Neglected Landmark Hotel Awaits Its Rebirth

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Issue No. 264 Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W NEGLECTED June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

LANDMARK page 5 HOTEL AWAITS conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party ITS REBIRTH E Once a glittering haunt for

Yugoslavia’s pre-war elites, the Hotel Friday • June 13 2008 Bristol has fallen on hard times, becoming home to displaced families THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED who now face eviction – while mystery on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. lingers over the building’s fate. T

Ivana NIKOLIC

n a cold but sunny But today, there is a padlock on the November morning, main door. The dirty windows reveal nothing indicates only a glimpse of empty halls, a bar and that a beautiful old a restaurant. building on Bel- Owned by the Serbian government grade’s busy Karad- and run by the Defence Ministry, the Ojordjeva street was once the city’s most hotel officially closed on August 28. prominent hotel, hosting a galaxy of Media reports say it will become part Yugoslav and international celebrities. of a huge city gentrification project, of Built in 1912, the Hotel Bristol sur- which the controversial Belgrade Wa- vived two world wars, welcomed sev- terfront is part – but there has been no eral members of the Rockefeller fam- official confirmation of this. ily and served as temporary home to Despite rumours that the hotel is to dozens of Yugoslav army families dis- be completely restored, there is no sign placed by the wars during the 1990s. of reconstruction. The run-down build- Its commercial days long over, the ing stands still. Serbian Defence Ministry used it as one Despite the official closure, however, of several military institutions from the the Bristol is not entirely empty. 1960s. Part of it was reserved for the families of Yugoslav army members. Continued on page 2

Built in 1912, Hotel Bristol survived two world wars, but now its fate is uncertain. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA Continued from page 1 United in Neglected Landmark Hotel 1918, Serbia, Awaits its Rebirth Montenegro

hile the 60 ho- tel staff have all been trans- Far Apart in ferred to other Defence Min- istry facilities, Waround 15 families – who were told in 2018 the 1990s that the hotel would be only a temporary solution – still live there. Recently their water supply and Relations BALKAN ASSANGE heating was cut off, which many of them see as pressure to leave and ac- between Serbia When Montenegrin authorities an- cept temporary rooms elsewhere. nounced this year that they would “I have no idea what will happen to and its NATO send two military officers to serve with them, and neither do they,” a man sit- NATO’s peacekeeping force in neigh- ting at the reception desk in the part of neighbour bouring Kosovo, Serbia’s outspoken the building occupied by former army defence minister, Aleksandar Vulin, re- members and their families told BIRN. Montenegro torted, “They should ask us first.” Mon- The spacious hall surrounding the tenegro joined NATO in June 2017. ragged desk remains empty and dirty. have grown Then last month, Montenegro voted Next to the huge curtain-less window in favour of Kosovo joining Interpol, overlooking the Belgrade Waterfront, increasingly though the bid was eventually rejected. there is only one table with four, un- The Montenegrin position was widely paired empty chairs. tense around the condemned in Serbia. The man asked to remain anony- Amid the commotion over Interpol, mous, fearing he might lose his job if he centenary of the a suspect on trial in Montenegro over a spoke out. failed 2016 coup plot against the ruling “Many families left after the hotel was unification of the Democratic Party of Socialists walked closed and were given apartments or into the Serbian embassy in Podgorica some temporary rooms,” he explained. two countries at on November 23 and has yet to emerge. “Those still here are those who didn’t Branka Milic, dubbed the ‘Balkan As- want to accept what was on offerered,” the end of World sange’ on social media, holds Serbian he added, looking around, as if checking citizenship. to see whether someone was watching. War One Milic’s lawyer accused the authori- “The Bristol was a temporary solu- ties of waging “psychological violence” tion decades ago, and they don’t want against her, while the Montenegrin For- something ‘temporary’ again,” he con- Dusica TOMOVIC, Maja ZIVANOVIC eign Ministry summoned the Serbian tinued. ambassador to explain Serbia’s position. Vlada Djukic, from the Association of ne hundred years af- Finally, on November 30, Montene- Military Homeless People in Serbia, ac- ter they united in the gro’s parliament voted to annul the cused the Defence Ministry of failing its ashes of the Austro- November 1918 decision by the ad hoc own people. Hungarian and Otto- ‘Podgorica Assembly’ to unify with Ser- He expects even bigger pressures on man empires, and 12 bia, declaring it an act of annexation he remaining “guests”, such as cutting years after they part- by Belgrade and treason against the off the electricity. “If necessary, we will Oed company, the Adriatic republic and deposed Montenegrin monarchy. The stage protests,” he told BIRN. The old glory days of Bristol are long gone and it now inhabited by fewer than 20 residents who are awaiting new housing. Photo: Hotel Bristol Beograd Facebook page its far larger, landlocked neighbour ap- formation of Yugoslavia followed. pear locked in a bitter feud over history, The Montenegrin government had MYSTERY LINGERS OVER direct hands of the RDI, BIRN sent it bian architecture, representing the have insisted that no one will be left on “They will get new flats,” Vesic told identity and regional relations. already banned commemorations of PLANS FOR RENOVATION fresh questions about the future of the mature phase of Belgrade Art Nouveau the street. Serbia’s public broadcaster RTS, but he In the space of a few weeks, leaders the event as an insult to the memory building and its current residents, but – because of which the building was de- “They will all be taken care of. That didn’t specify when and where. of Serbia and Montenegro have ex- of “all those in Montenegro who were Despite reports that the hotel will be- received no answer by the time of pub- clared a cultural monument in 1987. is the attitude of our army, we always “We assume that someone, and we changed harsh words over Podgorica’s killed during the [royal Yugoslav] dic- come part of the Belgrade Waterfront, lication. But those glory days are long gone. take care of our people,” Vulin assured don’t know who, made a decision to support for the international integra- tatorship.” The unification, it says, ef- a giant Emirates-backed project set to As wars raged in the former Yugo- the media on July 17. close the valves, which is why we are tion of Serbia’s former Kosovo prov- fectively led to the “disappearance of occupy the left bank of the Sava river, LONG-GONE GLORY DAYS slavia in the 1990s, the hotel – by now Vesic reiterated Vulin’s words sev- now left without heating,” one resident, ince, its ban on commemorations of Montenegro” as a state. there has been no confirmation about owned by the government and run eral days later, claiming that the state Dragisa Milenkovic, told N1TV, when the 1918 unification and over the refuge Serbia reacted with consternation. the fate of the 1912 estate. The building was first constructed in by Serbia’s Defence Ministry – took in and the City of Belgrade were looking the story about the heating problems granted by the Serbian embassy to an “With that resolution they annulled The Belgrade news website Insajder 1912 to host the Insurance and Credit families of Yugoslav army members for the best solution. broke in mid-November. accused plotter against the Montene- themselves,” said Serbian writer and has reported that the hotel will first Association of the Belgrade Coopera- displaced by the wars. “It seems that we are in an experi- grin government. monarchist Matija Beckovic, whom undergo a major renovation funded by tive, established by the merchant and They were told their stay would be ment where someone is testing how Experts warn a worsening of rela- Serbian and Montenegrin media re- the Belgrade Waterfront – a company rentier Luka Celovic. temporary, but around 15 families re- long we can endure this,” another resi- tions between Belgrade and Podgorica ported was refused entry to Montene- in which Serbia has 32 per cent of the A few years later, it was turned into a main, 20 years after the last conflict dent, Miodrag Kuljanin, added. cannot help regional stability, but ques- gro in early November along with three shares while the remaining 68 per cent hotel and became one of the most pop- ended. In a response to BIRN, the Ministry of tion whether the fallout is genuine or other prominent Serbian figures who belong to Eagle Hills, an Abu Dhabi- ular places to stay and hang out in the Defence said that it had stopped using simply a political performance for do- were due to speak at an event marking based real estate company. blossoming city. LAST GUESTS FEEL the hotel in August, following the deci- mestic consumption. the centenary. But details of this project remain un- It became a true jewel in the neigh- ‘PART OF AN EXPERIMENT’ sion of the government. The same de- Podgorica-based political analyst Vucic, Serbia’s president, accused Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic accused Montenegro of trying to build an Photo: AP Photo/Darko Vojinovic It seems that identity “on some kind of Serbian guilt.” clear. bourhood, which was then called Mali cision, the Ministry added, transferred Vladan Zigic called it a “manufactured Montenegro of trying to build an iden- Plans for the hotel were only men- Pijac, or Little Market, because traders In the following years, the Hotel Bris- we are in an jurisdiction over the hotel to the DRI. conflict”, one in which Montenegrin tity “on some kind of Serbian guilt.” The 1918 unification, he said, is often pending on who is in power in Belgrade in one or another country for starlets tioned once in public, when President from across the region gathered on the tol survived growing competition and As for the residents, the ministry said President Milo Djukanovic gets to take “I’m just waiting for Macedonia to presented in terms that are too simple – are his favourite imaginary opponent, and criminals doesn’t solve the prob- Aleksandar Vucic in July met Moham- small square there to do business. economic crises thanks to its central experiment fewer than 20 people still remained in on his “favourite imaginary opponent” launch an initiative to say that Serbia and lacking in nuance, “but it seems while for Vucic this conflict boosts his lem of organised crime,” he said. ad Alabbar, Eagle Hills chairman. For a while, Mali Pijac was a syno- location and low prices. the Bristol, who had refused to accept and his Serbian counterpart, Alek- committed genocide, and then I’ll have that official Podgorica does this in a dra- role as guardian of all Serbs in the re- Likewise, he said that Serbia’s rul- Alabbar showed Vucic the first draft nym for the entire commercial life of But when BIRN first visited in July, what they were offered. sandar Vucic, can burnish his image as seen everything,” Vucic said in reaction matic tone with unnecessary radicali- gion who are allegedly under threat,” ing party had barely reacted to the project for the Hotel Bristol’s new look. Belgrade. Celovic strove to turn the some employees, who asked not to be where someone It insisted that the loudest opponents guardian of Serbs wherever they are in to the Montenegrin parliament resolu- sation, forgetting that there are many he told BIRN. demarcation of the border between He referred to it as “a masterpiece of area into an elite quarter, which he named, complained that the Defence to the offer of other temporary accom- the Balkans. Around a third of Monte- tion. “None of this is the fault of your Serbs living in Montenegro.” Zigic noted the response of Serbian Montenegro and Kosovo, but was contemporary design, which will com- eventually did. Ministry had neglected it for years, re- is testing how modation were those “who had no right negro’s 620,000 people declare them- or my generation, but everyone thinks On the other hand, some elements in authorities to a spate of underworld kill- incensed by Podgorica’s decision to pletely change the look of this part of The hotel became one of the pre- fusing to renovate or maintain it. to reside in Hotel Bristol in the first place,” selves ethnic Serbs. they can accuse Serbia of something Serbia, he said, “campaign in the most ings involving Montenegrin citizens in send two officers to NATO’s Kosovo the city”. ferred places for the city’s and country’s Back then, all the employees BIRN long we can but it still promised to house them as well. For Bojan Klacar, executive director today.” brutal manner against not only the Belgrade, which saw a spike in 2018 to 19, mission. One of the city’s oldest hotels and elites. It also attracted many foreign talked to were disappointed that the “Due to the bad weather conditions of the Belgrade-based Centre for Free An MP from Vucic’s Progressive Montenegrin state but against the en- according to the Belgrade-based Crime “This again shows that both coun- a declared cultural monument was guests, including diplomats, royals, hotel faced closure, lamenting that a endure this.” and low temperatures, the Ministry of Elections and Democracy, CeSID, how- Party, Vladimir Djukanovic, took to Fa- tire nation and culture.” and Corruption Reporting Network, tries pick their moments when to cre- about to turn a new but completely un- army officers, singers and actors. long era had come to an end. Defence had a meeting with those peo- ever, the spat may have real roots in cebook to brand the Montenegrin gov- Zigic said such exchanges were part KRIK, and Radio Free Europe, RFE. ate the impression of tension.” known page, it seemed. The most famous foreign guests were The fate of the famed hotel has been ple and offered them adequate tempo- the countries’ irreconcilable positions ernment a “dictatorship” bent on the of a “manufactured conflict” that con- Serbian authorities in April an- Besides their paths crossing dur- The Property Directorate of the Re- members of the staggeringly wealthy in further question since the summer, rary accommodation” in military ho- on Kosovo, the majority-Albanian for- “falsification of history”. jured up enemies for the political ben- nounced a ban on entry for Montene- ing regional meetings, Vucic and Dju- public of Serbia, RDI, told BIRN in July Rockefeller family of America – John with some believing that the building tels or other military sites, it added. mer province of Serbia that seceded in efit of Djukanovic and Vucic, distract- grin citizens deemed a potential threat kanovic last met one-on-one in Bel- that the owner of the hotel for now re- in the 1920s, and his son, David, more will be turned into a luxury hotel, while BIRN also contacted Deputy Mayor 2008 and is recognised by Montenegro ‘IMPRESSION OF TENSION’ ing from any domestic difficulties they to national security. Zigic said such a grade in 2013. Another meeting, said mained the Serbian government. recently, in 1979. others await an official statement. Vesic for further information but re- and more than 100 states around the might be having. step was for show. Klacar, “could restore a calmer and After media recently reported that Apart from that, the building was a Both Deputy Mayor Goran Vesic and Miodrag Kuljanin ceived no answer to its queries by the world as independent but not by Ser- Klacar said both sides bore responsi- “For Milo Djukanovic, the Serbian “Anyone with an IQ higher than their more rational ambience to relations,” the building was about to pass into the prime example of contemporary Ser- Defence Minister Aleksandar Vulin Resident of Hotel Bristol time of publication. bia. bility for the rise in tensions. authorities or Serbian nationalists – de- shoe size must know that an entry ban but there is nothing planned as yet. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Private Trolley Buses to be Allowed in Capital Capital Promises Fishing for Media reports say that in the coming months Serbia’s parlia- ment will approve new laws Two Months of enabling private trolley and Inspiration in the tram companies to operate on the streets of Belgrade. Festive Fun “The essence of introducing the private sector into these in brief Belgrade where you can buy gifts, souvenirs or Fasting Season jobs is to reduce the fiscal A whole two months pressure on the local budget, sweets, a novelty this year will be an accelerate infrastructure of concerts, parties open-air cinema, which will be located investments and improve and other events await at the newly-built plateau on Slavija services,” Vecernje Novosti Belgraders and tourists Square. daily quoted the Ministry of Like every year, several events will Infrastructure as saying. alike, the city authorities Current law forbids the private target the city’s youngest residents, in- sector from operating trams have announced. cluding a “Fairytale Square” in front of and trolley buses. The job is the Zvezdara municipality building and handled exclusively by the pub- Ivana NIKOLIC an “Open Heart Street” (Ulica Otvorenog lic transport company GSP. Srca) that is mostly intended for families Deputy Mayor Goran Vesic he now traditional Belgrade Win- on January 1. announced earlier this year ter, Beogradska Zima, kicked off Belgraders and tourists will also have a that the city plans to scrap its trolley buses and replace them Ton December 1 and will last all the chance to enjoy open-air skate rinks. One with 80 electric buses. way to January 31. on Nikola Pasic Square opens shortly, on There has been no further Two months of celebrations include December 15. information about this plan, more than 200 events with around 500 Apart from these events, Belgrade is, Holiday decorations in Belgrade. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic however. Vecernje Novosti hours of programmes, Deputy Mayor as usual, organizing events on New Year’s On January 1, classical music will be Year’s Eve party in front of parliament on meanwhile writes that the law Goran Vesic said, promising “something Eve on the streets of the capital, including performed at the same spot at 2pm. The December 30, with domestic band S.A.R.S will be approved under urgent for everyone”. free concerts. Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra will be and Britons Stereo MCs and Rudimental. procedure. “We have prepared a great programme The Belgrade Festivals Centre, CEBEF, playing with guests including Belgrade The New Year and months-long Bel- Dance Festival that starts on December 1 and lasts until a city-run institution in charge of some of Opera soloists, pop-rock singer Ana Stan- grade Winter events will all take place Promises to Make January 31. During the two months of the most important festival and cultural ic and a children’s choir, Carolija (Magic). as the city undergoes major reconstruc- Waves Belgrade Winter, we have done our best events in the capital, announced the full That evening, another roster of singers tion. to please first our fellow citizens and then list of singers on December 4. will take to the stage, including Monte- The main Republic Square is still being “Waves of the Orient”, a all of Belgrade’s guests,” Vesic said on De- Folk singer Haris Dzinovic, rock band negrin star Senidah, Serbian hip-hopper restored and its former plateau is now a festival of eastern dance, takes cember 4. Bajaga i Instruktori, pop singer Sasa Kova- Rasta, Serbian DJ Gramophonedzie as construction site. place on December 8-9 at New Belgrade’s Student City Cultural Entrance to all the events will be free. cevic and trumpeter Dejan Petrovic with well as a British trio, Disciples. For that reason, the traditional Open Centre. A number of domestic Apart from the festive atmosphere his Big Band Orchestra will all perform on However, no outdoor parties will take Heart Square will not be located there but and international dancers will created by a huge Christmas tree, illu- December 31 in front of parliament, the place on December 31 and January 1. In- at the start of the Knez Mihailova Street conduct more than 40 group minated decorations and street stands, CEBEF said. stead, the CEBEF has announced a New and Obilicev Venac pedestrian zone. and solo performances. The programme kicks off on Saturday at 8pm with a Gala Show and closes on Sunday First Yugoslav King to Get Monument in Belgrade at 8pm with the Closing Night Belgrade’s green markets like Bajloni (pictured) are the best places to find fresh fish. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic Serbian Orthodox Christmas fast, which started on November 28, Photo: Pixabay spectacle. Show tickets cost allows fish, but bars all other animal products. 200 dinars [around €1.7]. For King Alexander I Serbian Presidency, overlooking the the Unifier” for his role in this process, was by a Bulgarian nationalist, Vlado Cher- more information, call +381 61 of Yugoslavia, who monument to Russia’s last Tsar, Nicholas born in 1888 in Montenegro, the fourth nozemski, allegedly working in league Ribarstvo DTD at the Skadarlija market (Bajloni- 80 94 666, or email: wavesofo- II. child of Petar Karadjordjevic (later King with Croatian separatists. The 40 day pre- jeva pijaca) recommends preparing a hearty soup [email protected]. ruled the country The deputy chair of the city assembly, Peter of Serbia) and Princess Zorka of Until now, Alexander has not had a Christmas fast is a great from catfish and carp, which he says are at their Japanese-Serbian with an iron hand Andrea Radulovic, said the the fact that Montenegro. monument or street named after him in best in November and December. If preparing and Festival Hones in until his assassination Serbia was now marking the centenary of At that time, the Karadjordjevic fam- Belgrade. opportunity to get cooking catfish seems daunting, at Ribarnica Zlat- on Vision the end of World War I was a suitable oc- ily was in exile, while the rival Obrenovic The southern city of Nis honoured ko, a store you can find at both at the Kalenic and in Marseille in 1934, casion to honour the late monarch. dynasty ruled Serbia with the support of him with a huge statute in the city’s main serious about exploring Skadarlija markets, you can pick the fish you want, The fifth annual Japanese- is to get a statue in “Erecting the monument to [his father] Austria-Hungary. square in 1939 and Ljubljana, in Slovenia seafood, river fish and have it fried or grilled on the spot, and packaged, Serbian Film Festival returns King Peter I of Serbia, which was unveiled The Karadjordjevics were restored to followed suite in 1940. and then take it away. to Belgrade from December Belgrade. last week in [the northern city of] Novi power after a bloody coup d'état in 1904, But after Tito’s communists took over 6-8 at Yugoslav Film Archives, shellfish menus – so here Sad, and the future monument to King in which both the King and Queen of Ser- Yugoslavia at the end of World War II and DON’T MISS THE MUSSELS bringing a rich film and cultural are our five top tips for the program that focuses on the Alexander, is one of the ways to show our bia were murdered. declared a republic, the monuments to topic of “Vision.” Audiences will Ivana NIKOLIC relationship with our own history, cher- When the Karadjordjevics retook the Karadjordjevic dynasty were mostly de- season. The season for Mediterranean mussels is near- have a chance to see a number ish the culture of remembrance but also Serbian throne, Alexander’s 58-year-old stroyed. ing the end. To get them at their freshest, ask the of movies and exhibitions ity of Belgrade’s Commission to send a message of consistency and father became King. A highly divisive figure, he scrapped fish vendors in the Kalenic market on Wednes- as well as to attend debates for monuments and names of continuity, values, progress and prosper- Alexander became Crown Prince after Yugoslavia’s parliamentary democracy Mitjo VAULASVIRTA days. Mussels make an easy-to-prepare 20-minute discussing vision as a phenom- Csquares and streets at the end ity that King Alexander shared with our his elder brother, George, renounced his in 1929, after which he effectively ruled starter. Cook a handful of finely chopped garlic and enon. Organisers say: “This is the most ambitious install- of November approved plans to erect a people,” Radulovic said. claim to the throne. as a dictator. He drew his main strength ate autumn is the high season for shallots in olive in a deep pot for about five min- ment, content-wise”, adding: monument to King Alexander of Yugo- The decision comes as Serbia marks He fought in the Balkan Wars of 1912-13 from the Yugoslav Army, to which he seafood in Belgrade, as fish vendors utes, add the mussels, 2 decilitres of white wine, 1 “One of the main motives is slavia. also the 100th anniversary of the unifica- that greatly expanded Serbia, and then in had very close ties. cater to those following the 40-day- decilitre of heavy cooking cream, half a decilitre of that, through discussion and The initiative was put forward by Presi- tion of Croats, Serbs and Slovenians in World War I. A new monument to him in Nis was long Nativity Fast – one of the four unsalted butter and a bunch of chopped parsley art, the audience experiences dent Aleksandar Vucic, as a citizen, on one state, Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and He ruled Yugoslavia as Prince Regent unveiled in December 2004, marking the annual fasts observed by Orthodox and salt. Cook covered for about 12 minutes until an incentive and promotes, November 2. Slovenians, which came into existence from 1918 to 1921, when his father died 90th anniversary of the so-called Nis Dec- Christians – with shelves full of fresh the mussels crack open. awakens or extends their own Media reports say Vucic wants monu- on December 1, 1918. It was later renamed and he became King. laration, on the unification of the Slavic Lfish. visions.” For more information: www.jsff.jp. ment put up between the Belgrade as- Yugoslavia. He was assassinated during a state visit peoples in the Balkans, in the First World While you can’t go wrong with those Mediter- EXPLORE sembly building and the building of the King Alexander, also called “Alexander to France in Marseille on October 9, 1934, War. ranean classics, grilled sea bass or steamed sea NEW RESTAURANTS bream, Belgrade’s fish markets and restaurants have a plenty more to offer. If you want a sit-down lunch or dinner, the Here are five tips from Belgrade’s fishmongers homely Vracar-based seafood restaurant Ribolo- Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR and restauranteurs on how to make the most of vacka prica (Petrogradska 18) offers a variety of +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] the shortening autumn days by exploring the specialties during the fasting season. Manager Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight city’s lesser-known culinary offers. Sarela Stanisavgevic recommends carp “cvarci” (fried fish bits), “riblji paprikas” (“fish stew”), and a TRY OUT house specialty, octopus cooked “ispod saca” (“un- LESSER-KNOWN FISH der the bell”). For a slightly more upscale Mediter- HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU ranean dinner, try Konoba Tata Mata (Dalmatin- Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL For fasters and non-fasters alike, November and ska 98). It serves a wide selection of quintessential Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 December are an opportunity to broaden one’s Croatian seafood dishes. HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade palate and explore the selection of fresh fish and Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU seafood in Belgrade. Denis Idic, a fishmonger from TURN BAGELS Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA the vendor Submarine at the Kalenic market in INTO FISHY SNACK CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 Vracar, especially recommends the little tunny Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF (“luc” in Serbian). A tuna fish, which many cooks A small café just named Bagel (Knez Danilova Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE think is undervalued, as it can be turned into juicy 39) is perhaps the only place in Belgrade that Mihajla Pupina 85A KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 oven-cooked steaks with just a splash of lemon puts together a genuine New York-style bagel. Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST and olive oil, or cooked whole with a rosemary Try their take on the classic cream cheese and MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION OF SERBIA and garlic stuffing. lox bagel, stuffed with red onion and capers. HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Trg Republike 5 Alternatively, pick up some fresh sesame seed Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Address: Cika Ljubina 8 MAKE A HEARTY SOUP bagels at Burger House (Milesevska 65 and HILTON BELGRADE Nikole Spasica 3), and make your own breakfast Address: Kralja Milana 35 For those who fancy a taste of something from or lunch bagel with smoked salmon from the the Danube, fishmonger Zdravko Baratula from Kalenic market. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Serbia Aspires to Become Health Tourism Hub The government says Serbia is set to become a key health tourist destination but some practitioners warn obstacles to growth remain.

Mitjo VAULASVIRTA

eople come to us be- cause we are among the best in our field,” says Miroslav Djordjevic,“P a professor of urology and surgery at the University of Belgrade and one of the world’s leading special- ists in genital reconstructive surgery. Djordjevic is referring to the Belgrade Center for Genital Reconstructive Sur- gery – a private clinic whose exper- tise in sex reassignment surgery has Emmanuel Macron’s Armistice Day speech in Paris pointedly warned against the rise of nationalism which it called ‘betrayal of patriotism’. Photo: AP Photo/Gustavo Garello brought the centre international me- dia attention unmatched by any other medical facility in Serbia. Djordjevic leads a team of five sur- geons, himself included, who operate Nationalism is Nationalism on 200 patients each year, 80 per cent of whom are foreigners. “Patients travel here from around the world,” Djordjevic says, adding that while most of the patients are from is Nationalism countries in South-eastern Europe, the clinic has treated patients from Japan, The old nationalist Almost immediately after, at a peace an ethically clean state, a harsh accusa- the principles of sovereignty, free trade, Indeed, it is no wonder that West Bal- North America and even Australia. forum following the ceremony in Paris tion, especially given that 17 per cent self-determination and minority rights. kan nationalisms are ascendant as the Djordjevic estimates that nearly half spectres are back marking 100 years since the end of of Serbia’s citizens, excluding Kosovo However, unlike liberals, nationalists EU seems to be pulling away from the of the clinic’s foreign patients are seek- World War I, German Chancellor Ange- Serbs, do not identify as Serbs. only invoke these sacred principles region, despite the bureaucratic homi- ing sex reassignment surgery, while with a vengeance la Merkel warned about increasing iso- Predictably missing, of course, was when it is the others allegedly breaking lies of its officials about a “clear path for other patients, who range from new- lationism in the current, interconnect- any mention of errors on Kosovo’s them, never themselves. the Western Balkans”. One reason why borns to the elderly, are treated for in the Balkans - to ed world and said she was concerned part, from the failure to stop a particu- Still, although they all fit the same we all placed hope in the West Balkan complex genital deformities and other that “blinkered nationalism may take larly brutal series of attacks on its own basic mould – which explains the re- membership of the EU is that it would surgically treatable conditions. contain them we hold again”. minorities and their heritage sites in cent chummy relations between na- have effectively allowed Greater Alba- “Our patients know that they can Unsurprisingly, a few weeks after March 2004, which left 27 dead and 35 tionalists around the EU against the nia, Greater Macedonia and Greater return home after an operation and must acknowledge these sombre warnings, simmering na- Orthodox churches destroyed includ- EU - every form of nationalism wants Serbia to peacefully coexist with pre- continue living a normal life,” he says, how similar they tionalism in the West Balkans started to ing the UNESCO-protected Our Lady to portray itself as unique. Like one’s Trianon Hungary and all other conti- adding that the centre’s research, inno- boil over. of Ljevis in Prizren, to the more recent beloved nation, one’s own nationalism nental nationalist fantasies. vative techniques and surgical results all are. Kosovo effectively launched a trade decision not to form the Association of is, of course, better than the others: it is However, with Kosovo not even grant- attract foreign patients. war with Bosnia and Serbia by impos- Serb Municipalities, a body that would more humane, more ancient and cer- ed visa free travel and Albania and Mace- While the clinic attracts patients be- ing a 100 per cent tariff on their goods further protect the rights of Kosovo’s tainly more justified. donia not even allowed to start accession cause of what Djordjevic describes as Serbian dentists are increasingly trying to attract foreign patients with their competitive prices. Photo: Pixabay in retribution for its failed Interpol bid, Serbs, as well as ensure their continu- Despite these claims, if the very negotiations, the elites in all countries are its high-end expertise in a niche but while Albania’s Edi Rama again mulled ing links to the Serbian government, bloody 20th century in the Balkans thinking hard about how to satisfy their critical field of surgical medicine, the and, according to the Ministry of Health, bia’s burgeoning medical travel market. is not likely to increase significantly have insurance coverage and are liable Srdjan GARCEVIC the idea of a national union of Kosovo despite an agreement in 2013. taught us anything, it is how quickly for- constituents, and sadly most seem to be Serbian government has plans to make are issued based on the doctors’ medi- Kuljaca began to treat foreign pa- over the next few years. for their own medical fees. and Albania during a joint meeting be- Much more striking than all the ex- mer victims can become cold-blooded turning to old nationalist tricks. the country a hub for foreigners seek- cal qualifications, standardised prices tients 15 years ago, when he first “Serbia is still not a practical or attrac- As a destination for medical travel t the end of 2018, tween both governments in Pec/Peja. pected omissions and emphases, was executioners, and that the gravity and Ironically, a lot of the push to nation- ing medical treatment. for medical treatments and accessibil- launched a website under the domain tive destination for many Europeans,” Belgrade also has to compete with cit- there is no denying Meanwhile, Milorad Dodik, now the sort of universal, template form of depravity of the crimes of nationalism alism in the West Balkans can be at least Medical travel or health tourism is a ity among other criteria – the govern- name “medical tourism in Belgrade”, Kuljaca explains, adding that the high ies like Budapest, which is better con- that nationalism is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s three Haradinaj’s OpEd. While I was reading correlates much more with the power, partly blamed on none other than Mr rapidly growing global market which, ment hopes to bolster confidence in the which provides information about the cost of air travel between Belgrade and nected to most European countries by back on the world presidents, never misses a chance to it, I realised that if you changed all the rather than intent, of the most extreme Macron. It is his stance against “hasty” according to a report published April quality of Serbia’s medical services. prices of dental treatment, travelling, most capital cities in Europe hampers low-cost airlines and, as Hungary is an stage, and with a demand ever greater autonomy for mentions of “Serbia” to “Kosovo”, and nationalists. Indeed, whether it is Mlad- EU enlargement over the next decade last year by the market research agen- Health Minister Meho Mahmutovic accommodation and opportunities for growth in Serbia’s medical tourism in- EU member state, can offer other pay- vengeance. Republika Srpska, the country’s Serb- vice versa, it would have sounded like ic’s forces in Srebrenica in 1995, or Pave- that dampened the region’s EU hopes cy Orbis, was worth 19.7 billion USD in told Ekapija online magazine in August sightseeing. dustry. ment options and insurance coverage. ASince at least 2016, its spectre is no majority entity. one of the typical, one-sided accusa- lic’s Ustase in Jasenovac during World and served to - at least partially - ignite 2016. last year that the government was ex- “Patients send emails describing Serbia’s prolonged bid for European Yet, Kuljaca says patients seeking longer confined to the perpetually The rationale given for escalation on tions the Serbian government regularly War II, or any armed force attacking nationalist fires in the region. Recognising a competitive advan- pecting 100,000 medical tourists and their condition and a panoramic den- Union membership presents another expensive dental procedures like a full “errant” Balkan or Central European all sides is the same: sorting out (ethnic) levels at Kosovo in Serbia’s newspapers. civilians, they all more or less shared The irony is even more bitter when tage because of affordable healthcare earnings of 200 million euros during tal x-ray and I respond proposing a concern for Kuljaca. As Serbia does prosthesis or implants find that prices states. Donald Trump’s overtly nation- grievances, distrust of neighbours and As ever, the defining trope of nation- the same goal of the annihilation of the one thinks that the decision to put a costs in Serbia in comparison to many the first year of certification. Belgrade treatment and price,” Kuljaca explains, not belong to the Single Euro Pay- for dental treatment in Serbia are high- alist “America First” foreign policy is the lack of faith that foreign partners alism is that it is the other people who other side. break on EU enlargement was made EU countries, in June 2018, the Serbian Insight has not been able to verify adding that today foreign patients also ments Area that enables free or low- ly competitive in comparison to EU bulldozing multilateralism on treaties - will protect their interests. are the problem and that your reac- Indeed, recognising the basic same- not for lofty globalist principles, but to ministries of health and tourism began whether these targets have been met, discover his clinic via Facebook and In- cost bank transfers and electronic states, which works to Serbia’s benefit from the Paris climate agreement to the The most remarkable example of tions are always justified due to their ness of nationalisms is probably the appease a local immigration-weary, to issue quality certification to private as the health and tourism ministries stagram, where he uploads before and payments across state borders, many in the global medical travel market. Iran nuclear deal - and threatening to this line of thinking was the recent misdeeds. These days, nationalists, best inoculation against them. It is this and increasingly nationalist, electorate. dental and cosmetic surgery clinics, did not respond to numerous requests after pictures of his patients with his patients choose to carry cash to Ser- “Some treatments may cost ten times escalate the trade war with China. OpEd written by Kosovan Prime Min- except the very proud and powerful acknowledgement of the fact that all which, according to a report published for information. mobile phone. bia to avoid paying further banking less in Serbia than in some EU coun- Thus it is little wonder that French ister Ramush Haradinaj, published on like Trump, even shy away from the nations want to grow and flourish (al- Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a by the World Health Organisation in While the push to increase medical Kuljaca estimates that over the past fees. tries,” Kuljaca says, before again under- President Emmanuel Macron devoted November 28 in the Washington Post. designation and insist that nationalists beit too often at the expense of one an- founder of The Nutshell Times blog. September 2015, are the most sought travel is a recent development, some two years nearly 15 per cent of his pa- Although many European private lining that lower prices alone will not be the most memorable part of his Armi- He not only portrayed the recent (or even fascists) are invariably other other) that led to the creation of great after services among health tourists. medical practitioners have treated for- tients were foreign citizens from the insurers cover medical fees for treat- enough to create growth in the number stice Day speech to nationalism. He did sanctions as just due to non-tariff barri- people – their rivals. institutions like the EU, which provided The opinions expressed in the Com- By issuing certificates – which enable eign patients for several years. Among Balkan region but also from Northern ments customers undertake in another of foreign patients. not mince his words: “The old demons ers Serbia allegedly places on Kosovan Similarly, in their frequent overtures a framework for both mutual under- ment section are those of the authors private clinics to participate in a gov- them is Milan Kuljaca, a dentist and and Western Europe. Kuljaca says he EU country, Kuljaca says this does not “Systemic problems in medical tour- are resurfacing, ready to finish off their goods but went as far to accuse Serbian to liberals at home and abroad, all of standing as well as (less violent) com- only and do not necessarily re ect the ernment programme that promotes owner of a private dental clinic in Bel- is satisfied with the share of foreign pa- extend to non-EU countries like Serbia, ism [remain] and to resolve them, Ser- work of chaos and death.” President Aleksandar Vucic of wanting our nationalists boast about defending petition. views of BIRN. and advertises health tourism in Serbia grade who was at the forefront of Ser- tients at his clinic – a number he thinks where many foreign patients do not bia needs more time.” 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 9 REGION FACES COMMENT About town with… ‘Institutions Don’t Act on Tito’s Back, But Even He Investigative News Reports’ LUKE BLACK

Luke Black (aka Luka This year’s winner Can’t Save Us Now Ivanovic), is a Serbian singer-songwriter, of the Marina Kova- A quarter of a producer and per- former. cev young journal- century after he ist award laments was banished, BREAKFAST the state’s failure to Tito is returning to tackle legal loop- It can be tricky to the city that once start off the day in this holes and potential city full of haste, so I try bore his name. to surround myself with a wrongdoing ex- Montenegro’s calmer atmosphere before head- ing out for daily adventures. I’ve been on the posed by investiga- ruling party is lookout for the perfect spot for quite a while, and was lucky to come across a small café in tive reporters. searching for the city centre called Pretty Ballerinas (Ulica Zmaja od Nocaja 16). new, old heroes to Ivana NIKOLIC Apart from their coffee, which reminds me of coffees from my travels around Europe, they mask everything t was Monday, November 19, and offer healthy meals and breakfast options. Dina Djordjevic was just about to If you wish to study or work, it is perfect for it did wrong. leave the Serbian Centre for In- Dina Djordjevic received the award for stories she has Photo: Courtesy of Dina Djordjevic group meetings, as the tables are a good fit written about Serbia’s state news agency Tanjug. vestigative Journalism Belgrade for books and laptops. Occasionally, if I de- office when the phone rang. But it is not just the authorities who fail She started working as a journalist in cide to go for a bakery, I run to Uzina (Ulica Samir KAJOSEVIC It was a call from Serbia’s Novi to react, she says. Very few media outlets 2015 for Serbia’s Tango 6 civil aviation Brace Jugovica 17) a small store that offers SadI School of Journalism, a civil society are willing to either republish hard-hitting portal, mainly covering developments in interesting pastries and definitely stands arly in the 1990s, a fam- organisation that each year presents its investigative stories or produce investiga- aviation across the world. out, quality-wise, from most other bakery ily friend noted the Marina Kovacev award to the best young tions themselves. Only a week after she started, news chains. small bust of Tito that journalist aged under 30. While her story on Tanjug was widely broke that an army helicopter crashed stood atop our TV set. Djordjevic, 28, soon found out that she quoted, some media outlets used her near Belgrade airport, killing all seven peo- Joking that the late was this year’s award winner. investigation about small hydro plants ple on board, including a five-day-old baby. Yugoslav leader might LUNCH “Of course I was very happy and a big to publish their own reports but “missed Serbia’s Prosecution Office launched a ruinE the picture, he asked my father part of that feeling stems from the fact important information about who gets preliminary investigation and 15 months to remove him. that my colleagues in the newsroom were the money and whether that is problem- later it announced there was no basis for “As a matter of fact, the picture is Taking a break for, in my opinion, the most equally happy. All over the office there atic”. initiating criminal proceedings. Investi- better with him,” my father replied important meal of the day, involves a walk were hugs and congratulations as this is gators found the chain of command had War was knocking on the door if you are settled at the heart of the city. my first prize,” she told BIRN. CENSORSHIP FEARS been broken but determined there was of the Socialist Federal Republic of Belgrade offers a plethora of international Djordjevic received the award for no criminal liability. Yugoslavia. But my old man still be- restaurants that surely match anyone’s taste stories she has co-written with her col- “I think that the media chose [whether A court martial initially punished two lieved that Tito’s legacy would save buds. For me, the aesthetics of the place leagues about Serbia’s state news agency to republish the story or not] in accord- officers in 2015 by denying the possibility the country he grew up in. are as important as the taste of the dishes Tanjug - which operates in a kind of legal ance with their own editorial policies. I of promotion for a two-year period. The I have similar thoughts on my on the menu, so I often return to Little Bay limbo after it was officially shut down in am not sure if it is self-censorship and I sentence was later overturned. mind now, as Montenegro’s ruling (Ulica Dositejeva 9a), a baroque restaurant 2015 - and the country’s energy sector. want to believe there are no direct calls More than three years later, no one has party announces the return of Tito to tucked behind the National Theatre. You Her Tanjug investigation revealed the [from state officials in order to influence ever been held responsible, despite al- Podgorica, the city that once bore his can’t fail to notice its unique, opera-style agency earned around 318,000 euros editorial policy],” she says. leged dubious circumstances surround- name, almost three decades after he interior. The atmosphere is warm with gold (around 38 million dinars) from commer- Her worries and observations are in ing the seven deaths. was vanquished. arches and red theatre curtains. The special- cial contracts with Serbian state institu- line with international and domestic re- Djordjevic says the controversial case After the nationalism of the 1990s, ties are mostly Italian and French. You can tions between November 2015 and the ports on media freedom in the country. awoke her journalism instinct. years of state plunder disguised as also enjoy the musical programs, ranging end of 2017. From the beginning of 2018 This year, Serbia fell 10 places to 76th “I said to my editor: OK, we are a civil privatisation and the murder of the from jazz to opera, and even traditional Ser- to mid-June, the agency earned another on the World Press Freedom Index com- aviation portal covering the aviation in- socialist dream, they are trying to cre- bian singing. You can take in the view from 27,000 euros (around 3 million dinars). piled by press freedom organisation Re- dustry and not politics, but this is a topic ate a better picture on the screen. the theatre booths, smartly placed above Besides, the company was also extra porters Without Borders, which cited an no one can skip. Let’s send a request for It is true that Montenegro’s authori- the entire ground floor. If time is limited, I opt given millions of dinars needed to shut it. “alarming number of attacks on journal- access to information of public impor- ties never gave up on their socialist out for the quick and healthy fast-food store The second story explored how more ists” that went unpunished, “aggressive tance to see what was in the [prosecution] roots; but for decades they did every- Supe i Salate (Ulica Brace Jugovica 3). The than half of the money Serbian residents smear campaigns” by pro-government case so we can tell the story about how thing that their ancestors once fought lovely staff fix up various fresh salads to go. pay for electricity from small hydro media against investigative journalists the chain of command was broken,” she against. They also have numerous homemade soups power plants goes to Serbia’s electricity and “collusion” between politicians and recalls. They swore to be just, but took part that you can also take away. distributor, EPS, and to those small plants media. Even though Serbia’s Information in war; they extolled socialism, while linked to Nikola Petrovic, a close friend of Domestic reports are equally con- Commissioner Rodoljub Sabic ordered pursuing neoliberal capitalism; like Serbia’s President Aleksandar Vucic. demning. According to the Freedom and the Serbian government to grant her ac- a rock star, they followed political DINNER The stories took months and months Control of Media – Journalist Testimoni- cess to the files, it never happened. trends but stole the slogans of others; of hard work but Djordjevic says it paid als survey published earlier this year, 46 “I never managed to turn it into a story… they implemented ideas they once off. She says the prize is a huge motivating per cent of journalists said they personal- but it was at that moment that I realised I opposed. At night, I usually meet friends and we go for force. ly or their newsrooms in general had ex- was really interested in topics that have a In the same vein, the ruling Demo- drinks at bars and cafés in the city centre. “I think it is very important that an in- perienced attempts by state authorities wider significance to the public,” she says. cratic Party of Socialists, DPS, has be- One of my favourite spots to spend the night vestigative reporter got the award as all to influence them. Thirty-two per cent Djordjevic then applied to take part in gun promoting heroes of the social- journalists should be encouraged to im- said they had not. the Serbian Centre for Investigative Jour- Antun Augustuncic’s statue of Tito, like the one in Kumrovec, Croatia (pictured) will be re-erected in Podgorica. Photo: Wikicommons/Amazone7 hours is ShSh Bar (Ulica Knjeginje Ljubice 9) ist part, decades after they tore the a secluded bar owned by local artists. Enter- merse themselves in investigative stories However, despite Serbia’s overwhelm- nalism’s School of Investigative Journal- names of Partisan heroes from state Niksic. Popularly known as the Mon- ative to raise a monument to Yugosla- Nor did he mention the fact that the kanovic’s opponents will applaud his ing the café, you can spot their art displayed – also the ones working in so-called daily ingly hostile environment towards media ism, after which she was asked to work on institutions, street signs and muse- tenegrin Che Guevara, Cupic’s smil- via’s president-for-life. Ivan Vukovic, city authorities would not commis- monument to Tito, but likewise even on the walls and notice the many sculptures journalism,” she says. and especially towards investigative re- an aviation story as she had the expertise ums. ing face and shackled hands pictured the 34-year-old DPS mayor of Pod- sion a new statue but re-erect an old some of his supporters will see that and art works that make every corner inter- But despite the award and the impor- porters, Djordjevic insists she has no fear. needed to report it. At that time, she was And so, 26 years after Titograd be- moments before he was shot dead by gorica, was born four years after Tito bust made by the celebrated Croatian there are fewer and fewer remnants esting and eye-catching. I wouldn’t be able tance of the stories for the public as a “As long as I can prove my story, no one still working for Tango 6 and dedicated came Podgorica, the Montenegrin nationalist Chetniks in 1942 became a died, but said the socialist icon was sculptor Antun Augustincic. It once of Tito’s rule. to choose my favourite thing on their menu, whole, Djordjevic feels that none of them can attack me,” she says, taking a large sip her post-work and free time for the inves- capital is to get a bust of Tito. symbol of Partisan resistance. a great admirer of Montenegro and stood in the yard of a military bar- Gone are the factories, their ma- but I love their hot lemonade with honey and have actually changed anything. of coffee in a crowded café in central Bel- tigative story. Long a hero to older generations, Montenegrin history. The mayor said racks near the river Moraca, but was chinery stolen. On their scattered ginger. If the night is heading in a different “I would be happy if some of my - or my grade. In July 2017, she definitely swapped MONTENEGRIN Cupic is now revered by the young he personally was proud of Tito’s era. removed when Djukanovic rose to remains have been built shopping direction, I go for the raspberry rakija. colleagues’ – stories led to change of prob- As a student, Djordjevic never thought civil aviation for purely investigative jour- CHE GUEVARA too, his face a popular print on t-shirts “Tito was already ready to give the power in the late 1980s and has been malls and apartment blocks with lematic laws or regulations. In that case of becoming investigative journalist. She nalism. for hipsters. Hence how Djukanovic is greatest recognition for the efforts of gathering dust ever since. dirty money. For the best cocktails in town, I head for journalism would really fulfil its role… and hoped to report breaking stories live from “That was my road from Tango 6 to This new era is rooted in an attempt following the trend. Montenegro,” Vukovic said. Vukovic was a toddler when Dju- Montenegrins will lay flowers and Kultura Bar (Ulica Kralja Milutina 4) where I would help fix things but in Serbia there the field for TV news and programmes. the Serbian Centre for Investigative by President Milo Djukanovic to While other Balkan leaders rehabil- kanovic was riding the wave of na- snap selfies at the statue of Tito, while usually go on Friday nights to listen to 1970s are no reactions,” she says. However, it seems fate had a different Journalism, which shows that editors in counter the threat from a new genera- itate Nazi collaborators, Djukanovic SELECTIVE AMNESIA tionalism to power. He condemned a coterie of businessmen will con- and 1980s music, while watching cocktails While stories exposing individual state plan for her. newsrooms should encourage and let tion of opposition leaders after three is betting on a different kind of nos- to oblivion the heroes of socialism in tinue to build empires based on their being made by experienced mixologists. officials or individual private entrepre- After graduating in journalism from their journalists do things that are not decades of rule by the same party talgia, firing up the hearts of former He noted, of course, that Podgorica order to make room for a new cult of ties to Djukanovic. This place does not supply the usual drinks neurs resonate with the public, Djordje- Belgrade’s Faculty of Political Sciences necessarily listed in their day-to-day job and, effectively, the same man. Partisans and offering Tito as a hero was called Titograd for the best part personality, thanks to which his party The picture on the screen might on offer everywhere; each cocktail is special vic says “those targeting [flaws in the] sys- and starting her MA studies, she realised descriptions and which means sending In July, Djukanovic unveiled a statue to their grandchildren. of half a century. He failed to mention has ruled unchallenged for nearly 30 improve for a second, but everything and handmade, which makes the experience tem or problematic laws and regulations she desperately needed a job. After six requests [for access to information of of Partisan war hero Cedomir ‘Ljubo’ One such grandchild, on behalf of that it was his party, DPS, which con- years. else will stay the same, with or with- more of a thrill. never attract the attention of competent months of searching, she finally found public importance] and digging deeper,” Cupic in Montenegro’s second city of his party leader, has seized on an initi- fined the name to history in 1992. Undoubtedly even some of Dju- out our Partisan heroes. institutions.” one. she says. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Belgrade Christmas Insight: Market Boom Sommelier’s Means Array corner of Offers 5A Soba Excellent service, but Corner Wine Forget trekking off only a limited choice of wines, in a stylish, to Germany. The central location.

Western Balkan Pavle GOLICIN region boasts a fine s I was told, 5A Soba selection of its own is supposed to be the Aright place to go out and mid-winter markets have drinks as well as enjoy a nice dinner. A cool combina- these days. tion, I would say, as we decided to check out this recently opened establishment in the Srdjan GARCEVIC city centre. The first impression of the n the past few years, Christmas wine list was that it is almost exclusively focused on do- markets have become a growing mestic wines. Apart from a few trend in the Balkan region, much labels from the ex-Yu republics, Ito the delight of mulled wine one magnum bottle of rosé enthusiasts. Zagreb has boasted the from Provence and inevitable best Christmas Market in Europe for Prosecco, all the other wines three years in a row, surpassing even are Serbian. the German cities that first popularised In total, the list consists of 30 labels. Only seven are available the concept. by the glass, which limits the possibilities for appropriate ZAGREB ADVENT MARKET food and wine matching. 5A Soba has house wines If you decide to visit the Christmas (white, rosé and red), a practice (or Advent) Market in Zagreb, it runs un- I always applaud. In particular, because it has a local wine by til January 6 and is spread around the Temet, an already well-known beautiful city centre. You can ice skate producer from Sumadija/Great at Kralj Tomislav Square by the main Morava region. railway station, or buy local crafts at Ban This house wine is labeled Jelacic Square. There are also frequent “For people like us”, (Za ljude A picturesque town in Banat, Kovacica is famous for its naïve art. Image: Courtesy of Galerija naivne umetnosti (Gallery of Naïve Art) in Kovacica Belgrade extension of Sarajevo’s beloved “4 sobe gospodje Safije”, 5A Soba is a fantastic addition to the city’s culinary scene. Photos: Courtesy of 5A Soba musical performances in the city’s kao sto smo mi), in Serbian, churches and squares, while children which I find a bit pretentious, especially as it is the same will be dazzled by the array of decora- wine sold under the name “Tri tions put up around town. One thing Morave” by the same producer. not to miss is the T&T stand at Kralj In any case, I was looking for Tomislav Square, which sells sarma, Kovacica – Where Locals a white, and this house wine 5A Soba: Room to Get a the beloved sauerkraut-based dish, in was a logical choice. “For peo- a bun. It has been a local favourite for ple like us” or “Tri Morave” is a great blend of three domestic years. For more information and sched- grape varieties, Smederevka Comfortable in ules, see: www.adventzagreb.com Turned Life Into Art (45 per cent), Tamjanika (45 per cent) and Morava (10 per NOVI SAD WINTER FEST cent). This new bar- one of the current trends in bar and res- der, falling from the bone and melting in able and pricy options co-exist nicely The Vojvodina stantin Danil, a famous Serbian painter, When she got her first solo exhibition in found on their website, www.naivnau- It is straw yellow, with the taurant design in Belgrade, introduced the mouth. The delicate carrot and potato on the menu, even though the menu is If you are looking for something a did the paintings on the main altar. Dubrovnik, all her paintings were sold metnost.com. The gallery is located in scented nose of flowers, fennel last year at the nearby Mama’s Shelter. purée added a little sweetness and the not very long. This is actually appropri- and most of all of Muscat grape restaurant hits bit closer to Belgrade, most towns in Besides this church there are also to foreigners who were highly enthusi- a complex with the private studios of Here in 5A Soba, this style is displayed “chips” (salty, crispy pressed skin) added a ate for this type of venue and must have village is famous aromas, which come from aro- the Vojvodina region have a Christ- Serbian and Romanian Orthodox astic about her work. several artists that you can also visit. matic Tamjanika. On the pal- every note right, at its best, with a number of original cus- great contrast. been carefully thought through. mas market on the main square. The for keeping Slovak churches, a Hungarian Reformed She became known as “The mother Apart from paintings, handicrafts are ate, it is vibrant with a pleasant tom-made pieces and just the right ambi- Watercress springs and edible flower We enjoyed our time in 5A Soba. What most opulent is Novi Sad’s Winter Fest, traditions alive – church and a Catholic church, which with 1,000 children”, because she also on sale here, such as painted plates acidity and quite a long finish. from the pleasing ence for a night bar and restaurant. petals sprinkled on the top gave a little we loved most was that they delivered which runs until December 29 (see: all go to show the true diversity of this painted a lot of children. In fact, she had or corn-husk dolls. Fresh and with a lower level of Smooth and funky jazz-fusion music, acidity to the flavour and added a final in literally every segment of the dining www.nswinterfest.rs). The centrepiece and for founding small community. no children herself, but they were her If you have some time left you can alcohol, this wine is the perfect design to the su- balanced lightning and carefully worked touch to the beautifully presented dish. A (and going-out) experience. Being used of the market, which is on the city’s But beyond its diversity, the village is main inspiration in her paintings. She visit the birthplace of one of the great- companion if you are drinking out details, such as the graphic design soufflé-like baked potato and cream mash to trendy bars that serve moderate or more than one glass. main square, in front of the cathedral, a school of local best known for its naïve art. This tradi- even portrayed adults as children – the est scientists in Serbian history, in the perbly executed and the tableware, create a pleasant at- served on the side was not really memo- overpriced food, our experience in 5A The house rosé (a 50-50 is the singing Christmas tree. There, naïve artists whose tion started in 1939 and became more only difference is that she gave them neighbouring village of Idvor, just over blend of Syrah and Pinot Noir) cooking and fine mosphere. Everything is put together se- rable, and not really necessary for this Soba was truly refreshing. That famous daily at 6pm, local children’s choirs belt developed in the 1950s, when several moustaches. Other motifs were winter 12 kilometres away, where Mihailo Id- or the red (a blend of 85 per riously and professionally but feels cozy already complete and well-balanced dish. ever-fresh energy from Sarajevo works out festive tunes. For those seeking a works can still be villagers in Kovacica gained fame by scenes or biblical themes. Her paintings vorski Pupin was born. cent Prokupac and 15 per cent service. and relaxed at the same time. Our dessert, plum crumble topped like magic… wintry romantic experience, there are painting scenes from their daily lives. are colourful, bright, cheerful and opti- A brilliant physicist, physical chemist Merlot), which I have tried on We decided to have a drink to savour with vanilla ice cream and fresh mint 5A Soba operates under the motto “for horse-drawn carriages and carousels seen and enjoyed Naïve art is described as an art form mistic. They represent village life as it and philanthropist, he is most famous numerous previous occasions, this ambiance before getting on with the leaves, was enjoyable, if somewhat people like us” (“za ljude kao sto smo mi”). but not this time, I could also to ride. Those more interested in food created by a person who lacks the for- was then, not so long ago. for inventing long-distance telephony. Duda food. strong and sweet. We are talking about When you put it that way, we certainly today. easily recommend. will be happy to explore the variety of mal education and training that a pro- In 1974 she painted “Children of The village is home to a memorial com- Service in 5A Soba is very A delicious cream of green pea soup a full breakfast-sized bowl of crumble did feel that we were of their kind. But, edible treats on offer, from Hungarian fessional artist undergoes. The scenes the UN” for UNICEF, which was full plex and museum. You can also see his friendly and extremely profes- recent addition to the was a great way to start. This thick and here, with cereal and various nuts… too behind this typically Bosnian, friendly chimney cakes to a local quince-based Fabian VENDRIG in such paintings are mostly innocent of symbols. The same year, UNICEF former school and the church where he sional at the same time. Unlike Belgrade restaurant hearty winter-warming soup came big, even for the two of us. approach stands the fact that this place dessert - kitnikez. and down to earth and often consist printed another of her paintings was baptised. so many cases before in vari- scene, located on a served on a contrasted coral pottery The service was spot-on, friendly and supplies all the elements of a fine dining he village of Kovacica, of scenes from daily village life. These “Winter” as a New Year greeting card. If seeing all the art in Kovacica and ous Belgrade restaurants, the prominent spot in plate, covered with milky foam and relaxed, as in a night bar, while efficient experience done in a most professional wine was poured in a glass by BEST OF THE REST about 47 km northeast paintings are known for their colour It was printed 2 million times. Zuza- the science in Idvor makes you hun- Rajiceva Street, bears croutons – a good example how appro- and knowledgeable, as in a formal res- manner. Anyone would enjoy it. the book, i.e. in front of us, with of Belgrade in the au- and liveliness. na died aged 76 in Belgrade and left gry, why not pop into the restaurant the waiter properly showing an interesting, catchy priate presentation can turn a simple taurant. Further to the north, towards tonomous province Two painters from Kovacica, Zuzana more than 1,000 paintings behind her Banatski Salas. Built in typical Vojvo- us the label and explaining the Aname: “5A Soba”, or “The Fifth Room”, in dish into a more memorable one. This is where the premium casual con- 5A SOBA Hungary, Subotica is also organising of Vojvodina, is a very Chalupova and Martin Jonas, were as a legacy. dina style as a “salas”, or farm, it offers wine. The mark-up here is at English. Goats cheese in chia seed crust, cept of 5A Soba is shown off at its best. Address: Rajiceva 12, a market in front of its impressive Art multi-ethnic communi- the first to win international fame. But The memorial house of Martin Jo- specialities from the Banat region in the average level. This bar-restaurant comes as an ex- served with baked beet purée, red onion Knowing how hard it is to find the right Phone: +381 61 1947999, Nouveau City Hall, which lasts until Tty. The last census of 2011 recorded that later on, many others followed in their nas, the other famous naïve artist from which Kovacica is located. The res- 5A Soba sends good vibes tension of a famous Sarajevo restaurant, chutney on the side, and sprinkled with service in Belgrade, this was impressive. +381 11 4013071 January 13. The market will have about the population consisted of Slovaks [41 footsteps. Some of their paintings are Kovacica, can be also visited in the vil- taurant is close to the Tamis river and and serves drinks and food called “4 sobe gospodje Safije” (Mrs Safi- watercress, was excellent – an innova- We noticed that the span of prices on Price Guide: 1,800-3,000 dinars per with attention to detail. Al- 90 stands and sell local handicrafts as per cent], Serbs [34 per cent], Hungar- on display in museums all over the lage. The house contains about 150 of also offers accommodation. It can be ja’s Four Rooms). The venue advertises tive combination of ingredients that the menu was unusually wide – afford- person for three courses without drinks though the focus here is not on well as local delicacies, with a strong ians [10 per cent], Romanians [7 per world, or hang on the walls of private his paintings, but also artworks of other pretty busy, so check beforehand if the wine, more labels would itself as a restaurant and tapas bar with a worked well together. Hungarian twist. cent] and others. collectors. UNESCO added the village artists that he collected. You can also everything is not booked up (www. indeed be appreciated by true premium casual concept. Our second starter was a classic: Festive markets and events in Ser- The Habsburg rulers of Vojvodina to its list of Living Human treasures in see a collection of handmade plates, banatskisalas.co.rs). wine lovers. The sheer size of 5A Soba is pleasing black risotto with octopus, typical of the ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ bia’s smaller towns and cities tend to be settled Slovaks there in the 18th and the 1980s. furniture and Slovak folk costumes. If And if you want to visit an authen- – generous with high ceilings and large Adriatic coast. It was executed well and ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” th less opulent, but some are still worth a 19 centuries, seeing them as hard and Chalupová was born in 1925 in Ko- you wish to visit the memorial house, tic Christmas New Year fair, or “vasar” windows. The interior owes little to the sprinkled with parsley-infused olive oil RESTAURANT KOVAČ visit. On December 8, the town of Vrsac modest workers. Not only did they live vacica, where she attended elementary call their phone number first (+381 13 in Serbian, this year’s village fair is on Basic Info Rating Sarajevo restaurant and is more mature. for a twist. modern ethno restaurant is hosting a “Festive Delicacies” festival, up to that reputation, but they also school. In the 1950s, she started embroi- 661 157), because the house opens on December 22, on the main square of Dark colours set the tone for an evening We decided to visit 5A Soba a little past (Praznicne djakonije), where visitors managed to keep their own culture dering shawls and tapestries. When she demand. Kovacica, starting at 1pm. Besides feast- meal or a night out with cocktails, small our usual dinnertime in order to catch Overall GOOD can try local foods and see locals com- alive up to present day. had earned a bit of money from that, The Gallery of Naïve Art (Galerija ing on tasty snacks, you can stock up bites and live music. Turquoise and coral the best atmosphere. This is also why we peting for prizes. Senta, a mainly ethnic After the Slovaks arrived in Kovacica she bought oils so she could start paint- naivne umetnosti, Masarikova 65, Ko- on some authentic naïve art presents Wine selection AVERAGE details catch the eye and contrast with had to compromise and share just one Hungarian town known for its fine ar- in 1802, they transformed it completely. ing on canvas. vacica), which opened in 1955, is the for your friends and family. Wine service AVERAGE the darker tones. main and one dessert. chitecture is hosting a short Christmas Some Slovak homes are still painted or In 1964, she painted her first paint- oldest gallery in the village. It has a Wine pricing €14 - €53 The vibrant colours, use of patterns, Rich, smooth and finely layered in taste, market between December 20 and 23. tiled in the traditional light blue with ing called Mlaćenje konoplja (“Beating wide range of art on sale and on display. For further information about what’s the colourful mural painted over a black aromatic chicken drumsticks with car-

Ruma, in the foothills of Fruska Gora, the name of the family on the gable. the Hemp”). She soon found success The gallery is open from 8am to 4pm on on Kovacica, see also the website of the brick wall and the custom-made chande- rot purée, chicken reduction sauce and Wine and Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 will have a Christmas market from Their Lutheran church in the centre and her work was exhibited in nearby working days and at the weekend from municipal tourist organisation liers all create a lively, dynamic atmos- “chicken chips” were superb. The meat www.restorankovac.com December 23 to January 7. of the village dates back to 1829. Kon- Jagodina and, of course, in Kovacica. 10am to 3pm. More information can be www.took.org.rs. food pairing GOOD phere, with a Latin American vibe. This is was nicely marinated, soft, moist and ten- 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 13 EXPATS' CORNER ARTS

Rada Selakovic’s Legacy at Zepter ‘The Load’ Confronts Serbia Museum

The Zepter Museum (Knez With Horrifying Truth Mihailova 42) is organising Arts in brief an exhibition of the work of the prominent, late Serbian artist Rada Selakovic (1952- 2008) entitled Legacy for the Future. The exhibition opens on December 6 at 8pm with an opening speech by Savo Popovic, and will remain on display until February 10. Entrance is free.

Project Gurdjieff by Opus Neo at Studio 6

Radio Belgrade’s Studio 6 (Hilandarska 2) opens its doors once again to the amazing Opus Neo (Ivana Grahovac – cello, Olivier Maurel – piano), exploring and interpreting works by the famous composer, mystic and philosopher George Gurgieff, in collaboration with Thomas de Hartmann. Opus Neo will be accompanied by Manja Ristic on the violin and Maja Djordjevic’s video art. The concert on December 7 starts at 9pm. Entrance is free upon guest list registra- tion with Studio 6.

Miroslav’s Gospel Slava is one of the most beloved Serbian traditions. Image: Vladislav Titelbach in the National Museum

The oldest illuminated Cyril- lic manuscript, Miroslav’s Gospel, written in the 12th How to Survive a century, will be on display on Friday, December 7 and every Saturday in December, Serbian Slava in the National Museum of Serbia (Trg Republike 1a). For conservation and This iconic day Fabian VENDRIG The most common slavas are St Nich- va, dear host”. Your host will provide Afterwards, your host may serve soup. If preservation reasons, this olas’s Day (Nikoljdan), on December 19, you a seat and you will be welcomed it is a “posna slava”, you will probably get valuable manuscript can only on the calendar n Serbian Orthodoxy, each fam- St George’s Day (Djurdjevdan), on May with zito or koljivo. This is a boiled vegetable and fish soup. After this, the be shown for ten days a year. ily has a patron saint who is 6, St John’s Day (Jovanjdan), on January wheat dish that celebrates the resur- main dish is served. For this, your hosts Tickets for the museum cost passed down from generation 20, St Michael’s Day (Arandjelovdan), on rection of Christ and family ancestors. may prepare roast pork or lamb or an as- of most Serbs 300 dinars (2.5 euros). to generation through the male November 21 and St Sava’s Day (Savin- Besides that, you will get coffee and/or sortment of fish – usually catfish, trout, is a treat not line. Each saint also has his or dan) on January 27. rakija. When everybody is there and carp, pike and other river fish – if it is a her own day. When your family’s It’s not just families that celebrate their you get to know the people around “posna slava”. Of course, your host will Exhibition of Milan Blanusa at Goethe to be missed – saint’sI day comes round, you celebrate own slava. Many Serbian municipalities, you, your host will say a prayer accom- make sure that your glass is always full. Load is based on the testimony of a civilian who drove a refrigerator truck from Kosovo to Serbia in1999. Photo: Still from Load (2018) this day, which is called a slava in Ser- organisations, institutions, companies panied with incense. You should stand Be sure to leave some space for the Institut besides offering bian. A slava is an old tradition and is and professions celebrate them too. The for the prayer and make the sign of dessert. This usually consists of small from Kosovo to central Serbia, where in the embassy of a major European The film has“ had excellent reviews typically Serbian. It is not celebrated in City of Belgrade, for example, celebrates the cross while the incense is pointed cakes and other sweets, served with cof- A movie they were buried in unmarked graves, country. in Serbia followed by very successful Milan Blanusa will be real insight into other Orthodox countries, like Russia or Ascension Day (Spasovdan) as its slava. towards you, and say “Srecna slava,” fee. documenting or destroyed in secret. It is a true story “It is a story about the realisation of and still ongoing festival tour,” Boban presenting his works at the Greece, for example. Normally, the slava is celebrated over thereby wishing the host and his fam- After that, you are free to go home, or but one that many in Serbia still find involuntary involvement of one indi- Jevtic, director of the Serbian Film Cen- Goethe Institut Belgrade Serbian tradition The slava is a very important holiday two or even three days. This is because ily a happy slava. You will be also of- stay and have more drinks. But be sure one of the most hard to face. vidual, but we also wanted to make it tre, FCS, who supported the production (Knez Mihailova 50) from and life. for most Serbs and by law in Serbia you the host cannot welcome all the guests fered a sip of wine. After this more for- not to behave like the guests of “Ivko’s bestial crimes of The movie goes back to the spring of a moment of realisation on a collec- of the film and was present at its world December 13 to February have the right to take the day off, as if it in one day for practical reasons. As a for- mal part of the ceremony, you can start slava”. This term is very widely under- 1999, during the height of Kosovo war, tive level,” Glavonic said, after his film premiere in Cannes, said. 2. The exhibition entitled were a public holiday. Those who do eigner, if are invited to a slava it means eating and drinking. stood, thanks to a famous movie from the Kosovo war when hundreds of bodies of dead Al- premiered at one of region’s most pres- “Our support for the film was not "Where are you with your not celebrate a slava may take Catholic that you have been accepted into the Firstly, you will be served slavski 2005, “Ivkova slava”. Based on a book banian men women and children, but tigious regional movie festivals, in Sara- a part of any special strategy; we are art, colleague?" features Christmas or a Muslim religious holiday circle of family of friends of the person kolac, a ceremonial loaf baked on the from 1895 by the famous writer Ste- has premiered in also some unknown Serbian soldiers, jevo. determined before all else to have as paintings and prints, looking off instead. who invited you. You will be invited night of the slava. In the morning of his van Sremac, this is a comedy set in the were transported to several locations Load made its debut earlier this year many high-quality and successful pro- In 2014, UNESCO added the slava to its only once for the slava, however. By the or her slava, the host will normally visit southern city of Nis at the start of the Serbia – and won in central Serbia. in May, at the Directors Fortnight sec- ductions as possible, regardless of their back at the revolutionary List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of time next year’s day arrives, you should a church and attend the service to get 20th century. applause for its In a former police camp, outside tion of the Cannes Film Festival, and topicality”, he said. spirit and art of 1968 and its Humanity. A Serbian proverb describes consider yourself already invited and the bread blessed by the priest. On the It is highly recommended viewing. It Belgrade in Batajnica, more than 700 was recently awarded by the jury of the He added that the FCS has “special- effects, if any, on improving the importance and meaning of the feel obliged to come. table you will also see a slavska sveca, features a man called Ivko, who is cel- bravery. of these bodies were buried in an un- Zagreb Film Festival. ised competitions for repertoir films and the conditions of humankind. slava succinctly: “Where there is slava, The slava is fun to witness and join which is a ceremonial candle, lit during ebrating his slava with his family and marked grave, 75 of them belonging to A review published by Variety Maga- productions that cover topics of nation- Entrance is free. there is a Serb.” in, as a typical Serbian traditional feast the whole day of the slava. friends, who get drunk and do not leave Milan RADONJIC children. zine described it as the harrowing work al importance” designed to both “bring with a personal touch. The question, of After the slavski kolac comes the his house at the end of the first day. He Other mass graves of the dead Alba- of an “impressive new filmmaker, illu- back audiences to cinemas and also in- Miniature 3 at course, is: what can you expect? There starter. To the foreigner this will look can’t tell them to go, as this will bring him n old but precise defi- nians have been found in other loca- minating a painful truth that inculpates centivise authors to create project that ULUPUDS Gallery is no easy answer to this. The slava is like the main course, but in fact it is only misfortune. The guests use the full three nition of journalism tions, in eastern Serbia, near the town more of us than we’d like to believe: ig- will tackle issues of national history.” celebrated differently in several parts of beginning. The day of the slava will de- days of the slava to enjoy the food, drink best describes it as of Kladovo, and in the south, near the norance of atrocity, whether it’s by an The Load is currently screening in The ULUPUDS Gallery (Uzun Serbia, not to mention in Serbian parts termine whether it is celebrated “posno” and hospitality of their host. Over the writing about some- town of Raska. effort, or inadvertent, does not make Belgrade Cultural Centre in Kolarceva Mirkova 12) is organising the of Bosnia and Herzegovina. or not. “Posno” means you will not eat three days, these drunken guests cause thing that certain Load is based on the testimony of you innocent of it.” Street until December 12. After the third exhibition of miniatures, Generally, you should expect a lot of any meat or dairy products (it actually various amusing problems. At one mo- people want to keep a man now living under protection in Following its recent premiere in Bel- screening on December 11, the audi- Miniature 3, with drawings, eating and drinking – so be prepared. It means “fasting”) but fish and vegetable ment, Ivko even calls King of Serbia to Asecret. But The Load, a film by director Western Europe who, as a civilian, was grade as one of the leading titles at the ence will have an opportunity to meet watercolour paintings, prints, is the custom to bring the host a present. products instead. If the first day of the resolve them. Ognjen Glavonic, shows that it is possi- told by military officers to drive a refrig- Authorship Film Festival, the direc- and discuss the film with author Og- Normally, people bring coffee, choco- slava falls on a Wednesday or Friday, it When you leave – hopefully not af- ble to do this and create exceptional art erator truck from Kosovo to Serbia, not tor, leading actor Leon Lucev, and the njen Glavonic. The Load will also be collages, mosaics, ceramics late, wine or rakija, but if you want, you will be a “posna slava”. One exception ter three days, like Ivko’s guests – you at the same time. knowing what was inside. whole crew received a five-minute ova- screened in Fontana cinema in Novi and sculptures created by can bring something more practical that to this is Sveti Nikola (St Nicolas), on should thank your host and hostess for The film tells a story about one of the More precisely, the film focuses on tion. The Load was pronounced best Beograd from December 6 and soon members of the Serbian As- you think the host would appreciate. December 19, which is always a “posna the celebration. most bestial crimes of 1998/1999 Ko- his last drive, when he finally realised film of the Authorship Film Festival and after, in December it will reach audi- sociation of Fine and Applied When you arrive, you greet your slava”. Besides enjoying delicious food and sovo War, when Serbian security forces that what he was transporting was awarded with prize Aleksandar Sasa ences in Krusevac, Novi Sad, Nis, Backa Arts. The exhibition will open host with the words: “Srecna slava, The starter can consist of ham, salami, drinks, slava will give you some unique organised the clandestine transport of human corpses. He then decided to Petrovic, named after one of the best Palanka, Vrbas and other towns and cit- on December 18 for two domacine,” which means: “Happy sla- cheese and/or eggs and various salads. insight in the Serbian society. the bodies of dead Albanian civilians reveal this crime, and seek protection Serbian Film directors of 20th century. ies in Serbia. weeks. Entrance is free. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 15 GOING OUT WHAT'S ON Top Bands Start Filling CLUBBING Serbia’s 2019 Calendar AND LIVE MUSIC

From The Cure The legendary English band is the longest-standing Serbian rock fests, scheduled to play in Serbia for the first in 2016. FRIDAY DECEMBER 7 • DJ Lea, Prema, Architect, FRIDAY DECEMBER 14 to Uriah Heep time in July, celebrating 40 years of Uriah Heep will be promoting their Freestyler Winter Stage, and many others, music around Europe. new album Living the Dream, but fans can • Cuka Fest, Festival of Jazz and Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm • Covek Bez Sluha, Dom Omladine, What makes this event even more naturally expect all the hits, including, but Rock Music, different locations, Makedonska 22, 9pm KOLARAC 2019 is shaping special is that The Cure are very not limited to, big-time arena rockers like 7.30pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 8 • ElektroVirvel, Elektropionir, exclusive and only plan to play a handful “Easy Livin’” and “Lady in Black.” • Mando Diao, Sports Hall Ranko Cetinjska 15, 9pm of festivals next summer. For those more into romance than Zeravica, Pariske komune 20, • Atheist Rep, SubBeerni Centar, • Jorgovani u Beogradu, SubBeerni PROGRAMME up nicely to be 8.30pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm centar, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Band leader Robert Smith has rock, two excellent concerts are coming • Vojko V, SubBeerni Centar, • Cuka Fest, Festival of Jazz and • Saht + Nothing Sacred, Club Fest, another excellent personally chosen Exit, probably the to Belgrade in 2019 that should please Cetinjska 15, 9pm Rock Music, different locations, Gradski park 2, 10pm most famous music festival in the region, just about every generation of lovers. • Opus Neo, Radio Belgrade/Studio 6, 8.30pm • Jennifer Cardini, Grad Cultural year for live as one of the few spots where the band British sensation Tom Odell is coming Hilandarska 2, 9pm • BandX, Club Fest, Gradski park 2, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm music . will play a full headliner set. to the Ranko Zerevica Sports Hall on • Nezni Dalibor, Elektropionir, 10pm • Setaoc Mass, Yan Cook Live THURSDAY, DECEMBER 7 FRIDAY, DECEMBER 14 One “first time ever in Serbia” event February 12. This will be his first time back Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Manivi, Soul Society, Knez / Music Reactions Event, Concert Hall, 8pm that Belgrade will be able to brag about in Serbia since playing the Exit Festival • Bane Gluvakov Trio, Club Fest, Miletina 2, 10pm Drugstore Club, Bulevar Despota Concert Hall, 8pm Gradski park 2, 10pm • Amy’s House, Strogi Centar, Stefana 115, 11pm Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestara Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra David GALIC next summer, however, will be the in 2015. Needless to say, his profile has • James Brown Belgrade Tribute, Gospodar Jevremova 42, 9.32pm • Forward Transition w Jackie & Freedom Ascension Gabriel Feltz appearance of legendary Australians grown tremendously since then. Soul Society, Knez Miletina 2, 10pm • Connection w/ Vlada Janjic, Thinker, Club 2044, Usce bb, 11pm Conductor: Conductor: Cristian Mandeal ecember is a good time Dead Can Dance. Furthermore, Italy’s biggest pop star of Soloist: Barnabas Kelemen, violin Soloist: David Fray, piano • Sanda & Shoica, Ciglana, Slanacki Alexandar Ivkovic, Mihajlo & • Scandinavia Night: The Drawing Programme: L. van Beethoven, C. Saint- of the year to reflect on They will be in Serbia for the first time all time, legendary international crooner put 26, 10pm Doo, Grad Cultural Center, Brace of the Three, Imago CUK, Programme: A. Part, F. Chopin, Saens, L. Janacek F. Delius, R. Strauss the passing year and on June 28, playing at the Sava Centar. Eros Ramazzotti, will be coming to the • MMF x WCS | Rainer Trüby // Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Decanska 14, 11pm Belgrade Philharmonic Production: Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Compost Records (Freiburg, • Mirko & Meex and PREMA • DOT x sotsu: vlf (RO) x Milovan Orchestra look ahead to what’s on Tickets are already on sale and moving Stark Arena on September 24, promoting For more information contact Germany), Grad Cultural Center, • SATURDAY FEVER • RnB, Stojanovic, Dot, Francuska 6, 11pm For more information contact the horizon. quickly, so don’t wait until next year to his latest album Vita Ce N'e. +381 11 26 30 744 Brace Krsmanovica 4,11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm • BIKINI, Club Secer, Svetogorska +381 11 26 30 744 The year 2018 was a reserve one. Another “first time in Serbia” event • Orient Party, Polet, Cetinjska 15, • Genesis & Government4000, 17, 11pm SATURDAY, DECEMBER 15 strongD year for concerts and live music Dead Can Dance were formed in to look out for is audio-visual magician 9pm Club Secer, Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Beyond 2000, Strafta, Admirala SATURDAY, DECEMBER 8 events in Belgrade of all varieties. 1981 in Melbourne by Lisa Gerrard and Schiller, who is playing the Ranko • All The Feels & Love is • VATRA, Drugstore Club, Bulevar Geprata 14, 10.30pm Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm Brendan Perry, who are still the duo From heavyweights like the Scorpions Zerevica Sports Hall on January 18. Love, Tranzit Nouveau, Brace Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • DJ Lea, Prema, Architect, Jelena Jovovic & jazz junction Nexus, multimedia project and Bryan Ferry rocking the Stark Arena responsible for the band’s ever-shifting Any fan of proto-electronic music Krsmanovica 8, 10pm • Putnik with Soyoon (KR), Freestyler Winter Stage, Admission: 900, 1000 dinars Nenad Jelic, vocals, percussion to a slew of great underground rock sound to this day. like Tangerine Dream and Kraftwerk • Phillie P, Kaldrma Bar, Skadarska Schwabe & Bagheera, Club 2044, Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm Aleksandar Sandorov,piano and metal acts and big underground A band that no one has ever truly who loves bombastic visuals and lights 40, 8pm Usce bb, 11pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 9 Filip Krumes, violin • Disco Not Disco presents Body • Retro VS Komerc NIGHT Vol 2, SATURDAY DECEMBER 15 Composer: Nenad Jelic techno names stopping by at the now classified, Dead Can Dance have always accompanying their music won’t want to Hammer 10 Years Bash, Drugstore Imago CUK, Decanska 14, 11pm Concert Hall, 11am Admission: 1200,1800, 2400 dinars famous Drugstore venue, there’s been no experimented with new sounds, derived miss this. Club, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, • Cherry On Top, Dot, Francuska • The Strange, Grad Cultural Center, 25th Anniversary of the Workshop for shortage of top-quality live music in the from a variety of cultures, regions of the Fans of indie rock should not miss the 11pm 6, 11pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm piano SUNDAY, DECEMBER 16 Milianka Misevic capital. world and musical epochs. return of Algiers to Belgrade on February • Be Good ( Beat At Joe’s / Southern • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva • Ceuntrion, Elektropionir, Production: Music Centre The coming year looks set to be just On this tour, they will be promoting 18. Soul Festival), Club 2044, Usce bb, 44, 11pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm Concert Hall, 11am Admission free Students concert as exciting, and, while it’s hard to predict their latest album, Dionysus, but as it’s The band, which has been described 11pm • Disco Night, Gajba, Karadjordjeva • The Strange, Grad Cultural Center, Production: Music Centre • Free Psychedelic Friday - Vucko: 44/2, 11pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm Concert Hall, 6pm exactly which bands and acts might stop the band’s first time in Belgrade, expect as a mix of Mike Patton of Faith No More, Admission free All night long, Imago CUK, • Synth City, Strafta, Admirala • IrieFM, Dom Omladine, Choral festoval by, a few big names have already been to hear a fine cross-section of songs, Jon Spencer Blues Explosion and James Decanska 14, 11pm Geprata 14, 10.30pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Singers’ bands and Orchestras Concert Hall, 6pm announced. spanning their almost 40-year-long Brown, will be playing an intimate show • Ribs, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Get Low, Freestyler Winter Stage, • 4th Funk Congress, Top of the Hub “Raspevani dzivdzani“ Romany Dance and Music Festival The biggest concert event of 2019 most career. at Elektropionir. • Neodoljiv & Neumoljiv, Ljubimac, Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm Usce, Bulevara Mihajla Pupina 6/ Admission: 500 dinars Admission: 500 likely won’t take place in Belgrade but in Another legendary rock band coming Tickets for all these concerts, other Cetinjska 15, 8pm XXV, 8pm MONDAY, DECEMBER 10 Novi Sad. to Belgrade in 2019 is Uriah Heep, who than The Cure, are already available • Serious Fun – Lale & Joma Maja, SUNDAY DECEMBER 9 • WAXX TRAX: 5Y /w Conforce MONDAY, DECEMBER 17 With The Cure headlining next year’s will be playing Sava Centar as well on through the Eventim ticketing service. Dot, Francuska 6, 11pm (Delsin, Rush Hour), Drugstore Concert Hall, 8pm • Nouvelle Vague, Hangar, Zorza Exit Festival in Novi Sad, it is going to be February 5. To make sure you don’t miss The Cure, • Vuk Vukosavljevic & IKE • Club, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Concert – 145TH ANNIVERSARY OF Music Gallery, 6pm CITY OF VICE • RnB, Brankow, Klemensoa 39, 9.30pm 11pm hard for booking agencies in Belgrade They’ve been to Serbia before, one of keep your eyes peeled for updates on RACHMANINOFF’S BIRTH Encounter with an Artist Crnogorska 12, 11pm • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, • Kezz (Live set) All night long, Aleksandar Sincuk, piano Jasmina Jankovic, piano to beat the level of excitement that this their highlights being their headlining the Exit Festival’s official website: www. The Cure will perform on July 4 2019 Photo: WikimediaCommons/Momento Mori • Sonja Sajzor's Sugar Pop, Club Nemanjina 4, 11pm Club 2044, Usce bb, 11pm Programme: S. Rahmaninoff Programme: Petar Stojanovic announcement has already stirred. at Exit Festival in Novi Sad. set at the Zajecarska Gitarijada, one of exitfest.org. Secer, Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Azax live + retro set!, Imago CUK, Production: Nova Rasia Production: Music Centre • Nebojsa Intruder & Dooshan, MONDAY DECEMBER 10 Decanska 14, 11pm Admission: 900, 1300, 1600 dinars Admission free Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Cherry On Top, Dot, Francuska • Pirupa, Hype, Karadjordjeva 46, • Vujicic Ensemble, Serbian 6, 11pm TUESDAY, DECEMBER 11 Concert Hall, 8pm Mando Diao Crossover Heroes ‘Born 11pm Academy of Sciences and Arts, • Couple UP, Club Secer, SEDRA Concert Hall, 8pm M.A. Rasinski/Opera in Five Pictures • Iron allniter, Gajba, Karadjordjeva Knez Mihailova 35, 10am Svetogorska 17, 11pm FMU Symphony Orchestra Belgrade Symphony Orchestra Make Debut in Belgrade from Pain’ at Elektropionir 44/2, 11pm • Festove Rocklolije, Club Fest, • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva Production: Faculty of Music and Vocal Ensemble • Beyond 2000, Strafta, Admirala Gradski park 2, 10pm 44, 11pm Admission free Geprata 14, 10.30pm • 3rd Polet Party, Polet, Cetinjska • Get Low, Freestyler Winter Stage, Composer: Miroljub Arandjelović he popular Swedish alternative rock attraction Mando Diao are inding inspiration in various schools of heavy music, Rasinski 15, 7pm Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 12 playing in Belgrade for the first time on December 7. Energy, Dutch band Born from Pain have created a highly Conductor: Radan Jovanović • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan fire and passion – these are the words that Mando Diao use original and punishing signature sound over the Tanja Andrijic, soprano Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 16 Music Gallery, 6pm to describe their creative output, especially their live per- years. Taking cues from funk-thrash legends Ma- Cycle: Music Workshop Natasa Jovic Trivic, mezzosoprano T F Concert of Master Art Academy Vanja Bisercic, tenor formances. rauder, hardcore bands like Earth Crisis and death metal TUESDAY DECEMBER 11 • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, Vuk Zekic, baritone Serbian audiences went crazy for Mando Diao in 2009, after brutal death metal sounds from both early American Production: Music Centre Nemanjina 4, 11pm Admission free Narators: Nebojsa Dugalic the album Give Me Fire! came out, featuring party bangers such and English scenes (think Obituary and Bolt Thrower), • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nebojsa Kundacina as “Gloria” and “Dance With Somebody”. Their performance at the the band has painstakingly crafted a sound that is highly Nemanjina 4, 11pm MONDAY DECEMBER 17 Concert Hall, 8pm Project Organizer: Queen’s Choir Exit Festival in Novi Sad that year left fans in Serbia wanting more, original without sacrifing any heaviness along the way. • We are the 90s, Freestyler Winter Nenad Vasilic Trio/JAZZ Admission: 600, 800, 1000 dinars which is what they’re going to get on December 7. They will be playing at Elektropionir (Cetinjska 15) on Stage, Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Nenad Vasilic, doublebass Marko Zivadinović, accordion The concert at Ranko Zeravica Sports Hall (Pariske Komune 20) Thursday, December 13. Tickets currently sell for 500 dinars Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm TUESDAY, DECEMBER 18 FREE COPY WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 12 Romed Hopfgartner, saxophone starts at 8 pm. Floor tickets cost 2,300 dinars (19 euros) and tickets in (4 euros) and will cost 700 dinars (6 euros) at the door. Production: Metropolis Music TUESDAY DECEMBER 18 Concert Hall, 8pm the VIP area cost 2,700 (23 euros). Admission: 900, 1200 dinars • Goran Karan, Kombank Dvorana, Cycle: Artist & Editor visit Aleksandar Serdar, piano Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Decanska 14, 8pm • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13 Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Limbo Lighting, Grad Cultural Nemanjina 4, 11pm Andrija Mamutovic, piano as a guest Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm • We are the 90s, Freestyler Winter Concert Hall, 8pm Programme: A. Scarlatti, L. von Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Beethoven, Editor in Chief: Marija Ristic • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, Stage, Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm Young@Opera Nemanjina 4, 11pm „La Serva Padrona“, Giovanni Paisiello J.S. Bach, J. Brahms, F. Schubert Production: Music Centre BIRN editorial team: • RnB Wednesday, Hype, WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 19 Production: Kolarac & Operosa Admission: 500 dinars Marcus Tanner Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm Admission: 300 dinars belgradeinsighteditor@birn. • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, eu.com THURSDAY DECEMBER 13 Nemanjina 4, 11pm Sales & Marketing: Marija • RnB Wednesday, Hype, • Marko Louis, Dom Omladine, Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm Petrovic Makedonska 22, 8pm +381 11 4030 302 • Frano Lasic & Dalmatisnak THURSDAY DECEMBER 20 [email protected] klapa Smrika, Dom Omladine, Marko Louis in Makedosnak 22, 8pm • Divlje svinje, Elektropionir, Concert at Dom Omladine Jorgovani at SubBeerni Centar Subscription & Distribution: • Born from Pain + Few Reason Cetinjska 15, 9pm Vatra at Drugstore French Nouvelle Vague Back in Town Goran Knezevic Why, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, • Svemirko (CRO) i Kezz, Drugstore Popular singer and composer Marko “Bohemian punk” band Jorgovani Nikola Vranjkovic +381 63 562 265 9pm Club, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Louis has added a second concert on return to play a concert in Belgrade, this The single most popular rap/RnB club No matter how often this neo-Bossa- Hosts Year-End Concert [email protected] • Yugo.soirée, Grad Cultural 11pm December 16, after the one planned time at SubBeerni Centar, with Cepeni night in Belgrade, Vatra, is coming back nova attraction from France plays in Printing: POLITIKA stamparija Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, • B I K I N I bday PARTY, Club 2044, on December 13 sold out in a matter of Cunci and Goatmare & Hellspades as to Drugstore (Bulevar Despota Stefana Belgrade, their concerts are always The great Nikola Vranjkovic, best 7pm Usce bb, 11pm days. Louis will be promoting his new special guests. Judging from last year’s 115) on December 8. This time, the crew (nearly) sold out. This time, Nouvelle known as the frontman of the legend- d.o.o. • RNB Thursday's Delight, • RNB Thursday's Delight, album, Euridika, which came out in concert, this should be a fun evening behind this popular series of parties Vague is playing at Hangar in the Port ary band Block Out, is having his tradi- ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm October for Lampshade media, and, of of cheerful debauchery so make sure is bringing DJ $meng (F.A.M.), Фake of Belgrade (Zorza Klemansoa 39) on tional end-of-year concert on Decem- Insight • Malinada, Ludost Bar, • Malinada, Ludost Bar, course, playing some old favorites too. to check in on December 14 around Casual, byp_ and 50Grass playing the December 9, starting at 8.30 pm. Pre- ber 13 at the Kombank Hall (Decanska COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm The concert at Dom Omladine (Make- 9pm. Presale tickets cost 500 dinars (4 Big Room. Nina Davis from Zagreb will sale tickets cost 1,500 dinars (13 euros) 14), starting at 8 pm. Tickets range from Circulation: 2,000 • IDJ TV Party, Freestyler Winter • IDJ TV Party, Freestyler Winter donska 22) will start at 9 pm and tickets euros). The price at the door will be 700 join Rasheed and Inspektor in the small and will be 1,800 dinars (15 euros) at 1,200 dinars (1 euros) to 1,500 dinars (13 Stage, Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm Stage, Karadjordjeva 2-4, 11pm are available for 900 dinars (8.5 euros). dinars (6 euros). club. Tickets cost 400 dinars (3 euros). the door. euros), depending on the seating. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 7 - Thursday, December 20, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

• Jasmina Jankovic (piano), Ilija M. • Balkan Spy (Kovacevic), National SATURDAY DECEMBER 8 FRIDAY DECEMBER 14 Opera, Ballet and Classical Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 5, 6pm 8.30pm • Exhibition: Miroslav’s Gospel • Book promotion: Izguzvane FRIDAY DECEMBER 7 • Opera: Sedra (Rasinski), Ilija M. (Miroslavljevo Jevandjelje), misli, Branko Golubovic, Dom Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Omladine 22, 1pm • Belgrade Philharmonic 5, 8pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 15 National Museum of Serbia, Trg • Psychoanalytic Society of Orchestra, Gabriel Feltz • Ballet: Opus – Christos Republike 1a, 10am Serbia, Belgrade City Library, Knez (conductor), Barnabas Papadopoulos Company, • Bollywood (Pelevic), National • 10th International Queer Film Mihailova 56, 5pm Kelemen (violin), Ilija M. Kolarac Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Festival “Merlinka”, Dom • Exhibition: About Architecture, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Milana 50, 9pm 8.30pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 4.30pm Gallery of Science and Technology, • The Woman from Sarajevo • DSF + DKSG, Studentski Grad Djure Jaksica 2, 5pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 8 , TUESDAY DECEMBER 18 (Andric), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana • Exhibition: Traditional – Modern Studenstki Kulturni Centar, Kralja Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Djindjica 179, 8pm • Opera: Othello (Verdi), National • Aleksandar Serdar (piano), Ilija • Waves of Orient 2018, Studentski Milana 48, 7pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar • Exhibition: Uberlaben in 7pm trg 5, 8pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 16 Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm Sarajewo, Parobrod Gallery, • Jelena Jovic & Jazz Junction, Ilija • Ballet: The Nutcracker • Exhibition: Gadget, Zoran Kapetan Misina 6a, 7pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in • The Bereaved Family (Nusic), Todorovic, Magacin, Kraljevica • Book Promotion: ANJA + trg 5, 8pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm National Theatre in Belgrade, Marka 4-8, 8pm GRU = MIO, Krokodil Center Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Cirkusfera - School of for Contemporary Literature, SUNDAY DECEMBER 9 THURSDAY DECEMBER 20 , Magacin, Karadjordjeva 43, 7pm • The Marriage (Gogol), National Contemporary Circus Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 8pm • Jelena Poprzan (violin), • Ballet: The Nutcracker Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Traditional Moroccan Tea SATURDAY DECEMBER 15 Studentski Grad Cultural Center, (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in 8.30pm Workshop, Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Othello (Shakespeare), Yugoslav Brace Krsmanovica 4, 5pm • Exhibition: Orientation in 100 • Workshop for piano music, Ilija Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Revolutions, Sinisa Ilic, Ilija M. M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • 8pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 9 Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg trg 5, 11am Theatre 5, 5pm • Raspevani dzivdzani, Ilija M. th MONDAY DECEMBER 17 • 10 International Queer Film Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg FRIDAY DECEMBER 7 Festival “Merlinka”, Dom SUNDAY DECEMBER 16 5, 6pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 4.30pm • The Patriots (Sterija), National • Richard The Third • Waves of Orient 2018, Studentski • Exhibition: Pigmalion, Ivana WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 12 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, (Shakespeare), National Theatre in Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zivic, NLB gallery, Bulevar Mihajla 7.30pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Zorana Djindjica 179 Pupina 165v, 4pm • Concert of Chamber Music – • The Nineties (Milenkovic), Mihovil Logar and Dragutin SATURDAY DECEMBER 8 MONDAY DECEMBER 10 MONDAY DECEMBER 17 Gostuski, Serbian Academy of National Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova • Uncle Vanya (Chekhov), Yugoslav • Symposium: Inequality in Serbia, • Exhibition: The Hardest Thing 35, 6pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Serbian Academy of Sciences and is to be Loved, Studentski Grad • Master Art academy, Ilija M. 8pm TUESDAY DECEMBER 18 Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg • Bela Bartok and Serbian Music, Djindjica 179, 1pm 5, 6pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 9 • Balkan Spy (Kovacevic), National Serbian Academy of Sciences and • Book promotion: Idea of Naples • Nenad Vasalic Trio, Ilija M. Kolarac Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm (Ideja Napulja), Mario Liguori, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Studentski Grad Cultural Center, • The Minister’s Wife (Nusic), 8.30pm • Exhibition: Viva La Vida, Selma National Theatre in Belgrade, Selman, November Gallery, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm • The Glass Neck (Srbljanovic), THURSDAY DECEMBER 13 Francuska 3, 7.30pm Kursulina 22, 7pm • Cycle: The Serbian People and • The Glass Neck (Srbljanovic), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Famous (What) For?, Studentski Yugoslav Country 1918 – 2018, Ilija • Jovana Stosic (violin), Vanja Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Scepanovic (piano), Serbian Milana 50, 8pm Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm trg 5, 6pm Academy of Sciences and Arts, • Marx in Soho (Zin), Yugoslav THURSDAY DECEMBER 20 • Exhibition: Nature, Magacin, • Contemporary Jewelry Sales Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 7pm Exhibition, Grad Cultural Center, • Piano Quintet Altro Senso, Festive Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm 8.30pm • The Sexual Neurosis of our • Discussion on Anthology Edition Hall of the Assembly of the City, “The First World War in Serbia”, , National Dragoslava Jovanovica 2, 8pm MONDAY DECEMBER 10 Parents (Barfuss) Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, TUESDAY DECEMBER 18 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Studentski trg 5, 6pm FRIDAY DECEMBER 14 • The Lady of the Camelias, (Fils), 8.30pm • Book Promotion: The Hardest National Theatre in Belgrade, • A profitable Position (Ostrovsky), TUESDAY DECEMBER 11 Thing is to be Loved, Studentski • Belgrade Philharmonic Francuska 3, 7.30pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Orchestra, Cristian Mandeal • Coffee White (Popovic), National Milana 50, 8pm • Serbian Institute in Budapest, Zorana Djindjica 179, 1pm (conductor), David Fray (piano), Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Serbian Academy of Sciences and • Culture – Basic of State and Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, 8.30pm Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am National Identity, Serbian Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Why Does Herr R. Run Amok? • Exhibition: Nature, Magacin, Academy of Sciences and Arts, (Fassbinder), Yugoslav Drama Events and Exhibitions Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 7pm Knez Mihailova 35, 1pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 15 Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Cycle: Elena Ferante, Studentski • Book Promotion, Milos Knezevic, • Marx in Soho (Zin), Yugoslav Drama FRIDAY DECEMBER 7 Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Studentski Grad Cultural Center, • Opera: Traviata (Verdi), Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8.30pm Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Metropolitan Opera Live • Exhibition: Miroslav’s Gospel • Music Festivals and Cultural • Exhibition: Minijatura 3, ULUPUDUS Broadcasting, Cineplexx Usce Gallery, Uzun Mirkova 12, 7pm TUESDAY DECEMBER 11 (Miroslavljevo Jevandjelje), Diplomacy of Serbia, Ilija M. Kolarac Shoping Center, Bulevar Mihajla Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • Cycle: Rastko Petrovic, 120th Pupina 4, 6.45pm • Cyrano (Rostand), National Theatre National Museum of Serbia, Trg anniversary of birth, Ilija M. Kolarac • Nexus, multimedia project, Ilija in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Republike 1a, 10am WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 12 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • Uncle Vanya (Chekhov), Yugoslav • Exhibition: About Architecture, trg 5, 8pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Gallery of Science and Technology, • Alternative Film/Video 2018, WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 19 • Opera: Carmen (Bizet), National 8pm Djure Jaksica 2, 10am Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 3pm • Great Illusion, Cultural Institute of • Cosmopolitism – From Kant 7pm WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 12 • Psychology of Sport, Dom France in Belgrade, Knez Mihailova to Ecological Interpretations, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm 31, 6pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 16 • Electra (Kis), National Theatre in Institute for Philosophy and Social • Christian Basis of Universal Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Theory, Kraljice Natalije 45/IV, 10am Declaration on Hunan Rights, Ilija THURSDAY DECEMBER 20 • Students of the Faculty of Music, • Book Presentation: Violin M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, THURSDAY DECEMBER 13 Constellation (Sazvezdje violina), trg 5, 7.30pm • Exhibition: Moving Borders, Studentski trg 5, 11am Museum of Applied Arts, Vuka Vesna Aleksic, Zmaj Library, Zmaj • Romany Dances and Music, Ilija • The Liar and Archiliar (Sterija), THURSDAY DECEMBER 13 Karadzica 18, 7pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski National Theatre in Belgrade, Jovina 1/I, 11am • Book Promotion: David Foster trg 5, 6pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm • 10th International Queer Film • Exhibition: Milan Blanusa, Wallace, Studentski Grad Cultural Festival “Merlinka”, Dom Goethe-Institute Belgrade, Knez Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica MONDAY DECEMBER 17 FRIDAY DECEMBER 14 Omladine, Makedonska 22, 4.30pm Mihailova 50, 7.30pm 179, 7pm • Exhibition: Classic and Symbolic, • What can be Learned from • Litetary Evening: Brussels Could • Milica Zidaric (piano), Serbian Chemical Accidents, Ilija M. Be Easily walked, Nenad Saponja, • Mary Stuart (Schiller), National Museum of Applied Arts, Vuka Academy of Sciences and Arts, Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm 7.30pm Karadzica 18, 6pm 5, 6pm Studentski trg 5, 7.39pm

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