2016 2017 best of English edition

www.petitfute.uk.com 509615_2Cb.indd 1 18/04/2016 08:33:41 PUBLISHING Collection Directors and Authors: Dominique AUZIAS Dominique AUZIAS Welcome With the cooperation of Claude MAILLERET Authors: Robert GERMAIN, Marielle BRIE, Emmanuelle FINET, Marie Pierre CREON, Anaïs LERMA, TO PARIS ! Vincent DELMAS, Claire DELBOS, Cyrille CHARPENTIER, Isabelle SPIRI, Marie BERTHIER, Alice PAPIN, Sydney ABANCOURT, Léa LOUIS,Jean-Baptiste THIBAUT, Stéphane POCIDALO, Margot CARRAU, Philippe TOINARD, Michel DOUSSOT, Marion GREGOIRE, Julie EZNBERG, Jean‑Paul LABOURDETTE, Dominique AUZIAS et alter Publishing Director: Stéphan SZEREMETA Publishing Team: François TOURNIE, Maurane CHEVALIER, Silvia FOLIGNO, Bénédicte PETIT STUDIO Made for English-speaking people looking for good tips Studio Manager: Sophie LECHERTIER and good addresses in Paris, Best of Paris by Petit Futé is assisted by Romain AUDREN Layout: Julie BORDES, Sandrine MECKING, Delphine an essential how-to guide to find an accommodation, a PAGANO, Laurie PILLOIS restaurant, to organize your visits and outings to be sure Pictures Management and Mapping: Audrey LALOY you will not get lost in the capital city of . It is true WEB that Paris is huge and full of charm : it has many sites to visit Web Director: Louis GENEAU de LAMARLIERE Technical Director: Lionel CAZAUMAYOU like the , Notre Dame de Paris and , Web Management and Development: and features museums of high cultural interest, like the Jean-Marc REYMUND, Cédric MAILLOUX et Florian FAZER Community Manager: Cyprien de CANSON , the Musée d’Orsay and the Musée National d’Art PUBLICITY TEAM Moderne – . But Paris is also the Parisian Local Publicity Manager: Caroline CHOLLET way of life, with its myriad of restaurants, bistros and cafes, Local Publicity Responsible: Michel GRANSEIGNE its markets and shops offering a large choice of local products Customer Relationship Management: Vimla MEETTOO et Sandra RUFFIEUX to enjoy the french gastronomy. Last but not least, as a NATIONAL PUBLICITY TEAM fashion capital, Paris is a paradise for all the fashionistas Advertising Managers: Caroline AUBRY, François with its leading designers and iconic brands.You can find BRIANCON-MARJOLLET, Perrine DE CARNE MARCEIN, Caroline GENTELET, Florian MEYBERGER et Caroline PREAU some of the most famous couture houses in Paris walking INTERNATIONAL PUBLICITY TEAM down the Champs-Elysées and Avenue Montaigne. But Advertising Managers: Jean-Marc FARAGUET, you can also go shopping in some small traditional shops Guillaume LABOUREUR assistés d’Elisa MORLAND and department stores.That’s why Paris is ranked first CIRCULATION AND PROMOTION european city as a touristic destination, attracting more Sales Promotion Director: Bénédicte MOULET assistée d’Aissatou DIOP et Alicia FILANKEMBO than 27 million tourists each year. With this guidebook, Petit Sales Manager: Jean-Pierre GHEZ assisté de Nathalie Futé has done everything possible to give you a selection of GONCALVES addresses gathering the must-sees as the hidden treasures Press-Sponsors Partnership Management: Jean-Mary MARCHAL for a successful stay in the City of Light and to enjoy the ADMINISTRATION best of Paris. Welcome to Paris ! Chairman: Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE Financial Director: Gérard BRODIN Human Resources Director: Dina BOURDEAU assistée de Sandra MORAIS et Vianney LAVERNE Information Technology Manager: Pascal LE GOFF Accounting: Valérie DECOTTIGNIES assistée de Jeannine DEMIRDJIAN, Christelle MANEBARD et Adrien PRIGENT Collection: Fabien BONNAN assisté de Sandra BRIJLALL Switchboard: Jehanne AOUMEUR PETIT FUTE BEST OF PARIS 2016 - 2017 Dominique Auzias founded Le Petit Futé. It is published by Les Nouvelles Editions de l’Université 18, rue des Volontaires - 75015 Paris. & 01 53 69 70 00 - Fax 01 42 73 15 24 Internet: www.petitfute.com SAS au capital de 1 000 000 E - RC PARIS B 309 769 966 Cover: Façade © FRANCIS THEBLUEROOM Impression: GROUPE CORLET IMPRIMEUR - PRINTED IN FRANCE 14110 Condé-sur-Noireau Completion date: 19/06/2016 ISBN: 9782746998070 DIGITAL VERSION To contact us by email, family name (lowercase) followed by @petitfute.com Send an e-mail to the editor: [email protected] FOR FREE See page 89 CONTENT

„„VISITS  Live Music – Clubs...... 160 Cabarets & Shows...... 162 Guided Tours...... 8 Sites & Monuments...... 11 Museums...... 18 „„SHOPPING  Religious Buildings...... 36 Tableware...... 164 Parks & Gardens...... 39 Jewels – Watches – Glasses...... 166 Decoration...... 170 „„RESTAURANTS  Major Shops – Malls...... 171 French Gastronomy...... 44 Fashion...... 172 Around Paris...... 100 Secondhand Shops...... 175 Val-d’Oise...... 100 Perfume Shops...... 176 Yvelines...... 100 Regional Cuisine...... 104 Gourmet Products...... 177 World Cuisine...... 110 Alcohols...... 177 Coffee & Tea...... 179 „„LODGING  Sweets...... 181 Bookshops...... 184 Reservation Centres – Rentals...... 136 Hotels...... 137 „„BEAUTY AND WELFARE  „„GOING OUT  Beauty And Welfare...... 186 Cafés – Bars & Pubs...... 154 Index...... 187

direct access to the beach visually impaired disability take away bar mental handicap room service laundry motor disability fitness room air conditioning garden or park playroom / tv nightclub games modern sanitary cash machine washing machine / laundry water sports drinking water bicycle rental tennis horse riding grocery store archery smoking area airport shuttle non-smoking fishing waterslide fitness indoor swimming pool fan miniature golf outdoor heated pool toilet drain hard of hearing disability outdoor pool sailing

FIND the Best visits interesting excellent unmissable Unforgettable 3

Champ-de-Mars.

© OSTILL - ISTOCKPHOTO 4

Paris 5

Visits

TheLégende chimera of Eugene Viollet-le-Duc perched at the top of the Notre-Dame cathedral. ©© SYLVAINCOPYRIGHT SONNET Bolbo lbo BolboVisits lbo GUIDED TOURS

„„LES VEDETTES DU PONT-NEUF Located at the heart of Paris, opposite the Ile Saint-Louis, Square du Vert-Galant (1er) Paris Bike Tour offers, besides a bike rental service, three & 01 46 33 98 38 tours organised from its shop : the first one, called « rive www.vedettesdupontneuf.fr droite », initially goes through Marais passing through the [email protected] and the Picasso Museum before joining M° the Palais-Royal via Beaubourg. After going through the o Louvre, you will go along the Seine and make stops at Open all year. Cruises : from March 15th to October 31st, Pont-Neuf, Notre Dame and on the Ile Saint-Louis. The from 10.30am to 10.30pm; from November 1st to March tour called « » will allow you to discover 14th : Monday to Thursday from 10.30am to 10pm; from the beautiful fifth district by taking a route that passes November 1st to March 14th, Friday to Sunday from 10.30am through the Place Saint-Michel, the Saint-Sulpice Church, to 10pm. Free for under 3-year-olds. Adult : E14. Child Luxembourg, La Sorbonne, the Pantheon and the Jardin (from 4 to 12 years old) : E7. Guided tour. Catering facilities des plantes. Finally, choose the new promenade « Paris la nuit » to appreciate the capital from a different angle (snack bar with take-away). on a journey that takes you from the left bank to right The starting point of the one-hour commented cruise bank. Reserve at least 24 hours in advance, by telephone on the Seine aboard these Vedettes is the edge of the or by the Internet. picturesque square located at the foot of the Pont Neuf, at the Western end of the Ile de la Cité. The course will „„LES BATEAUX PARISIENS let you explore the banks of the river between Notre Port de La Bourdonnais (7e) Dame and the Eiffel Tower. Twenty trips are available & 08 25 01 01 01 (0,15 E/minute) in high season. Go for late departures so as to enjoy the www.bateauxparisiens.com illuminated monuments of the city of Paris! Les Vedettes RER Champs de Mars Tour Eiffel are invaded by tourists throughout the year, but this or M° Bir-Hakeim circuit on the water still remains a pleasant moment of Open every day and public holidays. Depending on the period relaxation and discovery! and the starting point : first departure between 10am and 1.30pm, last departure between 18 : 10 and 11pm. Free for „„ PARIS BIKE TOUR under 3-year-olds. Cruise-walks from E13. Cruises lunch 13, Brantôme Street (3e) E E E E & from 26 to 85. Cruises dinner from 47 to 99. 01 42 74 22 14 This is one of the mythical symbols of the City of Light! www.parisbiketour.net Les Bateaux Parisiens offers different packages of cruises [email protected] commented by audio guides, on the Seine from the Eiffel M° Filles du Calvaire Tower (all year round) or Notre-Dame (April to October) Open every day and public holidays from 9.30am to boat trips (adult : from E13)-breakfast cruise (adult : from 6.30pm. Guided tours or visits deprived by bike. Guided E E E E 55 (bistro formula at 33) – dinner cruises (adult : tour Paris Tasting : 79/adult, 69/child. Guided tour from E66 (at 6 pm). The tour, which lasts an hour, forms by bike Paris in the Seine : E32/adult, E27/child. Guided E E a loop whose endpoints are the BNF Mitterand and the tour by bike Paris Eternal : 32/adult, 27/child. Private Cygnes Islands, where the replica of the Liberty Statue visits : price on request. is found. Special cruises are organised for children; check on the website. „„PARIS CALÈCHES Sinorama Pilier Est de la Tour Eiffel (7e) & „„SINORAMA VOYAGES 06 62 20 24 88 – www.pariscaleches.com e RER Tour Eiffel. M° Bir-Hakeim 23-25, rue Berri (8 ) E & 01 81 70 96 20 Wednesday to Sunday from 1pm to 7pm. From 90, for www.sinoramavoyages.fr the tour discovered. Checks are not accepted. [email protected] At the foot of the Eiffel tower, horse-drawn carriages able With Sinorama, customers are well cared for. This to carry up four people await you for an unusual ride in specialist in Asian and high-end stays, with a true Paris. Four courses exist, from 30 minutes to 2 hours. The knowledge of the field, offers its customers the most easiest one will take you around the Champ de Mars, beautiful services on the site. Sinorama organises another to the Champs-Elysées, another one continues stays for small groups that will enjoy a personal to the Place de l’Opera, while the last and the longest go service throughout their trip, based on a 5 star until Notre Dame. Champagne and / or macaroonote can service, combined with attractive prices. be served on board this romantic vehicle. You also have the option of ordering flowers... Payment is made in cash. 9 10 GUIDED TOURS

L’OPEN TOUR „„THE LITTLE TRAIN OF MONTMARTRE 13, rue Auber (9e) Promotrain (18e) & 01 42 66 56 56 & 01 42 62 24 00 www.opentour.com www.promotrain.fr M° Opéra or RER Auber [email protected] Shop open from 9am to 10pm from April to October and Information by telephone every day. Open every day from 9am to 6pm from November to March. A proposed from 10am to 6pm. Until midnight in July and August. service every day from 9.30am to 7pm from April to Train every 30 minutes in summer ; every 45 minutes in October, and 9 : 40 at 6pm from November to March. winter. Adult : E6.50. E4.50 for under 12-year-olds. Different schedule depending on the tours. Frequency : This small moderate pace train will make you discover between 10 minutes and 30 minutes, depending on the Montmartre in a fun way during a 35-minute guided tour and the period. Adult : E32 (1 day), E36 (2 days tour. You will see the Moulin Rouge, the Montmartre consecutive), E40 (3 days). Child (from 4 to 11 years cemetery, the Sacre-Cœur basilica, the Tertre square, the old) : E16 (1 or 2 days). vineyards of Montmartre, the Lapin Agile cabaret, Saint- It is quite simple, these open-top-deck buses of Paris Pierre market etc. The circuit forms a loop. Departure L’Opentour are everywhere in the city! They make you is from the Blanche square (M° Blanche) or from the discover Paris « from above » – comments delivered Tertre square (M ° Abbesses or Anvers, then climb on by an audio-guide (available in 10 languages!). foot or by cable car). Vehicles are accessible with a pass, which is valid for „„VÉLO PARISØØ 1, 2 or 3 consecutive days : the number of ascents e and descents is unlimited. Four courses are offered : 44, rue d’Orsel (18 ) « Bastille – Bercy » (blue circuit : Notre Dame, Quartier & 01 42 64 97 39 Latin, Bastille, Jardin des Plantes, BNF Mitterrand, www.veloparis.com , Marais, Hôtel de Ville), « Montmartre– M° Anvers or Abbesses Grands Boulevards » (yellow circuit : Place de l’Opéra, Various schedule depending on the seasons. Sightseeings : from E19.16. Themed tours : from E21.60. Basic bike Montmartre, République, Grands Boulevards, E ), « – Saint-Germain » (orange rental of ville/VTT : 15/day. Bike rental. circuit : Quartier Latin, Luxembourg, Denfert-Rochereau, Vélo Paris offers several bicycle rides of about three hours Montparnasse, Invalides, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, from Montmartre. Discover all the touristic sites of the Notre-Dame), « Paris grand Tour » (green circuit : Place capital. Some are thematic, some take you to the green de l’Opéra, Palais Royal, Louvre, Notre-Dame, Orsay areas, others take you to the docks for a sport course, Museum, , Champs-Elysées, , while others take you to romantic places etc. Finally, Trocadéro, Eiffel Tower, Invalides, Madeleine). Everything an evening stroll shows you the beauty of Paris with that is needed to visit the city from top to bottom in its attractive night lights. buses with certain comfort! „„CANAUXRAMA „„4 ROUES SOUS 1 PARAPLUIE 13, quai de la Loire (19e) 22, rue Bernard-Dimey (18e) & 01 42 39 15 00 & 0 800 800 631 (appel gratuit depuis un www.canauxrama.com fixe) / 06 67 32 26 68 M° Jaurès www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com Open every day. Every day at 9.45am (Arsenal and the [email protected] Villette) and at 2.30pm (Arsenal) or 2.45pm (the Villette). M° Porte de Saint-Ouen By reservation. Free for under 4-year-olds. Adult : E16. From E20 per person. Online sales. Students and seniors : E16 (except Saturday and Sunday 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie offers rides from fifteen minutes afternoons, and public holidays). Rate 4-12 years : E8.50. to six hours in a 2CV with a driver – for one, two or three Discounts on the website. people. The tours take you around the city according to For about two and a half hours, you will visit the various themes : Champs-Elysées, the sets of « Amelie Saint-Martin canal and its lovely banks, between Poulain », the Monopoly streets, the green spaces... the Villette Basin and the Arsenal Port, or vice Other courses will take you to Versailles, Chantilly... versa. You will go through four double locks, two Departure is from your accommodation if it is located swing bridges, and through underground sections. in the 1st, 2nd, 8th or 9th districts of Paris or, alterna- In fine weather, Canauxrama also offers cruises on the tively at the Opéra . It is even possible to Marne and evening trips along the Seine or the Saint- request for a « bellboy » to help you discover the best Martin Canal. Note that other journeys are organised addresses in town! for groups. FIND the Best visits interesting excellent unmissable Unforgettable

VISITS

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM – KRASKOV VENIAMIN © and (the Mercury the Horses of Marly the Horses

Fountain of the Rivers on . of the Rivers on place Fountain PLACE VENDÔME PLACE „ „ Open all year. Free. Guided tour (to consult the site of the the site consult (to Guided tour Free. Openyear. all the concerning the card print or to of Paris Office Tourist neighborhood on page HTTP: //www.paris.fr/loisirs/ se-promener-a-paris/se-promener-a-paris-copy/parcours- d-architecture-un-autre-regard-sur-le-patrimoine- Shop. parisien/rub_9947). end, two identical buildings in the identical two end, de la east the hotel the west and in the store, furniture royal former Marine, luxuryCrillon In the North and in Champs-Élysées hotel. the leading directly to gardens Tuileries the South the the huge perspective and marking In the centre Louvre. royal, the Palais and Triomphe De the Arc linking skilfully in Méhémet Ali by obelisk offered Egyptian the ancient in the Champollion by the help brought thanks to 1836 (in the pharaoh praised has the hieroglyphics) of translation of the statues The than 3 300 years.Ramses more for II of group for of Coysevox the work was place for Coustou then reputation, Marly). visible in the courtyard of the Louvre originals are the allegory French of received of the square corner Each and Bordeaux and Marseille, Lyon and Rouen, city (Brest who is who! to find Lille and Strasbourg) Nantes, Tuileries ou Opéra M° was the theatre of decapitations of the Revolution and was of the Revolution of decapitations theatre the was antirevolutionary aristocrats, 1 200 heads going close to heads like the crowned from or just suspect, ranging like desperados the to XVI wife, his and Louis of those Designed Ange-Jacques by and Danton. Corday Charlotte it will be the XV, Louis king Gabriel starting 1755 for from the North At cities. of French squares model of the royal -

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er SITES & MONUMENTS SITES PALAIS-ROYAL Place du Palais-Royal – place Colette –

PLACE DE LA CONCORDE 01 47 03 92 16 „ „ L’OBÉLISQUE ET deserve (and given) this name, and for name, this deserveIt given) (and reason! good M° Concorde M° did not always de la Concorde the Place place, Historical At No. 17 of the Beaujolais gallery, you can see Le Grand can see Le you the Beaujolais gallery, 17 of No. At in Paris. oldest restaurants one of the Vefour, garden welcomes peaceful strollers and families, while and families, strollers peaceful welcomes garden the arcades. at found shops shopping in the for go you reign of Louis-Philippe, in 1830 that the gambling dens in 1830 that of Louis-Philippe, reign the Today, this site. from expelled were and prostitutes clubs, shops, cafes, theatres... Courtesans, artists, writers Courtesans, theatres... cafes, shops, clubs, of is one Palais-Royal politicaland actors mix together. theunder was It Revolution. French the of centres the was at this time that the Palais-Royal became one of the of one became Palais-Royal the that time this at was will find gaming You of the capital. public places liveliest of his descendants, Louis-Philippe of Orleans, enriched of Orleans, Louis-Philippe of his descendants, It the garden. constructing buildings around the field by Palais Royal. Queen Anne of Austria and young Louis XIV Louis and young Queen of Austria Anne Royal. Palais by over taken was and then the palace there, stayed once 1780, one In of the monarch. brother Philippe d’Orleans, thanks to Jacques Lemercier the architect. Sold to King Sold to the architect. Lemercier Jacques thanks to modified and it became the more once it was XIII, Louis The come from the same era. At the startthe isdomain the At of era. same the from come The Richelieu transformed Cardinal that hotel a Cardinal, Palais 1986 sparked a violent aesthetic and political controversy. aesthetic and political controversy. a violent 1986 sparked « Spherades » the by have you these columns, Opposite with metal balls. sculptures and fountain two Bury, Pol with black and white stripes, while in the basement is a while in the basement stripes, with black and white facility in this of creation The water. section running with columns » On the lot. of a parking setup instead was height of different will see marble columns surface, you centre of the domain. On the southern part centre of the garden, « Les that where is This the main courtyard. will enter you « Buren nicknamed of Daniel Buren a work Deux plateaux », hall of French Comedy and the theatre of Palais-Royal. A of Palais-Royal. and the theatre Comedy hall of French shopping adorns the by surrounded very garden pleasant Constitutional Council, and the Ministry of Culture and and the Ministry of Culture Council, Constitutional houses the Richelieu building also The Communication. & Disability. Guided tour. Catering facilities. Shop. Activities. Shop. facilities. Catering Guided tour. & Disability. insti has three Royal domain of the Palais national The the of State, the Council Republic : tutions of the French to May 31st from 7am to 10.15pm and from September 1st September 10.15pm and from 7am to 31st from May to label Tourism Free. 9.30pm. to 7am from 30th September to all day. Low season : 8.30pm. to 7.30am Low every from day all day. April 1st 11pm. From 7am to every from day High season : onlm open remain the Palais-Royal of galleries The Open all year. & M° Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre rue de Montpensier – rue du Beaujolais – rue de Valois (1

12 Sites & Monuments © ILONA IGNATOVA – SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ILONA IGNATOVA

Place Vendôme.

Vast urban planning undertaken by Louis XIV and designed finally rebuilt in an identical way – less than two arches by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, Place Vendôme must first of – in the beginning of 1980. Since 2008, many love locks all house prestigious public buildings that will overlook hang along the bridge. Appeared in Eastern , this the square where the equestrian statue of the king stands; custom consists of couples hanging a lock where words of however the project must be abandoned for lack of love or the initials of these couples in love are inscribed! funds. Those with great fortunes then took possession However, Paris City hall has decided to remove it in June of the already built buildings and converted them into 2015. There was so many padlocks that it threatened the sumptuous private mansions. When the Revolution rembarde under it. Glass panels will be installed but in the occurred, the name of the place, which was a symbol of meantime a art street exhibition was set up. the former regime of privileges, was changed into Place des Piques (bloody name recalling a group of women who „„FONTAINE LOUVOIS Square Louvois (2e) butchered and carried the bodies of several assassinated M° Quatre-Septembre or Bourse. royalists), the statue of the monarch was unbolted. Danton The Louvois park faces the Richelieu National Library. This installed the temporary government of the Republic there. lovely romantic green space was built in the nineteenth In 1810, had built the Vendôme Column, like century where it was once an opera. Surrounded by a the Trajan’s Column of Rome, thus paying tribute to his lawn and trees, the fountain dates back from 1844 and great army. The same column will be reversed during was designed by Louis Visconti at the request of Louis- the Commune on the initiative of the painter Courbet Philippe. Its basin is surmounted by two basins between who will pay the toll all his life as he had to finance its which were carved four women representing the rivers reconstruction. He died before seeing the column built Seine, Loire, Garonne and Saône. Under the lower basin, again on the famous place, under the third Republic. four tritons overlapping dolphins appear. Finally, on the Today, this place is the high place of French and interna- edge of the large marble basin, you can notice, 12 sculpted tional jewellery. The windows offer the most beautiful zodiac signs. Characteristics of this fountain : It is made and most precious contemporary creations. Note that of cast iron signed by the foundry Calla. the last (full time) inhabitant of the place was the singer Henri Salvador who spent 46 years at the number 6 before „„ dying in 2008. 6, rue Vivienne 4, rue des Petits-Champs 5, rue de la Banque (2e) Quai du Louvre (1er) www.galerie-vivienne.com M° Louvre Rivoli. [email protected] « Si, par hasard / Sur l’Pont des Arts / Tu croises le vent, M° Bourse le vent fripon / Prudence, prends garde à ton jupon... » Open every day from 8.30am to 8.30pm. Georges Brassens was singing. The Pont des Arts is the Between the Richelieu national library and place des romantic symbol of lovers spree, legion in the capital of Victoires, the Vivienne gallery is one of the most beautiful Love. This pedestrian bridge connects the cour Carrée covered passages of the capital. Opened in 1826, it has du Louvre and the dome of the Académie Française. a mosaic floor and a magnificent glass roof of origin. It Built under the first Empire, it was the first Parisian provides a radiant zenith light in an absolutely charming metal bridge. It was composed of nine arches which covered street. Everything invites you to linger at the caused enough trouble to boatmen. Accidents were so terrace of your tea room after visiting its shops (fabrics, numerous that access to this work was forbidden to the decoration, clothes, jewellery...), of which it is impossible public in 1970. This walkway reserved for pedestrians was to leave empty handed. Sites & Monuments 13

„„ Saint-Martin boulevards and Temple. For several years, 11, boulevard Montmartre a fountain, decorated with lions, is in the centre of the square. It has been displaced – on the current place 158, rue Montmartre – 10, rue Saint-Marc th 38, rue Vivienne (2e) Felix-Eboué in the 12 district – to be replaced in 1880 by www.passagedespanoramas.fr a monument to the glory of the Republic. Important crossroads of the capital located on the edge of the [email protected] rd th th M° Grands Boulevards or Bourse 3 , 10 and 11 districts and several subway lines, la Open every day from 6am to midnight. République, « la Répu » as Parisian say, today is a space Opened in 1800, the pathway of the Panoramas connects of living together. This is why most events start from the Grands boulevards to the Bourse District. It owes this place towards Bastille or the Nation. its name to the two rotundas which today are lost, „„FONTAINE STRAVINSKY but decorated the entrance. They were the stage of Place Igor-Stravinsky (4e) an attraction which offered painted and panoramic M° Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville VISITS views of big cities. The pathway itself crosses a mini The square and its fountain are to the right of the network consisting of four galleries (Variétés, Feydeau, Pompidou Centre, behind the Saint-Merri church. The Montmartre and Saint-Marc). They are all set under wide rectangular square is bordered on one side by a bright glass windows and surrounded by numerous series of brasseries, where it is pleasant sitting on the shops that target collectors. Stamps, autographs, terraces under the shade of trees. Founded in 1983, documents, coins, medals or postcards are sold there. the fountain consists of sculptures by Niki de Saint- Note that you can also find designers’ or art galleries Phalle and Jean Tinguely, two major figures of the New and restaurants. Realism movement in the 1950’s. These two artists, „„LE PASSAGE MOLIÈRE who were married, both had their own style but were 157, rue Saint-Martin complementary, just as their fountain, which looks 82, rue Quincampoix (3e) like an open-air museum. Animated by the water that M° Rambuteau crosses them, their sixteen common works evoke with Set close to the Pompidou Centre, this lovely small and humour the music by Igor Stravinsky. This fountain is discreet passage with charming cobblestone quietly located above the IRCAM laboratories (Institute for joins two busy streets. There are antique shops and art Research and Coordination Acoustic-Music). galleries, as well as a restaurant. By the Saint-Martin „„HÔTEL DE VILLE Street, note the presence of Maison de la Poésie, set in Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville (4e) the former Molière theatre. Opened in the eighteenth www.paris.fr century, it closed then and was successively transformed M° Hôtel de Ville in an armoury, a consignment store, a ballroom, and then shared by business men. Completely renovated, o the room offers poetic shows since 1983. Open all year. Free. Free temporary exhibitions. Guided tour (on registration). Activities. „„PLACE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE Do not rely on the Renaissance appearance of this M° République monumental Hôtel de Ville, which houses the central Renovation work of Place de la République have just services of the Paris city Hall. Its facade is a copy of been completed, transforming this old automobile a previous building of the 16th century which was crossroads into a vast pedestrian area. Work began destroyed during the bloody repression of the Commune in 2010, after dialogue between the authorities, the in 1871. It was built from 1874 and 1882, following the citizens and shop keepers of the place. Only the west plans of Ballu and Deperthes. The first town hall of Paris side of the square open to cars traffic, while the east dates back to the 14th century, when the provost of side has become a vast esplanade with its ponds, its merchants Etienne Marcel established the administration in honour of the Republic and its onlookers of being of the city in a building called Maison aux Piliers. An happy to enjoy this space again, a long time closed to equestrian statue of the provost is actually found in walkers. Perhaps this is the last metamorphosis of this the Seine. The latter, like the town hall that replaced place which changed several times? It was originally the it in the 16th century, overlooked the Place de Grève bastion of the Temple, included in the fortifications built – current place of Hôtel-de-Ville -, which descended by the good King Charles V in the 14th century. On its to the level of the Seine. A port allowed it to load and site, a little square was built at the beginning of the 19th unload quantities of food. For centuries now, it has been century. This area is dedicated to various forms of popular both be a place for people to seek work and a site that shows, some of which were scary, hence its nickname hosted shows, major events, and public executions... On of « Boulevard du Crime » [Boulevard of Crime]- the film the facades of the building, notice the many statues of Les Enfants du paradis [Children of paradise] of Marcel personalities from Paris and other French cities. Inside, Carné gives an idea of the atmosphere that reigned the community hall was inspired by the decorum of the here. Major changes appear under the Second Empire, Hall of Mirrors in the Versailles castle. Several rooms when Baron Haussmann demolished the « Boulevard are beautifully decorated especially with a fresco by du Crime » in order to form a larger square where new Puvis de Chavannes. As for the square, which is now and wide lanes will lead there – the current Avenue pedestrian, it often hosts various and unconventional de la République, Voltaire and Magenta boulevards events such as concerts, the installation of an ice rink, – in addition to several streets and the pre-existent a temporary garden, etc. 14 © OKTAY ORTAKCIOGLU – ISTOCKPHOTO ORTAKCIOGLU © OKTAY

On pont des Arts. © BDLM – ICONOTEC © NIKITIN MIKHAIL – SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Panthéon. The République statue, République square -Paris. © KINGPHOTO – FOTOLIA

A Fountain at place des Vosges – Paris. Sites & Monuments 15

of the restored upper parts of the Pantheon : supplement „„PLACE DES VOSGES E M° Bastille, Chemin Vert or Saint-Paul admission fee 2, duration 45 minutes. Free tour with On this square, closely linked to the history of the kings document of visit in French, English, German, Spanish, of France, the great Tournelles hotel was born, favourite Italian, Russian, Polish, Portuguese and Chinese : 1am. residence of the Valois until Catherine de’ Medici had it Directed by Jacques-Germain Soufflot in 1758, the demolished. The queen couldn’t bare the place any more construction works of the Pantheon, commissioned by as her husband King Henry II died there as a consequence King Louis XV in honour of St. Genevieve, was completed of a wound on his eye during a tournament. The place in 1793, thirteen years after the death of the architect. became a horse market and not suited to people of good The building is 110 meters long and 84 meters wide, it is virtue. Then, the king Henry IV had a royal square built built in the shape of a Greek cross. The décor is also worth in honour of the engagement of Louis XIII and Anne seeing : the academic painters of Puvis de Chavannes, d’Autriche. The polychrome architecture of bricks, stone Gros ou Cabanel were mandated to achieve this work. and slate very typical of the 16th and the beginning of It is from 1885, that the Pantheon became the place VISITS the 17th century recalls the age of this place. of worship we all know today. It is the resting place of The Revolution cannot decide in favour of a republican the great historic French figures! The first important name for this place marked by royalty. It will be the turn personality to enter was . Among the great of Federated place, Parc d’Artillerie place or a place of personalities who rest in the crypt are : Voltaire, Rousseau, Indivisibility before becoming a Vosges place in honour Jean Moulin, Condorcet, Pierre and Marie Curie, Dumas... of the same name department that was the first to pay „„FONTAINE SAINT-MICHEL tax during the Revolution. Place Saint-Michel (6e) Today the statue of Louis XIII stands in the centre of the M° Saint-Michel square. You will recognize the king’s pavilion to the profile Built in 1860 at the time of the major Haussmannian of the good King Henry in a medallion in front, then you can go to the front door of Cardinal Richelieu at n° 21. works, the Fontaine Saint-Michel is the work of Gabriel The Victor-Hugo museum took place in the apartment Davioud. It occupies an entire facade of a building of the famous poet and novelist. Full of the prestige of (26 metres high and 15 metres wide). Its ornamentation its past, the place still hosts famous residents. is made up of a statue by Francisque Duret representing Saint Michel slaying the dragon, of bronzes symbolizing „„PLACE DU MARCHÉ SAINTE-CATHERINE the four cardinal virtues (Fortitude, Temperance, Justice M° Saint-Paul and Prudence) and of two dragons from where flow Visiting without going through this small the water jets. square is a serious mistake! It is accessed via small streets „„ with the same charm. Created on the site of a priory, it is PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG – surrounded by eighteenth-century houses, at the foot of SÉNAT 15, rue de Vaugirard (6e) which restaurants with terraces and a cabaret dedicated & to magic shows (Le Double Fond) are established. This 01 42 34 20 00 / 01 42 34 20 01 / square was once occupied by a covered market until the 01 44 54 19 49 early twentieth century. www.senat.fr [email protected] „„LE PANTHÉON M° Odéon Place du Panthéon (5e) o & 01 44 32 18 00 Because of the application of the safety measures taken in www.paris-pantheon.fr the setting of the Vigipirate plan, the visits organized for M° Cardinal Lemoine. Luxembourg RER. individual Saturday are suspended until further notice. The nlm individual ones wishing to assist to with it must obtain an Because of the climatic risks, the monument is likely to invitation of a senator (list of the senators). Provided with modify its schedule of visits. Last access 45 min before this ticket of invitation and an identity card, they must be closing. From January to March and from October to then presented to the reception of the Senate with 15, rue de December circuits days from 10am to 6pm. From April to Vaugirard to Paris. Free. The groups (maximum manpower September every day from 10am to 6.30pm. Closed on of 30 people) must obtain the sponsorship of a senator January 1st, May 1st and December 25th. Free for under at the latest a month before the date considered. Guided 18-year-olds. Adult : E8.50. Group (20 people) : E6.50. tour. Shop. Shop with 7 rue Aristide Briand. Reduced rate : E6.50. Cartes Paris Museum Pass accepted. In 1612, Queen Marie de Medici was regent of the Free also for the 18-25 years (amenable to the non- kingdom. She acquired a sixteenth-century mansion European EU and regular residents on the territory of the that took the name of the Duke of Luxembourg, one EU), disabled person + guide, petitioning employment, card of its owners – today it is the official residence of the culture, ICOM. No pets allowed. Activities and workshops President of the Senate. She constructed a castle on the adapted for the disabled people. Inaccessible to the people land surrounding the palace, mixing Italian and French in armchair. Guided tour (45 minutes. Provided : each styles according to the plans of the architect Salomon day in afternoon visits general on the Pantheon and its de Brosse. This palace was later owned by the Orleans history. Also conference visit duration 1.30am in French, family and became the seat of the Directory and then the English, Spanish : E15). Shop. From April to October, visit Senate at the end of the French Revolution. 16 Sites & Monuments

Changes were then made to the building by Jean-François the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, the reign of Louis Chalgrin and Alphonse de Gisors. The chamber where XIV, the modern and industrial era whose success was senators hold discussions dates back from the first half celebrated at that time. At the top soar the famous, sets of the nineteenth century, during which the room was of antique inspiration statuaries including the winged transformed several times. Remember that the Senate horse Pegasus and a woman holding a trumpet. The first is the second chamber of the French Parliament, the symbolizes Arts, others Science, Combat and Industry. other being the National Assembly. The Board consists They are golden, like many decors. A masterpiece that of representatives of local authorities elected by their will remain etched in your memory! peers. Finally, the has a large and „„THE EIFFEL TOWER famous garden, and a museum where major exhibitions e are presented. Champ-de-Mars (7 ) & 08 92 70 12 39 – www.toureiffel.paris PONT ALEXANDRE-III M° Bir-Hakeim or Trocadéro. Quai d’Orsay RER Champ de Mars – Tour Eiffel Cours de la Reine (8e) (7e) onl M° Invalides Open all year. Every day from 9am to midnight from mid- o June to beginning of September and from 9.30am to 11pm Open all year. Free. the rest of the year. Easter weekend and spring holidays : opening prolonged until midnight. Free for under 4-year- On one side the Invalides, on the other the Grand and E E ... A breathtaking perspective! This bridge olds. Admission ticket + lift (to 2 the floor) : 11. Admission ticket + lift (top) : E17. Admission ticket + bears the name of the terrible Tsar Alexander III, whose E E son, Nicolas II, the one who was executed by the Soviets staircase (to 2 the floor) : 7. The disabled guests (wheel with his family, laid the first stone during his official visit chairs, disability of motricity…) can reach 1st and 2nd to France in 1896, thus expressing the Franco-Russian floors by lift. For safety reasons, the top of the Eiffel Tower friendship, which would then make up an essential is not accessible for them. Guided tour. Catering facilities. alliance in the course of the First World War. It is at the Shop. Discount granted to the disabled person with her Universal Exhibition of 1900 that it was inaugurated. guide on presentation of a written proof. Composed of a single steel arch, this typical structure of The tower built by Gustave Eiffel for the Universal the Belle Époque has a fussy decoration : in the centre, Exhibition of 1889 - which marks the centenary of the nymphs of the Seine and the Neva (famous river in Saint- Revolution – and whose destruction was scheduled Petersburg), candelabras, four of which are decorated 20 years later, is finally preserved for scientific reasons. with angels gilded with fine gold, garlands of shells The feet of the building coincide with the four cardinal with masks... On each side of the bridge, there are points, they weigh more than 10,000 tons. It was the highest monument in the world until 1931. The tower two monumental pylons of 17 metres. They present rose to over 320 m since 1957, the year when the French and evoke the great moments in the history of France : television’s antenna was hoisted. From the second floor, located 115 m above the ground, it is estimated that we can see clearly up to 55 km to the South, 60 to the North, 65 to the East and 70 to the West. The restaurant Jules Verne, taken over by the group of Alain Ducasse, is a gourmet restaurant open seven days a week. It is very popular. The third floor is a closed space punctuated with viewpoints where you can see a reconstruction © NEIRFY – SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of the style « Grévin museum », showing Gustave Eiffel with Thomas Edison. If you are bold enough to climb the 750 steps leading from the bottom to the second floor, it is cheaper (4.50 E), much more sportive and much easier when you buy your tickets. Among the many attractions of the tower, the shops, its champagne bar at the top and its many restaurant points, including its gourmet restaurant, the Jules Verne. Sublime! „„ARC DE TRIOMPHE Place Charles-de-Gaulle (8e) & 01 55 37 73 77 www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr olM° Étoile Closed on January 1st, May 1st, May 8th (morning), July 14th (morning), November 11th (morning) and December 25th. Because of the climatic risks, the monument is likely to modify its schedule of visits. Schedule provided : from April 1st to September 30th from 10am to 11pm and from October 1st to March 31st from 10am to 10.30pm. Last access Sunset upon Pont Alexandre III. Sites & Monuments 17 © PHOTO.UA – SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VISITS

Arc de Triomphe.

45 minutes before closing. Free for under 18-year-olds (and ries took it over and the crowd took up weapons. This -25 years amenable to the countries to the European medieval building was destroyed as of July 15. Its Union and non-European regular residents on the French outline is still visible through the special paving at the territory and unemployed on presentation of a -6 month entrance of Saint-Antoine street and Beaumarchais old certificate). Adult : E12 (reduced rate : E9). Group boulevard. In 1801, Napoleon decided to focus on this (20 people) : E9. Tourism label & Disability. Free admission part of the city so as to fix up the square around this for the disabled people and their guide on presentation of gigantic elephant fountain which only the foundation a written proof. Guided tour (booking required for groups : was made by Alavoine. To commemorate the days of [email protected]). insurgency in 1830, the Chamber of deputies decided Shop. Free tour or with conference. to raise the column of July in 1833 by Alavoine, to the The Arc de Triomphe is located on a beautiful perspective : honour of citizens who armed themselves and fought in the East you have the Champs-Elysées, the Concorde for civil liberties. It is setup on the base of the old square, the Tuileries Gardens and the Louvre. In the West fountain where the remains of more than five hundred lies the neighbourhood of La Défense and its Grande Arch. victims of the revolutions of 1830 and 1848 rested. To help you identify the important sites of the capital, you At the top you will notice a golden bronze « Génie de have orientation tables on the terrace where you will find la Liberté », which is an artwork from Dumont. As a a small museum that tells the story of the building. The historical place, it is today a crossroads for popular latter was commissioned by Napoleon I with the aim of events. It is here that François Hollande and the Socialists paying homage to the French armies. Started in 1806, celebrated their victory in the last presidential elections its construction was completed 30 years later, during in May 2012. the reign of Louis-Philippe. Designed by the architect Jean-François Chalgrin, the Arc has a height of 50 m „„ and a width of 45 m. It is decorated with high and low M° Anvers or Abbesses then the cable railway reliefs sculpted by about fifty artists. The most famous or Lamarck Caulaincourt work is « La Marseillaise » by François Rude (Champs- The place du Tertre is the old village square Élysées side). On the arch you can still read the names of ontmartre. This area so dear to the tourists and of generals and victories won by the revolutionary and to postcards of Paris from the beginning of xxth imperial armies. Under the monument, in 1921, was century, finds in this place the quintessential of Paris installed the tomb of the Unknown Soldier in memory nostalgic. It’s in this rea that the artists like Picasso of soldiers who died during the First World War. A flame worked and reated real myth specific to Paris : the is revived every day at 6 : 30 pm. city of artists, bistro, the Bohemian life. A little corner of paradise at dawn, before the metro does not pour its „„ hordes of tourists and the place does not spoil ­portraitists. M° Bastille Take the time to have a drink A la Mère Catherine, the Open all year. Free. establishment was founded in 1793 and here is no On the 14th of July, 1789, when there were only seven doubt that many famous people ave frequented these prisoners left in the Bastille fortress, the revolutiona- chairs! 189 n F n n H n FAJITAS ...... 116 HANNA (CHEZ) ...... 113 FAMILIA HOTEL...... 139 HARD ROCK CAFÉ...... 120 FELICITY LEMON...... 98 HERBORISTERIE DU PALAIS-ROYAL...... 179 FERMETTE MARBEUF (LA)...... 61 HERBORISTERIE PIGAULT-AUBLANC...... 180 FESTIN NU (LE)...... 159 HERMÈS...... 174 FICELLE (LA)...... 82 HIBOU (LE) ...... 54 FIESTA GALERIE ...... 170 HIDE (LE) ...... 91 FINE MOUSSE (LA) ...... 158 HOSPITEL...... 138 FIRMIN LE BARBIER...... 58 HOTEL 29 LEPIC...... 152 FLOTTES...... 45 HÔTEL ACROPOLE...... 148 FONDATION CARTIER POUR L’ART CONTEMPORAIN. . . . 30 HÔTEL AMPÈRE...... 152 FONDATION HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON...... 31 HÔTEL ATMOSPHÈRES ...... 139 FONTAINE LOUVOIS...... 12 HÔTEL BASILE ...... 144 FONTAINE SAINT-MICHEL ...... 15 HOTEL BEAUGRENELLE SAINT-CHARLES TOUR EIFFEL. . 149 FONTAINE STRAVINSKY...... 13 HÔTEL BEAUNIER...... 148 FONTAINES DU LUXEMBOURG...... 140 HÔTEL BOILEAU ...... 150 FONZARELLI...... 122 HOTEL CARLADEZ CAMBRONNE...... 150 FORCHETTA (LA)...... 130 HÔTEL CARON DE BEAUMARCHAIS...... 138 FORGE (LA)...... 104 HÔTEL CRAYON ROUGE BY ELEGANCIA...... 137 FOURMI AILEE (LA) ...... 51 HOTEL DE FRANCE INVALIDES...... 141 FRAME...... 132 HÔTEL DE LA PLACE DES VOSGES...... 139 FRANCE LODGE LOCATIONS ...... 136 HOTEL DE LA TULIPE...... 141 HOTEL DE LILLE...... 142 FRANCK ENÉE...... 45 HÔTEL DE VARENNE...... 142 FRANÇOISE (CHEZ)...... 58 HÔTEL DE VILLE...... 13 FRED (CHEZ)...... 87 HOTEL DU COMMERCE...... 139 FUMOIR (LE)...... 46 HOTEL DU LION...... 148 HOTEL DU LYS ...... 140 n G n HÔTEL DU NORD ET DE L’EST...... 146 INDEX HOTEL DU ...... 142 GAGNAGE (LE)...... 82 HOTEL DU VIEUX SAULE ...... 138 GALERIE DES GOBELINS...... 30 HOTEL EIFFEL DE TURENNE...... 142 GALERIE VIVIENNE...... 12 HÔTEL EIFFEL TURENNE...... 142 GALERIE-MUSÉE BACCARAT (La)...... 32 HOTEL HAMEAU DE ...... 150 GALERIES LAFAYETTE...... 171 HÔTEL HOR...... 145 GAMBINO...... 111 HÔTEL LES THÉÂTRES...... 137 GARE AU GORILLE...... 88 HOTEL LONDRES EIFFEL...... 142 GAS BIJOUX...... 166 HÔTEL LUMIÈRES...... 152 GAULOISE (LA) ...... 83 HOTEL MARCEL ...... 145 GAZZETTA (LA)...... 75 HÔTEL MINERVE...... 140 GEORGE...... 123 HOTEL MONTSOURIS ORLEANS...... 148 GEORGES (CHEZ)...... 154 HÔTEL PLAZA ATHÉNÉE...... 155 GIN GO GAE ...... 119 HOTEL PULITZER PARIS...... 144 GINZA...... 130 HÔTEL RAPHAËL...... 150 GLASS (LE)...... 155 HÔTEL RÉCAMIER...... 140 GLAZ’ART...... 161 HOTEL RIVIERA ÉLYSÉES...... 152 GOD SAVE THE FISH...... 120 HÔTEL SAINT-ANDRÉ-DES-ARTS...... 141 GOÛTS ET SAVEURS D’ICI ET D’AILLEURS...... 62 HÔTEL SAINT-JACQUES...... 140 GOYAVIER (LE)...... 125 HÔTEL TERMINUS ORLÉANS...... 148 GRAND COMPTOIR D’ALÉSIA (LE) ...... 108 HÔTEL VICTORIA CHÂTELET ...... 137 GRAND HOTEL DES BALCONS...... 140 HYPNOSE COCKTAIL BAR ...... 155 GRAND HÔTEL DORÉ...... 146 GRAND HOTEL FRANÇAIS...... 145 GRAND PAN (LE)...... 83 n I n GRAND VÉFOUR (LE)...... 46 I GOLOSI ...... 120 GRANDE MOSQUÉE DE PARIS...... 36 IKRA...... 116 GRANDE SYNAGOGUE DE PARIS ...... 38 IMPERIAL CHOISY...... 128 GRANDS D’ESPAGNE (LES) ...... 112 INATTENDU (L’)...... 83 GRIFF’TROC ...... 175 INDIAN HOUSE ...... 130 GUDULE...... 167 INSOLENT (L’)...... 91 GUINNESS TAVERN...... 154 INTERNATIONAL (L’)...... 158 GWADAR...... 111 INVICTUS ...... 54 190

n J n n M - N n JACQUES DUMONT...... 186 MACARONS ET CHOCOLATS PIERRE HERMÉ ...... 181 JADIS ET GOURMANDE...... 182 MADY BOUTIQUE...... 174 JAIPUR PALACE...... 112 MAGUEY...... 75 JARDIN D’ACCLIMATATION ...... 41 MAHARAJAH...... 114 JARDIN DES PÂTES (LE) ...... 51 MAISON ...... 116 JARDIN DES PLANTES...... 39 MAISON DE THÉ (LA)...... 117 JARDIN DES TUILERIES...... 39 MAISON DU CHOCOLAT (LA) ...... 182 ...... 41 MAISON DU WHISKY – LMDW FINE SPIRITS (LA). . . . 178 JARDIN DU PALAIS ROYAL...... 39 MAISON DU WHISKY (LA)...... 178 JEAN VIER...... 170 MAISON FABRE...... 173 JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER...... 173 MAISON LARNICOL...... 182 JIN...... 111 MAISON PÉRET...... 81 JO ...... 54 MAMAN (CHEZ)...... 166 JODHPUR PALACE...... 127 MANDARIN...... 117 JOHANA’S FISH & CHIPS...... 112 MANUFACTURE DE CHOCOLAT ALAIN DUCASSE (LA). . . 183 JOHN WENG...... 123 MARCEL...... 134 JOY...... 165 MARIAGE FRÈRES...... 180 JOY (CHEZ)...... 130 MARLETTE...... 156 JULIEN...... 66 MARLOTTE (LA)...... 55 MARMITES VOLANTES (LES)...... 96 MAROQUINERIE VALÉRY ...... 173 n K n MARQUISE CAFÉ...... 158 MASCOTTE (LA) ...... 62 KAPUNKA...... 112 MASCOTTE (LA) ...... 95 KARL ET ERICK (CHEZ) ...... 87 MATIÈRE À...... 68 KESSARI...... 120 MATSUYAMA...... 132 KHUN AKORN PARIS ...... 125 MEKONG...... 128 KITCHEN GALERIE BIS...... 55 MELIA CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES...... 151 MÈRE CATHERINE (LA)...... 95 n L n MÉSEE NATIONAL GUSTAVE MOREAU ...... 29 MICHEL ROSTANG...... 91 LALIQUE...... 164 MICROSILLON (LE) ...... 76 LAMFÉ (LE)...... 46 MILK – MUM IN HER LITTLE KITCHEN ...... 91 LANCEL ...... 174 MINE D’ARGENT (A LA)...... 164 LAO LANE XANG 2...... 128 MISS KO...... 118 LAPÉROUSE ...... 55 MIYAKO...... 118 LAPEYRONIE...... 179 MOBSTER-DINER ...... 114 LATITUDE ZEN...... 186 MOLIÈRE (LE)...... 55 LE RELAIS DU LOUVRE ...... 137 MONDES BOHÊMES (LES)...... 98 LEBLON ...... 126 MOOSE (THE)...... 155 MOSES DELI...... 126 LECOURBE HOTEL...... 150 MOULIN ROUGE (LE)...... 162 LEGRAND...... 177 MOULIN VERT (AU) ...... 81 LEMONI CAFÉ...... 111 MUSÉE BOURDELLE ...... 31 LIBRAIRIE DES FEMMES...... 184 MUSÉE CARNAVALET...... 19 LIBRAIRIE EYROLLES PRATIQUE...... 184 MUSÉE COGNACQ-JAY ...... 20 LIBRAIRIE ORIENTALE...... 184 MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE DE LA VILLE DE PARIS . . . . . 32 LIDO (LE) ...... 162 MUSÉE D’ORSAY...... 25 LITTLE TRAIN OF MONTMARTRE (THE)...... 10 MUSÉE DE L’ARMÉE...... 24 LO ZIO ...... 123 MUSÉE DE L’ÉROTISME...... 35 LONGCHAMP...... 173 MUSÉE DE L’ORANGERIE (ORANGERY MUSEUM) . . . . . 18 LONGCHAMP (LE)...... 66 MUSÉE DE L’ORDRE DE LA LIBÉRATION...... 24 LOTUS (LE)...... 128 MUSÉE DE LA CHASSE ET DE LA NATURE (MUSEUM OF HUNTING AND NATURE)...... 20 LOU PASCALOU...... 159 MUSÉE DE LA CONTREFAÇON (the)...... 33 LOU TIAP...... 98 MUSÉE DE LA FRANC-MAÇONNERIE...... 28 LOUVRE RIPAILLE...... 46 MUSÉE DE LA MAGIE (LE) – MUSÉE DES AUTOMATES. . . 21 LUCIE (CHEZ) ...... 117 MUSÉE DE LA MODE ET DU TEXTILE (LE)...... 18 LUISA MARIA...... 116 MUSÉE DE LA POUPÉE (DOLL MUSEUM)...... 21 LUNCHA...... 47 MUSÉE DE LA PUBLICITÉ (ADVERTISING MUSEUM) . . . . 18 LUNETTES D’OPTA (LES)...... 168 MUSÉE DE LA VIE ROMANTIQUE ...... 29 LUX HOTEL...... 146 MUSÉE DE MONTMARTRE...... 35