Tsukemono Ole G

Tsukemono Ole G. Mouritsen • Klavs Styrbæk Tsukemono Decoding the Art and Science of Japanese Pickling Photography Jonas Drotner Mouritsen Translation and adaptation to English Mariela Johansen Ole G. Mouritsen Klavs Styrbæk Department of Food Science STYRBÆKS University of Copenhagen Odense N, Denmark Copenhagen, Denmark Translation and adaptation to English by Mariela Johansen Photography by Jonas Drotner Mouritsen ISBN 978-3-030-57861-9 ISBN 978-3-030-57862-6 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-57862-6 © The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2021 This work is subject to copyright. 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This Springer imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Switzerland AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland v Contents Tsukemono— a Japanese Culinary Art Based on the Science of Preservation. 1 ‘The Taste and Smell of Home’ �� 3 Tradition and Renewal. 4 Vegetables and Tsukemono—Made for Each Other. 7 Moving toward a More Plant-Based Diet �� 8 Making Vegetables More Palatable �� 10 The Many Varieties of Tsukemono �� 13 A Little Bit of Tsukemono History �� 15 Ten Ways to Prepare Tsukemono . 16 Salt, Taste, Mouthfeel, and Colour �� 35 Salt Is the Key �� 36 Taste and Mouthfeel. 38 The Colour of Tsukemono . 39 Spices and Other Flavour Enhancers �� 40 Techniques and Methods �� 43 The Physical Structure of Vegetables 46 Plant Cells . 46 Turgor and Crispness �� 47 Pectin and Crisp Vegetables. 50 It Is All about Reducing Water Content . 50 Dehydration �� 51 The Pickling Crocks. 54 Brining. 58 Shio-zuke . 59 Pickling . 60 Su-zuke. 61 Marinating in Soy Sauce, Miso, and Sake Lees �� 61 Shoyu-zuke �� 62 Miso-zuke. 64 Kasu-zuke �� 65 Fermenting and Yeasting �� 66 Control of Salt Content, Temperature, and Access to Oxygen �� 68 Nuka-zuke �� 69 Koji-zuke. 72 Fermented Vegetables in Other Food Cultures �� 75 Pickled Cucumbers . 76 Tsukemono in Salads and as Condiments . 78 vi Contents Tsukemono for Everyone . 81 Cucumbers. 84 Asparagus �� 86 Jerusalem Artichokes. 89 Broccoli . 92 Kohlrabi. 94 Daikon, Carrots, and ‘Vegetable Pasta’ �� 97 Radishes and Turnips. 100 Chinese Cabbage and Lacinato Kale �� 107 Garlic �� 110 Squash. 112 Ginger Root . 114 Danish Open-Faced Sandwiches Made with Tsukemono �� 115 Plums . 118 Flowers �� 120 Tsukemono in Japan �� 123 ‘Preserving the Japanese Way’. 124 Pickled Foods Made in Factories, Both Small and Large. 126 A Visit to a Typical Family Enterprise �� 126 Tsukemono in a Large Factory Setting. 129 Tsukemono at the Market and in Shops. 130 Old-Fashioned Tsukemono Shops. 131 Tsukemono at a Street Market �� 132 Tsukemono, Nutrition, and Wellness . 135 Slightly Sour, a Little Tart �� 137 Vitamin Content. 138 Desirable Bacteria, Fungi, and Enzymes. 139 Benefcial Efects of Fermentation �� 140 Fermentation Can Facilitate the Release of More Readily Bioavailable Nutrients . 140 Fermentation Helps to Preserve Foods So That They Are Safe to Eat and Will Keep Longer �� 141 Fermentation Can Improve the Taste of Foods and Their Ability to Stimulate the Appetite and Regulate Food Intake �� 141 Go Easy on the Salt . 143 Eat Tsukemono in Moderation. 144 Wabi, Tsukemono, and Esthetics . 147 The Technical Details Glossary of Japanese Terms . 152 Illustration Credits �� 163 Bibliography . 164 Index . 167 vii Preface For the past fve years or so Ole and Klavs have been preoccupied with exploring various aspects of the texture of food, referred to more formally as its mouthfeel. This quality has an incredibly important effect on the sensory experience of eat- ing—whether a particular food is considered interesting, whether its ‘taste’ lives up to expectations, and whether people like or reject it. Another special focus of ours has been the ffth taste, umami, described as ‘meaty,’ ‘savoury,’ or ‘brothy,’ which is also central to our enjoyment of, and craving for, certain types of food. The end result of our work on these two topics has been the publication of a book devoted to each subject. Additional research has been carried out under the auspices of Taste for Life, an interdisciplinary Danish centre that combines the study of the scientifc underpinnings of taste with wide-ranging efforts to disseminate this information to the general public—from school children to seniors—to emphasize how healthy food choices can be made more appealing and lead to a better quality of life. These two factors relate particularly closely to the consumption of vegetables, which are a vital component of our diet. Nevertheless, many people will readily admit that on a daily basis they frequently fail to eat them in suffcient quantities. We think that the underlying reason.

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