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Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to , Welcome to Munich, & the Black ...... 2 Bavaria Map ...... 4 & the Black Forest 10 Top Experiances ...... 6 Need To Know ...... 12 COUNTRYUNTRY & CITYCITYY • The original First Time ...... 14 • Comprehensivep • AdvAdventurousentu Southern Comfort Alpine Air & What’s New ...... 16 The Germans have a word, Gemütlichkeit, Munich Flair that untranslatable blend of cosiness, well- Bavaria is deÀ nitely a place for those who being and a laid-back attitude. Nowhere 10 prefer their air fresh rather than fresh- does this mood permeate deeper than in ened. Though the Alps only tickle Ger- 6 the prosperous7 south where fairy-lit beer many’s underbelly, locals know how to get gardens,CRAIG PERSHOUSE/GETTY IMAGES© Alpine views, medieval towns, the mostMARTIN SIEPMANN/IMAGEBROKER© out of their peaks, stringing ca- rousing hilltop castles and many a red- ble cars up the vertical reality of the Alps; If You Like ...... 17 faced village brass band awaits you. But marking out entire atlases of cycling, hik- there’s another facet to Gemütlichkeit: it’s ing and cross-country skiing trails; even also a marble-smooth autobahn of luxury running a train up the inside of the Zugs- cars speeding to gourmet restaurants and pitze, ’s highest mountain. Yet all chic Alpine spas, Munich’s high-brow cul- this is just a short ride from the urban joie tural scene robed in black, and cappuc- de vivre of Munich, a sexy, sophisticated Month by Month ...... 20 cinos at dawn on intercity expresses. The and self-conÀ dent city with a nonchalant, two southern Germanys coexist, an incon- almost Mediterranean feel. gruous mix packed with the unexpected.

8 Oktoberfest ...... 22 01-welcome-to-bav4.indd 2 PAUL BEINSSEN/GETTY IMAGES© 4/12/2012// 2:08:27 PM Itineraries ...... 27

Outdoor Activities ...... 31 14 Everyone needs a helping hand Romantic Road -Baden Salzburg when they visit a country for As roads go, Western Some 2000 years ago At times Salzburg (p185) First the first time. There are phrases 6 Bavaria’s Romantic 7 the Romans raved about 8 can feel like a Hollywood Road (p126) is something baden (bathing) in Baden- À lm set, with its theatrical Travel with Children ...... 36 to learn, customs to get used to pretty special – a 350km- Baden’s therapeutic waters alpine backdrop, exuberant and etiquette to understand. long ribbon of higgledy- (p 235 ), and the spring-fed baroque architecture, and Time piggledy walled towns town still hasn’t lost its Mozart and Maria every- The following section will help and soothing countryside. touch. Royalty and celebrities where. But here’s the good first demystify southern Germany so However, it’s not all medieval from Queen Victoria to Vic- news: it’s real. History seeps quaintness; the route passes toria Beckham have put this through the Altstadt’s maze Regions at a Glance ...... 38 your first trip goes as smoothly blockbuster Harburg castle, classy Black Forest spa town of narrow lanes, crowned by as your fifth. the Unesco-listed baroque on the global map, but its a formidable fortress and time and Ludwig II’s merits speak for themselves. sprinkled with churches and Schloss Neuschwanstein. Nestled smugly at the foot of abbeys. Pathways thread Yes, it’s tourist-clogged, and thickly wooded hills, this is along river banks and cliՖ yes, the renovation can be a good-looking, good-living ridges, allowing you to survey more Technicolor than Teu- town of pristine belle époque the city from every photo- Language What to tonic, but come in the snow, villas and sculpture-strewn genic angle. By night, locals stroll after the tourist buses gardens, cupola-crowned pour into palatial concert It’s just about possible to get by in Germany’s south without speak- Pack depart or tackle the route by spas, and ritzy boutiques, halls for chamber concerts, ing any German whatsoever, but learning a few simple words and bike, and the Romantic Road cafes and restaurants. and chestnut-canopied beer » phrases will pay dividends in all kinds of situations from the restau- Passport begins to live up to its name. Bavarian health spa gardens for monastic brews. rant table to the booking office. In big cities, such as Munich and » Credit/debit cards Marktplatz, Rothenburg Schloss Hellbrunn Nuremberg, English is spoken by those who come into regular con- » Driving licence PHRASEBOOK POCKETPOCKET & tact with foreigners, but this may not be the case in rural locations. » Mobile phone DIDISCOVERSCCOVERERR charger ENCOUNTER » Prescription Pocket-sized Booking Ahead 03-top-experiences-bav4.indd 10 4/12/2012 2:07:07 PM • medicines Booking a room in a foreign language can be a daunting task, so • Best-of here are some phrases to see you through a call to the place you’d » European plug Pocket-sized like to stay. adaptor • • Easy-to-use » Earplugs • Photo-packed I would like to book a room. Ich möchte bitte ein » Spare glasses Easy-to-use Zimmer reservieren. » Hiking boots • • Highlights a single room ein Einzelzimmer » Camera Inspirational • • Highlights Looking for other travel resources?

05-first-time-bav4.indd 14 4/12/2012 2:04:35 PM PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 275 MUNICH, BAVARIA Learn about the big picture, so you & THE BLACK FOREST can make sense of what you see

Munich, Bavaria & the

Black Forest Today ...... 276 population per sq km BADEN- WURRTEMBERG BAVARIA GERMANY History ...... 278 ≈ 180 people Bavarian Culture Munic h, Bavaria & the Black Forest Today LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE

& Traditions ...... 288 It’s the Economy, Stupid! For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Even the most militant anti-capitalist might shut down Facebook and blow out the Molotov, just for a moment, to agree that Bavaria is a ram- advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas Facts: pant success story of post-war free enterprise. Just one stat says it all – if nich & Bavaria was an independent country (and not a small number of locals Food & Drink ...... 296 varia secretly wish it were), its economy would be the world’s 19th largest chapters 70,549 (equally affluent Baden-Württemberg would rank around 22nd), bigger History than Sweden or Austria and more than twice the size of neighbouring lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine One of ’s oldest states, with origins dating back to the 6th century, ation: 12.6 Czech Republic. Germany’s economic California is cooking with gas, and it’s safe to say that Bavaria, Germany’s largest and southernmost Land, probably on an eco-friendly stove of sturdy design, proudly stamped with Landscapes & Wildlife ... 302 has enjoyed a long and eventful past, one populated by a weird-and-wun- €446 ‘Hergestellt in Bayern’ (Made in Bavaria). Even as it looked as though derbarr cast of oddball kings, scandalous courtesans and infamous Nazis. Germany’s economy was losing momentum in late 2012, Bavaria and the However, the Bavaria of today is a relatively new territorial entity, its apita rest of southern Germany still seemed like a pretty good investment. three distinct tribes – the Bajuwaren (), the Franken (Franconi- €2650 So what underpins the south’s economic triumph? Good ‘ole manu- nth facturing seems to be the ‘secret’, with a motor industry second to none ans) and the Schwaben (Swabians) – each having developed quite sepa- ollar), rately until thrown in together by Napoleon as the leading the way The most desirable names of the Teutonic luxury car in 1806. Munich was founded in 1158 by Duke Heinrich der Löwe (Henry the Lion), granted town rights in 1175 and declared capital of Bavaria in STAY IN TOUCH 1506. Although never really at the centre of European power, Bavaria was a key player in continental politics for centuries. Governed by the same family, the colourful Wittelsbachs, for over 700 years, it was able to form a distinct culture that continues to shape its image and identity to this lonelyplanet.com/contact day. The most famous member of the House of Wittelsbach was King Ludwig II, who frittered away the family on blockbuster castles, thus creating Bavaria’s modern tourist industry. Of course Bavaria of the 20th century is synonymous with the rise of twitter.com/ Hitler and the Nazis who found fertile ground for their ideas in the work- AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 in class neighbourhoods of Munich and Nuremberg. The area is littered with reminders of those stormy decades when mass rallies were held in Nuremberg, and became the Nazis’ first concentration cam . %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-409-0 facebook.com/ 99125 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes 20-southern-germany-today-bav4.indd 276 4/12/2012 2:11:50 PM environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 794090 management of the world’s . %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

21-history-bav4.indd 278 4/12/2012 2:10:09 PM munich-bavaria-black-forest-4-cover.indd 2 4/12/2012 4:14:56 PM PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 40 ROAD and insider tips

Bavaria p104

Stuttgart & the Black Forest Munich p213 p42 ^# Salzburg ^# & Around p185

WANT MORE? For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s German Phrasebook. You’ll  nd it at shop.lonely planet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

PAGE LanguagelanguageVITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP German belongs to the West Germanic lan- How are you? guage family, with English and Dutch as close Wie geht es vee gayt es 305 relatives, and has around 100 million speak- Ihnen/dir? (pol/inf) ee·nen/deer ers. It is commonly divided into two forms – Fine. And you? Low German (Plattdeutsch) and High Ger- Danke, gut. dang·ke goot GUIDE man (Hochdeutsch). Low German is an Und Ihnen/dir? (pol/inf) unt ee·nen/deer umbrella term used for the dialects spoken What’s your name? in Northern Germany. High German is con- Wie ist Ihr Name? (pol) vee ist eer nah·me sidered the standard form and is understood Wie heißt du? (inf) vee haist doo throughout German-speaking communities; Directory A-Z...... 306 it’s also the variety used in this chapter. My name is ... German is easy for English speakers to Mein Name ist ... (pol) main nah·me ist ... pronounce because almost all of its sounds Ich heiße ... (inf) ikh hai·se ... are also found in English. If you read our Do you speak English? Transport...... 313 coloured pronunciation guides as if they Sprechen Sie shpre·khen zee were English, you’ll have no problems being Englisch? (pol) eng·lish understood. Note that kh is like the ‘ch’ in Sprichst du Englisch? (inf) shprikhst doo eng·lish ‘Bach’ or the Scottish ‘loch’ (pronounced at I don’t understand. Language...... 319 the back of the throat), r is also pronounced Ich verstehe nicht. ikh fer·shtay·e nikht at the back of the throat (almost like a g, but with some friction), zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘measure’, and ü as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ but Index...... 328 with rounded lips.The stressed syllables are ACCOMMODATION indicated with italics. campsite Campingplatz kem·ping·plats guesthouse Pension pahng·zyawn Map Legend...... 335 BASICS hotel Hotel ho·tel Hello. Guten Tag. goo·ten tahk inn Gasthof gast·hawf Goodbye. Auf owf room in a Privatzimmer pri·vaht·tsi·mer Wiedersehen. vee·der·zay·en private home Yes./No. Ja./Nein. yah/nain youth hostel Jugend- yoo·gent· Please. Bitte. bi·te herberge her·ber·ge Thank you. Danke. dang·ke You’re Bitte. bi·te Do you have Haben Sie hah·ben zee welcome. a ... room? ein ...? ain ... Excuse me. Entschuldigung. ent·shul·di·gung double Doppelzimmer do·pel·tsi·mer Sorry. Entschuldigung. ent·shul·di·gung single Einzelzimmer ain·tsel·tsi·mer

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Marc Di Duca, Kerry Christiani Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

MUNICH �����������������������42 AROUND MUNICH ����������������98 Dachau �����������������������������������98 Schleissheim �������������������������98 ����������������������������������99 Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land �����������������100

BAVARIA ������������������� 104 BAVARIAN ALPS ������������������108 Füssen ���������������������������������109 Wieskirche ����������������������������113 Schloss Linderhof ��������������113 ������������������113 ��������������������������������������114 Garmisch-Partenkirchen ���114 ����������������������������118 Oberstdorf ����������������������������118 ��������������������������������119 Bad Tölz �������������������������������120 ������������������������������121 ������������������� 123 THE ROMANTIC ROAD ������126 Würzburg �����������������������������126 Rothenburg ob der Tauber ����������������������������131 Dinkelsbühl �������������������������136 Nördlingen ����������������������������137 Donauwörth ������������������������139 Augsburg �����������������������������139 am Lech ����������� 142 NUREMBERG & ������������������������ 143 Nuremberg �������������������������144 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Bamberg ����������������������������� 155 Ulm ������������������������������������� 231 Birnau �����������������������������������270 Bayreuth ����������������������������� 159 THE BLACK FOREST ����������235 Affenberg Salem ����������������271 Coburg ��������������������������������� 162 Baden-Baden ���������������������235 Schloss Salem ��������������������271 Altmühltal �����163 ��������������������������� 241 Friedrichshafen ��������������������271 Eichstätt ����������������������������� 165 �����������������������243 Ravensburg �������������������������272 & Kinzigtal �������������������������������244 Lindau ���������������������������������273 THE ����������������������168 ���������������������������245 Regensburg �������������������������168 �����������������������������246 Around Regensburg ������������175 �������������������������������246 ����������������������������175 Haslach �������������������������������247 ������������������������������178 �����������������������247 Passau ��������������������������������� 179 �������������������������������248 �������������������182 ���������������������254 Steinwasen Park �����������������254 SALZBURG & Todtnauer Wasserfall ���������254 AROUND ��������������������185 St Peter �������������������������������254 SALZBURG �������������������������� 187 Breisach �������������������������������255 AROUND SALZBURG ����������210 Kaiserstuhl �������������������������255 Schloss Hellbrunn �������������210 �������������������������������256 Untersberg �������������������������210 -Neustadt ����������������256 Gaisberg ������������������������������210 �������������������������257 Hallein & Bad Dürrnberg �����210 Triberg ���������������������������������258 Werfen ��������������������������������� 212 Stöcklewaldturm ���������������259 Martinskapelle �������������������259 & THE Villingen-Schwenningen ����260 BLACK FOREST ����������213 �������������������������������261 STUTTGART ������������������������216 �����������������������262 Around Stuttgart ���������������225 ��������������262 SWABIAN ALPS & �����������������������������263 AROUND ������������������������������226 Mainau Island �������������������� 268 Tübingen �����������������������������226 Reichenau Island �������������� 268 Naturpark Schönbuch �������229 Marienschlucht �������������������269 Burg Hohenzollern �������������229 Meersburg ���������������������������269 Schwäbisch Hall �����������������229 Pfahlbauten �������������������������270 › Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

ELEVATION A45 Bad Neustadt 1800m 1500m HESSE A66 1000m Bad Kissingen 700m Frankfurt- 500m am-Main 300m A7 Schweinfurt Hassfurt 200m B27 Lohr 100m MAINZ Aschaffenburg A70 0 Bad Main River Karlstadt Kreuznach Ebrach A63 A3 B41 Würzburg Prichsenstadt Nahe River Alzey A3 A61 Sommerhausen Iphofen Worms RHINELAND- Ochsenfurt Neustadt Mannheim A7 B470 A6 Bad Weikersheim Heidelberg Mergentheim Bad Neckarsteinach Creglingen Windsheim Schwetzingen Rothenburg Baden-Baden Speyer Sinsheim River A81 ob der Tauber Ansbach Good-looking, A5 good-living spa town (p235) ver A6

A65 Feuchtwangen Dinkelsbühl Ri Karlsruhe Maulbronn A7 F R A N C E Romantic Road Medieval towns, A5 countryside & castles (p126) Iffezheim A8 Nördlingen Karlsruhe-Baden- Mt B25 Baden Airport (660m) STUTTGART Baden- A5 Baden Naturpark Schwarzwald Mitte/Nord A8 B16 Oberkirch A81 Freudenstadt River Danube River Neckar Gengenbach BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Günzburg Rhine A8 B33 Alpirsbach Ulm Hechingen Schiltach Rust Senden B l a c k F o r e s t B300 A81 Vöhringen Krumbach Triberg St Georgen A7 Kaiserstuhl ALLGÄU- (560m) Furtwangen Villingen- BAVARIAN Breisach Schwenningen Freiburg Mindelheim Kirchzarten Titisee- Memmingen Ottobeuren Schauinsland Neustadt B27 (1286m) Schluchsee B31 A7 Kaufbeuren Bonndorf Mainau B317 Singen Naturpark N4 Island Birnau Südschwarzwald Radolfzell B31 Kempten B500 Schaffhausen Reichenau Island Konstanz Lake Rheinfelden River Constance Lindenberg (Bodensee) Rhine Pfronten Immenstadt S W I T Z E R L A N D Freiburg Lindau Mulled wine, gingerbread & Sonthofen ZÜRICH Christmas markets (p248) Oberstdorf Top ExperiencesExperiences ›

SAXONY THURINGIA A72 Mödlareuth 0 50 km 0 25 miles Hof A9 Coburg Kronach Rehau Selb Lichtenfels Kulmbach Münchberg Nuremberg Staffelstein B4 The south’s most Marktredwitz kid-friendly city (p144) A70 Bayreuth Aufsess B22 Bamberg FRÄNKISCHE SCHWEIZ Pommersfelden Pottenstein A93 Gössweinstein B470 Plzen Forchheim Pegnitz Weiden FRANCONIA A73 A9 B299 B14 Erlangen Eckental Munich Fürth Hersbruck Sulzbach- Rosenberg B22 Explore Bavaria’s exciting Röthenberg Amberg capital city (p42) Nuremberg A6 Schwabach Feucht Schwandorf C Z E C H B2 B20 A6 Cham im Wald Roth Neumarkt Burglengenfeld R E P U B L I C A3 Bayerisch Gunzenhausen Eisenstein A9 Bodenmais Nationalpark B446 Weissenburg Regensburg B A Zwiesel Bayerischer Wald V A R (Bavarian Forest) B13 Naturpark A3 I Regen Treuchtlingen A Altmühltal N Frauenau Solnhofen Eichstätt Kloster F Grafenau B2 Weltenburg Straubing O Plattling Deggendorf R Harburg A93 E Ingolstadt Dan S Donauwörth EASTERN BAVARIA B8 ube T Neuburg B15 A92 Landau River an der Donau B2 Dingolfing Vilshofen Schrobenheisen River B20 B300 B301 Passau

Lech River Landshut Moosburg B12 Gersthofen Aichach A9 Vilsbiburg B388 Pocking Freising A92 Eggenfelden Augsburg Neusäss Munich International Friedberg am Inn A U S T R I A Airport Mühldorf Königsbrunn Dachau Braunau Bobingen Schleissheim Altötting Fürstenfeldbruck Salzburg Schwabmünchen MUNICH Visit Mozart and Maria’s B15 Wasserburg B20 Alpine home (p187) Landsberg A96 Salzach Ammersee Andechs River Seebrück Diessen Pöcking River B17 Inn Chiemsee Starnberger See Prien Schongau Bernau A8 Salzburg Peissenberg A95 Bad Tölz Reit im Bavarian Alps Tegernsee Staffelsee Murnau Winkl Outdoor frolics amid Füssen mountain peaks (p108) Kochelsee S Forggensee P L A Königssee Alpsee Garmisch- B2 N Schloss Neuschwanstein Nationalpark Partenkirchen I A A U S T R I A A R Explore the world’s most Berchtesgaden Zugspitze B A V famous castle (p109) (2962m) Mittenwald AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Marc Di Duca Coordinating Author, Munich, Bavaria From a library job in the Ruhrgebiet during that summer of ’89 to scrambling around the Alps for this guide, German and Germany have been with Marc throughout his adult life. A well-established travel guide author, Marc has explored many corners of Germany over the last 20 years but it’s to the quirky variety and laid-back openness of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. When not eating snowballs in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, brewery hopping in Bamberg or pedantically correcting railway museum staff in Nuremberg, he can be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with his Kievite wife, Tanya, and their two sons. Munich, Bavaria and the Black Forest is Marc’s 22nd Lonely Planet title.

Read more about Marc Di Duca at: lonelyplanet.com/members/madidu

Kerry Christiani Stuttgart & the Black Forest, Salzburg & Around Having lived for six years in Germany’s Black Forest, Kerry jumped at the chance to return to her second home – and family – to write her chapters. Cycling around Lake Constance, road-testing Black forest gateau in Triberg (it’s a hard life) and going behind the scenes to discover the truth about the von Trapps in Salzburg kept her busy for this edition. Kerry has authored some 20 guidebooks and frequently contributes to print and online magazines, including Olive, Lonely Planet Magazine and bbc.com/travel. She tweets @kerrychristiani and lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com.Kerry also wrote the Outdoor Activities, Landscapes & Wildlife and Food & Drink chapters.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 4th edition – March 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 409 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 27

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a aries lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Würzburg •# CZECH

REPUBLIC É É

•# Nuremberg Rothenburg •# ob der Tauber

Naturpark Altmühltal FRANCE ÷# É

GERMANY É

•# Munich Freiburg

•# É

Schloss É Neuschwanstein •# Lake Constance •# (Bodensee) Lindau AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND

Ten Days Southern Germany Highlights

Kick off your south German odyssey in Munich where three days is barely enough time to sample the Bavarian capital’s museums, nightlife and celebrated brews. A short hop north by train brings you to Nuremberg, the bustling capital of Franconia and a major draw for fans of both dark tourism and dark beer. Another train, another historic city, this time university town Würzburg where fine wine has flowed for centu- ries and the prince-bishop’s residence constitutes one of Bavaria’s most impressive palaces. You’re now at the northern terminus of the Romantic Road, which runs south for 350km. The most engaging stop along the route is Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a labyrinth of me- dieval streets and lanes with heaps of eye-candy architecture. The Romantic Road ends at the gates of Schloss Neuschwanstein, Bavarian King Ludwig II’s fairytale pad and one of the world’s most iconic 19th-century follies. Perhaps stopping off at Lindau on the shores of Lake Constance on the way, next stop is Freiburg in the , where you can follow a tour of the mammoth Münster with a slab of the famous local gâteau. 28

GERMANY •# Munich PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Chiemsee É Starnberger See Prien #• É Salzburg •# Bad Tölz •# TNRARIES ITINER

É

•# É Berchtesgaden •# Oberammergau

AUSTRIA R Zugspitze (2962m)

Ten Days Munich & the Alps

The following itinerary can be tackled as a point-to-point trip or as individual day trips from Munich; the bracing air, cobalt skies and glassy lakes of the German Alps are easily reachable by train from the Bavarian capital. Beginning in Munich, you’ll need at least three days to cover the essential viewing in this vibrant metropolis, perhaps reserving a bit of time for a spot of shopping and to visit some of the city’s lesser known sights such as the Olympiapark and BMW Welt. If there’s time, make a dash on the S-Bahn for gobsmackingly beautiful Starnberger See to enjoy a relaxing stroll along the pebbly shore. Pretty Oberammergau, famous for its once-a-decade passion play, is just over two hours (with changes) on the train from Munich’s Hauptbahnhof and makes a superb base for visiting King Ludwig II’s Schloss Linderhof, an easy going 12km hike. Then it’s time to stand on the roof of Germany: the Zugspitze above Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the Bundesrepublik’s highest peak. If you don’t have your own wheels you’ll have to back- track all the way to Munich to reach the pleasant spa town of Bad Tölz, the heart of the Tölzer Land and home to Alpamare, the region’s best water park. Heading east, more train connections will have you on the shores of the Chiemsee in no time. Water sports are one of the big draws here, though most come to ogle at another of Ludwig II’s palaces, Schloss , set on an island (the Herreninsel) in the lake and accessible by ferry from the town of Prien. After a day of messing around on the wasser, it’s back into the moun- tains, this time the ranges around Berchtesgaden in Germany’s extreme southeastern tip. Drawing in many visitors is the area’s intriguing Nazi history, particularly Hitler’s mountain perch, the Eagle’s Nest, now a seasonal restaurant. For an equally photogenic escapade, take one of the electric boats from Berchtesgaden along the stunningly picturesque Königssee, surrounded by the Berchtesgaden National Park. From Berchtesgaden it’s a short bus ride across the border into Austria and a day or two of Sound of Music–mania in achingly beautiful Salzburg.

29 É •# •# Stuttgart Baden- Baden FRANCE

É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# Freudenstadt É

Kinzigtal •# É GERMANY

•# Triberg É

Freiburg ARIES ITINER •#

Titisee É

•# Lake Constance Konstanz (Bodensee)

SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA

One Week Stuttgart & Black Forest

Begin with a couple of days exploring the galleries, stately plazas and vibrant night- life of regional capital Stuttgart. High on your agenda should be the city’s regal heart, Schlossplatz, the Staatsgalerie’s art treasures and evenings spent sampling lo- cal rieslings in a Weinstube (wine tavern) or hanging out in Theodor-Heuss-Strasse’s lounge bars. Car fans should race to the space-age Mercedes-Benz and Porsche museums. On day three, head west to Baden-Baden, a swish art nouveau spa town picturesquely nestled at the foot of the Black Forest’s -cloaked hills. Here you can wallow in ther- mal waters as the Romans once did, saunter through the sculpture-speckled Lichtentaler Allee gardens and try your luck in the ever-grand casino. Day four takes you south along the serpentine Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse, or B500, with tremendous forest and mountain panoramas at every bend. Stop to glimpse Germany’s largest square in Freudenstadt on your way to the curving Kinzigtal, the prettiest valley in this neck of the , with its orchards, vineyards and cluster of half-timbered villages waiting to be ticked off like rosary beads. Your fifth day takes you to the Black Forest’s most storied town, Triberg, where Germany’s highest waterfall flows, the world’s biggest calls, and Claus Schäfer bakes the best black forest gateau using the original 1915 recipe. Work off the cake with a walk or cross-country ski in the wooded heights of Martinskapelle or Stöcklewaldturm. A scenic hour’s drive from Triberg brings you to the sunny university city of Freiburg, close to the French border. Spend the day absorbing its easygoing flair in the Altstadt’s quaint lanes, watched over by a monster of a medieval minster. Wind out your final day by the lake. Swinging east brings you to forest-rimmed Titisee en route to the watery expanse of Lake Constance, ’s third largest lake, flanked by quaint villages, vineyards, wetlands and beaches. An afternoon in Konstanz is just long enough to get a taste of this Roman-rooted city, where the historic alleys of the Altstadt wend down to a relaxed lake- front promenade. 30

•#Coburg Romantic Road É Nuremburg & Franconia É •# Bayreuth Würzburg •# Bamberg CZECH

•# REPUBLIC É É GERMANY É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# Nuremberg Rothenburg •# ob der Tauber É Altmühltal Nature Dinkelsbühl •# Park É ÷# FRANCE Nördlingen •# Harburg •# •#

TNRARIES ITINER Donauwörth É

Augsburg •# É

Schloss •# Neuschwanstein SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA

One Week One Week Romantic Road Nuremberg & Franconia

The Romantic Road begins its 350km With the exception of the Naturpark way through Bavaria’s western reach- Altmühltal, this itinerary is best tack- es at Würzburg where you should led as a series of excursions from Nu- take at least two days to tour the remberg, using Bavaria’s excellent impressive Baroque Residenz and sample railways. The lively capital of Franconia has the wines produced within view of the city bags to see and do – including the Nurem- centre. From here carve your way south to berg trials courtroom, the Germanisches magical Rothenburg ob der Tauber where Nationalmuseum and the Deutsche Bahn you can lose yourself in the tangle of medi- Railway Museum – and an embarrassment eval lanes and celebrate Christmas every of eateries to choose from when you return day. Perhaps with a stop-off at Feuchtwan- from exploring the region. A close second in gen, your next destination is quaint little Franconia’s pecking order is Unesco-listed Dinkelsbühl, a medieval gem ringed by a Bamberg, a confusion of ancient bridges, complete set of town walls. More medieval winding cobbled streets and riverside cot- defences ring Nördlingen, a less touristy tages, the air perfumed by numerous brew- but equally attractive stopover. Then set eries producing the town’s unique smoked aside some time to check out the storybook beer. An hour’s train ride brings you to Bay- castle guarding the half-timbered village of reuth, famous for its annual Wagner Festi- Harburg, and to stroll through twee Don- val but a pleasant place to stroll any time of auwörth before hitting the energetic city year. Around 100km north of Nuremberg, of Augsburg. Countless churches grace the Coburg is memorable for its fortress, its Romantic Road but, to Augsburg’s south, the British Royal family connections and the one packing the mightiest punch is the lumi- longest sausages you’ll ever eat served in the nous Wieskirche. Contemplate King Ludwig smallest bread buns. Round off your time II’s flights of fancy at his whimsical castle, in Franconia with a hike, bike or canoe trip Schloss Neuschwanstein, where Germa- (requiring more time) through the glorious ny’s most popular tourist route comes to a Altmühltal Nature Park. fittingly fairytale climax. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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