alan Bjelinski • Book Presentation “Happy Man“, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 6pm in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm FRIDAY DECEMBER 22 (conductor), Ilija M. Endowment, Pedja Ristic, Belgrade City Library, • Lasciar Vibrare, Studentski Grad • Free Exchange Hotel (Feydeau), Studentski trg 5, 8pm Knez Mihajlova 56, 7pm Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Belgrade Philharmonic • Ballet: Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky), • Evolution of Chinese Fashion Djindjica 179, 8pm MIlana 50, 8pm Orchestra, Gabriel Feltz National Theatre in Belgrade, and Style of Dress, Studenstki Grad • New Vibrations – Feminist New (conductor), Radovan Vlatkovic Francuska 3, 7:30pm Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Year’s Resolutions, Grad Cultural MONDAY DECEMBER 25 and Nikola Ciric (horns), Ilija M. Djindjica 179, 7pm Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 30 • Exhibition: Vojkan, Novovic, 9pm • The Great Drama (Kovacevic), • Ivan Bosiljcic, Madlenianum Luka Lazovic, Danilo Jeknic, National Theatre in Belgrade, Opera and Theatre, Glavna 32, • Small School of Bonton/How Studenstki Grad Cultural Centre, THURSDAY DECEMBER 28 Francuska 3, 7:30pm 7:30pm to Listen to the Music, Ilija M. Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm • Little Marital Crimes (Schmitt), Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am • My movie is better than yours, • British Film Program, Yugoslav National Theatre in Belgrade, SATURDAY DECEMBER 23 • New Trinity Baroque’s Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, Film Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 5pm Francuska 3, 8:30pm Annual Christmas Concert by 7pm • Pop Literature, Studentski Grad • Free Exchange Hotel (Feydeau), • Music School Lisinski, Ilija M. Candlelight, Ilija M. Endowment, • Book presentation “Exoticism Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm Studentski trg 5, 8pm and Cannibalism”, Serbian Djindjica 179, 7pm MIlana 50, 8pm • Poetry Live! Abdulah Sidran, Ilija • Opera: Die Fledermaus (Strauss), Literary Society, Francuska 7, 8pm M. Endowment, Studentski trg 5, National Theatre in Belgrade, FRIDAY DECEMBER 29 TUESDAY DECEMBER 26 7pm Francuska 3, 7:30pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 23 • Dorcol New Year's Bazaar, Dorcol • The Blacksmiths (Nikolic), SUNDAY DECEMBER 24 TUESDAY JANUARY 02 • Harry Potter and the Order of the Platz, Dobracina 59b, 2pm National Theatre in Belgrade, Phoenix, Yugoslav Film Archive, Francuska 3, 8:30pm • Muzikon Chamber Orchestra, • The Most Prominent Young Uzun Mirkova 1, 11am SATURDAY DECEMBER 30 • Accidental Death of an Anarchist Milos Petrovic (violin), Ilija M. Musician for 2017 – ArtLink • Exhibition: “Extended Area”, (Fo), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Award, Ilija M. Endowment, Nemanja Ladjic, Cultural Centre of • Harry Potter and the Deathly Kralja MIlana 50, 8pm Studentski trg 5, 12pm Belgrade, Trg Republike 5, 12pm Hallows: Part 1, Yugoslav Film MONDAY DECEMBER 25 • Poetry live, Abdulah Sidran, Ilija Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 11am WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 27 WEDNESDAY JANUARY 03 M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • Harry Potter and the Deathly • Concert of Participants of Music trg 5, 7pm Hallows: Part 2, Yugoslav Film • Richard The Third Workshop Magic Flute, Ilija M. • Opera: Die Fledermaus (Strauss), • Loving Vincent, Dom Omladine, Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 2pm (Shakespeare), National Theatre in Endowment, Studentski trg 5, National Theatre in Belgrade, Makedonska 22, 8pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm 6:30pm Francuska 3, 7:30pm WEDNESDAY JANUARY 03 • My Prizes (Bernhard), National • Stefan Ivkovic (piano), Serbian SUNDAY DECEMBER 24 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Academy of Sciences and Arts, FRIDAY JANUARY 05 • Exhibition: Vojkan, Novovic, 8:30pm Knez Mihajlova 35, 6pm • Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Luka Lazovic, Danilo Jeknic, • Einstein’s Dreams (Lightman), • Opera: Don Pasquale (Donizetti), Prince, Yugoslav Film Archive, Studenstki Grad Cultural Centre, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja TUESDAY DECEMBER 26 National Theatre in Belgrade, Uzun Mirkova 1, 11am Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm MIlana 50, 8pm Francuska 3, 7:30pm • Harry Potter and the Deathly • Final concert of the piano Hallows: Part 1, Yugoslav Film WEDNESDAY JANUARY 10 THURSDAY DECEMBER 28 course by prof. Jokut Mihailovic, FRIDAY JANUARY 12 Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 2pm Ilija M. Endowment, Studentski trg • Poetry Night, Polet, Cetinjska 15, • The Liar and the Archliar 5, 6pm • Serbian Orthodox Cantors, Ilija M. MONDAY DECEMBER 25 8pm (Sterija), National Theatre in • Ensemble KOLO, Ilija M. Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8:30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Vertical jazz, Studentski Kulturni FRIDAY JANUARY 12 Centar, Kralja Milana 48, 7pm FRIDAY DECEMBER 29 WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 27 Exhibitions • Delicatessen Monday, Grad • American Pop Art, Heritage House, Cultural Centre, Brace Krsmanovica Knez Mihajlova 46, 7pm • Sexual Perversity in Chicago • Concert of Students – class of and Events 4, 7pm (Mamet), Save Center, Milentija professor Marija Spengler, Ilija M. Popovica 9, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm FRIDAY DECEMBER 22 TUESDAY DECEMBER 26 Theatre • Symphony Orchestra & Choir SATURDAY DECEMBER 30 RTS, Bojan Sudjic (conductor), • Exhibition: “Subject and Object”, • The Fascinating World FRIDAY DECEMBER 22 Ilija M. Endowment, Studentski trg Vladimir Nikolic, Centre for of Nanoscience and • The Lower Depths (Gorky), 5, 8pm Graphic and Visual Research Nanotechnology, a Lecture Cycle, • The Patriots (Sterija), National National Theatre in Belgrade, Academy/Faculty of Fine Arts, Serbian Academy of Sciences, and Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Francuska 3, 8:30pm THURSDAY DECEMBER 28 Pariska 16, 10am Arts, Knez Mihajlova 35, 12pm 7:30pm • Exhibition: “Scenes”, Museum of • Cultural Diplomacy – Role and WEDNESDAY JANUARY 03 • Ivan Basic (piano), Serbian Natural History, Kalemegdan, 2pm Importance of International SATURDAY DECEMBER 23 Academy of Sciences and Arts, • Exhibition: “Contact 2017”, Organizations, Ilija M. Kolarac • Coffee White (Popovic), National Knez Mihajlova 35, 6pm international exhibition, Gallery Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • Hasan Aga’s Wife (Simovic), Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Magic Flute New Year’s Concert, Petak, Lomina 14, 5pm • Exhibition: “Small Format”, National Theatre in Belgrade, 8.30pm Ilija M. Endowment, Studentski trg • Cycles: Violence Against ULUPUDS Gallery, Uzun Mirkova Francuska 3, 8:30pm 5, 6pm Children in the Family, Ilija M. 12, 7pm • Einstein’s Dreams (Lightman), THURSDAY JANUARY 04 • Belgrade Philharmonic Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg • Ansamble “Kolo”, Ilija M. Kolarac Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Orchestra, Alan Bjelinski 5, 6pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm MIlana 50, 8pm • Mary Stuart (Schiller), National (conductor), Ilija M. Endowment, • Fijuk Sajam, IMAGO CUK – Centar • Language Cafe, Grad Cultural • Hopelessness, Bitef Theatre, Mira Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Urbane Kulture, Decanska 14, 5pm Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm Trailovic Square, 8pm 7:30pm

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