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Parisian Bistros

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Parisian Bistros Fold 2 Historic locations CHARTIER Founded as a soup kitchen in 1896, Chartier hasn’t strayed far from its original mission to provide simple and satisfying food, with dishes like snails, steak cuts and veal stew making up the reasonably priced menu. The Chez Paul has been a local setting is grander – a Belle Époque favourite since the 1940s dining room beneath a vast, light-strung ceiling (restaurant- MINI GUIDE chartier.com; 7 Rue du Faubourg Despite humble origins, Chartier’s Montmartre; mains from £7). décor is pure Parisian grandeur LE TRUMILOU CHEZ PAUL PARISIAN This Parisian institution has This long-standing local haunt in clocked up more than a hundred the Bastille district appears little years of custom in the same spot changed since Monsieur and BISTROS overlooking the Seine near Madame Paul opened their bistro Notre Dame. The menu is as here in the 1940s. With its For a delicious slice of traditional French authentic as a Parisian bistro pavement tables, tiled floors and gets, and changes depending on cosy interior cluttered with old cooking, it’s hard to beat a bistro. The what’s on offer at market, but knick-knacks and photos, it’s still boulevards and backstreets of Paris offer a canard aux pruneaux (duck with the archetypal bistro, and offers prunes) and ris de veau classic dishes such as steak fantastic selection – from veteran joints to grand-mère (veal sweetbreads) tartare (the house speciality) and new arrivals reinventing the classics. are specialities (letrumilou.fr; 84 beef stew. Be sure to book ahead Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville; closed (chezpaul.com; 13 Rue de mid-Aug; mains from £11). Charonne; mains from £12). Traditional dishes Contemporary cuisine Fold 1 LE ROI DU POT AU FEU JADIS Resolutely traditional down to its Jadis is a leading example red gingham tablecloths, the big of Paris’s ‘neo-bistro’ trend, draw of the ‘King of Hotpots’ is combining the convivial feel the pot au feu, a stockpot of beef, of a traditional bistro with top root vegetables and herbs, with restaurant-style dining. Rising the stock served as starter and the star Guillaume Delage creates meat and vegetables as main daring dishes such as spider crab course. It’s hearty, no-fuss with buckwheat blinis and an nourishment, perfect for the start unforgettable chocolate soufflé of a night out (00 33 1 47 42 37 (bistrot-jadis.com; 208 Rue de la 10; 34 Rue Vignon; closed Sun & Enjoy beef cooked in wine for 10 Croix Nivert; closed Sat & Sun, Le Buisson Ardent offers an Aug; pot au feu £14). hours at Bistroy les Papilles & mid-Aug; mains from £14). inventive take on bistro classics BISTROY LES PAPILLES LE HIDE LE BUISSON ARDENT LE COMPTOIR A beautiful bistro and deli with This tiny bistro round the corner Housed in a former coaching inn A bright, Art Deco space in the elegantly dressed tables and walls from the Arc de Triomphe has won in the Latin Quarter whose walls Relais Saint-Germain hotel, this lined with wine and local produce, rave reviews for its traditional are lined with pretty old murals gourmet bistro is going down a Bistroy les Papilles offers a quality French cuisine – cooked up by a of pastoral scenes, this local storm with the gastronomes of of food that ensures its narrow Japanese chef. Inside a bright, favourite serves up creative, Paris. The handiwork of renowned interior is packed out every night. simple space, Hide Kobayashi contemporary variations on chef Yves Camdeborde, it offers Its market-led menu is different serves up dishes such as côte de traditional bistro food. Tasty innovative updates on bistro every day, and is complemented veau (veal chop), épaule d’agneau options include roast zander in classics – suckling pig with lentils, by an exceptional wine list from (shoulder of lamb) and monkfish seaweed butter with a young for example – with an emphasis its extensive wine cellars. Try its in lemon butter, as well as a leek and lemongrass fondue on seasonal produce (hotel- marmite du marché, or ‘pot of the scrumptious selection of classic (lebuissonardent.fr; 25 Rue paris-relais-saint-germain.com; market’ (lespapillesparis.fr; 30 desserts (lehide.fr; 10 Rue du Jussieu; closed Sun dinner & 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon; Rue Gay Lussac; closed Sun, Mon Général Lanrezac; closed Sat mid-Aug; mains from £18). three-course menus from £45). & mid-Jul–mid-Aug; four-course lunchtime, Sun, mid-May & TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS Tear out page here then fold along dotted lines dotted along fold then here page out Tear menus £26). mid-Aug; mains from £15). September 2012 Lonely Planet Traveller 119 MINI GUIDE Parisian bistros Eating Where to stay Paris essentials The know-how TRANSPORT TOP TIP Eurostar runs from London to TEVE Paris Gare du Nord (from £70 By law, French restaurants S AND return; eurostar.com). Air France, must include the 15 per cent BA, easyJet, Flybe and Jet2 fly to service charge on the bill. There’s no obligation to tip ILLIAMS Paris Charles de Gaulle from UK W cities including Belfast, Edinburgh beyond this (many don’t), but leaving a few coins shows ICOLA and Manchester (from £80; N , easyjet.com). The quickest way appreciation: rounding up by ITTS P to get around Paris is the Metro. BISTRO MENU DECODER €1–€2 is common, and 5 per cent is truly generous. HRIS Single tickets and bundles of ten Bœuf bourgignon C Z, Flamboyant style abounds at the are available, as are Carte Beef stewed in red wine. EVE N Hôtel du Petit Moulin E Mobilis, which grant unlimited Blanquette de veau FURTHER READING L travel between certain zones, Veal stew with a creamy sauce. Lonely Planet’s Paris (£12.99) and Paris Visite passes, which Hôtel du Petit Moulin in the Bouillon is a comprehensive guide to atherine also include discounts at some Marais was previously the site of Broth. the city, while Pocket Paris C sights (bundle of ten tickets £10; the oldest bakery in Paris, and from Coq au vin (£7.99) and Discover Paris one-day Carte Mobilis, zones bears its beautiful façade. Inside, Chicken braised in red wine. (£14.99) offer a good 1–2, £5; three-day Paris Visite 17 themed rooms run riot with Foie gras de canard overview of its highlights. ticket, zones 1–3, £17; ratp.fr). rich fabrics and colourful murals Duck liver paté. Find guides, reviews and (hoteldupetitmoulin.com; 29–31 CONTRIBUTIONS Pot au feu musings on eating out at the WHERE TO STAY Rue de Poitou; from £170). Meat and vegetable hotpot. Paris By Mouth blog WITH , Hôtel Langlois is a slice of Relais Christine is a luxury Rillettes (parisbymouth.com). For Belle Époque Paris. Built in 1870, hotel in a 17th-century mansion Shredded, potted meat or fish. rath a taste of bistro cooking at G C its richly decorated rooms are built on the ruins of a medieval Riz au lait à l’ancienne home, try French Bistro: M full of historic touches such as abbey. Many of its elegant rooms Old-fashioned rice pudding. Seasonal Recipes (£19.95; OPHIE sandstone fireplaces and overlook a verdant garden, while Tartare de bœuf S Flammarion), a beautifully by authentic objets d’art (hotel- breakfast is served in a 13th- Steak tartare. illustrated collection of SUPERSTOCK REDDY/ALAMY, SIMON APPETIT/ALAMY, BON PHOTOGRAPHS: . langlois.com; 63 Rue Saint- century cellar (relais-christine. Tarte tatin classics by a top bistro chef. OMPILED allon F Lazare; from £115). com; 3 Rue Christine; from £295). Caramelised apple tart. C 120 Lonely Planet Traveller September 2012.
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