The Official Publication of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. Vol. 24, No. 4 November 1998 - THE LEWIS AND CLARK TRAIL •. HERITAGE FOUNDATION, INC. In this issue- Incorporated 1969 under Missouri General Not-For-Profit Corporation Act IRS Exemption Certificate No. 501 (C)(3)- ldentification No. 51-0187715 Page 4- A Closer Look at the Uniform Coats OFFICERS ACTIVE PA.ST PRESIDENTS of the Lewis and Clark Expedition President Irving W. Anderson Bob Moore David Borlaug Pore/and. Oregon Box 492 Robert K. Doerk. Jr. Washburn, ND 58577 Cheyenne. Vlryoming Page 9- President Elect James R. Fazio 's Cindy Orlando Moscow. Box 604-FC Robert E. Gatten. Jr. "Curious Adventure" Ascoria, OR 97103 Greensboro, North Carolina Dayton Duncan Vice President H. john Montague Barbara Kubik Portland. Oregon 17 12 S. Perry Ct. Clyde G "Sid" Huggins Page 14- Kennewick. WA 99338 Mandeville. Louisiana Bismarck Is Ready to Serve You Secretary Donald F. Nell Ludd Trozpek Bozeman. 4 141 Via Padova James M. Peterson Page 16- Claremont. CA 91 71 I Vermillion. South Dakota "We Encamped By Some Treasurer jerry Garrett William P. Sherman Butifull Springs" IO I 7 4 Sakura Drive Portland. Oregon An Interpretation of Captain William St. Louis, MO 63128 L. Edwin Wang Clark's Campsite on July 7, 1806 Immediate Past President Minneapolis. Minnesota Anna Loge James M. Peterson Wilbur P. Werner Vermillion, SD 57069 Mesa. Arizona Executive Director Stuart E. Knapp Page 28- Sammye Meadows Bozeman. Montana 597 I 5 'This Report Has Vexed Me a Little" DIRECTORS A.T LARGE Reports on An Affair of Honor Jane Henley Robert Weir Beverly Hinds Larry Epstein James j. Holmberg Charlottesville. Vilglnia Scranton. Pennsylvania Sioux City. Iowa Cuc Bank, Montana Robert Shattuck Frank Muhly James Holmberg Dark Rain 'Thom Grass Valley. California Philadelphia. Pennsylvania Louisville. Kentucky Bloomingcon. Indiana Page 33- Jane Schmoyer-Weber News Update Great Falls. Montana

Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. Page 34- P.O. Box 3434 • Great Falls. MT 59403 Book Reviews (406) 454-1234 • 1-888-701-3434 • Fax (406) 771 -9237 • Website: www.lewisandclark.org

MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION Membership in the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. is open to the general public. Information and an application are avail­ able by sending a request to: Membership Co­ ordinator; Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foun­ dation, Inc. ; P.O. Box 3434; Great Falls, MT 59403. We Proceeded On, the quarterly magazine I of the Foundation, is mailed to current members I during the months of February, May, August, i~if~BERSH I P CATEGORIES* Regular $ 30.00 We Proceeded On is the official publication of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation. Inc. Family 40.00 The publication's name is derived from the phrase which appears repeatedly in the collective International 40.00 journals of the famous expedition. Heritage Club 50.00 E.G. CHUINARD. M.D .. FOUNDER ISSN 0275-6706 Regular-3 Yr. 80.00 Martin L. Erickson, Editor Explorer Club 100.00 1203 28th Streec South #82 Jefferson Club 150.00 Great Falls. MT 59405 Discovery Club 500.00 (406) 761 -4706 Expedition Club 1,000.00 [email protected] Leadership Club 5,000.00 EDITORIAL BOARD Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. is a tax exempt Robert C. Carriker. Spokane, WA Edicorial Consultanc: nonprofit corporation: 501(c)(3), IRS identification no. 5 1- Vivian A. Paladin Robert K. Doerk, Jr .. Cheyenne, WY 0187715. Individual membership dues are not tax deductible. Robert R. Hunt, Seattle. WA Helena, MT The portion of premium dues over $30 is tax deductible.

2 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER I 998 ~'l.esident 's /ltessti'}e by David Borlaug Not too m any years ago, if someone would have Of course, all this has come to pass, and rather approached anyone in our Foundation with the sug­ than claim victory and move on, we are all thrilled gestion that someday, there would be a nationally­ that our story is being told by the world's greatest broadcast documentary on the Lewis and Clark story-tellers, with predictable results. Expedition, receiving great public acclaim; that a Now the difficult part comes. How do we, as a number one best-selling book would tell the expedi­ foundation, respond to this remarkable opportu­ tion story; and that suddenly the entire tourism in­ nity? dustry of the United States would be riveted by the We've already responded in a very positive way Lewis and Clark "experience" we would have by forming the National Lewis and Clark Bicenten­ thought, "OK, that's it, we can fold our tents and go nial Council. This entity, while separately chartered, away. Our mission is accomplished." (President's Message continued on page 39)

Will wonders never cease? Your old editor had an posi tively identify the exact spot where the Corps of opportunity to use some of the Ambrose money to Discovery established its lower portage camp. He take a trip to Philadelphia in September and boy! he held a press conference in Great Falls in mid-Sep­ didn't hesitate to do it. I spent four days in that won­ tember to say he has verified the site of the camp. I derful, historic city, most of it in the historic district , will summarize his announcement in this issue and and I do believe it was worth every pell!'1y that was have a more detailed account of the discovery of the spent. I will start telling you about the City of Broth­ cam psite, with pictures in the next issue. erly Love in the February WPO. Ken Karsmizki, our When you turn to the middle of the magazine you dirt digging archeologist, can put away the bottle of · , are holding in your hands you will discover color, ketchup he has been saving to eat his hat. Twelve two pages of beautiful color. From now on in WPO years ago he said he would eat his hat if he couldn't (Editor's Note continued on page 39)

The National Lewis and Clark Bicentennial Council Director Michelle D. Bussard welcomes visitors to inaugurates its first column in thf'S renowned publi­ our headquarters on the mighty Columbia River, the cation of the foundation, We Proceeded On, w ith ex­ final river passage in Lewis and Clark's journey to citing news. the Pacific Ocean. The council's new address is: 11 01 First, the council dedicated its national headquar­ Officers Row, U.S. Grant House, Vancouver, WA ters at Officers Row in Vancouver, Washington this 98661. Or, you can reach us at (306) 735-8343; via sum mer. Overlooking the parade grounds at Ft. the world wide net at www.lewisandclark200.org; Vancouver, the council's offices are located in the or vi?. e-mail at [email protected]. U.S. Grant House. Built in 1849, it was named in Second, the council has set theme, venue and 1879 after General Ulysses S. Grant visited the row dates for its I 999 Fourth Annual National Planning upon co mpletion of his presidential terms. Executive (Bicentennial Council Column continued on page 39)

-...... _..# .... •••• ·.-~... ON THE COVER-A re-created Fort Mandan on the bank of the in North Dakota will be one of the sights we visit at our 1999 annual meeting.

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 3 --

~/fb....AISER LOOK AT . • • The Uniform Coats of the Lewis and Clark Expedition

By Bob Moore 1803 and May 1804. armies were changing world Historian. Jefferson National In a previous article in We military styles. Expansion Memorial Proceeded On (August 1994), I A contributing factor to the discussed all of the cl othing of the difficulty of obtaining information hen Lewis and Clark expedition, from uniforms to hats on military dress of the 1800-1803 assembled their team to moccasins. Since that time I period is the fact that the overall of intrepid explorers at have been involved in a process of size of the United States Army was W Camp DuBois, Illinois researching the exact look of the so tiny. Altogether, there were only in 1803, the individual m en came military coats of the period, for the a little over 3 ,000 soldiers in the from a variety of backgrounds. purposes of recreating them for entire army during this period, and Their temperaments were not all demonstrations and programs. I there were consequently fewer suited to the restrictions of military think that all reenactors or poten­ coats and other pieces of clothing life, as is evidenced by the willfully tial reenactors of the expedition, made. 1 There were no wars or land bad behavior and punishment of especially in light of the upcoming engagements of American forces some of the men (Werner, Hall, bicentennial , should note this during the period to inspire con­ Collins). The purpose of Camp article and the previous article on temporary artists, and portraits of DuBois was not only its function as Lewis and Clark's clothing. The the time inevitably portray officers, an assembly point, but also as a profusion of coonskin caps and m en who had the money and the training ground where discipline buckskin fringed j ackets and leisure time to have their like­ and unit cohesion could be fos­ trousers will hopefully be el imi­ nesses made. As a result, recreat­ tered before setting off for the nated, and replaced with felt hats, ing the look of the regular army unknown. When the explorers military overalls and hunting volunteers who assembled at assembled at Camp DuBois, the frocks. We know that the military Camp DuBois in l 803 is difficult, previously enlisted men of the 1st coats of the expedition were kept especially in regard to the actual and 2nd Regiments of Infantry and w ith the baggage and brought out cut and look of their uniform coats. the Regiment of Artillery wore for formal occasions such as What did the official U.S. Army distinctive uniforms prescribed by parleys with the Indians. military uniform coat look like in 1 803? l United States Army regulations. drills, the burial of Sgt. Floyd, and Bud Clark, a direct descendant of The new recruits, such as the "nine punishments. William Clark and a military I young men from Kentucky" were No original military coats used collector/reenactor, Greg Hudson, issued "drab" colored uniforms by the regular U.S. Army from the the proprietor of Weeping Heart designed by Meriwether Lewis. It period of the Lewis and Clark Trading Company in Kentucky and seems that all the men recruited expedition are known to exist, nor fabricator of historic clothing, and for the expedition had uniform s. am I aware of any accurate repro­ myself, the historian at the Gate­ The uniforms worn by the men at ductions prior to the coat illus­ way Arch in St. Louis, were all Camp DuBois, coupled with mili­ trated here. The period is a transi­ interested in recreating an enlisted tary drill, shared duties, hardships, tional one in military garments, man's coat of this period. The and harsh punishments, instilled a midway between the American challenge was great, but the sense of unit cohesion into the Revolution and the War of 1812 satisfaction came in accurately tough group between December during a period when Napoleon's fabricating a garment no person

4 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER l 998 had seen in nearly 200 years. 1 as Secretary of War, Knox saw to it the War of 1812 when the army began with pure research into the that this came to pass. Illustrations expanded quickly, caused some written record. and paintings of troops from the American units after 1812 to dress First, there were the orders Whiskey Rebellion period clearly in grey cloth rather than blue. This issued by the quartermaster corps show blue uniforms. In forwarding shortage of blue cloth was started in the early I 9th century. most of inspection returns to Gen. by President Thomas Jefferson's which are today collected in the Alexander Hamilton in November embargo of 1807. There is no National Archives in Washington, 179 8, Army inspector Maj. Tho­ evidence that there was a scarcity D.C. There is also an orderly book mas H. Cushing complained that of blue cloth for the small '.3,000 for the Lewis and Clark Expedition the "materials of which [the coat] man U.S. Army in 1803, and every in the collections of the Missouri is made are badly matched both in reason to believe that Lewis and Historical Society. In addition. we color and quality. It is not uncom­ Clark's men were dressed in the also relied upon the look of surviv­ mon to find three or four shades of blue uniform coats faced with red ing state militia coats of the 1 790- blue, and as many grades of cloth described in contemporary docu­ 1812 period, and the illustrations in the same Company."3 The ments.4 of regular army coats from the scarcity of blue cloth, which As mentioned in my previous Whiskey Rebellion, the campaigns became a problem at the time of article. the new style of uniform of Anthony Wayne, and the War of coat authorized in I 804 was not 1812. Although crude, the illustra­ yet available when Lewis and Clark tions published in the 181 1 set out up the Missouri in May of Mathew Carey edition of the that year. The regular enlisted Patrick Gass j ournal accurately men of the expedition, including mirror what we know of the period Serg. john Ordway. Patrick Gass, uniforms from contemporary john Boley, William E. Bratton, written descriptions. This makes j ohn Collins, john Newman, Peter these illustrations an indispensable M. Weiser, Joseph Whitehouse. and source. Richard Windsor of the 1st Infan­ The written record began in try. Corp. Richard Warfington, April 1801, when Secretary of War Hugh Hall, Thomas Proctor Henry Dearborn issued specific Howard, and john Potts of the 2nd orders regarding the appearance of Infantry, John Dame, john army uniforms. Infantry waistcoats Robertson, Ebenezer Tuttle, Isaac were to be m ade "of white wool White, and Alexander Hamilton with nine small buttons." Each Willard of the Regiment of Artil­ man was to have a pair of blue lery, and Robert Frazer, Silas woolen overalls with narrow white Goodrich, and William Werner of stripes along the outer seams for unknown Army units, were using winter wear, and another pair coats from stores stockpiled in made of white wool or linen with" March 1802 and issued in 1803. blue seams for summer. Overalls Collar, cuffs and lapels were of for the artillery were to be the equal w idth, with eight large same. except the seams for both buttons on each lapel. The sleeve blue and white pairs were "to be opened "a little deeper than the yellow in all cases. "2 Cu ff along the outside Seam with The official color for U.S. Army one or two vest buttons & small uniform coats was blue, a tradition button holes Crossways of the left over from the final years of the Cuff." Some of the most important American Revolutionary War. On information about the pre- l 803 January '.30, 1787, Secretary of War coats came from what was written Henry Knox prescribed a blue about their deficiencies in com­ uniform coat w ith red lining and parison to the proposed 1804 yellow trim for the artillery. He also Private, First U.S. Infantry, c. 1803. coats. For instance, Purveyor of yearned for "a characteristically Full equipment. Public Supplies Tench Coxe wrote national uniform." During his years to the Secretary of War on Septem-

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 5 ber 19, 1803 that "... the Old w ith one or two vest buttons & uniform of the Current and past small button holes Crossways of years has neither edging nor the Cuff." Most importantly, the binding, nor button holes, nor uniforms were cheaply made; they turned Skirts, nor sham pockets."7 had " ... neither edging nor binding, An article entitled "The Infantry nor button holes, nor turned Skirts, Enlisted Man's Coat, 1804-1810" nor sham pockets." These coats by Detmar H. Finke and H. Charles cost only 80 cents apiece to make, McBarron provided several clues to (compared to $ 1 .50 apiece for the the appearance of the pre-1 803 1804 U.S. Army coats, and $2.50 coats. Finke notes that "Robert for the Lewis coats) . Philadelphia Brabston, a Philadelphia master tailor Brabston complained of the tailor... wrote Tench Coxe, the fullness of the coats' skirts and new Purveyor of Public Supplies, in their length; the Infantry coat skirt early August 1803 about an im­ hung ten and a half or eleven provement in the artillery and inches below the waist in 1803. infantry coats. Brabston contended The coats were blue in color with that changes could be made which scarlet lapels, cuffs and standing would use much less cloth to collars; the linings were scarlet for produce a more attractive coat. He Artillery and white for Infantry. said that the fullness of the coats' Compared to coats of the Revolu­ skirts, their length, and other tionary era, they had few buttons redundancies made them uncom­ and functional parts, for the fortable on the m arch, wasted turnbacks, lapels, and collars were cloth and gave the soldier a very not movable to keep the soldier heavy appearance." In speaking of warm. In fact, the lapels and a prototype for the new 1804 coat, turnbacks were fakes, sewn down the article goes on to say that "Like to the coat itself. In addition, the the old uniform worn in 1803 and uniform had no pockets, false or earlier it had no buttonholes, white real. In other words, the men of cloth edging instead of binding the Lewis and Clark expedition and white turnbacks which were wore cheaply made uniform coats recommended to be red as the which mirrored the low value the white soon became dirty ... When government placed on the army at backlined with brown linen as that time. heretofore, the coats were too hot Sergeantjohn Ordway, c.july 1804 Several questions about the in summer at all posts, and too hot construction of our reproduction in winter at the southern posts. "8 coat had to be settled in discus­ Further information was gleaned a starting point because it fit the sions over the telephone. One was from still another edition of Mili­ written descriptions of the 1803 whether or not the coats had tary Collector and Historian which coats better than any other pattern "edging or binding." There was featured a specific article about the we had seen. We then had to conflicting information about this clothing of the expedition.9 summarize the information we had subject, which refers to an edge in After taking this information gleaned about the coat from another color sewn along the into account, l sent it to Greg original sources. First we knew that outside of the lapels and collar. In Hudson in Kentucky, who made a the collars, cuffs and lapels of the this case, white edging was men­ pattern for a pre-1 804 coat based 1803 period coats were of equal tioned by Finke and McBarron in on a militia coat of the 1790s in width (3 inches). We knew that their article, but Tench Coxe in the collection of the Chicago eight large buttons were on each 1803 said specifically that there Historical Society. The pattern for lapel and one or two small buttons was no binding or edging on the this coat was printed in an article on each cuff, without [large deco­ pre 1803 coats. We decided to go by H . Charles McBarron in a 1951 rative] buttons or button holes. The with Coxe's original account, edition of Military Collector and sleeve opened "a little deeper than especially since each coat was Historian. 10 We used this pattern as the Cuff along the outside Seam made so cheaply. Did the coats

6 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER I 998 1803 U.S. Army Enlisted Man's Coat of the Style Worn by the Corps of Discovery Commanded by Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Source: Notes from regulations for military coats, March 17, 1801.

Forepart Upper Sleeve (Blue) 0 (Blue)

Facings ( Sewn cs Down

No Button ' Holes

Collar (Red) \

Under Sleeve (Blue)

Infantcy: 3 Yards Blue Wool 1 Yard Red Wool 2 Yards White Wool ns: 2 Yards White Linen 16 Large Artillery: 6 Small No White Wool; substitute 3 Yards Red Wool

NOVEM BER 1998 W E PROCEEDED ON 7 have shoulder straps to hold use at the time, left over from the behaviour or the will and pleasure equipment belts in place? We 18th century. Officers wore gold or of the sd Commanding officers." didn't think so, because there silver epaulettes according to rank, Although Ordway acted as a weren't enough buttons and again but non-commissioned officers defacto sergeant major during the because the coats were so cheaply wore narrow epaulettes made of Camp DuBois period and at other made. Next we had to decide worsted wool. At the end of the times, he was never appointed where to put the four to six small American Revolution, sergeants officially to that position, and I buttons we knew each coat had. wore two white worsted epaulettes, believe would have retained just We put two on each cuff and the one on each shoulder, while one epaulette as a v isual sign that last two on the back at the top of corporals wore one white epaulette he was a coequal of the other the skirts. Greg Hudson said that on the right shoulder only. These sergeants. 12 buttons at the top of the skirts orders stayed in force until January With a great deal of historical were almost a pre-requisite on all 9, 1799, when an order from the research and examination of the original specimens he had War Office provided that sergeant period cl othing, we created the seen from the period. Further, the majors and quartermaster ser­ enlisted man's coat seen in these woodcuts in the Gass Journal of geants would wear two red wor­ illustrations and the enclosed 1811 shows the buttons on the sted epaulettes, a sergeant would pattern. We also created an back of the coats. Finally, did the wear one red worsted epaulette on officer's coat for W illiam Clark coat have turnbacks at all, fake or the right shoulder, a corporal using the same painstaking re­ real? We knew from the primary would wear one red worsted search. What struck us when the sources that there were no real epaulette on the left shoulder, and enlisted m an's coat was finished turnbacks, but fake suggestions of a chief musician would wear two was, despite the fact that the turnbacks were standard on all the white worsted epaulettes. However, original coats were made cheaply, coats we had examined or seen one year later [1800] the colors of they are quite beautiful, and look pictures of from the period. All these epaulettes were changed sharp when they are worn or just these turnbacks amounted to were once again. Those of the chief displayed on a mannequin. In little triangles sewn onto the musicians were changed from other words, these military coats bottom front of the skirt of the white to blue, and those of the could easily have been contribut­ coat on each side. They were white sergeants and corporals were ing factors to the formation of the in the case of the infantry, and red changed from red to yellow. These Corps of Discovery as a cohesive for artillery. In the end, we decided orders stayed in effect until 1816. m ilitary unit during the winter of to include them, once again Thus, the expedition's non-com­ 1803- 1804 at Camp DuBois. because the illustrations in the missioned officers wore yellow - FOOTNOTES- 1811 Gass Journal show them. Our worsted epaulettes, sergeants 1see Francis Paul Prucha, Sword of the decisions on these points were a having one on the right shoulder, Republic: The United States Army on the little arbitrary, and others may take and corporals wearing one on the Frontie1: 1783- 1846. Lincoln: University of exception to them. For instance, left_ II Nebraska Press. 1986, page 60. A law Alan Archambault and Marko I find no evidence in the jour­ passed March 16, 1802 reduced the standing army to two regiments of Zlatich in their article on Lewis and nals for Ordway to wear two infantry, one regiment of artillery, and a Clark visualized the coats with epaulettes in the capacity of corps of engineers. There were an average shoulder straps and without false "sergeant major." The journals and of 76 enlisted men in each company. Each turn backs. orderly book are fairly explicit in infantry regiment had JO companies, or a total of 1 ,520 infantrymen in the entire One further, surprising note stating that "The following persons army; there were five battalions of artillery, about the uniforms involves (Viz ChariesFloyd John Ordway. each composed of four companies, w ith a noncommissioned officers. A and Nathaniel Pryor are this day total of 1 ,520 artillerymen. This sm all system of chevron stripes for the appointed Sergeants with equal force garrisoned the east coast and the western frontier. The two forts from which sleeves had not yet been adopted Powers (unless w hen otherwise volunteers were taken for the Corps of by the United States Army to specially ordered). The authority, Discovery, Massac and Kaskaskia in indicate rank in 1803. What then pay, and emoluments, attached to Illinois. were garrisoned with 78 and 11 7 did Sergeants Floyd, Ordway, Pryor the Said rank of Sergeants in the soldiers, respectively. At the end of 1804, a toral of just 84 7 men guarded the entire and Gass, and Corporal Military Service of the United Mississippi River-Louisiana Territory Worfington, wear on their uni­ States, and to hold the Said ap­ region, from St. Louis to New Orleans. forms to distinguish their rank? A pointments and be respected 2See Henry Dearborn to Whelen, War system of epaulettes was still in Accordingly, dureing their good (Coats continued on page 35)

8 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 Meriwether~ ~ "Curious Adven~

Dayton Duncan presented this Here in this area, the two best­ tire expedition up to this point for paper at the annual meeting of remembered mom ents occurred Meriwether Lewis. the foundation, Great Falls, downstream and upstream from Only a few days earlier, back Montana, July 2, 1998. this park: June t 3, 1805-when a with the rest of the Corps at the jubilant and enraptured Lewis first junction w ith the unexpected e're gathered here at encountered the Great Falls, the , he had been listening West Bank Park this "sublimely grand spectacle," he to all the reasons why the men be­ m orning to discuss the said, that "formes the grandest activities of Meri wether lieved the Marias was the true Mis­ W sight I ever beheld." And, of souri, why it was the fork that Lewis on June 14, 1805-just one single day for just one single mem­ course, July 4, 1805- a day we will would lead them to the waterfall ber of the Corps of Discovery. soon commemorate together- the described by the Hidatsas and on As single days go, it does not day the expedition's exhausting to the Northwest Passage beyond. rank in history w ith other, more portage was finally complete; the Lewis and Clark had thought memorable, dates on the Lewis 29th birthday of the nation whose otherwise, but given the gravity of and Clark "calendar of events." flag and future the Corps of Dis­ the situation had decided to delay Dates like May 14, 1804 when the covery was carrying toward the for a week while they reconnoi­ expedition first se t off from Camp • continent's farthest shore; the holi­ tered the two forks. "To ascend Dubois on its ep ic journey; or Au­ day they celebrated well into the [the wrong] stream," Lewis had gust 12, 1805 when Lewis reached night by draining the last of their confided to his journal, "would not the summit of Lemhi Pass and saw whiskey. (Le(s all hope that we've only loose us the whole of this sea­ the great dream of a Northwest learr:~<:l ~ t least' something from son, but would probably so dis­ Passage vanish before him in the history and won't run out of it on hearten the party that it might jumbled peaks of endless moun­ Saturday!) defeat the expedition altogether." tains stretching westward. But our topic today is June 14, The reconnoitering had solved We all remember November 7, 1805-the day after Lewis first nothing. Lewis and Clark still 1805, fo r William Clark's famous made his discovery of the Great wanted to take the southern fork; journal entry, "Ocian in view! O! Falls. Though perhaps not as his­ the men, following the lead of their the joy" -remember it not only for torically significant as the day pre­ best boatman, Pierre Cruzatte, still his inventive spelling of ocean and ceding it, June 14, too, would have wanted to take the northern one, his uncharacteristic use of doub~e its share of discoveries. It too though they admitted the choice exclamation points to punctuate would have its moments of excite­ was up to the captains. The cap­ the almost unspeakable em otions ment and high drama. tains had pointed up the southern of the moment, but also because, And yet I think we should refer fork, w ith Lewis and a small scout­ as they all soon discovered, the to it the way Lewis did- not once, ing party pushing ahead of the oth­ ocean really wasn't in view. but twice in his recounting of June ers. And no one fo rgets September 14. Call it the day of Meriwether Think, therefore, of what it 23, 1806, the day the startled resi­ Lewis's "Curious Adventur.e." meant to Lewis when he had fi­ dents of St. Louis looked up to see He awoke that morning before nally come upon the Great Falls on the expedition's white pirogue and dawn-which would have been the 13th of June. dugout canoes swing into view and around 4:30-with the newly dis­ It meant they were on the cor­ then heard a volley of three rounds covered falls thundering next to his rect fork of the Missouri. It meant from the grizzled explorers whom campsite. The steady roar of those they would not have to retrace everyone assumed had long since falls must have been music to his their steps, go back co the Marias, been swallowed up by the vas tness ears, because this was, without and head up that river- with all of the West. doubt, the best morning of the en- the maddening, additional delays

NOVEMBER I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON 9 associated with such a "retrograde beautiful rainbow he so vividly de­ march," as Lewis would have scribed? Did he have a second grudgingly called it. helping of the cutthroat trout On a more personal level, it Goodrich had caught the previous meant something more. It meant evening? Was he simply relaxing, that Lewis and Clark, not the men, basking in the serene knowledge had been right. that during the great test of leader­ Think for a second about the ship and geographical deduction consequences if it had been the which had confronted them at the other way around; think about it Marias, he and Clark had passed for a second, because you know it with flying colors-a fact that the must have been running through others would learn as soon as Field Lewis's mind for days on end. reached them, but something he As I already said, if the captains could momentarily savor by him­ had been wrong, there would have self? been more delays-and more dis­ We don't know what he did. But couragem ent-at a crucial time we do know it wasn't until nearly 6 when the expedition desperately hours after sunrise- around 1O needed the reassurance that out a.m.- that Lewis decided to take a here, out in the unmapped and in­ Dayton Duncan at West Bank Park solitary stroll upriver. credible, yawning distances of the He anticipated going only a few West, they could rely on their lead­ and his sense of absolute elation at miles and returning before dinner. ers to at least head them in the being the first American citizen to The Hidatsas, after all, had men­ right direction. behold them, mixed in with his ec­ tioned only one waterfall, and So an even more critical conse­ stasy was the knowledge that he Lewis assumed a short hike would quence would have been an un­ would not lose face with his men­ take him past the rapids above the mistakable undermining of the and that made the beauty of the falls and allow him to begin plan­ captains' authority. Every decision, falls that much more beautiful. ning the short portage still firmly every order from that moment on He had been sick for days, un­ in his mind. If he thought other­ would have been subjected to in­ able to keep anything down, but wise, he wouldn't have waited until evitable second-guessing, murmur­ his dinner that night, of buffalo 10 a.m . to set off. ing and back-biting. (If you want to hump and tongue and marrow­ He brought along his rifle and know how well a group full of sec­ bone, parched meal, salt and pep­ his espontoon. The weather was ond-guessers, murmurers and per, and the first cutthroat trout clear, wind from the southwest, backbiters crosses the continent, ever described for science, was and warm enough- headed toward study the journals of the Donner heartily consumed, and it only the mid-70s-for him to decide to Party.) added to the sense of excited bliss wear his yellow flannel shirt with­ Consider this a few seconds that had overtaken him. out his leather overshirt. more from Lewis's point of view. When Lewis woke up on the Walking along the rough ground No one enjoys being proven 14th he was still under its spell. on the river's north side, he saw wrong-losing face-in front of At the crack of dawn he sent Jo­ continuous rapids and a few small other people. Officers particularly seph Field downriver to give Clark cascades for a distance of roughly want to avoid it in front of their and the rest of the expedition the five miles. subordinates (even more than par­ encouraging news about the falls. That's when he received his first ents in front of their own children). Drouillard, Gibson and Goodrich surprise of the day: a I 9-foot wa­ And if we know anything about the were dispatched to bring in the terfall angling across the river. He character of Meriwether Lewis, we m eat from some buffalo they had named it Crooked Falls (a name it know that he was especially sensi­ shot the day before and to prepare still retains) and considered return­ tive about not losing face in front it for drying. ing to camp with this new informa­ of anyone. Meanwhile, Meriwether tion. So on June t 3, when he stood at Lewis ... waited. Was he writing his But a constant, loud noise just the base of the Great Falls and account of the Great Falls while the upstream, around a sharp bend in struggled again and again to de­ early morning sun illuminated the the Missouri, drew him farther scribe their power and their beauty roiling waters and produced the upriver. Surprise number two: Just

10 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 around the bend ... was another wa­ This was what became known as So he decided to climb the large terfall. This one-which we now Colter Falls, now entombed in the hill just north of Black Eagle-the call Rainbow Falls-was 50 feet waters behind . hill where Anaconda would later high, intersected the river at a right It was a cascade, Lewis writes, erect its giant smelter smokestack, angle, and had an edge, Lewis that "in any other neighborhood the most commanding prospect in writes, "as regular and as straight but this ... would probably be ex­ this immediate area-for a better as if formed by art, without a niche tolled for its beauty and magnifi­ view upriver. or a brake in it. " cence." But up against Rainbow And what a view it was. A If Lewis was disappointed or un­ Falls and the Great Falls, he decided "beaitufull and extensive plain" nerved by this revelation of two it was not worth tarrying over. stretched from the river all the way more major obstacles in the Besides, as he pressed forward to the base of snowclad mountains expedition's way, he doesn't ex­ another two and a half miles, by to the south and southwest. In the hibit it in his journal. Instead, he this point Lewis was running short fertile valley at his feet, Lewis saw rhapsodizes about Rainbow Falls in of waterfall adjectives and he prob­ a herd of a thousand buffalo graz­ much the same manner-though ably wanted to save whatever ones ing peacefully and vast flocks of not at the same length- as he had he had left, in case there were any geese feeding along the river's about the Great Falls the day be­ more surprises lurking around the shore. Even more pleasing, for as fore. He even weighs the two on next bend of the Missouri. far as he could see the Missouri the scales of beauty, concluding And there was: Surprise number was now a "smooth, even and un­ that "at length I determined be­ fo ur (or waterfall number five ruffled sheet of water" nearly a tween these two great rivals for when you count the unsurprising mile wide, apparently finished with glory that this (Rainbow Falls) was Great Falls), a cataract of 26 feet, its succession of rapids and water­ pleasingly beautiful!, while the showing a fine mist into the air falls. other (the Great Falls) was sub­ and sending torrents of water And four m iles away, a large limely grand." (Personally, I think around a small island, where an river flowed into the Missouri from that still "bestows the palm" as • eagle had placed her nest in the the distant mountains-another Lewis would have phrased it, on crown of a lone cottonwood­ landmark the Hidatsas had told the the Great Falls-"sublimely grand" Black Eagle Falls. captains about, the river they trumping "pleasingly beautiful" in In Lewis's.estimation, these falls called the Medicine, and which to­ my own mind-but Lewis himself were not!quite up to the incredibly day is called the Sun; further proof diplomatically avoids ranking high standards set by Rainbow and that the decision Lewis and Clark them, leaving the judgment for Great Falls, but they were c'ertainly, had made at the Marias had kept each of us to make.) he writes, "a more noble, interest­ them on track toward the headwa­ Looking upriver from Rainbow, ing object than the celibrated falls ters of the Missouri and the North­ he got surprise number three: yet of [the] Potomac or [Schuykill]" west Passage. another falls at the distance of half rivers back in the East. Take that, Taken in one sweeping pan­ a mile. "Thus invited," he writes, "I Philadelphia and Virginia! orama, it was, Lewis writes, "a rav­ did not once think of returning, If you're following this ranking ishing prospect. " He rested a few but hurried thither to amuse myl system- w ith its "sublimes" and minutes to drink it all in. self with this newly discovered ob­ "pleasingly beautifuls" and "noble" He could have decided to return ject." objects-what it means is this: to his camp now. He had hiked Ponder those words-"amuse with the notable exception of more than 10 miles. It must have myself with this newly discovered Niagara Falls, Lewis is claiming that been m id-afternoon, and he was object." This is the third unex­ he has just discovered the second-, much farther from his campsite pected waterfall he's come across third-, and fourth-most mg.jestic back at the Great Falls than he in what started out as a little walk waterfalls in North America, all in originally planned. With a placid, to peruse a short stretch of rapids; the space of 24 hours. No wonder smooth Missouri stretching to the the plans for a half-day portage are that his journal writings still seem south, his reconnaissance was already in rubble; and Lewis is us­ infused with rapture and awe, even completed, and he had learned a ing terms like "amuse myself"? Ei­ a little cockiness, rather than focus­ lot-much more than he had ini­ ther he's deep in self-denial at this ing on the fact that he's hiked tially bargained for-from his point, or that state of bliss from more than 10 miles by now and he ramble. yesterday's discovery was even still isn't sure whether even more But instead, Lewis determined stronger than we imagined! cascades await him just upstream . to push forward to the mouth of

NOVEMBER I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON I I the Medicine River. Now things get hood: In a 100-yard dash, bet on passed through the plain nearly in even stranger, and his "curious ad­ the grizzly. the direction which the bear had venture" takes some new twists. It was gaining on him fast, so he run to medicine river." Does that After descending to the valley, jumped off the shallow river bank, make sense to anyone here? A he decided to shoot one of the buf­ splashed into waist-deep water, huge grizzly chases you into the falo in the teeming herd, for sup­ and then wheeled around with his river and then, miraculously, per in case he needed to spend the espomoon, pointing it as fi rmly as spares you a fight to the death by night before returning to the other he could while still holding onto his retreating of its own accord. So men. He selected a nice fat one, unloaded rifle. you not only continue your hike, shot it through the lungs, and was, At the same ti me, the grizzly but continue it along the same he writes, "gazeing attentively on reached the edge of the water, route the grizzly just took? "Curi­ the poor animal discharging blood snarling less than 20 feet from our ous adventure," indeed. in streams from his mouth and beloved captain. Anyway, from here he pro­ nostrils, expecting him to fall every Most of you have read accounts ceeded on to the Medicine River­ instant." of the Corps of Discovery's numer­ a "handsome stream" in Lewis's Lost in this vivid reverie-not far ous encounters with grizzly bears. words, where the grizzly fortu­ from this very spot, according to How one wounded, infuriated bear nately made no second appear­ most estimates-Lewis suddenly chased William Bratton for a quar­ ance. noticed something only 20 paces ter of a mile, even though he had He looked at his watch. It told away. It was a grizzly-the species put a bullet through its lungs. How him it was 6:30, eight and a half of bear the expedition had first en­ Willard was nearly killed by an­ hours since his departure from the countered on April 29th; one of other. And how yet another se­ camp he estimated was t 2 miles those huge, fearless monsters verely wounded grizzly routed a away (but which I would guess is which had been thoroughly intimi­ hunting party of six men, pursued closer to 15 miles downstream). dating the Corps of Discovery ever them across the plains, and Time- finally-to turn back. since then with their ferocity and jumped a 20-foot em bankment Before he once again reached n ear-in vul n e rab iii ty. into the water after them, only to this spot, his gaze fell upon a Who knows where it came from be felled at the last minute by the strange animal-a "tyger cat" he so suddenly or how it had man­ twelfth slug the hunters pumped calls it, brownish yell ow, standing aged to get so close undetected. into it. near its burrow, probably a wolver­ Th is was open plains, according to We ll , as luck would have it, this ine. It made signs that it might Lewis, not a single tree or bush particular grizzly apparently was spring at him, but disappeared into within 300 yards. not closely related to those others. its hole when he shot at it. (This Lewis instantly raised his gun to It turned out to be the only cow­ time he immediately reloaded.) fire-and just as instantly realized ardly grizzly bear the Corps of Dis­ "It now seemed to me that all that he had been watching that covery encountered in Montana. the beasts of the neighbourhood buffalo bleed to death instead of Rather than swiping the espontoon had made a league to dis troy me," reloading his rifle. from Lewis's hands like a match he writes, "or that some fortune Now, 20 paces is not much of a stick and making a brief appetizer was disposed to amuse herself at distance when it's just you and a out of the captain before turning to my expence, for I had not grizzly bear on the open plains. If the dead buffalo for a main course, proceded more than three hundred ever there was a chance for the this grizzly inexplicably turned tail yards from the burrow of the tyger grizzly bears to even the score w ith and ran off. It ran away as fast as it cat, before three bull buffaloe, the Corps of Discovery for all their had pursued Lewis; ran at full which wer feeding with a large fallen comrades, this was it. speed, occasionally looking over its herd about half a mile from me on Lewis began retreating at a brisk shoulder; ran for three m iles until my left, seperated from the herd walk, hoping the bear wouldn't it disappeared into the woods and ran full speed towards me." pursue him. along the Medicine River. On a "curious" day like this, No such luck. "I had no sooner Now, if you think that's "cU1i­ you've probably already figured terned myself, " Lewis writes, "but ous," consider what Meriwether out that running for your life fro m he pitched at me, open mouthed Lewis did next. Did he count his three stampeding buffalo bulls or and full speed." Lewis sprinted for blessings and head in the opposite at least dropping the lead bull with 80 yards, but soon learned what all direction towards his camp? No. a shot from your rifle simply westerners are taught from child- Let him tell us in his own words: "I weren't considered options by

12 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 Meriwether Lewis. No, instead, he Lewis himself seems to have per­ There would be plenty of days writes. "I thought at least to give ceived some magic in the day-a ahead when he would see danger them some amusement and al­ magic he was unsure would last and disappointment for what it was. tered my direction to meet them." much longer. And there would be plenty of other And of course, rather than stomp­ Despite the late hour and the times when he would be unable to ing him to dust on the plains for long distance to camp. he writes, "I greet triumph, and success, and foolishness, the bulls suddenly then continued my rout homewards good fortune without a sense of in­ stopped about 100 yards away and passed the buffaloe which I had adequacy, sorrow, and his own deep then, too, turned around and hast­ killed, but did not think it prudent to fo reboding. ily ran off. remain all night at this place which As we all know, Meriwether Lewis It's at this point-after the really from the succession of curi­ was perfectly capable of seeing unexplainably cowardly grizzly, af­ ous adventures wore the impression even sunny days as situations when ter the disappearing "tyger cat," af­ on my mind of inchantment; at the glass of life was half-empty. But ter the trio of madly charging, sometimes for a moment I thought not this day. Mark June 14, 1805, madly retreating buffalo bulls-that it might be a dream, but the down as a special day on the Corps you have to wonder whether there prick.ley pears which pierced my of Discovery's calendar and in was something about that yellow feet very severely once in a while, Lewis's all-too-abbreviated life. Not flannel shirt of Lewis's that was act­ particularly after it grew dark, con­ because it was a turning point for ing as some sort of super-powerful vinced me that I was really awake." the expedition, or because some­ animal repellent. Late that night-we don't know thing particularly historic occurred. Or perhaps it was Lewis's state of what time-after his 30-mile day on Mark it down because on June 14, mind-that sense of undiluted eu­ foot, he arrived back in camp, 1805, everywhere Meriwether Lewis phoria he had first experienced at where Drouillard, Gibson and turned, everything he saw, every­ the Great Falls the day before, but Goodrich had been worried sick for th ing he did, convinced him that the was still with him when he awoke his safety. Having expected him glass of life was instead half-full ­ that morning; that incredible rush of back hours earlier, Lewis tells us, half-full and brimming over. excitement and wonder that had "they had formed a thousand con­ For him, life that day was a "curi­ all owed him to view four more wa­ jectures, all of which equally ous adventure." terfalls not as extra obstacles to be forboding my death" and were mak­ overcome but as sublime works of ing plans to search for his corpse nature; feeling alive with such in­ the h·ext ~morning. credible intensity that even mo­ But fate had other plans fGr Missouri Lewis and ments of extreme danger can be Meriwether Lewis-a fate that would Clark Commission viewed with detached bemusement. not allow mere grizzly bears, or tyger Perhaps such a state of mind cats, or stampeding buffalo, or a suc­ Appointed somehow magically cloaks a man cession of waterfalls to stand between On July 1, Governor Mel with temporary invulnerability. him and the end of his journey. Carnahan appointed nine persons to serve on the Missouri Lewis and Clark Bicentennial Commission. Dog Lover Gives Foundation $10,000 The co-chairs are Don Gallop of St. Louis and Jonathan Kemper of As a young ch ild, Lorna together a total of more than 50 Kansas Ci ty. Spangenberg was saved from countries. She was a certified judge Others appointed are Dr. Robert drowning by the family pet dog. It for the American Philatelic Society. Archibald, Frank j acobs, Dr. Bar­ is surmised this incident led to her Mrs. Spangenberg, who died bara Woods, and Dr. Ann Roge rs, life-long interest in and love of July 29, 1996, was a member of all of St. Louis, along with Marci dogs. She was an avid educator of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Bennett of St. Joseph, Dr. Gera ld young people about dogs, a shower Foundation. In her will she left Lee of Kansas City, and Cheryl of dogs and a collector of dog $10,000 to the foundation in Thorp of Platte City. stamps. Her stamp collection num­ memory of Seaman, Meriwether The commission also includes bered more than four thousand Lewis's Newfoundland dog who, in representatives from the Missouri stamps including ones issued by many ways, was a major contribu­ State Historical Society, Division of Ajman State, Bequi, Cuba Tuvalyu, tor to the success of the expedi­ Tourism, Department of Conserva­ Fuj eria, Mongolia, New Gu inea, tion. tion, Department of Natural Re­ Oman and Uum Al Qiwain- all sources, and Governor's Office.

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON I 3 Place.> f o Go, Bismarck is Ready to Thin~fo Do! Serve You Bismarck-Mandan's 65,000 resi­ For the history lover, North located directly across from the dents know how to host an event. Dakota is packed full of points of Radisson Inn, which will serve as Bismarck has 2500 sleeping rooms interest. At the same time, the our meeting headquarters. for you to choose from. There are wide open spaces and largely Please reserve your room early over 100 unique restaurants for all untouched landscape will open for the 1999 Annual Meeting, Au­ tastes including Meriwether's, lo­ your heart and take your breath gust 1-4. cated along the Missouri River. away. While visiting Theodore which features a Lewis Clark Meeting Headquarters Roosevelt National Park, for ex­ & themed menu and memorabilia. Radisson Inn ample, you can revel in the history Shopping is also plentiful in Bis­ SOOS . 3rd Street of the legendary Roughriders while marck w ith malls, antique and spe­ Bismarck ND 58504 gazing out over the same rugged cialty shops. The largest mall is 1-800-333-3333 terrain that captured Roosevelt's 701-258-7700 imagination. In his journals, 306 rooms. AC , CAW, indoor pool, Meriwether Lewis observed that sauna, whirlpool, restaurant and the confluence of the Missouri and dedicated to the peoples of the lounge Yellowstone rivers would be an Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara Airport shuttle excellent spot for a trading post. In tribes. Make sure to tell them you are with 1829, the Fort Union Trading Post • The International Peace the National Lewis and Clark Trail was established there. Today, the Garden: A symbol of lasting peace Heritage Foundation; you will re­ fort is alive once again with the along the world's longest unpro­ sights and sounds of the fur trade tected border, between the U.S. ceive a discount as interpreters bring living history and Canada. Other Hotels, close to the to visitors from all over the coun­ • The Scandinavian Heritage Radisson try. Fort Union is located 24 miles Center: Located in Minot, North Expressway Inn southwest of Williston, North Dakota. 200 Bismarck Expressway Dakota. In the same area is Fort • The exact geographical center Bismarck ND 58504 Buford, a military post established of the North American continent: 1-800-456-6388 in 1866 to guard the confluence of Located outside Rugby, North 701-222-2900 the rivers. One of the most famous Dakota. 163 rooms, AC, CATV, HBO figures to visit Fort Buford was the • Icelandic State Park: Located Outdoor pool, continental break­ Sioux Chief Sitting Bull, who 6 miles from Cavalier, home to fast, indoor spa, airport shuttle surrendered his rifle to the U.S. Pioneer Heritage Center. government there after five years • The Roger Maris Museum: Expressway Suites of exile in Canada. Today, the Fort Located in the West Acres Shop­ 180 E Bismarck Expressway Buford site offers a museum ping Mall in Fargo, North Dakota. 1-888-774-5566 housed in an original building. And these are just a few of the 701-222-3311 Other points of interest throughout places to go and things to do in 64 rooms, AC, CATV, HBO, indoor the state of North Dakota include: North Dakota. As you can see, pool an spa, lounge, casino, m icro­ • Dakota Dinosaur Museum: North Dakota's history is as diverse waves and refrigerators, plug-ins, Located in Dickinson, North as it is interesting. Along with airport shuttle and continental historical sites and points of Dakota. breakfast • Assumption Abbey: Located interest, there are hiking, biking 20 miles east of Dickinson in and canoeing opportunities Fairfield Inn South Richardton, North Dakota, a throughout the state. To learn more 135 Ivy Ave majestic Benedictine Cathedral of about all that North Dakota has to Bismarck ND 58504 world-class beauty. offer, please call 1-800-HELLO­ 1-800-228-2800 • The Three Affiliated Tribes North Dakota to receive a free 701-223-9293 Museum: Located in New Town, information/travel packet. We'll see 63 rooms, indoor pool, whirlpool, North Dakota, a fine museum you in the Land of Sakakawea! AC, CATV, continental breakfast

14 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 Schedule for 1999 Meeting Taking Shape The 1999 meeting will begin with registration at I p.m. on Sunday. Au­ gust I . The Vendor's Fair will also begin at this time. Sunday evening will be the opening reception. On Monday the fun begins with a trip to the Kni fe River Indian Villages. The Three Affiliated Tribes will host a day at Knife River that will surely make us feel like we are receiving the same hospitality that Lewis and Clark did over a 150 years ago. On Tuesday, we will proceed on to the North Dakota Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center and Fort Mandan. An evening at Fort Re-enactors at Fort Mandan on a winter day (above). Expedition re-enactors Abraham Lincoln touring the On-A­ readying their canoes for the Missouri River (below). Siant Indian Villages, Custer House and a North Dakota Pitch Fork Fon­ due. Wednesday will be at the hotel w ith sessions focusing on the meet­ ing theme "Land of Sakakawea." This will also be Kid Camp day with exciting activities planned for the kids. The meeting will come to con­ clusion on Wednesday night with the banquet.

!fol"e tJI( Focfcfik In my recent article on the fossi l and dinosaur finds of the Lewis and Clark Expedition (May 1998 We Proceeded On). I neglected to mention one of the largest and most significan t discoveries of the corps on this topic. On September 10, 1804, while making their way Whitehouse) were found on an is­ mains at Big Bone Lick (September­ up the Missouri River in the vicin­ land named Cedar Island. The en­ October 1803), Patrick Gass' "Petri­ ity of present-day Geddes. South tire area is now inundated by Lake fied jawbone of a fish or some Dakota, William Clark found the Francis Case. Gass noted that some other animal," (August 6, 1804), fossil remains of the backbone, of the vertebra were sent.back to and the Pompey's Pillar, Montana teeth and ribs of a plesiosaur, an "Washi ngton City" with the various find by Clark of "the rib of a fish" ocean-dwelling creature of the Me­ specimens from Fort Mandan in the Uuly 25, 1806-w hich probably sozoic Era. This fossil fi nd was as­ spring of 1805 . The footnote in was from a large dinosaur such as a tonishing if only for its Gary Moulton's edition of the jour­ Hadrosaur or a Tyrannosaurus Rex), enormity- the backbone of the nals (volume 3, p. 63 , fn. 2) notes constitute the sum total of fossil creature was 45 feet long. The that "some of the vertebra appar­ finds on the expedition. I apologize bones, thought to be those of a ently are now in the Sm ithsonian for the oversight in not including large fish by Clark and the other Institution." So far as I know, the the ples iosaur find in my original journalists (Gass, Ordway and plesiosaur fossil, the mastodon re- article. -Bob Moore

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 15 .~ - ...... - --·-- ...... , ?; "CWe G!£ncaJnped c56p ~ OffJome c56ut!fall OffJpnngs"

~-- AN INTERPRETATION or t G1\F>T1\ lN W!LLIL\1\1\ CLARK'S GAJV\PSITE ON JULY 7. 1806 ~r-

by Anna Loge 1803 which placed the United landscape formations of the re­ s the bicentennial of States in possession of an im­ gion. Jefferson instructed the the Lewis and Clark mense, rugged frontier largely captains to take notice of "the Expedition in 2004 untracked by white trappers and soil & face of the country, it's draws near, the need explorers. Determined to assess the growth & vegetable productions, economic value and the natural his­ Afor ident ification and inter­ especially those not of the U.S. pretation of the trail and points of tory of his country's large acquisi­ [and] the animals of the country tion, President Thomas Jefferson interest along the route increases. generally, & especially those not organized the expedition and ap­ For nearly twenty years the known in the U.S." Uackson 63) . pealed to his close friend and per­ course traveled by the Corps of Following orders, the explorers sonal secretary, Meriwether Lew is, Discovery has been recognized as described and categorized I 78 to lead the extensive journey across a National Historic Trail, and the new species of plants and 122 the continent to the western sea­ general location of many camp­ new species and subspecies of board. In a letter to Lewis Jefferson animals as they recorded in their sites have been located along its instructed that, "The object of your path. The Lewis and Clark Trail journals the natural history of the mission is to explore the Missouri areas through which they trav­ Heritage Foundation, Inc. has river, & such principal stream of it, made substantial efforts to iden­ eled (Cutright 399-44 7) . as, by it's course and communica­ While staying at Fort Clatsop tify and mark sites along the trail. tion with the waters of the Pacific on the Oregon coast during the However, due, in part, to insuffi­ ocean ... may offer the most direct winter of I 805-1806, the cap­ cient information and a lack of & practicable water communica­ tains made plans for the return local researchers, many of the tion across this continent for the campsites and points of interest purposes of commerce. .. uackson journey which included dividing the party at Travelers Rest near recorded by Lewis and Clark have 61) William Clark, a friend and yet to be acknowledged through former army colleague of Lewis, Missoula, Montana, to further ex­ historical analysis and interpre­ accepted a share in leadership of plore th e water routes flowing tive efforts. Recognizing this the expedition, and in May of from the Continental Divide. On need for further research of the 1804, the captains and forty-three July 3, 1806, after stopping at Lewis and Clark Trail, I recently men set off upstream with three Travelers Rest, Meriwether Lewis investigated a campsite situated boats from the mouth of the Mis­ and nine men traveled east up in Beaverhead County, Montana, souri River north of St. Louis. The the Blackfoot River hoping to dis­ where Captain William Clark and explorers began their mission cover a shorter route to the Mis­ seventeen members of his party guided by scarce and often inaccu­ souri River near its great falls and encamped on the night of July 7, rate information gathered in St. further explore the Marias River, 1806. This campsite is one of Louis. After wintering in 1804- a northern tributary of the Mis­ hundreds of points at which the 1805 at Fort Mandan. sixty miles souri. William Clark, with fifty explorers sought rest on their his­ up river from present-day Bis­ horses, twenty men, toric journey across the North marck, North Dakota'. the Corps of ai:id her baby followed the Bitter­ American continent nearly two Discovery proceeded west into un­ root River south to the mountains hundred years ago. charted land. They became the which they had crossed on their Their journey was conceived first white men to encounter indig­ w estbound journey the previous well before the purchase of Loui­ enous people in the Rocky Moun­ sum mer. The party planned to siana Territory from France in tains and to see the natural uncover the canoes and supplies

16 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER I 998 ,..o ~. \ / / cached at the head of the 167). Having determined a route as: "we encamped near some '\ 1 river where they had acquired across the large valley as directed butifull [NB: Springs] which ~ '~ 0 f horses from the Lemhi by Sacagawea, the party camped fall into Willards Creek." The , @)"9 Indians a year earlier. After next to a creek in the northwestern bracketed i nse~tion i~ the ~·® two days of traveling, part of the Big Hole Va ll ey. passage complicates mterpr- t Clark's party reached the Bi t Clark wrote in his journal for July etation of this critical passage a. terroot Range and camped 7th, "at 1/z past 10 A M I set out recorded by Clark. In his edito­ near the top of its western and proceeded on through an open rial comments Moulton clarifies j' slope. The night of July 5th was rich valley ... after cross ing the river that the initials "NB" in the tunu sually cold, as Clark de- I kept up on the N.E. side, Some­ brackets identi fy an amendment scribed in his journal: "Some times fo lowing an old road which made in the codices by the fi rst frost this morning the last night frequently disapperaed, at the dis­ editor of the journals, Nicholas was so cold that I could not tance of 16 miles we arived at a Biddle. Moulton explains, "Some Sleep" (Moulton, Vol. 8, 166). Boiling Spring" (Moulton, Vol. 8, of Biddle's emendations were The first week of July was uncom­ 169-170 ). The party stopped at made for his own purposes and monly cold, and the party awoke this hot spring late in the afternoon some perhaps were made on the to frost on m ore than one occa­ to eat dinner and rest the horses. advice of Clark, with whom sion as they passed through Clark noted that a piece of meat Biddle occasionally collabo- southwestern Montana. "about the size of my 3 fi ngers rated ... " (Moulton, Vol. 2, 51). On July 6th, in an attempt to Cooked dun in 25 minits" Because the term "springs" was avoid the treacherous trail of the (Moulton, Vol. 8, 170). The hot not inserted by Clark the accu­ previous summer along the spring surfaces from a hillside on racy of the passage may be ques­ Salmon River and over Lost Trail the southeastern slope of the val­ tioned. However, two Pass, Clark decided to follow an ley; from there the party was still observations help settle this ques­ old Indian trail which "assended more than thirty miles from the tion. First, Biddle spent three a ridge with a gentle Slope to the cache of canoes and after eating weeks with Clark when he began dividing mountain which • continued southeast to where they the project of interpreting the Seperates the waters from the made camp for the evening. journals and maintained a corre­ Middle fork of Clarks river from "after takeing dininer and letting spondence with Clark as ques­ those of Wisdom and Lewis's our horses grai~e l hour and a half tions arose and clarification was 2 river ... " (Moulton, Vo l. 8, 166). we pr.oce.ecled on Crossed this east­ needed. Secondly, with Biddle's Setting their course toward the erly brar1 ch and up on the N. Side emendation removed, the pas­ cache of canoes buried at two of this middle fork 9 miles 'crossed sage fl ows as though a term re­ forks of the Jefferson it near the head of an Easterly lated to water was missing. (Beaverhead) River, now covered branch and passed through a gap There is the possibility that Clark by Clark Canyon Reservoir, Clark of a mountain on the Easterly Side intended to describe a creek, but crossed the Continental Divide of which we encamped near some only springs can be found near into the Big Hole drainage at butifull [NB: Springs] which fall into the top of a pass where the trav­ Gibbon's Pass. Descending the Willards Creek, "3 Clark wrote about elers stopped; further downhill

mountains the party followed , 'I, the final hours of traveling on July streams form from the buffalo and Indian trails until 7th (Moulton, Vol. 8, 170). At the confluence of the spring waters. they emerged onto "an extensive end of his entry, Clark tallied that Therefore, it can be assumed open Leave! plain in which the they had covered twenty-five miles with confidence that Biddle's Indian trail Scattered in Such a during the day. Interpretations note in the passage was accurate manner that we Could not pursue about the location of the party's and clarified a missing or ques­ it. the Indian woman wife to campsite on the evening of July 7, tionable word in the passage Shabono informed me that she 1806, must depend upon ·this pas­ composed by Clark. had been in this plain frequently sage, the log of daily mileage, and Questions surrounding the and knew it well that the Creek corresponding maps of the expedi­ campsite also stem from the which we decended was a branch tion. This passage and related pub­ three maps drawn by Captain of Wisdom river and when we lications can be problematic to a Clark that illustrate the route trav­ assended the higher part of the researcher, however. eled by the explorers during the plain we would discover a gap in In Moulton's edition of the jour­ first week of July. As Moulton the mountains in our direction to nals, a segment of Clark's passage points out, the campsite for July the Canoes ... " (Moulton, Vol. 8, pertaining to the campsite appears 7. 1806, is accurately marked

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 17 ~ - . . ~ '..O C>,;' r 1 only on Atlas map 104. present conflicting information. impossible, task, however. \ \ ~ Atlas map 67 identifies the Bald Mountain,_ now Baldy Moun­ Presently, on the eastern ~ f traveler's route, but not the tain, is a large prominent peak vis­ side of Big Hole Pass there , @/~ campsite, and " [o] n Atlas ible from both sides of Big Hole are at least three substantial @)@ map 103 the camp appears Pass which rises to the northeast of natural springs flowing into to be incorrectly labeled Big Hole Pass across the Grasshop­ tributaries of Grasshopper i Cam pd. 8 July."' (Moulton, Vol. per Valley from the gap.4 To camp Creek all within a mile of the ·' 8, 171 n). On the most accurate on the "southern slope of Bald crest of the pass. Which of these map of the three, Clark marked Mountain," as described by three springs most likely pro­ tthe campsite just beyond a range Wheeler, the party would have had vided respite for the weary ex­ of mountains at the source of a to descend Big Hole Pass and travel plorers the night of July 7, 1806? small stream which joins Willards at least ten miles across the valley, Other springs emerge further Creek, supporting his journal de­ significantly exceeding Clark's cal­ down the hill, but it is unlikely scription that they "passed culations. A simple misinterpreta­ according to the daily mileage through a gap of a mountain on tion of Coues's description which recorded by Captain Clark that the Easterly Side of which we en­ Wheeler often used as a reference the party would have continued camped near some butifull [NB: source-in The Trail of Lewis and farther than a mile beyond the Springs] which fall into Willards Clark Wheeler quotes numerous crest of the divide. All three Creek." passages from Coues-accounts for springs at the top of the divide It is now generally accepted his inaccurate location fo r the currently have a continuous flow that the "gap of a mountain" campsite on July 7th. Big Hole of clear water and surface in through which the explorers Pass is in the shadow of or "under" nearly a north-south line from passed on July 7th, is Big Hole Bald mountain but is not on its one another. The north spring Pass in Beaverhead County, Mon­ southern slope as Wheeler as­ flows from the base of Deadhorse tana. The pass divides the Big sumed. Coues's annotation of the Mountain, the northern rise of Hole Valley on the west from the campsite is correct and agrees with the pass's saddle. It has been Grasshopper Valley on the east. recent research. Clark and his crudely developed to form a se­ In 1893, Elliott Coues, a natural­ crew of explorers traveled over the ries of pools primarily used for ist and historian who was the crest of the Big Hole Pass, camping watering livestock. A small stand first to publish an edition of the on the eastern side of the divide of cottonwood trees shades one Biddle/Allen narrative of the jour­ overlooking the Grasshopper Valley. of the pools, and the surrounding nals with annotations, noted that Determining precisely where they terrain is generally rugged and "the ·gap' pointed out by camped on the easterly side of the dry. The middle spring surfaces Sacajawea ... is under Bald moun­ pass is a much more difficult, if not in a deep, narrow gully a few tain, in the range W. and N.W. of Bannock City" (Coues 1l24n), and that the campsite is "in the pass S. W. of Bald mountain and N.W. of Bannock City, on an up­ per course of Willard's or Grass­ hopper Creek, probably now called Divide Creek" (Coues 11 26n). Both passages describe the Big Hole Pass. Ten years later, however, Olin Wheeler, af­ ter retracing the route traveled by the Corps of Discovery, misiden­ tified the location of the camp­ site. According to Wheeler, "On the night of the 7th, having crossed the divide, they camped by some springs on the southern slope of Bald Mountain" (Wheeler 21 ). The southern springs trickle through the willows as Baldy Mountain looms Together these accounts across the valley

18 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 + ~ C>::' / / hundred yards south of the would provide a soft bed for the time. Its depression resem- \' ~ first spring. Scattered travelers, and the willows and bles a dry creek bed filled in ~ 0 J ~age brush bushes are the only nearby trees would protect them with wild grasses and flowers ~ , ' @)~ wooded vegetation from the violent winds that fre­ however, its straight, narrow ~ surrounding the source, quently funnel through the gap, course does not follow the though a thicker stand of pine blowing from the west. A substan­ gradient down the hill, i trees and willows flourish a tial supply of timber could be suggesting that the furrow is ·\ uarter of a mile down the gully. found in close proximity to the not a natural feature. ' Today a wooden fence encircles springs. Several groves of pine During much of their journey tthe source of the spring to keep trees which appear to be between Lewis and Clark both utilized In­ the livestock away from the wa­ two and three hundred years old dian and wild game trails when ter. The adjacent terrain is steep advance within fifty yards of the navigating over land. In his jour­ and dry, offering no protection or origin of the springs. Along with nal entry for July 7th, Clark men­ shelter from sudden storms willow bushes, they would provide tioned a path they followed when which are common in earl y July. an abundant and accessible source traversing the Big Hole Valley The spring to the south is located of shelter and firewood, both at­ early in the day: "after crossing on the gentle rise to the right of tractive since Clark described the the river I kept up on the N E. the travelers' route nestled near evening as a "remarkable Cold side, Sometim es following an old the tree line.5 Thick grasses car­ night" (Moulton, Vol. 8, 172). The road which frequently disap­ pet its banks, and willow bushes m ost convincing aspect of this site, peared ... " (Moulton, Vol. 8, reveal its course to distant ob­ however, is what appears to be an 17 0) Indians visited the Big Hole servers. Several springs meander old trail running over the divide Valley to hunt bu ffalo and beaver together here, and a shallow which passes less than fifty yards and dig various roots in the open slope rises from the springs from the southern springs. Clark meadows. Sacagawea guided to the tree line providing a pleas­ and his party regularly followed Clark's party from the Continen­ ant, practical site to settle for the any roads they came across, prefer­ tal Divide over Big Hole Pass night. Of the three, this southern ring a campsite not far from their through territory she had crossed spring is the most convincing site route. A path can still be seen near as a girl. Sergeant Ordway, one of Clark's encampment on July the crest of Big Hole Pass and con­ of five men Clark sent to search 7th. tinues eastward fo r almost a mile for missing horses on the m orn­ Several features of the setting untU ·. i~ brar ches and fades as the ing of July 7th, also mentioned lead me to this conclusion. The valley levels out.6 Today this long Indian and game trails in the val­ first is the appearance of the rut is not easily discernible and ley and surrounding hills. "[G]ot springs. The lush vegetation shows no sign of use for some on the track of the horses and fol­ lowed it on until! towards evening and found them still going on an Indn. road," he wrote in his entry for the day (Moulton, Vol. 9, 332). Indian roads were numerous and well defined in the moun­ tainous regions of southwestern Montana. In pursuit of the Nez Perce Indians in 1877, 0.0. Howard observed, "The paths made by them in the expeditions after Buffalo, antelope, and other game are even now clear and well defined ... They often make a side hill look as if terraced, and are as graceful in their windings as if made by a skillful engineer" (Hagelin 15) . Trails used by Indi­ ans often followed old game trails Old pine trees and willows surround the southern springs. This view is looking skirting over mountains. south. Historian Paul Cutright notes

NOVEMBER I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON I 9 Photos by Anna Loge

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AUGUST 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 23 + ~ ,.... • At JI" ..c:> c::::::,,. rI that "long before the Indian springs are the site of Clark's ~ arrived, the buffalo and other encampment on July 7, 1806. ~~ f animals had discovered the The possibility that none of , @l..:!J most practical and direct these springs may be the €.A.western Montana. An earthquake or extended dry To remain visible today regular spell can alter the path and dis­ use of the path over Big Hole rupt the flow of water from the Pass must have continued long ground. Further studies might after Clark and his party jour­ identify some dry springs in the neyed along its course. Upon The old path running west to the crest area, but even with this research reaching the canoes on July 8th, of the Big Hole Pass. it would be difficult to determine Clark recalled the course of their the campsite's location. Sec­ journey from the Bitterroot Valley ondly, because the party was and made a worthy prediction for five miles to the east, so residents traveling quickly to the cache of future settlement in the area: began traveling a rough but regular canoes beyond the pass, their "The road which we have trav­ route across the county. One long­ stay at the springs was brief. eled from travel ers rest Creek to time rancher from the Big Hole, They had eaten dinner at the hot this place [is] an excellent road. Jack Hirschy, remembers his father springs earlier in the evening and and with only a few trees being talking about a wagon route over stopped at the springs on Big cut out of the way would be an Big Hole Pass that ran south of Hole Pass near dark, using the excellent waggon road" (Moulton, present-day Highway 278, perhaps site only for a comfortable bed Vol. 8, 172) Indians continued to in the rut that is visible coday. 7 The and a protected night's sleep. It pass through the Big Hole Valley settlers fo llowed scattered paths up is unlikely that excavations in the until the 1870s. White fur trap­ the pass, joined the well-worn route area would reveal any informa­ pers began setting trap lines in at the crest of the hill, and tion pertaining to the campsite. southwestern Montana by the branched off to any track with In interpreting the campsite, 1830s. Mountain man Warren steady traction at the bottom. In however, other components of Angus Ferris trapped and traded 1910, a regular road was carved their travel in the area can be ex­ in the Rocky Mountains during along the north side of the pass; amined, namely the natural his­ this time and while traversing the today Highway 278 follows a simi­ tory surrounding the campsite. Big Hole Valley "followed the In­ lar route. 8 In a statement appli­ As instructed by President dian trail across this hole to Wis­ cable to Highway 278, Cutright Jefferson, Lewis and Clark re­ dom [Big Hole] River." He also observes that "a ribbon of asphalt corded the flora and fauna of the mentions, "We left Horse Prairie or concrete across the prairie land regions through which they on the last day of the month, and of Colorado, Wyoming, or Montana passed. Clark described a wide crossing the mountain to the today often overlies the route once range of plants and animals in northwestward, descended into traveled by hordes of lumbering the areas around the July 7th the Big Hole" (Ferris 11 7). The buffalo and wide-ranging compa­ campground. Other histories mountain Ferris crossed to de­ nies of moccasined Crow, Chey­ also illustrate the fertility of the scend into the Big Hole Valley is enne, or Blackfeet" (Cutright 143). Big Hole and Grasshopper Val­ likely Big Hole Pass, northwest of The trail over the top of Big Hole leys. Even today in the summer the Horse Prairie Valley near Pass hasn't been used for almost a months the slopes of Big Hole where Lewis and Clark buried century, but the history of travel Pass are seas of wildflowers and their canoes. along it suggests its importance grasses, and the timber and sage­ Following the earlier footsteps even when Captain Clark trekked brush-covered hillsides harbor an of the trappers, homesteaders be­ there nearly two hundred years abundance of wild game. gan settling in the Big Hole Valley ago. The location of the long rut While ascending the in the 188 0s. The closest com­ near the southern most springs m ountains to the Big Hole Valley mercial center was Dillon, forty- supports the notion that these on July 5th, Clark reported that

24 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 .~ .. . / ·; c:: ·, \ 1 i "Shannon and Crusat killed ers became too shallow to navigate, account for the sparse popu- '\ \ ~ each a deer this morning and buffalo had not been seen for lation when Lewis and Clark ~ i j. Shields killed a femail Ibex many weeks. Nonetheless, Clark journeyed through the region. 'i @)! ~ or big horn on the side of frequently noticed signs of the ani­ Other wild animals ob- ®'9 t the mountain" (Moulton, mal while returning across the Con­ served by Captain Clark and t t- Vol. 8, 165). The animal, tinental Divide. "I observed the Sergeant Ordway during their @-1 probably a mule deer. had been appearance of old buffalow roads brief journey through the Big a common sight east of the and some heads on this part of the Hole and Grasshopper Valleys in-J rRocky Mountains, providing the mountain proving that formerly eluded ground squirrels, rabbits party with a regular food source Buffs. roved here," he wrote when or hares. and beaver. The slow for much of their journey. descending into the Big Hole Valley shallow streams of the Big Hole Driving along any Montana (Moulton, Vol. 8, 166). The discov­ Valley were ideal for beavers to highway today or hiking the ery of buffalo jumps in high moun­ build dams and mounded homes mountains. one is apt to see a tain valleys today also indicates of willows twigs and mud in the mule deer grazing in a meadow that buffalo once grazed in the al­ cool water. Clark discovered or pasture nearby. The other pine meadows of southwestern "emence [immense] beaver sign" animal mentioned in Clark's Montana. Regarding the absence and Ordway "saw many beaver passage, the ibex or bighorned of buffalo in the region during dams &c" as he crossed the val­ sheep, prefers the habitat of Lewis and Clark's journey Gary ley. While encamped on Big Hole steep dry rocky slopes. Captain Moulton explains: "The mountain Pass on July 7th, Clark recalled Clark was the first to describe Indians, since acquiring the horse the outstanding attributes of the this animal on the voyage up the and thus increasing their hunting Big Hole Valley through which the Missouri the previous year: "this efficiency, had greatly reduced th e party had just passed: "This ex­ animal is a species peculiar to numbers of this animal by Lewis tensive vally Surround with this upper part of the Missouri .. . it and Clark's time" (Moulton Vol. 8, [mountains] covered with snow is was Somewhat larger than the 168n). Also, in the nineteenth cen­ extreemly fertile covered [with] Mail of the Common Deer; The tury the buffalos' migratory path esculent plants &c and the body reacher thicker deeper and fluctuated from year to year. Creeks which pass through it con­ not So long in proportion to its Though Clark observed no buffalo tains emence numbers of beaver hight as the common Deer; the in the region in 1806, trapper War­ &c" (Moulton, Vol. 8, 171 ). head and horns of the mail are ren. A.ngus Ferhs "found buffalo nu­ j ust as remarkable to Clark as remarkably large Compared with merous the whole distance from the beaver of the valley were the the other parts of the animal" Dripp's camp (a fellow trapper) to wildflowers and grasses. As he (Moulton, Vol.4, 196). The the Big Hole," while traveling traveled through the Big Hole Val­ bighorn sheep has thick conical through the area in the 1830s ley Clark saw a wide variety of horns that spiral behind its head; (Ferris 301 ). wildflowers covering the valley "The Horns are large at their On July 8th, lagging behind the fl oor. lndians dug the roots of base, and occupy the Crown of main party, Sergeant Ordway "saw many flowers in the valley. Clark the head almost entirely, they are elk & deer and goats or antelopes" described this in his journals on compressed, bent backward ~and in the Big Hole Valley (Moulton, Vol. July 6th, "I observed some fresh lunated," Clark observed 9, 332) The elk, a majestic dark­ Indian Signs where they had (Moulton, Vol. 4, 197). brown an imal, grazes on the prairie been gathering quawmash. This Encounters with bighorn sheep and in the timberland of the upper is the great plain where are less common today, but signs Missouri; the smaller antelope, Shoshonees gather quawmash & of this beast can still be found which the captains frequently cowss &c" (Moulton, Vol. 8, 167). high in the mountains near the called a goat, inhabits the same ar­ Quawmash and "cowss" both Continental Divide. eas. lnterestingly, while.passing have ed ible roots and provided a The expedition encountered through the region Lewis and Clark staple for the mountain Indians. tremendous herds of buffalo daily never encountered a moose, even Peterson's Field Guide to Rocky on their voyage up the Missouri, though the gangly game animal is Mountain Wildflowers describes often feasting on these animals especially common to wooded, quawmash, better known as ca­ several times a day. Once they m iry creek bottoms in southwest­ mas, Camassia quamash, as "a reach the mountains, however, ern Montana. Moose are slow ani­ hyacinth-like spike of bright blue the party saw very few of these mals which probably made them flowers. "9 During the peak flow­ animals and by the time the riv- easy targets for Indians. This m ight ering season for camas in June

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 25 (Ci>~ • ~ ""''"" • !:;;~ C>" t / and July entire meadows are meal. Like the camas root, Lewis Photos of Big Hole Pass, Beaver-head \~ County, Montana. ~ painted with its blue flower and Clark suppjemented their diet Hagelin, Christopher. The Nez Perce 0 f f and scented with its sweet with this root and often traded National Historic Trail: Gibbon 's Pass to @J @)\.§) bouquet. In his journals, beads and other goods with Indi­ Skinner Meadows. Beaverhead "' ans for cakes of biscuitroot. National Forest. U.S. Forest Service. . ':e> Clark described the sight of 1993. -t a meadow filled with camas, Other plants growing along Jackson, Donald. Letters of the Lewis ~ "the quawmash is now in Clark's route through southwestern and Clark Expedition with Related Documents. J. 1783-1854. Urbana: University of Illinois \ lume at a short distance it Montana include sagebrush and a Press, I 962. resembles a lake of fine clear wide variety of small bushes com­ Moulton Gary. E. The journals of the Lewis & t mon to the upper Missouri like Clark Expedition. Volume I . Lincoln: Univer­ water, so complete is this sity of Nebraska Press. 1983. discription that on first Sight I bush willows, shrubby cinquefoil, Moulton Gary. E. The journals of the Lewis & could have sworn it was water" and wild rose bushes. Many of the Clark Expedition. Volume 4. Lincoln: Univer­ wildflowers found in the mountains sity of Nebraska Press. I 987. (Devoto 402). Fields of camas Moulton Gary, E. The journals of the Lewis & still flood the pastures of the Big and meadows today most likely Clark Expedition. Volume 8. Li ncoln: Univer­ Hole and Grasshopper Valleys in were also in bloom when Clark and sity of Nebraska Press, 1993. Moult0n Gary, E. The journals of the Lewis & early July. The plant was critical his party traveled through the area. Some of the flowers which bloom Clark Expedition. Volume 9. Lincoln: Univer­ to the expedition as they traveled sity of Nebraska Press. I 995. through the Rocky Mountains. in late-June and early-July include Wheeler, Olin D. The Trail of Lewis and Cla rk 1804-1904. Volume II. New York: G.P. The camas bulb, which re­ shooting stars, American bistort, cinquefoil, sticky geraniums, long­ Pucnam's Sons, 1904. sembles a potato in flavor and an 1 All geographical places are identified by their plumed avons, yellow paintbrush, present name unless otherwise noted. onion in shape, provided an and white mules-ears. 13 Every year 2The middle fork of "Clarks river" is the ample source of food for the Indi­ Bitterroot River up which the party had just a dense and colorful mixture of ans and travelers. Peterson's traveled. "Lewis's river" is now the Salmon these flowers carpet Big Hole Pass. River, a tributary of the Columbia, and the Field Guide to Rocky Mountain The feet of Clark's companions and "Wisdom River" is now the Big Hole River. a Wildflowers identifies its impor­ hooves of their horses trampled the tributary of the Missouri River. tance: "The camas probably ' The branches and forks Clark memioned are tender blossoms on their path streams which run into the Big Hole River played a more significant role in through Beaverhead County, Mon­ from the east. Willard's Creek is now called early western history than any tana. Perhaps some of the men fell Grasshopper Creek. a tributary of the other plant. It formed the chief Beaverhead River. into sleep on July 7, 1806, atop the 4 A view of Baldy Mountain appears in the vegetable diet of the Indians of blanket of cinquefoil, sticky gerani­ background of photograph 2. the northwest, trappers, and 5The north spring appears in photographs 2. ums, and shooting stars while deer and 5. early settlers. Members of the and elk watched their slumber. 6The path is marked with triangles on the Lewis and Clark expedition used Clark's "butifull" springs bubbled aerial photograph of Big Hole Pass and is the camas extensively and at phowgraphed in pictures 7 and 8. down the hillside into Grasshopper 'Jack Hirschy mentioned the wagon route times were entirely dependent Creek, its waters flowing into drain­ during a conversation with my father, Ronald on it as food" (Craighead 21). ages that would lead the explorers Loge. Biscuitroot, the plant the Indi­ 'Highway 278 runs from Dillon. MT, to Wis­ home after completing the most dom. MT. in the Big Hole Valley. It appears at ans called "cows," was also an remarkable and important journey the top (north) of the aerial photograph of the important food source for the In­ in American History. Big Hole Pass. dians. The yellow flowered plant, 'Meadows of camas bloom in the Grasshopper Bibliography Valley in photographs 9 and 10. Lomatium ambiguum, has parsley­ 10Picture 11 depicts a field of biscuitroot and Coues, Elliotr. History of the Expedition under the 12 phot0graph I 2 shows the relative size of the like leaves and a thick bulb. Command of Lewis and Clark. Volume III. New root. A camas root appears on the left edge Captain Lewis first described the York: Francis P. Harper, I 893. of the photograph as well. plant when visiting Indians near Craighead, john j., Frank C. Craighead, Jr. and 11 Photographs 13-18 capture the lushness and Ray j . Davis. A Field Guide to Rocky Mountain color of many of these flowers and bushes. the head of the Columbia River: Wildflowers. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company. "The cows is a knobbed root of 1963. an irregularly rounded form not Cutright, Paul Russell. Lewis and Clark: Pioneer­ ing Naturalists. Lincoln: University of Nebraska unlike the gensan [ginseng] in Press, l 969. Anna Loge won the foundation's form and consistancy" (Cutright Devoto, Bernard. The journals of Lewis and Clark. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, youth award for this essay in 284). Possessing a starchy flavor 1953. 1997. She wrote the essay as a and solid texture, the Indians of­ Ferris, Warren Angus. Life in the Rocky Moun­ term paper at Williams College in ten pounded the root into cakes, tains (1830-1835). Denver: The Old West Publishing Company, Williamstown, Mass., when she ground it into flour to make 1983. was a sophomore. bread, or boiled the bulb for a Forest Service Maps and Aerial

26 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER I 998 OBITUARY children Kira, Katina, Jed and Raina. count. During hospitalization, Harry HARRY HUBBARD Memorials may be made to The had a heart attack and left his body Harry Hubbard, 78, a former National Lewis & Clark Bicentennial two days later, Interestingly, Harry board member of the Lewis and had recently shared with my sister, Clark. Trail Heritage Foundation and Penny, a wish to pass on from a the founding president of the Na­ heart attack instead of facing the tional Lewis & Clark Bicentennial increasing pain from cancer. Council, died peacefully in his sleep W ith his pain control well man­ on July 26, 1998. aged these past many months, it Born in Olympia, Washington, has been a blessing that Harry was he graduated from the University of well enough to carry on w ith many Washington and was a naval officer of his projects. Among them, he in the Pacific Fleet during World planted his small garden of veg­ War 11. The founder of Daedalus etables and flowers and traveled to Press in Seattle, he retired as man­ his grandson's tenth birthday. ager of the business forms depart­ Though received in absentia, he was ment of Unisys. He led an active life greatly moved by the recognition of community service including and good wishes received from The church, scouting, Queen Anne Com­ National Lewis & Clark. Bicentennial munity Council, Seattle 2000 Com­ Council, 1101 Officers Row, Council and the Trail Heritage Foun­ mission and several environmental Vancouver, WA 98661 . or your fa­ dation. organizations. He was a member of vorite conservation organization. Harry was still going non-stop in Occidental Lodge 72, NW Rhodo­ The fo llowing is from Kendall July when his family gathered for dendron Species Foundation and Hubbard, Harry's oldest son. our annual summer get together. the Washington Nature Conser­ As many of you know, Harry has What a great sense of timing he vancy. been in a frail condition for the past had that we were all here to be at He is survived by his w ife Ruth; year from his bone cancer. While his side. sons Kendall (Ginny Green) Hubbard working at the family's land on the If you wish to communicate with of Whidbey Island and Brian (Linda) Olympic Peni11sula, he fell and sus­ his family, the mailing address is: Hubbard of Richmond, California; tained atil injury that required 141 6 11th West, Seattle, WA 9811 9. daughter Penny (Mik.e) Ewing­ stitches 'and hospitalization to con­ Hubbard of Quilicene, WA; grand- trol blood loss from his low platelet COMMEMORATIVE ' -:-1 . . WPO DISPLAY ADS STAMPS TO BE ISSUED Display advertising must pertain to Lewis and Clark and/or North If you are a Lewis and Clark buff ~;-:··~-- -~~-. -':: <,.:,.,<:) ;·:.~t>~~;~+:r::f J American history such as books. art or a stamp collector or better yet, : ~ \.~~~ • i\ .. ~~~ ~)~\"i·<... ' . -ef ....., I~~ ~ ~ *' ,~..,: f! '~ it e or related items for sale, and confer­ both, you will want to have the fol­ non-members; $10.00 minimum. ences, workshops or other meetings. lowing address available to check The address, city, state and zii1 Black and white camera ready on commemorative issues during count as one word. Payment advertising only. the years of the Bicentennial of the must accompany all ads. Rates are: full page-$500; half Lewis and Clark Expedition . Loui­ Deadline for ads is six weeks page-$250; one-third page-$ 167; one siana Purchase stamps will be is­ quarter page-$ 125; one column inch­ before the publication month of sued in 2003. Lewis and Clark $16. 67. the scheduled quarterly issue, Expedition stamps will be issued Deadline fo r ads is six weeks e.g. March 15 for the May issue. during the years 2004-06. For in­ before the publication month of the Please send ads to: Editor. We scheduled quarterly issue, e.g .. formation w rite to: Proceeded On, 1203 28th Street March 15 for the May issue. South, #82, Great Falls, MT Citizens Stamp WPO reserves the right to reject Advisory Committee 59405. any advertising deemed unsuitable. clo Stamp Development Ads w ill be limited to offering Advertising or inquiries should be U.S. Postal Service sales of services or material sent to: Editor, We Proceeded On, 475 CEnfant Plaza S.W. related to the Lewis and Clark 1203 28th Street South #82, Great Expedition. Falls, MT 59405. Telephone: 406- Room 4474 E 761 -4706. Washington, D.C. 20260-2437

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 27 Vexed Me a Citt/i' WILLIAM CLARK REPORTS OF AN AFFAIR OF HONOR

Edited by James J. Holmberg the letters in the November 1992 they do not write1-we are Curator of Manuscripts WPO, and an article Gary Moulton Striving to get along as well as The Filson Club Historical Society and I did in the July 1991 Filson we Can, and as Clear of any readers of WPO Club History Quarterly concerning desputes or Brocks2 as pos­ are quite familiar by the five expedition letters, readers sible, which is a dificuilt mat­ now with the cache got a good sense of the extraordi­ ter I believe I told you a Duell of W illiam Clark let­ nc,try content of these letters. took place in which I acted as ters that em erged from a Quotes from the letters have sub­ Second3 - in this affair [")3 Louisville, Kentucky, attic in 1988. sequently appeared in books by fires[") the man w home I was This group of forty-seven letters Stephen Ambrose and Dayton actng for wounded his was unknown before being discov­ Duncan, and Ken Burns's Lewis advosary every Shot, which ered by descendants of William's and Clark film. was Close Shooting for a brother Jonathan. The majority of As a preview for the edition of young hand- a report got into the letters, forty-two, are written to the letters, it is The Filson Club's Circulation that I had gave Jonathan, an important big and my pleasure to offer Lewis and private Signals which I gave to brother/father-figure to William. Clark enthusiasts a "sneak peek," enable the Gentleman to get Three are to his brother Edmund, so to speak, of a complete letter the first Shot. This report has and two to his nephew, Jonathan's with amplification notes. I will not vexed me a little, and [I] oldest son John Hite Clark . The his­ attempt to state editorial policy Caled [on] the opposit Sides torical importance of the letters is here. I think additions by me will for a Certificate which is in significant. Covering the period be evident to the reader. The letter the paper inclosed, and Shall 1 792-1811 (the year of Jonathan's itself has not been changed. It is brng forward the man whom e death), they chronicle W illiam just as W illiam Clark wrote it al­ ~ ["Jmade["J the report. 4 Clark's life, activities, opinions, and most one hundred and ninety This business originated with emotions. They truly do open up a years ago, gloriously creative spell­ Liet. Cam pbell5 whom has w indow to his heart, revealing the ing and all. Some of the amplifica­ been in the oppinion of man himself, and not simply the tion notes printed here w ill differ maney about this place m uch historical icon of famous explorer. som ewhat from those that w ill ap­ injured. he is now arrested These letters now are part of pear in the book edition in order to and all must Come out. his the collection of The Filson Club identify people that will have been friends in Town I beleve are Historical Society; a gift from the identified previously in the book. I powerfull, those in Camp I am grandchildren of Temple Bodley, a hope you enjoy this sample letter told Confined to his Capt. Louisville attorney and historian, from "Dear Brother": Letters of Wil­ Owens' 6-Such proceedings and great-grandson of Jonathan liam Clark to Jonathan Clark. has not been common. Clark. I have worked on the letters St. Louis 31st Jany. 1811 Campbell is full of fight but in recent years as time permitted, Cant get a fight-he Says he and although progress has been Dear Brother wished you were Convenent frustratingly slow, the project now We have not had the pleaser that he might take your ad­ is nearing its end. Various passages of hereing from you for a long vice7-I have paid $1000 to from the letters have appeared in time, indeed I fear our friends Wards the Bond given Manuel print. In the article that I did on are begining to forget us as Liza, 8 Settld my public ac-

28 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER I 998 counts and balancd them all 4. The duel was between Dr. Louisiana Gazette. 2. 31 January up to the first of January Bernard G. Farrar and James Gra­ 1811) what I owe now is $1501 to ham and occurred in the closing 5. John Campbell was a native Manul-for the Goods I pur­ days of December 1810 on the of Virginia. He was commissioned chased and a Balance to E. & east side of the Mississippi. Gra­ an ensign in the First U.S. Infantry, J.H. Clark9 which I Shall pay ham was an attorney who had June 1808, and rose to the rank of as Soon as I can- I fear they settled in St. Louis from the Pitts­ captain, May 1814. He was honor­ are uneasy about it-Julias10 burgh area in April 1810. Lt. John ably discharged in June 1815. He Eyes have been Sore for Sev­ Campbell took offense at some­ was a second lieutenant at this eral weeks but are better, She thing Graham said about him, and time, apparently stationed at Belle joins me in love to you Sister sent him a challenge by Dr. Farrar. Fontaine. He may be the John Nany and all you[r] familey 11 Graham refused, saying Campbell's Campbell who served as Benjamin about you behavior was such that he did not Howard's brigade major during the deserve an affair of honor. Dr. War of 1812, and was involved in prey write to us as often as Farrar consequently believed his the Parairie du Chien campaign in you can. honor had been insulted by which he reportedly was severely accept my warmest wishes Graham's refusal, and sent him a wounded. Scharf states that he challenge by William Clark. Lt. married Polly Nicholes in St. Louis Yo. Frend & Bro Col. Daniel Bissell of the U.S. First in 1810. If this is correct he would Wm Clark Infantry acted as Graham's second. have entered William's extended 1 . This is an often repeated The standard distance of ten paces family through the Christys, if I am theme in William's letters. Both he (approximately sixty feet) with pis­ correct in surmising that Polly and Julia express dismay and dis­ tols was observed, but the matter Nicholes was Matilda Nicholas appointment when they fail to re­ was deadly serious because mul­ Christy. This is doubtful, however, ceive letters from their family and tiple fires occurred. Three fires because Christy would have been friends to the eastward, and appar­ took place as William reported, twelve in 1810, and family records ently really did fear that they may and Graham was indeed hit with list her marrying for the first time be forgotten. This of course did each one-the side, through both David V. Walker in 1816. Regard­ not happen, especially since Will­ legs, and th~ right hand. Farrar less of his possible Christy connec­ iam maintained a regular corre­ was wounded 'in the second fire in tion, he still was an associate of spondence with friends and family, the · butt~cks. Graham lost so William's. He was not the Capt. and they periodically returned to much blood that William and john Campbell of the Second In­ Kentucky and Virginia for visits. Bissell agreed to stop the proceed­ fantry, from whose company at 2. A brock is defined as a con­ ings until Graham was ready to South West Point, Tennessee, some temptible fellow. If this is what take the field again if Farrar should of the members of the expedition William meant it certainly would request it. It initially was believed were drawn. What he had done fol­ fit given they are trying to stay that Graham would recover, but he lowing the duel to result in being clear of disputes, and he recently died of his wounds. The 2 January jailed is unknown. William implies had been involved in a duel in ,\ 1811 edition of the Louisiana Ga­ that it is due to his role in the duel, which charges of improper con­ zette (formerly the Missouri Ga­ but it would seem that if that was duct had been made against him. zette) mentioned the duel, but the case, others involved also It is not likely that he meant don­ refused to report the particulars of would have been jailed. (Francis B. nybrook, a free-for-all fight. the "barbarous custom, hooted at Heitman, Historical Register and 3. The preceding letter in this by civilized society." The 31 Janu­ Dictionary of the United States series is dated 14 December 1810. ary edition that William refers to Army, 2 vols., (Washington: Gov­ William makes no mention of a carried a statement by Graham de­ ernment Printing Office, 1903), duel in it. Therefore, he either is claring that the entire duel was 1 :278; Meriwether Lewis Clark, mistaken in thinking he had men­ conducted in a fair and honorable Clark Family Genealogy manu­ tioned the duel to Jonathan, or manner, and any charges directed script, The Filson Club Historical there is a gap in the letters. The toward Farrar and Clark to the con­ Society, Louisville, Ky. (hereafter latter certainly is a possibility. I be­ trary were malicious and false. (L. cited as TFC) ; john Thomas Scharf, lieve it very likely that there are Ruth Colter-Frick, Courageous Col­ History of Saint Louis City and missing letters in this series of cor­ ter and Companions, (Washington, County, 2 vols., (Philadelphia: Louis respondence. Mo.:Video Proof, 1997), 472-75; H. Everts & Co., 1883), 1 :31 Sn)

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 29 --

6. Capt. Simon Owens. A na­ fer to Lisa by his first name, yet threatened. He moved to Ken­ tive of Virginia, he was serving in some of the references seem to in­ tucky with Jonathan and his family the First Infantry at the time. He dicate that that is what he is doing. in 1802. Except for a brief resi­ had arrived at Cantonment Belle Perhaps W illiam was confused dence in western Kentucky, he Fontaine (the army cam p north of concerning Lisa's name and mis­ lived in Louisville and on the Clark St. Louis at the mouth of the Mis­ takenly used his Christian name plantation "Mulberry Hill," about souri) in the spring of 1810 with thinking it was his surname or did three miles southeast of Louisville. some 120 soldiers (possibly includ­ so because others did. john Luttig He was a merchant and mill opera­ ing Lt. Campbell). He was dis­ in his 1812 journal refers to Lisa as tor, and served as a trustee and missed from the army in October both Lisa and Mr. Manuel. Lisa did clerk of Louisville. He is credited 181 4. (Heitman, 1: 7 64; Louisiana come east on business, including with preserving Louisville's early Gazette, 24 May 1810) Louisville, buying from merchants records. Li ke brother George 7. A wonderful statement re: Edmund and j ohn H. Clark and Rogers Clark, he never married. Jonathan's apparent wisdom and Dennis Fitzhugh. He owned a John Hite Clark (1785-t 820) was good advice. Campbell either store in Vincennes, Indiana Terri­ the oldest son of Jonathan Clark knew Jonathan or had heard about to ry, previous to settling in St. and thus William and Edmund's his wise counsel through William. Louis, and since he consequently nephew. He was engaged in the His reputation extended from Vir­ lived there a part of each year it is mercantile business in Louisville, ginia to St. Louis, the breadth of quite likely that William knew him and from 1809 until Edmund's the then settled United States! from business trips to that place. death in 18 15 was in partnership 8. Manuel Lisa (1772-1820) was But despite the relationship it with his uncle in the firm of a native of New Orleans and of would be unusual for W illiam to Edmund and j ohn H. Clark. Will­ Spanish descent. He had settled in refer to him simply as Manuel, un­ iam himself was very interested in St. Louis about 1790 and became less it was done due to custom. opening a store in St. Louis, seeing well established in the fur trade. There is a possibility, but I think it a lucrative market after perma­ When the U.S. took possession of unlikely, that the Mr. Manuel men­ nently settling there in 1808. He Louisiana Territory, he transferred tioned could be Philip Manuel of frequently proposed joining with his allegiance to it and continued Lexington or another merchant in Edmund and j ohn in such an en­ as one of the leaders in the fur the area with that surname. (Dic­ terprise, but they declined to do trade. Lisa was one of the earliest tionary of American Biography, so. Although William was traders to fo llow the trail the Corps 11 :291; j ohn. C. Luttig,journal of a thwarted in this attempt, he did of Discovery had blazed up the Fur-Trading Expedition on the Upper operate a store in some capacity, Missouri beyond the Mandan and Missouri, 1812-1813, Stella M. especially re: his services as Indian begin exploiting the rich fur coun­ Drumm, ed., (St. Louis: Missouri agent and as a partner in the St. try of the Rocky Mountains. He, Historical Society, 1920), 116; Rich­ Louis Missouri Fur Company. along w ith William and others, ard E. Oglesby, Manuel Lisa and the (John Frederick Dorman III, "De­ were founders of the St. Louis Mis­ Opening of the Missouri Fur Trade scendants of General Jonathan souri Fur Company, and his and (Norm an: University of Oklahoma Clark, Jefferson County, Kentucky, William's paths crossed often in Press, 1 963), 9-t 3) 1 750-1811," The Filson Club History personal and official business. 9. E. &J. H. Clark was the mer­ Quarterly, vol. 23 (January 1949), From 1807 to his death he m ade cantile firm of Edmund and john 26-27; Francis B. Heitman, Histori­ twelve or thirteen trips up the Mis­ Hite Clark. Edmund (1762-t 815) cal Register of Officers of the Conti­ souri, totaling some 26,000 miles. was one of W illiam's older broth­ nental Army during the War of the He was married three times (hav­ ers. He served as an officer in sev­ Revolution, (Baltim ore: Genealogi­ ing a white wife and an Indian eral Virginia regiments during the cal Publishing Company, 1967, re­ wife simultaneously) and died in American Revolution and, like print), 156; John H. Gwathmey, St. Louis. He is buried in brother Jonathan, was taken pris­ Historical Register of Virginians in Bellefontaine Cemetery. The ques­ oner by the British at Charleston, the Revolution, (Richmond:· The tion of whether Manuel Lisa is also South Carolina, in May 1 780. After Dietz Press, 1938), 153; Jonathan the Mr. Manuel that William refers the war he operated a store and Clark Papers, Draper Manuscripts, to in this and previous letters has mill in Virginia. He returned to the Series L, State Historical Society of not indisputably been settled, but I army for several years in the late Wisconsin, Madison, W isc.; j ohn believe they are one and the same. 1790s as a captain in the 7th US Hite Clark Papers, TFC; Edmund It seems unusual for William to re- Infantry when war with France and j ohn H. Clark Papers, TFC;

30 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 William Clark to Jonathan Clark, rah Hite Clark (1760-1818). Will­ William courted her and they were no date (ca. March 1811), Jonathan iam consistently refers to her as engaged in early 1807. They mar­ Clark Papers-Temple Bodley Collec­ "Sister" or "Sister Clark." Julia tion; Luttig, 11-14; ried in January 1808 and in June sometimes refers to her as her 10. Julia Hancock Clark (1791- 1808 settled in St. Louis. They had "Kentucky mother." Nany is their five children. She was in poor 1 820) was the daughter of George daughter Ann Clark (I 792-1833). health by 1820, and while on a and Margare t Strother Hancock. She was about the same age as visit home to Virginia she died at Born and raised in Fincas tle, Julia and they quickly established a Montgomery Co. es­ Botetourt Co., Va., she was chris­ her parents' liking for each other. William tate "Fotheringay," on 27 June tened Judith, but apparently pre­ specifies various family members ferred Julia and went by that name 1820. She was buried in the fam­ to be remembered to in his letters, ily vault there. (Christy Hawes (although her father called her usually children of Jonathan and Judith). She knew William before Bond, Gateway Families, Alicia Sarah Hite Clark, with Sarah and the expedition, and in May 1805 Crane Williams, ed., (Concord , often Ann Clark being constants. he named a river in present Mon­ Mass.: Christy H. Bond, 1994), (Do rman, 29) tana for her. After the expedition 178, 189-90, 242-43. 11. Sister is Jonathan's wife Sa- Foundation Elects Two New Board Members

At the annual foundation meet­ Beverly Hinds andjim Peterson, ing in Great Falls, the membership immediate past president of the foundation, exchange comments. elected Beverly Hinds and Larry Epstein to the board. Bev is the widow of longtime foundation member and past foun­ dation president Strode Hinds. Bev and Strode, with the help of their children, were the ones who orga­ nized the 1 997 meeting in Sioux City, Iowa. Bev has been a member of the foundation and a realtor since 1974. She is the one who ran around (and is still running around) foundation annual meetings srwak­ ing up on people and taking their pictures as an unpaid photogra­ pher. Like so many foundation board members, Bev has a list of Larry Epstein still looking like an accomplishments and volunteer enthusiastic boy scout at the foundation's annual meeting. service efforts a mile long. She has been everything from a scout Werner since 1 977 and has been of Montana Alumni Association leader to an ambassador for the Glacier County attorney since and remains active in Boy Scouts Sioux City Chamber of Commerce 1993. A navy veteran, he served as having served as a scout master and does programs ranging from clerk of the Montana Supreme for 14 years and as president of Medicines of the Expedition to Court in 1976-77. He is one of the the Boy Scouts council. He cur­ Prostitutes of the Old West (she Boy Scouts who located the Two rently serves on the Western U.S. calls it Shady Ladies of the Old Medicine fight site in the 1960s. Region Board for Boy Scouts and is West). His home life is built around his a member of the Glacier County Larry has practiced law in Cut wife and one cat. He served on the Historical Society. Bank, Montana, with Wilbur board of directors of the University NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 3 I u.p.:o-A-T-E by Martin Erickson

In an informal poll in the Great Falls (MT) Tri­ lows us to move from imagination to reality and bune, the response was 15 to 1 in favor of the rec­ makes the expedition more tangible than it has ever ommendation to put Sacagawea on the face of the been before," he said. "It is the discovery of a lost new dollar coin. One negative responder said, " ... to record that, properly interpreted, will reveal much pick Sacajewea, I think, is a great disservice to the about the expedition that was left undocumented in rest of the women in the United States." the Lewis and Clark journals." Nez Perce invited to commemorate Karsmizki said he will submit and defend a paper Lewis and Clark on his discovery to the Society of Historical Architects next year in Utah. The mayor of Vancouver, Washington, has asked the In a related Tribune article, dated July 12, 1998, the Nez Perce Tribe to support plans for a Lewis and Clark Society Daughters of the American Colonists dedi­ commemoration that will include the Indian point of cated a brass plaque marking the Lower Portage Camp view. They were asked to participate in creating a cul­ as a historic site. The 5,000 pound red granite rock sits tural center in connection with the bicentennial of the on a hill above the river bottomland site. expedition. The center is planned for the Vancouver Darlene Fassler, a direct descendant of expedition Historic Reserve. member Patrick Gass, was there as was Mary Nez Perce Tribal members visited Vancouver in the Urquhart, the regent of the Montana Society Daugh­ spring of 1998 for a ceremony honoring the 33 mem­ ters of the American Colonists, who proposed to the bers of Chief Red Heart's band of Nez Perce who were national group that the site be declared a historic land­ held prisoners at Fort Vancouver in 1877-88. Great Falls (MT) Tribune mark. The land where the camp is located is at the junction of Belt (Portage) Creek and the Missouri River Tribune Expert says Lewis and Clark campsite on the Urquhart ranch. verified near Great Falls The society has designated many historical sites On September 8th, archaeologist Ken Karsmizki an­ across the country, including Jamestown, VA. In order nounced that researchers have scientifically verified to qualify for historic recognition, a site must be "wor­ the first Lewis and Clark campsite. A week later he thy of preserving fo r future generations" based on its held a formal press conference and identified the historical and educational value. 1805 Lower Portage Camp, where he has been search­ "Those of you from the east know how special this ing for clues for 1 2 years, as the first of the 600 expe­ place is," Lucretia Ottaway, national president of the dition campsites to be officially identified. It is a SDAC, said. "It's so much closer to God than we are in pioneering discovery that has excited the nation's sci­ the city." entific community and elated fans of the exped1t1on. Mary Urquhart plans to limit the number of visitors A "growing body of evidence," including two key in order to preserve the site. finds this summer, spurred him to proclaim that he "We want to keep it in its original state - the way it has scientifi cally verified the location. was when Lewis and Clark were here," she said. The systematic research led to finding three camp­ Great Falls (MT) Tribune fires "built in regimented style" in a straight line with firepits evenly spaced 50 feet apart. They were unlike Hill forms caucus to promote fires used by Indian tribes, Karsmizki said, and there Lewis and Clark bicentennial were no major military-style expeditions that far up First the news came from Jim Holmberg, curator the Missouri until 1832. The team also found artifacts of special coll ections at the Filson Club, that four ranging from a flawed gun flint and hatchet-notched more letters written by William Clark to his brother bison vertebrae to hundreds of bone fragments, a Jonathan had been donated to the Filson Club by sharpened wooden stake and an iron push pin. All can Clark relatives. be dated by two scientific tests to the approximate Then came the stunning news that the original time the Corps of Discovery was in the area, and a ll handwritten letter in which William tells Jonathan on were found four to seven inches below ground. October 28, 1809, that "I fear this report has too "The discovery of a Lewis and Clark campsite al- much truth, tho' hope it may have no foundation .. . I

32 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 fear O! I fear the weight of his m ind has overcome Chuck Sundstrom, George Knapp, Teri Health, Nancy him." Grewatz'. an~ a few other fools (including me) have Holmberg said: "That pretty much says right there been dehvenng about 2 trunk presentations a week all that he does indeed believe his best friend took his summer long. So far, about 12,000 people have seen life. This is basically the only written evidence that one of our trunk presentations ... " we've been able to find in which William (Clark) Westward Barriers comes out and says he believes it's suicide. " Missoula. MT The only previous evidence was a typed copy of Iron boat may be sunk under waves of grain the letter which has been in circulation for some 70 Ken Karsmizki is on the trail of the holy grail of years. Lewis and Clark artifacts, magnetometer in hand. So The Filson Club obtained an initial batch of Clark's says reporter Kim Skornogoski in the Great Falls Tri­ papers in 199 0, w hen six of Johnathan Clark's de­ bune. scendants gave 47 of William Clark's letters w ritten She reports Karsmizki thinks the explorer's iron between 17 92 and 18 11 to the club. Over the sum ­ boat is buried I 0 feet down in a fi eld near White Bear mer. the descendants donated the balance of the Island, on the southern fringes of Great Fall s. fam ily papers - two steamer trunks fulls - to the club. Mystery surrounds the boat. Designed by Lewis, it Louisville (KY) Courier journal was the largest, most expensive and perhaps the most Lewis and Clark center details useless item brought on the expedition. It was dubbed Indian influence "the big disappointment" after it sunk because of the USA Today travel reporter Gene Sloan notes that, Jack of pine pitch to hold it together. "When it com es to epic j ourneys, the cross-country He determined the age of the dirt on Harry expedition of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark that Mitchell 's farm where the search is being carried on, began in 1804 is unmatched in U.S. history. Yet the and later he took his magnetometer into the field to explorers were far from the first to see the splendors search for metal. He now thinks he knows the location of the West. There were, of course, thousands of Na­ of the explorers ' campsite and from there hopes to tive Americans already there." find the boat. If found on Mitchell's property, the State Antiquities Writing about a tour of the new Lew~ and Clark In­ terpretive Center in Great Falls, he says that this is the Act states the boat would belong to him . Mitchell said central theme of the center, w ith a Mandan lodge, a he would make the boat and other artifacts found on Shoshone tepee, a Nez Perce w illow-frame fish trap . his land available to the public. Either the boat would and other displays of the life and culture of the tribes ' be kept whole at the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Cen­ Lewis and Clark encountered. Interpretive Centef Di­ ter or at the Museum of the Rockies (Bozeman), or in rector Jane Weber says the tribes are key to under­ pieces at several Lewis and Clark museums along the standing the expedition from St. Louis to Astoria, route. Oregon, and back. She says that what was dubbed the Mitchell is the recently retired president of the "Corps of Discovery" didn't discover anything the Na­ foundation's Portage Route Chapter in Great Falls. tive Americans hadn't already known, and the explor­ National Geographic Magazine has backed ers owed much to the Indian people. The Shoshone Karsmizki's research with a $27,000 grant gave them horses; the Mandan and Hidatsa prepared Great Falls (M1J Tribune them fo r their trip through Montana; the Nez Perce fed Lewis and Clark boosters want new centers at them. '" Pompeys Pillar, Illinois campsite A sidebar to the article lists and explains the other As the bicentennial of the Lewis and Clark expedi­ Lewis and Clark centers along the trail, but unfortu­ tion approaches, enthusiasts plan to build new interpre­ nately leaves out the new Lewis and Clark Interpretive tive centers at Pompeys Pillar in Montana and at the Center in North Dakota. expedition's first camp in Illinois to commemorate the USA Today journey and its influence on American history. A headline in the July 4, 1998 Great Falls Tribune They hope the federal government will provide fund­ reads, "Great Falls celebrates greatest Fourth of July ing this year. since 1805". The Lewis and Clark "Week of Discov· Many people rate Pompeys Pillar one of the most im­ portant artifacts associated with the expedition. It is ery" apparently made a real impression on the where Clark etched his name in sandstone on July 25, headline writer. 1806. The Illinois site is where the explorers stayed for Traveling Trunk five months before launching their expedition. In the president's message column of the Traveler's The Pompey's Pillar Association wants funds to build Res t Chapter newsletter, Nancy Maxson w rites, "Our a 12,000 square feet visitor's center which w ill include intrepid interpreters have had little rest this summer. (Update continued on page 34)

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 33 Little Coyote, by Charles j . Keim, A Shining Moun­ In his youth, Li ttle Coyote began a long life as seer­ tains book from Pictorial Histories Publishing Co ., medicine man-warrior for the Flathead tribe. The tribe Missoula, MT, 1996, 857 pages, hardcover, $25.00 lived in what is now the Bitterroot Vall ey in western A review by Martin Erickson Montana, south of Missoula. Those who attended the l 994 foundation annual meeting in Missoula know the Little Coyote is described as "an epic novel about beauty of the Flathead tribe's homeland. the Flathead Indians 1805 - 1891" . If epic means long, Shortly after Little Coyote becomes a seer-medicine then it sure is, but it is 857 pages of fascinating read­ man, Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery ing. I was given a review copy of the book at the Bi­ come through the valley. The first white men the tribe centennial Council meeting at Bismarck, North Dakota had ever seen made a lasting impression on them. A last spring, and it took me most of the summer to Salish-Kootenai (as the Flatheads and other tribes on read it. It was worth it. the reservation are now known) speaker at a luncheon Charles Keim, the author, is a Montana native and a during the 1994 foundation annual meeting com­ lifelong journalist and educator. He is Emeritus Profes­ mented that tribal leaders gave Lewis and Clark robes sor of j ournalism and English at the University of to warm them because they thought their white skin Alaska. Keim spent a dozen years researching and meant they were cold. writing this novel about the Flathead Indians. In his vision quest in 1804, Little Coyote saw the

UPDATE-Cont.from p. 33 such basic amenities as a modem restroom. The Sen­ and wildlife concerns by controlling Missouri River ate interior appropriations subcommittee has ear­ flows on a more natural basis. Along with some thirty marked $2 million for the project. The bill has a long other conservation groups, civic organizations and way to go before the money will materialize. The Illi­ sports clubs, American Rivers is advocating that com­ nois group already has $2.9 million allocated in state munities along the corridor pump new life into their funds and is hoping for federal funds to build a center waterfronts by creating more public access, more that will include audiovisual presentations, exhibits, parks, more trails and byways, and more nature pre­ documents, artifacts and an information area. serves. Another aspect of the five-year recovery pro­ The Senate interior appropriations subcommittee gram, according to Wodder and Stephen Ambrose, an also has provided $775,000 for maintenance and de­ American Rivers board member and nationally recog­ velopment along the trail. nize author and historian, is to work with agricultural Great Falls (MT) Tribune producers and management agencies to reduce im­ American Rivers kicks off plan to pacts on cottonwood trees. They are often damaged or renew Missouri destroyed by grazing cattle and are disappearing be­ A new initiative to change management focus and cause of a lack of life-giving floods. revitalize the Missouri River from its Montana headwa­ "In many cases, ranchers are some of our best al­ ters to St. Louis was launched in Great Falls on July 3rd lies" when trying to fix problems in riparian areas, by the national conservation group Am erican Rivers. Wodder said. Rebecca Wodder, the group's president, said the ini­ The project has been endorsed by the Lewis and tiative will be locally driven and locally controlled. Clark Bicentennial Council. Another shot in the arm is ".. . Hopefully, the end result will be a healthier and $8 million that has been approved by Congress for more beautiful Missouri River." mitigation projects in the Missouri Basin. Under the "Voyage of Recovery" project ,which is A companion bill, which envisions $50 million in tied to the 2004 bicentennial of the Lewis and Clark federal funding for restoring some of the river's chan­ Expedition, the group and its supporters hope to con­ nels to a more natural state, is also being considered vince the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to alter its wa­ by lawmakers, Wodder said. ter management policies. This would be accomplished Great Falls (MT) Tribune in part by giving greater attention to recreation, fish

34 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 coming of the white m en and was told never to fight woman (with a baby son) who was not recognized ac­ them. Instead the tribe helped them, listened to them curately for decades. Yes, she was one of the 33 Corps and defended them. In turn the w hites were treacher­ members who left Fort Mandan (in North Dakota) on ous, exploited them, neglected them, took their free­ April 7, 1805- entering a region never before explored dom from them and finally drove them from their by Americans. home valley to a reservation to the north. Sacajawea (the spelling preferred by her current Lewis and Clark and their men are a continuous Lemhi Shoshoni culture) was a 16 year old mother thread throughout the book. Their influence was strong married to the French interpreter Charbonneau, hired on the Flatheads during the expedition and the years by Lewis and Clark, who developed interest in his In­ following when john Colter, George Drouilllard and oth­ dian wife. She had been captured by another tribe ers returned as trappers and mountain men. The Black when 11 years old and after a vigorous life on the ex­ Robes, Fathers Pierre Desmet and Anthony Ravalli and pedition gave birth to a daughter and later died at 25 others are also a prominent part of the tribe's history on December 20, 1812, from a fever disease. Her two as are the traders, Indian agents and politicians. children were later cared for by Captain Clark. Both the heights of glory and the depths of despair This book concentrates on one aspect of this historic of the Flatheads come through in this book as the nar­ event- now approaching its bicentennial- with a rative ranges from Astoria, Oregon, to Washington, study guide for understanding her valuable expedition D.C., and brings to life the 86 years of transition of th e service. She provided Lewis and Clark with needed re­ tribe from free roaming hunter-warriors to pathetic gional geographic information and communication for shells of their former selves as transplanted tillers of securing food and horses from encountered tribes, did the soil. m uch work on harvesting food plants in various eco­ The Flatheads had contact with m any other tribes systems, personally saved important journal papers af­ from the Nez Perce on the west to the Mandans on the ter a river boat accident and provided a native Indian east. They traded with them, hunted buffalo with presence in the Corps that conveyed a peace message them, and some of the tribes fought the Blackfeet with to Indian warriors that m ight have attacked if only sol­ them. The Shoshoni and the Crows were their allies as diers were visible. were the Kutenai, Colville and Spokani. The author's discussion is based on his careful re­ The Flatheads are portrayed at their barbaric worst view of six volumes of the new j ournals of the Lewis and their humanitarian best. Charles Keim does an and Clark Expedition (University of Nebraska Press) outstanding job of showing the reader the many sides ' edited by Gary E. Moulton. In three brief segmen ts of of both the Flatheads (and other tribes) and the w hites each dated journal report of Sacajawea's work there in their interaction w ith the Indians. Keim has taken are·comm ents on the quoted entry and notes about the historical record and filled in the blanks. expedition activity, with each issue revealed in differ­ I would not hesitate to recomm end Little Coyote to ent printing. The preface stated goal that he wanted to anyone who has the slightest interest in learning as provide "a complete, clear picture of Sacaj awea and Paul Harvey says, "the rest of the story". her contribution to American history" is achieved. While the book lacks a bibliography on the subject, its The Truth About Sacajawea, by Kenneth Thomasma. use of the Lewis and Clark journal entries will be of in­ Illustrated by Agnes Vincent Talbot. (Grandview Pub­ terest to many readers. lishing Co., Jackson, Wyoming, 1997) lllustrations. 92 pages, hardcover. About the author ... Dr. jack Deforest is an environmental economist and a Book Review by Dr. Jack DeForest member of the foundation. President Thomas Jefferson ordered the 1804-06 Lewis and Clark "Corps of Discovery" expedition from St. COATS-cont.from p. 8 Louis up the Missouri River, over the Rocky Mountains Department, April 17, 1801, Envelope 38. Box 1169, "Uniform s," Consolidated Correspondence File 1794- to the Pacific Ocean after his 1803 Louisiana Purchase. 191 5, Records of the Quartermaster General, Record Group 92, Given the travel time and distance, available technol­ NAB Section, Military Reference Branch, National Archives and ogy, food availability, disease encounters and climate Records Administration, 8th Street and Pennsylvania, N.W., exposure, this was the most impressive exploration ac­ Washington, D.C. 20408, and the excellent article on the "Co rps of Volunteers for North Western Discovery, 1804- 18 06" by Alan tivity in U.S. history. Archambault and Marko Zlatich, Military Collector and Historian, The author and the artist in this attractive small Vol. XLI V, No.4, Winter 1992. book produced a well-written succinct text and excel­ 3See William K. Emerson, Encyclopedia of U.S. Army Uniforms. Chapter 3, p .27. lent illustrations concentrated on an important native (Coats continued on page 36)

NOVEMBER 1998 W E PRO CEEDED ON 35 and has been superintendent of Fort Clatsop National Memorial since 1990. She has a degree in anthropol­ ogy and archaeology and serves on the Oregon Lewis and Clark Bicen­ tennial Board. Cindy lives with her family in Astoria and has been a board member for five years. David Borlaug was born and raised in North Dakota and lives with his family in Washburn, home of Fort Mandan. He is group man­ ager for Lee Agri-Media. publisher of farm newspapers in Montana. North Dakota. South Dakota, Nebraska and Wisconsin. David is chairman of the North Dakota Lewis and Clark Bicentennial Foundation and the Governor's Lewis and Clark Bicen­ tennial Advisory Committee. He also serves on the board of directors of the National Bicentennial Council. New foundation officers for 1998-1999 are, left to right: Ludd Trozpek, secretary: Barb Kubik, former interim jerry Garrett. treasurer; Cynthia Orlando, president-elect; David Borlaug, executive director of the foundation, president, and Barbara Kubik, vice president. works as a contract historian for USA Weekend Today and the Wash­ About your new officers jerry, serving his second term as ington State Historical Society. She is Ludd, an astronomer and rare treasurer. is also treasurer for the a member of the Governor's Lewis book dealer. is serving his second National Lewis and Clark Bicenten­ and Clark Trail Committee and a term as secretary. He is retired from nial Council. He is a native Missou­ past contributor to We Proceeded a career in the field of inertial rian who lives in St. Louis. Jerry is a On. Barb is the foundation's Educa­ navigation and recently retired as a CPA, a member of the adjunct tion Committee chair and driving major in the army reserve. He is a faculty of the Washington University force behind our soon-to-be-pub­ commercial pilot with an instrument School of Medicine, and a past lished curriculum guide for middle rating. As chair of the Ad Hoc president of the Metro St. Louis school students. Barb is a recipient Website Committee. he developed Chapter. He has hiked the Grand of the foundation's 1998 Distin­ the official website for the founda­ Canyon twice. guished Service Award. She lives tion. Ludd lives in Claremont. Cindy Orlando is a 28-year with her family in Kennewick, California. veteran of the National Park Service Washington.

COATS-Cont. from p. 35 9 "Corps of Volunteers for North Western Discovery, I 804-1 806" •see Rene Chartrand, Uniforms and Equipment of the United Alan Archambault and Marko Zlatich. Military Collector and States Forces in the War of 1812. Youngstown, N.Y.: Old Fort Historian, Vol. XLIV, No.4, Winter 1992. Niagara Association, 1992. '°"Military Coat, About I 790" in Military Collector and Historian, 5Purveyor of Public Supplies to the Secretary of War, Box No.11. Vol.111, No.2, June 1951 pp.46-48. Hodgdon and Pickering Papers. RG94, Records of the Office of "See "American Epaulettes 1775- 1820," by Mendel L. Peterson. the Adjutant General, USNA. Military Collector and Historian, Vol.2, No.2, June 1950, p. 17. The 6Whelen to Dearborn, 9 June 1801: ff 180, Letters sent by the switch from r ed to yellow is also quoted from General Orders, Office of the Purveyor of Public Supplies, 24 May I 800-29 July Headquarters, Fort Adams. March 30. 1800, in "Uniforms of the 1802, Entry 380, RG 45, Records of the United States Navy. American Army," by Asa Bird Gardner, Magazine of American USNA. History. Vol. I, No.8, August 1877. 2 1Coxe to the Secretary of War, Sept. I 9. 1803: ff I 95- 196, ' Lewis and Clark Orderiy Book, from The W illiam Clark Papers, Letterbook of the Purveyor of Public Supplies, 2 August 1802-30 Box 3. Folder 9, Missouri Historical Society, a bound notebook December 1803, Item 15, Vol.29, Entry 21 1 7, RG 92, USNA. with covers. kept by Captains Lewis and Clark and Sergeant 8"The Infantry Enlisted Man's Coat, 1804-1810" by Detmar H. Ordway between 1804-1806, April 1. 1804. page 4. Finke and H. Charles McBarron, Military Collector and Historian. Vol. XL, No.4, Winter 1988, pp. 162-164.

36 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER I 998 Montana Chorale CD The Grand Canyon Chapter Honors Corps of on the Trail Discovery Although the Grand Canyon which set out on October 23, 1 775, "Voices of Discovery," a com­ Chapter in Arizona is admittedly its aim being to colonize the port pact disc of music from the "miles off the trail," its members' of San Francisco and strengthen Jeffersonian era, has been released interest in the Lewis and Clark ex­ the mission system. This trek, in­ by the Montana Chorale, a profes­ pedition whets their appetites for volving 240 people with their sup­ sional chamber choir of adult knowledge of other explorations. plies and livestock, arrived at the Montana singers. The release coin­ For their April 19th spring meet­ scattered missions in northern ing, 25 members of the chapter cides w ith the recent celebration California in the spring of t 776, as journeyed to southern Arizona for full scale colonial revolt was com­ of the opening of the Lewis and a talk by Don Garate of the U.S. ing to a head on our Atlantic Clark Interpretive Center in Great Park Service on two Spanish expe­ shores. Falls. The music, from the Colonial ditions, one in 177 4 followed by Although the route to northern and Revolutionary periods of the another in 177 5. The expeditions, California was closed by a revolt of United States, is a blend of patri­ led by Captain Juan Bautista de the Yuma Indians in 1781, effec­ otic, humorous, and spiritual songs Anza, were for the purpose of es­ tively denying the Spanish any fur­ of the period. After several months tablishing an overland route from ther use of the trail during the of research, the songs and ballads Sonora (which includes today's Spanish colonial period, the trail were chosen by Chorale Artistic northwestern Mexico and Arizona) would later serve the m ilitary, set­ Director Dr. Kenyard Sm ith of to Alta (Upper) California, and se­ tlers, cattlemen, forty-niners and Great Falls. curing a maj or Spanish presence in other desert travelers. The De Anza Music on the CD includes "The the area as a response to English Trai l is one of 12 national historical Riddle Song," "The Girl I Left Be­ and Russian influence. trails in the United States. hind Me," "Yankee Doodle," "Brit­ De Anza, a captain of the Royal While in southern Arizona, the ish Grenadiers" and an original Presidio at Tubae, Sonora (now in Grand Canyon Chapter also visited poem, "The j ourney of Lewis and southern A~ i zo n a), privately fi­ Tumacacori National Historical Clark." The poem, written espe­ nanced .the fi rst and relatively Park, site of one of the first m is­ cially for the chorale and the Lewis small expedition to determine the sions in upper Spanish Sonora and Clark Interpretive Center fes­ route of the trail, charting watering built in 1691, and near-by Tubae tivities, is by Elizabeth Cain, writer, holes, and establishing contacts Presidio State Park, where a small with local native tribes. The follow­ and musician from Lincoln, Mon­ Spanish garrison was established ing year, the Viceroy of New Spain in 1752 to protect the colonists tana. The poem is set for three authorized the second expedition and missions. solo voices: the men of the expedi­ tion, Sacagawea and Mother Earth. Music was important in colonial settlements and is mentioned'30 times in the Lewis and Clark Jour­ nals. Jefferson liked music and knew the tunes and dances that were popular. "Music was an activ­ ity reserved fo r men, particularly singing, which was loud. Loud was considered good, and loudest was best," according to Ann Cogswell. Popular songs of the period were the result of the cultures brought to the new world. For more inform ation: Montana Chorale, Box 6083, Great Falls, MT 59406 or call (406) 452-8355. Grand Canyon Chapter Members at TUmacacori Mission

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 37 WPO Feature Articles Editor Seeks Information

The editi ng and preparation of It is hoped that the final publica­ Kenneth Karsmizki Barbara Kubik the feature articles from the past tion will be popular to the general Robert E. Lange twenty-three years of WPO is in its reader as well as a unique source for Arlen j . Large final stages. Editor Bob Saindon is scholars doing serious research on Elizabeth Langhorn now seeking assistance in updating matters relating to the Lewis and Mary Newton Lewis the biographies of the authors and Clark Expedition. Ronald V. Loge preparing appropriate acknowledg­ Authors wishing to make minor Carol Lynn MacGregor Walter Marx ments. corrections in their articles can do Linda Mizell We are especially concerned that so by photo copying the original Robert J. Moore no appropriate acknowledgment is from WPO and indicating the cor­ Gary E. Moulton overlooked. If you know of any per­ rections. Please do not send rewrit­ Frank Muhly son, company, or institution that ten manuscripts. Dan Murphy should be acknowledged for its con­ Foundation members providing Joseph A. Mussulman Donald Nell tribution to WPO over the years or requested information should con­ Martin Plamondon II to this project specifically, we would tact Bob Saindon, 316 Benton Ann Rogers like to hear from you. Please do not Street, Wolf Point, MT 59201. James P. Ronda assume that your thoughts on this . The following is a tentative list of Donald W. Rose matter are too obvious. authors whose articles are being Robert A. Saindon William P. Sherman At present there are about 1 70 considered for inclusion in the pub­ Jim Smithers articles written by 62 authors that lication. If the living authors and Frances H. Stadler have been edited and are being con­ friends or relatives of the deceased john H. Stofield sidered for the publication. Nearly authors would kindly update bio­ Jeanette D. Taranik half (81) of these articles were writ­ graphical information it would be George Tweney Edrie L. Vinson ten by ten Foundation members appreciated. W. Raymond Wood who are now deceased. William Clark Adreon Alan R. Woolworth The articles have been catego­ John Logan Allen rized and placed in chronological Stephen Ambrose order with regard to the historical Irving W. Anderson Guy Benson sequence of the subject matter (e.g., Michael J. Brodhead Before Lewis and Clark, Expedition Jo Ann Brown Preparations, Along the Trail, Scien­ Raymond D. Burroughs tific Aspects, etc., etc.) Appropriate Robert B. Betts illustrations will be selected from Louis Charbonneau Roy M. Chatters those used in WPO, an extensive Eldon G. Chuinard bibliography and index are also be­ Roy Craft ing prepared. Paul R. Cutright Thomas W. Dunlay Ruth Frick Harry W. Fritz James A. Gardner If you are in the neighborhood Robert E. Gatten, Jr. of National Geographic's mu­ Larry Gill seum (Explorers Hall) you can Paul C. Graveline examine artifacts of the Lewis Charles E. Hanson, Jr. and Clark expedition until No­ Jane Henley Wilbur Hoffman vember 27, 1998. And mark Bob Holcomb your calendars to watch the Erik Holland miniseries of Stephen James J. Holmberg Ambrose's bestseller Un­ Virginia C. Homgren daunted Courage-coming in Howard Hooverstol Which way should we go? An alert the fall of 1 999 from National Robert R. Hunt foundation couple spotted this left­ Donald Jackson Geographic Television. sign, right arrow confusion Joseph D. Jeffery somewhere along the trail.

38 WE PROCEEDED ON NOVEMBER 1998 -

BICENTENNIAL COUNCIL Clark Expedition. The Outstanding PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Cont.from p. J Service Award recognizes service Cont. from p.J to the council. Nomination forms Workshop. This year's theme is: is indeed a "child of the founda­ are available in this issue of We "Proceeding on with our Partners." tion," in the words of past presi­ Proceeded On, or may be obtained The Work.shop will be held April dent Chet Orloff. We will all be by contacting the council at either 21-24, 1999. For more informa­ very proud of what the council will our street or "www" address. tion, contact the Council. have accomplished leading up to, Deadline for receipt is January 15, Third, the Council j ust returned and including the bicentennial 1999. Awards will be conferred at from a successful event in Wash­ years. the council's Fourth Annual Na­ ington, D.C., where on October 1, But, getting back to the founda­ tional Planning Workshop. 1998 in the Jefferson Room at the tion. How will we parlay this global attention to all things "Lewis and Library of Congress, we joined 13 federal agencies in a joint Memo­ Clark" into something of enduring EDITOR'S DESK value ... namely increased member­ randum of Understanding for ac­ Cont. from p.J ship? tivities and programs for the And, just how large do we want bicentennial of the expedition. The we will run color when we have to become in the process? council co-hosted a congressional something colorful to run. Once These are questions your board reception following the signing, again the Ambrose Fund is allowing of directors and executive director and at the council's invitation us to do this. will be grappling with in the Stephen Ambrose briefed those The Week of Discovery in Great Falls at the end of June and early months and years to come. From present on the essential and criti­ my perspective, I will assure you cal challenges of preserving the July was a total success. 498 people registered for the annual m eeting of that while "size is not everything," legacies of the Lewis and Clark. Ex­ the foundation. 575 attended the increased m embership will serve pedition. The 125 guests included foundation banquet. More would to help fulfill the function of this members of the council and have attended, but that was the organization best .. .to tell the story foundation's board of directors, maximum seating in the Heritage of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, trail state senators and representa­ Inn in Great Falls where the meet­ in all its many and varied forms, to tives, several federal agency direc­ ing was headG)uartered. Speaking of as wide an audience as possible. tors, representatives from the space ~\la il ab l e, I am going to try to Association of the U.S. Army, squeeze some Week of Discovery American Rivers, National Geo­ photos in this issue if J can find the ample of community effort it is. graphic, and the press. space, but I am more than full up I say this because, just like Great In clos ing, the council notes so, as my friend Harold says, "ei­ Falls, our Lewis and Clark chapters with sadness the passing of found­ ther I will or I won't". in Philadelphia, Washington State, ing president Harry Hubbard, In Those who attended the annual Minnesota, Idaho, St. Louis as well the words of his award con ferred meeting found out in a hurry why as our other Lewis and Clark at the foundation's annual meet­ Great Falls was selected as the site chapters are on the road to making ing: "May we proceed in the steps for the national headquarters. There their communities and states aware of Mr. Hubbard's dedication to the are a number of doers in the Por­ of the vitality and importance of the commemoration of the tage Route Chapter of the founda­ expedition in the history of our expedition ... as a gi ft to future gen­ tion. Doers, not talkers. People who country. They are utilizing and erations in their quest for knowl­ think we can accomplish anything expanding the same teamwork that edge, new frontiers and expanded we choose to do abound in this made the expedition such a suc­ understanding of our world." Lewis and Clark chapter_Jhey are a cess. Oh, almost forgot. The Lewis Finally, the council has an reflection of the community at large and Clark Interpretive Center in awards program: the Harry where, even as I write this, the Great Falls reports over 63,000 paying visitors from when it opened Hubbard Founder's Award, dedi­ Charlie Russell Museum board has raised about two-thirds of the $5.7 in May until the end of August. cated to the m emory of Mr. million needed to expand the west­ Is it a success or what? Hubbard's leadership of the coun­ ern art museum. Those of you who cil, recognizes outstanding effort in attended the annual meeting visited promoting the commemoration of the Russell Museum for a reception the bicentennial of the Lewis and and tour and know what a fine ex-

NOVEMBER 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 39 Capt. William Clark I 2nd Novr. 1804 Friday

Capt. Lewis returned' to the Village & I fixed on a place for to build afort and Set to work