Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Munich, Bavaria Welcome to Munich, & the Black Forest ....... 2 Bavaria Map .................................. 4 & the Black Forest 10 Top Experiances ........ 6 Need To Know ................. 12 COUNTRYUNTRY & CITYCITYY • The original First Time ........................ 14 • Comprehensivep • AdventurousAdventu Southern Comfort Alpine Air & What’s New ..................... 16 The Germans have a word, Gemütlichkeit, Munich Flair that untranslatable blend of cosiness, well- Bavaria is deÀ nitely a place for those who being and a laid-back attitude. Nowhere 10 prefer their air fresh rather than fresh- does this mood permeate deeper than in ened. Though the Alps only tickle Ger- 6 the prosperous7 south where fairy-lit beer many’s underbelly, locals know how to get gardens, IMAGES© PERSHOUSE/GETTY CRAIG Alpine views, medieval towns, the most SIEPMANN/IMAGEBROKER© MARTIN out of their peaks, stringing ca- rousing hilltop castles and many a red- ble cars up the vertical reality of the Alps; If You Like ........................ 17 faced village brass band awaits you. But marking out entire atlases of cycling, hik- there’s another facet to Gemütlichkeit: it’s ing and cross-country skiing trails; even also a marble-smooth autobahn of luxury running a train up the inside of the Zugs- cars speeding to gourmet restaurants and pitze, Germany’s highest mountain. Yet all chic Alpine spas, Munich’s high-brow cul- this is just a short ride from the urban joie tural scene robed in black, and cappuc- de vivre of Munich, a sexy, sophisticated Month by Month ............. 20 cinos at dawn on intercity expresses. The and self-conÀ dent city with a nonchalant, two southern Germanys coexist, an incon- almost Mediterranean feel. gruous mix packed with the unexpected. 8 Oktoberfest .................... 22 01-welcome-to-bav4.indd 2 IMAGES© BEINSSEN/GETTY PAUL 4/12/2012// 2:08:27 PM Itineraries ........................ 27 Outdoor Activities .......... 31 14 Everyone needs a helping hand Romantic Road Baden-Baden Salzburg when they visit a country for As roads go, Western Some 2000 years ago At times Salzburg (p185) First the first time. There are phrases 6 Bavaria’s Romantic 7 the Romans raved about 8 can feel like a Hollywood Road (p126) is something baden (bathing) in Baden- À lm set, with its theatrical Travel with Children ....... 36 to learn, customs to get used to pretty special – a 350km- Baden’s therapeutic waters alpine backdrop, exuberant and etiquette to understand. long ribbon of higgledy- (p 235 ), and the spring-fed baroque architecture, and Time piggledy walled towns town still hasn’t lost its Mozart and Maria every- The following section will help and soothing countryside. touch. Royalty and celebrities where. But here’s the good first demystify southern Germany so However, it’s not all medieval from Queen Victoria to Vic- news: it’s real. History seeps quaintness; the route passes toria Beckham have put this through the Altstadt’s maze Regions at a Glance ....... 38 your first trip goes as smoothly blockbuster Harburg castle, classy Black Forest spa town of narrow lanes, crowned by as your fifth. the Unesco-listed baroque on the global map, but its a formidable fortress and time Wieskirche and Ludwig II’s merits speak for themselves. sprinkled with churches and Schloss Neuschwanstein. Nestled smugly at the foot of abbeys. Pathways thread Yes, it’s tourist-clogged, and thickly wooded hills, this is along river banks and cliՖ yes, the renovation can be a good-looking, good-living ridges, allowing you to survey more Technicolor than Teu- town of pristine belle époque the city from every photo- Language What to tonic, but come in the snow, villas and sculpture-strewn genic angle. By night, locals stroll after the tourist buses gardens, cupola-crowned pour into palatial concert It’s just about possible to get by in Germany’s south without speak- Pack depart or tackle the route by spas, and ritzy boutiques, halls for chamber concerts, ing any German whatsoever, but learning a few simple words and bike, and the Romantic Road cafes and restaurants. and chestnut-canopied beer » phrases will pay dividends in all kinds of situations from the restau- Passport begins to live up to its name. Bavarian health spa gardens for monastic brews. rant table to the booking office. In big cities, such as Munich and » Credit/debit cards Marktplatz, Rothenburg Schloss Hellbrunn Nuremberg, English is spoken by those who come into regular con- » Driving licence PHRASEBOOK POCKETPOCKET & tact with foreigners, but this may not be the case in rural locations. » Mobile phone DIDISCOVERSCCOVERERR charger ENCOUNTER » Prescription Pocket-sized Booking Ahead 03-top-experiences-bav4.indd 10 4/12/2012 2:07:07 PM • medicines Booking a room in a foreign language can be a daunting task, so • Best-of here are some phrases to see you through a call to the place you’d » European plug Pocket-sized like to stay. adaptor • • Easy-to-use » Earplugs • Photo-packed I would like to book a room. Ich möchte bitte ein » Spare glasses Easy-to-use Zimmer reservieren. » Hiking boots • • Highlights a single room ein Einzelzimmer » Camera Inspirational • • Highlights Looking for other travel resources? 05-first-time-bav4.indd 14 4/12/2012 2:04:35 PM PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 275 MUNICH, BAVARIA Learn about the big picture, so you & THE BLACK FOREST can make sense of what you see Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest Today ...... 276 population per sq km BADEN- WURRTEMBERG BAVARIA GERMANY History ............................. 278 ≈ 180 people Bavarian Culture Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest Today LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE & Traditions .................. 288 It’s the Economy, Stupid! For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Even the most militant anti-capitalist might shut down Facebook and blow out the Molotov, just for a moment, to agree that Bavaria is a ram- advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas Facts: pant success story of post-war free enterprise. Just one stat says it all – if nich & Bavaria was an independent country (and not a small number of locals Food & Drink ................... 296 varia secretly wish it were), its economy would be the world’s 19th largest chapters 70,549 (equally affluent Baden-Württemberg would rank around 22nd), bigger History than Sweden or Austria and more than twice the size of neighbouring lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine One of Europe’s oldest states, with origins dating back to the 6th century, ation: 12.6 Czech Republic. Germany’s economic California is cooking with gas, and it’s safe to say that Bavaria, Germany’s largest and southernmost Land, probably on an eco-friendly stove of sturdy design, proudly stamped with Landscapes & Wildlife ... 302 has enjoyed a long and eventful past, one populated by a weird-and-wun- €446 ‘Hergestellt in Bayern’ (Made in Bavaria). Even as it looked as though derbarr cast of oddball kings, scandalous courtesans and infamous Nazis. Germany’s economy was losing momentum in late 2012, Bavaria and the However, the Bavaria of today is a relatively new territorial entity, its apita rest of southern Germany still seemed like a pretty good investment. three distinct tribes – the Bajuwaren (Bavarians), the Franken (Franconi- €2650 So what underpins the south’s economic triumph? Good ‘ole manu- nth facturing seems to be the ‘secret’, with a motor industry second to none ans) and the Schwaben (Swabians) – each having developed quite sepa- ollar), rately until thrown in together by Napoleon as the Kingdom of Bavaria leading the way The most desirable names of the Teutonic luxury car in 1806. Munich was founded in 1158 by Duke Heinrich der Löwe (Henry the Lion), granted town rights in 1175 and declared capital of Bavaria in STAY IN TOUCH 1506. Although never really at the centre of European power, Bavaria was a key player in continental politics for centuries. Governed by the same family, the colourful Wittelsbachs, for over 700 years, it was able to form a distinct culture that continues to shape its image and identity to this lonelyplanet.com/contact day. The most famous member of the House of Wittelsbach was King Ludwig II, who frittered away the family silver on blockbuster castles, thus creating Bavaria’s modern tourist industry. Of course Bavaria of the 20th century is synonymous with the rise of twitter.com/ Hitler and the Nazis who found fertile ground for their ideas in the work- AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 in class neighbourhoods of Munich and Nuremberg. The area is littered with reminders of those stormy decades when mass rallies were held in Nuremberg, and Dachau became the Nazis’ first concentration cam . %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-409-0 facebook.com/ 99125 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes 20-southern-germany-today-bav4.indd 276 4/12/2012 2:11:50 PM environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 794090 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter 21-history-bav4.indd 278 4/12/2012 2:10:09 PM munich-bavaria-black-forest-4-cover.indd 2 4/12/2012 4:14:56 PM PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 40 ROAD and insider tips Bavaria p104 Stuttgart & the Black Forest Munich p213 p42 ^# Salzburg ^# & Around p185 WANT MORE? For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s German Phrasebook.